Best hinges according to redditors

check this one out

Oh, I see. They're barrel hinges though. The pin is inside a steel casing, so it can't be removed:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IB6HV0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, these are sort of good. I have worked on many ambulances with these types of latches, and have to say that after a while things will shrink and expand and they won't seal perfectly anymore. So you get clattery and shaky doors. I highly reccomend adjustable trigger latches like below. They latch just as well, but the bolt on the back makes the tension held on the closed door or drawer adjustable, so if things move or expand, you simply have to turn the screw a bit, instead of jamming shims in closed doors to stop the rattle. You can find them cheaper than this. But this was what I found right away. Just my thoughts. https://www.amazon.com/Southco-C2-33-37-Non-Locking-Lever-Trigger/dp/B01BG1HNI8/ref=asc_df_B01BG1HNI8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167119394598&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4176747316469274459&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027991&hvtargid=aud-643191255296:pla-315826124101&psc=1

No no no....

Modification.

I'm thinking piano hinge material and some of these. They could be riveted to the plastic material easily. Get fancy and put a 1/4" strip of foam around the edge of the panel(s) you cut away, overlapping the edge to get a seal.

http://www.amazon.com/Sugatsune-KN-50R-SS-Stainless-Handedness/dp/B00GKZDMCW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

So true. They even make a tool to remove the pins in 10 seconds per pin or so. Can't recall if we can do Amazon links here but here's one I have that works well for under $15. I'll edit it out just in case:

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Hinge-Pin-Remover-Removes/dp/B00DND4NN6

Exposed hinges are the security equivalent of a screen door.

You want a friction hinge.

Amazon is your friend here

I found this cute little guy. Less than 2 inches long.

I'm just using a standard piano hinge.

https://www.amazon.com/National-Hardware-N265-371-Continuous-Nickel/dp/B000BPB2OW/

Thank you. I used superglue on the hardware to keep it in place until I could get the screws in. I had to trim each screw about 1/16 so it didn't poke into the inside of the box.

Latch with hinges that will not work on a box like this. They only open about 90 degrees

Hinge

The adjustable bit has a magnet under it to keep it from banging around. If I made it again I would make a hole for the cutting end and not the end held by the drill. It would be more secure that way.

I just made a small ring box for my wife, used one of these

I'm not much of a DIY person myself but maybe a couple of pivot hinges? Or you can still do a piano hinge, but paint it to the color of the wire panels.

Use the door you are replacing as a template. Overlaying it on your new door, mark the hinge positions and trace around the door. Shave off the sides, top and bottom as necessary to make the door the exact size as the one you are replacing (using a circular saw and a straightedge/clamps). Use a hinge marker to make perfect outlines where your hinges should be. Use a chisel and hammer to cut out these areas and mount your hinges to the door. Mount the opposing hinges to the existing frame and things should, if you have been studious about duplicating the original door, line up quite nicely.

I've done dozens of doors using this method. Works every time. Pain in the ass? Yeah, but totally doable.

It looks nice, and kudos for putting the effort in, but I just can't get past those cringes. Why not use something like a continuous hinge, like this? National Hardware V570 1-1/16" X 12" Continuous Hinges in Nickel https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000BPB2OW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vaCoDbBQVER72

Okay, onto the more technical questions.

1. If you want to inlay the trim, you shouldn't need anything special besides an appropriately sized bit. i'm not exactly sure where you're planning on doing the inlay though.
   
   
2. A mortised lock will be bored into the edge of your piece, so that the lock is fully trapped by the wood, then held in place with screws. The locks on the doors in your home are mortised locks. A half-mortised lock would still be cut into the wood, but one face of the lock would be exposed. I'm not sure if it would be on the front, or the back. It might depend on the lock. Either ought to be doable with a router.
   
   
3. For a hinge, this is probably the simplest way to go: https://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-Box-Stop-Hinge-Plated/dp/B0063D7P5G/ref=sr_1_12?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1485304357&sr=1-12&keywords=jewelry+box+hardware+hinges.
   
   
   

I have been picking up these hinges for about $3.50 here locally. Amazon seems kind of high on this. Blum is the only way to go though, no question.
https://www.amazon.com/Blum-Compact-Soft-Close-BLUMotion-Overlay/dp/B007O6VFMA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIbtVGAEdMo

There are tons of styles depending on what You need

I believe it's called a pivot. Could you maybe use something like this with a little modification?
http://www.amazonsupply.com/dp/B008MQ9UBO?ref_=sr_1_2_img

> Okay, onto the more technical questions.
> If you want to inlay the trim, you shouldn't need anything special besides an appropriately sized bit. i'm not exactly sure where you're planning on doing the inlay though.

This amazing drawing shows that in red. Or I could place it just under the lid. Both ways, I am concerned, may not mesh with the finger joints I'm planning to use. I suppose I could always space them out so I don't have any joints in the way of the inlay. The moulding is 5/16" x 3/4" and the straight bit that came with the router is a 5/16" straaight cut. I'd have to research/practice this LOTS on scrap pieces if I went with it. The other option would simply be to leave out the original base that's shown in the original picture and use this, which is 1425-8 3/8 in. x 7/8 in as the base or do the same thing (remove the base pictured) or use this one as the base and it is 7/16 in. x 3/4 in. These are basically my three otions. I was initially going to put feet on it but I feel like maybe the ornamental touch of themoulding might make the much smaller lily pattern I'll be doing on one lid corner stand out a bit. (It's leaves and all)

Shit, I could also do the inlay right around the middle of the box and space my finger joints accordingly since I don't think I could have one where the inlay is, could I? Also, this is Redwood Cedar I'm using, If you were to use the pine (i think) ornamental moulding, would you stain it first? If so, what color?

> A mortised lock will be bored into the edge of your piece, so that the lock is fully trapped by the wood, then held in place with screws. The locks on the doors in your home are mortised locks. A half-mortised lock would still be cut into the wood, but one face of the lock would be exposed. I'm not sure if it would be on the front, or the back. It might depend on the lock. Either ought to be doable with a router.

I did do some research on this one today and decided to go with the half mortise with the exposed portion on the inside (hopefully) so I can perfectly center the plaque with the name on it and it doesn't get in the way of anything.
> For a hinge, this is probably the simplest way to go: https://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-Box-Stop-Hinge-Plated/dp/B0063D7P5G/ref=sr_1_12?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1485304357&sr=1-12&keywords=jewelry+box+hardware+hinges.

Thank you so much for suggesting this. I did see this earlier because I was worrying myself about what type of chain to install or special inside hinge (the'yre quite expensive). Correct me if I'm wrong but I think on a smaller box, such as the one I am making, the best look would be two small hinges versus the long one.

I appreciate your input so much I can't even put it into words. Not to mention I haven't finished putting the accessory pieces on the table saw yet because I'm so worried about the whole design. By now, I should have at least started with the box itself but I'm a planner and can't help it.

I feel like by the time I'm done with this project I'm gonna have 5 or 6 left over to sell or something.

Sketchup was a little difficult for me to figure out in my limited time so I think I'm going to use Gimp to put all these ideas "on paper" so it all makes sense. That'll probably help it come together a lot more quickly. And all the input from here is extraordinarly helpful. My father taught me to make a simple jewelry box when I was much younger so I'm sure I can pull this off. The difference is that I used his standard design instead of adding anything on my own. When I text him earlier asking whether or not I could use that trim as an inlay his exact response was, "I couldn't... You couldn't... You need too much more practice." Well, I believe this IS my practice. So again, I thank you so much for your input and hope I've described everything so that it makes sense.

Decorative 90° Stop Hinges, Brass, Pair
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJ1ZWIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EaHQzbV70NTCN

I used this thing when I redid all the doors in our house and it worked great. Wouldn't address your pry bar or hammer asks though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DND4NN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6vYvDbYSP0N2N

Though not exactly what youre describing
I just bought an incipio faraday (advance)
and the cover that covers the screen flips around back
and creates a flat surface for your kickstand to stand on.
and makes it far more "lapable".
And you dont loose any functionality.

to be honest I doubt youd be able to ind something like that because the surface is marketed around the kickstand and I doubt that it would be a good business move for case designers to create a case that impeded with the basic function of the tablet.

Though I imagine making your own using some friction hinges like this and a few sheets of plastic http://www.amazon.com/Friction-Hinge-Stainless-Height-Torque/dp/B005P0H0HQ made to grip the top and bottom of the tablet wouldnt be impossible to make.
Then again it wouldnt be nearly as robust or good looking unless you had access to a cnc machine or a 3d printer.

Either way good luck.

I bought them at the local steel shop. No issue with them binding at all. They are much heavier then the angle iron they are welded to. They're made to be welded

Edit: Pretty much these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002IB6HV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4/168-4491808-1198044?ie=UTF8&qid=1483734824&sr=1-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=31cPCGGXL3L&ref=plSrch

The keyholes would be in the butt side of the joint. The edge of the boards that you want to join up together. You'd recess the keyhole into the wood and have the key at the right depth so that the edges join up nicely when the key(s) are in the keyhole(s).

As for something to attach to the underside, some kind of cam/lever based latch might work, something heavy duty like this. As long as you have some kind of solid system for alignment, that should work ok to hold it together I'd guess.

Sadly yeah, it has to be about the same size as this https://www.amazon.ca/Southco-E6-10-301-20-Adjustable-Copolymer-Symmetric/dp/B00GM5G89E

So around 5x4 cm.