Best heaters & heater accessories according to redditors
We found 330 Reddit comments discussing the best heaters & heater accessories. We ranked the 111 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 330 Reddit comments discussing the best heaters & heater accessories. We ranked the 111 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
It's an induction heater. Everything is available on Amazon. It's very easy.
(For anyone else interested) Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ
Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/
Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB
Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE
Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.
First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.
Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).
Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).
Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!
Mr. Heater F232017 MH9BXRV Buddy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DD6C4MY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Just ran a test on this: one standard propane bottle ran full heat around 4 hours & could easily keep a large tent warm. Listed as safe for indoors & I didn’t catch any gas smell. Unit is pretty well built & costs around $75.
I also got an adapter to run full sized BBQ propane tanks. Seems a decent “worse case” supplemental heater, but would cut thru your propane supply pretty quick.
Good morning, frients!!! I just completed my IH build based on A LOT of research/lurking around these parts. Here are a few more pictures of the setup/internals:
​
https://i.imgur.com/pEex7Xh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ntdy5qi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HoTzHAi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JDlo2FV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Hiz0sea.jpg
​
**Update/Parts List**
Box/Enclosure
Induction heater board w/coil
Glass tube
(I shoved a cork in there from an old craft beer bottle. I just shaved it down with an x-acto knife until I was happy with the fit/spacing)
Mosfet
Power supply
Red toggle switch
Momentary switch
DC panel-mount jack
Insulated crimp connectors
I used 16-gauge red/black wiring and insulated crimp connectors I had left over from previous projects.
​
Here's the bubbler I was using with the optional glass mouthpiece.
​
Total: ~$65 USD
​
TL;DR This thing is badass and easy to put together. Do it!!!
A lot of people including me use lanterns or propane heaters. There's usually enough airflow not to harm you. In my older shanty I even used to have a wood burning stove in it. It was a little dude for a wood burner but it kicked ass.
This is the heater I use most:
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232017-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B01DD6C4MY
If your place is reltively small, those oil-filled portable radiant heaters are wonderful.
http://www.amazon.com/DeLonghi-TRD0715T-Safeheat-Portable-Oil-Filled/dp/B000A33B1C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410279004&sr=8-2&keywords=oil+filled+radiant+heater
Or get one for the bedroom and the living room - wherever you spend the most time.
I used to have a couple when I lived in apartments. I found that they pay for themselves quickly. They use very little electricity (compared to electric heat anyway) and keep the place nice and cozy.
You can buy them most anywhere for $50-$100 or so depending on what you get.
My wife and I bought a farm now. We've lived here for almost 6 years. We have a 1,000 propane tank that runs out heat. I got really tired of buying 800 gallons of propane at $3 a gallon, so then we bought a Franklin stove insert for our existing fireplace.
It was a bit pricey up front ($4,500) but in the two years we've had it, it's just about already paid for itself in propane that we don't use. Plus, when you heat your home with wood, it smells awesome and it's just cozier.
Sometimes being frugal is about being frugal in the long run.
Many vandwellers use the Portable Mr. Buddy heater:
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU
(Also available at Walmart stores and Cabela's)
It's a good idea to have a carbon monoxide (don't confuse this with dioxide) detector in your van and to leave your windows open a bit when the heater is being used.
https://i.imgur.com/fs09cfI.jpg
I carry this in my Fiat 500e in winter. A Mr. Heater Buddy (sold at most hardware stores and Amazon) to make sure I never end up with no heat even if I have no power. This little heater puts out up to 9000 btu's so it'll roast you right out of the car if you put it on high, but even with just the pilot light running it'll keep you from freezing to death and the low setting is good right down to -20c.
And now to answer all the Negative Nellies who jumped all over this last time I posted:
a) No you will NOT die - it has a CO sensor and will automatically shut itself off if the oxygen level in your car gets low. Ive slept with it on in my car. It works just fine. Just crack a window open and quite hyperventilating, ya nancy.
b) Yes it has an auto shutoff if it tips over.
c) No, its not illegal to carry propane in your car - you can legally carry gas in a gas can and that's WAY more dangerous than a propane bottle.
d) No, a propane tank won't explode if you're in an accident. Please watch the Mythbusters episode where they TRY to blow up a propane tank with a high powered bullet - it doesnt work.
e) No, it won't void your insurance if you're carrying propane anymore than carrying cigarette lighters, a butane camp stove, fireworks or charging your cellphone or computer (which sometimes catch on fire). Quit making shit up - y'all need to let go of your momma's hands and try taking a couple of steps outside the basement all by yourself. You'd be surprised how freeing it is LOL
If you sleep in your car with the windows rolled up, it will suck. You will feel clammy from the humidity and will definitely have frozen windows on the inside when you wake up.
If I were you, I would keep the windows slightly cracked and use a small propane heater in the vehicle. This sounds crazy but Mr. Heater makes some propane heater models that are indoor safe. These units auto shut off if they are tipped over or if the room oxygen level becomes too low. As long as you keep fabric away from the heat output, you should be fine.
Also, you might consider getting some plastic window deflectors for your car windows so that snow doesn't blow into the vehicle when the window is cracked.
Sleep with pajamas, socks, and a beanie on and bring a thermos filled with hot tea. You'll appreciate it as you're laying down for bed. :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CFRF7I
http://www.weathertech.com/side-window-deflectors/
Mr Heater Little Buddy!
It's designed pretty much exactly for this it has built in oxygen detectors and will auto shut off before it gets dangerous.
However if you decide to NOT use a heater you end up in a -20 sleeping bag shivering yourself to sleep while cuddling a friend for warmth, which is far less safe because you might get tauntauned for warmth.
Also if your a mom, you might not want to ask too many questions, especially things like, "where are your eyebrows" or "why do you have duct tape wrapped around your arm?"
You want a Mr Heater Buddy, man. Easy to use, safe, cheap to run, and it will keep you warm in a space much bigger than a van. Highly recommended.
EDIT: for safety, make sure you install a carbon monoxide detector.
I would recommend saving up $50, and buying a
Portable Buddy heater when it goes on sale. They are made for indoor use, and have safety shutoffs for low volume or getting knocked over. For another $10, you can buy an adapter hose that lets it use the 20lb "grill" propane tanks.
The 1lb "camping" bottles will last 3-5 hours, and the 20lb tanks will last several days straight (or a week, if you only use the heat a few hours per day).
Relocating the filter should be part of the job but also cleaning your coils should partially help fix the issue.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/
Buy enough cans to get free shipping (if you don't have prime)
Get a dish brush spread evenly without bending the fins and then try removing the clumps before they clog your drain
I totally get how dangerous it is. My position is that, living in a big city, we sometimes forget that this is Canada: no heat means death. We had no heat one year during a three or four day power outage; most of our neighbours had to go to a community center. I don't like to rely on others when there are cheap, reliable alternatives. It's not nice, but it is possible to heat a room with beeswax candles and a home built clay pot heater, or alcohol gel.
Here's an example of one of the smallest catalytic heaters i've seen:
http://www.amazon.ca/Heater-F215100-3800-BTU-Indoor-Safe-Propane/dp/B001CFRF7I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425433438&sr=8-2&keywords=coleman+heater
I've used a coleman black cat I found for under $100 (there was one listed on amazon for $500 which is stupid)
If it's -25 out, you'll still need a sleeping bag or a sweater or a jacket but it will heat a room enough to keep you from freezing.
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1411528054&sr=1-1&keywords=heater+portable+propane+indoor
/u/SpartanUp247 , I'm breaking this up so it's not a mega post.
Insofar as other as other supplies go... well, I could write on that for way longer than I'm going to tonight. I'll try to give a short essential list though.
--------------------------------
Bug out bags are cool and a good idea/place to get started, but realistically if you are forced to sincerely grab that bag and run out of the door with nothing else because things are just that screwed, you are likely pretty hosed. Chances are you'll have time to pack the car in most situations, so the best way to go is to plan on bugging in first and foremost. No point in turning yourself into a refugee if you don't need to. If you're still wanting to start with a bugout bag... see the next post for my recommendation for a cheap startup kit.
Several solutions that I know off:
If I were prepping for cold, I would look into a indoor-rated propane heater.
RV floors are uninsulated. That's one of the reasons why they get so cold.
Anyway, how's the electrical system in the RV? An electric blanket draws a lot of power. If the electrical system isn't in good shape, and he doesn't drive the RV around much to charge the batteries, then the electric blanket would be much less useful.
How big is the RV? Because there are some indoor-safe propane heaters that would work better, such as this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU
LED lightbulbs, Home Depot has some that are 2 for $5 that are plenty bright and dimmable.
Get some lamps too, put LED bulbs in em. All you really need most of the time is 1-2 lamps providing light instead of the overhead lights.
While it was an absolute nessesity for my apartment since it has a tiny water heater, a low flow shower head like this (and I actually had that one, i loved it but i got a room mate and they didn't) or at least a valve to kill the water when you're soaping up like this one. Saves hot water when others need to shower, as well as saving water in general.
A window shrink-wrap kit like this one can keep the cool air in in the summer and out in the winter.
While heading on the extreme side, if your door seals as crappily as mine does Magnetic weatherstripping will keep a nice seal around your door keeping the conditioned air inside and bugs outside.
Making sure to clean the lint trap after every use is important. If you own the drier, you could also remove the back panel (unplug it first!) and clean the whole duct.
putting some outlet insulation under your outside-facing wall plate-covers will help.
If you have central air, ask your landlord if the filter is your responsibility. If it is, make sure to replace it every 30-60 days. I would recommend a Filtrete filter, since I like being able to breathe when I wake up on a high-pollen day. If you have a terminal A/C unit make sure that you clean the filter well, using a little OxyClean to get it fully clean is a good idea. Some evaporator cleaner may be needed if the metal intake fins behind the filter are dirty.
If you do have a terminal system, it may also be worth it to use safer styles of space heater instead of the terminal's heat pump. The heat pump on mine is crap.
Asking your landlord to clean your drier's wet air outlet will prevent fires, decrease drying time, and save money.
That's all I can think of.
Not legal advice but a practical suggestion. I have friends who live in NYC and travel a lot for work. They are always worried about bedbugs. They all use a portable "bedbug oven." You can set it up and pop your clothes etc in it for a period of time and let them basically cook. Not necessarily the most cost effective thing to do (electricity and cost of unit), but maybe since you said you're feeling really freaked out this could mitigate some of those fears? Honestly knowing people who've dealt with bedbugs before, if I felt at risk I'd jump on this rather than deal with the hell that comes with those critters. Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F6EV306/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493676618&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ZappBug&dpPl=1&dpID=31cK2Rwj2HL&ref=plSrch
That is the best advice. There are also products for frequent travelers like this. You keep it at home in your garage or whatnot. Drop your suitcase into it as soon as get home, zip it up, turn it on, come back a few hours later and any tiny hitchhikers have been cooked to death.
You really wouldn't want something like a smart switch due to the power draw when you initially turn on the air conditioner AND you wouldn't really be able to control it. You'd want something that can shoot commands to the AC (assuming it comes with a remote that's IR).
The following products all fulfill that niche!
>What's the climate like at the college you have planned?
UW Madison, so hella cold. I'm going to get a cargo van (no windows in the rear to let out heat) and insulate the tar out of it with rockwool. I'll also have a [indoors-safe propane heater] (http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422033045&sr=8-1&keywords=buddy+heater) as well as a low power electric heater that will be powered by a battery banked charged by my alternator.
>You might want to consider a community college or somewhere where your living arrangements won't be under scrutiny.
I plan on getting a degree in biology and then go on to vet school, so I'm pretty set with going to Madison.
>some colleges don't 'allow' you to live anywhere but the dorms..... Or a C class RV.
That's why I plan on getting a small cargo van (an AWD Astro to be specific). I can rig it up to be comfy and warm with almost no sign of me being in it. Ill have a metal bulkhead that blocks the front seats from the back, which doesnt look out of place in a cargo van, and the only exterior mod I'd make is a sunroof, which most people couldn't see anyways since the van is over 6ft tall (I'd do this for ventilation and light).
>You'll probably only be there to sleep and relax
Thats the plan, I hope to be either at libraries or at the gym for a good chunk of the day.
I took my youngest at 6mos and it was no trouble at all. Though at that age, we did bring a packnplay, and you'll want to make sure you're warm enough at night. She had the full puffy pjs and was in the double sleeping bag with my wife and I. If it's going to be really cold, you could get one of these heaters.
If anything, the biggest challenge camping with kids is naps, because it can be tough to get it dark enough unless you have an RV. Generally it seems like they got no nap on the arrival day, then they play really hard the next day and either crash around nap time, or typically a bit before their regular bed time. After that, it's pretty up in the air, but I find it all works out.
Our most recent camping trip had like 9 kids, half of which were under 1. It was so great seeing the 3-4 year olds running around and getting dirty. They loved it.
Where in MA?
If you have 240v available, you want something like this. You can't install a wood burning stove in your garage in our wonderful state.
Also buy a real dust collector. Even a small, cheap, portable one will be much more effective than the best shop vac you can possibly buy.
Hey man, don't rag on him. He's rocking that Patton Workman space heater.
These have a lot more wattage than that other unit and are similarly silent and have no exposed heating element. You can also stash them in a closet or the attic when not in use.
The smallest little buddy heater would probably be sufficient:
little buddy
You are better off focusing on bundling up and getting a nice sleeping bag.
You can go with a Mr Heater Little Buddy, but you have to accept the risk of possibly dying. The propane heaters also give off a ton of moisture so you're going to wake up to a rain forest in your car.
If you want to go upscale you can get a Webasto parking heater. Popular in places where you want to pre-heat your car before you get in. Expensive.
I got a register fan booster. It replaces the existing outlet cover, detects when air is moving through, and automatically turns on. It's not fantastic, but does help and is a decent solution until you can do a full redo.
One of these http://www.amazon.com/Suncourt-HC500-W-Flush-Fit-Booster/dp/B001WT6S5Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1374099842&sr=1-1&keywords=flush+fit+booster
Good point, I misread your post. However, you can build a wood stove very inexpensively using a 55 gallon drum (strip the paint and use BBQ paint on it) and one of these kits
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IO6RAA/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I also recommend doing some research on how these stoves work. A stove like this isn't technically meant for residential use, but if it's for emergencies you can make it work.
Just don't keep it inside normally because if you do have a house fire, your insurance will try to blame it on the stove even if you didn't use it.
A more expensive option is something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mr+buddy&qid=1566929981&s=gateway&sr=8-1
You'd have to stockpile propane throughout the year
Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nvL-zbF85BZ12
For when/ if electricity fails you. Whether it's a problem with your internal wiring, or an external lack of power. I keep this inside my rig all winter incase of emergency. One of those green propane bottles last 4-5 hours, so keep a couple bottles inside. It's safe to run in the trailer.
I bought my rig last November and went straight to Denver for all of December and January. I stayed totally dry for most of that until I got a heated hose and figured out a couple more tricks.
Keep a clean 5 gallon bucket inside, sometimes motivation or the time isn't there to make it to the gym for a shower. You can boil a kettle of water and use it to wash up.
You can also buy a hand pump for those primo water jugs which are quick, easy, and cheap to fill. Those make it easy to keep water in the place.
You can either wash dishes in a bucket and dump it outside, or you'll need to figure out grey water from the sink. It shouldn't be a problem to run a line out and dump it on the ground, you'd just want to watch the line to make sure you don't get an ice block in there.
If the outhouse gets old, you can look into a composting toilet if you have somewhere to keep it. Or a toilet with a "cassette" which you can dump in the outhouse when it's not -10 out.
Sometimes it's nice to have an option for anything you might need inside the trailer to get though cold days and nights.
fix the transmission.
also i go for higher mpg minivans with all/most of the back seats removed. and ultra-tinting windows exactly up to the legal limit.
but... well any kind of freezing temperature is nuts. And michigan gets really really really cold.
I saw video of a guy doing it with like 6 layers of thermal underwear all sewn together at the ends.
Maybe insulate the walls of whatever you're gonna live in? depends on funds. You could staple-gun some insulation or even cardboard and thermal blanket layers to the wall of the truck.
I used to winter camp (in michigan) and we'd use a catalytic propane heater (similar to this) and insulate the tent with a bunch of moving blankets and emergency blankets layers up.
depends on the model, but the 'cozy cabin' heater by dickinson marine uses a small pilot light that has trouble staying lit at altitude. others have a low-oxygen shut-off feature that can be tripped by thinner air. the mr. buddy heater in particular only works up to about 7,000 ft
I mention the cozy cabin because I spoke with dickinson about that model specifically in the past, I assume (but don't know) that their other heaters operate similarly.
their response to whether it works at altitude is:
"Unfortunately the cozy cabin will not perform well at altitude. It has a small orifice in the pilot light assembly that can not be altered and the unit rely's on the pilot light to keep the thermocouple active so when you try and use it at altitudes the pilot light become erratic and will not keep the thermocouple engaged and the heater will not stay lit."
they never gave a specific maximum altitude, but my original question to them asked about 10,000ft or more.
my suggestion is to first, get a natural gas detector if you don't already have one in the van. second, test it out at incrementally higher altitudes, only while you are awake. after a couple nights of no issues then if you feel safe use it while you sleep.
Mr Heater is what I use and I live in Ohio smoke outside with this on.
https://smile.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1542769245&sr=8-10&keywords=buddy+heater
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CFWF5U
Or head to the pub that has power.
/r/vandwellers love mr buddy propane heaters
I can't imagine an oil lamp being safer than propane, not to mention the minimal heat. Oh yeah, and they don't burn as well, so you'll be breathing in a lot nastier air.
Honestly your best solution is a Mr. Heater. It's what I use in my van. It's super efficient, and super warm. No power necessary, just propane. You can use those little green 1 pound propane tanks, or hook it up to a 20 pound tank (that's what I do).
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU
Mr heater buddy propane heater, crack an exterior window, buy a co detector.
I've got one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002G51BZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421301484&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
2 one pound propane canisters from Walmart (USD 5.77) lasts me 11 hours on low, which is more than enough to keep the van toasty as low as 15 degrees so far.
I use this in my garage wood shop heats up real nice
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q4EYEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_y3BAybGZPHP65
Liquid propane forced air heaters should work in this application. Check to see if they're rated for indoor use (some are, some aren't).
There is a specific product that you should use to avoid causing oxidation on the aluminum and copper.
Nu-Calgon 4171-75 Evap Foam No Rinse Evaporator Coil Cleaner, 18 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cLqlDbSPDS9KR
Actually, check the fins on the evaporator coil behind the filter once it thaws. If a lot of them aren't straight, or if they're dirty, that would do it. Even if they don't look dirty, they still could be. It wouldn't hurt to clean them either way. I like this one fit small units like that https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Calgon-417175-Nu-Calgon-Evap/dp/B00DM8KQ3I
I do not have experience with carpet beetles, but [this thing(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6EV306/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_g60_i2_sh) works really well with bedbugs, and if they have similar temperature limits, it should work for carpet beetles too. I know this thing is a little expensive, but it might be worth a try?
The only place I can put my wineador is in the basement. I'm down to 63 deg which has me concerned. Anyone think about putting hand warmers in the fridge to keep temp up? Maybe that's not a good idea? Would a small personal heater work better? I'm putting way too much money into this hobby...
http://www.amazon.com/Cozy-Products-FW-Warmer-Heated/dp/B000079896
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000079896/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Q-oJwb47E0V1J
There's some fabric ones but I would assume they would get dirty.
It's a foot warmer, I have some weird health issues and my feet are always super cold. The pad gets hotter than you'd ever need, and I'd recommend it if you too suffer from cold feet.
Footwarmer / Dimmer
I actually like it, but this one prompted me to do something like this foot warming pad.
Already rocking one of these. :)
https://www.amazon.ca/Fahrenheat-FUH54-240-Volt-Garage-5000-Watt/dp/B0000AXEZV/ref=pd_sbs_60_t_2/140-4560975-3835063?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0000AXEZV&pd_rd_r=a260f01a-f48d-4802-8e89-d3093ff27585&pd_rd_w=VBdf1&pd_rd_wg=IqCOg&pf_rd_p=9926bb69-42b9-46e4-b788-f665992e326d&pf_rd_r=W6MXX4XPFFBN2AH2T43A&psc=1&refRID=W6MXX4XPFFBN2AH2T43A
well... if its getting cold in the porch it will get cold in there. that cover doesn't really insulate.
you should probably just get a small heater and heat the porch?
Electric space heaters (the kind that glow) are terrible for heating rooms - especially if you are in a drafty room.
First, seal your house. Low-E films are a good start.
Then, get a oil filled heater like this one. I have a couple of these and they provide dense, warm heat to any room.
Most also have timers on them so that you can set them up to turn on and off automatically.
Gaffers tape is also really great. It's very expensive though.
And also! For anyone that is having issues with a drafty window or cold room. I bought one of these (link below) and put it right under my window. It keeps the room toasty and is very energy efficient. I haven't even put plastic over my window yet and it really helps.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A33B1C/ref=mlt_base_B000A33B1C
This little heater would work just as good for the bedrooms. It's -15 here right now due to wind chills and this is the only heat for our bedroom. It works great and we have 10 foot ceilings! You could get one for each bedroom for the price of the original one on your list :)
Thanks for the info. Heater fan like this?
I use [this space heater](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BEUZS2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ouBevb02WMGB9
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BEUZS2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ouBevb02WMGB9).
Sorry if it's on mobile. Not at my computer
Edit: I also don't use it at the highest setting. It has variable heat settings along with a high and low heat setting. I usually have it on the max level of the low heat. It's usually not on very long, only when I'm at the computer and my feet get cold
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BEUZS2/ref=s9_cdeal_hd_bw_i1/189-8709928-4363057?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=0GVXMYM3K7GJXFWPYR80&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=ccca20d1-8e39-4a6d-a0ef-eb728eb67b92&pf_rd_i=510182
Aha! I found the source of global warming!
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F215100-3800-BTU-Propane/dp/B001CFRF7I/ref=br_lf_m_8pouqr5ksg8u7ry_img?_encoding=UTF8&s=home-garden
Right? It sounds like a really bad idea to have a propane heater in a tent but you’d be surprised how many websites recommend it. This amazon one has a lot of recommendations but I’d be way too scared to try that.
Buy a DC powered mini fridge. Running an AC mini fridge takes more power and there is power loss by going through the inverter. A DC powered fridge can run as low as 30-40W. One like this.
If you drive enough (every day, an hour plus) an isolator to charge your battery will most likely be enough.
Since you are only planning on doing this for a short while, you don't need the nicest batteries. Costco has 160Ah deep-cycle lead acid batteries for less than $100. I'd reccomend one of those, maybe two. Remember, you can only discharge your batteries about 50%, so a 160Ah battery actually only gives you 80Ah of capacity. Also, the battery takes longer to charge the more charge it currently has, so the last 5-10% to top it off takes longer than the previous 5-10% etc.
I wouldn't use an electric heater, they are very inefficient. Without a more robust power/battery/charging solution you won't get much use out of it. Consider a propane heater and adequete ventilation. Something like this will provide more than enough heat for a space as small as an F150 bed.
For charging your laptop/phone/devices, you'll only need a small inverter. Remember that with a DC fridge you won't be running it off the inverter. I reccomend getting one 400W or smaller. The higher the Wattage on your inverter, the more power it wastes just by being on, so you want the smallest possible inverter for your needs.
F150's have pretty large engine bays. You may even be able to get away with putting your deep-cycle storage battery under the hood instead of using up space in your bed/living area for it.
I'd highly reccomend getting a small power bank to charge your phone and other small devices. You can plug the power bank into any wall outlet to charge it while you're at work, at a coffee shop, whatever. I have one that is 22,000mAh and I charge it while at work. With a full charge it will re-charge my phone enough times for me to use the phone 2-3 days without worry. With a 5 hour charge (a shift at work) it will charge my phone 1.5-2ish times. This reduces your reliance on your onboard electrical system in your truck, leaving more battery capacity reserved for running your fridge.
Also get LED some lights that run off DC power. It's a waste of energy to run lights off AC through your inverter.
Lastly, do a little math. Let's say you end up with a fridge that runs at 40W. 40W % 12V = 3.33A x 24hrs = 80Ah. Assuming you're running the fridge 24 hours a day you'd be using the full discharge capacity of your 160Ah battery every day, and that's without taking loss into account. I'm pretty sure those fridges will cycle on/off so it doesn't actually draw a full 40W at all times, but keep these things in mind. Make a plan based on how often you will drive, how fast your alternator charges your battery, and how often you plan on keeping the fridge on. I think you'd be crazy to use a standard mini fridge that draws 156W and runs of AC power.
Good luck have fun!
Maybe a Mr. Heater Little Buddy. They run off those small propane tanks.
We haven't experienced "storm" wind with it, but that Utah trip was kinda windy at night one of the nights, so we strung up the guy lines and that kept it very sturdy. I will also note that the "front porch" windows of the tent don't "zipper-seal" along the top. Those windows zip-up on the sides, then have a little fastener to keep the flap closed at the top (maybe you can see this in my pic above, of the inside of the tent.) This tent is far from air-tight, but it's not a bad thing since we use one of these occasionally.
I personally thought this one linked was overkill. I purchased the mr buddy mini, had a 100 sq ft coverage area.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CFRF7I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And the reviews say they are very tip-able, but I thought that was way off base. I think they are pretty sturdy.
I have used the kerosene heater. They put out quite a bit of heat. Another option is the Mr. Heater propane powered version, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=pd_lpo_201_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7BW0P4QYEMBXB8MS7WVD
Safety around kids is another matter all together. Even wood stoves, space heaters, and radiators aren't safe around them due to the burn hazard. All I can say is that most kerosene heaters and Mr. Heater propane heaters have tip sensors that will shut them off if knocked over. The burn hazard will exist for almost any heat source.
Regarding garage heating, I use this indoor propane heater in conjunction with this 240 V heater.
I run them both when it's really cold (0 deg F), or when I first get out in the garage. If it's warmer outside (down to ~30 deg F) or the garage is up to temp, I just run the electric one to avoid the hassle of having to get tank refills. The total cost is less than $300, including a new propane tank and wiring in the 240 V outlet, and works well for me.
I have something like this heater for camping when it gets cold. Also got an adapter to refill the little tanks from a big one. Seems to work well and fairly cost efficient.
The dorm should have plenty of backup power solutions to provide power during an outage right? If you insist though this is what I would buy: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478532852&sr=8-1&keywords=buddy+heater
I have been batting around the idea of building an EV myself for a long time. I have a DIY electric motorcycle which is a fun project and gets commuting use occasionally but is mostly for fun. The way things are now, though, I really doubt I would build my own EV for any reason other than fun. There are so many cheap, cheap used EVs on that market that just work without all the headaches of a DIY project (believe me- they will ALWAYS have headaches- you will never, ever have 100% reliability with a DIY EV). Used, degraded-battery Leaves or i-MIEVs would meet your needs and are available for less than $8000 in many places. There would be no AWD/4x4, but I suspect that either of those cars with good snow tires would perform well in the snow if the roads aren't covered with all 18 inches.
Would modifying an EV scratch your DIY itch? Perhaps adding some heating capacity to a Leaf or i-MIEV. I have thought it'd be a good project to add a propane heater to an EV, like this one, which I own. It provides instant heat, does not produce carbon monoxide, and is safe to use indoors. The tip sensor would be the one tricky bit- it shuts off if tipped even slightly and going around a corner or accelerating/decelerating could do it. I wouldn't prefer a diesel heater because of the smell and fumes, personally, whereas the propane one is odorless. I have the hose to hook mine up to a 20lb barbecue tank for use in the house during power outages. The other problem would be moisture buildup- the propane gets turned into CO2 and water- and that water will want to turn into condensation in your windows. Still worth trying, I think. Maybe I'll try it in my Prius sometime.
If you REALLY want to build your own snow-monster EV, I would start with whatever gas vehicle would be your choice for the conditions. Since your range requirements are so low, choosing a light, aerodynamic vehicle isn't as important. Don't go for a land-barge though- maybe an older Jeep Cherokee (XJ) in good condition, or a compact truck with 4x4. Compact pickups have been popular for EV conversions because of the easy mounting for the batteries. I'd be partial to an older vehicle with fewer computers, and probably 4x4 with a manual transfer case rather than anything AWD since I suspect that'd be more complicated. Again, I would caution you that unless you are extremely technically savvy, building your own EV is going to be a challenge of finding and fixing all the little problems that will, in all likelihood, take years to sort out and be a constant time-drain. I won't say it's impossible, but do want to advise you about the kind of commitment you'd be making for building and debugging.
Edit: Which Jeep
I have a Mr. Heater Buddy heater. I use it in my tiny camper and it heats the place up in 10 - 15 minutes. I have to turn it on and off again to keep from turning my place into a sauna. Typically, I'll run it for 10 minutes and off for 20. So I run it three or four times before I go to bed and then turn it on when I get up in the morning to take the chill off. Now that it's winter, I go through a bottle of propane about once a week.
I also have a carbon monoxide detector in my camper. In all the time I've used the heater, the only time it registered on my detector, was at the end of a bottle when it was not burning completely for a few minutes. My CM detector registered 31 but never went off. I opened the top vent and it went back to 0 in two or three minutes. The heater is frikin' fantastic. I consider it very safe and am not worried at all about oxygen depletion.
https://smile.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482855391&sr=8-1&keywords=mr+heater+buddy
I have that one, rarely used but it's rated as indoor safe. YMMV, I expect a comment shortly stating I'm on borrowed time. If you have an electrical hookup just get a ceramic heater.
Why not just get one of those little Mr. Heaters? It'd be a hell of allot cheaper than 2 marine batteries and wouldn't require all the backend stuff to make it work.
These work well especially when boondocking (and a great backup when no 120v is available)
Air out as normal and run the heater for a minute?
I used a space heater from Menards when I lived at Lexington Ridge, heated up whichever room I was in fine without destroying the electric bill. Don't forget to put plastic over your windows and all that jazz.
http://www.amazon.com/Lasko-5624-Profile-Heater-Black/dp/B002Q4EYEQ/ref=lp_510182_1_23?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1420556101&sr=1-23
That one. Kinda pricey but lasted me three years no problem. And the digital thermostat was cool.
If you are looking for product advice, I use this space heater, which is completely silent, can run self-regulated or continuously, and emits a substantial amount of heat.
Dr. Infrared Heater DR-988 Garage Shop 208/240V, 4800/5600W Heater with 6-30R Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XOZN7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_cGKpyb88JP7G9
These work pretty good if you have 220.
Or like this
Mine is simply a flat panel that mounts to the wall, circulates heat via convection.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=psdc_510182_t2_B00FRFFC4W
Out of the way (an inch from the wall), while it gets hot to the touch it's not going to burn you if you rest against it, much less catch anything on fire (though, d'uh, don't hang towels/fabric on the damn thing).
Best investment I've made for a bathroom after a high quality toilet. I even have mine on a programmable t-stat so it's warm first thing in the morning for my wife as she's getting ready for work at 6am.
Look for a wall-mount heater (http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1415815787&sr=1-1&keywords=wall+heater)
$.03/hr to run them and keeps my apt nice and warm.
There are radiant wall panels you might consider. I don't have personal experience with them. Apparently in-wall or in-ceiling radiant heat is a thing, too.
So the Ecobee most likely runs off of DC power. This will be supplied by a rectifier and a voltage regulator from the R terminal (24v AC from your HVAC equipment). 24v AC rectifies to about 35v DC. The ecobee will step this down to maybe 12 or 5v DC for use internally. So putting 24v DC on the R terminal should still work as expected, however it's not recommended as it's not a supported configuration. However, it shouldn't cause damage.
To answer your questions, get a 24v AC transformer and relay that accepts a 24v AC signal and capable of switching 1v DC. Your circuit diagram looks correct.
Looks like digikey does not have a wall transformer in stock. In short: the Ecobee needs ~4VA to run. Look for a transformer that can deliver at least 10va (or 10 watts) LockState Connect LS-24VAC 24 Vac Adaptor for LS-90i
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071IWJ7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hzAtybVP4AJ5X
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/phoenix-contact/2903337/277-10089-ND/4755341
Double check me that these meet requirements.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071IWJ7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have the same set up as you. I bought this above and I just got mine running today! I had already installed 18/5, so I just spliced the wires from the adapter and used the reviews on Amazon with the wire configuration.
Mini-Ductor II
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uimEZKrVNO0
https://www.amazon.com/Induction-Innovations-MD-700-Mini-Ductor-Magnetic/dp/B008XN9HO6
Depends on your confidence level. Cleaning the furnace and reachable ductwork with a shop vac will save you money and is not very difficult.
Also, if your comfortable and careful, you can try getting some of this, Nu-Calgon Foam cleaner, follow the instructions, and carefully apply, while being very very carefull to not bend any of the fins.
But number one priority for you should be to measure your filter rack with a tape measure, and buy proper fitting filters. All of this can be avoided with just a little bit of routine maintenance.
There are much better options than black bags. These will actual get your luggage up to sustained temperatures to kill the bugs and the eggs.
Source - frequent traveller that bought this overnight on my way back home from a bug infested hotel.
There are smart controls for window A/C units with IR remote control
MOES WiFi Smart IR Remote Controller Smart Home Infrared Universal Remote Blaster,One for All Control AC TV DVD CD AUD SAT etc,Compatible with Alexa and Google Home,No Hub Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QH1X7PX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SV2pDbJY76JJR
atomi Smart Air Conditioner Adaptor, WiFi Thermometer Monitoring, Provides Smart AC Control, Compatible with Amazon Alexa, Google Home, iOS and Android, Control temperature from anywhere https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZ6BHMZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MX2pDbG6043GY
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010ACFKNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6S2pDbBSTBKR9
Sensibo Sky (International) - Air Conditioner Controller, Wi-Fi, Compatible with iOS and Android, Compatible with Alexa & Google Home https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU2YSR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gV2pDb1JNWVF2
Ambi Climate 2 Smart Air Conditioner Controller - AI Powered, WiFi Enabled | Works with Alexa, Siri, Google Home, IFTTT, iOS, Android | Auto Temp Control for Window Units, Mini Split & Portable Units https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BCPJP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hX2pDbWDXSG28
But using the nest sensor to control it, that's not possible. You could use another nest in the room and have it actuate a relay that tells a arduino or raspberry pi to send an IR signal to the A/C.....you can do all kind if things
Module and Coil
ZVS Driver Module,5V-12V ZVS Low... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNM24YM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
12V 20A LED switch with cover
AutoEC New 12V/20A Red LED Illuminated On/off SPST Car Automotive Toggle Switch Button https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012IHZW4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YIOWCbX59GG36
18 gauge wire
BNTECHGO 18 Gauge Silicone Wire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AQOI36M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
12v 6a power supply
AspenTek Us Plug Dc 12v Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GU63ICU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Then I used three spade connectors to attach the wires to the switch, which you can get from walmart
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/
Yeah I want to get one for home emergencies or camping.
Saw one on the amazon deals of the day: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232017-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B01DD6C4MY/ref=gbps_img_s-3_bb19_2e2a1c6b?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=41fd713f-6bfe-4299-a021-d2b94872bb19&pf_rd_s=slot-3&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_i=gb_main&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=A60EGY5J6CZ4MMTV2Z97
I did some research recently and it seems like my best bet will be going with a propane heater.
Mr. Heater F274830 MH18BRV Big Buddy Grey Indoor-Safe Portable RV Propane Heater (4,000 , 9,000 and 18,000 BTU) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DD6C4TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2476BbPAWH3VT
I’m going to try this out this winter
Ah, we were using this model which is I think the biggest Mr. Buddy...
It's this guy. Markets itself as indoor safe.
Mr. Heater F274830 MH18BRV Big Buddy Grey Indoor-Safe Portable RV Propane Heater (4,000 , 9,000 and 18,000 BTU) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DD6C4TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8wWSDbJWFDJ17
Check out a foot heating pad intended for use on the floor and with shoes. Similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000079896/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LVuPBbBKBJ0M7
My husband got me one a couple years back and it’s life changing.
Definitely a lot less dangerous than a space heater.
Nowadays at work I have a heating pad with an auto shutoff timer (2hrs). But my cube is way more hospitable in the winter :)
It would be more effective on your toes at this point.
Well anyway, I do vape, and part of the shop has a concrete floor, so I had the same issue.
I got one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Tiny-Tanker-Foot-Warmer/dp/B000079896/
It helps.
This is very similar to what we have in our garage. You'll need to find one that matches your space requirements though.
http://www.amazon.com/Fahrenheat-Ceiling-Mount-Electric-Heater-FUH5-4/dp/B0000AXEZV
Electric heat is an awful use of the suns rays. Let's say you get 3kw of solar panels on your roof. Congratulations, you can run 2 of these for about 6 hours https://www.amazon.com/Patton-PUH680-N-U-Milk-House-Utility-Heater/dp/B0000BYC61/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492583724&sr=8-2&keywords=1500+watt+heater
That used all the power you made all day.
Hi, I have a small work shop in a shipping container but it's off the grid. I'd like to wire it for basic light/electric heat just at the work bench so I can keep working during the winter. My only power option is a Honda eu2000i generator. This is for work, but I'm a biologist with this task assigned to me and don't know my arse from a hole in the ground when it comes to electrical. Google has turned up a lot of options to run a shop off a backup generator but I don't understand all the switches/whatnot. I just need a lightbulb and a heater setup for under 2000 watts. I'd appreciate any help!
Edit: Thanks. I'm going with these 2 items and a beefy extension cord.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UTX4HJS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=BD0V6SS37HM5&coliid=IOED04S3HI5SX
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYC61/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=BD0V6SS37HM5&coliid=I1ETHVK3U9QGC5&psc=1
They appear to have good reviews.
I have two DeLonghi oil filled that have timers on them. The good is no exposed heating elements and the oil stays hot for a while after they turn off. The bad is no fan.
If I get to the point where I get cold under my quilt I'm gonna get one of these.
pop up ice fishing shanty:
http://www.amazon.com/CBI-Fishing-Portable-Shelter-Folding/dp/B006BCKE52
there are lots of similar models, search for 'hub' or 'pop up' ice shanty
plus a mr. heater little buddy:
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F215100-3800-BTU-Indoor-Safe/dp/B001CFRF7I
(Links are not an endorsement, they provide a photo and may help you find the product locally. Some little bitch on this sub had a meltdown over that because she wanted to fix the issue today, and wanted to know what to buy locally. Apparently showing her a picture of what the product looked like so she could pick it up at the local bigbox hardware store is a crime against humanity.)
Q:How does one hook up a 20# just for use on a 2 burner Coleman stove?
If you only use the propane for your stove and have a home base, you can get buy with a much smaller, approved refillable tank. photo The problem with full-timing with this is you can't use the propane exchange cages located at nearly every gas station, walmart, and hardware store. You must get it refilled in person or refill it yourself. (You will also go through the tiny tank quickly if you're heating your van)
I have a home base, and my current setup is a tiny space. I use refilled disposable bottled propane for the stove and space heating. I keep the bulk tank at home. The heater is no longer sold but it's equivalent to the smallest buddy heater. photo I run it for 10 minutes before going to sleep or getting out of the sleeping bag, and for this use it's all I need. But then again I'm not trying to live like this full time.
Q: Can you hook up a hot water heater to the 20# and not have to use electric?
Maybe? I boil water in a pot and use an adapted weed sprayer to shower with. But I'm not full time.
It seems hugely inconvenient to carry around a big propane canister just to lug it outside for my stove every morning, but the cost may be worth it, then?
Yep. I cook on the tailgate when the weather is good. Like I said I refill the disposables before the trip and save a $1.50 each time. Might not be worth it to you.
*I would never fill something like that on my own. Not gonna fuk with propane and blow myself up.**
It requires some care, but it's easy. You just weigh the bottle when empty and write the weight of the tank itself on it with a black magic marker. When the tank is full, just make sure the total weight, minus the tare is less than 1 pound (or less than 12 ounces on some disposable cylinders.) They're actually hard to overfill but you need an adapter and a kitchen scale.
This is probably out of your price range - http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F215100-3800-BTU-Indoor-Safe/dp/B001CFRF7I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1416249690&sr=8-4&keywords=indoor+heater+propane - ($70.57) but I have one of these and have used it for several power outages during the winter. Its safe to use inside for some scientific reason. The material that heats up looks like a super porous lava rock, how that makes it safe indoors is beyond me, but I'm not dead yet, so it must be working. It puts out quite a bit of heat, and in your car you wouldn't need to run it too long I imagine.
have you ever used those tent warmers? e.g. something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F215100-3800-BTU-Indoor-Safe/dp/B001CFRF7I/ref=br_lf_m_1001559521_1_3_ttl?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&pf_rd_p=1886020042&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_t=1401&pf_rd_i=1001559521&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=001WGCW137VXZNZR36C5
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F215100-3800-BTU-Propane/dp/B001CFRF7I
Not to mention everything smelling like smoke. Just got back from camping and now I get to do a bunch of laundry, Good Times.
Its 60 bucks + propane but I'm looking at this little indoor heater https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F215100-3800-BTU-Propane/dp/B001CFRF7I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=little+buddy&qid=1573736689&sr=8-3
Perhaps something like this?
link
Its advertised as emitting CO2 and has an auto shutoff sensor for if/wehn it is tipped over or detects high levels of CO2
They make a smaller one but it's still kinda chunky.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CFRF7I#Ask
This one? I can't figure out if it goes lower than my current one's lowest setting
I use these to boost the AC flow:
https://www.amazon.com/SUNCOURT-INC-HC500-W-Register-Booster/dp/B001WT6S5Y/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=vent+fan&qid=1563467741&s=gateway&sr=8-4
this is a common setup in older homes that originally had (as another commenter has said) only a single source of heat like a wood stove, located in a central location. short or adding a secondary heat source to the upstairs bedroom/level, your goal should be to increase circulation of warm air from below to above. installing something like this should be a first step. get one(s) that is/are sized to fit your openings. i think they even sell ones that are hard wired, giving you a cleaner look. hope that helps!
Hey Craig, thank you for the response. Dampers, that's the word I was looking for in my original post. I've dampened a number of the downstairs vents in an effort to get more air upstairs but haven't really been met with success there either.
These are the booster fans that I put in the registers in a couple of the rooms upstairs, and they do help a little: Suncourt Flush Fit Register Air Booster Fan - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WT6S5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TeTrzb0VAJDBJ
Are there other types of booster fans that I should be considering?
The temps aren't completely unbearable, so I don't necessarily see value in dropping a few grand on a zoning system, but I appreciate that suggestion all the same.
You could try installing a fan to increase the airflow from your a/c to the office. Something like this may be enough: Suncourt Flush Fit Register Air Booster Fan - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WT6S5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YCmWzbNYFS94M
You may have to get a larger fan than that, but the strategy would be the same. Try partially closing registers in rooms that get too cold first. See if that redirects more air to the office.
We have a couple of these, one in each vehicle and they pull double duty when the power goes out in the house. Propane is cheaper, safer and easier to store for us.
This specific heater has a low oxygen and tip over auto shutoff. We also pair it with a carbon monoxide detector in each room one is running.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ex6eub1PV0R5W
I'd recommend going on Amazon and sorting by best reviews. You really can't go wrong that way. Once you find two or three models you like, check out if those models are sold at walmart, costco, sams club, etc. first. If they're cheaper there, get them (although I seriously think Amazon's customer service makes even a slightly more expensive purchase worth it).
Although, like the others suggested, maybe go with something that's not electric? It's slightly less convenient, but a better deal (and, hey! That's sorta what we're here for, right?) but here's the highest rated space heater on Amazon currently. It's about the price of a nice electric heater, but possibly more cost effective.
link
The only thing I found my self not truly prepared for was heating my home in an emergency. Thankfully the oven is gas and we just cranked up the oven and opened the door a bit. It was cold in the outside rooms but the living room and kitchen were warm. I was thinking of getting one of these as they say they are safe for indoors but I am kinda skeptical, burning propane emits CO.
Why not just buy the $70 Mr. Buddy??
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1504558716&sr=8-1&keywords=mr+heater+buddy&linkCode=sl1&tag=gh-byovan-20&linkId=388d2975fdb92edb12b0ad626232a5d0
Propane heater
Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Propane Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_A6yDDb4CB1JKR
And for when it's hot , we hang on the Olympic peninsula
I'd agree with u/muelleej that propane is definitely the way to go for occasional use heat like this. I'd personally recommend a catalytic type heater instead of a direct fired burner though, as the catalytic ones don't produce carbon monoxide. Even when rated for indoor operation, they can still burn up all the oxygen in the room (most have safety shutoffs if o2 gets too low) so you'd need to keep a door or window cracked none the less, but they're a much safer alternative for indoor use.
edit: Here's an example, I have no idea if this brand or model is any good though: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_8fyCDbWPJPNC8
For a laptop, 130 Watts; for a radio, another 140W, for the USB, 5 Watts, for the camera, 10-15 Watts. For the heater, 1000 Watts, but we'll get to that later. While it might sound like a 350 W continuous inverter would be enough, in truth, they aren't really meant to run at maximum power, and the life expectancy will be drastically reduced. A 750 Watt inverter would be good enough to run everything except the heater.
To power the inverter, you probably want a good deep-cycle battery or two. For calculating how much battery you need, just take the wattage you need and multiply it by the time you need it to run, divide it by the Voltage (12V) and that gives you amp hours (Ah), which is a rating on any battery. You probably want to add a couple, if you calculate that you need 6 Ah, you might want to get an 8 Ah battery because the inverter and the power supplies for your electronics are not 100% efficient..
If you wire the battery(s) and the inverter together, and put them in an egg crate, it's definitely portable. But if you just want a portable drop-in solution, then a UPS may work best.
You can avoid the inverter by buying an automotive DC adapter for your laptop, a USB car adapter, and another automotive DC adapter for the camera. The total cost for all those is going to be roughly equivalent to the inverter but it massively improves the efficiency.
Now, for the heater. You're not going to practically be able to power a heater electrically with batteries. It's not efficient, and the energy density of batteries just isn't where it needs to be. I suggest bundling up, and using something like this, go to Ace hardware, etc and get naptha for fuel, (Should be about $5/quart) or this Using a 20 lb propane cylinder and a hose adapter can make it much cheaper to run.
I say split it. Canvas tent and a mr Heater.
Grab one of these.
http://www.kodiakcanvas.com/10-x-14-ft-flex-bow-vx-tent/
And get a buddy heater. That’s what I do. Also get a CO detector that runs on batteries.
Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Propane Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rGJ3BbEGK272F
First Alert CO400 Carbon Monoxide Detector, Battery Operated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8OYXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dHJ3Bb65YD12X
On super cold nights I’ll let it run, but usually I operate it to keep the ten warm while I’m awake at night getting in my bag or in the morning when I wake up to warm up before I get dressed.
Used this setup in 20deg F camping with my two kids and wife. Heater can more than keep up. Also comes with a tip sensor and Ox sensor. But can always use a backup.
19 hours without power...didn't get below 54 in the house..not bad. EVERY person on my block assured me this was highly unusual. I must have jinxed us. Learning my lessons as I go.
I regretted replacing the leaky old gas kitchen stove. meaning i had no serious way to make fire. I ended up putting a candle in a perforated spoon holder from ikea to make tea. and ordered a small stove Esbit Lightweight Camping Stove for Use with Solid Fuel Tablets as long as i can cook tea and ramen i can deal with nearly anything.
I immediately topped off my iphone and kindle with the laptop, and eventually used the small battery charger to recharge the iphone, though i could always charge both in the truck. I order a new battery pack charger that does everything Intocircuit® 11200mAh Power Castle Heavy Duty 5V 2A/1A Dual USB Ports External Battery Pack Charger I really don't think that eton crank radio charges iphones very well.
For the rest of the season i have my eye on a little propane heater.
Using a generator for a space heater is inefficient. It's also expensive.
If all you need is heat, go for a catalytic propane space heater. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU
That one is expensive at $70, you can get decent models as cheap as $20 that screw onto the top of a Coleman propane cylinder.
This is what I use
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU
Camping and in my hunting blind
In a tent, I would really only use it to warm up in morning. Or periodically before bed.
WAAAAHHHHHH!
Be prepared.
indoor heat (works in Queens)
I've got a Mr. Heater Buddy for my tiny camper:
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU
It's approved for indoor use and you can get a propane tank to hook it to that will last you months. For my camper I basically use it to take the edge off.
Try a Heater Buddy.
Used one September through near the end of November while traveling through colder areas in Montana & Wyoming. Lifesaver.
Only downsides are the little tanks only last 6 hours so you have to wake up and re-light. Bigger tanks are an option though.
Might be wise to buy a carbon monoxide detector just incase. It says you can use it indoors but I don't know how small and tightly sealed your van is.
There are actual indoor safe versions at least according to packaging since it has a oxygen safety in it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AVS1DbB2XX224
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU
Run that for a little bit, turn off and go to sleep. Wake up cold, run it again till its hot in there, turn off and go to sleep. Rinse and repeat as needed.
You could use an indoor-safe propane heater.
For example, Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Propane Radiant Heater for $70 on Amazon.com would heat rooms up to 225 sq ft.
At full blast it uses 0.099 gal/hr so a typical 20 lb (4.7 galllon) tank used for most gas grills should last for almost two days of continuous use. A separate hose and/or filter may need to be purchased to use the heater with a tank larger than 1 lb. See this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dmLLngjb3s
Electric blanket is an energy hog, not worth it.https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU
THIS is what we use. But we still use a sleeping bag. heats it up enough to where you can put on your pj's though.
It doesn't snow here in L.A. so I don't worry about heating, but I have herd from a lot of people here that this is the perfect thing to own if it snows where you are, or if it is too cold. http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU I'd suggest you give it a try for the winter. It has really good rating here and in amazon, so it likely is very good. It has a built in detector for oxygen levels, but you should also pick up a Co2 sensor. I got one. Go check out the ford transit connect with the EcoBoost engine. It is smaller than the express, but has better millage. If you want MPG go for the Transit Connect, but if you want space then Try out the Chevrolet Express, or if you have the money pick up the Long Wheel Base Ram Pro master. It is half a foot longer than the Long Wheel Base Chevrolet Express. Anything longer than that is a Mini-Bus and those won't give you great MPG. Longest vans are the Long Wheel Base Chevrolet Express and the Long Wheel Base Ram ProMaster. The ProMaster being Half a foot longer than the Express. It'll be expensive to own an RV+Car. If you use the shower/toilet you will also have to go to a dump station every so often and refill the water tank. These are just things you will have to do on top of everything else. I don't recommend dumping the water on the street since it gives a bad image. If you do get an RV though I suggest you get like a Geo metro, something that gives you a lot of MPG because you will be returning to the same location everyday. I guess it would depend on how mobile you want to be. For me I travel about 10-15 miles mon - sat then do about 20 - 25 on sunday. Not much, but it is better to stay at the place you are going to than having to return to your RV on a daily basis. It just doubles the drive. that also cuts down on the MPG of the car you use since you have to drive around more. Then there are the other expenses I mentioned. If the RV has the fridge, stove, toilet, heater, ac, pump, and electricity working then it could be worth it. but you have to make sure they work. It would be like returning to a regular house. Other wise it would be like going back to a large boxy van.
you buy one built for it on amazon, Mr. be incredibly polite to people answering your questions on reddit.
we use a https://amzn.to/2pO7jOu when needed. we usually crank it up around dinner time when were done running around get it to a warm temperature and shut it off before bed. Durning the night we just use a good sleeping bag or many confuters. Never had any problems yet. It has gotten down to 17 inside the van, to the point where we've had an icicle coming out of our manual pump faucet. Crank up the heater in the morning, get back in bed for 10 minutes so the van get to a manageable temp then start breakfast. Also a tip we've learned.
10 minutes or so before arriving where we will park for the night we crank the heater of the van on full blast pushing all the hot air into the rear compartment of the van. Usually works great for us. sometimes it even eliminates the need for the mr buddy.
I made a bad microsoft paint diagram of my situation. I need to make a laundry room in my garage. Door with a swing leads to the back yard, the door with poorly drawn stairs to the house. Ive been researching ideas and came up with this. Would it be easier to pipe all the gas and water up to the ceiling with insulation and pipe heating cable to the storage room then just something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Lasko-5624-Profile-Silent-Heater/dp/B002Q4EYEQ/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1520041893&sr=8-14&keywords=electric+baseboard+heater
https://www.amazon.com/Heat-24-feet-Heating-Cable-Thermostat/dp/B01GZJJ96A/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521139049&sr=1-1&keywords=pipe+heat+cord&dpID=41zjwIbQ3LL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
in the storage room set to 37 or is there a better solution Anyone can think of?
There is a gas line already on this wall, but no gas goes on with the valve so ill have to figure that out, and the kitchen is on the other side so i can tap into hot water and drill through the wall.
Thanks for any help.
Bi-fold or accordion doors would work fine. At low temperatures all you need to do is keep the slightly warmer air from floating away. You cannot punch a hole through the wall for warm air without putting in a fire damper, the wall between the house and garage is supposed to be fire rated. I'd suggest a little electric heater like this one. It's lowest set point is 39 degrees and in a confined space like that little closet it would hardly run at all. Just locate it near one of the sides of the washer and it will never freeze. You could also do heat trace on your water pipe and wrap a couple coils underneith the washer and secure it to the bottom.
Dont forget to vent the dryer to the outside as well.
Hell, if you want to buy the one off of me I'll sell it to ya. I had that but bought too many of the little Coleman canisters and thought to myself that I'd hate to be left out in the cold if the propane ran out even with a 20lb tank, so I switched to this thing:
http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Infrared-Heater-DR988-Industrial/dp/B003XOZN7A
Got it on Woot for like $80. Wired up a 240V outlet and the thing heats up the garage very nicely and as long as I've got electricity, I've got heat.
BTW, though the Big Buddy is rated for indoor use, put a CO detector in your garage.
How much heating are you looking for here? I am very happy with the 19,000 BTU 5600 watt electric one I got before last winter. I live in PA and we had some 0 F days last winter. If you are keeping the garage door closed for the most part, it should do the trick.
My garage is 24x26x10 with two single doors, both insulated. House built in 2007, so decent insulation.
http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Infrared-Heater-DR988-Industrial/dp/B003XOZN7A
I chopped the plug off and put this one on to match my welder outlets (notice the tabs can be rotated either way - in the picture, it looks like a 30A plug but I have it set up for a 50A shape): http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-931-Angle-Grounding-Black/dp/B00004YUKC
I use a cheap 220v electric heater on mild days and supplement it with a propane radiant heater when it gets really cold (mid-Michigan area). Shop is about 400 sq. ft. with 12’ ceilings and not much insulation. Links to the models I have are listed below. If I had to do it over I would have gone with a wall mounted 220v heater.
Dr. Infrared Heater DR-988 Garage Shop 208/240V, 4800/5600W Heater with 6-30R Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XOZN7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yXtGDbRE5H2PT
Mr. Heater MH35LP 35,000-BTU Propane Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000C6E3B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YXtGDbF1FA0D3
These are great for quickly throwing out a ton of heat, but no thermostat. It's either on or off and it's manual.
Dyna-Glo RMC-FA60DGD 30,000 - 60,000 BTU Liquid Propane Forced Air Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044R8Y5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sHQACbN962RT7
Although it may seem a bit pricey, something like this will heat your workout space in a jiffy. You'll have to buy propane and a tank for it, but you'll be warm and toasty while hitting those reps all winter.
[This] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044R8Y5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_f2uCwbD48E84V) is the heater I bought. Fair warning though, I have not yet turned it on so I can't speak to its effectiveness. We had a heat wave and I haven't needed it.
I installed 3/4” foam panels from Lowe’s. They come in 4’x8’ sheets and cut easily with a razor blade. I don’t remember the exact cost but was half the price of the “garage insulation kit” Lowe’s sold. It was my first winter so I can’t say exactly how much of a difference it made, but I hate the cold so any little bit was worth it to me! I also have this propane forces air heater that I run about 5-10min as I drink my preworkout to take the bite out of the air!
Dyna-Glo RMC-FA60DGD 30,000 - 60,000 BTU Liquid Propane Forced Air Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044R8Y5I?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Edit: pic of one of my doors
https://imgur.com/gallery/Tat5S
From my research, there was only one truly safe space heater for toddlers
Wow, kerosine? My Dad grew up with kerosine heaters, that's old school!!! 15a, 250w, standard 120v outlet http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413063415&sr=8-1&keywords=eco+wall+heater
I've heard great things about these!
I know the feeling of being too cold to work on stuff--I used to work in a home office that was FREEZING. I just got this awesome heater on Amazon that takes up no space and is actually quite effective in heating up a room. Might be worth the investment if you plan on working there the rest of the winter? It uses so little wattage you can even leave it on all the time so you don't have to wait for the room to heat up to work.
http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W
Ceramic Tile Heater
These things are awesome, they each use as much electricty as a 100w light bulb.
We use them in the bedrooms at night. We'll turn them on about an hour before bedtime. Then when we go to bed, we'll turn the heat way down. The tile heaters do a great job at maintaining the room's temperature throughout the night.
In the morning, our programmable thermostat slowly warms the place back up.
We've saved about 40% on our heating bill last year.
The thermostat is a Honeywell WiFi Thermostat (RTH6580WF)
The AC adapter was not made by Honeywell. I chose the LockState Connect LS-24VAC 24 Vac Adaptor. Here is a link to the product,
http://www.amazon.com/LockState-Connect-LS-24VAC-Adaptor-LS-90i/dp/B0071IWJ7G?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Thanks for your reply
Thank you!
So it's looking like I'll be following something like this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BgDseEF-4OY
After purchasing something like this : http://www.amazon.com/LockState-Connect-LS-24VAC-Adaptor-LS-90i/dp/B0071IWJ7G
Then, I'll plug one wire into C, and the other into Rc!
Thanks for taking the time to explain.
Yes, the Transformer is a wall plug with 24V DC output: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/triad-magnetics/WSU240-0500/237-1459-ND/3094985
The Ecobee is turning on with 24VDC though which confuses me.
So, I'm thinking about ordering this fella which should do the trick, right: https://www.amazon.com/LockState-Connect-LS-24VAC-Adaptor-LS-90i/dp/B0071IWJ7G/
Edit: I would also need a AC relay then I guess, right? Guess I was just assuming DC in the entire circuit. Never did any AC electronics so far...
Edit 2: Just found this quote: "the incoming voltage to the ecobee interface unit is 24V AC (alternating current) but the power going to the thermostat is 12V DC" here https://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2010/11/product-review-ecobee-smart-thermostat/
You may be wondering what this has to do with auto repair.
Induction heating tools are available for auto shops to heat rusted fasteners in places where an open flame is not safe, or where it would cause damage to nearby components. They cost around $500 and once you try one you will wonder how you ever got along without it.
Here is one of them:
https://www.amazon.com/Induction-Innovations-MD-700-Mini-Ductor-Magnetic/dp/B008XN9HO6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504275164&sr=8-2&keywords=induction+innovations
There's a tool called the miniductor that does the same thing in a portable unit. I don't know what the max temp it will achieve is, but one time I sat a nut on top of a little plastic jack in the box toy and started heating it. It melted all the way through lol.
Last thing I used it for, had a trailer hitch (the piece with the ball) the customer wanted out, but it was rusted in place. Wrapped this thing around the receiver part (that the square hitch slides into) and it heated it to about 350°F, but the "cord" was still cool enough to touch.
These things work... just a ton of money for DIY use. https://www.amazon.com/Induction-Innovations-MD-700-Mini-Ductor-Magnetic/dp/B008XN9HO6
I think you are looking for something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YbI0Bb3RN8WPX
Too much moisture in the AC evaporator coil box, it gets mildew in there.
​
If you turn the AC off and let the fan run fresh air for the last few minutes before you stop driving, it makes a big difference. This helps dry out the box that holds the evap coils.
​
You may need to start with a cleaning of the coils, and then make a habit out of letting it dry out to prevent it from getting funky again.
​
I had some of this stuff already, so I basically pulled the fan out and sprayed it into the box with the coils. Probably better to get toyota's refresher kit if you don't want to deal with that mess (it's a real PITA!). Alternately, you may find a way to attach a hose to the cleaner I linked and squirt it up the drain tube for the evaporator box.
Is it a window AC, are you talking about the exterior or interior coil?
You can use a no-rinse cleaner like this on the interior coil, they're not as effective but still work pretty well. Just don't overdo it and be sure to run the AC for at least an hour or two after. The idea behind "no rinse" cleaners is to run the AC and let the condensation cycle rinse it for you.
Just a note on this- I have a similar paranoia and I have benefitted IMMENSELY from a clothing heater I got off amazon
I originally got it bc I used to travel for work and was nervous about picking anything up, and it’s great- toss the whole suitcase in, set the timer, good to go :)
Now I use it whenever I get something pre-owned from posh or from thrifting- totally worth the investment for peace of mind if you travel or frequent thrift shops :)
Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!
Here is what I have purchased so far.
12v 6a 72w power supply
ZVS Heater and Coil Combo
Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.
[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.
So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.
Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.
EDIT - MOSFET
Momentary Buttons
Mounting things for the momentary buttons
IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.
I don't know much about this. I like induction heating. Is this something to make one from?
ZVS Driver Module,5V-12V ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Power Supply Board+Heating Coil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNM24YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xuQ2Db4SY3TA9
It's actually pretty simple. At it's most basic, try this comment from /u/improvaper
https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/a4xzkk/finally_jumped_on_the_dynavap_bandwagon_and_got/ebij6op
Make an induction heater! It's cheap and easy. I've been blasting my instructions everywhere around here lately. If you're interested, let me know and I'll blast them again here. :)
It's definitely worth the (extremely little) effort.
Edit: blasting:
I made mine for about $30 with parts available on Amazon:
Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ
Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/
Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB
Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE
Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's standard screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.
First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.
Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).
Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).
Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!
Are these the buddy heaters you’re talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B01DD6C4MY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mr%2Bbuddy%2Bheater&qid=1569008572&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
>Size isn't too much of a factor cause I'm not sleeping in it, but being able to fit a few people would be nice.
So which is it? A two person tent is enough for two people facing each other, but more than that can be a problem. I respect the fire hazards of a heater too much to use it in a 2 person tent. Not to mention the short height. At a minimum, I'd want a 3 person tent if I were the only person in it with the heater, a 4 person tent for 2-3 people in the tent with the heater. The problem is a large 4 person tent takes a lot of time to heat up. I'd say my Mr Heater takes about 10 minutes before I start feeling the heat, and about 45 minutes before the tent finishes heating, and that only takes it from about 35°F to 50°F where it stops getting hotter because the tent is just too large for the heater and one warm body. If you want to be able to stand almost anywhere in the tent, you'll probably have to get a 6 person tent. To heat that at all, you need a larger heater than a Mr Buddy, and heating the area quickly is going to require a heater that puts out several times as many BTU's. This is the smallest I'd even consider for a tent that large for heating that area before you're done with your smoke. Either heater is already over half your ideal budget, and you still need to buy fuel, or a tank plus fuel for the second heater.
Maybe you should get multiple options. Maybe a popup "bathroom" tent for when you're solo, and a patio heater if you have a group.
Another problem is the type of smoking you're doing. I would not smoke cigarettes in a tent with a floor. Super dangerous. Vaping might be okay. Some would say using a heater or vaping in a tent with synthetic fabric is super dangerous, and I can't disagree. At least if I'm by myself, I can manage the risk. Adding others into the mix serious cranks up the danger.
If you do not have a big enough tent for this, they do make a Mr Buddy that has a tipover and an oxygen sensor. Some people still won't trust this in a tent, but it would be much safer than the lantern if you need heat. If not super cold, maybe think about heated blankets (they make battery powered ones), or those hot hand packets. If it is cold enough, Propane heaters can also be a problem due to the moisture they add to the air.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01DD6C4MY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?slotNum=7&keywords=tent+heaters+for+camping&ie=UTF8&sr=8-6&imprToken=8fm8QwFppnQmWplHn3mD7w&linkCode=ll1&tag=gudgear0c-20&linkId=1a5e7bdcfbebed209b509c3d1c9b64c3
Most people use this with a large propane tank connected: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F274830-Indoor-Safe-Portable-x/dp/B01DD6C4TC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542126489&sr=8-3&keywords=mr+buddy+heater
It is a Mr. Heater propane heater. They are awesome and really work well. They have different models and ours is called a Big Buddy.
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F274830-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B01DD6C4TC
We got our first one during an ice storm in 2009. We were without power for a week and didn’t have wood for our fireplace. These little heaters were a life saver. We use them every winter now to supplement our central heat.
I got this last fall, and used it all winter. It took my single car garage and got up to near 65 degrees while it was in the teens outside. Highly recommend also getting the long hose that goes out to a 20lb tank. Note: Keep your tank outside and run the hose through a door.window.hole.
Mr. Heater F274830 MH18BRV Big Buddy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DD6C4TC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hose & regulator - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UC7966/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
LGs are probably fine units but I'm pretty sure will be much less efficient when the outdoor temperature is freezing or below. How long it would take for the cost of less efficiency to be equal to the extra upfront cost of the Fujitsu I have no idea.
Also inefficient but much cheaper is https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXEZV/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_0YEODb03NEGA8
Which is what the previous owners of my house installed.
Be aware also that most thermostats can't be set below 50 degrees or 45 degrees meaning that you may have to heat the garage up to that temperature to prevent it from freezing (which water a lot of energy). The one in in my garage doesn't go down below about 50 so I only use it to heat the garage when I'm going to be working there, not for freezing protection.
It can be difficult to determine from a listing how low you can set the thermostat.
What I do in my garage:
one of these will keep you warm and keep the condensation off the windows
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F215100-3800-BTU-Propane/dp/B001CFRF7I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511091556&sr=8-1&keywords=little+buddy+heater
If you're car camping in cold temperatures a lot, and have a little spare floor space and decent ventilation, a propane heater is a wonderful luxury item. Our Mr Buddy is sufficient for keeping our 10 person tent probably 20F warmer than outside. Camping with groups of friends who spend a lot of nights in the the cold, everyone who comes in our tent and experiences it winds up buying one of their own...
Burns through 2 1lb propane bottles per night, unless you have a 20lb tank w/ adapter and extension hose so you can store it outside the tent.
Again, you MUST have a vent open, though. Maybe even a battery powered CO alarm. CO poisoning is no joke.
A good alternative for things that can't be dried, such as shoes, is to leave them in the freezer. Temperature below -18 celsius will kill bedbugs. The additional upside to this is that freezers won't damage your clothes the way dryers do, but the downside is that the recommended time to leave clothes in the freezer is 4 days.
The other option that I can think of is to use a bedbug oven , which theoretically should be friendlier on shoes than dryers, although some of the reviews on Amazon were complaining that the oven melted some of the rubbery parts of their shoes- so use at your own risk.
A great thing to purchase is a mr heater. it's a heater for inside the tent, you need to slightly open some windows because it's a propane heater. If my wife is happy with the temperature at night she loves camping.
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU
I use a Mr Heater Portable Buddy when I take my family car camping in cold weather. We use it to heat an REI Kingdom 6 which is a lot of cubic ft and it works fantastic. I know for sure one night it was below freezing but it stayed around 60F in the tent.
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU
I highly recommend getting the adapter so you can connect it to a large propane tank instead of one the small ones.
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Buddy-Series-Assembly/dp/B001CFWF5U