(Part 2) Best garden fertilizers according to redditors
We found 1,059 Reddit comments discussing the best garden fertilizers. We ranked the 421 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
> A branch taken from a tree can survive longer than a leaf does and can even regrow roots in some cases to form a new plant.
In fact, that's exactly what root powder is for.
As a long term employee in the Denver cannabis industry, this strikes me as one of the saddest examples of market failure in the history of the world... And what's more ironic, is it's being continued primarily by a bunch of dumbass right-wingers who claim to be all about market driven economics!
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What a bunch of horse shit!
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myclobutanil (MCB) is an amazing fungicide. Farmers the world over use Eagle 20 on just about EVERYTHING, because it's cheap and it's effective AF! Unfortunately we discovered that when oxidized this compound yields cyanide gas, among other toxic nastiness. MCB can be safely eaten however!! This type of scientific data was only found because Colorado democratically chose to legalize and regulate cannabis.
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Imagine a future where this type of process could be utilized to the benefit of everybody, not just those lucky enough to live in a magical place like Colorado!
Fig rust is caused by spores from the fungus + humidity. It's only on the underside of the leaves that the spores are made when the fungus is further along it's life cycle. If you spray copper it kills the current fungus and prevents the existing spores from causing more rust for a while on whatever you've sprayed. Dispose of any fallen leaves (don't compost them because they are a source of more spores)
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this is a good thread about fig leaf rust
copper concentrate for spray
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edit: wanted to give you a better reference link for fig rust and what to do etc
...and just to add on some info, they are both varieties of quartz which is silicon dioxide (SiO2). You can just purchase food grade diatomaceous earth if you want to include it in any recipes. It will save you lots of money and have the same effect in any elixir!
Your soil contains only low levels of time release fertilizer. On its own it is inadequate. I've been mostly using the "Moisture Control" version of the same product for 15 years or so.
You do need to start fertilizing your plant. I use General Hydroponics Flora series but you need a meter to measure how much fertilizer used and keep track of the pH.
Peter's (now called Jack's Classic) 20-20-20 fertilizer is easy to use for all purpose use with tomatoes and the like. It has all the micro nutrients you'll need. When your plants start fruiting you can change to a "bloom" formula.
A high potassium version of Jack's made for tomatoes is here.
pH strips are always a good idea. I use these. Don't use pH drops- the pH runoff color of soil readings can be easily distorted giving inaccurate results. They are also more expensive long term than other soil pH testing methods.
Looks like you've got some cool stuff there, but are lacking primary/base nutes. The GObox is great for soil, but for DWC I would recommend their Flora Series nutes instead, which is also available with a couple other great products bundled in the GH Performance pack
For the most part, I stick to a single line of nutes so I can just follow the feeding schedule. It's not uncommon for growers to substitute a couple products with the rough equivalent from another brand. However, I wouldn't even know where to start with so many different product lines there. I would suggest you read up on those products you have to find their contents and role in the nutrient line so you can use them effectively together.
This run I used:
Potting Soil with Earthworm Castings, Pumice, BioChar and Dr. Earth Veg. I built the soil up for reusing after each grow. So far everything in my veg room is beautiful with no deficiencies. I'll top dress with Dr. Earth Bloom when I switch to flower. Here is my flower room at week 6 that I top dressed with the Bloom 2 weeks ago. The one on the back right was losing color before the nutrient switch. It's probably going to be an early finisher. OG Ringo is an 8 week Indica dominant strain.
I think you have early blight.
It is a fungus.
You should remove all of the diseased leaves and stems and give it a good dose of fungicide.
Once this stuff gets going, there usually isn't anything you can do about it except weep for your unborn tomatoes. But, you might be able to slow it.
Dispose of the infected plant material in your trash, not in your compost.
I use Diatomaceous Earth (here) to get rid of gnats and other bugs. It’s harmless to humans (you can technically eat it) but to bugs it’s like broken glass. I suggest re potting the plant (it can be in the same container just different soil) and them mixing DE into it evenly.
Disclaimer about Diatomaceous Earth, DON’T breath it in! Seriously wear a dust mask when handling it. It has a high concentration in silica, which while harmless if digested, can be dangerously breathed in in large quantities because silica will stay stuck in your lungs forever and can cause respiratory issues later in life.
That being said, you don’t gotta worry about that after it’s mixed in the soil and has been wetted down because it will not longer be in the air. And will never puff up again to be breathed in. 100% safe once put in the pot in soil
I used it on my plants that had gnats and they are completely gone
Cool yo congrats on the soon to be first grow! I'm no expert but I'll toss in my 2 cents.
The tent will support the lights (22 lbs), usually they give you poles for the roof to hang any equipment. You might wanna look into those adjustable carabiner type things for hanging lights and equipment.
I can't tell you how to hook up the filter but I'm sure there are instructions and dozens of YouTube videos. Depending on where you want to vent it to you may need some flex duct, but if the carbon filter is just for the smell you can have it exhaust directly into the room the tent is in, with a passive intake or something.
Good call on running some bag seed first to get experience and test your set up, just remember if you see signs of a male kill it immediately - don't want to polinate your new tent!
You do not need C02, at least not yet. Get through your first harvest and then reevaluate. Adequate air flow will give you plenty of C02.
As for nutes, fox farm soil is well reviewed, and after about 30 days the soil will run out of nutes. You can top it with fertilizer or similar things, or buy liquid nutrients and add them with water. I've been using
General Hydroponics Flora Series Performance Pack https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008UCCCII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_w2pMzb74TDKRG and it seems to be working great, easy to follow week by week schedule and everything, and at the rate I'm using it I think it will last for at least a few more grows.
This is a long post... So in summary:
Lastly, don't helicopter parents the seedlings. Germinate them, chuck them under a couple cfls like 6 inches away, don't over water them, no nutes, and give them time! Most minor problems that may come up in the first couple weeks (like a bit of nute burn from hot soil) will sort themselves out.
Good luck!
Edit: the carabiner things VIVOSUN Pair of 1/8" Adjustable Grow Light Reflector Clip Hanger Rope Ratchet with Zinc Alloy Internal Gears 75lb Each https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00P7TZNPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VfqMzbYWA2VT9
I'm sorry, but I do not trust Pennington at all when it comes to turf recommendations, especially since they list Kentucky-31 as a proper turf grass.
Unless you have a fescue type that is designed to be cut that short, you really shouldn't be under 2.5". Even if you follow the 1/3rd rule, you'd need to be cutting as soon as the lawn reaches 3" if you are trying to maintain it with a 2" cut.
Clemson recommends 3 - 3.5" as a general rule of thumb depending on the time of year. (warmer climates compared to Penn St.)
https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/tall-fescue-maintenance-calendar/
Iowa St. recommends 3".
https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2015/11-13/tallfescue.htm
University of Maryland recommends 3-4" for Tall Fescue.
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/plants/mowinggrasscycling-lawns
Of course there's also always Pete from GCI turf on the ol' Youtube who has arguably the best looking Fescue lawn I've seen, and he likes 4.5 - 5" for hit cut height.
I used to work in the industry, and I know how to treat brownpatch. The article you linked is correct as I said that retail stores themselves don't really keep decent fungicides stocked.
However here's what you can get online for it:
Group 1
Clearys 3336F Fungicide
https://www.domyown.com/clearys-3336f-fungicide-p-1345.html
Group 3:
Propiconazole
https://www.domyown.com/propiconazole-143-p-16567.html?sub_id=16568
Eagle 20EW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S6ZZFM/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2EO23QHLO0CX9
Tebuconazole
https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-tebuconazole-36-p-12199.html
Myclobutanil
https://www.domyown.com/myclobutanil-20ew-to-fungicide-p-16654.html
Group 3 and 11:
Armada 50 WDG Fungicide
https://www.domyown.com/armada-50-wdg-fungicide-p-1350.html
Group 11:
Fluoxastrobin
https://www.domyown.com/fame-granular-fungicide-p-15599.html
https://www.domyown.com/disarm-fungicide-p-13524.html
Azoxystrobin
https://www.domyown.com/heritage-fungicide-p-1343.html
Other (group M):
chlorothalonil
https://www.domyown.com/daconil-ultrex-turf-care-fungicide-p-2309.html
For Brown patch prevention when conditions first appear that favor a fungus outbreak (Lots of rain, followed by hot humid temps) A preventative application can be applied, and is good for 28 days.
For curative it's a bit more work. It typically takes up to 4 applications, 2 of one group, and one of another group, and then one of either the same group or back to the first group. All 14 days apart.
Typically my fungicide treatment revolves around the cheaper group 3 and group 1 products, with group 11's thrown in for rotation to prevent resistance from developing. If I'm doing Group 1 for my primary, my secondary application will typically be something like Armada. since it has both Group 3 and 11, if I'm using a Group 3 as the main application I'll use something like Heritage for my group 11.
You have to be really careful about where you get your information, as a lot of magazine articles or brochures are written by people who haven't really done the research. I don't trust Turf Mag or sales media to inform me on turf, the same way I don't just the verge to teach someone how to build a computer.
Hey, everyone starts somewhere, and look at it this way.. you made it further than anyone that just decided not to try.
I don't use rockwool when it comes to DWC/RDWC. A bag of cheap lava rock from home depot or the like, break it up with a hammer, fit it into your net pot, you're golden. As long as you rinse it pretty good anyway, otherwise your water will be red for a long time, and it won't be easy on your pump either. I don't use rockwool for the plain fact it isn't needed, and at worst can lead to root rot(the reason I don't use it). As long as you have water splashing onto the hydroton/lava rock/whatever you decide to use will wick it up to the plant, and has the added bonus of there always being o2 available.
I prefer to use the tough totes from home depot/lowes as opposed to 5 gallon buckets.
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Friendly-Biological-Fungicide/dp/B00VXQG23O/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=southern+ag&qid=1562899180&s=gateway&sr=8-9
I also add just a dab of this stuff. It's basically Hydrogard.. But countless times more concentrated, and more importantly.. countless times cheaper. I don't know if it will cure your root problem, but it will certainly help keep them at bay and slow down what you do have going on.
I read into promix HP mycorrhizae, and apparently it's a soiless hyrdo medium (head's up, it's peat based, so as it breaks down it will become more acidic). So I'd recommend just the raw salts over any bottled nutrients as they're far cheaper, you can specifically choose and dial ingredients, and they're the same thing that's in bottled nutes anyways.
For a solid basic formula, an equal amount (weighed on scale) of calcium nitrate, 4-18-38 base fertilizer (all your micronutrients are in here), and adjust your pH up with magnesium sulfate (it's good to keep this around 1/4 to 1/3 the weight of the other salts so you may need to pH down your solution since your tap water is so alkaline).
If you want to add different ingredients, you can switch up the salts, potassium silicate for silica (great in a foliar spray), monopotassium phosphate is the same as a PK booster (0-52-34), etc.
Here's are the salts I mentioned on amazon (you'd surely get a better price buying in bulk from a local place though)
https://www.amazon.com/Calcium-Nitrate-Fertilizer-15-5-0-0-2lb/dp/B00DVWG7MY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466373780&sr=8-3&keywords=calcium+nitrate
https://www.amazon.com/Fertilizer-Nutrients-Greenway-Biotech-Inc/dp/B012E72PTK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466374062&sr=8-2&keywords=4-18-38
https://www.amazon.com/Magnesium-Sulfate-Greenway-Biotech-Inc/dp/B00FKB0PNQ/ref=sr_1_16_s_it?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1466374168&sr=1-16&keywords=epsom+salt
https://www.amazon.com/Monopotassium-Phosphate-Soluble-Hydroponics-Aquariums/dp/B00TZTYK2Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1466374233&sr=1-1&keywords=monopotassium+phosphate
https://www.amazon.com/Silicate-Soluble-Silica-Supplement-Plants/dp/B00J2WVAM4/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1466374279&sr=1-2&keywords=potassium+silicate
This run I used:
Potting Soil with Earthworm Castings, Pumice and BioChar. So far plants are beautiful with no deficiencies. Fertilizing with Dr. Earth Veg. and Dr. Earth Bloom dry amendments.
> was ignorant and unaware of how to remedy her issues. But now, I'm back with a vengeance.
theres no nutrients in that mix which is fine for the first 2 weeks. have you thought if you want to go bottle vs organic? you might want to add one or all of these later: kelp meal/, kelp extract(trace minerals), oyster shell (calcium/chitin/), neem meal(integrated pest managment and nitrogen, gypsum (sulfur), dr earths organic fertilizer..
PHEW that was a lot of links. If you had to pick two id go with dr earths fertilizer with the liquid kelp and some quality compost preferrably local but this is good in a pinch.
theres bottle organics with biobizz thats not too expensive. they have a starter pack for $25.
by the way if you are having issues with PH you may or may not want to add a teaspoon or two of dolomite lime. this brings PH up to 7.0 as it is alkaline. this is good for PEAT based mixes as peat is acidic at about 5.5-6.0.
Since we all love videos heres one thing to take a look at
if you want to go bottle fox farms trio is popular or you can use pure blend pro grow/ bloom.
Looks like fungus. Try using this product.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015X6FIYS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AX6XB8XK2JAWT&psc=1
Or thishttps://www.amazon.com/Eagle-20-EW-Fungicide-Pint/dp/B004S6ZZFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1498485935&sr=1-1&keywords=eagle+fungicide
http://greenleafaquariums.com/ is good if you want prepackaged combos.
You could also buy them in bulk.
KNO3 - https://www.amazon.com/Spectracide-Stump-Remover-Granules-HG-66420/dp/B004GVYXKC
KH2PO4 -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TZTYK2Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use Seachem Flourish for trace.
Some compost, worm castings, manure or composted manure added to the soil when transplanting outdoors will help feed the plants.
You can also add amendments like bone meal, blood meal, kelp meal.
For outdoor fertilizer I've used jack's classic, works well and has been around forever.
veg https://www.amazon.com/Peters-Classic-20-20-20-Purpose-Fertilizer/dp/B005LKNCZY
flower https://www.amazon.com/Jacks-Classic-10-30-20-Blossom-Booster/dp/B009YOIABY/
Get some food grade diatomaceous earth
Nature's Wisdom Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth 1 lb. Jar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00404X0AE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_slj1CbT7Q751N
Get the prime one of this manufacturer .
I can speak on this manufacturer as a purchased it. Sprinkle on and around counters windows patio doors I'm cabinets around plants etc.
Pet safe , don't allow it to get wet .
The ants will go in the DE and eat it , the silica will cut into them internally , also some will take it back to nest before the die, other pest that eat the ants will also die,
Gotta add it in the soil.
Great White Mycorrhizae, 4 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU8JKR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FarWzb0F08WWH
Real Growers Recharge (8oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J1CAEIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8arWzbSGAZKV3
I 1000% guarantee you if you take a sample and inoculate an agar plate, and incubate, you will observe microbes. You could inoculate your soil further with expensive (but apparently amazing, game changing) mycorrhizal inoculants like Great White or simply by supplementing with compost tea. Worms are beneficial in pretty much any soil situation and even in certain styles of hydroponics.
I know there was a big argument on this sub recently, but Rooting hormone works really well for me. It's inexpensive and I dip the end of each prop I get into it, most of them have shot out roots already if not full pups.
I actually use both. Neem oil I combine with dish soap and water and use as a preventative spray. I mist my plants maybe once every 2 weeks. Copper fungicide I use if the problem is getting out of control in tandem with neem. Copper once a week. I dont have any issues since I grow indoor but my tomatoes get fungus infections every year after a wet period followed by a really warm one
I linked the concentrate which you dilute in water. They have a ready to use version also from the same company. Just more $ for less.
Bonide 811 Copper 4E Fungicide 16oz (473ML) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSULSHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uycqDb7DVNPP8
Bloom is good but it has really low nutritional value the, there is hardly any NPK. I use all organic dry amendments now with pretty good results. There are a ton of cheap options out there and you can just top feed with dry amendment, any guano that is high in phosphorus and light in nitrogen will be good. just try to get your NPK around 284.
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this is a pretty cheap option, i havent used this one but i do have their bat guano.
https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Earth-707P-Organic-Fertilizer/dp/B0047COGFW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=NPK+284&qid=1566193863&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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Down to earth organics has some good products too. With most of these you can just top dress and scratch it in the surface and water, you will only need it once a month or so, then watering with your Big Bloom will help add the microbes to break it all down. =D
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Either way will be watchin your grow! Have a good one.
Is the lettuce planted in a rock wool cube or something that can hold a lot of moisture? Zooming in on the photo there looks to be something slimy and green. Whatever that is it's most likely your problem.
Also, if you did use some kind of rock wool, I've found that i get better results not having them in an eb and flow setup. Imo it's better to have the plant just go naked roots in expanded clay. You want them to get oxygen! If you want a preventative beneficial bacteria that will out compete the bad bacteria and protect your roots I recommend southern ag garden friendly fungicide.
Southern Ag Garden Friendly Biological Fungicide,16oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VXQG23O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gzKtDb4BZTZH4
Super cheap and you only literally need a few ml in 40 to 50gallon reservoir. Haven't had root issues since.
Is that a soil pot in the middle of the grow bed? I'm no expert, but I feel like that could cause you a lot of problems, especially if it has nutrients already in it. Also, doesn't the soil get too wet? You might want to consider germinating your seeds using the paper towel method, and then transferring them to a soil-less option such as rockwool. Then you wouldn't have to worry about cleaning the peat off.
Here's a link for rockwool off of amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Grodan-A-OK-Starter-Plug-Sheet/dp/B00168EO48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395508987&sr=8-1&keywords=rockwool
Mix these two chemicals together in a sprayer, only need to spray once at the beginning of the year. DILUTE HEAVILY because this stuff is super concentrated. Too much will cause harm.
http://www.amazon.com/Propiconazole-Honor-Guard-Spectrum-Fungicide/dp/B015X6FIYS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-Chemical-Mancozeb-Flowable-Fungicide/dp/B000BWZ9JO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Yep, people eat it, check out the amazon reviews "I went from a teaspoon to a tablespoon within about 6 weeks. Once I got up to higher doses, which I just drank in water, I did really notice a difference"
another review
I did pass a tapeworm or worms after I started DE. Terrible! I've noticed my hair has grown faster. I...I've been gradually loosing the belly pouch I had. ...I started taking DE 10 months ago because my stomach issues, swelling, bloating... they are gone. I am much happier person.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4QW6DZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_qc-GDbSP58QKK
i been watching a lot of mike peace lately and i used his recipe. also splashed together some capn eddy shine juice while i had the measuring stuff out. boiled linseed, denatured alcohol and shellac
You'd have to check about the organic, but something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Great-White-Mycorrhizae-4-oz/dp/B00AU8JKR6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495862193&sr=8-2&keywords=great+white
Yea, I lost a lot of grass because of it. There's this fungicide Amazon that seemed to help. Also, as strange as it sounds, when it pours it seems to kill the fungus. I don't know if there's a lot of acid in the rain or what but it does something to the fungus. Regular watering from my sprinklers doesn't do anything to fix it, it was something with the rain water.
I did make one big mistake. After it was all gone I used a thatch rake to get rid of the dead grass and it seemed to have brought it back. So be careful removing the thatch because it's probably still alive underneath it.
If I find anything else I'll let you know.
Those phosphorus and potassium values look very low (P and K). You could bump them up by working some potassium phosphate evenly into the soil. If you want to do it organically, try adding some bat guano or bone meal for the phosphorus and some greensand or kelp meal for the potassium.
Personally, I think the lower growth isn't gonna be worth the energy to keep. I would focus things on the middle and top sections, maybe just trim off most of the current growth to force some budding in those sparse areas. Up to you though. Sick starter though!
Feed it this: Bonsai Food ... two times a month after a good watering.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4QW6DZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_gV22CbZ9VBBJT
Edit: I don't eat it, I'd forgotten that some people do...
I run all organic and here is a sample of my flower. Pic was taken during trimming.
Anyway, I'll give you my formula.
8ml/g gal of Nature's Nectar Nitrogen (this is derived from fermenting vegetable protein)
8ml/gal Humboldt Bloom Natural (This is derived from composting yucca, kelp, and soft rock phosphate which is used in organics)
2tbsp/5gal Soluble Seaweed (This product is amazing for potassium, iron, micronutrients, humic acid, and it builds a beneficials for rootzone health. It's an amazing product and there are many brands.)
These three products take care of my basic N-P-K. I use several other products to promote root growth and rootzone health, as well as some occasional micronutrients and foliar feeding.
In addition to these first three products add.
1 scoop/5gal of Great White beneficials (These are great for your roots. I use it until day 25 of flower)
8ml/gal Hygrozyme (This products is great for roots. The enzymes activate the beneficials and keep roots clean.)
8ml/gal Mendocino Honey (This product is mostly for feeding beneficials, but it contains a low dose N-P-K, magnesium, and a bunch of trace minerals and micronutrients)
1ml/gal Roots Excelurator (I use this until day 30 flower. It does what it says it will do... Roots grow faster and get bigger.)
During veg I alternate foliar feeding my babies with
15ml/gal Mendocino Cal/mag and then two days later...
10ml/gal Earth Juice Microblast (I foliar every other day during veg in order to avoid micro-nutrient deficiencies later on. )
I feed the above formula every other watering. I plant into 5 gal Happy Frog and immediately give them a half-strength feeding of the above formula (full strength Roots Excelurator). It usually takes 5-7 days for the plants to get dry right after transplant, and on the day they become light I feed plain water. Then the following feeding I switch to full strength nutes, and continue the every other watering-feeding. I give two weeks of flush at the end and the results are great.
I should also note that I don't PH the nutrients. It's not necessary at all, but I do filter my water. Also, I realize this is a somewhat expensive nutrient regimen, but it works fantastically. You can also grow with super-soil, which I am thinking trying soon. I love the idea of planting into soil and then feeding only water the whole time.
Hope this is helpful, good growing!
I, too, live the apartment life. To save on space, I buy compressed coco coir (a soil "fluffer" as I like to call it) that will expand up to 10-15x it's original size once you add water to it, plus it's not too expensive. This is the exact one I use, but there are cheaper options. I like to break of what I need from the brick instead of expanding the entire thing at once. Coco coir has little to no nutrients, but when mixed with perlite (also cheap) will give you an excellent loamy soil consistency/drainage. You could then amend it with some compost to add nutrients (I like to use mushroom compost) and you'll be set. Plus, instead of buying and storing big bags of fertilizer, you can make compost tea from the same bag of compost you used to amend the coco/perlite mix. All of these items will fit in a large plastic bin, which you can also use as a "table" to put your potted plants on when you're not actively mixing your soil. This is just one option I thought of, but I'm sure you could make it work!
You can leave them in that pot longer if you would like. just becareful of them growing to much out the bottom of the pot, you can damage the plant when you transplant. if you dont want to go as big as a 1 gal, you can keep it in a 6 inch, doubling the pot size and it will do fine. When planted in the ground they can grow up to 3 feet!
if you plan on keeping it in a pot, than fertilizing it once a month is fine. here is some good stuff to use.
I love to use coconut fiber. I use the one in the following link. You add water to it and it expands a LOT. So, this package could last a very long time, depending on how big your enclosure is. One has lasted me many years and I still have some left over.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-CocoTek-Growing-Media/dp/B00U1V7NOO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458871593&sr=8-1&keywords=Cocotek
I then add some orchid bark, and lots of peat moss to the top layer. It could potentially be messy, but it is definitely my favorite substrate mix.
Coco coir is best for worms, but coir is actually a sustainable substitute for sphagnum peat moss used in gardening. Peat moss would be a good substitute, but Amazon has a $15 brick of coir that should last you a year. Linky.
I did some amazon searching found this Advanced Nutrients Micro. Am I correct that this would suffice my needs but id also have to purchase the Sensi AB formula as well? Sorry - I am getting a bit confused now.
I got a little pushback on this but I like Mephisto for autos. Read their 'how to' guide for their plants. A couple of the things I like about them is they always send out 'bonus' seeds. The first time I ordered from them I ordered 4 seeds and got 8. Plus they were quick on the draw for answering my email. Opinions on Mephisto vary but for the most part I haven't heard much negative about them. Plus they always send me cool stickers with every shipment LOL. If you follow their 'how to' you'll probably do well. At the moment I'm working on seeding 2 every week so I'm continually harvesting but I have the room and the tents to do that. Lighting I'm no expert on but I'm warming way up to COB's that most people in this sub seem to be in love with. Downside is buying one built is expensive. Upside is everything I've heard about them and from some people on here that I respect is that they're the bomb.
You might be best suited to get your nutes based on what you read online but I make most of my own based on this https://drive.google.com/open?id=1W2oVzX79rwBrOLmXe_tudywjYaHE91U9 it's a pain in the ass but you can save some $$ going this route. I suppliment with this https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Nutrients-Bloom-Micro-Grow/dp/B004FYSDFQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=micro+bloom&qid=1554746704&s=gateway&sr=8-2 when I'm running low or have been lazy :) but I'm sure some of the experts around here can recommend something better and easier.
Anyway I wish you nothing but the best of luck and keep us updated on your progress. We can all learn together and be brothers in weed :)
It's difficult to find in Dubai but "Food Grade Diatomacous Earth" powder is the safest and the most effective way of pest control for my experience. I have ordered it from Amazon and I can say that I am quite happy with the results. It's really effective. My two cats did not show any signs of disturbance or reaction to powder. You just need to reapply the dust time to time since they lose their effectiveness when they get wet due to humidity.
https://www.amazon.com/Harris-Diatomaceous-Powder-Duster-Included/dp/B07D4QW6DZ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=34YG4HEB9FMRI&keywords=diatomaceous+earth&qid=1555146035&s=gateway&sprefix=Diatoma%2Caps%2C226&sr=8-3
Well, fish fertilizer ain't great, but it's cheap as shit and it's easy to use. Here are some examples more ideal and popular products to start with:
Again, fish fert isn't great, but if you're looking to do things on the cheap, it's the way to go during vegetative state. The gallon size only costs like $12 or something at home depot. During flower, you're going to want to use Alaska Morbloom.
If you want to actually grow good shit though, you're going to have to shell out for some better products.
If you're interested in vegetables, I do an equal-parts mixture of coconut coir (that brick expands to almost fill a wheelbarrow), compost, and vermiculite or sand. It's very flaky, holds water well, and is quire airy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003YKDFAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510806223&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=general+hydroponics+micro&dpPl=1&dpID=51%2B5fXIIUzL&ref=plSrch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FYSDFQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510806302&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=advanced+nutrients+micro&dpPl=1&dpID=51EPL9em0LL&ref=plSrch.
Advanced is coco or hydro only I’ll add bloom booster when I’ve thought about which ones to recommend that are cheap...
For the cornmeal it's super cheap at feed stores or even hispanic/Mexican grocery store where you can find it in bulk, 25 or 50 lb bags for almost nothing. As far as synthetics I use this. Can do a combination of both for a faster response. Do this, mow as high as your mower will let you and keep the watering frequency low as it starts to warm up and come out of dormancy and you should see those spots filling in. To speed things up you could put some plugs down in the bare areas and they should send runners out from the inside, the rest of the grass from the outside. I prefer plugs to sod because the plugs will have the deeper roots already in place and can start sending runners laterally while with sod you have to wait for the roots to grow before you start seeing spread. Here's 2 really good threads from gardenweb that I had found when I started learning about my lawn. (1, 2).
You mentioned Randy Lemmon...check out his article on removing the thatch. He mentions it would ruin your St Augustine and that if the thatch really is a problem then aeration is the way to take care of it. Focus on the Take All first though. I know the name sounds like a death sentence for your lawn but it's definitely not and completely reversible.
Yea, i never heard of it before last weekend in a desperate ditch effort to find something that kills bugs and can be gotten on amazon fast lol.
Make sure you have the food grade diatomaceous earth, and not the pool grade. Pool grade is poisonous to all, food grade is killer to insects but mammals can eat it lol.
yea, the fact it never loses its potency since its mechanical is amazing. the only downside is how messy it can be, imagine tossing fine flour all over your house lol.
tonight after work, came home and inspected and have yet to find any mites crawling around. I think it may have worked totally now. I am still going to leave it there for at least another week JUST to be safe, as there may be eggs that will hatch and the newborn mites walk right onto the stuff and die. lol sounds cruel but fuck bugs!
This is the stuff I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D4QW6DZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also dusted the empty hamper we have, and any clothes i toss in the hamper, I dust a little so no insect can live in my dirty clothes till they wash.
buns are more active and happy. I gave them an extra bowl of water JUST in case, as this stuff seems to suck moisture out of the air too, my hands are a bit dry so the buns need more liquid to drink. other than that and making sure they dont get any dust clouds around them, its totally safe. I saw a video of someone's two hedgehogs rolling around in a pile of it like a dust bath lol
Yeah, just as what other people have posted, they are doing good only one of them seems to be struggling a little. get them in some bigger pots and add a few nutes and they should pick up, I'm currently doing my first ever grow this season too (outdoor growing in the uk) and they are doing pretty good.
I got a bio buzz trail pack from amazon, it's decent value as I didn't want to buy gallons of the stuff in case my first attempt wasn't successful. The package enough to support three plants I believe.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00GOI3ULI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498382141&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bio+buzz&dpPl=1&dpID=51qIqhxEXOL&ref=plSrch
I like Silica Blast on Amazon. I've used it for multiple grows now and it's only helped. Makes the leaves stand up really straight I find which is always good when you're trying to maximize how much light gets to all the leaves.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EJZAWA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498245476&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=silica+blast&dpPl=1&dpID=41niBGp%2B15L&ref=plSrch
it would be ALOT better to get better lights and use cheap nutrients than go cheap on the lights and use expensive nutrients,
you can grow amazing plants with extremely cheap nutes, but not amazing or even good plants with to little light.
2nd edit here is a video using jacks 123
edit people have grown amazing plants using cheap nutes from jr petters
I use bleach and H202 as well depending on the use case. I use copper for when I'm spraying soils and keep the others for hydroponic use normally. No specific reason except that the copper stuff is just amazing. I've tried using bleach and water mixed on soil to manage fungus and its okay but a shot with the copper spray and most things just dissolve immediately.
This is what I use but the price on amazon is kinda... ouch, lol.
If you decide to try some it is probably more economical if buying online to shop elsewhere or get the concentrate and mix yourself.
I can't get hydroguard in my country but I found this alternative that is sooo much more concentrated and uses the same bacteria. I had to smuggle it across International borders, but I have enough to last me forever...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VXQG23O?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Really? Something like this is illegal? Miracle-Gro FastRoot Dry Powder Rooting Hormone Jar, 1-1/4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049PLCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1fVvDb1M5F6AN
I have had luck without it though.
If you want simple, cheap and portable then DWC is the way to go. My DWC lettuce setup was super cheap to build and can be moved around easily, and I've had several very successful lettuce grows with it. I just bought a $15 container store plastic drawer and drilled some holes in it for net pots, and piped in some air for airstones. I used two of these powered by one of these. Medium is rockwool based in clay pebbles housed in standard plastic net pots.
So tallying it all up...
Container - $30 (could probably have found something much cheaper)
Air pump - $16
Air stones - $6 x 2 = $12 (could also have probably gotten away with smaller/cheaper stones)
Net pots = $6 (for a dozen, so that's 9 sites plus 3 to grow replacement seedlings to swap in)
Clay pebbles = $10
Rockwool = $16 (for a sheet that will last you through many harvests)
Lettuce seeds = $2
Grand total = $86 for absolutely everything needed (assuming you're using sunlight) you need to grow.
There's a few places I noted where you could probably buy cheaper than I did, so You could probably do the whole thing for under $70.
In terms of tools for assembly you will need a dremel or something similar to cut the holes, since the plastic is pretty tough. I suppose you could manage with some very heavy duty shears, but it would probably be a nightmare to cut by hand. And a drill for the air hose holes. Some black spray paint to keep down algae growth in the water supply would be good too.
Can't speak to climate, but leafy greens are pretty hearty and have continued to thrive during a few very high temp days here, so I suspect they'd do fine in Florida temps.
Yes, I was growing tomatoes. The root system was huge by the time the plant was producing tomatoes. I got about 50 pounds of beefsteak tomatoes from 14 plants out of 64 so I cannot complain about that. The others died from the restricted waterflow. I ended up picking green for my last harvest because it was completely blocked by then.
I switched to DWC and have had much better success with stuff like that. I feel NFT is better for the smaller root systems such as lettuce.
If you're wondering what nutes I used for tomatoes:
General Hydroponics Flora Series
Botanicare Cal Mag Plus
Botanicare Silica Blast
General Hydroponics Liquid Kool Bloom
[http://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Gro-100645-Rooting-Hormone-4-Ounce/dp/B0049PLCS6]
FibreDust Coco Coir Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ4P70A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Have you tried “a popular online auction website”? That’s where I got mine, planted them in spring (kinda late, like...late May), and now the plants are 8’ tall. Super easy, to facilitate growth: I legit just had my first year planting my garden from seed. I have a thriving balcony (nearly “walkthrough”) garden, now. I had no idea planting from seed was so easy. I normally start with transplanting plants. Now it’s gorgeous. Will send pics of entire garden if interested.
Morning glories, cbd cannabis, Passion flower, red Krishna holy basil, khat, a rare yellow saffron, California poppy, red corn poppy, wild dagga, Klip dagga, pretty much, entirely a garden full of herbal therapies. My Mary is getting super stinky buds, too!
And yes, I can’t wait to toke a fresh joint of a Klip dagga flowering plant that I raised myself. Tip; don’t get frustrated if it is just leaves - they typically don’t start growing pods until they’ve hit 6’ tall.
Until then, they just grow huge leaves (to hold the nutrients, just, I presume..,) and then after hitting 6’ they grow pods at the top, then start cascading down the entire plant, from top to bottom.
Just do the following:
I promise as long as you have sun and don’t neglect them, you too can make this happen, in the spring/summer (warmer days of the year, in your climate, wherever it may be).
I think tonight I’m gonna toke what I grew for the first time, so much better satisfying growing it myself and confirming it is klip dagga, rather than getting “Klip dagga petals” from an eBay seller and ending up with subpar unclean wild dagga or whatnot, worrying about adulterants, etc... this is as pure and homey feeling as it gets.
Best of journeys! I believe you can do it!
TLDR: you can - i believe in you!
Would this be good for a few grows for 3 plants? Biobizz NA Try-Pack Indoor Fertilizer, 250ml, 3-Pack https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00GOI3ULI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NP3FDb73EBVZ8
> potassium phosphate
Sorry, I had another question, when you say the above is what you use, do you mean this stuff"
https://www.amazon.com/Monopotassium-Phosphate-Soluble-Hydroponics-Aquariums/dp/B00TZTYK2Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1491575474&sr=1-1&keywords=potassium+phosphate
I had a similar issue and realized I plugged my air pump into the timer power strip! I couldn't tell for a couple of days due to there being no problem with the lights on but i noticed it was suspiciously quiet walking by one day. If not this is a concentrated form of hydroguard. Same type of bacillus but higher percentage. Also enzymes like canna or hygrozyme. I've heard the powdered stuff for ponds works well too.
Hope this helps. I started my grow recently, so get another opinion on this haha.
It's outdoors under my balcony so no direct sun for the most part.
I put my finger in and wait to water until the soil is dryish which is usually every other day.
I have this fertilizer that i mixed with a gallon of water according to the instructions. I usually use that water once a week. Don't have an balanced NPK though.
Thanks for the help btw.
Look up silicablast for a silica additive. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Supplement-0-5-0-5-1-Formula-1-Quart/dp/B000EJZAWA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549207925&sr=8-3&keywords=SILICA+BLAST
Recharge+ comes in a small plastic container that i think I paid $20 for. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Real-Growers-Recharge-8oz/dp/B00J1CAEIG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549207868&sr=8-2&keywords=recharge%2B
I think you were looking at the 5lb bag.
Might be helpful if you post a few pics of your setup.
1: 18-24 inches. make sure you have good airflow over plants to minimize tip burn. Us a small fan if you can.
2: If you are only growing lettuce and harvest fast enough, you should be fine. The distance between plants is more important since lettuce will take up at least 8-10 inches per plant.
3: I have great luck with these rock wool cubes that drop right into 2 inch net pots after they germinate and send roots out (10 days or so) :
http://www.amazon.com/Grodan-A-OK-Starter-Plugs-Sheet/dp/B00168EO48
have fun
Would this work?
For Veg ive been using Jacks 20/20/20 up to about the 3rd week of flower.
https://www.amazon.com/Peters-Classic-20-20-20-Purpose-Fertilizer/dp/B00BIO560G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542674713&sr=8-4&keywords=jacks+20-20-20
a good starter pack of nutrients - a small sized grow tent that can fit 4 plants - a fan ventillation system that will handle the smell when you get to flowering - airpots if you want to grow from soil - or DWC hydro buckets if you want to go hydro note that these are pretty easy to DIY, buckets are $5 ea and pumps run $20-50. LED lights to grow with for $160 or you can skip up to the good stuff and go with Quantum Boards which are far superior - not on amazon You can do a lot of your own work on these boards to make them not as expensive.
After your get some seeds, either from bag seed or from an online seller, its really just a matter of paying attention to what the plants are doing and keeping a good schedule with your nutrients or watering. There is a ton of information online, both on reddit and elsewhere that can guide you with anything.
https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Nutrients-Bloom-Micro-Grow/dp/B004FYSDFQ
This is what i used. I haven't been PHing my water while using this and it's worked fine so far.
I have this product on its way. My lawn also has fungus issues I think.
Propiconazole 14.3 Select Honor Guard Broad Spectrum Fungicide by Honor Guard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015X6FIYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TW5lzbY66DJ69
Also, confirm that you do not have grub issues.
The smell is like raunchy dead skunk. It's incredibly poignant! I can take more pics tonight.
I'm on Lucas Formula with the GH nutes. I have some autos going too who aren't such a fan of the Lucas Formula though. They're very cal hungry.
As for suggestions, I use Silica Blast at 5ml per gallon:
Botanicare Silica Blast 32 Ounce, Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJZAWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZpLKybSEH6BMB
Other people swear by Rhino Skin, or Amino Treatment by House & Garden for Silica.
Molasses is whatever you want, as long as it's unsulphured. I use this at 1tsp per gallon of WARM water:
Golden Barrel Blackstrap Molasses, Unsulphured, 32 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YOQOAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JwLKybR5BRGRS
If you want to try growing grass again.
Get this
Great White PRPSGW04 100049823 4 oz Mycorrhizae, 4 Ounce, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU8JKR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dpeECb3TRFB1F
Tear up the dirt and mix that shit in and keep the ground moist. Enjoy ☺️
Edit: or this
Vermicrop VCFIRE VermiFire Nutrient Rich Potting Soil, 1.5cf https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00823B1LE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LqeECbM0Y4PJD
Just go with a balanced 20-20-20 just shy of recommended dilution when its growing strong in the spring/summer. I always recommend Jack's cause they are a PA small business who are outcompeting the big guys in terms of quality and ethics.
MSU Fertilizer Well Water version (I have hard water). Backed by science, contains all the trace elements you need along with the proper proportions of elements. I'm not burning roots anymore.
I also used JR Peters 20-20-20 primarily because they added in the micronutrients.
I picked up a tip from the MSU fertilizer that I hadn't bothered to look up before. They encourage nitrogen levels at 125ppm during the winter and ~250ppm during the summer. This is where a TDS meter really comes in handy for verifying that you're pouring what you think you're pouring. My water measures in at 250ppm default (considered hard water), so with a full measuring cup using the measuring cup they supplied, my TDS reading came in at exactly 1250ppm (wow).
Using my weakly/weekly math - I can take that gallon container and pour exactly 16 ounces into my fertilizing container (1/4 its capacity), then fill the remainder with tap water and I'm right around 450/475.
The thing to remember and one of the things I'm looking for verification on is is that a TDS meter measures total dissolved salts. The MSU formulation I have contains ~20% nitrogen, so if you wanted to shoot for 250ppm, you'd want the total TDS value around 1250 to get what the vendor considers a full strength application.
Imagine my surprise when I measured my first pour and hit 1250 on the nose. The reason this exercise was important for me was because I poured what I thought was a quarter strength formulation of my JR Peters fertilizer (20-20-20) turned out to be 5x the recommended amount and sure enough I burned the shit out of some seedlings I'm growing right now.
Anyway - tl;dr - regardless of what you get - buy a TDS meter just so you can verify that what your pouring isn't over strength. I thought I was pouring quarter strength formula, I was in fact pouring 5x the recommended amount and plants died slowly as a result.
{edit} - ok so I was right about the calculations and total TDS numbers versus nitrogen %'s...
here's a handy calculator to verify dosages and you want to be in the 125 PPM range for slow feedings.
http://firstrays.com/free-information/feeding-and-watering/measurement-handling-application-of-fertilizers/fertilizer-tds-calculator/
I honestly don't know how much time I spend with it but i doubt it's much. I check water levels, test it with digital meters, and make any adjustments based on those readings 3 or 4 times a week. I don't really do a "harvest" because we just grab what we need when we need it.
In terms of cost, it can get somewhat expensive if you don't do your homework. For example, buying pre-mixed liquid fertilizer like this is easier to use but you're paying a premium for water and food coloring. You can get water soluble powdered fertilizers and add epson salt, which provides micros. I can't make a recommendation on those yet as I'm still testing various blends. I'm also going to try compost tea soon.
You'll also need a material to start seeds in. Rockwool is the most common but it can get expensive if you're just getting started because you'll likely kill a lot of plants. There are alternatives like coconoir but it is the easiest substance I've found thus far.
Finally, you'll need balancers that you'll use to adjust PH levels. That's something you won't need to buy often though.
Hi all! Back in early February I bought an Azalea bonsai from a vendor. He said it was 5 years old and in great health. He told me to never let the water pan ever be empty, give it 1-2 drops of fertilizer every month, give it filtered sunlight, and it will need re potting every 5 years. I put it in the kitchen and it was still vibrantly green and showing new growth, the pan had to be filled multiple times a day. Then something went wrong and it went wrong fast. About 3 weeks ago I gave it one drop of this fertilizer the vendor sold with the bonsai. The moss started to turn white but I know nothing on moss and thought it was just old moss dying. Then my leaves started turning brown and I just thought THAT was old leaves ending their life cycle. My husband said it was suffering because it needed to be pruned and I should've pruned it when the new growth was worming out, he used our kitchen scissors to trim it back to its original shape. It wasn't too out of shape, just new leaves sticking out wayward. I thought maybe my husband was right, the top half was still vibrant green with large leaves! The water was being sucked up still but slowly, now I go days without refilling... and this week those leaves went away.
Now my bonsai looks like this https://imgur.com/a/hval6yO
TL;DR
Pics again, sorry for horrible quality https://imgur.com/a/hval6yO
This is the fertilizer I was sold https://www.amazon.com/Dyna-Gro-BON-008-Bonsai-Pro-Liquid-Plant/dp/B009277LT0
EDIT: The dish rack isn't there everyday. I just washed dishes and decided my bonsai really needs help, no dish water or soap has gotten into its pan or onto its leaves to my knowledge.
You need this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP39T5Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Wisdom-Grade-Diatomaceous-Earth/dp/B00404X0AE/ref=sr_1_42?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1521582470&sr=1-42&keywords=diatomaceous+earth
I have 2 cats and both of these solutions are safe and work.
I do have Dr. Earth Organic 8 Bud & Bloom
That's kind of high. Do you have intake and exhaust fans set up? If you already do, I'd consider a supplement to help it do better in higher temperature.
General Advice:
Fertilizer:
Bugs:
Fungus:
Yeah and I’m about to buy a few more because I’ve been advised that as much of good shit I’ve picked out, I still need ‘base nutrients’, I checked each product before I picked it, and they all seem one another cover some nutrient that the plants need. But it’s like inception, he planted the seed (get it) in my head that on top of all this, I need more.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00GOI3ULI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518058955&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=biobizz&dpPl=1&dpID=51qIqhxEXOL&ref=plSrch
I found this for base nutrients and I’ve heard great things about biobizz, looking st their prices I should have just gone with them.
I was given an Aerogarden by my neighbor and when I went to add the provided nutrient package I realized that the salt had crystallized inside.
I have a small hydroponics setup besides the Aerogarden and use General Hydroponics nutrients in it. As soon I saw the crystallized salt I threw out the packs and used the nutrients I had for my other set up, and it has been doing good enough more me!
http://imgur.com/84YD9BU
I attached a link to the starter pack I bought. It has instructions on the bottles on how much to use of each product depending on the growth phase it's in.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B008UCCCII?pc_redir=T1
Add a spoonful or 2 of Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth to water in a shaker bottle and drink it. Do this twice a day and your hair, beard, and nails will grow faster and thicker.
It has no taste, just a slightly chalky texture. It's very good for you but FYI it will give you some lucid dreams for at least the first few nights. You'll also wake up super rested.
I've purchase this product,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009277LT0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498416515&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bonsai+fertilizer
How do I know the type of soil I have when I bought this online?
Adding hydroguard to the mix would probably solve your problem. Or you can get this, its the same bacteria in a more concentrated form.
You can try this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004S6ZZFM/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Late to the conversation, but after all of the things I've tested, this is the best product, by far. Eco Earth is overpriced garbage. Basically, bags of what's leftover from 'real' cocoa fiber. For most, it doesn't hold humidity well, when it dries it turns incredibly dusty and it grows mold way too easily.
Try this and I think you'll be surprised. I own Suburban Geckos and keep roughly 400 Leopard geckos at any given time. With an operation that size, time and efficiency are paramount, and you learn over time what works and what sucks, with regard to your husbandry. Used Eco Earth for my first couple of seasons as a breeder, and have absolutely not looked back since switching over to this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1V7NOO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Great info, thanks for that write up. I'm looking at ordering ferts for my seedlings as well (they've been unfed since sowing early March). I was going to start with a 20-20-20 then transition to a 12-15-30 once they start flowering. I don't know the composition of my soil right now, but I'll be transplanting them into a mixture of vermiculite, perlite and compost in a few weeks.
What recommendations do you have based on that?
that's a shit price for 3lbs of coco. this GH is 12 lbs and just 4 bucks more. GH coco
one thing, you need to wash this coco. i wash all my coco, as its always saltier than the label says. maybe this expensive stuff is actually well washed. i don't know. i wash all my coco.
and no, don't get fine coco. get regular medium or coarse, but not fine. if i amend soils with coco i'll use fine if i can get it, but i don't like it otherwise.
You dont need these size of bottles but these are what you want for the full grow, the ph up/down is to control your ph (obviously) so that's essential too.