(Part 2) Best hex keys according to redditors

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We found 336 Reddit comments discussing the best hex keys. We ranked the 146 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top Reddit comments about Hex Keys:

u/burkholderia · 7 pointsr/Bass

Warwick sells tools on their website for their instruments but honestly you'd be better off just getting a set of metric allen wrenches with some small sizes. Looks like the standard warwick tool set is 1.5 and 2.5 mm, you can get that in a standard allen key set.

u/ramennoodle · 6 pointsr/bikewrench

Things that are definitely missing:

  • Peddle wrenches (i.e. any 15mm wrench that isn't too thick.)
  • Tire levers
  • Chain cleaner

    Depending on what a "novice cyclist" repairs and rides:

  • cone wrenches

    Things that you might change:

  • Don't really need the expensive toque wrench. The 5 nm one of these will suffice for many things (bar clamp, rear derailleur, etc.)
  • T-handle hex keys are nice when they work but there are sometimes clearance issues. If only one or other, simple L-shaped hex keys are probably the safer choice.
u/ronisolomondds · 6 pointsr/Tools

I like the T-handles made by Bondhus the best. I also have similar ones by Eklind, but I find the handles to be a little flexy for my taste on the smaller sizes. Both are top quality though, Made in USA.

u/MosheDayanCrenshaw · 4 pointsr/harborfreight

Yup, I have had both for years. They’re not much more expensive but they’re waaaay better and they’re made in the USA. I just got the Bondhus stubby ball-end hex keys for tight access and they are fantastic.

Bondhus 67099 Stubby Double Ball End L-Wrench Set with ProGuard Finish and Extra Long Arm, 9 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F6PWYVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iq6RDb365J7GF

u/alfredbordenismyname · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

I just got this one. Much better than some of the sets I've had.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E7ZLHQ

u/eibv · 4 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

There are torx wrenches if you don't feel like opening the door all the way.

u/mugsybeans · 3 pointsr/Tools

Walmart.com and Amazon sell them. Here's the same set from Amazon with the cheaper packaging for $10.60 shipped. I personally prefer Bondhus allens because they are made in the USA and reasonably priced.

u/Matt3989 · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

For allen keys, I never have good experience with multi-key tools. Instead I recommend these. Not as portable, but you really don't need them to be. These are quality wrenches, but the thing that really makes them nice is the way the kit is organized.

Basic tools are always good BIFL investments. And if you don't consider yourself to be super handy, that's a good life skill to pick up while you're young.

u/zanfar · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Built one last week:

You don't need anything but what the printer comes with. However, there are things that make it much easier:

  • 2.5, 2.0, 1.5mm ball-end hex (Allen) screwdrivers for most of the screws. I have a set of Wihas, and they're awesome. You'll want a dedicated 2.5mm for your printer.
  • 5.5mm hex nut driver for the nylock nuts (again, Wiha makes awesome tools)
  • Small side-cutting snips for zip ties
  • Small screw clamp or large pliers for seating captive nuts
  • Extremely well-lit work area, headlamp, or portable light. When you get to the electronics steps, I don't think there is an orientation where the printer doesn't cast shadows into the enclosure.

    Once printing, there are some things you'll want:

  • SD card reader (printer takes full-size cards)
  • Extra SD cards (so you can slice and prep your next print while your other card is in the printer)
  • Filament a little more exciting than the included silver. I recommend Hatchbox from Amazon. Everything but their Red seems to print amazing with the included "Generic PLA" profile in Slic3r PE.

    Some things I messed up:

  • Use the online instructions
  • The online instructions have comments at the end of each section--which are easily visible--and after each step, which requires a click to show. Read both before starting any section. Re-read those for each step before that step.
  • Read the entire step of instructions all the way through before beginning
  • Don't use a ball-end hex (Allen) wrench for the extruder gear set screws. The sockets aren't deep enough for a ball-end to tighten. It will feel tight, but not be tight, and you will get extrusion issues.
  • When you finish up the hot end, all your wires need to be extremely tight to the assembly and not sticking out--especially to the left or right. The printer calibrates by "feel" and if there is any resistance caused by wires at the end of your X travel, the self-test won't pass.
  • Seriously, just ignore the feet until it's passed a self-test. Then, make your third print a set of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2796596
  • Once you pass a self-test and have a successful first print, flash the newest firmware. It has working filament detection and some other nice features.

    Honestly, it's going to be a long process. I suggest you plan on breaking it up over a few days if you can resist the urge to plow through. Take a 30-40 minute break after each section at least.

    You're also going to get more and more unsure as the process progresses. Have faith in the instructions, and comfort yourself that the printer won't do anything until a self-check is passed at the end. If you take a bit of time and have a little patience, your first print is going to feel amazing.
u/zxj4k3xz · 3 pointsr/airsoft

I use this tool set, these metric allen keys, this valve key (If you need to take apart any gbb mags), and white lithium grease. I apply the grease with paintbrushes which works well. That stuff, tape, a knife, and a dremel solves like 95% of my issues.

u/Justforbuyingguns · 3 pointsr/ar15

I'd recommend a really slim flathead or a knife blade to get under the cover. You need a ball ended allen key to get to the screw properly.

Link

u/label_and_libel · 2 pointsr/Futurology

https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-48332-Tamper-Resistant-L-Wrenches/dp/B002K3ELVO

It's also possible to grind out the pin from the center with a dremel.

u/GHR501 · 2 pointsr/Tools

RIDGID 31305 Model E-110 Hex Wrench, 9-1/2-inch Offset Hex Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009W9BT0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_hkYKBb262GX12

u/sharpic · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Wiha metric and/or inch sets in BIFL quality and guaranteed.

Comes with a holder, and I find I don't misplace quality tools.

u/brandwroid · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

I don't have a Rev, but two boards. I'd definitely recommend this hex key set. Not necessarily to carry around, but its good to have a set to keep screws snug.

EKLIND 55166 Cushion Grip Hex T-Key allen wrench - 6pc set Metric MM sizes 2-6 (6In shaft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CBJDV/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_-evHDbH2ZGVNK

u/The_Gas_Man · 2 pointsr/E30

Well I have a gorilla grip torx set that's also for tamper proof bolts and I bought mine from osh. Here's a link of what it looks like: https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-12632-GorillaGrip-Fold-up-T6-T25/dp/B000E7ZLHQ

u/AndyC67 · 2 pointsr/rccars

They look cool, hope they work well for you.
I use Wiha precision stuff at home and at work... Hex drivers, nut drivers and screwdrivers. A bit pricey but you can't go wrong with them. 👍

https://www.amazon.ca/Wiha-26491-5-Piece-Metric-Driver/dp/B000NZ5QE2

u/NuVek-Vertok · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Yes metric hex and nut drivers. Nut drivers Hex Drivers

u/kscannon · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Picking a set from a local hardware store like this one could help prevent losing them in the future, I would just make sure it starts at 1.5mm and goes up from there. Any metric set should work as long as it has the smallest sizes. Some do start larger 10mm (i think) and go up

Stanley Tools STHT71800 8-Piece Folding Metric Hex Key Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D4C189S/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_e-clxbZE6EBR0

Edit: added local hardware store since they should stock them

u/insanumingenium · 1 pointr/Archery

I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RWH8DG

I keep the metric in my quiver and the SAE in my bow case. Nothing fancy, btu they get the job sone. That said, they got more expensive in the last month.

u/PapaShane · 1 pointr/knifeclub

A little late I guess, but on amazon I ordered this guy (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7ZLHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for $12. It has T6, T7, T8, T9, T10, T15, T20, and T25 folding bits. Cheap, small, worked great when I needed to tighten some screws or change pocket clips.

u/somewhatboxes · 1 pointr/cycling

Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.

But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...

  • cheap tool set ($40) (total $40)
  • torque wrench ($50) (total $90)
  • chain cleaning tool ($10) (total $100)
  • cable cutting tool ($35) (total $135)
  • maybe chain pliers? ($10) (total $145)

    At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools

  • some nice metric hex tools ($15) (total $160)
  • some torx equivalents ($11) (total $171)

    Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier

  • tire levers ($9) (total $180)

    If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.

  • Portable multi-tool ($25) (total $210)

    I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)

  • work gloves ($20) (total $230)

    There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.

    And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.

    Best of luck

    edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!
u/wytrabbit · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

Use a small Alan wrench/Hex key, or if you have an old fork you don't care about you can bend the tines with some pliers. Stick either of these under the bowl and wiggle it loose.

u/amex_padx · 1 pointr/boostedboards

Get one of these to remove the screws (you should get one anyway to replace all the allen keys): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O4AFQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Then as said below any set of pliers will be safe to detach the wires so long as you don't squeeze too hard.

u/aspiffymofo · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

quality t handle hex wrench set I got this set and love it.

Some curved jaw cable cutting pliers for cutting brake and shifter housing/cable.
This is essential for making clean cuts. Don't try to use wire cutters.

Some kind of stand. Or some way to secure the bike while you work on it. I bought the cheapest trainer I could find on craigslist for this purpose and it has worked out great.

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

quality t handle hex wrench set

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/WageSlaveEscapist · 1 pointr/DieselTechs

Take the opportunity. This tool is handy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009W9BT0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But actually most fasteners aren't that huge unless you're doing suspension work or heavy equipment. I did most of my work in school with a half inch ratchet and two rails that go to like 25mm and 1". I got a sunex deep impact set and a 1/2" nitrocat impact gun, and a tekton big wrench set. Also a precision instruments brand torque wrench, 1/2", does several hundred foot pounds. Got their inch pounds wrench too. Don't forget a long 1/2" breaker bar, pry bars, crows foot bar. And leave your adjustable wrench at home where it belongs, other than that rigid one I posted. =]
All that said, I later realized I want to work on sprinters, so I don't need that big of tools anyhow.

https://www.pcc.edu/programs/diesel/documents/tool-list.pdf

u/ComLaw · 1 pointr/Tools

I used this Amazon link but the photo is different (price is the same). So I'm not sure what you would get if you ordered.

The guys at KCToolCo.com are nice also.

u/LatvianResistance · 1 pointr/simracing

Na, you'll need it lol. It's essential. Just make sure you make all your pedal adjustments before you mount it to your rig, otherwise it'll be impossible.

And make sure you have some stubby hex keys like this

Bondhus 67099 Stubby Double Ball End L-Wrench Set with ProGuard Finish and Extra Long Arm, 9 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F6PWYVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4GRwDbWQTD78B

Or you won't be able to get between the plate and the rig to tighten it down!

u/phr0ze · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Esun filament is easy to get. If you get the powder coated sheet prints come off easy. If not then I recommend a scraper and 99% iso alcohol. I also recommend the following.


Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K


Wiha 26491 5-Piece Ball Metric End Hex Driver Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZ5QE2

u/Dleslie212 · 1 pointr/Plumbing

I like using a spud wrench and large crescent wrench for anything with a nice finish. You can also get finish pliers that have no teeth to scratch with.

Spud Wrench -http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-31305-8-Inch-8-Inch-Capacity/dp/B0009W9BT0

Finish pliers - http://www.nkbaxter.com/Channellock-Pliers.html

u/lavardera · 1 pointr/Tools

Gulp - can't get over the price on these PB Swiss, but they do look nice.
fixed - standard 1" bit size $40, could be worse.
ratcheting - still standard bits, bigger bit storage
ratcheting, longer shaft

u/driftsc · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Nope. I just picked these up for my Lexus, but we're incorrect... to small

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Z58VXC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_p2Xlxb1GGZZN8

u/3_14159td · 1 pointr/FRC

Allen wrench set (Bondhus), zip ties, a 7/16 & 3/8 open-end wrench, and a pair of snips (Hakko) would be far more versatile and optimized to fixes you can actually make on the robot.

u/SpacemanFrank · 1 pointr/FTC

What type of budget does your team have?

How much space is available as your work area?

How experienced at building robots are the mentors?

What build system does you team intend to use? How many custom parts do y'all want to make?

What level of CAD skills does the team have?

We need to know these things to give valid advice. If your team has $100 to spend on tools the list is really different than if your team has $500. If your team has ~$4000 and really experienced mentors the list is also totally different.

​

Let's assume your team has really limited budget and wants to make the most of it. I will also assume you are using the REV system.

Here is my minimum tool list:
5.5 mm Nut Driver - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1119/

5.5 mm wrench - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1374/

Allen wrench set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Hex-Allen-Wrench-Ball/dp/B0776C2D6H/

Rotary Cutter - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

Hand drill - https://smile.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-DR260C-Drill-Driver/dp/B00T2VJ93C/

Hack saw - https://smile.amazon.com/Tactix-267031-Adjustable-Hacksaw-Frame/dp/B00ABBUU2Q/
Bench Vice - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-453BV-3-Inch-Heavy-Swivel/dp/B07KKXQQ3S

Metric Drill bit set - https://smile.amazon.com/Drill-Warehouse-99pcs-1-5mm-Titanium/dp/B01NC25BRK

Pliers set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Tools-4-Piece-Pliers-Set/dp/B015X2NHOK


That works out to be ~$110 + shipping and tax. These are the bare minimum tools IMO. If you can answer the questions above I can give you some better advice.

- Frank

u/MADminer1003 · 1 pointr/airsoft

You need a smaller hex key, I had the same problem

Edit: [I mean this small] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N9B6BC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

u/owlmob · 1 pointr/Archery

I use a set of bicycle allen keys, similar to this.

u/XtremeDoggo · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Toyota head bolts are circular on the outside. The tool I'm using is this:

CTA Tools 9295 Toyota Head Bolt Wrenches –Double Hex 1/2-Inch Square Drive Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Z58VXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BBcwzbAAZ3S9V

I rounded the inside of the bolt head, if that makes sense

u/English999 · 1 pointr/Tools

Bondhaus L-Wrench Ball End

Bondhus 69600 Ball End Double Pack L-Wrench Set with ColorGuard, 13 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FBFI6T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l0zNBb4AF9N52

u/F150fx4hunter · 1 pointr/ar15
u/ImKira · 1 pointr/rollerblading

Might be worth investing in a good set of t-handle allens wrenches for the future, to avoid stripping axels.

This is the set that I use.

u/HumanKumquat · 0 pointsr/PS4

Everything.

#expectedthanos#avengers#endgame

The thermal paste+pads cost me roughly $18 total. I already had the security torx and spudgers, so they didn't cost me anything.

If you need to buy Torx wrenches, these are the ones I used. I quite like Bondhus because they're made in the USA and they offer a lifetime warranty. They cost more than Chinese made tools, but I've never had one break, and if they do, its not a huge deal to get them replaced.

These are the spudgers I use. Any spudger would probably work just as well. I would stay away from metal ones though. Plastic spudgers won't mar plastic, while metal ones will.

u/TOUCHER_OF_SHEEP · 0 pointsr/knives
u/capnflummox · -2 pointsr/askscience

It is the case: Lawyered