(Part 2) Best heatsinks according to redditors
We found 1,353 Reddit comments discussing the best heatsinks. We ranked the 288 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
The Thermalright TS140BW performs better, is quieter, and is less ugly. It's also $50 normally.
Might want to get some new thermal pads too. I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJQDYA/ and they work great.
I had replaced the paste on the chip and it dropped temps there quite a bit, but I was having random crashes unless fans were all the way up. Changing the thermal pads on the VRMs fixed that. I forgot to take before temps but afterwards VRMs stay within 2-3 degrees Celsius of the core temps. I ran Furmark at 12k resolution and VRMs didn't exceed 82 degrees C when core was at 80.
Use the link below, I did. Buy this and use coffee filters to remove the paste. Don't use anything else since cotton, paper towels etc will leave lint.
https://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-Thermal-Compound-Remover-Purifier/dp/B001JYQ9TM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=thermal+paste+remover&qid=1559302378&s=gateway&sprefix=thermal+paste&sr=8-5
Best of luck.
Not to be a dick but the Wraith Prism is $49 off of Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Wraith-Cooler-Processor-AM4-Connector/dp/B07GKRR5WR
The heatsink on these is garbage. Either buy a cheap one on Amazon like this or don't bother with any at all. The adhesive they use is almost permanent. It took me 15+ mins of scrubbing even with 91% alcohol to remove the stock heatsink. Temps with stock heatsink were 55c+ at idle and 75c+ under load. With new heatsink they are 35c at idle and 50c-55c under load.
This heatsink: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZRDRX8M/
With this fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA/
I would recommend reseating the HSF to see if that fixes the issue.
When you do, be sure to replace the stock TIM with something like this and report back with results (it might help others that have the same issue).
If that doesn't fix the issue, get an aftermarket HSF that will fit into your chassis. Something affordable like the Cryorig H5 or H7 should do quite well.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-140-BW-Rev-TY-147A/dp/B012JVGKCY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462140932&sr=8-1&keywords=thermalright+true+spirit+140
Had the same issue once. If you are unable to find one here you can get one on ebay or if you have prime you can have it in a couple days from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Ecowsera-Bracket-Version-Mounting-Distance/dp/B071KB9NM3/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz6PnBRCPARIsANOtCw00bfryn_LjgF8mGZJjkfGKH6Qw8gaZ3ehDa9urwiXXr1_kiG4bHsoaArGdEALw_wcB&hvadid=323086229962&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9017211&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14586999721410765343&hvtargid=aud-646675774026%3Akwd-445263826979&hydadcr=24330_11045424&keywords=am4+back+plate&qid=1558822588&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Can't tell for sure if you're kidding, but just to be safe this is what I'm giving away.
Thermalright True Spirit 140
or
Thermalright HR-02 Macho
Best cooling performance AND noise performance under $60.
The TS140 performs negligibly better, but it is taller so it doesn't fit in that many cases (HAF 912 is okay).
EDIT: Honorable mention: NZXT Havik 140. Slightly better cooling than the above two (maybe 2-3 degrees celsius at best), but a bit louder (still very quiet compared to most coolers).
My local prices for a used mini-fridge on craigslist started at $50. I don't remember what I paid for the cooler, but I am pretty sure it rivals that. I really wanted to go the fridge route, but I also wanted to maximize space. You'd be hard pressed to fit the same amount of fermentors in a mini-fridge with the compressor taking up space.
If you really want to go automated, and I still may do this with the cooler, install a Peltier cooler. This is the tech that car fridges use. The device generates cold on one side and heat on the other. You would need a power supply, a heat sink, and a 12v thermostat. The more heat you whisk away from a peltier (with heat sink) the colder they get. They will actually form ice crystals. They draw a lot of amps so you'll need a good power supply.
Peltier Device: http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-TEC1-12706-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Heat/dp/B00E4GY0FC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426189756&sr=8-1&keywords=peltier
12v Thermostat: http://www.amazon.com/Okeler-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Fahrenheit/dp/B00KA42WNY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1426189932&sr=8-8&keywords=12v+thermostat
*Power Supply: http://www.amazon.com/E-Goal-Switch-Supply-Driver-Display/dp/B007C055BK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426190001&sr=8-2&keywords=10a+12v+power+supply
Just cut a hole in the back of your cooler with a jigsaw, glue in an aluminum plate on the inner surface of the cooler to cover the hole. Affix peltier with heatsink, and wire up. Viola.
Hi everyone,
I wanted to share my build in the M1. I knew I wanted to do a build in this case the moment I saw it. I fell in love with the potential to have power, low noise, and portability in one case. I spent a ton of time researching to find the best way to achieve my goal. I ended up settling with a be quiet! Dark Rock TF as my cooler for the 4790k and an Arctic Accelero III on my 1070. As you can see in the pictures, the Dark Rock TF is mounted with the large heatpipes facing the PSU, meaning that I was also able to fit a Noctua NF-A15 on the right side of the side bracket (not pictured). I stress tested with x264 and with the 4790k at 4.5GHz (1.25v) and 4.6GHz (1.29v). The temperatures were pretty hot, 83 degrees and 88 degrees Celsius respectively. These are still 'safe' but hotter than I wanted. I ended up de-lidding my CPU and put Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra between the dye and the IHS and NT-H1 between the IHS and Dark Rock TF. This dropped the stress test temepratures to 70 and 75 degrees, a 13 degree drop! I'm controlling fan speeds with Speedfan and both fans hit max RPM at 65 degrees. For the TF's fans that's 1350 RPM (still pretty quiet) and I'm using the low noise adapter for the A15 which makes it max at 900 RPM.
My 1070 is an EVGA Gaming ACX 3.0. I bought this stock-clock version over the SC by mistake (whoops..). The stock cooler was too loud for me, so I got the Arctic Accelero III. I chose the III over the IV because it comes with mini heatsinks for the 1070's VRMs and VRAM. The III comes with thermal adhesive (glue) for said heatsinks but I was not a fan of this more permanent application (plus it was completely hardened when I got it). So I bought some thermal tape. Works great.
I'm using NF-F12s in an exhaust confgiuration under the Accelero's heatsink. The fan curve on the GPU is very passive. I overclocked the 1070 core clock to +185 and memory clock to +450 on stock voltage (max power limit). I tried running the fans as intake for all positive pressure inside the case which resulted in a temperature of 66 degrees in Unigine Heaven. As exhaust, the temperature dropped to 61 degrees.
So, some more numbers for you. To get an idea of max temps on both CPU and GPU, I ran Heaven and x264 at the same time. The GPU was overclocked to +185 core and +450 memory on both tests. CPU was tested on both 4.5GHz (1.25v) and 4.6GHz(1.28v).
CPU 4.5GHZ: 74 degrees max
GPU: 61 degrees max
CPU 4.6GHz: 79 degrees max
GPU: 61 degrees max
Also, because the GPU temps were so low, it still boosted to above 2000mhz thanks to Nvidia GPU Boost! As you can see, the increase in CPU voltage and temps didn't affect the GPU at all.
I also installed a custom power switch. I bought this vandal switch and this cable to rig it up which worked, but the spade style connectors on the cable didn't secure very well and would end up getting lose and touch one another and turning off the PC. I ended up cutting them off and soldering the wire to the switch.
After all this I can say that I'm finally happy with my build! Thanks for reading!
And sorry for the cable mess! I'll clean it up... sometime...
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $280.00
CPU Cooler | be quiet! DARK ROCK TF 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler | Purchased For $75.00
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | Purchased For $100.00
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $45.00
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $80.00
Storage | Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $105.00
Storage | Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $105.00
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB ACX 3.0 Video Card | $360.00
Power Supply | Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply | Purchased For $119.99
Case Fan | Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $18.00
Case Fan | Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $18.00
Case Fan | Noctua NF-A15 PWM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $20.00
Other| NCASE M1| Purchased For $185.00
Other| Arctic Accelero III| $40.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1550.99
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-20 16:41 EST-0500 |
Probably FujiPoly Extremes.
Sli GTX560ti's and CPU OC and OV'd you need 740W. So PSU is good.
You might want to consider this rather than the H60, it runs cooler and quieter...
You don't need 16gb of ram. You'll never use that much on this build. 8gb is probably excessive (but recommended)...
You really can't go wrong with any of these or these cases. They all have good airflow and cable management. I'd probably go for the Source 210 Elite, Tempest 210, or HAF 912 and put the rest of my money into a better heatsink or nicer case fans.
For the heatsink, I'd recommend one of these and this Thermalright if you're looking for cheap and good. The Xigmatek, Gelid, and Zalman are the quietest of the bunch and perform as well as the Hyper 212 while being cheaper. The A70 is the clear performance winner, especially for its price, but is louder. The Thermalright is the best generalist of the bunch, performing well an pretty quiet, but also being the most expensive. If you're willing to spend a little more these or the Thermalright True Spirit 140 and HR-02 Macho are better and quiet. Personally, I'd pick up the Prolimatech panther or Thermalright True Spirit 140 since they're quiet and are great cool overclocking heatsinks.
Lastly, if you want to add more case fans, I highly recommend Cougar fans. I have some and they're great. They have a high CFM and static pressure and aren't too loud. They have rubber pads on the feet, so they really don't make any vibration noise. The only noise you hear from them is the air rushing. Noctua, Thermalright, Prolimatech, and a few others are also highly regarded fans.
Mmm, there's a few differences, and a few things to watch out for. In terms of cooing performance, Air Coolers perform just as well as AOIs until you get to the 240/280/360mm range. However, most AOIs come with noisy fans, so you end up with more noise or more expense (replacing stock fans can make a big difference on both Air and AOIs). Some people really like AOIs because of how it clears up the case and with good fans the can beat Air Coolers, but others don't like the pump noise that can come with AOIs or the very, very small risk that something goes bad. On the other hand, the better Air Coolers are a big chunk of metal, which some people don't like hanging off their motherboard.
Personally, I use a Noctua D15, have my case on it's side to avoid the false fear that anything bad will happen by hanging an air cooler on my motherboard. I cognitively know nothing bad will happen, but there's no one else in my office, and I'll do what I please. Were I to do it again, I'd get the Thermaltake True Spirit. This review shows that it's damn quiet for what it does, and Amazon has it for only $50. Whatever my next build is, unless I'm doing a full custom loop, this is my go to cooler - excellent price, excellent performance, and quite possibly the best value. It's a solid step up from the Hyper 212 (which handles most chips to 4.2-4.4 no problem), but doesn't cost 3x as much like a used Noctua D15 does.
Hi folks. Do not use thermal paste for this one or any phone. Thermal paste has a different thermal and mechanical use. Do not ever fill a gap with thermal paste, do not ever sandwich shim+thermal paste+thermal pad. Use only thermal paste if the gap is 0.5mm or less. Why phone manufactures use thermal pad instead of thermal paste? ' Cause is not messy, easy to apply, and you just has to replace the pad. I wish the big oem phone makers stop using shitty thermal pad but is not gonna happen anytime soon. You should buy high quality thermal pad with a good thermal conductivity, and remember to repad (please stop repasting, there is not thermal paste in a phone!) from time to time.
​
I have personally fix my LG G3, LG G4 and LG V10, soon LG V20 with this one from Fujipoly. Quiet good actually.
https://www.amazon.com/Fujipoly-mod-smart-Extreme-Thermal-x/dp/B00ZSJQDYA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541342604&sr=1-3&keywords=fujipoly
​
edit #1: BTW, nice job, but too much paste. :P
edit #2: Another tip, usually we have an square on the phone body, if you use thermal pad, you should cut it smaller, like 5mm or more. The thermal pad need space to compress and expand in order to work well.
I would get this, I actually just ordered a roll for mine.
If you really want to tilt the scales from redneck to engineer. I would suggest making a system that uses peltier cooling. But then again you would need heatsinks and a different design for it to work properly. I imagine it would reach the point where simply finding a way to redneck engineer a window AC unit would be cheaper and more effective.
If you intend to use a 'clip on' style cooler, this should work.
https://www.amazon.com/mounting-Bracket-Socket-Heatsink-1-Pack/dp/B07L1Q3XDS/
Probably Amazon. Prices vary depending on the thickness of the pad. 1mm for $28 or 0.5mm for $22.
Do note that the 17 W/Mk is only available on the more expensive FujiPoly Ultra Extreme. Non-ultra is only 11 W/Mk.
Look great. I wonder how the Ramsinks I've been using compare.
I got 10c difference up to 20c at full load.
http://i.imgur.com/pVoJTFs.png
If you want to silence your xu4, [this chipset heatsink from amazon](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZRDRX8M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
) fits perfectly.
My xu4 with it: http://imgur.com/HejVtkY
Yeah, did a bit of digging and I found something that looks like it may work, namely this guy
Not a whole lot of room back there but it may be skinny enough.
ALRIGHT! Sorry for just getting back to you I've been trying to reply and mobile and kept accidentally deleting what i typed while trying to format my response. So had to move to the Laptop.
Anyways when I say you should repaste I'm referring to the action of removing the heatsink from the CPU and GPU clearing the provided "thermal paste/grease" (thermal paste or grease depending to who you talk to is a thermally conductive paste that is meant to be between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink to fill the airgap and conduct heat to the sink better.) from both and applying new paste. Here is also a video guide on how to apply thermal paste it doesn't pertain specifically to your laptop but gives you a good idea on how its done.
Now when it comes to your device I took the liberty of looking up the service manual and found a video guide on how to disassemble down the the motherboard here. If you've never done anything like this before it can be a little daunting, but if you have a friend with some experience it shouldn't be more than a few hours project and the outcome should be considerably better than before.
If you are going to go this route there are a few thermal pastes that everyone recommends and everyone has their own opinions but as I stated before any of these will be better than what you originally had so buy whatever fits your budget.
Artic Silver 5
IC-Diamond
Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Prolimatech PK-3
There are plenty of others but any of these will do you good, with a major recommendation to the Silver 5 due to bang for the buck.
After all that and you decide that maybe you don't want to do a repaste (and even if you did repaste I'm still recommending this) you are going to want to get a laptop cooling pad. The reason is due to the nature of laptops and how compact they are sometimes depending on the surface they are laid on they do not get enough air to cool properly, dropping your performance into the shitter. I have a similarly spec'd laptop to yours (Lenovo Y50 4700hq and 860m) and I use the Notepal XSlim its not the best but it does the job and for $18 I can't complain. There are others but buy what feels right to you.
Sorry for the long winded post I hope this helps you some, and I hope you can get your laptop performance back as you have a more than capable laptop. Let me know if you need anything else!
I second /u/GoGoGadgetReddit
I recently replaced the thermal compound on my build (replaced the stock compound on my liquid cooler, wasn't doing very well) and this stuff was great (cleaner and purifier): https://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-Thermal-Compound-Remover-Purifier/dp/B001JYQ9TM
I'm sure others can offer suggestions on their favorite, but the thermal compound I used was https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087X73FC
Just buy something like this. It's not the easiest to install but it gets the job done. I have my m.2 on the back of my asrock in a case that has no airflow and this dropped it roughly ~20°c.
There are plenty others if you don't like the look but it's pretty low profile and easy to install.
I doubt the Wraith Stealth is quite up to the task, I think you're better off grabbing a kit like this https://www.amazon.com/mounting-Bracket-Socket-Heatsink-1-Pack/dp/B07L1Q3XDS/
As long as the pump can mount with the G10, its all good. As for the shim, nevermind about that, I meant VRM heatsinks which is something like this https://smile.amazon.com/Enzotech-BMR-C1-LE-Memory-Ramsink-Black/dp/B00P6Z2BQU/ref=pd_lpo_147_tr_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2XY2HN09KREQF8ZSSQ6Y
Thanks!
CPU/RAM/GPU:
AMD FX-6350 (includes AES support for TrueCrypt), 8GB RAM, and an AMD R9 270x. You can get these three components for ~360€ on Amazon.de
RAID 5:
It requires at least three hard drives and I wouldn't recommend using anything other than RAID 0 and/or 1 without a self-powered dedicated RAID card. These cards are expensive and do not fit into your budget.
The next best option is to configure a RAID 0 with two 2TB hard drives and if you think your data is important enough to use TrueCrypt, add a 4TB external backup: ~280€
Quiet components:
SSD: Intel 730 240GB
PSU maker from Germany: be quiet! - 630W modular (16.4 to 25.1 dBA)
CPU cooler from Austria: Noctua - NH-U12P SE2 (19.8dBA)
Computer case from Germany : Nanoxia - Deep Silence 2.
Hard drive silencer from Germany: Silentmaxx
AMD video card fan from Switzerland: Icy Vision.
Is there a reason you used four of them? I ordered these off Amazon, with >70 watts it should have enough power to heat a small box.
Also OP, I've got the same idea as you, reason I went for thermoelectric is the opportunity for hot+cold in one package. I plan to put the whole thing in a stryofoam cooler, and hook up a micro-controller to fans which blow over each side of the plate. I'm excited to see if it works out, should be a very economical fermenter.
I'm switching to a Noctua U12p
Make sure you have an anti static wrist strap and/or static mat. Very important. You need thermal paste for your processor, check out this which helps with the inevitable mess that usually comes with working with it the first few times. I suggest testing your components out through out the build. Make sure your PSU runs, then once you get that in and mobo/with processor installed, make sure lights come on. If you have things that are DOA (ha, /u/dedonarrival) then you will need to RMA those, this does happen sometimes, unfortunately.
These are a few tips I can give to someone starting out. I don't know what your level of knowledge on building is. It is important to make sure you get a decent PSU so don't try to skimp out on that. Cable management inside of the tower is important, be mindful of any cables falling next to fans on the PSU, hdd, graphics card, whatever else you got going on.
Liquid cooling is the shiznit but may be complicated for a noobie. /u/theevillightbulb knows all about that shit.
AM4 mounting bracket.
The socket is universal, so it should fit any board. Comes with a backplate too, but you can continue using the backplate that came with your board as it's probably nicer.
i know im 5 months late.
but amazon has it
Enokay 8 Pieces Cooling Copper Heatsink for Raspberry Pi VGA RAM Cooling Heatsinks Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014KKY3KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qkngzbB7Q1HDH
Got those. And they fit perfectly on my Rx 480 chips.
Hopefully that, or similar, works for .ca
Air. Always air. When 99% of people say liquid, they mean garbage like the 'corsair hyper shit'. No. Just no. One is always better off with air unless one actually builds a custom loop that cools a full cover gpu water block and more. What if the pump fails on your corsair hypwr super-one - million plastic liquid cooler? What about the fact that you can't service it and it's meant for the dump?
If you have the dough get noctua. Single tower is fine for you but get dual tower dh14/15 if you can afford it. I Think the one of their nicest ones for the money is the single tower dual fan unit thst comes with dual 92mm fans. Thst is not as quiet as the units with bigger fans but u save a chunk of change and it's quite nice.
http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-CPU-Cooler-NH-U12P-SE2/dp/B002TG3K14
thermalright macho direct
here is a review That has the macho beating even Top AIOs at 4.5 ghz on a 4770k
another review putting it slightly behind the nh-d15 and this one again has it right behind the Nh-d15 and beating the cryorig r1.
Nope, this one Innovation Cooling Graphite... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CK9SHZG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Although those you got are recommended, but I got these SIXQJZML 30Pcs 20x20x1mm Soft... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074K4CKG1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And used a pea size of this ( in the middle) to hold the Graphite in place. ARCTIC MX-4 - Thermal Compound... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0795DP124?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The Graphite though you must cut to size as well as the conductivity pads to replace the old ones if needed. A Sharp blade/scissors helps. Good luck! Works wonders.
Here. I just found it but its 70 USD
http://overclocking.guide/increase-the-nvidia-power-limit-all-cards/3/
Start with a shunt mod to massively boost the power limit. Generally you want to add another identical resistor to halve the resistance at each point.
Then you need to beef up the cooling.
https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Kraken-RL-KRG10-B1-Bracket-Black/dp/B00ITTFO8M
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Quiet-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B009VV56TY
https://www.amazon.com/Enokay-Cooling-Heatsink-Raspberry-Heatsinks/dp/B014KKY3KI
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina-Thermal-Adhesive-5g/dp/B0009IQ1BU
First two items are for the handling the core cooling, second two are for the VRM's.
Enokay 8 Pieces Cooling Copper Heatsink for Raspberry Pi VGA RAM Cooling Heatsinks Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014KKY3KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_XN8B9Nfs1I38i
There are better ones but I was being cheap.
vrams
vrms
Here you go:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | £167.00 @ Scan.co.uk
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100 92.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | £82.92 @ Scan.co.uk
Motherboard | ASRock Z68 Extreme4 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | £102.97 @ Amazon UK
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £29.99 @ Scan.co.uk
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £79.74 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card | £328.40 @ Scan.co.uk
Case | Corsair 650D ATX Mid Tower Case | £138.98 @ Dabs
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | £67.66 @ Amazon UK
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | £997.66
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-08-12 15:30 BST+0100 |
Two more things:
Edit: Found it on Scan. It's about the same price. I guess it's up to your preference. (Seasonic for better ripple controll, Bequiet! for better efficiency rating) http://www.scan.co.uk/products/500w-be-quiet-straight-power-e9-bn192-931-eff-80-plus-gold-crossfire-eps-12v-quiet-fan-atx-v23-psu
It's really cheap and evaporates quickly without leaving residue. Although I suppose using these would ultimately be the best. This stuff will clean and purify the shame off of drag queen.
This one here? http://www.amazon.com/Prolimatech-PK-3-Aluminium-Compound-5g/dp/B008M5157W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1377892394&sr=8-2&keywords=Prolimatech
>For a CPU...
Does this mean you wouldn't use it on a GPU?
https://www.amazon.com/COOLOOdirect-20x20x1mm-Silicone-Conductive-Northbridge/dp/B074K4CKG1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527081227&sr=8-1&keywords=memory+chip+thermal+pad
and this thermal paste is expensive, but really good
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527081312&sr=1-2&keywords=thermal+grizzly
I ordered a tube of Prolimatech PK-3 and Its been great stuff. The tube is gigantic by most thermal compound tubes sizes and it will probably last me for years, assuming it doesn't dry out before then. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008M516R6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: Here is the more moderate sized tube https://www.amazon.com/Prolimatech-Pk-3-Aluminum-Thermal-Compound/dp/B008M5157W/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
This one or this one?
Attach this to the back of your phone: http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-TEC1-12706-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Heat/dp/B00E4GY0FC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406316343&sr=8-1&keywords=peltier
Wire it into a 12v line. Attach a heatsink to the other side of the peltier.
I'd take the review of the most trustworthy PC cooling site on the Internet over customer reviews any day, especially if they're not even conclusive.
The TS140BW is literally the quietest active air cooler ever made, not even the Noctua NH-D15 matches it. And the D15 is a fair bit better than the U14.
That leaves the TS140 more powerful, quieter and cheaper, so the only reason for the Noctua for you left seems to be patriotism.
Its hardware. Get some cpu paste and reseat the cpu and heatsink if you know how to.
https://www.amazon.com/Prolimatech-Pk-3-Aluminum-Thermal-Compound/dp/B008M5157W
This works quite well
There aren't a lot of coolers from noctua that fit on the AM4 socket. Maybe the thickest one would be the better so it has more space to dicipate the air.
(this one)
I always optimize for setups for low noise and cooling, and I personally would go with a noctua heatsink and fan setup. The noctuas cost a little more (~60 on amazon) but I like them the best out of all the CPU coolers that I have ever used. They are quiet and do a great job cooling. For a case I have found that the Antec 1200 is great for two reasons:
2)It allows you to use antec's larger, quieter power supply (CP-850 or CP-1000)
Antec also makes the 900, which is a smaller, cheaper case comparable to the one that you have in your cart.
I built two high-end gaming computers with these parts last year and love them both.
Okay, so I can't find the 140 (BW) anywhere. Amazon ahs it as sold out. http://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-140-BW-Rev-TY-147A/dp/B012JVGKCY
Is this comparable? http://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor | $369.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 (BW) 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $49.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus X99-PRO/USB 3.1 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard | $319.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $181.95 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.50 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case | $72.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer | $39.89 @ OutletPC
Other| NZXT 5.25-Inch Hue RGB LED Color Changing Controller | $31.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1281.18
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-01 13:51 EDT-0400 |
Get the cooler here.
I took the plastic lid off today and monitored the heat of the metal chassis underneath while I rendered some video. I was hot right where you'd expect it - over the CPU and also over the fan.
I'm thinking of buying this heatsink, attaching it with some thermal paste to the metal chassis (with a little bit of thermal adhesive too to hold it in place but not too much to make removal a PITA) and see how that works. It won't be as good as attaching right to the heat pipes but there already is some heat conduction going to the metal chassis which I'm guessing is part of the overall thermal management. And I'm not willing to cut through metal just yet.
I know that you want your NUC silent, but for my purposes I may also get this USB fan to turn on when rendering.
We'll see how it goes...
Actually sorry boss I just looked through my browser history. It wasn't nands, it was Amazon Japan. Apparently you can still have it shipped to the US since it's shipped and sold by Amazon.
https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B07TFX446Y/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=jisakuhibi0b-22&linkId=edd1c0bd313206066d57df9bec177aca&language=ja_JP
It comes with a Wraith Prism cooler for the 8 core, and above.
I am using : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074K4CKG1/
___
You are saying use pads like this: https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Thermal-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTXSM/ ?
https://www.amazon.com/mounting-Bracket-Socket-Heatsink-1-Pack/dp/B07L1Q3XDS/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=am4+backplate&qid=1563916436&s=gateway&sprefix=am4+b&sr=8-7
Within your price bracket, I'd probably go with this laptop and then use the remaining money to get some Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut to repaste the CPU, and get some Fujipoly thermal pads on everything else.
Laptop: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-i7577-7425BLK-PUS-Inspiron-Display-Gaming/dp/B0764HW116/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=laptopunderbudget-20&linkId=23dbc02451b37425c9e9f20d4ee90f08&th=1&psc=1
Thermal paste: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01EO2V332/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522528833&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=thermal+grizzly+conductonaut&dpPl=1&dpID=31%2ByxJo3LfL&ref=plSrch
Thermal pads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZSJQDYA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522562446&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fujipoly+xr-m&dpPl=1&dpID=316q%2BqH5aJL&ref=plSrch
silver arrow 130
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5B57CS5186
Incase anyone else needs it, similar ones are on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Ecowsera-Bracket-Version-Mounting-Distance/dp/B071KB9NM3/ref=lp_8998798011_1_2?srs=8998798011&ie=UTF8&qid=1549815426&sr=8-2
I always keep this stuff in the house.
http://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-Thermal-Compound-Remover-Purifier/dp/B001JYQ9TM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458680158&sr=8-1&keywords=Thermal+Paste+cleaner
I use 2 microfiber cloths. One is a bit fatter, typically used for drying cars but has no protruding fibers or static. I use that one for the citrus based cleaner in the kit, which dissolves the TIM
The second I use the same type of microfiber cloth I use on my Reidel Stemware and scotch glasses. Very thin light microfiber cloth, like you use on sunglasses/electronics cleaning. The second solution is the "polish" which is really just alcohol.
IF you do it properly, the first solution just sits for 30 seconds or so, then almsot ALL the TIM will wipe up in one swipe. Then you use the other for just the spot cleanup.
Works like a charm.
anything that uses the AMD retaining clips will fit, there is also something like this https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-L9x65-SE-AM4-premium-grade-low-profile/dp/B01N27QWFA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487927420&sr=8-5&keywords=noctua+am4
Noctua has 3 coolers that come ready for am4 brackets
It'll perhaps work at 3.6 GHz, but you may not get much use of turbo boost to 4.7GHz because of the sheer inadequacy. You shouldn't have picked that cooler. Make sure the motherboard isn't applying extra voltage. Get something bigger if it'll fit in your case.
'''
Supports all single and dual core CPUs of Intel’s Socket 1155/1156/775 and all single and dual core CPUs of AMD’s Socket FM2/FM1/AM3+/AM3/AM2+/AM2/754/939/940.
'''
http://zalman.com/contents/products/view.html?no=461
Your CPU has eight cores.
Bare minimum? https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-MACHO-DIRECT-Macho-Direct/dp/B019CRDELS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540065952&sr=8-4&keywords=thermalright
Don't know where you're buying the parts, but I'd recommend the Macho Direct, Windale 6, or Scythe Mugen 5 in the ~$40 range if you go with an after market.
Those are a good value that will let you push the overclock and still keep quiet.
I have this for $85 shipped.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC
Works perfectly fine with Ryzen buids @ xmp speed.
I can also include this for another $25:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-L9x65-SE-AM4-Premium-Grade-Low-Profile/dp/B01N27QWFA
Complete with original box and accessories.
$44.90 on Amazon.
or
If you're buying the Asus Crosshair VI Hero, it has AM3 compatibility built in
I haven't used one myself. However I can give you some advice on it if you choose to go with it. The stock fan on it is not the best, I would highly recommend getting a generic universal northbridge/chipset heat sink and grab a 5V fan to go with it.
Buy the eMMC card for it. Make sure you get the one that's for the XU4 as the eMMC cards for the C2 uses a newer standard that is not backwards compatible. Having the eMMC chip makes such a difference compared to using a microSD card.
You'll likely want to run Armbian with the mainline Xenial install. iirc, the Armbian website was hosted from an XU4 for quite a while, at least until it couldn't adequately handle the increased popularity as more and more boards became supported.
I'm not sure what your plans are for storage, but if the drives are currently NTFS formatted you're going to want to change that. You will take a significant performance hit for leaving them NTFS.
I believe you can easily replicate the results using Peltier coolers instead of dry ice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqM4CsM4ewI
Peltiers you can buy online cheaply: http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-TEC1-12706-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Heat/dp/B00E4GY0FC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422550069&sr=8-1&keywords=peltier
In the upcoming year I think I'm actually going to try it. Google "peltier cloud chamber" loads of instructions/guides come up.
One thing to add, I did buy really shitty thermal compound, but then today, when I bought my water cooling, I also bought a lot higher quality thermal compound
Artic Silver 5 really is a mid-grade thermal compound. You can get much better performance at basically the same price. And it looks like you are planning to drop quite a bit for a heat sink, so I would get a better paste to make that investment worth it.
I would recommend one of the following:
Also, for the amount you are willing to spend for a heat sink, there really are much better heat sinks at the price point you are looking at.
So I should get something like this?https://www.amazon.com/Ecowsera-Bracket-Version-Mounting-Distance/dp/B071KB9NM3/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=cpu+cooler+clips+am4&qid=1571693164&sr=8-1
PCPartPicker Part List
|Type|Item|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|
|CPU|AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor|$118.00 @ Amazon|
|CPU Cooler|Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 33.84 CFM CPU Cooler|$39.90 @ Amazon|
|Motherboard|ASRock B450M/AC Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard|$84.99 @ Amazon|
|Memory|Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory|$82.99 @ Amazon|
|Storage|Sabrent Rocket 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive|$59.98 @ Amazon|
|Storage|Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive|Purchased For $0.00|
|Video Card|Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB PULSE Video Card|$419.99 @ Amazon|
|Case|Thermaltake Versa H18 MicroATX Mini Tower Case|$54.99 @ Amazon|
|Power Supply|EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply|$94.99 @ Amazon|
|Monitor|Sceptre E225W-1920 22.0" 1920x1080 60 Hz Monitor|$76.99 @ Amazon|
||||
|Total|$1032.82||
|Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-10 11:39 EDT-0400|||
CPU: The AMD Ryzen 5 2600 with 6 cores and 12 threads should handle any workload you throw at it and gaming is a breeze. This is an overclockable chip so if you want to try doing that later on you can do so no problem.
CPU Cooler: The Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 will cool your processor easily and is a great little cooler. If you want to spend $10USD more and get a little beefier cooler I would suggest this one.
Motherboard: The ASRock B450M/AC is a great motherboard and can handle overclocking if you want to try that in the future and has wifi and bluetooth built in.
RAM: The Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB kit has the speed that Ryzen demands. 3200 is a great speed for this gen and does a wonderful job in adding performance.
Storage: The Sabrent Rocket 512GB M.2 SSD is a great boot drive in a small M.2 factor with no SATA cables going to it leaving less for cable management.
Video Card: The Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB PULSE is a great card and you should be able to game at 1080p 100+fps easily.
Case: The Thermaltake Versa H18 Micro ATX Tower Case because it looks nice, easy to work in, has great airflow, and has a tempered side panel window like you asked for.
Power Supply: The EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold will allow you in the future to upgrade your hardware and still have power left over. You can even overclock your CPU and GPU if you want and have a lot of headroom still.
Monitor: I chose the Sceptre E225W-1920 22.0" 1920x1080 60 Hz Monitor because it had good reviews, has a 60HZ refresh rate and was decently priced.
Total: $1032.82USD before tax
Total: $1118.03USD after tax (using Texas sales tax rate of 8.25%)
Everything on this list is available from Amazon so hopefully you can get it all. I'm not to sure what e-tailers you have in Spain but I hope this helps. If I went too far over your budget please let me know so I can rework your list for you! I got the best I could to fit your budget and your requests.
If you have any questions please feel free to ask!
Just FYI I just upgraded to a 2700X from a 2600. I bought it in May 2019, never over clocked. I would sell the 2600 plus a BNIB wraith prism from the 2700x (very nice led cooler) for $105 shipped
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KB9NM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RZGMAbN19NXTR
You always forget my little HR-02 Macho :P
> Molex? SATA? Are these whare you plug them in?
These are the 2 main types of internal peripheral power connectors (SATA pic, Molex pic).
> Is the 7970 still good, though or would a GTX 670 or two be better?
Price-wise it'll be easier on your wallet with a 670, and they trade blows at stock speeds. Upside of a 7970 is you'll overclock it with much more ease, and you get better results at high resolutions. Whether or not that factors in your choice is up to you. Single screen gaming (whether or not you have multiple screens used for displaying other stuff) : 670. Triple screen gaming or lots of high resolution texture stuff : 7970.
> Any suggestions?
The standard "budget" suggestion is a Cooler Master Hyper 212 (Plus or Evo). If you can order on Amazon, I'd look at a Thermalright HR-02 Macho, which is known for its quiet operation.
Understand about the "home lab" usage scenario.
m.2 SATA ssd vs. 2.5" sata SSD will give same performance. Big advantage of m.2 is not wasting drive slots. From what I have been reading though, I would look at adding some heatsinks to the m.2 as they can get hot, which then triggers thermal throttle reducing performance.
I have been looking at something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P6Z2BQU
Right now for the performance/expansion/etc. it is a tough model to beat in the segment it targets.
oh man, there were literally 2 in stock when I posted that link. Guess someone else got to em first lol
edit: You can also buy this one and cut it down to size: https://www.amazon.com/Fujipoly-mod-smart-Extreme-Thermal/dp/B00ZSJQDYA/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ZSJQDYA&pd_rd_r=HNZD3EZ86BSSQGT2E28K&pd_rd_w=geBCb&pd_rd_wg=iRVL2&psc=1&refRID=HNZD3EZ86BSSQGT2E28K
We need two of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJPZQ2
One of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJRH22
And for the 0.1mm pads, which iunlock said look more like thermal tape, we could use this thermal tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYO3PK9
or we could use K5 Pro: https://www.amazon.com/viscous-thermal-paste-replacement-Aspire/dp/B00UTX7K2E
Its not new, its not that much better, its vastly cheaper. This is available now. 10 years ago, that would have been $600.
When you deal with heat recovery, its a balance between value of energy scavenged relative the cost of the system. When the system cost drops by that much, a lot more heat scavenging becomes economical. Just like the market for computers increased as their price dropped even if the average home computer did nothing new, what it could do at a particular price was the big change.
Unfortunately I only have 158mm space apparently, would something like this be a good choice? I also assume that it would fit LGA1150? I'm struggling to find a nice cooler that's under 160mm.
Spend $20 more and get a real cooler. Thermalright True spirit 140 bk $49 amazon. Hyper212 is a budget cooler not great for oc dc/haswell.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012JVGKCY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_fUTPwb11E91Y7
Hi, thanks for the reply!
No plans to overclock. I'm expecting to use the cooler that comes bundles with the CPU, which is the AMD Wraith Prism LED Cooler
This should be it.
Do you haveThe newer 2018 model? If you bought old stock, the pre-2018 Model, it wouldn't come with ryzen (since ryzen came out in mid 2017).
>If you have CORSAIR Coolers: H50, H55, H75, H80i v2 (H80i GT), H90, H100i v2 (H100i GTX), H105, H110i GTX, H115i, you will need to order this bracket to install the cooler on an AM4 socket.
For the h60 your bracket should look more like this, which would allow you to attach the clips to the stock am4 bracket that came with your motherboard (which should look like this ) the video /u/intel335 linked should help guide you through the process
Noctua NH-L9x65 SE-AM4 Premium-Grade Low-Profile CPU Cooler for AMD AM4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N27QWFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9jiUDbMZVRP3F
This one should fit then, and it's a way better cooler anyway. Lol
i used this arctic silver & their compound remover. Both worked great and my card is running a bit cooler than it did. It's not needed though, i had to order some because of a seperate issue with my card before it blew up.
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste/dp/B0087X728K
and
https://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-Thermal-Compound-Remover-Purifier/dp/B001JYQ9TM/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001JYQ9TM&pd_rd_r=H9FG05WVWTP8KEJN896D&pd_rd_w=za4Ko&pd_rd_wg=pBCBU&psc=1&refRID=H9FG05WVWTP8KEJN896D
I had my 8350 at 25/30 idle and 50 full load.. and probably your cpu goes to thermal protection and downclock itself to 1.4ghz. Buy a thermal paste clean the cpu and the heatsink with alcohol 99% and apply a small dot on the cpu. if you want a cheaper thermal paste click here
Any particular reason you're looking at an AIO? If it's for a server and you want it to be quiet, I'd suggest something by Thermalright. They make incredible coolers that are extremely quiet. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019CRDELS/?tag=pcpapi-20
Honestly though, just use the stock cooler and save yourself some scratch.
Different cpus disperse heat differently. For example the i5 2500k and the 3570k are both different when it comes to temps.
Even if the kuhler 620 is better than the hyper 212 it still costs more and will definitely be beaten by something like the thermalright macho which is still like $8 cheaper than the antec.
http://www.amazon.com/ThermalRight-HR-02-MACHO-Thermalright-Macho/dp/B005ERSN7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349039957&sr=8-1&keywords=thermalright+macho
Wich do you recommend? I got this cheap one of of Amazon thinking it didn't really make much of a difference.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006B8DX/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one i got, should i order another one or will this one do?
I had trouble with bed adhesion for weeks, but I think I may have just figured out the magic for glass.
Anet A6, stock 220mmx220mm PCB/aluminum bed with borosilicate glass on top. I've been using the silicone sticky pads at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074K4CKG1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my bed: 20mmx20mmx1mm. I could get small things to print well enough, but anything bigger than a Benchy just wouldn't adhere. I was sure my leveling was okay.
What it really came down to was managing cold spots on the bed, and I solved this by making a pattern for the sticky pads. I wrote up an SVG for 11x11 grid of 20mmx20mm squares. The squares around the edges are all empty; in the 9x9 subgrid in the center, there are blue squares in the corners, then every other square horizontally and vertically. I'll post the SVG to Thingiverse, but the pattern basically looks like this (_ is white, X is blue):
_
_X_X_X_XX
_
_X_X_X_XX
_
_X_X_X_XX
_
_X_X_X_XX
_
_X_X_X_XX
_
I printed this out (it doesn't quite fit on an 8.5x11 sheet of paper, but that's okay as long as all the blue squares print), cut out the blue squares, and taped the pattern to the heater, lining up the edges that did print up with the edges of the heater. Then I stuck one of the sticky pads in each hole, removed the pattern, and put the glass back on top.
The results are amazing. Larger stuff just sticks now. I wish I had a thermal camera to verify things, and maybe even to refine the design further. But I believe this works just by making sure that even the coldest spots on the glass are being fed by multiple nearby pads, so there's never a chance for any spot on the glass to get too cold.
borosilicate glass bed and double sided silicon thermal pads., never look back.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I used these for the vrm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KKY3KI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I ordered 2 sets of these for the memory chips
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LYO3PK9/
I would suggest against using that spongy tape you have there. Something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYO3PK9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 would transfer heat a lot better I would think. I'd also try to not cover up or have anything touch the fins.
Sure
I have not checked the M.2 temp buy I did install little heatsinks to it. 4 of them. also there is a 140mm case fan blowing right across them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P6Z2BQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for your response!
Here are the links to the different heatsinks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GN969QM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KKY3KI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Will this suffice for my cheapo computer http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00006B8DX/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450392599&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=thermal+paste&dpPl=1&dpID=31gzCf3%2BwdL&ref=plSrch
So this is something I just spent all day yesterday looking at. I've got the 17 R4 with a Samsung 960 Evo and the Hynix NVMe that it came with. I've successfully cloned and moved everything around to get the boot volume onto the Samsung.
Well, doing a sector based backup from the Samsung to the Hynix caused them both to heat way up. HWInfo showed temps on the Samsung of 75 or so for Temp and ~95 for Temp 2. Hynix showed about 80 for Temp and peaked at 118 for Temp 2. From what I've found, Temp is the flash storage and Temp 2 is the storage controller. Once Temp 2 went over 110 on the Hynix everything throttled from ~500MB/s to around 16. Putting the laptop on a cooling tray brought the Temp2 back under 110 and speeds went back to normal.
After digging around it sounds like thermal pads and a heatsink can greatly alleviate the issue, so I've got 2 each of the following items ordered to see what I can get to fit:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Y5DZ4N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2FZ592/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They should arrive tomorrow, and once I'm able to get everything to fit in place I'll pull another backup and see what the temps look like.
I don't think you need shims. All the cores are in the large die. My stock heatsink had plastic over the thermal pad which should have been removed. I discovered it while in the process of replacing the heatsink so i didn't do any testing with it removed.
I've attached this heatsink with thermal paste and a noctua fan and have had a decent improvement in temps.
Using this as a benchmark, my stock times in time2throttle were:
2 instances- 42.4 s
3 - 6.9
4 - 2.3
After the upgrade the times were:
2 - never hit
3 - 46
4 - 5
Suffice to say, I believe the heatsink is making adequate contact without any shimming.
note: time2throttle only runs properly in ubuntu.
I got one for christmas and am trying to cool it off, too.
I got a heatsync: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZRDRX8M
And Noctula Fan: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA
But with the thermal pad, it still shoots up to ~96 degrees under full load. It must be the thermal pad because the heatsync stays totally cool with the fan running (it does warm up without the fan).
I wonder if we could put metal shims on top of the two cpu dies to lift the heatsync away from the rest of the surface mount components and then use proper thermal paste to bind them with the heatsync. I'll have to do some research into this... :) Let me know if you guys come up with any other ideas... !
https://www.amazon.com/sp?_encoding=UTF8&asin=&isAmazonFulfilled=1&isCBA=&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&orderID=112-3774001-2623418&seller=A3D1M5ET5Z3YT6&tab=&vasStoreID=
this store had them for 80$ looks like its sold out now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TFX446Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just installed the Kraken G12 on my Zotac RTX 2070 Super Twin fan. Had to use the "A" brackets, but it worked right out of the box. No modification to the bracket or card needed. Installed in my rig: https://imgur.com/a/fU91Bc5
I didn't like the idea of the fan just blowing air directly on the exposed VRMs or GDDR6 chips, so I re-used the thermal pads from the Zotac stock heatsink, then applied copper heatsinks to the VRAM modules, and tinier aluminum heatsinks to the VRMs.
Copper heatsinks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KKY3KI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Aluminum heatsinks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRBXQWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Only thing I might do in the future is get more thermal pads so I can re-attach the Zotac backplate and get some heat off the back of the memory chips away from the board.
I've been told I should install some heatsinks on my new Intel 600p to avoid thermal throttling. Where exactly should I install the heatsinks on the SSD? Just the black bits (which I'm assuming are the NAND memory), or on the silver part (which I'm assuming is the controller) too?
Got these. Worked great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074Y5DZ4N/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525915113&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=advancing+gene+pcie+nvme+heatsink&dpPl=1&dpID=41rplBB6YxL&ref=plSrch
Hey, you're not wrong. At 161.48mm, the True Spirit 140 Direct just barely exceeds that 160mm clearance limit that some cases have. The Hyper 212 Black RGB is 158.8mm so it will just barely fit in that class of case.
On the other hand, a Macho Direct is $1 more than the TS140D and $4 more than the 212 Black at $43, has better cooling than either, the same 140mm fan, and a height of 158mm (shorter than the 212 Black).
I'm not trying to make you feel bad for buying a Cooler Master, I personally own and like 2 variants of that very cooler (a 212 EVO and a Black non-RGB). I'm just saying that they're only really worth considering when they're on sale. At full price the competition blows them away.
But thermal paste is almost as cheap as air.. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Thermal-Compound-Heatsink-SILVGREASE1/dp/B00006B8DX/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450199242&sr=8-2&keywords=thermal+paste