Best garage & shop products according to redditors

We found 842 Reddit comments discussing the best garage & shop products. We ranked the 408 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Power converters
Barrel & hand fuel pumps
Garage & shop dispensers & receptacles
Garage emergency & safety equipment
Garage & shop floor & parking mats
Garage & shop fluid evacuators
Fuel transfer & lubrication products
Garage wall guards
Garage shop door locks & cables
Parking gadgets
Roller seats & creepers
Trailer steps
Dollies
Hand cleaners
Electric vehicle chargine equipment

Top Reddit comments about Garage & Shop Products:

u/someone_elses_socks · 707 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I am a 5'5" woman. My husband didn't believe there was such a thing when I told him I wanted a topside creeper for my birthday, so I'm still standing atop a Yeti cooler to reach the plugs on my Chevy truck.

Topside creeper for all my shorties out there.

u/ltshineysidez · 137 pointsr/gaming

ahh man all you guys had to do was get some powdered sanitizer and hot water and a one of those hand pumps and pump the hot water with sanitizer thorugh it. this and this

u/veloceracing · 48 pointsr/pics

Those boots look like the kind people put on their personal vehicles to prevent the car from being stolen. The wheel hubs aren't covered and the driver could just come back with his original wheels and drive away.

http://www.amazon.com/Trimax-TCL65-Wheel-Chock-Lock/dp/B0031XULF2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413126210&sr=8-4&keywords=parking+boot

u/overzeetop · 45 pointsr/OSHA

Actually, it's pretty simple with a shaker siphon. To maximize the local store's $ off fuel promo (35 gal maximum), I fill up the car/truck and up to four 5 gallon gas cans. Using the siphon to put the gas in the car later is easier than using even the old-style spouts.

u/[deleted] · 24 pointsr/Honda

In addition to the Club, I stick one of these on my Civic every night:

https://www.amazon.ca/Trimax-TCL65-Wheel-Chock-Lock/dp/B0031XULF2/ref=asc_df_B0031XULF2/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292980735072&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6642788336222144072&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001570&hvtargid=pla-436197776553&psc=1

I mean sure, it's definitely defeatable, but I figure to steal the car now:

  1. Dude has to bring a battery-powered angle grinder, and sit there for 8-10 minutes, while sparks fly and the noise wakes everyone up.

  2. Then, he has to break into the car.

  3. THEN he has to cut the steering wheel, to remove the club, if he's halfway intelligent. If he's an idiot, then he'll try to defeat the club directly.

  4. Then, he has to steal the car as normal.

    By that time, I will have called 911, and I'd be there myself, with a can of bear spray, and a section of pipe.

    What have I overlooked here?
u/skotman01 · 24 pointsr/Skookum

I replace all those shitty spouts with this kit. It pisses me off to no end that I have to hold the MFing 5 gal can for what feels like 10 min to fill my tractor and mower.

Just be careful you don’t put the vent to low like I did. Lost about a 1/2 gallon capacity.

Replacement Spout - Water Jug Or Gas Can Spout - Update Your Old Can! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYNDNM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HTgJBbWSVWAT7

u/reddituser6912 · 24 pointsr/VEDC

I just bought 4 x Wavian 5 Gallon NATO Jerry cans from CampingMaxx and they are great - https://www.campingmaxx.com/nato-jerry-gas-can.html

Fit perfectly in my 2017 Escape (Same trunk as yours). I got 4 cans in red, and got 2 spouts. I also have a shaker siphon on the way - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH0ORI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.1iTybARPWCNP

https://i.imgur.com/WZRkeGg.jpg

They are pricey, but worth it!

The quality NATO cans also do not vent or anything, so in the entire time taking these 4 home from the gas station, I didn't even get a wiff of gas. I would have no concern leaving these in my car in the event of evacuation or anything. I would probably avoid driving around with them all the time though, as if you had a bad accident they could break open and leak gas everything

If you get four, they line up with the rear seats perfectly, so a strap could go all the way round

EDIT: Here is my full EDC, since you have an Escape too... https://www.reddit.com/r/VEDC/comments/67res8/updated_vedc_album_38_images/

u/rantipole1 · 22 pointsr/BuyItForLife

LPT: Convert those "safety" cans to the old vented style for ~$10.

EZ-POUR Replacement Spout - Water Jug Or Gas Can Spout - Update Your Old Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYNDNM8/

u/gittenlucky · 15 pointsr/Anarcho_Capitalism

I have spilt way more fuel worth the new versions than I ever did with older ones. I recently threw away all my gas cans and ordered a few of these. https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=gas%2Bcan&qid=1567700539&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

It’s pretty much a tea kettle without all the safety crap. Haven’t spilled a drop.

u/mtnbikeboy79 · 11 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

A topside creeper is your answer.

u/rjam710 · 11 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Only ones we used to sell at my shop, because we stood by them. never had an issue with mine, and I love how there's and actual button instead of the usual push down nozzle bullshit.

Edit: after reading those reviews, it looks like a lot are missing the O-ring for the nozzle. Might not be preinstalled if you order it directly. I had to put them together before we sold them in our store.

u/alchemy_index · 10 pointsr/cars

I use these jackstands and they are absolutely amazing. They make the other "best" jackstands sold at big box stores look puny in comparison. The only drawbacks are they're expensive (~$65/ea) and the lowest lift height is equivalent to around middle of the way up on normal/smaller jackstands.

http://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

This is a great detailed review which is what turned me on to Esco: http://revlimiter.net/blog/2010/07/mega-jack-stand-review-1/

u/KAU4862 · 10 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Here…

$18 for a pair of 3 ton stands shouldn't break the bank.

u/TwoScoopsofDestroyer · 10 pointsr/rage

Heh just acquire some Hydraulic Wheel Dollies (or just three buddies with hydraulic jacks), and pickup and move the truck a small enough distance to not be considered grand theft auto, possibly move it to be blocking in a different asshole, or such that he has to get in from the passenger side.

u/roj2323 · 9 pointsr/teslamotors

Rather than destroying the car as many of the posters here seem to be encouraging why not just move the car.
Using a set of hydraulic wheel dollys you can simply push the car out of the space.

pic

LINK

u/ClearableCloth0 · 8 pointsr/landscaping

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Y75M/ref=psd_mlt_bc_B00004Y75M

I've been using these cans for a few years. They are a bit pricey, but they have been durable and I don't spill any gas.

u/sirkazuo · 7 pointsr/electricvehicles

It really depends on how many miles you need to drive. L1 charging adds about 4 miles of range per hour of charging, so if you've got 10 hours to charge at night that means you'll get 40 miles of range per day. If your regular use is less than 40 miles per day in that case then you'd be fine.

You can also buy L2 chargers that plug right into your dryer outlet and will double (or more!) the charge speed, and there's no modification of anything required. You'd just have to plug and unplug the dryer and car charger every time you wanted to use one or the other, which would be inconvenient but not difficult. They are just as safe as using a L1 charger and are designed to be used that way. You just have to look at your dryer plug and make sure you buy a charger with the same kind of plug, since there are a couple different kinds of plugs for dryer outlets depending on how old your house is.

If you do eventually have an additional outlet installed for a dedicated L2 charger you could just have the same outlet installed as what your dryer uses and use the same charger you bought already, just plugging it into the new outlet so you don't have to swap it with the dryer anymore and don't have any additional expenses except the installation of the new outlet.

u/sinurgy · 7 pointsr/functionalprint

If that doesn't work out: These things are pefect

Buy a couple of gas cans at costco, toss their horrible spouts, replace with the above and enjoy gas can bliss!

u/sorry_but · 6 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

These if you plan on leaving them up for any extended amount of time. The ones you posted I use as secondary backups in case the mains fail. I want to avoid getting crushed to death if possible.

u/raitchison · 6 pointsr/BoltEV

You can get a Tesla to J1772 adapter and use your Tesla EVSE.

There are a couple different companies that make them, the TeslaTap and the JDapter Stub.

They are a bit pricey at $230-$250 but cheap compared to another EVSE.

Since the EVSE that came with the Tesla is a portable one, if you want one that's a bit more permanent you could always buy a different J1772 EVSE and use it with either your Bolt or your Tesla (with a J1772 adapter that came with the Tesla).

Not sure what your idea of a middle of the line charger is, For a "budget" model (that's not super cheap) you might want to consider the Siemens VersiCharge. It's a 30A unit that can be bought for under $400, though I've heard people report that this unit doesn't work well with the Bolt's "time of use" charge feature.

The one I have is the JuiceBox Pro 40, as the name implies it can charge at up to 40A (if you have a 50A circuit to feed it) and it has a lot more features including reporting on usage and control with your phone. It's more expensive at about $550 and there's a 32A unit which is about $50 less expensive.

One big advantage of the Tesla to J1772 adapter is it would allow you to use your Tesla EVSE as a portable 32A EVSE for your bolt if you ever decide to take it on a road trip (though honestly your Tesla is going to be a better road trip car).

u/pto892 · 5 pointsr/cars

I really hope that Audi isn't just upselling using a fluid extractor to suck out oil through the dipstick. Here's how I've been doing it on my VW TDI, using a Mightyvac 7201 to pull the oil. If this is all they're doing-well that's just plain evil for $150.

u/trapspeed3000 · 5 pointsr/cars

Steering wheel lock is the most realistic, but there are also wheel chock locks. The problem is if the thief tried to drive off it could mess the car up. Disconnecting the battery is also an easy simple deterrent.

u/dvxatron · 5 pointsr/Dualsport
u/GrandMarquisMark · 5 pointsr/Autos
u/KoiWaAbareOniTaiko · 5 pointsr/Diesel
u/HERD_ · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Removing the questionable gas is the safest option, & no reason not to do it. If you don't want to suck through a hose & want to spend money you can try something like a shaker siphon https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10801-FloTool-Shaker-Anti-Static/dp/B000EH0ORI

 

You can try to run it, it most likely won't hurt anything, it's not a huge risk. But for only ~$10-15 worth of gas it's not the best idea. If it were my truck I would try it, but that's because I would feel comfortable handling any negative side effects myself, without having to spend much money.

When it's time to put fresh fuel in, it's not a bad idea to only fill the tank with a few gallons worth of fresh gas & drive it for a day or so (then check for leaks/smells). There's a chance that the reason it wasn't being used is because it has an issue, but hopefully/likely it'll be alright.

A good fuel system cleaner would be Redline SL-1, or BG 44k.

Hope you enjoy your new truck.

u/rickdaytona3 · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

A siphon pump is going to be your best bet. Less than ten dollars.

Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7kJOyb5JVPD8R

u/BadVoices · 5 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

The issue is, really, that the P30 chassis was built to a spec... and then the motor-home/coach builders said 'fuck that spec' and just built whatever they wanted on top of it. Extra axles, lengthening the frame to absurd levels, not changing specs on brakes, etc. I had a 97 fleetwood that was 3000lbs heavier than the chassis rating, and 1000lbs heavier than what it's own label said it was (empty!)

One thing I see a lot on P30s is the front sway-bar bushings are completely gone. Enough so that the sway-bar is completely disconnected (only the bushings hold it on!) Take a look underneath, make sure that the swaybar is even there... without it in place and with solid bushings, that rig will be absurdly difficult to control, and a white knuckle ride all along. I like Energy Suspensions poly, super firm, makes the vehicle feel totally different. Check the rear sway as well.

Front steering bellcranks are commonly worn too. Give em a wiggle, if they move at all, they are worn out and the vehicle will just kind of have a bit of a mind of its own. Give it a good brake check. The ABS system sometimes goes awry and it's pucker factor 9.0 when you're rolling that fat bitch down a hill and the pedal sinks. At the very least, bleed and inspect the brakes and their pads, pretty much assured to not have ever been done.

Look at how low the front of the frame is to the ground. If you get a flat, do you have a jack onboard that will fit under there? Probably not. P30s are 'heavy' enough that you'll be calling a heavy wrecker for a tow, or paying for heavy-duty roadside, which can be spendy. Find a jack that will fit under there with a flat tire, and make sure you have a nice long lugwrench to get those lugs off. Keep em onboard. Also some 2x6's or Lynx Levelers so you can roll a flat up onto them to get some clearance. Also handy for leveling the rig on when camping!

Your tires most likely will be aged out, and dryrotted, before they wear tread down. If the tires are over 3 years old, or over 5 if they were covered, consider replacing them. Also, duals have a tendency to go low on air and cover it up thanks to it's neighbor, especially insides. Get a proper air gauge, and make it a point to verify all 6 tires PSI every time you stop for fuel. At the very least, when you start a trip.

Parking brake is almost assuredly crap, doubly so if it's an auto-parking brake. Get chocks, read up on how it works now (there are a few versions, and you can end up locked up and stuck if some versions fail.)

Another tip: If you are going somewhere with water, dont fill up. If you are going somewhere without water, fillup as close as you can to the destination. Lugging around 100 gallons of water (around 850lbs) adds a lot of annoying mass to your machine. Learn about the plumbing, water pumps, one way valves, water heaters, and pex pipes are very common failures that can end your trip!

u/humanwire · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

I'd actually throw the Juicebox Pro at $599 in the consideration mix as well. I'm thinking about getting it for all the smart/wifi features. It has most of the same features as the Chargepoint charger, but cheaper.

u/fatuxedocat · 4 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Eagle cans they are made in the USA since the 1800s and are pretty affordable. If you don't wanna order one, I have found them at ACE Hardware stores - hard to find them at big box places.

They also don't have the pesky safety mechanism that seem to create more spills than they prevent.

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nEqwxbCXVF69F

u/ffstork · 4 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Any type I gas can works a million times better

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LPKnDbPGNJC5A

u/LordoftheChickens · 4 pointsr/vandwellers

Poor people can use Lynx levelers. Blows your stealth, tho'.

u/Zen_Diesel · 4 pointsr/preppers

I really like the shaker siphons for fuel transfer. I keep one attached to my jerry cans.
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10801-FloTool-Shaker-Anti-Static/dp/B000EH0ORI

Or at harbor freight if that is more your speed. https://m.harborfreight.com/self-priming-copper-jiggler-pump-47334.html?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fduckduckgo.com%2F

I have both and the only difference is the hose on the harbor freight version tends to collapse when bent.

For Jerry cans I like the Wavian brand jerry cans. I store fuel (with stabilizer) for 6-12 months at a time before cycling it and I wanted something that wasn’t going to leak or vent. They are heavy steel and coated internally. Those can be had directly from Wavian with free shipping so you know you aren’t getting a knockoff from a ripoff artist on Amazon. Priced exactly the same as Amazon.

Great story! Thank you for volunteering it’s nice to have a reminder that good ppl are out there!

u/bastardusmarkus · 4 pointsr/Harley

I have this https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5044-Motorcycle-Scissor/dp/B0196PAZ1S and I'm happy with it. If you go with it buy a 7/8 deep socket and leave it on the stand for easy adjustments

u/daveed2001 · 4 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Replacement Spout - Water Jug Or Gas Can Spout - Update Your Old Can! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYNDNM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_CEAIwbXXNKA89

If you actually use this can more than once a month save yourself the trouble and go with these.

u/mrtravis2772 · 4 pointsr/plastidip

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

u/GRelativist · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Next time, use a siphon pump.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0181EDCZ6/

You should have one somewhere for emergencies.

P.S. call poison control!

u/knobbysideup · 3 pointsr/assholedesign

At least they can be fixed. I did this with my gas cans.

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Spout-Water-Update-Your/dp/B00CYNDNM8/

u/everythingistaken435 · 3 pointsr/GoRVing

They stack up kind of like legos. I carry a set of ten. they come in handy.

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K

u/AlphaMoose67 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You can get a siphon pump or a piece of clear tubing and your mouth.

u/KrazyKastorff · 3 pointsr/leaf

Depends what your purchasing factors are. Is cost your main sale point or is functionality like wi-fi options something you care for?

I recommend Juicebox if you want everything in one package: https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-WiFi-equipped-Electric-Vehicle-Charging/dp/B00UB9R4KO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495805823&sr=8-3&keywords=juicebox+evse

u/el_derrotado · 3 pointsr/f150

Where did you find this pic? Cause googling "topside creeper" gave me an Amazon link to this exact product with this exact pic as it's first image.

https://www.amazon.com/Traxion-3-100-Foldable-Topside-Creeper/dp/B00QGXSODA

Thanks for letting me know this is a thing, I've wanted something like this for a while. Even at 6'2" it doesn't feel too nice having battery terminals or whathaveyou ground into my gut.

u/devicemodder · 3 pointsr/IDontWorkHereLady
u/JohnnyRockets911 · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

Hey all! I asked my apartment about being a Tesla Charger partner and they applied! They also asked for a recommendation for a charging solution for all cars. Which one is considered the best for all EVs?

Edit, is this one advised? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UB9R4KO

u/barracudamuscle · 3 pointsr/aviationmaintenance

I’m an mechanic and and owner as well so I see both sides. Your intuition is right to get it out, it’s going to suck but the peace of mind is worth it.

Not sure if you already have some but some mechanical fingers will help you as it gets closer to getting it out.

The fuel will be a double edge sword, it will enable the float to float, but once it’s floating it’s going to move all over. My recommendation is once you get a visual on the float, try to grab it a bit with the fingers. If that doesn’t work get it positioned within the ribbed compartment of where the fuel cap is and drain the tank. Once the fuel is out of the compartment the float won’t be so easily moved and will be easier to grab with mechanical fingers, a bent coat hanger, what ever it takes to try to get the float close to the fuel cap.

In regards to draining the tank, obviously you can use the fuel drains but that will take forever and is kinda messy. I’d recommend purchase a siphon to speed it up. My favorite go to is the super siphon because it’s got a glass marble on the end to prime the line you just shake it up and down so there’s no drinking fuel and it has great flow once started. It comes in handy for jobs like this or say you decide to bring the extra person but your tanks are topped you can cleanly drain fuel into 5 gallon cans to shed the excess fuel. I know it says unavailable but look around the farm supply stores, home improvement stores, etc and you’ll be able to find one if you want that brand.

Not sure about the waterproof on the borescope you have. Depending on the unit it might not be waterproof but I’d check with the manufacturers specs to get an idea.

So the bad news will be if that float doesn’t float your going to have to go even deeper and remove sheet metal to find it. I imagine if your fuel tank indications were normal or at least somewhat working(at least reads full or close to it when full) it will float. This is rare but can happen.

Good luck, happy fishing!

u/jkkissinger · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Buy yourself an oil extractor it’ll be the best $100 you’ve ever spent. Definitely make sure your engine is war though, if it’s not it’ll take forever to extract. The best part is that you no longer have to left the car, you can do everything from the top.

u/throw-a-weh · 3 pointsr/videos

There are dollies (I have also heard them called skates) that some places use to move cars around.

These make it so you don't have to run the car with exhaust, noise and tire marks inside buildings/showrooms. This also allows you to position it in places that would be tougher or perhaps impossible to drive to. You can push the vehicle horizontally and you can spin it around in place. It would be time-consuming and a bit of work for the crew, but this would be my guess as to how they solved this problem. Have a few sets of those dollies, and have a few teams push the cars around in different areas.

It is also possible that these dealerships have things that are even better and easier nowadays. It has been over 10 years since I worked at the dealership, so it is possible things have gotten better. Also, I am sure this Porche dealership has more money than the Ford dealership I worked for. So they can afford to spend more money to move their more expensive cars.

u/thomas533 · 3 pointsr/preppers

I prefer Shaker Siphons.

u/Nakatomi2010 · 3 pointsr/leaf

PlugShare is your friend. Visit the website, get the app, get familiar with charger locations.

Check to see if the car qualifies for the No Charge to Charge program from Nissan. This will allow you get charge free at select chargers for 2 years.

Nissan's EZ Charge app also tells you where the chargers that are Nissan compatible are. Bonus, it is also blatantly obvious about where you can leverage No Charge to Charge, again, only if you qualify for that.

When planning on going on a long distance drive, be familiar with where the chargers are along the way.

If you haven't already, look in to an L2 charger for use at home. Most folks will get a JuiceBox Pro 40A which enables them to track power utilization via WiFi. Bonus of getting the JuiceBox vs some of the others is that the JuiceBox uses the NEMA 14-50 connector, which enables you push more power later on. Basically buying for all electric cars you might buy, not just this one. Plus cheaper that the ChargePoint at home variant, though the ChargePoint at home Variant is handy for tracking charges at home, and not at home.

Get the apps for the Chargers in your area. As mentioned, there's ChargePoint, Greenlots, and others. PlugShare is good for finding the chargers regardless of brand/owner. The brand/owner apps are handy for actually using those chargers, and seeing whether or not they're in use, or online. When you get to the charger, the app can let you enable it, and track the charging status.

Don't be too worried about the charger vendor variants. It's basically like having RaceTrac, Wawa, Mobile, Exxon, gas stations and such. You might prefer going to one brand over the other, but it helps to know where the others are for when you're in dire need of a charge.

Other than that, just learn to leverage regenerative braking (B-Mode) while driving, and avoid hard accelerations, and hard braking.

u/TheDudeFromOther · 3 pointsr/landscaping

I just bought one of these and installed it on my old can.

u/SSMDive · 3 pointsr/flying

> I wouldn't sweat an extra 150 lbs primarily because you won't be carrying that 150 lbs during landing when the weight could work against you impacting stall speeds, maneuvering, etc.

  1. Ramp check
  2. Emergency issue and has to land
  3. Minor issue, but SHOULD land

    Not going to say I never had some "taxi fuel" in the plane when I started a flight. But there are several reasons why it could be a bad idea. Even a slight accident landing at his destination that involves the FAA and they calculate he was over MTOGW when he departed is enough to make them want to jump on him an MAYBE make his insurance company claim they don't owe him anything.

    Personally I would, and have, drained some fuel from the plane. I have three five gallon plastic fuel cans at my hangar (actually four, but I use one for old oil). I have a piece of rubber tubing that fits over the quick drains. It is pretty simple to put one end of the tube into the jug, and one over the quick drain and open the drain.

    Or you can buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E

    I also have one of those. I use it on my SeaRey.

    As for the fears of fire.... Take precautions. But it is better to have a fire on the ground because of fueling issues than a fire because you had an incident (of course the chance of an incident is pretty small...... But it is small in either case).
u/Gur814 · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

It depends on the type of outlet. First, try to find an official adapter from Tesla. With the official adapter, your car will automatically detect the correct amps and volts for the plug.

If Tesla doesn't make an official adapter, you can try to find one online that converts to NEMA 14-50 and use the included 14-50 plug from Tesla. The downside to this is that the Tesla will think you're using a NEMA 15-50 plug and will attempt to draw power for that type of plug. Before plugging in, go into charge settings and lower the amps to what the outlets is actually capable of. For a 30 amp outlets, lower it to 24.

For example, my garage has a NEMA 10-30 outlet. Tesla used to make an adapter for this, but they don't anymore so I had to resort to 3rd party adapters. I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00STD8S7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482324615&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=nema+10-30+to+14-50+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41KnxpPUD%2BL&ref=plSrch

This adapter works well, but I have to lower the amps to 24 before charging. I wish Tesla would just let me buy their official 10-30 adapter. It would be much safer since the car would automatically grab the correct amount of amps.

u/not12listen · 2 pointsr/Toyota

with that many miles, i wouldn't suggest draining/filling via the drain plug.

i'd suggest siphoning some out with a device like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Koehler-Enterprises-RA990-Multi-Use-Transfer/dp/B0181EDCZ6/

siphon out 2 qts worth, as its likely black. then fill in 2 qts.

in 1 month, do the same again. keep doing this

please keep in mind the condition of your ATF via color. here is a chart to help.
https://cdn-enterprise.discourse.org/cartalk/uploads/default/original/2X/a/ae8d95d195f3bc88f3aad95c4a7358a12600c85f.gif

in total, the job is likely to take 20-25 minutes... the point of this slow siphon/fill method is to slowly remove the garbage from your trans, without increasing the risk the trans blowing up.

u/RugerRedhawk · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Local box store such as lowes or order via amazon. The funnel is removable, but obviously useful for filling up mowers, other cans, etc...

u/hhhikikomori · 2 pointsr/eGolf

I have the 2016 SE model! This is the charging cable they gave me:

https://www.amazon.com/Zencar-100-240V-Portable-Electric-Compatible/dp/B075GJK2S9

u/DailyCloserToDeath · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

So I was lucky. My 100A subpanel was in my garage.

I had an electrician come and install a 240V/40A outlet about 2 meters from the sub panel. He went through sheetrock and didn't spackle (and neither have I). That was about $350.

I then purchased a Level 2 portable charger on Amazon. The electrician and I chose the outlet type, in my case I chose a NEMA 6-50. You get what you think is right for your electrical grid.

Here's the product link.

That was about $350 when I bought it.

So total expense to me was about $700.

Whether you want a "charging station" or "place to charge" is up to you and your aesthetics/finances.

u/Mr_Kleen · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Traxion 3-100 Foldable Topside Creeper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QGXSODA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YwOsDb885ZBXN

Edit: I should mention I've not used that brand just wanted to show you the concept.

u/TurtleWaffle · 2 pointsr/subaru

Just get these. They'll come in handy.

u/Katapesh_Express · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I bought a jiggler siphon just for this reason. It works great for transferring fuel. Every other siphon I've ever used does not even compare.

u/trippinglydotnet · 2 pointsr/BurningMan

It looks like this - exact same design - except mine is all metal, the siphon hoses are clear and cost it $30 (can't find the exact one I have):

Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5lfrDbY36MTHC

The hosing is long and only 1/4" so can make it around the anti-rollover valve, although it takes some spinning and jiggling. It works on my VW Gti, Prius C and is long enough to work on the RV too.

You can see the tarp we use, which is great for the burn -- super heavy, and other fuel things on our packing list: https://www.trippingly.net/burning-man-bin-organization

u/KnockKnockComeIn · 2 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

How can you afford a 55 G drum of VG but not a pump?!

The cheapest method here will be a fuel transfer pump. I've used them to get old gasoline out of cars.

Might be easier to turn up the heat in the room or place a space heater by the drum to warm up the VG a bit before to make things go faster.

Here is the first one I found but I'm sure you could find it cheaper at like a Harbor Freight or any auto store:

Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fAs7xbHQNMW4M

u/PDXPayback · 2 pointsr/volt

If you’re still looking for a replacement, I picked up [this EVSE](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GJK2S9) for traveling, and it’s worked great, and it was the cheapest I could find. Also looks like the one being used in the picture.

u/wartornhero · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

Keep a set of these in your Tesla.. https://www.amazon.com/Dragway-Tools-Hydraulic-Positioning-Capacity/dp/B003W0F33O/ That way you can move their car for them.

u/5-4-3-2-1-bang · 2 pointsr/nottheonion

Not trying to be a jerk, but buy some jack stands. They're cheap and wayyyyy safer than keeping a vehicle on a jack. Jack vehicle up, insert jack stand, put vehicle down on jack stand. Fucker isn't going to move after that! (DON'T use the jack stand as shown in the amazon pictures, that's a great way to fuck up your body work. Put it under a frame member!)

Or, like my old truck, you could just reach in over the front tire to replace the oil filter, and combined with a fumoto valve on the drain plug you have a no tools oil change! (Unless a drain pan counts as a tool, of course.)

u/NMHacker · 2 pointsr/Albuquerque

Trailer thefts happen all over the damn place. Here is an article of one in Orange, CA. One of the safest cities in the country. Many years ago, I used to deliver products to several cities around the west. I always took precaution s in securing the trailer I was towing. Every trailer I hauled had one of these, as well as one of these. Never had a problem. Point is, take precautions in securing your valuable, no matter where you are.

u/iamnotcreativeDET · 2 pointsr/cars

because some transmissions dont have dipsticks, but when you change the fluid you also should change the filter.

If you have a dipstick and want to pull the fluid out that way, you just need a pump. Like this one but that doesn't really prepare you for how doable this actually is.

u/neilthecellist · 2 pointsr/BoltEV

I looked up the MUSTART portable Level 2 charger on Amazon, is this what you're referring to?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077DC39J9

If so, I have two questions:

  • Did you get the 32A or 40A version? Just asking because there's another Amazon verified purchase customer who claims to have gotten the 40A version for their Chevy Bolt 2019, but as the official docs say (and you said yourself), the Chevy Bolt 2019 maxes out its pull at 32A.

  • Do you plug in directly to a NEMA14-50 drop on the wall, or did you get one of those NEMA14-50 to 120V adapters like this one?
u/a6mzero · 2 pointsr/cars

I suggest u amazon impact sockets (mm not sae) and deep impact sockets both in 1/2 instead of normal ones (I wish I did this =/ ). also buy a pipe that will go over the breaker bar to extend it. Unless workout like MMA fighter, u will need it

I also have this.

And a socket to drill adapter, makes life really easy. Even to just use scissor jack with.

u/cyancynic · 2 pointsr/boatbuilding

That's flippin' brilliant! I will certainly give that a shot. Doing a little research in case anyone else finds this...

Bags, Burner, Boiler (looks like old eagle metal gas can) assorted flex hoses, clamps and tape and should be good to go.

u/sumthingcool · 2 pointsr/eGolf

Oh for the couple hundred extra I meant the smart ones.

$550 for the Juicebox https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-Electric-Vehicle-Charging-Station/dp/B00UB9R4KO

Chargepoint $520-$560 https://www.amazon.com/ChargePoint-Enabled-Electric-Vehicle-Charger/dp/B071YDJ1F6?th=1

OpenEVSE $550 https://www.openevse.com/stations.html

Those all get you web interfaces with reporting, ability to set charge times and rates, etc.

u/BillStickers99 · 2 pointsr/Frugal

Don't be cheap with raising your car up, seriously. What's saving 30 bucks when your life is at stake? 25 bucks at amazon for a pair of 3 ton stands.

Please do not use blocks of wood.

u/CyberCat · 2 pointsr/solareclipse

Since you seem knowledgeable, can you comment on the safety of using a quality steel can like this in the trunk of a car? I'll be in a very remote area and I'm very concerned about running out of gas.

u/phill_davis · 2 pointsr/projectcar

Yeah, if it's a practicality thing I use this "shaker" siphon and red plastic fuel cans.

If it's an aesthetics thing: then no.

I use this for a lot of gas, and it works well. Why? Because I was reading the Kroger fuel discount brochure one day and realized my reward was for up to 35 gallons of gas. I was essentially throwing over half my reward away by using it on 15 gallons of gas. So now, I take my car and four five gallon containers about once a month and save 50 to 70 cents per gallon on 35 gallons ($210-$294 for a year/ enough for a membership to the children's museum and zoo). Before I was using a funnel, but that shaker siphon was a godsend. I just set the 5 gallon container on my trunk (old car) and start it going and come back in a few minutes.

Maybe that helps? I use it for my mower and moped too.

u/Grabm_by_the_poos · 2 pointsr/UpliftingNews

I got these a while back.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO86BY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_bcStybKPMP9EB. They feel really solid. More than enough for my 2 ton Acura specially when I'm only lifting up one side. But never hurts to be cautious i suppose.

u/frebay · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

I bought the same on amzn.
Conntek 30-Amp NEMA 10-30P Dryer Plug to 50-Amp Electric Vehicle Adapter Cord for Tesla https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD8S7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Tz4syb71ZFEVN

I dialed the charge down to 30amps and breaker hasn't tripped Bc I think it's pulling 27-28 amps.

u/Boston_TD_Party · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

I live in a condo, where I won't be able to install a 50A circuit.

I do however have a NEMA 10-30 for my dryer in my garage. I'll use a 10-30 to 14-50 adapter and set my Model 3 to charge at 24A.
Should be good to charge at about 22 miles/hour using the UMC.

Good enough for my needs until I move to a new place.

u/achtagon · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

I just got a set of 4 of these and they are the premium option. My set was $133 but from a shady online dealer usa tool (had to wait a month but got them). Feels amazing to be under a car not propped by my shady stands https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

u/pblood40 · 2 pointsr/cars

Clog fuel filters, clog injectors, gum up your fuel pump,dirty your MAF, etc. Lots of bad stuff that will make a $1000 car a write off

https://www.amazon.com/Koehler-Enterprises-RA990-Multi-Use-Transfer/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=transfer+pump&qid=1555898667&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/sdhoodlum · 2 pointsr/500e

Yes, that's right. I replaced the stock charger with this:
reddit!

u/secessus · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

I've been surprised how much I like/use leveling blocks. I got this kind, but they are all basically chunks of plastic.

OP: They take up a lot of space so I wouldn't make them a gift unless I knew the recipient was interested them.

u/toseawaybinghamton · 2 pointsr/Tools

Pretty happy with these

u/BucketCharlie · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets
u/LastTreestar · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

I bought these for this eventuality, but I haven't had to use them yet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028PJ10K

u/Backstop · 1 pointr/cars

Amazon has a replacement spout that is just the old-style bendy tube.

u/MiniXP · 1 pointr/cars

Yes, this has been a law for 10 or 15 years I think.

It seems like I always end up spilling more gas trying to get these caps to work than I do with the old normal gas cans.

I use one of these little siphons most of the time now. You shake it and the ball bearing in the end gets the siphon started.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E

u/effRPaul · 1 pointr/ToyotaTacoma

I just did mine (including tranny & transfer case) at 60k miles and the fluids didn't seem too bad (not sludgy or totally black). I will not be doing it every 30k.

​

It was not easy. We finally paid someone to weld a 10mm hex socket into the front diff drain plug as we tried everything to get that fucker out and stripped it in the process.

​

It will be easy next time, though.

​

PS This is the most awesome thing for sucking out/pumping in fluids

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwho7rBRDxARIsAJ5nhFpOMbtsNP56Tf0kjUqSupPS_-R7M1tMbWK9wJ-NGLJn1GLKhQk0kmAaApiSEALw_wcB&hvadid=177593407371&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032190&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7534587416468078734&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-32496863643&hydadcr=7482_9586280&keywords=mityvac+mv7201&qid=1566842670&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/RedOctobyr · 1 pointr/lawnmowers

I have one of these, I like it. Metal, 5 gallons, seals well, is easy to fill/pour. I got mine at Lowe's.

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JZWyDb6G82GAE

u/moneyshift · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

I like ESCO flat tops, particularly in cases where the vehicle has a flat jack pad:

https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

u/alltheuntold · 1 pointr/cars

Okay, so I am looking at getting a car still and want to try and do some of my own work.

When you jack up the car, what do are you supposed to use (if you don't have one of those big lifts)? [Something like this?](http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CMFN4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB](http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CMFN4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB)[Or this?](http://www.amazon.ca/Torin-T42002-Jack-Stands-Pairs/dp/B0028JQYPG/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_3_4HVK?ie=UTF8&refRID=15QJZ8WECKR5ASTT53JC) And how many would I need, like just to lift one side of the car (so 2)?

u/PlainsPrepper · 1 pointr/prepping

I know you're not looking for a siphon but I'd recommend one of these for transferring gas.
Just put it in the can shake up and down and you're good to go

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E

u/WhyBrain · 1 pointr/sportster

Extreme Max 5001.5044 Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack - 1100 lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_rGt1Ab1YM58V5
I have this and it works perfectly for me. It lifts the bike tall enough to change your tires and stable enough too. And it's easy to store when you are not using it.

u/eddy159357 · 1 pointr/volt

I'm sure you could take it to an electrician and have them repair the cable.

Otherwise https://www.amazon.com/Zencar-Portable-Electric-Charging-Compatible/dp/B075GJK2S9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=chevy%2Bvolt%2Blevel%2B1%2Bcharger&qid=1568658560&s=automotive&sr=1-3&th=1 looks pretty solid and can do 120V and 240V charging.

u/Bobb_o · 1 pointr/BoltEV

Bought this for $300 and it's working well

MUSTART Level 2 Portable EV... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077DC39J9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Best of my utility company gives a $250 rebate for putting in the L2 charger. Could have gotten a "free" 16a charger that was listed at $220 but I figured I have 32a why not get all of it?

u/haole1 · 1 pointr/leaf

It's the JuiceBox Pro EVSE on amazon for $600.

They also have the regular JuiceBox (without the wifi extras) for $500.

u/andy2na · 1 pointr/teslamotors

you will want the one made specifically for EVs, the one you linked wont work.

This one will:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD8S7C

u/Spastic_pinkie · 1 pointr/pics
u/never_ever_lever · 1 pointr/Cartalk

harbor freight has 3 ton jack stand for $21 a pair right now. I would have bought them but their locking mechanism is shit imo. I got these instead still waiting for them to be delivered https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Stands/dp/B00026Z3E0. Going to put concrete blocks under the tires too when I lift the car up. Just bought some nice solid rubber chocks at Harbor freight for like $7.99 each, way better than the flo tools crap one's. Then went next store to advance auto parts and bought a 2-ton jack that was on sale for $24.99, that I have yet to open.

u/NewDeveloper · 1 pointr/mazda3

Mityvac 7201.

I've never had to take off the drain bolts on any of my cars for over 10 years; I always just mityvac out, remove filter, new filter and then add in new oil. Clean up is a breeze too.

u/DrewSmithee · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Bought one of these a few years ago, great for yard equipment and the like but a total pain if you want to put gas in a car without another funnel. Anyways it's a little cheaper on Amazon:

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LSa6Cb6J7PRR3.

u/mikedt · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

I’ve got this one and have been pretty happy with it. It’s a little bit of a pain to fill - you have to remove the funnel to do so. But I have no problem when it comes to filling lawn and garden gas tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=gas+can+metal+5+gallon&qid=1558726693&s=gateway&sprefix=gas+can+m&sr=8-3

u/pizza9012 · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

You can still get these new

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oEi6Cb118P705

u/rabidchinchilla · 1 pointr/teslamotors

ok, so like the second one I posted. The triangle in the middle isn't part of the plug receptacle. Well, that is an old dryer plug and to use it you would need a 10-30 adapter. Telsa sold these at one time but I don;t believe they do any more. The alternative would be an adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-30-Amp-Electric-Vehicle-Adapter/dp/B00STD8S7C

BUT!!! if you were to use an adapter like the one above, a NEMA 10-30P to 14-50, you must manually set the amps on the screen of the car, otherwise you will overload the circuit. The car will think it's connected to a 14-50 (50 AMP) circuit when its actually connected to a 10-30 (30 AMP) circuit. The standard is to only pull 80% of the circuit so you should set the amps on the screen of the car to 24 when you plug in. This would still give you a charge rate over 7 times faster than a standard 110 outlet.

Edit: and to add, I have no idea where to get one of these adapters locally. They do not have a common use.

u/ThePenisMightier642 · 1 pointr/lawncare

Get a normal can and get rid of all the EPA crap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYNDNM8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_ztQWBb4ZJZ1GS

u/LouLoomis · 1 pointr/PriusPrime

I had an electrician add two NEMA 14-50 outlets (each with a dedicated cable run from my main breaker box) plus a 20A circuit (3 outlets) for power tools. I bought this house 10 years ago and have suffered with a single garage outlet. I was glad to have an excuse to hire an electrician.
I bought this JuiceBox charger. The charging cable is so much heavier than the one that came with the Prius (surprisingly heavier) but it’s worth it. I ordered the charger on the day I bought the car and it took a week to arrive. 5+ hours to charge the Prius meant we weren’t getting the most out of the range. Now it charges in about 2 hours. I love it. And the charger can connect to your WiFi for tracking charging.
A quick tip in case you’re planning to run 240v to your garage. Consider future proofing by running as many outlets as you think you may eventually need. Place at least one close to the door so you can run the 25’ cable to a car parked outside. I think the cables are generally limited to 25’ length. Also, a 40A charger requires a 50A circuit.

u/ImThaBean · 1 pointr/specializedtools

It was designed for working on pick-up trucks.

u/IWantRaceCar · 1 pointr/cars

No touching the drain plug or having to crawl under the car. Can use this to change all your fluids, without getting your "hands dirty". Can become best friends to all your friends/family when you loan it to them for easy oil changes lol.

I bought this one but used off kijiji. It was a great deal. Highly recommend the 7201 model, as it's container size will be big enough to extract all the motor oil.

https://www.amazon.ca/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC

u/TheBadSpy · 1 pointr/Triumph

I've got this (Extreme Max Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack - 1100 lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KPQEzbC5ZMP4Q). It's been pretty useful for chain stuff and other work I've done on the bike.

However, I got a Triumph center stand from a neighbor for cheap, so the jack doesn't get much use anymore. I'm on a bonneville, but I'd recommend a center stand to anyone. It's very convenient.

u/dirtisgood · 1 pointr/mazda3

I hate referencing amazon, but this is probably all you need. $20 and it might save your life. link: jack stands

u/je_ff · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Not cheap, but of the several kinds I own, these are my favorite.

ESCO 10498 Jack Stand, 3 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019JVIPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LASlzbAFRVNNE

u/jasonsowder · 1 pointr/RVLiving

These guys. Mixed results for me, they do much better on asphalt but gravel sometimes they becone damaged. I still like em though

Tri-Lynx 00015 Lynx Levelers - 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_McYADbZF2238R

u/LukeShootsThings · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

My family has several Eagle gas cans that are many decades old and still get the job done.

u/bucknutz · 1 pointr/homelab

Get some car jack stands under the server, then undo the cage nuts. Easy extract, and you get bonus jack stands when you're done.

u/hudshmote · 1 pointr/jetski

You could siphon it out. It would take a while but there would be much less work involved.

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E

u/LazyBakedOnion · 1 pointr/HondaRebel300

I took the rubber pads off my footpegs and then I flipped my footpegs upside down and put a Jack Stand underneath each one, the bike will balance back and forth I propped up each side with some random stuff laying around (i used a bucket and a spray paint can lol)

​

It's def jerry rigged together, but a quick and cheap fix, also it's extremely sturdy.

u/Lothsahn_ · 1 pointr/leaf

Holy cow. Did they sell you a Level 3 or level 2 charger?

A L3 charger uses the CHADEMO port on the Leaf (the left side one) and you do NOT want to be doing that on a daily basis. It's going to heat up and wear the pack out quickly. It is highly unusual to have such an installation in a home. If you do have such a beast, you are going to definitely want to limit the charge rate--probably around 10kW.

A L2 charger uses 220-240V and charges at a rate of 6.6kW on a 2018 Leaf. It plugs into the J1772 port on the front of the car. This is what you should install in your home as it charges roughly 5x faster than L1 charging at 110V. This would take 6 hours to go from 0-100%.

A L1 charger charges on a standard 110V outlet (like you use for any appliance in your house). It charges at a rate of 1.5kW. For a 40 kWh leaf, this would take something like 29 hours from 0-100%.

Typically a home user will have a 50A 220V circuit run to a plug on the wall. Then you would buy a Juicebox Pro 40 and charge with that:
https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-Electric-Vehicle-Charging-Station/dp/B00UB9R4KO?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-brave-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00UB9R4KO

If the charger is tripping the circuit breaker, something definitely sounds wrong. Keep in mind 22kWh is 100 Amps of current, which is a TON of power. You may be over-drawing what the house can provide and this could be a safety issue.

P.S. This info is valid for the US. Countries with 220V standard electrical service may differ.

u/jfaulc · 1 pointr/electricvehicles

Here's an example of an EVSE that isn't listed. This one's straight from China.

u/smythbdb · 1 pointr/StupidCarQuestions

I only buy those metal cans with the funnel attached (I think eagle makes them) they're expensive but save so much frustration.

Edit: these. actually not a bad price, the last time I bought one it was like $55

u/Ceithre · 1 pointr/PKA

or buy this...

u/aquastorm · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I don't have an extension cable, just the adapter I linked but evse does sell extension cables as well and since I've had a good experience with their adapter I'd probably buy extension cable from them as well if I needed one.

I would assume this would work but I'd be Leary daisy chaining third party adapters together which is what you'd be doing. Is the extension cable necessary for your use scenario? Could you get by with just the adapter and your UMC?

Here's evse's adapter. You could email them and ask them if it would be ok to use the adapter and extension cord together.

https://www.evseadapters.com/collections/adapters-for-tesla/products/heavy-duty-nema-14-50-extension-cord-for-tesla-20-ft

I'll also add that I just searched on amazon for Tesla 10-30 adapter and found this adapter. It also lists an extension cable that is frequently purchased together. I can't speak to the quality of these though but the reviews look positive. Always hard to tell. All I can say is the one I have has worked flawlessly and I used it nearly every day for a year. Here's the one from amazon though.

Conntek 30-Amp NEMA 10-30P Dryer Plug to 50-Amp Electric Vehicle Adapter Cord for Tesla https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD8S7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AvltybT8SJW5Z

u/_Skylake_ · 1 pointr/Dualsport

Do yourself a favor and get a motorycyle lift. A damn good investment, I assure you. Makes cleaning and maintenance much,much easier. Especially cleaning and lubing the chain.

Having the bike lifted of the ground would be great for winter time storage, as well, as it will take pressure of the suspension and tires; allowing you to avoid getting flat spots on the tires from sitting for a long time.

Plus, bikes looks cool af on a lift.

u/mrmax1984 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

[Edit] Just saw chip812's post. As he mentioned, you can skip the jack and stands and just get some ramps if you prefer. I have never used them though. Also, depending on how low your vehicle rides, you might not even need any lifting whatsoever to reach the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.

You will need a a jack stand(they come in pairs), such as these.

The emergency jack that came with your van for flat-tire repair will do for the lifting, but you should probably buy a regular floor jack, such as: this. Consult your van's manual to find out where the jack points are.

You can buy a catch-pan from your local auto-parts store. There are open-top ones, and then there are ones that seal with a lid, so that you can store the spent oil for a while before disposing of it. Up to you in which you prefer.

The auto-parts store will have a huge catalog next to the oil/air filters, which will tell you the type of filter from each manufacturer that fits your van. Not much difference between them, so go with what you're comfortable spending.

As for conventional vs. synthetic, I'm not terribly well-versed on the benefits. I've read that synthetic oil lasts longer before breaking down, compared to conventional oil. I know many sports cars require synthetic oil. If your van is a general commuter vehicle, then maybe save a few pennies and go conventional. Again, largely up to you. Brand doesn't matter terribly, as they're all pretty much safe/good for your particular vehicle.

Also note, use the containers that the new oil came in to store the old oil. The auto-parts store will have a recycling container in the back where they will let you dump it.

u/the_mighty_moon_worm · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

Here you go

Your wheel is probably not thick enough, these are worth the price.

u/avatarKLM · 1 pointr/preppers

Thanks for the recommendations. Coleman's has 4 for $99 used which is pretty good.

Here are some links and reviews of No-Spill.

u/MyopicVitriol · 1 pointr/Seattle

If it's really daily as you say, a set of these would be a great investment.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Wheel-Dolly-Wide-Hoist/dp/B003W0F33O

Hopefully you don't live on a hill.

u/jubxxxjub · 1 pointr/KTM

I've taken my 390 engine out like 5 times with a scissor lift from Amazon that was like $70 bucks, it's rated up to like 1000lbs or something

Edit: Extreme Max 5001.5044 Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dV3PCbWV6FQBJ

u/daewootech · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I saw this the other day if you really need to save the money, I dunno if I would trust my expensive car to a $200 charger but 🤷‍♂️

Zencar Level 2 EV Charger(100-240V,16A,25ft+3ft) Portable EVSE Home Electric Vehicle Charging Station Compatible with Chevy Volt, Nissan Leaf, Fiat, Ford Fusion (NEMA6-20 with Adapter for NEMA5-15) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GJK2S9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VkHSCbMA4P9TR

u/TheModerateTraveller · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

If you think you're going to finish the keg you could always just use a hand pump. They sell them at HD or Harbor Freight for a couple bucks. You'd just have to worry about oxidation if you leave the O2 on the beer if you don't finish it.

I do this to push sanitizer through so I don't waste CO2.

This was $5 at harbor freight: Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yld.AbJMSA7W1

u/crypto_took_my_shirt · 1 pointr/worldnews

Even the siphon hoses are out of stock at Amazon Canada :/

https://www.amazon.ca/Super-Siphon-Hose-Pack/dp/B000ZORJ1E

u/LifeIsALie · 1 pointr/overlanding

I actually got this set . They go under the back and it keeps the whole thing pretty stable. I do like your idea more. It’s the one thing I feel like can definitely improve upon right now. One sharp movement or forget to chock the wheels and I’m rolling right off the stands I’ve got

u/fuckyeahhiking · 1 pointr/longbeach

Tracked it down...it's a fluid extractor:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR7TC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got it when I got a car that takes synthetic oil, and I love anything DIY, especially if it's saving you a ton! It will pretty much pay for itself after a use or two.

You have to put some elbow grease into pumping it, but once the oil gets going it's very easy and doesn't take too long at all! When it fills up, I'll just put the old oil in an empty oil bottle and take it to Pep Boys, which does free oil recycling. :)

u/iheartrms · 1 pointr/preppers

You're welcome! Happy I could help.

Speaking of my spare gas, I'm just about to order one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CYNDNM8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469220954&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=replacement+spout&dpPl=1&dpID=41NzOnHgyZL&ref=plSrch

My plastic gas container has one of those EPA approved annoying as hell spouts on it. So I'm replacing it with this "water" spout. Coincidentally I was low on gas but not out yet and needed to get somewhere just a couple weeks ago so I poured in my gallon and was reminded of just what a pain the standard spout is. So I'm getting a better spout. You may want to also.

u/Traveler606 · 1 pointr/Harley

I bought this a couple of months ago for a rear shock swap on my Road Glide and it worked perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196PAZ1S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

u/M_izag · 1 pointr/cars

Additional Notes:

I hope this is the right subreddit. Putting this first because it is the important part. I am looking for a sort of project car but one for someone that has no mechanic experience. I have an engineering degree, but have never worked with automotives. My current car is good enough to last at least til december so I am looking for a car that I can work on until then and eventually have it become my daily car. I want this to be a learning experience so by the end of it all I will be somewhat efficent at basic mechanic work as well as tuning, performance upgrades, etc. I have never owned a manual car but desire this so that I learn how to drive stick as well as they seem to have the most viability when talking about upgrades and working on them. I plan on using 3k USD on the inital purchase but if I find something for less then the remainder of the 3k will go straight back into the car being purchased. I also plan on spending between 300-600 USD a month on parts to gradually upgrade performance and eventually apperance. The idea is putting roughly 6-7k into a car and make it a learning experience instead of just purchasing something I wont want to work on. I also have a mechanic that can look at the car during the initial purchase but any links that will help with identifying problems especially for specific cars will be appreciated.


Can you do Minor/major work on your own vehicle:

I just purchased a the following as starter mechanics tools

u/redditatwork500 · 1 pointr/cars

I have this one: link

Easy to use. You tip it into whatever you want to fill then press and hold the button behind the spout. Gas comes out and you release when you get to the amount you want. No leaks, no spills, stupid simple to use. Only downside is that it can be a bit of a pain in the ass to get the top off. Takes some force sometimes.


Edit: I am seeing people having issues with the o-ring. I haven't had an issue with mine and it sits with gas in it a lot(I bought it for working on a snowblower). Not saying it isn't an issue I just don't have experience with it.

u/imnotminkus · 1 pointr/prius

I debated between ramps and jack stands for my C. I ended up getting these jack stands for $16 (now $20). They're cheaper than ramps, easier to use (no worry of driving up/off of the ramps) and I can rotate the tires while changing the oil, too. The V is about 3,300 lb, so the 2 ton jacks should be fine, but the 3 ton ones are only $26 if it makes you feel better.

u/dramboxf · 1 pointr/santarosa

My wife bought us this one, and I have to say it is stupid easy to refill a generator with the do-hickey on top. Plus, the mouth is so large that when you're re-filling it at the gas station, the pump handle doesn't keep clicking in your hand.

u/bigfatsanta69 · 1 pointr/Dualsport

Tire iron kit,
Bead buddy (helps when taking the tire off), Lift (this has worked well for my KLR, combine with a couple of jack stands for more stability)

Other things that help: rubber mallet, needle nose pliers, SERVICE MANUAL, torque wrenches.

u/senatorpjt · 1 pointr/orlando

For oil, use a funnel. For gas, get a kit that converts the gas can to a "water can".

u/montyprime · 1 pointr/volt

I see no need for 240v. It is perhaps a move to future proof, but not needed right now. 12amp will charge the car overnight even if the battery is empty. As long as you have a good 15amp socket that can handle 12amp or a 20amp socket, you are fine to charge overnight.

If you want to leave a charger outside all the time too, I would recommend using a 3rd party charger to avoid having the factory one nabbed. I leave the factory one in my car for trips. I use this one every day and leave it outside: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075GJK2S9 It can work with 240v also if you do upgrade the outlet in the future, no need to buy another charger. The ends are easily removable and replaced for different outlet shapes with a screw driver.

You can also keep any charger out of the weather in a deck box if you need to charge outside because of no garage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BWNZKI0 I use this one, cut holes in the back at the top. The charger sits in the box out of the elements and keeps the charger off the ground and makes it a little harder for someone to see it and nab it so I don't have to constantly put it in the car or inside. Also this is free standing, so no need to mount to your house. You can put it in the best spot near where your car parks and not on the wall of the house.

u/ALGR6TS · 1 pointr/teslamotors

You just need a set of these to fix problems like this.
http://amzn.com/B003W0F33O

u/threemetalbeacon · 0 pointsr/preppers

It's a water jug, not a jet fighter. How hard can filling it up be? What kind of question is this?

Maybe you're thinking about filling them up at the last minute before an emergency? If that's the case I'll say don't do that. Fill them both up now using whatever reasonable means you have at your disposal and maybe alternate emptying one out (either use it all up or dump it) and refilling it every month so you have a nice fresh backup supply if you need it.

Plain non-perfumed Clorox is great for disinfecting and preserving water. While eight drops per gallon is prescribed, I'll assume you get your water from an already clean municipal source. In that case, maybe just put 10 drops in your filled jug before putting it away.

If your concern is filling it up quickly in the field, in a hostile environment, and from a shallow water source I'll recommend something like this to include in your kit.

Otherwise... I don't know... this question is kinda...

u/MSD0 · 0 pointsr/engineering

No-Spill makes a good one. Has a spring loaded valve on the back of the spout that you push with your thumb.

u/hayzen77 · 0 pointsr/teslamotors

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD8S7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Tz4syb71ZFEVN

Thanks for the tip. I saw this adapter on Amazon as well. Do you think it could be just as good?

u/fuckitdownvote · 0 pointsr/cars

Do a top-side oil change.

All you need is this $80 manual pump from Amazon, a new oil filter for you car, and the tool to open the oil filter housing (which depends on your car).

This is safer and much easier than going under the car. Plus you don't risk stripping your oil pan.

This won't work if your car doesn't have a dipstick (like some BMWs)

u/ace72ace · -33 pointsr/CampingGear

When you camp like this you typically cook/clean/meal prep on your open tailgate so having a level surface is ideal. Also helps to not sleep on an incline. Many campsites are sloped and uneven, so aligning your vehicle for the easiest access and best views can be a challenge.

Camping trailers and RVs typically have scissor jacks on the corners for this reason. The more common method to level your vehicle is to use these lego style blocks. However that involves trial and error and can take a while and you are limited in the adjustments to the thickness of the blocks.

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K

This design allows for finer adjustments, depending on how good you are using the gas and brake pedals simultaneously. 😎👍