I did this at my house! But much cheaper!

I bought one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/BACOENG-Stainless-Motorized-Control-Electrical/dp/B00PVR7P6O/

And plugged it into a normal zwave switch.

Whenever it loses power it closes. The valve was around $70 and the outlet was about $30. $100 for the parts.

It's actually super easy. Bought everything off amazon.

• ice line kit, attach to your water line under sink
  
  
• Solenoid Valve 1/4", splice 12v plug and into a timer or wifi timer.
  
  
• Attach water line inlet to tank
  
  
• Drill hole in tank or use overflow box for water outlet. I made my own
  
  
• Optional, get water filter if your water is chlorinated, check valve for safety, 1 gph drip emitter for better flow control.
  
  I'll make a full guide later

I posted this the other day but a Reddit user suggested I paint it black to have it absorb more heat so I figured I'd post up the finished product. If anyone is interested here's the materials I used, just cut the rubber hose attached to a new clean insecticide sprayer, attach adapter, put on your hose and boom, camp shower with fairly decent water pressure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SAO7XQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GZZFXA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039EEN0M/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Homebrew Materials:

Vacuum Pump Oil

Vacuum Tubing

1/4" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male Hose Fitting

1/4" Male x 1/4" Female NPT Extension Hose

Vacuum Pump

Filters

Spatulas

Magnetic Stir Bar

Digital Hotplate with Magnetic Stirrer

Nitrile Gloves (Better than Latex)

Empty Capsules (Buy Separated unless you hate your life)

Capsule Machine (If you value your sanity, buy more than a 100... I hated my life doing this)

Mohr Pipets

Pipette 10ml

Mortar and Pestle (If you're doing orals, get this... Otherwise, you're playing Russian Roulette with your doses and liver)

Funnel (For pouring into small places)

Alconox (For clean your shit)

Temperature Gun (How hot is my shit?)

Graduated Cylinder (If you measure with beakers, you're a fucking idiot... And you should consider Volumetric Flasks)

Beaker Set

1 Liter Beaker (Because brewing en'masse is better)

Scale (I have a 2kg one, too)

Calibration Weight Set

Calibration Weight 100g (Because you need two for the scale linked)

Vacuum Regulator (Unless you want to filter 9001 times due to broken shit)

Oil (Any USP grade, filtered or unfitlered)

BB

BA

Butyl Stoppers

Flip Top Seals

Crimper

Vials (Unsealed)

Autoclave (Cheaper than an oven, why are you using an oven?!)

Weight Boats (Buy a million of these. They're cheap and useful)

Did I miss something? Probably. Yes.

As noidios said the kegs are going to cost more unless you get a good deal from someone. My local store has the pin locks for $65 each.

Co2 tank sounds about right. You may need to have it filled though depending on how the store sells them. I would consider a bigger tank or a spare as you don't want to run out of Co2. 1 5lb can dispense roughly 6-8 kegs and that is if you don't have a leak. Some kegs can leek. Seeing as how they are all connected and will equalize in pressure one leak going unnoticed for a night can cost you the tank and the pressure in all your attached kegs.

Manifolds is dead on on price.

50ft of 5/16 at $50. maybe shop around on that one. If you know your PSI you can check out This I wouldn't think you would exceed 50 PSI under normal conditions.

Hose Clamps since you are going to be going off of the OD it should work as the OD of the smalles tube is 5/16. Figure you will need 4 for each keg (2 on each end of the line) plus 2 for the line going from the manifold to the tank should be about 34 (assuming 8 kegs.) so 4 orders comes to $$20

3/16 for beer line. I would look at this 100ft A bit more cost effective. Others can chime in on them if I linked a bad product.

Keg Lube save a couple bucks for 4 oz vs the normal 1 oz. Easier to dispense and keep clean imo.

Places where I would spend a little more:

Shanks are up to you but I would go the extra stop for stainless if you can just so you don't have to worry about chrome flaking off a few years from now.

Handles - for the price I take it you are looking at the cheap ones from northern brewer? Can't speak for them for myself but I think they will work. worst comes to worse you replace them a year later.

Edit: Also the kit you listed 1 4 way manifold (say $50 for rounding), 4 bev locks, 4 gas locks (6.50 ea so $52) the faucests look like the cheap chrome ones from amazon $31 ea ($124), 3 feet of gas line with 2 clamps and a faucet wrench aren't worth much. $250 for the kit they are selling for $382 unless I missed something. + dual reg at say $98 but $50 for the regulator. so about $280 in parts that they are charging you $382 for. unless I missed something else

Built my own using an electric ball valve, zwave outlet, and water sensors spread around the house.

Here is the valve I used:

BACOENG 1" DN25 110VAC Stainless Steel Motorized Ball Valve 2 Way/Zone Valve With US Plug(NC CR202 2 Wires Control Electrical Ball Valve)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVR7P6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.6I1Ab0EHAN41

Also available in 3/4 inch.

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-Closed/dp/B007N0J98E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499072073&sr=8-1&keywords=water+solenoid+110v

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499072056&sr=8-6&keywords=timer

+some hoses / tubes / enclosure for your electronics and a few hours of your time.

you should be able to construct a nice system for 50-100 dollar

Ok dude I got you bro...I want you to check 2 thinks for me. Check to make sure that the plastic duck work from the mass air flow sensor to the throttle body is all attached properly and secured. Play close attention to where it is hooked up to the throttle body with that 8 mm hex on the gear clamp on the driver side that you have to fish through with an extension to tighten. if that all looks good, I want you to take a look on the passenger side front of the valve cover and you will see a small plastic hose that goes forward into the plastic ductwork. Where that hose attaches to the plastic duct the nipple breaks off and then you get a vacuum leak. I would be very surprised if that was not your problem. If that plastic nipple has broken off, go to the hardware store and get a threaded 1/2 inch Barb that you can put a half inch hose onto, heat it up, and twisted into where the plastic piece broke on and then install the hose. like this, but 1/2"

Okay. I'll play. You CAN go "cheap". I breed the little fuckers by the hundreds. But essential is a subjective word in this discus world. Give me a minute and i'll post what I think is essential.

For me: The essentials are


1. THE WATER (keep it clean for discus if you want them to grow)

The water in the aquarium has to be initially ideal. For me, this means using RO water. Super soft which the fish love and less than 200 microsiemens on my EC/TDS meter. You can definitely go cheaper, but I own this to see how my RO is doing and to see the water hardness. Discus like less than 200 microsiemens from my experience.

Despite what most people will tell you about RO's, I've had pretty great experience with one I bought off of craigslist. The most important piece is the membrane, which you can always replace. I think I paid 45 for the 5 stage one I have and 30 for the membrane AFTER year of having it just because I wanted to changed it. I filled 2 of the 3 first stages with Catalytic activated carbon that I bought in bulk. I thought I'd need to replace it every 3-6 months with how often I do water changes, but its been trucking along about a year now with the initial fill. Again, you should check your own refuse water for chlorine periodically to make sure your membrane isn't getting damaged when your carbon does eventually get old and ineffective.

I have a big 30 gallon skinny trash can with the filtrate from the RO emptying into it through a float valve.. When the thing gets full the RO is shut off. You also want to think about getting a pump inside the trash can to send the cleaned water to the aquariums easily through a hose or something. The extra "waste" water is carbon filtered but not membrane filtered, so its very alkaline. I often will add some of this water back into the aquarium via gallon bucks if I think the alkalinity is off or the TDS is too low. I shoot for 150ish but never more than 200. Eggs get more fertilized if they are laided in low TDS water.


2.SUMP AND THE BIOFILTER (Its like the liver of your system)
Do not go with HOB or canister filters. Invariably you will forget to change the carbon or clean the canister and it will go to crap suddenly.
You could go with expensive acrylic wet/dry systems that are prebuilt, but my FAVORITE and never ever leaked or over filled sump has been a 25lbs dog food container I got from the container store. It fits perfectly under my aquarium in the cabinet. That is only good for holding your water though.

You still need a place for your bacteria to grow inside of this container. I used bioballs, but i've experimented with lava rocks and other more naturally available media. Bioballs are easiest to move around or clean. I put them inside of little baskets that I ziptied together. The top basket is filled with filter floss (the crap some pillows get stuffed with) to capture floating debris. They are relatively small to my trash can sump so that I could easily see the pump at the bottom of my sump or move them around. This setup with aerate your water. You can get an airpump for emergencies, but you don't really need it. On the other hand you might want to enclose it a little bit since water likes to evaporate.



3. WATER FLOW PUMP and VEINS

A good pump on the floor of my sump. I can't remember if I used the 4000 or the 5000. Either way that brand is pretty quiet and dependable IF YOU DON'T run the water level low in the sump or suddenly have a leak somewhere else. Its simple. Just pump the water from the sump into the aquarium. Try not to have any right angles so you don't slow the flow.

You have to read up on wet/dry filters to see if you want the learning curve headache of dealing with routing water flows. What you want essentially is a system where the water will drain out of the aquarium as fast or a little slower than it comes into the aquarium, but not so fast that you end up with a sucking sound in your drain pipe that will drive you mad.
OUT
My latest SUPER CHEAP "overflow" has been a series of PVC pipes shaped into U's fitted with an aqualifter pump. I got the instructions from here essentially while modifying it to fit my needs. These little pumps are cool because if I loose power or siphon in my overflow, they will pump out the air and keep on pumping water without breaking down. Very useful little discovery. Never again have I had to jump start my siphon do it manually. I put a strainer over the pvc pipe in the aquarium just to keep it from catching any fish. Just lead the water into floss to catch junk.

As to how much water flow, I've seen breeders with as low a 2 turn overs per hour to as high as 5 or 7. Just experiment with your setup.

EXTRAS
IF you change your water often and keep it out of strong light for a while the bacteria will adapt to eating organic waste. IF you don't want to do that or ever worry about it, you can get a UV sterilizer from ebay and also a nice set of lights. I buy mine from topdogsellers, BUT you should know that my UV sterilizer started leaking about 6 months in. I had to place it into that big sump I mentioned earlier to keep it from leaking on the floor. Still works like a champ despite its leak. Its submersible so whatevs.

I keep a bare aquarium spare the place to lay eggs because its easier to drain the aquarium that way of crap. You can go to homedepot and buy a 30 foot acrylic tube and fit a pvc pipe into it to suck up the bottom of the aquarium out into your yard or bath tub. I'm sure you will figure it out.

You might not NEED a water heater depending on where you live, but I highly recommend it. Discus are often imported and hence come from places with parasites. Water temperature can help kill quite a few of these while boosting fish growth and encouraging good immune responses. Salt ( IN LESS THAN 200 microsiemens) can also help. Eventually you will learn all about prazi and other meds like Clout. I recommend this water heater since it won't shatter if you make any sudden changes to water temperature which you should strive to never to but may at some point need to .

Food can be made from beef heart and if you can train your fish to accept it your pocket book will thank you. Water changes will be important if you go this route as it can messy up quite a bit. If you are filthy rich feed them blackworms from california. Look it up. They are clean of parasites and don't die and dirty up your water. Fish LOVE them.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Plumber here, buy [this pump] (http://smile.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936374&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller+sump+pump) . They are very tough and last a long time. If your old on edoes not have a check valve, buy this one to go with your new sump pump.

The biggest contributor to the amount of foam is the flow rate out of the tap. To reduce the foam, reduce the flow rate. You're using 11 PSI with a 5 ft line, which sounds like it would pour really fast.

Option 1: Lower pressure for serving

Bleed pressure from keg and set regulator to 2-5 PSI when serving. Re-pressurize when not serving so the beer doesn't go flat.

Pros: No extra equipment required.

Cons: Incredibly wasteful in terms of CO2. Using this method, I blasted through roughly a third of a 5# tank dispensing just one keg.

Option 2: Adjust beer line length

Make the line length longer according to the style of beer, to compensate for high pressure in the keg. This has to do with fluid dynamics. There is info available on this if you search; I remember seeing posts on this a few weeks ago.

Pros: simple, effective, and inexpensive

Cons: Requires a lot of cutting and re-clamping of beer lines for each different style of beer; no way of doing fine tuning of flow rate for more or less head; requires keeping a bigger inventory of tubing for different styles.

Option 3: Flow control

Put something in your draft system that allows you to adjust the flow rate without attaching/reattaching anything.

Pros: easy to control, less hassle/mess. Just turn a dial and get the flow rate exactly what you want it to be, to perform on-the-spot adjustments for the perfect pour.

Cons: more expensive, although I've seen plastic inline flow controllers like this $2.50 USD one

I have the Perlick 650SS tap on my kegerator and it works like a charm. If you're using a picnic tap or want to use a tap without built-in flow control, and you want something nice, you can get an inline flow control compensator like the one made by CM Becker, or (less expensive but still solid) make one using a stainless steel NPT ball valve and two hose barbs (clamps and plumber's tape not included).

Edit: info/links

Oh grow thou art sick.

Dude you could get a ght adapter and a blumat pressure reducer and have automated drip irrigation out of that showerhead.

That's why I'd get one of these

https://www.amazon.com/BACOENG-Stainless-Motorized-Control-Electrical/dp/B00PVR7P6O/

Automatically shuts off if you lose power.

You're may be paying many times more sourcing "locally" if you can't wait until chinese new year is over next month. On amazon anything that is 'prime' should be warehoused stateside


Search for water solenoid example
Compatible diameter tube for above example
and any relay board example.

Moisture sensors are literality just wires shoved into the soil. But beware of electrolyses degrading the metal, you can used galvanized nails or even pencil lead (carbon rods) instead

You shouldn't need a pump unless using a reservoir, but just in case 12V water pump example--note this has a bigger diameter hose connector you may be able to just shove a 1/4" inside and glue around for seal but look around at the different search results for matching hose diameters all around or possible legit adaptors


And don't forget the 12V power adaptor capable of powerint all that. ~2+A should be fine example

Monoprice uses really cheap non-standard parts, sorry yours broke. Mine did the same thing a couple weeks ago.

What you really should do is buy this metal extruder assembly for $7, as the 3D printed ones I tried just didn't work well, and I tried several.

You'll also need these new connectors, they're cheap and you can also replace the crappy one on the other end of the Bowden tube while you're at it.

After removing the grub screw on the old extruder gear, use some heat, like a heat gun or a hair dryer, to help you pull off the old extruder feeding gear. Trust me, it's worth it. This new one is million times better. No skipping, no jams, no underextrusion. I suffered with that problem for ever! It all came down to cheap parts.

You should re-callibrate your e-steps, as it's honestly super easy. I think 100 was the number I used. The default is 92, so if you don't want to it won't be that far off.

Edit: /u/Karzdan, this will 100% fix your issue. My print quality really improved, this small upgrade made a huge, huge difference for me. This new spring is much stronger, and the new teeth really grip the filament.

I have been using the Fieldpiece probes connected with the measure quick app. The range on the FP probes is about 200 ft. I hear the gen 2 Testo probes have much better range as well. The app will give you complete diagnostic of the system and a really nice PDF printout of the job when you're done. A lot of customers love when you can say "this is what I see your system doing" and then you can show them live readings and how far off target their system.

As far as charging get one of these. https://www.trutechtools.com/CTEE14

Get some hoses with ball valves for charging and you're good to go.

I also use a pair of these for systems that don't have much space by the ports.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_XgcvDbAAFS20P

​

This is how another guys does it for a visual.

https://youtu.be/TrW7xpGMdFo

This is a pretty common item. You will have an easier time finding an adjustable pressure relief valve than a set 3 psi, but even that isn't too uncommon.

I found this one on Amazon

Looks awesome. I set up an automatic daily water-changer in mine. I let it drain thru a hose-timer connected near the bottom thru a standard garden hose for 2 hours, and I keep a float valve on a second hose-timer to fill it back up.

​

tl;dr

hose timer (1 to drain and 1 to fill): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M676JAS/

float valve: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I

you'll need 2 hoses as well. the timer on the drain end gets clogged sometimes but thats the best i could come up with so far

I use this.

I had to dial it in a bit but using a decent gauge it's not too difficult. When I have it turned to 60PSI it'll hold 20 perfectly, I have a bunch of stuff noted at home from my ~5mins of testing it took to dial it in.

It has held (and allowed to build) pressure on my Flanders Red for a couple months now awesomely.

No need to go insane on pricepoint for something like this, but if you want the kind of precision you got without having to trial and error shit, then go nuts.

I've shared this here before and it's worth mentioning here too.

I take lawn/garden pressure sprayer and replace the end with a sink sprayer. You'll also need a fitting to connect them which is likely this but you can't know for sure until you have the garden sprayer in hand. This gives me very simple, one handed control over a relatively low flow water sprayer that's designed for rinsing soap off of things.

It's simple, cheap, it doesn't take any electricity and works really well. I can take a full shower including shampoo and conditioning long hair with less than a gallon of water.

OP, I found out what you were looking for is called a spunding valve. It's essentially used to brew beer under a fixed pressure. I found this on amazon , how you'd fix that to a lid is beyond me tho.

​

Edit : Also to note: mason jars cannot hold pressure anyhow, you'd have to bottle your kombucha first and fix on the valve to the bottle cap/cork and set it fro like 30-40 psi beyond which the bottle will explode anyway.

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
   
2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
   
3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
   
4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
   
5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).
   
   There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
   
   

• Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  
• 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  
• Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  
• A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  
• An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  
• A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  
• Small bags (for silica beads),
  
• PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  
• Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  
• SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  
• Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  
• Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  
• E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  
• Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  
• Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  
• And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...
  
  Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
  
  ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!

What kind of pump is it? I had a 5 year old big box store tether pump that would wake the whole house. Upgraded to a Zoeller m53 which cost me $125 on Amazon and is whisper quite. Don't forget to add in a check valve, which it doesn't look like yours has.

These are what I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452683726&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller

http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Check-Valve-Inch/dp/B0009WD1L4/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41tvTOSrD7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1DQ4X69H0CMEEQG9T9PN

ball valve with a 45* angle on it so the cans dump and also an adapter to fit the 1/4" NPT of the T and the 1/4" flare thread from the ball valve.

Can tapper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XT7NY/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(remove the schrader valve on the side you use and also the ball in the inside as well.)

Ball valves: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014JC9HI/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(I had to file down the end of the ballvalve where the adapter fits on because at first it was only held on by one thread. Making the ball valve shorter allowed it to fit inside the adapter deeper and make contact with more threads)

Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056ODEP8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(take a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the unnecessary internals that would reduce the flow rate.)

I got the T splitter from ebay. I found one with male 1/4" NPT on the bottom and female 1/4" NPT on each side.

If you do make a spunding valve I recommend this pressure relief valve. I bought a pre-built spunding valve off of homebrewing.org and the pressure relief valve it came with sucked. I saw this on brulosophy I believe and swapped it out. My current fermentation is the first I've used the new one, but so far it is MUCH better.

Shower sprays can work, but you'll occasionally run into issues like this where it doesn't completely wash out.

You should look into getting a small pressure washer, and a garden hose adapter for your shower arm. When I converted a spare bathroom to my washout station, I got one of these, and one of these, and hooked up my pressure washer to it, while still being able to attach the shower head.

For what it's worth, here's how I solved the small tank problem:

https://i.imgur.com/ESjNxmv.png

I bought a check valve from amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B010JAQZK4

How this works: normally, the tank is full of water. That water goes through the finishing filter and to my fridge, icemaker, and faucet upstairs. When I open the valve shown in my picture there, RO water starts to flow into my kettle. It runs (with the same system you have), at about 1.5-2 gallons/hour. Because of the check valve, the tank stays full, and the fridge, icemaker, and faucet upstairs CONTINUE to have a full supply of water while my kettle fills. Unless I use 3 gallons of water from the fridge/faucet upstairs while the kettle is filling, (I don't use water that fast), my wife and kids never notice the service interruption. Finally, I use a float valve, mounted to a stick and clamped to the side of the kettle, to ensure I don't overflow. This way I can fill at 1.5 gal/hr over night.

Now - the water in the kettle doesn't go through the finishing filter, but all that filter is meant to do is remove off flavors from the water having sat in the tank. Since the kettle water never hits the tank, no worries. It tastes perfect, and measures nice and low on TDS, (in fact, my brewing water has lower TDS than my tank water, because the tank water suffers from TDS creep)

I suggest this Gates Fuel Line Hose instead. It's top quality reinforced hose. I also suggest these hose clamps. That petcock seems OK. It should be replaced because it will likely go out while you own it, and this might be why the scooter stopped running suddenly.

I believe you need a PC4-M6 PTFE tube connector.

$10 12V Solenoid valves from amazon. These do the job and it would cost you $640. http://www.amazon.com/12V-Solenoid-Valve-3-4/dp/B007R9U9BM

Super easy, need just a screwdriver to remove the old one. Its the thing mounted a bit higher in the PVC pipe. Get one that matches the size of the pipe. Here is one as an example.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Plastic-Check-Valve/dp/B0009WD1L4

Something like this:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71eIBr+ziPL._SL256_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I

Couple of things come to mind, this is one of them: https://redd.it/6p3f85

If you truly want just a valve this should work for you: https://smile.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-Closed/dp/B007N0J98E/

You'll need a few fittings to make it work with the hose, but that should be pretty minor.

http://www.brandtech.com/articles.asp?artid=13

get a valve.

Honestly... I went with a more expensive oil less vacuum pump. Those things are dirty. You need to be careful about potentially contaminating your brew with the oil spewing out of the pump.

If you're going to go this route I would recommend rigging up some sort of glove box to do the vacuuming in (make sure it's sealed from the exhaust of the pump... aka caulk some joints for the hoses to connect to - aka seal something like this (I didn't check the pipe sizes of any of this shit so figure that out) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SAO7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_lmIrub1RDNX7Y into this: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Glove-Box/

here's a good video to illustrate what I'm talking about with the valve (you need a 3 way splitter to allow air into the vacuum line - the top example)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZe61UyL0lM

You can also turn it off/on and there's relay circuits for that (but they're more expensive). Honestly you should be ok with a valve I believe. Technically you should need more pressure as it filters as the filter gets more jammed up. So you wont be in a situation where it overloads it when you aren't paying attention (tho you need to watch it).

I'm not joking about the glove box. There's a reason they recommend oil less vacuum pumps for lab work (and they aren't cheap).

> stainless steel 316 Tee

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LSSLE0/ref=biss_dp_t_asn -----

>stainless steel 316 nipple 1/4 ----------
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y18C56/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ----

>ball vales
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mini-Ball-Valve/dp/B006VE3BF0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QATKNJ8JPYS71CX5ZPG

>can tap
http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417119173&sr=8-2&keywords=can+tapper

What is you plan for a mash tun? I went with a 10g Home Depot cooler and something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Weldless-Stainless-Bulkhead-Nipple/dp/B00JHMRH2Q

This is the cooler: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-40-qt-Orange-Water-Cooler-FG1610HDORAN/202260809

You’ll also need a screen or false bottom. I think the screen is a ver economical option https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC

Here's my nice stainless 1/2" setup. I had a brass 3/8" setup but it's slow and I was paranoid of lead leaching out of it.

Spigot + bulkhead

1/2" barb

Bazooka screen

Silicone tubing

You might forego the bazooka screen and just use a brew bag like https://www.brewinabag.com/. Or perhaps a false bottom if you have some extra cash to burn. The 12" bazooka screens don't fit, so you have to be a little careful with stuck sparges if you get this 6".

BTW I'm using the 10 gallon cylindrical cooler, not the rectangular kind.

Never heard of it. But here's the parts to do that.
Carbonation cap with fittings.
Mini CO2 regulator with adapter
Co2 Tank
Tubing
Hose clamps.

I think solenoid valve is indeed the way to go.

You could hook up something like this Amazon link to a relay and a 12v power supply. I guess that particular one gets hot if you power the solenoid continuously for hours at a time, so it might not be the best for you project.

When you replace it you really need to add one of these

here

So what I would do is, remove that union, connect the check valve and PVC down to the pump (I'd drop in one in the sump). You'll need a threaded adapter on the pvc to the pump and any 45 or elbow as needed.

Hey mahm0udin

I use the 5 gal version now, but I think the 10 Gal would be perfect for both methods because you get a healthy grain bed for filtering when brewing big or small.

You will want to install a Weldless ball valve with a Nipple on the inside of the mash tun.

You will also want one of these false bottoms and a piece of silicon pipe to join it to the internal ball valve nipple

Woo, that was a lot of links :) This is my setup and it works a treat :)

As u/agoomba said you can just cut off and splice but if you don’t want to as u/viruswithshoes said it is a Phoenix connector https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GWF65WY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524396465&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=phoenix+connector+2+pin&dpPl=1&dpID=41o6TeK93bL&ref=plSrch

I ferment in 10 gallon cornies and I just built myself a spunding valve to use as a test. Wasn't that hard the main bit is the valve itself, which I got off Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FYI58S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQUTBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then some fiddly bits to go from the Tee to the QD for the keg.

Funny this comes out the day all the parts for my spund build arrive. Good stuff! Got the parts in question from the chi company, valve and gauge off amazon.

spunding valve

1/4” NPT male x 1/4” JIC female

Nylon Flare Fitting Washers (1/4”)

Stainless Tee 1/4” x 1/4” x 1/4” NPT

Quick Disconnect - gas MFL

Pressure Relief Valve Adjustable Pressure 0-100psi 1/4” NPT

Pressure Gauge 60psi 1/4” NPT

I have/had the maker select. I fought it about ever other print I did on it until it finally became more expensive to troubleshoot than buy a new printer. Thats when I got the ender 3. I honestly think the ender 3 prints way better than the maker select ever did for me. Dont get me wrong the maker select was a good printer when it printed but I think the ender 3 outperforms it.

Yes the whole myth around resin being so expensive I think stems from a couple years ago when it was waaayyy more expensive and the only players in the game were selling $3000 printers. It has come way down and just realize every single time someone say that it is 10x more than FDM they are either misinformed, lying, or an idiot lol. I think the fact that you have to but it $60-$150 at a time instead of $17 (what a cheap roll of filament costs) really confuses some people. I have done the calculations though since I print for commissions and my resin volume per mini is usually between 4ml to 7ml. Resin can be bought all day for $0.08 per ml. I love it when people try to argue with me on it though :)

[Here are the connectors I bought](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQYJ9T6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) you probably could find a smaller pack but this is the size you need. The connecter on the hotend side is a different size, but I didnt have any problems with that one so I only replaced the one on the extruder.

Here is the valve I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9U9BM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I double checked and the direction is correct, still same issue. Is it possible that the pressure from the tap is too high?

This might be the ticket, because with that type of tubing, I think you want quick connects. I'm not sure about the pressure rating, or if it would be easy to connect to an Arduino.

8gal should be plenty for a kettle. I bought my stainless steel kettle from AIH and I believe they start at 69 with 1 spout. You will need to buy the ball valve and barb fitting but those can be around $15-$20 on amazon. I have another kettle that s aluminum with a spout that was dirt cheap on amazon. They go on sale sometimes for $40ish for 8-10gal, I dont remember which.

The darkstar burner from northern brewer is $a reasonable $50. If you wanted to get something cheaper you would need to scour craigslist.

I am pretty new to brewing still but I stayed away from glass fermenters just because of all the horror photos I have seen on here and HBT. I have 3 plastic fermenters but I haven't yet had 2 going at the same time. If you are in NorCal I would gladly give donate one to you.

As for the rest of the smaller stuff, I would try and find a LHBS. Prices shouldn't vary that much from online. Or you could spring for a kit from nothern brewer that should come with everything.

I have yet to keg so no info on that, but I like bottling. It makes it easier to share with friends and is more portable.

I use these on my system. Silicone caulk to seal it, and a clamp to ensure it all gets held in place!

Clamps -Possible that you may vary in the size you need.

Silicone

Guaranteed air tight! And they are items almost any store carries!

This seems like a good idea: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466286871&sr=8-1&keywords=water+tank+float+valve

try a few of these
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Brand-B20HS-Stainless-Clamp/dp/B007Q4YD38/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1410393896&sr=8-7&keywords=hose+clamp they are 4 to 8 dollars (depending on the size) each but they are reusable so when you get done with them you can unscrew them and use them on a later project

or just go to http://www.amazonsupply.com/ and search for pipe/tube/cylindrical clamp and see what amazon has to offer

I have done very similar stuff! Ill take some pictures for you to explain how it all works.


I was doing some thinking about your potential setup and i realized that if that unit's tank is plumbed up to drain in to a 5gallon bucked, there's nothing to prevent the bucket from overflowing. I have a solution for that though! all it takes is for the drain pipe to run through a float valve to the bucket.
this is the float valve, which is 8$
https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=float+valve&qid=1565294395&s=gateway&sr=8-6
what that would do is stop the flow of water in to the bucket so it doesn't overflow. The hose will then start to fill up until it backflows into the unit's reservoir, and because the hole you drilled is below the max fill line, the unit will fill up and then shut off, at which point you will have to dump the bucket and the units reservoir, but should increase your capacity by about 3-4 gallons, depending on how high up the bucket you put the float valve.


I know it all sounds a little complicated but its really quite simple once you understand the parts.
check out this awesome video explaining the part i just talked about. Imagine his bin is your bucket(you could also use a tote bin like that) and imagine that blue tube is connected to your unit's tank.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cm-DIHR6uVA

Timer and pump or [valve] (http://www.amazon.com/12V-Solenoid-Valve-3-4/dp/B007R9U9BM/).

One thing I would say that might help is to move the check valves lower. They should be very close to the pump itself. Yours are so high that a lot of the water that gets pumped up comes right back into the sump. So they work more and the water level stays higher.

Make sure they are working when you move them. If not or suspect get a Zoeller 30-0181
http://smile.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Plastic-Check-Valve/dp/B0009WD1L4

Yes I think using this type of board would make it easy for me wire multiple outlets together.


These are the switches that I will be using.

Do you think they will work? I'm still trying to wrap my head around how the switches will be wired into that PCB board. I kinda got the idea, but its still a bit hazy. I have a biology background lol, but been messing with electronics since younger days.

[This is the solenoid I will be using] (http://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Solenoid-Connect-normally-Closed/dp/B016MP1HX0)

I had the same issue, lost track of how many times I flooded my grow space forgetting the water barrel. Ive been using this one in my barrels for years now with 0 issues. Easily handles home water pressure. Use it with a hose to 1/4" adapter and good to go for cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA252-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAX4W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

You'll need the full power of an electricl outlet to do this. At least 1500 watts or 10-12amps. So you don't have power?

You can use a 12v pump and a solar panel. Look at Harbor Freight 12v pump and look for Harbor Freight 60w solar panel.
If you don't have power, you'll need to pump water up and use gravity feed to get pressure. A rain barrel about 30ft higher then where you want water should give you enough water pressure. This a float valve helps: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465850762&sr=8-1&keywords=float+valve

There's also adapters you can use for connecting a hose to your shower head. I was going to run a hose in from an outside spigot but your post inspired me to look into it more. Thanks!

Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose Fitting, Connector, 3/4" Male Hose ID x 1/2" Female Pipe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPAPM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dhQoDbT0A5G3M

I just finished up a fruit beer a couple weeks ago. To filter out the particles I used an aquarium micron bag and clamped it onto the end of the hose with one of these. All in all, it worked out pretty well.

Yellow Jacket 93842 Mini Ball Valve (3 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gHaIDb22XPC3K

He’s talking about these. When I got my gauge set up I got theses with the built in valves.

Can’t help you with programming but you could eliminate the pump and use gravity feed and a valve like this
https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Solenoid-Connect-normally-Closed/dp/B016MP1HX0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_3/140-4689437-7402416?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B016MP1HX0&pd_rd_r=7e732eb6-69bd-4334-8901-5ebb49bc7e82&pd_rd_w=UV8Al&pd_rd_wg=BJTUS&pf_rd_p=0bda97b1-9615-4960-b748-b906a3521083&pf_rd_r=0FX3BC956PNFJ3R82N43&psc=1&refRID=0FX3BC956PNFJ3R82N43

Would this work? It's rated to 30psi and just needs to be capped on the male end.

http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Valve-10-400-Series-Pressure/dp/B008835NQC/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1412969259&sr=8-12&keywords=pressure+valve

This one is adjustable, but needs to be adapted to 3/4".

http://www.amazon.com/Control-Devices-Series-Pressure-Adjustable/dp/B007GDY3CU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412969259&sr=8-1&keywords=pressure+valve

Thanks! That is the 1/2 HP pump I was looking at instead of the 3/4 HP one if I decided to go with a water powered backup solution. However, I think I may go with battery backup instead.

​

This Wayne WSS30V is 1/2 HP all-in-one combo with battery backup and also has an alarm built in. I think this is what I'm leaning towards at this point. I was also looking at that Mighty Max for the battery, or this Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle Battery for 12V Sump Pump if it's okay to use (let me know what you think).

​

I ordered one of these Zoeller PVC Plastic Check Valves. Do I need two on the combo unit, or is just one okay?

​

I have this Basement Watchdog Dual Float Sump Pump Switch with Controller on my current pump and was just going to transfer it over to the new one using the metal clamp it came with.

​

Any other suggestions or information is greatly appreciated. Thanks again for all your help!

Sure, that should work. Just make sure that you clamp down all your hoses and double- and triple-check for leaks. Keep some extra hose clamps on hand. They should be super tight, but not so tight that they cut through the tubing.

Yes sir.
This is a barb valve https://www.amazon.com/FPT-BARB-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0064OJDUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498193537&sr=8-1&keywords=barb+valve+1%2F2+1%2F2

This is camlocks https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1844.htm
All it is is a quicker way of changing tubing without the need to pull a tube off your barb valve.

The great thing about the brew hardware website is they explain how to install each and every part they sell.

Would this be acceptable? http://www.amazon.com/12V-Solenoid-Valve-3-4/dp/B007R9U9BM

I ended up ordering this SS b/v. Seems like it should work with the correct nipples right? Also, how do you compress the actuator on the can tapper npt connection? Rip it out? Thanks for your help

Sorry I was on my phone before. let me see what i can find. I can't find the exact coupler I used but I might be able to find something else with some searching

ed: you're in luck, found a two step way using items available on amazon that connects to the 1/4" flare you originally tried to shove the hose directly onto. when i got my oven in, i needed it working THAT DAY, and the local hvac supply place didn't have 1/4" flare swivel couplers in stock.

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-5911-4-Inch-Female-Adapter/dp/B008E5CVKA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419741989&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+inch+female+flare+swivel

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKL6Z2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

You may also want a hose clamp or two to go with that

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Tie-33200-4-Inch-5-Stainless/dp/B006IOZ3YU/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1419742116&sr=1-1&keywords=1%2F4%22+hose+clamp

when i did it locally, i found a 1/2" Flare to 1/2" NPT swivel, and had to get some teflon tape and put a 1/2" NPT x 1/4" barb on it instead.

1/4" push in compression fittings.

I don't like the dash button idea. I do actually have those setup, but the delays involved would add uncertainty about time.

I found this solenoid, so that could work maybe, but Id have to hard a timer somehow. DIGITEN DC 12V 1/4" Inlet Feed Water Solenoid Valve Quick Connect N/C normall... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MP1HX0/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_aqIczbQ7W75MF via @amazon

thieves are creatures of opportunity. It doesn't really matter what your bike's made of. What matters is how much of a pain in effort and time you can make it to steal. So it really comes down to a simple list of things:

• Two thick cables, one or even two D-locks. Kryptonite D-locks can even come with insurance policies that, when the lock is found to be insufficient and at fault, may recoup you up to ($-american)500. Attach the D-lock directly to your frame and something big and sturdy and metal. Thread the cables through your wheels and around frame and lock them securely either to the same thing as your D-lock, or through your D-lock
  
  `the D-lock is not just a big padlock that connects the two ends of a cable. It has to be around your frame and around a secure object at the same time. Please do not make this mistake!
  
  
• Lock your bike where you can see it at all times, if possible. If not, lock it where thieves have to really expose themselves as thieves. If you can take your bike inside with you, then do it.
  
  
• You can do smaller things, such as gluing steel ball bearings (metal beads) in various screw heads.
  Or custom-ordering screws that require a pentagon-shaped screw tip to turn, that's a rare tool thieves are unlikely to have. You'll have to order the tool, of course.
  hose clamps locking down the quick-release levers of your wheel hubs.
  
  here is Hal grading people's lock jobs. Follow his advice.

https://www.amazon.com/Eowpower-Pneumatic-Straight-Fitting-Connector/dp/B01MQYJ9T6/

Are you talking about a hose clamp?

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Brand-B-HS-Stainless-Clamp/dp/B007Q4YD38

Relay Timer: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Digital-Switch-110-220V-IDT-E2RH/dp/B008KV65MS

Pressure Switch: https://www.coleparmer.com/i/dwyer-cxa-s3-water-pump-pressure-switch-nc-range-35-150-psig-2-4-10-3-bar/6806346

Pump: https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-58407-aquatec-58-flc-220-pump-with-220-psi-pressure-swich-internal-bypass-12-motor-leads-115-vac.aspx

Solenoid valve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N0J98E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They do make automatic top offs for aquariums which could be modded for this. it is meant however to control a pump from a reservoir to fill up the aquarium instead of from the tap. you could buy [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-diesel/dp/B007N0J98E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373403144&sr=8-1&keywords=water+solenoid+valve+110) and use it with a JBJ ato(one I use for my reef tank.) Or buy this if you want the diy way and hook it up accordingly. There are already cheap options so I personally would choose another project and use whats already available on the market for your hydroponic system

Best I could do was 31 cents

29!

Ok so no experience doing high volume Ejuice bottling, but had an idea for you.

First thing is use gravity, So get a container for the storage of the juice you are dispensing into the smaller bottles. Something large and that you can suspend from above. Also something that you can drill a hole into. Once you have this drill a hole towartds one edge of the bottom. Find yourself a stainless steel valve and get some stainless fittings to go from the bucket into the valve. Just screw one side into the valve and place a nut on the inside of the bucket to tighten it up to the hex part. Maybe get a longer one so you have plenty clearance on the handle. Use silicone or simiar food grade washers to seal this up. Maybe even a caulking if there is a food grade type.

At this point you have two choices. You can go straight into a barb fitting, then some flexible hose down to where your bottles will sit at. Just open the valve fill to weight close and move on. Or....

If it were me I would go into barb fitting then tubing then back into barb fitting and another valve. I would then measure this section between the valves to be the exact amount I want in each bottle. After the second valve it would go back into barb then hose for a final stretch of tubing to the fill area.

This way you would open first valve fill area to second valve, close first open second, fill bottle, close second, rinse and repeat.

Open valve 1, close valve 1, open valve 2, close valve 2, bottle filled. If you did around 3/8" to 1/2" on the tubing diameter even heavy VG should flow well just with gravity.

Once again I have never created a setup like this, but the problem intrigued me. Also just listed stainless fittings in general. I assume your doing this commercialy, and would use food grade which I googled to be 304, you may already be well aware of all of this, just thought I'd add it.

https://www.orbitonline.com/site_files/manuals/200%20Series%20valves%20chart.pdf

The minimum pressure for this valve is 15 psi. I am running my drip irrigation out of my rain barrel, with a pond pump. It doesn't make enough pressure to actuate the pilot in this valve.

I have tried the following valves, that only require 3 psi and they work. I wish there was better option that didn't require a minimum presure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016MP1HX0

Ooo didn't know no one was able to find something less than 38 cents!

!Here's one](http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B008HQ5N88/ref=nosim/krisssoccersi-20/)!

And I had a nice long nap today after I got off work! lol

If anyone is interested... I did experiment with one and it worked rather well for the test.

This is the valve I used

http://www.amazon.com/ss/customer-reviews/B0077RAX4W/ref=?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

I used this, and added another air tank the same size to it, to ensure that the water in the tank would have enough pressure to close the valve all the way. I've seen some people that used an electronic version that just tripped closed when the water hit a certain level.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007N0J98E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You can use a valve like that and control with a wireless relay such as a sonoff basic or a Z-wave switch.

just FYI - mine got to about 15 days printing and the power plug on the melzi board blew out. It didn't just melt the plug, it melted the board as well and popped the pin out in a manner that a new pin couldn't be soldered back in. 1 month downtime waiting for a new board from China sucked (warranty repair). Lesson learned - if you smell any new burning plastic smell shut it down immediately. Even if your 3/4 into a 15hr print like mine was :). Buy yourself a bag of these. Replace it in about 15 minutes like I had to when the 2nd one went out about 48 hrs printing time later.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWF65WY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

You could use a pretty standard mechanical float valve to refill water reservoirs. Something along these lines

Here's where I got my connectors: Amazon You can probably find them cheaper since these also came with the terminals.

Here's the drivers compared with the originals.
http://i.imgur.com/bGsuepL.jpg

Thanks for the reply. i have gone to almost every hardware store looking for a tee like that. I might have to suck it up and order online. If I threaded the inner diameter of the flange would a threaded male pvc adapter work? like http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008HQ5N88/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1383141636&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

What if you did this:

Fermenting keg > pressure relief valve (set to say 22psi for spunding purposes at room temperature) > oversized tubing that could fit over the pressure relief valve > check valve > co2 keg > spunding valve (like 120-130psi).

Then you could use the co2 keg as a co2 tank.

Pressure relief valve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=as_at/?imprToken=9h1Z-UNJjbEBc2vuAiG75A&slotNum=0&ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007GDY3CU&linkCode=w61&tag=hombrefin-20&linkId=CNQ6I4IKSFEAO43T

This is basically what I'm referring to.

You know, like this.