Best fuel transfer & lubrication products according to redditors

You used to be able to pour gasoline from a jerry can. But pouring gasoline is super dangerous, so new cans all come with dribbler spouts.

Now you can safely hunch over your lawnmower for 20 minutes, refilling the tank drip by drip.

EDIT: Wow! Y'all have lots of thoughts about gas cans. Some themes:

• Cut off the dribbler and use a funnel.
  
• Saw off the business end of the dribbler.
  
• Buy an "Eagle" can that already has a funnel.
  
• Buy a vintage pre-dribbler can (or spout).
  
• Buy a race / motorcycle can.
  
• Use a milk jug.
  
• Buy a "No-Spill" brand can.

My personal favorite review: the Blitz 11849 Dispos-Oil. It's a jug for used oil. I quote the review below:

>I have always tried to save money. I buy the cheapest oil and filter for the family vehicles, and I always change it myself. However, I started experiencing the ill effects that all people must deal with from being a "home mechanic", the inevitable dead spots of grass in the backyard.
>
>After some time, the 40-50 qts a year being dumped into the backyard starts to take its toll. I noticed less wildlife, the well water was starting to have an icky taste, and I accidentally started the dirt on fire when my lawn mower hit a rock and made sparks.
>
>I had enough, and I wanted to start helping the environment.
>
>I purchased 24 blitz oil containers from amazon, and I could not be more happy. They are easy to bury, and look great in the ground.
>
>Now to my review of the product:
>
>It is sturdy and lightweight, something I look for in underground burial containers. It easily holds the rated 12 qts of oil, and doesn't appear to leak.
>
>Why not 5 stars?? My only complaint is the width of the product. If blitz would have made it slightly shorter, but also fatter, it would be much easier to put in the ground. I currently have to dig a 22" deep hole which seems kind of silly to me. I have also busted a cap when I was back filling around the container. Blitz should have thought ahead with this design and realized that shovel to cap contact would happen for most people.
>
>I do suggest this for the "tree huggers" and "greenies" out there, as it will make you feel like you're really doing something good for the earth.

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Spout-Water-Update-Your/dp/B00CYNDNM8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524158581&sr=8-1&keywords=gas+can+nozzle

They can sell these because it should only be used for water cans ;)

I replace all those shitty spouts with this kit. It pisses me off to no end that I have to hold the MFing 5 gal can for what feels like 10 min to fill my tractor and mower.

Just be careful you don’t put the vent to low like I did. Lost about a 1/2 gallon capacity.

Replacement Spout - Water Jug Or Gas Can Spout - Update Your Old Can! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYNDNM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HTgJBbWSVWAT7

LPT: Convert those "safety" cans to the old vented style for ~$10.

EZ-POUR Replacement Spout - Water Jug Or Gas Can Spout - Update Your Old Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYNDNM8/

I have spilt way more fuel worth the new versions than I ever did with older ones. I recently threw away all my gas cans and ordered a few of these. https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=gas%2Bcan&qid=1567700539&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

It’s pretty much a tea kettle without all the safety crap. Haven’t spilled a drop.

One of the best Amazon purchases I've madr. Worth every penny. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FZB3N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T5m2AbZK2BRP9

Dont destroy any cool/old licence plates!

Use cardboard or get one of these

Only ones we used to sell at my shop, because we stood by them. never had an issue with mine, and I love how there's and actual button instead of the usual push down nozzle bullshit.

Edit: after reading those reviews, it looks like a lot are missing the O-ring for the nozzle. Might not be preinstalled if you order it directly. I had to put them together before we sold them in our store.

I use one of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMK7FG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504813609&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=grease+gun+astro&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/

Purchase an oil catch basin similar to this:

http://www.amazon.com/The-Plastics-Group-W78-Container/dp/B000HEBYYU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407368098&sr=8-3&keywords=oil+drain+pan

Purchase a Oil Filter wrench that fits your car similar to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/CTA-2489-Millimeter-Heavy-Duty-Cap-Type/dp/B006VMXMQK/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407368191&sr=1-11&keywords=oil+wrench

Read the manual for your car and determine the correct weight of oil, quantity of oil and oil filter for your car.

You may need a new Oil drain plug Gasket like this, Your Manual should indicate if so:

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65292-AutoGrade-Drain-Gaskets/dp/B00062YSHS/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407368320&sr=1-9&keywords=oil+washer

Start your car and drive it a short distance to warm up the oil in it.

Park you car where you can access the oil drain plug and oil filter.

Place the Oil Catch basin under the drain plug of your car.

Remove the Oil cap from your engine.

Remove the Oil Drain plug from your car using the correct sized wrench.

Caution, Warm oil will pour out of the engine, You may want to wear gloves to keep from getting it on your skin.

Wait for the oil to finish draining out of the engine.

Replace the Oil Drain plug gasket/washer with a new one on your Oil Drain plug if your car is so equipped.

Re-install the Oil Drain plug.

Move your Oil catch basin under your Oil Filter

Use the Oil Filter wrench to remove your old Oil Filter.

Wait for the oil to finish draining out of your engine, Again it may be Hot so be careful.

Check that the Old Oil filter came off with it's gasket, You do not want to have the gasket left attached to the car.

Place the old Oil Filter open side down into your catch basin for it to drain.


Open a new bottle of oil, Dip your finger into it and smear a light coating onto the gasket that is part of the new oil filter, Covering it completely.

Thread the new oil filter onto your car gently by hand.

Carefully tighten the new oil filter onto your car using the Oil Filter Wrench.

Fill your car engine with the correct quantity and type of oil specified by your manufacturer.

Start the car, Run it for a minute. Stop the car.

Check under the car for any leaks.

Check the Engine Oil dip-stick and verify that the oil level is between the Min and Max levels marked on the stick.

Take your old waste oil to the nearest recycling center for such waste, Do not pour it into the trash or down a drain.

I think that covers it off the top of my head.

For real get one of these... Congrats it's now impossible to ever damage your plug. Makes the whole affair cleaner too, just attach some tubing feeding right to the oil drain...


Fumoto F106N FN-Series Drain Valve with Long Nipple with Lever Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D995XRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dxviDb58T1R7P

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Spout-Water-Update-Your/dp/B00CYNDNM8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Y75M/ref=psd_mlt_bc_B00004Y75M

I've been using these cans for a few years. They are a bit pricey, but they have been durable and I don't spill any gas.

If that doesn't work out: These things are pefect

Buy a couple of gas cans at costco, toss their horrible spouts, replace with the above and enjoy gas can bliss!

I'd do the maintenance routine just to be sure it's ready to roll. Details are in the owners manual. Basically, air compressor and blow out the power head. Light oil on the sheaves in the oil holes, any light oil like 3-in-1 will work but I like zoomspout because you can get down to the lower sheaves without having to take the headstock cover off. Graphite lube on all the controls and threaded components, paste wax on the way tubes, table, quill and any other unpainted parts.

It's not critical immediately, but you probably want to wire cup those bottom tubes at some point to get all the rust off and then paste wax to prevent future rusting.

I'd pick up a Penn State shopsmith adapter for the lathe, and then you can use any standard 1x8tpi lathe chuck. The barracuda 2 is a great kit that covers everything you need for small to mid-size turnings and is much more affordable than a nova or oneway chuck. Pick up a tailstock live center or two if you don't have one. While you are at penn state, pick up the shopsmith compatible pen mandrel if you want to try pen turning.

Shopsmith sells the jacob's chuck you need for the drill press. Used ones are a little cheaper on ebay. You might also want a tailstock drill chuck (or a cheaper one from harbor freight) for the lathe, especially if you fancy trying pen turning.

Make sure you have a power coupler or two, you need them for the bandsaw/jointer.

If you need any parts (bearings, belts, switches, etc) for your shopsmith, try Jacob's Repair Shop before you order from the mothership, he sources parts that are cheaper and higher quality than the stock ones.

Go for "racing" gas cans. They're exempt from the gas can law's.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972

PIG form a funnel ! Must have for Lube Guys!
FORM-A-FUNNEL Flexible Draining Tool - General Purpose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017MTFIYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mlXRBbJYNV5EH

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972

You can still buy a decent jug. They're still made. People haul those jugs off into the middle of nowhere on off-road vehicles that get beat the fuck up and the jugs endure just fine. They're vented, the caps are really durable, and they come with a nice long hose spout.

Amazon doesn't have the cheapest price on them, you can find them for as low as $24, but the free shipping is a plus.

Edit: I just looked further down the listing and the filler hose is extra, not included. Be sure to get one.

This is an old school idea. Fumoto has been making quick drain plugs for decades. Here’s an example:


Fumoto F106N FN-Series Drain Valve with Long Nipple with Lever Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D995XRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pgh1Db7E602XZ

Eagle cans they are made in the USA since the 1800s and are pretty affordable. If you don't wanna order one, I have found them at ACE Hardware stores - hard to find them at big box places.

They also don't have the pesky safety mechanism that seem to create more spills than they prevent.

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nEqwxbCXVF69F

You all need this..https://www.amazon.com/Form-Funnel-Flexible-Draining-Tool/dp/B010BZ26EQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=form+a+funnel&qid=1562212155&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Use is when I do an oil change on a 6.6 duramax

Any type I gas can works a million times better

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LPKnDbPGNJC5A

The Fumoto valve gets used a lot.

Replacement Spout - Water Jug Or Gas Can Spout - Update Your Old Can! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYNDNM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_CEAIwbXXNKA89

If you actually use this can more than once a month save yourself the trouble and go with these.

That is not actually an issue with HPDE, they actually use it for fuel/automotive containers. Although, some plastics will melt like polystyrene.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972

At least they can be fixed. I did this with my gas cans.

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Spout-Water-Update-Your/dp/B00CYNDNM8/

All kidding aside, i use food grade quality lube on threads and orings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CTM3IFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_YV9CDbM4MJ9VT

Looks like a Smittybilt : https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-2798-Jerry-Gas-Holder/dp/B008CLNYPC

Get one of these to transport it to the store. I just walk into the back of any advanced or autozone and dump it in their tank.

You need one of these

Smittybilt 2798 Jerry Gas Can Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CLNYPC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_GxTNub14GT4GG

Yes, I agree. We currently have two different types of fuel containers, and they're both fantastic.

We have one of these which is fantastic for pouring. I don't know why all the stores have those garbage, stiff hoses that end up getting gas everywhere, but this thing is fantastic.

-

We also have one of these, which is more expensive, but oh man it is a fantastic piece of work.

If you have Amazon Prime, theres a bunch of options on there for small little containers of 33ms, no need for a large tube, and you'll get it in 2-days with Prime.

I got this one, in the 1/4oz version. I've used it for 3 builds so far, and i still have a lot of it.

I just bought one of these and installed it on my old can.

Not sure if it's against the rules here, but... I use these for my jerry cans.

HFS (R) Gas Can Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYZJD5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q379AbDS6PH9F

I'm going to second this, but add that I use the one with a built-in hose which has been very reliable. Mine have been stored in my non-climate controlled barn for years with no adverse effects. The valve take a bit of practice to get used to using, but not a bother after that. I use an old wine cork to keep bugs and dust out of the hose.

Also note: I only use real gas and a stabilizer in these cans. For the slight extra cost, I can use it in all of my vehicles, farm equipment, and power equipment without worrying about the ethanol content. I buy the stabilizer in bulk from Amazon as well.

Those things are such a joke. Do yourself a favor and get a race can.

Local box store such as lowes or order via amazon. The funnel is removable, but obviously useful for filling up mowers, other cans, etc...

Get one of these:

http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-11849-Dispos-Oil-Recycle/dp/B0014FKI1Q

and one of these:

http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-10709-Spill-Funnel/dp/B000EH4V18/

Read and learn this guide:

http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Bio-Diesel

Buy one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/vw-jetta-tdi

Pour in your tank.

Profit.

Also, since you are on the 2nd floor and above, you probably want to learn to take the stairs or something to even out the deep fried candy.


Edit: Forgot, be sure to put an Apple sticker and/or a Linux Fish on the back of your VW for full credit.

I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.

• Torquing things:
  
  
  • An AR-15 armourer's wrench is a dedicated device for AR-15 assembly and will be needed to attach the barrel, buffer tube, and flash hider. I initially got a super cheap one that couldn't take the torque and the tool's teeth snapped off while stripping a few of my barrel nut's teeth. I now use a TAPCO-brand model and it's very well made.
    
    
  • A torque wrench ensures you are tightening the barrel, flash hider, and castle nut to the correct minimum amounts using an objective indicator of applied torque. The minimum values are in the 25-35 ft.-lb range, so get a wrench that can exceed this by a healthy margin.
    
    
  • You need a vise to hold your upper and lower receiver at the individual stages where you're attaching parts, especially anything that needs to be tightened to a specified torque level. C-clamps and speed clamps are also helpful here.
    
    
  • A pair of plastic blocks clamp your upper receiver tightly to your vise. A block of magazine-shaped plastic goes into your magwell to hold your lower receiver in place on your vise. Get a combo pack of both.
    
    
  • Molybdenum-based anti-seize (greasing) compound is necessary when attaching your barrel to your receiver. It makes things easier when torquing the barrel nut and prevents the barrel from chemically bonding to the receiver. I made the mistake of attaching the barrel without it, had great difficulty tightening the nut, found that I couldn't align the gas tube properly, and then couldn't remove the nut again. Had to toss the thing into a freezer overnight to allow thermal contraction to separate the parts.
    
    
• Pushing in roll pins:
  
  
  • You want a mallet with a non-marring head for driving in roll pins without damaging your weapon's finish.
    
    
  • A roll pin starter set will save you so much trouble getting the pins aligned for the first few hammer hits. Buy it.
    
    
  • For most of my roll pins, I used a roll punch set instead of a standard punch set to drive in the pins. Roll pins are hollow and a roll punch has a small indentation that fits inside the hollow area which makes driving the pins much easier.
    
    
  • A standard punch set came in handy to keep high-tension parts aligned while I punched in roll pins from the other side.
    
    
  • A bench block is useful in holding your parts in place while hammering in roll pins, but it's not needed if you have a friend to provide spare hands at some stages of assembly. I started off using it, but a roommate's hands plus a roll of tape (to rest the work piece on) worked just as well.
    
    
• Specialty / miscellaneous
  
  
  • If you're installing a handguard that uses the standard delta ring, you will want snap ring pliers to manipulate the snap ring part of the delta ring assembly. I initially tried using improved tools. Save yourself the cursing and just get the pliers.
    
    
  • I saw a video guide to installing the front pivot pin using a clevis pin. It looks like a good technique to use and would have saved me a lot of trouble.
    
    I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!

Not that it helps but I have had good luck with this model:


https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=pd_sim_86_11?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Qm42Jo4RL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR159%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=29JRFFYN19X5GX0AX181


5 gallon model costs $42, 2 gallon model costs $39.48.

I helped to develop a product for this a few years ago.

I gave up and bought an old style spout, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149L17FC

I haven't used that specific one, but they are all about the same. Put it on my new gas can and threw away the piece of shit valved thing that came with it.

You can get the hose separately. Grease gun fittings are standardized at 1/8 NPT.

I saw this at Sears last time I was there: https://www.sears.com/dewalt-dcgg5703-24-1-8-inch-npt-grease-gun/p-00916674000P

I got a cheap one at Advance Auto but I would not recommend it. It's starting to crack; I'll move up to the DeWalt one when this one goes. It is also like 10" -- too short in my opinion.

A quick google search tells me FlexZilla makes one too:https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-Grease-Hose-Spring-Guard/dp/B06WP9SQRK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537231339&sr=8-3 . I LOVE their air whip hoses, so that might be a good deal.

As an aside, while I was looking on Amazon I saw this: https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-fittings-best-selling-Long-lasting-rebuildable/dp/B00H7LPKKU

If you use grease fittings frequently, it might be worth it. The cheap coupler that came on my hose gets grease EVERYWHERE.

Personally, I will not upgrade until my hose ruptures, but that's because as a hobbyist, I only use a grease gun a few times a year.

That's flippin' brilliant! I will certainly give that a shot. Doing a little research in case anyone else finds this...

Bags, Burner, Boiler (looks like old eagle metal gas can) assorted flex hoses, clamps and tape and should be good to go.

Edit - Nice Safety Glasses are the first thing to get with a lathe!

It sort of depends on the types of things he wants to make, but a good starter set like this https://www.amazon.com/Turning-Turning-Hardwood-Handles-Ferrules/dp/B07TTFLDLB/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=wood+lathe+chisel+set&qid=1572720167&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMlA1NVQ4TkgzUFFMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzQ1NDcwMjJIOVY5U0hERTlMRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTYzNDM3MTI0R0tSU0hRVk9RMiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

or

https://www.amazon.com/Savannah-7173-Turning-Hardwood-Ferrules/dp/B004MM3MES/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wood+lathe+chisel+set&qid=1572720167&sr=8-5

will keep him busy for awhile as he finds his style. The real key is to get him a good way to sharpen these chisels. I like to use a 4 sided block or individual plates like these;

https://www.amazon.com/Jewboer-Diamond-Sharpening-Polishing-Whetstone/dp/B0752Q7GQ3/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2LXHR48U1CLJS&keywords=4+sided+diamond+hone+block&qid=1572720305&sprefix=4+sided+diamond+%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFNMTBUWkE0MUhXNkcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNDgwNTYzTVFQQVlZQjdEOTdNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMDUwNTEyQzFXSko5N1Y0Sk0md2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

or

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Whetstone-6-Inch-Sharpening-Sharpener/dp/B07JVV7JD6/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2LXHR48U1CLJS&keywords=4+sided+diamond+hone+block&qid=1572720305&sprefix=4+sided+diamond+%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-6

Some people like to use a bench grinder for sharpening but in my experience it is a a bit easier to use the honing blocks and stones until you have an idea of what angles you like best. Im terrible about dropping my chisels so I use the 200 grit to fix up dings and generally touch up my chisels with a 400&600 grit stone once a week or every other.

The other often forgotten necessity is oil for the lathe & chisels.I use a light oil on my chisels, lathe accessories like chucks & tapers, the bearings & spindle, and anything else on the machine that spins. The brand I like and have seen in a few different shops is Zoom Spout Oiler https://www.amazon.com/Supco-CE441-Zoom-Spout-Oiler/dp/B00DM8JK2G/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3NI4QXDJATASP&keywords=zoom+spout+oiler&qid=1572720750&sprefix=zoom+spout%2Caps%2C225&sr=8-4

​

For the Lathe Ways & the body of the machine, everything that doesn't get Light oil I use Way Lube.https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-100772-Vactra-No-2-Way/dp/B07B7XZKVF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lathe+way+oil&qid=1572720930&sr=8-1

​

Squirt everything spinny down with light oil before and after you use the lathe and you wont have issues with dust & chips gunking everything up. Way lube can go on once a month or whenever you want a fresh shine.

​

You are such a nice girlfriend, He is going to be stoked!! Good luck!!

Since you seem knowledgeable, can you comment on the safety of using a quality steel can like this in the trunk of a car? I'll be in a very remote area and I'm very concerned about running out of gas.

These are pricey but if you deal with gas regularly you'll love them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FZB3N0

I bought a sealable plastic container from Autozone . Drain the oil into a pan, then pour the pan into the container. Any auto parts store will have an oil dump where you can empty the container.

What kind of bike needs a lift for an oil change?

> I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions in the near future, but right now here's a couple.

NP hit me up as they come.

>Firstly, what are the appropriate applications for grease and oil? Is one more appropriate in different climates than the other? Would it be optimal to use a combination of both, applying each to different parts? I guess my main concern here is handling the extreme cold we get here in Minnesota (sometimes low as -35*F give or take).

So the only place grease should go is on the barrel nut and castle nut, if you intend to take them off again. For the barrel nut you will need a very specific grease so it doesn't seize, this is it.

For the rest, you just lube. There is some back and forth about dry lube in extreme particle environments, but you don't need to worry about that. There are a million lubes out there, all of which promise to be the next best thing. Most are snake oil. Slip 2000 is not, and I know for a fact their Slip 2000 EWL does work in -25f (cause I've used it personally, among other things). Here are all the proper points to put lube after cleaning. If you notice the rifle getting "sluggish" after a few hundred or thousand rounds (depends on ammo and conditions how long) just put a few more drops on the bolt lugs and bolt carrier rails, you can just drop it in from the ejection port while pulling the bolt back.

>edit: I'm wondering how this applies to pistols too as I have a p226. edit 2: And what about that EWL 30?

Same thing, I know Slip 2000 EWL works. I have not used EWL 30, nor would I in the cold as generally you want the lighter stuff for freezing temps. But you can always experiment with it and report back.


>Secondly, you mentioned a cleaning kit. Is this the one you were referring to? https://www.amazon.com/Real-Avid-223-5-56-Pack/dp/B011X9V70I


Correct, it is an excellent kit specifically for that AR. Comes with everything you'd ever need to fully clean one. I used and OTIS kit before the real avid, and a bunch of hodgepodge cleaning gear before that. The Real Avid just blows them away, and it is so small you can easily put it in a range bag or even large pocket.

Amazon has a replacement spout that is just the old-style bendy tube.

I used serpentine oil, this one: https://www.amazon.com/Supco-CE441-Zoom-Spout-Oiler/dp/B00DM8JK2G

That is interesting, but I did just buy this

I have one of these, I like it. Metal, 5 gallons, seals well, is easy to fill/pour. I got mine at Lowe's.

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JZWyDb6G82GAE

These actually don't suck

https://www.amazon.com/No-Spill-1450-5-Gallon-Poly-Compliant/dp/B000W9JN4S/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=gas%2Bcan&qid=1566782530&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1

It's raining here, so, I'm browsing reddit. Here you go.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Square-Utility-Gallons/dp/B00OJ7MCA6

Form-A-Funnel

I know its too late to order gas cans online. But here is the best ones to use. Get rid of that spout and add this one (link below too).

https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Can-Spill-Proof-Container/dp/B00SLPYJX0/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=gas+can&pd_rd_i=B00SLPYJX0&pd_rd_r=b5103acb-842b-471a-8ed4-6cad64c99ff4&pd_rd_w=SQPWy&pd_rd_wg=rV3Vm&pf_rd_p=d006b618-5fac-44e6-850d-a0fdd19f7847&pf_rd_r=6V47S3MXBY03ME7XAVX5&qid=1567161134&s=gateway&sprefix=gas+



https://www.amazon.com/Gas-Spout-Replacement-Water-White/dp/B0149L17FC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=ez+pour+gas+can+spout+10050&qid=1567161375&s=gateway&sprefix=ez+pour+gas+can+spout&sr=8-4

It'll be far easier to fix and maintain a generator than it would be to do the same thing with a car. Cars are complex and have tens of thousands of parts whereas a generator is simple and can be easily fixed with cheap parts.

You'll spend $3k+ on a car and end up with extremely poor comparative fuel efficiency and costly maintenance while not even being able to power a fridge. In the end, you'll generate even less electricity than a simple $500 dedicated generator would. You gotta trust us all, you're in a car community. We're all telling you that cars make abysmally terrible electric generators.

If you get a generator that is powered by gas or diesel, get one of these and a filler hose. All you gotta do is fill up that thing like you'd fill up a car. Easy peasy

It's a jerry can holder. I just mounted it to the rack myself, so it's a permanent fixture but worth it to me.

This isn't the one I bought but it's almost identical.


https://www.amazon.com/HFS-R-Gas-Can-Holder/dp/B06XYZJD5Y/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=jerry+can+mount&qid=1562105103&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Hey! Here's some close ups of the jerry can mounts and hardware - https://imgur.com/a/0jtSpIn

Jerry Can Holders

If you have needle fittings and a little bit of room to work, these hand pumps are great. Got 1 on a whim to try since it was cheap, and I was so impressed I now have one for each type of grease I regularly use.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-101-Grease-Needle-Nozzle/dp/B000FMK7FG

I was equally frustrated with the nozzles on new gas cans. I got these and am happy. I recommend them. None of that anti-leak stuff. Just replace the cap! Gas Spout - Replacement Spout And Cap For Pre 2009 Gas Cans And Water Jugs (White Set or Black Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149L17FC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S51JBbDNK9TDB

Depending on the size of the tubing a PEX expander might work. If not here are some lube options.


Brewer's Edge Keg Lube

https://www.amazon.com/Brewers-Edge-UX-CAOO-IQIT-Keg-Lube/dp/B07CHWNV6L

Weilheim's Bier Werks Lubricant for Rubber O Rings

https://www.amazon.com/Weilheims-Lubricant-Rubber-Maximum-Sealing/dp/B01IWNW126/

Food Grade O-ring Lubricant- Haynes

https://www.amazon.com/Grade-ring-Lubricant-Haynes-Kegconnection/dp/B00CTM3IFQ/

$35 for 5gal gasoline type 1

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=eagle+safety+can+5+gallon&qid=1558783784&s=gateway&sprefix=eagle+safety&sr=8-3

Bought one of these a few years ago, great for yard equipment and the like but a total pain if you want to put gas in a car without another funnel. Anyways it's a little cheaper on Amazon:

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LSa6Cb6J7PRR3.

I’ve got this one and have been pretty happy with it. It’s a little bit of a pain to fill - you have to remove the funnel to do so. But I have no problem when it comes to filling lawn and garden gas tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=gas+can+metal+5+gallon&qid=1558726693&s=gateway&sprefix=gas+can+m&sr=8-3

You can still get these new

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oEi6Cb118P705

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Eagle+gas+can&qid=1558744993&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Are these any good? I don’t like the rubber handle, because gas has a tendency of eating it up

Get a normal can and get rid of all the EPA crap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYNDNM8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_ztQWBb4ZJZ1GS

I got something similar. Haven't tried it yet, but it seems to be comparable: amazon.ca/dp/B000FMK7FG

My family has several Eagle gas cans that are many decades old and still get the job done.

there's no getting around that its a complete PITA. yes, passenger front wheel off, car in the air (if you don't have a lo-pro jack, drive the car up on some 2x4's to give yourself an extra boost). do yourself a favor and get this thing called a "Form-A-Funnel", its a super malleable plastic sheet you can form into a gutter to carry the oil out from under the filter and over your control arm to drain into a bucket or rag or whatever. its not a hard procedure, just requires patience to deal with the filter.

Thanks, this one fits ? Fumoto F106N FN-Series Drain Valve with Long Nipple with Lever Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D995XRF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LFHVDb6RZ4WTK

I only buy those metal cans with the funnel attached (I think eagle makes them) they're expensive but save so much frustration.

Edit: these. actually not a bad price, the last time I bought one it was like $55

Go to a coin op wash bay with heated sprayers and do a wash with your own soap, bucket, and mitt when you can. Dry with a water magnet towel before driving off and shouldn't be a problem.

Pro tip, bring your own water for filling the bucket to save time and money; I carry mine in a clean jug like this.

This might help:

https://www.amazon.com/SCEPTER-VENT-Kit-AMERI-CAN-UNISTREAM-KEROSENE/dp/B01ENU2YJ2

Thanks for the recommendations. Coleman's has 4 for $99 used which is pretty good.

Here are some links and reviews of No-Spill.

• Amazon 5 Gallon
  
• Amazon 2.5 Gallon
  
• Amazon 1.25 Gallon
  
• Home Depot 5 Gallon
  
• Home Depot 2.5 Gallon
  
• Home Depot 1.25 Gallon
  
  There are always some negative reviews, but like Is said I have the 1.25 and the can swells up in the heat as it truly is vapor leak proof for me. If I go with these I will get the flexible spout extension and the DOT approved cap.
  
  The cheapest I could find was around $27 shipped no tax.
  
  
  

As in the post is leaking co2? First try tightening the faulty post. If that does not fix it, try some food grade lubricant
And if that still does not work, buy new o rings, they're super cheap.

You're welcome! Happy I could help.

Speaking of my spare gas, I'm just about to order one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CYNDNM8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469220954&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=replacement+spout&dpPl=1&dpID=41NzOnHgyZL&ref=plSrch

My plastic gas container has one of those EPA approved annoying as hell spouts on it. So I'm replacing it with this "water" spout. Coincidentally I was low on gas but not out yet and needed to get somewhere just a couple weeks ago so I poured in my gallon and was reminded of just what a pain the standard spout is. So I'm getting a better spout. You may want to also.

just gunna leave this here for you: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H7LPKKU

I have this can (red) and this hose. My dad used them for our dirtbikes when I was growing up so there's a bit of nostalgia in them for me.

There's a company on Amazon that makes replacement no-nonsense spouts that work really well. I got a few and they've eliminated all of the spilling & leaking issues of my existing 1 and 2-gallon plastic cans.

Edit with link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ENU2YJ2/

An alternate for me was also getting one of those 14-gallon cans with a manual hand pump - about $100-$150 on Amazon and I only have to fill it up once a year.

Thanks for the post. As someone who is a new homeowner in FL and lived here through Matthew and Irma but not through mass devastation, this helps me understand what that looks like.

Your comments about tire repair struck me. I am planning on ordering this well-reviewed plugger. What air pump do you have?

In regards to cleanliness I keep some body wipes too, but for helping larger amounts of people I definitely see the value of the shower + soap.

For the gas can, check out this one - much safer than the plastic cans and I am very happy with the flexibility of the nozzle. I'll likely get a long funnel for it too, just in case.

https://www.amazon.com/d/Grease-Guns/LockNLube-fittings-best-selling-Long-lasting-rebuildable/B00H7LPKKU

The one I purchased, haven’t had a problem with it yet.

I have this one: link

Easy to use. You tip it into whatever you want to fill then press and hold the button behind the spout. Gas comes out and you release when you get to the amount you want. No leaks, no spills, stupid simple to use. Only downside is that it can be a bit of a pain in the ass to get the top off. Takes some force sometimes.


Edit: I am seeing people having issues with the o-ring. I haven't had an issue with mine and it sits with gas in it a lot(I bought it for working on a snowblower). Not saying it isn't an issue I just don't have experience with it.

My wife bought us this one, and I have to say it is stupid easy to refill a generator with the do-hickey on top. Plus, the mouth is so large that when you're re-filling it at the gas station, the pump handle doesn't keep clicking in your hand.

For oil, use a funnel. For gas, get a kit that converts the gas can to a "water can".

Here is one solution to that bullshit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CYNDNM8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478797756&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=B00CYNDNM8%7CB00NB3UUDK%7CB00P9QKPEG%7CB00YP3YTXM&dpPl=1&dpID=41NzOnHgyZL&ref=plSrch

No-Spill makes a good one. Has a spring loaded valve on the back of the spout that you push with your thumb.

No kidding. Seems like a waste of time, especially when this is $12 on Amazon.

When I'm done with changing the oil, I make sure it's sealed up tight and throw it in the back of my car for the next time I'm running errands. The household hazardous waste place here takes it, drains it into their giant vat, and gives me back the empty container. If it weren't for that thing, I'd still be paying the shop to do my oil changes.