Best gun maintenance products according to redditors

He needs, yes. The Lee Challenger kit is around $99 on Amazon, and that has everything he'll need to get started except for: Bullets, Primers, Powder and Brass and DIES for 7.62x54r (another $30-$40)

Now, he'll want a digital scale, a case trimmer, and a tumbler to get his brass clean and pretty. That all can be added on, and most likely, be purchased in addition to the press kit for about $200.

Here's a list of things he'll want:

Lee Challenger Reloading Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady Reloading Manual (So he doesn’t blow himself up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAUZ71V/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Calipers (So he doesn’t blow his gun up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

7.62x54r Reloading Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-7-62X54R-Pacesetter-Dies/dp/B00162UGUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511562718&sr=8-1&keywords=7.62x54r+dies

Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (To make clean-shiny brass)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MYGLJC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case Tumbling Media
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQRGF2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCBS Universal Case Loading Block
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RA5DQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady One-Shot Case Lube https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001NA29U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack (Because listening to good music scientifically makes better bullets)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LICGSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

Reload.


Seriously.


I'm procrastinating so I'll just do the math for you right now:


As of April 16, 2019, a Lee Anniversary single stage reloading kit is $130.71

A set of Lee .308 dies is ~$45.

Let's say you add a few more reloading starter items and you bring your equipment cost to $300 USD. This is on the higher end of what you'd need to start, but who knows.


To load .308 you need brass, powder, primer, and a projectile.

Powder: Ramshot Tac. $160/8 lbs. (These are ballpark prices but I'm searching them on ammoseek.com right now which is a search aggregator).

Primer: CCI #200 Large Rifle Primer. $30/1000.

Brass: Mixed once-fired brass. $13/100.

Projectile: Hornady 168 HPBT. $0.24 per projectile


Let's assume 45 grains of powder per charge (note: Fuck no this is high. Don't use this. It's an overestimate).

That brings your total cost per round to: $0.53 per round. And that's assuming you don't use the brass multiple times. If you reload the brass 3x, that brings the total cost per round to $0.44 per round.

At $0.56 of savings per round compared to $1/round match ammo, you'll break even at about 540 rounds. While that may seem a lot, that's <6 months of weekly range trips of 25 rounds. And let's not lie. You'll probably shoot more than that.

I'm only speaking from a few months experience so I'm sure someone can give you a more complete answer, but I have used This Otis kit and it works fine for cleaning my handguns and my .22 rifle. This video shows you how to use it on a bolt action.

I'm mostly just commenting to tell you that you picked a really nice first rifle.

FYI, if you're not a fan of the pink, the normal tactical cleaning kit is $35 shipped on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Otis-Tactical-Cleaning-System-Shotgun/dp/B0000C52A5

Those are crimps, be sure to remove them before trying to reload.

You can use a swage tool to remove them, or use a countersink bit or a crimp remover like what RCBS has.

How much are you figuring to spend on everything? I suggest getting an entire Lee kit. I've had mine for the past 3 years or so and it's been great. $130 for a starter kit that includes everything you need except a manual and dies. Considering what other kits cost, this is pretty cheap and by no means low quality.

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-50th-Anniversary-Reloading/dp/B00162RM3E

As a gun guy, its kinda weird since this is gun oil

https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-No-Lubricating-Oil-Bottle/dp/B000PW64JY

Case Cleaning




Case cleaning isn’t strictly necessary as long as the case isn’t filled with dirt or something. A tarnished case will shoot just as well as a pretty shiny one. That said clean brass is easier on your dies, is easier to reload, doesn’t turn your fingers black, is healthier(fired cases have lead dust and other nasties on it) and in general is far more impressive when you show it off to people. 


There are several types of case cleaning systems. I’m going to go over the basics of each and provide one link to that genre.




>Chemical:


Chemical brass cleaning is usually a solution of detergent, acid, and warm water. Usually vinegar and some variation of dish soap. This will clean off your cases fairly quickly and without a whole lot of work. It might turn your brass a funny color though and if your soap has ammonia in it may weaken the cases in an unsafe way. This is the cheapest method of cleaning brass.



>Vibratory Tumbling:


A vibrating tumbler is filled with corn cob/crush walnut media and your brass. When turned on the whole thing vibrates(gasp!) and after a few hours your brass is shiny. This is probably the most common way to clean brass. The downsides are that the insides of the cases don’t get cleaned and if you deprived before tumbling sometimes the media gets stuck in the flash hole. It also produces a lot of dust, both from the media and the lead residue in the rounds. Because of this it is not recommended to do anywhere that small children will commonly be or where food is prepared. It is also fairly loud, apartment dwellers will not want to go this route.

Frankford Arsenal Vibratory Tumbler $40.93



>Sonic Cleaning:


Sonic cleaning is one of the fastest ways to clean your brass. You add your solution, let it heat and shake out any bubbles then dip your brass down into it. Sonic cleaning does a better job than vibratory cleaning, but it doesn’t remove tarnish beyond what the cleaning solution will do chemically. Since all the cleaning happens in solution there is no dust to worry about.

Lyman Turbo Case Cleaner 106.31




>Wet Tumbling:


Wet tumbling uses a rotating drum full of water, soap, and stainless steel pins to clean your brass. Wet tumbling will take even the dingiest of brass and make it look like factory new. It cleans the inside and outside of cases and if the cases are deprimed first it will clean the primer pockets as well. Again there is no dust because of the water.

Thumler Model B 189.95 You’ll also need 5lb of stainless steel pins which will run you about $40. 





Storage



When you reload you’re going to need a bunch of containers to hold your stuff. This can be old shoeboxes, coffee cans, tupperware, etc. But you’re going to need it. You’ll also need a way to easily get to your components from your storage. For something like tupperware you have a nice big shallow container it is easy to grab from. If you’re using a taller container or one with a narrow mouth(coffee can for instance) it is harder to reach into. 




For storage I use Akro bins to hold components I’m using. They stack nicely, hold a lot of weight without flexing, hang off my press, and are easy to get things out of.


Priming systems



Some people like to prime their cases in their press. Some people like to do it separately with a hand tool. Hand tools are nice because they are portable and since priming is relatively low risk many people do it while watching TV and then double-check everything afterwards. This is one of the “nice to have” things depending on your preference. It is generally not required to reload. 



RCBS Hand Prime $41.99


Lee AutoPrime $19.99




Many hand priming tools will also require a set of shell holders mean specifically for priming tools.


Lee Priming Tool Shell Holder Set $16.99




Primer Flip Trays




When using primers in a press you’ll need them all to be facing the same way. This is a very tedious process to do by hand. Primer flip trays use a series of small grooves to flip the primers all upright in just a few light shakes.

RCBS Primer Flip Tray $9.95 These can be found for much cheaper.


Case Lube



If you are reloading rifle cases or using steel dies you’ll need case lube or it’ll get jammed in your press. You can get spray on lube, roll on lube, and lube you just put on using your fingers. It all depends on what works best for your workflow. Roll on lube is put onto a pad or sponge and the case is rolled across it before being put into the press. 





Imperial Sizing Wax $8.39




Lee Case Lube $4.19




Lyman Spray Lube $7.99




You can also make your own for ~$7 per 32oz.
Make your own lube





Dies




Dies are one of the most important parts of your reloading set up, they physically manipulate your brass and bullet back into firing condition. In general you’ll need a set of dies for each caliber you reload. Some calibers like 44spl/44mag or 38spl/357mag can share the same die set, but you should confirm that the die is meant for that. Most dies on the market have a 7/8"-14 thread. This means most presses will accept most dies, though some presses take their own unique type so make sure you double check before purchasing a press/dies.




Dies can range from a $30 Lee set to a $500 set of custom precision dies for long range rifle shooting. Because of this I’m going to describe what the different types of dies do for you, this should allow you to make a more informed decision about what sets to buy.


>Decapping Die:


These usually come in two flavors; Universal and combined Sizing/Decapping die. The universal decapping die is just a large cavity with a decapping pin in the middle. It doesn’t touch the sides of the case at all, it just punches out the used primer. This is useful if you want to deprime your brass before cleaning. Clean brass is easier on your dies as there won’t be any dirt/sand to scratch them. A Sizing/Decapping die will not only remove the spent primer, but squeeze the round back to factory dimensions to help with feeding. If you are using a straight walled case, like most pistol cartridges, you don’t need to use lubrication if you buy carbide dies. If you are using steel dies or resizing a case with a shoulder(most rifle cartridges), you’ll need case lube for this die. 



>Full Length Resizing Die:


This die resizes the entire length of the brass, from the case mouth all the way down to the extractor groove. They will also round out slightly damaged case mouths. These dies often contain a decapping pin and are sometimes referred to as Full Length Sizing/Decapping dies. 




>Neck Size Only Die:


When a bullet is fired the case expands to exactly match the size of the chamber it is in. Using a full length sizing die squeezes the entire case back to factory dimensions. While this is a good thing for rounds used in a semi-auto firearm that needs that extra slop to function, for a precision rifle full length sizing is unnecessary. In fact all that extra sizing shortens the life of the case. Enter the Neck Size Only Die. This die sizes just enough of the case to allow for proper tension on the bullet and extends case life. Most precision shooters use these. 



>Expanding Die:


For straight walled pistol cases you must bell the case mouth enough for a bullet to be properly seated.


>Powder Through Expanding Die:


Sometimes called a PTX Die also bells the case mouth, but is hollow in the center allowing you to pour powder into the case. These are especially useful when combined with a press mounted powder thrower. 


As others have said, that is a valuable piece of history. Help your grandma preserve it and get her a more utilitarian piece for self defense. Glock 17, CZP07, used .38 revolver, or a RIA 1911 would be good budget concious choices.

Also get her proper defensive ammunition for it, the rounds in your photos are full metal jacket. They are appropriate for practice, but are not ideal for defensive use. Get rounds marked Jacketed Hollow Point (JHP), they will both be more effective and reduce the odds of overpenetration.

The oddly shaped rounds in your photos are Full Metal Jacket Semi-Wadcutters. They make nice clean holes in target paper. Just like the round nose full metal jacket rounds, they are not ideal for defensive use and should be replaced with JHP for defensive purposes.

This video will show you how to field strip the gun. Follow its instructions, then wipe down all surfaces with gun oil and a cotton rag. Re-assembly is also shown in the video.

> American Weigh Digital Scale, 100g [0.01g sensitivity $10.42 Qty: 1

You probably want to go with something that displays in grains, otherwise you'll need to convert all of measurements from grams/oz. I use this one and it is ok.

You're gonna mess up.


You'll probably also want some way to store / carry the rounds you've made.


I'd also recommend a case gauge. I don't remember which one I bought, lyman maybe? ABCs of reloading too, if you haven't read that yet.

Frankford Arsenal powder trickler. Compact, nice heavy base for stability, even flow. I also have an RCBS trickler and hate it. It's not as stable and the dispensing arm thingy is a weird two piece design that never seem to flow well for me.
GemPro 250 digital scale. Do not waste your money on cheaper options. I don't have experience with the chargemaster type of scale. I like to do things manually.
Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Best stuff there is. Works amazingly well. I also keep a lanolin/alcohol spray lube around for doing large batch work, but Imperial Sizing Wax does a better job.
Hornady Bullet Comparator set. You don't mention what cartridges you're reloading. THIS KIT DOES NOT INCLUDE 6.5mm. There's a 14 insert kit that includes more, or you can buy just the few inserts you need.
Frankford Arsenal bullet puller. I buy what's cheap. These don't last forever. All the hammering eventually cracks the plastic. I've tried several brands and they all break eventually. I usually keep two on hand.


So that covers what you already know you need. Here are some more recommendations.

Hornady 9th Edition. I use this more than all my other manuals combined. I shoot a lot of Hornady bullets, though. If you already have a favorite bullet brand, you should buy that brand's manual.

Lyman Shooters Check Weights. I use these every single time I reload. I like knowing that my scale isn't lying to me. Digital scales can be finicky sometimes! These are worth every penny.

Hornady Headspace Comparator set. This is a lot like the bullet comparator set, except that it measure to the shoulder of the case instead of the ogive of the bullet. If you're planning on monitoring the amount you're bumping your shoulders during resizing, this is what you need.

Lyman Case Prep Multi-Tool. The chamfer tool that came with your kit will do the job, but this Lyman multi tool is my preferred method. It also comes with primer pocket scrapers that will be useful, and primer pocket reamers you should throw away and never use.

RCBS Uniflow Powder Baffle. This will help your uniflow powder measure throw more consistent charges.

RCBS Advanced Powder Measure Stand. If you're going to do a permanent installation of your powder measure on your bench, you will want this stand. Its price is absurd, but it's a great stand.

RCBS Universal case loading block. Your kit came with one, but you need at least one more.

What is your plan for cleaning brass? Wet tumbling with steel pins is the way to go. I have the Frankford Arsenal unit. It's huge and noisy. If I had it to do over I would purchase the dual drum tumbler from Harbor Freight and buy steel pins from Amazon.

Redding dies don't come with shellholders. Did you remember to get one?

What is your plan for case trimming? You don't mention what you're reloading. The cheapest option, which is actually my preferred method, is the Lee case length gauge and shellholders with their cutter and lock studs.

There are some additional case prep tools, but they would depend on what you're doing. If you are dealing with brass that has military crimps, you'll need tools to deal with that. There are primer pocket brushes, primer pocket uniformers, flash hole deburring tools, and a million other little things.

That's all that's coming to mind right now. I'm sure I missed some stuff.

I haven't used them myself, but there is these:

https://www.storemoreguns.com/the-rifle-rods-gun-rack-system/

https://www.amazon.com/Gun-Storage-Solutions-Starter-19-Inch/dp/B00570T3R4

Check out the middle picture on the amazon link (same product)

You can get a lee bench kit for like $120-140ish and it has just about everything you need to get started. Seen em on midway for $130. Amazon has one for $90 so if you have prime free 2 day shipping i think they even do free prime for college students too https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Anniversary-Challenger-Kit/dp/B00162RM3E

If you haven't already check out the FAQ on /r/reloading. They've got a ton of resources. This book is usually referenced as a good starting point.

Press. The minimum I suggest to start with is a Lee Turret press. ~120.00. The turret allows you to perform multiple operations without removing the brass. When I loaded on the turret I would deprime/size then expand before pulling the brass into the bin. I primed off of the press. When ready to load I would drop the powder, set the bullet and crimp. So I only had to place the brass on the press twice. With multiple turrets you can set your dies up once and not need to go through the entire process each time.

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=sr_1_3?crid=24AI5JDUR2S42&keywords=lee%2Bturret%2Bpress%2B4%2Bhole&qid=1565045386&s=gateway&sprefix=lee%2Bturre%2Caps%2C478&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1


You will need dies. ~40.00-60.00. Lee dies work. I don’t like them as much as I do RCBS. If you get the Lee set get the set with the factory crimp die. If you get the RCBS or other company (the only other I have experience with is Lyman and they were awful) get a Lee factory crimp die as well. Crimping in a separate step from bullet seating will help you diagnose problems. Getting the crimp right is probably going to be your first struggle.


You will need a way to prime the case. $35.00 to 65.00. Do you want to prime on the press or off? I suggest off. Lee hand primers are decent. I suggest the RCBS hand primer however. When priming hundreds of cases at a time it is nicer on the hand. I use the universal. The only issue I have ever had is priming .45Colt. It did not want to hold onto the case very well. (I see that Lee has some newer models that I have not tried, these may be easier on the hands) To prime on the press just buy the tool for the press that you choose.


Powder scale. $35.00 to $100.00. I use the Frankford arsental digital. I check it with check weights before I start but usually don’t need to recalibrate. I have checked it against my Dillon scale as well as laboratory balances at work with acceptable results. They are not perfect and not as precise as other scales. Some have reported having problems with this model. I am using it for loading pistol loads on my progressive and the precision is good enough. Maybe I just got a good one. Get the type you are comfortable with. If you go with a beam scale don’t get the Lee, spend a bit more on a better RCBS scale.


Powder thrower. ~70-100.00. I use a Hornady powder thrower. I had the Lee Perfect powder measure. It is junk, don’t waste your money. Fine powders leaked past the barrel and large flake measured poorly. It is stiff even with ball powder. Get a Hornady, or RCBS and it will last you forever.


Brass cleaner$40.00-100. I use water with stainless pins.
Pros: No dust in the air of my basement, no cob bits in the flash hole, really clean brass, and media lasts forever.
Cons: Expensive to get setup, stainless pins can get lodged in the brass, it is necessary to dry the brass after cleaning.
I think the pros outweigh the cons but it’s my opinion. The cheapest way to go with this method is the harbor freight rock tumber, a piece of PVC (4” I think), an end cap and a removable fitting. If you want the particulars I can send you what I do.
Starting off it is probably easier to just go with the corn cob tumbler.


Brass trimmer. $40-60.00. I use the lee delux qk trim on my turret. I have used the lyman cam lock style trimmer, it works but is just not as convenient. The cheap Lee case conditioning kit is junk. You only need to trim your rifle cases but it is worth getting a decent trimmer.


Calipers. 35.00+. I use a set of Mitutoyos. You don’t need those, though they are nice. Just don’t get the cheap harbor freight calipers. I have used a friends Frankford arsenal calipers and they were decent.


Then you will need bins and hardware. Get some stackable bins that you will be able to get more of as you get more brass. Keeping my brass well sorted and put away is my difficulty. Usually there are bins, jugs, mesh bags etc. littering my benches of brass.
I usually tell people to expect to spend $500.00 as your startup cost. You can try to spend less but you will end up spending more by replacing the cheap components.

Don't listen to the people saying that it is a waste of money. It doesn't matter what the rifle is worth if it's valuable to you. I did something very similar to a Stevens model 86 that belonged to an uncle that I'm named after. I found parts for it from Numrich and used this and this, although there might be better options now. Enjoy the project.

Is this your first house? Every year you should oil the hinges, don't use WD40. I use this. Just apply two or three drops to the top of the pin and gravity does the rest, keep a paper towel handy for drips.

Start here: http://www.reddit.com/r/reloading/wiki/faq

The buy/read this: http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49Th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412700973&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=Lyman+%26%2334%3BReloading+Handbook%3A+49th+Edition%26%2334%3B+Reloading+Manual

And ditch the OEM scale that comes with the kit, go for this or this. A digital scale makes weighing your charges much easier and quicker.

Notice how they're exactly the same thing as the Hornady or Frankford Arsenal, except for fall less $$. Everything nowadays comes out of the same factories in the East, and resellers just slap their label on and charge whatever they think their targets are willing to pay. '

I personally got that Smart Weigh and it works great.

Use something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Gun-Storage-Solutions-Starter-19-Inch/dp/B00570T3R4

10 of these

1 of these

This

This seems like a good deal to get the majority of what someone would need right off the bat to start reloading (but it doesnt come with a case trimmer....there are cheaper models out there) even so though you'll probably start to upgrade parts very quickly (if not immediately) from a better hand prep tool that would also allow you to remove military crimps as well as chamfur and deburr (and then maybe eventually to a prep centerif you start reloading a lot)

And so on, so it really depends if someone is going to jump in with both feet it may be cheaper for them to buy the parts seperately but if youre just looking to do a little casually or try it out this sounds totally worth it. It is addictive and personally im halfway through case prepping 4000 556 cases which isnt the easiest on a single stage press but will save me several hundred dollars over purchasing from the factory (as well as the ability to tune loads for each rifle)

There are reloading deals out there for materials, but press kits like this will save some people money but cost others 'more' (as they will probably upgrade certain things) still great to get into

I would recommend upgrading to a nice digital scale, it will make things easier.

Maybe get a few of these if you haven't yet thought about how you're going to store your loaded ammo.

I have that same tumbler, works great. I would also suggest a separator for afterwords. Some brass polish is nice too.

I think that kit comes with a hand trimmer, but I would recommend a larger one, your hands will thank you.

I went with a Lyman kit for my starter set, and while it's a lot more expensive than yours, I've been very pleased with it.

When you start doing 223 you'll also want a case length trimmer. This one works pretty well for me.

This is not the right way to do this.

Lyman makes a primer pocket reamer.

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Primer-Pocket-Reamer/dp/B001OPLS2Y

Or if you want motorized, you can get the Case Prep Xpress, which includes the reamer.

https://www.amazon.com/6702203-Lyman-Case-Xpress-7810220/dp/B004TABTWU

Remove the primer crimp and you'll be good to prime with none damaged.




Cheaper



Funsies


Or you can swage the primer pocket which pushes the brass back into itself, compared to removing brass.

Gun Storage Solutions Pack of 10 Rifle Rods Starter Kit with Loop Fabric (15 x 19-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00570T3R4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2bVhub1PGR2SR

Those a great guns.

There’s a ton of information on cleaning rifles and pistols online. I suggest getting an OTIS cleaning kit, and going from there.

Here’s a decent start

It’s going to give you the bare essentials for cleaning multiple calibers.


Here is a link to the River Mini14 cleaning

Here is a video on how to clean the Tokarev.

Enjoy!

Here's my 2 cents.

• Don't get the kinetic bullet pullet. They are messy and break easily. Look at the Hornady Cam-Lock Bullet Puller and associated collet for your caliber. Works super well.
  
  
• With the Lee Gauge/Holder thing for case trimming. Stick that sucker in a drill (I use a drill press). I believe you will need this piece as well to hold the gauge.
  
  
• Drop the digital scale. The kit comes with a balance beam scale that's probably more accurate and doesn't require a warm up time. It's also not sensitive to what type of lighting you use.
  
  
• Highly recommend the Hornady Comparator for your calipers. It makes measuring the round much more accurate. You'll probably also want the OAL Gauge down the road.
  
  
• The Chronograph is nice but you won't need it until after you have worked up your load. Then you'll shoot a 10 shot string over it and not touch it again. It might be better to leave that for a later purchase or see if you can borrow one for a day once you're ready.
  
  
• I have a RCBS Rock Chucker and I converted it with the Hornady Lock-N-Load Bushings and it's awesome. I'm not sure if the lee can do that but it would be a nice addon.
  
  
• Buy a powder trickler. It will keep you sane and save you time until you can buy a automated trickler. It's big $$ but ultimately worth it.
  
  Otherwise good luck. Your first load will be scary but once you get the hang of it you'll be amazed at the accuracy you can achieve. Also the self reliance part is cool too!
  
  EDIT: If you're looking at a tumbler get the stainless steel kind. WAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY better than anything else. So good that I've switched to bring my brass to a buddy who has one instead of doing it in my media tumbler.
  

Grab a bullet puller, dump the powder and drip some oil in to saturate the primer to render it inert.

Once you have the puller, you can then slowly accumulate everything you need to get into reloading, so it's a win-win.

Lyman 49th Edition Reloading Handbook lightning deal goes live at 10:40AM PST.

That would be a great gift. You should get a scale that is specifically aimed at reloaders - that is, one that is set up to weigh in grains. It only needs to be precise to 0.1 grains. Anything "lab grade" is overkill for reloading.

You can choose to go with a balance beam scale like these:

RCBS

Hornady

​

There are also digital scales that are cheaper and easier to use, but less durable and lack the character of a balance beam scale:

Frankford Arsenal

​

Start by reading the FAQ at /r/reloading. Make sure you have a look see at a reloading manual or two as well.

Bare minimum equipment you will need is:

Press

Dies for your caliber

Calipers

Scale

Lube

I started with a Lee Challenger kit which is $116 and has everything you will need, minus a set of calipers for about $25. I also got a digital scale and a tumbler. All in you will be about $200 or so to start pumping out rounds.

I was recently given this as a gift and really like it: http://www.amazon.com/Otis-Tactical-Cleaning-System-Brushes/dp/B0000C52A5

What kind of ammo are you looking to reload? Straight-wall ammo, like most pistol calibers, is slightly easier to reload.

You can get into reloading for about $300-$500.

Here is what you will need:

1. A reloading manual. This is a book of known good "recipes" for making cartridges for different kinds of powder and bullets. $19.99.
   
2. A way to deprime spent brass (remove used primers).
   
3. A set of dies. These resize the brass to correct dimensions, seat the bullet, and crimp the cartridge.
   
4. Bullets.
   
5. Brass.
   
6. Primers.
   
7. Powder.
   
8. A scale for measuring powder $29.57.
   
9. A bullet puller. This allows you to rework screwed-up cartridges $12.99.
   
10. A press of some kind to run your cartridges through your dies.
    
    Before you get started, I highly recommend you read the book, "The ABC's of Reloading":
    
    http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/0896896099/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381839707&sr=8-2&keywords=abc%27s+of+reloading
    
    You can check it out at a library if you want to save money. This book covers all kinds of reloading from pistol to rifle to shotgun cartridges.
    
    If you are going to reload any kind of necked cartridge, like most rifle cartridges and some pistol cartridges, these cases stretch in length when firing due to the force being applied to the neck along the axis of the cartridge. As such they have to be trimmed back to proper length prior to reloading. This requires a case trimmer. You will generally not need a case trimmer for straight-walled cartridges.
    
    Reloading basically follows these steps:
    
    
11. Deprime the brass.
    
12. Resize external dimensions of brass.
    
13. Bell case mouth to accept new bullet.
    
14. Press in new primer.
    
15. Charge cartridge with powder.
    
16. Seat bullet.
    
17. Crimp cartridge mouth.
    
    There is a lot of debate as to whether single-stage, multi-stage, or progressive presses are best for new people.
    
    A single-stage press has, as you would expect, a single stage. You have to swap out your dies as you move from each operation of reloading. The advantage here is cost and the fact that you can focus exclusively on each step of the process. Disadvantage is speed.
    
    A multi-stage press has, as you would expect, multiple stages. This press holds all of your dies in one die plate, but you must manually change over from one die to the next. You still focus on each step of the process. Speed is a little faster as you do not have to re-set your dies every time you want to switch to a different die in the process.
    
    A progressive press holds all your dies but automatically moves the cartridge from one station to the next with each stroke of the handle. The progressive press' advantage is speed. The disadvantage is that the user must keep an eye on multiple things happening simultaneously, most importantly the powder charging step.
    
    I started off with a Lee Pro 1000, and it is still all I use. It is a bit twitchy in that you have to keep thumping the primer container to make sure the primer feed ramp stays full of primers or else it will start to mis-feed them. Also when the brass feed tubes start to run dry cartridges have a tendency to bounce off of the deck and scoot forward a bit getting caught under the die plate on the up-stroke, jamming the press. You have to push them back out of the way.
    
    You will probably want to clean your brass before reloading it. It is not absolutely essential that you do so, but it requires a lot more force to ram dirty brass through your dies than clean brass. Also dirty brass can scratch up your dies, which then in turn pass those scratches on to your ammo. To clean your brass, you will want a tumbler and seperator.
    
    If you are not using carbide dies you will need case lubricant and you will have to lubricate your brass before you run it through your dies. If you do not do this you will get brass stuck in your dies and you may have to send it to the factory to have it removed.
    
    Note that I used Amazon links for the above but obviously shop around. Also I referenced mostly Lee items but likewise shop around. Lee is usually the cheapest but can be "twitchy" compared to more expensive models.
    
    Do not randomly buy reloading components (powder, bullets, primer) and then try and find a recipe. It's much easier to find out what kind of powder is available to you locally and then find a recipe that uses that powder and buy bullets to match it. If you randomly buy whatever powder and bullets you can find you may have difficulty finding an existing recipe for that combination and will have to find something "close", which as a newbie I don't recommend. It's much easier to work with a known recipe for a specific powder and bullet and primer.
    
    Always start with the lowest recommended charge and work up from there if you find it necessary. If you are building precision ammunition for optimal accuracy you will "work up a load" to find exactly how much powder for any given bullet gives the best accuracy for any given firearm. If you are just building plinking ammunition then use the lowest listed charge that reliably cycles the action of your firearm.
    
    The most critical part of reloading is the powder charging step. If you build ammunition with too much powder in it it can explode and destroy the firearm and injure or even kill you. If you put too little or no powder in it you can make a "squib" where the primer will push the bullet out of the cartridge into the barrel, creating an obstruction, and if you fire the gun again it can explode, again with the risk of destroying the gun and injuring the shooter. It is important to eyeball every cartridge to make sure it is charged properly. And do spot-checks every 10th round or so with your scale to confirm the load.
    
    
    

Personally?

Lee Challenger 50th Anniversary kit.. Last time I did the math, even with the pieces I don't use, it came out cheaper than the individual components.

I wouldn't bother wasting the weeks of trying to get the included measure to throw properly for pistol rounds and would have gone straight to the Lee Pro Auto-Disk with the Adjustable Charge Bar. That thing throws accurate enough for pistol plinking with a few modifications.

I'd also pop right off the bat for a Universal Decapper so I could decap before wet tumbling.

Oh, and I'd get a chronograph and tripod from the start, too.

For dies, I like Lee. I'd just snag whatever dies I needed. I'd also get the various bits and baubles: Bullet puller, digital scale, digital calipers, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Anniversary-Challenger-Kit/dp/B00162RM3E

Still need dies and components though.

Lee Anniversary Kit

get one of these off Amazon. Dump the powder in your lawn/garden. drop about a teaspoon of oil in each case to help deactivate the primer. Motor oil or even kitchen oils should do the trick. Or, put on hearing protection and put brass in a vice and pop the primers in a safe direction, or again, put on hearing protection and toss the primed brass in a camp fire with a fire extinguisher on hand and other fire safety equipment on hand in case any embers fly off unexpectedly.

This book: Lyman 49th Edition Reloading Handbook

well that does make it difficult now doesn't it. I have one of these if you would like it just pm me your address if you feel comfortable and ill mail it out

All lot of what you're asking for is personal preference. Almost everything on the market can do what you're asking for. The main difference is that the more money you spend, the less time you'll spend, on average.
Some people prefer beam scales, some electronic, some use automatic systems. All can be very accurate and it depends on personal preference. Same for case prep, press selection, etc.
My advice to you: buy an inexpensive Lee set, such as the Breech Lock Challenger kit, and a set of calipers and go from there. That kit has almost everything you need to get started. You'll find out pretty quickly what you need/want to improve. There is no end all/be all to reloading. Even with all the advice and arguments on this forum, almost all of it is personal preference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MCMCYE?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

The handle unscrews and all the pieces fit inside including the chamfer and deburring parts

Check this out

But don't start with a progressive press. Start with a single stage press like in this kit.

For less than the price of this progressive, you can get the c4m3ron and everything you need but the die set.

> https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6

yes. i also got mine from amazon.

the parts that need improvement are discussed in the customer reviews near the bottom of the page. powder dispenser and scale are the items i remember getting lukewarm reviews. those parts are cheap to upgrade. so no worry.


you need dies for the caliber that you are reloading.

for some reason i have 2 sets of .223 dies. i know i purchased one, i'm not sure if the other came with the kit.

i purchased a 2" bench top cut off saw [$32]

a jig to cut my cases [$13] 300blk

a case length guage [$10] 300blk

ammo loading tray [$7]

dies [$39] for each caliber

digital caliper [$16]

frankford scale [$32]

frankford bullet puller [$16]

tumber kit [$75]

i spent a good month or so on /r/reloading before i actually purchased anything.

i asked questions and made a shopping list.

those guys are very helpful

research what you actually need for the caliber / bullet grain you want to reload before you buy anything.

double and triple check what powder you need as well. it could save your life.


i kinda over did it with supplies

haven't opened half the boxes yet.

I just did this the other day after watching the hickok45 video. Here's what I bought:

Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil, Aerosol spray, 6 oz - $8.99 (http://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Multi-Purpose-Oil-Aerosol-spray/dp/B004ERKCIA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)

UTG 9MM Pistol Cleaning Kit - $9.80 (http://www.amazon.com/UTG-9MM-Pistol-Cleaning-Kit/dp/B002ZJ1364?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02)

The Professional's Choice Pistol/Rifle Cotton Flannel 2 3/4-Inch Round Gun Cleaning Patches (120-Pack), .38/.357-Calibre/9mm/10mm - $4.49 (http://www.amazon.com/Professionals-Choice-Cleaning-120-Pack-357-Calibre/dp/B005TJWQ4A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02)

The Patches and actual cleaning kit showed up today. Kit seems to be decent for what it costs. Ballistol will be here on Wednesday. I think the Patches require that you spend $25 (add-on item) so you may have to add something else to get up to the price to get them. Or you can just get a bigger package of them.

My kit

Real Avid Handgun Smart Mat-19-inch by 16-inch Handgun Cleaning Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PB8AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WuTl343G4CERJ

Hoppe's 24002 BoreSnake Pistol and Revolver Bore Cleaner, 9mm, .357, .380, .38 Caliber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013RKHJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Bre6MnkuW1npv

Birchwood Casey Gun Cleaning Patch for 2 1/4" Square 9 mm/.38/.45 Caliber (Pack of 500) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TD0UEGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8wvVvfu8z14rN

Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner Spray Bottle, 8 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013RA3A6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_o5oHvt8b7y27O

Hoppe's No. 9 Gun Grease, 1-3/4 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PW5ZGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_HI2YuNyqeJeOt

Hoppe's No. 9 Lubricating Oil, 14.9 ml Precision Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013R67A6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_i8emEskpQydLM

SE 7624BC-5 Gun Cleaning Set with 3 Brushes & 2 Double-Ended Picks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HD0R86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_e675klKxRfh9s

Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil, Aerosol spray, 6 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ERKCIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_QH46NYitYG8Xb

Hoppe's No. 9, 9-Piece Pistol Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8S0D2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_e30bzbRXP7JAR

(Tapered and Regular Tip) Type-III 100pc Gun Cleaning 6 Inch American Made Cotton Swabs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CPU4JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_OcSPLNbBbOo6M

I also picked up some cans of compressed air at Walmart

This totally will be accurate enough (I don't have this particular model) but it weighs each load so you can see what you're charging before you actually do - but can potentially slow you down as it weighs each load while dispensing (still worth it though and faster than a balance scale)

Also if you're looking for tips - if you're shooting 9mm use a 147gr bullet if you can or at least anything heavier than 115gr, the recoil will be more "back and towards you" rather than upwards - x-treme bullets are pretty great and one of the more inexpensive options but if you can find pulled bullets (not necessarily ideal but good enough for practice at least) they will be even cheaper - ammoseek has parameters you can set for reloading supplies. You'll also need a hand priming tool (wait for a sale, it does come down in price) - or a table top version, and a press of some kind (don't be afraid to look for used to save money, I'm rocking an RCBS thats older than I am but works great and am currently doing 4000 556 loads through it. - also consider what kind of brass you're going to be reloading, if its military crimped you're going to need either a primer pocket swagger or a cutter to chamfer the primer pocket. There are also case prep machines that are electric and have these tools as well as others especially if you're going to be doing a lot of rifle rounds. Buy a reloading manual thats encompassing, you can check used bookstores - you can also find load data online but that can be hit or miss.

You'll find you won't save any money but will be able to shoot more for the same amount - more bang for your buck.

Opinions will vary wildly, but if you're going to start and really aren't sure if you'll stick with it, get a quality single stage press. Scour Craigslist and keep an eye out for deals on Amazon. If you don't stick with it a quality single stage will be easiest to get most of your money back on. If you like it, a quality single stage will always come in handy when you make special pet loads for accuracy, even if you upgrade to a progressive some day.

If you're fairly certain you're going to stick with it, and plan to load for bulk, a turret/progressive press hybrid like the Lee Classic Turret press where you can take the indexing rod out and use it as a single stage if need be might be a good middle of the road choice. Opinions on progressive presses vary and usually generate a lot of discussion, but for your current situation it's a great way to check off a lot of boxes, and it runs only slightly more than Lee's single stage.

As far as cheapest route without buying crap, not everything that's cheap is crap, but there are a few plces where not skimping gets you way more value. Because of this, you are much better off getting stuff separately to get better value. Buy the dies from whoever you want, .223 and 5.56 are the same set, and quality level is up to you. For most plinking purposes Lee is just fine, but if you're loading for a bolt action the Hornady or Redding dies can get you more accuracy for a lot more (relatively speaking) money. Then buy a good digital scale, a good chamfer and deburring tool (not that shitty Lee abomination. Seriously, fuck that thing. Your hands will thank you), a cutter (plus associated gauge and shell holder for a drill), a powder funnel, a puller for when you dick it up, and a nice set of calipers and you're off to a solid start for under $350.

If you want the cheapest way to do it: Lyman case prep. You can put the individual tools into some sort of connecting nut and put it into a handdrill. Also includes tools for chamfer and deburring. Not the most efficient or consistent, and not fun for a large amount of brass. But cheap, and easy to use.

Removing the crimp and priming aren't really supposed to be done in the same step. I prefer to do my rifle priming off press, so I got something like this: Lee ergo. Each manufacturer has their own priming tool, just remember for the lee ones, you need to buy holders for various calibers. And no, you can't use the press case holder for the primer (cue video of me cursing before reading directions).

Nope...i use the [Lyman Case Prep Xpress] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TABTWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lcHwxbW381H73)

Forster makes great tools, but I would reconsider the priming tool. I don't like having to fill up primer tubes -- I prefer to just flip the tray of primers into something like the Lee auto prime, shake them to line them up, and then prime.

Also, having done this for a while, I finally broke down and bought a Lyman case prep Xpress https://www.amazon.com/6702203-Lyman-Case-Xpress-7810220/dp/B004TABTWU. Yeah it's more money, but it runs quiet, saves your fingers, and does a variety of other tasks, like cleaning and uniforming primer pockets, removing case primer crimps (if your cases have any), lubing case necks. If you do enuf reloading, it's well worth it.

I have all of those pieces except the case prep center and they are all great. I was happily reloading my rifles with this.

I also bought a Dillon 550 and I love that too. I do 9, 40, 556 and 300 with it.

Then a friend dropped about 2k of 5.56 brass in my lap. The case trimmer and "by the hand" primer pocket cleaning and deburr of the neck got old really fast.

I bought the Universal Trim station which basically is an automated case trimmer and built in case prep center. After some out of box problems (RCBS quickly sent me replacement parts). I love that too.

I will say even though I purchased [this crimp remover] (http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422572881) and it's the first thing I'm actually dissatisfied with. I still don't have reliable primer seating (occasional primer crushes) on the Dillon.

I moved over to this as a step in once fired brass prep, and then go ahead and clean out the primer pocket using the crimp removal thing (on the trim station) from above and things seem really solid now.

I hope that helps, stay safe and have fun.

RCBS has great customer service. I don't think you'll regret getting that kit.

I have the Lee Classic Turret press and I really like it. Granted I only load pistol rounds but with the ability to remove the auto index rod, you can use it as a single stage if you'd like. If you end up wanting to do pistol or think you might some day, you can put the index rod back in for higher volume. I load around 100-150 rd/hr with the index rod.

It's cheaper from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60

A relatively complete kit, out of the box, would be around $300 RCBS Rock Chucker Master Reloading Kit. The additions to your particular firearms would be a case trimmer of some nature ($40-$100), and one die set per cartridge ($30-50), kinetic bullet puller ($10-$20), micrometer calipers ($20-$200) and then components. The RCBS kit contains a good manual, doesn't have much useless extras, and requires a few extras for rifles, but it is a quality set that you don't have to upgrade.

Hoppe's synthetic blend, the smell is almost non existent and it is non-toxic.

bronze 30 cal brush

Use a wire instead of a rod...., or a boresnake.

the bolt... read your manual, generally very very light oiling, like one drop goes a long way.

Edit - derps.

I've been fond of Otis cleaning kits. It's a compact snake, brush and patch kit. They sell it in different configurations, but they have a few universal ones with a mixture of everything.

If you aren't doing much volume the lee trimmer is the best budget minded one you can get.

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Cutter-Lock-Stud/dp/B000NOQIOU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417303995&sr=8-1&keywords=lee+trimmer

8 bucks and then each caliber is 8 bucks or less

you don't need to trim 9mm

I've had to trim .357 because I had a bunch of different range pick up and they varied greatly, wouldn't seat on the cannelure right.

I reload for my ar15's, so buying the WFT for .223 was a lot easier than all the blisters the lee trimmer would cause.

They also have this thing, it would be a lot more comfortable.

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Cutter-Ball-Grip/dp/B00162PVJQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1417303995&sr=8-3&keywords=lee+trimmer

1. higher weight bullets will give a slight better performance for wind but not worth it for plinking ammo.
   
   
2. I dont know, i just use enough powder that cycles the system successfully.
   
   
3. YES I use a lee hand stimmer with a cutter and stud in a drill.
   
   
4. for 223 it do not think the price of brass is worth spending all the time to anneal.
   
   

first of all

Secondly, I assume you mean this one, the lee cast iron turret is a great press and it will work for most applications, If you need to do things not involving the turret (like decapping of w/e) you can just pull the index rod out(it just pops out when you take the dies out) and it won't spin anymore.

For tumbler I can say wet tumbling is best but not feasable for everyone and walnut tumbling works fine. The frankfort arsenal kit is good choice.

Lee dies and hand trimmers are cheap and work good too. I wouldn't worry about a trimmer for 40 or 9 but get one for sure for 223 and 30-06. cutter + Insert

there's some more basics like decent case lube and components themselves but it's a step in the right direction.

EDIT
***
additional recommended things would be a kinetic bullet puller, digital scale, and calipers.

i use hops9, cheap and effective

I recently invested in a Frankfort arsenal tumbler, but before that I used an old rock polisher to wet tumble. You can also use an old jug or 5 gallon bucket with a good seal to do the same thing. They all come out about the same, but I was tired of waiting for brass to dry since I am very impatient person lol. If you’re going to wet tumble I used a small splash of dawn dish soap and a 9mm case of lemi shine. If I used the rock tumbler I would let it go for about an hour, switch the water, and then do another hour. If I was doing it by hand with a 5gal bucket or an old jug I would I would do it on and off while watching tv and would switch the water once or twice once I could see it was really dirty. You can kinda tell when the brass is clean enough for your liking. Since I don’t pay for electricity, I would put a large box fan in front of it to help the drying process.

So looking at buying my first press and noticed that amazon has the lee jeans logo on the lee press. clicking on it takes you over to the jeans. lol

lol.

or you could just reload/make more

I'm still new to shooting at paper targets, I will start shooting in groups of 5 from now on. I've looked into reloading but there's so much info out there that I'm not even sure where to start.

I was looking at the Lee 50yr Anniversary Kit on Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-50th-Anniversary-Reloading/dp/B00162RM3E and picking a set of .308 dies. I guess after that my next step would be to grab some powders, bullets, tumblers. I know the initial investment will pay itself off pretty quick, but do you have a reloading for dummies you can recommend?

For $11.02 I purchased these digital calipers and they are insanely accurate and I could not be anymore happy with them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002JFMIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_34?qid=1427733769&sr=8-34&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=reloading&dpPl=1&dpID=51VhLNNwsKL&ref=plSrch

If you're going the cheaper route have you thought about the Lee kit for $126.99?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00162RM3E/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1427733723&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=reloading&dpPl=1&dpID=51CC5xpzeLL&ref=plSrch

It does add up quick but it will stabilize. I'm very new to this myself and after getting little things like a kinetic bullet puller you eventually get all the things you need. By the way, I don't bother with the collets that came with it, I just use the appropriate shell plate for the cartridge.

I'm loading three cartridges now (.270 Win, .223 and .45 ACP) and now only need primers, powder and projectiles to reload. To start loading a new cartridge, I'd also need dies, shell plates (if I don't already have it in a kit), and the three Ps.


Other things on my wish list are a powered case prep station (my hands wear out when dealing with crimped primers) and I see why higher end presses have a handle bar instead of the palm ball.

Anyway, sorry to ramble there, it sure feels good to make your first hand load, and feels even better to shoot. Congrats!

So this review on Amazon is what my buying guide will consist of. My apologies for formatting, I am on mobile.

-----
I'm new to reloading, but I shoot a lot so instead of doing what every beginner should and buy a single stage press I saved up a little and got the AP press due to the fact I knew I would use it a lot. But after it came I quickly realized it was far more technical than I expected. I found out there were a lot of parts I still needed and a lot more money that still needed to be spent. I was fine with it bet I knew I would have to save up for a little bit to get it all. But after about 100 hours of reloading YouTube videos and four months I was able to actually start reloading. Wishing I had a guide right off the bat to tell me what I need and why I ended up making one for any other new beginner. So here it is.


Disclaimer: Do not follow my advice blindly, do your research on each piece of equipment. The prices I have stated are not set in stone, they were what I spent. I would advise you to shop around to get the best deals
--------------------------------------------------
What you still need:

--Hornady Lock N Load Auto-Progressive Reloading Press
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD01NS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$462.64
Notes: Does not have to be this press

--Hornady Lock N Load Ap & Projector Shell Plate
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Plate-by-Number/
$41.33
Notes: Each shell plate is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct plate for the caliber you are reloading. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf

--Hornady Shell Holder
http://www.hornady.com/store/Choose-Shell-Holder-by-Number/
$5.00
Notes: Each shell holder is for a different caliber, when you buy make sure you get the correct holder for the caliber you are reloading. Although RCBS makes a similar looking holder, it will NOT fit in the Hornady setup. Here is the guide http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/shell_holder.pdf

--Reloading Dies
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD6PO2/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$43.89
Notes: All reloading dies from all companies are universal to each other's presses. So you don't have to stick to Hornadys dies (I do because I like them)

--Digital Scale
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$29.14
Notes: Digital scales are a little more expensive bet worth it for the time you save

--Digital Caliper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JFMIO/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$10.60
Notes: Digital calipers are convenient for speed but if money is tight you can go traditional

--Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Cleaner-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B000LC9YM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560230&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+gun+cleaner
$13.28
Notes: Used when you put the press together and clean all the parts

--Hornady One Shot Spray Case Lube
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Shot-Spray-DynaGlide-Aerosol/dp/B0001NA29U/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375560743&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+case+lube
$13.44
Notes: This or any case lube is an absolute need or your rounds will get stuck in the die. This one is cool because you don't have to wipe it off after you deprime and resize so if you have an AP bench like mine you can just keep going.

--Case Trimmer
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-50140-Camlock-Case-Trimmer/dp/B000PD6QJ6/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561942&sr=1-7&keywords=case+trimmer
$88.99
Notes: This will trim the case down to size. Needed because after firing the case expands

--Cartridge Reloading Guide
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Edition-Handbook-Cartridge-Reloading/dp/B00A95QWGM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563579&sr=8-2&keywords=Reloading+guide
$39.80
Notes: Tells you the specifics of each round. There is a different manual for each projectile. So if you use Hornady bullets you will use their guide, RCBS you you'd use theirs, etc.
----------------------------------------------------
What you need to clean the brass:

--Case Tumbler
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Case-Tumbler-110-Volt/dp/B000PD1XE4/ref=sr_1_17?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375559938&sr=1-17&keywords=media+tumbler
$83.58
Used to remove the carbon from the rounds. I advise not to deprime before use because the media will get stuck in the primer hole.

--Tumbling Media
http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-287178-Brass-Cleaning/dp/B001GX8DS6/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561385&sr=1-4&keywords=tumbling+media
$20.10
The corn cob media is a little more fine grain and less likely to get stuck

--Metal Polish
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-9993-Case-Polish/dp/B002L9D8VQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375561809&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+metal+polish
$14.17
You would put this in the tumbler with the rounds to give them a nice polish
--------------------------------------------------------------
What I would recommend:

--Bullet Puller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.15
Used when you mess up a round, it pulls the projectile out

--Primer Turning Plate
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPL80Q/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$17.56
used to make sure the primers are set the right way before you put them in the primer tube

--Universal Ammo Reloading Tray
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-1536-480040-Universal-Loading/dp/B000GU8WU4/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1375559333&sr=8-3-fkmr2&keywords=universal+ammo+reloading+tray
$11.38
Used to hold your rounds for inspection, and helps with precision loading powder

--Case Prep Tool
http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Universal-Case-Prep-Accessory/dp/B0034LAVUG/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375562159&sr=1-2&keywords=case+prep+tool
$55.79
This is used after depriming and trimming to make sure all the holes are clean and free of debris

--Stuck Case Remover
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y6ZJQ6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$18.99
Used in case you get a round stuck in the die

--Hornady Micrometer Rifle Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1WOJ2/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$27.99
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for rifle calibers

--Hornady Micrometer Pistol Lock N Load Powder Measure
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPR300/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$39.89
Used to better measure out the powder in the Hornady Powder Drop for pistol calibers

--Powder Cop
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003D6ZLXE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$30.57
Used to make sure you don't put more powder in than you should

--Hornady Lock N Load Die Bushing 10 Pack
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Bushing-Pack/dp/B00162OLTW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375563887&sr=8-1&keywords=Hornady+AP+die+bushing
$42.22
Would recommend if you are reloading multiple calibers, it makes change over much faster.
---------------------------------------------------

What you need for precision loading:

--Hornady Lock N Load Ammo Concentricity Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KZ3NNK/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$99.99
Only needed for precision reloading

--Powder Funnel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PD1XI0/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$5.78
Used for more of an exact measurement

--Hornady Microjust Seating Stem
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GU9VU4/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$24.99
Used to get an exact seating depth with the projectile
-----------------------------
I hope this helps! I will be making some tutorial videos soon and will post a link here.

www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-N-Ez-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ - $13 free prime shipping.

Have it in 2 days. Does not damage the bullet.

> The only glaring omission I see is that you need a bullet puller.

Thanks for the suggestion. I just ordered this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B7ZB4Q

Start with this: http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417275692&sr=8-1&keywords=lyman+reloading+manual

There are other reloading manuals, but I've found the Lyman to be the most newb friendly. It also remains a valuable resource as you gain experience.

Buy this first: http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451400025&sr=8-1&keywords=lyman+reloading+manual

Yeah, seriously. Most everything on that list is cheaper or the same price if you already have Prime. Is OP having a clearance sale at their LGS or something? Can OP guarantee 2-day shipping?

EDIT: in case OP runs out

AR15

AK47

Bigger Remington 870

1911 #1

1911 #2

M92

Hi-Power

Glock

USP

P220

P226

P229

M&P

XD

XDm

What is the best manual to get started with? I'm planning to reload .308 and was about to buy this kit from either amazon or another dealer. Is this a good place to start? (I live in an apartment and am quite pressed for space)

This is all you need.

Works more multiple calibers as well.

Handguards are mostly personal preference. What are you mostly using your AR for?

Fuck the rod-based cleaning kits. They break easily and take up too much space. Get one of these, they're outstanding.

Here is the link to the kit.

You'll need to take the handguard off and a punch to take the gas tube out. Dremel it down to where you think you need it, paint it with a dry erase marker, and install your handguard. If it makes contact, the dry erase marker will be removed in that area and you'll have an easier time finding out how much more you have to take down.

If it doesn't make contact, clean the gas block off and use either high-temp paint, or use a blueing kit.

You will also need this part for that to work, the lee trimmer uses a universal trimmer that then needs a caliber specific part fo work:

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Cutter-Lock-Stud/dp/B000NOQIOU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1541951049&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lee+case+trimmer&dpPl=1&dpID=514unBaZpQL&ref=plSrch

Watch the case length when you reload. The maximum allowable case length for 45-70 is 2.105. If it gets over that, trim them to 2.095.

You can get a Lee case cutter and lock stud. plus a gauge and holder to trim them. There are fancier cutters, but this will do the job.

Consider these two pieces to do your case trimming:

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-7EXP-Gauge-Holder/dp/B000N8N2EA/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Lee+280+case+trim&qid=1571714932&sr=8-1

​

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Cutter-Lock-Stud/dp/B000NOQIOU/ref=pd_bxgy_200_img_2/144-9074245-1267500?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000NOQIOU&pd_rd_r=f815b589-54d1-455e-9288-a71cbb1d7123&pd_rd_w=PQtO5&pd_rd_wg=A6Nt6&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=8R5YYJ0PQAJ56FSVEQG6&psc=1&refRID=8R5YYJ0PQAJ56FSVEQG6

My reloading setup was based on budget. I spent about $147 total for my Lee Single Stage Press + extras. The only complaint I have is I wish the press was a little more accurate for speedier results.

Id like if anyone commented on high speed pressing components with high accuracy results. It would be nice to have but really just curious whats out there and what works.

Edit: incase you were curious ive listed my parts below

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SF4X5I/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Deluxe-3-Die-Rifle/dp/B00162TEOE

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOQIOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOSGOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014136PA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00162UGQE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can go with the Lee Case Trimmer and save about $75. Just chuck it in your drill and it makes quick work of the brass. You have to buy the holder for each caliber, which run around $6 each. If you're only doing one or two rifle calibers, they are much cheaper.

There are no stupid questions! I like to use Hoppe's Gun Oil on my vintage long arms. But any gun oil will do the trick, the point is to slow and halt oxidation as much as possible. I would not use a washcloth, because the loose weave wont do you any favors, but a soft cotton fabric, like an old but clean t-shirt, will do the trick.

Here's some Hoppe's: http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-No-Lubricating-Oil-Bottle/dp/B000PW64JY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420668942&sr=8-4&keywords=hoppes

This. Toss them in with the media and let them go overnight

http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Master-Tumbler-Kit/dp/B000TTILBC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1331075482&sr=8-2

I started with the Lee 50th Anniversary kit, and that has everything you need to get going (minus callipers and consumables) The scale is a pain in the ass but it works.


=


Reloading won't save you much money but you will get more accurate loads with some work.

At this point he might as well buy brass and Lee Anniversary press.

I use a lee single stage https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Anniversary-Challenger-Kit/dp/B00162RM3E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502891915&sr=8-3&keywords=lee+single+stage+press

That a better scale, a die set and a caliper is all you really need.

You do not need a tumbler but if you really want one harbor freight red rock tumbler is 39.00.

https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Anniversary-Challenger-Kit/dp/B00162RM3E

All you need is this, some molds/casts for the actual projectile and about 20 seconds per round with practice.

Me and my dad started with this Lee kit, but ended up replacing the stock scale for a digital one. And of course whatever dies you need. We do pistol mainly, but will eventually do .30-06 and .223 rounds.

You'll also want to get a good set of calipers, and a tumbler to clean brass.

Yep. I have this Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-Ez Impact Bullet Puller https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jgcBybXCRRX17

Scarry as fuck the first few times you use it though! :-)

Well get one then!

http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-N-Ez-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q

>I don't own a bullet puller

They are pretty cheap if you decide to pick one up. You don't need one, strictly speaking though. You can rip the bullet out with pliers, dump the powder, and then soak the primer.

>What's the proper way to dispose of these

There may be a couple of other options in your area.

I reload 9mm and 5.56, here's my experience:

1. Lee Breech Lock Challenger Kit: $120 shipped
   
2. Electronic scale $30
   
3. Reloading trays (2) $5 ea.
   
4. Case de-burrer thingy $25
   
5. Misc Case length trimming widgets $10
   
6. Reloading Manual: I found mine free online in .pdf form, but take your pick.
   
7. Bullet puller $12
   
   Instruction manual Seriously though, this guy is one of the best reloading resources around.

> Hard to tell, but initially it looks to be an issue with the ammo. Bullets shouldn't just fall out of the casing.

They do in a lightweight magnum revolver if the crimp isn't very strong.

Same concept as a impact bullet puller

Welcome to one of the many deficiencies of revolvers.

That being said it's due to shitty ammo.

> get a manual

This manual, to be exact. Highly recommended, it's my nightstand book currently

Pick one. It'll be your favorite for the rest of your life.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/9993957887/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000WCPGSW/ref=dp_olp_used_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=used

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1498367409&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=lyman+49th+reloading+handbook

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-50th-Reloading-Handbook-Hardcover/dp/B01H2JD6CK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1498367547&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman%2B50th%2Breloading%2Bhandbook&th=1

I am pretty much in the exact same situation as you. I have been researching moderately as we are hoping to start this winter. I just spent last weekend shooting with a guy who has been reloading for 40+ years.

He told me to first get a handbook. He recommended the two he had; Lyman 49th edition reloading handbook and the Hornady Handbook Of Cartridge Reloading. He said either is a good first choice, but mentioned Lyman's first, so that is the one I am getting.

The auto-progressive is what I have heard is the best setup for producing more ammo in various calibers. Usually more expensive from what I understand but by splitting it 3 ways should allow for you guys to handle it.

As far as everything else goes, I would consult the handbook. The handbook that you all purchase, you all read, and all try to fully understand front to back. Serious business when things go boom. Jokes aside, I am sure you are taking this seriously, but when dealing with explosive materials and things that can kill you, you have to trust your friend in making them as well if you are all splitting costs/liability.

On a side note - things that we have talked about in my group is a buyout option on the gear, you just never know when people end up having to move away, get married and their SO puts their balls in a vice and forces them to start chipping away at their collection/equipment. Or maybe they just don't have the time anymore.

Other things we have discussed is associating labor hours with ammo payout. If someone cant make it a few nights to help out, are they entitled to an equal 1/3^rd ?

Again, I don't reload, just sharing the advice I was given. I am sure utilizing r/reloading is part of your research, it's one of the reasons I subscribed.

Sorry for the length. Hope this helped.

Good luck man, and have fun!

The last thing he told me was "You're not going to save any money at all but going to shoot a lot more!"

TLDR: Get a good handbook.

I have that exact kit. I would recommend buying the stuff separately, though. The scale is finicky at best. I struggled with it for a year and finally replaced it in December. Head over to /r/reloading and read the FAQ. There's a ton of good information.

The ABCs of Reloading is regarded as THE beginner's guide. You'll also need a reloading manual. I'd recommend Lyman's 49th as a starter.

For dies, I'd get the Lee Ultimate Die set for 308. It'll come with everything you'll need to reload for semi auto and bolt guns. The Lee Factory Crimp die and Collet Neck Sizing die are second to only $150+ die sets.

If you'd like me to build you a reloading setup with links, let me know.

I would think you want a turret for each caliber you are going to reload.
Turret

I could be wrong though, I'm not familiar with this press.
You also need a scale. This is what I use:
Digital Scale

You also need some sort of media separator
Cheap:
Separator
Less Cheap:
Enclosed Separator
These are just examples, you should shop around for the best price.

Just get a cheap frankford arsenal digital scale for about $30

Frankford Arsenal DS-750 Digital Reloading Scale https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BDOHNA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R2KWAbVV4YKQX

You could get a caliper and digital scale. The total would put you $0.90 over $50 tho.

I do have and use these. They are not top of the line but are still not bad.

You may want to look into a turret style as it'll make things easier and faster. Like the Redding T7

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VNO2QO/

Also you may want to get a Frankford Arsenal digital scale it's 1/3 the price and has better reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BDOHNA/

I'd go with the Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler it's easier, holds more and the brass is cleaner. Also no dust.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HTN4R6O/

Also get the Lyman kinetic bullet puller it's got a nice soft handle the collet puller is nice if you have a lot of them to do.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037N6IXA/

And don't forget a case gauge for each caliber

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001QD9XQ2/

+/-.05gr? Shit. My scale only does 10ths :-\ I have a Frankford Arsenal too, which is supposed to be pretty good.

I must be doing something wrong with the powder measure though if I'm getting +/- 2gr

$70 US, G502 is a solid choice and many others here have taken the plunge and loved it, myself included. Pick up the spectrum if you like rgb but it's the same price as the core and has the exact same specs outside of lighting.

I use a tekmat handgun cleaning mat as a mousepad, it works well for an ultrawide and 16:9 side by side at 400 dpi

http://www.amazon.com/M-Pro-Sided-Tactical-Cleaning-Black/dp/B002CTCFTQ/ref=sr_1_48?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410762717&sr=1-48&keywords=cleaning+kit

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-BoreSnake-Cleaner-Choose-Caliber/dp/B004DPJPV8/ref=pd_sim_sg_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=05M04WYT0TVAT23E7G6E

http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Micro-Tactical-Folder/dp/B006YBW82C/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410763379&sr=1-5&keywords=cold+steel+lawman

http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-American-Lawman-Handle/dp/B0015U73I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-1&keywords=cold+steel+law+man

http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-831548-Rebar-w-Standard/dp/B005KSWIBQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410764666&sr=1-2&keywords=leatherman+rebar

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WEG8P0/ref=twister_B007QOEXNI

http://www.amazon.com/Neutron-2C-Flood-Cree-Flashlight/dp/B004UH12W4/ref=sr_1_20?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410764914&sr=1-20&keywords=thrunite

http://www.amazon.com/Olight-Tactcial-Flashlight-Batteries-Lumentac/dp/B00KANR6KO/ref=sr_1_10?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410764992&sr=1-10&keywords=olight+m10

http://www.amazon.com/Winchester-Deluxe-Shooters-Bag-Holds/dp/B00EQ7U3KU/ref=sr_1_20?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1410763558&sr=1-20&keywords=range+bag

http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-11-Inch-17-Inch-Handgun-Cleaning/dp/B0036N9A3G/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-5&keywords=gun+mat

http://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-8760-Stainless-Magnetic/dp/B000OUZCUE/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1410764144&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=magnet+parts+bowl

Knives, cleaning gear, and flashlights are never unwelcome gifts for gun/weapon nerds. I linked you a bunch of decent tools that would make great gift ideas. Some more affordable than others. Get him a couple really nice things for like 40-50 each or a bunch of little affordable things and toss them in a 20 dollar range bag.

Gun mat
http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-11-Inch-17-Inch-Handgun-Cleaning/dp/B0036N9A3G

Bore snake
http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-24002V-BoreSnake-Revolver-Cleaner/dp/B003ITDPXE

Ammo

Had it. It was okay. I highly prefer a TekMat for a similar price.

$11 - Slightly smaller - 1911 handgun

$20 - Full keyboard size - AR15 Rifle

Edit - They also make those for many other guns. I have the MP-5 at work and the Desert eagle at home.

The kit would not have a tumbler, it would have a press (a thing w/ a lever that raises the shell up and down against the dies, is bolted to a table/workbench). The dies include a deprimer usually. You need a sturdy bench/table that you can mount a press on btw.
You could probably buy $400 of the expensive/good stuff, and let him round out the cheaper stuff.

Here’s a list of important stuff:
This press is great: Lee Precision Classic Turret Press (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LThgAbTFN5PNG

The 4 hole thing is interchangeable. So u can swap out different calibers quickly w/our adjusting the dies again.


Lyman Gen6 Digital Powder Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU6CIUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9WhgAbJDKEQ14

I learned a digital powder scale is what you want, this thing increases productivity a lot.

Could recommend a few more items

Check out http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-precision-reloading-equipment/lee-presses/lee-turret-press/lee-classic-cast-turret-press
or
https://fsreloading.com/lee-precision-classic-turret-press-90064.html

If you have Amazon Prime this will be the cheapest new press
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495526802&sr=8-2&keywords=lee+classic+turret+press

I highly suggest that if you go with the Lee, get the Classic Cast Turret, not their "Lee Precision Turret". The classic cast is built far superior. I own one of every type presses Lee makes, except the 50 BMG. I had the 50 BMG, but chose to go to the Hornady, because it had more leverage for resizing and better Die's for making competition loads.

I use my Lee presses for the other 25 different calibers I reload and compete with.

I know this debate is an endless one but I'm going to put in my two cents for the Lee Classic Turret.

It's more flexible in it's usage than a single stage, but can also be used as a single stage.

this is true! Think I'm going to go with this lee precision turret press if I do decide to start reloading!

i JUST got into it, as in, I just got my press this week and get the shell holder tuesday.

this

and brass, and bullets both of which are cheaper for your gun than mine.

seriously man, it's really really easy, i think you'll enjoy it, message me if you have any questions, or like the guy below said, go to the FAQ there.

There's also this for a more traditional setup.

https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498151704&sr=8-2&keywords=reloading

You can make it as cheap or as expensive as you like. The little lee loader kits are handy, and I think they can be had for under $50. It's a slow, rather imprecise way to do it, but it works and it's a good way to get the process down. I ended up getting this Lee kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1450679765&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+press+kit

Space is the real issue though. I know over on /r/reloading there are guys doing it in their closets, but I think a shop or garage with a concrete floor makes life easier.

Lee Breech Lock Kit + caliper. Haven't really added anything else (that isn't caliber specific) in a year or so.

Hey guy's,

I won't do a reply for each, but one reply for everyone since you guy's all told me the same thing haha

I looked for a press kit. I saw this one, it is a Challenger one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ISVWC6/sr=1-1/qid=1480631067/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=&qid=1480631067&sr=1-1
For 100$ i think it is a steal.

Does it include the 303 british die ?

Because for only 40CAD more, i can get that full kit !
Thanks.

Basic press kit:

LEE PRECISION Breech Lock Challenger Kit (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ISVWC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bupTDbW2EZCNP

Bullet dies (Lee dies work for .38 and .357):

LEE PRECISION Lee Preciesion 90964, Deluxe 4 Die Carbide Set.38 Special https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8LMX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kKpTDbHJ5Q5QG



Brass cleaner:

Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ 110V Vibratory Case Tumbler for Cleaning and Polishing for Reloading https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MYGLJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SwpTDbNAN79WC

Lead melter:

LEE PRECISION 90021 Melter (Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162UONY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9xpTDbKEE2RX3

Lead Dipper:

LEE PRECISION Lead Ladle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LN12Y4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_izpTDbFM3DPRA

Bullet mold:

LEE PRECISION 358-125-Rf Double Cavity Mold https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OPUDCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XzpTDb5ZD1TQZ

Reloading guide (read the intro a few times):

Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Handbook Hardcover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HH08L1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ABpTDb4HF8JH2





Supplies:


Brass:

https://www.capitalcartridge.com/38-special-brass-s/112.htm

Primers: academy sells cci small pistol primers $4 per 100

Powder: $20 per 1lb at academy do research to find what type you want

Bullets: $30 per 250-300 at academy, I like the horandy frontier lead stuff. Or buy prefluxed lead on the reloading exchange. And melt your own.

https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6

That?

What parts did folks recommend upgrading?

Also, from what I've read, dies are needed too.. What dies? How does one know which dies are the correct ones?

I've watched dozens of videos on Youtube, read the books from the library, and I'm still bloody confused. So, sorry if I'm coming off as ignorant; I'm just trying to learn.

I learned on my own with the book that came with my press. It's pretty straightforward but there's lots of videos out there that can help

https://youtu.be/irC3NuIKDm4

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/

I was just showing someone today the lee kit. It can be found on amazon for less than $120. Dies are also on amazon

I typically clean my guns after any range trip, but I am not as OCD about it as I was trained to be.

One thing I do always use is some form of a CLP. I like using something like that because if I leave a little behind in some hard-to-clean area of the gun, it will still provide an oil-like protective film. I cringe when I hear people use something like brake cleaner on their guns to de-grease them. If they miss a spot oiling/lubing afterward they have left bare metal exposed - pretty much guaranteed to rust.

Break-Free - was always a good stand by.

Tri-Flow - is similar to Break Free, I just seem to like it better (once heard it was created by one of the two original Break Free partners after their split. Not sure of the validity of that story.).

Strike Hold - This is just the best of the bunch. It does all it is supposed to: penetrates well, makes it easy to clean the gun, and it provides stellar protection after wiping it all down when finishing up. You could use just this and do well for your guns.

Ballistol - no long-term assessment yet. I seem to still reach right past the Ballistol can and grab the Strike Hold spray bottle. I suppose one of these days I will have to make a serious attempt at learning for myself if this is the way to go.

•Jennings JSVG-20 Compact Digital Jewelry Scale.

If you can, save for an RCBS chargemaster

•RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure

Again - get a chargemaster


•Reloading Manual is this manual relevant to reloading for M1 Garand?

Your link doesn't take me anywhere for the manual - I like Nosler and Hornady manuals. I do not like the Barnes manual. I do like the Barnes bullets which is the only reason I have the manual


•RCBS 90200 Hand Priming Tool

I prefer Lyman's hand priming too. I like Lee's better than RCBS's but the Lyman works best for me


•RCBS Fold-Up Hex Key Set do I really need this?

You will need an allen wrench set but you can get one at an auto parts store or hardware store. I like the ones that have the ball end to allow you to use at an angle


•RCBS Universal Case Loading Block

Get two


•RCBS Case Lube Kit, lube, pad & brushes

I like Hornady Unique case lube in the tub but it's all I've ever used. It doesn't take much and one tub lasts forever.


•RCBS Powder Funnel, .22-.50 Caliber

Yes - get this


•[Lyman Case Prep Multi Tool](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MCMCYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h71FAbFPYHG1N

I don't care for this tool. Lyman makes individual tools called primer pocket uniformer (used after every firing) and flash hole cleaner (only needs to be used once)


•RCBS .30-06 Springfield SB T/C Die Set

Yup - Die set box tells you which shell holder you need - I like this


•RCBS 9203 #3 Shell Holder got this right?

Yup


•EAGems Digital Caliper, in SAE/Metric, 6 inch/150mm. Again, would like digital, opinions on accuracy?

Whatever caliper you can find at a reasonable price - digital is much quicker for me to read


•RCBS 9440 Bullet Puller without Collet

I have a cheap one from Cabelas that came with three different collets


•[RCBS 30/7.35 Bullet Puller Collet] - see above


•Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler

I have a friend that bought three different ones as they all shook themselves apart - I bought a Dillon with a lifetime warranty


•Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler
•Frankford Arsenal 887335 Arsenal Brass Polish. 8 Oz. - I've had good luck with fiberglass boat polish poured right in to the walnut shell media

Good luck and have fun

I use one of these because The individual bits will all fit on my power drill. Makes removing the crimp or bur from trimming simple and quick.

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-7777800-Case-Prep-Multi/dp/B004MCMCYE

I just started to and you need to chamfer and deburring tool.

This one is the best IMO http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Prep-Multi-Tool/dp/B004MCMCYE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422086949&sr=8-2&keywords=lyman+case+prep&pebp=1422086951922&peasin=B004MCMCYE

If you are reloading 556 brass with a crimp around the primer you may also want this tool that also fits into the above layman tool. http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1422087101&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+crimp+remover&pebp=1422087104120&peasin=B0063IDE6A

You can get the crimp off with a razor or the first tool but its easy to put this in the drill chuck and crank them out by the numbers.

Chamfer the inside of the case opening and your bullets will sit in the case without any issue. You can use something like this tool. Takes just a second or two to do it.

[RCBS has a nice military decrimper] (http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A). I used it in a [Lyman Case Prep Xpress] (http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Prep-Xpress-115-Volt/dp/B004TABTWU) prior to buying a Dillon 1050.

Everything IAmTheBADASS said applies but also keep in mind case prep. If you are getting your .223/5.56 brass from military sources, you'll need some additional equipment for case prep, like a primer pocket swager and for both I would suggest a case prep center.

Lastly I would highly suggest a case length trimmer; I use the Dillon 1200B but it is somewhat expensive so you may want to get a manual one to start with although you will get tired of it very quickly if you try to do a large quantity.

Rifle rods?

If you want to be able to stand up the rifles (without them falling over) look into Rifle Rods... I just put some velcro (the felt side) on the bottom of the shelf and the rifle rods hold up my rifles.. Without it they are all leaning on each other... Of course, now the safe is full enough that they are still touching..

Here's the full "kit".. I didn't get the kit since I used my own felt material. https://smile.amazon.com/Gun-Storage-Solutions-Starter-19-Inch/dp/B00570T3R4

Rifle Rods

You would need to purchase this to attach to the trimmer :

RCBS Trim Mate Military Crimp Remover-SM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063IDE6A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_Mif3vuYMpMs7y

Dillon 550+ depending on your level of seriousness.

Also it depends if you want to mass produce plinking ammo (progressive press) or if you want to create match grade+ ammo (single stage)

/r/Reloading

FWIW I have a Lee Turret Press for all my pistol calibers. It's better than a single stage but certainly not as great as a progressive but it doesn't cost a ton. I don't reload .223/5.56 yet.

I recently got into reloading as well. As for a reasonable kit to learn on, I got the Lee Precision Classic Turret Press Kit and definitely recommend it. It has everything you need to start reloading and at a much cheaper price than the competitors. Don't get me wrong, there are better quality presses out there as stated above, but I think the Lee press has tremendous value. All you need in addition to this press is a set of dies and your components.

I reload 9mm, 223, and 308. While I don't save much (if any money) from reloading versus buying cheap ammo, I get much higher quality with reloading. I'm reloading 9 for about 17cpr, 223 for 22cpr, and 308 for 47cpr for the raw materials. You'll be saving more money next year because you won't have to pay the background check fee every time you want ammo.

Have fun!

What's the challenge in MA? I honestly don't know the challenges of other states all that well.

Lee makes a turret press starter kit that I think is really well rounded, for just over $200. That plus bullets, primers, powder and it's a good start. There are better presses out there, but the costs are higher. I really like my turret.

Gunbot and AmmoSeek for finding powder, bullets, and primers online.

Reloading is a rabbit hole, you can spend so much time chasing the umpteenth thousandth of an inch of accuracy. Guys will hem and haw over the most minuscule details, brand loyalty, etc. I don't subscribe to that. I'm assuming you want "good enough for hunting and hitting your intended target at 600 meters and in".

You are asking about bottle necked calibers which have a few extra steps in the process but honestly you don't need all that much.

If you want to absolutely cheap out and "rounds produced per hour" (rate) isn't a concern you could easily do all that for sub $500. Something like the RCBS Supreme Kit has most of what you need, throw in dies and a cheap way to trim bass and you're in business. I spent my first two years reloading on a sub $300 kit in my apartment. My setup was a little tabletop box I could clamp to my kitchen counter and store in a broom closet.

If you're willing to go a little higher you can get a progressive press, which allows each pull of the handle to do multiple steps. This exponentially increases your rounds produced in a given time and does not sacrifice quality. Something along the lines of the Hornady LnL Auto or the Dillon 550-ish series are solid. I'd say probably $700 or so and if you can afford the little extra the boost to productivity is worth it. On my single stage I can reload about 50 rounds an hour and each round takes multiple strokes of the handle, fiddling with the press between steps, and can be frustrating. On my progressive that shoots up to 300+ pretty easily. Most progressive presses can be switched into manual mode essentially giving you a single stage press without all the fuss.

Reloading will NOT save you money unless you dedicate yourself to casting your own bullets or are shooting odd calibers. Even then the argument can easily be made that you'd be better off working extra hours and buying ammo with that cash.

Reloading WILL give you ultimate control over your ammo.

If you're in NoVa Elite Shooting Sports has a little reloading bar / area you can check out some stuff. They also offer some clinics but I haven't had a chance to sit through one.

Probably the best deal is to start with this. just buy the dies and probably a digital scale. Also pick up a lyman reloading manual (49th edition). best for beginners to get you set on your way to properly reloading.

So this is a month old but I have some insight if you haven't already started a certain path.

I just bought a 300blk upper for my pistol. I have a lot of 223 brass I've saved to and decided to reload for 223 to save some money. Well I'm pretty well into reloading for 223 and decided i would start for 300blk as well. The equipment isn't too expensive (relatively) if you get some Cabela's sales and buy some discounted gift cards. Full equipment with necessary parts will run about $250 after everything (can be cheaper if you buy a bundle pack).

This kit

Digital caliper

Initial 300blk dies

Trimming die

Trimmer

Case lube

That's pretty much it for the equipment side. Then you'll need bullets, powders, and primers.

If you're starting out with 223 brass you may want to cut the case before trimming, but you'll need something to cut it with. If you buy some ammo to shoot and collect the casings you can't use them too.

I have everything I need for 300blk except powder pretty much. I just need to find something to use.

So $250 for equipment and 1k round of 223 reloading will cost me about $175. That's $425 for the first 1k round of just 223. Once I buy stuff for 308, 300blk, and 9mm I'll start saving in much higher quantities per round. I think I'll probably actually start saving money through reloading in a couple months if I shoot as regularly as I'd like. I still buy ammo on sales and all, so I typically don't count brass into my cost for a reloaded round. On average it's about $.18/round (for .223) if I don't find good deals.

Edit: so I just went through and did some calculating. .178cpr for 223, .285cpr for 300blk, and .362cpr for 308 of I get good sales and free shipping.

I was looking at this one, gone up a few bucks since I last looked at it though.

Leave the copper colored factory grease on the slide until it's gone. Hit up the range with a few hundred rounds. Some people clean the gun before firing. I just lubed the slide a little and fired 300 rounds before my first cleaning.

Start here: https://youtu.be/DZf4mUM10Vc

• buy this: Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil, Aerosol spray, 6 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ERKCIA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gVErxbHNPR5KC
  
  
• I also use this in my range bag: Break Free CLP-PS Precision Shooter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050GWAVG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_AWErxb1E47QD6
  
• Buy these or cheap tooth brushes: 10-Piece Double-Ended Gun Cleaning Brush Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CWDPF6W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DXErxbM5DDJWS
  
  For deeper cleaning watch this: https://youtu.be/7VTIqAMPOco
  
  
• You'll need this (I keep one in my cleaning kit and one in my range bag): Glock GT03374 Disassembly Takedown Tool Punch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014VX2M2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_VYErxbRWCJDBW
  
  These: The Professional's Choice Pistol/Rifle Cotton Flannel 2 1/2-Inch Square Gun Cleaning Patches (120-Pack), .38/.357-Calibre/9mm/10mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MY45Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_I0Erxb77YVTWA
  
  -This: UTG 9MM Pistol Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZJ1364/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_j1Erxb6MQEHNV
  
  
• I bought these too: Gun Cleaning Set with 3 Brushes & 2 Double-Ended Picks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HD0R86/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_62Erxb0DYJ7A8
  
  
  Sorry for the long links I'm on mobile and bored at the moment. There are more updated and thorough videos if you search YouTube, but I enjoy listening to Hickok45's. Hope this helps.

Thank me later. https://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Multi-Purpose-Oil-Aerosol-spray/dp/B004ERKCIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466182277&sr=8-1&keywords=ballistol

this?

If you cannot find a physical obstruction, I am betting that you need to lubricate the lock. At any rate, it is the first step to take when troubleshooting a stubborn lock.

I recommend this stuff: Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil--Amazon. I have used it for years, one can will last a homeowner forever.

Edit: spelling

Tools should be maintained like your bike. Wipe them down with a good oil after every few uses and definitely before storing for extended time. Something like Ballistol makes a very good preserver of not only metal but wood, plastic, etc.

Use Ballistol, buy it on amazon. Works great for preventing rust and neutralizing corrosive ammo salts. I use it on my Mosin and my muzzleloader.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004ERKCIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405187862&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

I use the Lyman case pres tool.

This is my current plan, tell me what you think I should do different.

Press

Bullet puller

Scale

Dies

Caliper

Book

Tumbler

Media

Media Seperator


Case Prep Tool

Trimmer And also the needed shell holder

I use a Dremel 124 then Deburr with a hand loading tool that I have. You can get a cheap deburring tool.

It can be a pain, but it doesn't have to be. If you get this little tool or something similar it can really expedite things.

I take the small primer pocket reamer, chuck it into a hand drill and proceed to ream out 50 cases in less than five minutes.

It won't include a case gauge, really a complete round gauge. You should own one for every caliber you reload. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479962029&sr=8-1&keywords=lyman+223+gauge

Wilson and Dillon also make cartridge gauges. You can use them to confirm your cases are within spec (both shape/shoulder and length) and check loaded rounds. Always gauge at least your first few rounds each session and randomly pick a few as you go.


Note that for the Lee kit to trim brass you need Quick Trim Dies. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-223-Remington-Quick/dp/B00NEQW1T0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479962154&sr=8-1&keywords=lee+223+trim+die


The first time I got the same kit I screwed up and bought what I thought was the necessary components for trimming. It turns out it was a shell holder and spindle piece for a different type of trimmer.


You should really get a deburr/chamfer tool for brass. The thing that comes with the Lee kit is completely worthless. Lyman makes a good one: https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Prep-Multi-Tool/dp/B004MCMCYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479962275&sr=8-1&keywords=lyman+case+prep+tool


Personally I hate balance scales. This is a good electronic replacement. You'll want to use the powder pan that comes with the Lee scale on it or buy another (large!) pan. https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Weigh-GEM20-Precision-Milligram/dp/B00ESHDGOI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479962410&sr=8-2&keywords=gemini+scale

Important: Note this scale has a large area for you to rest a pan on. There is another version of this that comes with a little pan. The pan is WAY too small for loading anything past 15 grains or so of most powders. The 'contact area' for the scale is also tiny, so to use another pan you have to stack it. The one I linked has a large contact surface you can put a good-sized scale on.

Lyman case prep multi-tool: https://amzn.com/B004MCMCYE

Lets you chamfer and debur using a drill or powered screwdriver. It comes with adapters that are threaded 8-32 so you can put ANY cleaning rod attachment in a drill, or other tools like primer pocket uniformers, etc.

Best $20 I never spent (Was a gift. Would buy again though).

You can also go with this
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Trim-Military-Crimp-Remover-SM/dp/B0063IDE6A The advantage of the RCBS version is that you just bottom it out. With the Lee one you can cut too deep.

You could invest in a good crimp reamer/swager.

CH4D is the swager I have. RCBS makes a similar die set.

RCBS crimp cutter would work in a drill.

RCBS Bench Mounted Crimp Swager

I recommend the RCBS primer crimp removal tool. I've found that it is a lot more consistent than the reamer type tools like the one linked above. The RCBS tool has a hard stop which prevents you from going too deep and enlarging the primer pocket, leading to loose primers. I recommend using it in a power drill if you don't have a case prep center.

RCBS Trim Mate Military Crimp Remover-SM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063IDE6A

I have a lee turret press. My favorite part about it is the >10 dollar turrets that you can buy. I have 4 of em set up in what I reload so its a drop and go setup with no calibration. Never got the stupid powder hopper to work so I snagged an inexpensive powder thrower that I use to charge everything except my sniper gat rounds with. https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B008M5TSCG I want to say I got mine on sale for like 150.

The dies itself will cost about 25 used, to 40 new. Id reccomend saving up for a turret press, ie, or if your strapped for cash, a single stage press. The kits are nice because you dont have to piece meal out every thing else, like powder dump, primer, scale etc. Just avoid the lee single load beam design ie, which I referred to as "lee classic" in a previous post.

I have no idea what the mallet design is, nore can I find it on lee's website. Sounds like a good way to get a stuck case in a die.

Also check out the reloading page on armlist for used equip. I think its under "firearm accessories".

edit: unless you mean this crazy thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeEl9wZyabc

Can this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B008M5TSCG/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1377712253&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+classic+turret+press+kit

Here is a good kit to get started, disclaimer you will almost always want to upgrade. You will also need dies, powder and primers

LEE PRECISION Classic Turret Press Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M5TSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.8GTCbVPSE29H

The Lee Classic Turret Press kit would be my recommendation over the rockchucker. That is just personal preference though and it doesn't look like Midway carries it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008M5TSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511499948&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lee+classic+turret+press&dpPl=1&dpID=51fxJTv0BZL&ref=plSrch

Amazon does though.

I'd say buy him a kit and maybe some dies to start. Pistol calibers are relatively easy to reload and don't require trimming of the cases.

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511483036&sr=8-2&keywords=rock+chucker+press

What's the difference between that one and the RCBS? Or, what would I be paying more for that this one doesn't have? https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511483036&sr=8-2&keywords=rock+chucker+press

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60 is the RCBS one(I didn't price search much).. it looks like you get the tumbler and a case trimmer with the Hornady, but not the RCBS. I'd expect product quality to be near the same for both brands.

I think it's worth waiting a week to see. I've seen reloading equipment get some measure of discount on Black Friday in the past. As an example the RCBS Supreme Master Kit is currently listing for $317 on Amazon but if you check camelcamelcamel, you'll see it's been as low as $230 within the last year.

​

https://camelcamelcamel.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/product/B00T9YKW60

​

If you're worried, you can get something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Otis-Tactical-Cleaning-System-Brushes/dp/B0000C52A5

I have one that I can clean every rifle and pistol I own. They easily attach to a strap or molle web platform. As others have pointed out, unless you're in the mud or water (or own a kimber or something that rusts super easy) you shouldn't need to clean, but it's nice to have the ability.

I like to use the Otis pull through cleaning kit. I normally use hoppes 9 after a range visit and depending on how much I shoot a firearm I occasionally soak it in Wipe out

I pretty much never use a brush any more with this cleaning method, it's easier and quicker I find than scrubbing with a rod.

Could you use something like this to clean from breach to muzzle? http://www.amazon.com/Otis-Tactical-Cleaning-System-Brushes/dp/B0000C52A5

Something like this for the 700 and this for the '94?

Thanks man.

I use this kit from Otis for cleaning the bore: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000C52A5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It uses a flexible cable that you can use to pull brushes and patches through the bore, only from chamber to crown. The cable is plastic coated and should do no damage.

It takes me a lot of work to get clean patches unless I first use a larger brush to clean the chamber before cleaning the bore. To clean the chamber, I use the .38 brush from the Otis kit attached to the Pro-Shot Flexible Chamber Cleaning Tool, https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008P8F13U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With this tool, you can work the cleaner-soaked brush into the chamber while rotating a few turns. This really speeds things up, and I do not need to worry about stuck cases from a dirty chamber.

Here is a video from Ruger on cleaning the Mini 14, so you can see the technique they recommend: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJ_XSF47s9s

(They make no mention of using a chamber brush.)

A cold bluing kit is worth a try - I'm no expert, but it should protect your steel just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKELM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rDCfAb9FJCTA7

I haven't tried it myself but I have seen blued 1095 on the forum a few times. I have an SR-101 (proprietary 52100) Busse I would like to strip and have been considering giving it a try. A bottle runs $10-$20 and most sporting goods stores.
https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Liquid-Gun-Blue/dp/B000KKELM8

What you've done looks awesome! And I can say that you've taken the first step down a dangerous path! I started restoring putters as a side hustle almost 10 years ago (almost exclusively Cameron, but some Bettinardi), and once you get the hang of it, you can turn some pretty cheap and sloppy putters into great refurbs.

If you are at all interested in learning to add the original gunmetal look back to the putter, take a quick browse through golfwrx's Cameron Restoration threads. (I'll try to post a thread when I get back home.) You can turn a ~$50 investment into a $200+ sale, even more if you get lucky enough.

Link to the bluing kit I've always used:
https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Liquid-Gun-Blue/dp/B000KKELM8

Edit-- here's the restoration thread I was talking about: http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/897086-scotty-cameron-rust-bucket-diy-step-by-step-restoration/

That might actually look good with gun bluing

I'd recommend Sterling Arsenal/Critical Koting. Best in the area IMO, and competitive pricing too. You could also use something like this gun blue kit for cheaper yourself.

Gun bluing. Here's a link to a kit.

You could also drop the pieces in warm vinegar til they achieve a dark patina.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KKELM8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453328152&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=bluing+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=413HBngrwsL&ref=plSrch#

i just added a lee cutter and lock stud and caliper. I shouldnt need this this because a shell holder and case guage comes with the dies correct?

Honestly I just use gun oil.

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Lubricating-Bottle-2-25-Ounce/dp/B000PW64JY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-2&keywords=gun+oil+lubricant

Along with the following...

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Cleaning-Patch-Guage-Pack/dp/B0000C50HK/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1409932967&sr=1-2&keywords=Shotgun+gun+cleaning+patches

Which also work on the guns I own.

Nothing special about the brand, I just wanted to link to an example.. any product like that will work.

Hoppes no. 9

Hoppes Lube

This is the cleaner and this is the oil that I bought.

Most vibratory tumblers aren't so loud you'll have problems with them in an apartment. You probably won't want it sitting in the room with you while it's running, but it's not so bad that it'll likely cause complaints from your neighbors.

Here's a pretty good kit that includes a tumbler and media separator for $66 or just the tumbler for $45

The primer pockets are definitely cleaner. I will load almost all of them without using a primer pocket cleaner because they are plenty clean. It's not as loud as I was expecting but it's definitely not quiet. I would still run it in an apartment I just wouldn't put in right up to a wall.

http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Master-Tumbler-Kit/dp/B000TTILBC/ref=pd_sim_misc_2

That's what I bought.

Non-mobile link: http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Anniversary-Challenger-Kit/dp/B00162RM3E/

What makes this more worth than something like this?

Lee Precision Anniversary Challenger Kit II https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162RM3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1jqjzb836WTCP

To a rookie it all seems the same.

As /u/IMR800X stated, I'd get away from the spring loaded dies and get a single stage bench mounted press. Buy once, cry once. Any decent single stage press will last you decades of use. So with that being said I'd recommend either the Lee 50th anniversary or Hornady Single Stage kits. Both come with a lot of nice extras that you have on your wish list. The Lee press is about $100 cheaper and the press is solid and reliable, but I like the Hornady bushing system better for quick die changes. The Hornady kit does come with the reloading manual, a digital scale, and a bit of case lube which is a nice upgrade over the Lee. Either way you will still need to buy calipers, a bullet puller, and a set of dies.

If it's this one then it's good to go. There are a few other things that you'll likely want but that's a good "cheap" start.

What's the difference between that kit and BL_MJ's link from Amazon?

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-50th-Anniversary-Reloading/dp/B00162RM3E/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1377702712&sr=1-2&keywords=Lee+breechlock

Non-mobile:

• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JFMIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_34?qid=1427733769&sr=8-34&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=reloading&dpPl=1&dpID=51VhLNNwsKL&ref=plSrch
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162RM3E/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1427733723&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=reloading&dpPl=1&dpID=51CC5xpzeLL&ref=plSrch
  
  ^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts ($50 mail-in rebate on this)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8JZL4?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Small-Base-Die-223/dp/B000N8LIOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495571705&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+223+dies

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495571775&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+calipers

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572110&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman+headspace+gauge

= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.

When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572018&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+bullet+comparator

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-836017-Quick-n-EZ-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572088&sr=1-2&keywords=bullet+puller

• A load manual from your bullet manufacturer of choice. Since money is an issue, I'd start with Hornady and/or Sierra bullets which are on the affordable side of the spectrum and are good quality. Also, Hodgdon has a lot of free data for their powders (including IMR) on their website.
  
  This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.

Don't forget a bullet puller:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=wl_mb_recs_1_title

Because mistakes will be made.

[Make your own](http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-N-Ez-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335282942&tag=write-20&sr=8-1-fkmr0 "be sure to remove the primers too.").

I would recommend filling the casings with something to make them bottom heavy.

You'd have to buy a bullet puller. Like this.

RTFM :P

> The compound used in many primars is basically made by sulfonating resorcinol with sulfuric acid. Then, nitric acid is used to nitrate the compount to form trinitro-resorcinol, commonly known as styphnic acid. This acid is then treated with tlead nitrate under precisely controlled conditions to form the lead styphnate salt.

With the arrival of the bushing systems, there is no point to a manually indexed turret press anymore. You either go with a single stage or progressive.

You absolutely can load match grade rifle ammo on a progressive. There are guys here reading this that do it. But you said this is your first press, so a progressive is probably not a good choice.

You mentioned loading a thousand rounds of 9mm on a single stage being a pain...it sure as hell is, and I've never even done it. But I've loaded a couple thousand rounds of .38 Special and .357 on a pot metal Lee single stage, and didn't break a thing. Was it quick? Nope. Was I in a hurry? Nope.

I'd suggest you buy this and hold off buying hardware for a while, at least until you've got a better feel for what you want to do.

The Lyman 49th edition is really good.

Here is the desktop version of your link

Would this suffice?

http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450599643&sr=8-1&keywords=ammo+reloading+book

I would recommend this.

http://www.amazon.ca/Lyman-9816049-49Th-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E

They must know new ones are coming out. The Lyman 49th is a little over $17

Not micrograms, but I'll use milligrams. If you took 1000mg (1g) in a day, you'd be feeling pretty sick and it could kill those who have a sensitivity. Another unit that I just invented now is the RB (Red Bull), this would be 12.5 RBs. I'd call that an overdose.

In order to caffeinate 5 gallons of root beer, I use about 6g (6000mg, or 75 RBs), and this amount might fill a teaspoon. I don't know what a pinch would be, but I'd consider that bad if it approached 1/6th of a teaspoon.

For individual drinks, you'll need a precision scale like this. Also you'll look like a drug dealer. Have fun!

Unless you have a really good kitchen scale I wouldnt go with it. I've had good luck with this Frankford Arsenal scale.

I have this very same press and I have loaded thousands of rounds of .45 ACP on it. 10/10 would buy it again.

However, do yourself a favor and dump the scale and the auto-disk measure and pick up a micrometer powder measure and a digital scale. Your reloading will be much faster and less frustrating.

> The Lee scale is despised...

Yes. I hate that thing. Frankford arsenal has a cheap digital one that works great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BDOHNA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oP0ACbB5JTBB4

I'm using this one from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BDOHNA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_x4Fc1PU1x1by6 and an old RCBS 505 beam scale.

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-205205-Digital-Reloading/dp/B002BDOHNA/

It's probably not very accurate, but more accurate than guesstimating with a dipper

I wouldnt say its the best but I use the frankford digital scale. I calibrate it before each batch but its always worked well and been accurate for me

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Digital-Reloading-Display/dp/B002BDOHNA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537457308&sr=8-3&keywords=reloading+scale

The expander sizing die has a primer punch pin that punches the spent primer out of the primer pocket.

I'm not sure how accurate those powder scoops are (I've never used one), but I do use this electronic scale and it works fine. You should probably get some calipers to measure case length and overall length.

Edit: sizing die not expander die has the primer punch.

Depends on what you want to spend:

Press

Scale

Thrower

Dies

You can use scoops instead of a thrower and a scale, but I'd go with the scale and thrower. Dies are dies, but there are cheaper as well as more expensive presses and throwers. Primers and powder aren't too expensive, but a little hard to find these days...

I ordered a scale kind of like that one This one, if you care and all I get is gun-related suggestions. Not that I mind :)

As far as ammo is concerned, it depends what he shoots - $60 is probably not going to get you much although I'm sure he'd appreciate it.

Ammo can "hamper" full of of cleaning supplies, gun socks & cleaning mats?

e.g.
http://www.amazon.com/Tipton-Polymer-Gun-Cleaning-Picks/dp/B0048KGFHU

http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Squeeze/dp/B0050GW7KU

http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B0050GW73C

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-Knit-Gun-Sock/dp/B00014ZY0Q

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-24020-BoreSnake-Cleaner-Caliber/dp/B0014VQ6TI

http://www.amazon.com/MTM-AC-11-Ammo-Can/dp/B003ISKM9K

http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-11-Inch-17-Inch-Handgun-Cleaning/dp/B0036N9A3G

http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-12-Inch-36-Inch-Cleaning-Imprint/dp/B0036N474S

Amazon: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-Cleaning-Waterproof-Instructions-Armorers/dp/B0036N9A3G&ved=2ahUKEwjCwMm-spzaAhUKjVQKHd9wAxcQFjAAegQICRAB&usg=AOvVaw3JQynD4HVdYaspM9roAVsZ

If he has a super popular handgun aka a Glock or 1911 you can get like part sheet let me find an example real quick

https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-Gun-Cleaning-Mat-1911/dp/B0036N9A3G

something like that might work for you. I want one Atleast

https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-11-Inch-17-Inch-Handgun-Cleaning/dp/B0036N9A3G/ref=pd_sim_200_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C87RX0S784RCWTW8Z4QE

https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-12-Inch-36-Inch-Cleaning-Imprint/dp/B003JOLCAG/ref=pd_sim_200_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S9E1VS89M6Z76BJR3GR6

My only concern with that Lyman press is the amount of room (or lack thereof). When loading rifle cartridges it seems like it might get a little tight and hard to work with. I've also heard that Lee has 2 different models of turret press and one of them is garbage. But I've heard this one is actually pretty decent. https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Classic-Turret-Press/dp/B003BWTF1E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541975573&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lee+turret+press&dpPl=1&dpID=41QzMUGtesL&ref=plSrch

It has the auto indexing feature and is less than $100 and plenty of room to work with...it's pretty tempting. Or it it really that bad?

Im trying to keep everything below $500 to start with. Can you recommend some good dyes for 223/308?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00162RM3E/ref=mw_dp_mpd?pd=1

A reloading manual. Buy one. Read it cover to cover at least twice. Then buy another different manual. Read it twice. Reference both for loading data.

Edit: This is the manual I mainly use. http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E

I have tons of other sources for data like magazines and what not, but the manual is always the starting point, especially for safety.

Pretty easy set up, and you can fit twice as many guns in your safe. It also seems like they are easier and faster to get out of the safe.

http://www.amazon.com/Gun-Storage-Solutions-Starter-19-Inch/dp/B00570T3R4

Indeed!

On this turret, all you have to do to make it a single-stage is pull off the turret head (lift up and twist) and then pull out the spiral-twisted auto advance bar in the center (it just sits there and is held in place by the turret.

Lock the turret back on and now you just change stations manually.

To go back to auto-advance, all you have to do is drop that auto-advance bar back in and away you go. No tools, maybe 5 seconds.

If you're ready for a bit of a steeper learning curve, you could dive in to the progressive, but if you don't have a reloading buddy to help you get set up, dialed in, and learn how to clear malfunctions, I'd not recommend it for a first-timer. Once you have the hang of things though, it's like hopping in a sports car after driving a Ford Festiva your whole life.


Now with a cool instructional video. This guy's whole channel is great for reloaders. He apparently has every press known to man and knows them all inside and out.

Rubbing Alcohol, 2x2 gauze, Q-tips, Hoppe's #9 Gun Bore Cleaning Solvent, Hoppe's Lubricating Oil.

I'd be real careful about this, Duracoat has some pretty nasty particulates that are very difficult to protect yourself from.

If rattlecanning, try Alumihyde or the Kyrlon grill paint.

Alternatively, you can re-blue it. Kits like this are relatively inexpensive and easy to use.

Edit: Disregard the Duracoat warning, apparently that's misplaced fear on my part.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: Lyman 49th

• UK: amazon.co.uk
  
• Germany: amazon.de
  
• Canada: amazon.ca
  
  
  This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).