(Part 2) Best fluid sealers according to redditors

Yes, but not the regular sealant. Use something like this; http://www.amazon.com/CRC-401612-Copper-Gasket-Compound/dp/B000M8NZ8E

Looks a lot like Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

You'll just need a timing belt kit and water pump and you should be good to go. So $100. Don't forget the liquid gasket.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBGHFY

Pick "surface insensitive" a.k.a. "oil resistant" while you're at it. About the same price, but much more universal. Also, in some cases gel is more convenient. Here's the stuff I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBM5TQ/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBM564/

Supposedly "over 1000 photographs on over 1000 pages". If it's their printing, it's gonna be a great presentation. He also corrected every detail he found that was inaccurate in the first printing.

I'd love another old 74 (even a generator Shovel would be fine) to build and go through. I'm conflicted though... I've planned on buying and building a late FXR ('89-94) into a hot rod, but after our discussions I'm wondering if I shouldn't put that money into another 74 (next year for all of this). The FXR will be more gratifying for wheelies and such and doing burnouts in front of my bitch mother in law's house, but a 74 would just be, well, a 74, with all the joy of wrenching and riding that brings with it. If you keep posting photos as you go through the program, it'll help me decide on the 74.

By the way, it is my opinion that Gasgacinch (gorilla snot) is the best stuff going for case halves. It also works wonderfully as a rubberizing coat for paper or asbestos gaskets when putting together older bikes with warped or dinged gasket surfaces. Get a can and add it to your tool box. I'm pretty sure it's liquid latex, but who knows. A thin coat on both sides of the gasket (that you let dry before assembly: 5 minutes or less) will seal any scratches or dings in old cam covers, primary covers, rocker box covers, ratchet lids, kicker covers, and so on. For case assembly, a not-so-thin film on either side of the case halves that's allowed to mostly dry before assembly will seal the cases tighter than anything else I've found. The Permatex #2 works fine but I don't like the color. I'm just partial to the gorilla snot. NEVER had a leaky case or treated gasket with it.

Since you like tips, my "essential goopy stuff" box has these things in it... always-

• Gasgacinch for all gaskets not o-ring or metal on older bikes as well as case halves,
  
  
• Loctite, a bottle of each, blue and red,
  
  
• Permatex high-temp Never Seez (anti-sieze goop with nickel and aluminum, for O2 sensors, spark plugs, fork stem nuts, and so on,
  
  
• Red Line assembly lube,
  
  
• Permatex spray battery terminal sealer,
  
  
• white lithium grease (a tub and spray can for everything from sticking needle bearings to the outer race during 4-speed tranny assembly to Evo and earlier oil pumps- pack the gears with grease when assembling and it'll prime the pump right away... do an oil change once the motor is hot)
  
  
• Moly bearing grease for high-pressure bearings and older bronze swingarm bushings,
  
  
• Good multi-purpose grease for roller bearings, caged ball bearings, and so on (moly grease can cause bearing "skid"),
  
  
• Permatex dielectric grease for Deutsch or Molex plugs and headlamp plugs,
  
  
• Moly Blue chain lube (when it's not an o-ring chain and you have shut off the breather/chain-oiler),
  
  
• Brasso liquid metal polish (for polishing old bronze bushings and getting oxidation off aluminum bits before putting a swap meet part on your bike)
  
  
• And 3 old-school squirt cans- one with GM tranny fluid (for when you need a lightweight lube but assembly lube isn't called for like the slide on an SU carb), one with 20W50 (heavier lube), and one with kerosene (for flushing crud out of small nooks an crannies like bolt holes that have grease or other crud accumulated)
  
  Copy and paste and print it out and go shopping. :)

Maybe some Permatex #2 would help? It's the old standby for cooling system leaks.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80011-Form-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBM6NG

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85144-Right-Stuff-Gasket/dp/B000HBNU4U/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=gasket+maker&qid=1569479122&sr=8-15

Noooo lol this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IHLZ5E/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_AGivtb11XQA26

Just ordered this:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24005-Strength-Threadlocker-Squeeze/dp/B0013K3YRW

Follow the directions and you'll be fine. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver to build it, and that's about it. If your Phillips screwdriver is one of those types with "bits", you'll need a regular one as there is a hole that those other ones won't fit in. Everything else should be included, including grease. You might want some threadlock for the metal to metal fastenings: https://www.amazon.com/DuraTrax-Pit-Tech-Threadlocker-2/dp/B0015H6DVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492756164&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+thread+lock

You will need a radio, receiver, servo for steering, and battery and charger. You picked a non-performance model here, so you won't need high-end stuff. You could probably get by with a cheap Futaba servo: https://www.amazon.com/Futaba-FUTM0031-S3003-Standard-Servo/dp/B0015H2V72/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492756615&sr=1-4&keywords=Servo

For radio and receiver I'm hoping someone else can help. I have a Spektrum radio and receiver that I like a lot, but there are cheaper ones - I see Flysky(?) thrown about here often.

For a battery, I recommend a 2S lipo pack such as this. A 5000mah pack will give you around 20 minutes of hard run time and maybe more. Pay attention to how the wires exit the pack! Wires that poke out the end won't work. Neither will the kind that exit the top. You want a pack with wires that come out the corner.

Shop around on the charger. Get a lipo balance charger. Maybe someone can recommend a good one for you as I've got a fairly expensive dual charger. Help me out guys!