(Part 2) Best fire safety products according to redditors

Dude, seriously. Buy a new one. They're stupid cheap and easy to install. It'll take you a grand total of like 10 minutes to order a new one, pick up the box from your front porch, and set it up.

A lot of people don't think about this and it's important so I am making this post.

Everyone on this sub, and everyone in general, should have a fire extinguisher at home.

If you live in a condo or apartment, a single fire extinguisher will suffice. If in a home, a fire extinguisher for every floor and one for the garage.

A 4-5 lb fire extinguisher is enough for whatever home use you might need without getting the fire department involved. Or it could be used to delay the fire enough for the fire department to arrive and save your home or the building.

I also have a 2.5 lb fire extinguisher next to my battlestation. Just in case, and it makes me feel good. If I ever have an electrical fire or my PSU for decides to blow up, I'll be ready for it.

Avoid plastic handles. They just aren't as durable. At some point before the end of the projected lifetime of the extinguisher I recommend to just go ahead and use it for practice. Then either refill or just get a new one.

I would recommend against modifying a fire alarm. You can buy battery-backed smoke alarms already for $20 or less, with lots of other features including networking. https://www.amazon.com/BRK-7010B-Hardwire-Photoelectric-Battery/dp/B000H3AGZO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493576850&sr=8-5&keywords=battery+backed+fire+alarm

If you modify a smoke alarm and it fails in a fire you will likely be held civilly liable, i.e. insurance will reject claims, and it's possible that criminal charges may apply.

http://www.firealarmsonline.com/2013/06/IllegaltoTamperwithFireAlarms.html

Short answer, no, don't modify your alarm, just buy one that has the features you want. If I knew how to do what you are attempting, I would not help you because doing so would attach liability and I have zero interest in that happening.

Those will work fine, but you can also find water filled extinguishers at surplus sales and surplus stores. There are some that you pressurize with air, and those really old ones that you turn upside down to make the water flow. This style is what I'm referring to: https://www.amazon.com/Amerex-Gallon-Water-Class-Extinguisher/dp/B00F5CJEZU They dispense a lot more water in a faster time period than a sprayer. There are also backpack style manual fire pumps called Indian tanks (they were made by the Indian Company). Some of the surplus places are currently selling a Swiss Military version of them. Again, the stream is much better and more water is deployed faster. No affiliation with this auction, but here is the Swiss Version. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1930s-military-Swiss-Army-Fire-Pump-Water-portable-Car-Wash-Truck-Wash-Atc-Atv-/301718090321

I keep at least 100 feet of hose on each hose bib (no chance of them freezing here) and 200 feet on a couple of them. That gives me enough hose line hooked up to go all the way around the house, or to drag a hose inside if needed.

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-SC9120B-Hardwired-Monoxide/dp/B00O8MVW12/

You should also consider Leeo

I have it velcroed to the back of my seat.

I keep it at about chest height when sitting. CO is slightly lighter than air, but with a fan going in the car its just going to be moving with the rest of the air.

Just don't keep it really up high or really down low. Keep it where your breathable air is going to be, not tucked away in a bag or something.

I'm waiting for these to get better and cheaper and then I'll always have one on my keychain. People die every year from CO. Its scary shit. Just this past winter in my home town like 7 or 8 kids died at a hotel pool party at an indoor pool. The NG pool heater malfunctioned and released a bunch of CO into the room. Kids died in the pool.

You're welcome! I love what I do. It's just volunteer, but I've been doing it across two states for 12 years now. I love it.

And to be honest - I kind of always liked those little "nothing" calls where we go visit a family that's worried, or clearly new at this, and help them understand alarms, maybe even some CO checks, etc.

Also, buy a fire extinguisher. You know you need one. ;) :P

$20 doesnt sounds so bad


https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-AUTO5-Auto-Extinguisher/dp/B000P0DPGQ/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_1/135-6064589-1909121?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000P0DPGQ&pd_rd_r=a3dbbafc-2e6d-11e9-9785-9966c44d7ef0&pd_rd_w=3yg7f&pd_rd_wg=JtiYp&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=BYSE0WTE6JJ61BM2QT2K&psc=1&refRID=BYSE0WTE6JJ61BM2QT2K

Smoke in a can? Any hardware store should have some. https://www.amazon.com/UTC-Security-SM200-Smoke-Canned/dp/B0041X4GRK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=smoke+in+a+can&qid=1574879997&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQUkNFMU5QMjRKQ1ImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1NTAzNTVKMjVQTk1BSkdWOE4mZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDE5MzYyOTNDU1oxVlZROTdXNTgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

You can buy smoke in a can .
Arduino engineers hate him/her due to this one small trick......

Over the years abc extinguishers have been more common for sure. A lot of people don't use their fire extinguishers so they've likely had them for years. In my kitchen in my old house my extinguisher was only a class A and it was probably 11 or 12 years old.

I don't know if you can even buy a class A extinguisher anymore.. found one

An HOA can require anything from you. You are going to have to talk to them. Do they really mean hard wired? I would assume (again, check with them) they mean interconnected. You can get interconnected smoke alarms for fairly cheep, even though you already purchased new units. Ask them if the below product will satisfy their request.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5S37K/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=yJfrp&pf_rd_r=6XDAZ3AJ6EYTJCSFHKXW&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00PC5S37K&pd_rd_w=bgwFr&pf_rd_i=interconnected+smoke+alarm&pd_rd_r=b0a5ec42-c4c2-4e94-9794-1930ddec2644&ie=UTF8&qid=1540924242&sr=1

This is the polar opposite of SMD, but I thought I'd share my solution...

While I love DIY, smoke detectors are important. I wanted to interface with my home system but without compromising the integrity of the system.

Get a 120v first alert.
First Alert SA521CN Wireless Interconnected Hardwired Photoelectric Smoke Alarm with Battery Backup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVO9D4

Get the smart relay interconnect.
BRK RM4 Smart Relay for First Alert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039PF21U
This includes schematic for wiring to the detector and the color codes for NO/NC relay connection.

~~Get an optocoupler or isolation relay. Mains Voltage! The output of the RM4 is 120V.
Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigger Input. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S
The RM4 output powers the relay. The screw terminals connect to the 8266.~~

Get a Esp8266; Flash tasmota firmware. Configure for switch and mqtt. Wire it up.
First Alert is now part of the matrix.

Quick update: Did not need the second relay/optocoupler. The BRK RM4 is an isolated relay. Their docs did not make that perfectly clear so I assumed worst case w/o testing it.

Replace it with this.

You need a heat detector rather than a smoke detector.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000Q6LXW2/

Carbon monoxide detector is an interesting choice. We know there will be exhaust fumes, it's a garage. I wonder if it might alert too frequently and become annoying.

If I was going to put a Carbon Monoxide detector in a garage I'd want it to be one with a digital readout so that I can see the levels.

I fly with this.

I did quite a bit of research looking for the same thing. In the end I decided it was important to keep this safety system separate, using reliable names such as First Alert -- you can interconnect them via. existing home wiring or wireless ... just buy the same brand. I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVO9D4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

But I want the benefits of notifications when smoke alarm trigger (lights turn on, text messages, etc) so I installed this zwave device beside one of them that listens for the sound of an alarm. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Z8NM8N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

So far, no false alarms, but testing any one of the smoke detectors will reliably trigger this zwave device. Plus, it costs far less than Nest Protect or even Roost, and doesn't rely on a third party cloud.

http://amazon.com/Kidde-466204-Fire-Extinguisher-Rated/dp/B0017TE8BK

This is currently a great price for an abc fire extinguisher, according to camel camel camel. http://camelcamelcamel.com/Kidde-466204-Fire-Extinguisher-Rated/product/B0017TE8BK

I have never set my shop on fire, but I have burnt myself, and cut myself, and abraded myself, but nothing too bad. I try to work intentionally slow and deliberate. I like my fingers. In my grandfather's shop though, everything was a mess, and there was a shotshell lodged near a grinder, and when he was grinding with me there, that went off... scared the hell out of us.

Fluffy above has it right: wear protective equipment: goggles and ears are a must power tools.

As far as a first aid kit goes, I keep in my shop bandages and stuff for compressing, staunching blood flow, with a real first aid kit in the kitchen 30 seconds away.

That's great!

But, the rest of us aren't so confident about the Anet A8 seeing how there are multiple examples of them catching fire.

#1 2017

#2 2017

#3 2017

#4 2018

That's me taking 5 minutes. Actually I spent more time writing this than researching this. An exhaustive search would probably yield more and these are just the ones people are telling us about.

Maybe they can be made safe, but that needs to happen in the factory, not after the fact by the consumer who probably isn't an electrical engineer. You're not an electrical engineer are you?

Disclaimer: I'm not an expert. Take my advice at your own risk.

I don't know what's causing these fires. But, I've heard mention of mainboards and PSU's. You should probably take the task of heating off the mainboard and put it onto external mosfets for the hotend and the hotbed. You might also want to replace the factory power supply (PSU) with something more robust. As long as the A8 is 12 volts I'd probably suggest an ATX power supply conversion if you're handy with a soldering iron and feel confident you can do it. ATX power supplies come with a number of built-in safety features. Here's a wiki on choosing a PSU.

You might also want to add some basic fire suppression to your print area. This maybe would stop a fire, but it's not going to stop an electrical short creating heat and therefore acting as an ignition source. It might give you more time to react in the case that a fire does start.

Edit: I couldn't find the rating on the rangehood fire extinguisher so, this ball extinguisher that is ABC rated might be a better option if you can figure out how to suspend it above your printer which shouldn't be too hard as it comes with a metal stand.

I would definitely add a fire extinguisher nearby where you print.

Then add a fire alarm above your printer and in the adjacent room.

This is not just advice for you, but it's advice for anyone. I've done all three of the above suggestions. I've add the stove rangehood fire extinguisher. I've wall mounted a fire extinguisher in the adjacent room. I've also add two fire alarms, one above my printer and another in the adjacent room.

Be safe my friend and heed the warnings these multiple fires are broadcasting.

https://www.amazon.com/BRK-Brands-HD6135FB-Hardwire-Battery/dp/B000Q6LXW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541321139&sr=8-3&keywords=Heat+Detectors&dpID=41MPAs%252Bv5rL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

get a heat detector, not a smoke detector.

First, no fire alarm should be located near the stove, but if it is, it should be a photo-electric alarm, NOT an ionization alarm. Most people have ionization alarms, and I'd bet yours is too. So step one, IMO, would be to replace the ionization alarm near your stove with a photoelectric alarm, like this one.

If you're lucky, the landlord can just twist off the old one, unplug it from the wire it's connected to, and replace it with a new photoelectric alarm. I replaced all of my hard wired alarms and it was a very easy job if you get the same brand.

If that isn't possible, I'd probably cover it, like others have said, but if you do that you still need decent fire alarms. And make sure you have at least one photoelectric alarm in your apartment. You're taking a risk if you don't. Photoelectric alarms are better for the fires that tend to kill people. Read this for more information. I bought my daughter a photoelectric alarm for her apartment, so now she has both types. Here's one for 9 bucks. It could save your life. Put it in a central location away from the stove so you've got coverage in case you get fed up and end up taking a baseball bat to the one near your stove.

If you already have wired smoke detectors that are interconnected, you could use a kidde relay wired to a door sensor or dry contact sensor.

Kidde SM120X Interconnect... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The guide I followed to set it up: https://community.smartthings.com/t/integrating-kidde-smoke-co-sensors-into-smartthings-properly/53641

Depending upon proximity, and a dozen other factors, something like this might work: Wireless Audio Detector

I have one for my HomeSeer system, and it seems to be effective in detecting the sound of fire alarms. My house has several wired alarms that have no automation capabilities. Using this enables me to receive alerts when away from home.

You would need to have a system compatible with Z-Wave devices to use (HomeSeer, SmartThings, Vera, etc)

You would need permission of the neighbors to put one in their home, but it would certainly be to their advantage to allow you to do so. Also, it would need to be within Z-Wave range (330 ft, 100 meters)

I had the exact same issue, I lost about $200 worth of stuff. After searching for a project to make, I found these and just took the easy way out.
I bought 3: freezer, refrigerator, sump pump.

According to the konnected website you need something like this to make it work

Kidde SM120X Interconnect Accessories Smoke Relay Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_-G.LDbNH8PP6K

No problem, looks like you need to just replace it, since it's the harness type just replace the device and leave the wiring, see if you can silicone the holes were the wiring is coming in since it appears to be powered by 120, here is one that looks to be the same connection type http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O8MVW12/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449790458&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=brk+first+alert+9120&dpPl=1&dpID=41OrDmD736L&ref=plSrch Looks to be a house smoke and not connected to a separate panel somewhere , hope this helps

You won't be able to use the same wiring as the work in entirely different ways - the ones you have are monitored by a control panel (24V DC) of some sort, a residential version is entirely independent but can trigger others on an independent high voltage (120V AC) wiring loop through the way it is wired.

I would get something like this to test it. Be sure to get one (like recommended) that doesn't leave a residue - some of the 'most effective' canned smokes available can leave a residue inside the detector and this can cause problems in the long run. It only takes a very small amount (1-second spray) and then wait for it to process and go into alarm state. Also get a can of compressed air to clear the detector out after the test.

If the one is going off outside of your shower then it may be the wrong type (ionization) or may just be getting old and falling outside of its sensitivity range. The one in your photo is photoelectric which is the best choice for this area. Can you show a picture of the box they are connected to?

Well, there is of course the Nest Protect, which is wifi-based. No web interface, and requires their app to set up. It can be configured out of the box to email you alerts, and the alert settings are configurable (email vs text vs app notification, and for which alerts/conditions).

There is also the First Alert Smoke/CO Combo, which is Z-Wave based. Again, no web interface. You would rely on your hub for configuring your notifications.

> Speaking as an electrician

Thanks very much! That is good to hear coming from a professional. I was proud of my little workaround hack, but I have never read about it anywhere else so I wondered if I was missing something important... but it really does work (I've used it during a couple of outages now). One useful thing to do is to use a little label maker to label the relevant outlets inside the house with "GENERATOR", just to make clear that they aren't usually going to be working. It's also good to make sure that whatever extension cords you get for coming from the generator to the house inlets has a round end for where it's going into the inlet. Some extension cords have the additional tab sticking up which makes it hard or impossible to fit into the inlet socket. Kind of hard to describe, but you'd know exactly what I mean if you see the inlet. Unfortunately the ones I got don't seem to be available any more on Amazon, the product page has gone away, but they looked a lot like these:

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco-150BBI-RV-Charger-125-Volt/dp/B000NV0V8C/

And the extension cords for generator to inlet are these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IAXSW/

Notice the female end of the extension cord is round, so it'll fit inside the inlet socket. I think I have the 100 foot and another 50 foot of the 10 ga, for getting from the generator on the rear deck to the two different inlets on the house. The garage one is a bit further away, toward the front of the house, so I need the 100' for that. Usually I'd try not to run so long, but when running the generator in an emergency I'd much prefer for it to be hidden in the rear of the house, not visible to the road. Being 10 ga gives me a bit more room to play with 100' length without losing too much power to the cord.

Other than those, it's a pretty standard job that anybody who's a little bit handy can do - you might also need a 1 7/8" hole saw for the inlet, assuming you have wood walls (we have cedar siding). I used something like 10 or 12 ga house wiring between the wall - I think it might be 10 ga since I remember hemming and hawing on which to use, I believe I went heavier just to be on the safe side. It's a bit intimidating for a non-professional to work with wiring stuff up, but since it's not connected to the actual house wiring, that takes some of the fear out. Just have to make sure you get all the right wires in the right places (not too difficult) and tighten everything up. Also a little bit stressful hacking holes in your exterior house wall, but once it's all sealed up again it's pretty cool knowing you can now get power inside without having to leave the window or door open.

I also have a Kryptonite Stronghold anchor in the back yard next to the deck, for chaining the generators up while they are running, so nobody can just pick them up and run off (a downside of having portable generators is that they are, well, portable):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LF903M/

I dug a hole and then filled it with high stress concrete, then left it to dry for a week or two, then drilled the holes for the bolts and installed the anchor. For chain, I used the strongest stuff I could find at Home Depot. The padlock likewise - just the most beefy, secure one I could find. On the generators themselves, I have installed the security addition to the handle:

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-63230-Z07-010AH-EU2000i-Generator-Deterrent/dp/B004DQY6B6/

This doesn't make it 100% secure, but it's better than just having the plastic handle which is easily broken. Security is a matter of layers - you don't depend on anything being 100%, but you hope that everything will serve to either deter or else slow the thieves down enough so that either they don't try, or else you will be alerted in time to stop them.

Finally, I have a couple of failed circuit alarms, which go off when power is lost:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077Q9NC6/

I figure these could be on the extension bar inside the house while the generator is in use, then if it goes off or is being stolen then I will get an alert when they unplug the extension cord. I am using one of these alarms in the garage now, for the chest freezer so I'll know if that circuit trips out for whatever reason (avoid thawed out freezer, never fun).

Anyway, hope that helps anyone else who might be thinking about a similar setup - the Honda EU2000i is a great little generator (I also have the Companion), and with a little forethought you can make it much easier to use in your house in emergencies. Oh, and one last thing - I also have a large folding plastic table, which can be used to put over the generator if it's raining outside when you need to use it. Obviously the generator can't be too near the house, because of risk of carbon monoxide, so being outside puts the generator at risk of exposure to the elements. One of those folding tables, you can get from any department store, is useful for putting the generator under something. If the rain is especially heavy, I can put an additional tarp over the table, which can also cover two sides, and a couple of cinder blocks makes it ok in the wind.

Incidentally, this is a good battery powered CO detector, great for emergencies if you need to run a Buddy heater inside the house, or make sure the generator exhaust isn't blowing inside:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6V5CI/

Here is the one I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071Z8NM8N

I recently replaced my smoke detector and I wanted a hardwired Z-Wave one, but apparently that doesn't exist. So I got a dumb one with this detector-detector.

It was an ABC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F5CKJJU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

At my work (YRC Freight) we have a different truck each time. So instead of the more bulky home models I've been thinking about buying the portable keychain model. It costs more but the convenience might be worth it? What do you think? https://www.amazon.com/Pocket-CO-72-9021-Monoxide-Detector/dp/B001G0STBK

I replaced all the 15 year old builder-grade detectors in my house with Kiddee ones. The new ones came with 2 different adaptors, PLUS a bare-wire adapter. Luckily for me, one of the adapters works just fine. I loosened the existing baseplate, turned it to remove it, then put the new Kiddee plate on, turned it, tightened the screws, then plugged the new units into the existing house wire plug and it works fine.

I specifically bought that brand because it is also compatible with their wireless units, and I needed to add a few more for total coverage in my home.

Here's what I bought:

WIRED:

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-RF-SM-AC-Hardwire-Wireless-Interconnect/dp/B00PC5S5UK/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1RD8TFK1T36V58M4DZ0T

WIRELESS:

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-RF-SM-DC-Wireless-Interconnect-Battery-Operated/dp/B00PC5S37K/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1483835173&sr=8-16&keywords=kidde+smoke+detector

tl;dr: The new ones should be compatible.

In case anyone is still reading this-- a whole bunch of fire extinguishers have been recalled. [This one was recommended in the Reddit thread.] (https://www.amazon.com/Amerex-B500-Multi-Purpose-Fire-Extinguisher/dp/B00F5CKJJU) Another practical gift idea to file away. ETA: reviewers say it's cheaper to buy at a hardware store.

Good hanging automatic fire extinguishers are pricey, yes. I could see a number of situations where the cost of a fire extinguisher would negate the cost of fire damage. It's very situational, however.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CUJGML4

I used something like this Failed Circuit Alarm (New Style) by CSH Incorporated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077Q9NC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ALhBDbEJNK43W

It isn't a smart setup but you'll definitely hear when the freezer loses power

Whatever you do, I recommend photoelectric smoke detectors.

> In tests, ionization alarms will typically respond about 30 to 90 seconds faster to “fast-flame” fires than photoelectric smoke alarms. However, in smoldering fires ionization alarms respond an average of 15 to 50 minutes slower than photoelectric alarms. Several studies indicate that they will outright fail to activate up to 20-25% of the time. The vast majority of residential fire fatalities are due to smoke inhalation, not from the actual flames and almost two-thirds of fire fatalities occur at night while we sleep. [Source] (http://www.propertyevaluation.net/Photoelectric%20vs%20Ionization%20Smoke%20Alarms%20-%20Deadly%20Differences.html)

I bought First Alert Interconnected ones, but it would depend if you have a hardwired system or not.

I use these not sure if you can silence from one that isn't sounding but it's wireless interconnected.

Kidde 21026044 Wireless Interconnect Battery Operated Smoke Detector Alarm | |, Model RF-SM-DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5S37K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_bvxMDbB2933XS

Just do it yourself. Easy peasy and you save on paying someone to do the work. Includes mounting bracket.

Update. I'm trying this one. It claims it has an adaptor.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PC5TJJQ?vs=1

Nest Smoke Alarm may work for your needs. It is quite expensive though. https://www.amazon.com/Nest-Protect-Monoxide-Battery-Generation/dp/B00XV1RCRY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518308016&sr=8-1&keywords=nest+smoke&dpID=61jwqMuQ6VL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I literally just got a lecture from my wife about our fire extinguisher, she had someone come to her work and "educate" them. They service and sell extinguishers, he called them, "are you Kiddeing me"extinguishers.

After a quick search on Amazon I found this extinguisher which was easily what I paid for my crappy Kidde at the home store

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CUJGML4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6TllDbQGG902Z

Yes, I’ve looked at the Insteon smoke bridge. But as you say, the selection of compatible products isn’t great, and the features and compatibility are confusing and poorly documented.

For example, First Alert seems to offer only a single hardwired device with ONELINK, the First Alert SA521CN. But the SA521CN is only a smoke detector, it doesn’t detect CO. I could pair this with a unit which does do smoke+CO like the First Alert SCO501CN-3ST -- but that unit isn’t hardwired so it does me no good.

Then there are First Alert devices which are “interconnected” but lack ONELINK. For example the BRK SC9120B is a hardwired smoke+CO detector which is “interconnected” but lacks ONELINK. Maybe I could buy one of these and pair it with a SA521CA to give ONELINK capability? :(

Wow.... Don't anyone install sump pumps anymore?

I just replaced some of my smoke detectors with these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8MVW12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Drop in replacement for homes that have detectors built into the home and wired for electrical power.

>2.5 gallon 100psi class 2A water fire extinguisher

I think this may be what he has Fire Extinguisher

The most direct same-brand replacement for what you have is the First Alert 9120b -- it looks like a 12-pack is $110 with shipping.

Many locales now want you to have photoelectric or dual-detection photoelectric & ionization detectors, so you may wish to pick up one or more of that sort in the same brand for each floor.

I tried to figure that out when integrating my security system, but gave up and went with a Leeo instead. IFTTT triggers a virtual switch. As a bonus, I have it change colors to show whether the security system is active.

unicorn. and Nest isn't the answer for everyone.

You can use hardwired Kidde CO and Smoke detectors with relays wired to z-wave sensors (or esp866, arduinno, raspberrypi, etc)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDDVAW/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI/

the zwave sensor commonly used is:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/

> How are private ambulances comparable to private firefighters?

They both provide life-saving services and require expensive equipment to fulfill their job.

> Is that $150 hydrant up to American code?

What's the American code? And how much does it cost to bring $150 hydrant up to the "American code"? I'm pretty sure it's not $8850.

> A smart watch costs hundreds. And you have to charge it nearly every day. And you need to be connected to WiFi, or have a cell plan, which is extra. What if the power goes out?

A smartwatch does a lot more than what the smoke detector needs to do. A top-of-the-line smart smoke detector costs $100, that's petty change in comparison to the cost of a $200,000 home.

And if the power goes out, then it's a signal for the fire department to give you a call to check if everything is OK.

> The private firefighters.

Since Building B has property insurance, the private firefighters would show up to put out the fire. And depending on the circumstances, the property insurance of Building B may cover damages to neighboring buildings. Most property insurances have liability coverage for damages to third parties.

First setup heater mintemp in the firmware:

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?t=9763

For added protection I have a smoke detector in the cabinet connected to a relay which cuts the power if the detector goes off:

https://www.amazon.com/BRK-Brands-RM4-Smart-Relay/dp/B0039PF21U

$10 gets you a smoke alarm with a silence button.

Yay that your boss went for an Amazon GC :) It's great of you to share!

I really, really want a second gen Nest Protect smoke alarm. Kind of pricey but you get what you pay for in a good way! It's the best selling smoke alarm on Amazon. The company makes really good advanced products. They have dual sensors and a carbon monoxide alarm. No other alarm has that. They interconnect with each other wirelessly, and talk to give you information. They alert your phone and have different color alerts, and more. (Actually, I really want 3 of these, but 1 would be a good start. What we have are so old and crappy that I don't trust them at all. They are the $10 kind, and I should have replaced them at least 3 years ago.) I think this is what people need to be safe.

I also want this professional stainless steel mandoline badly, either one of the versions available, because it's built tougher than the others that have plastic parts. The reviews are so good, and I think it would outlast two of the others, and be easier to use, so it would be very worth it. A lot of the others don't cut as evenly or are difficult to hold and move the fruit or vegetable. I want this for making healthy homemade snacks.

I really need the Levo Deluxe holder for tablets so I can see and use my ereader and old tablet while I'm flat on my back. I'm planning ahead and trying to get the items that will help during recovery from surgery and I won't be able to prop up my head or use the laptop or TV. It's a bit expensive, but this is the second generation one that works better. This holder seems better than all the other ones I've seen because this can suspend the tablet facing down from above. This can also be great for mounting the tablet when you're sitting on the couch or bed, or at a desk, like pictured, so I would use it regularly. (The non-deluxe version is $54.99 on Amazon. They also have a version that stands on the floor instead of clamping on a table.)

I also would be so happy to have the pink vibrator from my NSFW list. I am not linking to it because of it being NSFW. It came out last year and won an award for the unique motion it has. It has some great reviews, and I would love to try it. I think most women should try toys like this one, even if you're currently happy, maybe this would be better!

Another thing that would be extremely cool and useful to have is a portable scanner that is really light and small. Any that's good, but I have put this color mobile document scanner on my wishlist. It has better reviews than the Epson and it's currently cheaper because a seller has refurbished ones available. It's quick and has such good reviews. This will help prevent things from getting lost and cluttered when we are out of town or just out in the car. I think these are going to sell out before you get a chance to decide because Amazon is ranking it number one for mobile scanners. A few minutes ago, the seller had 3 left, and now they have 2 left. But it says "more on the way" so hopefully these can be backordered or gotten later.

They have a wired version as well: http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-SA521CN-Interconnected-Hardwire/dp/B000EVO9D4/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41uKzhkqyXL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=058RS7TT7CC15YB6G704

I was able to connect my hardwired smoke detectors to my SmartThings system with a BRK RM4 Relay. I installed it in the junction box behind the detector in my basement. When the alarm sounds it will open its switch. By connecting this switch to the auxiliary contact terminals on a door sensor mounted nearby, my HA system knows that the alarms are sounding. This should also work with any other hub that supports a zwave door switch (read: all of them.)

Here's the magic:
BRK RM4 Smoke Alarm Accessory Relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039PF21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_-HVLwb9C5KFTY

And the door switch I'm using:
Ecolink Z-Wave Door/Window Sensor (DWZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_qKVLwbPRVRM5Y

Optional Accessory Pack

I'd love something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CUJGML4, but I've heard that UFPs will set off smoke alarms in some cases. That, and you'd still want to figure out how to cut power.

To put one in every room and location needed in my house would cost 900 dollars. Not worth it.

Want the notifications, get 1 LEEO monitor for each floor.

Image

I make a living putting the wet stuff on the hot stuff. The proper placement of smoke alarms is worth far more than the cute functions of the nest--and my whole house is automated.

Leeo Smart Alert Smoke/CO Remote Alarm Monitor for iOS and Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMX4GUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jzFgybBF9THW6

All that needs to be done with interconnected smoke alarms is to attach a relay (kiddie) and then a dry contact sensor to interface to the hub. No reason to spend six hundred dollars of 5 nest units.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQNPOHI

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5HB4U5

It's one of those 2lb bottles. This one I think: https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-FESA5-Auto-Extinguisher/dp/B000P0DPGQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474627386&sr=8-7&keywords=auto+fire+extinguisher