Best hand files & rasps according to redditors

We found 190 Reddit comments discussing the best hand files & rasps. We ranked the 78 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Swiss pattern files
American patter files
File handles

Top Reddit comments about Hand Files & Rasps:

u/demontits · 124 pointsr/howto

It's not that much stuff - Here's the cheapest things on Amazon. For sure a lot better deals if you just go into Harbor Freight though.

Torch - $17

Mallet - $9

Jeweler Saw - $14

Tiny Files - $10 or A rotary tool - $15

​

A regular file - $8 (optional)

​

If you want to process the silver yourself you need a

Crucible - $15

That torch again

Tongs - $9

Welding Gloves - $9

Jewelry Rolling Mill - $169

u/PacoBedejo · 17 pointsr/guns

Microstamping...TECHNOLOGY???

Really throwing that shit around nowadays, aren't we?

It's a motherfucking stamp. It's a small version of this

Wanna know what's required to "defeat" it? A file or abrasive stone.

Microstamping will only aid the capture of the most retarded criminals. Revolvers retain their empty casings. Semi-autos can have capture bags attached. Criminals can purchase pre-stamp semi-autos. Criminals can simply file the stamps off. It's a ridiculous additional cost which really doesn't accomplish anything. It really seems like some people have been watching too much Judge Dredd...

u/Zaelar · 10 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

http://www.amazon.com/PIECE-MEDIUM-SIZE-DIAMOND-FILES/dp/B000UCREE8/

At those prices it's not like you can't easily get extras to share. OP is just a meanie.

u/whiteash6 · 9 pointsr/airsoft

"TM misdesigned the outer barrel for the g17 but since they made it in plastic is flexed and caused no issues. When companies copied the design into metal, the flex was gone and issues arise. All you need to do is take a small file to the bottom of the outer barrel lugs to allow the barrel to drop lower while the slide is cycling so the two don’t scratch and grind against each other; slowing down the cycle, stressing and damaging parts, jamming the gun, and possibly snapping the barrel.

https://i.imgur.com/l6gzCzE.jpg

You will want to take the file to the tight corner high lighted in yellow. Opening it up to have a round crown there instead. Depending on the brand you may need to level the area in red.

Heres a clear photo of what this looks like. https://i.imgur.com/yQjRrrx.jpg

With this tuning you can expect smoother cycling of the gun, the finish on the barrel and top chamber to be preserved, and much less filth in the gun from paint and metal being ground away. also with the less stress on the barrel as the gun cycles, it wont crack over time.

https://www.amazon.com/SE-744DF-R-Diamond-Piece-140mm/dp/B0011565LG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523025884&sr=8-2&keywords=jeweler+file

I use the round file from this set"

http://www.boomarms.com/shop/item.cfm?id=BM-BEARING-8MM&curr_code=USD

here is the hammer bearing. It replaces the stock solid one with a wheel that spins on a ball bearing. this greatly reduces the resistance on the slide as it cycles and also reduces wear on the hammer since the outer wheel is what moves, and not the post in the hole.

The slide will cycle faster / be more snappy now and will have the benefit of not sticking halfway on the hammer when you slowly rack the slide.

u/monsterbate · 9 pointsr/Warmachine

Glue: Super glue. Plastic glue only works on very specific types of plastic, and not what PP traditionally uses (though that may change with the new plastic kits, I hear the TEP works with plastic glue, but not sure). You don't need any special type of super glue, it's basically all the same aside from the viscosity. There's basically no difference in performance between one of the expensive hobby brands and a general purpose super glue.

Brushes: In general you get what you pay for, but I would skip the branded brushes from the hobby companies. Some are good, but it's a crap shoot. Invest in some good red sable brushes from a real artist brand like Raphael or Windsor & Newton, and some brush soap. I am partial to these.. If you take care of them they will last basically forever. Good natural fiber brushes are more resilient than synthetic (in my experience), and hold their shape longer. You'll want to pick up a few cheap brushes for drybrushing, though. That will ruin the bristles. Size 2 is what I use for most of my painting. Don't get trapped in using tiny brushes. The sables will hold a fine point, even on the bigger brushes, and you want the large brush because it holds more paint in the belly and gives you more work time before it dries on the bristles.

Files: Just get a cheap set of needle files like this. However, you won't need them for a lot of things. Most plastic models can be cleaned up just by scraping an xacto blade along the mold lines (holding the blade perpendicular to the line), and even some metal models can be cleaned this way unless they are poorly cast. The files are just for the larger models or for badly cast areas.

Primer: There are too many choices here to really cover that, just use a little google-fu and see what you like. I have used everything from cheap krylon to brush on. Army painter primers are good if you are painting a set scheme because the tinted primer can double as a basecoat, but they are a bit pricy. I also use gesso sometimesas it is very humid around here, and that takes some of the variability out of the issue of priming models in a swamp.

Misc: I don't use a clamp, generally. I tend paint the models on the base. To hold them steady I usually just stick a glob of blu tack on top of a nearby bottle or object and use the bottle as a handle. Most of the time it's a can of primer I use as my handle, the larger / weighted object helps to steady the model in my hand. Blu tack also does double duty as "painter's tape" for me sometimes if I want to keep some section of a model free of paint. It's also good for removing dust from a primed model if you're like me and prime a huge batch of minis, then forget about them for 6 months.

If you're pinning models to the bases, you can also just stick the pin into the chuck of your model drill and use that as a handle.

u/waxfan · 7 pointsr/vaporents

yes.. i modified the tip, i have a set of miniature hobby files, (like here). i used the round one becauase of its tapered end, you can find feel the perfect part of the taper that will file the entire groove at once (the sides and bottom).

i dont know why those are so expensive though. i know i didnt pay more than 8 bucks or so at sears a loooooong time ago.

i tried all the shapes, and the round tapered point worked the best. i thought the triangle would work well with its sharp angle to grind a deep groove, but just wasnt enough surface area for the file to work properly. the metal is too hard for that approach, let the tool do the work for you.

all in all, with trial and error (easily half of the time) it took a couple hours of patiently filing the grooves in the tip, working in 1/4" long sections at a time along the entire length of the groove. then move onto the next.

http://i.imgur.com/SRff2bs.jpg

pardon the dirtiness of my M tip, just means its been used (and loved :) )

you cant really see that i filed the grooves deeper, the only thing that is obvious is the notches in the top. i have a friend who has an unmodified M tip, and he likes mine more, wants me to do the same to his as he likes the minor increase in air flow while carb is fully capped.

u/pyromaster55 · 7 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Most people will suggest skipping GW for paint and hobby tools to save money. I suggest hitting amazon for a pair of flush cutters, set of needle files, and pack of testors model cement. Krylon camo black spray paint is a fine substitute for expensive primers. Vallejo paints are a top reccomended brand, and there is a conversion chart to convert old and new gw colors to vallejo colors.

A set of just standard tac marines is a great place to start, you'll use them for sure and theres plenty there to work on technique, hit up the warhammer youtube channel, as they have painting tutorials that are really great, watch as many as possible as each has something you can use even if they aren't painting space marine models.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPDG1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459352340&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=flush+cutter&dpPl=1&dpID=414t7uLh8KL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013E68SU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Starting out you should be fine with just a zero, but if you really have moneh burnig a hole in your pocket a 1 and 00 would also come in handy eventually. Never leave your brush sitting in your water cup, don't let paint dry in your brush, and keep paint out of the metal part.)


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013D53CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352997&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=testors+model+glue&dpPl=1&dpID=51QQU8wrc-L&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NPUKYS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352697&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=needle+file+set+for+metal&dpPl=1&dpID=412lincr%2B5L&ref=plSrch

Add an xacto and tube of superglue from your local superstore and you have all the tools needed to crank out perfectly acceptable models. I'll admit the brush is a bit overkill, but you're saving so much money on the rest of the tools, and a good brush makes the experience much more enjoyable, I suggest splurging there. Also don't bee fooled into buying a basing kit, regular old sand does just fine,

u/GDop26 · 6 pointsr/Nerf
u/fatangaboo · 5 pointsr/AskElectronics

Bourns PTD90 (datasheet) are in stock at DigiKey.uk at £1.63 per piece.

Honestly, though, using a gear wheel type of pot and cutting a slot in the Altoids tin is probably the "best" option. Drill holes along the centerline and then smooth the edges to a nice slot using a (needle file set)

u/enochroot86 · 5 pointsr/Warhammer

Looks amazing, and I love the passion you are sharing with your posts. The only thing I would advise you to do is take a moment and look for mold lines, sprue attachment points, and gaps. I didn't see any mold lines, but they blend in with the plastic, but generally stand out once you paint. The sprue attachement point will also stand out. I bought a file set on amazon here that I find work amazingly. For gaps there is green stuff and milliputt for large gaps. There is liquid green stuff, but I have never bought a pot that wasn't dried out. Rather I learned from another mini painter that you can take milliputt, and make a small disk, and using an old brush and water make a liquid milliputt that can be used to paint in small gaps.

​

Go for the color scheme that most inspires you. It may be technically difficult to pull off, but you will learn with every iteration that you attempt. The worst that can happen is that you strip it and start over. Enjoy and keep the updates coming.

u/Taboobat · 5 pointsr/KingdomDeath

The 3 things you need are:

  • something to cut the pieces off the sprue -- an exacto knife will work, but flush cutters are easier to work with.
  • an adhesive -- super glue works, but plastic cement is better.
  • something to remove sprue nubs/mold lines from the plastic -- an exacto knife can work again here, but I prefer needle files. Much harder to make an error than when using a knife.

    That's pretty much it. If you want to dive in really deep I have a massive post that lists other tools and touches on a lot of customization that people have done. But none of that's mandatory, you can very easily forge ahead with just the 3 tools I linked above.
u/TheSwami · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

u/ScepticalChymist · 4 pointsr/Guitar

Here is what I consider the bare necessities:

Radius block: Get one with the radius to match your fretboard. Attach self-adhesive sandpaper or use double-sided tape, mark your frets with a Sharpie, and start leveling.

Fret crowning file: Pick one that's the appropriate size for your frets. You can find info on what size to use on Stew Mac's site.

Needle files: These are just good to have. They'll be helpful to file the fret ends among other things.

Extra fine sandpaper/0000 steel wool: Once your frets are shaped, you will want to polish them. Steel wool won't give you the shiniest finish, but it's perfectly presentable. If you want mirror-finish frets, use fine sandpapers or fret erasers. ALWAYS mask your pickups or do your fretting with the neck detached from the body. You will end up with fret filings and steel wool particles all over your pups otherwise.

For tutorials and advice, check out r/Luthier or the Crimson Guitars YouTube channel.

u/ImRightImRight · 4 pointsr/Concrete

You need to get to know the power of diamonds, my friend!

Carbide can be good. Honestly, rasping your item against hard cured concrete, especially if done in the first few days after casting while it's green (softer), might do the trick.

Things like these are great: https://smile.amazon.com/Toolocity-DHPSET-Diamond-Polishing-Stone/dp/B00MCL4NHG

But even something like this would work for a small piece: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XZI2LI/

u/netchemica · 4 pointsr/ar15

Get yourself a small file and clean up any burrs that may exist on the back of the bolt carrier. Drag is on a t-shirt or some paper to check for any burrs that may exist.

u/e39 · 4 pointsr/RetroPie

> First, how do I patch holes in the plastic

You really can't unless you want to repaint the entire SNES case. You'd need to use Bondo, fill it, sand it, prime, then paint ... or spend $6 on a new shell and be done with it.

>how do I smooth out the edges of the holes I cut.

Use a fine grit file. You gotta remember that filing eats away at material too. Make your initial cut smaller than you need, then file it to the proper size.

u/soojet · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

I've started using a metal file set made by Tamiya . They are great for removing sprue left overs on parts and you don't use up all your sand paper or sticks in the process. For other sanding, use sand paper/sticks like the others have suggested.

https://www.amazon.com/TAM74104-Tamiya-Tools-Smooth-Double-Cut/dp/B00CE3L96K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474641150&sr=8-2&keywords=tamiya+file

u/fatpolomanjr · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I finished building this as soon as my R8 78g zealios showed up. They feel very nice! Assembly was a blast. The pcb and plate were really marvelous to work on; all the tolerances are so tight and precise, and the kit is so well thought out. I have to give much praise to Justin for how excellent of a job he did.

-------------------------------------

About the keycaps:

A custom keyset on a TEX Yoda II requires modding (cut and file) because of the trackpoint, so I only use basic White on Black alphas, or vice versa. The G, H, and B caps I used are actually DCS profile, which is close-ish to Cherry. I used them because they were part of a grab bag from long ago so figured I'd save some money especially if I screw up.

The white G/H/B caps are from a $30 NPKC pbt keyset I got from mechmarket. Like with the DCS caps, preparing them for a TEX Yoda requires a little cutting from a flush jewelry cutter and some filing with a file. And some spare keycaps to render useless for any other keyboard without a trackpoint.

-------------------------------------

About the keyboard:

My first TEX Yoda gave me really bad RSI so I had to sell it and use just ergo/split keebs for a while. Oddly enough, I noticed my Thinkpads never gave me any issues. I discovered later that it was due to lack of a palmrest, which I need to compensate for my ergonomically poor typing habits.

I mapped all my bottom right keys to arrows and caps lock to ctrl. The default mapping of the middle scroll button to a Function Layer is downright brilliant. The online layout customizer is super simple to use. TEX Yoda II + palmrest + GMK + 78g R8 zealios = heaven to type on.

u/SheerLunacy · 3 pointsr/Warmachine

Although there's all kinds of branded equipment (from pin vises to knives to files) specifically for minis, you usually don't need to get the "official" stuff. Cheap pin vises (for drilling and pinning) can be found at any hobby shop, and my $5 set of files works splendidly.

That said, I did get the official wet pallette simply because it was much smaller than any non-branded ones and takes up less bench space. And, admittedly, I'm ok with paying for the convenience of pre-measured pallette sheets. If you wanted to try out painting with a wet palette (and you should!), you can make your own pretty easily.

You might also consider putting something over the table/desk/whatever you work on. So you don't get paint on it or accidentally cut into it with exacto knives. I just use a desk pad that I found at staples. That way I can also write notes to myself on it.

u/eaton · 3 pointsr/3dprintingdms

I've found that eliminating layer lines isn't too important if you go down to .08mm; the big issue is that overhangs and drooping on fine details can be a killer that overshadows the smooth surfaces. A few tools I've found handy:

Get a good round scalpel handle and a pack of carbon steel 15C scalpel blades. They'll be your go-to for nicking out tiny little stray globs and trimming plastic. Way more precise and durable than X-Acto or hobby knives.

Then get a set of diamond mini-needle files — they'll be useful for smoothing rough spots. Diamond grit may seem like overkill for PLA, but the fine texture of the grit is what matters: it won't leave your models ragged and with care you can actually restore detail that's lost to droopy overhangs, etc.

Finally, get a sharp-edged "soldering pick" and use the needle files to sharpen it to a nice sharp edge. It'll be your go-to for levering out bits of support, and picking away at larger globs of plastic. If you ever find that the scalpel blade bends while you're trying to clean up a defect, go to the soldering pick.

u/LightningXI · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Good stuff. I actually don't have a file to use, so I'll have to get one. Would this -- click here work?

I'm gonna have to do like 3-5 stem transplants soon. What (tool) did you use to chop off/remove the old stem?

What's your handle on Discord?

u/pyrese · 3 pointsr/DnD

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

  1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
  1. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
  2. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
  3. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
  • Matte Medium
  • Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  • Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  • Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  1. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
  1. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
u/syntax · 3 pointsr/Blacksmith

Er ... I don't know, sorry. (They don't seem to be stocked this side of the pond).

A quick look, probably a decent bet; but I'm kinda guessing.

I did spot http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Piece-General-Purpose-Hand/dp/B000TDGHVY which might be a decent starter set, if you can cope with getting handles for them (or, even, one handle - you only push files, so you can, in theory, swap a handle over. That gets old really fast, however). It looks to cover the range I suggested (not exactly ... close enough), and appears to be good value.

Depending on how much filing you expect to do - you might be ok getting the cheapest files, and then moving up once they wear out; but I reckon that the cheapest ones won't last long filing steel. (If you were working anything softer (e.g. brass, aluminium) they're probably fine - but I'm assuming that's not the case here!)

(I note someone's downvoted my post above - you might want to hang on for a bit, in case someone disagrees, and wants to suggest something else as the first files to get).

u/Continuum_Gaming · 3 pointsr/DnD

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

  1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
  1. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
  2. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
  3. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
  • Matte Medium
  • Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  • Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  • Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  1. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
  1. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
u/phmer · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

For what your needs are I would say you need a hand drill and a hobby knife (xacto) not files. I have used a cheap knife from my local hobby stores to slice off iconography before and it is very easy although you do need to file off some remains. As for magnitizing you want a hand drill with the right sized drill bits. As for recommendations I recently got a pack of files off amazon for cheap that I am loving.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUKYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vcZvyb0CSA63A

u/FJ1906 · 3 pointsr/Bladesmith

A basic needle file set
and some chainsaw files in different diameters.

Most local hardware/lowes/HD etc will have these so no need to order online and wait

u/cheese61292 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I have this set, which is 6 files from 40 to 600 grit. You'll honestly only use the 400 & 600 most of the time, but the others can be nice for drastically reshaping a part.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00292IOAA/

u/WaffIes · 3 pointsr/Luthier

For the fretboard scrape the heavy gunk off with a razor blade then wipe it down with naptha. Then you can spray a little guitar honey fingerboard oil on it if you like the look of darker fingerboards. You don't necessarily have to oil it, but I think it looks nice. Boiled linseed can be an alternative, but keep in mind it's a drying oil and will stay there.      

For the nut, a tusq but is a cheap and pretty much a drop in replacement. Bone nuts can get pretty expensive, and tusq is just as good if not better. There's precut fender style nuts for like $8.

If the frets are just a little tarnished, tape off the pickups with masking tape first. Then go 0000 steel wool->Dremel felt polishing pad with jewelers rouge->metal polish with a microfiber pad, then rub everything down with a dry part of the microfiber.

If they're totally messed up and divorced, uneven, etc then you can completely do the frets or take it to a shop. Level/crown/polish them. Regardless of the route you take I would probably file down any protruding frets that poke out past the fingerboard.

Anything perfectly level with some sandpaper to level frets, long granite scraps from companies who do countertops can be super cheap/free. You'll also need a sharpie, fret rocker, and straightedge. Make sure the straightedge is actually straight, cheap rulers generally aren't.


Any flat file for protruding frets. A small needle file with a safe edge ground on for dressing the ends after bevelling. For crowning use a triangular file with the corners ground smooth.  


Bevelling and protruding frets

Fret ends

Crowning

I listed cheap options to get started. You can always buy nicer ones. Stewmac, crimson guitars, LMI, and similar sell specialized ones for a pretty big markup.

u/CorrectJeans · 3 pointsr/lockpicking

The ingredients you need to make impressioning work are:

  1. A very good, fine file, which is able to leave a semi-polished surface. This is really the only big investment you need to make to get this to work. Here's what I have:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H1U28C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  2. A jewler's loupe. I don't care how good you think your eyes are, you're not going to get super far if you aren't looking at the key through a lit magnifying glass.

  3. A hand vice of some sort to hold the key. You can get by without one, but I would advise you at least wear gloves in that case, or you can mess up your fingers like I did.

  4. A vice to hold the lock, unless you're only impressioning padlocks. If you already pick a bunch, you already have this.

  5. Significant amounts of patience. It will take time to get this right. It is very difficult to distinguish marks even when they're well-made, and nailing down your method for making marks will also take some time.

    With regards to your blanks, you do not need to buy specialty soft blanks. It is definitely possible to impression with normal stock blanks, which is what I do. Softer keys will certainly make it easier to generate marks, but if you're just starting, it will also increase the risk of you bending or breaking keys before you've finished cutting them.
u/HawkingRadiation_ · 3 pointsr/Bladesmith

Depending on the intricacy if the design you might want some needle files .

u/Gungyver · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

If you use something like the TAM74104 Tamiya Tools - Basic File Set - Smooth Double-Cut, it will cut down the time it takes to sand down a nub. Here's a link if you want to try them: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CE3L96K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to

For despite there price of 8.15 with (prime free shipping) there great files, I just love my set. These can also be used on metals.

u/w2tpmf · 2 pointsr/guns

The Polymer 80 kit comes with everything you need to finish the lower (minus the parts you put into it). Lower, jig, drill bits, and an end mill bit. It's super easy. Get yourself a set of precision files to clean up some of the tighter spots.

u/redyellowblue5031 · 2 pointsr/mobilerepair

This tool kit may be more than you want to spend, but mine is an amalgam of random stuff that just lasts. I built this kit over 3 years ago and the only thing I've replaced is the Hakko bent tweezers because I used to abuse them. It is my opinion that good tools pay for themselves if you do something regularly with them.

Phillips Driver: Moody 000

Pentalobe: Wiha PL1

Opening tool that I've sharpened into a square blade on one end and a standoff screw remover on the other: Metal spudger

Used to be more relevant when I did more gen 2/3/4 iPads for quick bezel cleaning: 3/32 stubby flathead

Curved tweezers (so many uses): Hakko

Spudgers that last (unless you really abuse them): Menda

Best Y000 for iPhones I've found so far (this one I'm not married to): Bunkaikoubou

The flat file in this set: File

One of those cheap driver sets for bigger stuff like torx, etc. I don't work on stuff that really beats those bigger bits up, so I buy a cheap set for that.

Any dental pick for getting shit out of charge ports, etc.

Edit: I'm sure you can shop around and find cheaper prices, and I also do not claim these are the absolute best tools, just that my set of this stuff has lasted over 3 years and I repair mobile devices full time.

u/beachandbyte · 2 pointsr/CR10

Needle nose pliers, the little snippers that come with your printer and cheap files. I'll also add that you rarely need supports for the inside of circles. I can print very large circles without the need for supports.

Here are the files I use, https://www.amazon.com/Needle-HIGHEST-QUALITY-Hardened-Strength/dp/B01MRCZKIX

u/jesterwoods · 2 pointsr/Scrollsaw

I got a set of these. There is really just one in the set I used regularly. Flat on one side and curved on the other, coming to a small point at the end.

http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Piece-Hobby-Carded-Length/dp/B00002N5JT/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407434449&sr=8-2&keywords=small+files

u/sinefine · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/AWandMaker · 2 pointsr/Wandsmith

I have this set of diamond needle files and they work great. There’s a bunch of different shapes so you can get into any spot, they are cheap, and they last forever when used against wood. I use them all the time for spirals.

u/bolts-n-bytes · 2 pointsr/SharpyMcSharpins

Definitely don’t want to do it yourself? I haven’t yet but I’ve thought about it a lot, all you would need is some diamond files like this:

Link:
SE 10-Piece Diamond Needle File Set with 150 Grit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0011565LG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wsGwDbBF9SYBZ

u/greanone · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

these are the ones I use for reference

u/earthsavior · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I don't know what to tell you with specifics for Spain, but I can give you some general info that may or may not be helpful to you.

First off, there's this link in the sidebar. It'll give you a bunch of options.

Your hobby knife and mouldline remover will be the same thing. The handles all function the same way. However, I'd recommend picking up some kind of hobby knife set so you get a variety of blade shapes to try and multiple handles to use. #11 blades are the standard, and I prefer X-acto brand, but your mileage may vary. Some larger blade sizes won't fit into smaller handles. Buy in bulk to save money. You can remove mouldlines with the back of a blade, rather than a separate tool.

Any kind of cheap and well-reviewed wax tool / clay tool / dental tool set will work for scupting. Same deal with needle file sets. And with your pin vise. The drill bits will break (for any set), though, and bits can be problematic to replace if you're not sure of exact sizing.

u/woodular · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Maybe start your hole with a forstner, do as much as you can with a smaller spade bit, then finish up with the original forstner. That's if you really need a flat-bottomed hole. If you're going all the way through, just start with the forstner so you get a clean start, then go the rest of the way with the spade. That's if you don't need a clean back hole. If you need a clean in and out, a forstner-spade-forstner sequence might do the trick. I think my forstners and spades that are the same size are actually enough different that you'd have to finish with the original forstner, either way.


Get a pack of diamond files.

Here's a quick how-to. You can use water as a lube when using diamonds.

u/BaconVape · 2 pointsr/OpenPV

I used a glue stick to cover the box with paper and drew out the dimensions of the meter. After that I drilled holes to cut out most of the area and finished squaring off the hole with small hobby files, like the ones in the FAQ. These files: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416093199&sr=1-2&keywords=tekton+files

u/Ecclesius · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I also suggest a set of diamond files to file off the prints.

I got mine a week ago, and my prints look a lot better with some love.

u/even_level_horror · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

I did, it's very easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. I used this diamond needle file set I got off Amazon

u/pizza_is_a_lie · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

That file? Not very well, no. You need one where the file pattern is present on the end of the file like the far-end one here. This means that you can get right in to the cap to smoothen it off!

I used a pair of wire cutters similar to these to cut the rest of the cap away to leave just the stem.

If you're LightningXI, I've just messaged you!

u/erleichda_archiving · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thank you.

I used Sunkee Brand from Amazon. They are just barely the right size. In order to get the Pro Micro to fit I had to use a small round file to taper the openings on the PCB for the pins of the sockets. You really need to be careful, it would be easy to rip the pads off the pcb, so go slow. By doing this it also allowed the socket row to set firm on the pcb so it was very easy to get it at a 90 deg angle to the pcb, turn over the pcb and solder the socket row into place. I snip the pins flush, so the solder points are nice and smooth.. but you do not have to do that.

I was lucky, the problem was staring me in the face... I actually took a photo of it during the build and did not see it until later. There was a part below the USB jack that had not been soldered during manufacture. See that C106 part? The end is clearly not soldered. I have a very tiny solder tip so was able to just heat it and drop a tiny spot of solder.

I started investigating because everything except the far right column, column 12 with BackSpace, Quote, Enter and Right Arrow... did not work. I thought it was a bad diode but as soon as I looked at the Pro Micro it was clear. I was lucky, did not even have to take the Pro Micro off.

But socketing is a MUST with Pro Micro's. I use a half a Nyquist at work and this AM the USB broke right off... I have to take it home tonight and throw a new Pro Micro on there and re-flash it. I am going to try and add some kind of epoxy somehow too... these things are WAY too fragile for what we need them to do. I plug an unplug mine almost every day... even with a magnetic cable this one broke.

Good luck.

u/HappyWulf · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

Here's a big fat messy shopping list I made for someone a while ago. You might find it useful too.

http://www.amazon.com/Quickshade-Ink-Warpaints-Army-Painter/dp/B00HC8D80W
Amazon.com: Quickshade Ink Set Warpaints Army Painter

http://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Technology-Zap-Zap-Adhesives/dp/B00SXJJ2QI
Amazon.com: Pacer Technology (Zap) Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1 oz

http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y
Amazon.com : General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. : Brush Soap

http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargame-Starter-Paint/dp/B01BJ55UDQ
Buy Army Painter Wargame Starter Paint Set - PLUS Promo Undead figure

http://www.amazon.com/280715-American-Accents-Primer-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LLZW?
Buy Rust Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, White Primer, 12-Ounce

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS?
TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece

http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3311-Precision-Knife-Blades/dp/B0000DD1N4?
Buy Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades

http://www.amazon.com/Most-Wanted-Wargamer-Set/dp/B007H4YR8S
Amazon.com: 1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Brush Set

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters

http://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Standard-2-Part-Hardening-Yellow/dp/B011BO9R5W
Amazon.com: 2 X Milliput Standard 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Yellow/Grey

Edit: Of, and I used this guide for making my Thinner. http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/15 But I'm going to experiment more, because this is not perfect.

u/myinvisibilitycloak · 2 pointsr/Woodcarving

OK, here's my experience, but in general, just go with what /u/bandit69 says if he shows up. He's the wise old man around these parts.(Although for all I know, "he" could be a 27 year old girl. I like to think of him as a wise old man in a rocking chair.)

Anyhow, back to why I'm here:

I made so many mistakes when I started out and one of those mistakes was being afraid of using wood finish because I thought I would mess it up. I used mineral oil for a while. Definitely don't do that unless you're making cutting boards.

There's a difference between wood stain and wood finish. Wood stain adds color. I've never used wood stain before.

Wood finish is what protects the wood from water/scratches/bumps and makes it look shiny (although you can buy matte finish that doesn't add shine at all). Wood finish will deepen the natural color of the wood (the way wood looks when it is wet).

There are a bunch of different kinds and after using a few, I've settled on clear shellac premixed in a can from Home Depot.

A lot of people use oil-based polyurethane, and it's a beautiful choice, it just takes a lot longer to dry than shellac and I am impatient.

Whether you're using poly or shellac, you'll want to brush on a coat, let it dry, lightly sand, and then repeat the process 3-4 times. It won't look good after just one coat. Being impatient, I don't like this process, but I do it because the results are so beautiful.

I have found that applying wood finish with a bristle brush (as opposed to a foam brush) produces better results.

For sanding in crevices, I use one of these. I have also used a nail file in the past.

Overall, wood finishing is not as complicated as it sounds and you can definitely do it.

u/polican · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

In addition to whats listed here:

Self Healing Cutting Pad

Roll of paper towels

Exacto Knife with spare blades

Mini Files

Pin Vise (aka Mini Drill)

u/canteen_boy · 2 pointsr/guns

You're going to need to get that down a bit further or the recoil spring assembly will get caught. A round bastard file will make that easy.

u/slick519 · 2 pointsr/Chainsaw

goofy filing is difficult, and will take you quite a bit of practice to get good at it.

tips:

  1. start at the back of the bevels (there are three that are simultaneously filed!) and rock forward ever so slightly, so you are filing the edge at the very last portion of your stroke. if you start out on the cutting edges of the bevels, your file will grab and you will take a lot more than you may desire to.
  2. file with your bar in a vice, with your chain tensioned moreso than you would have while running it. chain brake ON. these things will help stabilize each cutting tooth while you swear and bleed all over your work bench.
  3. always file in a place with good lighting.
  4. double bevel files are better than tri-corner files. Triangle files like these, will not work. you can also try out goofy files, which are starting to grow on me. it makes a less aggressive profile, which can be preferable in some situations.
  5. if you have some extra cash lying around, check out the ATOP jig. you can also modify a regular granberg chainsaw jig to work, but it isn't as consistent as the ATOP jig, IMO.

  6. find someone to teach you, or at least find someone you can watch and observe. it is way, way different than filing with a round file, and you have to steadily maintain three bevel angles at the same time. doing it freehand will take a lot of practice!
  7. you will fuck up some chains while learning. if you have some old round ground chains that are still square chisel, you can take a flat file to them, and file back the top plate to the 10^o to "reset" the chain for square chisel filing. trying to convert a round ground chain to square chisel chain (without doing this step), is extremely frustrating. you need the 'shelf' to help guide the file.

    here are some other resources:

    http://treefalling.com

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjAeRF0Vedc



    hope this helps! it took me a long time to get anywhere close to being able to free-hand. building the muscle memory to accurately push a file in that orientation is a long process for most.
u/conradburner · 2 pointsr/EDC

If you like the puzzle of it perhaps making bump keys would also interest you, mini file set with blank keys can be useful https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058EDUM8/

u/TheBoldManLaughsOnce · 2 pointsr/AskCulinary

Try a hardware store. Ask for a wood rasp. Then pat yourself on the back for paying half as much as you wood in a cooking store.

http://www.amazon.com/WOODSTOCK-D3113-3-Piece-Rubber-Handles/dp/B0000DD4KE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375906753&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+rasp

u/Jumpin_Joeronimo · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I just started using files to shape wood this week and it surprised me how easy it is. Now, I am shaping larger pieces but I would imagine smaller rasps or files would really help out.

Maybe someone else can give more information, but below are a few examples.

Detail Rasp Set

Small files

u/ArchmageMomoitin · 2 pointsr/headphones

If you are going to do this on an ATH, I would highly recommend getting a rounded bastard file.

It will make your life so much easier, I was using a triangle file that has inconsistent sizing all along it so trying to file the slot for the audio jack was a bit of a nightmare.

u/bward42 · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

I'm about 1/2 way through my assembly. Here's a few tips:

u/blasterdad · 2 pointsr/Nerf

nice!

I use jewelers files for the majority of my cleanup...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPUKYS/

u/woodkeys_click · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Best bet is probably to pick up a needle file set. Something like this. I had some CNC wooden ones that I miscut, so I put one of my 1mm bits on a dremel and managed to clean them up well enough. For reference, the slots are about 1.3-1.5mm which is less than 1/16".

u/ReverendDangles · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

For mold lines, I use an x-acto knife and just scrape across the lines. Something like this.

I also use some hobby files for the sprue bits and smoothing.

Before I got an airbrush, I used to prime with the Testors flat black spray paint. Make sure you don't spray too close to the mini and do it in short, quick bursts to preserve model detail.

You could prime with Retributor gold spray for stormcast but I personally would prime black and then paint gold. Metallics seem to shine better when painted over black IMO.

u/A_Str8 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

A friend of mine who paints minis recommended that I get small files to clean up my prints. I just got some from Amazon and tried them out last night. They make a huge difference

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUKYS

u/RodBlaine · 1 pointr/modelmakers

This may be it.

I’ve got a similar set and they work well, had it for 7 years now.

u/ihitrecord · 1 pointr/EDC
u/Zangori · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Not sure where your are looking to find them 'too expensive'.

Pin Vise

Tamiya Basic File Set

Tamiya Plastic Scriber II

Those are cheap and or par the course for finding them elsewhere. I don't think going with used tools is a good idea when you can get them new for very reasonable prices on amazon.

u/eems12 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I would also give nod to the matte top coat. It doesn't completely hide the scratches from sanding but it makes it almost invisible unless you try and look for them. Only painting will completely hide them.

As for how I remove nubs I recently started using these to get as close as possible and sand it with a 600 grit sandpaper to make the scratches a bit smoother.

Another method that I use if the file is too large to fit somehow is to use as hobby/xacto knife and get it flush. I hope these help.

u/weretuna · 1 pointr/AskReddit

A file set should do the trick.

u/gfpumpkins · 1 pointr/DIY

Can you explain this a bit further? I've read the top few google hits for 'rasp woodworking' and actually realized that I used one way back in middle school (?)(high school?) when I took basic wood working. Is it just a matter of starting at coarse and going towards fine (like sanding)? I see Amazon actually carries a few, would something like this be reasonable?

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it!

u/Aperture_Kubi · 1 pointr/Gunpla

What about using something like this?

u/_douglas · 1 pointr/Pottery

To smooth out the bare clay on your pot's foot, use a diamond pad under running water so you are not breathing in silica.

If you want to sharpen a tool use a diamond file. Even if you use cheap tools that you don't care about, sharpening by hand will let you get the best edge, and it will not go dull as quickly since you are not heating the metal up.


u/theboredlockpicker · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Sorry man. Busy ass day. this is the file I use

u/victoryfanfare · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Yes! Acquire some tiny needle files for detail work. Small emery boards (even from the dollar store) work too :) You also want to go very light on filler primer on these details; more primer will just obliterate details rather than fill crevices/steplines.

As a rule I avoid using Dremels on 3D prints in general; they often create enough heat to warp and melt the plastic rather than truly sand it.

u/White_Wafflez · 1 pointr/knifemods

I'd suggest staying away from a Dremel unless you're reeeeeaaaalllllyyyyy careful. Power tools can take off to much at a time if you slip up.

I would suggest getting some diamond needle files from Amazon (like $8 for the set) and using those. It will take longer but less chance of a massive oops

[Needle file link](SE 73810DF 10-Piece Mini Diamond Needle File Set, 150 Grit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019N6CV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gjm1BbT3WABEQ)

u/Orgell_Evaan · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I have a couple sets similar to these - the secret when filing is minimal pressure. The goal isn't to saw the part in half, after all.

u/Roygbiv856 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

What about these bad boys?

u/-BreakingPoint0 · 1 pointr/guildball

This is what I used for files:

https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-and-Model-Files-Set/dp/B001AE7RRO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498081654&sr=8-2

Not sure the grit, but they work great!

As for bits... What are you using to pin with? I started with Privateer Press models so I just got their pinning set. Comes with a bunch of metal to pin with and then 2 or 3 bits. Work great for me! It was one of these three, I forget the exact size I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=P3+Pinning+Expansion

As for getting more bits: I would just search Amazon for pin vice bit set or just pin vice set. That will be what you're looking for. I don't know of any place that would sell individual sets of small bits except for a specialty hardware store or a hobby store(Michaels, ACMoore, etc)

u/H4lek1n · 1 pointr/Warhammer

get something like this, with the drills maybe in your local measurements.

then a set of files like this or a complete set like that. than this strange substance.

consider this in case he gets funny. some collection of magnets like those. prices vary drasticly, again go for local measurement system. he will probably need 1x1mm, 2x1mm, 3x2mm. just check if the drills you got and the magnets fit size wise and the magnets have to be neodynium.

​

i am not very familar with skaven so i cant give much advice on models but i assume this one will make him happy. it qualifizes for "anything really cool", can be used to build different things he might like and you can use the stuff mentioned above to fill out the rest of the budget if you like.

​

this overrated book vendor in the links was just used as example of product and quality and prizes of products will vary drastically. with this stuff you cant make too much wrong with going cheap.

somebody from your country might offer you a good vendor. i cant really suggest specific products since they maybe are not availlable where you are from.

​

my most sincere condolences that you lost your partner to plastic crack :(

u/Skeleton_Combatant · 1 pointr/Gunpla

https://www.amazon.com/TAM74104-Tamiya-Tools-Smooth-Double-Cut/dp/B00CE3L96K?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00CE3L96K

​

tamiya files are a good start. you dont need to go all in with some super expensive ones

​

as far as sand paper goes i use sanding sticks that are washable so I can wet sand. but paper is fine too

​

heres a great tutorial video on sanding

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF7AluLTDoc

u/IronColumn · 1 pointr/bicycling
u/CreeperDays · 1 pointr/saplings

Diamond files like these would work well. These come in handy more than you'd think.

u/RoostrC0gburn · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

different inserts probably wont fix it. this is a typical problem with costar stabilizers. this is fixable.

the issue is that the opening is not big enough for the insert to fit into without bending. you need to either file out some of the opening in the plate, or some of the insert where it clips into the plate.

i suggest filing the insert because it is plastic, and thus easier. i suggest using a needle file. here is a cheap set

just a little bit at a time. you dont want these to sit loose when you're done

http://i.imgur.com/y7Ee4xs.png

u/studiouspanda · 1 pointr/lockpicking

Thanks everyone for the advice everyone, I probably would have bought them had I found them yesterday, but I decided to go the DIY route. Since picking must be a very budget conscious hobby for me, I went ahead and took the plunge and bought the important tools. I figured making my own pins would be difficult and require a lot of crazy equipment, but I looked into it and realized it was a lot easier than expected. So just for anyone who's curious, here's what I got:

  • $50 Kwikset rekey/pin set from eBay. 200 of each type of pins, 8 types of pins. Clips, followers, springs, and anything else needed to reassemble locks. That leaves enough pins to make absolutely every security pin that I know of, as well as any others that I find from watching people pick challenge locks. There are a good variety of these sets, so you can save some money here by getting only 50 or 100 of each pin type if you prefer. I just decided to start off big so I hopefully never have to buy another.
  • $35 Rotary Tool. Used for a huge variety of DIY projects, including and excluding lockpicking. There are some cheaper options, but in my opinion you're better off buying at least a decent one to start so you don't have to upgrade later.
  • $7 Needle File Set. Used in conjunction with your rotary tool as cutting/smoothing tools
  • $25 Base Vice. Also is very useful for holding locks while picking.

     

    So in total $112 for all the components needed to make as many locks as I can imagine, many of which can be used for other projects.

     

    To add supplies for a few other DIY projects I also added:

  • $6 Rotary Tool Bit Set. Used for various DIY projects.
  • $9 Cutting Wheels for your Rotary tool.
  • $6 Wood Plank. I'll use this along with the dremel bit set above to make a nice pinning tray.
  • $2 12" x 0.5" x 0.023" Stainless Steel Feeler Gauge. Used to make picks, tension rods, etc. making it $2 per 2-3 tools. If the thickness you want is expensive/in short supply on amazon you can buy directly from the manufacturer here but in my experience the shipping is slower and the price is usually a ~$0.10 higher per 12" rod. If you really get into making DIY tools you can buy stainless steel feeler coils from easterngage which are 25' x 0.5" x 0.15"/0.18"/0.23"/0.25"/0.26" or any thickness you want really. For 25', depending on the thickness it'll cost you anywhere from $50.64 to $64.95. You might need the 1" wide coils for making double sided tension tools.

     

    So another $21 brings it to $133 plus $2 per 2-3 tools that you need. Add in this $6 case and a few $4-$6 practice locks around aliexpress (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th 5th, 6th, 7th), and you've got a great starter kit that sets you up to DIY anything you might need in the future. I also took advantage of Peterson's mega christmas sale (plus the 10% discount code they gave us) and got a ~$25 order of $1-$3 picks to start me off
u/G4mer260 · 1 pointr/3dprinter

I agree I wasn’t to impressed with that orange that was shipped with the machine the quality of the material was just bad and never printed well. Oddly enough that seems to be the popular color when I do token gifts for the different holidays like Easter and such. I should order a wider range of colors as I always get asked if you have x color and I don’t.

As for storage I just went into Walmart and bought a simple food vacuum sealer and will just do a run when I have multiple spools open. I never thought of a ziplock bag I would assume if you could get it airtight it should work but even short term I would think it would work. Those storage bins I agree takes up way to much room so I never thought of them.

Now air quality has always been a question many ask and as far as PLA the general consensus is that it’s safe and should be non toxic. Now ABS that is a different thing that is toxic and depending on the brand just smells awful so that is something you need to vent the room. Some people will install air filters on their enclosures when they print that stuff. As far as all the other materials types I am not sure. I got a spool of carbon fiber and PETG but have yet to print with it. The wood pla I did print with had a little smell to it but I think was more from the sawdust than anything else. This glow in the dark dark material I’m trying out this week seems fine as well as far as I can tell. Guess it all depends on what chemical they use to make this stuff.

Let’s see for materials I got right now I have a roll of glow in the dark, carbon fiber, wood pla, pc-max white , black petg, and for pla I got black (multiple), white (multiple), red, blue, silver, gold, transparent neon yellow, and then a couple spools of abs I got free that will most likely never be used. Well I got that orange to but I basically don’t talk about it as I just hate the quality it prints at so it’s most likely just going to be be tossed at some point.

As far as what I print it’s basically what ever I find that I think would be fun to print with. Sort of similar with my color choices. I try and do something fun for the holidays as token gifts and they generally are a hit. Once I get enough time to learn fusion360 I do plan to create my own models just never feels like I got the time to.


So figured I list some things I bought/printed to use with my printer.

Thingiverse.com/thing:647425

  • this is a set of stackable storage bins. I scaled them up going almost the full build plate on the length and width and just upped the height a little. I found these useful for multiple part prints as I can throw the pieces in them and keep them all in one place.

    Flesh cutters
  • this it just handy if you need to trim a brim off a print

    Hobby knife
  • this is a similar purpose as the flesh cutters just for when I need to trim something off a model

    Needle nose pliers
  • just overall handy to have on hand

    Dremel
  • this isn’t used much but I found it handy a couple times if I need to sand/cut a large piece off a print.

    Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Glue. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  • this is just awesome to have when you want to glue parts together. It sets in seconds and it’s a strong bond.

    91% isopropyl alcohol
  • this is handy for wiping off your bed before a print or just when ever you are having surface problems. I was using cotton swabs like you would use to remove makeup but lately I been using microfiber cloths and they work just as good.

    Stainless steel ruler
  • I picked up a 12” one that has mm on it and just handy to have

    Blue painters tape
  • this has come in handy for the times when prints don’t want to stick and for when I paint the prints

    Adjustable wrench
  • this is great when you need to change nozzles on the printer as you can use it to hold the heat sink

    Socket set
  • this is also for changing the nozzle just easier to prevent yourself from being burned just don’t over tighten the nozzle

    Digital caliper
  • if you are going to make your own models this is just a must.

    Small file
  • I bought a set of small files so I can sand off burs or other defects on overhangs and bridges. This is the set I bought but just what I thought would work.
  • https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRCZKIX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

    Head lamp and small flashlight
  • I don’t use these very often but I sometimes use the flashlight for seeing the first layer better and the head lamp is just handy when working on the printer so you have that extra light but not having to hold a flashlight.

    Can of compressed air
  • just handy for removing dust or other material from the fans

    As for painting I bought a airbrush and such I don’t paint very often but maybe more in the future so I just have some basic stuff you buy with that. Sand paper in different grits, small paint brushes, paints, primer and so forth.

    Oh and never use acetone on your print bed it just dissolves the bed surface they use with there printer and destroys it.

    For oil I just been using a drop every now and then of some all purpose machine oil that I bought for the sowing machine and it’s worked fine. Little goes a long ways just cover your build plate before applying to keep any from dripping down. As for grease I don’t know I never used any and not sure what to suggest.

    But that’s basically what I got around my printer outside of the set of tools that came with the printer. It’s all stuff that at one point in time I found useful. Well that and a small trash can for all the scrap material from prints.
    At some point I want to design my own desktop organizer I know people got designs for them but I just want something personal.
u/0t1sdrugs · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Links to cheap files.

Link

Link

Link

u/priest144 · 1 pointr/lockpicking
u/Vonderboy · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I use hard Wave sticks too and love them. They sand very flat (something I liked files for) but are quite gentle on the plastic in terms of deap scratches. BUT for some reason the 800 grit is disconnected like in your link. Anyone know where else you can get it?

In terms of files I have the Tamiya basic , Tamiya fine basic , and a (hopefully) nicer plastic hobby file on order just to try. Files are nice for larger jobs like serious molding flaws (not common in Bandai kits) and the fine ones are OK for nubs but still quite rough compared to any sanding stick. Although, as you know I'm sure, files last forever and require much less effort and time to chew through plastic. I'm hoping the plastic file is the Holy grail and is a good balance. I bought a set of needle files and diamond files from harbor freight and they blow. The trash just don't grip or cut don't waste your $3.

And as a reference I own Revell, squadron , nail buff sticks, and have made my own sticks from automotive sand paper. The nail files are way too rough imo, making my own is a pain, and while the squadron sticks are nice I mainly only used the tri-grit while I used all the Revell except the roughest and are probably the best value imo. I still use the other more flexible kinds but dramatically prefer wave. Wish the 800 grit still were available.

Long post sorry. Hope it helps

Edits: spelling, phrasing, and lots of links

u/Cursed989 · 1 pointr/minipainting

I'm a big fan of Army Painter products. I've had pretty good luck with them so I'm kind of slanted towards them. So I recommend...

1- a set of these brushes.

2- Any of the Army Painter primers are good. But this is my favorite. Coats and covers well. Also works for a lot of different models.

3- A set of these have come in handy for me several times.

4- These clear bases are my favorite. I've rebased several figures with these. Love them for there ability to show the terrain the figure is standing on.

5- And a cheap basecoat sized brush for mixing paints and brushing on quickshades.

This is obviously just my opinion. But I hope it helps.

u/dontmatterwhatisay · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have these rasps that i got off of amazon. They're cheap and leave a very rough surface but they take off material at a decent pace.

After that move onto a regular file. In fact, if you used a four-in-hand it would have everything you need to do the shaping.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/woodworking
u/37TS · 1 pointr/airsoft

https://www.eternaltools.com/blog/top-10-uses-for-diamond-files

Bought a cheap one on amazon: it cuts through steel like it's butter (in seconds) and polymers are like cardboard with that thing.
Mine is a replacement for an arc saw, though, something like the following should be enough (they have the same surface as mine, meaning, real industrial diamonds).
https://www.amazon.com/HTS-101I0-180mm-40-600-Diamond/dp/B00292IOAA

Also, if you don't know this yet, industrial diamonds are man made, artificially. They have no value as jewels, hence the lowest price ever.

u/megatom0 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I posted a review in the comments section if you want to read that. The fits are kind of all over the place some stuff fits nice, other stuff is way too loose, a lot of it especially if you paint it requires a lot of sanding and filing to get them to fit so make sure to pick up some of these. They will make it relatively easy to get the fit right. I would say I ended up gluing about 60% of it together though, so look at it like a glue kit that has some parts that snap together. I also did this because there is a lot going on with each unit of it, and it really builds on itself. I did not want anything shaking loose so even stuff that fit well I would glue just to be sure. In spite of all of this, if you are an experienced modeler, I would recommend this kit. It is definitely a challenge, it makes you work for it.

My work flow for the assembly basically became filing down a fitting, making sure it fit, then gluing it

I would say make sure you have a couple of PGs under your belt before this, I'd also recommend having experience with older glue kits, and probably some of the mod kits or resin kits as well. It isn't easy like Bandai but I legitimately did have fun with this kit.

If you end up getting it and have questions about it feel free to contact me.

u/SSBM_Tylt · 1 pointr/SSBM

Like this?

u/BlahblahNomad · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Used to happen to me all the time. Get a decent, or cheap, hobby saw and file set. I got these from Amazon real cheap and they work so well compared to a razor and/or knife.

u/moldyputty · 0 pointsr/woodworking

Yeah, they're not through mortises, but I still want as much wood grain in contact with wood grain as possible to let the glue do its work properly, right?

Also thanks for the link. I don't have any files so far. Does it make sense to drop the $35 on what I assume is a high quality file, or spend $20 on an undoubtedly lower quality 6-piece set like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D3112-Rubber-Handles-6-Piece/dp/B0000DD4KD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457216402&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+working+files

Keeping in mind of course that I'm a hobbyist, not a pro and right now can't afford the "buy the last tool first" mindset.