Best hardware washers according to redditors

you can find these amazon or ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2mmx4mmx0-5mm-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486171775&sr=1-1&keywords=insulation+washer+0.5mm

Any kind of foam cut cut around the mounts/usb in the bottom of the case would help with that. I've heard sorbothane is really good but it's a bit pricey. Another popular solution that isn't foam is the shelf liner stuff usually used for kitchens.

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-1985-PTFE-coated-washers-5x8x0-5mm/dp/B0006O5HJE please buy them!

You're welcome! If brick and mortar stores don't have any, I have used these uxcell Nylon Flat Washers for M5 Screw Bolt 10mm OD 1mm Thick Clear 100PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NS83JCR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jNw3DbP2D39ZA

It's a push nut. Cheap to make and quick to assemble. The ones off-the-shelf seem to be mostly hexagonal, so take care when bending the flanges back to pull it off. It's usually possible to remove and reuse it at least once but work hardening will eventually break one of the tabs.

I recommend Sorbothane (amazon link). It does a really good job at absorbing sound, and will make a world of difference in a aluminum tada case.

It goes inside/in the bottom of the case. It's sandwiched in between the case and pcb. Link here- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084EXBFA/

I've been meaning to shoot a typing video so people can hear the difference. I have it installed in the exact same case you used for your build and it sounds 100X better.

I used this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084EXBFA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I pasted all of it to the case, then used an exacto knife to make it fit well.

I use the washers from the link below. If you want to pay 3 or 4 bucks more and get prime shipping click the other listings and select the one with prime. Not sure if they are the best buy they seemed to work fine for me.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARADX88/

bolts and washers can be had at any hardware store...

https://www.amazon.com/iExcell-Stainless-Internal-Socket-Screws/dp/B07FQLQCBH/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=6mm+bolt&qid=1565842548&s=gateway&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Spring-Washers-Finish-100Sets/dp/B07RY5LZV3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=6mm+bolt+lock+washer&qid=1565842634&s=gateway&sr=8-3

literally nothing special is needed

These plugs:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153104817175

These switches:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07NTQJ89N?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

These gaskets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MHS5BK9?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Get a hack saw and cut the 'mushroom top' off the plug. Shove the toggle switch into the resulting pipe (I use the clean end...the slightly jagged cut end will go inside the case). Put two of the gaskets on the pipe. Slide them flush with the toggle button. Insert into the 24mm hole and tighten down with the nut. The gaskets should be on the OUTSIDE of the case and will deform a bit.

You could also use two of the nuts on the same pipe...one inside the case...one outside...if you prefer that look.

Note that for wiring the toggle switches have larger spade connectors than a Sanwa button. I had the proper connectors lying around from my Happ MAME cabinet. You may prefer to solder.

thats funny, that was my exact thought. I'm planning to do just that wit these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019O43DVA/?coliid=I1NT6XKGB3YYWK&colid=2JN7WSR0AQMMC&psc=1 or maybe these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KCZ1VJL/?coliid=I3FNRESVI2YNQB&colid=4GNVW0B9GAVI&th=1

If I could expand on this. Maybe use this type of washer, works better than a standard washer especially if you use something like a drywall or wood screw. Looks better at least, but either will work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSQ9KFP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.a6QCbZHZR4AW

I've had issues like that in the past. I used rubber washers like these. Worked great for me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1kZOzbQM0QCEJ

I used these and they're the perfect size for the screws in the screw in stabilizers. They're for motherboards so this is their intended purpose.

Basic components of a pressurized CO2 system:

• Regulator -controls flow of CO2 gas into your aquarium
  
  
• CO2 tank - consistent, pressurized source of CO2
  
  
• Diffuser - breaks down CO2 gas into teeny tiny bubbles for plants to use
  
  Regulators: there are many brands and components to a regulator. I recommend a regulator with a solenoid, and a bubble counter. The solenoid allows you easily control your CO2 using an inexpensive timer, or an expensive pH controller. A bubble counter is a simple way to guess how much CO2 gas is in your aquarium. You may want to shoot for 3-4 bubbles per second depending on lighting and plants. I personally recommend the Milwaukee regulator and have used one reliably for years.
  
  CO2 tank: A 10 lb tank might last you 3-4 months before needing refilled. You can get a 20lb but they are huge and ridiculously heavy. On my 29gal, a 10lb tank lasts 6 months. Tanks ship empty and you have to find a local source to fill it with CO2. Try welding supply or home brew beer supply. You will need disposable seals too.
  
  Diffuser: This is where you have a lot of options. Ceramic diffusers are effective on small-medium tanks. CO2 reactors and DYI options using your filtration system are effective on a large size tank. I can't give any recommendations on these 2 options, sorry, hopefully someone will chime in.
  
  Other important equipment includes CO2-safe tubing, a drop checker, maybe a brass check valve if needed, and the aforementioned timer. Hit me up if you would like recommendations for these items.
  

Huey from Top Clack has used this and did a typing video. It cut down the sound quite dramatically.

Can't speak for the Heavy-6 but I used a single layer , 0.125" thick, 4.5" x 12" sheet on my norbaforce.

I would recommend starting with a fairly thin sheet like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019GBG97Q

And trimming to the correct size. You can always add another layer on top if needed.

I really do hope someone makes new/updated sliders and housings - it would be a game changer!

No problem at all - we are all here to help out and tweak the shit out of our boards :-) These are also available on Amazon.com but I bought one of these and two of these. I actually like the thicker one better and its more useful considering the size and length. If you do end up getting them, feel free to make a post or send me an update as I'd like someone else's take on Sorbothane!

I've looked into the same thing about a year ago and came to the conclusion that sorbethane was really good for this. Something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019GBG97Q/ref=asc_df_B019GBG97Q5260449/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B019GBG97Q&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198070661729&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13695881069556684324&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028725&hvtargid=pla-320231501911

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Milwaukee regulator

disposable seals

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I got a 1/10" thickness sheet from Amazon. I placed it over the opened case from the bottom, outlined the cut marks with a utility knife and cut the sheet with scissors (with the backing on to make it easier). Isolate It!: Sorbothane Acoustic & Vibration Damping Film 40 Duro (0.10 x 6 x 12in) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B019GB21MS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bmSBCbBZK2R34

My suggestion:

This + rubber cement + your tokens

They turn out great. I have a whole box of these things. Your local hardware store carries the washers too. Also, 2" washers work just as well for large tokens. I love making these, and my players love playing with them.

> I have these items, kraken x72,

The Kraken x72 should come with 12 6-32x30mm screws, 12 6-32x5mm screws, and 24 washers. As long as you bought it new you shouldn't need to buy anything else.

If you ever need more hardware, pretty much all standard AIOs and all standard fans will use the same stuff:6-32 30mm screws and no.6 washers.

Questions about liner material and lube...

For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.

For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.

Shelf liner gets recommended a lot

Sorbothane is the good stuff though: https://www.amazon.com/Isolate-Sorbothane-Acoustic-Vibration-Damping/dp/B0084EXBFA/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1481766863&sr=1-12&keywords=sorbothane+sheet

One inch washers + sticker paper + printer = good looking, cheap, solid, & reusable tokens.

Here is the mobile version of your link

lol. I agree with the urgency. it's imo an unbearable issue for edc!
the feedback I've gotten has been positive from folks who have bought it: link

if you want a slightly cheaper alternative others have just glued some washers onto the tail

Well cool man, thanks for the help. I ended up going with these : http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042UBWCE/ref=mp_s_a_4?pi=75x62&qid=1345744765&sr=8-4

You could try placing sorbothane pads under the feet to isolate vibration between the TT and the cabinet. You could also buy bigger pads with a higher durometer rating to go under the cabinet itself.

Oh I was thinking maybe there were washers like this but suited for buttons. Someone on Facebook recommended this so I'm going to see if those will work

Amazon often has such things:

http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-3294-Stainless-Phillips/dp/B00HYM0YM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1449498174&sr=8-6&keywords=6-32+1-1%2F4

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Washer-Black-Finish-B18-22-1/dp/B009OJHM22/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449498264&sr=8-2&keywords=%236+washer

I wouldn't call it hard, tedious for sure. There are something like 20+ screws and mounting points that need to be replaced. If you're comfortable building a PC and applying thermal compounds then you'll be fine here. Just plan on a couple hours of work.

I would recommend a screwdriver kit similar to this. It'll pay dividends well beyond just this install.

Also, might want some nylon washers to raise the shroud away from the hybrid fan. Without these the fan can make contact against the shroud if you run it at high speeds. I have not really had this problem as my temps never get above 45 to 50 degrees at load, but be aware it can happen and its annoying.

I would suggest if you use screw in stabs to use a set of paper washers. I used the following with my build. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ARADX88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This stop's them from shorting out the board. Its not always a issue but having to desolder ever switch makes 7 bucks worth the piece of mind.

oops they're not plastic

I think you mean motherboard standoff. Did you forgot to use a paper [red] washer between the screw and motherboard?

Years ago I would cut out my own from expired credit cards

You can probaly get these at most hardware stores.

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos%C2%AE-Pieces-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers/dp/B00H96MWHC

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2mmx4mmx0-5mm-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486171775&sr=1-1&keywords=insulation+washer+0.5mm

If they sell out before you order them, I could send you some of mine.

Looks like I was thankfully wrong. Last line in the product description says it can just cause discoloration.

"Caution: This product contains plasticizer which may cause minor discoloration to wood, plastic, composite and other materials following prolonged contact."