Best fish food according to redditors
We found 1,277 Reddit comments discussing the best fish food. We ranked the 138 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,277 Reddit comments discussing the best fish food. We ranked the 138 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Glad you seem so willing and ready to help your betta! Im gonna try to cover everything that you need to help your betta live a happy healthy life in one comment :)
Requirements -
Petsmart sells 5 gallon kits that come with filters and lids! A 25-50watt heater will work for a 5 gallon, preferably adjustable like the 50watt aqueon is common in pet stores and theres a preset heater that would also work the tetra 40 or something i think its 50watt as well
You will also need to cycle your tank! Ill explain that a bit more below and include links.
Fish-in cycling -
Basically the fish-in cycling process consists of 50% water changes daily using Seachem Prime (preferably). Do this until your tank is cycled, which I’ll explain how to know that below.
While cycling, add the beneficial bacteria directly into the filter daily.
A good filter set up is something with low flow, it can be baffled if needed. For filter media (or the guts of the filter) cermaic bio media, aquarium sponge, and filter floss would be great. Don’t replace any of this unless it starts breaking down, then you’ll need to seed new media, but you shouldn’t have to worry about that for a long time.
You’ll need an API Master Test kit, this is an accurate way to know your parameters (such as ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate). This is more accurate than strips, with test strips its super easy to get an inaccurate reading. The kit also lasts longer so you’ll get your money’s worth. I’ll include a link below to the kit.
When the tank is cycled, you’ll test and find 0 parts per million (ppm) ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and ‘x’ amount ppm of nitrate. (Dont focus too hard on what parts per million means, its just how this stuff is measured. Nitrates should be kept under 20ppm, they arent as toxic as ammonia or nitrites but can be in large amounts.)
After your tank is cycled, you’ll need to do weekly water changes of 15-25% using a gravel vacuum preferably. Gravel vacuum/siphons allow you to get the dirt out of the gravel easily without needing to take it out. Highly recommend getting one of these! Its a necessity!
• Avoid large water changes, it could offset the balance of your tank. Never rinse the filter media in tap water, that can kill the beneficial bacteria (which I’ll send links to explain that more in a second). To clean the filter inserts aka media, just take them out and swish or squeeze in old tank water till the gunk is out. You’ll probably only need to do this once a month or so.
Links-
Information:
Nitrogen Cycle: https://fishlab.com/nitrogen-cycle/
Fish-In Cycling: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app
My diagram/explanation on the cycle:https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/c8evu4/nitrogen_cycle_art_by_me/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app
Supplies:
API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K
Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u-kKDbTMV2W8K
Northfin Food Betta Bits 1Mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the best quality pellet I’ve found, here’s why:
• Nutritious, includes whole ingredients
• No fillers, hormones, or artificial pigments
• Packed with proteins, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals
• Floating pellets, roughly 1mm (they float for a bit then drop, my bettas chase them down)
• Easily digestible to promote optimal nutrient absorption
up
(This stuff is advertised by seller, but if you read the labels its all good)
Helpful other supplies:
Seachem Stability Fish Tank Stabilizer - For Freshwater and Marine Aquariums 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k.kKDbDZMVD4J
(Bacteria in a bottle, it’ll help speed up the cycling process but it is optional)
Gravel Vacuum/Siphon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q97ZPSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LblKDbFT79MAB
(Of course you don’t need this specific one, I just chose the best seller off Amazon as an example of what to look for. The local pet store should have these for around $10)
How-To Gravel Vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY
Umm.. ok. Unfortunately, if that bowl is Liam’s permanent home, he won’t have the really great life that he deserves. No living fish should be forced to live in such a tiny bowl/tank permanently.
A 5gallon is the recommended minimum tank size to give your new pal the best possible quality of life... You can keep him TEMPORARILY in the bowl but you’ll need to change the water DAILY with fresh dechlorinated water (or pure spring water works too but is a bit more costly) since such a small container is going to foul up fast. Remove any leftover food/waste ASAP as soon as you see it.
A larger tank is going to be more stable and better for the betta in the long run. I really hope you’ll upgrade him sooner rather than later.
Some cheap ones can be had:
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-40713.html?cgid=300128 (manually click on and select the 5gal. It’s going for around $31.99 at the time of this comment)
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-imagine-aquarium-kit-38988.html?cgid=300128 (be sure to get the 5gal. version currently priced at $25.99 at the time of this comment, DO NOT USE THE DIVIDER, I’m linking you this tank with the intent that you only put one betta in it, 5g for one single betta).
https://www.amazon.com/AquaView-6-5-Gallon-Power-Filter-Lighting/dp/B0182CAHWS
I recommend a sponge filter which isn’t included in those kits but would be gentler/more effective for a betta than those filters included in the tank kits. Also recommended a 25w heater (assuming you go for 5 g tank) with a manual temperature control knob since preset heaters are not accurate.
Once you have the 5g tank, sponge filter, and proper heater, you need to do Fish-in Nitrogen Cycle: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle
Must Have Items for your Nitrogen Cycling process + Additional Info:
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle.
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form.
https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.
Other stuff:
Also... try getting NorthFin Betta Bits, they're one of the best pellets with high quality ingredients, little or no fillers, and absolutely no nasty toxic preservatives. My bettas love them so much that they inhale them like it's drugs for a drug addict or something LOL (or exactly like Kirby)! https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Food-Betta-Pellet-Package/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4/
Beware of overfeeding, which is equally bad for bettas (they are gluttons and would eat till they burst if given the chance) https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg. (save this pic for reference, feed betta as much as makes his belly match between 1st and 2nd photo, then let him digest back down to a normal belly before feed again.)
Filter - any as long as it have adjustable flow (or else you can make a baffle if the flow is too strong, google about that), or many here recommend a basic Sponge-Filter to have a gentle water output that won't be stressful and push the betta all around the tank (the ones with big fins have a hard time with strong currents in their tank).
Heater - Any heater, following the 5-watt-per-gallon power rating rule, with a manual knob for setting temperature (so for example 5g you want at least 25watt heater), don't go for preset heaters (they're not very accurate). Bettas like 78-80F (25-27C).
Plants - Bettas like to have a lot (like a jungle) of plants to hide in, swim through, explore, play, and rest on. Some beginner live plants that don't require special setups are Marimo Moss balls + Java moss, other live plants may have special requirements in order to thrive. Silk plants (cloth leaves) are fine too if you don't have a green thumb. I do a mixed hybrid tank; silk plants + lots of marimo moss balls + java moss. Make sure if using silk/fake plants that there's no sharp pokey bits, remove and sand them down if there are.
Decor - Bettas appreciate cave-like decor that they can hide in. Make sure there's nothing sharp on the inside of the cave, nor sharp edges or sharp parts outside. Avoid also any smallish openings that a betta can get their head stuck in if they get curious. Another nice decor is the ZooMed Floating Betta Log (for 5g or larger tanks), bettas like hanging out in there.
More info on Betta care & needs: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index
If after reading all this info it seems like more than you can handle, you should try to rehome him on r/aquaswap to a local aquarist with a big planted tank to give him the best life. He’s a living creature and you have to consider his needs as you are responsible for his quality of life. If you want to keep him, then you absolutely have to give him the best care and best environment possible so that he can live a long healthy life (bettas can live 3-5 years and sometimes more if you really treat them well). When there’s a will there’s a way! You can and should do it!
Yes, clowns can change color as they age. They can also sometimes darken if they host in corals instead of anenomes.
Additionally, your food is going to impact their color as well. Ones that are high in [Krill, Shrimp, Carotene, and Spirulina] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E7K52/?tag=fishlore-20) can increase the red/orange coloring. There are many foods that are specifically designed to make Red colors really Pop!
Since you are trying to learn as much as you can, here are my simple guidelines!
Supplies
-filter
-heater (3-5 Watts per gallon)
-tank 2.5 + ( bigger the better )
Upkeep
-water change 25% small tank& 10% for larger every other week
-plant fertilizer ( liquid and/or tabs )
-quality pellets ( I recommend this )
I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:
Equipment
Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
Setting up your tank
After your tank has cycled
Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!
Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.
As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.
Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.
Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.
While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.
As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.
The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.
50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.
For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.
Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.
No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&amp;qid=1572116532&amp;sr=8-8
To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.
https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&amp;qid=1572116736&amp;sr=8-7
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&amp;qid=1572116792&amp;sr=8-3&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&amp;qid=1572116832&amp;sr=8-3
Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&amp;qid=1572117085&amp;sr=8-16
Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.
https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI
https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&amp;keywords=fish+tank+heater&amp;pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&amp;pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&amp;pd_rd_w=uFCrj&amp;pd_rd_wg=125c4&amp;pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&amp;pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&amp;psc=1&amp;qid=1572117367
https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&amp;qid=1572117834&amp;sprefix=northfin+&amp;sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&amp;qid=1572117868&amp;sprefix=fluval+bug&amp;sr=8-4
I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.
I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.
Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.
I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.
Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.
The decor is up to you and what you like.
Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.
And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.
Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️
Bettas require space, despite how they are sold in various stores. While there's no minimum, and certainly it may live in that small of a space, you'd need to be changing the water daily at a minimum, probably twice a day. Are you using tap water? If so, are you treating it with something to remove the Chlorine/Chloramines? Fish ailments are hard to diagnose, but a fish in a bowl like that will NEVER be healthy.
An ideal male Betta tank would be, at a minimum, 5gallons, with some kind of filter (minor water movement, Bettas don't like much current), with lots of hiding places, water maintained at 80-82 deg F, and frequent water changes with treated water. Also, I highly recommend the Hikari Betta pellets. I feed my Betta 2-3 pellets in the morning, and 2-3 in the evening. Do NOT overfeed, particularly when in a small container!
Your betta is very sick. I know you don't want to fast him anymore, but if you aren't careful about feeding him he will most likely die. It's crueler to continue to feed him than it is to fast him. Cut his food back to a minimum if you have to. I would recommend ordering or going to your local pet store to get these pellets or something similar. Feed one in the morning and one at night until he looks better, then jump up to two in the morning or two at night. Your betta has a tummy that is roughly the size of his eyeball, so no matter what you're feeding him that's all he can eat without getting sick.
I'd also consider getting some epsom salt. You add one teaspoon to a gallon of water and dip him in it for about five minutes, then put him back in the normal tank. Make sure the salt bath has been treated with whatever water conditioner you use in his main tank and is close to the same temperature as his main tank.
Some people also like to feed their fish a boiled pea, with the skin taken off. They do this because it's fiber and it helps the poor fish digest everything. While you can do this, I would personally recommend going with daphnia because it's way more natural for them and will work with their system better.
Another thing you can do is boost his heater up to 80-84 degrees fahrenheit if possible.
So couple of things, first off being, a 45gal is a bit small for one single tail fish. How many other fish do you have in there?
Second, and the bigger thing, goldfish don't do well with flakes. They tend to sift through sand (I really strongly do not recommend gravel for goldfish because they can suck one up and choke) for food. Its a great goldfish pastime. But they don't do well with flakes because they break up, like you said, dirty the water and you shouldn't be feeding them at the surface. Its a bigger issue for fancies but still a good habit for singles too. Try to get yourself some sinking fish pellets. Also, if he's having a hard time competing for food, make it so he can eat. I have four fancies in the same tank. Two are faster than the other two and easily get all the food so I hand feed them to make sure each is getting the right amount.
I really recommend a gel food though. I'm personally madly in love with Repashy Soilent Green. It looks on the pricy side but it lasts a good long while not to mention, it doesn't have any of the issues with flakes. It sinks really well, doesn't disengigrate in water making it foil and is really great for goldfish. But you can also make your own like this user did. Either way, switching off flakes to something that will sink will help a lot. You can even try veggie clips to hold veggies underwater for them in one place.
Amazon
Eggs
Food
Of course! Oh! I'd also feed pellets over flakes, flakes are messy and hard to portion out. New Life Spectrum, Fluval Bug Bites and Northfin Betta Bits are all good foods, I personally feed my fish a mix of all 3 but the betta bits are probably my favorite of the bunch.
I use this brand of food for my shrimp, if you wanted to look into alternatives.
Repashy Soilent Green is probably the most popular food on this sub. I use it as a primary food, with the occasional New Life Spectrum Thera-A when i don't have any mixed up. Once a week I'll feed frozen food (blood worms and/or brine shrimp) and once a week I'll feed a veggie (right now thawed& de-shelled frozen peas are the easiest for me).
edit: formats lol
I can't imagine that I could ask for the intros to have gone better. The lady who had been in there for about 2 months before the others were introduced (also happened to be about twice the size of them all) was extremely territorial at first. She literally flared at each and every one of them for about a day straight.
2 of the new ladies weren't having it and got right up in her face and flared back at her! It was funny because they are small enough it looks like she could have eaten one of them in a couple bites. Some chasing ensued for the next two days, but after that they all seem to love each other. They will swarm together during feeding time and I haven't seen any fin nipping and no one hides in terror ;). I got really lucky!
I feed Hikari Micro Pellets for their tiny mouths (They've always been a favorite for all my fish), bloodworms on sundays if I remember and am not feeling lazy, and they inevitably eat a bunch of the Repashy Shrimp Soufle that I try and get to my shrimp. I was in my LFS a few weeks ago and the fish in their tanks were going absolutely BONKERS on some weird gel block they had in their tanks. It turned out to be one of the gajillion varieties of Repashy so I thought I would give it a shot. It gets devoured.
Tank stock:
I was going to add some more ottos, but at this point I think I will just push the stock limit with more bettas when I lose self control the next time I go into the pet store.
Running an 92 gallon Eheim Canister filled with Seachem Matrix, De-Nitrate, and Purigen so I think I have quite a bit of filter capacity left at this point :).
I agree with the other comments. Definitely keep an eye out for a larger tank so you can upgrade when possible! A 40 gallon or 55 with two (or three for the 55) fantails would be a nice size and would give your goldfish a buddy, as goldfish are a social species! (Or if not possible, you can do the 29 gallon route and keep him solo.)
I personally feed Saki Hikari for food - https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Saki-Hikari-Fancy-Goldfish-200g/dp/B003ZGCH9I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484715795&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hikari+goldfish but you can try another high quality sinking pellet. Twice a day is fine; just make sure he's eating everything fairly quickly.
FWIW I don't like the blue LED lights because they seem to cause algae for me. I do 8 hours on and 16 off for all of my tanks.
I am personally not a fan of gravel as a substrate for goldfish because of the choking hazard. When you upgrade your tank, you might consider another substrate also.
The last thing I did not see you mention is the nitrogen cycle. Definitely make sure you understand it and have a way to test ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I would recommend API Freshwater Master - https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484716099&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=api+freshwater+master+test+kit You want ammonia at 0ppm, nitrite at 0ppm and nitrate ideally below 20ppm but honestly with a goldfish below 40 is probably okay... Test your water regularly! You may find, when you start testing, that you need to do more water changes than what you are doing now since your tank is undersized and your filter is underpowered. That is, FWIW, also why you don't want to change your filter media like you are doing. You need those bacteria for your nitrogen cycle. Just squeeze out the yuck and rinse with a little tank (NOT TAP-- it needs to be dechlorinated! Seachem Prime if you're not already using it!) water so you don't crash your cycle.
Last note: /r/aquariums has a good sidebar and Solid Gold on youtube is a great goldfish resource.
https://www.amazon.com/Repashy-Soilent-Green-All-Sizes/dp/B00GM29YMA
It's this.
I hear test strips aren’t very accurate, I would recommend the API Master Test Kit
Also with the food freeze dried isn’t great, I would recommend frozen bloodworms or at least the Fluval Bug Bites
Also how often are you doing water changes?
I would say to fast him for a couple days and see if that helps.
I personally like shirakura shrimp food, link below. I break them up before putting them in because my amanos like to fight for it if i drop a whole. But you only need like 2 a week in reality.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MZ2K7F4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l9PWBbHQ3613S
You could try breaking them into quarters. Leftover foods can cause an ammonia spike. Noticeable in smaller tanks, less so in larger tanks.
I use Hakari sinking wafers and they're about a quarter the size of that one. They also don't last long and start to dissolve when they become water-logged. Snails take care of whatever my BN plecos don't.
> I don't have tinier fish unfortunately.
You mean fortunately! It would have been a nasty surprise to notice all of your neon tetras or whatever disappearing over the next few days.
New Life Spectrum makes good quality pellets that sink, like this one. I have some Omega One sinking shrimp pellets. I drop in a couple of those at night for my kuhli loaches.
Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)
API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002568S6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQITK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXRDZPO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A316L92SV4DH0Y&amp;psc=1
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506349229&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=tetra%2Bair%2Bpump&amp;th=1
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)
Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm
If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/plantsetc
I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/food
Here are a few they have mentioned:
Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&amp;newItems=C38WET63RPACA8%2C1
New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Formula-Semi-Float/dp/B0038JTL1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506350883&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=New+Life+Spectrum+Betta+Pellets
Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013EXTU7S/ref=twister_B00ZJZMXIS?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.
Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!
I got freeze dried daphnia from amazon, https://www.amazon.ca/Hikari-Bio-Pure-Freeze-Daphnia-0-42-Ounce/dp/B003WRG54I
I have also heard about the pea method, but peas are considered not fit to feed because they are veggies while bettas are carniverous. It is the fibre content that is supposed to help them pass waste which is supposed to be helpful. If you have zero access to daphnia and really want to try something that could help quickly, read up a bit on the pea method and try that. From what I know it involves blanching a pea in boiling water then de shelling it and feeding a tiny amount (About 1/2-1/4 of the pea) to your fish after it has cooled a bit.
Northfin Betta Bites: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yZGkDbEWRHJ36
Fluval Bug Bites (for small fish) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HYGkDb8B2Y2JH
Fluval Betta Bites https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRC35Z9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7YGkDbJNW560H
The other frozen foods are found at the pet store. Omega One is the brand I use. The only ingredient in the cube are what it is on the package (bloodworms, brine, mysis shrimp). Bug Bites can be found at Petco as well. Northfin, you'll have to order on Amazon.
Turn the temp to 80, it's a good spot for bettas.
I definitely suggest switching to a pellet, such as: Aqueon Betta Pellets and/or Omega One Betta Buffet Pellets, both which can be found at your local Petsmart ; OR Fluval Bug Bites which can be found on Amazon <--- this may not be the proper recommended Fluval Bug Bites, but it's within that range of either Small Tropical Bites, or this one.
As for blood worms and brine shrimp, if you are using the freeze dried version, bettas tend to not be too fond of them, however, for a once weekly treat, you can give them the frozen versions, both of which I believe can be found at a local Petsmart, or online at various retailers. If you'd like some links for those, let me know!
Is this the correct food? Fluval A6577 Bug Bites Tropical Fish Small Granules 1.59 oz, Small to Medium Fish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.PLWDbBMK00X7
I will see if I can upgrade tank sooner. Will stay on the water quality til then (well after I learn anything about water quality and my testing kit arrives tomorrow, I will anyway. One thing at a time!)
I second this. Nonetheless, I have encountered stock with stringy, possible parasite-caused poo and this product (fed for about a week) did the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Shield-Sinking/dp/B00RXQ5I3S
For food, I use Northfin which I heard are good. If you want a breakdown of what makes a food high quality there's a little write up on it in the wiki. There are lots of different feeding schedules you can do, but generally people on here fast their betta for one day per week to help with digestion.
Yes, I think the rot will improve on its own dramatically with the new care, without meds. You can keep tabs on him over the next few weeks to make sure its improving and not getting worse or staying the same for too long. At that point you could reconsider meds. Also read up on fish-in cycling now to make sure you're doing it properly and preventing further damage.
When it comes to poor betta care--I've been there!! I'm sorry though, I know it feels bad. As an early teen I had my betta in a small vase, did 100% water changes, no water conditioner, all this awful stuff. The poor thing must've been miserable. My little monster is treated so well now lol. Literally the only thing you can do is turn it around and that's what you're doing. There are so many posts on here about poor betta care, but pretty few about people who are doing your level of required research to get on the right track.
Bettas are such wonderful pets. I'm excited for you to be going through all of this because you'll get to see Pino shine. Learn his personality, see what funny stuff he does. You'll be rediscovering him as a pet all over again I think. Hope it's rewarding!!
Will try ordering that, do you know or could recommend any food? Only issue might be that customs may pull it up or finding one that will ship here, but fingers crossed. Will try get some tetra safe start at the same time, its a long shot that it will still be viable by the time it arrives, but could be worth the shot.
This morning he was a lot perkier though, he came up directly for food, begging for it, and again when I saw him a lil later so it is a positive sign I guess even if he is still not looking physically better.
Edit* they won't ship any medicated supplies to NZ, but I did find a shop that stocks safe start so am going to give that a go once this is all clear and safe- and will be able to maybe get this it wouldn't arrive til Monday- but am being positive for the moment
You should check out NorthFin:
https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Food-Betta-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/
You can too, for under $10!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MZ2K7F4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here's a link
Have you tried Betta Bits? That stuff is so smelly/yummy, I have to hide it from my cats!
One of the best betta foods on the market is Hikari Gold. These pellets are baby-sized too!
He gets 5 pellets of this every morning.
He's been like this for about a month now.
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Regular-Formula/dp/B0002E7K52
This one, if you look in the package it says +garlic
BTW I'm no professional, so all my information comes from what I read
You're right, it could be parasites but it's hard to say. Also sounds like "the shimmies" which I've heard of before but I'm not totally sure what causes it or how to fix it. One of my mollies started looking like this a few months ago. I started feeding NLS Anti-Parasite food almost 3 weeks ago for white stringy poop and out of all of my fish, that molly has made the biggest change. He's not skinny anymore, no longer wobbles, and has also started chasing the other molly around and being aggressive when he never used to be. I do have to crush the pellets with the back of my fingernail in the lid to make it small enough for my little fish to eat. [Edit* I just realized that they sell a small pellet of the same food. Amazon Link.]
Worth a shot, and it's a high quality food anyway even if it isn't a parasite.
You don't really need an oxygen bubbler; bettas can breathe from the surface of the water and your water will be plenty oxygenated if you have something (like a filter) breaking the surface tension. Replace the bubbler with a filter and you'll be golden.
Throw that food away and get something with way more protein. Most people recommend this stuff which you can get at PetCo. It's worth the money; it lasts FOREVER. I usually feed my fish 2-3 pellets twice daily.
With a filterless tank that small you're going to have to do water changes a lot more often than once a week. Pics of the tank would help a ton too!
As long as the FIRST ingredient on the ingredients list is the actual item you're ok. Look at your Fluval Bug Bites. I use the Tropical Formula for Small Fish (the light blue container), the first ingredient is the actual protein itself, in this case Black Soldier Fly Larvae (ewww). But, if you look at the back of something like TetraMin (sorry Tetra) and the first ingredient is Fish Meal. So, fish meal may have fish but it will also have ground up small ocean fish, left over bits of fish, so it includes bone, waste, etc. and you don't know what kind of fish. In case you wondered why it's not as high quality.
So, for your Betta, as long as you're using the Bug Bites for Betta, that's fine with bloodworms as a treat, no more than a couple of times a week since they aren't very nutritious and if that were all a betta ate, might cause constipation and other problems. Frozen or freeze-dried brine shrimp same thing re the treat a couple times a week. Same for the Dial a treat. The treats are "or" not each of them 2 times a week. I would trade the Hikari Betta Biogold as it's fish meal first ingredient and look for something like New Life Spectrum (not sure why this one is unavailable, but look around) if your LFS sells it or on Amazon for Bettas.
For your Tetras, Sera is a great brand and I feed that to my fish. As long as you have enough in the tank to eat the tabs they're great. I feed the Fluval Bug Bites I mentioned above. They can get the same treats the Betta gets.
Sorry, don't know about the frogs. I have fed the Hikari sinking pellets for bottom feeders like loaches and Cories and Otos (the green and the orange packets) but I only noticed after that the first ingredient is a meal. So, I occasionally feed it because the packages aren't empty yet, but I won't replace them. I use the Bug Bites for Bottom Feeders for my Cories and Otos.
The other Brand I use is Omega One depending on the size of the fish, sometimes the shrimp micro pellets for color and the veggie ones but I think they're too big for tetras who can get bloated from too many of them. I sometimes use Seachem Chlorella or Shrimp Flakes just for something different.
Hope that helps.
Sounds like he has a bit of swim bladder disease, which is typically caused by constipation.
You say that you give him flake food; this is not recommended, because it actually increases the chances of them becoming constipated. New Life Spectrum Betta Pellets or Hikari Bio-Gold Betta Pellets are much healthier. We feed our boys the New Life Spectrum pellets, and they go absolutely nuts for it. Our girl gets the Hikari pellets (they're smaller, and easier for her to eat) and she is equally ravenous over it.
Most likely, you've been unintentionally overfeeding him because of the flakes. It's okay to give him worms occasionally for variety, but don't overdo it. With NLS and Hikari pellets, it's easier to prevent overfeeding. For our bettas, they get 2 pellets per day, and then a day of no food, to fast them and give their digestive systems a break.
Since your boy sounds like he has a case of SBD, I recommend you continue to fast him. That is the best course of treatment. Make sure his water is clean. If you can find it in your local fish store, get some frozen Daphnia - this works as a mild laxative. Do the same thing as you would with a blanched pea; fast him for 4-5 days, then offer some of the Daphnia, and fast him again.
Curing SBD is in no way a quick process. We're currently treating a new rescue for a harsher case of it, and he's just beginning to show signs of improvement after nearly 3 weeks of fasting & blanched peas. Just have patience and stick with the treatment.
Mine love NLS Betta Formula and fortunately it's also pretty cheap. Hikari Betta Bio-Gold is good too, especially for bettas with small mouths. The main thing you want to look for is that the first ingredients are meat sources rather than grains or anything else.
I took out one of the employees there are only too happy to help out and advise newer fish-folks! https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Bio-Pure-Freeze-Daphnia-0-42-Ounce/dp/B003WRG54I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493302382&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=daphnia.
So, since he's having such a problem getting to the surface of the water, the VERY first thing I would do is go and get a breeder net like this: Uxcell Fish Tank Aquarium Net Breeder, White Green https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00H4XTQQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oodXCb71NDJCS
(Hopefully ur local fish store or Walmart will have them, but they're smaller than this Amazon one.) Putting him in this net keeps him right near the surface so he doesn't have to struggle to get his much needed surface air and The bigger the net, the better...that way you'll have a little room to stick a plant or 2 like these in it: Blue Spotted Betta Plant, Amazon Sword Great For Betta Fish and Use Betta Leaf Pad & Betta Log https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N3ISXBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7qdXCb9ZDM0KQ
Betta Plant Red Anubias Leaf By Blue Spotted, Great For Betta Fish https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00M0NC1UM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JrdXCb86XDAZJ
Smarlin Aquarium Plants Decoration, Artificial Plants for Fish Tank, 2 Pack (6 inches Height) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PH2L3QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dsdXCbEV8JH9H
Giving him a nice, small silk leafy plant to rest on or hide under will help keep his stress level down and help him heal faster.
Also, get some frozen Daphnia from your LFS (Petco, PetSmart, etc.) Daphnia sould work as a gentle laxative for him... apparently peas are NOT the answer for constipated Bettas. If you can't find that, then get some freeze dried Daphnia such as this: Hikari Bio-Pure Freeze Dried Daphnia for Pets, 0.42-Ounce https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003WRG54I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XDdXCbFWCWWVH
If you HAVE to use the freeze dried, try to soak it for awhile in some tank water, it's SUPER light and never stops floating. I pinch the shit out of it between my fingers under water and try to kind of saturate it that way
Next, you can either:
http://bettasplendid.weebly.com/salt-baths.html
Let's start here and see what happens. But, hurry up and get him that breeder net!😉
Right, almost forgot this one itsy bitsy detail I don't think anyone mentioned. =3=;
&nbsp;
Fancy goldfish are also more prone to swim bladder disease than regular goldfish (single tailed/slim bodied goldfish) due to their cute round body shape, and that's pretty much when your goldfish's little gas chamber in it's body that helps it regulate going up and down in the tank, gets weird or compressed. Sometimes it is due to genetics or bacteria or parasites (water quality is important here, as is quarantines if you ever get another fish), but usually it's due to eating issues, which is why a lot of goldfish owners would recommend you to use sinking pellets and gel foods (or homemade if you're super into that), instead of fish flakes and floating pellets; if your goldfish eats fish flakes and floating pellets at the top of the water, they can "eat" air that would imbalance their body making them float upward out of their control or float upside down.
&nbsp;
I know some goldfish owners use New Life Spectrum sinking pellets, I feed mine Hikari pellets, and a lot of people including myself use this [gel formala Soilent Green] (https://www.amazon.com/Repashy-Soilent-Green-Sizes-340g/dp/B00RSILXAS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501287662&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=repashy). You can also feed them frozen brine shrimp and bloodworms, and spinach and peas and some other vegetables too. Peas are also used to aid in digestion if your goldfish has swim bladder issues, but also has a lot of nutrients, but also acts kind of as a laxative so don't feed them peas all the time.
&nbsp;
Since you're only feeding your goldfish once or twice a day the amount the size of its eye, any of these foods will pretty much last you forever.
&nbsp;
Also to piggyback on that comment about getting a larger tank, Petco has a dollar per gallon at select stores (or 50% off larger tanks), which is a pretty good deal. Or if you are like me and live in a place that Petco doesn't participate in that event, I've gotten all of my tanks off craigslist, and I use the search terms "aquarium" and "fish tank" while searching.
&nbsp;
Also yea, I can't believe they were going to flush him, especially since craigslist allows rehoming of pets on their website and pet stores can also take fish sometimes for resale.
I don't do too anything fancy. Break up an algae wafer, very small pinch of fluval shrimp food, and for shrimplets I do go a bit fancy with Bacter AE Then sometimes I put some fresh veg for them and the snails. Thin slice of cucumber.
I would like to try some nicer foods for color, but my shrimp are breeding pretty well so I'm not worried about it. I'm a bit of a tight ass when it comes to spending money.
It really depends on how many you have and how much you feed them each time. You put some food in, see how long it takes them to finish it, monitor the water parameters with testing, and kind of build a routine that works for your tank. Do you know what you want to put in it?
They're grazers so they'll pick through the substrate, eat what accumulates on your decorations, snack on what's collected on the pre-filter, etc.
One small container of Fluval Shrimp Granules could last years feeding a 5.5g shrimp tank. It would likely expire before you got through it. Plus it's good to switch things up with algae wafers and veggies.
Might want to give repashy soilent green a shot. It's a gel food you mix yourself with boiling water. It takes a couple of minutes once every two weeks and it's much more nutritional and helps prevent some health issues. A lot of breeders and distributors like Jenny from Solid Gold and Dandy Oranda swear by it. You can get it on Amazon and the powder lasts forever. I've had mine for several months and hardly made a dent in it.
https://www.amazon.com/Repashy-Soilent-Green-All-Sizes/dp/B00GM29YMA
It's this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Shirakura-Baby-Shrimp-Food-Micro-organism/dp/B00KMJLEYA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071NMW1V3/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6586-Bottom-Feeder-Granules/dp/B071NMW1V3/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&amp;qid=1550763884&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
Good point.
I just picked up some of these bug bites.. Haven't tried them yet, but they're insect based and don't have krill.
These https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07194GD1F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
IMHO blood worms (red mosquito larvea), brine shrimp and daphnia are all great foods (hikari isn't the best or only food supplier but it had the best reviews on amazon, so I linked them). I've never ordered them from amazon but I guess that would work fine for the freeze dried stuff (be sure to soak these before feeding, because the can expand!). I have no idea whether the frozen bloodworms will thaw during transport, so I can't help with that, sorry! I usually get them at my local fish store :)
Should I soak these blood worms in water (tank water) before feeding them to my fish? Or does that only apply to frozen foods
https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Bio-Pure-Freeze-Dried-0-42-Ounce/dp/B00025K1GQ
http://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Bio-Pure-Freeze-Dried-0-42-Ounce/dp/B00025K1GQ
yeah this guy.
and the medicine I bought is this one
http://www.amazon.com/Bendazole-250mg-Fenbendazole-Powder-packets/dp/B009TAQ4OI
while I wait for
https://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=30e0794a-7b6a-11d5-a192-00b0d0204ae5&amp;sfb=1&amp;itemguid=01d28703-f468-4936-b5b3-835643a1be34&amp;utm_content=16572&amp;ccd=IFF003&amp;mr:trackingCode=4605A364-3C81-E211-BA78-001B21631C34&amp;mr:referralID=NA&amp;mr:device=c&amp;mr:adType=plaonline&amp;mr:ad=41691845323&amp;mr:keyword=&amp;mr:match=&amp;mr:tid=pla-86672856283&amp;mr:ploc=9031328&amp;mr:iloc=&amp;mr:store=&amp;mr:filter=86672856283&amp;gclid=COLLt-Cq5MsCFQqIfgodeagKIw
:) some details!
Cory's were added a couple months ago and the betta was mostly fine with them and not acting weird like he is now, so I don't think it's anything they brought into the tank.
However, now that I think about it I forgot that I did add some different food to the tank recently. I tried some smaller Hikari pellets for the betta because the rasboras can be like piranhas at times and would occasionally steal the bigger Zoo Med betta pellets I have which are WAY too big for them if the betta was slow on grabbing it.
Ugh... my memory is bad I completely forgot about the new food. I don't feed them any frozen food (sorry boys). On a regular basis it was usually just TetraMin Tropical Flakes for the rasboras, Zoo Med Betta pellets (2-3 pellets 2x daily), and Hikari sinking wafers for the Cory's. The Hikari Betta Bio-Gold pellets were the only recent experiment. If it's possibly from food, that would likely be the culprit.
What I added to the tank when I got the Cory's (Hikari Sinking Wafers): Amazon link
What I recently added within the past 2 weeks from Petco (Betta Bio-Gold Baby Pellets): Amazon link
Hikari Bottomfeeder Wafers.
This has happened to me a couple of different times and I've resolved it a couple different ways:
These are working for me right now, but I switched 100% to only these.
Edit: if you feed an empty tank, you can start a nematode culture that these guys love to chase & eat. I have a tank full of nematodes that I'll drop fish into when they're not eating. One of my fish has realized and tries to swim into the transit jar as soon as I stick it in. Then he hides from the same jar when he's been in the tank. It's funny because the nematode tank is way smaller than his.
Thank you. His water is normally around 80-81F.
Food is a little confusing. I used to feed him a regiment of pellets, daphnia, and mysis shrimp, but on Hikari's website, their daphnia and mysis shrimp are listed as "treat" while pellets are "daily diet". So I've switched to pellets daily: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00025Z6JS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with some blood shrimp as treats. Any suggestions one way or the other regarding this?
Fasting could provide extra incentive to eat the pellets. Lots of Betta owners fast their fish one day per week to prevent constipation so that is perfectly okay.
You could try Hikari Betta Bio-Gold Baby Pellets which are a smaller pellet. My betta really likes these.
In the end you may have to go with whatever your fish will eat. They can be very picky eaters.
$25 item
$10 item
$5 item
I vote for two $10 items.
don't go talking too loud you'll cause a landslide, Mr. Jones
Have you tried putting garlic in the food? Some folks have success with that, or with things like NLS Thera A + Garlic
If you do it yourself, mush up the garlic to release all the oils so they can soak into the food before you give it to the fish.
I feed New life spectrum every day. Occasionally switching it up with shrimp pellets or algae wafers.
They eat Hikari micro pellets and occasionally a small amount of frozen brine shrimp. And I've only had them about a month, I haven't seen any fry yet! The back of the tank is pretty densely planted though, so it's possible some could be hidden. I hope not with the hydra!
I think you should be fine with your setup. Bettas are hardy so I dont think you need to do daily water change. I have been a little lazy with my tanks and sometimes I do bi weekly water change (even 3-4 weeks sometimes). With a heavily planted tank, you'll be fine! I did feed my babies live brine shrimp but as they get older, I used this to feed my baby fish:
https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Usa-AHK21108-Micropellets-1-58-Ounce/dp/B0010P8FWO/ref=sr_1_52?keywords=hikari&amp;qid=1570111429&amp;s=pet-supplies&amp;sr=1-52
I like the idea of raising shrimp and the betta together. If the shrimp thrive and start breeding, your betta can feed off of the larva too. Avoid feeding them too much at one time - I used to feed my babies 3 times a day. I hope this helps. Good luck! :) Keep me posted of your progress!
I feed my tetras Hikari Micro Pellets. They slowly sink, and all my neons and cardinals go wild. It also helps to keep my larger top feeders from eating all the food before my tetras can get to them.
I have this product exactly and it's literally lasted me multiple betta lifetimes like /u/whale52 said. I actually had to throw out my second bottle because it expired lol
NLS is a good one. Omega One is not too bad.
What country are you located in?
Petco has the dollar per gallon sale every so often. So, you could get a 10 gal for $10
Then:
Sponge filter
Air pump tubing
Heater
Thermometer
Edit: this is just basics. Other things you'd need: a hood, a liquid test kit, Food- this one is just okay, cheaper in store to get Omega one pellets, absolutely need water conditioner- this one is very concentrated
If you like internal filters the Aqueon quietflows and Tetra Whispers are always good. I use HOB power filters on my tanks. I use an AquaClear on my 29 gallon and a Tetra whisper hob filter on my 4.3 gal, but the flow is a bit strong on them so I use a baffle. Theres also external canister filters, but those are really pricey and there are only a few canister filters available for tanks under 10 gallons. Sponge filters are also good choices for bettas and are almost a necesitty if you plan to add shrimp eventually, I dont have any experience with them though.
Lighting is a bit complicated because if you choose one too strong and dont have any live plants (it looks like the tank has a few though) then it will definitely spur algae growth. I use some a cheap one from amazon that has a pretty low wattage and on my tank with only java fern in it. But I use the AZOO Flexi light for my planted 4.3 gal with no algae issues on either. Also when you cycle algae will probably begin to grow but that is natural and nothing to worry about.
Also if the plexiglass covers the whole top of the tank and is thick then it will be a bit humid, youre right on that. It will definitely have to be temporary. The petstores near me never have any lids besides the metal ones that you would normally use for non-aquatic tanks, and they run for 20-30$ plus shipping online.
For transporting him you could use a bag, some pet stores sell bags specifically made for transporting fish. I usually use the cups that bettas come in, but since he is your first you probably wont have any lying around, so a plastic bag would be your best bet.
Id wait to get snails or shrimp until you upgrade to the 20 gal. Unless you choose a smaller snail species like nerites, then you could add one to the 5 gal. Apple and mystery snails get very big and have a large biomass so you would want a larger tank and good filtration for them. He would probably be really nice as a centerpiece if you do get the 20 gal long. Some bettas dont like shrimp (mine ate them), but many usually get along with snails.
Edit: I also agree with the other commenter. New water conditioner is probably needed and new food eventually. I use this food, overall though Omega One makes decent food. On the more expensive side, Ive heard Northfin Betta Bits are good and high in protein.
I'd go for pellets rather than flakes if it were me since they're less messy in the tank. This brand's a popular one.
Two pellets twice a day. Morning and night. This is the food: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038JTL1Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Thank you so much for your help, it's really appreciated. I just worry about the guy because honestly between last night and this morning, what you see in that video is the extent I've seen him out. He's either hiding in his coconut shell, under the bridge or laying on/in the gravel.
I have a 5 gallon that I was planning to start cycling soon for him to move into for the summer. I don't mind moving him in sooner but I worry about getting it cycled quick enough.
I've done 2 water changes now of about 50% each and tested the water. The water's all good now. I've never thrown out the filter, I just swish it around in the old tank water before I dump it. The snails are nerites which I moved out of his tank yesterday just in case their waste is contributing to his illness.
He's got two thermometers. The first one read 80, the new one i bought today just to be sure reads 86, so it may be a bit too warm.
The more I look into it though the more confident I am that we have overfed him to the point of being lethally bloated. I've tried the pea trick but he won't eat anything at all. Someone on another forum (not reddit) recommended something called daphnia for emergency bloating situations. Do you have any experience with this? I've been to the petstore 3 times in the last 2 days but no one has reccomended it. I don't know if it's because the product is dangerous otherwise or if they don't carry it. At this point if it will help I'm willing to drive wherever I need to to get it. I don't want to order it off of Amazon because I really think by the time it gets here Papa Smurf will be dead. Truly, when I came in this morning I thought he was dead. I started scooping him out and he started flailing around. Oddly enough when the kids came in today he came out of his log on his own. Stared at them for a minute and then went back in his log where he's been laying down ever since. So he's got some energy, but it's fading super fast.
Thank you so much for all your help! I really appreciate how this forum is so willing to help out and advise newer fish-folks!
https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Bio-Pure-Freeze-Daphnia-0-42-Ounce/dp/B003WRG54I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493302382&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=daphnia
I ordered the Hikari freeze dried brand of daphnia on amazon, here !
I usually feed 3 times a week, rotating between Algae Wafer and Fluval Shrimp Granules. It looks like the granules has the iodine and calcium carbonate. Maybe I should switch to mainly granules and let the shrimps graze the algae from my rocks. As for the Remineraliz-P I will have to check tomorrow if it has carbonate. How important is it?
Here is a FTS from a couple weeks ago. I found the pump a bit strong, so I pointed to to the glass to try and break some of the power. I only house RCS, so i don't think it is the lack of hiding spots.
Here is the mobile version of your link
The title says it all. I was feeling guilty after reading this post from /u/Jadis4742 and decided to upgrade Oscar's little tank. He went from this to this and he's noticeably brighter in color, much more active, and his fins seem larger and perkier after just a week. It's a Fluval Chi 5 gallon with a heater, filter, and leaf hammock.
White, stringy poop is usually an indicator of some sort of intestinal disease. Here is a link that lists symptoms and the recommended treatment.
In your case, due to the bloating and white, stringy feces, my best guess is Hexamita (see bottom of the link). The fish needs to ingest the medication so it goes through the gut. Hex Shield pellets (the smaller, 1mm size) might be a good option. If the betta doesn't go for it, try crushing the pellet with its normal food and see if that works.
I personally have had some great success with Shirakura, they go crazy for it when I put a tiny amount in and will fight for it.
Not OP here, can I introduce calcium with shrimp food? For example, thinking about buying Shirakura Ebi Dama Shrimp Food?
I had my tank for about 7 years trying many different fish foods. I had the most success keeping fish healthy with New Life Spectrum. I highly suggest you go to your LFS or purchase it online.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002E7K52/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687502&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B0002E7ITK&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1SFT4VTJ4ZYRPGZQAEMP
I was gonna say don't, but it's only $8 and actually has decent reviews (but many are "good deal for the price" reviews).
I assume Bettas only...