Best hand punches according to redditors
We found 356 Reddit comments discussing the best hand punches. We ranked the 147 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 356 Reddit comments discussing the best hand punches. We ranked the 147 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
the porcelain is much harder than the glass. Once tempered glass takes more than around 15000 psi it shatters. The porcelain does that in an incredibly small area. It does not work on regular glass or laminated glass (front windshield)
edit:adding this is what he should have used. Also cars with power windows should have these in case you drive into the water.
Spring loaded center punch.
Anyone ever DIY a rep?
It's not a bag, but I did DIY an LV jacket that I saw on Alicia Vikander and became obsessed with. I wasn't about to fly to Hong Kong and drop $9k+ on the Auth, but being a bit crafty myself I thought I could DIY it easy enough.
I bought this suede blazer on Poshmark for ~$30. Then I bought the screw-on silver dome rivets on eBay in the 11.5mm and 19.5mm sizes ($28) and some silver chains on AE in 7.5cm and 10cm lengths (~$8).
I made a hole in the lining of the sleeve and using a leather hole punch I affixed the domes and hooked the chains between them.
Here is the final product! The weather is finally cooling down in NYC where I can wear it soon! You can still see where the original sleeve buttons were but I know that will rub out soon. It's not exactly like the Auth since I worked with the details of the blazer I had, but I feel like it still has the same feel. Not bad for ~$60!
Let me know what you think! It was a really fun project, very soothing, especially with the Great British Baking Show playing in the background.
Just a heads up: You can buy a window punch for like $10 and it takes up very little room in your glove box. Its a useful tool for emergencies including situations like this
Punches for making holes in leather
Super helpful, especially with those tiny bolt stop pins, if you're building an upper or lower. At $5, its just good to have.
ETA - 21 left at 3:38 CST
ETA 2 - What kind of savage downvotes $5 shipped tools?
ETA 3 - $5 set is OOS @ 3:57 CST
ETA 4 - Stainless is $8 shipped if you have Amazon Prime
That's like $60 in tools.
I'd recommend an $8 Amazon purchase.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS?ie=UTF8&keywords=belt%20holes%20puncher&qid=1465422789&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
Get a center punch. Old EMS trick of the trade. You don't have to worry about having room to wind up or possibly fighting gravity if you're the one in the car, and if you're not, you don't have to use it in the center of the windshield (i.e. not right in someone's face).
Nope. /u/wlxd left his referral URL in there, and I'm betting that's it. Here's a clean version of the link which should work and not get caught by automod.
Very nice quiver and thanks for my next project. I really love working with leather.
For those who want to get started it's not that expensive of a hobby. As for leather it's actually fairly cheap and most projects don't go over $25 in supplies. It's about $100 to get the tools you'll need and although their not top of the line they will last quite a while.
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As someone with training in breaking car windows (firefighter) I can tell you there are ways to do it that will only cost some one a window and mild clean up.
If you are just going to hurl a rock through the window, I think you should be held liable because this is extremely unsafe and causes way more damage then is necessary. I've been to scenes were idiots have sprayed glass all over victims. I've broken hundreds of car windows and there's no need to fill someone's car with shards.
Carry a window punch if you want to be a potential pet rescuer. https://www.amazon.com/Police-EMS-Emergency-Window-Punch/dp/B001W8A1HQ
This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.
I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.
The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.
Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80
Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M
Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0
Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE
Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2
TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680
TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW
IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0
Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E
Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB
Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D
Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF
TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH
Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5
Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block
Hollow punches
https://www.amazon.com/SE-791LP-Heavy-Duty-12-Piece-Hollow/dp/B000KE17JO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518233355&sr=8-3&keywords=hollow+punch+set
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494270825&sr=8-4&keywords=hole+punch+tool
If I may recommend a better tool than the "cheap bits"....I built a HERMS kit a couple years ago with a single step carbide bit and one of these Manual Knockout Punch Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012F8GCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hsnOybVW95Y7Q
Most likely, the interlocking surface between the clamp and the actual seatpost has been damaged by the seatpost working loose. One way to keep it from slipping is to mar both surfaces with something like a spring punch and maybe some friction paste, then tighten the hell out of it. If that doesn't work, you probably just need a new seatpost.
just fyi, all those window break tools are grabage, if you want to ensure you break the window quick and easy, get one of these.
Source: My 50 year old uncle who has been in the auto glass business since he was 17, he bought everyone in the family one of these for christmas, years ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6C5Ytc5Soc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yHlI_8TGA4
auto centre punch
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch/dp/B0037UUO60
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRDBGY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got it because I figure it can be used in the future for craft projects and such as well.
If you want a clean cut that is very easy I highly recommend a knockout punch.
https://www.amazon.com/Central-91201-Manual-Knockout-Punch/dp/B0012F8GCQ
You drill a small hole to get the tool through and then punch out the hole in your kettle. Takes less time, looks better, and makes a cleaner cut. Fair warning some are sized in inches and others by the size of pipe that can fit through (like the link below) it so read before you buy.
https://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-10-pc-60575.html
I got myself one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/C-S-Osborne-223-Revolving-Multi-sized/dp/B00004YZQC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1332355339&sr=8-4
I have now made 2 new holes in my belt. Feels prety good.
Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...
I guess I can repost my own post:
I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
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>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.
I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.
>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.
>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?
No you don't need a full size floor jack.
If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.
Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.
>Fix-a-flat kit
Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.
>Lights! and flares
(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)
For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.
That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.
> Screwdriver set with misc bits
Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.
> Socket set?
You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.
>Glass Breaker/ Hammer
Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...
>Fire Extinguisher
It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.
> A little portable air compressor
can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...
>Roll of duct tape (because obviously).
I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.
>Spare fluids.
Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.
> Tire pressure gauge.
To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.
> Jumper cables.
Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.
> A tow strap
is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.
> Tire chains.
Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.
> A shaker siphon
Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.
https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch/dp/B0037UUO60/
Buy these. Get the roll pin started with one of these, then squeeze it into place in a vise
The only way to successfully crimp a micro MOLEX connector is with this tool
Almost impossible to screw/drill in tight spaces without this
Need to punch a hole in an electrical box without spreading hazardous metal chips everywhere? Use this
Need to tighten the connections under a faucet? Good luck doing it without a basin wrench.
Need to fix a Moen shower valve by replacing the cartridge? Your fucked without the Cartridge Removal Tool that is absolutely useless for anything else.
If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.
I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.
Some other things you'll want to have handy:
Vice Block for Lower
Vice Block for Upper
Roll pin starter kit
Rubber Mallet
Torque Wrench
These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.
Best of luck!
EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!
Best tool for smashing windows is spring loaded center punch. However, I suspect that office tower windows might be laminated glass, so although you might be able to break it, you might not be able to get the broken glass out of the window.
A Leather Hole Punch, something like the one linked (but not that exact one).
30 bucks on amazon, and you can bitch to them and get a new set when you inevitably bend a punch or mar the nylon strike surface.
https://amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PZmwCb9WVZQ28
Same with the roll pin punch set. I've bent my smallest roll pin punch (gas block) a few times and the manufacturer just sent me a new one. I think it was less than $10.
IMO, the few bucks you're saving isn't worth buying used tools that you literally beat on with no warranty.
Also u need a price for WTB, please modify your post :)
Tempered glass, is pretty hard to break. You need a hardened glass breaker, or a really significant blow to break out a car window. Most of those cheapy fake glass breakers you see on knives and stuff, aren't actually hardened at all, and thus you rely entirely on your strength (and the small surface area of the strike face) to break the glass.
The easiest and cheapest approach is to keep an automatic center punch in your car. They're a couple bucks and you'll be able to break out in an emergency with minimal effort. The minimal effort part is something to keep in mind because you're probably going to be injured after a car crash, so you might not be up to the task of ape-smashing your way out of your car.
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch/dp/B0037UUO60/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457017401&sr=8-3&keywords=automatic+center+punch
Best place to start:
Buy this (which has all the parts you need except a stripped lower)
Buy a stripped lower
Buy a wrench
Buy some pin punches
You're all set for $600 out the door.
For the 2.5mm one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G08PEXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For the 3mm one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076FJ7SS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2.5mm is closer to American corners. 3mm is closer to Japanese corners.
What about something like this?
For what it's worth, you can buy a belt hole puncher for less than $7 on amazon.
I found your charging handle for almost $10 cheaper. You could cut the cost of the charging handle significantly by getting a one-handed one. I used the exact same lower build kit for my first AR. The lower build kit does not come with any tools. You're going to need some tools, such as a Castle Nut Wrench and a punch set
This is kind of optional, but you're going to need a spacer if you want to use iron sights (or else the iron sights will be blocked by the red dot sight. The spacer also helps a great deal is making it more comfortable, so your head isn't awkwardly tilted, obviously this will depend on your eye height.
Don't get discouraged if this seems confusing, if all else fails, watch an ar15 building tutorial and everything will be much clearer. Here's another tutorial. Good luck.
Even better thing to build coils on: roll pin punches
I got one of these. Totally worth it.
https://smile.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1524490737&sr=1-5&keywords=leather+punch
High quality punches make all the difference. Must be high quality tool steel. Grace USA - Steel Roll Spring Punch Set - RS7 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WADKN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1Bf5yb210M8D0 get a cheap set of starter punches also. Quality on these is a non issue really. Squirrel Daddy Roll Pin Starter Punch Set Hollow End Stainless Steel USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QO2XGRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8Gf5ybCTYBDBY
How about something smaller then like a spring loaded center punch.
Imo, I would wait until i can get the right tool. Some kind of leather puncher like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/
I know what you're picturing but the wheel on that tool is vertical and has round tube punches on it.
Edit: here you go:https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-02520A-Leather-Heavy-Gauge-Handle/dp/B0002T87FE
Heh yeah. Get something like this, maybe not as cheap, it makes drilling metal much easier and more precise.
Pretty much any punch should work. If you have a leather punch then go with that.
Otherwise you can find some cheap hollow punches on amazon.
I think it's smaller (5mm or 3/16in maybe?), but any craft store will have punches in a variety of sizes. You can also get adjustable punches that allow you to select the size by turning a wheel, like this leather punch. Useful to have around for DIY projects other than watch stickers, too!
I have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/C-S-Osborne-223-Revolving-Multi-sized/dp/B00004YZQC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1380696839&sr=8-5&keywords=leather+hole+punch
There's absolutely nothing to it. Just find the right sized punch, place a scrap piece of denim on the anvil side (prevents the punch from going dull), find your spot and punch through. You won't ruin your belt, how do you think the manufacturer got those holes there in the first place? Same way.
Or, like /u/automaticfantastic says, if the buckle is detachable, you can just simply shorten the belt with a utility knife and reattach the buckle.
I see in now, it is probably a window punch
Everyone should carry a window puncher for your car and keep it handy (ie NOT in the glovebox).
I don't think folks realize how a $5 tool can save your life.
I bought one of these a while ago from an Amazon vendor. It's heavy as fuck, but does the job.
EDIT: Don't know if you need other tools, but this seems like a pretty good deal too, since it also includes vise blocks and a front sight tool for not much more.
EDIT #2: You'll also want a roll pin punch set if you don't already have one. A roll pin starter set and a rubber/plastic mallet are nice to have but not absolutely needed.
I have these:
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-89-Piece-Deluxe-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver/dp/B001C63M7O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525651391&sr=8-4&keywords=wheeler+gunsmith+tools
and
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Hammer-Punch-Plastic-Case/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525651391&sr=8-5&keywords=wheeler+gunsmith+tools
When it comes to getting screw bits (if you're piecing together a set) it's important to make sure you get hollow grind bits as not to damage the screw heads.
It's snapped off at the bottom of that hole? Nothing you can do is guaranteed to work.
My favorite way is to use a center punch and a left handed drill bit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037UUO60/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XF3QYQ/
Push the center punch directly into the broken screw until it clicks. It's important to get as close to the middle of the screw as you can.
Next drill into the screw with the left hand bit (spinning the correct direction) until you go all the way through or the remains of the screw come out.
Since it's plastic, never use that screw hole again.
This one here
(Make sure to use Amazon Smile and donate to your favorite charity. More than a few pro-2A ones to choose from.)
You can solve this problem forever by getting a hole puncher. Shouldn't be much more than $10 at your local crafts store.
Build an AR. Literally grown up lego's.
Buy Roll pin punches, Grace makes good ones
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy high quality punches in general I recommend starret for the none roll pin type.
Buy a barrel vise The viper is excellent. http://shop.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/vises-accessories/barrel-vises/barrel-vise-sku100013367-58959-123515.aspx?cm_mmc=PPC-_-Itwine-_-Google-_-100-013-367&gclid=CjwKEAiAjIbBBRCitNvJ1o257WESJADpoUt0SFb6lBg-x3fdGfsdwZDF0XGfx8AMg43bfFV-DRafuhoCBhjw_wcB
Never hold a weapon by anything other than the barrel when applying 60+ foot pounds of torque if you can help it.
That all off the top of my head for now.
You could use a spring loaded center punch like this one to push the pin out:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037UUO60/
Once the head is out enough that you can get a flat screen driver our, just slowly pry the pin the rest of the way out.
Machinist here, That's an automatic center punch. They work great for shattering window glass! LPT, turn your face away and wear some hand protection...
I cant imagine making.a large hole in the middle of someone's carpet. I'd terminate my own ends. But you can try this:SE 791LP Heavy-Duty 12-Piece Hollow Punch Set with Zipper Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KE17JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PIL6xbS7ZK0DP
Fuck it lets order everything off amazon if possible.
punches $10 you might use two of them
hammer $6 and this is over kill you need it to set like 3 roll pins. One in the trigger guard, bolt release, and forward assist
Masking tape Like a dollar at walmart only need a little while installing pins.
Grease same stuff from ebay little cheaper. Will likely only need a 5ml container but two are only $5
Magpul Bev block. Different site but free shipping and a quick google search will show you who to contact for usually a %10 off
Torque wrench and vise you are on your own but someone you know should have them and you can usually get away without a torque wrench depending on what handguard you choose.
I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.
I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!
Life Pro Tip Addendum: For having Such a cool measuring belt to show off to your friends but using a sharp object and accidently cutting your wrist. Buy a Leather Punch.
Edit- Not being an ass I swear I have a belt I have done the same to. Also awesome progress!!
https://www.amazon.com/Radius-Deluxe-Corner-Rounder-Cutter/dp/B00G08PEXO/ref=pd_cp_469_1?pd_rd_w=Ws7o3&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=8RH8ZXP0CDX47VH61D4K&pd_rd_r=dc050288-bf46-4c97-9ae8-600b8e46d379&pd_rd_wg=slIm4&pd_rd_i=B00G08PEXO&psc=1&refRID=8RH8ZXP0CDX47VH61D4K
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This one is worth the little bit extra. QC has slipped recently, but they will ship replacements.
Look for something like this:
Revolving leather hole punch
For sure, just take your time and you'll eventually develop a method for assembly of each part.
The hardest by far is installing the mag catch roll pin. Using a lot of electrical tape and a ChannelLock Tongue and Groove pliers, you can usually press it in carefully.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Channellock-12-in-Tongue-and-Groove-Pliers-440/100002119
I recently bought a set of roll pin punches and along with a small hammer, has made starting and finishing that part much easier.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019303727/ar-stoner-ar-15-roll-pin-punch-set-7-piece-steel
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Hammer-Punch-Plastic-Case/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1538439501&sr=8-10&keywords=gunsmith+hammer+set
i'm not sure why people stopped using these...
conduit punch
right tool for the right job...
I clipped all my ASL counters(12,000+) with finger nail clippers and a jig I made from a CD case. I bought one of these back when he was selling them for 5 dollars, it works well also. Last year I bought this corner clipper it works ok, but you have to be careful when using it or you can mangle the counters. Clipped counters just look better on the maps/boards to me. It also makes the counter much more uniform for stacking purposes.
Also pick up a center punch. Just put the point on the center of your hole and push - it's spring loaded and makes a neat little indentation. Just center punch all your hole centers and grab your drill. This is also a couple bucks at harbor freight.
First buy some pin punches, like Grace or Tekton (avoid going cheap, they always break).
Then of course a proper hammer
Then some starter punches
Then some finishing punches (I know they say starter but they're better for finishing)
Yes, it costs money, but they pay for themselves. Also you don't have to dick around with taping things off as much if you have proper tools. The brass punches and the pin capturing starter punches help IMMENSELY in this area.
This was one of the best purchases I've made in the last year due to all of my weight loss as well
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-72-Leather-Punch/dp/B00004T7WS
Couldn't recommend it more. So easy to punch a hole and go.
These are the ones I have;
Roll Pin Starter Punch Set Hollow End all Stainless Steel USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QO2XGRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KYAPAbNFX5CHX
Fixxxer Hollow End Stainless Steel Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n9bvybCFXCASK these hollow roll pin punches. You simply insert them in the end and hammer away.
Yeah I'm looking at some on Amazon to be able to ship them with prime so they can get here sooner. As of right now I'm looking at this one. Price seems fair and looks to have everything I need.
http://www.amazon.com/Liekkas-Scimitar-Stainless-Pen-shaped-Screwdriver/dp/B013EWKDVG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451443114&sr=1-2&keywords=coil+building+kit
Buy a set of left handed drill bits and an automatic center punch.
Make a center guide hole to keep your bit in the middle, then just start with a small bit and go up sizes. Since the drill bits are left handed, your drill spins counter clock wise, so you have a good chance that the bit will catch and back the bolt out. If it doesn't, you at least made a hole for something like a bolt extractor set.
But by drilling the center out, you're releasing the tension on the threads, so as you go up in sizes on the left handed bits, you should have a good chance of unscrewing this.
You could also prep this thing by putting a few drops of penetrating oil and leaving it overnight to get into the threads.
I can't seem to find a full set of Irwin's carbide bits, they only seem to have packs of the same size, but a multi size pack exists so look around for that. It goes up in sizes from like 5/16" to like a quarter inch. You should get a few of the small bits as they are easy to break.
no problem man.
Any basic knife will do
flashlight: https://www.amazon.com/Tactical-Flashlight-EdisonBright-Lithium-Batteries/dp/B00DR9GWX0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503516912&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=fenix+flashlight&psc=1
Screwdrivers:https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Precision-Screwdriver-Computer-CTK100P/dp/B0001NYK16/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503517004&sr=1-1&keywords=micro+screwdriver+set
Tweezers:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXXQHS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Solder Iron:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRC2XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Solder Sucker:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIPKOW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Solder Station:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LXL6AHM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Solder Iron Tip Cleaner:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PQ32EPA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Spring Punch:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037UUO60/ref=twister_B01IRD4F34?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Wire cutters:https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-TR-20-M-D-Flush-cut-Construction-Dissipative/dp/B00FZPM2AQ/ref=sr_1_15?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503517519&sr=1-15&keywords=soft+wire+cutter
Roll pin starter punches are one of the best investments I ever made.
Otherwise... just tap them in with a small brass hammer and a pair of needle nose pliers.
Man I just finished this post and it's kind of long, oh well, that's what I get for staying up all night getting hopped up on diet soda like a rebel.
Start with buying a stripped lower, don't get hung up on brand names, there are only a handful of lower manufactures out there (I believe less than 10, maybe less than 5). Most companies have someone else make their lowers and stick their roll mark (the design on the side of the lower) on it then sell it at a 50% markup. This is the only part of the entire firearm that can not be shipped to your doorstep unless you have an FFL.
Next, since you don't want anything flashy, I would suggest the Palmetto State Armory Classic Lower Build Kit and bam, your lower is all done.
For your upper, I think I would stick to more reputable brands since there seem to be more manufacturers due to the lack of the involvement of headaches with the ATF, grab one with a lot of high reviews and then buy a PSA AR15 Upper Build Kit. For a barrel just go with whatever suits your taste, my preference is definitely 16" with a mid length gas system, it's a dream to shoot. I would recommend getting one with a front sight post already pinned on, if you decide you don't want it (like if you would want to install a free float hand guard), it's very easily replaced but if you get one without and decide you want it later it's probably the most involved/complicated thing you can even do with an ar-15. If you get a barrel with a pinned on front sight/gas block then grab the appropriate length hand guard for $20-$40 and then you need a muzzle device and a crush washer which should be about $8-$10. Buy some charging handle, everyone I know owns a Bravo Company gunfighter charging handle and loves it but I have heard a lot of good things about the Ranier Raptor charging handle as well.
Now, for a bolt carrier group, you do not want to assemble this at your kitchen table, at least not the carrier. The gas key staking is probably the most important part of the entire firearm in terms of reliability, I can't stress this enough, buy your bolt carrier from a reputable company, if you can get a Bravo Company bolt carrier group DO IT and don't look back. Once you get it, don't ever remove the gas key either, I wish I could find the video but I can't, it was of some youtube clowns running around with ar-15's and one of their rifles kept malfunctioning, he same something dumb like "I even removed the gas key and cleaned it out, I don't understand why it isn't cycling" later in the video he took out his bolt carrier and it was rattling like a paint can.
Also, factor tools in to your budget, probably around $50-100 depending on what you already have and how easily you want your build to go. The only thing you absolutely will need is an armorers wrench, everything else can be cheesed or is more for convenience. A torque wrench really should be used for the castle and barrel nuts, a center punch for staking the castle nut is actually cheaper than a tube of loctite, a small table clamp vice like this one should be sufficient if you don't have one already and a set of vice blocks will make your life easier when you torque stuff down, a set of roll pin punches and a non-marring hammer will keep everything nice and pretty but are not required if you take your time and go slow.
a leather hole puncher will make any belt fit. this blogger is a fan.
still, i second kale_no's advice. excess fabric won't drape well around the waist, even with a belt.
Personally, I like mid length gas system, but for the money
This has a carbine gas system and would be a better bang for your buck. All you'd need is a lower, Anderson would be just fine. Hopefully where you live you could still pick one up for around $50.
Buy this armorers wrench
Buy this roll pin set.
This is completely optional but if you've never built one before it will save your ass.
Punch it out from the other side. An “oops kit” from ebay will have the extra parts you commonly need or loose. Use some lube for the hole and the pin before you try and put it in should make it easier.... Ideally you will want to use punches made for gun building specifically an “ar 15 rolling pin starter punch” It has a hollow point and will prevent the splitting and make it easier to start. I’ve found using some electrical tape around the areas on my lower I am working around helps prevent me from accidentally nicking it with hammers or punches. Good luck!
If u don’t like Wally try this it gives 1 extra wrench
I prefer US made tool so I bought starter punches at Amazon and regular punches at Brownells
I used a 50 duro sheet with adhesive on it from amazon (currently out of stock, but this is what i've used on all of my boards).
I cut it roughly to size for the bottom of the case and then use these punches to cut out holes for the screw standoffs, the jumper panel and the USB connector (hint: if you lay it in the bottom of the case with the adhesive side still covered and push down, you will end up with little holes punched in the covering to the adhesive that you can use as a guide for the punches).
Once it's cut properly, you take off the backing for the adhesive and carefully place it in the case. It's a delicate operation because the adhesive is pretty tough and you really don't get a second chance (using the screw standoffs as a guide is really the best way to do it).
I've done this in about 6 boards now and it's always worked out really well.
https://www.amazon.com/d/Center-Punches/Automatic-Center-Punch-Adjustable-Tension/B07BJMYRFQ
These work better because you don’t have to swing them.
For my first few lowers I used this combo of things I grabbed from amazon...
I also used a pair of pliers and masking tape.. I built 4 lowers with that setup.. the pivot pin/roll pin install tool wasn't "needed" but it did make it so I didn't have to worry about the spring/detent flying across the room.
I have since grabbed a vice block for upper and lower but I didn't need it for the lower.. Upper work you do need the vice block.. I also grabbed a much better set of punches as I bent a few of those punches from that wheeler kit on my first time trying to swap a FSB to low pro gas block.
Originally bought this starter set and this Punch Set.
Then when I decided to use a polymer lower for my AR pistol build, I ordered this combo starter and Punch kit
Here's a few really good gifts that I got recently:
Highly recommended:
Other really good ideas:
I bought one of these for wargames (and to a lesser extent euro games) and it's been perfect for rounding out the corners and getting rid of dog ears:
https://www.amazon.com/Radius-Deluxe-Corner-Rounder-Cutter/dp/B00G08PEXO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485698174&sr=8-1&keywords=2.5mm+corner+clipper
I don't remember it being that expensive (think I paid ~$40) and I would use CamelCamelCamel to keep an eye on it to drop in price, but it's been amazing.
I used it for The Colonists goods chits and they look and feel much better without the sharp edges. Not to mention any player aids all have the sharp corners that get bent anyways, clipped off. They also sell a 2mm and 3mm version. I found the 3mm to be a touch too much and the 2mm just too little of a cut, but they are both available for a little cheaper than the 2.5mm one.
Oh and one last thing, but this is basically foolproof. I know they sell a cheaper model that does that same, but I remember reading that you can fuck up your chits if you do it wrong. The version I listed is literally impossible to do it wrong.
Edit: Actual site that's a touch cheaper:
http://www.oregonlam.com/C-006-2-5MM_2-5mm_Corner_Cutter_Punch_Rounder.html
I'd recommend spending the money on a set of Grace USA punches. Bought mine from Amazon and I absolutely love them. I bought these. I also bought this set of Grace roll spring holders. Very useful for starting roll pins. A decent hammer (I have a dedicated brass mallet and a dedicated nylon mallet), and a [bench block]https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-60981-Universal-Bench-Block/dp/B0047WKF84) if you like things to be easy.
I also have a needle file set (don't remember the brand, but they were like $20 for 6-8 of them). For sanding on the internals I generally just use wet/dry sandpaper. Usually start with around 200-grit, and end with 800-grit. For polishing, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a white t-shirt. With enough time, it will give a nice mirror finish and be as smooth as ice.
Personally i would have punched the holes with something like these. I bought these to do my stitching and they work wonderfully. I then would just miss the second layer with 1 or 2 stiches and continue past the corner and start into it again.
Here is a quick bracelet i did with them
That was my first time stitching ever.
A spring loaded center punch works very well. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch/dp/B0037UUO60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404833845&sr=8-1&keywords=spring+loaded+punch
The key to breaking tempered safety glass is to apply the force over a small area.
get yourself a leather punch. it'll make your life much easier.
When I was an EMT we used these spring-loaded window punches: https://www.amazon.com/Police-EMS-Emergency-Window-Punch/dp/B001W8A1HQ . They're not great, though -- I prefer those pointy hammer-like things meant for breaking windows.
Then prebuilt might be best unless you know someone or you have a gunsmith that doesn’t charge something crazy.
At any rate, even with your budget you could just invest in the tools if you plan any future builds.
If piecing something out, most manufacturers include a barrel nut wrench which can be adapted to a 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar.
So you would just be in need of a vise and block. I got mine at harbor freight. Was 24$ something after a coupon. And I scooped a sweet vise pin block for 20$ at a gun show. I’ve built well over 30 guns on it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NO-M-A-R-Universal-Upper-Vise-Block-USA-Armorers-Gunsmith-bench-block-tool/123866382627?epid=1417692853&hash=item1cd7030123:g:2SYAAOSwT6pV3SD5
Pin vise I use is similar to this. Mine works on both ar15 and Ar10.
Vise from harbor freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-swivel-vise-with-anvil-61329.html
Amazon has a set of punches which will cover all bases for $10.
https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Gunsmithing/dp/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=roll+punch+set&qid=1565363401&s=gateway&sprefix=roll+pun&sr=8-9
I use this one. Has yet to fail me.
Only other thing you’d need is a castle nut wrench. NC Star makes one for about 10$. Works great. Available at academy or on eBay
https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/tapco-intrafuse®-ar-stock-wrench
Or you could just get one of these They will out last you I promise.
Get something like this
Try buying a leather punch. Really cheap and will solve your problem.
eyyyyyy
These will break about every kind of non-reinforced glass there is, no swinging, just put the tip on the glass and push. These things are too cheap not to be in the console of every vehicle I have. Get a little seatbelt/strap cutter and you've provided two vital tools for emergency egress for <$20.
I have used Allen wrenches and small drill bits that I was willing to sacrifice previously. That being said...
https://www.amazon.com/America-Hollow-Steel-Starter-Punch/dp/B01BL4TW3Y/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469788510&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=roll+pin+punch
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Roll-Pin-Punch/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469788510&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=roll+pin+punch
Punch sets can be had relatively cheaply. I bought the wheeler, though the hollow type might be better for your application.
Would a simple set like this suffice for the extractor? https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-226-Piece-Punch-Kit/dp/B000NIBFSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468090941&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Punch+set
Oh sweet. That's a tool I'd not heard of in that way (I thought of a different kind of chisel). Are these the ones?
I have one of these, it looks a lot like this with a handle and a punch plate. (I think this one is missing some punches.) Here's mine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7WS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_msGZAbDJPMC2K
I use the Wheeler Set. I would also suggest the Starter Punch from CGW for the more stubborn pins. If you don't have a bench block I would get one of those too. A universal bench block will work fine but I would get the CZ Bench Block to make things a bit easier.
For polishing, some 600 grit, 1000 grit and 2000 grit sandpaper and some diamond stones from brownells would work just fine. Just follow the guides carefully and don't take too much metal off of the crucial areas.
Automatic Center Punch - 5 inch Brass Spring Loaded Center Hole Punch with Adjusta... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJMYRFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_8JwIDbWYQXA9E
You don't even need something that beefy to break car windows. They make keychain sized car rescue tools and a center punch will also do the job.
Just speaking as someone who has a legitimate use for them, anyway.
just get an automatic center punch
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6580-Automatic-Center-Punch/dp/B0037UUO60
I used something like this for the hammer - plastic end worked great. You can get something like this if you prefer metal.
These are the punches I used, they're great. Definitely recommend something like these.
I don't get why the other guy delete his post. I basically lost my shopping list. So I guess I'll ask you, any torque wrench I need? Also would roll pin set like https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Gunsmithing/dp/B003L7HOMG those be all I need?
Edit: Those roll pins seem bad quality. Could you direct me to some better ones?
http://www.amazon.com/SE-Center-Punch-Automatic-Brass/dp/B003DW8OCI
$6.30 on amazon. Place the punch about 1/2mm from the edge of the faceplate and punch at the stake position on the castle nut. Actuate punch 5-6 times.
Done.
These things are dope, for 30 you can get a whole tool kit with ohm reader and 5 of these off amazon. The screw driver sucks but the rest of the stuff is great.
http://www.amazon.com/Liekkas-Scimitar-Stainless-Pen-shaped-Screwdriver/dp/B013EWKDVG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459322858&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Coil+tools
That's a pretty sweet set up to start off with! Since most of your questions are answered, might I suggest learning to build your own coils, rather than buying replaceables. In the short term it will be a bit pricey to begin with if you purchase a complete set, though many items can be replaced with simple home tools, like nail clippers and tweezers. In the long run you gain a large ammount more control, customizable experience, and save some good money.
Bare essentials you're looking to buy: A new tank, wire, a coil-jig (easy mode) or screw drivers, a large supply of cotton.
or you could pick up a kit
EDIT: Just do the math, if you change coils once a week, how long could it take for this set of things to pay for itself. Then think about how some people feel it makes the experience better.
got this kit on PSA on sale a while back, VERY useful. I think all the bits separate would run you ~125 so def a good buy. Also these are good.
Punch set - http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Select-89032-Short-3-Piece/dp/B0060H8O0K
Roll Pin STarter Set - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191RFK4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Castle nut Wrench - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008H7PSUA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Vice Block - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PHEIW18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Pieces/dp/B003L7HOMG
The chassis is important for shielding. I highly recommend BUD for these. They are inexpensive and you can work the soft aluminum chassis with hand tools and a punch kit like this. Depending on how much time you want to spend, you can make very attractive-looking devices with these.
Grounding is important in building a preamp or any kind of electronics handling low-level signals. The usual way is to have one chassis ground point as close as possible to the input connectors.
Great! By the way, one of these may help with your strap. Just use a small enough punch that it doesn't rip into the next hole.
I'll try to get some more pics up later when I get home from work. I had a friend machine it but aluminum is easy enough to drill that you could do it with a drill press. I wouldn't try a cordless drill with that diameter though. Another option is using a [knockout tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Central-91201-Manual-Knockout-Punch/dp/B0012F8GCQ), and then you could use just about any metal box you can get your hands on.
You can buy these things called hole punches for getting started with a pilot hole exactly where you want it, then you want to use a step drill bit to the appropriate size. Make sure the bits are rated for the material you're working on, likely steel.
$12 on Amazon, decent reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cGCBDbS9GWZJE
Wheeler stuff is okay for one or two builds, but if you plan on tools lasting I would buy them separately. I bought wheeler initially and now have 8 ar's and have re-purchased all tools because the wheeler stuff doesn't last. I like the tapco intrafuse wrench because it has the necessary bottle opener, roll pin punches, plastic/metal hammer, allen keys, PRI upper block, pro mag lower block and if you have a free float handguard I use this spanner.
Edit: On my armalite ar-10t, the FF handguard requires a strap wrench so keep that in mind if you plan to deal with those.
Check your local sporting goods store or a smaller hardware store, like Harbor Freight. I know my local Academy sports sells some beginner's gunsmithing tool sets. I bought a Wheeler set (similar to this one), either from PSA or Amazon. comes with several punches, including brass ones, and a little brass/nylon hammer.
this is a punch starter kit. I don't believe these are meant to punch out pins. You may be thinking of a punch set such as this Stanley set for $10 + free ship. I also just ordered this set.
You need this...
https://www.amazon.com/Revolving-including-Screwdriver-Grinding-Saddle/dp/B06XRDBGY6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=make+holes+in+belt&qid=1571149201&sr=8-3
Thanks for the interest. I used 2-3oz economy leather from Tandy Leather. Here's the list of tools I used:
Finished with:
Hope this helps
help
Having recently gone through AVET and experimenting with various window breaking methods, I can tell you that the dedicated window breakers such as this or window punches work much much better than a striking tip on any multitool. The striking tips tend to cause over penetration (tool going into passenger compartment) as they require more force to do the same thing. Buy a good knife and a good punch and you can punch the window then cut the seat belt with the knife.
That's my two cents.
I use this
It works well, although the ohm meter could be a little more accurate.
you want something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Stainless-Steel-Chisel-Leather/dp/B00CBRMRNI/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451984817&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=leather+tools
I just found a random one on amazon. You can get them from china for cheaper but will have to wait quite a while for delivery. That will punch the holes very nicely and the needle should go though without too much effort. It's best to have one with 2 prongs as well to go around corners. Tools are expensive but it really shows in the project. Take your time with the stitching. It's the greatest single way to improve the finished project for people getting into leather work IMO. In my experience there isn't a great way to finish the inside of leather. Most people use pigskin as a liner as far as I know. It is very thin. Either that or design the piece so that no part of the inside is visible. If you haven't checked out this guys youtube demos do it NOW. They are amazing and I use them all the time. Really nice work and great quality of videos too.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLkCG-505-1t0rYlgBTSnpQ
I use this.
Or get yourself one of those belt hole punchers
You can also do it yourself.
Full kit is about $150 and if you take it to a gunsmith they'll probably charge you about a hundred bucks.
You can save money if you do the work yourself. Buy an [Apex Armorer's Block] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K5ULZ9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LcuRzb3Y9Z9K6) and a [punch kit] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XduRzbYY6Z749), then YouTube.
loctite blue and aeroshell 33ms for the barrel install, also great for installing a freefloat handguard and scope mounts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ive found luck with this punch set, although the 3/32 did bend a smidge when I was pounding the hell out of it when pinning my gas block. also a rollpin starter punch set is a nice addition.
https://www.amazon.com/Fixxxer-Hollow-Stainless-Steel-Starter/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480117372&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=starter+punch+set
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012TKY0VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Leather-Hole-Punch-Tool/dp/B0002T87FE
I got one of these. You can pick the size of your hole.
I would recommend not only the roll pin punches, but also the Hollow End Starter Punch Set.
and
a Utility Knife to get the pivot pin detent in.
Roll pins are the worst, but a punch set with hollow ends like this one make them easier to deal with.
Adding onto what others have said. (Just a disclaimer I've only built 5 ARs so far so I dont know if some of the cheapo stuff is as durable as the fancy stuff that others are recommending.)
I really like this armourer's wrench since the 1/2" drive is so close to the castle and barrel nut adapter. Makes getting the correct torque easier IMO. Usually you only need the castle nut and flash hider adapters for AR builds since most aftermarket handgaurds come with proprietary barrel nut wrenches.
A decent set of roll pin punches will help you install both the upper and lower. I like this cause it also comes with a nylon (i think its nylon) end to keep from messing up your upper/lower finish.
Also, this is worth its weight in gold. It helps you install things like the roll pin that goes in the gas tube, bolt catch, trigger gaurd, and forward assist without the need of those fancy $50 tools.
And lastly I would definitely get a magpul Bev block and a bench vise. I got a cheapo one from amazon and its worked fine.
Anyone have a hole punch recommendation?
I started with a rotary punch that I bought when I made my wife a belt from a belt blank.
I recently bought a double shoulder on 8 oz veg tan for making more belts. I bought this kit for the holes:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KE17JO/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These things are awful. I'm pounding the shit out of them and taking forever to punch each hole. Looking for recommendations for a kit that will work better.
I used these long roll pin punches:
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this bench block so I had room to punch the pins the whole way.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047WKF84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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and this is the hammer I used (kinda can see it in the picture)
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Z7GGKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I say you'll probably need them.
Look here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421281670&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421281670&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Thanks for the link, I ordered them, might as well. Thanks!
I have a 2mm and 2.5mm version of these punch cutters:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G08PEXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They are the best tool I've used for clipping. I'm actually going to sell these as well if you are interested. ;-)
I got this set on Amazon about a year ago. Has been really solid for me. No issues. By GRIP company.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L7HOMG
No problem, here is the link to the exact ones we use on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBRMRNI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 - they are cheap too.
Thanks for responding!
I can post pictures when I am home, but basically they kinda overlap and sometimes they go up, sometimes down, it's not neat. The front looks uniform though.
I am using flat chisel hole punches, which I am sure amounts to heresy. These guys: http://amzn.com/B00CBRMRNI
I used a stitching awl on a trial piece which was even worse. But until I can tweak my budget to work in diamond punches or better awls, those are all I have to work with. So it is quite possible that it's just an artifact of the tools I'm using and not my technique (for instance in cross stitching, how they say the crosses should all be in the same direction, otherwise the piece will look unfinished).
A pair of channel locks?
Get a punch set and a roll pin start set.
Use the right tools for the job.