Best fluid sealers according to redditors

We found 110 Reddit comments discussing the best fluid sealers. We ranked the 32 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Gasket sealers
Pipe sealers
Radiator sealers
Silicone sealers
Thread lock sealers

Top Reddit comments about Fluid Sealers:

u/Seabass18 · 8 pointsr/guns

I am a recent convert with a 9" SBR and 762 SDN6, I'll throw my hat in for super versatile esp if you are going to get a can like you said you are planning to.

Suppressed subsonic is much lighter recoiling than 223, you're talking about muzzle energy equivalent to 45 acp and the suppressor acts a as super quiet, very efficient muzzle break. My only complaint would be gas in the face via charging handle however I just spent 6$ on Black Silicone RTVand made a homemade gasbuster charging handle. I've yet to take it the range since but it should cut back on or eliminate gas blowback to the face.

300 Blk can be hard to come by locally but is readily available on the internet and once you have brass is easily reloadable.

u/Amoney8612 · 5 pointsr/phoenix

A couple dabs of RTV Silicone Sealant should work. Should be able to remove most of the residue with an exacto knife/box cutter blade when you when you want to take it off..just don't try to yank the bobblehead off, or dig into the dash with the blade. Keep it flat, work it back and forth. Nail polish remover may help with the residue. Or I'm sure there's some type of caulk removal product out there.

u/Mechanical_Owl · 4 pointsr/fixit

Get some Loctite red:

(use blue if you want a less permanent fix)

u/ashington · 3 pointsr/LandRover

Buy a bottle of this stuff. I usually don't buy into these kind of products but it works...I actually just fixed a super leaky box on one of the Defenders in my shop last week with it. It's an additive that causes the seals to swell up slightly..the output seal is typically the culprit so this could solve it.

u/Yamarel · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

No kidding? Man, that's a nice surprise.

Sorry, I thought you were saying "seal the crank pulse generator part with hondabond" not the entire cover lol.
Any guess as to how much i will need? Like will the 1.9fl oz be enough or should I get this off brand liquid gasket or are they basically the same thing?

Will I need a razorblade to remove the existing seal?

Sorry for the barrage of questions but thank you so much for the help already.

u/Macgyver452 · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

A container like this lasts me over a year and I work on cars nearly every weekend.

u/illregal · 3 pointsr/subaru

I would not use that ebay kit unless you want to do them a second time.
I would use oem, at the very least felpro.
Don't forget some hondabond.
Where to put the hondabond... Do not use between the gasket and the valve cover itself. Nothing goes in there. This is only for the gasket to head connection. Make sure its good n clean/scraped and dry before starting the reinstall. If the half moons are in there pretty good, and don't appear to be leaking. Just leave them. I use a little more bond across them than what the picture shows.

u/Lobster70 · 2 pointsr/Miata

Agree. Some purists will say to only get the gasket from Mazda. But considering the low price and effort of replacing the valve cover gasket, a Fel-Pro from Amazon should be just fine. You also need some silicone gasket goop for six potential leak spots. One tube should last practically forever.

It is and easy job, but you must be careful to not over tighten the bolts into your aluminum head. Torque to 43 - 78 inch-lbs. Also, tightening the bolts in the order recommended by Mazda will help avoid leaks. Use this guide:

u/Face999 · 2 pointsr/DIY

Silicone, once set up. The proper ones should say food safe or NSF approved. Careful with the ones that are mildew resistant

Here - example

u/MycTyson · 2 pointsr/MushroomGrowers

>Silicone: I see clear silicone used a lot. Any recommendations?

Get the RTV high temp - I use clear 100% Silicone from GE available at Wal-Mart and it fails after only a few uses, most auto stores will have the RTV high temp silicone.

$5.30 on Amazon! Gotta love Amazon Prime, very worth it for the small purchases that show up in 2 days.

>Jars: You are going to want a supply of Quart jars. Extra lids eventually too. Buy them anyplace.

I'd specify wide mouth for cakes, regular mouth for spawn. I use wide mouth exclusively, just as a personal preference. I can make cakes of any size, or spawn for that matter!

>Ty-vex: Get them from the post office for free.

Just a silly thing, 'Tyvek' as opposed to 'Tvvex'. It's this one when you go to the post office.

>Petri Dishes: (glass plastic?)

You'd think glass, but no. I can't justify the cost vs the amount of petri dishes I need to work with. I prefer the '4 section' petri dishes for expanding cultures or when receiving a new culture. That way you can quickly expand it if it's clean or isolate away from contaminants on the same dish, instead of using multiple. For presentation, I prefer the dishes that /u/SmellyTongues sends me from Cell Treat. Wow, they're beautiful! They stack very nicely, and seal much better than the cheap 4 section ones I've bought off of Amazon.

>Bags for Pressure cooker?

What? Are you referring to filtered patch bags for growing?

>masks, gloves

I'll be doing a write up soon about sterile operating procedure which I'll get shortened to SOP in context of this hobby, which should encompass the basics. Good, solid gloves are a must, you're working with seemingly dull jar lids, but they'll slice right through gloves. Get some good ones, or you'll end up owning several pairs with slices in them rendering them effectively useless IMO.

For masks, I've tried the free ones you get from the hospital and compared to the expensive painters dusk masks of the same build but much better quality. I used my electronic cigarette to take in a mouthful of vapor - covered my mouth snugly with each mask (one at a time) and exhaled. The results were easily apparent as the one I paid for only allowed a small amount of vapor out through my chin whereas the other was expelling vapor out the entire perimeter of the mask. I do have a gas mask, but I've not found a problem using my dust masks repeatedly over and over.

>anything else?

Might be able to include this in the dehydrator section, but 'Dririte'/'Damprid' or any similar product would be a good idea. Here's a link to amazon.

I personally use silica packets for storage, you could make your own with these or build a simple decanter using a bowl with a lid, a rack to elevate the fruits above the crystals in the bowl, and 24 hours.

u/shadaloo · 2 pointsr/FZ07

Hmm, okay. This is what I purchased, exhaust manifolds is one of the product applications. Should be okay, right?

u/awyeahmuffins · 2 pointsr/buildapc

For re-lidding? I used this.

u/Search11 · 2 pointsr/intel

Valid concerns but trust me it’s a breeze to do. Given how hot your CPU gets you will benefit from a proper delid. Granted though you are still within safe temps. The temps are highish but they aren’t abnormal compared to most others. Higher temps do lessen the life of the CPU but we are talking a very small time span compared to the market life of the chip. I’d say you and 99% of all PC builders will have build a second or even third computer before silicone degradation even reaches minimal levels. If that makes sense. Yeah high temps kill it but it’s like saying the three cigarettes you smoked in high school took two minutes off your life when you live to be a hundred anyway. Analogy might be to the extreme but I wouldn’t worry about it.

With that said here’s some links that will help you.

Delid tool and re attachment tool:

Plastic razor blades to remove stock glue (what you mentioned not knowing what to do with, yes remove it the easiest way I’ve done it was using these and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol):

Silicone “glue” for IHS re attachment. To be honest the very first delid I did was a 3570k using wood a vice and a hammer and I didn’t reglue it. It’s still alive too. I would personally just use a very small amount on the four corners. Just enough to stick. You are correct in your concern about the stock glue causing the IHS to not make perfect contact with the die. Remove the stock crap and use minimal amount of this and it will be a non concern:

Lastly, your liquid metal for the die to IHS and your TIM for the IHS to Kraken. You can use any but it’s probably safe to say Grizzly is currently the go to stuff:

All in all it’s easy and it’s worth it. If you have any questions whatsoever message me or reply here. There are some good videos of walkthroughs (I think one really good one is on rockitcool’s website but I’m not sure). I can find them for you but tomorrow as I’m currently in bed and using a half open eye lid to write this.

u/jvargaszabo · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Try going to an auto parts store and getting some silicone RTV, probably a small tube.

I could be totally off-base here, but that seems like it would have the desired effect. It's usually temperature resistant, and if you get it somewhere you don't want it, it usually scrapes off pretty easy. Not clothes, or hair unfortunately.

I think you're not supposed to get it on your skin. It'll dry/cure to a silicone gasket material. It's sometimes referred to as gasket maker.

u/WayeeCool · 2 pointsr/Amd

Normally you fill the gap with high temperature silicone sealant. Liquid tape usually can't handle the heat from being that close to the die.

u/SmokeShrubbery · 2 pointsr/StonerEngineering

Agreed, the little "top hat" shaped grommets are great. Might also be able to use gasket maker if nothing else fits. (

u/LuciusVarinus · 2 pointsr/cars

For some cars isn't a bit of liquid gasket required to replace a valve cover gasket in corners where the gasket might not seal as well?

u/s0rce · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

I'm not 100% clear what the part is that has failed but if its metal then try JB-weld, if its plastic then some fuel-resistant RTV sealant might work well

like this:

I've also read about Seal-all (and see another recommendation for it), its marketed as fuel proof.

u/redwoodser · 2 pointsr/DIY

If you're confident that what you see is the location of the leak, try tightening the plug. If that is impossible or tightening it fails to stop the leak, the plug must be removed and the threads of the plug must be coated with something that will seal the threaded connection. There are many products out there that provide a waterproof seal to pvc threads. This is my favorite. By far. Very user friendly. Never fails.

u/pleasuretohaveinclas · 2 pointsr/candlemaking

I use this:

Sometimes the hot wax melts the hot glue and then the wick travels which can get mighty dangerous.

u/Qlanger · 2 pointsr/CarFix

If you use silicone make sure to use a good one.

An ultra grey automotive silicone should work fine and be a color close to original car color.

You can find it at any parts store but that is what I would use.

u/ubelblatt · 2 pointsr/fixit

I would try this -

Food grade silicone caulk. Supposed to be good up to 450 degrees. Let it cure for 48 hours.

u/IlllIlIIllIlllllIIlI · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Any 7700k delid tool should be good, rockit 88 is fairly common. This is a great thread if you need info/want to ask questions on delidding The process goes as such:

  1. After delidding you'll want to clean off the thermal paste from the die, and all the black silicone around the PCB (the silicone is the main reason for thermal issues... its too thick)

  2. Buy some liquid metal which is fairly cheap. Coolaboratory liquid ultra, thermalgrizzly conductonaut are two of the common liquid metals used

  3. Applying the liquid metal is kind of tricky because you need so little. There should be NO pooling of the LM at all on the die - you do not want it to squeeze out and leak. I cant emphasize this enough - you hardly need ANY... just an extremely thin sheet covering the die. It has also been reported on overclock forums that applying liquid metal to not only the die, but to the underside of the IHS itself can be beneficial thermally. In order to do this, use masking tape to cover everything but the area that the die would contact... then put a tiny amount of LM and rub it in as much as you can, then remove the masking tape!

  4. I'd recommending relidding (rockit has a relidding tool that you can buy separately I believe, in order to line the IHS up perfectly). To relid simply buy some of your own silicone and apply a dot in each corner, keep it minimal... just enough to hold the IHS in place.

  5. After relidding, you're gonna also need thermal paste to go between the IHS and your cooler. Thermalgrizzly's Kryonaut is the best. The quality of your thermal paste honestly doesn't make much of a difference though.
u/black_pete · 2 pointsr/subaru

The passenger one is prone to leak more as it sits over the exhaust collector..
It's really not all that hard, the biggest issue is that unless you remove the timing covers, which means removing the timing belt. you have to tip the valve cover under the timing cover. Several tips:

  1. Use Threebond 1211.
  2. Be super meticulous cleaning up all the parts.
  3. Let the sealant cure at least 24 hours.
  4. Buy an offset ratcheting 10mm box wrench, you're welcome!
  5. Remove all the parts to give you good access to the valve cover.
  6. Once you have carefully placed the newly sealed valve cover on the head, stuff a towel or big rag in between the cover and the engine bay "wall", this will hold the cover in place well enough while you get the bolts in place.
  7. Remember to use a clocking pattern tightening the bolts, like you do with lug nuts..

    Mine leaked, I put in new gaskets, it leaked, I resealed it, it leaked, I had the engine rebuild, it leaked, I used Threebond. It has been a couple years now, no leaks. I sear by the stuff now. People talk about the lack of space and it's not great like on an inline 4, but it's not the worst..

    Three bond:

    The type of wrench I mean:
u/NevilleDevil · 2 pointsr/overclocking

The Yelloblade

Do you know the yelloblade? (All Shrek jokes aside).

This is the gasket maker. You do not need 3.5oz of gasket maker unless you're doing deliding projects left and right - or meant to use it for what it was actually meant for.

u/pyr0ball · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Looks like I may have miscopied it. Here it is

Looks like thingiverse was truncating the link for some reason. I used a shortener and that seemed to fix it. Thanks for pointing that out!

u/throw_away_232332 · 2 pointsr/klr650

Here's a link to the same bolt I bought: (comes in pack of 5).

It's the same type of bolt except a bit oversize, so you can re-thread the aluminum pan -- just do it slowly and be careful on the first try, perhaps even back out a few times.

I was in the same situation and found this to work. I haven't changed the oil again yet, but I'll make a point to be extra careful re-torquing next time.

One piece of advice I found was to use high temp sealant ( on the bolt at every oil change, as insurance against any lose threading. But just judging form the feel of bolt, once you rethread it seams to be a pretty tight fit; you'd have to be careless to mess it up.

Good luck.

u/fong · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

As others have stated, the timing cover itself will need a high temp, oil resistant gasket maker like red RTV.

u/87AW11 · 1 pointr/mr2

I use a seal cutter. Fairly simple to use, just use a rubber dead blow to wedge it in and then hit the side to push it around the block.

The thing to watch out for is there is a baffle installed between the oil pan and the bottom of the block, all of which is sealed with RTV (could explain why you’re seeing so much of it). Once you get it separated, the pan/baffle like to get caught up on the oil pick up tube so be carful when pulling it down.

As for the stud and nut combo rather than a bolt, that’s factory, and I’m sure there is suppose to be 2 studs.

When putting it back together, the best RTV to use would be Toyota F.I.P.G..

u/JimmJardashian · 1 pointr/guns

EZ Grip or this.

u/lay-z-1 · 1 pointr/preppers

Nothing like a test run to find out. If it fails try this instead.

u/bpodskalny · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice


As a Toyota tech we had to do this all the time.

This shit is magic. Highly recommended for your new gasket material: Genuine Toyota Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

u/johnny_depps_yorkie · 1 pointr/personalfinance

This is true. I should clarify that OP should check for these things go do it right seriously just takes a minute. if you don't see these PROBABLY don't have a blown head gasket.

but you SHOULD still take your car to a second mechanic to do a pressure test/blown head gasket check IMMEDIATELY for a second opinion/confirmation of whether you do or do not have one.

and they confirm there is one, and if it's in it's early stages, like you said....they have products like this that might fix it without having to spend thousands to tear the engine apart.

do not just go out and buy that and pour it into your engine by the way, go talk to a second mechanic. if they confirm you have one, ask them their opinions about it, etc. i just posted that link to show you that there are products to seal a head gasket leak if it's in early stage leaking, and not yet past the point of repair

my main point is that blown head gaskets can easily be mis-diagnosed, or intentionally mis-diagnosed to swindle people out of money. and if you do have one the cost of fixing it varies from $50 to "total loss, time to buy a new car" depending on the severity of the gasket leak.

u/Johny_McJonstien · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I have done probably a dozen of these. When disassembling, I have always found them sealed with silicone. I have also never had an issue with one leaking. I believe this is the stuff recommended in the service manual.

Of course, if that kit did happen to have a gasket for that location in it, I would use it.

u/Tyriddik · 1 pointr/WRX

Pro Tie 33529 SAE Size 48 Heavy Duty All Stainless Hose Clamp (Pack of 4), 2-9/16" to 3-1/2"

LEDAUT 2" x 50' Titanium Exhaust Heat Wrap Roll for Motorcycle Fiberglass Heat Shield Tape with Stainless Ties

Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3 oz. Tube

u/osirhc · 1 pointr/ar15

When you did the DIY gas buster CH did you use the red silicone? I want it to be black but I'm unsure if this is the same stuff or not:

I'm not sure, but I suppose I could tint it black later if I got the red...the black one has a slightly different name and I want to make sure it's the right/same stuff.

I'm about to check out walmart to see if they might have it for cheaper but I haven't been able to make it out yet.

u/thareaper · 1 pointr/overclocking

Here's all my PC parts:

As for the silicone I went with this

I tried to put as little silicone on as I could around the edge so it wouldn't smudge everywhere. It worked pretty well. Hopefully you'll get results like I did!

u/tfellad · 1 pointr/Honda

Will this product do the trick?

Hondabond High-Temp Silicone Liquid Gasket 1.9 fl oz

u/DeathKoil · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've been looking at the Rockit 88 for several weeks, and every time I check the website it is out of stock. How long did you have the check for stock before you were able to place an order?\

EDIT: They are back in stock!!! I checked two hours ago and there was still a message about a backorder, but they are now in stock!!

Edit2: Links for those interested:

  • Rockit 88 de-lidding tool for Haswell, Ivy Bridge, Devil's Canyon, Skylake, and Kaby Lake
  • Rockit 88 Re-lid tool for 1150/1151 sockets. This is not required but for 8 bucks I feel it's worth it.
  • Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra to use between the dye and the IHS.
  • High Temp Silicon for those who want to re-stick their IHS to the PCB. Use a very small amount to allow you to de-lid again if needed and the less you use the closer the IHS will be to the CPU dye.
  • Whatever Thermal Paste you prefer. It is recommended (but not required) to cover the four gold pins on the PCB that are covered by the IHS with either thermal paste or Silicon. This will avoid shorts if the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra "leaks" off of the dye onto the PCB, it is liquid after all. I use thermal Paste for this as it is easier to remove if needed.
u/falkentyne · 1 pointr/overclocking

RTV Silicone

However the trick to making it easy to remove and easy to -delid a second time- with just your fingers (like let's say you messed up the LM) is to apply four VERY small dabs in each corner of the IHS, when using the relid kit. Each dab should be no larger than the size of a pin-head. If you made it the size of a grain of rice, that's a bit too much. If you can't measure or haven't seen a pinhead, half a grain of rice in size would be a good estimate :) Make sure when you delid the first time, you remove all of the original black goop Intel used. Some people also recommend sanding the entire edge of the IHS until the square ring is copper colored, to make sure it's flat.

u/daemon_spooler · 1 pointr/DIY

Aviation Form-a-Gasket.

I used to work on aircraft and I have a jar of this around from over ten years ago. It does not dry up or cure. It is like a messy tar. Outside, exposed, maybe dirt or dust would eventually form a skin.

u/dd543212345 · 1 pointr/Ruckus

Not a bad idea, especially if you just go with regular M6 flange nuts, but you'd probably need to use high temp loctite.

u/Odo1969 · 1 pointr/airguns

One more tweak to the products added to the breech seal and compression chamber air transfer port:

Use Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant over the air transfer port, and use Elmer's No-Wrinkle Rubber Cement over the breech seal. This not only improves the seal just a little bit, but also keeps your thumb cleaner since you are pushing down on dried rubber cement instead of tacky gasket sealant when you load the pellets.

I'm now getting between 560 and 580 fps using 7.2 grain .177 Daisy Pointed pellets. That's about 5.2 FPE, which is not too shabby for a gun that can be found for $65.

My only problem now is that one of my two guns shoots high, even with the rear sight adjusted all the way down. This is the opposite problem that many reviewers deal with, where the sight won't go high enough, because the gun shoots low. I guess I'll try some heavier pellets in that gun and see if that brings the POI down. Not a bad problem to have though, I think.

BTW, I'm also posting stuff on the GTA Forums under the pseudonym "Whirligig." The Crosman folks suggested that I post my experiments and experiences with the Benjamin Trail Nitro-Piston air pistols there.

u/renational · 1 pointr/DIY

thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

u/cluecheck · 1 pointr/moped

It's easy lift the frame, don't remove back, just the front long bolt. Stick the front wheel in a milk crate. I can have a carb in and out pretty quickly.

Where is this airleak? I've never had a prob with an airleak at the carb on any of my hobbits...and i've owned a bunch of them.

Try this stuff: (you can get at local autostore)
from the intake of the cylinder to the intake itself, from intake to carb.\
It's also great for base gaskets too! Creates a good gas resistant seal, while not being permanent for easy removal later. Better then silicone crap that just squeezes out of the mating area.

IMO, the phva is just going to run like shit on a hobbit. The stock carb pushes the best velocity of gas/air to that cylinder on a hobbit.

Also not having an airfilter could potentially cause problems by not have any back pressure. I've always ran the stock airbox with my stock carb other wise, they would run like shit.

u/soyknee · 1 pointr/biggreenegg

Put a Rutland gasket on with permatex ultra copper rtv. You’ll never have to put another gasket on

Rutland Inc Gasket Kit Tape 7'x5/8" 95-6

Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3 oz. Tube

u/swolfe2 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

I did purchase it from a local dealer, with a clean history. When I called the repair shop attached to it, the mechanic told me that Toyota uses this stuff instead of actual gaskets on the oil pan. I think the leak is coming from above the oil pan, and dripping down on it.

u/LambdaNuC · 1 pointr/moto360

Super glue is far too brittle to work with a silicone like the loop is made of. A better option would be a silicone adhesive like this: .

The problem is that as the loop stretches the super glue would not stretch with it, causing stress and cracking in the cured super glue layer.

u/Aye_or_Nay · 1 pointr/Fixxit

Toyota makes the nicest oil sealant I've seen they use it around the valve covers on the v-6's and that stuff is both easy to work with and very durable.

Here's the part number: # 00295-00103 - Genuine Toyota Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

u/becauseMotorcycle · 1 pointr/motorcycles

A little bit of RTV will seal that back up. While this is a temporary fix, I had ridden a Ninja 500 with a torn diaphragm using this fix for thousands of miles without noticing. YMMV

u/randatola · 1 pointr/BBQ

On my Big Green Egg I used a Rutland gasket and adhered it with Permatex ultra copper. This is a popular combination in Big Green Egg land. Many use 3m Super 77 spray adhesive instead of the Permatex.

The BGE is ceramic, not metal, but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. As with sticking anything to any surface, the most important thing is that the surface is clean.

u/93sr20det · 1 pointr/ar15

This stuff is great for sealing up the gas key.

u/About5percent · 1 pointr/Cartalk

This rtv is what we use on high pressure glycol lines in injection blow molding machines. It works.

u/TaintedSquirrel · 1 pointr/intel

I'm in the same boat. I dug around on the Overclocking subreddit and the overwhelming majority say to not re-seal. You might get better temps w/o sealant since the IHS and die will sit closer. If you plan on re-selling the CPU eventually you will need to use sealant.

I think I will use a few small drops of Permatex silicone just to make the CPU easier to install in the mobo. I don't want to deal with the IHS sliding around.

u/FreefallJagoff · 1 pointr/SkyDiving

Here's my setup. I just removed the screw in the top, center of the visor, flipped it around, and replaced the nut with one of these. Then I used some Locktite (there are different strengths, you can get stronger than this one if you never plan on taking off the mount) to make sure it stays on.

Here are the steps to take off the visor:

  1. Remove the padding in the helmet.
  2. Remove the e-clips inside the helmet by your ears.The rods and padding that holds the visor will fall out, put those in a cup or something.
  3. Gently pull the mouth of the visor away from the helmet. Now you can access the nut holding the top, center screw on. Use a socket driver or adjustable wrench and a phillips screwdriver to take that screw out.
  4. Now the visor is off and you should be ready to install the mount.

    When you're done and have the visor reattached, gently slide the visor up and down on its rail. Mine got shifted and scratched the carbon fiber right next to the rail, so be gentle on your first go to make sure everything is properly aligned and won't damage the glossy finish.

    Feel free to PM me with questions.
u/JouetDompteur · 1 pointr/Throwers

I honestly prefer this stuff here over the clear one.

u/blackcat016 · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Here ya go, Toyotas use this as a oil pan gasket, not in addition to a real gasket just this stuff, I’ve used it plenty of times to hold various gaskets in place and never had a comeback due to a leak.

u/xxsoultonesxx · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I used THIS

u/moparman94 · 1 pointr/beetle

Yea it should be good for a bit. I did a new oil cooler and seals because the old one had a crack in it and made an absolute mess of things. New pushrod tubes and seals, valve cover gaskets, main seal, transmission input shaft seal. Basically everything I could get to without pulling the motor apart too far. Also, this stuff is your friend

u/Dan11151 · 1 pointr/sffpc

Here’s the link of the glue:

I’ve only tried delidding with the BoArt one, and I’d say the tool has high quality and definitely easy to use for anyone. The rockit88 also comes with the relid tool, but not necessary imo, since I simply applied 4 drops of the glue on each corner of the IHS and put the whole cpu unit back to motherhood, as the retention is strong enough to keep the IHS and PCB together. Lastly, the PRICE! The BoArt one costs only $12.99 compared with $45.99 for rockit88, so its ur choice! :)

u/crackered · 1 pointr/BBQ

I used some high-temp gasket sealer on my smoker (different style), so if the leaking ever bothers you, give it a try. Temp on this one goes up to 650*F, so can be used in most spots on a smoker.

u/Will7357 · 1 pointr/smoking

I’d search for the hole and put some flame retardant RTV over the hole.

Like this: Permatex 81160 High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket, 3 oz

u/ProximusAlpha · 1 pointr/ar15

It's leaking from under the under the gas block and around the gas tube. If it's leaking while it's new, it will only leak more over time. High-temp RTV would be a temporary fix. Don't get any in the gas port or inside the gas block. You can remove the gas tube and put some around the tube. Don't get any inside the tube.

I'm curious as to whether the barrel was dimpled for the set screws. Anyways, if the gas block and the barrel are not a good fit, your best bet would be to go with a clamp-on gas block--my preference over set-screw. There are a lot of options at just about every price range.

I would still check to see if there are any other issues with the gas system. Is the gas key staked? Is there any leakage between the gas key and the bolt carrier body? How tight are the gas rings between the bolt and the cylinder wall of the bolt carrier? If they're too tight, it might take some more shooting before they loosen up.

u/bense · 1 pointr/Honda

It's a parasitic power loss. I cut the belt on my '01 Accord about 4 years ago.

You should go ahead and replace the input shaft bearing on the transmission. If that's the original 277k transmission, then you're going to have to rebuild it at some point. It sounds more difficult than it is. Here's a list of all the unique parts/tools. You'll know your ISB (input shaft bearing) has failed when you hear a gross/grinding noise that disappears when you're stopped, engine is running, but have the clutch pedal pressed to the floor.

Honda OEM replacement parts for the bearing and seal.

Or something like this might be ideal for you. Not for me though. I'm cheap :)