(Part 2) Best headphone accessories according to redditors
We found 10,868 Reddit comments discussing the best headphone accessories. We ranked the 2,113 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![Spigen RA100 Designed for AirPods Strap for Apple Airpods 1 & 2 [NOT Compatible with Airpods Pro] - White](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/313lr5RIZ7L.jpg)
![AmazonBasics Digital Optical Audio Toslink Cable, 6 Foot [Amazon Frustration-Free Packaging]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/313GLjql0YL.jpg)
For those wondering: yes, this is real. https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-AirPods-PENDING-Connector-Airpods/dp/B01LVZ4SXN (gotta love the "PATENT PENDING" bit)
Sadly... Yes : https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/000EM20861-Airpods-Sangle/dp/B01LVZ4SXN/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=69508508107&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6KrtBRDLARIsAKzvQIFLpjSqB1Qjb-56XwN4yDou8vOTaNI4Z8LDAen33Srue4gk9tDhbZgaAqH7EALw_wcB&hvadid=338563508089&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9000618&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16666021784292251975&hvtargid=kwd-298798355279&hydadcr=6216_10781601&keywords=airpods+strap&qid=1571542413&sr=8-1
When enough people drop them by accident and lose them, have them trampled to bits in a crowd, or both.
But oh, wait, there's already a solution for that... :D
real
You know you can condense a link as such, right?
https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-AirPods-PENDING-Connector-Airpods/dp/B01LVZ4SXN
The reviews on amazon are amazing
https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-AirPods-Pending-Connector-Airpods/dp/B01LVZ4SXN
Parts List & More
Type|Item
:--|:--
Case|IN WIN 101 Mid Tower High Air Flow Gaming Case w/ Tempered Glass Full Size Window (White)
CPU|Intel® Core™ Processor i7-7700K 4.20GHZ 8MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1151 (Kaby Lake)
Case Fan|3x 120mm AZZA Hurricane RGB Fans
CPU Cooler|Thermaltake Floe Riing RGB 240mm Premium Edition Liquid CPU Cooling System w/ Copper Cold Plate (2 x Standard 120MM Fans)
SSD|240GB WD Green Series SATA-III 6 SSD
HDD|Seagate 3TB 64MB Cache 7200RPM SATA III 6.0Gb/s
RAM|XPG Z1 Gaming Series 16GB DDR4-3000 Dual Channel DDR4 Kit, CL16 (2x 8GB), White
Motherboard|ASUS ROG Strix Z270E Gaming ATX w/ RGB, USB 3.1, 3 PCIe x16, 4 PCIe x1, 6 SATA3, 2 M.2 SATA/PCIe
OS|Windows 10 Home (64-bit Edition)
Power Supply|600 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready
Video Card|GeForce® GTX 1060 3GB GDDR5
Monitor|Dell S2415h 24-Inch x 3
Monitor Stand|VIVO Single Stand & VIVO Dual Stand
Headset|Steelseries Arctis 7
Headset Stand|Avantree Universal Aluminum Desk Headphone Stand Hanger with Cable Holder
Keyboard|Logitech K780 Multi-Device Wireless Keyboard
Mouse|Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse (White)
Webcam|Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920
Plants|Artificial Plants, Amyhomie Set of 4 Mini Fake Succulent Plants
Desk|98x1 1/8" EKBACKEN Kitchen Counter Top resting on two White ALEX Drawers. There's also two OLOV White Adjustable Legs underneath for support.
Laptop|Apple 13" MacBook Air 256GB SSD 2015 Model
Laptop Stand|Vertical Laptop Stand Holder by MOTONG
Laptop Skin|Solid State White Skin by DecalGirl
Mini Fridge|Danby DAR017A3WDB Contemporary Classic Compact All Refrigerator, White
Lamp|Studio Designs 12024 Swing Arm Lamp, 13-watt, White
Lamp Bulb|TP-Link Multicolour Smart LED Bulb
Wallpaper|Nathan Nyx on ArtStation
Wall Scrolls|Tokyo Ghoul, No Game No Life, Attack On Titan, Seven Deadly Sins
Console|Nintendo Switch - Gray Joy-Con
Console Skin|Solid State White by DecalGirl
Controller|Nintendo Switch Pro Controller
Cable Management|Reusable Velcro Cable Ties, 2 x White Cable Raceway Channels, and 2 x White Cable Box
USB Charger|RAVPower 60W 12 A 6-Port USB Charger
Router|Linksys Velop Tri-band Whole Home WiFi Mesh System 2-Pack
Trash Bin|FILUR (White)
I know you’re being sarcastic but that’s really a thing on Amazon.
Bose QuietComfort 25 - $99 (Lightning Deal)
Surface Headphones - $189
AKG Q701 - $159
Audio-Technica ATH-M20x - $34.50 (Today Only)Audio-Technica ATH-M30x - $51.75 (Today Only)Audio-Technica ATHM40x - $74.25 (Today Only)Audio-Technica ATH-M50xBB Limited Edition - $99 (Today Only)Audio-Technica ATH-M50xBT - $129 (Today Only)Fostex TX1 - $35
AKG K511 - $39 (Today Only)Sennheiser HD599SE (US) - $99Sennheiser HD4.50SE (US) - $99Sennheiser Momentum Free Special Edition - $149
HIDIZS Portable Headphone Amplifier USB Type C DAC - $33
Schiit Modi Multibit - $233
Brainwavz Headphone Desk Hanger - $9I bought this one on Amazon for $13 Here
Careful with that one-piece 6.3mm > 3.5mm connector, the weight of the heavy 6.3mm jack is known to cause stress and break off at the 3.5mm. I'd recommend something like this
Amazon reviews are amazing
One of the first things made for the air pods was, you guessed it, straps.
Edit for More:
I could go on and on. And I did.
stock up on canned/dehydrated/dry food (cereal/rice/ramen/peanutbutter/raisins/etc) -- don't neglect canned veggies you'd be amazed how quickly you'll start craving them -- stock up on R E A L money, stock up on guns and especially ammo (barter purposes). 10-20 gallons of water in GOOD long-term water storage containers is also a great idea. a lightweight portable water filter straw like this could also prove invaluable, especially if you have to hit the woods. make sure you have some fuel for cooking those noodies -- you can get a dirt-cheap backpacking stove for five bux on amazon, fresh out of chinese slave hands, then buy 4-5 canisters of this stuff (will run you about 5-6 bucks per can at shart-your-pants-mart). will last a single person months if you're only cooking dinner. might consider storing some gasoline in case you need to gtfo quick and the looters already hit quik-trip, might consider burying a portion of your R E A L money. hoarding a bit of emergency CASH is also a must; it ain't gonna become completely worthless in an hour and in non-financial collapse scenarios you'll need it.
a tent is GREAT to have, the woods will be safer than the city in a true just-f-my-country-up-fam situation. make sure you got flashlights, extra batteries, SOME form of protection if for whatever reason you can't get guns&ammo -- pepper spray, tazers, baseball bats, blahblah. if you're blind make sure you have an extra pair of glasses that you can see somewhat-clearly out of, cause if your original pair gets busted you are completely and utterly BONED. make sure you have warm clothing, winter clothing, even if you're in florida; if you gotta bail you don't know where you'll have to bail to.
oh yeah, and TP. it's always handy.
by the way, normies will say this is all super-paranoid stuff and not worth the hassle, but none of this stuff takes up much room, it's easy to get, and it will be utterly priceless if things go south, even if just locally, as you're experiencing now. the people who don't prepare at all will be powerless in such a situation, and honestly, if they're adults, probably shouldn't be pitied. one area the mormons have it right actually; they prepare and don't get complacent.
to quote the fake mad-eye moody, "constant vigilance"
I'm not even anti-Mac. At least not to the point that I hate it on general principle. I asked a question about a design "feature" I hadn't realized they would try to do. But let's look at the Magic Mouse 2 for a moment, shall we?
The keyboard and the touchpad can both charge during use. Which means when the battery inevitably dies, they can be used as wired devices. This is a $100 mouse that's just scotch tape and bailing wire inside and when the battery goes, that's it.
Dozens of people on support forums and in reviews are saying that the battery is dying faster, and taking longer to charge, than Apple's numbers. One guy needed 10 minutes to get 7% charge, which lasted less than an hour.
This Apple fan at Gizmodo pointed out the flaws of trying to use one on a work computer. He'd forgotten to charge it for a while, and had to keep recharging it through the day, because the whole "two minutes" thing wasn't working out for him.
And he forgot because it's not a problem with just about any other mouse in existence, and to check the charge you have to go into your computer settings. By the time you get the pop-up you're going to be without your mouse for at least a little while.
And he's not the only Apple fan who isn't thrilled about the new mouse.
On a PC, a hundred bucks buys a lot of mouse. And you can use it to just point at things and click buttons. You don't have to massage it and tickle it and learn sign language.
If you like Apple stuff, that's fine. It's your money. But when someone says "that's kind of a stupid idea" you don't need to get all defensive. Making wireless headphones that you have to connect wires to so you don't lose them is a stupid idea. Getting rid of the 3.5mm audio jack was a cynical move motivated by greed.
And even if they give you the lightning to USB adapter with the mouse, why does it need a USB to Lightning adapter at all? Apple doesn't care about legacy support.
Could it be because it's junk and they can sell $20 replacements every few months?
This is an Apple product meant to work seamlessly with other Apple products. They're making users jump through hoops almost like the design department has a bet going on to see who can come up with the most ridiculous requirements they can put users through.
I honestly think they're doing it because at this point they literally have more money than they can figure out how to spend. And they'd like to stop making it, or at least generate some losses to offset the tax burden that bringing it home out cost.
And it just keeps failing. People just keep buying it. "It's intentional!" some say. Like that makes it better? It's a bad idea. It really is just that simple.
Ever read The Princess Bride? Apple is Yeste. Domingo died, Inigo has the last great weapon that will ever come from that shop, and the customers don't care. So they make things gaudier and less useful and double and redouble the prices.
It’s actually the base of a headphone stand. It’s soft rubber so I don’t have to worry about my CIEMs getting scratched or damaged.
This one for anyone interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A09KCJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0td2DbMHJWPG5
Pricey, but I put one of these on some Monoprice cans(before I became an audio snob and got some sennheisers and audio-technicas) I had a few years ago:
http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415810678&sr=8-2&keywords=headphone+pad
Made them 10x more comfortable. My girlfriend still uses the headphones, even though she thinks she looks "nerdy" with them on.
I switched out the stock ear pads immediately with Brainwavz ear pads because the drivers would touch my ears and it would be very uncomfortable after 30 or so minutes (big head/ears). If anyone were to get these headphones, I'd recommend buying them. They sit on my head for 3+ hours at a time and I have no complaints, super comfy ear pads
Heres a picture of them :D
This may seem minor, but I just added a Headphone Hanger to my desk and I love it.
Apple doesn't make it, but here you go
If you have a crock pot you can buy a digital thermostat controller to use with it and turn it into a sous vide machine. Basically you fill up the crock pot with water, the device has a little probe you put in the water, and you plug the crock pot into this device, and the device into the wall. You set the temperature and it just switches the crock pot on and off based on the temperature you set. Since crock pots heat up from all directions the temperature stays pretty consistent throughout.
I also have used Ziploc vacuum pump bags with pretty good success. They do leak out some air over the long-term so they don't work as well for freezing things for a long time (still works pretty good though) but they work perfectly fine for sous vide in my experience. Less than $100 investment for the temperature controller, the hand pump and a bunch of extra bags.
If you don't mind spending more money on different parts for these headphones, these earpad and headband replacements are fantastic.
You won't regret it! Its amazing! The auto pairing thing is life changing! Also get some Airpods earclips to secure them to your ear while running or exercising.
EarBuddyz 2.0 Apple Airpods and EarPods Covers and Hooks Attachment for iPhone Earphones Headphones Earbuds - Clear (2 Pairs)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j9zJAbJPFR76F
Another accessory i bought: (see various colors):
PodSkinz AirPods Case Protective Silicone Cover and Skin for Apple Airpods Charging Case (Diamond Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XG6P444/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T-zJAbWXAWWCJ
I really like my AirPods, but I hate the one size fits all.
My ears are a bit deformed. My left earhole is smaller than my right. Over time it naturally pushes all earphones out. My husband bought me a pair of AirPods as a gift. I was excited and bit worried. I didn't want to lose them so I did some research. Turns out a pair of silicone ear hooks was all I needed. Been running miles with them and have never had them fall.
EarBuddyz 2.0 Ear Hooks and Covers Accessories Compatible with Apple AirPods or EarPods Headphones/ Earphones/ Earbuds (3 Pairs) (Clear) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/
These things are amazing. Won't block out the ambient sound though.
Yeah, the output is quite weak. I was hoping it would be louder compared to the Wii U and 3DS, but that's not the case. Though third-party games seem to have a bit more volume (compare The Binding of Isaac to Breath of the Wild, for instance), I find that I still have to rely on my headphone amp if I want full, immersive sound from headphones with my Switch. This is a good option: https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-A1-Silver-Portable-Headphone/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494660494&sr=8-2&keywords=fio+headphone+amp
Anyone got any interesting setups/tv's? Idk why i'm writing this but here are the things I bring to tourneys.
Album link
My Tv Is by far the most eye catching thing. I bought 350 Fortune cookies and have been just taping them on there whenever I finish one. I am pretty much out of them so I have quite a bit all over the TV. The air fresheners were to bring some nice smells to any tournament I went to.
Standard Gamecube: 1.02 melee with newest 20xx TE and vanilla melee memory cards. This is the video cable IOnebring. It has s video + regular composite so I don't have to bring a powered splitter. Explaining more below.
Recording/Streaming setup: This consists of a Webcam which also records player/crowd audio (also a 16 ft extension). An Elgato with 16ft extension. Then I have 2 non-powered composite splitters. I plug in the composite video from the game cube directly into my TV and the S video into the elgato. The result isn't actually too bad (if someone knows how to deinterlace for better video hmu).
The last thing is My Controller: Someone on etsy painted it for me right before big house and so far it's a great purchase. It is of a Palestinian flag and has my tag on it. it doesn't feel any different from any other game cube controller which is great.
Edit: forgot about my headphone setup. I have sennheiser Momentums I bring with my headphone amp and plug that into the tv's audio with one of These. This has a pass through meaning other people can listen through the TV and I can adjust the volume with my amp. I also bring another headphone splitter so people can listen with their headphones.
I found this on Amazon. It's similar enough.
Someone is though...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LVZ4SXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VQ5QDbTN8AN53
No, but a $4 compact camping stove off amazon and a $5 canister from the store sure is.
Seriously though...these things are invaluable for camping... last time camping I heated up some leftover Caribbean jerked pork, some soup, some coffee in the mornings... and its the size of a deck of cards pretty much, and the canisters are pretty small too.
I've got a ton of budget best bang for the buck gear, but one place you absolutely should not skimp on is socks. Buy 2-3 pair of SmartWool Expedition weight socks. It's like wearing slippers inside your boots.
Socks
Here's some more of the cheap (mostly) gear that I purchased and am still happy with. This includes some revisions I've made after a somewhat miserable trip to Yosemite. I am a freak for reading reviews and digging for the best price.
$8 Stove
$8 Mug
$16 underwear... okay, this is almost as important as socks!
$29 Solar charger, or DIY
$85 Water filter, didn't want to skimp here although water tabs are doable
$9 550 paracord
$14 multitool - use a small cheap knife to 'cut' costs
$28
titaniumAnodized Aluminum pot$9 Tarp Couldn't find the link, but it's at WalMart in their camping section, by Outdoor Products.
$9 titanium spork
$45 hammock - you can get cheaper on campmor, but this one caught my eye at REI
$16 hammock suspension - you can get cheaper by DIY
$14 Compass
Sierra Trading Post has Comfortrel longjohns for $17/top or bottom - feels cheap, but effective.
$24 15 degree mummy bag IMO the next best thing for the money is The Cat's Meow at ~$90.
$22 tent - small, decent weight, cheap, hard to find. Not sure if I trust in rain, but worked great for five days of decent weather and 30 degree nights. Dumped this for the hammock setup due to weight and size. (but it's not that heavy or big)
In addition, I'll be switching to the $45 54litre pack from Costco.
GoLite has some crazy cheap light backpacks, but they don't seem to do well for loads heavier than ~25 pounds, which you probably won't hit on a budget.
$10 tab stove - haven't used, gonna try this out soon
Wal Mart has been seriously stepping up their backpacking game in the last year or so. Take a look their. A lot of the products are decent quality at crazy good prices.
Thread
no differences in sound quality. 6,3mm jacks are used in professional settings because they are a lot sturdier than their little 3,5mm siblings.
You can only plug them into your PC if you use a 6,3mm to 3,5mm adapter.
I don't really have a recommendation, but make sure you decide on how you'll setup your audio connection. Like if you want to use speakers get a monitor with a audio out port, or you could plug them directly into the ps4 controller but I got annoyed being tethered so I ended up buying like three adapters
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/
https://www.amazon.com/30S1-01260-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/
Good advice. To add to that, if you prefer sound to subtitles, you could use headphones with a long extension cord like this or this. There are longer ones out there depending on the distance from your TV to couch, just search for "3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Female headphone extension cord". If there are two people, you can use a splitter adapter like this. You may also check Monoprice for additional options that are sometimes of the same (or higher) quality at a cheaper price than those available at big box stores or other online retailers.
idk how different this would be but I've used a dreamGear soft silicone case for both my 3dsxl and now my new 3ds xl. I have large hands and can play for extended periods of time w/o trouble.
Get the DT-770. They're like the 990 but closed and bassier, a good fit for electronic music. They're built like tanks, they don't look great (and don't need to), they isolate well, and thus they barely leak sound.
If you're using with a laptop or phone with underpowered audio out, get the 32 Ohm for $124.
Otherwise, the 80 Ohm version is $118 and also has velour pads. It also has just a bit more bass, but on worse audio sources it will be too quiet or otherwise sound a bit off.
Don't get an amp - if you would need an amp, get the 32 Ohm version. If you're dead set on getting an amp, go for a DAC/Amp, the SMSL M3 is one of the best cheaper desktop models.
Alternatively, and this will be frowned upon here, you could go for HyperX Cloud for $80. You missed the cheaper sale Friday ($65), but from personal experience of having these exact headphones without the microphone, they sound great with everything and have enough detail that they're a significant upgrade over what you have now.
There are many stands that avoid pad contact and just have a top contact area, like this one. I use a similar design.
Avantree Aluminum Metal Headphone Stand Hanger with Cable Holder, Black Desk Earphone Mount Rack for Sennheiser, Sony, Bose, Beats Gaming Headset Display, Fancy Music Studio Accessories - HS102 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A09KCJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wy-1DbAGP5RXX
The Fiio A1 Portable Amp is only $27 on amazon, and their amps are pretty solid for phones. I have the E6 and use it with my 6P and my larger headphones.
I actually have one, I don't use it. I keep my psvr in a drawer. If anyone wants this case I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping. (From Canada however)https://www.amazon.ca/Storage-Case-for-Playstation-VR/dp/B01LB4KHF6
Meh
Spigen TEKA RA100 for AirPods Strap Never Lose Your AirPods Patent Pending Air Pods Strap Wire Cable Connector for Apple Airpods - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZ4SXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b.JvCbV4Q72KD
Not an Apple product, but still very ironic.
About that...
Now I'm not sure if you are still being serious.
Headphone Stand
I use the Avantree Solid Steel Headphone Stand.
Initially the raised lips were leaving a small mark/crease on the leather/headband so I used some mounting tape + felt to 'even' the holder out. No issues now, sturdy and takes up minimal space.
Pictures
The stands are Avantree HS102s. You can order one online from their website, or alternatively:
Avantree HS102 on Amazon US
Avantree HS102 on Amazon UK
They are real but I am waiting for the next gen strap to be released.
It's rumored the updated version, coming out for Christmas, will have the capability to keep your Airpods fully charged. The strap will connect to your phone, enabling your phone to become a mobile charging device.
Spigen Airpod straps on Amazon
I'd personally recommend this stove honestly. It comes it really handy and is quick to light.
I used a penny stove for awhile, and the damned thing is a bitch to light in the cold, you know, exactly when you'd want it the most.
I have owned an msr pocket stove for a while and loved it. When it went missing I spent a season without it because I was too stubborn to buy a piece of gear I just had to find. Well next season I decided to just do a ton of research and see if there was anything that was being sold for a fraction of the price but was still popular. That's when I found this. Do yourself a favor and start skimming through the reviews. There's a lot of them. There are things about it that could be better but hey for under 6$ I have used the shit out of this thing and have been thoroughly pleased.
Leegoal Ultralight Backpacking Canister Camp Stove with Piezo Ignition 3.9oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_iRvRwb778K57W
I suggest getting a different 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter, as the one that comes with the HD599 tends to put a lot of stress on the 3.5mm jack, as you may already have noticed. Something like this adapter from Sennheiser will work great:
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y
The Grado adapter should work fine as well and is cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor/dp/B001DK1ZVO
And there are other adapters like this one for Hosa which are cheaper still:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MHE-100-5-Right-Angle-Headphone-Adaptor/dp/B000068O6B/
Or just use the shorter cable with a 3.5mm connector that comes with the HD599 if you can. Anyway, that's a great setup to get started on the hobby. Now you can feel free to never visit this sub again to save yourself some (ok, probably a lot of) money.
Don't use the included 3.5mm adapter if you can help it, it will put a ton of strain on your headphone jack. If anything, use something like this :)
This is similar to a controller, perhaps it would work?
Link to headphones.
Link to amp.
Link to hanger.
Link to pads.
Amazon!
Regular pleather: https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Earpads-Headphones/dp/B00OLKV5LI/
Angled pleather: https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Angled-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B01G567TDS
Do some research and see if people like regular or angled on the M40X!
I personally love my soft grip.
http://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I haven't had any problems with it BUT, full disclosure, you have to pull down soft material to change game cartridges and some people have experienced it wearing out due to swapping game cartridges often.
That said, I literally only play MH4U with very short bouts of MH3U and have had it 9 months and it looks and feels brand new still.
Still a great value for $20.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I love this grip, make sure you get the right one for the XL or NEW XL if you got that. Might help, more natural to a real controller.
The Amp/Dac is a actually an Audio Interface, the Focusrite Scarlet 2i2 and yes it's holding up with velcro tape so that I can still carry it around if needed.
The headphones are sitting on a Brainwavz Hengja Headphone Hanger.
This model exactly: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012VIWG28
If you're interested.
This is the stand: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/44361109/
And the hangers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012VIWG28
+1 for AirPods. I’ve owned two pairs of Jaybirds and they both broke at about 6 months. My AirPods (with the silicone hooks mentioned in comment above) have been a magical combo. The “tap to pause” is great, and I love the fact they charge in their case. Best Apple product in a while and so far (9 months) they have worked flawlessly. Here’s an amazon link for the silicon adapter I also found to be essential to keep the AirPods in my ears while running. Wish I didn’t need these... and maybe you won’t for your ears.
ear buddyz Amazon link
AirPod silicone covers. well worth it.
I bought some tips that attach to the AirPods. Here’s the link EarBuddyz 2.0 Ear Hooks and Covers Accessories Compatible with Apple AirPods 1 & AirPods 2 or EarPods Headphones/Earphones/Earbuds (3 Pairs) (Clear) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nYtSCbRPR404T
I think the issue with just recommending a single model is music listening like preference is rather personal and varies among people. Headphones have different profiles, some place emphasis on bass or highs, others are completely neutral (some people find neutral sounds off for instance due to years listening to a certain profile). You may want to have a look at r/headphones, there's handy guides in the sidebar including an interactive questionnaire that can help select suggestions.
I personally use this DAC and an
HD 598 CS. The DAC isn't strictly needed to be clear, I mainly use it to switch between set of speakers and headphones easily.
If by earphone you mean in ear buds then I can't really say I have a good suggestion, I just use a standard bluetooth pair of anker which are acceptable. I don't like having expensive earbuds, drives up cost if/when they get lost.
You can always get a portable amp to overcome it.
EDIT: One really tiny one I have found: https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-A1-Silver-Portable-Headphone/dp/B01CPUVPEM (though based on Head-Fi reviews if you are an audiophile you probably won't like it, but since you'll be using it for Switch only it honestly doesn't matter)
Disclaimer: I have never used it before, so I cannot guarantee anything.
The problem with using the videomicro with a Canon is that the microphone has no preamp of its own, and the one in your camera sucks. It's not a great equipment pairing, unfortunately.
One way to reduce the effect would be to use a battery powered headphone amplifier between the mic and the camera effectively working as a preamp. That'll let you boost the gain of the microphone signal while keeping the levels on your camera as low as possible.
I have this basic case that works great. Easy to carry and fits the shape of the headset perfectly, so it's compact as well.
If you're willing to spend more there's this better carrying case that'll hold the breakout box and more cables along with the headset. I can't give an opinion on it but judging by the reviews it's a great product.
Also I found this backpack that seems to hold everything: the headset, breakout box, cables, camera, Move controllers, and DS4. It's cheaper than the deluxe case, but don't offer the nice made-to-fit molds of the deluxe nor the shape of the first case that fits the headset. Don't seem to be any reviews for it either, just the other varieties of backpack the same company makes for other devices, although those are rated highly.
Seems like all 3 are a great choice, just depends on how much you want to keep together, how much room you'll have on your trips, and what your ideal price is. Hope this helps!
POWER A Storage Case for PSVR - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_deigybJ52H8GF
Here ya go VIZIO S4251w-B4 for $240. 5.1 sound with wireless rear speakers and sub. Now just add in an optical cable and you're done.
Listen I know soundbar are forbidden but this the OP really gonna put an AVR on the mantle...I'm really thinking not. With that budget and location being what it is I just don't think anything else is really going to work. I have no idea how this set sounds but I'm assuming since it's Vizio's premiere product it will be ok.
Exactly this. It turns the cooler on and off based on the temperature inside and the parameters you set. Johnson Controls makes a really nice digital ETC
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_yNiotb040W2XR
http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368227199&sr=8-1&keywords=ultralight+stove
New king of bang for the buck stove, and it's reliable. When do you see both those checked off for any product.
Alright, who is downvoting all of the Burn-In recommendations? I have these headphones. They truly sounded much better after leaving them on all night each night playing music (for about a week). Burn-in on these headphones is not "snake oil."
Secondly, I ran them directly from my Creative Soundblaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty soundcard and they sounded alright. However, I really believe you would appreciate the expanded soundstage and more-together (not more) low range after some amping. I bought my brother a FiiO E17(which is great for a low budget), and I liked the combo.
scrape the worn padding off and put a replacement [beyerdynamic headband pad] (http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A) over it. It may be a tight fit though because the metal internal arch of the M50 is wider than the DT770/880/990
Sennheiser makes a really nice one, which used to come in a bundle that I bought with an HD650 cable, but looks like you have to buy it separately now:
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y
Of course, there are much cheaper versions than the above, but hopefully you get the picture.
Watch Craigslist for a decent 5.1 system and a receiver.
I found a Denon AVR-1804 and a Boston Acoustic 5.1 System for 225 total on Craigslist.
the digital audio cable you are looking for is this one
does your PC have digital audio out as well? it may be worth getting a card with that because that would probably be the easiest and cheapest way to have speakers hooked up to a TV, PS3 and your PC with digital audio from PC -> receiver, PS3 -> receiver, and receiver -> TV.
Im pretty sure that some of the higher end logitech speakers have a digital out as well. these appear to though it is hard to tell
$600 The 2.1 package
$400 HK-3940 Receiver
$31.50 Wire
$5.50 Optical cable
This is a good system, you should be able to get it up north without any problems. Note that the HK3490 can usually be found for less, also.. you should be able to use any dvd player you have laying around as a source.
A potential solution is to purchase longer USB mini and TOSlink cables so that you can move the MixamPro closer to you.
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A Male to Mini B Cable
AmazonBasics Digital Optical Audio Toslink Cable
I use AmazonBasics for a lot of my cord solutions. The only caveat is that you're going to need an adapter to convert one end of the Toslink into a mini because the Mixamp PRO uses a mini if I'm correct. You could also always buy a ready made mini Toslink cable. I use Cables2Go for all of my networking needs, but haven't used any of their Toslinks. Link below.
Cables To Go Velocity Toslink-to-Optical Mini Plug Digital Cable
Edit: Downvote for a potential solution? :/
For what RedDawn couldn't answer, there is cell reception on pretty much all the trail in NJ.
I think this is the stove that is the $7 one off Amazon. I put it on here because it's actually the stove I have and has proven to be reliable.
Check gear lists to see if there's anything you think you would want listed.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U8CP88/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have had those at work for the last 2 years, I have paired mine with a http://www.amazon.com/E17-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW and they work well together.
I too bought a pair of 598s as my first pair of "good" headphones. I used them straight out of the computer for a while and it was fine.
If you want you could splurge for a Fiio E17 Alpen as an amp/DAC. It makes a bit of a difference, but the 598s fair fine without it.
(Here is a link to a good read about amps/DACs if you want to read up a bit.)
Congrats :) btw you should replace that 6.3 to 3.5 adapter exchange with something like that http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008JGWY2Y/
Edit: you will find cheaper. But so you get a picture. It causes less stress to the MacBook.
The "dongle" is a USB sound card that seems to accept a 3.5mm 4-pole style cable.
If you have a headset with two separate input (mic) and output (speaker) cables, then you need a Y-Splitter.
However, if the dongle accepts two separate cables, then just plug them in directly, or use this Y-Splitter to separate one cable into two.
They make little 3.5mm Y Splitters that y'all can use together from the same device. My wife and I do that to watch the same movie from the iPad when we travel.
Brainwavz work well with the M50x, or so I hear.
(no pun intended)
I sorta did, but then I bought the dream grip and it instantly made the biggest difference. Kinda made me wish I had bought it for my og 3ds.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=twister_B00W50P4HW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
3DS Grip
You need one of this. I love mine.
I'm /u/whitefeather14's friend. If it's solely for headphones and you're not looking to spend a lot, then I would strongly recommend something by Fiio. I have an older one, the FiiO E7. They don't sell this one anymore, but they have a newer one called the FiiO E70k. I haven't personally used it, but I can only assume it's like mine but better.
If it's a little more than you want to spend, then I'd look at the Q1. I've heard good things about these as well.
These are nice, because they double as a USB dac and a portable headphone amplifier. Which means if you're traveling or something you can plug your phone into it and still get the amplifier out of it, no need for a USB source.
If that doesn't interest you, then there's the FiiO K1, which is just a USB DAC, and does not have an analog 3.5mm input, only the micro USB.
Now, understand that any of these aren't going to be the greatest DAC ever. Sub $100 is pretty cheap for a DAC, and I'm pretty sure these are all 24-bit, with 32-bit being more or less the best you can get (There's some debate on whether or not you can hear a difference, but that's entirely a different conversation.)
If you do want something a little more pricey and nice, the Schiit Modi DAC and Magni amp are really quite nice. They also have a Amp/DAC combination for $80 which I haven't heard anything about, but Schiit is pretty good.
The one /u/whitefeather14 said is a PreSonus AudioBox USB. You probably don't want this, as it is primarily an audio interface for recording instruments and microphones, and isn't a dedicated DAC, though the DAC is pretty nice, and as a bonus has a 1/4in headphone out as well as two 1/4in outs for L/R powered speakers, such as studio monitors, if that's of any benefit for you.
As for the SMSL one you posted, I have also heard good things about that one, though it's a desktop unit and does not have an analog 3.5mm input.
Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to help.
I have never cared about having wireless earbuds. It's one more thing you have to charge (and the batteries will eventually die), the audio quality suffers because the DAC in the earbuds is typically crap, and with these new earbuds that are separate pieces it seems they would be very easy to lose. Imagine you're walking down a busy street, one of them pops out accidentally, lands in the road and immediately gets run over.
Most phones have nixed a headphone jack now, so you're honestly better off getting a decent USB DAC / headphone amp and a pair of in-ear monitors. For example:
Fiio K1 24-bit 96Khz USB DAC / Amplifier - $40
Works great, doesn't really drain your battery any more than you would listening to music normally. It's also tiny, light, and has a clip to attach to your clothing. Note that you'll need a USB-C OTG cable, which is another $5 or so.
KZ ZS10 Pro In-ear Monitors - $48.99
I have these, and they sound quite simply amazing. In-ear monitors of this quality were once very expensive, but now we can get them directly from China without a big brand name attached. They have a nice long cord that is replaceable, and they are very comfortable.
This is far less than the cost of the high end wireless earbuds...we're still under $100 total, and if you've never experienced 24/96 audio you don't know what you're missing. Tidal will stream at that quality level, but you probably only want to do that on Wifi. Alternatively, you can take FLAC files around with you on your phone, which is what I do. The whole setup is easy, lightweight, and cheaper than wireless while giving you amazing sound quality that you can never get with any wireless headphones.
I run with headphones. I have a set of Apple Airpods, but they were useless for running until I bought these little gadgets and now they stay in place no matter what. I like them for running because they're so light and unobtrusive.
I started off just plugging the cable into the headphone jack on my PC and it worked. But I got a fair bit of hiss and electronic interference so I got a DAC. An SMSL m3. Connect that to my pc via USB and just the headphones into that. Cleans everything up and sounds great.
The X2's are great headphones, really comfy and some really good low end. So I can imagine dance music sounding great on them.
This will be the best bang for your buck, dac/amp for $65 normally $189
Don't have this but fiio is good brand and this is only $28 so would be good for now just to get your headphones louder
Oh man, my heart goes out to you having to move and set everything up all over again. But that will make your cord management easier than trying to tear up your current setup I’d imagine. I recently did mine with cable zip ties and the occasional twisties from bread bags and whatnot. And used clear tape and white speaker wire for my Atmos height speakers mounted above my TV on the wall, so they almost look professionally done rather than speaker wiring draped everywhere.
I now keep my PSVR in this hard case for $20 that I think is well worth it. And then wrap the cord that goes to the box around the case itself (or detach it entirely and then store it inside the case and plug it back in when I’m ready to play more VR). Looking forward to the PSVR2 that is rumored to have wireless/ranged options. And then I have this old PS3 Move Charging Base that I tuck away behind my TV stand, so I can charge my two Moves through my big powerstrip. And I also hide my AIM controller underneath the stand, and charge it via my PS4/XB1X/home theater receiver’s USB port whenever needed. I’m looking forward to a future where everything charges and connects wirelessly!! Good luck with your move!
I just got the Power A storage case and it's perfect:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LB4KHF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure you you're getting downvoted, you're right.
Look up Airpod Strap, only results are for these Spigen brand ones, no official apple products.
Headphone: Philips SHP9500
Dac/amp: Fiio Q1 or SMSL M3
SHP9500 on Newegg for $53: https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16826138190?Keyword=Shp9500
Fiio Q1 used on Amazon for $35: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0157DKAU4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499186771&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fiio+q1&dpPl=1&dpID=41Fy1hyjySL&ref=plSrch
SMSL M3 on Amazon for $78: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019Y5TR6O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499186864&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=smsl+m3&dpPl=1&dpID=413PnsUHp%2BL&ref=plSrch
Sweet, thanks! I have this one as seen in my recent battletops post but I like the wood grain look a lot better ... especially at that price point!
Check out these ones:
I have a set of bose quiet comforts that I also thought were too quite. I'm not too knowledgeable on the whole headphone thing, but it probably has to do with th impedance being too high and the controller can't drive them adequately.
I recently bought the Audio Technica M50 X and I couldn't recommend them enough. They are much louder using the DS4 and the sound quality is fantastic.
As far as a fix for the bose headphones, maybe look into a portable amp that may boost the volume.
Fiio Amp
my Fiio "stack" is a Fiio DAP + K5
That said, the Fiio A1 surprised me, because I only knew this A1:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CPUVPEM
Alright, here are my two options:
I'd obviously recommend you spend a little more to get the Audio Technica AND the amp, but I understand if you don't want to spend that much.
I don't think you can use the E10K with a phone. It uses USB on a PC, for example, and takes the place of a sound card. (As I understand it and use it anyway).
I have one of these I that I like: FiiO A1 Well I have the older version. This one is probably better.
I also have one of these that is decent. Soundblaster E1
I want one of these. Little Bear B4 portable tube amp.
For a little more on the FiiO portable side. FiiO A5
edit: added a link
I personally hook one of these up to my setup for people to use with their headphones. It allows for people to use headphones (with a 1/4" adapter) and change the volume to what you want.
If you want something to personally use on any setup you play on, you can use this in conjunction with any portable amp, like this. This will allow you to control the volume to your liking.
I would try an amplifier...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CPUVPEM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486219978&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=headphone+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41c4csjOvBL&ref=plSrch
I wanted to buy one to drive my headphones better as well.
Right now I am using an audioquest dragonfly black dac, ath m50x headphones, and my macbook pro when I am home and a galaxy s7 and my ath m50x when I am not. I just ordered AKG Pro Audio K702 headphones so that will replace my ath m50x for home use.
What's your budget? Where do you live? What type of music do you listen to? Are you looking for headphones that can be used for gaming? Do you need a mic with the headphones? What is the music coming from? For example, if you're listening to music through your computer and your headphones are connected to the computer, you would be better off getting a DAC and amp combo (something like the Schiit Fulla/Schiit Fulla on Amazon or FiiO E10K or Audioengine D1 or AudioQuest DragonFly) and then getting better headphones. I personally have tried several different brands and Sennheiser are my favorites. I currently have Sennheiser PC 363D (on Amazon) for gaming, movies, and TV and have the Sennheiser HD 598 SE (on Amazon) for music.
I've got two builds ready for you right now. I went with a mITX form factor because it's smaller size should be more convenient, and I chose a black and white color scheme. The motherboard also has built in WiFi.
I wasn't sure how serious you are about your video recording, so I included enough hdd space for professional use. They've also got an ssd for your OS and some games.
The only difference between the two is that one has an i7-6700 and the other has an i5-6600. These should both be plenty for gaming, but the I7 has hyperthreading which would improve rendering times a lot, and the i5 is cheaper so that you could also afford to throw in a dac.
If you are really serious about video editing and recording I'd go for the i7, but if it's more of a hobby the i5 should be fine.
The onboard audio on the motherboard is okay. It's not the best, but it's not the worst. If you go for the i7 you could probably deal with it, but if you choose the cheaper i5 I'd recommend getting a dac to use with your e12, such as a dragonfly black
Here's the actual builds:
i5: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
i7: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
I hope I could help.
Depends what where you want the audio out.
For the speakers?
not much i can help you there, as i disable the speakers in the bios
For headphones?
The noise floor on the 3.5mm port on the laptop is the worst, if you have sensitive iems you will always hear it.
instead you need to grab a usb dac like
dragonfly
earstudio
btr3
m6
any of these will give you great sound from whatever headphones you have
Another version:
POWER A Storage Case for PSVR - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PoZYxbZBC68NA
Here are two options I found
https://smile.amazon.com/POWER-Storage-Case-PSVR-PlayStation-4/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=sr_1_9?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1473858889&sr=1-9&keywords=psvr
https://smile.amazon.com/Industries-PlayStation-Headset-Accessories-Deluxe-Carrying/dp/B01LB4KJ90/ref=sr_1_5?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1473858932&sr=1-5&keywords=ps+vr
https://www.amazon.com/PowerA-Storage-Case-PSVR-playstation-4/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541462007&sr=8-3&keywords=Psvr+case&dpID=41rGSc1mZ3L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
It’s $12.99 on Amazon. It goes on sale occasionally for $9.99. I think I got mine at best buy. The xbox one controller sits where the hump is and there’s a small pocket on inside top that holds power supply and cable. The go fits perfectly in the cut out area for the psvr. And it’s a hard shell case.
I wonder if it would fit in the PSVR case. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/
I don’t want dust on it or risk it getting knocked over. I use the PowerA case and the official move charging station.
I started with the PowerA Display Station but didn’t care for it. It took up too much space and the headset kept sliding down.
PowerA Storage Case for PSVR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/
PlayStation Move Charging Station
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O6G114/
Personally, I'm waiting for the collective minds stand by here are some other options.
This one but I heard the headset hangs on it and it doesn't feel really secure:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LB4KGOS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478109751&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=psvr+stand
Or get a storage case:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LB4KHF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478109751&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=psvr+stand&dpPl=1&dpID=41x5DFqVtIL&ref=plSrch
This isn't.
Just need some sort of USB attachment... you know... for charging.
https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-AirPods-Pending-Connector-Airpods/dp/B01LVZ4SXN
Not an official product, but it apparently actually exists. :D
bruh
It’s actually not, amazon sells them
https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-AirPods-PENDING-Connector-Airpods/product-reviews/B01LVZ4SXN/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_summary?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=helpful
THE REVIEWS
You need a headset splitter cable like this
https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C
Headset Splitter Cable for PC 3.5mm Jack Headphones Adapter Convertors for PC 3.5mm Female with Headphone/Microphone transform to 2 Dual 3.5mm Male for Computer Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LegXCbD2GBAS4
I've got nothing better to do so I'm going to put a lot of info here just incase anyone else comes across this thread with a similar problem. I'm assuming that you are switching back to a monitor which is why you're asking.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------
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Connecting PC speakers to TV (Kinda pointless just saying)
[For RCA Output] http://www.turtlebeach.com/product-detail/cables-parts/35mm-female-to-rca-stereo-splitter-cable/99
||OR||
[For 3.5MM output] http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B007ZIBURC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552003&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+male+to+female
----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------
[Connecting console to monitor with audio out on the same cable]
(HDMI to DVI with audio out) http://www.amazon.com/Converter-Audio-external-Needed-DA-HVNP/dp/B00BPX13D4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552345&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+with+audio
||OR The Long Way||
You can mix these two adapters to get audio out and still use an hdmi cable by itself.
Using this:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552883&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+cable
Connect it to this:
(S/PDIF [Optical Out] to RCA) http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-AGPtek-Digital-Optical-Converter/dp/B005DIRI6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552748&sr=8-1&keywords=spdif+to+rca
THEN connect the female rca from that small box to this:
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395552852&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm+female
Then connect your speaker's 3.5mm male cable to the female 3.5mm cable.
looks like that tv does not have an analog audio output so you would need something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21-Optical-Converter-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7TA/
there are cheaper ones, at around $12-16, but those don't have a headphone out, just a line level analog out, meant for powered speakers. so i recommended this one. also there is no volume adjustment so i recommend a headphone with a volume control. you also need a digital optical cable such as:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/
for question 2, you can try putting the TV into 1:1 pixel mapping. not all TVs have this option, unfortunately. you can check if it does, but pressing the 'picture' button on your remote. sometimes its called "just scan"
Makes sense haha. And through a TOSLINK (also known as optical) cable such as this.
The adapter alone will not give you audio AND chat with X31's.
The problem with the X31's is they do not utilize optical audio, just the red/white RCA cables.
So, You can get yet ANOTHER adapter ( a "Y" adapter I guess) that plugs into the to-be-released headset adapter, which would still require rca/3.5" converter, or you can get a solution that will allow you to use them wireless for game audio.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TH7GSW
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EPW7TA
Edit: I have the X32's and the above items got them working with the XB1 without a hitch, minus chat capabilities obviously.
So the way I have my Xbox setup with a soundbar is via an Optical Cable through the TV, however this is so all sound from my TV feeds through it.
Amazon Basics Optical Toslink Cable - $5.99 - By far the best quality cable for the price in terms of build. However you can get some from Monoprice - $2 for cheaper.
---
My soundbar connection
Xbox > HDMI > TV > Optical > Soundbar
---
Another method is just a straight connection if all you want it for is your Xbox One. Then using possibly the Stereo Audio for your other products (if any).
---
Easy Direct Connection
Xbox > Optical > Soundbar
Oh wow! Bleed over from my other hobby, homebrewing. You'll need a temperature controller. You can build one: http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2015/08/step-by-step-temperature-build-using-the-stcitc-1000.html
Or you can buy a prebuilt one. I have a Johnson controls A419 for homebrewing purposes and it is a study, simple piece of equipment. https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA
I bought this 4 years ago and it's worked perfectly:https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500142335&sr=8-2&keywords=johnson+controls+temperature+controller
I suppose you could duplicate this with an Arduino, some relays and a temp probe, but with the amp draw of the freezer I feel a lot more comfortable with an off the shelf product.
> You'll need to do some wiring yourself
= house on fire for me.
I have the digital Johnson controller and I love it. No wiring, just plug it in-line with the freezer and boom, instant temp control.
here's mine, i started like you just opening the lid before i added the collar.
it holds 5 kegs, ball lock.
i use a johnson for control.
advice: just jump in, you won't regret it. buy a 20lb co2 tank. i would buy a double regulator from the get go if i was doing it again. also seconding the perlick taps, they are awesome
I have one of these digital controllers which does exactly what you're looking for. I'm super happy with it.
If you're thinking cheaper, there's an analog version as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA
This is what I have. It plugs into the wall, the fridge plugs into it. You set the temp at what you want and it cuts the power to the fridge when it cools to that point. The temp is read by a probe that you put in the fridge. Mine is belted to the side of whatever I am brewing under a piece of foam to try and get the most accurate temp for what is fermenting. It works greats, and the only thing that would be better would be a glycol jacketed conical. It is still the best investment I have made in homebrewing.
I've got two, one I built from a PID temp controller from ebay. The other is a pre fab johnson digital controller this one They both work fine, I prefer the pre fab one for the quality though.
Not OP but I put my wine in a chest freezer set to 55F using the Johnson Controls A419 (very popular among homebrewers, where most of the info comes from).
You plug in the fridge to the controller, and the controller into a regular outlet, and then set up your temp probe inside the fridge. Most people put it in a container of water, because it will change slower than air temp and you don't want the compressor kicking on and off constantly.
You set the temp probe's upper and lower limits (basically when does it turn on and off, respectively) and the target temp, and off you go!
Kind of... but sous-vide cookers can get much better results than slow cookers because they can cook with cooler temperatures and fluid immersion, (although there are tools that can allow slow cookers to cook sous-vide).
For $6 you could buy this stove 15 times before buying a $100 MSR once. I'm pretty happy with it. Worth getting and trying for a weekend. if you don't like it it's a great stocking stuffer.
I like getting the small things as gifts. Things I misplace or might not grab myself.
Gerber Dime Multi-Tool, Black [30-000469] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006M9NIDO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pvcBxb58D4MMB
Aimkon iTP A3 EOS Max 130 Lumen LED Flashlight Cool White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BM5GQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_-vcBxb144A2CF
Frogg Toggs The Original Chilly Pad Cooling Towel, Ice White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKCUSMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DwcBxb22YD8AD
Leegoal Ultralight Backpacking Canister Camp Stove with Piezo Ignition 3.9oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pxcBxbQZ4XD4G
NEW Bottle Clip Strap With Compass Camping Hiking Carabiner Water Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3YOLDO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pycBxbYD4T2JS
BINGONE Nylon 4-in-1 Drawstring Bags / Ditty Bag / Cord Bag Home Storage Travel Use 4 Different Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VM4HR6S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_dzcBxbMF0HKZ8
WindFire® Mini Zoomable 3 Modes UV-Ultraviolet Led Blacklight Flashlight AA/14500 Rechargeable Battery Zoom UV Ultraviolet Blacklight Flashlight Torch with Features Money Detector, Leak detector and Cat-Dog-Pet Urine Detector (Battery not included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S4CFB4G/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_KzcBxbEKNHQTQ
iPerb® Aluminum Alloy Tri-cone Shaped Tent Stakes Pegs 15g Each-Pack of 14 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LD2TIUM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pAcBxbKVMRABT
Bluecell 16Pcs Red Color Aluminum Guyline Cord Adjuster for Tent Camping Hiking Backpacking Picnic Shelter Shade Canopy Outdoor Activity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUDFMI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NAcBxb0GS1V7V
Nite Ize Reflective Nylon Cord, Woven for High Strength, 50 Feet, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MMEHTC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_9AcBxbDAJPW6D
Nite Ize KRG-03-11 S-Biner Key Ring, Stainless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MMEHWE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NEcBxb41K6YTE
Stove, light, knife, cord, stakes, tensioners, blacklight for scorpion spotting for fun, water bottle clip, kee cool wet towel, ditty bags, micro s-biners. For mostly under 10 bucks, few under 20.
Pick some. That flashlight rocks my socks, but I have all of these things.
Ok, it got kind of late and not everything is available yet, so in lieu of the photo, here's a full list:
Bike stuff:
Camp stuff:
Clothing:
On my body/miscellaneous:
Undecided
If I have any glaring omissions, or if you can tell me from experience, "Dude, you don't need to bring that!", then I will be super grateful for your insight into this.
edit for formatting
My SO and I did a nobo this year. We had one stove and two cups. We started with a pot, which I think was 1.3 liters, and sent it home in Neels Gap cause it was heavy and we never used it.
$100 is a bit much. You can find good ones cheap.
I really like the can idea though because it will work for anyone in a pinch.
I've been using this $8 stove I got on Amazon, and so far it's been working just as well as my friend's Pocket Rocket. Just putting that out there.
But out of curiosity, where would you recommend finding used gear?
This looks like it has everything you asked for.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=pd_cp_e_1
Something like this should be able to help?
picked mine up just about 6 years ago and I just got some HE400s yesterday. Have fun!
I still love mine, they are super beefy, but the headband will go at some point. This replacement works, I promise. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sucks it doesn't come with an AC adapter, especially since you got the battery edition! I will say that you probably want to use a 6.5mm-3.5mm plug adapter that has a cord on it to prevent stress on the 3.5mm jack there: https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y/
Be carefull with that 6.3m>3.5 plug , its not all that sturdy and has ruined one of my headphone input slot things .do yourself a favor and get one like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm-3-5mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y
There's no quality degradation from an adapter, and a cheap adapter will sound just as good as an expensive one. These things either tend to work or not, there's nothing in between.
Just don't get a plug-style adapter: this builds a big torque multiplier that'll rip up your port if you put leverage on it. Get a cable-style adapter like this one from Sennheiser.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JGWY2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RRlLBb783S6MQ
FiiO K1 would be fine for sound output to the headphones, but with the HyperX Cloud II you'd still be plugging the microphone part of the headset directly into the laptop. Looks like the Beats Audio version of the HP Envy 15 has only one audio port, meaning it's probably a TRRS headset port, which probably would work just fine with the Cloud without the K1.
If it ends up not being fine, the K1 would fix the headphone portion but may give you problems with the Mic portion of the headset. If that is the case, the Creative Sound Blaster E1 may solve your problem, and you can get one used from Amazon Warehouse for ~$43.
My current set-up, though not always the most straight-forward is by far the most versatile and best price-quality ratio I could find!
The whole setup will cost under $250 for some really awesome quality, both listening and recording.
It's simply not meant for this, and pro audio uses entirely different formats. You need some kind of semi-pro, telecom, amplifier/splitter box for headphone/mic combos.
I'll bet they exist so that call center trainees and trainers can take calls together. Check http://www.fullcompass.com/
Also, this looks like a possibiity: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated-Smartphones/dp/B00J2JATL0
Might be a grounding issue. Make sure all the cables are all the way in and in the right spots. Also make sure you're using the cable that splits the mic and headphones since iirc they come with both a mobile and pc cable. I doubt that it's an issue with your mobo powering the headphones, but a solution to both the grounding issue and powering would be either the Creative Sound Blaster E1 or the Syba Sonic DAC/AMP. Both of these should be more than enough to power Game Ones and they both come with separate jacks for the audio and mic which would solve grounding problems.
Why not just go >Lightning to 3.5mm
into > 3.5mm splitter into > male to male 3.5mm to your recorder, with the other end of the splitter going to your headphones?
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6
Can't you get an audio splitter like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Headphone-Compatible-Smartphones-Gold-plated-Black/dp/B00LM0ZGK6
Then both you and your brother could be wearing headphones (using only one ear to hear each other).
I use an audio splitter with a stereo to mono adaptor on one side of the split, like this.
If I'm doing something by myself, I plug the headphones into the clear line and use both channels. If I'm gaming with my partner, who's sitting in the same room, I plug into the mono adaptor and just use one earpiece, so that we can talk at the same time.
If you only ever use the headphones for mono content (I guess you use speakers for videos etc), you could skip the splitter and just use the mono adaptor directly in line on your headphone cable.
+1 for HM5's. I have used the pleather and the angled pleather and they are both great for these cans. I find the angled a bit better comfort wise. Although the red HM5's look stunning on the m50's in my opinion.
Heard these are comfortable.
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00OLKV5LI
I've had a dreamgear grip since I got my 3DSXL a year ago, and it works really well for me. [Here's the new one on Amazon.] (http://smile.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453320607&sr=8-1&keywords=3ds+grip+dreamgear)
Any questions, just ask :)
I use this and really like it.
Where did you get yours? I've been looking to get one but the Monster Hunter one is over 40$ on Amazon. This is the only decently priced one I've seen on Amazon.
I think it would be difficult to implement the two screen thing (maybe not, just make your TV output both screens onto the one). It would be cool.
On another note, as far as hand cramps go, I also used to get bad cramps playing my 3DS XL. I purchased these grips and also considered this grip as well. It made a world of difference. Just finished off Link Between Worlds pulling about 2-3 hour sessions each time. I have medium sized hands (7-8).
edit: apparently there is a newer version of the grips I purchased. See here. Slightly different. But, again, they made a world of difference for me.
I had the Old 3ds version of that one and it was really good. When I switched to the N3ds I got this one https://www.amazon.ca/silicone-platform-accidental-scratches-ergonomic/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y which is also great and doubles as a scratch protector. Downside is it covers the cartridge slot which I guess can be a bit of a pain if you like your games physical.
i recently purchased one of these and i'm liking it.
i have it attached to my bookshelf right next to my desk.
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41U9neHRCvL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KPTCVTXKVK5DR4EBXWW
This is the head phone hanger I use under a shelf that is next to my desk . They also have this.
I use one of these. It works well.
Nice, a sleek black and white aesthetic. Nothing is out of place here. Glad you went with a mouse mat with a small logo.
I don't have any suggestions really since it's all but perfect. I can offer a potential upgrade or two if you have money that needs spending!
A headphone stand has already been mentioned but the style of headphone stand that you decide to go with is also a consideration. You can get ones that stand on your desk. These are good if you want the headphones to be a point of attention on the desk. They are nice-looking Grados so might be a good idea.
If you want headphones on your desk but not to take up any space then you can get ones that attach to the edge like this or to the underside of the desk like this.
If you don't want them to be anywhere near the desk then you can find wall mounted ones or something you can stick to the side of a desk leg if it's wide enough à la this.
If you want a better quality LED bulb for your lamp (because it is a nice lamp!) then it might be worth investing into some high CRI (90+, ideally ~95-97) LED bulbs. They can be expensive but they are very nice. Make sure that you double-check the base type of the bulb already in the lamp before you buy. Yuji LED sell what are probably the best LED bulbs you can buy right now. You can also choose between colour temperature. If you only use the lamp during the evening then go for the 3000K option for a warmer colour.
For a future and more expensive investment (that could also become a hobby), you should look into buying or building a custom mechanical keyboard. Your setup would love it! Check out /r/MechanicalKeyboards if you're interested.
Hope this helps!
Miles.
I went with two of these for my Grados and HD6XX's.
They're fine on your laptop but suck on your phone, so you want something for your laptop?
Well anyway, for portable use I'd say try out the Fiio K1. $40
If you'll use it only on your laptop then there's the FX-Audio Dac X6. $65
If you want to do WiFi streaming, install $3.50 BubbleUPnP on the phone and use the Windows 10 built-in DLNA streaming. If you're on Ubuntu you can install pulseaudio-dlna and use it as output from sound settings. I'm sure there's something for Mac as well.
For USB, what you're looking for is called a USB DAC. If you're really strapped for cash and don't have fancy tastes in sound quality, or quality headphones, then one of these $5-7 puppies will take care of it. Quality is touch and go, some may be DOA and need replacing, but they'll get the job done. You can also go for a $20 Signstek (PCM2704), but I wouldn't recommend more expensive ones without knowing what headphones you're using and what you want from them.
If you do, I can recommend the $40 FiiO K1, $65 SMSL SD793-II or $75 FiiO E10K, but if you do that you should also look into putting $50-200 into decent headphones and you're probably not looking for that.
Whatever you do DO NOT get USB headphones. Decent ones are expensive, cheap ones are absolute crap. A $5 DAC like above and a $25 pair of Sennheiser HD202 will be better and can be replaced separately or even taken apart and repaired if they break.
It's the Fiio K1
I don’t have an issue with my AirPods falling out but my friend recommended these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0.skDbK3V7F78
I put my AirPods in little silicone ear hooks. They never fall out, a cheap easy upgrade if you want AirPods for any other reason.
EarBuddyz 2.0 Ear Hooks and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have these ones
EarBuddyz 2.0 Ear Hooks and Covers Accessories for Apple AirPods or EarPods Headphones/ Earphones/ Earbuds (3 Pairs) (Clear) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F3LZBbCV08JRD
I've worn them for several major marathons. Sometimes interference at the start but as long as the music is stored on your phone/ipod, there shouldn't be any problem. I bought small "wings" on Amazon that they fit into so they don't fall out of my ears during the race.
https://www.amazon.com/EarBuddyz-Accessories-AirPods-Headphones-Earphones/dp/B019BREFE4
(edit: posted link)
I use one of these.
Works out of the box in windows, osx, and linux. No config needed. You can plug the usb in and it'll show up as a sound card, or you can use it as an inline amp with other 3.5 mm stuff.
Creative Sound Blaster E1 Portable Headphone Amplifier with Integrated Mic and Dual Headphone Jacks for PC and Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J2JATL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1Hq9BbT78D9PF
Found this one on sale
I have a set of those cables for my momentum 2.0s def recommend the cable as well. the 598s I'm fine with the rubber since I just use em for in home use. Are you using a dac/amp by any chance, Ive been using the Creative E1 for both pc and portable but been looking at upgrades. The e1 has been great for mobile but it hasn't been playing nice with my pc lately.
The link showed a few different options. Is it this? https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated-Smartphones/dp/B00J2JATL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499034372&sr=8-1&keywords=sound+blaster+portable
I suggest trying first, and if you hear static interference or whatnot, then a usb splitter will work. Although depending on your headphones I might just pony up a bit more for a sound card instead.
First off, GREAT choice in headphones.
I have the same Audio Technicas and the sound quality is beyond phenomenal. What I use is a cheap Sound Blaster in line USB rechargeable preamp. It plugs into the PS4's headphone jack and it provides a mild volume boost, a decent microphone, and a headphone splitter.
Here's the model that I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00J2JATL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1498110607&sr=8-18&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=headphone+preamp#featureBulletsAndDetailBullets_secondary_view_div_1498110750937
I hope that this helps.
Of course they use professional hard- and software as everyone already said. But if you literally just want to use 2 headphones for the same audio source and without any adjustment options, a regular audio splitter for a few bucks is the cheapest option. Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Headphone-Compatible-Smartphones-Connector/dp/B00LM0ZGK6
Silly me, i forgot the JBLs do not have RCA inputs.
This cable to split the output from the source:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/
​
This cable for the speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/
This cable for the subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I3CwDb0R2S5CH
UGREEN 3.5mm Audio Stereo Y Splitter Cable
Would that work for what you need?
UGREEN 3.5mm Audio Stereo Y Splitter Extension Cable 3.5mm Male to 2 Port 3.5mm Female for Earphone, Headset Splitter Adapter, Compatible for iPhone, Samsung, LG, Tablets, MP3 Players, Metal Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TgvEDbH004M9Z
The cheap option is to buy a small mixer like the Behringer Xenyx 502 and use a splitter cable to provide two headphone outputs. Slightly more expensive would be to add a multi-channel headphone amplifier to the mixer, giving you independent volume controls for up to four sets of headphones.
A 3.5mm audio splitter will do the trick. Just be careful as it will put the same level of audio output on the headphones as the speakers. Turn down Windows audio so you don't overdrive the headphones. You will need to increase the volume on your speakers to compensate.
So something like this would be ok?
3.5mm splitter then 3.5mm to rca from it
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6
This should work. It's a 3.5 Y splitter. Plug the male end into the amp and connect the two female ends to your phone and headphones.
would something like this work for you?
Yes, you have two separate outputs, on for your sub and one for your speakers. You'll need a splitter that combines these two separate stereo channels into a single one. Then you can output a stereo signal to both your speakers and sub. This is what you need to combine the stereo channels.
Most mp3 files used in beatmaps are pretty low quality (a lot of them sound like 192kbps or lower to me), so if it sounds great to you, you should listen to some 320kbps or FLAC music. It's hard to listen to music from osu when you're used to lossless or even 320kbps. Don't bother picking up a nice pair of headphones for low quality music.
Anyway, since you asked for a recommendation, I would tone down the pricing and suggest HD 598s or Audio Technica ATH-M50x (definitely the latter if you are concerned with isolation. 598s have basically no isolation since they are open back). I've had them both and they are really good all around. One thing you must get if you go with ATH-M50x is replacement ear pads. The standard pads are extremely uncomfortable, and some people even think replacement pads sound better too.
Those expensive pairs you were listing are totally useless for osu. If you want to start listening to high quality music, then go for it. But if you are buying those with osu in mind, please save your money.
You should pick up these HM5 pads. Makes the headset so much better. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OLKV5LI?psc=1
Brainwavz color earpads $13 Amazon lightning deal
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OLKV5LI/
Brainwavz velour angled earpads $15
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Angled-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGFVEUE/
wall of text....let's break it down....
--------------------------------
> So, I made a mistake by posting this on the wrong subreddit and got some advice from there. I decided to come here, where my post won't be deleted because I was stupid.
Happens to many people. But now you're here, so, zero issue.
> Alright, here's the dealio. So I have had my current headset for over 3 years now, and I want to get an upgrade since it is becoming very uncomfortable since my head has grown, and I also just want better sound.
Ok, lets get crakin'
> I'm pretty sure I have boiled it down to my top 3 but really cant decide, so I decided to ask some people that know their stuff. So, what I am thinking of is the Arctis 3, since it is pretty much the same as the 5's, the Hyper X Cloud 2's/1's, since everyone tells me that they are the best, and I loooooove noise cancelling headphones, and the audio technica ath m40x.
Arctis series (and really, all SteelSeries) products are junk.
The HyperX Cloud series is a good product.
The M40X is a good product.
>But, the reason I have not decided is because of all the negatives I have found through research and reviews about these. From my research, I found that out of all of them,
Internet reviews, band-waggoning, wolf-packing etc. Yea, it makes it hard to do research because a negative here, and a negative there, and that just compounds the issues (which may not exist, because of user error, mfr defects, or other variables).
> the arctis 3's have the worst sound quality, which I found is also pretty similar to the ones I have right now.
No debate there.
> For the Cloud 2/1 I have also heard that they are good, but they aren't as good as dedicated headphones. I am also worried that they might not be comfortable for me.
Ok, the Cloud series (with the Cloud Core/Pro, Cloud II, and Cloud Alpha being the 3 stars of the line, with the Cloud Stinger being the best of the ~<$50 headsets). The Cloud series is based of the Takstar Pro80 headphone, a competent clone of the famous Beyerdynamic DT770. Kingston really nailed the gaming headset market here, because the Cloud series is truly fantastic value, with its sound quality over other headsets, and rivaling that of a lot of headphones in it's price range(s). AND they are very well built, and very comfortable out of the box. (And they can be modified with 3rd party pads very easily.) Their mic is reasonably good (not Sennheiser good, but better than most headsets by miles.)
They are also a bit heavier than most gaming headsets because they are so well built. Now, to get to the nitty-gritty, the differences are:
> And last, I have heard that the m40x's are uncomfortable.
Yes, common consensus (and even my own personal experience) the M40X in stock form have some comfort issue. They have tight clamp, and the stock earpads are kinda awful considering that Kingston managed to package the Cloud series with earpads that are substantially better. So, if you buy the M40X, it should be automatically factored into your budget for another $20-30 for decent leather or leatherette earpads. A good suggest without breaking bank would be something like Brainwavz pads (https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Earpads-Headphones/dp/B00OLKV5LI) with many people saying the Angled Sheepskin pads ($30-40?) are the best for the M40X.
Some minor other 'headband' stretching may be required too...
> Please help me make my decision, and if you have other suggestions for other headphones, I will be glad to hear it. I'm looking for headphones up to the $100 ish price. I don't need like a headset, even though some of the things I mentioned above were headsets. By that I mean, I don't need a microphone to come with it. I simply just want a comfy, and good pair of headphones that I can play games with.
If you don't care for the Mic, there are DOZENS of options to go though...
so, lets simplify it.
if you do get these then get these if you find the stock pads uncomfortable https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00OLKV5LI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480584300&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=Brainwavz+Replacement+Memory+Foam+Earpads
hm5 pads (22-25$) and the geekria headband (~10$)
I recommend switching the pads out for [these]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OLKV5LI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) as the standard pads make the bass sound terrible (feels nonexistent). At least with these pads you get to enjoy the clear mid/trebles while having ok bass.
Brainwavz hm5 pads.
You can get them here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OLKV5LI/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=31wn5jPAXZL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL100_SR100,67_&amp;refRID=03JB68Z114KH3VVHXZJD&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1 And here: http://www.brainwavzaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/pleather-headphone-pad
Yes, I bought them to replace the originals. They are larger and more comfortable. Highly recommend. They come in 11 different colours.http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OLKV5LI?psc=1
this is the one I got,
I use the Cyber grip (version 2) for my N 3DS XL: https://www.amazon.com/Gadget-Coating-Nintendo-New-3DS-LL/dp/B013JDH8J0
I have large hands, so I also liked the circle pad pro. This feels similar, though of course using the nub instead of the CPP's right analog stick takes some getting used to.
This soft grip was too squishy for me. https://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y
It wasn't terrible, but I apparently squeeze very tightly as I play, and my hands squished the cushions into oblivion. I prefer the "push-back" resistance of a harder grip. A frequent complaint in the Amazon reviews is that there isn't a cutout for the cartridge slot, but who needs to play anything other than Monster Hunter anyway?
Just FYI, a PSP joystick fits perfectly on the New 3DS XL. Just yoink the C-nub out with the tip of a knife or with pliers and stick it on there. This is the exact one I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010H8223M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bsBuDbWKVTYAP
It looks great and works like absolute magic. Here's what it looks like on my 3DS: https://i.imgur.com/Qpp7T6j.jpg
And then you can get this case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZBBuDbZ6BNP2H
Makes it feel like you're holding an xbox controller it's so comfortable. With these two modifications I can hunt for hours straight without the slightest bit of discomfort.
And about MH: Stories, it's just such a nice game. It's unusual to find a game just so bright and happy, and the Pokèmon gameplay is really good IMO and the animations are insane - But it still is Pokémon gameplay, so if you don't like turn-based stuff it's not for you.
I use this on the N3DSXL.
Yeah. It’s got more expensive since it first came out (when I bought it).
This one I used before the grip I mentioned. It worked pretty good:
https://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y
I have one. This one.
I had the same problem with the 3DS, but then I got one of these, and it really helps. I'd recommend giving it a try, if you haven't yet.
Get the n3ds xl and get the grip from amazon. I always carry my 3ds around and never really play for more than 30 mins on the go. So you can still take it places for short bursts of play, or play at home for hours with the grip.
I think you need a grip. I have a NN3DSXL and I use this grip:
http://www.amazon.com/Monster-Hunter-Cross-hunting-Nintendo-3DS/dp/B016XCSBC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458922077&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=monster+hunter+x+gear
It makes my DS just as comfortable as an XBOX 360 controller. Its a little expensive now though.
This one is priced pretty well and its super comfy. I used it before the XGear
http://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=pd_sim_63_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41YTAgSfpML&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=09KBYP97GKZHT6HWYKDW
get one of the clear cases officially licensed by Nintendo.
Or if your problem isn't the device staying in your hands you could try one of these but they don't have an open space to put in cards; not a problem if you slapped a beefy sd card in there and are all digital though.
Not OP but this is the one I bought.
OP's looks much nicer, but for $20 this one works great for me, I have large enough hands to palm a basketball and they never get uncomfortable with this grip. It comes in 2 separate piece so I left the top cover off and only use the bottom part.
http://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y
More comfortable than CyberGrip
If you get a N3DSXL and a "controller" case the cramps will go away.
This is the best thing ever.
I don't know how people use the normal version. I have an XL and I still needed to get one of these.
Shovel knight!!
Also some free games that are worth the download
Pokemon pic cross
Zelda pic cross (see here https://my.nintendo.com/rewards)
Can't buy the game. Only available thru rewards program. I recommend you hop on it asap. Free games/themes show up every once in a while)
That submarine battle game (its free on eshop). Best shooting game I've experienced for the 3ds. Sorry can't remember the name.
Badge arcade- almost always get free plays, and you get to decorate your home menu with them.
Also big life pro tip, Play games with headphones.
Also worth it in my opinion (see here--> dreamGEAR Comfort GRIP Protection for your NEW Nintendo 3DS XL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rl1lybR9S0F7W)
That grip pad helps prevent hand cramps when playing for a extended period of time.
I agree with /u/qkslvr8216 and i think it was an amazing investment if you want to protect ur 3DS like a baby. Then again im a germaphobe and a person with OCD so i like to keep my 3DS extremely clean.
The grip had a chemical smell for the first month but eventually it will be gone. Also, the grip might trigger L/R buttons randomly because of its sizing(not really an issue when ur playing pokemon).
Overall I highly recommend it! This was the one I bought.
WooAudio makes some very nice aluminum ones, within budget - http://www.wooaudio.com/products/wahps.html
I augment with some cheap/compact Brainwavez hangers from Amazon for when I have more than one pair in an area: https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28
[brainwavz hengja] (https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28)
Brainwavz hangers maybe? Like this one. They also have other types.
> P.S I know what yall are thinking, this is some rich fat kid that sits on his ass all day and needs everything perfect.
Didn't cross my mind at all but thanks for clarifying anyways. Had me worried.
http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Peridot-Headphone-Stand-Suitable/dp/B00AE0IEHM
http://www.amazon.com/AmoVee-Acrylic-Headphone-Stand-Black/dp/B00SGW9QLS
http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28
http://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand-Mount/dp/B00P31BMHG
Take your pick.
EletecPro Headphone Stand Holder,Universal Aluminum Alloy Gaming Headset earphone Holder Table Desk Display Rack Hanger Orgnizer Support For All Headphone Sizes (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KH8TDM5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VAz0Db9C0XPY4
Headphone Stand Headset Holder New Bee Earphone Stand with Aluminum Supporting Bar Flexible Headrest ABS Solid Base for All Headphones Size (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJQ7N94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tAz0Db415312R
Under Desk Dual Headphone Hanger, 6amLifestyle Metal Headset Stand Gaming Earphone Holder Universal Clamp on Desk Hanger Hook for All Headsets, Black (Patent) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PMGZKRB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cBz0DbTJ44DY9
Brainwavz Hengja - The Desk Headphone Hanger Stand Mount, All Metal, Headset Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012VIWG28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ADz0DbXVFX0YM
The top two monitors look like a crazy angle... do you strain having to look up while sitting?
I have 3x monitors (27, 30, and 24), and the 24 is vertical. I was going to put 4th on top (to have an inverted T situation), but I think it'll be annoying having to look up.
Also, why use the laptop on the far right? Why not put the 4th monitor there vertically?
And you didn't mention the cool headphone mount. I'm guessing it's https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28/
Also, are you going to do anything w/ the wires (rats nest) in the back? I have the same problem w/ my sit/stand desk, and I'm going to try to build some kind of way to keep the wires up & out of the way.
Its a clampy thing!
Here it is on my desk.
I just looked it up. Looks like this is the product.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012VIWG28/ref=pd_aw_lpo_23_tr_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HZJ6ZMYNJF00XP9TY7WS
I searched "Desk clamp for head phones"
I actually recently got this thing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012VIWG28/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
it works pretty well, I like it.
I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012VIWG28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 not really a stand but its nice and wide where my a40's rest. I have had it for over a year. Also I want to note that I am using a mod kit on my a40's. I hope this helps.
I'm actually using a headphone holder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012VIWG28/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503983854&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=headphone+holder&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41U9neHRCvL&amp;ref=plSrch
Again for me its only been a couple of days of switching between both so after extended use it might be better. Also besides that Oscoo hub the Moshi 3.5mm/charging adapter is the only way to charge your phone and listen to wired headphones at the same time.
If you are looking for dac/amp here a few to look at:
Fio K1- Its one of the most popular and well reviewed entry level portable dacs at the moment. 24-bit/96khz dac/amp that is supposed to be well balance with a low noise floor for about $40.
Dragonfly Red / [Dragonfly Black] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F7L3I14/ref=dp_sp_detail?psc=1) . These are probably the most highly rated and recommended dac/amps for their price range. The best comparison I've heard between the two is that the Black will get 80% there while the Red will take you the rest of the way.
SMSL IDEA / Sabaj Da2 - Made by the same factory and using the same chipset under different brand names. These have also been getting rave reviews due to being sub 100 dacs but have the sound quality of much more expensive dacs. Also both come with usb-c otg cables. Both can be found on amazon with the IDEA being a little more expensive than the Da2.
If you are looking for a quality budget portable DAC/Amp.. FiiO is a popular choice. FiiO K1 maybe?
I'd recommend sending that back if you can and investing in something slightly meatier like this i'd imagine that logitec thing is very low powered. I'd also maybe look at different kernels for the 5x like franco which will give you much more gain also
Yes, there are a fair amount of other options. https://www.amazon.com/K1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B0189EVGAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487044557&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Android+dac
You'll get a lot better audio quality using a USB DAC compared to just the standars aux out.
I found this from this article and is by far the DAC that suits my taste the best, both looks wise, as well as price-wise, but look at the article, and see if there's something that's more you. (Also you might need an OTG cable, please contact me when you decided on the DAC, and need help choosing an OTG cable)
Edit: There's also this somewhat expensive USB-C DAC, which if you can justify the cost, might be the better choice!
You can use a Fiio K7 DAC which is a small, portable USB DAC. You would just need to purchase a short micro USB to USB type-c cable in order to connect it. I use this on my Axon sometimes
[FiiO K1](FiiO K1 Portable Headphone Amplifier and USB DAC, Titanium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0189EVGAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DRuBzb11C3AGP)
If you need a basic Starter AMP/DAC, [FiiO K1] (https://www.amazon.com/K1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B0189EVGAG) or [Schiit Fulla] (http://schiit.com/products/fulla)
If you want a Better starter AMP/DAC when you get better headphones in the future and possibly want speakers as well, [FiiO E10K] (https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=pd_sim_23_21?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00LP3AMC2&amp;pd_rd_r=MNNRBCB735A2MXBD3XHA&amp;pd_rd_w=SUoRO&amp;pd_rd_wg=3Gad4&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MNNRBCB735A2MXBD3XHA), [SMSL M3] (https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481332017&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=smsl+m3), [Schiit Fulla 2] (http://schiit.com/products/fulla-2) or [Micca Origen+] (https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)
EDIT: SMSL M3 can drive passive speakers, though the Micca Origen+ can drive powered speakers if that helps
You could get a cheap dac/amp like the Fiio K1, so you won't be limited to USB headphones.
If you want a headset, the Kingston HyperX Cloud is a solid choice.
I had the same problem with mine on the treadmill. Got these guys for them, it's a game changer.
For everyone that is/was having fit issues (as was I), please do give these a try: link
Can be remedied - https://www.amazon.com/EarBuddyz-Accessories-Compatible-Headphones-Earphones/dp/B019BREFE4
EarBuddyz 2.0 Ear Hooks and Covers Accessories Compatible with Apple AirPods 1 & AirPods 2 or EarPods Headphones/Earphones/Earbuds (3 Pairs) (Clear) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yhw4CbKE63YMA
Thanks for the reply. What's funny is the thing that made me buy the BeatsX over AirPods last year was I wanted them for working out, but every time I do a bench workout where I lay on my back, the lanyard falls down my back and is annoying to deal with. I had to use the Wing attachment on the BeatsX to keep them from falling out for me, and I see on Amazon that you can buy a similar attachment.
Get these:
https://www.amazon.com/EarBuddyz-Attachment-Earphones-Headphones-Earbuds/dp/B019BREFE4/
Yeah. My AirPods with these make for great headphones while working out.
So I got 2 different types-
I like the AhaStyle more because they're easy to take on and off as well as more discreet, but the Earbuddyz are more comfortable. The AhaStyle ones do come with a case which is super nice. Both styles stay in my ears without any problem.
I have these -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019BREFE4
And yes, they improve both the fit (for me) and the sound of the AirPods. The sound improvement is due to the increased isolation caused by the tighter fit. Downside is that they have to come on and off because of the case fit. So I only use them if I plan on extended use of the AirPods (they do come on and off easily). When I want really good sound and fit, I reach for either my Bose Soundsports or QuietComfort 35 II's but it's hard to beat the convenience of the AirPods.
That one should work fine.
Or go for something better:
Cambridge Audio DacMagic 100
Pro-Ject USB Box S+
Topping D50 HiFi Audio DAC
SMSL SA M3
SMSL Sanskrit
M-Audio Transit Pro
Nobsound Hi-Fi
Sabaj D3
Topping OPA2134
I've got a pair of 990s and they're amazing for shooters. Highly elevated treble which makes gunshots // footsteps really audible. I pair them with these, recommended by Z Reviews: https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMSL-M3-Powered-Audio-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O
This one maybe https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMSL-M3-Powered-Audio-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=smsl+m3&amp;qid=1573921685&amp;sprefix=smsl+m&amp;sr=8-1
No problem, i know what you mean with all the snake oil and real stuff mixed together.
For under 100:
The Schiit Fulla 2 just came out and has seen pretty great reviews. For what I understand, it uses the same DAC module as their standalone Modi, which costs a 100 itself.
The [SMSL M3] (https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O) has done me well and has enough power for you.
SMSL M3 if you need a S/Pidf in. 80 bucks on Amazon
Actually, the SMSL SD 793ii is on Massdrop right now for 57.99 Link I would probably buy this.
In order of price:
You could just buy the Magni 2 and use your existing DAC. I feel this would be the most cost effective and efficient solution personally.
Look up the reviews on these two. Monoprice planar headphones, if you haven't heard planar type headphones you're in for a treat. SMSL should drive them it has a 24 bit/192 kHz sample rate via optical and coaxial, and a 24 bit/96 kHz sample rate via USB. If your computer has coaxial spdif I'd do that, but USB should be fine too just limited to 96kHz but I think that's tidals max supported sample unless we add MQA but I don't care much about MQA.
https://www.amazon.com/Monolith-16050-Planar-Magnetic-Headphones/dp/B01N32N5DD
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O
/r/headphones is a nice place to browse
Well, fuck. I forgot to post my own.
Speaker and amp combo is great. Look at the SMSL M3 for a dac and it will give you a good headphone out.
Just wanted to let people know that the Avantree headphone stand will be on sale today on Amazon.
It's a pretty damn good headphone stand and should be around $27. Its not worth a full post but I have seen a few people asking about a good headphone stand and this one is pretty good for the price. I may order a second one for myself. So if your looking for a good headphone stand this is a decent option if your headphone fits on it.
Edit: Avantree Solid Steel Headphone Stand Holder Hanger, Sturdy with Space for Cable, Great for Sennheiser, Sony, Audio-Technica, Bose, Shure, AKG, Panasonic Headphones and More - HS102 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01A09KCJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0m7IybRT2E9CD
Sale starts in 2 and half hours from posting this.
Here's the Amazon link
Thanks! Here
This stand:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01A09KCJ4?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Also it’s a Karlby 96” countertop on two Alex drawers, both from IKEA for a total of like $350-ish I think?
It's this one:
Avantree Universal Aluminum Desk Headphone Stand
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A09KCJ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Thank you and here you go: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01A09KCJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01A09KCJ4?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
This is the one I ordered, I payed a little less than that but it's still a decent price.
Yeah, I mean, it's not like I can't think of any gifts within the price range, but it's one of the few exchanges where I can only think of maybe a dozen gifts, which is really different than the other exchanges:
I couldn't afford much so I just went with the FiiO A1 for my M50x pair: https://smile.amazon.com/FiiO-A1-Silver-Portable-Headphone/dp/B01CPUVPEM
I know that this is by no means the best option out there, but it's what I have right now. I think it sounds quite good, but it is my first set of higher-end cans, and it's the first headphone amp I've used. With your budget I imagine someone may recommend the FiiO A3 or the Q1 and be able to tell you more about it. I'd be interested in that as well since I'm looking at getting a Q1 for my first DAC/Amp.
Hope this helps.
get one of these!
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-A1-Silver-Portable-Headphone/dp/B01CPUVPEM/
I would recommend the Fiio A1 I use it with my Sennheiser HD598 to push them a little louder than the volume allows. Plus it has a few built in EQ settings. However the first EQ setting is the only one I recommend.
FiiO A1 Silver Portable Headphone Amp A1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ghtcVeJKOUxPx
https://smile.amazon.com/Fiio-A1-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492202091&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=headphone+amp
I'd do that one, personally. USB powered so you don't have to think about voltage or plug adapters or anything. (Not that I know what voltage is coming out of your wall sockets, or what your wall sockets look like.)
I believe LP60 will come with the proper adapters to get from its own RCA cables to the mini input that this headphone amp requires.
The one you linked would work, certainly, but you probably don't really need four headphone outputs.
You can actually use a headphone amp in reverse to amplify the microphone's audio signal before it enters your PC:
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-A1-Silver-Portable-Headphone/dp/B01CPUVPEM/
I'm not sure what headphones you're trying to drive. If they are inexpensive headphones, they may not be efficient and will require a lot of power to get the volume up. With my headphones, pushing 50-55 is loud enough to not be comfortable for more than a song or two at most. Anything higher than that my ears start to bleed. Well, maybe not bleed, but it's not comfortable. My typical listening volume at work for the day is typically around 15, maybe 20 if I'm trying to drown out some outside noise.
If they are cheaper headphones, you may want to pick up a portable amp (amazon.com). If they are a good headphone, what is the resistance of the headphones along with make and model?
Holy shit, drop everything you're doing and get yourself some decent cans NOW. I'd recommend these two references to help you find something good:
Head-Fi.org Buying Guide | /r/headphones Purchase Assistant
Or if you're lazy, just pick something from this list.
I'd also highly recommend a headphone amp in order to get the most out of your cans, especially if you plan on spending more than $100 on them and/or don't have a good sound card with an amp built-in.
Oh sorry, I meant to link the E3 model.
Edit: I received this Fiio DAC with my m50s and it does admirably as well. Creative can be expensive and Fiio has good options as well.
I bought the Creative one for my wife and I when on plane rides and I like the clip it has for when I'm using PSVR.
The headphone amp that is built into these DAC HATs is just a $20-$30 amplifier. These are not $100 amplifiers that you are buying in a $50 DAC HAT.
So why not buy a $20-$30 headphone amplifier?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CPUVPEM/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bwErZ_c_x_1_w
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ANENCB6/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bwErZ_c_x_7_w
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M8NVFS/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bwErZ_c_x_3_w
http://www.guitarcenter.com/Behringer/Micromon-MA400-Headphone-Amplifier.gc
http://lifehacker.com/five-best-portable-headphone-amplifiers-1722800379
Here are links to the core components of my audiophile sound setup:
AudioQuest Dragonfly DAC v1.5 - ~$100
Sennheiser HD 600 open back headphones - ~$330
USB 2.0 active repeater extension cable - ~$10 -- will test shorter cable when it arrives
Is THIS the one you are talking about? Or are there any older versions of the black one, considering the red one is 20€ more expensive in germany.
the schiit fulla2 is $99 but does a lot for that price point. http://www.schiit.com/products/fulla-2
it can be used on your computer as a DAC & Amp for headphones, it can be just a DAC/preamp for powered speakers or just another headphone amp too. even has a 2nd usb input for power if your phone/tablet/whatever is low powered USB.
i havent used one yet, but a lot of great reviews out there about it. i actually just ordered one a few minutes ago though, so can finally get personal recommendation or not.
in general there are a lot of options around/in your $70 price range too.
a simple one from Cambridge for $75, comes in several colors too.
https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-Headphone-Titanium/dp/B015JESWQA/ref=pd_sbs_23_26
this is one that has been around awhile and is very popular. it is $99 but
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Dragonfly-Black-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=pd_sbs_23_1
the FiiO e10k is another good option at $75. this version comes with some astell & kern/final audio in ears for $80. prob worth the extra $5 for those.
https://smile.amazon.com/Portable-Desktop-Headphone-ICP-AT1000-Headphones/dp/B076DVBNRP/ref=sr_1_12
another fiio, the Q1 which is a bit smaller than the e10k
https://smile.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-USB-DAC-Amplifier/dp/B0157DKAU4/ref=sr_1_9
this is a tube amp/dac/preamp. should be a bit "warmer" of a sound signature than other usb dac/amps. ive never used tubes (need to get one someday to see for myself...). you can also swap the tubes out for other ones to try for different sound signatures. again, never used tube amps but that is supposed to be part of the appeal i think.
https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Amplifier-Preamplifier-Integrated-Audio/dp/B0774669ND/ref=pd_sbs_23_46
the m50x are great all around headphones that are easy to power, so that makes it much easier to find something that fits your budget/needs.
I can't get anything to show up in iFile or Filza. I managed to install CameraConnector on my iOS 10.2 iPhone 6P but the preference bundle is unable to be opened within settings, it needs to be updated.
I have this Samsung USB 3.0 flash drive I just got last week. Plugging it into the CCK directly gives the error message that the devices requires too much power and is incompatible.
For whatever reason, if you use this USB splitter plugged into the CCK and then plug your flash drive into that, it allows you to access the drive...kind of. Your iPhone will automatically launch the Photos app to a tab called Import but nothing will show up if you don't have any photos/videos in a folder called DCIM. I was able to import pictures and videos from the flash drive after I put them within a folder on the drive.
The catch is that you can only import files from the drive in Photos app, you can't watch or view them from the drive. You can only see the thumbnails. And nothing in iFile or Filza works any more. I used the tweak Mounted and also CameraConnector and I got nothing.
Also, I then formatted the drive to HFS+ or whatever and put a video on the drive. My phone reboots after about 10 seconds after plugging it in. This has happened twice now.
PS, this Digital/Analog Converter works for me as long as I have a separate power source for the DAC using another USB splitter that splits the power and data into two separate cables.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
This
+
That
AudioQuest DragonFly Black
At $99, it's a little more expensive than what you listed, but it will do everything you want. You can get a USB C adapter to use for your phone.
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RGH4GCFHBDOK&keywords=audioquest+dragonfly+black&qid=1554689099&s=electronics&sprefix=audioquest+%2Celectronics%2C147&sr=1-3
If you don't mind spending some money this is what I would suggest, this will potentially clean up your audio signal and provide more power to your HD598's. AudioQuest - DragonFly Black USB DAC/Headphone Amplifier
by Audioquest
Link: https://amzn.com/B01DP5JHHI
Werewolves Within and Rush of Blood are must have games! you should consider having a protection case for the headseat also, this one is pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/POWER-Storage-Case-PSVR-PlayStation-4/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485362692&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=psvr+case
Enjoy!
I'm surprised that it's claiming to be able to hold the PS4 Pro AND the PSVR headset, because I have a huge backpack for my travel setup and I still have to carry the PS4 Pro separately because it is so monstrous-big. And because I'm packing an entire boom microphone stand.
If you're going to backpack your headset, let me recommend that you also buy a hard case for the headset itself. The PowerA one can pretty much squeeze wherever the headset itself can and you won't have to worry about drop damage.
I did it once...I took it with me for 2 weeks traveling from US to Japan and then Thailand then come back to US again and it was fine.
I recommend you should have a nice hard case for headset itself (I own this one PowerA Storage Case for PSVR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_URP6CbTJEVMGK).
Then you should put everything in hard case carry-on take it with you during on flight. It’s pretty tight in carry-on bag but all controllers (I took Aim controller with me too) is fine also the headset is already in hard case bag...a little squeeze inside can not break your PSVR headset. It’s still working great after travel no any problem.
A lot of us (judging from previous posts) have this Power A case that is sturdy, compact and on sale for $9.99 (from $39.99, I got mine from a local Best Buy for about the same price though it's $10.99 there now). I leave everything connected and put the headset in the case, lowering the top but not closing the zipper, but you could securely close it if needed.
https://www.amazon.com/POWER-Storage-Case-PSVR-PlayStation-4/dp/B01LB4KHF6
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/powera-storage-case-for-playstation-vr-black/5464800.p?skuId=5464800
I got my Frankenquest to fit into this.
PowerA Storage Case for PSVR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ko6ODbJXVV36C
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6
https://www.amazon.com/POWER-Storage-Case-PSVR-PlayStation-4/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=pd_sbs_63_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=1QZ0G458RNJKNEQR9Y3S
or
https://www.amazon.com/Industries-PlayStation-Headset-Accessories-Deluxe-Carrying/dp/B01LB4KJ90
You’ll probably also want to buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6
And make sure to put your PSVR in it when you finish a session. :)
oh yes, my friend. we've come full circle. but we're innovating and being courageous, and that's what's important.
https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-AirPods-PENDING-Connector-Airpods/dp/B01LVZ4SXN
There's a variety of third party sellers. I also would not be surprised if Apple sold a version that was, because of its Apple branding, like 200% more expensive and about as durable as their god awful first part lightning cables.
Nobody said it was an apple produced product. ..so ironic yes...#reading
They do exist though
Spigen RA100 Designed for AirPods Strap Compatible with Apple Airpods 1 & 2 - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZ4SXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CFwDDbQK26K6F
It was made. This is the first link from Google.
https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-AirPods-Pending-Connector-Airpods/dp/B01LVZ4SXN
https://www.amazon.com.au/White-Connector-Exclusive-AirPods-000EM20861/dp/B01LVZ4SXN
Problem Solved
It is.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LVZ4SXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zBnRDb3291YEH
Sounds like you have a headset port. A headset port requires only one line-in to handle both audio and the microphone. Easy to get around though! All you need to a headset port splitter, very cheap and I believe most big retailers carry some form of them. Here's an example. There's also a chance that the back of your PC has two separate ports for your headset.
Edit: More info.
Yeah as a few others have said, you can get something like this and you should be just fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536980637&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=%223.5mm+headset+splitter%22
Most over ears are going to be dissapointing at that price point, that is if they survive a week without breaking so id recommend getting some iems with an inline mic. The KZ ZSX, ZSN Pro or anything else really should be okay with a splitter for your laptop.
With the KZs though if the wire ever dies on you you could just get a replacement
Headset Splitter Cable for PC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8G1U0C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the exact one I bought. You plug your headphones into one end, and then plug the other end into their respective headphone and mic ports on your pc.
What kind of plugs do the headsets you're trying to use have on them? Some will use two TRS plugs, one for the speakers, one for the mic. Some will use a single TRRS plug for both the speakers and the mic.
There's a really good chance that your desktop PC only has TRS jacks and not TRRS, and if you plug a headset with a TRRS plug into a TRS jack, you'll usually get the behavior you've described. If that's the case here, you could use something like this to split your TRRS plug into two TRS plugs, but you might run into issues, because there are a couple different ways the TRRS plug on your headset might be wired.
Only drawback is that you won't be able to hear other people. If you want that too, get one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C/
Yes, I unplugged the headphone jack from the USB soundcard. The cable splitter needed is something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7FX0DbCHX1J9X
I also used a headphone extension cable, but if you go that route you need to make sure the connector is a four pole type, and not three pole.
I have this one: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M8G1U0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Been working for over a year no problem.
You need something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Techlink-WiresNX-Toslink-Optical-Adaptor/dp/B001C5R98S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1317958032&amp;sr=8-4 which will plug into the black jack on your sound card. Then just get a standard optical toslink cable ( http://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Frustration-Free-Packaging/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_tr_sr_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1317958103&amp;sr=8-1 ), put that adapter onto it and plug the other end into the z-5500's optical port. This is how my laptop works, the optical is built into the headphone jack and is activated when i choose the digital option in the control panel. You can usually see the red light coming out of the jack when the digital is activated.
The high gain is really only necessary if you have insanely high impedance, but the normal gain should be fine for the 650s. The balanced triodes means that each of the triodes in the tube will have the same gain through the connection. Could be nice assurance if you want to shell another $2. Low noise and microphonics is nice to have as well.
I do use that kind of a cable, but mostly because adding USB costs money on the Bifrost than just accepting with optical, and a much cheaper one (digital is digital) here. But if you're connecting out of your MBP, you'll need a mini-TOSLINK to regular optical cable (the headphone jack is an optical combo port), like this.
I'm not sure what price range you're looking for, but the plantronics rig headset may be solid for what you're looking for. You'll need to buy a digital optical cable as well to hook it up to the ps4 audio, but it allows for selection of one or both audio sources and dynamic volume controls for both audio sources.
Trailer
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GS2AG_6jciw
http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-Stereo-Gaming-Headset-Xbox-360/dp/B00EV00MZ8
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW
Edit: Thanks for the gold!!
If you have the PS3 AV cables I think you can get away with just using a physical adapter. If not, you can use a DAC to decode the optical audio output into a usable analog stereo signal. This is the cheapest standalone DAC I know of: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B005PWPUW6
You would need an optical cable as well: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_text_y
Note that this has somewhat limited use though. If you're looking to add more components to your system you may want to look at an HDMI audio extractor instead with an HDMI switcher. The best option is an AV receiver but you would need to by home theater speakers as well which is a much bigger overall investment.
RIG Platronics: http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-Stereo-Gaming-Headset-Xbox-360/dp/B00EV00MZ8
And you'll need this with it: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=pd_sim_vg_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=02BYXD91QW3XAD09GH5X
Just got em for Christmas. Too bad I can't tell you how voice chat sounds on em...
It sounds, from the symptoms, that there's an issue with your X1 encoding the audio and passing it on to the TV via HDMI.
I'd try swapping HDMI cables to eliminate that possibility, since that's the easiest/cheapest thing to check.
If no luck, then you'll need to run a Fiber Optics from X1 to Soundbar and bypass the TV. This is more than likely the point of failure.
If it works, then the problem was probably the X1 -HDMI- TV region. Most likely some issue with the X1 audio encoding for HDMI.
[Here you can get a 10' Fiber Optic cable for $8](
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418154939&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Fiber+Optic+Cable)
Then you can try something like this. Optical audio is a digital audio format that uses a fiber optic cable to carry the audio signal. This type of device will split the audio stream off from the incoming HDMI, and output it through the optical cable, which you can then plug into the SPDIF/optical input in your projector.
This is an example of an optical audio cable that you would need.
An optical cable and a RCA cable. Buy whatever length you need, I guessed 6ft for each.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372815510&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=optical+cable
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-29115-Meters-Velocity-Digital/dp/B0002J2B8I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372815232&amp;sr=1-1
Go to Amazon. 1
Try this but it doesn't come with a TOSLINK cable so that's extra but has both RCA and 3.5mm
http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-Digital-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00KCRYIWM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426758151&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=digital+audio+converter
Here's the TOSLINK cable you'd need to connect that DAC to the Xbox One.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002MQGRM?pc_redir=1404305886&amp;robot_redir=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TH7GSW?pc_redir=1404305795&amp;robot_redir=1
I use HDMI to DVI as well. The only things you would need are a Digital Optical Audio Cable, to run from the Xbox to the converter & depending on what type of speakers you have, some sort of RCA cable adapter.
Amazon or newegg!
Edit: link
http://amzn.com/B001TH7GSW
Shouldn't need to go that far. Most temp controllers out there have their own temp probes that dangle inside the keezer, and the keezer is plugged into the temp controller. This allows the temp controller to decided when to cycle the keezer on and off. I have one of these and it works great. Easy to set up too!
Here is another alternative. Usually used to turn a freezer into a kegerator, it needs to be opened and set to heat mode but otherwise is a good sous vide controller as well. Only about $75.
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393776848&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=johnson+controls+a419
This is the project I'm completing this weekend
Just FYI, a lot of the controls that are listed on the web sites are either out of production, or just not available. After trying to chase down a few products that are still listed on websites but not available, I found these two essentials to be the best value with rock-solid reputations:
Temp Control
Humidity Control
I called about a dozen hydroponics stores looking for the Titan EOS2, but it's discontinued and every place that had them in stock no longer does. The LTL is comparable, and the folks who make it are reputable.
The humidifier that everyone pretty much agrees on is this guy
Yes, if you look in the back right of the collar on the second to last picture with the lid open, you can see where I'm running the probe of my temperature control unit. The hole it's running through is sealed with the same silicone sealant I'm using to fix the collar to the base of the freezer.
I've got the digital control mounted on the right side outside of my freezer, and the basic idea is I set the internal temperature I want the unit's probe to pick up inside the freezer, and it only turns on the freezer when it needs to in order to maintain that temperature. The freezer is plugged into the temperature control unit, and then the unit into the wall so it can bypass the AC.
Craigslist freezer - we chose upright for vertical space. Chest freezer might work - but you would have to figure out how to hang in it.
Temperature controller - there are lots of options. This one is the Johnson 419. You plug it into the wall then plug the freezer into the female lead. It cycles the freezer on and off at the set temperature. There are cheaper options - but I had this one laying around. I'll link some suggestions below.
The fan is a computer fan with speed switch. I wired it to an old 12v wall wort I had laying around in the parts bin.
Meat hooks are just stainless hooks - again from amazon.
Temp controllers:
Johnson - https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=pd_sim_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=SG7X9CB5Z0VYY8RM7EVB
If you're comfortable with electricity:
https://www.amazon.com/Lerway-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00BMLCGF8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481133568&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=temperature+control
Best deal:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Fermentation/dp/B015E2UFGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481133568&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=temperature+control
Meat hooks:
https://www.amazon.com/Meat-Hooks-Inch-Pack-Pieces/dp/B0195CE08Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481133886&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=meat+hooks
Fan:
https://www.amazon.com/Antec-TriCool-DBB-Cooling-3-Speed/dp/B00066ISES/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481133824&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=speed+fan+computer
after reading through this thread, a couple people referenced the Johnson control units.
seems fairly simple to regulate the fridges temp this way.
Would the size matter if you used an external thermostat like this?
Edit: I can't copy right. Also, upon further investigation of the coolbot (which at first glance appeard to be just a how to for using a/c for refrig) it does the same thing only more.
I am also a confused individual, and hope you wouldn't mind answering a question/give a little more info.
I've been looking into getting a temp controller. I plan on either converting a large chest freezer, or picking up a fridge or something similar off craigslist into a fermentation chamber. I had seen this mentioned previously. From what I understand, the freezer plugs into the thermometer (or the thermometer controls the fridge somehow) and the temp probe turns it off and on according to which temperature you set.
does the STC-1000 do the same thing? It looks as if you need to rewire a portion of the fridge to the new controller. Which sounds difficult at first, but does not look much more complicated than a thermostat used in houses. Could a dummy such as myself do it?
5 kegs is a lot, I think you'll need a 7+ cubic foot freezer for that, but I'm not sure. This thread should help you figure that out though.
> How do people keep it from freezing the beer?
Temperature control. You can buy a Ranco or Johnson Controls temperature controller. You can also get away with it for free if you have some patience by messing with the internal thermostat.
> When you keg do you still need to add priming sugar? or is the co2 there for the "force carbonate"? or are those two different processes?
You can still use priming sugar if you really want, but there's no reason to, other than (I guess) saving some CO2.
Force carbing is when you jack up the pressure real high for a few days, then lower to serving pressure. It's a way to quickly carb up your brew if you are on a tight timetable for some reason.
The normal way to do it would be to set your keg to a certain pressure, and wait a week to 10 days. Over time, the CO2 will normalize inside the keg and will be absorbed into the beer so its ready to serve.
Looks like an upgraded version of a Jetboil. Nice, I guess if you didn't already have a stove/container system. For 6 bucks you could get a Pocket rocket knock-off. That and a piece of aluminum foil for a wind screen, and while not as efficient, it would get the job done a LOT cheaper.
7 bucks -- I know a few people that grabbed this and it works fine
Woo! Added a while back too!
Bam! $6.78!! :D
It'd be super useful for hiking, too!
Edit: Hilariously, I was browsing through amazon's suggestions for me and found this just before I saw this contest! XD
EDIT AGAIN: Ooh poop, added before today?? In that case, I've got this tea on my Silly Fun Wishlist that's $6.80! :D
http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition-silvery/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_7?s=outdoor-recreation&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406595611&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=camping+butane+stove
a $5 can of butane and bring a pot.
This is the one that I bought. Works very well...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DObyub0RXA4HK
It takes like a month to ship though because it comes from China....or Mars.
It's one of these
It took about 3 weeks shipping, and I had to pick it up from the post office, but at that price it's pretty unbeatable.
I can't use this much camping on oahu, but this would be great for a camping trip to either Washington or Oregon!
It also has free shipping! I already have a mess kit, and the butane can be obtained at walmart, but I havnt seen such a great price on a camp stove. The reviews make it seem awesome!
Someone else posted this as well, but I also had this on my list.
Story time: On one of our first dates my then boyfriend, now husband, took me hiking on a trail near his house. It's a pretty intense one where people have died getting very lost. We had hiked it before and gotten a little confused and had to climb a very sketchy crumbling rocky hillside and I was concerned we'd get lost again.
I was reassured that he had GPS and we'd be fine and we'd only be out a short while. Well, my husband had no water, and I had a half liter bottle. We started out and it was pretty easy, there are tons of streams in the area but there is a risk of leptospirosis from pigs, so obviously we didn't drink. Needless to say we got lost, his so-called GPS wa his cell phone and there was no reception, we were lost for three hours. He landed up drinking the majority of my water since he sweats a lot, had none and is nearly double my weight.
I was so thirsty in the way back, those crystal clean fast moving waters looked tempting, but I was no fool. That life-straw would have been such a godsend on that hike of lost crazy. We eventually got back drank tons of water, and my husband vowed we'd never go hiking there again unless we had real supplies.
Edit: it's also neat that I have links to other great camp supplies!
Anything MSR cooking is aweaome, and then for a cheap pocket stove, check this out:
http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1344822829&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=pocket+stove
It's a great great value. If you buy that and the MSR skillet with a gas canister, you're good to go for a while.
Stove: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U8CP88/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Thing is great, never let me down.
It is a Fiio e17 Dac and Fiio e09k.
Sorry for the sloppy desk and poor quality picture.
DT 990's
FIIO E17
AntLion mod mic
I purchased these in August 2014. They are both still like new in box condition. I recently upgraded my desktop to utilize TRS/ XLR because the RCA connections created a static background with my powered speaker while playing games. I never had any issues while listening to music or watching videos. If you don't use a powered speaker, or if you don't play games through speakers, this is an awesome DAC/ AMP pair.
I did use the E17 in my car for about a year to act as a signal amplifier to my radio input. But I always kept it in the case so it doesn't have any scratches. They look brand new. The only issue I would mention is that the LCD screen does show a "burn in" because I have used it almost every day and so the text "USB IN" is visible on the screen. If you don't understand what I mean by LCD Burn In just ask and I will try to get a picture of it.
I'm having trouble finding the specs on FiiO's website, so I'm including these Amazon links for reference. When I get off work I'll try to do a little more digging.
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510938798&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=FiiO+E17&amp;dpID=41txNfEtYYL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510938798&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=FiiO+E17&amp;dpID=41CpZWsDoyL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
I paid $248 for the pair of these, and I'm firm with my $150 price. Shipping will be $10 USPS Priority Medium Flate Rate. Paypal preferred, but I'll accept a check. They will ship once the check clears, which takes about 3-5 days.
I realize I'm new here, so I'm happy to use a middle man if that's a thing on this subreddit. I've done a few trades in both r/Starcitizen_trades and r/pkmntcgtrades
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starcitizen_trades/comments/6qummw/psa_confirmed_trades_thread_august_2017/dmdh1yz/?context=3
https://www.reddit.com/r/pkmntcgreferences/comments/4yxrum/supremegunmans_reference_thread/
Any questions I'll try to get to after work.
Thanks
Not OP, but the Fiio E17 DAC/amp combo would work well with those headphones.
alright, ill check them out. What about an amp, any recommendations for that? Amazon recommends this
alternatively there are dac/amp combos that go for the same price as the magni (or less) that plug into the usb.
Monoprice Desktop Amp
Fiio e07k
Fiio e17
Fiio e10k
FiiO e17 pushing V-Moda Crossfade LP's
I would call it a day with modi/magni dac/amp combo. There are tons out there I haven't tried, but this combo will take care of your needs with the akgs and probably through another upgrade if you choose to do that
Depends on how portable you want or need to be, however. Something like a fiio e18/17/07 might be enough
http://www.amazon.com/E17-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW
Amazon U.S for an extra 20 bucks but I paid 4 bucks for prime shipping which is 1 day. I tried j&r music and they showed in stock . I paid and everything get an email a week after and say out of stock. I'm like fine whatever you should have said that. Then I try mp4nation and I pay an extra 18 bucks for fast shipping and I get a email 5 days later and also out of stock. I raged hard and complained. Then while raging check Amazon which did not have it before now has it at 20$ extra and I say F it and get it.
Link to Amazon
I was able to plug up my FiiO E17 USB DAC as well. I get the feeling anything that is Class Compliant(conforms to standards and no driver is necessary) is going to have good chances of working.
You want portable or is this just at home?
If you're only at home O2/ODAC combo or the Magni/Modi combo.
Magni: http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=0&amp;products_id=13
Modi :http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=0&amp;products_id=14
O2 : http://www.jdslabs.com/item.php?fetchitem=o2full
ODAC (this is the combo and the odac by itself) http://www.jdslabs.com/storecat.php?fetchcat=5
If you want to be on the go as well at home I would say the E17/E09k combo. This way you can take the E17 on the go but dock it at home.
E17 : http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1368754570&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=e17
E09k : http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1368754606&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=e17
If you want to do away with a pricier DAC a behringer uca202 is an easy substitute.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1368754731&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=uca202
Edit - Links
Well the higher the impedance the harder to drive the headphones, thats the basics of it. In DT990s case the 600ohm is the best sounding one, but not by much. The DT990 250ohm premium is almost as good. The DT990 32ohms is also pretty good. You will only be able to tell the differences when listening to all three of them at the same time. But i think the one you were considering must have been the Pro 250ohm model, which is quite a bit different compared to its premium counterparts. It is more uncomfortable, has a smaller soundstage with muddier bass. It is also the cheapest at 200$. If I were you I'd go with the Premium 250ohm or 32ohm models. They both cost around 300$ new and run around 200$-250$ used(on Amazon via Amazon warehouse). If you get the 32ohm model you CAN skip getting an amp, as it wont be necessary, it will certainly improve the sound but wont be necessary. With the 250ohm premium an amp becomes a necessity. If you're going with a brand new 250Ohm premium then just get that along with a AMP+DAC like the E17 or if you want to go cheaper get the E11(it is the same amp as the E17 but without a DAC). You can skip getting a E9 as it wont give as much benefits and would unnecessarily push you overbudget. This should cost you about 440$ if you buy from Amazon(New DT990 Premium 250ohm + Fiio E17 or E11, with the E11 you'll be in budget but will loose on getting a DAC. Or you can get a used DT990 Premium 250 ohm(check out the 4th listing that lists it as like new, if Amazon says it is like new it means it will impossible to differentiate it from a brand new one) with a E17 to stay within budget
I'm using a fiio e17 portable amp/dac combo with my dt 990 250 ohms. It's the only dac/amp I have used, but I have zero complaints, it works great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0070UFMOW
If you don't care about looks, you can try this:
http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393784016&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=headphone+headband
34 Suggestions :Creative Aurvana Live New is outside of your budget but there's some used (Like New) on Amazon that's pretty close to $50. They say over-ear but it might be on-ear if you have large ears.
Panasonic HTF600 Warm and bassy. Price has been high on these for some reason. I bought these over the summer for under $30. Still a good buy at $40.
Monoprice 8032 All about the mids, decent bass. Headband got uncomfortable after extended use. Might need to invest in a headband like this
Limitless Creations HP3BK Forgot about these, $40. Rec'd by /u/keanex.
I would recommend the Focuspads, I spent money and time on getting Hifiman Velours and they were very disappointing (too stiff).
Do not get the FocusPadsA variant, just FocusPads which are better quality.
Headband replacement here, pretty sure ebay has them since you're in NZ.
Thanks for the reply.
I have narrowed my searches down to 3 headbands.
Out of all the 3, I think I like the Mayflower one the most. It looks really comfortable.
here you go bro
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00862522A/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418109033&amp;sr=1&amp;keywords=headband
I have both the headphones but I prefer the sr80is more for the sound stage and the sound signature. The bass is controlled, the mids upfront, and the highs bright but not harsh. These are a little bit uncomfortable when I first got them, you can bend the band out a little and you can get cushions for the band if you want. These pair are lighter on the head compared to the m50s
The m50's highs sound harsh to me, the mids a bit recessed and the bass a bit boomy. For comfort I replaced the stock m50 pads with velour pads. These pair are a little heavy on the head and the clamp on them is pretty tight but will loosen and be more comfortable with use.
What it really comes down to is if you want the headphones to be open back or closed depending on your needs. Also your preferred sound signature.
I listen to mostly rock, jazz, alternative, indie and some classical if that helps any.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00862522A/ref=dra_a_rv_ff_fx_it_P2000_1000
I would take them apart and take the cushion off first.
[Beyerdynamic headband] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00862522A)
I experienced the exact same thing.
The one I use I got off amazon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Although that one specifically doesn't seem to be in stock. There are several similar ones listed. I paid about ~$25 for it, so I would imagine you can find something similar.
It makes a huge difference for me.... I can wear them for hours at a time and not even notice I have them on.
I just got the 8323's this weekend. I really like them so far, but as I have kind of a huge head, the headband is a bit painful over time. I found this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8), which is said on head-fi to greatly improve comfort.
So far, the sound is great, the price is better, and I'm totally satisfied. I also listen to a wide range of music, and so far, super satisfied.
Link to head-fi's thread on 8323 comfort: http://www.head-fi.org/t/617416/extra-comfort-on-monoprice-8323
what? isn't that opposite of what hes looking for?
I think hes looking for this
They really should have included this instead:.
Cable Adapter Female 1/4" 6.3mm to Male 1/8" 3.5mm Plug
Sennheiser 1/4" to 1/8" adapter. This is a flexible one instead of the straight one that comes in the box.
Yeah you can't use the 6.3 to 3.5mm adaptor on it because the cable and connector is huge/heavy and you'll break the headphone jack of whatever u plug it into. If you want to use the x00 with a 3.5mm jack I suggest getting one of these.
If you are going from 1/4" male to 3.5mm male, we normally recommend the Sennheiser or Grado style adapter, that have a small amount of cable on them. These have the female plug for the 1/4" on one end, and the male 3.5mm on the other.
I personally use the much less expensive Hosa adapter, of the same style.
But, get something more like this with a wire than something like this which is solid. It'll put less strain on whatever port you plug it in.
Those short metal adapters are a terrible idea. One yank and you will have a first-hand lesson of the physics of levers. Sennheiser sells an adapter that should do nicely.
While /u/Joosyosrs point might be true too, I mostly hate it because it's really really fat and there's no extra length to the connector. So as a result, it won't fit into a lot of 3.5mm sockets. For example, it won't fit in my phone with a case on, and when I used to use a UCA202 as a DAC/amp, it couldn't plug into that either. It's also stupid to have it as one giant adapter rather than something like this one that Sennheiser makes because now you have a massive chain of big plugs hanging straight out of the socket.
I can't speak for him but this adapter is great:
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543328496&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=senheiser+3.5mm+to
A little expensive, I know, but quality...
https://smile.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y?sa-no-redirect=1
Get one of these instead http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm-3-5mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y
Search for 6.3mm Female to 3.5mm Male adapter. Here are two links.
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm-3-5mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y
http://www.amazon.in/6-3mm-Female-3-5mm-Stereo-Converter/dp/B00D88Q0EG
This Sennheiser one is good, it's the one that comes with the HD650.
What I did is I disabled all the playback options except my DAC and my speakers, then I have my DAC (SoundBlaster E1 $30 when on sale at Fry's, great sound for the price) set as my default playback device. Whenever I flip the switch on the DAC off, it goes to the only other playback option, my speakers. Takes about half a second to go back and forth and it is super easy, plus the DAC really improved the sound quality I was getting. Any DAC with an on/off switch works with this method, and if you have one you really like without an on/off switch, you are only slightly inconvenienced in that you just pull out the mini usb plug on the back whenever you want to switch to speakers. I also like having a physical button rather than a software button on my computer because this way I can make absolutely certain with 100% reliability that the sound I want is coming from where I want it without having to double check that the software is working.
The Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pros have great bass response, while the Sennheiser HD598's aren't as punchy in the bass. That being said, the DT770's present a bit more in the high-end frequencies, and some might find that unbalanced.
The HD598's are certainly more balanced in their presentation. The HD558's are the cheapest option, but present great value for somebody looking for a bit more bass than the HD598's, but less than the DT770's.
Any of these headphones paired with a proper headphone amplifier will provide a good listening experience, but different. While both Sennheiser's are open-back and will breath more to provide a wider sound stage, the Beyerdynamics are closed back and will provide a more narrow sound stage, but provide more bass response.
Oops. I meant optical audio. sorry about that. It looks like this. its pretty much a fiber optic cable for audio.
The red and white wires are only an input, so if you had a dvd player or game console, you could plug the audio cables from them into the tv and the sound would come out of the tv speakers, it does not go the other direction. The digital audio out slot uses a digital audio cable (like [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW) that goes from the tv to the receiver and sends all tv sounds to the receiver. There should be an option in the menu of the tv to switch audio to use the digital out so that it will work properly.
hate to be such a noob, but could you link me to an optical cable that would work?
If you are talkinb about this the Aune t1 does not have an optical in like that. It only has USB and R+W inputs
I think i have it narrowed down to an issue with the particular rig, my work computer does not appear to have the problem in the first 5 minutes of testing at least
Edit: checked out the dac you are talking about and i see that it does have an optical in :( looks like im shopping for a new dac
You can still do that with a receiver....just output the sound from the tv to the receiver with an optical toslink cable.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413465085&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optical+audio
I had my X11s set up using the following method and it worked. I had to buy the following things:
Xbox One Headset adapter
Optical to RCA converter
Optical Cable
You'll plug one end of your optical cable into your Xbox One and the other end into the Optical port on the Converter. Then, plug your red and white RCA connectors on your X11s into the Red and White jacks on the Converter (you now have game audio).
For chat, there should be a 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter that comes with the XB1 headset adapter. Use that.
This is how I used my X11s when the adapter first game out.
Another possibility I just thought of while typing this up is using something like a PC-headset to Smartphone Adapter. In theory this should work, but I have not tested it so i cannot guarantee it.
In this scenario, you'd simply take the Pink and Green 3.5mm connectors on the X11s and plug them directly into Mic and Speaker Jacks and then plug that adapter into your controller.
Hope this helps.
Hi.
Would this do?
yes, you'll need a toslink cable.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW
Here is the desktop version of your link
If I were you, I would use the old PC to run XBMC to play all your local files, Chromecast to play Netflix, and PS3 for blu-rays. To setup your old computer just grab a DVI-to-HDMI adapter for your 8800GT and use a toslink cable for 5.1 audio assuming this is your motherboard. If you do not have a toslink port then grab one of these to get audio, just know it'll only be 2.0. If you upgraded your graphics card to a 6450 you'd get HD audio and video through HDMI.
It depends on your speakers. Do they have an optical input? If so, you probably want to get one like this... But if it just uses a headphone type of connection, you may need more adapters and cables as the AppleTV you have can only do digital output.
Most TVs should have Optical or Aux out, and then you would use a L7 to give a line out connection to your amp.
What cords do I need to purchase along with this ?
Edit:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW/ref=lh_ni_t_mi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-29115-Meters-Velocity-Digital/dp/B0002J2B8I/ref=lh_ni_t_mi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
These work ?
I guess I need to read more about the quality difference between S/PDIF and USB, maybe there is none. If so, then I'd be fine with picking up one of these. This would do the trick, yeah?
One of these for instance.
You can use an optical tos cable connected to an optical to RCA adapter then to an RCA to 1/8th cable and a 1/8th coupler if necessary. I do exactly this in my bedroom. Works great and the sound still comes from the tv too which is great too.
This is basically what I have. I kept an eye out on Craigslist until I found a good deal on one (searching for "merchandiser" worked well), and I interrupted the internal power to the compressor with one of these, and I re-wired it to accept an LED strip in lieu of the fluorescent system it came with. I've been really happy with it.
Look into getting a Johnson Temp Control Unit, it will ensure it stays at the precise temp.
I've heard good things about this temperature controller What do you use?
The Johnson Controls a419 was what I bought. It has served me well for a couple of years. This was NOT after extensive research, so, listen to all the other opinions you get.
Wouldn't a temperature controller be easier?
Could you use something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt
Inserting the probe in the meat to cycle the crockpot on and off for you?
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt
If you want to go higher. Check what the temperature really is though when you set it to the highest setting.
I keep my wineador at 64F and 62% humidity, it does fluctuate a bit though.
If you decided that you don't want to do the wiring yourself with the STC-1000 you could grab one of these. Very simple plug and play temperature control. I used one for my keezer and I am quite happy with it.
That will work, but make sure you put it in an enclosure of some sort in case the wires come out of the screw terminals or wire nuts.
The neutral wire isn't switched so there is only one screw terminal for it, but don't be tempted to jam both nuetral wires into it. Put one wire into the screw terminal and use a wire nut to connect two wires to that.
A simplier but costlier way to do it would be to get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00368D6JA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1415822758&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
Johnson digital. So far I love it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00368D6JA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02
This what I am doing, I just got my freezer last week. I got this from MW: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brew-logic-triple-tap-draft-system-with-3-way-gas-manifold.html. I hope to start building my keezer this winter. The only think I would do different is that I get the used CO2 tank and not the new one. I'm finding it very hard to get it refills, seems most only do trades.
edit: I am also using this temp regulator http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00368D6JA/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B0002EAL58&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=07ZYDPS8F5XM0N96Q1Q9
post w/description and pics for reference
amazon
I do it. I use this temp controller to regulate. If I need to warm it up I use a ferm-wrap heater wrapped in a towel for a bit. You'll be surprised how long a keezer can hold a warm temp. No problems so far.
Does anyone have this Johnson's Digital Control Thermostat and if so, have you made the probe waterproof somehow? I bought it for its simplicity as I don't trust my wiring skills, bummed to be reading that the probe cant simply be dipped in a cup of water for stabilizing, according to the Q&A's on Amazon's page.
I use a fridge with a $65 temp controller which can be found here. Doesn't get any simpler than that.
I love cheap-but-works. We use this 3.9 oz ultra-cheapo from Amazon. Yes, you do need canisters, but it works perfectly. For high altitudes obviously the correct fuel is an issue, as is recycling the cans. Not a "fashionable" choice. https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_11?s=outdoor-recreation&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468612734&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=backpacking+stove
Oh right, well, in case you haven't actually done an overnighter, just expect some bumps, especially if you haven't encountered adverse conditions, say overnight in the rain, or whatever. I guess that's part of the fun.
I have been using an MSR pocket rocket and I like it a lot. As long as it's not super cold where you are, it should work fine. If you want to shed weight, you can try an alcohol stove. I can't speak to it's effectiveness yet, but I'm experimenting with a DIY "super cat" stove on my next trip. But if having hot food is vital to the enjoyment of your trip, you may want to stick with something fool proof like the pocket rocket on your first few multiday trips. If you want to save a few bucks you might try this $6 pocket rocket knock off. http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition-silvery/dp/B004U8CP88/
For water filtration, I bring a sawyer squeeze and aqua mira drops as a backup. Just make sure if you go somewhere where it's freezing, to keep the filter on you to keep it warm. If I was buying something today, I'd get the sawyer mini. Both are 0.1 micron, have a fantastic life span and are easy to operate.
I hike without a beacon but I don't get too far out there either. Just be sure to let someone you trust know when and where you're leaving and when and where you're getting back, and any other details about your trip that you may be able to provide. You probably already know this. Just get out there and see how it goes.
Actually, Smokey the Bear is what caused the situation in the West in the first place. The western North American environment is SUPPOSED to burn. It has evolved that way for centuries. Then humans came along and decided "hey, this looks pretty" and started building homes there and got mad when they kept burning down. So we instituted fire protection policies that put out those fires asap and allowed the fuel that they burned up to pile up instead....for 100 years. 100 years worth of fire fuel that SHOULD have been burning off regularly is why the fires out there are so intense and hard to control now.
That being said, DON'T ignore local fire bans. Stoves can be had for, literally, a few dollars. Yes, it's a cheap knock-off of the MSR Pocket Rocket, but I bought 3 and haven't had any failures among them yet. If you wanted to try out that type of stove, that would be my recommendation as it has a built-in spark-lighter which does NOT come standard on some of the stoves that cost 10 times as much.
You can still find those cartridges, but they're really not advisable. If you are in the UK then one of these will really surprise you for value for money.
I love camping. This is the coolest thing I can find, hands down. It's just so cheap, and with great reviews. Honestly, a lot of ultralight canister stoves have mixed reviews and are in the $30-120 range. The only part that's keeping me from getting it is that I can't get it delivered to Canada. C'est la vie on amazon.ca. Amazon.com gets all the cool stuff.
I'd have to go with Dead Space 3. I played the first one and loved how terrifying it could be, and I just bought the second one. I'll have a week or two with nothing to do coming up, so I'm thinking of marathoning them.
Yes. So will $5 stoves from Amazon.
Stove
From my experience of being a poor college student who loves the outdoors, take advantage of bargain gear, Craigslist, and thrift stores. Yes, if you buy titanium cookware, an ultralight 4 season tent, and a 0.2 micron purifier you will be good to go, but you will also have an empty wallet.
Some good cheap items that I still use today from time to time:
Stanley Cook Pot from Target/Walmart: This $12-$15 foldable cook pot will snugly fit a small fuel canister and this stove http://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451241733&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=backpacking+stove+piezo , plus some aluminum foil and seasoning packets, etc. Find a bowl and cup for cheap and bring some top ramen and oatmeal packets (plus some freeze dried veggies, fruit, and jerky) and you have an entire cooking set up plus breakfast and dinner for somewhere in the range of $30.
For water purification you can buy a Coghlan's purifier and iodine tablets for about $20 combined. The iodine tablets taste terrible, so I would highly recommend having a good purifier being one of your first major purchases (after boots).
Sleeping bag and backpack can be bought from Craigslist or army surplus for cheap. Sleeping bags are rough because the price and quality difference between the mid-end and high-end stuff is huge, in my opinion, but you make do with what you have.
Most other essentials (compass, waterproof matches, paracord, etc.) can be bought pretty cheap. I'm not entirely sure what the opinion of Coghlans is on this sub, but I have not bought a product from them I didn't like. I would not expect to own anything they make for life, but for the money it is usually pretty good.
As far as deciding where to go, places like Reddit are excellent. Look at a Google Maps view of your area and find the green space. Look up any national forests, parks, or monuments in your area and find out what kind of opportunities they have. A good sign of a quality wilderness experience is dispersed camping opportunities, in my opinion.
Lastly, only experience will tell you what you don't need to pack, do need to pack, etc. I used to only bring one compass until I got lost and started doubting my compass. Thankfully my hiking partner had a gps tool, especially since my compass was indeed malfunctioning. Now I have a light compass I bring along that I can use as a sanity check in case I begin to doubt my main one.
I have this stove here, do you know how much burn time I will have with it?
I also have to cook breakfast and maybe lunch, so I was worried.
Open a bank account at Well Fargo or JP Morgan Chase.
Fargo has the most branch offices in the USA and Chase has the most ATM's of any bank. Or open one at both. This will give near universal access to your money without you having to carry excessive amount of cash. Scan all your documents into a password protected file and email that to yourself.
Find opportunities on craigslist gigs for one day cash jobs.
Dumpster diving food, calling on small cafes and shops near closing time and asking for left overs will cut food expenses dramatically. Study up on wild edibles at the library and always ask older people to teach you wild edible plants. People with gardens will give you more food than you can carry if you ask them to trade some labor for food. Often they won't ask anything of you but some will need help changing a light bulb or mowing the lawn.
If you are out early in the morning look for road kill. Smell it and feel the temperature. Is it fresh? Cut off what you want and cook it shortly thereafter. Free food is everywhere.
Must have a means of cooking, stove, fuel, pot with a lid, spoon, knife.
And a ridiculously cheap alternative. I bought two to bring a backup in case one failed, but the thing is pretty well made, solid, and reliable. Now I don't bother bringing a backup (or I use a soda can alcohol stove). Worst that happened was that it didn't light and I needed to use a match, which is what you'd do every time with the pocket rocket.
This is arguably just as good at a fraction of the price. It runs off the same iso-butane fuel.
http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88
Bam. My friend has one and it works just as well as my PocketRocket. The Piezo ignition doesn't work for shit but who cares, you should have matches or a lighter with you anyway. Less than $8. Can't beat it.
A solar powered lantern, lightweight hammock, Ultralight stove, and multi tool seems like a good start.
Can you be more specific as to the particular stove(s) you're looking at on amazon?
A few months ago, I was looking for a cheap backpacking stove and stumbled upon this one on amazon.
Seems to have pretty favorable reviews, and I was going to order it, until I realized that it would be shipping from Hong Kong. If I'd had the time to wait for shipping, I would have purchased it, but I needed something right away.
That being said, I ended up just going to my local REI and picking up the MSR pocket rocket and have been extremely impressed with the performance. It also feels extremely durable, I'd highly recommend it.
Also....that one on amazon has an electronic ignition. It's nice, but the other components will probably outlive it. Plus you're already carrying matches/lighter so it's not like the lack of ignition on the MSR is extra weight.
Just my thoughts!
haha this one even less
thanks
Yeah that's what I've heard about wetness, hopefully won't be much of a problem... As for a stove I'm not sure, I was thinking something [cheap and small like this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1) which seems to have pretty good reviews. The Soto looks awesome, would it be a good idea to invest a bit more into a stove or will a cheap one work fine? They all seem to be fairly simple for what they are
SECTION | CONTENT
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Title | SMOKY MOUNTAINS | Section hiking the Appalachian Trail Episode 1
Description | We set out to hike a small section of the AT. Mom, Dad, and I had an amazing time! There's so much life out on the AT. Make sure to check out Episode 2! Episode 2: https://youtu.be/rxYF34Mhpxc FOLLOW ME ON TWITTER: https://twitter.com/Turners_Travels Gear List: Camera Gear: Gitup Git2p - http://amzn.to/2tfm4dW Note 5 - http://amzn.to/2rsoaps Nikon D3400 - http://amzn.to/2rskV1h Hiking Gear: Icetek Sports Ultralight Portable Outdoor Backpacking Camping Stove - http://amzn.to/2tAypJ7 Ohuhu17...
Length | 0:01:49
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here is a similar knock-off stove for half the price you listed. I have this one and it works well.
I also have this to go with it (look at the related products for in-stock options).
This setup is ok for one person with the right kind of meals. For two+ people I bring a whisperlite with a larger cookset but I'll also mention that my most often and preferred vehicle is the canoe, so weight is less of an issue to me than a hiker.
For a tent I have the Ledge Scorpion 2. It's light, small, freestanding, has an optional tarp for when it rains, and good ventilation.
You can get a decent sleeping bag at Academy. I have a No Limits 32 degree tent. I wouldn't get anything rated colder than that because they'll be too big. Mine is basically as big as you should ever get. I'd recommend smaller.
For bed roll I I have the Alps Comfort Series. It rolls real flat and is inflatable by mouth.
For cooking system I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U8CP88/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1. It's extremely light and small. Works great with this for cookware: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037DD3R4/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1.
Don't forget about a good backpack and a good water purification equipment.
How about this camp stove and the GSI Minimalist set?
I use them for camping, and altogether they weigh under 3 pounds with a canister.
I love them both. They are the only two headphones I have kept, while trying/returning the rest. The X2s are more comfortable, with an airy/open feel, great to listen to music/game. I also love the v modas for techno/rap and gaming as well. I have also used the v modas to travel/fly with 2-3 times now as well. I would def pick up the x2s esp if you can get a deal.
Side note, since I've seen some other people mentioning an amp/dac, I picked up the
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484514699&amp;sr=8-30&amp;keywords=e17
This makes a WORLD of a difference. Sounds WAY better. You can also add additional bass. I would never go back to not having a DAC. I normally play directly from my PC (motherboard), with no soundcard, so this helps a lot.
Here's what I use: FiiO E17 which is a good entry level DAC that is portable.
I just entered the audiophile world so I'm not exactly an expert on all of this, but with that much money you could get a Schiit Stack (Magni and Modi AMP/DAC combo) or if you want a portable amp/dac you could get the Fiio E17, which is known to drive all but the highest impedance headphones. I don't know much about IEM's but for over the ear headphones I would suggest Sennheiser HD 650's if you're looking for a slightly mellow-er sound, or HiFiMan HE-400's if you're looking for a sharper, brighter sound with slightly deeper bass. Mad Dog headphones are also very nice if you're looking for closed cans.
The price of any of the combination here will be less than $600 USD but I would guess that things may be slightly more expensive to ship to NZ.
Personally I think the best setup for the price would be something like:
The HD 600's are imo probably the best value for money in it's price bracket if you're looking for a fairly neutral/balanced sound. It is fully open though so it may leak a bit too much noise for your liking. If you need more isolation, take a look at the Philips Fidelio L2 (a lot more 'fun' sounding aka somewhat v-shaped sound signature).
The FiiO E17 is a fairly bog standard portable DAC/Amp. Nothing special but it will get the job done.
I can't answer all of it, but I don't think lossless files necessarily have poor metadata support. It may just be that the sources you are getting these files from didn't bother with it.
If you have an apple i-phone it probably sounds better because it has a good built in DAC, some other phones may have this too, or it may just be that your computer isn't set up properly
yes a better soundcard can increase your sound quality, but you're probably better off buying an external DAC and using a WASAPI output. [Chart] I have a Fiio E17 and im getting a Aune T1 soon :)
As far as headphones i recommend a pair of Sennheiser 598's for $250 or if that's too pricey the Audio-Technica ATH-M50's are a great pair of phones for $160
A lot of this stuff goes on sale occasionally, there was recently a sale for the Fiio DAC where it was only $90. I'd recommend signing up for massdrop.com and looking for some good deals there and elsewhere
Hopefully someone who knows more will reply, I'm looking at buying some new speakers that I would connect to a DAC (which I basically bought in place of a soundcard) and this or something similar seems to be the best option so far.
(in your case, with some adapters like this or this)
Look into Fiio. I think that this might be worth stretching the budget.
My first and most idiot-proof MP3 player: Creative NOMAD MuVo 128 MB MP3 Player. Yes, an indomitable ONE HUNDRED TWENTY-EIGHT MEGABYTES. Absolute INSANITY.
Other keys features: no display, hot red color, plays MP3 AND WMA, and holds 4 whole hours of WMA music. What more do you need?
The icing on the cake? I knew nothing about audio formats, so I would convert all of my songs to the lowest possible bit-rate. I used to brag about how many songs I could cram on that thing. Cringe-worthy in retrospect.
As for giveaways, I would suggest this DAC or this amp.
Actually, just spend $17 more dollars and raffle this.
Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/FIIO-E17-Alpen-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=pd_cp_e_0
or
http://www.headphone.com/learning-center/hifiman-ef-2a.php
over any sound card. You just get more for your money quality wise, and don't need drivers or software, just plug and the dedicated hardware does the rest.
I'm not entirely sure which DACs would would with the Galaxy Nexus (I used to own one but never tried a DAC with it), but something like the Fiio E17 DAC/Amp combo would be what you're looking for. Android is a bit of a pain to work with when it comes to audio, so do some research about what device supports your particular device before you buy it.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-E17-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409041386&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=fiio
I can only speak to the DT-990 Pro.
It takes quite a bit to drive them to get the full soundstage, range, and overall experience. You will need an amp.
You said "mostly for home and bus/train so not a necessity but would be nice"
They wont be the greatest for use on the go, unless you have a travel amp - something like this https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW
I can play them through my iPhone 7, but the volume doesn't get as loud as I would like, and it's lacking the crisp audio that makes them unique in the first place.
So I have an old Fiio e17 (FiiO E17 Alpen Portable Headphone Amplifier USB DAC (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lhlOybJ8JTN88) that I bought back in 2012, and I just bought a Fiio x5 2nd gen.
My question is how to theoretically get the best sound out of it. Should I use line out to the 17, using the x5s dac and the 17s amp?
Or should I use the coax out from the x5 to use the 17s both dac and amp?
Or are the x5ii's dac and amp both better than the old 17?
I know it's not going to make a massive difference between the options, but I'm curious which would perform better with a variety of headphones. I haven't been keeping up on my specs.
I use a S4 with a FIIO E17 portable amp. It has USB so when I'm at work, I use it as a usb amp with linux. When I'm traveling I use the Headphone jack, and if you have an Iphone 5 you can use even use optical.
Really drives the headphones and gives some good sound. Pretty cheap around 110 bux, if you already have good headphones that is.
For headphones, using VModa M-100 headphones right now, good for bass.
This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.
I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.
As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.
/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.
Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out
>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.
In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.
You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.
All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.
I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.
.
.
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^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.
I called Sony support after trying one more time to play during my lunch break this afternoon. While the problem still persists when I'm not using my headphones, I've come to notice it's only a fraction as bad when only listening through my speakers. Sony support says it may be my headphones fault, and of course upon further examination it seems my headphones just weren't liking those big fights, (so weird). Here is a quote from a linked article:
>As the load impedance drops many amps will at some point switch from "voltage clipping" to "current clipping". In the first case the amp runs into the power supply rail which limits the peak output. This is usually a fairly clean sort of clipping. But in the second case protection circuits in the amp are triggered to limit the peak current, a DC-DC or regulated power supply may current limit, or some amps simply fall on their face in other ways when asked to deliver current in excess of their design limit. In all of these cases the amp is no longer able to swing close to the normal supply voltage and its output is artificially limited--sometimes in a rather harsh ugly sounding way.
These are the headphones I use:
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-Custom-One-Pro-Black/dp/B008XEYT48
I don't have this type of problem, even with games that have high fidelity audio like DJ Max: Technika Tune. The suggestion is to buy one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376005576&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=fiio
(Basically a portable preamp). Sorry for the confusion, though if I play the game with a cheaper pair of headphones I can at least sit down for longer than 30 minutes without tearing off my ears now. :)
I hadn't thought about ordering the U-Turn, good point.
As for preamp and amplifier, I've got neither. This is the only amp I own, but I figured its only suitable for headphones.
Say I get the Rega RP1, what preamp/amp or integrated amp would you recommend I get with the remaining £170?
If you want good sound people here have nailed it pretty good. Sansa Clip sounds pretty good even out of the box.
Cowon are known for having good sound as well. I would recommend at some point if you want something that sounds really good - look at getting a DAC or DAC/AMP combo - these things really enhance MP3s - they will make you say "oh wow..." especially if you are using good headphones. I have 3 DACs and I recently just heard the FiiO E17 and was really impressed with it - particularly for 100 bucks.
Get the sansa and look later into a DAC/AMP combo. Even with the DAC you are under 200 bucks. :)
FiiO E17 - 121.99 http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW
Also look at FiiO E10 - I have one of these, very happy with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373074173&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=FiiO
If you don't already have a good soundcard like a Xonar or HT|Omega, you're on a laptop, or you use multiple devices and you use headphones I recommend one of these FiiO E17 amps. It takes basically every input type, runs of battery if you want to use it in a portable setting. If you use Coax or Toslink it will support dolby3d and other virtual 3d setups. Use it with the ipod adapter and you can bypass the internal dac on your iphone/ipad/ipod to get really good sound.
Pretty much the best bang:buck you can get for portable amps/dac.
90% of the time I use Shure e3c IEM's when tracking drums and a portable FiiO e17 headphone amp to boost the weak signal out of my Tascam US-1800 audio interface. The IEM's are very balanced and unlike the other IEM's I have, ever drum that is mic'd up can be easily distinguished and the highs on the overheads and hi-hat are also very clear so I know if I'm messing up on the more intricate and faster rhythms.
I prefer not having very bass heavy IEM's when tracking because the bass will wash out the other toms and it's more important to hear the click on the kick when playing. I mic the kick with a Shure Beta 52A part way in the resonant head and pointing towards the impact zone and then a 15" PA Speaker I modified to be a microphone for all the super low, sub-like thump, but when I'm recording I turn that down in the mix.
Anyways, the point is that the benefits of tracking with IEM's is that you can hear every single hit even better than if you were listening in the room and also that there is less ear ear fatigue from longer recording sessions. Also, in my opinion at least, when mixing for your monitors (the IEM's in this case) it's better to have more of a flat response than huge bass and low end. I'm not totally sure what the current equivalent to my discontinued headphones are but I'm guessing they would be the Shure SE315 or possibly the Shure SE425 IEM's.
E17 EQ can lower the treble, it is also a dac which could improve the sound of your console (optical), or PC (usb,opti,coax). its a little out of your price range at 140. the E7 half the price but I believe only does 3 different bass boost EQ.
They don't leak sound imo I'm using a regular sound card since there is no need to buy a new one because I bought this
Sorry. The correct site is: http://swappa.com
This is the DAC I meant: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070UFMOW/
Once you start using DAC, you will not go back... it brings out the instruments from the songs that would not have heard before
What's your recommendation for both portable and desktop use? >$500 US budget. Right now I'm looking at a Fiio E17 and a set of Sennheiser Momentums (over ear). I listen to CD-quality or better lossless files on an iPod/iPhone/MacBook Pro. I don't care about built in iPod controls/mic, but if there's a version of the headphones with that built in, I'll probably get that one. No brand loyalties.
My holy grail headphones would be something in the same design as the Bose Triports (slim, very lightweight, circumaural), but with excellent sound.
Budget - <$500 US. Closer to $350 would be ideal, but $500 if it's worth it (which I think it probably is). I don't currently have a DAC/headphone amp, so I'm hoping to fit that into the total.
Source - iPod, iPhone, MacBook Pro.
Requirements for Isolation - I don't need to block out other sound, but I don't want people sitting next to me in the library to hear my music. This is important to me.
Preferred Type of Headphone - Circumaural preferred, but on the slimmer side--I would also consider IEMs. My only experience with IEMS was a set of $80 Ultimate Ears that I found uncomfortable and difficult to achieve a good seal with. They broke after ~6 years of light use.
Preferred tonal balance - I'm not sure, although I know I don't want a ton of extra bass.
Past headphones - Right now I'm using a set of Sennheiser HD280 Pros at my desk, and some Klipsch S4i's for walking around. Both are fine, but neither really blows me away. I once had 5 minutes alone with some HD800s, and I've been pining after that kind of sound ever since. I know I can't afford to get there right now, but I'd like to get a little closer. Also, I don't want these new headphones to be as big as the 280's, if possible. I find them too big and heavy to wear walking around.
Preferred Music - A little of everything, but a lot of rock. Usually punk, pop-punk, power metal, 80s/90s pop rock--mainly vocal and guitar heavy stuff. I want to clearly hear the bass, but it should never overpower the rest of the instruments. I also listen to quite a bit of acoustic guitar, and some classical piano.
Location - US.
Just about any head unit that supports A2DP should work... Just go to crutchfield, sort by features, then buy some place less expensive.
I've had good luck with their scratch and dent section too.
IMO, Bluetooth streaming audio sounds like shit. I would at least consider getting USB audio out to work like this guy so that you could use an external DAC like the Fiio E17 or something similar.
Or if you have room for a double-DIN, you could get a SPH-DA100 with ARLiberator for some awesome HDMI display mirroring and music streaming.
Also, these Beyerdynamic-style headband pads fit almost perfectly over the stock hard-vinyl Grado band.
https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473049952&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=beyerdynamic+headband This might work
This looks really easy to fix with superglue or something. Unless, as others have already said, you need an excuse to get a new one. Why not just get a clip on headband like this : http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A
The eadiest solution is to buy new pads.
I'm not too sure if they'll fit, but the HM5 pads are very good. They have pleather, velour and hybrid variants (normal and angled).
For the headrest, get a leather Beyerdynamic cushion.
Earpads: https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO
Headband: https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A
It's a very simple mod: http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405565300&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=grado+headband
Basically, I thought the Audeze padding would have been really good and that I wouldn't have to worry about hotspots, but that wasn't the case. Luckily, I had this (used with my Grado 325is) and it fit pretty well. The last buttons can snap together. If you don't mind the aesthetics (or lack thereof), it really, really helps with comfort.
I get you. The headband on mine is peeling horribly, and I had to replace the cups a few months ago because of the peeling and the smell. I'm on mobile right now, but later today I'll link to a headband replacement I found on amazon.
EDIT: This is the one I meant
You could try one of these beyerdynamic style cushions. I know a lot of people like them for some of the heavier headphones like some of the HiFiman models.
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00862522A/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427602298&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Headphone+headband&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41kPqpzxEiL&amp;ref=plSrch
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
Alright, I can work with that.
To preface this, I recommend pairing one of the following headphones with a clip-on microphone - either a cheaper model like a [Zalman ZM-Mic1] (http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ) or a more expensive model like [Antlion's Modmic] (http://www.modmic.com/collections/frontpage) - rather than getting a headset with an integrated mic. From a price/performance standpoint, headsets almost never stack up. The headsets made by the real headphone brands are exceedingly expensive, and with a very small body of exceptions the cheaper headsets sound terrible.
Now, onward to the headphones. When I hear "isolation", "comfort", and "neutral/warm sound signature", the first thing that comes to my mind is [NVX's] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/624729/review-nvx-xpt100-a-direct-brainwavz-hm5-competitor) [XPT100] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2G9qk7IOEA) ([$99 via Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/NVX-Over-Ear-Headphones-ComfortMax-Cushions/dp/B0093PVTPS)). I actually own a pair of these myself for use as moderate isolation movie/podcast headphones for when my house is too loud for me to use my open headphones, and they're among the most comfortable headphones I've had. While they don't take the top spot - no headphones without an AKG-style suspension strap will ever do that - they're definitely in the top five or so. Their sound isn't the most detailed out there, but they're fairly neutral, solidly built, and very comfortable, particularly given their price.
A more expensive step up would be [Shure's] (http://www.head-fi.org/products/shure-srh840/reviews/5056) SRH[840] (http://www.head-fi.org/products/shure-srh840/reviews/3768) ([$199 via Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SRH840-Professional-Monitoring-Headphones/dp/B002DP8IEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426324378&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=shure+srh84)). While I sadly haven't had a chance to try these out myself, I've heard little but good things about them. Formerly on Innerfidelity's wall of fame, and with consistently good reviews for their sound, comfort, and overall quality, they're definitely a solid choice if you're looking for a neutralish sound with some bass.
A third option would be the [Focal Spirit One] (http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/focal-spirit-one-page-3) ([$175] (http://www.amazon.com/Focal-529102-SPOH-Spirit-One-Headphones/dp/B007AH7YFU) or [$179] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008R9QRIU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687702&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B007AH7YFU&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0HS51KQ3XCE0J5B14R27) via Amazon for the black and white models, respectively). Focal has a quite a solid reputation in audio, but the Spirit One had some serious issues on its release due to manufacturing defects, and it suffered a rather bad reception as a result. These issues are said to have been since resolved, however, and the Spirit One is a very solid headphone at that price. The sound is a bit on the bassy side, but not extremely so, and is quite good for this price. Comfort may be an issue, however, as the One was quite clearly designed more for portability than comfort. While no review characterizes it as uncomfortable, it's a safe bet that it doesn't measure up to the other two in this regard.
Another rather unique option, albeit one with some inherent drawbacks, would be [Fostex's] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/570138/review-fostex-t50rp-my-intro-to-the-world-of-orthos) [T50RP] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/559233/review-fostex-t50rp-its-been-needing-a-review) ([$127 via Amazon] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/559233/review-fostex-t50rp-its-been-needing-a-review)). Now, the T50RP is, at stock, not the best-liked headphone. Though it is one of the (if not the) cheapest orthodynamic headphones in the world, its very poor comfort and [rolled-off sound] (http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/FostexT50RP2011B.pdf) have attracted a lot of criticism. Having a pair myself, I wholeheartedly agree with criticism of its comfort, but think its stock sound is better than people give it credit for. What the T50RP has going for it, however, is an [exceptionally dedicated modding community] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/618659/fostex-t50rp-incremental-mods-and-measurements), and some very high-profile modified variants. Modded T50RPs under the branding of MrSpeakers and ZMF can sell for $300, $600, or even $1,000, and experienced reviewers and audiophiles alike have claimed that they measure up to headphones in those price ranges. If you happen to feel a DIYish inclination, a T50RP can be quite a solid project to work on, and, in theory, it can get you $300-600 sound quality for a little sound of $200 accounting for the various materials it takes to mod them.
Now, there are, as said, quite a few drawbacks to the T50RP: the stock sound isn't for everyone, it requires more power to drive than the other mentioned headphones (not enough to cause issues at stock, in my opinion, but when modded it can be quite intensive to drive, almost assuredly moreso than your integrated audio can support), and it's absolutely terrible in comfort (if you do go for them, [a headband cover like this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and a pair of [Shure] (http://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC840-Replacement-Cushions-Headphones/dp/B002Z9JWZS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426325351&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=shure+pads) or [Brainwavz] (http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426325358&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=brainwavz+pads) pads were what I used to take them from "terrible" to "pretty darn solid" comfort), and modding isn't for the faint of heart. After quite a while of tinkering, I've yet to get my own T50RP mod working properly. It's amazing value if you can make it work for you, but it's quite a significant amount of effort to achieve that.
Have had the the corded 3.5 headphone jack version (8323) for the past five years, at the time was $28 including shipping. Would absolutely recommend if you get alternative ear pads and possibly a head band of this kind for comfort. I use Beyerdynamic Earpads. I can look up the exact links for the two products on Amazon later if anyone is interested.
I also applied a very nice decal to mine to remove the mono price branding from DecalGirl. It's under Kicker HP541 as these are just rebranded by Monoprice.
Looks like this one.
Glue or tape it and cover with something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one. I am not sure if it'll fit the band... it seems like the middle of the band since it expands out won't allow it to fit.
I've seen some of the wraps including this style http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i11?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-3&amp;pf_rd_r=1B176DGRX5CHPMM7SDN4&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=577048407&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop
I have to say i don't like these at all. So vetwrap to me seemed like it would work
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
bought http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 thinking it would fit the q701 headband but it was far too wide so i ended up cutting off the sides of the headband pad with an olfa knife then hot melt glued it to those bumps which dig into my bald skull .. this is the end result it's slightly ghetto but i am satisfied with the comfort http://i.imgur.com/Rh52PP6.jpg
Nice! My buddy actually just got the 400i and really seems to be enjoying them coming from his dt 770's.
It took me about 2 years to finally get my he-400's comfortable enough for extended wear sessions. That metal band across the top with minimal padding was a poor design choice. Glad they decided to redesign them because the drivers are incredible for the price.
HERE are the ear pads I now use (similar to the LCD-2). So worth the money.
And HERE is the headband for extra padding
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00862522A/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427602298&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Headphone+headband&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41kPqpzxEiL&amp;ref=plSrch
My advice: Bend your headband.
Seriously.
Grados are meant to be customized to the size of your head, there should be just enough clamping force to keep them in place.
Obviously be fairly gentle so you don't snap the metal brace in half, but they're pretty rugged.
EDIT: Also buy one of these. They're probably available on ebay for cheaper.
One of these or these might help.
For reference, the 770s are of the closed-back variety. The 990s look to be open, while the 880s are a blend of the two. If you have the 80 or 250 Ohm versions, you might need a headphone amp to get a decent volume.
EDIT: Added another option.
Not from the SMSL amp.
The Sennheiser's have a 1/4" headphone plug, which can be plugged into one of these adapters:
https://smile.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y/
which would plug directly into your laptop or phone, no SMSL amp needed.
Is the SMSL amp used for speakers, or did you buy it for the headphones?
C'mon man, this isn't the place to ask, their is a thread, but if you are going to ask, at least include what you want from it. IMO, get a Fostex TH X00, a Micca Origen and one of these.
Ironically, Sennheiser has a good 6.3mm to 3.5mm that they ship with (at least) the HD600/650:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm-3-5mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y/
That adaptor works great with cell phones, and doesn't risk breakage. Sad to see they use a cheapy adaptor on lower models..
found that.. but what about a 1/8" 3.5mm to 1/4" 6.3mm converter? Need one now and just cheap crap found
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm-3-5mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411633335&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Sennheiser+3.5+to+1%2F4
Or just one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=1%2F4+inch+to+3.5mm+adapter&amp;qid=1565195574&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5
You can buy this adapter or any of these cables.
Try picking up one of these 6.3mm>3.5mm and trying another source. This item is a good investment especially if you plan on dabbling with other stuff.
If another source doesn't fix it then it probably needs RMA'd.
Kinda a bit pricey for what it is, but there is a fairly short adapter you can get. A cheaper one with a right angle plug is available too. Adds an extra layer of break away if your cable gets snagged for whatever reason.
That said, I think the Fiio M11 might fit your requirements and is about $450.
I don’t have an amp. I just have the guitar. Would something like this work? If I plug this into my headset transmitter will it just work or does this adapter not have microphone capability?
Sennheiser Cable Adapter Female 1/4" 6.3mm to Male 1/8" 3.5mm Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JGWY2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mOWezbGKVJWTC
this guy will ease the pressure on your pc's audio jack:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm-3-5mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420246406&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=6.5mm+to+3.5mm
there are cheaper ones out there too
An adapter like this might work if you don't want to get a longer 3.5mm cable. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm-3-5mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y
Assuming you mean the termination is too big
6.3mm (1/4") to 3.5mm (1/8") adapter
A bit on the more expensive side, but this kind of adapter is ideal when going from big to small.
I would recommend a adapter cable, not just the short adapter, this will take some of the bulk away and not put that much load on the minijack port. https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y/
Like matty_b said, you need a 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter. Here's a link to a good one off Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008JGWY2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1419961793&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008JGWY2Y/
Thanks for the advice. I will surely replace it.
Thanks for that, I only just found out about those short cord ones. I ended up going with this, so hopefully will work out.
I think you want something like this with a long USB cable?
This one
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated-Smartphones/dp/B00J2JATL0
It is nothing special, but imo it sounds way better than my onboard audio. Also it can go much louder than my onboard. There are definetly better "bang for your buck" amp/DAC combos out there though, so I would do some research on that.
http://www.amazon.com/Audioquest-DragonFly-Preamp-Headphone-Version/dp/B00H00VLZQ
This Dragonfly 1.2 is the standard in your price range. It regularly goes on sale for under $100 here in the states. Some DACs are considered a little better or worse in that price range, but you could do worse for the money. Schiit fulla is another contender at $80, and there are a few other others that could deserve consideration like the Creative E series:
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated-Smartphones/dp/B00J2JATL0?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=creative%20dac&amp;qid=1465356999&amp;ref_=sr_1_7&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-7 (goes on sale for $35 here)
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B00J79KNPM?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=creative%20dac&amp;qid=1465356999&amp;ref_=sr_1_4&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-4
These are some of simplest solutions. Plug and play. You could also grab a cheap DAC and a separate, and more powerful Headphone amp if needed.
How else would I use them other than stereo? There is only two ears on my body. I have an amplifier when I need it. But that doesn't matter, they are powered headphones that have a built in amp.
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated-Smartphones/dp/B00J2JATL0
It;s not a high end piece of SCHiiT, lol (had 2 do it) but I've got a Brand NEW, without box, Creative Sound Blaster E1 Portable Headphone Amplifier for only $30 shipped Link. Condition is a perfect 10/10 with the protective clear plastic still on the rear clip. It's really small, charges its internal battery via microUSB and sounds great! Also comes with a microUSB and 3.5mm audio cable. I've got two available. + Feel Free 2 check out my other stuff
Reddit HWS Link
Some great USB DAC's (some with integrated headphone amps) to consider, from lowest price to highest:
Just looking into a portable amplifier. How would this one work if I want to use them with TX2BK earphones and ATH-M50x headphones? Sorry if this is a silly question but I don't really understand impedances and things likes that.
While the software may be a nightmare to install and properly set up the first time, perphaps a Soundblaster E1 could solve your problems? It's around $40 on amazon.
Just a suggestion for you, it's what I use with my boom pro mic.
The way i have done it, is with a Antlion Mod Mic
and this thing for a clean sounding mic input
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated-Smartphones/dp/B00J2JATL0
you can even use it as a portable headphone amp, drives my dt990 250ohms at reasonable levels.
Is this junk? Seems like a nice solution for the mic as well: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated-Smartphones/dp/B00J2JATL0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
[Help] X-post /r/WATMM
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What headphone amp should I get for ~$100 for my 250Ohm DT770 Pro headphones?
I bought this a few months ago trying to be frugal but, unless I'm somehow using it incorrectly, it doesnt seem to be very good. Any recommendations? Maybe some basics I should know when choosing one at least. Thanks!
Or hopefully, help me figure out why my current setup isn't getting much bass! I'm using a Scarlett 2i4 and have my headphone amp plugged into the headphone out with an adapter. Maybe the adapter is the problem?
Get a Soundblaster E1 or an ASUS Xonar U3
Or if your motherboard and case allows, get an ASUS Xonar DG
If you want the best sound then it can't be wireless.
DT990,HD598, K612, AD900x, T50RP.
For the mic there is the popular modmic, for the electronics there is the E10k or the E1.
Location - United States
Budget - $130 - $300 [USD]
Source - Future Built Desktop / Google Pixel / 2017 Dell Latitude 7000 2-in-1 13.3"
Requirements for Isolation - Not really a requirement, I don't think its possible for headphones to leak loud enough for neighbors to hear in an apartment complex. The majority of use, if not all to begin with, will be at my apartment.
Will you be using these Headphones in Public? No, not looking for a portable AMP/DAC
Preferred Type of Headphone - Over Ear / Open Back (would consider closed)
Preferred tonal balance - I definitely like bass, but feel I can get my fill of it in my car. I'm not an experienced audiophile so i'm not sure what I like, see below.
Past headphones - Had ATH-M50X coupled with this used off of a Samsung Galaxy Note 4 and a Desktop PC primarily. Currently have Jaybird X3's.
Preferred Music - I listen to every genre, but if I had to quantify: 30% Hip Hop, 15% Rock, 20% EDM/Dubstep/Chillstep, 15% Country, 15% Metal/Screamo, 5% Jazz. I'm open to experiencing all that a high end pair of headphones can offer and will likely listen to stuff off /r/audiophilemusic a lot.
These will also be mainly used for gaming so I would like to think a wide and accurate sound stage is the most critical aspect?
What would you like to improve on from your set-up - To experience the next level or at least very close to the ATH-M50X. That's why my budget has a lower end, it'd be nice to save money and spend under $200 if there was something that could blow the M50X out of the water.
I plan to pair with the Schiit Magni 3 and Schiit Modi 2. Open to something else that may pair better with whatever you may suggest, but that indicates my AMP/DAC budget.
Would this be all I needed for a decent setup to start or do I have to buy additional cables or upgraded cables??
As for current ideas, I was looking to stretch for the Sennheiser HD600's, but the 20 yr age of the design is off-putting to me for some reason.
In addition to those:
I use this, it's fairly cheap and works great. https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated-Smartphones/dp/B00J2JATL0
That's probably just the built-in audio from your mobo, pretty sure a DAC will get rid of that crackling sound.
I was hoping for something that used the lightening port, as my iphone doesn't have a headphone jack. i picked up one of these as I wanted the amplifier feature also:
Creative Sound Blaster E1 Portable Headphone Amplifier with Integrated Mic and Dual Headphone Jacks for PC and Smartphones - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J2JATL0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ah okay, so I assume something like this then?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J2JATL0?keywords=soundblaster%20e1&amp;qid=1450319936&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
Figure that'd be better, or the Creative one since I can raise the volume beyond just the PC settings.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-6-Inch-Stereo-Splitter-Mobile/dp/B00DIGCZ3S/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484946241&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=3.5mm+splitter
or
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Earphone-Headset-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484946241&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=3.5mm+splitter
I mean, you could use a headphone splitter cable (3.5 mm Y-splitter) and use another 3.5 mm patch cable to run the other branch into the Audio In on a TV or receiver. In theory that should work, with the understanding that you will degrade the audio quality, whoever is using the headphones will be deaf while the TV audio may be barely audible. If you have a receiver, you could bring up the signal using that volume control independent of the PS4 (or even just the TV volume, but results will vary).
That's a pretty terrible idea, but simultaneously outputting to headphones and a TV is not a normal use case so hopefully you were expecting something like this.
Yes - they make y-cables.
One example - you find them all over: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Earphone-Headset-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510337482&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=3.5+mm+y+splitter
no, you don't need ICs, you need like $20 and the right cables.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/
plus
https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Breakout-Double-Cords/dp/B07K59J42N/
If you have a 3.5mm port for headphones on your phone, you could probably use a splitter/y-splitter that has 1 male, 2 female connections. Then you just use one phone and wouldn't have a delay issue.
These speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016P9HJIA
This Sub: https://www.amazon.com/Polk-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer-Single/dp/B0002KVQBA/
This Headphone Splitter (goes into your echo aux/external speaker connector). https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/
2 of these 3.5mm to RCA cables, one of them goes from the echo to the speaker inputs and the other goes from the echo into the subwoofer inputs. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8KO2/
That sub will be a bit overpowered for those speakers, the speakers will be much louder than the echo as well and you won't even have to run the sub at full to have plenty of extra bass.
Splitter here.
This will give 2 and you can connect additional splitters to split it further UGREEN 3.5mm Audio Stereo Y Splitter Extension Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Vv0HDbP6S8PWE
Back in 2014 I bought this audio joiner cable: Amazon link. The intention was to listen to two different audio sources with one pair of ear/headphones. For that, it works fine; however, the biggest weakness is it's length.
For example, if I attach one end to my PC and one to my 3DS (for listening to in-game music/effects whilst in Discord/TeamSpeak), I can't hold my 3DS more than 16" away from my PC.
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Any 'ol 2F-1M won't work!
I thought the solution would be a 2Female-1Male cable, like this one: Amazon link; however, that one, and all others I've found, are meant to use one audio source (e.g. iPod) to two outputs (e.g. two ear/headphones). And using them as the opposite (two sources into one output) doesn't sound great and has some issues, such as not being able to output stereo from both devices.
So, it seems that I need to find a specialized 2F-1M cable that supports two stereo sources into one, clean sounding output.
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Does anyone know where I can find such a specialized cable? Or some other alternative?
You're either going to have to split the audio input cable going into your headset with the PC audio included, or send all audio both in and out of the PC. Streaming on console is a PITA. Also: Check out the Chat Link.
This
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KSTSV76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SlBJBbFPD80C6
And this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xnBJBb6JN5HFH
Or similar items should work.
You need to get a Audio Splitter that provide you an option to plug your Speaker and headphones at the same time.
Assuming you have a 3.5mm audio/mic jack, try one of these.
That sounds pretty complicated.
use this and connect to your pc. If you can find a cheaper one out there, you can use that too.
After that, use 2 of these to connect to the splitter above. Use one pair to go into your Audioengine A2 and the other pair goes into your subwoofer.
Id recommend getting something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Earphone-Headset-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493649230&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=3.5mm+splitter
Then plug your consoles into that splitter, then plug that splitter into your blue 3.55 line in jack in the back of the PC. This will provide stereo.
Use a 3.5mm Audio Stereo Y Splitter Extension Cable 3.5mm Male to 2 Port 3.5mm Female:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-ayKDbRW1190B
I can't confirm, but it should be easy enough to get a 3.5mm splitter and run the L sound to one speaker and R sound to the other to get stereo experience.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6
Probably but they also make these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_TaZUAbRX438ZA
(Posted that twice the first link was wrong I got an auto delete message)
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Earphone-Headset-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481744690&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=3.5mm+splitter
Basically you just need to pause the source on one end before playing the other source.
You can use a splitter like this so both of you can use headphones. Lots of TVs have a headphone jack as well.
One to split the audio signal? Yeah, they're called splitters
This should be all you need, if my understanding is correct. You just need a second audio out port, right?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484403620&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=audio+jack+splitter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41dX9Uhr4WL&amp;ref=plSrch
Here are the images of each tab
Album
Yes the main issue is my microphone works fine when plugged into the back and no one can hear my audio but when plugged into the front everyone can hear a bad echo or my PC volume when it is loud enough.
I am using the Rosewill Gaming ATX Full Tower Computer Case THOR V2. I have not checked the reseat of the audio cable from the motherboard but I will do that.
I took your advice on a splitter and purchase this
Using that I plug my microphone directly into the back and use the splitter to split between my headseat audio jack and my PC Speaker Audio jack. This solution seems to work since I do not have to keep unplugging and plugging back in either the headset or desktop speakers I can just turn off or lower the volume on whichever one I do not want audio coming from.
Was that what you meant when you mentioned a headset splitter? Does that degrade the audio at all?
What headset and mics do you have?
Pre-warning: it's a lot of effort.
The basic principle is that you'll take game audio out of the xbox's optical port, take just chat audio out of the controller and input the signals into a two-channel mixer (allowing you to control game volume and chat volume independently). Then run the combined signal into an amplifier, split the output into two and run one to your headset and another to the elgato audio port.
I made a video a while back that explains everything up to splitting the output from the amplifier. You can see it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5og50Ai32Y&t=2s
To add to the above setup you'd need a stereo 3.5mm y splitter (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) connecting the single end to the amplifier. Then connect your headset to one of the female ports and a standard 3.5mm headphone cable from the other female port with the other end in the line-in on the elgato.
Change the elgato game capture settings to take audio from analogue rather than HDMI. Whilst the audio coming into the Elgato is still combined, you can control the volumes of game and chat independently using the 2 channel mixer. HOWEVER - this will change both what comes through the headset AND goes to stream.
You might be able to accomplish the same with a Mixamp pro TR with less cables and a neater interface, but I've not used one so can't confirm.
Are you using a special microphone that is made for smartphones?
The jack on the phone is a headset jack, not a microphone jack.
You have to use a splitter that splits the headset signal to Headphones / Microphone.
Somehing like this.
Pictures, with timestamps: http://imgur.com/a/tkK1B
For sale is a like new pair of JVC HA-SZ2000 headphones, with an alternate set of earpads (these Brainwavz HM5). Original pads are included as well (shown in images).
These are about the bassiest headphone you're going to find. Look at reviews like this or bass demos like this. These headphones are a lot of fun to listen to and to demo, but I just don't find myself using them much.
Headphones come with their original box, the HM5 pads (the red ones), the original pads, and the carrying bag included.
Asking $155 shipped, Paypal only. Not interested in any headphone trades currently.
Edit: Sold to /u/enVienne
I have these pads on my M50x and they are super comfortable and the colour matches the picture. Highly recommended.
Will these be a good starting point do you think? I just am afraid of the sound changing. Brainwavz
They sell upgraded earcups with memory foam, highly recommended
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OLKV5LI/
Amazon Lightning deal:
Brainwavz color earpads $13: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OLKV5LI/
Brainwavz angled earpads $15:
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Angled-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGFVEUE/
Headphones I've used the past 10 years.
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Virtual surround sound I've used
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Hate wired headphone?
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Microphone
I believe that they are these ones from Brainwavz - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OLKV5LI?psc=1
Using Audio-Technica M50x headphones with FiiO E10k DAC . The loudest i turn the DAC up (on windows max) its about 3-4, and that's loud like for footsteps in pubg.
Worth mentioning i use aftermarket headphone cushions made by Brainwavz. I like having full enclosed ear so they are a little bigger, any good amount of volume with these cushions will completely isolate the sound in your ear.
I forgot I've been using these replacement earpads for so long, not sure how much different they are to the hm5 https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Earpads-Headphones/dp/B00OLKV5LI/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542751735&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=brainwavz+earpads&psc=1
&#x200B;
As for volume I use 100% system volume but about 25% on the volume inside of spotify so maybe that's part of the problem.
Are 598s different in size than 558s? I've had them on my 558s for the last year now, they've been great. There is no elastic though, it's like a fake leather material with a little pliability. And they're sewed on, not glued.
Can you link the set you bought that lasted a month?
Edit: The third picture on this one is what the backs are like on the set I have. I had to trim it a little to get the plastic mounting ring in, but it was really easy.
[White Velvet Earpads] (http://www.amazon.com/ATH-M50xWH-EARPADS-ATH-M50xWH-headphones-ATH-M50RD-ATH-M50WH/dp/B00M6G4H00/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418362788&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=m50+pads)
[Black Velvet Earpads] (http://www.amazon.com/ATH-M50-PADS-VELVET-ATH-M50RD-ATH-M50WH-ATH-M50xBL-ATH-M50xWH/dp/B00F2ZM6CS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418362788&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=m50+pads)
Brown Velvet Earpads
[Black Velour Memory Foam Pads] (http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418362788&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=m50+pads)
[Dark Red/Red/White/Brown High Quality Pleather Pads] (http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00OLKV5LI/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418362788&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=m50+pads)
I bought them in all black and purchased the red replacement earpads on amazon and swapped them myself. Its an easy mod.
Link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OLKV5LI/ref=twister_B00OLMHCOU?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you post a link to the pads you want, we may help you identify them.
They are usually the replacement pads for another headphones like the brainwavz hm5, the most popular ones because they are comfortable and fit on a variety of headphones
They also offer the best quality sound and best durability available, with thick, comfortable padding.
Okay, but seriously I have these and their pads suck ass compared to Beyerdynamic's head-clouds. If anyone gets these, do yourself a massive favour and buy some [M-50x aftermarket replacements] (http://www.amazon.ca/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00OLKV5LI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425901529&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=earpad+brainwavz) that I've heard fit the 8323s...
Same price as the headphones? who ^cares ^^you ^^only ^^buy ^^^them ^^^once ^^^^and ^^^^you ^^^^can ^^^^^use ^^^^^them ^^^^^on ^^^^^AKGs ^^^^^when ^^^^^you ^^^^^inevitably ^^^^^upgrade!
Just got a pair of Superflux 681's and I've been reading that it's best to get better pads, as the stock ones aren't that great. I'm hoping to find a nice RED pair, if possible. Would these fit the 681's? I've found conflicting reports, some people saying they will, others saying they wont.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OLKV5LI/ref=sspa_mw_detail_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Generally speaking I’m not a huge fan of brainwavez for higher end stuff but these pair really well with M40X and fit your budget. That’s a combo that a lot of people recommend. They’re really not bad at all for the price. If you ever move up higher I’d recommend sticking with leather for acoustic reasons (inner walls at least if you go with hybrids).
Currently bidding on an Audio-Technica ATH-M40x headphones and would love to replace the cushions when I get it for hygienic purposes. I also heard that the OEM cushions are not the most comfortable to keep on for over 3 hours. As my main intent is too use them for listening to recorded lectures for 2-4 hours at a time and music listening, I want to replace them with something comfortable. I was thinking about the Brainwavz Replacement Memory Foam Earpads for Large Over the Ear Headphones, Dark Red. Some reviews state that the size of them will reduce the bass making the music flat. If anyone has these can they comment or give alternatives that they use?
EDIT: I'm not an audiophile, just want good sounding music with long wear comfort. If the sound change wont be noticeable to a casual user then I wouldn't mind a little loss of bass.
I had a friend who went on about the feel of the 2DS as well, then one day he manned up, got a 3DS and did what the rest of us do: got some grips for it. Suddenly everything he ever said about his 2DS went right out the window. He went with this grip which I actually prefer over my hard grip. Never suffered a hand cramp, even in his crazy 12 hour gaming sprees.
My mom has this one: http://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y
I checked it out one time when visiting her, and it is soft and super comfortable. I keep forgetting to get one for my regular 3DS XL so that hunting can be more enjoyable. I also recall that you can just put the bottom on so that you can still see the design on the 3DS if you have a limited edition one.
I haven't tried any others besides a Nerf case that my mom had that had bumps for your hands, but I really like this one. It feels almost like an actual controller.
I might consider that, I assumed you meant something like this https://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y
Looks cool and also pretty useful, so I might get one, thanks!
My dad and I both use this one, and both find it very satisfactory. I got it the day it came out and have been pleased with it ever since. The one downside is it makes it really hard to carry it around, since it will no longer fit in your pocket :(
dreamGEAR Comfort GRIP Protection for your NEW Nintendo 3DS XL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_boHQybHV29QDT
Highly recommended
You might like this: https://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y?th=1
I got this awesome [DreamGear Comfort Grip] (https://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498345759&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=3ds%2Bgrip&amp;th=1), which works really well after custom modifications with scissors -- but of course it doesn't fit in the 3DS case.
Know of any kind of case that's big enough to hold it?
Any info appreciated
the 3d is pretty good for this version 3ds, it's still not great. it tracks where your eyes are in real-time to maintain the 3d image as best it can but again, i'd give it like 5/10. the screens though are VERY nice, even in 2d so don't worry.
the c-stick is very sensitive. i'm always afraid i'm gonna break mine like when i'm playing monster hunter and freaking out trying to see what's happening around me. you'll find you won't need to push it around very much at all.
the volume is...it could be louder, but it's alright.
battery life is amazing, in my case that might mostly be attributed to playing on the lowest brightness settings you can mess with from the home menu.
my hands would cramp and sweat (gross!!) from playing the 3ds so much that i looked up on amazon a specific type of cover to put over it to protect it, this guy
so, if i were you, i'd buy pokemon on cartridge so you can have your mons separate from the console - in case, you know, your 3ds gets stolen but somehow the game isn't in it at the time, that would be very lucky (spoken from experience, i was not so lucky!!! i hope my pocket monsters are out there somewhere making somebody happy)
One of these grips makes using the 3DS so much easier.
Oh man, I'm already in love with this thing. And to add to its beefiness I purchased the Dreamgear comfort grip which pretty much makes it feel like a console controller. It's a little pricy but damn it sure is dreamy. As long as you're not carrying it around in your pocket a lot I HIGHLY recommend it.
http://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y
This is what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/MyLifeUNIT-Handle-Nintendo-New-3DS-XL/dp/B018VAEXD0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526580636&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=new+3ds+grip&psc=1
Works great, could be a little bigger, but it's easily removable which is a plus since it seems like no case is willing to leave a slot to swap out cartridges. Plus I can still see the design on the top screen.
If you want a larger grip and don't care about the above issues, I would get this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dreamGEAR-Comfort-GRIP-Protection-your-Nintendo/dp/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1526580636&sr=8-5&keywords=new+3ds+grip
Both of these are for the N3DS XL, I've never looked into grips for other form factors.
Check Amazon. Currently using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_63_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41YTAgSfpML&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=XYSEQ70R354Y7A3CEYFG
It works great!
I've tried two at this point. My first was the standard hard plastic shell a lot of other folks have linked. My second was this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's a lot like the wii-mote condoms but is a little more sturdy. It's actually pretty great and I find it comfortable.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487717874&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=3ds+grip
Basically that one but for the original XL.
Just ordered this (shows up tomorrow). 2 piece design, 4/5 stars 1400+ reviews
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UJ9LB6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Dude it happens all the time for me too in the exact same instance. My friend and I were playing online and then opps. I've thought about maybe one of these to solve the issue.
Seem like the grip is up in amazon.ca : http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00UJ9LB6Y
I'm not sure if there is a slot for the card tough...
Emmm, just find one that won't compress the headband. I don't recommend those fancy looking omega stands/imitations because they squish the pads for a lot of headphones.
Something like this works well and offers a lot of flexibility but you honestly have tons of choices as a North American. Have a search in the sidebar to see what others use.
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28
Oh I've got that covered haha, I've got a couple of these in use but I still have cans without a real home laying around. My collection is mostly just cheaper stuff but I still don't want to stuff them away into boxes.
Brainwavz currently also has their headphone holders on sale at Amazon for $11
Hooka: https://www.amazon.com/BRAINWAVZ-Hooka-Metal-Headphone-Hanger/dp/B01DNLLTIE
Hengja: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012VIWG28
It's this
Man, I really don't see where else you can put money into. If you do you'd see very high diminishing returns in any performance (bad investments). Maybe a 1tb WD Blue HDD (I'd try and do without a HDD. They're loud and annoying, I suggest waiting till you start filing up your SSD and start looking for a cheap SSD for storage at /r/buildapcsales ) .
XXL mousepad I have it, here's a picture of my rig with the mousepad. It was a little too long for me ( I wanted some wood showing on the left side) so I tucked it over and folded it down on the rightside of my desk.
oh, and do you have a Xbox One controller? If not, you might want to get one to game with.
Maybe a desk holder for your headset. That's the one I have
That's all I can think of.
ohh, pick up some tiny zipties at the doller store (smallest ones you can find) for cable management. They come in super handy when building.
You're welcome. PM/comment me anytime if you have any questions or anything
heres a couple
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-EBA01-Aluminum-Headphone/dp/B00KONCCNG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467412265&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=silverstone+headphone+stand
https://www.amazon.com/Woo-Audio-HPS-HS-Aluminum-Headphone/dp/B006KTDXYU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467412354&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=woo+audio+stand
If you want to save space i suggest a holder for under the desk like one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467412509&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=headphone+holder
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Truss-Metal-Headphone-Hanger/dp/B0192P8U5U/ref=pd_sim_23_9?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=412kIGeanDL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=KPV7YWEWFV1D50GQ6Q8A
https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand-Mount/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467412509&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=headphone+holder
i also have another idea which might look good with the wood desk. you could diy a stand with some pipes as well. if you're interested in that i think i could find a different forum post with other people doing that.
good luck with your setup :)
I have a headset hanger at the far end of a 60 inch desk and still manage to bump into it. If I were Drazhi, I'd move it around to the right side of the desk.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LDVQ04/ or https://www.amazon.com/BRAINWAVZ-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28/
You're welcome.
That's a "Brainwavs" headphone clip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012VIWG28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dFnkzbKTTDYQ4
I found this on Amazon, and I've been considering getting it for my SO, but haven't yet. Might be useful for you as well!
This is the headphone stand that I use.
I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/BRAINWAVZ-Hooka-Metal-Headphone-Hanger/dp/B01DNLLTIE/
It's really nice, all metal but expensive, they also have other models.
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28/
https://www.amazon.com/BRAINWAVZ-Truss-Metal-Headphone-Hanger/dp/B0192P8U5U/
Note that the stick-on ones will not stick to most walls, I have mine on the side of my desk which is just your standard particle board + veneer desk.
If you're really cheap you can find a spring clamp at a big box hardware store for a few bucks, it's what I did for a good while.
I think I have the same chair, mouse, vertical monitor and water bottle as you.
Why are your headphones so far away? Fancy one of these?
Here are my $0.02 (obviously any suggestion is personal preference):
&nbsp;
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hengja-Headphone-Desk-Hanger/dp/B012VIWG28/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483227679&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=headphone+stand+clamp
I use one of these suckers.
For headphones, there are many solutions. You could get a headphone holder like this one or this one depending on your situation.
As for controllers, you could put get small plastic containers for them and put them wherever. Personally, I have a drawer dedicated to peripherals and cables and I've been meaning to buy plastic boxes for my mice (mostly to keep them from dusting).
I use this and hang the headset off the side of my desk. (I actually own 2 and have the other one for my headphones)
I use this for the HMD, and this for the controllers. Fairly minimalist, but looks good on/around the desk area.
Look this over.
Rather than go with an all-in-one headset with a crappy mic and crappy speakers, I researched for a couple years then pulled the trigger and haven't been happier. It was 2015 and I spent $245 on my headphone/mic setup. It still feels brand new. Here's what I am using:
To hold the mic cable to the headphone cable I got this AntLion Audio ModMic Accessory Cable Clips $1
I got this hanger so I don't have to have my headphones laying on my desk when not in use: Brainwavz Hengja - The Headphone Desk Hanger $14
prices may have changed
Read the first link to learn about headphones and soundstage vs. "3-D" and "multi-speaker" headsets. Everyone has their biases, but I've been convinced. (source: pc gamer and builder for 27 years)
Amazon
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B012VIWG28/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521582550&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=brainwavz&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41U9neHRCvL&amp;ref=plSrch
This gets you started
https://www.amazon.com/K1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B0189EVGAG/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485208058&amp;sr=8-25&amp;keywords=headphone+dac+amp
Where were you last week?! I just dropped 40 bucks on this. Kinda kicking myself.
I think that the $40 FiiO K1 fits your criteria.
>Are you confident that this could be the solution?
Yes, this is the purpose of an AMP, and all portable DACs have built in AMPs since they are needed for it to work. A portable DAC will connect over USB and output over 3.5mm. A portable AMP will take a 3.5mm in and output over another 3.5mm connector.
Portable DAC & AMP: Fiio K1 (75mW @ 16 Ohms) $39.98
Much more powerful one: Fiio Q1 (190mW @ 32 Ohms) $69.99
Portable AMP only: Fiio A1 (78mW @ 16 Ohmes) $27.99
More powerful one: Fiio A3 (450mW @ 16 Ohmes / 270mW @ 32 Ohmes) $59.99
https://schiit.eu.com probably over $100 with shipping. The FiiO K1 is around $50 https://www.amazon.de/FiiO-K1-Digital-Wandler-Kopfh%C3%B6rerverst%C3%A4rker/dp/B0189EVGAG/ref=sr_1_20?srs=1681735031&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493197023&amp;sr=8-20 96kHz/24bit
Budget: ~$150, maybe $200 maximum.
Source: This is tricky. I recently broke the headphone jack on my phone, so I'm possibly looking into a budget-oriented DAC to use with my Nexus 6, or using an old Galaxy S3 as an mp3 player. Might also try to fix the N6.
Isolation: More would be preferred. I ride the bus a lot.
Type: Around-ear, closed headphones would be best.
Current: Nothing to speak of.
Balance: I definitely enjoy a good amount of bass, and I like a V-shaped response.
Preferred music: I listen to a good variety of music. I'm into a lot of house, but also enjoy some hard rock/punk stuff.
Basically I'm looking for a comfortable fitting headphone with good bass response. I'm not sure if springing for a DAC is worth it, especially as I'll be using these on the bus/on the go and I can't carry around a big DAC, but I'm very open to options (must work with Android).
So far I've looked into ATH-M50x's which seem to be a good fit for what I'm looking for. I tried on a pair recently and they didn't quite have the bass I'm looking for but I'm hoping to boost that a bit with an EQ or DAC.
As for a DAC, the Fiio K1 seems like a good idea but there's mixed responses on Android compatibility.
Thanks in advance!!
This will likely work for you. I use the big brother to this (Q1) and it really improved the sound on my Chromebooks (Flip and Toshiba CB2).
http://www.amazon.com/K1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B0189EVGAG
Alright, well just give them a week or so of listening and then go back and try your other pair of headphones. You should be able to tell a difference.
The only thing I could recommend would be like a portable DAC/AMP along the lines of this but, that's just more money. I'm also not 100% on how well it would help the headphones.
You could try asking over in /r/headphones?
Check out the FiiO K1
https://www.amazon.com/K1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B0189EVGAG
It's a nice addition to your PC audio setup at a very low cost.
i use https://www.amazon.com/K1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B0189EVGAG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487355438&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=fiio+usb+dac in the car, but as of late i havent really been using it. if you like i can sell it to you with usbc > micro usb. message me
I'm not sure if there's a lot of quality headphones in this price range, but this might help.
Alternatively, you may want to look into headphone DACs/Amps, such as:
https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-DAC/dp/B0189EVGAG
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2
http://www.schiit.com/products/fulla-2
They should help with the volume. You could try the free software Peace Equalizer and increase the "preamp" value (be careful, it may cause severe clipping).
something like the Asus xonar U3 for 50 bucks[usd] or less | and an OTG cable.. maybe a rubberband to keep it bundled to phone || here's a really small one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TI6TEU4 || Fiio
https://www.amazon.com/K1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B0189EVGAG/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BBRSX85JMWX8J3C2HNMK
https://www.amazon.com/K1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-DAC/dp/B0189EVGAG - K1 is $40 on Amazon. I'd say go for it, M50x doesn't need a lot to get to its full potential.
Actually, this one: https://www.amazon.ca/K1-Portable-DAC-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0189EVGAG/ref=pd_sim_107_10?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=81ZRXHVCE597A1V26AXF
Clips on nicely to my jeans and I got 2 different sized micro-usb to usb-c cables from Amazon or Monoprice, I forget. A short 6 inch and a longer 3 foot. I use the short one mostly and just clip it to the inner pocket, then run the headphone cable to that.
Advice on the FiiO K1? I just want a usb-3.5mm converter, but an amp/dac at $40 is pretty good as far as I can tell!
Has anyone tried the Fiio K1?
Wondering basically how it stacks up to the more expensive Schiit Fulla or Fiio e10k.
I saw dalethorn's review, he seemed to like it a lot!
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-DAC-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0189EVGAG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452617519&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=dac+amp&amp;refinements=p_72%3A1248879011
Are there any opinions about this?
You may want to read about soundstage vs imaging in headphones. Soundstage being the ability of the headphones to reproduce a sound as being far away from your ears, imaging being the ability to reproduce sounds happening on the "x axis", if you will, with pinpoint accuracy.
Imagine the sound of a fly buzzing from your left ear to your right ear. Good soundstage representation will allow you to tell how far is that fly, while good imaging will let you hear where that fly is at any given moment.
Now, the SHP9500 didn't impress me either, and you have a point on unrealistic expectations. I know for sure my first "good" headphones didn't blow me away.
That being said, your laptop soundcard may be dragging them down a bit. I wouldn't recommend anything more than a Fiio K1 for easy to drive headphones. It's a tiny piece of hardware, but it's way better than any integrated soundcard.
I don't have any experience with the PC360, but both the 598 and the AD series are great headphones. If you plan to use the primarily for gaming, any of the ADx00 would get my vote.
No one needs this, just get a Fiio DAC. It sounds better and is cheap as peanuts.
Never heard it personally, but here are some useful observations:
With this said, I'd recommend going for a Fiio K1 or saving up for a more powerful DAC and amp. Depending on your headphone, you might not even need an amplifier.
What are some other good amps for the DT 770 80 ohms? I got these headphones today and I don't see the great quality everyone is talking about. (Also my first "audiophile" headphones).
I would like to keep the price under $70.
Would the Fiio K1 be good for budget?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0189EVGAG/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1UG27DD7KR2HI
https://www.amazon.com/EarBuddyz-Airpods-Attachment-Earphones-Headphones/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=lp_13889925011_1_1?srs=13889925011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511217471&amp;sr=8-1
Something like this works great when you at the gym.
https://www.amazon.com/EarBuddyz-Airpods-Attachment-Earphones-Headphones/dp/B019BREFE4
Damn, you lost weight in your ears, too! That's crazy. Maybe check out something like these you can add to your EarPods. i don't use them myself but they come built into my Bose earbuds, and they comfortably keep mine in place.
The AirPods also suck for my ears, I find them to fit much better with the foam tips. But I also have a pair of EarBuddyz 2.0 for when I exercise with my Airpods. I wouldn’t trust these foam tips while running. I just love how these foam tips can stay on while in the charging case which is a huge plus in my eyes. Something like the EarBuddyz cannot do that.
Link to the EarBuddyz 2.0 :
https://www.amazon.com/EarBuddyz-Accessories-AirPods-Headphones-Earphones/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=VF6OOAL3H4BE&amp;keywords=earbuddyz+2.0+apple+airpods&amp;qid=1557173437&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=earbudd&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
EarBuddyz 2.0 Ear Hooks and Covers Accessories for Apple AirPods or EarPods Headphones/Earphones/Earbuds (3 Pairs) (Clear) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MU9MBb30TAK4B
Yeah it would look weird but I'm kinda worried that it will slip out. Even though it feels pretty snug. I'm talking about these things:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_LUbEBppM6vXc5
I totally understand. I just looked up the ear hooks I used: EarBuddyz 2.0 Ear Hooks and Covers Accessories Compatible with Apple AirPods 1 & AirPods 2 or EarPods Headphones/ Earphones/ Earbuds (3 Pairs) (Clear) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fQXVDb3H309EM
I use these and love 'em. Unfortunately can't put them in the case but easy enough to slip on and off and they fit snuggly and comfortably in my ear.
i use plain old apple headphones (i switch between airpods and the corded ones) with these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MQ8SCbKR4AM59
and they’ve never fallen out of my ears! i’ve been using them for about a year and I recommend them to all my friends :-)
Screw those, you HAVE to get these. I have large ears and my Airpods would fall right out from WALKING.
With these babies attached to the Airpods, it braces perfectly along the inside of your ear with very soft and comfortable material, and when they are in your ear, you can feel how secure they are without even moving, but to test them I tried shaking, twisting, headbanging, I even did a few cartwheels, and I COULD NOT GET THEM TO FALL OUT OF MY EAR. It was such a liberating moment.
You can thank me later!
Mine stay in my ears fine, but I did buy a pair of these to use when commuting to/from work (I take a train/bus): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019BREFE4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They admittedly take away some of the convenience factor as they don't fit in the charge case, but they help significantly with directing the sound properly into my ears. I've been using the same pair for about a month and haven't noticed any stretching of the silicon so far.
I've been using the basic apple headphones with these to help keep them in place. Cheaper option that has worked so far.
If you have an iPhone, the AirPods are amazing. I use them with these and they stay in place perfectly. No signal drop (which I saw with the Bose ones).
Here you are. It's really nice, DAC+headphones amp. It's the best (only?) option in this price bracket.
Will this dac work well with the dt 770 pro 250 ohms? do I need an amp aswell?
Hey everyone, I just purchased the SMSL M3 AMP/DAC and i'm constantly hearing white noise when I have no audio playing, it's driving me crazy!
I'm very disappointed by this, because I bought this DAC to solve the distortions and popping my PC's onboard audio was causing... while it did fix that, I got white noise in return for it...
The knob on the DAC never has to go above 25% for it to drive my M50x(38 Ohm) headphones. Could this be the issue, that the M50x is too sensitive?
I'm currently running the power and audio over USB-A to mini-USB from my PC into the DAC. I tried using another cable but it didn't help.
This DAC also supports SPDIF Toslink, would using that input fix the white noise? I want to buy a Toslink cable, but I don't even know if that would fix the problem
DAC : https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O
AMP : https://www.amazon.com/Bravo-Audio-Ocean-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QKSVI
is this any good ?
My personal favorite is the SMSL M3.
Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O
Z Review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QwD5Byp1AU
It's basically the E10K but with a wider variety of options, and (in my opinion) a cleaner sound. The E10K was a gift and a great starting option, but I personally appreciate the M3 more.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/smsl-m3-dac-amp
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O
The SMSL M3 is really a DAC based Headphone amp that also appears to have Pre-Amp capability.
But your statement - Will my DAC output signal to both the front connector and the back? - is vague and unclear. Are you asking if you can listen to music on the speaker AND the headphones, the answer is very likely YES.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QwD5Byp1AU
What you have to determine is whether the Audio Out RCA connectors are Pre-Amp Outs which can be controlled by the volume control, or whether they are FIXED Line Level Outputs. I would make the most sense if they are Pre-Amp out, which is why I say you can listen to speakers and headphones at the same time. But, it my quick search, I haven't been able to confirm it.
Sure Try this SMSL DAC/AMP
or This one
Thanks! I'm currently looking at the SMSL M3 (link to shenzhenaudio) as I am using optical in. From the listed specs this should work similar to your suggestions?
if you want a tube amp, then look for a little dot:
https://www.amazon.com/Little-Dot-6JI-standard-Headphone/dp/B00A2QM5O6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541588044&sr=8-5&keywords=little+dot&dpID=41VfvJT3eeL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
If you just want something cheap to properly power your headphones, get a cheap dac/amp like smsl, or the fiio e10k:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1541588108&sr=8-13&keywords=smsl
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541588171&sr=8-3&keywords=fiio
they will sound much better then that cheap hybrid or a phone, but they are obviously not the best thing ever.
SMSL Audio M3 USB Powered Audio Decoder, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pW04BbB8S5RCK
cheap dac, might need a separate amp for 300ohm headphones
SMSL Sanskrit 6th 32bit/192kHz USB/Optical/Coaxial to Analog Audio Decoder (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SY9RBOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FZ04BbTT8PZAG
harder to find longer to ship dac and amp combo
but will most likely be enough for you to power your 6xx, if you wanted too you could get the o2 amp if you had extra money and that would be most them enough amp.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/smsl-m6-dac-amp?utm_source=shopping&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=1565854957&amp;utm_term=60393664758&amp;utm_content=295242953181&amp;utm_keyword=&amp;utm_placement=pla-520538315942&amp;utm_network=g:m::1o3&amp;utm_device=&amp;gclid=CjwKCAiAt4rfBRBKEiwAC678KUMxZ-9pFEfGTGKCvcK_sMzZ4JQ1e03DWHsJYr2GdSb3PLj_OqrvMxoCWVYQAvD_BwE
also this, not bad for massdrop
Looking to use the micro USB port on the back of this SMSL Audio M3 USB Powered Audio Decoder, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_-7V2CbF7TZHW6 to and from my pc while i use the optical port to and from my ps4 and then into my speakers so i can switch between the 2
I hope this is the right place to post this, but I'm looking to buy my first DAC/amp. I've only ever used desktop/laptop/phone outputs and want to upgrade. I wanted to buy a DAC/amp combo rather than a dedicated DAC and dedicated amp for a few reasons: (but I'm open to being convinced otherwise)
Budget: ~$100 max, preferably less
Source: Almost exclusively my desktop.
Current Headphones: ATH M40x and SHP 9500s. I know that these are super easy to power, but I'm looking to gain some improvement while also future proofing for when I buy something more demanding.
I'm currently looking at a few devices, but open to other suggestions:
I like that this one is small (and therefore easily transported). I became interested in it after watching a rave review by Zeos. The only negatives I see are a lack of output options (not currently an issue, but might be in the future) and the fact that it uses 3.5 mm headphone out (I much prefer 1/4").
I've seen mixed reviews for this one, but it's currently on sale and seems like a great value. Not sure how great it would do with my current low impedance headphones. I like the design and output options.
Like I said, I'm open to other suggestions in the $70-$100 range.
No...I'm not streaming MQA. My DAC is low-end. Just wondering if something I should try figure out or is it not that big of a deal?
I bit the bullet and ordered!
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O.
It has all you listed right?
Tror du skulle klara dig med typ denna: https://www.amazon.de/SMSL-M3-Verst%C3%A4rker-mit-Kopfh%C3%B6rer-schwarz/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536077031&amp;sr=8-15&amp;keywords=smsl
SMSL är ett kina-budgetmärke, men de använder sig av högklassiga komponenter så de presterar väldigt bra för priset. Klivet till ännu bättre skulle enligt mig ligga mer i 2500-kronors prisklassen.
I denna får du både inbyggd USB DAC (så du får bättre ljud än från datorn) och hörlursförstärkare (så du kan driva typ vilka hörlurar som helst och spela hög volym med) för en billig peng.
Edit: Den jag länkade verkar inte Amazon skicka till Sverige, dock finns det visst andra säljare som gör det (fast då får man ju ingen fri frakt). Eventuellt kan du hitta någon annan DAC av SMSL...
Neither of them give specific information on their DAC chips/audio codecs.
If I had to guess, I'd say the Dell has the better sound. A cheap external DAC/AMP like this would outperform both.
Get an external DAC/amp. This one takes all kinds of digital inputs at a decent price: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/
Super fedt. Det vil jeg undersøge nærmere. Står du stadig ved din anbefaling? Jeg har nemlig også lade mig fortælle på en anden thread, at SMSL AUDIO M3 (https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/) kunne være super god at investere i. Vil begge disse tilføre nogenlunde den samme forbedrede lydoplevelse?
Og lige inden jeg glemmer; hvad er leveringstiden på den hollandske side du nævnte?
Mvh
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O
A better $80 has never been spent if you are an audiophile. This gets you 95% of the way to pro gear for 5% of the cost.
This looks like almost exactly the same as the https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O but missing two ports and with hopefully better quality control.
Can someone here tell me why, if I am driving my old AKG k712 why I would need the magni/modi stack instead of this?
Looking to get my first DAC/amp combo to get the best output I can on my 598s. I'm having trouble deciding between the SMSL M3, the Fiio 10K, The Micca Origen +, or the new Schiit Fulla 2. Not looking to spend more than 100 atm so I'm just looking for advice on which to get as my first DAC/amp combo. If there is something better out there too that I might be missing please leave recommendations. A lot of the guides and forums that I visited don't say much about the Fulla 2 and how it compares in that price range so any help would be greatly appreciated.
This looks like it could be a perfect substitute for the AudioEngine D1. It has a coax input (which the D1 doesn't), a quarter inch headphone output (Better than the D1's 3.5mm) and is half the price.
Brother got me a Audio Interface for Christmas just as I was looking to get a DAC/Amp combo. Is an interface a replacement for the DAC/Amp, or would it still do me some good to get a combo unit anyway?
I've tried looking into it but have found no definite answer to my question.
The interface I was given
The combo I was looking to buy
Those 731i are not bad speakers and are being underpowered by that Kenwood system.
The few quality combo amp/dac units in the UK start at 360 BP and go up from there. Like the Emotiva TA-100 and the SMSL A6.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/A6-COAXIAL-Integrated-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B01KJJ43AO/
http://www.audiologica.co.uk/emotiva/emotiva-basx-ta100.html
https://www.audiovisualonline.co.uk/product/41784/emotiva-black-basx-ta-100-integrated-stereo-amplifier/
This combo unit is cheaper but not as nice with likely overestimated power:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Q5-Coaxial-Optical-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B015ZHZG1K/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AD18-Bluetooth-Digital-Decoding-Amplifier/dp/B01MY96MKC/
I would suggest a separate amp and DAC because the selection of combo units at that price is not great.
If you can manage a full size integrated amp under your desk, try this since it has a remote and better than most desktop size units:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Denon-PMA720AE-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B007Y3OBIS/
If small is required then:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SA-98E-TDA7498E-Stereo-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B015J0P7VM/
And a small DAC:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Decoder-Optical-Coaxial-Asynchronous-Converter/dp/B00PS0WLX6/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/M6-Asynchronous-Integrated-Headphone-Black/dp/B015J0QAN6/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/M3-Optical-Coaxial-Function-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O
At 300BP there are some good choices for speakers:
Monitor Audio Bronze 2
Elac B6
Polk Audio S15
Maybe Dali Zensor 3 or KEF Q100 if you can find them at a good price.
Avantree Universal Solid Steel Headphone Stand Hanger with Cable Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A09KCJ4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
At least that's what I have
Just a cheap one off of Amazon.
Neetto Universal Aluminum Desk... https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B01A09KCJ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
for the keyboard, you can get the Anne pro 2 or the Drevo Blademaster pro (Both can be used wired and wireless) and if your ok using Romer-G switch and no RGB the Logitech G613 is great (feels like brown switches). If you want a good headphone stand here are a couple of suggestions
Desktop stands
https://www.amazon.ca/Headphone-Wooden-Headset-Showing-Display/dp/B07JPJGK97/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=headphone+stand&qid=1565839463&s=gateway&sr=8-8
https://www.amazon.ca/MoKo-Headphone-Universal-Thickness-Sennheiser/dp/B07H5CRW1R/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=headphone+stand&pd_rd_i=B07H5CRW1R&pd_rd_r=46b05a34-9229-49b3-9a54-0d15f269bfbe&pd_rd_w=8u3r1&pd_rd_wg=GZlWn&pf_rd_p=25609a94-16af-4bd7-9107-c9f01f8c9bd0&pf_rd_r=6Q64A1W0HHZAMZZ5E9P5&qid=1565839490&s=gateway
https://www.amazon.ca/Avantree-Universal-Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica/dp/B01A09KCJ4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=headphone+stand&qid=1565839542&s=gateway&sr=8-3
desk mount stands
https://www.amazon.ca/Avantree-Universal-Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica/dp/B077MBVHP7/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=headphone%2Bstand&qid=1565839542&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1
https://www.amazon.ca/Anchor-ORIGINAL-Under-Desk-Headphone-Stand/dp/B00P31BMHG/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=headphone%2Bstand&qid=1565839542&s=gateway&sr=8-15&th=1
Haven't tried it yet, but I'm thinking something shaped like a headphone stand might work?
Sorry about that. Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Universal-Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica/dp/B01A09KCJ4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Amazon sells it. I have the same one. I like it. Avantree HS102 - https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Headphones/dp/B01A09KCJ4
you liked my idea then :)
1- https://www.amazon.com/AmoVee-Acrylic-Headphone-Stand-Black/dp/B00SGW9QLS
2- https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Headphones/dp/B01A09KCJ4
Random one off Amazon UK: Avantree Headphone Stand https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01A09KCJ4/
This one
u/One78
I got it from amazon, here ya go!
http://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Universal-Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica/dp/B01A09KCJ4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
This one!
https://www.amazon.es/dp/B01A09KCJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bWP5CbCTAX52N
The brand is avantree
There are lots of Omega Symbol headphone stands out there. If it's too big, this might benefit your space more.
This is the headphone stand that I have, I hang it by the band
Avantree Aluminum Headphone Stand Headset Hanger with Cable Holder for Sennheiser, Sony, Audio-Technica, Bose, Beats, AKG, Gaming Headset Display - HS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A09KCJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mMNVwvHVSYky1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A09KCJ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Not necessary but they do look nice. I bought this one from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A09KCJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not too pricey, and it looks good IMO.
Plenty more to choose from if that one doesn't suit your taste.
Headphone Stand
It's not a bad headphone stand, the only issue is that it looks a little misleading. The bottom isn't solid aluminum (or whatever metal it's made of), it's like a piece of straight aluminum that's bent if you can picture that, then the bottom silicone piece sits on top of the bottom "foot".
It's just not as sturdy as it appears to be in pics, but still def worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A09KCJ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01A09KCJ4/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Amazon. It gets the job done, and nothing more.
I would go with the 598s, but the SHP9500 has better soundstage supposedly, but aren't as good in quality as the 598s from what I've heard. Now that being said both of those Headphones have low barriers of entry and you could literally just plug them into your controller. If you wanted a little more power you could get a small portable amp that could sit in your lap or pocket that could connect up to the controller (they are pretty cheap) the only pain is that you have to charge them every couple days. But with that setup you could also take either of those cans and hook them up to the amp with your phone for on the go music. Then once you have the "bug" ... I mean money you can get a better amp/dac/headphone, and then later on when you save some more money you can get an even better setup, and then later..... you get the point ;)
here is a relatively cheap and decent starter amp that would work with the scenario I was telling you about: https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-A1-Silver-Portable-Headphone/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519398985&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=portable+headphone+amp
It should be manageable without an amp, but if you like, I'd suggest a small, inexpensive one like the FIIO A1.
I'd say go ahead and buy the headphones. If it doesn't work as well as you like, you can always return it.
Maybe a headphone amplifier for his headset? I was given a Fiio and it was the absolutely best thing to be married with my reference headphones. I didn't get this model but there are some like it. They are rechargeable.
For under 100EUR I would definitelt stick to wired and go with the Audio Technica ATH M40X.
The problem here is that the S7 Edge has an insanely bad headphone output and is only able to output 360mV into a 16 Ohm load (~8 milli watt). The phone is absolute trash tier when it comes to the headphone output. And that alrady low output power is topped off by ,ore than 5 Ohm output impedance and 0.7%THD at full volume...absolute garbage
I recommend you buy a FiiO A1 headphone amplifier to go with the M40X. That would also fix your volume issue on the one more triple driver.
That would mean investing ~130EUR...the same price as a decent entry level Bluetooth headphone from Sennheiser.
IMHO the M40X sounds better than the HD4.40 and you won't run into battery/codec or lag issues.
My budget is kind of low right now since I bought the PS4 along with a few games. Do you think something like this would help a little? or maybe a usb adapter? Maybe I could find some better through black friday sales.
Edit : or maybe something like (this)[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BMG9TB/ref=psdc_3015427011_t2_B01DLY3IW8). I know you might not be an expert. Sorry for so many questions.
I use these for work as well, but inline with a FiiO A1, it's a really small cheap and not very powerful amp (but it's insanely portable and out of the way - https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-A1-Silver-Portable-Headphone/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474000567&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=fiio&amp;th=1 ). I find if you turn the A1 up about 70% (they start to get a lot of noise if you go much higher) they seem like they help clean the noise up and give a bit more clarity. The low end's sound a lot less compressed on that little amp for some reason. I sort of chalked it up to the audio source not having enough power behind it, the mids and high's still aren't quite as crisp as some of the other earphones I've tried, but it seems to make it a lot better IMO.
This is the one.
get a super cheap amp and put it in line, after the splitter to the chair. The chair doesn't need high quality audio going to it, so pick up the cheapest one you can find. here is a good option https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-A1-Silver-Portable-Headphone/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499716048&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=headphone+amp
For my Pixel, it wouldn't power my iems well enough so I bought one of these, https://www.amazon.com/A1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Silver/dp/B01CPUVPEM.
Its just a tiny amp that will help but you can also get bigger ones if your trying to listen to music through your headphones as well.
Couldn't you just buy an amplifier?
edit: something like this if left plugged in might work...
https://www.amazon.com/A1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Silver/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=pd_sbs_107_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01CPUVPEM&amp;pd_rd_r=QHHXQMAKEX6BBSAEJH3D&amp;pd_rd_w=rn4dS&amp;pd_rd_wg=2tUsq&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=QHHXQMAKEX6BBSAEJH3D
If you have the budget for a bit more, you can buy an analog amp (like the FiiO A1 ) and have your motherboard for the signal. And buy a dac+amp(soundcard) in the future.
No but I am going to get this one for the amp https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-A1-Silver-Portable-Headphone/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8.
Do you think OHM difference could mess up my mixing judgment?
There's no good way to do it honestly.
Theoretically the best way would be to use RCA cables (Wii Composite) and convert to 3.5mm and amp it, but WiiU's don't have that on by default.
You could also use the headphone jack on a monitor/Gamepad and amp it as needed, but that can be inconsistent by monitor/TV
The way to garuntee getting audio at every setup is to get an HDMI audio extractor and run it through a headphone amp if you need some extra volume
Lol "keep the levels reasonable"
I think an xmas present to myself i'm gonna buy myself:
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481396030&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=audio+technica+m50x
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00MFMW29I/ref=pd_sim_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00MFMW29I&amp;pd_rd_r=QJNK9NQ15MYEEZS38RBN&amp;pd_rd_w=Ume8K&amp;pd_rd_wg=Vo3KE&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=QJNK9NQ15MYEEZS38RBN
or:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=psdc_13880161_t1_B0189EVGAG
I would say no. The momentum's are nice headphones but are aimed at listeners who will not use an Amp or DAC. It may still enhance sound a bit to add a DAC/Amp though. If you have your heart set on it try these: https://www.amazon.com/A1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Silver/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480566708&amp;sr=1-3-catcorr&amp;keywords=fiio+amp
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00MFMW29I/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480566764&amp;sr=1-18&amp;keywords=DAC+amp
Just to be sure, this is the FiiO A1 you're talking about? Just curious as it's really small and every other AMP seems to be enormous compared to it.
Right now, my DT770 are connected directly to my Macbook Pro mid 14.
You may want to consider an amplifier. I've got an older version of this one that I use when traveling, it is fantastic:
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-A1-Silver-Portable-Headphone/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526402815&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=headphone+amp+fiio
This one however, is cheaper and is pretty well reviewed on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/BoomCloud-BoomStick-Headphone-Enchancer-Processor/dp/B01BW8TDTW/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526402745&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=headphone+amp
Will this amp do anything for Bose AE2i and Bose FreeStyle earbuds? I'm not an audiophile at all but I was just wondering if these would help.
I would be listening through my iPhone 5s or my laptop, the Dell i7559
Thanks
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure that won't be enough for the 250 ohm model. I'm not sure about the 80 ohm model but this one will have no problems with the 80ohm and can be had for 30 €
https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B01CPUVPEM/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?qid=1464205514&amp;sr=8-11&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=fiio
my 2014 ghost can power my audiotechnicas (38Ω) okay, i just purchased a FiiO A1 because they were loud but not loud enough. your headphones are 300Ω so i would defiantly pick up an A1 or mabe something nicer if you want to spend the money. also i just realized the the newer models could be better at powering headphones then mine, but i would still pick up a small amp
If your headphones aren't powered, chances are that the device you are listening on isn't putting out enough power to give you heavy bass (especially if it's a phone or laptop). I also thought my headphones sounded completely flat until I plugged them into a system that could provide the proper output. Maybe think about getting an inexpensive amplifier similar to https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01CPUVPEM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 to see if that makes a difference.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CPUVPEM/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_bwErZ_g23_i6?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-3&amp;pf_rd_r=A5RNY33Y11RFV8JV1NWM&amp;pf_rd_t=30901&amp;pf_rd_p=423da5fa-66e9-5748-b29f-d6618506fd3f&amp;pf_rd_i=13880161
this would be better, the used ones start at $18. I'm not sure about the card. usually the main point of a card is just to be a dac, not actually power headphones. my mobo supports "600 ohms" of power but without a wattage figure that doesn't mean anything.
What is your budget?
For example the objective 2 & odac is a great headphone/dac combo that will manage most difficult to drive headphones https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-o2-sdac-dac-amp
For less, look into the audioquest dragonfly https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI
Is this the one you are talking about?
While I don't have any advice to get your on-board audio working, I gave up on mine and just got an AudioQuest Dragonfly usb DAC. Plug and play ease and sounds way better than my on-board audio ever could.
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-USB-Converter/dp/B01DP5JHHI
Yeah, both the normalized matrix and windows sound loudness equalizer basically does what AVR Recievers have with a day/evening/night setting..... Again, you're throwing filters and tons of random options for the regular people out there, but you wanted to get the best quality.
I don't think it makes a big difference, or any at all but make in sound/config that your speakers are small. I've messed with that config for years and it doesn't work like a proper AVR does but it's worth a shot.
If you do want your volume up, where that matrix was use the clipping but I just ran a test and man I had to blast my AVR's AMP that could blow out so many headphones it's not even funny with the 50x compared to the 650's, they are a bitch to drive and the onboard sound which I have the same chipset and by the #'s looks like yours could be better, but it won't matter because onboard has always sucked.
You can go cheap and get your very basic ones that will do the job but with the atx-50's I wouldn't expect a massive difference because even with my wall wart amp I wish I could push it just a bit more, but these will help 100% for sure and also if you have a phone/laptop etc...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP5JHHI/
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/
I'd save the money you would spend on that though and put it to something that will last you the next 15 years.
I'll make another post about MadVR
How about the Fulla Schiit? https://www.schiit.com/products/fulla-1
Or Dragonfly Black? https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI
welcome to the hi-fi rabbit hole! here, you can spend thousands (if not tens of thousands) of dollars on things with barely (if any) discernible differences! You're correct in assuming a dedicated DAC/Amp would help here - all 3.5mm jacks drive electrical signals which, in the case of headphones, directly drive the drivers which produce sound waves your ears can hear. The DAC in most high end smartphones, motherboards, etc are pretty good - but audio equipment is often skimped on to hit a price point.
I'd highly recommend a mini USB DAC with a decent driver like the audioquest dragonfly which balances the price/performance/convenience equation really well, imo. https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
I am looking for a DAC/amp to pair with my new AKG K702 cans. Would love to stay at the 100 euro range - give or take 20€.
I have a couple of candidates - which one would be the best to go with the K702, if any? Any other recommendations?
FiiO E10K (Link)
Nuforce uDAC3 (Link)
AudioQuest - DragonFly USB DAC (Link)
Procaster DAC-03 (Link) - sorry, the manufacturer and seller is Finnish. Specs are as follows:
Have a look at the Behringer UCA202 (cheap and still OK, but bulky), or some other USB DAC in the meantime.
There's also this and (my recommendation, if you can afford it) this. They'll give you way better sound than any laptop can provide, and they'll be completely free from any crackling or interference of any kind since they're outside of the computer.
Either this:
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01DP5JHHI
Or this:
http://schiit.com/products/fulla-2
No matter what headphones you get, I recommend to everyone the AudioQuest DragonFly Black USB DAC. It has made such a huge difference in audio quality that I can't imagine going without it.
Combine that with the Audio Technica ATH-M40x. Here's a review from YouTube's favorite headphone geek: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6wBv03B1nk
I would purchase either Audioquest’s Dragonfly Black @ $99 USD or Dragonfly Red @ $199 USD. They’re a USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp. I own the Red and love it! It’ll improve the sound quality and drive your cans better!
Here’s the link Amazon for the Black:
AudioQuest DragonFly Black v1.5 Plug-in USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Zbm3CbXXB9HTY
If it fits your budget, the Red gives you more bang-for-the-buck in my opinion. They’ll detail the differences in description.
From my current knowledge, there's not a huge difference between integrated sound and buying a separate sound card anymore. So, generally what you're looking for is a good pair of headphones foremost, and then into DACs/AMPs. There's plenty of them combined into one device.
This or This are what I'd recommend for something that'd actually make a difference at a lower price point.
I'm unsure of headphones because I don't know what you'd want out of them. All headphones do something a bit different or have different sound profiles. These are what I have. I found these on sale on Amazon so those might also interest you.
I'm not much of an audiophile so anyone that knows more feel free to correct me!
Realistically the DACs are not necessary if you don't want to, a good pair of headphones will do you just fine.
Right now you're using a very low quality digital to analog converter that takes sound info in your laptop and converts to analog waves that your speakers can output. Probably the most obvious upgrade to your system would be to upgrade your DAC. Something like one of these:
https://www.schiit.com/products/modi-1 or
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=asc_df_B01DP5JHHI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193992629021&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17903776336152944701&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027973&hvtargid=pla-318385572452&psc=1
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Like what other redditors have said, the problem is gonna be your source, not the vehicle. I'd reccomend looking for a portable external DAC/Amp. For example I use an audioquest dragonfly red but that might be a little overkill for you. Try looking into the black version it's a little cheaper, or maybe check out some options from Fiio. Dont worry if it says headphone amp, itll still function just fine for loudspeaker applications.
A DAC is almost invariably going to be an upgrade over built-in audio. Better parts, much better isolation (since it's outside the case), better amplification as well (since you'll most likely want to go for a DAC/headphone amp combo).
There's no "best" DAC though, it's a massive market with hundreds of products. Depends on your budget and location (since not all products are available everywhere).
With the price of your headphones, I'd probably look around the $100 price range. The Schiit Fulla 2 is a good example, or the AudioQuest DragonFly for something a bit more portable (but not as powerful).
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01DP5JHHI
Type linux under
Customer Questionsand this'll come up:> “Works great with Linux and Android. The output sounds markedly better than the output from any built-in headphone jack I've tried.”
I think if it works on Android it will most likely work on linux.
P.S. I have the same headphones and they are my favorite!
alright after thinking about it a lot i was gontna suggest either hyprex cloud 2+ cheap adapter or hifiman edition S and a mic+ cheap adapter but the adaper will make everything sound awful,
i think your absolute best audio option around that budget is really hard to get in your state with no jack but i think i got smth really nice for 187 or 200 depending on the mic, Phillips SHP9500 - 70$, an Audioquest DragonFly - 100$ which is a better source for your audio and a Vmoda Boompro Mic - 30$ or this Sony clip on mic - 17$
First, everyone saying you won't hear a difference, is full of it. Not a difference from 24/48 to 24/96 mind you, but you WILL hear a difference going from whatever DAC and amplification your monitor is supplying your headphones, to equipment designed solely to perform these tasks. The jump from the monitor to even a dragonfly will be huge, but the jump to end game level equipment like THX AAA amps and a high quality DAC like a Geshelli labs, or SMSL SU-8 will be life changing, and you'll go down a path that will lead to you spending way too much money on headphones. I'm currently on this path, and it's glorious, but your family/friends might think you're insane for spending thousands on headphones.
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You need a DAC and amp. I don't know how seriously you are taking sound quality, but there are a number of combo units that are fairly cheap, probably best for your situation if money is tight, being a student I know the struggles, so you should get the Audioquest Dragonfly. It's a DAC and amp in one tiny USB stick sized device, supports 24/96 (I think that's its highest supported quality) and it's only $99. There are other versions that are better, and more expensive, but if you're gonna spend more than 100$, or want some reference for the future then.....well, read the rest of my comment.
Audioquest Dragonfly https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI?th=1
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If you are willing to spend a little more, and are a little more serious about headphones, I recommend the JDS Labs atom headphone amp, it's VERY good especially at the 100$ price point. As far as dac just get something like a Schiit Modi 3, also 100$.
JDS Labs Atom amp https://jdslabs.com/product/atom-amp/
Schiit Modi 3 DAC https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Modi-Converter-Delta-Sigma-DAC/dp/B07KWHWV1M/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=schiit+modi+3&qid=1569914940&sr=8-1
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If you're really serious about headphone quality, and want end game level equipment, and money is no object I recommend the THX AAA amps, they are superb and vastly outperform anything else on the market in terms of harmonic distortion and noise floor. They are a bit hard to get right now because of demand, massdrop isn't shipping their 789's out until late November, and Monoprice isn't getting their new model 887 in until around the same time. The only option is to buy used, but everyone is asking for a small premium because of the scarcity, and demand. They're 400$ MSRP, used it's like 420-450. Monoprice has another model however, it's the one I currently have and I LOVE it, it's a balanced DAC and balanced AMP in one unit, and it's 500$, the Monolith THX AAA 788. With it you don't need anything else, and it sounds....well it sounds like whatever you're listening to, because it has such low levels of distortion (well below what is even noticeable by human hearing), it's truly source perfect.
As far as DAC to pair with something like a THX amp, there are a number of options, but Geshelli labs makes a good balanced DAC that's only $180 I believe (if you go balanced amp, like the THX, you'll need a balanced DAC to get balanced output, and you'll need a balanced cable from your headphones to the amp)
The Monolith THX 788 DAC/AMP https://www.amazon.com/Monolith-124459-Headphone-Amplifier-Technology/dp/B07KQW1WFX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=monolith+thx&qid=1569914858&sr=8-1
Drop THX 789 AMP https://drop.com/buy/drop-thx-aaa-789-linear-amplifier
Geshelli Labs balanced DAC https://geshelli.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fenog2-pro-dac-purple-case
I picked up a pair of M50xs for work, but my work laptop uses Realtek driver 6.0.1.6914 from 2013, and this just isn't keeping up at all with the quality of my 598s and Asus STX II audio card at home. Everything I've seen places these two headphones around the same in terms of quality, so I don't think its the headphones themselves. On this laptop, the sound is just....scratchy, I guess is the best word for it. A little muddy as well. Now that I've heard better, certain bassy songs are actually uncomfortable and distracting to listen to. The same music on my home setup sounds significantly better.
What I want to know is whether or not I can expect to hear an improvement if I grab a lower-end DAC/AMP like the Dragonfly, or if I'm going to need to push my budget higher. Is Realtek any good versus lower end options?
Just bought hd598s, sound pretty good but I'm having a few issues.
Anything i can do to fix these issues? I know it's not the headphones cause they work properly on other things like my iphone or other computer. Friend told me i should get this and my problems would go away
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DP5JHHI/ref=pd_cp_0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=1ZXVXHW24T1W1H38WJW5
Issue is I'm kind of strapped for cash, also need a mic which will probably cost me about 50. Any solutions?
you could get a lightning to usb splitter cable, plug an external USB DAC/amp into one end, and you should be able to charge off the other plug. I will admit that I haven't tested this and I don't have much experience with the lightning standard.
A good DAC(something like this) will invariably sound better than the embedded one being removed from the iphone but this isn't a cheap solution.
Mine isn't an amp, it's just a USB DAC that decodes the audio at a higher quality than the internal DAC in the phone.
I think I've decided on this, though there are a few other case options on Amazon:
POWER A Storage Case for PSVR - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lwtFyb63SG9AK
I think if I protect the headset with that, I can safely tuck it into my carry-on.
Storage Case for PSVR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WG1fAbAF0WQ58
I had gotten it price matched to $9.99 yesterday with GameStop at Best Buy so I could get free shipping, $10.99 isn't bad though. It's also on Amazon for $10.99 and isn't an addon item this time around. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6?
Just buy a PSVR storage case for $10.00, it's on sale on Amazon right now. Decent price so snag one now if you can.
https://www.amazon.com/PowerA-Storage-Case-PSVR-playstation-4/dp/B01LB4KHF6/
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pretty sure its the powerA one from amazon for 25 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/PowerA-Storage-Case-PSVR-playstation-4/dp/B01LB4KHF6
I use this ($20 during BF sales) to keep the headset safe when not using, in the enclosed shelf of my tv stand. Also use it for the intended purpose of taking it with me to friends' homes with PS4s (I put the breakout box, cables, and move controllers, in a small messenger bag).
I use this to charge the two move controllers that came with the bundle, and keep it on a side table in my living room. Sometimes I turn them on just for the pretty blue lighting.
In Canada, it looks like they will be stocking this VR charging station instead: http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/collective-minds-collective-minds-ps4-vr-charging-stand-183654000814/10488778.aspx
(picture if you can't get on the Canadian site)
I have the Dualshock charger you linked and will miss the way it chargers, but the VR charging station doing everything and having a spot for my headset seems like a no brainer. That, and it's $39.99CAD ($29.84USD).
It's either that, or I'll get the original Move charger and a VR carrying case to keep all of the dust away from the unit.
Case 1: https://www.amazon.com/Industries-PlayStation-Headset-Accessories-Deluxe-Carrying/dp/B01LB4KJ90 (would be useful if I wanted to bring it to a friend's place)
Case 2: https://www.amazon.com/POWER-Storage-Case-PSVR-PlayStation-4/dp/B01LB4KHF6
Hmm I wonder if this one fits.idint have this one hopefully someone can confirm for us if this fits.PowerA Storage Case for PSVR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_X-pMDbRQXNBXJ
I use the PowerA case. Best Buy had it on sale for $10 a while back. Doesn’t look like they even carry it now. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/
I bought this for my psvr and I love it. There is also a pouch inside to keep the cable from touching the lenses. It's pretty nice for the price, but won't hold anything except the HMD. I use my laptop bag to carry my PS4, processing unit, camera, cables and controllers when I need to transport everything.
Storage Case for PSVR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ohwYzbAEJC3DF
I tend to stick to Nyko charging docks for all our consoles - well designed and reliable. For our PS4 Pro I originally got the Nyko DS4 Charging Block: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1WR47G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
When we got the PSVR I added a block for the Move controllers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WVJ1VHR/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They all lock together as one unit with a single power cord. I looked at but didn’t like the tower options. I wanted to keep my headset protected and dust free when I’m not using it so opted for this case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LB4KHF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The case is great - drop the headset and close the cover. No need to unplug anything because it closes nice band snug without bothering with the zipper.
This is the case for those who are interested
That price though. I'd rather just use this one and bag the rest up. I actually keep it in this (unzipped but shut) when I'm not using it. Was $13.99 when I got it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LB4KHF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-Compact-AirPods-PENDING-Connector/dp/B01LVZ4SXN
Stupid Amazon listing, white objects photographed on white background.
Original Brand | Amazon Storefront
Not fake, also as stated above, not Apple... LOL you bought Apple products and admitted it.
He forgot his airpod straps -
https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-AirPods-PENDING-Connector-Airpods/dp/B01LVZ4SXN
Yeah totally get that. This is what I use for those situations where I think I may lose them. I don’t need it that often though
Spigen TEKA RA100 AirPods Strap Never Lose Your AirPods PATENT PENDING Air Pods Strap Wire Cable Connector for Apple Airpods - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZ4SXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TMvOAbTCVWW21
Introducing the Airpod Strap!
https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-AirPods-PENDING-Connector-Airpods/dp/B01LVZ4SXN
Have been anticipating the AirPods for long!
Spigen AirPods Strap Never Lose Your AirPods PATENT PENDING iPhone 7 / iPhone 7 Plus Air Pods Strap Wire Cable Connector for
Apple Airpods - Exclusive for Apple iPhone 7 / iPhone 7 Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZ4SXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oN2qybHA8J2J9
^^Have had those staring back at me for weeks...
Can't wait to shred hard w/ the AirPods!
Sauce:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZ4SXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VY7QDbFH6ZYGE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LVZ4SXN
i got this one and i like it quite a bit. it is a simple design but the build quality is solid. once on the airpods it holds nice and tight so no worry of them just falling out.
This is from Spigen and they have 50% right now.
Here is link if someone interested: It's only $9.99 now.
Darn it, if I'd seen this yesterday it could have saved me $11.
Yes! I go running with them in and I've not had a problem yet. Even if you were worried about it you could always buy one of these for $10
love the amazon reviews :)
https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-AirPods-PENDING-Connector-Airpods/product-reviews/B01LVZ4SXN/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_summary?ie=UTF8&amp;reviewerType=all_reviews&amp;showViewpoints=1&amp;sortBy=helpful
Try this, it splits the mic/audio jacks.
Most PC's won't get microphone audio from a combined headphone/mike plug. Some PC's made in the last few years do.
You need a splitter so that you have seperate headphone and microphone plugs. You probably got one in the box with the headset when you bought it.
https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518945174&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=headphone+microphone+splitter&amp;psc=1
You would need something like this. Although your headset may have included one, check the box.
You don't need any of the above. You need like $10 in cables.
Headset Splitter Cable for PC 3.5mm Jack Headphones Adapter Convertors for PC 3.5mm Female with Headphone/Microphone transform to 2 Dual 3.5mm Male for Computer Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OMIjDb67CJ06F
Go to the dollar store and buy a male to male audio cable and plug it into both jacks. Google assistant might freak out for a minute (it does on my phone anyway). You'll need to adjust audio to avoid blowing out the sound (60 to 75% works pretty well) but it works great.
Here's proof it works.
https://youtu.be/XXyPRzileOE
Headset Splitter Cable for PC 3.5mm Jack Headphones Adapter Convertors for PC 3.5mm Female with Headphone/Microphone transform to 2 Dual 3.5mm Male for Computer Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WF1vDbBF4RARJ
Yeah you just need to find a splitter it's a small cable you can put your head phone jack into and then it splits into to different jacks one for microphone and audio so you can use your headphones.
Edit: found a link for an splitter to help better explain what I mean: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5kZ0AbZAH9V6Z
You mean like this?
Hey yeah I actually found one that worked.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a8HkzbY52Y63J
So I used to have a similar setup. I had by headset and then a 2.1 speaker setup. Both ran off 3.5mm. What I did is I ran my headset cable to somewhere easily reachable. For me, it was secured to the underside of my desk, but out of sight. Then, I ran both the headset cable, that actually connects to my headset, and speaker input to the same area. This allowed me to easily switch between devices quickly.
Getting a sound card will not work, I tried. This is due to the fact that MOST sound cards only support a single audio stream and can't handle two separate audio streams simultaneously.
Alternatively, you could get a USB to dual 3.5mm out. Then you could have both devices connected and use something like audio switcher to switch between you output devices with a keybind.
Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.ca/ENVEL-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493171344&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=audio%2Bjack%2Bsplitter%2B1%2Bfemale&amp;th=1
If you can't find the splitter you can buy one on Amazon for cheap.
Assuming you’re talking about the jacks on the top of your h500i. One is a mic input the other is the sound output. You’ll need something like this to make your headphone/mic work correctly.
Adapter for headset with mic to use separate input/output jacks, such as on a PC. https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C
You will need a splitter so that you can connect the headset to both the headphone and microphone sockets on the motherboard.
One like this
https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538704567&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=headset+splitter&psc=1
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Is it a single jack? or split for audio/mic? I'm unfamiliar with those headphones, but I use 3.5mm jacks for 1 of my headphones, it requires 2; one for audio, another for mic, you might need to buy a splitter.
That being said have they ever worked on the computer? Cause if they have without a splitter, you wouldnt need one.
As for testing without realtek software, headsets are literally plug and play. If it was the USB Atlas, the driver would be included (TBH, I probably should have asked the connection before I recommended removing realtek, but reinstalling drivers are always a good option).
edit: A more user friendly splitter
Something like this
It's using a 3 pin TRRS connector, when your computer wants a separate 2 pin TRS for each mic and headphones. You need to get an adapter like this
If your Xbox picks up both, buying a splitter should fix it. Here's an example : https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C
You can use any microphone, you just have to make sure it's plugged in right. I think the Xbox One controller uses a 3.5mm combo jack right? Not many PCs have that port.
You can pick up a breakout adapter such as this one to connect a headset that uses a combo jack to the more traditional 2-port setup PCs use.
You need a splitter to split the headphones into a seperate mic and headset. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C/
You need to get a splitter.
something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501633713&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=headphone+mic+splitter+pc
I just searched 'headphone mic splitter pc'
https://www.ikmultimedia.com/products/irigpre/ + https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C + https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Batteries-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B00HV4KFSA
The NTG3 drains out a 450mAH rechargeable 9V in about 5 hours. Read somewhere that the iRig can be damaged by high current batteries but this is yet to be confirmed. My iRig started to present some bad contact in the on/off switch after 2 years of some intense use (2 on/off cycles per working day) so I jump soldered the contacts and now it stays on as long as the battery is in it. I use it on a boom pole before a Sennheiser G3 plug-on TX. Works like a charm.
Better late than never, but it seems that when it runs the microphone digitally, it uses one of the noise cancelling channels and switches the signal to mono (with voice mixed in). This is a well-known limitation on bluetooth, where you can only run mono back while using a mic, though USB shouldn't have this limitation, but it lingers.
By using the included analog cable, it will output mic audio without actually running noise-cancellation on it, resulting in worse voice quality, but pristine audio. If your computer doesn't have a combined mic/headphone port, you can get a cheap adapter.
Yeah here it is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M8G1U0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The included Splitter does not work on pc, only on switch and phones. You need a pc splitter like the one below.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M8G1U0C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/A1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Silver/dp/B01CPUVPEM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481453749&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=fiio+e6
might do the trick
it's okay, I think we're talking about different things. I'm gonna get a dragonfly black with a usb c to usb 3 converter.
Thank you for being the only person to reply lol.
a gun stock for shooters protubevr, a VR hardset Stand or a hard case (won't fit the Samsung Odyssey tho).
I have this:
https://www.amazon.com/POWER-Storage-Case-PSVR-PlayStation-4/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479849682&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=psvr+storage
I'm pretty sure i can keep it in there long-term.
Something like this with a microphone...
https://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&amp;cp_id=10823&amp;cs_id=1082302&amp;p_id=8323&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2
With his adaptor, so the android mic work on computer?
https://www.amazon.ca/ENVEL-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C/ref=pd_sim_267_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01M8G1U0C&amp;pd_rd_r=166NH51ZDPFQBYTF1X2E&amp;pd_rd_w=xvPV2&amp;pd_rd_wg=MdIhH&amp;refRID=166NH51ZDPFQBYTF1X2E&amp;th=1
Amazon.ca for shipping:
https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-108323-Headphone-Gold-Plated-Accessories/dp/B007SP2CO2/ref=sr_1_5?m=A2LC44S2ULTA3L&amp;s=merchant-items&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493241998&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=headset+hi-fi
Now, all i need is a braided cable to work with... or a mutant cable + mic.
Something like this that cost less?
https://www.amazon.ca/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_11?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=9N4JK0345AH1QWAVBMSG
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Decker-5.0-cu-ft-Freezer-White/23117125?findingMethod=Recommendation:wm:RecentlyViewedItems
i use this with a Johnson A419 temp control unit
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=pd_sim_indust_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=155HQV9ZDQ3FSWNFBZSR
handles one 6g bucket/carboy. or could fit 2 corny kegs.
This might help
1
2
3
Here's three that are dedicated DACs and Amps. I own the e10 and it sounds great, and not just for its price.
Also, they didn't say that the dedicated amp would be able to drive high impedance headphones well. Keep in mind that they're targeting Beats headphones which have low impedance.
Use the link below to donate .5% of your purchase to charity.
Amazon Smile URL: https://smile.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A/ref=pd_cp_23_1
This bot is still in test phase. Please PM me for suggestions, complaints or questions.
If that headset only has one headphone jack thej u need to get an adapter that splits audio and mic like this https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=headphone+jack+splitter&amp;qid=1555527043&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4. Make sure you plug the audio into audio and mic into mic when you get the adapter. I had this same problem and this fixed it
I had the same problem with the wired earpods and bought a little rubber skin for them on Amazon. It made all the difference and now they're my favorite earbuds. 🙂
EarBuddyz Apple EarPod Cover and Hook Attachment for iPhone 7 / 6 / 6S / 6 Plus/ 5S/ 5C/ 5 Earphones Headphones Earbuds - Clear (2 Pairs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MEvwyb059KN86
If you are feeling experimental and want to keep using your existing buds (since you mentioned they sound better on your phone) you could try using a small amp. I use this sometimes for the boost and also to let me use a mic with my headphones:
Creative Sound Blaster E1 Portable Headphone Amplifier with Integrated Mic and Dual Headphone Jacks for PC and Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J2JATL0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_jUCcvb11MCK34
Probably the best in that price range.
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Stinger-Core-Playstation/dp/B07BB3PYD8/
You need a mic/headphone splitter for pc
https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C/
The link in this post helps reddit. Well, not really, but it's the same thing.
Get a DAC. Fiio is known for the best portable DAC's. I don't know your price range, so here are some right now.
Fiio E6, $27
Fiio E11, $65
Fiio E17, $140
Fiio E18, $160
Hope this helps. If you can upgrade a phone, iPhone and HTC One has good sound cards from my experience.
Thought this was a joke.
Not a joke.
https://www.amazon.com/Spigen-AirPods-PENDING-Connector-Airpods/dp/B01LVZ4SXN
WTF Apple???
EDIT (4:30pm EST): Yes, guys I understand that they are not made by Apple... No shit..
The WTF is because we even need to have an accessory like this..
Apple: "We have freed you from the tyranny of cords.... Oh.. BTW you might want to buy a cord so you don't lose those, which we don't make because that would be an admission that we solved a problem that really didn't exist and immediately created a more expensive problem."