Best heatsinks according to redditors

We found 1,353 Reddit comments discussing the best heatsinks. We ranked the 288 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Heatsinks:

u/th3st0rmtr00p3r · 68 pointsr/Amd

The good news, creating my own substrate out of thermal pads and the use of a graphite pad was EXTREMELY effective, but also quite risky in the channels of the DIE and HBM. You can see closely that the silicon has chipped off after a couple of times I dug out my DIY substrate with metal tweezers. This was my resolution for about a week and you can see my largest problem here is board warp from my custom mount. I was working to fix this warping so my mounting pressure was even and this is when I was not paying attention as mis-assembled the water block mount.


Final Products:

  • Polyimide Film Adhesive Tape

  • Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad

  • Arctic - Thermal Pad 145 x 145 x 1.0 mm

    YMMV, I would recommend a 1.5mm pad for the surround. The channel needs to be vertically installed and 1.0mm was good for me but installation must be meticulous. Several cuts for the channels should be made to optimize single installation, correct height with no overlap and appropriate top-to-bottom coverage. Do not use a metal pick/tweezers, cut a Q-Tip at an angle to create a channel clearing device Protect your chip giblits with the Polyimide tape or nail polish, preferred over cutting the thermal pad, the extra pad is desired for mounting variability.
u/darklynx4 · 38 pointsr/buildapc

the blue (or any color) dots are called "artifacts".

there is generally 2 reasons why artifacts happen.

  1. your gpu, or more accurately your gpu memory is over heating.

  2. the card is defective. (whether it be manufacturer or the user who did it). and usually its not something you can cause by watching movies/playing games and etc. its more like you dropped the card or you spilled something on it, etc type of damage.

    Ive heard people say bad/corrupt drivers can cause it, but i myself have never seen such a case.

    So first thing, if you overclocked you card higher then stock factory overclocks, definitely return it back to stock.
    Even if you didnt overclock the card, and its factory overclocked, try underclocking it (memory more importantly). Just to see if that fixes the problem. i mean running like 20mhz less may fix the problem and not affect performance much and is a free fix.

    If that gets rid of it, then its either the card isnt stable at those OC or more likely is that at that clock speed, it is running too hot. (and you can usually only monitor the temp of the gpu itself, and not things like the graphics card VRM and memory chips)
    So your gpu could be running at 50C and your gpus memory chips are running at 90C and you wont have any way of knowing (other then things like artifacts starting to happen).

    So another thing to want to do/try is get better case airflow. you definitely want some intake fans blowing on your gpu. (so you can do things like remove the hdd cages on some cases, or just atleast move your hdds down so the fan isnt being blocked by the physical drives).

    the 4850 is a pretty old card, and as old cards go, they run VERY hot compared to modern cards. and also because its old, thermal solutions are likely not being as effective as they were (like the thermal tape on your memory is probably shot and the thermal compound on the gpu is probably on its way out aswell)

    If you want to keep your gpu, you can try getting some thermal tape and putting it on the memory chips, or better yet get gpu memory heatsinks (the cheaper ones should be fine). something like or

    you may also want to think about removing your gpus heatsink, and cleaning off the stock thermal compound and replacing it with something else. (my personal fav lately has been arctic MX-2 and MX-4)

    But know all this could be for nothing too. and if you were to buy heatsinks and compound and maybe an extra fan, you could be out $20-25 for not much in return and still need to purchase another card on top of it.
u/Kyrond · 22 pointsr/buildapc

Just my opinion, I am no expert, but these seem like the best choices as they are popular, and consideration how much work it would take to design them.
Also check the most popular on Amazon, Newegg and PC part picker.

CPUs from one socket look almost the same right?
So a LGA 1151 and AM3+ CPUs.

For RAM, classic PCB with black chips, maybe another one with a very simple heatspreader in different colors, as it would take quite a lot of work to create realistic heatspreaders for little benefit IMO.

Any HDD, they all look similar.

For SSDs, Samsung are the most popular and very simple to do.

Three most popular CPU coolers prolly are CRYORIG H7, Hyper 212 EVO, and Corsair H100i, maybe with addition of a single fan AIO like Corsair H55.

GPUs are tougher:

u/MrChumDrumBedrum · 15 pointsr/overclocking

My PC:

  • 7700k @ 4.8 Ghz
  • ASUS STRIX Z270E mobo
  • Kraken x52 AIO
  • 16 gigs g.skill ram @ 3200
  • Gigabyte 970 (soon to be replaced with a 2070 this month)

    I built this PC back in 2017 and the CPU temps have been terrible since day 1.

    With my daily driver overclock of 4.8 Ghz, 100% utilization for more than 10 minutes would push CPU temps into the mid 90's. Heavy gaming (~50% utilization) would regularly cause temps in the upper 70's or low 80's.

    After browsing around here and Youtube I found that the problem was likely Intel's thermal paste under the IHS, so for just over $30 I bought:

  • A $13 Delid Tool
  • A $7 pack of sandpaper
  • Conductonaut Liquid Metal for $16

    I then delidded my CPU, spent over an hour sanding down my IHS, then applied liquid metal under the IHS and Artic MX-4 above (which I had laying around). I chose not to re-seal the IHS after reading some comments here.

    Now my CPU temps idle in the 30's, stay in the 40's while gaming and rarely ever hit the 50's.

    For CPU temps to break into the 60's, I have to run 100% utilization for over 15 minutes (as shown), which doesn't even happen in my day-to-day use.

    So pretty happy overall.
u/pmMeGoodUsernames · 15 pointsr/buildapcforme

I’d get a 3900x instead as since OP lives on an island, shopping would be a pain if he wants to upgrade (albeit unnecessary) and because it’d be more future proof.

If he wants to get a 9900k, then the NH-D15SE AM4 r is better as it’s a very hot chip.

OP I’d get this for your heatsink aswell to make it look nice.

u/YaGottadoWhatYaGotta · 15 pointsr/ValveIndex

You might wanna see what AMD does unless money is no concern, then sure, but really still I would wait.

Oh and its pretty easy to put in a cpu, I did it successfully with no help when I was 13, just make sure to use thermal paste.

A youtube video will do fine.

u/Alexlam24 · 14 pointsr/tifu

Either get a new battery or try reapplying the thermal solution. This should be perfect for no hassle. Just keep hand oils off it.

u/DyceFreak · 11 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Can even be more of a badass and replace the thermal material with this

u/caller-number-four · 11 pointsr/buildapc

> removing the CPU cooler would scuff up the thermal paste most likely.

Stop using paste!

Works just as well and you can remove it as often as you want.

u/cautiouslyoptimistic · 11 pointsr/buildapc
u/bigluke575 · 10 pointsr/buildapc

Definitely! The thermal paste and pads come with the GPU but they just use a standard one of sorts. Aftermarket thermal compounds work better and lower temps a bit more, which could mean everything in terms of thermal throttling.

Here are the thermal pads that I bought.. I cut them into strips and placed them over the place where you see "SFC" near the blue circles on the PCB.

Here is the thermal paste I used on both by GPU and CPU. I used a dot formation on the CPU and an "X" formation on the GPU.

Hope this helps!

u/dank4tao · 10 pointsr/Amd

Also consider applying a liquid metal thermal past like conductonaut, but only if you like making a deal with the devil. Actually don't consider it, but if you did it will drastically reduce your thermals on the GPU die... but if you are sloppy and get it anywhere it will kill the board because its well conductive. But then worst of all, it's highly corrosive and dissolves alumnium into a dust. So you can only really apply it if you have a copper/nickel heatsink. That said, if you are total badass grab some 33+ tape, tape down the perimeter of the gpu and apply the thinnest possible application of the liquid metal TIM. Like pea method is way too much, but you can use the syringe to "suck-up" after the fact but before you spread. When spreading by the grace of god be careful. Any speck on anything the heat-spreader on the GPU has the potential to short circuit or corrode any component. But then you can drop your thermals about 20C over stock paste, and about 10C over ceramic (non-conductive) paste. Which should help your device live a bit longer until prices can come down... or force you to buy a new one now if you mess up.

Here's the devil's bargain for about $20USD.

u/PhamQu · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

May I suggest that you switch out the low profile Noctua cooler for the [Cryorig H7]?
It'd offer cooler temps at a lower noise, and looks great, in my opinion.

Other than that, impressive build!

u/endlessfield · 9 pointsr/gpdwin

Has anyone attempted using a thermal pad like the IC graphite thermal pad?

u/giantfood · 8 pointsr/pcmasterrace

1 gallon = 3,785.4118 grams. Simplify to 3,785.4 grams

Artic silver Thermal paste costs $6.10 for 3.5 grams

3,785.4 x 51 = 193,055.4 grams.

193,055.4 / 3.5 = 55,158.68 tubes of thermal paste. Simplify to 55,159 as you cant buy 6/10 of a tube.

55,159 x $6.10 = $336,469.90 Considerable amount more for Artic silver thermal paste then a GPU.

Granted this is using a specific type of paste, you can buy mobiltherm 5 gallons for $112.00 but that is not designed for PC use, tho it would probably work.

u/Seconds_ · 8 pointsr/buildapc

Handy option - a thermal pad. Durable and re-usable alternate to paste.
Great if you want to practice attaching your cooler.

u/Stingray88 · 7 pointsr/hardware

You mean like these?

I've had a surprising amount of success with heatsinks like those on a few overclocked Raspberry Pis.

u/justjayhere_ · 7 pointsr/Amd

Yes inverted style case - Corsair's 600Q (non-windowed)- GPU: AMD RX 5700 XT Anniversary edition. Nice to finally have a inaudible build.

These are the Items I used:

u/paulatreides0 · 7 pointsr/neoliberal

/u/JetJaguar124 /u/Integralds

So first thing's first, Windows: ~$130 for Home Edition.

Okay, so things to keep in mind:

  1. If you go Intel, overclocking isn't too great on 9th gen intel, especially if you don't have a beefy aftermarket cpu cooler. So if you don't plan on doing that at some point then you don't need a K series CPU and an overclocking motherboard. So your motherboard should primarily focus on giving you decent I/O options.

  2. You also probably want to aim for 1080p or 1440p tops, given your price range.

  3. Related to #1: If you don't plan on overclocking then a basic-ish mobo will do fine, and you mainly want to focus on I/O and other features. If you are getting Intel doubly so, as, as I mentioned before, intel 9th gen doesn't overclock well due to relatively low headroom to begin with. For intel overclocking boards are "Z" while non-overclocking boards are "B". For AMD they are "X" and "B" respectively.

    The GPU you should be seeking to use is the 1660 Ti, which is basically a slightly gimped RTX 2060 but without the raytracing stuff. If you are willing to spend a bit more then you could get an RX 5700 instead, which is nearly ~30% faster on average.

    That'll put you at $270 - $360 depending on the model you pick. Yes, it's a third of your budget, but the GPU is the single most important part of your build.

    Secondly you'll want a decent CPU to go with that.

    The Ryzen 5 3600 looks like a pretty good CPU, its a bit under $200, its fairly beefy and extendable so it's somewhat "future-proof" - in that it shouldn't cause much bottlenecking and you could upgrade your GPU past a 2080 Ti before needing to change the processor.

    This MSI Tomohawk Mobo looks good for the 3600.

    So we're at ~$320 for that, or about $640 total. Plus windows that is ~$730.

    The RAM Inty recommended before should be fine. You only really need 16 GB. This will set you back ~$80. If you find yourself wanting more RAM later down the line you can always add another pair of sticks later and double up your RAM.

    That puts us at around ~$800.

    $80 for a 750W Fully Modular Corsair PSU is basically a steal. It's refurbished though, although that shouldn't be a problem - especially with a PSU.

    We're at ~$880.

    Some good thermal paste for your CPU.

    We're now at ~$890.

    Storage depends on what you want to do. Do you install a lot of stuff and files at once? In which case you might want to get a nice sized SSD plus a big HDD.

    For your system drive. Plenty of space, good price, AND its an nvme SSD.

    That makes for ~$990.

    If you need lots of extra space

    If you need extreme extra space

    Keyboard and case are up to you, decide as you please. For the case just make sure that it can support an ATX mobo, as the mobo listed here is full ATX. Mechanical keyboards are crack, but they tend to be more expensive so they're probably out of range. This will be another $100 to $150 depending on what you pick.

    Something to keep in mind though: Your case and your monitors are basically "future proof". In other words, they won't really get "worse" with time or cause future performance issues. So monitors and case are things where you want to consider what you'll eventually want and buy ahead, even if you have to stretch a bit.

    This just leaves your monitor. I would NOT recommend a 1080p monitor above 24 in. Honestly, if you can go for a 1440p monitor then do it. I'm a bit of a resolution whore tho, so if 1080p works for you then that's fine. I would also avoid TN panels - they tend to look more washed out, tinny, and have worse viewing angles . . . although they also tend to be a fair bit cheaper than the good panels (namely IPS panels).

    I used to own one of these . . . it was vvy vvy gud. This is a relatively artsy monitor, so if color gamut correctness or whatever is important for you for photo or video editing or whatever, then this is a good pick. It's a bit expensive, yeah, but also super gorgeous. It also goes up to 75 Hz. Conversely, get a freesync monitor, and this one is probably good - haven't done much research on it, but Dells are generally pretty good in my experience (my current 4K monitor is a Dell too). Freesync will allow you to basically eliminate screen tearing and will provide a smoother feeling experience because it will even out frame rates better.

    One last thing to keep in mind: Shopping around on ebay and other sites can save you a fair bit. My rule of thumb is to never, ever buy sensitive parts like hard-drives, cpus, or motherboards second hand or refurbished. But everything else is fair game. So refurbished GPUs, Monitors, PSUs, Cases, etc. should be fine. Pre-owned? Ehhh . . . that I'm much, much more sketchy on - personally I wouldn't, but that's just me.

    So in total it'd be somewhere in the range of $1500 including monitor, OS, case, and keyboard. The system itself is around $1000. But you can perhaps knock off a hundred bucks or two by shopping around and looking for where you can buy these parts cheaper than Amazon.

    But again: investing in a good monitor and case can be worth it. It means you won't have to replace it if/when you do upgrade. And worst case scenario you can offload your monitor as a side/secondary monitor when you upgrade your monitor to a new one.
u/ZizuX4 · 7 pointsr/modernwarfare

Replace. Thermal. Paste. No seriously though, best thing I ever did to my PS4 (bass model too actually) and it’s quiet and barely gets warm no matter what I play. See if a shop does it near you or YouTube it if you’re confident enough to do it yourself. Cleaning the dust out of it has never worked for me. I’m telling you, replace the thermal paste.

If you decide to do it yourself.

u/Evil_Potatos · 7 pointsr/Amd

Don't need thermal paste use graphite! It never dries out. Absolutly no mess never need to reapply and clean it. You cant screw it up no more putting to little or too much on. Best part is it dropped my temps by 2c over thermal grizzley kyronaut.

u/Hothicon · 6 pointsr/PS4Pro

Oh, you said you already had that so I assumed you didn't need it.

Gelid OC Extreme:

Grizzly Thermalpad:

NIDEC Fan: If you can find one at all and one that isn't shit like I got. They are hard and rare to get due to increased demand.
I got mine from here but it was damaged!98105!US!-1

u/Elgand · 6 pointsr/PS4

I don't have pics, sorry. However I can share a few other things to help -

  1. Heatsink
  2. HDMI Chip location
u/Slippery_Slug · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

Well the other day Rasberry Pi 3 Model B was $28 w/ free Shipping so:

Raspberry Pi- $28

32GB SD card- $13

2.5A Power Supply- $10

Heatsinks- $5

Case- $8

HDMI Cable- $7


Total- $ 71

I'd say it's an okay deal. I'd rather buy it bundled anyway, just so it all arrives at once.

u/melancholyway · 5 pointsr/Amd

Did you buy him the card already? The RX 470 and RX480 are coming at the end of the month and will both feature better performance in battlefield and GTA and both are cheaper than that $250 380 you have in the cart.

But to answer your questions. No the 860k won't be much of a bottleneck in those games. Especially if you overclock it a bit with a good cooler. That cooler in your list only does a light overclock.

Can I also make a few suggestions?
You're building budget but went with a $200 monitor? Might as well spring for freesync and 1ms response time while you're at it.

Better Cooler - trust me it's worth it

2 Sticks of 4GB Instead for Dual Channel

Wifi Pci card over usb wifi

Why not a nice Micro Atx case to match the motherboard

u/spicedpumpkins · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

I am almost certain many air coolers at this price point will outperform this AIO.

The cryorig H7 is on sale right now for $35 and I am pretty sure it will stomp this cooler any day of the week.

u/cf18 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

But we frequently get extra $10 rebate on the 212 EVO if you wait.

u/Titan285k · 5 pointsr/hardwareswap

The H7 is $35 from newegg my friend

Also $35 shipped from amazon

u/Stevonius · 5 pointsr/gaming

Yeah, I got a GTX1080 and a i7-7700K(neither of which are over-clocked at the moment), but my cooler is the relatively inexpensive CRYORIG H7( I based my build off of a freind's build (which is why I went with that particular cooler), but he got a GTX-1070 and an i5-6600K for his build, so I guess when I went for the 1080/i7-7700k upgrades I probably should have gotten a better cooler as well. This was the first time I had ever built a PC, and going with a liquid-cooling system just seemed out of my league at the moment.

u/Holmes419 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Some kind of German black magic. Pop it open and it just takes a drop...

u/dropithott7 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/foxy_mountain · 5 pointsr/Amd

I did a lot of research on Carbonaut and IC Graphite, and almost all the (professional) reviews put the IC Graphite a tad ahead of Carbonaut. But I believe this stems from mounting pressure, or lack thereof. The performance of the Carbonaut scales with mounting pressure, and my suspicion from reading reviews, is that in most cases, and with most types of cooling solutions, the average Joe like myself, won't achieve the mounting pressure needed to make the Carbonaut shine and outperform the IC Graphite.

Another thing to consider, is that, although Carbonaut has excellent thermal conductivity in the Z axis (from the IHS towards the heat sink), it doesn't have as good thermal conductivity in the two other axis as the IC Graphite does. This is because the Carbonaut has fibers, and these fibers are aligned in the Z axis specifically to make it most efficient in that axis. So it seems the IC Graphite is better at dealing with small hot-spots. If you look at images of the 3900X without the IHS, the two CCX dies are tiny in area compared to the total area of the IHS. The CCX dies are two hot-spots.

As for the customer reviews, I found that the IC Graphite not only has a lot more reviews (e.g. larger sample size), but it has much better customer reviews as well:

u/waldojim42 · 4 pointsr/Alienware

Ok, if you don't feel comfortable doing the work, then having someone else do it is best. However, it generally isn't that hard if you take your time.

I use a Craftsman small screwdriver set like that one, and have for years. Yes, there are cheaper tools. But I happen to like these.

There is a guide on how to tear into your machine, available right here.

It will take you step by step what you need to take apart. Click on the Prerequisites for section "removing heat sink assembly." It will show you what all has to be torn down to get to that part, and remove it.

Then, clean the old paste off with a lint free cloth, and decent rubbing alcohol. I avoid 70% at all costs. I prefer my 99.9% stuff, but have used 80% when in a bind. Make sure it dries completely before you continue. Pure stuff dries very quickly, less pure can take some time.

Then apply the new paste as a thin line about the length of a grain of rice. Don't smear it, try to spread it, or anything else UNLESS it is specifically designed for that (liquid metals come to mind). Then, reassemble. Be careful to ensure the heat spreader is attached evenly, with appropriate pressure.

Undervolting allows you to reduce the heat of the chip by running at voltages lower than it was designed for. Ideally, this shouldn't have to be done. Assuming a decent paste job, you won't. If you do find yourself in the position where that needs done, then use Intel XTU to adjust the voltage in small increments, and run Prime 95 in the background to monitor the results. If the machine becomes unstable, or starts throttling, you went too far.

What you need:
Screw drivers

Lint free cloth (some people use coffee filters, or even paper towels)


Paste (I use IC7 Diamond these days. Works very well on my machines. Arctic Silver 5 is still decent stuff, as is Gelid Extreme. There are others, and I am sure someone else will chime in with their favorites)

Clean, static reducing/non static working environment

u/BobTheJedi · 4 pointsr/litecoinmining

Everytime I see this type of discussion, I have to chime in because I did it, but didn't realize you need these too, cgminer doesn't like not seeing a GPU fan speed. (connect it to the 92mm fan). Not sure if sgminer works without GPU fan speed.

I did the red mod before receiving my g10 kraken with a thermaltake water extreme 2.0 240mm Rad, so these are my observations (copied from my other comments)

-If you don't want to use zip ties and don't want to buy the adapter (really hard to tension zip ties well)

--You REALLY need VRM cooling, one fan on top with no VRM heatsink is not enough, try these

-You should also consider VRAM heatsinks as well like this or like this

-get one of these to connect a fan to the GPU header, cgminer doesn't like if it can't read the fan speed, though you can use -T arguement to get cgminer to work.

My 290 at 100% load now hovers at 50-55C and is really quiet with 2 SP120 Quiet Editions :)

This post reminds me that I should dust out the rad when I get home.

u/throwdowndragout · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Instead of the 212 Evo, how about Cryorig H7? Same price range, way better.

u/Chaoriz · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/throwaway199427 · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Haven't upgraded anything other than my GPU for about 6 years now so you could say I'm a bit rusty when it comes to part picking. I'll probably go for the i5-9600k and instead of the AIO Ill probably get the Cryorig CR-H7A. Can you suggest a good OC-able motherboard that won't break the bank?

u/ltsnotluck · 4 pointsr/sffpc
  1. Before Accelero III: stock clocks on blower style cooler getting 80°+ within minutes of playing games. I could adjust fan speed to lower temps, but fan sounded like jet engine. I refused to run my GPU at these temps, so I ordered the Accelero III. After Accelero III: GPU on stock clocks never exceeds 63° and OC'd the temps never exceed 67° The fans typically run around 30% while gaming and are much quieter than the blower cooler.
  2. While my Accelero was in route, I watched some install videos and read up on it. When I received it, I took my time installing and it went quite well. I used thermal adhesive tape instead of the included thermal epoxy. It seems to be holding really well; I cleaned the surfaces using coffee filters and 91% isopropyl alcohol to ensure a clean surface for optimum adhesion. Just search youtube for install vids (Optimum Tech video here) and Artic Install Manual
  3. I used this fan adapter for my card. I needed this because my GPU only has 1 fan header and I didn't want to add another cable in the form of a splitter. The less cables you have to deal with in this case, the better. I used this thermal tape; I just used scissors to cut to size. I recommend some tweezers because the backing can be difficult to remove to expose the adhesive. I'm using two NF12 fans in exhaust configuration; they are connected directly to the GPU via previously mentioned adapter so the GPU controls the fans. I would recommend you have several different size phillips screwdrivers available; I used an ifixit screwdriver kit.
u/qlthinker · 4 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

It's also on for 57.48 $CAD + free shipping:

u/PhoenixReborn · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Unless they advertised that it was missing parts you're probably within your right to return it. If you don't want to go through that, I see some backplates and brackets on amazon.

u/falkentyne · 4 pointsr/intel

This is wrong. HIDevolution and a few other laptop ODM's do Conductonaut on their 8750H MSI laptops and get great results. 7700HQ and 8850H are also 45W TDP CPU's as well and they all benefit from conductonaut or Galinstan.

The question isn't if the CPU will benefit from it, but whether the heatsink is properly designed. You can't use conductonaut on a laptop without a perfectly flat heatsink AND a solid, firm fit. You can test for fit by getting a (free) sample of Fujifilm Ultra Low Prescale from "Sensorprod" (annoying but they will usually give you a sample, then they'll ask you to be a customer, LOL), or buy the retail repacked version from IC :

This will show you easily if you have a crappy fit or not. The problem is this stuff gets expensive.

MSI tends to use semi decent heatsinks on their laptops, so if the VRM thermal pads aren't elevating the top side of the heatsink (often this can be fixed by switching to a lower thickness pad), liquid metal can work there, but you should use some way to seal it with a barrier (15 ppi foam dams, or at least even though this isn't a dam, Kapton tape or Super 33+ tape around the CPU die.

I have no idea about Asus. It's very possible their heatsinks suck, which means unless you can mod the pressure or find out what the problem is, you need to use a thick thermal paste instead. Even a Panasonic Soft PGS+ graphite thermal pad (or this : ) would do poorly for you if the heatsink/mounting sucks.

u/br0adband · 4 pointsr/lgv20

This one seems to offer the highest thermal conductivity profile (35 w/mK) so I can't imagine it's "bad" compared to most of the others that range from about 5 to 17 and it's roughly the same price, just a touch more expensive but if it works as designed then it's worth it.

u/kheszi · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Apparently overheating is a serious problem with this model:

Replacing the thermal grease shouldn't be too difficult. You'll have to carefully remove the entire fan/heatpipe cooling assembly along with any attached cables, the two processors should be right underneath, to the immediate north and northwest of the memory slot.

While you have the assembly removed, inspect both fans carefully for any signs of dust/fur blockage, especially the ran blades and radiator fins. If you see any debris, you can carefully clean that with canned air or (very carefully) with some alcohol and a pipecleaner or toothbrush. If using air, use one finger to hold the fan blades from spinning - resist the urge to "whizz" the fan with the compressed air or you can easily ruin the fans. Optionally you can remove the fan covers with a jewelers screwdriver and clean them thoroughly.

When replacing the assembly, carefully tighten each of the mounting screws in sequence according to the numbers stamped into the cooling assembly. High quality thermal grease will run you about $7.

u/coldfusion718 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal Compound TC-GC-03-A

Buy it from Outlet PC for $12.48 shipped.

Arctic Silver is old news.

u/State_secretary · 3 pointsr/overclocking

Thanks for putting effort on the formatting. Not many people do that and it rustles my jimmies. Especially when they take pictures of their BIOS settings with their mobilephones!

Anyway, AMD APUs will need quite high voltage to hit 4.5GHz and beyond. They don't use as much power as FX-chips, so the high voltage doesn't matter that much. However, since you are using MSI board, the VRM might be the issue. MSI uses crap-tier components on their AMD platform motherboards. When you said your system was unstable even though the CPU wasn't running hot, it could indicate that the VRM has trouble feeding the voltage (possibly due to overheating). Note that your motherboard doesn't even have a heatsink on the VRM, which really makes it a non-oc board.

For reference, Hardwarecanucks used 1.584 V for 4.7 GHz.

I doubt your mobo would last with those kind of volts. Consider sticking some copper heatsinks on the VRM mosfets.

u/TheGrapist__ · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I buy a 20g tube of arctic silver mx-4, it cost like $16 and last forever

I've noticed this seller changes their price multiple times a day,from $16-20

u/weirdlooking · 3 pointsr/computing

You do not need the exact same cooler. CPUs are built for specific "sockets". The one you linked is a 1150 socket cooler. So you can use this one:

The cooler that I linked does not have pre-applied thermal paste(some do). So you would need to clean away the old paste and apply new paste such as:

Their are quite a few video guides on how to replace the cooler for your computer if want to make sure your are not applying to little or to much paste. Im not sure i would be able to link any in your native language though.

u/booga_booga_partyguy · 3 pointsr/IndianGaming

If your CPU temps are running high, then the problem might be that you need to reapply the thermal paste. I recommend using this one:

Also, are you using the stock CPU fan that came with it, or are you using a something else?

For what it's worth, CPUs are usually very robust pieces of tech, as in it takes an extraordinary amount of abuse for them to become defective. It could just be you got a rare bad one, but odds are your thermal paste has become hard and needs to be reapplied.

u/ilikefishalot · 3 pointsr/buildapc

CPU Cooler: Buy the Cyrorig H7. It's the best in it's price point at the moment, and looks amazing. You won't need a better cooler for anything unless you want to overclock, which you really don't need to do with a CPU as good as yours.

Video Card: For [email protected], I would advise the GTX 1060 or the RX 480. Both will crush 60fps at 1080p, but if you want extra future-proofing at a higher price, go for the GTX 1070. The 1060(try for 6GB), and the RX 480(try for 8GB) are excellent cards that will run any modern game well, even at 1440p. The 1070 is even better, but only really needed if you want something like Hairworks for The Witcher 3 or intensive mods for Skyrim.

RAM:Since you have a motherboard with 4 RAM slots, get another 2 4GB sticks of your current RAM and run it in quad channel, 16GB in quad channel is amazing for modern games, although your RAM's speed isn't probably high enough nowadays.

PSU:Upgrade if you want to(I'd advise it), but I won't go advising you on any because PSU's can be so inconsistent. Just try for one above 600w that gets good reviews and few failures, unless you feel OK about your current one.

u/Legorobotdude · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Speaking of being in stock, the H7 is back in stock at Amazon:

Not really a sale price but compared to the crazy low availability markup some sites were charging its not bad. Keep in mind the 2 fan version is only a couple bucks more.

u/SpocksCrocs · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/jackfg · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I went with the cryorig h7. At $35, it's one of the best value coolers (I believe it's generally the step-up from the 212 EVO). I have it sitting on my 6700k and overclocked temps cap out at like 65.

I looked at this when I was making my decision initially.

u/nerdslayer69 · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Check out the Cryorig H7

u/ErinMyLungs · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Decent machine however few bits and pieces:

Cryorig H7 is 10 bucks more but is a lot better (and much easier to install) than the 212. It'll run cooler, quieter, and generally better than the 212 for 10 bucks. Unless you're super stretched thin, I'd recommend it.

The 970 is an interesting choice but I think I'd recommend either the r9 390 if you want to buy something now (gives you 8gb of vram and great performance for $300) or if you can wait a few weeks, the rx 480 is coming out. I'd wait for benchmarks to come out but at $200 for the 4gb model and $250 for the 8gb model, it looks like a beast of a card. If you can wait, that's a great card to pickup.

u/perf3ctx · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I ordered some from amazon that had 3M thermal tape on them. Some people recommend using something with more tac(thermal glue) but the plain janes work for me. I ordered the stock raspberry pi case. Both of mine are black. Nice and small and I leave both side panels out so there is more air movement.

LoveRPi Performance Heatsinks for Raspberry Pi 3 Model B (1 Set)

Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - Black/Grey

u/SHADOWxWOLF407 · 3 pointsr/virtualreality

I just reopened it and took some internal photos hope these help Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4

also here is the amazon parts.

Amazon Heat sink

Amazon Fan

And the 3d Printing File

3d Printing Sla File

u/Kuznecoff · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

Ya I would recommend ThrottleStop because anytime your PC crashes due to undervolting issues it will reset all the values of Intel XTU.

First you want to click on the FIVR button which opens the undervolting menus. I'd start your undervolt at -80 mv on both the CPU core and cache, working your way to a larger undervolt value in 2-3 mv intervals. Find the value that will crash your computer when you run a benchmark, and then set your undervolt value to 10 above that. My computer will crash at -110 mv, and runs stable 90% of the time at -100 mv.

Next, go to the GPU. Follow the same principle as the CPU undervolts, but start at around -45 mv. Don't undervolt this with the same values, or else you will fuck with your rendering big time. I have mine currently set to -60 mv and it runs stable.

In the general settings menu next to the table with your computer statistics, you'll want to set your speed shift (determines how fast your CPU runs from a value of 1-256; lower = faster). I made two profiles on TS to accommodate the different levels of stress it can take:

  • On A/C: set speed shift to 64
  • Off A/C: set speed shift to 128, disable turbo

    Next, go to the options button below the settings you just checked. Here you can name your profiles, and check AC Profile and select your first profile. Then, check Battery Profile and select your second profile.

    Voila, now you are undervolted. This should lower your running temps by several degrees, and make your benchmarks higher.

    Another thing that helps with speed/temp/battery is repasting your CPU. Follow the instructions on the following videos. I recommend using Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, as it can achieve the lowest running temperatures.

  • Video 1
  • Video 2

    By doing all of the aforementioned, I've lowered my running temperature by around 10 degrees Celsius on average, with a typical running temperature of 39 degrees with 20+ Firefox tabs, Spotfiy, and MS Word open.
u/SuperAngryGuy · 3 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

> It won't be direct light but it seems the shape and close walls bounces the light around more efficiently

Yes, this is correct and modeling it is a lot more complicated particularly modeling diffuse white surfaces (flat white paint) versus diffuse white surfaces with glare (Panda Plastic or black/white poly film) as an example. I was trying to give a simpler answer! This is what would be used professionally for modeling:

>And are those the blue light sticks you created?

No, that is just straight up side or intracanopy lighting for photosynthesis. It's on aluminum angle that is 1/8th inch thick. I used to crack open Philips light bulbs with a remote phosphor to get to the LEDs inside and remount them. At the time it was the most economical way to get more efficient LEDs.

The prevailing theory is the "pressure flow hypothesis" that states that sugars created (sugar source) flows to the sugar sinks (new growth areas like buds) with the sugars created transported through the phloem to where the sugars are most needed in a plant.

You can only get so much yield per volume/area with top lighting before you must use intracanopy lighting and dispersing the lighting rather than just blasting from the top. But every photon not hitting the plant is a wasted photon and the basis for my critique that a lot of people need to put their lights lower.

The closet DIY would be part 4 of my lighting guide:

When mounting LEDs this is a quick and easy way:

u/fatpolomanjr · 3 pointsr/sffpc

I used the the Optimumtech video for his placement of the heatsinks, though I used double-sided thermal tape instead of the glue that comes with it. So I could put the original heatsink back on if I want to reuse or sell the gpu.

u/natsw79 · 3 pointsr/pcmods

I was able to pick up double sided thermal tape almost two years ago. It was used to apply heat sinks to my GTX 1080 Ti and it works quite well. I definitely recommend it. Plus it's fairly inexpensive and there is A LOT of it. The heat sinks stay on real well and are not permanent. To take of the heat sink it only required a minor twist and they popped off with the tape stuck on the heat sinks.

u/soren121 · 3 pointsr/sffpc

I have no opinion on the EVGA Hybrid, but I do have an EVGA 1070 SC with the Accelero Xtreme III and Noctua NF-F12 fans (which should perform similarly to Corsair's ML120's.)

I'm very happy with my setup. It runs at 31°C at idle, and around 53-54°C at load, with a max of 60°C. I set a custom fan curve with EVGA PrecisionX so that the fans run at 10% (350RPM) at idle and 15-25% (560-860RPM) at load. The card's default curve turns the fans off at idle, but my GPU isn't getting much fresh air from the side panel fan, so the GPU temp would slowly creep up over time. At 10% fan speed, the idle temp stays stable and cool, and the noise difference is imperceptible.

And for your second question...yeah, I think you could do it. I would recommend reading the instructions completely a few times before starting, just so you understand the whole process because it can seem daunting at first. Also, buy a roll of double-sided thermal tape! It will make installing the small heatsinks way easier. Arctic wants you to use epoxy to attach them, but that gives you limited time to install the heatsinks and you have to leave it overnight to cure. The tape is better because it has neither of those issues, and it's non-permanent, in case you ever need to RMA the card.

Edit: You might also be interested in this thread:

u/Speadyjooce5 · 3 pointsr/sffpc

From what I've read/saw, it seems pretty straightforward. However, people recommend using [double sided thermal tape] ( instead of the glue they provide so you can take off the cooler in the future.

u/Mavflight09 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Hey I thought I would give you some of my thoughts on deliding. In no way is this the best way, just "my way".


IMO all you need to do when deliding is to:

  1. Take the die off
  2. Clean off the thermal paste
  3. Clean off the glue residue from both the cpu and the bottom of the IHS
  4. Apply liquid metal to both the die and the underside of the IHS
  5. Put the cpu in the socket of the motherboard without the IHS on
  6. Once the cpu is situated in the socket, place the IHS on top of the cpu (yep it just sits there)
  7. Close the socket retention clamp to hold the IHS to the cpu.*

    * While closing the retention clamp the force of the clamp closing will want to slide the IHS downward so try to hold the IHS still in relation with the cpu while closing the clamp.


    - Ideally you would leave the IHS free floating, "free floating" is where you do not re-attach the IHS to the die in any way, the socket retention clamp will keep the IHS and cpu firmly clamped together. Therefore IMO re-attaching the IHS with glue can only worsen temperatures without any real benefit. Leaving the IHS free floating also makes it easier to redo the delid in case you do something wrong.

    - The reason re-attaching the IHS to the die causes worse temperatures is because the glue will increase the "z" axis height between the die and the bottom of the IHS, increasing the amount of area the heat has to travel to get from the die to the cooler.

    - In my experience and others such as Gamer's Nexus resealing the IHS to the die reduces the gain from deliding sometimes as much as 50%. Ex. Pre-delid: 80c, delid with IHS free floating: 60c, delid with IHS re-glued to die: 70c.

    - I would recommend this delid tool as it is the only tool that I have found that applies rotational pressure evenly to all sides of the IHS to take it off with a twisting motion.

    - Other delid tools such as this one are IMO overrated, and worse than the one I recommend because this one applies all of the force to one side of the IHS.

    - Also very much just my opinion, I think using conformal coating or any other items such as electrical tape to "mask" the area around the die is completely unnecessary. Even if you were to literally drown the cpu in liquid metal all you have to do is wipe it off with some isopropyl alcohol.

    - Using conformal coating also increases the chance you will get the conformal coating some where you don't want it, ie: the cpu die, which could increase temperatures to what they were before the delid, or even worse.
u/Head_Cockswain · 3 pointsr/pcmods

If you want a shroud, you could always fabricate one. 3 flat surfaces is a world of difference to painting fans. A million ways you could make a shroud and fasten it into place.

3d print as someone mentioned, cut from an existing piece of plastic or metal, re-shape from sheeting of various materials, etc etc.

One novel thing you could do is use a block of wood or a thicker plastic chunk for the top, drill holes exactly where the heat pipes come up and use those to fasten(making sure to not block any screw access holes so you'd have what looks like one access hole and a divot at the back). Hot glue or epoxy in the pipe-holes, and you don't have to worry about clips or bands or zipties to fasten it to fins(or damaging said fins).

>>Disclaimer: Fan/heatsink shrouds can mess with air-flow in counter-intuitive ways. Sometimes the engineers really do know what they were doing...

>>You can jury rig with card-stock or similar cheap materials and tape to test temps before you decide on a final design or if it's worth doing at all.

>>I've done this with case fans as well as making my own shrouds, and the temp differences can sometimes be improved, or very much decreased, depending on specifics.


Those covers are for a completely different size/shape heat-sink.


For cooler:

Thinner 140mm wide heatsinks (2x)

Your cooler:

A single fat 95mmx95mm heatsink.

At which point, you're modding the fuck out of them, may as well start from scratch in true maker fashion, from the ground up for your specific need.

Painting the top of the cooler would be easy and not affect performance much, if any, slide some sheets of paper in underneath the topmost layer(no need to paint the whole thing, imo) for over-spray, spray lightly, don't drench anything, let dry even if it's not complete, repeat as necessary. Ten "too thin" coats adds up to a better finish than 1 complete coat with runs and globs and dried in wrinkles....If you miss a spot, hit it next time, repeat. Patience is a god-send when painting. (All that provided you've completely removed the cooler, otherwise you'd need a lot more than just a sheet of paper for overspray.)

I wouldn't paint the fan blades. It can be done, but it can be done very badly and mess with balance or even airflow, not to mention if you ever touch them by accident or something, even when not running, say if you're wiping dust off or moving/removing to replace cooling paste, etc, it could flake off because fan blades are a bit flexible usually.

Fans are the one thing I wouldn't mod, unless you're talking about painting the exterior frame only or you seriously know what you're doing.

u/xJGVx · 3 pointsr/Dell

Apex on battery.

I have all Dell and Intel software enabled and up to date except for Dell Support Assist(unistalled because it was re-installing SmartByte), SmartByte, Killer Network and Rivet services are all stopped and disabled.

CPU/GPU was re-pasted with this.

Current CPU UV, your mileage may vary.

GPU OC/UV @0.700mV, 2nd lowest performance state.

GPU OC/UV Highest Performance State @0.813mV, it says @1733mhz but in reality GPU sits @1721mhz, this will greatly reduce GPU temps and since the heatsink is shared that includes the CPU as well.

Extra Sauce when playing plugged. Helps with random shutdowns and BSODs.

At all times even on battery, my own preference.

This is all on the latest BIOS, i've always updated it.

My max CPU temps hover between low 80c to mid 70's depending on game while the CPU sits @3.9GHz and GPU barely hits 72c at a room temp of ~34c. Tropical humid weather may simulate yours since you are indian?(wild guess sorry if your not and it's offensive D:).

Bonus round:

My laptop came with the AUO panel and it's OC'ed to 108hz LCD Reduced.

I barely use the Realtek's sound drivers, mainly use a wireless headset and bluetooth for speakers, to cope with the DPC latency issues.

Download HWInfo64 and keep an eye on the m.2 ssd and the PCH temp. Those can alter performance plugged or unplugged.

m.2 ssd heatsink link if needed.

This is not necessary but i had to do this, Dell's fault. MAY VOID WARRANTY.

If i can help with anything else, lemme know.


Edit: some fixes and clarity.

u/safhjkldsfajlkf · 3 pointsr/PS4


thermal paste

​ (old ps4)


for reference:

ps4 slim teardown

old ps4 teardown

It's just a bunch of screws and 2-3 connectors. Fairly easy compared to say, an xbox 360.

u/jackatrades · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I think a lot of people recommend Arctic MX-4 but personally I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and it's been working great.

u/rct0114 · 3 pointsr/Amd
u/BradGunnerSGT · 3 pointsr/sffpc

I’m done with thermal paste. I used Innovation Cooling graphite pads for my latest build and liked it so much that I bought another for my kid’s hand me down rebuild. No more sticky goo, no worry about “did I use enough”, “did I use too much”, “did I spread it around properly”, etc.

Innovation Cooling Graphite...

u/jz5678910 · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

Yes, absolutely reapply. If it didn't make a solid connection the first time you pretty much have too redo it. That sounds like that may be your issue.

Honestly I'd recommend going with one of these pads. I got one recently and I'm very impressed. I got the 40x40 option and i use it on an OC'd r7 1700 with a fractal 360 aio. It performs around the same as something like mx-4 does. No need to spread and it's reusable.

u/Halbzu · 3 pointsr/buildapc

On the first picture, I was like "yeah that's a cpu, what did he expect?" :D

It's one of these.

u/Metaldrake · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Perhaps look into the IC Graphite pads, it doesn't have the issue of drying out like conventional pastes.

u/HumanKumquat · 3 pointsr/PS4

This is the guide I used.

They don't have assembly instructions but if you reverse what you did, you'll be fine.

You'll need a Phillips #0, a TR9 security Torx, and some spudgers. I've done it before without spudgers but its a lot easier to remove the bottom case piece with them. You might also need a pair of small needle nose pliers to help pull various power connectors. Mine were on there really tight so I had to use some, but if yours are looser you can probably do it by hand.

In addition you'll need some thermal paste and some thermal pads.

I used Arctic MX4 2019 Edition but any paste from any of the big names like Grizzly, Noctua, or Arctic should work fine. If you want to really get into it, check out this chart. Pastes near the top perform better than those near the bottom, but you can see that there's only a 1-1.5 degree difference in most pastes, so choose something that's priced right for you. The MX4 was only $8 on Amazon so that's what I went with.

Since I went with Arctic paste I also decided to go with this Arctic thermal pad. I bought the 145x145mm, .5 mm thick and they fit perfectly. I just eyeballed the size and cut them with scissors, but IIRC the actual chip is 9mm by 9mm. You'll want to cut them, peel the plastic off both sides, and apply them. I peel off one side, press them onto the chip, then peel off the other with the needle end of a spudger, but I don't know if that's necessary or preferred. It just worked for me.

For removing the thermal paste you can just use 99% isopropyl alcohol. I've used dedicated paste cleaners in the past and while they work fine, the 99% ISO seems to work just as well, and it's cheap as shit. Head to your local pharmacy and they should have some for a dollar or so.


I should mention that you'll want to avoid any liquid metal pastes, as they'll corrode aluminum and the PS4 heatsink is mostly aluminum.

u/Romanion · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Well, for Cooler Master thermal paste, there's a 24month shelf life apparently according to this

u/GeorgeMKane · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Sounds like it comes in a tube, in the box. Recommend you use the one it comes with. If you don't want to use that one, this one can be a better option.

u/thejimster123 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Any 5-10 dollar thermal paste, avoid the cheap ones get one from a trusted brand and reputable one - hope you fix your problem!

u/Gallifrasian · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Whatever the 212 EVO came with. That's what I use.

Edit-Whoops, wrong thread. Just any paste should work fine. No idea what's up with Arctic Silver 5, but I use this one

u/yuri53122 · 2 pointsr/Amd

you'd need two of these, and if you'd like one of these or these (optional). Pump/reservoir/radiator recommendations are based on case compatibility. A fan controller that is compatible with water temperature sensors is recommended as well.

However, if only one card is getting that hot, have you considered taking the heatsink off and putting on better thermal compound such as Gelid GC-Extreme? I'd try that first.

u/eNiomeL · 2 pointsr/laptops
u/K_M_A_2k · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Every once in a while you see a report about what is the best paste this stuff has been winning for a while

u/SubiFriend · 2 pointsr/PS4Pro

If it's obnoxiously loud, then I'm a bit surprised to hear that you have a Nidec. Yes, it can't hurt to try replacing the thermal paste.

As has been widely recommended by other professionals on here, I went with this Gelid paste:

And I replaced the square pads on the RAM with this stuff:

For the thermal pads, I used a razor to cut it into small squares like the original pad sizes. If you do that, the single strip should be enough for 4-5 Pro units.

I'll check into tutorials and follow up again.

u/ArcoliteUK · 2 pointsr/Alienware

As above, Liquid Metal products scared me a little so I opted to use GC-Extreme.

A user on Overclockers UK tested many paste brands and GC-Extreme came a close second to Liquid Metal under load (

u/io2red · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

That's correct! Pretty much every SSD heatsink in existence is completely wrong! You gotta love how little known these things are. 🙃

The solution is to buy smaller heat sinks and then either use TIM to mount them on (ideally), or thermal tape that's typical included with heatsinks (a lot of bundled tape can be old/cheap though). AFAIK using TIM is more effective at displacing heat, but both will help.

Also make sure it's seated properly because the last thing you want is a heat sink falling on your motherboard and short circuiting things.

u/Nexdeus · 2 pointsr/watercooling

The Thermosphere options look good. That's just for the die, then you need small heatsinks for the memory modules, and the voltage stuff on the GPU.

Some like these :

But obviously the correct sizes, and with thermal adhesive/tape.

u/dunnolawl · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You are pushing your SOC VRM way too hard, you need to add a fan. Adding heatsinks to the mosfets might help (more surface area and thermal mass), but without adequate airflow to dissipate the heat you would end up with the same 100°C eventually. A combination of small heatsinks + fan would be ideal.

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/overclocking

105C might be the danger point, but that doesn't make 100C a healthy choice either. It looks like you have clearance for taller non-painted heatsinks.

u/IcanHAZaccountNAOW · 2 pointsr/Amd

Sorry foe the delayed response.

The vrm coolers that come on a motherboard normally have very little surface area, which is part of the problem. All those fins on your radiator (and on most cpu coolers) are there to increase the surface area; double the sa means double the cooling capacity.

The fan will help get the heat off while it's building up, but if there isn't enough surface area on the heat sink then airflow alone won't solve the problem.

That's why I recommended looking at aftermarket VRM coolers; they tend to be built like a real heat sink, instead of being a dull grey slab that's meant to look good.

Edit: Here, this is kind of thing you'd be looking for. You can get them in different sizes, so its worth measuring the MOSFETs (the part of the vrm that creates all the heat) before ordering anything.

u/aziridine86 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I haven't done it personally but I'm pretty sure others have if you search around.

The key thing to cool is the UBX controller chip which is approximately 20x15 mm.

A 15x15 mm pad + heatsink might be sufficient as that would cover most of it. For example you can see a 950 PRO covered by 15x15 mm copper shims in this article, one on the controller and two for the NAND packages, and the controller appears to be mostly covered.

But in that case they were using copper shims to conduct the heat into their metal case rather than into a heatsink.

I don't know what the thermal conductivity rating on this is, but something like this double-sided adhesive thermally-conductive tape might work.

As for the heatsink, maybe something like this. Ideally I would look for something in copper, like perhaps you could get four of these 10x10 mm heatsinks to fit in a square on the controller.

One thing to consider is whether you can remove the sticker cleanly without damaging it, and then find a thermal pad or tape that will be enough to keep the heatsink attached but will come off cleanly if you need to reapply the sticker in order to send the drive in for warranty. Or at the very least test out the drive to make sure it is working properly before removing the sticker.

I would look around on forums and see what you can find about other users who have done this. I know some reviewers have, or used a PCIe-card with a cooling solution like

But if you look around you can probably get some information from other users who have done this.

u/01189999119991197253 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

something like this? measure the area you need as you get bigger ones also.

you can try sticking them on with thermal pads but these tend to fall off with smaller sized heatsinks and high temps. ideally you would use heat conductive glue (like this).

note that you will still need adequate airflow (directly onto the vrm's if possible).

u/noeller218 · 2 pointsr/Amd

TL;DR at end

What helped me out a TON was undervolting. It's the exact opposite of overvolting (duh). It lowered my CPU socket temp from like 62 Celsius to 45 Celsius under load (with a gelid solutions tranquillo rev 2). It's really easy to do, go into your BIOS and lower your voltage in small-ish steps. Undervolting cannot harm your CPU, the worst that can happen is thats your PC crashes. To test if your undervolt is stable, use prime95 small FFTs. Also use hwmonitor or windows ttask manager to track CPU usage. Without undervolting you will probably see severe dips in usage% or in clockspeeds because your CPU is being throttled because your VRMs are too hot (or your CPU is too hot, but in your case its more likely to be VRMs). After undervolting quite a bit, while testing with prime95 again those dips should not be returning. However, undervolting too much can cause some instability and some cores can shut down while using prime95, so do keep an eye out for cores that stopped working using prime95 after you undervolted. You can see a core stopped working if its usage is not 100% anymore in HWmonitor or just read for errors in prime95, it should say "worker stopped" or something along those lines.

How much you can undervolt differs per chip, I was able to reach 1.125Volt stable with an FX 8320 on 3.5 GHz.

You might also want to look into buying VRM(read: MOSFET) heatsinks.

These can work

Otherwise these (bit more expensive)

Last resort is to disable 2 cores on your FX 6300 as well as undervolting, you'd get less performance but at least there's no throttling anymore.

Sorry for wall of text,

here is tl;Dr

  1. Undervolt!
  2. Buy cheap vrm heatsinks
  3. Disable 2 cores (last resort if throttling is not solved after undervolt)
u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Of the motherboards you list, the DS3P and Extreme3 would probably be the better overclockers, but the ASUS is probably a bit more reliable. Both the DS3P and Extreme3 have a sizable portion of questionable reviews on newegg which makes me hesitant to suggest them. I guess if you want to stick with the LE that works but it will slightly limit your overclcoking ability, but this could be remedied by buying MOSFET heatsinks at a later date (like these )

As far as the RAM goes, literally get the cheapest you can. CAS/mhz isn't all that important as far as performance goes. Even dual channel doesn't matter that much.

For the monitor, the ACER seems like the best choice. It uses a VA panel which is like IPS, so its got slightly better picture quality than the rest which uses a standard TN panel.

u/HowManySmall · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/Hopperkin · 2 pointsr/homelab
u/oijlklll · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The fan takes care of the VRMs. The metal plate on the PCB is probably enough to passively cool the VRAM. When I did a similar setup with my R9 290 I bought some of these for the VRAM modules.

Honestly though, I did testing both with and without the heatsinks (plus a few fell off over time), and the VRAM is completely fine without anything as well. Never saw any temps above 90.

u/Von_Satan · 2 pointsr/Amd

I ordered these copper heatsinks

Not pictured: I have a few aluminum ones on there now with Thermal Grizzly Minus 8 thermal pads, but they are too tall (14x14x8mm), they are getting replaced with the smaller copper ones on Monday.

Drilling... Yes. Yup. I did that. I barely enlarged the holes by say .2mm. Just a hair. I had a vacuum on while drilling, which I couldn't capture in the photo. I cleaned everything super well afterwards.

Idle is now 32C (GPU temp) with the card overclocked to 2160mhz, 1199mv, +90% power, and 910 MHz memory. Junction temp also idles at 32C.

Would I recommend doing this? Only if you are comfortable completely disassembling your expensive GPU, drilling out two holes on your card, and figuring everything out, including vram heatsinks.

I put a 2 fan to 1 fan adapter to my motherboard's AIO header, which is powering both of my pumps (CPU and GPU). Two pumps or fans should be ok on one header.

Attempt this at your own risk.


u/Nanorunner · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

He's talking about these that you stick on your VRM / memory / whatever you think needs cooling. You usually don't need these for overclocking your CPU unless your motherboard's implementation is especially poor, but when you modify a GPU with an AIO like the H50 you end up taking away the heatsink, so depending on how hot your VRMs and other components run and if the other parts on your board come with separate heatsinks (see Zotac 1080ti AMP! VRM heatsink), you may end up wanting to stick some of them on.

u/Spyzilla · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

The VRM’s are fine if you put heatsinks like this on them. I just watercooled my 2080 with a G12 and a H80i V2 and max out at like 50°C

u/Harb67 · 2 pointsr/hardware

I'd only recommend that if your sinks arrive with very soft thermal pad material, like that which you'll find on your main Gelid VRM sink, instead of actual thermal tape. I don't know what adhesive you have on hand but most thermal adhesive is permanent, so just be aware if you choose that route.

I ordered these sinks and this tape which is actually 3M 8815. After wasting about 30 minutes installing one sink with the 3M tape, I just went with the OEM applied stuff for the other fifteen. Several months and tons of heat later all 16 sinks are stuck so well they may as well be considered structural. Surface prep and application technique are where the battle is won or lost.

u/BigBeard86 · 2 pointsr/nvidia

ok...the install was a bit complicated due to the fact that these cards have vrms on 2 sides of the board. the vrm that are near the IO end of the pcb are very close to some resistors, making it very difficult to find heatsinks that can fit in the narrow gap.


for the vram and the majority of the vrm, I used this:


for the vrm in the narrow lane, I was able to use this old aluminum heatsink I had for my AMD 290 when I had the kraken on that. I do not know if they make it anymore, but it was a perfect fit. the plate of the long aluminum sink was skinny enough to fit on top the vrm without being blocked by the nearby resistors.


I used an old thermal pad (fujipoly...which seems a lot more sticker than phobia, which was very oily, but maybe because the phobia was new and that I think of it maybe the phobia would've worked well too if I heated it and evaporated the oils) on the bottom of that aluminum heatsink and then used seksui thermal tape to attach it to the card, and secure it even more with zipties (though this was an extreme precaution).


I also used seksui thermal tape on the copper heatsinks as well, even though the heatsinks come with an adhesive. In the past, no tape was strong enough to hold the weight of the heatsink, except for the seksui tape, which has very strong adhesive and great thermal properties.


This is the aluminum heatsink (I just used the long piece):


This entire problem existed because it was not possible to mount the g12 bracket and retain the pcb plate which would've acted as a heatsink for the vrm near the IO end of the card. Later I realized I could've used my old g10 bracket and just gotten longer screws, and retain the pcb plate.


You can also avoid this issue by going to a local electronics store, or measuring the gap (once you have your card), and find a narrow heatsink that fits. I used my aluminum one because I had it stored away, on hand.


I also ended up buying a pci fan bracket, to cool the vrm on the far left of the card (near IO board, where aluminum heatsink is.


Here is a close up photo of where the aluminum heatsink is. you can also see the low profile ram heatsinks perfectly clear the water block.


Here is a summary picture of everything I just said:


u/sircod · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

The way that panel comes off it would be easy to replace it with a better heatsink. I'll bet one of these would do much better.

u/Anergos · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Snap a couple of fans in the front and you'll be perfectly fine.


As far as the solutions for the 1080ti, apart from morpheusII, if you want actual product:

NZXT G12 mounting kit

and whichever supported AIO cooler (check this list).

You will need to do some research first for both morpheusII and AIO GPU mounted though. Maybe you need some VRM/VRAM heatsinks as well or something else.

u/pitline810 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

You can find a video on youtube or just follow the instructions. It's pretty simple. Just remember that you need to remove the backplate and RAM heatsink (the black fins on the right of this image) in addition to the rest of the cooler. You can use these instead

u/noiserr · 2 pointsr/Amd

One of these small copper ones:

I was just going to use some thermal adhesive and put it on the VRAM VRM, since it's the only thing that gets warm.. everything else runs fairly cool and doesn't need any heatskinks..

You can live without it really.. but if you plan on OCing VRAM then I think it's a good idea.

u/greenish2 · 2 pointsr/wyzecam

heatsink installed this will require some modifications to the speaker assembly to accommodate such a bulky heatsink.

here is the heatsink I used

For those interested, the v2 cam uses the popular Ingenic T20 SOC

I'm going to see if the microphone quality is improved when it is removed from the case. If it is, then I will proceed with slightly enlarging and beveling the hole in the case for the microphone to facilitate more sound waves hitting the microphone. I am also curious if my unit was thermal throttling the CPU resulting in latency with the audio recording.

More edit: further testing is necessary, but I seem to have dropped temps by over 20 degrees Fahrenheit by installing a heatsink.

for now I ended up removing the internal speaker panel to make room for my heatsink. This is what I removed. After I did that it shut just fine.

Edit: more mods. I hate the low quality audio. Drilling out the mic hole in the case provided a very marginal improvement. It allows more sounds to enter the mic. I also had to flip the rubber seal upside down to put the bigger hole (it was meant for a component that isn't installed in v2) on the mic side.

u/AGentlemanWalrus · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

ALRIGHT! Sorry for just getting back to you I've been trying to reply and mobile and kept accidentally deleting what i typed while trying to format my response. So had to move to the Laptop.

Anyways when I say you should repaste I'm referring to the action of removing the heatsink from the CPU and GPU clearing the provided "thermal paste/grease" (thermal paste or grease depending to who you talk to is a thermally conductive paste that is meant to be between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink to fill the airgap and conduct heat to the sink better.) from both and applying new paste. Here is also a video guide on how to apply thermal paste it doesn't pertain specifically to your laptop but gives you a good idea on how its done.

Now when it comes to your device I took the liberty of looking up the service manual and found a video guide on how to disassemble down the the motherboard here. If you've never done anything like this before it can be a little daunting, but if you have a friend with some experience it shouldn't be more than a few hours project and the outcome should be considerably better than before.

If you are going to go this route there are a few thermal pastes that everyone recommends and everyone has their own opinions but as I stated before any of these will be better than what you originally had so buy whatever fits your budget.

Artic Silver 5


Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

Prolimatech PK-3

There are plenty of others but any of these will do you good, with a major recommendation to the Silver 5 due to bang for the buck.

After all that and you decide that maybe you don't want to do a repaste (and even if you did repaste I'm still recommending this) you are going to want to get a laptop cooling pad. The reason is due to the nature of laptops and how compact they are sometimes depending on the surface they are laid on they do not get enough air to cool properly, dropping your performance into the shitter. I have a similarly spec'd laptop to yours (Lenovo Y50 4700hq and 860m) and I use the Notepal XSlim its not the best but it does the job and for $18 I can't complain. There are others but buy what feels right to you.

Sorry for the long winded post I hope this helps you some, and I hope you can get your laptop performance back as you have a more than capable laptop. Let me know if you need anything else!

u/idunowat23 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

I've put together two mini ITC builds. One with a cpu upgrade and one that just reuses your current cpu.

1) $525: i5-9600K upgrade

u/zouxlol · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Arctic Silver 5

If you have a local tech shop they'll have some in stock

u/LanZx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can get some for 7 bucks in Amazon. Link

Also you'll need some 90% Isopropyl to clean of the existing paste

Here's a video on reapplying the paste

u/friendly_jerk · 2 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

When you installed the Kraken, did you use the factory thermal paste? If so, I recommend removing it and using something like Arctic Silver.

u/chickenwafflez · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've always had good results with Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste. Use the highest % of isopropyl alcohol you can get at your local drug store and a soft cloth/paper towel to remove the old paste. Don't use too much when applying the new paste.

u/Knight_of_autumn · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Wow, according to the claimed data the Grizzly is 4x more thermally conductive than the Diamond!

But then Arctic Silver claims numbers almost 30,000 times that. WHAT?!

u/cleesus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Let me first say im not an expert in Air coolers for cpus, I have always used All in one(AIO) water coolers. AIO are definitely more expensive, but easier to install, have better cooling ability, but can be louder than Air coolers.

Air coolers tend to have better price/performance and are cheaper but tend to be harder to install.

These two below are two of the most popular due to price/performance so they are worth looking at on the AUS side of things to.

This article also has some good info on both types and good suggestions at different price points,4181.html

The only other thing would be to try and get a EVGA G series psu or a Seasonic G series(What i have, caught it on sale tho). If you cant find one of them Corsair makes some cool ones too. You want to get a Bronze 80 rated PSU at the very least. They are one of the most important parts of the pc and one going bad can cause damage or a lot of instability once your gpu/cpu starts kicking in.

Im not familar with the cases you choose but its important to look at the manufacturers website of the case to see how much clearance each case provides for air coolers since they can be big as hell.

That all being said I think the UMART build is the best out of the three with the PC CASE GEAR coming in second.

The UMART is only $100 AUS more than the others according to the image but with that build you get better performance with the ability to overclock later down the line if you need more power eventually.
Plus you get slightly faster ram so overall it looks better.

Remember that you can upgrade to a better case, GPU or cpu fan etc down the line if you outgrow your current selection but the CPU/PSU, and Motherboard will be fine for a lot of years so its worth spending a little more on them now.

Also sheesh man those AUS prices are no joke, that 470 would only be around $160-180 in the states

u/jonbaa · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I haven't looked at the website you linked, but just right off the top :

  1. You can definitely go for a cheaper CPU cooler. For example, the Cryorig H7 is plenty good for a lower price (assuming you can get that where you're located). The Hyper 212 EVO is also a very popular budget option.

  2. You don't need 3200 RAM. RAM speed will typically be one of the last things to affect your computer's performance (in terms of bottlenecking). The usual advice is to go with the cheapest set of RAM that matches what you want in number of RAM sticks, amount of memory, and aesthetics.

  3. You'll hear this often, but you should definitely look into getting an SSD for your OS and main programs/games. It's the #1 contributor to making your computer FEEL fast. Load times in games will be much, much quicker, you'll boot your PC up in seconds, and moving around files/copying/installing/etc will be much faster as well.

    Basically, I'm recommending you save money by getting a cheaper CPU cooler and cheaper RAM, then putting that towards getting a solid SSD. I'd recommend ~250GB minimum, but 500GB SSDs on sale often offer more storage per dollar and would therefore be a better value. Plus you'll be sad if you run out of space on your SSD for your most often used programs/games.

    Good luck!
u/BlinkPlays · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/hyperclock255 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Cant see why it cant run crossfire. So it should be ok. But if it were me, I would probably went for a single card configuration since not many games has SLI/crossfire

Off topic,

For extra $5, u can get Cryorig H7 for a much better cooling

u/TheFirstRecordKeeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Can't tell you why it says preorder I bought mine from amazon and it's been out since last year but yea amazon has it for 35 which is what I paid for it. To give some context on its efficiency my cpu at idle sits at 25-30c which is amazing. When under a heavy load like watching a stream and playing a triple A title game at max settings I haven't seen it get past 60c which is super amazing.

If you do have the money now I would pull the trigger on this build its very solid. If you only have enough to get a few parts now and the rest in a couple weeks immediately get the 1070 because that will be the first thing out of all those parts to go out of stock. I've been watching the 1070/1080 stock get demolished as soon as a store has some.

u/GaiaNyx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

5820k is still a good CPU no doubt, but it's a couple generation old now. For around the same money, you can get 8700k if you can find one. Even if that's not available, you can also go 7800x, as that's the most recent in the similar lineup. 8700k is the best choise right now though.

Maybe you have the motherboard and the CPU, in which case, just stick with those two and you'll be fine.

And don't aim for 30+ fps at any resolution. I highly suggest aiming for at least 80~100+ fps with that kind of budget. GTX 1080 will do its job just fine.

GPUs have their own VRAM, and GTX 1080 has 8GB on its own. Your 16 GB ram choise is fine, and that's independent of what GPU you go for.

And lastly, get a differernt CPU cooler. I see that Hyper 212 EVO recommended to everyone and their brothers and sisters, but there are better coolers for the same money. I actually hate people going for that one with a budget closing in on $2000. Get a better one. Your budget is not a 600~800 range which would make me understand for that cooler.

Get something at least like this thing for i7 CPUs that can overclock. Better thermals, better acoustics, and better looks. Or you can also choose this if you still want to cheap out on cooling.

u/Neovitami · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Overclocking might postpone the need for an upgrade by a couple of years if not more depending on your demands.

Get this cooler:

Worst case scenario if overclocking your CPU isnt enough, you will also be able to use this cooler for every other new CPU you might buy.

u/CrazyCanadianXXIV · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Forget a new fan; you should get an entirely new cooler. The Cryorig H7 gets my vote if you're on a budget. Same price range as the 212, but about twice the surface area for heat dissipation.

u/rejectaderp · 2 pointsr/Destiny

Some other things to note:
For builds $1050 and up, you recommend an EVGA NEX 650W PSU. While this PSU won't fry your build or burn down your house, it has poor ripple control as shown in this [review] ( I would recommend a gen 2 EVGA PSU (G2/GS/etc), or potentially a different brand PSU (Corsair RMx series or Seasonic's G series).

In option 1 of your $1650 build, you recommend a [Cryorig C7 Cooler.] ( This is a low profile cooler meant for small form factor builds, so I'm assuming you mixed it up with the Cryorig H7 cooler, designed for more standard towers. While the H7 gets the job done, you might as well invest in a beefier air cooler or switch over to liquid cooling at that price point.

u/felixenfeu · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The prices on PCpartpicker are kinda fucked up for me, but the H7 can be found around 35 USD (Newegg, Amazon, etc.). It's similar performance as Noctua, for a fraction of the price (More than half the price).

u/polypeptide147 · 2 pointsr/Hacking_Tutorials

I second the MacBook recommendation. I am on one now, and it is perfect. I think the best part is that it already comes with Unix installed so you can play around with stuff that you want right from the start. If you build a pc and put linux on it, then you're good anyways. Windows is a no-go.

If you want to build a computer, (its a good idea, you might learn quite a bit) I'll help you out.
Since you seem to not know much about computers, I must fill you in. This is not a good time to do it. Ram shortages combined with super high GPU prices due to mining, and you have yourself a costly computer.

That being said, here you go. A couple things about it:

  1. That processor is overkill for probably anything you would be doing. You could be saving a good bit of money by using another one. But since that is what you requested, I'll throw it in. The plus is that you probably won't have to upgrade it for a while.

  2. You don't 'need' a gpu, but the 1050ti is pretty inexpensive, and if you decide to play some games it will be able to handle them.

  3. 16GB of ram is plenty. 32GB is overkill. I only have 16 and I can have multiple VMs at a time, and its fine. And if you want to upgrade later, you can do it pretty easily.

  4. I gave you a M.2 SSD. They are much faster than a regular sata and WAY faster than a hdd. Do you need it? Not at all. But especially for a beginner, it will be easier not having to route more cables. I have multiple sata ssds and multiple hdds, and cable management is a pain. The total comes to like $1280 but if that is too much get a 256GB ssd instead of a 500GB one. You can always add more storage later. It is very common for people to have a M.2 for booting and then all of their applications on a sata ssd or a hdd.

  5. I gave you a case with places to put hdds if you want them.

  6. The power supply (psu) should be plenty. I gave you 650w but you really only need 400w. I have that same psu and I have two GPUs and I'm fine. I know you'll want to get some crazy 1000w one but you don't need it.

  7. The motherboard isn't the lowest level mobo, but it isn't the best. It should allow you to overclock pretty well if you care to (you won't now, but you will, and it will be a pain if you have to upgrade your mobo in a few months). It has onboard wifi, so you don't have to worry about that.

  8. You don't need water cooling. At all. That processor is hot, but you won't be doing enough for it to be stressed anyways. That being said, I would go for a cryorig h7 instead. Easy to install, comes with thermal paste, and works very well for the price. I'm not at my computer now, but I have that cryorig cooler and I have my processor overclocked and it has no problem.

  9. Take this all with a grain of salt. Do your own research. You should be doing plenty of research about anything you hear on the internet always, especially if it is regarding you spending money.

    Regardless of if you get a laptop or you build your own, enjoy your computer. Seems daunting to build one at first, but it is really easy. Like Legos. I was terrified at first, but I've done it so many times now that I don't even have to think about it.
u/AlicSkywalker · 2 pointsr/bapccanada

For the fan, something like this: will do. Remember that liquid cooler has two parts that make sound: pump and fan. Also they are more likely to break than air coolers

>HardOCP did review both the H7 and H60.



> It seems like the H60 wins out a little at max temperatures, but otherwise the H7 is as cool and they're equally noisy.

u/wax2142 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

From the same place you buy your computer hardware of course. Anyways, you'll want a cooler that supports LGA 1151, which most do these days anyways.

Then you get to decide it you want an air cooler or a radiator cooler. here are a few for you to look at for reference:


u/Luisdlr · 2 pointsr/buildapc

We have the same build with a few differences. I'm going with the Inwin 101 ATX Case (Black). Z370P motherboard and a Cryorig Cooler.

Would you recommend your motherboard and cooler? Or does it make no difference which I choose?

u/ironfixxxer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Thermaltake Contac Silent 12

Cryorig H7

Those would work and direct the air out of the back instead of up. You can fit up to a 160mm cooler in your case. Both of those are shorter than that.

u/digisax · 2 pointsr/buildapc

An 8600k is a great choice and it'd save you $110 so you could upgrade to a 1070ti (link) or 1080 (link) to get better gaming performance.

The k chips don't come with stock coolers anymore, and the stock coolers wouldn't be adequate anyway. Since you don't plan to OC, a Cryorig H7 (link) would fit the bill too keep it cool and quiet while still fitting in the same budget.

u/Adjective_Pants · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yeah mine is OC'd using a default overclocking profile from my motherboard. Here is the cooler I've been using.

u/wallyTHEgecko · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is basically the standard for air cooling, and cost $30. It'd be perfect for running at stock clock speeds and it should offer enough headroom for very mild overclocks.

The Cryorig H7 is extremely similar. I think I remember seeing a review that mentioned a better fin pattern or something like that so it's supposed to be marginally better than the 212. And the white fan looks pretty cool. I know that this one may or may not require an AM4 adapter kit depending whether or not it comes with the revised backplate. But you can just request that from Cryorig and they'll send on to you.

u/SweetButtsHellaBab · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It's a little more expensive but the Cryorig H7 is a good cooler and only 145mm tall:

u/MrHavx · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

actually, i found a cpu cooler better than the hyper 212 evo and is smaller and slightly cheaper. The Cryorig H7 is only 145mm in height, so it fits in smaller cases, looks way nicer, and performs better, ive had both of them. This cpu cooler runs at 20c idle and playing gta 5/bf4/ csgo only reaches 45c, which is REALLY good. Check it out.

u/Attainted · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yep! One extra thing though, even if you don't overclock it I'd suggest getting a new CPU cooler unless you already have an aftermarket one. The Cryorig H7 seems to be the best recommendation right now.

u/kronkifer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

... I can't remember what changed but it still looks good :)

The H7 is $35 on Amazon.

u/ChrisDaBOSS7 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Also the hyper Eco 212 or something like that are both pretty good, I think the hyper can be sort of large though but would just do a google search of air coolers and see what works with your case

u/LeapofFaith2016 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

There's this - - "Ready to dispatch in 54 days"!!!

Also a couple of European sellers on Amazon (UK) - - but expensive.

Or just go with the tried and tested Hyper 212 EVO!

u/liamc99 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I always liked this CPU fan and it looks alright. ofcourse you can always go the RGB route but you gotta pay the RGB tax.

u/IOnceLurketNowIPost · 2 pointsr/octoprint

Not sure what your issue could be, but this log entry is interesting:

2018-09-06 10:51:40,400 - octoprint.plugins.opitemp - ERROR - OpiTemp: can't determine the temperature, are you sure you're using Armbian?

The thing that REALLY confuses me is that you are having trouble when not connected to the printer. I could imagine some ways that you would have failures during a print that are related to serial communication issues, but nothing obvious should cause these kind of random lockups. I've been using this build since the day it was released and have never had a lockup, so something else must be going on.

That leads me to one of the following possible issues:

  1. Your power supply or cable is not performing adequately. I heard a rumor that suggests an undervoltage warning will soon be added to Octoprint. This would help debug, but we'll have to wait for that (if the rumor is true). Since the release of the pi 3 models this problem has become somewhat more common (at least from my anecdotal experience) due to their power requirements. The only way to verify 100% that your psu and cable are working properly is to use a power meter, unless someone else knows a way to figure this out (anybody?). However, one halfway reasonable test that I've used on USB cables before I got a meter was to use it to rapid charge my phone. If the cable can't rapid charge, no way it can power a pi. When I got my usb power meter I discovered that over half of my usb cables couldn't supply the required current, and none of these cables could rapid charge my phone. It's a bit more difficult to test the PSU.
  2. Your pi is overheating, throttling due to the high temps, then eventually shutting down or locking up. Do you have adequate ventilation and/or heatsinks (there are 2 you should add)? Here is an amazon link to a cheap and suitable heatsink, but there are MANY other places they can be acquired
  3. Even though you've tried multiple SD cards, perhaps none of them are actually compatible. I don't have a lot of guidance here since I've never had this issue (I use samsung evo mem and either leave my pi running or shut it down properly, btw), but I have heard of these issues over and over.
  4. The last thing I would recommend is to downgrade Octoprint to 1.3.8 to see if things get better. Definitely check items 1-3 first. If performance improves or your problems vanish, it will be time to open a ticket on the OctoPrint github issues page here

    Good luck! I hope you get things back up and running soon!

    Edit: Fixed link markup in one spot, added link markup where I didn't earlier.
u/theWinterDojer · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

Just wanted to give my thoughts on the case:

I like it better than the previous case I had (Smraza), but mainly for its aesthetics. The fan is a little louder than the Smraza, which was completely silent and had more ventilation slots, but both function the same as far as cooling. I can audibly hear the fan moving but it's not distracting once game audio kicks in, apparently it was even louder before it was recalled in February. Also, be careful of which heat sinks you use with this case. The fan gets pretty low to the board and my LoveRPi heat sinks did not fit. I had to instead go with the Mudder's, which again seem to function just as well. I have not overclocked with them yet but playing Gran Turismo 2 on PSX stays below 50 degrees C. Most importantly for me, the case is sexy, I love the wood and etched looked. I definitely recommend cleaning the plastic with some alcohol beforehand because it will arrive a little cloudy but clears up quite nicely. All in all it's a good looking case and will keep it cool, the Smraza may have a little more ventilation for better cooling, but this case is sturdier, feels like it can survive a drop, and looks much better.

u/LoveRPi · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

B+ heatsinks are different size than 2 B and 3 B.
Of course we recommend ours:
We will have an active cooling case on the market in a week or two and heatsinks will be included with it.

u/CherryBlossomStorm · 2 pointsr/buildapc

you might drop 2-3 degrees.

Feeling brave? wanna drop 20 degrees? Try Conductonaut liquid metal on your GPU! It's Steve-approved!

To confirm: you already replaced the thermal past on your GPU once with paste from your hyper-212, correct?

and 70-80 is not abnormal and shouldn't be throttling.

u/Meatballwarrior · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/tamarockstar · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Which games are you playing competitively? Also you're going to want the fastest RAM you can get. I replaced the motherboard and RAM and took out a 1080 Ti from /u/MrTechSavvy build.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $328.79 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Deepcool - CAPTAIN 240EX WHITE 153.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $80.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-Z270X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $198.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $189.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 1.1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $268.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AORUS Xtreme Edition 11G Video Card | $749.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Phanteks - Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case | $174.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $117.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2120.61
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $2110.61
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-10 20:07 EDT-0400 |

This RAM is Samsung B-die. XMP profile will do 3600 CAS 16. You could probably overclock it even further. Those high frame rates are going to heavily depend on CPU and RAM frequency. If the games are CS:GO and Overwatch, a 1070 would probably perform the same as the 1080 Ti. The CPU and RAM speed is going to be the bottleneck. Good luck.

Edit: Since you'll want the best overclock for the CPU, you would want to delid the CPU if you are comfortable with that. Here's a couple things you'd need to delid.

Rockit 88 delid tool

Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut

Arctic MX-4

Delid guide - youtube

u/badaladala · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I agree with /u/mockingbird. I have a 3770k at stock settings with a GTX970. I rarely see anything above 30% cpu usage.
My upgrade path is a CryoRig H7, a delid tool with some conductonaut for better thermals because right now, CPU temperatures are keeping my clock speed low

u/Search11 · 2 pointsr/intel

Valid concerns but trust me it’s a breeze to do. Given how hot your CPU gets you will benefit from a proper delid. Granted though you are still within safe temps. The temps are highish but they aren’t abnormal compared to most others. Higher temps do lessen the life of the CPU but we are talking a very small time span compared to the market life of the chip. I’d say you and 99% of all PC builders will have build a second or even third computer before silicone degradation even reaches minimal levels. If that makes sense. Yeah high temps kill it but it’s like saying the three cigarettes you smoked in high school took two minutes off your life when you live to be a hundred anyway. Analogy might be to the extreme but I wouldn’t worry about it.

With that said here’s some links that will help you.

Delid tool and re attachment tool:

Plastic razor blades to remove stock glue (what you mentioned not knowing what to do with, yes remove it the easiest way I’ve done it was using these and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol):

Silicone “glue” for IHS re attachment. To be honest the very first delid I did was a 3570k using wood a vice and a hammer and I didn’t reglue it. It’s still alive too. I would personally just use a very small amount on the four corners. Just enough to stick. You are correct in your concern about the stock glue causing the IHS to not make perfect contact with the die. Remove the stock crap and use minimal amount of this and it will be a non concern:

Lastly, your liquid metal for the die to IHS and your TIM for the IHS to Kraken. You can use any but it’s probably safe to say Grizzly is currently the go to stuff:

All in all it’s easy and it’s worth it. If you have any questions whatsoever message me or reply here. There are some good videos of walkthroughs (I think one really good one is on rockitcool’s website but I’m not sure). I can find them for you but tomorrow as I’m currently in bed and using a half open eye lid to write this.

u/tapao · 2 pointsr/gpumining

I have an old 770 in my GF NZXT manta case.

Card would regularly hit 78-80c while gaming. (Case has dead spot under the card where air cant flow. meh design on that part.)

I used Conductonaut. Card doesnt go above 65 now. BIG change.

u/paulgali · 2 pointsr/DubaiGaming

> thermal paste replacement

Shouldn't be necessary. Some pastes have a break in period only which afterwards they perform optimally. But saying that, its good. Do what I did, put Conductonaut on there ;)

I'm joking, dont. Ask them what brand they use, then I'll judge them

u/Els236 · 2 pointsr/buildapc


So, apparently the Conductonaut I bought was only 1g for £7.49

So yeah... 10G of that would be £74.99 apparently (which is almost $100). I was under the impression my little syringe was 5g, not 1g.

u/demonguard · 2 pointsr/sffpc

I would just pick up some tape with prime shipping or something. It raises the heat sinks up a little off the PCB and keeps them naturally flatter than adhesive might so you gain a little safety there. The accelero also includes some little masking strips to protect PCB components from shorting (which I did not use because I missed them) so you might make use of those.

u/DemonBoyJr · 2 pointsr/sffpc

I personally used Thermal Tape, just in case I decide to RMA/sell the card, I can put the original EVGA heatsink back on it.

is what I used, there was even a review of someone else using it on the Accelero Xtreme 3. Seemed solid when putting them on.

u/exodus1028 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

> On another note, you delidded a new CPU?! You're a mad man! But that 5.0 Overclock is impressive . Like damn.

The reasoning behind that is simple.
There is no point in buying unlocked CPUs if you dont want to OC.
The 8700 is great for OCing, but out of the box you cant maximize it. Intel back then used extremely cheap thermal paste for the heatspreader of the chip.
By delidding and applying a liquid conductor you can shave off up towards 20C, no kidding.
The main issue when overclocking that high is the cooling. Intel rightfully got a ton of critizism for that and their newer generation they again soldered them properly.

It is a risk, yes. But if you are confident to be somewhat dexterous and trust your hands its really easy. And as I said, there are tools out there that make that process really really easy. :)

u/SNLCOG4LIFE · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Yeh I bought the two black ones separate and I also got some Noctua chroma covers to complete the look.

I used one of the two beige/brown fans on the bottom of the case blowing air up. The other one is in a box as a spare.

u/MogRules · 2 pointsr/Alienware

Yep, I just installed the same drive in mine a few days ago, works great as my game drive :) . mY os DRIVE IS A 512GB NVMe and then the WD is my primary game drive. Spinning HDD is extra game storage / personal files.

Not that it needs it, but one of these will also shave about 5-10c off of the temps as well.

u/RockyMang · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Eh most thermal pastes are about the same within ya few degrees. Here's one on Amazon I personally used before
ARCTIC MX-4 - Thermal Compound Paste For Coolers | Heat Sink Paste | Composed of Carbon Micro-particles | Easy to Apply | High Durability - 4 Grams

u/campos3452 · 2 pointsr/PS4Pro

Nope, this one Innovation Cooling Graphite...

Although those you got are recommended, but I got these SIXQJZML 30Pcs 20x20x1mm Soft...

And used a pea size of this ( in the middle) to hold the Graphite in place. ARCTIC MX-4 - Thermal Compound...

The Graphite though you must cut to size as well as the conductivity pads to replace the old ones if needed. A Sharp blade/scissors helps. Good luck! Works wonders.

u/LittleBerry1230 · 2 pointsr/Alienware

I disable the speedstep tech in bios and got a much better temp, but the clockspeed got locked at 2.89GHz for the cpu. I bought ARCTIC MX-4 and Noctua NT-H1, just really hoping this is worth it since i don't want to break any of those pins or rip those cables.

u/DieselComputer · 2 pointsr/techsupport
u/Ukeee · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The AM4 backplate is what you need. They usually come with the motherboard

u/DontTakeMyNoise · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Different deal. OP is talking about a thin sheet of graphite, which can cool about as well as high end thermal paste.

u/poorgeek333 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Cooler Master manufactures the Wraith cooler and the thermal paste that's pre-applied. MX-4 might be a slight bit better than the 6.5Wm/K provided by the CM stuff since MX-4 is 9.0Wm/K thermal conductivity. Not going to be much of a difference though.

I personally prefer the graphite re-usable thermal pads for stock coolers that I plan to work on more than once a year. I'm extra careful with their installation (electrically conductive, can't touch any PCB or components) and they have a conductivity of 35Wm/K, and don't ever decrease in performance or have dry out issues.

u/jedidude75 · 2 pointsr/Amd

Personally, I have some graphite thermal pads coming tomorrow. My thinking was that they should cover the entire IHS completely and help spread the heat away from the one hotspot under the core. I'm currently using IC Diamond, but the stuff was pretty old, and was pretty hard to get onto the CPU, since it kept just sticking to the end of the tube. I got a maximum of 75C on my 3700x with an H105, so I'm hoping that pad helps.

u/Xertez · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I used this on my older CPU that I put to use as servers : I didn't feel like pasting my CPU so i just went with a pad.


So far, slightly higher temps (about 1 degree) Which isn't worrying as the temps are really low to begin with. I'd recommend these pads to anyone at this point, especially since you can cut them to size.

u/dvsman · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I had the same problem when I swapped in my 3900x a few weeks ago. My old 2700x's pins got dinged up pretty bad.

I was using a high quality TIM (Noctua) but apparently over time it just melted/glued itself to the cpu and cpu cooler and didn't want to let go.

With that lesson learned - I have since switched to using these graphite thermal pads instead of the pastes / liquids. They are not as performance capable as the best TIM but I don't overclock and just want maximum stability, so the sacrifice of O/C headroom is no big deal to me.

From Amazon "Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative to Thermal Paste/Grease (40 X 40mm)"

u/TwitchIDIOTSbanned · 2 pointsr/Amd

Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad - Alternative to Thermal Paste/Grease (30 X 30mm)

u/chx_ · 2 pointsr/UsbCHardware

2242 to combo it's 84mm x 25mm x 8mm.

Google 32965693821 for cheap price. 120 GB. The whole thing will be <40 USD for a 120GB combo stick and be SATA SSD speed. 256GB version here.

For the best experience, invest in as well. I believe it will fit and transfer the heat to the body. I haven't yet tested this myself but I intend to.

u/Raw1213 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes artic is fine. I mostly use noctua or ic diamond for the little bit better cooling.

An easier and longer lasting method is using graphite pads like this one which is easier to use, it is reusable, and still has good performance.

u/BeastKingGod · 2 pointsr/Alienware

Here is a great forum on disassembly and repasting. Do what you feel most comfortable with.

This is the video I personally used for repasting, he uses Liquid Metal. I DID NOT

This is the method I chose to go with using above video.
I used IC Graphite Thermal Pads along with copper shims in a stacked formation. !!!Side note!!! I did use the slightest of thermal paste to stop the graphite pad from sliding around on the CPU/GPU. Like a smudge of a smudge. Then I under volted CPU by 110. I personally have not had a heating issue since, but this all just a suggestion.

This is what I used

Copper shim

This is what most people suggest**

Hope some of this helps

u/intxitxu · 2 pointsr/lgv20

Hands down the thermal paste transfer way better the heat. But is messy for an smartphone. And now we have graphite thermal pad with better heat dissipation.


The MX-4 is good stuff, but imagine you have to send your phone for guarantee or whatever, and the tech store goes like: OMG, look at this :) Warranty voided!!!

u/rajlego · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

I’ll have to check again it seemed to be working and I didn’t have any issues with it getting super loud except for when it was getting hotter to the point of throttling. Though maybe it’s just not dissipating heat well enough.

On a side note, this is the graphite pad I used:

Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative To Thermal Paste/Grease (30 X 30mm)
Usually I’m not a fan of thermal pads but this one is supposed to perform almost as well as normal high end thermal paste from what I’ve read.

u/BitCloud25 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Try this? I heard it's good stuff from Linus, and reusable.

u/Morkai_AlMandragon · 2 pointsr/PS4
u/ParaXosM · 2 pointsr/ps3homebrew

Here is what I bought, youll need 2 of them. Then just wipe off the old paste and just drop these bad boys in its place. I need this in.. The beginning of august and here we are almost 90 days into it and I swear by them!

u/pokethat · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

On Amazon.

Linus did a review on them. It's what made me buy mine. Keeps my Ryzen 2700x really happy along with my aio cooler.
Here is the LTT review

u/cgarray17 · 2 pointsr/sffpc

So the GPU is overclocked with stock fan curve, I have one EK Vardar fan at 700rpm under the GPU and under full GPU load my max temp has been 71c with a room temp of 22c.

On the CPU side I am using the wraith spire and currently CPU is stock speed as it runs at 3.8gh all core under gaming and it maxes out at 60c, I'm using the new graphite thermal pad instead of thermal past and am loving it and it can be reused over and over again. This is the link if your interested, I got the 30x30 but the 40x40 will fit ryzen better but it probably does not make a difference.

Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative to Thermal Paste/Grease (30 X 30mm)

With the stock wraith stealth I was getting about 72c and under on gaming loads. And keep in mind ryzen loves memory speed almost more then pure CPU overclock. I pushed my corsair c16 3200mh ram to 3466 with no issues at all and picked up more performance then a 4gh all core overclock and less heat.

u/DesertPunked · 2 pointsr/MSILaptops

Have you considered graphite pads?

Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative To Thermal Paste/Grease (30 X 30 mm)

And the LTT video where I discovered it.

u/TitanIsBack · 2 pointsr/PS4

Did you consider this instead of thermal paste? From my experience, it's better than thermal paste.

u/inthebrilliantblue · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is where I got some

IC Graphite Thermal Pad (30 X30 mm)

u/CalipBer · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

It doesn't matter, in PSREF all 20BW boards are with vPro and 20BX only some of them are, but this is a security feature used by some business companies.Mine was i5 20BX and now I have i7 and everything works fine. If you choose to swab board don't forget to buy some Thermal compound for repasting CPU. I did a test and I bought Innovation Cooling LLC IC Graphite Thermal Pad, very easy to use and it's working great.

u/MoistBall · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A lot of great suggestions on here. In my opinion, hard drives and PSUs are your biggest concern. Everything else will work till obselesence. Don't cheap out on a PSU. Get a good one with a good warranty and you'll be fine for years. Hard drives; well they are what they are. They have a shorter life span (due to moving, mechanical parts) so they will eventually fail. One thing I haven't seen people address though is thermal paste.

Definitely needs to be replaced every 2-3 years. I found a better solution though. A graphite thermal pad works almost as well as the best thermal pastes out there but here's the best part: you just put it on and leave it. No paste. No glue. No mess. Doesn't dry out. Reusable. Make sure its only on the IHS (heat spreader) and not touching any electrical part. You can read the reviews and if you want a video for proof, Linus Tech Tips on youtube made a video about them and tested it out and showed the results.

EDIT: thermal paste/graphite pad for your CPU. Maybe you're a beginner so I just wanted to clarify that. I have also used graphite thermal pads for GPUs but thats me getting ahead of yourself. The main point is that watch out for paste. For simplicity, ease of use, pretty much fool proof, performance, and longevity, I would HIGHLY recommend checking out the graphite thermal pads.

EDIT2: I'm recommending it based off personal experience, not just reading/watching reviews.

EDIT3: Added video link

u/RADicalSievert · 2 pointsr/Amd

Linus made a video on the pad, also here's an amazon link
The high end pastes should only be slightly better, but the pad has enough advantages to outweigh a difference of 1-2 degrees

u/fearlesskiller · 2 pointsr/Alienware

Mhm I see. It just looks all kinda complicated on my laptop because i need to take off like 3-4 layers before actually reaching the cpu, gpu...

Also can I buy that paste on amazon?
Like this ?

u/NotACatMeme · 2 pointsr/buildapc


Gently and without excess alcohol are the watch words. That thread implies putting the drops on the CPU, while I would wet the coffee filter (with the 90%+ alcohol! not water) before wiping instead.


If you have a local computer shop, they'll have some thermal paste and it is probably fine. I've used various kinds of Arctic Silver and the paste that came with a Noctua fan. Amazon has both of these available for one day shipping in my area:


The second one comes with cleaning wipes, though from the reviews it looks like they are just alcohol wipes. If you're already nervous and unsure, the reviews say the wipes work well and it might take some uncertainty out of the process for you.

u/PCwhatyoudidthere · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace paste does matter. It's not HUGE but again. Spend the extra $2.

u/mayhem-8 · 2 pointsr/mac

Hi, The thermal paste we use at the Apple Authorised Service Provider I work for is this It is much better than the Apple thermal.

The Samsung EVO 860 you linked is an SSD we use for customers Macs, we also use the Crucial MX500, both are good SSDs.

The ram you linked is fine, we use Crucial ram but Crucial ram is normally more expensive.

u/ThunderAnt advice to make a bootable USB installer before repalcing the drive is a good idea as it won't rely on the internet during the install.

If you have the MacBook Pro 13" 2012 non retina then be extremely careful with the hard drive cable as it easily fails

u/geordiesvisor · 2 pointsr/macpro

Total cost was 910ish. My build is a 4,1 2009 flashed to 2010. Intel xeon x5680, 48gb ram 1066 ECC, 4 tb SSD (bought 3, had an extra laying around to make 4), added a USB 3.0 card, and an MSI RX560 2GB GPU.

I also had a mechanical keyboard, display, and magic mouse prior to the build. So maybe plan on 1200-1300 if you need to buy those and the extra SSD as well. That system from Newegg includes a 1tb HDD though, so you can load it up in one of the hard drive sleds as a storage drive, just don't use it as the boot drive. PM anytime if you have any questions!

u/LA_Smog · 1 pointr/buildapc
  1. Replacement screws - Sometimes you lose a screw, sometimes they ship mis-manufactured junk screws, and sometimes there just aren't enough. Having extras is almost always useful.
  2. Spare HDMI or DisplayPort cable - Not all monitors come with a cable, or the cable they come with won't run at high resolution without causing screen artifacts.
  3. Anti-static mat and strap - Many people will tell you you don't need this, and you might not. But I do recommend it for most people. The alternate is to constantly ground to the chassis before reaching inside for anything. You are trying to equalize your electrical potential to the system ground. Having the mat and strap means you don't forget or make a mistake.
  4. Tools/Toolkit - Seems simple but I have been people with a butter knife try to build computers. If you are building just a standard computer you don't need much, but make sure you have a #1 phillips screwdriver and a #2.5 flathead screwdriver at minimum.
  5. Thermal paste - Most coolers come with paste in the box or pre-applied. If you aren't sure you can get a cheap tube like I have linked for a few bucks so you can at least get your build complete. Then you can figure out if you want to strive for a few degrees less later.

    I am sure am missing a few things, but this is a decent starting point and should get your first computer built. The extra fans, mounts, tools, etc can be bought later if you decide you are going to be doing this more than once.
u/FancyJesse · 1 pointr/buildapc

Forgive me for being a bit sceptic about ASRock, but I never really heard of them before. Do they work on motherboards specifically? Do you own ASRock motherboards?

I heard a lot about ASUS, own a 4 year old netbook from them lol.

Oh, and since I'm most likely going to purchase the motherboard you showed me, should I buy a new processor or should i swap over my current one over (i5 2320). I'll probably need to purchase thermal paste correct?

u/RageMuffin69 · 1 pointr/PS4

I didn't really pay too much attention to the thermo paste I ordered for my ps3, but hopefully it works for my ps4 if I ever need to use it on it. Is this one fine? Didn't see anything about MX4/AS5.

u/nudelete · 1 pointr/Nudelete

>-Previous threads here-

>Going back to the original - The $500 build from /u/JDM_WAAAT. Since then, many of those parts prices have drastically increased in price or are unavailable. So new objective, build it better, for less! And oh man did we ever.
>Rules for buying used server-grade parts on eBay:
>1. Buy from highly-rated, reputable sellers
>2. When "Or best offer" is available, use it. Sellers will likely discount parts, often up to 30%.
>3. Shop around. There are many resellers selling the same exact parts on eBay, find the one with the best price.
>4. Scrutinize the details of the auction. For example, make sure CPU stepping / revision is correct to what you need. Make sure components are listed as functioning and not "for parts only".
>5. Do not, under any circumstances buy QA/QC/QS/ES labled CPUs. Only buy official used / refurbished Intel Xeon CPUs. Chips with this label are not guaranteed to work, and might break functionality with something as simple as a BIOS update.
>6. Check sources other than Ebay. /r/buildapcsales can be a huge help with this. Amazon or Newegg often have huge sales on some of the new parts. Shop around people!
>Type|Item|Price (eBay) | OBO? | OBO price
>:----|:----|:----|:---- |:----
>CPU | 2x Intel Xeon E5-2650 2.00GHz, 8 core 16 thread | Incl w/ MOBO | |
>Motherboard | Supermicro X9DRi-LN4F+ Dual Socket | $281.98 | YES | $260
>RAM | 16GB (4X4GB) DDR3 ECC REG x 2 | $29.89 ea | YES | $25.00 ea
>CPU Cooler | 2x Arctic Freezer i11 CO | $19.22 ea | |
>PSU | EVGA 450W BT | $24.99 | |
>EPS Splitter | 8 Pin to Dual 8 Pin EPS Splitter | $6.00 | |
>24 Pin Extention | 12" 24 Pin Power Extention | $9.99 | |
>Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro | $79.99 | $15 MIR | $64.99
>Thermal Compound | Gelid GC Extreme | $12.99 | |
>Other | Tax, shipping, fees | $3.60 | |
>Total | | $517.76 | after OBO | $471
>Optional Extras | Sata cable 6 pack | $7.49 | |
>Optional Extras | Sata power splitter | $6.27| |
>About this build:
>There you have it. If you recall, the original $500 build actually used this same CPU. BUT ONLY 1!. Here, we used 2, gave it more RAM, and all for over $50 less!
> General: I recently completed almost this exact build, same mobo, case, etc. Just ended up with different RAM config, and used dual E5-2630L CPU's that i got for a steal. This build will be using two Intel Xeon processors on Intel Socket 2011 motherboard with Quad-Channel DDR3-ECC RDIMM memory. It does not include specifications for SSD or HDD.
CPU: The Intel Xeon E5-2650 is a high power, 8 core, 16 thread CPU that came out Q1 2012. 2.0Ghz clock, 2.8 Ghz turbo. It has a counterpart, the E5-2600L series who are also 8 cores, but low power. If you don't need quite as much Passmark power, these are also a power saving option at a slightly lower price point. MSRP when it was released was around $1100.00 USD Each. Plex Transcoder has true multi-threaded support and will take advantage of all 32 threads. So while this CPU might not be clocked as fast as what most of you are used to, the sheer amount of cores/threads will more than make up for it. Dual E5-2650's will score 15000 on passmark. Another thing to consider is that since the CPU is so cheap, you won't have to worry about it when it comes time to upgrade in the future. You can replace it with any V1 or V2 E5-2600 series cpu's. Dual E5-2660 V2, 10 core 20 thread, 2.20GHz base / 3.00 Ghz turbo in the future for about +4000 extra passmark score.
> Motherboard: Supermicro X9DRi-LN4F (Link to Supermicro Product Spec Page) This motherboard has dual 2011 sockets with a whopping 24 DIMM slots. With this build we'll be using only 8 of those available DIMMS, so there's a possible future upgrade. 6 SATA ports are standard, along with 2 SAS ports, for a total of 14 available SATA connections. Quad Gigabit NIC is also standard, plus IPMI.
RAM: Here, we're using 8x4GB DDR3 ECC REG for quad channel support, and a total of 32GB of available memory. 32GB is a good value here. Another 2 sets would fill all 24 slots, for a total of 96GB.
> CPU Cooler: There's not much to say here. It's compatible, it's quiet, and it works. We won't be overclocking, so there's not much to worry about so long as it works. Also designed for continuous operations.
PSU: It's cheap, powerful enough, and works. Not much more to say.
> Case: This case has full SSI-EEB+ (E-ATX with specialized mounting) support. Supports 6 3.5" hard drives two 2.5" SSDs, and two 5.25" bays natively. It's an all-around wonderful case, and it's really well-constructed (I have one, it's great). Also, one of the few cases that actually will fit this massive MOBO. In the front is a MASSIVE 200mm intake fan. Didn't even know they made them that big.
Splitter/Extension These are necessary with the parts listed above to work. The power supply listed only has 1 8 Pin EPS connection for the CPU. Since we have 2, need a splitter. If you use a different PSU, check on the # of EPS connections. If it has 2, this part is not necessary. This board BARELY fits in the case. I know, I have both! Here's some pictures to show. Because of this, wiring the power can be a bit tricky, and to get it done in a clean way, need the 12" extension.
Thermal Paste This is the best non-liquid metal thermal compound out there, hands down.
>Cautionary notes, other details
>1. Server equipment is stripped down to the bare minimum for compatibility and reliability. Because of this, features you are used to having might be missing - for example, some server motherboards don't have onboard audio. Also, most will use VGA onboard.
>2. Use a SSD for your host OS. This is likely where your Plex metadata will live, so if you're going to generate thumbnails and you have a sizeable library, make sure to get an appropriate size. I have about 20TB of media with thumbnails turned on, and 500GB is starting to feel tight. About 250GB is a good start for most people.
>3. Familiarize yourself with the BIOS options. Some may be different than consumer models. Make sure Hyper-threading is turned on in the BIOS. When in doubt, clear the CMOS / reset to default. You should verify that all 24-threads are showing in your host OS.
>4. Almost any OS will work. Includes ESXI, unRAID, FreeNAS, Linux, and Windows of course.
>5. Evaluate your RAID options. This motherboard has capabilities for onboard RAID, but that isn't for everyone.
>Upgrades, other parts
>1. Cheap storage in the form of $33 refurbished 2TB Hitachi Ultrastar hard drives. These are Enterprise level drives, great for use with RAID arrays.
>2. Sell the pair of E5-2650's & get Dual E5-2660 V2, 10 core 20 thread, 2.20GHz base / 3.00 Ghz turbo for 19,000 Passmark score. At time of posting these were $249.99 OBO w/ free shipping, extremely great value currently. If you're more concerned about power consumption, consider a pair of E5-2650L's for $41.50 each OBO at the time of this post, for a sweet ~14k passmark at only 70w TDP each.
>4. Liquid cooling - If you plan on upgrading to V2's this is a good idea. Can get Corsair H55's for $60 each.
>5. DO IT ALL! If you want more power right now, sell the CPU's that come with the mobo for ~80 and grab a pair of E5-2660's for $240. Triple the RAM for an extra $100. Liquid cool the PSU's for an added $80. Finally, upgrade to a 550w semi modular 80+ gold psu for an extra ~$30 (one's on sale @ Newegg for $55 after MIR currently). Grand Total: around $840.
> Q: Aren't used parts unreliable?*

u/MRThundrcleese · 1 pointr/techsupport

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is pretty much the best. Gelid GC-Extreme is the best bang for your buck

u/iLefter1s · 1 pointr/laptops

For the undervolt you can easily push easily,

-120mV core ( moving to -150 you need to check for stability )

-100mV cache ( -120 may cause instability )

-100mV iGPU core

-100mV system agent

Make a throttlestop profile and make it start automatically. There is a ton of tutorials.

You can cut down the clock speeds since you cant see benefit above 3.8ghz .

Make 4.0ghz single core , 3.9ghz dual core , 3.8ghz quad core , or lower in a similar 0.1ghz decrease.

These downclocks will get the higher undervolting values possible , like -180 core.


In terms of significance Undervolt = Thermal Paste > Cooling Pad



Ok , start by watching these videos. ( @around 5min . ) full walkthrough of the previous model. general repaste video.


Kryonaut thermal paste


Gelid GC thermal paste.

u/johncrist1988 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

GC Extreme has a thermal conductivity of 8.5 W/mK which puts it right up there with AS5. Sounds pretty solid to me!

u/Turn-n-Burn · 1 pointr/buildapc

I would get a hyper 212 and some new thermal paste. NOT arctic silver. This is very very good. All together your talking a $50 investment for a lot of peace of mind.

u/Nostalk779 · 1 pointr/Alienware

Gelid extreme is a very good paste. I used both kryonaut and gelid, and gelid is a better value... temp difference is negligible.

u/The_Scheme · 1 pointr/PS4

Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme

This is the BEST paste available, and it has been the best for a very long time (based on benchmarks -- you can look them up if you'd like). Do not buy anything else.

u/brryz_ · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I used GC Extreme, cause it's cheaper but still close to Kryonaut's performance. Also, I put the Sunon x250 fan in my x240 and it has made it much quieter in general.

u/steeda1974 · 1 pointr/Alienware
u/Voorrk · 1 pointr/intel

Oh true that. And ya 80-90 is pretty high. I think someone else posted that it will shave off a good 20-30 with a delid. One thing I noticed also is to use good thermal paste. I tried artic silver at first but a buddy had some . Decent drop in heat worth the extra couple dollar.s

u/littlegreymen12 · 1 pointr/Alienware

no undervolting

I first re-pasted with Artic Silver 5 and didn't see any improvements.

Then re-pasted with the below and haven't had issues since.

Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal Compound TC-GC-03-A

u/HMFW213 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace This list includes everything except my two side monitors , my monitor stand and my thermal paste . I will not name the company I went with for a prebuilt nor will I answer your DM's about the company. It was a live and learn situation and I'm moving on. Next step is my crazier audio set up I will be saving for. Hope you like the build and I cant wait to be back to gaming!

u/Retardditard · 1 pointr/Amd

You can buy MOSFET heatsinks.

They use thermal adhesive. Just peal and stick.

I strongly suggest copper sinks.

u/SwagLikeCalliou · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace you dont actually have to buy heatsinks, if you can find a way to cool off the vrms with fans you will be fine

u/the_skine · 1 pointr/Amd

Have you bought any heatsinks yet?

If not, do you know the clearance? I've found this post where someone installed a Morpheus that uses these and these, but I'm uncertain of the clearance on the Enzotech heatsinks (latter link).

u/awaythrow810 · 1 pointr/buildapc

That card has a non-reference PCB, you may have trouble finding a full cover block for it. The EKWB configurator says that EK does not make any compatible blocks.

You could use a universal block but would need to use things like these to cool the VRAM/VRMs

u/ucelik137 · 1 pointr/buildapc

RMA wont work because 1) Gigabyte support sucks 2) It is their design that is flawed, it is not like there is a malfunctioning part. In daily-light usage it is ok for 6600k(at least better than 6700k) if you encounter problems I suggest to add VRM coolers on it by yourself to cool them there are lots of it which would work flawlessly. I suggest copper ones like these

u/BlackMoth27 · 1 pointr/headphones

>because the VRM isn't cooled

on pretty much any card, that's why they sell these

i'm not going to use that particular heatsink, that's silly. i'm going to likely use a CM Hyper T2
or one that i have that looks right.

u/dramahitler · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm not sure, 775 is pretty old at this point and you'll have trouble finding anything let alone something good for OC. You could try asking around /r/hardwareswap or you could get some VRM heatsinks and use your current board and see how far you can take it that way.

u/sflittle · 1 pointr/watercooling

If you're overclocking high enough to require more vrm cooling, you can set up your top case fans as intake to move air over the vrm heatsinks.
If that isn't enough, you can't buy real heatsinks(not the decorative crap they put on):
And if that still isn't enough, you can go for a monoblock to cool it like your cpu.
An important note to remember is that the VRM is typically rated at 120c, so they can handle a lot of heat.

u/king_cannabis · 1 pointr/buildapc

i am not in the US so don't really know the best options

via amazon here is the NZXT Kraken G10

here is an example of a compatible cooler, the Corsair H55

and here is an example of VRM heatsinks

i don't know if these are the best priced options just grabbed good examples of what would work

note that this is more modification than people usually do - replacing a GPU heatsink is not too common of an activity but it is not too hard if you are careful

u/chaos_faction · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can get these off of amazon and you can most likely find similar ones for cheaper too

u/enelsaxo · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thank you! And how about buying some heat sinks for the MOSFETs, then?

u/AmdFan54 · 1 pointr/Amd

You can probaly buy em cheaper elsewhere.they have a very strong thermal tape on them just put them over the covers two vrm inthink. They also sell the low profile ones for the vram. I don't recommend thermal paste as it's a permanent solution and you would want to remove it if you wanted to sell card.

Btw rhese.are.good for ram chips
Depending on the clearance you might want to use these for the vrm

u/lgoolsby · 1 pointr/Planetside

AMD user. Overclocked CPU to get more performance, got limited by motherboard VRM temperatures. Buying some of these to push it harder. Gonna be fun.

u/Symphonic7 · 1 pointr/Amd

I put these on these on the gddr5 chips. I cleaned the adhesive off of them and used thermal pads to attach them.

Cosmos ® 8 PCS Copper VGA RAM Cooling Heatsinks cooler + Cosmos Cable Tie

I couldn't find low profile copper heatsinks small enough for the vrms on my 480 so I used these aluminum ones with some more thermal pads. Most small copper ones were tall, and I wasn't sure if it would fit together once the gpu cooler was attached .

Cosmos ® 20 PCS mini Aluminum Chips VGA RAM Cooling Heatsinks heat sink cooler + Cosmos Cable Tie

These might do

Enzotech Mosfet Passive Heat Sink, 6.5 x 6.5 x 12 mm, Copper, 10-pack

u/canned_pho · 1 pointr/AMDHelp

Basically what other have said, check the cpu cooler mounting.

>b450M pro-m2

Please buy these:

Your motherboard has zero VRM heatsinks. IDK how dangerous that is, but you are probably reducing the life of your motherboard, and your CPU will throttle because the mosfets on your motherboard will run very hot without heatsinks with a 2700x.

I find it scary that the 2700x is pushing 1.45v(albeit briefly) through a motherboard with 0 heatsinks.

Clean surfaces(including the copper heatsink surface) with alcohol 91% before installing the copper heatsinks.

The 3m thermal tape is basically permanent if everything is cleaned and pressure is applied for 30 seconds for each heatsink properly.

>Static Shear test of holding
>3M test method: 500g @ 70°C using 1 in^2


You can see the thermal tape held 500g(about 1 pound) of weight for a WEEK and did not fail.

u/Redditenmo · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'd be really tempted to wait till Monday and see what AMD's showing at Computex will tell us about their upcoming Ryzen 3 CPU's.

That aside, the 9700 (non K) should work in you mobo just fine, I'd probably put some mosfet heatsinks on the VRM just to be safe as the 9700 will be pushing that board to it's limit.

u/retrocomputix · 1 pointr/buildapc

Maybe if you use thermal glue, but a penny doesn't have that much surface area, and I'm not sure how well it conducts heat.

It's better to get specialized heat sinks like these.

u/moemaomoe · 1 pointr/overclocking

These might work better to get the little ones in the corner near the io.

u/Awilen · 1 pointr/watercooling

I think the EK-VGA Supremacy (copper or nickel, your choice) will do. The block can be oriented in any direction.

As for the VRAM and VRM chips it will be another story though... For the VRAM EK has Akasa AK-VMC01-BK VGA RAM Heatsinks (they don't need a whole lot of cooling, some cards don't even have any VRAM heatsink at all), and Enzotech has copper VRM heatsinks but you might need to cut them to size. Point a fan at them (the ones on the rads should be enough since they are close) and you are done.

u/nickthaskater · 1 pointr/overclocking

With respect to the comments about your VRM cooling needs, it's not difficult to make some gains in that area.

Get these:

Apply them to your VRMs as illustrated here:

(the 10 modules in the red rectangle to the left of the CPU socket)

You end up with something like this:

u/t0r3n0 · 1 pointr/overclocking

How effective do you think these would do the job?

u/RedSawn · 1 pointr/sffpc

I got these ones. The original heatsinks are attached by 2 screws each on the bottom of the board. You just unscrew those and they come off. The copper heatsinks come with thermal pads with plenty spare if they don't stick well enough.

u/lemmyk · 1 pointr/sffpc

What I did was remove the heatsinks on the z370i and replace them with some VRM heatsinks I found elsewhere. That allowed me to mount my cooler with its fins parallel to the ram and drastically reduced temperatures in the case. I used these, but they don't appear to be in stock with amazon anymore.

u/Janusdarke · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Just get something like this and this before you remove anything.

u/PhotonicDoctor · 1 pointr/buildapc

You're still better off getting a good aftermarket cooler. It will drop temps by a lot. Having aftermarket thermal compound such as Arctic silver is even better. Just make sure not to use CPU thermal compund on GPU. Here's the guide on GPU in case. For GPU use Arctic Silver Ceramique. or Arctic MX-4 Make sure to read on how to apply compunds for CPU and GPU the right way. They are different for each component.

u/SPMrFantastic · 1 pointr/computertechs

We used [this](ARCTIC MX-4 Carbon-Based Thermal Compound, Non-Electricity Conductive, Non-Capacitive, Non-Bleeding - 20g at my old job. Used to do game console repairs also so we went through thermal paste pretty quickly.

u/LegendaryRav · 1 pointr/techsupport

arctic MX-4 used to be a solid go-to paste it should be something you're looking for. None conductive and very good at heat transfer.

u/ac1115 · 1 pointr/gamingpc

indigo xtreme or go home

but seriously, I just buy a jumbo sized tube of mx-4 no curing time and it's a steal for 22 bucks.

skinneelabs did a great roundup last year of a bunch of TIM. getting a little out of date, but still great info.

u/Call_Me_ZeeKay · 1 pointr/watercooling

No point in doing it unless you want to do it for "fun".

Something like this would probably be more than enough:

u/dumb_jellyfish · 1 pointr/nvidia

I've actually been researching this quite a bit lately but there doesn't seem to be tons of information out there. I think it depends on what current cooling solution the card has. Some cards have a heat spreader across the VRMs that can be left on under the G10 but the 670 FTW doesn't appear that way. The 670 FTW's heat spreader looks like it probably has to come off for the G10 to fit on.

I'm not sure what other people are using but I'd probably get these unless I heard otherwise:

u/Dstanding · 1 pointr/hardware

RAM heatsinks? Just get, like some of these. Or anything that's copper or aluminum and roughly RAM-chip-sized, and thermal-tape it to the RAM.

u/BrideOfAutobahn · 1 pointr/sffpc

i found some stick-on low profile copper heatsinks on amazon that worked for me. short enough to clear the actual cooler, and anecdotally they work fine


u/Broseph_McTatertots · 1 pointr/hardware

FWIW airflow actually isn't very important in real-world testing. LTT did an experiment and found that you need to basically fill the entire inside with blankets before there's a difference.

Also the issue with m.2 overheating can be 100% addressed by mounting some stick-on RAM heat sinks you can get for a few bucks on Amazon like these:

They're a good idea even if you have an open case and water cooling.

u/SimpleJoint · 1 pointr/NZXT

They're unavailable now, but it's jot like they're brand specific. Any sinks with the same measurements should be fine.

u/TehSoulja · 1 pointr/buildapc

I was thinking about something like this:
Do those still qualify as heatspreaders? Sorry the naming got me a bit confused here.

u/nerdthatlift · 1 pointr/buildapc

This is what I got for my R9 390. You probably could find different ones on Amazon.

> the g12 fan is above those?

You're correct. The G12 fan would be above the VRAM and subsequently would be cooling the copper heatsink.

u/brokenearth03 · 1 pointr/Amd

Question: would aftermarket copper heatsinks fit on TOP of the vram and under the heatsink?

Thinking of these style, linked below:

u/RetnuhTnelisV · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yes as an exhaust. The VRMs were my biggest concern so I bought two sets of these and they helped a lot. VRMs don't go over 80 under heavy load like Unigine or BF4 (fwiw). The 390x used to thermal throttle before liquid cooling it. It would reach near 100c. Ridiculous. Now even with that small AIO it does not exceed 65 and is stupid quiet. I put a noctua on it as well so....

I was thinking of CX 390s but will wait until I up resolution. Thinking mic and camera just it...crazy ran out of things to really buy haha

u/Reddit_Is_So_Bad · 1 pointr/buildapc

Can confirm, I'm running my 970 SSC with a G10 and a Kraken AIO cooler. The VRMs got hot so I just searched on Amazon for "VRM heatsink", bought these.

The 970 doesn't have an on-board VRM heat monitor so I have no idea what the actual temps were, but while under load they went from "giving my finger literal first degree burns" to "like holding a semi-warm cup of coffee." I feel a lot more comfortable with it now, and my 970 idles at 26C and doesn't ever go over 50C under extreme load. It's great.

u/JakeFrmStatfarm · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/lessthanzach · 1 pointr/nvidia

Are you running a 2080ti with the G12? I do really want to try and keep the PCB baseplate on there and it's pretty difficult to find confirmed information on whether or not it's compatible. If not, I can always order more of the copper passive heat sinks I already have. Would be even better if I can find a white G12 and mix with another white 360mm cooler setup like I have for my CPU.

I really appreciate your input, definitely helped me make up my mind.

u/zeneval · 1 pointr/Bitcoin


you can definitely find them cheaper elsewhere, or get a big one and cut it down. shrug. but for best effect you should pull the stock heat sink off the back and sand down the coating on the back of the board and put them there with very thin layer of non-conductive material since these chips are mounted upside down sort of. I have 10 left that I don't really need, if it were easy I'd just send them to you somehow. :)

u/SoMass · 1 pointr/buildapc

I ended up buying

because I couldn't find the Morpheus on amazon and doing liquid was over my budget. I am looking at

Vram heat sinks but not sure if I will need them, figuring I would need 3 packs to cover everything. What are the chances they will fall off or cause a short circuit in something?

Edit: also can I use any thermal paste for the gpu because I have artic silver 5 left over that I used for my cpu.

u/devopia · 1 pointr/PS4

This one or this one?

u/entreri22 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you could care less, that means you care : O

Everything looks good, prob would suggest a 480 8gb over the 1060 though. Most people are moving away from the hyper 212, cant remember what they are flocking to now... but do a quick google. Thermal paste seems a bit expensive,

Yay i save you a few dollars!

u/shokalion · 1 pointr/techsupport

Most things in the computer are fine as long as you're using static protection. Nothing that you can get at by taking the side panel off your case is dangerous. You're more likely to cause damage than you are to get any kind of shock, hence static protection. Even with the thing running (which it shouldn't be) the worst you can likely get is a bruised nail off a fan. The high voltages are inside your power supply, and that's behind another casing even when your side panel's off.

Get yourself an anti-static wrist strap, and connect it to some bare metal on your computer. Then when you're working, you can't build up a static charge and zap any components.

Beyond that, look in your motherboard manual for instructions on how to take off the cooler. Normally there's some sort of clip that holds it on, or there are four screws that you undo. You may or may not have to remove the CPU cooling fan first.

Once you have the cooler off, clean off the old thermal paste from underneath, clean it off the top of your CPU, and while you're there make sure the heatsink is clean and all the dust is removed from it.

Then apply some fresh stuff. Arctic Silver 5 is a good thermal paste, and even the tiniest syringe should last you years.

Put no more than a pea-sized amount on the middle of your chip, after you've cleaned off all the old stuff, and then press the cooler back into place, clipping it or screwing it back on, whatever applies to your arrangement.

That should bring your cooling back up to spec.

If you've not touched anything else about your computer, undervolting it to fix a gradually manifesting cooling issue is going about it the wrong way. Fix what's stopping it cooling properly rather than making the computer run cooler to compensate.

u/ParamedicWookie · 1 pointr/swtor

I concur with other, a beefier cpu would be great, and it doesn't really have to be the latest series.
Also whatever cpu you decide I would throw in a cooler master hyper 212. It's way better than a stock cooler and you get a lot of bang for your buck.
Also use good paste, like arctic silver

u/nailindapail · 1 pointr/buildapc

I think this is the most popular one out there, works great and is pretty cheap:

u/JoshS1 · 1 pointr/techsupport

No it also doesn't come with a cooler.

When I bought mine I also got this cooler I idle about 27°c at load max about 65-68°c. The cooler will come with a small thermal paste packet, but I personally prefer to use Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste.

u/senorroboto · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ah so it was locked properly. Well that's a bad sign that it still came off and could have damaged something. What thermal paste did you use? People use thermal paste as a generic term but there are thermal greases which don't stick too much or there are thermal adhesives/epoxies which are designed to stick on heat sinks with. The same manufacturers sell both kinds. For example:

Normal thermal paste/grease:

Thermal adhesive/epoxy for sticking on heat sinks semi-permanently:

u/TheDotCommunist · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

I'm pretty sure it was this in a larger tube:

Either way, yeah it was an ancient decommissioned desktop so it wasn't a big deal. I've seen CPUs break in a myriad of ways but this was the first time I've seen so much of the wafer ripped off.

u/BennyGoId · 1 pointr/PS4

You can still contact Sony Customer Support on where to get it fixed. I wouldn't recommend GameStop, but I don't know where else you could bring it since most computer repair shops work solely on desktops and laptops.

Here's a DIY video on how to re-apply thermal paste underneath the die. You might want to watch through the whole video so that you take the necessary precautions so you don't accidentally break anything:

And here's the thermal paste/compound you'll want to use:

u/Andr00F · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

Thermal paste is what helps transfer heat from the cpu to the cooler, the “fan” you have on your cpu IS a cooler. And a good thermal paste is arctic silver

u/Splic_000 · 1 pointr/PS4

This is the one I had laying around that I purchased off Amazon, it is Arctic Silver 5

u/cometbs · 1 pointr/Dell
u/jenksy · 1 pointr/Alienware

"Arctic Silver" is probably what he's using, which you can buy online here for about 10 bucks.

You'll need to clean the top of the CPU with something like Isopropyl alchohol to remove all the old, crusted paste, and there are a TON of videos online on how to do this.

Ultimately, you're paying this gentleman for his time. It's a quick process but requires taking some things apart and he's probably gauging his time at about $75 / hour here, which is an entirely fair wage for a computer repair person.

Question is, why does your CPU need a repaste? Is it running hot, making you think the Heatsync isn't doing it's job?

I've only ever heard of re-applying your thermal paste if you had to remove / replace your heatsync from your CPU for some reason... Have you done that?

u/Ronny070 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Couple of questions. I need to buy some thermal paste for my CPU, and I have these 2 options, is there any difference between them that I should be aware of? Option 1 and Option 2. By the way, this is my first time applying some paste, even though I already know (it's been practically drilled into my brain by this ub and the pcmasterrace one) that I should use a very small amount of it, do I need to give the paste time to cool off or something like that? Or could I just attach the heatsink and start using it normally?

Also, I was gonna buy some led strips for my case and I really wanted to avoid getting a soldering iron. I had my eye on these, and I don't see anything in regards to whether they will need soldering in order to install them or not.

u/aidenpryde3025 · 1 pointr/elderscrollsonline

Apple used substandard thermal paste in their systems in 2011 and it has likely dried out and isn't conducting heat energy to the heatsink effectively anymore. So if you're comfortable with some "surgery" get yourself some Arctic Silver thermal paste then look at this iFixit teardown. Pay attention to step 10, as that is where the CPU and GPU thermal paste is shown (I assume you have a MacBook, but if not, here's the iMac one.

u/connicpu · 1 pointr/ffxiv

Can't go wrong with some good old Arctic Silver

u/zelfsilverwolf · 1 pointr/buildapc

Arctic silver has served me well in multiple machines over the years.

Arctic Silver 5 AS5-3.5G Thermal Paste

u/ArPDent · 1 pointr/buildapc

i personally use the noctua TIM, but thats cuz i always seem to have some on hand, plus it's all pretty-much the same

u/Iamthenolan · 1 pointr/buildapc

I bought artic silver this summer, specifically this one right here:

Arctic Silver 5 AS5-3.5G Thermal Paste

Did I get the counterfeit stuff?

u/lennoxonnell · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If it comes with the stock cooler it will have thermal paste pre applies on the heatsink.

if not

u/AmazonWTFBot · 1 pointr/intjedit

Product Image

I scoured the web high and low -- in search of your linked pic,

I looked around and soon I found

your item -- that was quick!

The above is this item's information as of 12-8-2016

Product Image: Arctic Silver 5 AS5-3.5G Thermal Paste

Rating: 4/5 stars


^Incorrect ^Image ^| ^Get ^A ^Bot

u/doglord99 · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/KARMA_P0LICE · 1 pointr/computers

Clean out the vents on your case.

Get canned air and blow out all the dust.

Make sure all your fans are spinning.

Make sure your desktop is in a well-ventilated and air conditioned area.

Remove the heatsink, clean it and the top of the CPU and then reapply better thermal paste

u/onedownfiveup · 1 pointr/techsupportmacgyver

65c isn't bad at all, unless that's at idle and even then depending on what's going on that's not TOO bad. Stock cooler? Is it an AMD? Overclocked?

I have used Artic Silver 5 for years.

u/DaBombDiggidy · 1 pointr/nvidia

i used this arctic silver & their compound remover. Both worked great and my card is running a bit cooler than it did. It's not needed though, i had to order some because of a seperate issue with my card before it blew up.


u/yayoirc · 1 pointr/computers

If you change the CPU like others mention it won't make much of a difference however you will have the oppportunity to clean things up and reapply new thermal compound I always use this stuff. For 8 bucks though it's not a big loss. You can run benchmark before and after to see.

Also consider you need a 64 bit OS when increasing the memory size beyond 3 GB. I assume you were loading it with four modules, you could get these instead with faster timings for gaming for about the same price. The heatsinks look cool, and in my opinion matter but others say they don't do much!

Another piece of advice is if you are faced with upgrading the BIOS to accept the chip or memory, do not flash it from an operating system.

A cheap SSD for the OS and two games would also do justice. You can use your existing drive for storage.

u/LordMindParadox · 1 pointr/techsupport


So uhh in case that link doesn't work, Arctic Silver thermal paste, 7 bucks. It's one of the best you can get.

u/svenge · 1 pointr/buildapc

Arctic Silver 5 is decent enough and readily available for a modest price.

u/Gunmetalz · 1 pointr/buildapc

I want to clarify something here, by "riser," do you mean the x-brace for the back of the board that Intel coolers use?

The rest of this comment assumes you meant that.

>Was running with a stock intel CPU cooler without risers.

I don't think the stock cooler comes with the X-brace.

>my CPU cooler broke.

I'm terribly sorry this has happened to you.

>it seems a lot of replacements use screws with risers.

Yeah the aftermarket coolers all need this big honking x-brace on the back of the board. Don't worry, they all come with the parts and things.

>Also do I have to buy thermal paste if I buy the cooler

Absolutely. Most coolers come with some janky-ass thermal paste already applied at the factory... but uhhh honey, that don't impress me much, you know what I'm saying? Buy your own. Here's an expensive kind, here's a cheap kind. Yes, there's a performance difference.

u/imkylar · 1 pointr/buildapc

I bought the cooler, because I found a stable 4.0ghz OC on my 1600, but the temps just weren't what I wanted, so I toned it back to 3.8. Also, a friend of mine has a 1800x he said he'll sell to me for a very good price when the new gen comes out.

I was able to get my RAM to 2933 with good timings (suppose I was lucky there), plus I got both for only $150 with sales.

As for the 1070, that's something I'm wanting. I want to sell my 1060 while prices are still a bit up, and get the 1070 when the new gen comes out, but then I'd just be left with a PC that can't do anything until then...

I also have this paste that I never used-

Edit: I also didn't want to go fan cooler, because I am a bit of an aesthetics person, which yes, does hurt the wallet a bit, but it's so satisfying to me when I see something that I really wanted, and looks just how I'd like it to. It makes it worth it for me.

u/TheNitromunkey · 1 pointr/buildapc

What would you consider a good daily voltage for the 8700k?

Also I'm an idiot and just had to look up what delidding is. Would this stuff be good to use?

u/EldeederSFW · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you really want to buy thermal paste, Arctic Silver 5 seems to have ridiculously good reviews on Amazon. It's what I just used swapping out my 7700k for an 8700k. Seems to do the trick.

u/jnutt9 · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I used this --AS5 so that (I think...) is good. I basically just opened up Prime95 and let it do its thing. Utilization of each core was at 100% (and all were at 3594 MHz). iGPU shows 649MHz at 91 C (no percentage shown).

Downloading TPFC right now and will run again for a bit. Honestly, I may not have done the screws in the right order on the way back, but I did make sure that they all were tightened (not forced at all, but patterned in).

u/serratemplar · 1 pointr/RetroPie

I am, yea. I picked up a JBTek Transparent "case" which is really just two transparent acrylic plates with four posts (i.e. no walls) and a fan. (The case didn't come with instructions but the Amazon listing comments had instructions with photos from other customers which was a huge help.) I also got some a uxcell 25mmx25mmx15mm heatsink which I stuck on with Artic Silver thermal paste. Note that I mounted the fan pointing inwards which is the inverse of their photo, because it's better for cooling. (Same reasons you point your CPU's fans to blow in and not out.)

JBTek case:
uxcell sinks:
artic silver:

I no longer see the temp warnings. :) Didn't involve any soldering either, which made me happy.

(Sorry for the massive delay; real-life's giving me a beating.)

u/Hicrayert · 1 pointr/PUBATTLEGROUNDS

Yes, you might only need a screw driver and I would 100% buy some black thin zip ties at the $1 store near you. Oh shit now that you mention it you should absolutely get this
the stock thermal compound that comes with the CPU is normally garbage and this will lower your cpu temps by 10*. There is a reason ther are over 5000 5 star reviews on it. also if you dont have your own copy you will need to buy windows and barrow a disk drive to load it onto your computer. other then that all cables will come with parts. most will come with the PSU. Cables for connecting a monitor will come with the mobo and the gpu, some with the case. The case its self comes with fans already. you get the idea.

u/NotYourEverydayDonut · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Go with whatever you feel safer with, There's no shame in not having a liquid cooler... If anything, get the 212 Evo, its cheap and it gets the job done. Plus its pretty much silent, much quieter than that loud ass stock fan.

I made the switch from a 212 Evo to an H100i

Hyper 212 Evo -- most recommended

CRYORIG H7 -- 2nd recommended

Noctua NH-D15 -- Expensive/Huge...

u/Nitegrip · 1 pointr/buildapc

Get this H7 Cooler it will look great and keep temps much lower than stock fan. Decently cheap as well.

u/Boom- · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hyper 212 isn't the best anymore, there's a couple options. This one runs cooler and quieter

u/tallbeerlover · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I would imagine installing windows on the new drive, then booting from it and copying stuff over wouldn't be too difficult. I'm not sure what your internet setup is, but for me it's just easier to 100% wipe and download/install than spend time moving things around.

You're absolutely right, stock Intel coolers work just fine, I saw a drop of only a few degrees when I put my Cryorig H7 in. I have garbage luck, so I will never trust a liquid cooling system.

u/MobileUser1 · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/SingularityRS · 1 pointr/techsupport

Something like this:

The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is another decent budget cooler. It's just a pain to install.

I use the Cryorig M9i to cool my i5 6600K (clocked to 4.4GHz).

u/SpectreFire · 1 pointr/bapccanada

Swap your CPU cooler out for a Cryroig H7:

There's really no reason anyone should be buying the 212 EVO now unless there's a really good deal. The Cryosrig has replaced it as the budget king.

u/Pie_Flavoured_Pie · 1 pointr/buildapc

What about this cooler? It has a similar price and from what I see it's smaller.

u/LunarBarsky · 1 pointr/techsupport

I suggest getting a Cryorig H7 instead. About the same price point and a bit easier to install than the Hyper 212.

u/InevBetrayal · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm also aware i can have both the HDD and the SSD.
Though if i'm going to spend money on the SSD at least i'll want to have the full advantage (OS+software).
However, after looking at how much space my steam library should take (I don't have a PC anymore, and the HDD is 1600km from me), i believe i'd be able to just uninstall all games from the HDD, clone the HDD into the SSD, and then reinstall the games on the HDD (with the ones i want to play staying on the SSD).

I can't buy from, it would have to be from

u/itsprime · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

> Cryorug H7

is this one fine? link

also is that a heatsink or a solid cooler? Like I said, I don't really know much about this, would be awesome if you could clear this up before that solid cooler is ship to me.

u/crabypatty · 1 pointr/buildapc

> cryorig h 7 if you want

this 1 correct?

u/recklessbaboon · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

The 5800k is a pretty old CPU, I can definitely see it bottlenecking your 970.

The 6600k is a great choice and wont hold anything back. Just remember you will need a Z170 chipset to overclock the CPU. You will also need DDR4 RAM.

This MSI has built in WiFi and bluetooth at a good price.

Lastly, the 6600k doesnt come with a cooler so you will need to buy one. The Cryorig H7 is also a good one.

u/xTatersaladx · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ya ok ur right the one that came out like 2yrs ago was like 30-40. I think so Cryorig H7 Tower Cooler

u/notaneggspert · 1 pointr/buildapc

Basically the only difference between the 1700 and the 1700x is that the 1700x is guaranteed to clock to 3.4 GHz and Turbo to 3.8 GHz on certain cores. There should be additional overclocking headroom on top of that but it's never guaranteed. Not all 1700x's can overclock to the same frequency this is the "silicon lottery".

The 1700 is clocked at 3.0 GHz (3.7 GHz Turbo) most of the time it's overclockable to the same if not better performance than the stock 1700x but this isn't guaranteed and you'll probably need a better than stock cooler to get it there. This is partially why the 1700x doesn't ship with a cooler. It needs a beefier cooler like the Cryorig H7 which is an excellent budget option, you just might need a free AM4 bracket since they're still not shipping with one. The Cooler Master 212 is the same story, the H5 is shipping with the bracket included.

You don't need a water cooler, they are generally lower profile so if you have a small case you might need one but often the stock fans aren't much quieter than the fan on the CPU coolers I linked. In brief periods of thermal testing they outperform air coolers but for long gaming sessions the difference in CPU thermals is minimal especially given the increased cost. They do look dope though.

1600 vs 1600x

1450 vs 1600 vs 1700

u/Jimmy_Two_Fingers · 1 pointr/buildapc

Dunno why it's not on PCP, but this cooler is better and cheaper. The 120mm rad closed loop coolers are just not worth it. They're loud and pretty shit.

The 1070 would be alright for 4k. If it's performance is anywhere around the 980 Ti, which it looks like it is, you'll be able to play games at 4k on higher settings with AA turned off.

u/Made4Gaming · 1 pointr/buildapc

is this the right one wanna check before i order wrong item again haha.

and ram is already shipped. Dang wish i knew mire about these stuff. Well hopefully won't be to bad

u/Excogitate · 1 pointr/buildapc

CRYORIG M9i Mini Tower Cooler


CRYORIG H7 Tower Cooler

Is it purely size? They both have good reviews, but the mini is cheaper and seems on par with the 212 cooler. Would the H7 be better, and justify the ~+$10?

u/Makaizen · 1 pointr/buildapc

For your graphics question, definitely wait on the reviews for the RX 480 to see if itll handle games at 1440p. If it doesn't then consider waiting for non-founders edition cards to be released closer to the $380 msrp.

One detail I noticed is that you are going to buy a haswell refresh CPU so you should purchase a Z97 chipset board instead. It supports Haswell refresh cpus out of the box and don't require a bios update like Z87s. Also, depending on the board you buy, Z97 also supports M.2 SSDs which could be useful for potential future upgrades.

As for your CPU cooler, while the D15 is very good for what it is, the Cryorig H7 will offer just nearly the same performance for a better value.

u/A_Neaunimes · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

It's possible that the mounting system is coming loose or that you improperly mounted it last time you cleaned/changed the paste.
I'd start with that since it's the cheapest option of the bunch.
I'd also look at the absolute CPU fan speed (which you should be able to see in HWMonitor) and compare that to what the Internet says you should get.

If ultimately you need a better cooler, I don't know what to think about the Wraith cooler you brought up. It's probably a nice upgrade.
The Cryorig H7 is currently very well regarded in that price bracket though, both cooling and temperature wise.

Of course you can always step up even higher.

u/B1ack_Iron · 1 pointr/buildapc

Folks on Part Picker are saying I should have went with:


u/lations · 1 pointr/buildapc

Good advice. Since it's the K version of the 7700 I would like to overclock a little perhaps.

Alright, so how about the Cryorig H7?

u/herrroessmann · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/randombullet · 1 pointr/buildapc

Cryorig H7 is highly acclaimed.

If you can't afford the extra $5 you can go for the Hyper 212 evo

u/vagrantsoul · 1 pointr/buildapc

if you want a decent upgrade to the cpu cooler (quieter/better looking) because of the window, highly recommend

the cryorig m9i:

and h7:
(both of these perform close to or better than the hyper 212, and look FAR better in a case).

they're also insanely easy to install vs a lot of other coolers.

I've had some stock intel coolers that were absolutely obnoxious when the speeds increased from idle. (edit-formatting)

u/Sofusbofus · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/WillOfFire2015 · 1 pointr/buildapc

if that so, I will go for RX 480 8 GB the difference in price is not that big.

about the stock cooler, you mean this one, there is a cost difference so is the noise difference that bad??

u/fleetadmiralj · 1 pointr/techsupport

Perhaps. Just a quick search brought up this as a good air cooler:

I could go water cooling if that isn't enough, but I'm not overclocking (I can't because it's not a 6500K) so hopefully I wouldn't need to do water cooling.

But aside from the heating issue, I'm still not sure if that is what is causing the rebooting. Any idea why the computer would stay on while the test was running then reboot the moment I quit it?

u/CrossedZebra · 1 pointr/techsupport

Heh, I already had this one in mind to suggest in case the other two didn't fit -

It's also a very good cooler, performs better than the 212 but below the Scythe Mugen, so in between.

It's height is only 145mm vs the 212's 159mm so it will definitely fit. But double check of course.

But get that, it's cheap and good and fits your case.

u/GnarlyPubes · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I'd recommend either the Hyper 212 EVO or the Cryorig H7.

u/smokehidesstars · 1 pointr/buildapc

Not bad!

One change: You'll get much better cooling performance with a "tower-style" cooler like this one:

The cooler you've selected right now is made for small-form-factor cases where fitting the cooler into a predetermined amount of space is more important that overall cooling performance.

u/TransientBananaBread · 1 pointr/buildapc

It's very likely that the designers of the case took that into consideration when listing the measurements. If you are okay buying parts from Amazon, the H7 is in stock. Coolers that are able to cool the 7700K starting getting expensive at this point.

u/krunchybacon · 1 pointr/buildapc

There's a few things, first of all Intel K series cpu's don't come with a cooler in the box, so you will need one. A good (but pricey) cpu cooler is the Noctua NH-D15. If you would like something more affordable the Cryorig H7 will work, although the temps will be higher than the former.

Yes, all desktop ram will fit into all desktop motherboards (sodimm or laptop ram will not).

The hard drive you selected doesen't have great reviews, for $8 more you can get a [WD Blue](

/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537074431&sr=1-1&keywords=western+digital+-+caviar+blue+1tb+3.5%22+7200rpm+internal+hard+drive) or a Seagate Barracudda, both more reputable.

The cases you linked are good for their price, but you will most likely need 1-2 more case fans as they only come with 1. If you would like some cheap fans these will do, but they wont be as good as something like the Noctua NF-F12

Dont worry about asking questions! It's what we are here for :) I'm sure I missed something, so if you have any other questions make sure to ask!

Edit 1: Do you already have windows? If not make sure to but it, as you wont have an Operation System without it (Unless you want to run linux).

u/Pete_The_Pilot · 1 pointr/BuildABetterPC

Alternative CPU coolers:


Be Quiet! Dark Rock 4 $75

Cryorig H7 $36

[Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo] ( $25


Corsair H100i $100/120(RGB)

EVGA CLC 280 $110

(No need for case fans if you're going with AIO WATER)


AsRock TaiChi Z370 $212

Asus Prime Z370-A $159

u/moveoolong · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

There are a few options.
First is comparible​ to the Evo 212 but much smaller.

Second is bigger but better , you'll have to check if it fits your case.

u/Savannix · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I have it myself, works like a charm. Here it is if you're wondering, OP. But then again, you do have a microATX case.

u/mordath · 1 pointr/buildapc

It should still work. On the amazon page it says it fits AMD CPUs as well.

u/byron755 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thanks, what does the windowed case do? and also is the cryorig H7 better than the current i32 that i listed?
also its this one right?

u/ForeverANinja · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yeah I was looking at the Cryorig H7 Tower Cooler for a cooling solution. Only thing holding me back is my current mobo doesn't support overclocking, so I'm going to be forking out $100+ for a better one. Oh well. We'll see if it's worth it.

u/singhun1t22 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

That s more than enough, you could even get an air cooler for $30 That will perform almost similar to this one.

u/madmartiganshair · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/7XR5 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Low - mid eighties aren't anything to be worried about, if it starts getting into the 90s I'd pick up a Cryorig H7.

u/Raigarak · 1 pointr/buildapc

thoughts on this sv cooler 212 hyper evo

u/betopia · 1 pointr/buildapc

Your suggestion was $10 cheaper than the CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler, so I swapped it out in the build... thanks for the input!

u/martindm03 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you wan't something low priced that will cool better, the Cryorig H7 is pretty good for $35, and to get the AM4 mounting hardware you have to go here and fill out a short form to get one free. Most of the cheaper coolers don't support AM4 right out of the box, you usually have to contact them to get an AM4 bracket. Hopefully most of them start shipping with AM4 mounting hardware in the box soon.

u/upular1 · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Didn't know you were in Canada, that does complicate things a bit. You could try as they have the Cryorig H7 in stock. /u/eluveitie93 mentioned in another comment that they have the same case as you do (Corsair 100R) and the Hyper 212 Evo fit in their case just fine.

If that's the case, you could go with and get the Hyper 212 Evo from them since they also have a rebate, bringing it down to $26 after rebate. Hyper 212 Cryorig H7

As far as air cooling goes, both are excellent coolers and they are only surpassed by the Noctua NH-D15 (which is 165mm tall with fans and costs twice as much).

u/ZataxJr · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you want to waste a little more you have the MasterAir Pro 4 that is big and is around 45$ or the be quiet! BK009 Shadow Rock that is smaller and costs around 40$-42$ or the Cryorig H7 that is mid and costs around 35$

MasterAir Pro 4

be quiet! BK009 Shadow Rock

Cryorig H7

u/Gatesleeper · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

The H7 is $39.74 + free shipping on Newegg.

$34.99 +$5 shipping on Amazon, through Canada Computers. If you live near one of those you can buy it in store to get it for $35.

u/Roman_nvmerals · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've got an i5-750 (yes old but it's doing well) with the stock cooler on it and I'd love a new aftermarket cooler so I can try some overclocking. Gigabyte P55A-UD3 mobo.

SHould I get this cooler?

I think it will fit my mobo socket and I think it should work well.

Or is there something of better value?

u/ZiariaTKO · 1 pointr/techsupport

I got an answer from Toms Hardware saying that I should get the Cryorig H7 as it is slightly better at cooling and has space for ram, opinions on this?

u/SantaWantsYourSoil · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I purchased a syringe-like tube that had enough for one use. I think I may purchase the one you mentioned as I've heard talk about it and it's inexpensive. Is this the one?

u/Jeep70cp · 1 pointr/buildapc

That's the newer model with LED backlighting, I was talking about the original

I actually can't find it on UK based websites for some reason...

u/UmbasaSouls · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

that cpu cooler is out of stock, is this the same one?

u/latex22 · 1 pointr/buildapc

My cooler is the CryoRig H7. Seating it was a bit sloppy and awkward. It slid back & forth a bit while I was trying to tighten it into place. Here is a pic of it. It turned out pretty even and centered when I was done. Not sure what the problem could be.

Nope, my MoBo came with nothing unfortunately. Not even a manual. I just ordered some data cables for a few bucks. Hopefully it works out.

u/digitalRistorante · 1 pointr/buildapc

Here's what I would do: MSI Krait edition motherboard + Corsair Dominator Platinum Series RAM sticks. It is a better overclocking mobo and you get the style points for a black/white build. Also, the RAM is faster so you're a little bit more futureproofed. The Cryorig H7 is replacing the 212 in terms of the go-to air cooler, otherwise the Corsair water cooling kit is a great option as well (also fits color scheme). I'm personally recommending 240GB since I've filled up my 120GB with games and programs twice now before I had to do some cleaning. I also like this case better, plus you can remove drive bays to make room for larger GPUs, if you are still undecided about which one you want. I wouldn't worry about M.2, I got that SSD and never ended up using it. If you do end up building this, please do take pics :)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $345.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z170A KRAIT GAMING 3X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $149.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz | $109.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
SSD | Kingston SV300S37A/240G | 67.86 @ Amazon
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card |-
Case | Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case | $54.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | ~$903.80
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-14 19:36 EDT-0400 |

u/LaughingWithMe · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Thanks for the fantastic advice! Someone actually said the same thing about the C7, but suggested the H7

What do you think?

u/Panayotes · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah I would definitely check out the Cryorig H7.

It is smaller, quieter, and performs better than the 212 Evo. It is also much less of a hassle to install, and will fit in the V31.

u/jtrias21 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Sounds good my friend! Yeah, hopefully the i7 Skylakes normalize.

I prefer Noctuas myself, and I'm not sure if you've heard of Cryorig, they're a newcomer in the CPU cooling business. I sound like a salesman but I'm actually considering one of their coolers called the H7, it's almost similar to performance to Noctua U12S, but priced close to the CM 212 EVO @ $34.99, while looking great with a black top-plate. I was browsing builds on PCPartpicker with the Cryorig and I've been drooling at the aesthetics. But you can't go wrong with Noctuas! I've used the L9i & U9S and they're amazing!

Cryorig H7 on Amazon:

u/madpacket · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

4790K can get pretty when hot overclocked (I have one) but you don't need anything huge. For a Corsair Spec-02 I recommend something like the Corsair H60 (120MM AIO) if tall DIMMs are an issue else go with something cheaper like this the Cryorig H7 Tower Cooler as it has lower height restrictions and better RAM compatibility over something typical like the overrated Evo 212:

u/CoolCatSavesTheKids · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can also consider getting the Cryorig H7 on Amazon for $34.99.

No idea why OutletPC is selling it at almost double the price.

u/Tocks2 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Any feedback on this Build? Going to be used mostly for Adobe suite illustration and pc gaming (WoW, Overwatch, League)

Phanteks Enthoo Pro Full Tower Chassis with Window Cases PH-ES614P_BK

Seasonic M12II 620 BRONZE ; SS-620GM2 80Plus Power Supply

SK Hynix Flash Memory 2.5" 250 GB Internal Solid State Drives HFS250G32TND-N1A2A

G.SKILL 16GB (2 x 8GB) Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC4-19200 2400MHz Desktop Memory Model F4-2400C15D-16GVS

MSI Pro Solution Intel Z170A LGA 1151 DDR4 USB 3.1 ATX Motherboard (Z170A SLI Plus)

Cryorig H5 Ultimate CR-H5B Middle Range CPU Heatsink with XF140 Fan

Intel Core i5 6600K 3.50 GHz Quad Core Skylake Desktop Processor, Socket LGA 1151, 6MB Cache (BX80662I56600K)

Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB GDDR5 256 bit PCI-E 3.0 x 16 Windforce OC (GV-N1070WF2OC-8GD)

u/gargoylefreeman · 1 pointr/buildapc

My Build is almost complete:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $199.23
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | Purchased For $132.47
Memory | EVGA SuperSC 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | Purchased For $55.85
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $126.21
Case | Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Titanium) ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $101.98
Power Supply | SeaSonic 660W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $79.99
Other| Corsair Gaming MM300 Anti-Fray Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad, Extended| Purchased For $17.11
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $712.84
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-28 10:47 EDT-0400 |

All I have left to decide is a CPU cooler, video card(s) and monitor. I already have a keyboard, mouse and Windows OS.

For the CPU cooler, I am looking for a good heavy duty cooler without crossing 50$. After three days of deliberation, I have narrowed it down to these two choices:

Scythe Fuma

Cryorig H5 Ultimate

I am torn between the two. I feel like the Scythe will perform better but the Cryorig looks really good. Both look good though. Will I have RAM clearence issues with EVGA ram? I'm confused!!

u/Josephn4 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I was looking at the board and saw I couldn't OC with this - I was reading the 7600k has the turbo boost to go up to 4.2 on its own and that is probably good enough for me.

Maybe this one for the cooler?

u/kingofthetewks · 1 pointr/buildapc

So something like a Cryorig H5 will be just as good as an AIO?

u/theotherdanlynch · 1 pointr/sffpc

For air, Noctua NH-L9x65 or CRYORIG H5. For water, EVGA CLC 120.

u/VortexPower999 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Good build, but I would suggest buying a CPU cooler such as this Cyrorig cooler or Be quiet! Dark Rock 4 cooler

u/PirateMclovin · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Cryorig H5 Ultimate CR-H5B Middle Range CPU Heatsink with XF140 Fan

MSI CPU Cooler, Silver/Black (Core Frozr L)

u/doc_willis · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

LoveRPi Performance Heatsink Set for Raspberry Pi 3 Model B (2 Heatsinks)

u/mrmagos · 1 pointr/RetroPie

I have the Old Skool case, can't recommend it enough. My Pi 3 is overclocked, and I added these heatsinks and a small 30mm 5v fan (running on the 3.3v rail so it's quiet) to move some air. Haven't had any overheating issues thus far, but I can give you actual temperature numbers later while running N64 games.

u/TheGuy346 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

You can get them pretty cheap on Amazon. Just look up raspberry pi heatsink. Mine came with the thermal glue already in place so I just stuck them to the CPU and the LAN.

u/thesupergeek42 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I just got them from here. For $5 I am not complaining.

Real emulators was maybe not the right word. I think heavy emulators would be better. The Pi will do fine with NES and GBA stuff, but more complex things like PSX and N64, or whatever, you will really need it.

u/swsiii · 1 pointr/RetroPie

This is what I have for my heatsinks now, it will fit your board as the chips are the same sizes.

The fan slot fits any 30x30x10mm fan powered by 5V. This one is cheap enough.

u/NewMaxx · 1 pointr/u_NewMaxx

That person likely just used a typical Raspberry Pi heatsink kit since it's cheap and easy to find. The larger chip is indeed the controller which is an ARM-based (Cortex-R) microcontroller, although running at a much lower clock than the RPi. It is the piece of hardware that throttles (70-80C range) and benefits most from cooling; generally, cooling the NAND is unnecessary (or even detrimental in some cases), although I think those latter concerns are exaggerated a bit. The smaller chip is the DRAM (DRAM cache) and like NAND it tends not to get too warm (although higher temps can cause instability, although DRAM here is not used like it is in your system or a RPi) but being adjacent to the controller I think he took a "it can't hurt" approach. Usually not worthy of concern. Although of course, the full-drive cooling solutions (incl. motherboard heatsinks) will be touching everything anyway.

u/rogerb49 · 1 pointr/RetroPie

Thanks, is this big? if not do you have a link to what you're talking about?

u/eyusmaximus · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Meh, £8.27 with free delivery. Really not very expensive and there's only a risk if you can't spread it properly, even then you just clean it off.

u/zagreen · 1 pointr/laptops

Here it is
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 1g (TG-C-001-R) Yep i think it was liquid

u/INI_Fourzero · 1 pointr/intel

Kryonaut, Gelid Extreme and MX-4 are all good. Kryonaut is the best one imo (12,5 W/mk, that's thermal conductivity - not to be mistaken with the paste being conductive - it's not) compared to 8.5 on Gelix and MX-4. I also like how easy it is to spread around

Liquid Metal is conductive (Conductonaut). Here's a good video of doing the whole thing (especially the tape part so you don't have to deal with cleaning spillage)

u/fredrichnietze · 1 pointr/buildapcsales
h80iv2 and if money is no object i would think about delidding your cpu and using something like which IS conductive so be sure to do it right and watch guides if you do it. you may also want to replace the fans with something like or
which are a bit beefier and ofc using after market thermal paste like or

using itx is cool and easy to move but the thermal challenges get a bit more expensive to deal with. price you got to pay for atx performance in a mini itx.

u/MilkySharpMan · 1 pointr/overclocking
u/shadowfu · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

100% worth it. I run all cores @ 5Ghz and sit under 60c when 100% load. I delid and I use Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut on the chip / IHS, and normal ~8.3W/mK on the IHS / Water block (larger surface area)... if I take it apart again, I'm doing the Conductonaut on the IHS.

edit: to answer you question, I have only one printer. I believe it was all of 40ml of resin to print this tool. After UV curing, the standard black resin has 65MPa tensile strength.

u/ZomBlaze · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Just make sure its Liquid Pro, Liquid Ultra, or Conductonaut.... If you're going to do something, do it right.... ;)

u/got_mule · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Are you intentionally paying a premium to try to get it from someone today or tomorrow? Because it can be had on Amazon for $16...

u/MrBaNaNeRs · 1 pointr/playstation

Here is a link to a post in r/PS4Pro


You basically replace the old thermal paste on the APU with one that transfers heat more efficiently which in this case, it's liquid metal. You can probably get the it on Amazon.

u/DatTestBench · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

>Is it worth delidding an 8086k if I am only going to do moderate overclocking?

Well cooler is always better when it comes to most PC components, and CPUs are no different.

As for if it's worth it, if you feel comfortable doing it, I guess why not, but there is always a risk, so if you do it yourself, it's at your own discretion.

>If I do, what's the best delid tool and thermal paste to do it with?

Bare in mind that I haven't delided anything, so all of these recommendations are based on what others recommended.

For the deliding tool, I'd use the der8auer Delid Die Mate 2 (tutorial).

As for liquid metal, Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut seems highly regarded. (Amazon link)

u/trikolpona · 1 pointr/Alienware

You need to use thermal grizzly conductonaut. It worked like a charm for me. you can ge it from amazon.

But make sure you know what you doing. Otherwise you will brick your laptop

u/wantonballbag · 1 pointr/flashlight

Fantastic. Great input. I'll get some thermal paste actually that's a good call.

Is this accurate for the colour?

EDIT: Just to be clear I take it electrically conductive pastes are out of the question?

Trying to decide between this:

and this:

u/fletchmanjr1 · 1 pointr/razer

Base model Blade 15 2018 with 1060

For best thermals:

Thermal pads
and liquid metal

as well as this conformal coating to prevent the liquid metal from allowing conduction to happen.

in ThrottleStop

for performance

and for Battery

Then if you want to get even better thermals
this cooling pad giving me these idle temps and these temps in Assassins Creed Odyssey after 3 hours of play Connected to my Core X Chroma.

With 32gb of RAM and 4tb of storage between the 2tb sata and the 2tb nvme drives it's my work computer with A couple VMs running and lots of chrome tabs and my main PC when i'm home plugged into the core.

if you don't like the Razer logo on the back you can get a dbrand skin on it with no logo cutout

u/KW8675309 · 1 pointr/fireTV

I've seen some heatsink mods but I wanted it to look OEM. So I got some black heatsinks and thermal tape and in less than 10 minutes and I have a much less fiery Firestick.

Heat sinks: $7 on ebay

Thermal tape on Amazon:

u/ZombieGrot · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This double-sided thermal tape works pretty well. Thermal epoxy is also an option but it's usually overkill for stepper motors. The tape is cheap, holds firmly, and has decent heat transfer.

u/3x3x3x3 · 1 pointr/buildapc

My first delid I just used a razor blade. I would highly recommend using a delid tool though, like this one from Amazon: der8auer Delid Die Mate 2 - CPU IHS Heatsink Removal Tool

u/MitigatedPigeon · 1 pointr/overclocking

I actually found it on Amazon der8auer Delid Die Mate 2 - CPU IHS Heatsink Removal Tool

u/Tomcat848484 · 1 pointr/Amd

It's a Noctua NH-D15S. It normally has a brown reddish/beige fan and uncovered heatsinks.

I bought a second fan to replace it and bought the heatsink covers as well.


Links for you:

Heatsink covers (there's different color styles too):

u/EzeeMunny69420 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $328.90 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $89.95 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock X570 Taichi ATX AM4 Motherboard | $269.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | Team T-Force Delta RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $76.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $64.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Toshiba P300 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $64.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card | $549.89 @ OutletPC
Case | Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Walmart
Power Supply | Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Corsair K55 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard | Purchased For $0.00
Mouse | Corsair Harpoon RGB Wired Optical Mouse | Purchased For $0.00
Custom | Sceptre 27" Curved 144Hz Gaming LED Monitor Edge-Less AMD Freesync DisplayPort HDMI, Metal Black 2019 (C275B-144RN) | Purchased For $0.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1725.58
| Mail-in rebates | -$110.00
| Total | $1615.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-10 06:25 EDT-0400 |

Seems like a pretty good PC although you could quite easily fit a 2080 or maybe even a 2080 SUPER if you were to cut back on the motherboard. Not sure how much you care about the looks but the NH-D15 supports Noctuas Chromax covers and fans so if you want, you can make the cooler look much nicer by adding 2 of these fans ( and the chromax covers ( Note that the covers are available in other colours.

u/Air-tun-91 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Some of the best experiences sons can have are putting together a project with their dad so kudos to you; he will always remember it! Things like that are priceless.

Secondly, as mentioned by others, look into the Noctua Chromax heatsink covers: they have many colour options -

I love the brown fans myself but they're not for everyone.

u/adjhfadsvhlasdhvsd · 1 pointr/buildapc

It's on Amazon.

u/RxBrad · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I got mine yesterday. The included heatsink really is a joke -- just a thick piece of aluminum foil with adhesive on it. I didn't even bother trying it.

Running the drive naked, I was getting idle temps around 45°C, and load temps in the upper 50s to near 60°C. (Mind you, I didn't spend much time testing the temps on the naked chip, so they might have settled a little higher if I tested for more than 15-20 minutes).

I bought this heatsink, which knocked about 10°C off the temperatures. Idle temps were 35 to 40°C. Load temps were in the upper 40s to near 50°C.

u/madhattergm · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I got a phison e12 drive, the Sabrent Rocket with the same controller. I ran it stock and recorded temps of 70c on load. I put on a smaller heatsink than the one you linked. This one:

After the install, and 20 mins of stress testing, I was at 50-60c, so I dropped 10-20c, for $5 dollars. Theres a youtube video of people installing it and running similar tests. Note that the thicker aluminum ones seem to trap hot air easier for some reason.

u/tylerdagod · 1 pointr/bapccanada

personally I would go with an AMD processor (2700x 3700x or 3800x) with an msi tomahawk b450mobo(great OC performance). and change your 1tb ssd to 1tb nvme (also made by crucial - be aware that using the M.2 disables 2 sata ports no matter what chipset you go to. just some food for thought.

I would also suggest avoiding the h510 (case) as its been known to be a bit of a incubator being as the front panel acts as a show piece allowing next to no air through it.
the meshify C is the best choice for cost/thermals/looks imo but thats all preferance - if youre going with the 510. set your radiator mounted to the top in "pull" configuration. (or your cpu will run hot guaranteed)

also I would get the 2060Super OR 2070 OR 2070Super over the 2080TI as the 2080ti is just a refresh 1080ti with its shader cores enabled, and wait for their real introduction of a 4k capable card (with min fps above 60 which no card can do currently in AAA games.

as the 2060super/2070(s) will handle 1440p (@60/80fps) and vr titles with ease (I picked up the 2070 on sale for $640~ after tax and shipping). and it crushes in VR (I have the RiftS) I also get 200~ FPS in gtaV on 1080p max and 160~ in ark and 400~ in LoL

Edit: (link)

also to fix "thermal" issues on m.2 drives buy this little heatsink. it comes with a thermal pad aswell

u/1liger · 1 pointr/Alienware

Yeah I'm from the UK too. I bought this one, however, it hasn't arrived yet.

This one has been recommended over at the NBR forum and apparently can fit in either slot.

u/unuomosolo · 1 pointr/sffpc

not having a ghost case (yet), but i achieved -10°C with this nvme heatsink

u/Dickelton · 1 pointr/Warframe

try dusting first this is the cheapest/easiest solution. If the problem persists then replace the paste (tons of guides online but I would recommend getting a parts tray or something before doing this as there are going to be quite a few screws).

High performance:

Best value:

Both options are non-conductive so you don't have to worry about it causing a short. If you stumble upon something known as liquid metal (popular for enthusiasts) I would not recommend it considering that stuff is mostly gallium and can cause a short.

u/JASTechnologies · 1 pointr/overclocking

I learned to OC in the late 90' ( OK, not coiled foul). In early 2000's I started using thermal diodes on CPU, RAM and GPU. This will help you see the temps and either increase heatsink and fans or reduce your OC. A good thermal paste like Thermal Grizzly, Noctua NT-H2 or Artic MX-4. Which one you should use depends on surface. Some will damage aluminium, some have enough metal particals that can short your circuits if slopped over.

I Hope this helps you.

u/dkb_wow · 1 pointr/pcgaming

I personally use Arctic MX-4 on my CPU and GPU's. Here's an Amazon link:

u/Rebeleader21 · 1 pointr/blursedimages

My mom accused me of using heroine once... turns out she just found my thermal paste...

u/LoneKrafayis · 1 pointr/buildapc

I expect you could add new thermal paste and bring your speed up to like-new on the i5-7400

If you are still feeling like your computer is slow, buy a new SSD (they have gotten faster in recent years)

PCPartPicker Part List

Storage | *Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $107.50 @ Walmart
| Total | $107.50

...and then reinstall Windows 10 from a 8+ GB USB

u/WrenchViking · 1 pointr/Amd

Ok, well, lesson learned for the future: Always keep the boxes or at least the things that were in the boxes until you no longer own the hardware. I personally toss everything into the motherboard box or one of the larger boxes, like the GPU or PSU box.

Anyways, here you go:

u/Duarian · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Not sure if this helps or not..but here is an after market on Amazon. I know you mentioned not having the threads so this may not help at all, sorry if that's the case.

PartsCollection AM4 Retention Bracket & AM4 Back Plate (for AM4's Heat Sink Cooling Fan Mounting)

u/ColeMrtz21 · 1 pointr/buildapc

PartsCollection AM4 Retention Bracket & AM4 Back Plate (for AM4's Heat Sink Cooling Fan Mounting)

I believe this is what you’re looking for, my recollection was for Intel CPUs

u/vendetta0010 · 1 pointr/sffpc

I don't want to wait so I'm gonna buy one

Is this compatible?

Tons of thanks!

u/71aaf6bfe05f94b6c449 · 1 pointr/buildapc

go with 2700x instead of the 1900x. if you have a use case for high core count then i recommend the 2950x. but you probably don't need it because the 2700x is awesome. 2700x also has 8 cores like the 1900x but you can go am4 rather than tr4 and save money on your motherboard. you'll also have a lesser power draw and a more compact case. 850W seems more than enough i think you can downsize to 650W. i like to spend a little more on the power supply. by going 2700x i would spend some of the money saved on a higher rated power supply. also if you switch to 2700x the stock cooler is pretty based so you can save money by using it. for memory i suggest using samsung b-die it had better success with 1st gen ryzen.

here's a parts list for a decent 2700x build:

that prices out around $1050. it does not price in a graphics card, for which the Sapphire Vega 56 card you listed is already a great pick. i think those go for around $300 today. if you can re-use your current case and already have thermal paste you can decrease the price by about $150. assuming you can get a Sapphire Vega 56 for around $300 this build prices out $1200 total.

u/seakos23 · 1 pointr/sffpc

My apologies, I got mixed up with the thermal pad I’m using on my m.2 ssd.

Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative To Thermal Paste/Grease (40 X 40mm)

And then I am using the SilverStone thermal pad for my 970 evo since the m.2 is smushed up against the spine of the case and can’t breathe.

u/resultachieved · 1 pointr/Amd

Stupid Question on 2600X and 2700X.

As I understand it (src1, src2) the X varieties of these CPUS will attempt to overclock themselves by evaluating run time conditions, using XFR2 and PB2. PBO2 is additionally available but will void the warranty.


Educate me if the above is incorrect.



  • Do we (r/AMD community) have data on CPU coolers and how they influence X chip performance including the included Wraith Spire/Prism?
  • Based on this data or general knowledge does r/AMD feel after market coolers for X models are worth the money relative the the performance gain they may bring? I will do the calculations and share back based on informal recommendations.
  • How much extra Power in Watts is consumed by the CPU when enabling a PBO scenario v not default? One could use a ~$0.08USD/KWh model for energy cost calculation of PBO overclock per year.
  • Are there motherboard characteristics/motherboard settings I should be aware of beyond the PWM setup if I want to attempt a PBO overclock of an X chip?


    Right now the 2600X is within $20 dollars of the 2600 - so money can be spent on a separate air cooler ($10-$30) if there is some reasonable price/performance of the cooler with or without PBO. Where as the 2700X ($299) even with a recent coupon ($270) is $50 more than the 2700 ($220) which is $40 more than the 2600X ($180). The cost of the 2700X would seem to be out of line, as it essentially better binned 2600X . Again correct me about this - as it seems the 2600 line is just a 2700 with a disabled core.


    Also I am seriously thinking about a 40x40 IC thermal Pad for $13 or a 38x38 TG Carbonaut pad if someone knows where they can be bought in the US market, which would come out of the cooler budget above. Convenience of not having to reapply thermal paste 24-36 months from now, and guarantee of uniformity of heat transfer would seem to justify the pad as an extra vs bundled pastes if any.
u/RadicalGuevarist · 1 pointr/buildapc

You could try graphite pads or liquid metal instead of traditional paste. They have a higher conductivity, and thus spreads more heat. If it's the application process that has you worrying I'd go with the simple to install graphite pad.

u/OG_PANDA_KING · 1 pointr/Louqe

Read up on the proper application method for the paste. I believe you need to spread a thin layer throughout.

u/mr_klikbait · 1 pointr/PhantomForces

saw this on linus tech tips. its like a 1 degree difference from competitive Thermal pastes like IC diamond and its only 20 dollars USD rounded ($19.99). might help?

u/armeg · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hey there, gonna try turning this off.

Also, this is the graphite pad I'm using:

It's the one that Linus uses in his video about them so I figured it was fine to go with since he said it was decent.

u/Rats_OffToYa · 1 pointr/playblackdesert

I still have an original PS4, but did it according to a PS4 Pro paste replacement youtube video.

Only difference is used paste I already had, Arctic Silver 5, and Innovative Cooling pads (, cut to size of each memory spot.

u/mrfinancecracker · 1 pointr/thinkpad

So I ordered

thermal pad, and seems to have a really good reviews, would it be better to use that pad for the processor as well instead of the paste?

u/Tennougin · 1 pointr/Amd

I would like to try it on my vega 56 card but i have found its measurements are: - 12.5×109 486 mm2
40x40 pads

u/danielee0707 · 1 pointr/Dell

Also, if you don't want to use thermal paste, try graphite thermal pads. They are easier to apply. BE CAREFUL though because they are conductive.

u/Abdrouf4995 · 1 pointr/sffpc

You can try that Graphite thermal pads, aren't they a bit thicker? Would this help? And they should be only one or two degrees worse than past from what i saw online

Innovation Cooling LLC IC Graphite Thermal Pad (30 X 30 mm) ...

u/Pairan_Emissary · 1 pointr/Amd

That's pretty sweet!

On a related note, has anyone tried a graphite pad with 7nm Ryzen yet?

Just curious as to what the results were. The reviews of this graphite pad speak highly of the product.

Edit: Ahhh, we DO have a reddit thread for that!

Nothing to see here. Move along!

u/chestermcbadass · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you haven't looked into it, there is a graphite thermal cooling pad that is easy to install and remove. You can get them for about $10 on Amazon. They get good results without the mess and hassle of paste.

Edit: Here's the link

u/SolidBladez · 1 pointr/buildapc

Most people don't need liquid metal TIM but I'd suggest Arctic MX-2/MX-4 due to their ease of application and overall thermal conductivity. There are graphite pads available on Amazon or Aliexpress which are even easier to apply (no cleanup) and have decent thermal properties.

u/natehax · 1 pointr/MoneroMining

If its a reference model, your level of risk is going to equal the reward of repasting / reseating the fans. Powercolor, in particular, is guilty of not always having molded dies, which sits a portion of the die lower than the rest--meaning you need MUCH more thermal paste, if you go that route.


If its a can go the Morpheus 2 mod route, and get a few static pressure fans to drastically drop the temps. That's gonna cost you, the aftermarket cooler/etc isn't cheap.


For thermal pads--IC Graphite is some of the best on the market, but its conductive, so you have to be SUPER careful how you cut it to make sure it fits perfectly. Works amazingly well though:


With all of this--your level of investment / work is going to really equate to what you get out of it. These things are probably better geared to overclockers or gamers, but hell--the community recognizes it works really well for a reason.

u/littlegeddy · 1 pointr/xboxone

I have a graphite thermal pad sitting in my office. Been wondering if I should give that a try that on my X. My Scorpio edition runs quiet except for RDR2 :) The graphite pad intrigues me because it will never go bad or need replacing, assuming it does a good job???

u/kenzer161 · 1 pointr/PS4
u/Dibrom · 1 pointr/HomeServer

CPU upgrades are more complicated then it seems. If you buy a Ryzen 3000 now and say 2-3 years down the line you want to upgrade it's going to be a little hard. First the new AMD cpus aren't going to work on your existing board (AM4 is on it's last gen right now). So unless you can find a used higher SKU Ryzen 3, you're going to need to update your mobo as well. Maybe even RAM? That's a whole system upgrade there. If you plan to upgrade you're going to need to upgrade fairly often and quickly to expect to be able to reuse parts.

If you're just talking about the act of building a computer, there are lost of great guides on YouTube and it's not as hard as it would seem.

If you don't want to deal with paste I highly recommenced thermal pads like: OR
It's going to preform close to the best thermal paste but saves so much headache.

x570 has great features but you're never going to use them in a server (pci-e 4.0, overclocking features). But the same really goes for an x470 board as well (Multi-gpu. I say save money on a B450 board.

Go over to r/buildapc for more advice.

u/nukezzz · 1 pointr/gpdwin

I found Graphite Thermal Pad with 30W/mk , I hope it will help me. Also, I will delete all stickers from SSD.

u/MrMcGibblets86 · 1 pointr/Alienware

It's not too difficult, but now that I see several people recommending this, I might stop the whole repasting thing:

u/Whokam · 1 pointr/Alienware
u/The_Chosen_One_NL · 1 pointr/amazon

Any other options to have something USA only shipped to Europe?

Basicly I wanted to buy . No shipping to The Netherlands, not available at or .de etc.

There is ofcourse something like; available which forward mail basicly but that costs another $15-25.

I really love the idea of the technology so since I haven't ordered/build my pc yet (soon!) I though I can always ask. :)

u/Punkster812 · 1 pointr/xboxone

Could have been. I followed the directions to the T and made sure I cut it to the right size so it wasn't touch the board. I used these ones which have great reviews:, and I had great results with normal thermal paste when I put it back together. I have built my on PCs for over 17 years and am not exactly uncomfortable doing this kind of repairs.


Now that I look at the page, looks like someone else tried with the same product and got the same results. When I attempted it, I couldn't find much when it came to modern consoles. Here is a review of the same product:, so I'd recommend another brand maybe if you wanted to try it.

u/endmysufferingxX · 1 pointr/buildapc

you realize shipping you a 4g object is going to cost at least 11USD regardless of what shipping service I use.

Just spend the 7 bucks on some entry level paste

u/Broadbanned · 1 pointr/buildapc

The stock cooler should be just fine if you don't plan to overclock. The stock cooler comes with pre-applied Cooler Master thermal paste, but it's always good to have some in case you need to reseat the cooler or change to an aftermarket one, I'd recommend Arctic MX-4 2019 Edition (8-year paste). The only change I'd do is to a 512GB NVMe SSD with 512MB cache for less.

u/dillygraf · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

ARCTIC MX-4 2019 Edition - Thermal Compound Paste - Carbon Based High Performance - Heatsink Paste - Thermal Compound CPU for All Coolers, Thermal Interface Material - High Durability - 4 Grams

u/WATCH_DOGS_SUCKS · 1 pointr/simracing

No problem, glad to help!

> I think I'm going to grab a USB-C to HDMI cable so I can hook my MacBook up to the TV

Quick thing, consider getting a Thunderbolt 3 hub, like this one, for example. These little devices allow you to get the most out of your MacBook's Thunderbolt ports buy expanding them to several supported ports, whilst still including at least one full-bandwidth Thunderbolt 3 port. this way, instead of having to get specific USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 compatible wires or adapters, you could just natively connect whatever wires you have to a hub. There's plenty of options for your to choose from, some of which focus on multi-screen output, some of which focus on data transfer, and some that feature a general-user port selection.

> Do you just play on your MacBook sometimes? [...] What games do you mainly play on MacBook with your wheel?

Personally, I pretty much only play PC exclusives on my Mac. I do play Euro Truck Simulator 2 on my MacBook, but unfortunately, The Thrustmaster T80 and T300 wheels I have aren't compatible with macOS or Linux, so I just use a PS3 controller.

However, I can confirm that the G29 [is compatible with macOS and ETS2](, along with other titles on Mac.

> Do you find it gets too hot?

It used to, but not anymore.

This may be a bit more advanced, but you can manage your system's thermal performance. Step one would be to get a fan controller app, such at TG Pro, which is what I use. The main issue with thermal performance with Macs is that Apple tries to keep the fan speed as low as possible, to keep the system as quiet as possible... even to a fault. A fan controller app will let you set your notebook's fan speeds with your own custom settings, so whilst it may definitely get louder, you won't have to worry about it burning from the inside out, or at least not worry about thermal throttling.

Step 2, if you so dare, would be to replace the thermal paste in your MacBook. Apple's stock thermal paste is relatively weak at transferring heat (as a trade off for lasting longer), so you may want to consider replacing it with aftermarket, high-quality paste, such as Artic MX-4. High-quality doesn't mean expensive in this case, as a tube of good paste can have at least 10 uses' worth for 3euro - 10euro.

However, keep in mind that taking apart a 2013 and up MacBook isn't easy, and it can technically void your Apple warranty. But if you do decide to undergo the task, it'll unlock your system's full potential. I've done both of these, and now my system never goes above 90°C under full-load.

> Unrelated side note: The buyers guide and support you provide in this community is outstanding and I'd love to support you by purchasing on Amazon through your affiliate link, if that's okay?

Oh, we don't use affiliate links. All of the Buyer's Guide links are standard URLs, the same as anyone else would get. All of the work I put into the subreddit is unpaid.

I've thought about requesting affiliate links a few times so I could fund community events, but I worry about the conflict of interest, especially for when we get new moderators. I really appreciate the thought, though!


^(I'd totally appreciate a gift card donation, though :P)

u/clupean · 1 pointr/buildapc

Clean the video card: remove the gpu cooler and clear all the dust, clean the thermal compound with alcohol and apply new paste. If it still doesn't work, you can buy a 3rd party gpu cooler.

Thermal paste:
GPU cooler:

u/superjx10 · 0 pointsr/hardwareswap

1 Quiet edition SP120 fan costs 16.99 at newegg and 10.00 at amazon. Both of those prices are plus tax and shipping. On both websites I mentioned, the dual pack version of them are worth $26.54 (amazon , newegg)

I am selling the cooler and it's stock fans for $20 off the original price of the cooler minus the thermal paste. Plus, your saving $6 by buying the quiet edition fans (which i paid $30 new for) along with the cooler.

some $6 thermal paste

u/feanor512 · 0 pointsr/Amd

Gelid GC-Extreme is way better than MX4.

u/motodoto · 0 pointsr/ffxiv

Any temperature and intel processor reaches that would cause damage to it will force the PC to shut-off. What temps are you seeing? Use core temp.

If you aren't afraid to do it, opening up the surface pro, blowing it out with a dust can or Metro Data Vacuum, and then reapplying high-end thermal paste to the GPU and CPU heatsinks, will probably help a lot.

u/ctjameson · 0 pointsr/techsupportgore
u/SpaceOgresWithLasers · 0 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

here are the system requirements. Idk why you would be having problems unless you have resources allocated to something else.

One of the only times I’ve ever drank as an adult, I came home and in my drunken stupor I somehow allocated nearly all my CPU / GPU processing power to SETI at home. I tried to load Steam the next day and it kept crashing. So I opened up HWMonitor and then tried opening Steam only to watch my core temps skyrocket before crashing. When I rebooted the PC, I opened task manager to see [email protected] using nearly every bit of processing power I had.

Also I’m going to go ahead and recommend this Arctic Silver thermal paste.

u/Darkasf · 0 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Just get some of this and stick it back on

u/cooldude_ · 0 pointsr/overclocking

Don't even bother overclocking an i7-8700k without a delid. It's just not worth it. 1.315v with 97 Celsius is actually above average for 1.315v. You would see temp drops to almost 25 Celsius probably if you delidded (I managed to drop 30 Celsius!!) Delidding is easy if you have the right tool.

u/chubby464 · 0 pointsr/sffpc

Has anyone ever tried these?
no need for thermal paste and uses a reusable pad instead

u/1crazypotato · 0 pointsr/london

Arctic MX-4 2019 Edition - Thermal Compound Paste For Coolers | Heat Sink Paste | Composed of Carbon Micro-particles | Easy to Apply | High Durability - 4 Grams

u/maxscheske · -1 pointsr/RetroPie

If you don't want a new PC you can try overclocking your pi. I'd recommend buying heatsinks here: and there's a guide for it here: If you do this you should get better performance.

u/He_Ma_Vi · -2 pointsr/Amd

Take a nice step back and review what you're saying and what everyone else is saying. It's intolerable conversing with people who seem to be in their own bubble, not reading what others say, and responding as though things that aren't there are there.

Liquid metal is frequently referred to as a thermal paste^1 ^2 ^3, while thermal pads are never, ever, ever referred to as thermal pastes (^(except maybe in clickbait YT titles)). So how is bringing up thermal pads--for god knows what reason--prudent but bringing up liquid metal is somehow "irrelevant"?