Best hobby remote & app controlled vehicles & parts according to redditors

We found 2,580 Reddit comments discussing the best hobby remote & app controlled vehicles & parts. We ranked the 1,212 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Hobby remote & app controlled vehicles
Hobby remote & app controlled vehicle parts
RC vehicle fuel
RC vehicle oil & lubricants

Top Reddit comments about Hobby Remote & App Controlled Vehicles & Parts:

u/cleazenby · 182 pointsr/AskReddit

Remote control heli. All metal construction, 3 channel with gyroscope. Literally 10000x better than any air hogs crap.

u/smithincanton · 72 pointsr/pics

Come visit /r/Multicopter I would suggest that he not start with a DJI Phantom. It creates some bad habits that would be hard to brake later if he wanted to move to a different platform. You can get a RTF (Ready To Fly) quad for less than $50 that i'm sure he would have a blast with.

u/ctwstudios · 62 pointsr/gadgets
u/hydroxy · 52 pointsr/AskReddit

Ideas I've had or seen in the thread thus far:

u/akcom · 33 pointsr/DIY

Oh no, you didn't get extra batteries!. If I may, let me pass down some wisdom:

  • Your first instinct will to fly it as high as you can, ignore this instinct or you will be buying another one very soon
  • Take it outside and try to make it hover. Once you can make it hover, try landing it on a specific item (tree stump, electrical generator box, etc).
  • As soon as possible, get comfortable with higher rate mode (press down on the right stick)
  • Once you can hover and land, work on flying it in circles. Practice flying it with the nose towards you, it's very very hard at first.
  • Once you can do circles, move on to figure eights.
  • Now you're ready for a 250mm size quad like the ZMR 250 or the WarpQuad
u/bokharni · 32 pointsr/pics

It's the Syma S107. Here's a Link

there's several colors, all under $30, and they're awesome! I got one for Christmas too.

u/puterTDI · 30 pointsr/geek

I have a full size quad that I built. I also have a hubsan.

I highly recommend getting the hubsan to practice with. it's cheap, easy to repair, and does a good job training flight skills.

one with camera ($30):

Without camera ($30):

FPV ($110):

On a side note, I am floored at how cheap the fpv and camera models are.

u/statikuz · 25 pointsr/funny

Those RC helicopters are the best!

u/gummybur · 24 pointsr/sffpc

Build Pics

Setup details:Monitor: Acer KG271USpeakers: Logitech z506KB: Tecware Phantom w 3rd party keycapsMouse: Razer Mamba Elite & Razer scarab mousepadCase: SM550

Build Details:
MB: Asus ROG Strix B450-i gaming
CPU: R7 3700x
CPU cooler: Cryorig C7G + NF-A9x14
Ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200Mhz CL16
PSU: Corsair SF750 Plat
GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 Gaming XC
Additional Case Fans: 2x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3 Pwm


  1. Inserting MB before fans is easier in the SM550 (contrary to the manual)
  2. 2x Silent Wings 3 were from previous build but they are waaay louder than the small NF-A9x14
  3. The motherboard forces fans to go to 100% at 75 degrees, anyway to circumvent this?
  4. Wifi/ BT antenna on the asus b450-i is kinda ugly, need suggestions for replacements
  5. 3700x idles at ~50 and ramp up to 70-80 in games. Voltage jumps around 0.9-1.4 in idle but stays above 1.4 while gaming. Before disabling iCUE, Razer Chroma SDK, Razer Synapse and ASUS Aura sync, voltages were contantly 1.4v and up in idle
  6. Sliger gives an option for:- internal 20pin- USB A and USB C- internal 20pin to USB A and internal type L to USB CGo for the former with an AMD mobo cos they dont have the internal type L socket for the individual type C port like on Intel mobos. Mine got shiped with the latter so I cant use my front type c port :( Need the new silverstone CP14 connected for the USB C port on the front panel or the new front panel IO for it to be useful
  7. Didn’t add the GPU and supp mobo cables into pslate customs order! Have to wait till he takes orders again


  8. Any suggestions on Wifi/BT replacements for this mobo?
    1. Currently looking at this antenna from huacam and this unbranded antenna
  9. Any way to raise the thermal cap of the mobo to more than 75 degrees to stop fans ramping up so often?
    1. Stop gap measure is to set case fans to motherboard temperature, but under gaming loads CPU goes up to 80 degrees yikes gonna play more with fan curve
    2. Using noctua silent fan adapter works to cap max volume but ramping up is still an issue
    3. Noctua fan controller looks abit too big to fit into the case and cablemanagement would be quite messy
    4. Tried installing AI suite III and it crashed my com =/ don't really want to pay for software like argus monitor either
  10. Are the temps and voltages for the CPU normal? Been getting conflicting/ confusing answers on the r/AMD threads
    1. TLDR they are normal
    2. Tried reducing PPT but temps and voltages are still similar, will look more into it
  11. Will Sliger cases sell their internal 20pin to USB A and USB C header separately? (SOLVED)
    1. They do but will prioritize sending out current case orders first

      Overall pretty happy with the build quality and how the theme turned out. Black/gray with orange highlights :) Eagerly waiting the NF-A12x25 and NF-A9x14 chromax fans!!! (If we DO get them lol)

      (edit: added more info)(edit 2: added responses and findings)
u/SloppyCandy · 17 pointsr/sffpc

I use these wifi antennas. No real numbers to back them up but they seem to work and stay out of the way

u/KingBooRadley · 17 pointsr/gadgets

Hubsan x4 mini quadcopter. Super fun, amazing stability and as much range as you could want for something this size. It also takes a licking and bounces back. When it doesn't, it's pretty easy to fix. A great gateway model for the whole "drone" hobby. There's also a version with a camera to take movies, and an FPV model. For under $40 it's a great deal if you're are at all interested in the hobby.

u/KevinBongart · 16 pointsr/AskReddit

Two RC helicopters.

I wish they were this cheap when I was 6.

u/Swab · 11 pointsr/Multicopter
u/mentalorigami · 9 pointsr/Multicopter

Cut your teeth on something like this before you start throwing money at big/expensive stuff.

u/SpectralRaz · 9 pointsr/sffpc

Album Link

This is the Velka 3 v1.1 in Grey

This is my very first SFFPC build. I am coming a Fractal Design Nano S. This Velka 3 is Tiny! I did some small amount of basic modding to make it look like I wanted it. I replaced the 16mm Anti-Vandal switch that came with it for one that has an led for power. I wrapped the psu cables in an automotive cloth wiring harness tape so you couldn't see the bright psu cables from the original. I taped over the Velkase Fans to hide the colors of the stickers and cables as well. I also used the small quadcopter antennas.



| Part | Price | Purchased at |
| Ryzen 5 1600| $65| hardwareswap
| MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC | $130| Amazon
| 8GB x 2 Crucial Ballistix Sport 3000MHz | $66| Amazon
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 SC 6GB | $110| hardwareswap
| FSP 400w Flex ATX PSU | $90| Amazon
| Reeven Vanxie 34mm Tall | $20| Newegg
| Samsung EVO 970 250GB| ($70 otherwise)| Previous Build
| Velka 3 Grey| $80| Velkase
| 2 x VF-8010-PWM 80mm x 10mm| $20| Velkase
| Velkase-LiHeat 300mm Riser | $40| Velkase



Replacement Power Switch

  • For the Replacement LED I chose this one from Amazon in White color. I snagged this to create the harness. Using Shrink tube and Cable Sleeving and some solder to attach it to the switch.

  • For those of you interested in the space that the PSU has heres a close up with how close it to the power switch.

    CPU Cooler

  • I chose this cooler just to try. This was way before the Black Noctua NH-L9 Released. I replaced the fan with a Velkase fan because its all black and has the same dimensions and also has a higher RPM. So far the temps have been good. My CPU isn't stressed while gaming (1080p 60hz). I think I turned on game mode in the bios and the CPU is at 3.4Ghz on all cores. The cooler is rated for 65W TDP.

    Case Fans

  • For those interested in the 80mm x 10mm clearance heres a photo of close they come with the motherboard

    Velka 3 Sidenotes

  • So just a small side note the case came with plenty of M3 Screws BUT I noticed that some are different styles. There are two types. Ones that are longer, and have a smaller phillips socket. And ones that are shorter and a larger phillips socket. The shorter ones actually are shallower and they don't protrude on the sides of the case as much. I used these for the exterior panels. The longer ones I used for mounting all the internals as they had more "bite" to hold everything together
  • It also came with a prototype of the pico psu blanking plate for the PSU. Response from Michael on this exactly "the PSU cover is just an experimental part with limited use, so it is not mentioned anywhere. If the direct plug in HDPLEX 200 (not yet tested) physically fits into the case, then the PSU cover can be used with it. A PicoPSU from MiniBox can be used as well, but only if you correctly drill two small holes around the smaller circular opening in the plate."
  • One thing I want to point out is with my particular case it had a blemish on the side panel. Not sure why but its noticeable when looked at closely. There's one on both sides in the same spot but this on is the most noticeable and more noticeable in person
u/OverTheir · 8 pointsr/pics

I suspect that it is a SYMA!

Can anybody verify?

E: I'm like, 97.2% sure it is.

u/cl249099 · 8 pointsr/gadgets

A toy heliocoptor. I got this one for Christmas, its alot of fun.

u/theLoaf71 · 8 pointsr/trees

They are surprisingly durable and easy to fly. I've slammed that thing into the walls and ceiling dozens of times so far and it still flies great.

u/upsidedownpancake · 7 pointsr/gifs
u/enaq · 7 pointsr/videos

This line of quadrocopter is a great place to start. These little guys are very affordable and robust.

u/rps13drifter · 7 pointsr/Multicopter

Get [this] ( one! And several sets of propellers. And get your company to buy it for you as training.

Trust me, you WILL crash many times. If they can afford the big copter, they can afford this too. Give yourself a month to learn on the little one and you will save many hundreds of dollars in repair.

Edit: Just read you're at a water park, so DEFINITELY get the smaller model before flying the big one. Unless a $1400 loss is acceptable.

u/J_nugget · 7 pointsr/fpv

I am a beginner in fpv flying who just got a maiden flight of my x220 today and here are my thoughts.

tldr; x220 is too dangerous to recommend to a first time flyer so get a Hubsan X4 or similar quad to practice with since it's way cheaper.

This was the first ever drone I bought and is what I started with (Jun 2015). It was way harder than I thought it'd be but I eventually got a feel for it and got a Hubsan X4 (Nov 2015) after researching for a first "real quad". It was a huge step in difficulty but after a year I am very comfortable in the Expert flying mode. I can full throttle it into the corner of my wall and quickly pull back, operate it with the front facing any direction, orbits, yaw spins, etc.

The x220 was a completely different level. During my short flight I had to focus on just hovering and could only move it in the direction I was facing and this was only in angle mode which is basically auto leveling afaik. Regular mode I could just hover. Remember too that this is all LoS and not FPV. I got a pair of FatSharks setup but am not near comfortable enough to use them in flight.

This thing is a beast and super dangerous so I would not recommend it to someone who has never flown a quad before. I'm not sure how good sims are for learning but I would look into a Hubsan X4 to learn with since its relatively cheap and has that expert mode to work up to. You can also fly it indoors during the winter and outdoors when its nice out.

u/samsc2 · 7 pointsr/Futurology

Yeah but it's gotta be affordable, and not fake. I've tried searching for available graphene batteries or systems and so far there isn't really anything you can buy that seems not sketchy. I'm also not impressed by any of the stats that come with some of the less sketchy ones i/e actually rated and not just fake reviews. Until that "graphene" battery has specifications that dictate it's significantly better than anything else I won't buy it. They are always claiming graphene is crazy amazing with super storage and fast charge times but when it has barely more than standard battery storage I get a bit skeptical. I found one which says it's a graphene battery but it's only 14v 1.3 Ah and it weighs 176 grams. While numerous other standard type batteries like this one have the same exact specs but actually weigh less at 155 grams. Which makes no sense considering the supposed capabilities of graphene and perks for using it. Which leads me to believe that it being advertised as graphene is a bit of a stretch towards and outright lie.

u/creepytacoman · 7 pointsr/fpvracing

That one on amazon you found looks really bad to be honest. When something breaks you'll have trouble finding a replacement, the radio is proprietary and will never work with anything else, it's got tons of plastic parts, and the battery is probably crap. Even if I'm completely wrong about it and it isn't garbage, there's no way it's worth $450, since you can actually get a pretty decent set up with that much.

There aren't going to be many good full kit options out there. The only one even worth considering is the eachine wizard, and even that is dubious at best. Instead you'll want to buy the radio, goggles, and then a BNF (bind and fly) drone all separately, which means you choose which receiver to put in it (usually when you buy it, you select which one when you add it to your cart and they'll put it in for you), and when you get it you just bind it to your radio.

For a radio, get the Taranis QX7. There are several options to consider, but you really can't go wrong with this, it's worth every penny:

This is a FRSKY radio, which means when you're buying the drone, just select FRSKY version so you get the right receiver in it.

Check out the channel uavfutures, he reviews a lot of prebuilt stuff, as opposed to other channels which review individual components. He does really clickbaity titles which can be difficult to get through, but check out his playlists as they're a bit better organized.

For goggles, there are so many to consider across a huge price range. The big two "types" are box style vs compact style. Boxes are big and bulky, but also a lot cheaper. Usually under $100. Most compact goggles are way up in the $300-$500 range, but there are a handful like the eachine EV100 and F640 that manage to get that slick form factor in at just over $100. Here's UAVFutures' playlist on them:, but if you prefer written down with way more detail and comparisons, Oscarliang is a fantastic resource as well:

It's also worth noting, since you asked, that latency is not really going to be an issue as long as you're using fully analog 5.8GHZ, which is going to be basically anything you see on uavfutures. Latency is only a thing on digital, like those shitty wifi cameras that connect to your smartphone. There are a couple digital FPV systems worth using, but they're still very new and thus very expensive.

Field of view is very important. The more you see, the more awareness you have. However that's a property of the camera lens, not the goggles. You can also swap out the lens very easily if you want it wider or different. I personally use this lens which is branded for gopro, but they're all the same.

Field of view in goggles is different, it's the size of the image in front of you. Getting wider field of view in this case won't actually allow you to see more, it'll just be stretched. You don't want to go too small or it'll be hard to see, but you also don't want to go too large or you'll have to move your eyes around the screen to focus on different things. Not too many goggles go outside of either extreme, so you probably won't need to worry about this part.

For the drone itself, again, UAVFutures. He reviews a ton. Just watch through a bunch of them and see which one catches your eye:

u/OurJesuitPaymasters · 7 pointsr/sffpc
u/b1gr3dd · 6 pointsr/Multicopter

Not sure why you would spend a week looking, Amazon Prime FTW

u/TheAppleFreak · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

Looking at the Amazon listing, you’d need the following:

u/fleaofsc · 6 pointsr/Multicopter

Which ones in particular? Here is 20 props for $8.99... Amazon

u/shortyjacobs · 6 pointsr/AskReddit

A Syma S107 RC Helicopter. <30 bucks, and friggin awesome. I've been playing with mine for weeks.

If you wanna give money to Reddit, use the link, (and/or read comments), in qgyh2's post

u/ThePiemaster · 6 pointsr/AskReddit

Get one of these !

Only $20, they are completely stable and maneuverable in any direction. I've dropped it from over 30 feet and ran them into walls and it still flies like a champ. With blinky lights too! Not sure what else you could want in a heli.

u/misterwuggle69sofine · 6 pointsr/aww

The charge time really isn't all that bad. It'll charge back up in 10-15 minutes. I really thought it'd bother me but I'm totally okay with it. This is the perfect starter copter to learn how to fly these things.

If it's really a deal breaker and you're okay with spending more, one of the cheapest way you're going to get significantly improved flight time would probably be a Hubsan X4, a 5 pack of batteries, a simple charger, and a prop guard for about $70 before tax.

I'd call that step 2 in the hobby though and would absolutely recommend the Cheerson CX-10 as step 1.

u/fgump · 6 pointsr/gadgets

A quad copter like this:
Hubsan H107L X4 Mini RTF RC Quadcopter

u/pekeqpeke · 6 pointsr/Multicopter

Wait till you get one of these

u/nerobro · 6 pointsr/fpv

$500 is a tight budget. $500 can get you "something that flies" and "something that's FPV." At the $500 level, you're talking 4-12 minutes.

Wind handling comes from "being fast" and "having a decent flight controller". Naze32, Flip32, KK2 2.1, NAZA, etc.. are all good flight controlers.

The big question is, what are you trying to do? Just "get in and have fun?" Well, in that case I'd probally point you at something like a the Proto or Hubsan ready to fly FPV quads, and a second, non FPV quad for bashing around. Buy two of the same brand, and a half a dozen batteries, and a good charger.

Quadcopters break. And they break, a lot. The bigger they are, the more they break. If you oops, you've lost a prop. If you oops hard, you've broken an airframe, bent a motor shaft, popped a battery... something like that.

If you're determined to fly something larger, you're going to eat the budget quickly.

So "the nerobro way"

Hubsan 104d FPV: $150

Hubsan 104 crash pack: $20

Hubsan 107 (non fpv): $54

4x battery charger: $7

That'll get you something to learn with, and something to fly FPV with for less than $350. And you will NOT be bored. :-) And if you really screw up, you'll have spare parts. Consider adding a few more batteries.

u/manta_style · 6 pointsr/radiocontrol

If you are looking for a good beginner quad copter that you can easily learn to fly then you should go for the Hubsan X4 or the Blade Nano QX

u/KcKilla151 · 5 pointsr/ActionFigures

Shock oil for RC cars does the trick.

u/musicalboy2 · 5 pointsr/Cubers

I'm assuming you're talking about maintaining a speedcube.

Pop out an edge, once in a while (every few hundred solves, maybe) clean out the cube dust that accumulates. Use a wet cloth (or a tissue, if you're lazy)

Re-lube (try traxxas 50k for lube. It'll last you for years) with a few drops of lube. Put a drop on the edge, and a drop on the base of a corner. If you're up for it, unscrew and lube the core (a small drop on each of the screws/springs), but you don't really NEED this.

u/cyberole · 5 pointsr/Cubers

If you want to lube it use this guide:

Best (for the price) lube:

Also do a bunch of solves, then try and take out the torpedoes and see if you like that feeling better (I do but some don't)!

Now go play! :)

u/mattgolt · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

That print does look rather large to me though. Lets assume it took 20h. I've assumed an average power consumption of 62 W [1].

Thus, the total print would require 1240 Wh.

The most commonly sold RC battery on offers 2200mAh at 11,1V which equals to 24,42 Wh per battery. [2] I'm pretty sure you can run a printer on 11,1V without a step-up converter. You would need 50 of those, and that is not going to fit the box that he packed at 0:23.


u/fresh1134206 · 5 pointsr/Unexpected

If you want to learn how to fly drones, start with one that doesn't have FPV. This way you'll know how to fly it if your monitor goes out.

I recently got the "UDI U818A". It's a great learner, easy to fly and takes crashes well. It's around 16 inches diagonally, so a little big for indoors. That's never stopped me though. You can get one on Amazon for around $50 usd.

A smaller option is the "Hubsan X4". I haven't flown this particular quad, but I'm probably going to order one this week. It has great reviews, and is only about 6 inches across diagonally. Great for indoors. Again, Amazon has them for around $50 $30 usd.

I suggest starting with one of these. Get good, then move up to something more expensive with FPV.

Edit: Links and such

UDI U818A $49.23 + Free Shipping

Hubsan X4 H107L (no camera) $33.95

Hubsan X4 H107C (camera) $29.99 + Free Shipping

Do some digging and look for deals. You may be able to find cheaper prices. I got my U818A for $28 + Free Shipping on a Lightning Deal.

u/Raider1284 · 5 pointsr/Multicopter

Im sure its fine, but its super overpriced. Effectively looks like a syma x1 with a fancy, heavy frame over it.

Get the syma x1 for $35 or the hubsan x4:

u/porksmash · 5 pointsr/diydrones

I think the CrazyFlie is one of the worst options, honestly. It's expensive and requires a computer and gamepad. It might be a good option if you're into computer based control, but if you just want to fly around then there are a few others you could go with. I haven't seen many kits at this size but there are a lot of prebuilt/ready to fly options:

u/docmongre · 5 pointsr/Multicopter

These were $40 at Radio Shack. Get one from there or your local hobby shop, practice with it until you get good, then head back to your local hobby shop, walk up to the guy at the counter and say "I have $160 and I've been practicing with a Hubsan. What's a good model I can upgrade to?"


u/Oberonson · 5 pointsr/Quadcopter

Great! But seriously before you build your QAV, go buy a cheap "beater" quadcopter that you can learn to fly on. Fpv is hard and will be even harder if you begin not knowing how to fly at all. Go buy what everyone recommends: the Hubsand X4. When you can crash on your first flight it'll be with a 40 dollar quad instead of a $300+ build.

Hubsan X4 (H107L) 4 Channel 2.4GHz RC Quadcopter, Black

u/mike413 · 5 pointsr/Quadcopter

There are 4 models, the h107c has two versions
H107L - no camera
H107C - two versions - vga and HD/720p
H107D - fpv version with display on remote
there are also hubsan-specific add-on goggles for the H107D that plug into the remote

u/anonworkacct · 5 pointsr/AskElectronics

I assume you don't have an electrical engineering background and just want something you can buy?

Note: Below is not guaranteed to be perfects/correct, just some cursory research for you because I was in the mood.

Parrot AR Drone 2.0 uses a 2000mAh 11.1v (3S) LiPo.

It looks like the Power Pot outputs 5V to USB and there are usb LiPo chargers, but they look like they're all only for 3.7v (1S) cells.

I don't know what kind of "solar batteries" you have. If the solar bits can output at 11-18V, you could combine it with something like this to charge the LiPo. If not, you can also purchase and bring a panel with you that can output at that range.

Battery is 22.2Watt-hours.

Looking at Kathmandu, you get ~5.37kWh/m²/day. With the 14W version of the linked panel, assuming 50% charge efficiency on a bright and sunny day pointed right at the sun, you'd get ~37Wh/day. Assuming it's spread across 12 hours of daylight evenly and you track the sun (alright this is a bit of a BS assumption, but insolation values are usually a little low so we'll hope it evens out) you'd be able to charge a battery in about 7.2 hours. Shell out for the 28W version and you'd be able to do it in ~3.6 hours.

The charger and panel linked aren't necessarily the best or best value, just the first 2 I found. Don't hold me to my calculations, they could be completely wrong but can give you a rough idea.

Another consideration, depending on the length of your trip. If you get the 28W version and the charger linked, you're spending about $200 and you can get maybe 2 fully charged flights/day. It looks like spare batteries can be had for ~$20 and LiPos self-discharge at <5%/month. You could buy 10 at the same price and not have to worry about charging.

If you go with this approach, buy and test it out early.

u/Aranii1187 · 5 pointsr/sffpc
u/Sierra419 · 4 pointsr/fpvracing

Buy cheap and buy twice. Save your money and get good stuff. The extra money you'll spend will be less in the long run when you factor in having to upgrade all of your current equipment when you start getting serious and realizing you shouldn't have gone cheap.

  • Do you want a monitor? For that price you can do a DIY goggle system which is much more immersive.

  • That camera isn't great (especially considering the best camera you can buy is only $35) and that VTX transmits too hot to be used in a race. You can get a 200mw ImmersionRC VTX for ~$30. If you wanted to spend a little more you could get the TBS Unify Pro or TBS Unify Pro HV (the newest version which has a built in regulator) which, on top of other nice features, lets you adjust the output mW between 25-200-500-800

  • I always recommend the Alien 5' frame first and the QAV 250 second. If you don't want to spend $100 more dollars on a frame - I don't blame you, but you get what you pay for. You can buy clones that have lesser quality or stick with the one you have picked out. Keep in mind, the Rotor Riot edition frame I linked to includes a lot of nice extras that you'll end up needing during your build - zip ties, ratched ties, foam padding, heat shrink, wires, etc.

  • Those motors are small. Depending on if you want to race or if you're just looking to fly casually, you'll need to double your motor budget and get something bigger that can deliver more power. The best motors out right now for price and performance is the Emax 2205 2300kv (aka "Red Bottom") motors. They also happened to be recently added to the Rotor Riot store and match the red anodized screws of the Rotor Riot Alien Frame

  • Naze 32 is a popular board. If I'm not mistaken this is an F1 board and most people have/are migrating to F3 boards. I would consider an F3 board since it has better features and faster calculating speeds. Popular F3 sized flight controllers are the Tornado, LUX, or the SP Racing F3 boards. I personally use the KISS flight controller and matching KISS 24a ESCs which are the best of the best and 100% worth it.

  • The Props are good but you'll want to go with a 5040 or a 5045 for that size quad. 5x4x3 is preferred by many, but this is completely personal preference and tri-blade props will break more often. However, props are really cheap. Gemfam is pretty good, but HQ is higher end. Lumenier just released their own line of props I'd like to check out. Most Lumenier stuff is really good quality.

  • The best receiver you can get right now is very inexpensive. I wouldn't recommend any other receiver or transmitter combo no matter how you're planning to fly or what you're planning to do. The Taranis X9D Plus and X4R w SBUS are the only TX and RX on the market for FPV worth buying. Anything else is a waste of money and a complete shame. The TX is the last one you'll ever buy no matter how far you go into the hobby and the matching RX is the best money can buy right now and it's only $25.

  • Those ESCs are very, very dated. Not many people use 12a ESCs anymore and if you ever plan on competing you won't get very far with these 12a Afros. At least get the 20A Afros if you're sold on the brand. If there's anywhere on your quad you don't want to go cheap - it's the ESCs, Motors, and Flight controller. For ESCs and Flight controller I recommend nothing but KISS (KISS flight controller and matching KISS 24a ESCs). Some people might diagree, most would argue there's better and cheaper alternatives, but hardly any would contest the fact that KISS is the best. It's what guys like FinalGlide and Steele use.

  • Batteries can be really confusing when you're starting out so I won't fault you there, but these batteries aren't what you're looking for. You want either a 1300mah or 1500mah. Most people consider the 1300mah size the sweet spot. On top of that, you'll want a 3s or 4s depending on how fast you want to go and how much power you want to have. 3s is getting really dated and most people are running 4s these days. The third thing you want to look for is the "C" rating (which isn't dependable anymore because of marketing). You want a battery with a high C rating which means your battery is capable of outputting large amounts of power without catching fire - something you need for FPV. I've never used these, but the Turnigy Nano batteries are a great price. For the price I'm thinking about getting a few and testing them, but I have a feeling this may be one of those situations where a brand is marketing a higher C rating than what the battery can actually output due to the price. However, I could be wrong and I'm sure it's a great battery for anyone starting out. Other high end batteries are the Lumeniers and Tattu.

  • Perfect antennas. These are what I use and you shouldn't use anything else. The next comparable set of antennas are TBS Triumph, but the ImmersionRC antennas have still been tested to be a hair more reliable.

    I was in the same boat as you. I only had roughly $700 to spend, and for me, that's a lot of money. I picked out most of the components you did and read reviews, watched videos, and did nothing but learn, learn, learn. After dozens of hours researching and learning new things, what I found is that if I wanted a drone that a) Flew good and b) was fast and c) was responsive - I was going to have to spend more and go quality. The adage "Buy cheap and buy twice" rings true in life and holds doubly true in this hobby. In the end, I decided to go the quality route. I ended up spending ~$475 on my quad and picking up a second job to pay for the TX and goggles. It's ultimately up to you, but if you want to freestyle, go fast, and end up racing. I would strongly recommend not going frugal in regards to your quad. It's what the vast majority of people told me not to do and, even though I spent way more, I'm glad I listened and built a top quality high end quad that's going to last.

    My Build:

    RotorRiot Alien 5' Frame


    EMAX 2205 2300KV (aka Red Bottoms)

    TBS Unify Pro HV

    HS1177 camera

    ImmersionRC Spironet Antennas

    HQ 5x4x3 Props

    Taranis X9D Transmitter and matching X4R Receiver
u/armintehgreat · 4 pointsr/sffpc

These have worked well from me, and are pretty small

u/BrideOfAutobahn · 4 pointsr/sffpc
u/joshellis625 · 4 pointsr/radiocontrol

First of all, I would never attach your cell phone to a helicopter (I doubt many--if any, could even hold it). They make cheap cameras that are made to attach to the bottom of RC helicopters. Go that route :)

Now I just sort've got into this hobby. I know very little but I can give you some advice.

There are 3 types of RC Helicopters:

-Coaxial = two sets of rotor blades (not including tail rotor) EASIEST AND CHEAPEST
-Fixed Pitch = single rotor with fixed blade pitch EASIER AND CHEAPER
-Collective Pitch = single rotor with controllable blade pitch HARDEST AND MOST EXPENSIVE

Those are also listed from easiest to hardest to fly. You can learn to fly a coaxial in like 20-30 minutes if that. Coaxial heli's will easily hover with little to no controller input as the gyro/accelerometer does all the work and dual rotors are inherently stable. A good first coaxial could be the Syma S107 @ $27. Feel free to skip to a fixed pitch heli if you are daring but with the Syma S107 being less than $30 you should still get it.

Fixed pitch heli's are an entirely different animal as I've recently learned. They are much less stable than a coaxial helicopter but not uncontrollable if you are patient and careful. The physics behind a FP heli is much different than a Coax. These heli's are also more powerful (usually) so be very gentle otherwise you'll be replacing parts even more so than you will normally. YOU WILL NEED TO BUY REPLACEMENT PARTS. YOU WILL CRASH. Keep in mind though, it's not completely terrifying :). Don't be afraid to learn. I love and recommend getting a Blade 120 SR @ $160-180. I just got one and I love it. It's so fun. It's so appealing to fly a single rotor heli because it's more realistic and challenging.

Finally, you have Collective Pitch helicopters. These are what the "pros" use. The rotor blades have a variable pitch that allows for very intense and tricky maneuvers. These are sometimes called 3D helicopters because (if you are skilled enough) can fly them upside down or any direction in between while zipping through the air. I don't know too much about them because I'm still learning to fly a fixed pitch heli. Do NOT start with one of these helicopters. The Blade 450 3D @ $470 is a common example of a Collective Pitch 3D helicopter. As you can see they are quite expensive.

Helicopter Cameras: EXAMPLE

TL;DR: Start with a coaxial (Syma S107) to learn. Then move up to a fixed pitch helicopter (Blade 120 SR). Buy lots of replacement parts/training gear/flight sim (optional). Get used to crashing. Don't fly too high at first. Have fun!

u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/videos

If you're a beginner, get the S107g. It's something like 85% off and I love every bit of it. It's very small and light, so you can only fly it inside, but still tons of fun. The rotors look a bit flimsy, but I've been smashing this thing into every wall in my house daily for the past three weeks and it's still doing pretty good.

u/TylerDurden52 · 4 pointsr/airguns
u/sandknot · 4 pointsr/Cubers

If you can buy this Traxxas 50k from amazon

If you only want to buy one tube of lube, buy 50k. It's the same as weight 5 on SCS but you get more for the price.

u/tinypixels1 · 4 pointsr/Cubers

If your just trying to find a lubricant for your speed cube. I think your better off with [traxxas 50k] ( Traxxas is good and plus its 10$.

If your settle on getting silicone spray. I heard you should get CRC silcone spray.

u/stiff_sock · 4 pointsr/gadgets

I bought one of these a few weeks ago and it's so much fun. Great gift. I'm ordering one for my boyfriend this week.

u/Shortsonfire79 · 4 pointsr/Multicopter

I highly suggest picking up something small and cheap that you can mess around with and learn the mechanics of multi flight while you figure everything else out. I personally like the Hubsan x4 and they also have one with a camera on it for a little extra. I should have started with the Hubsan (or other microquad) because I crashed my first build terribly which set me back several months of repair.

For your first bigger multi you could look into the Cinetanks if you're interested in zipping around (link is only to a frame, but they have suggested parts in the right sidebar). I've heard good things about the DJI Flamewheels.

What I've been doing as I get ready for my next multi is to look at the build logs section of the sub wiki. Gives me a good idea of what I'd like and what other people have done too. I also suggest checking the two forums on the sidebar (multi and rcg) The guys at Multirotor pretty much held my hand and walked me through my first build, which I'm really grateful for.

Good luck! And welcome. :D

u/ChinaMan28 · 4 pointsr/Multicopter

Well before you get to a 500 sized multirotor, Might I suggest something smaller and less spinning blades of death?

such as:

Once you get comfortable then you should move up...but if you are new, and don't know to much, you WILL wreck it.

u/FatalErection · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

For kids ages 8-12. Get them something remote controlled if they're boys. Just about every Christmas season JCPenny's sets out little remote helicopters for about $20. They're actually not bad for the price since I have about 3 just for myself. But my cousins went crazy over them last year. If you can't find them in store, and a bunch of other sites carry the Syma S107 for about $22.00. Great starter copter. Stay away from Air Hogs.

Little girls are harder for me. My only two female cousins, sister are easy; they basically tell me everything they want and where I need to go get it. And my sister does all the shopping for my mom and grandmother; I just hand over the money.

The one female (well male and female) I bought for on my own this year was my sisters best friend (my sister from a different mister) just got married this year. I took photos from her wedding, went to shutterfly and had a coffee table book made of pictures from their wedding. Basically a more professional looking scrap book. However, unless they're into photography, kids that age probably would not appreciate that.

As far as your female're on your own. You know her, I don't.

u/PokeyHokie · 3 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Came here to post this! They are tons of fun. Each of the grad students in my lab owns a set, and we have combined them to make some really sweet huge stuff!

We also have two of these in the lab:
Syma S107 Remote Control Helicopter. They're a TON of fun.

u/cripplehank · 3 pointsr/AskReddit
u/odd_affiliate_link · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

RC cars are fun to play with. I got an RC18 a while back and it is a blast to bash around. If you want, you can get really into upgrading / modifying them. I kept mine stock, to avoid dumping too much money into it!

Edit: If you want something cheaper, this helicopter is pretty rad.

u/sbmike83 · 3 pointsr/gamedev

I'm working on a 3D game engine for controlling electronics.

Just finished a filming session driving my robot around with this screen.

Working on a lot of shader stuff and working on a new screen for controlling model helicopters with touch screens.

u/Hoe_Dameron · 3 pointsr/ActionFigures

It's is really great. Careful with the hip joints. Hit em with some heat and then put a drop of this in there. Keeps them from catching but doesn't make them loose. Love these figures.

Traxxas 1666 Silicone Shock Oil

u/Massawyrm · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Yeah, making your own at home is pretty easy to do. I've done it many times over the years. Requires a standard color printer, Decal paper, and a can of clear coat. $20 worth of materials will net you 6 pages of decals.

u/SomeGnosis · 3 pointsr/rccars

If you have a printer, you can do anything!

u/gimmick243 · 3 pointsr/Cubers

I'd recommend Traxxas 50k You can usually get it for pretty cheap at a local Hobby RC store or here on amazon

u/Gigglingbuns · 3 pointsr/Cubers

If you don't wanna buy the Traxxas 50k at a hobby store you can get a 2oz bottle (60cc) for about $7 which is cheap.

Since you have all the different "weights" I can tell you will need to test them to see which one matches your style, then after that naturally you will be narrowed down to a few lubricants maybe even 2-3, as you will see what fits or doesn't. Traxxas lubricants are cheap and the standard bottle is 60cc for about $7 on Amazon and $5 to a online hobby store I use. However cubicle lubricants are still useful but if you need a wallet friendly alternative then Traxxas is the way to go. However I always recommend a bottle of 50k around you it's pretty much universal. Alot of people just lube the core of their cube with 50k, lube 4x4's with 50k (when you break it in it feels amazing), and 2x2's.

30k, and 50k and some thin weights is all you ever honestly need and since your getting Lubicle Speedy, you won't need 10k, but yea. Goodluck

That's my 2 cents.

u/niknik2121 · 3 pointsr/Cubers

Traxxas 50k is one of the most common differential oils that is used on cubes. Lubix is a differential oil with a huge markup. You don't need much lube at all to get one properly lubed. CBC did a video on how to lube a cube, it's a Zhanchi but you can apply the same thing to all cubes.

u/ParadoxWatermelon · 3 pointsr/Cubers

No, this is what many people use for cubes. It works great and it is a lot less expensive than other lubes. It is meant for plastic parts on RC cars, so it is completely silicone based. This weight is not reasonable for cubes, so many people use 50k weight. You can get some here.

Edit: Also, the 500k is going to be extremely viscous, don't use it for cubes. This person is doing it for fun, not to improve their cube.

u/LordGoji · 3 pointsr/Cubers

Both can be great cubes. What is your preference? The Shuang Ren is a much dryer, faster feeling cube, while the AoLong is a smooth, clicky feeling puzzle. Performance wise, the AoLong is a better cube, but a Shuang Ren is better for people who prefer a cube that feels slightly more stable.

Oh, and for lube, Traxxas 50k weight Differential oil. Buy a syringe like this one and use it to apply the lube. Hope I helped!

Edit: You may want to visit this page to consider other possible options. There's a world of cubes out there.

u/MattDmann · 3 pointsr/Cubers

I personally only use Traxxas 50k, I got a medium sized bottle a couple years ago, and haven't even used half of it. Really good, makes cubes smooth, and was great on my GTS2M

u/DrinkMe101 · 3 pointsr/Cubers

I'd say all you need in life is this traxxas kit. it'll last like 5 years. 50k, 30k, and 10k. 150cc's total


u/topppits · 3 pointsr/Cubers

Get this and you don't have to worry for a long time:

Though most of the time you can get this for ~22€.

u/corinmcblide · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

get this one. its a great little electric heli that uses dual rotors to keep it stabilized and it can fly for like 5-8 minutes. it can also take a lot of abuse and crash from 20 ft and not break

u/Race_Red · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

That thing looks awesome. How did it fly? My first "multirotor" was this micro heli that I got it from Amazon in 2012 when they were first starting to put gyros in the micros. The little guy still flies really great too. Since I've watched quadcopter tech advance so quickly I wonder how much better the helis have become since 2012. I haven't heard anything about them in recent years. I'll have to look into them and see if they've gotten into FPV now.

u/justarandomgeek · 3 pointsr/technology

Every thermoelectric device I've seen consumes a pretty significant amount of power (~20W on one of the ones I've played with, which the one pictured looks very similar to). A LiPoly pack that can do that for an hour (with a suitable converter in between, I'm assuming ~80% efficiency) would need to be ~24Wh, for a 3-cell pack (nominal voltage 11.1V) this is ~2200mAh. Here is an example of a pack that can do that. The article also says they run it 5s on, 10s off, which would approximately triples that runtime to 3 hours (followed by ~4-5 hours charging, based on nearly identical packs I have for various things).

That said, the batteries shown in the article look more like a 2-cell pack of approximately 1100mAh (hard to guess though, since I can't see the pack fully), so they're either running much less power to the TECs than their upper limit, or they're not running it for very long (~1 hour).

So, it needs a decent sized battery, but if you only want to run it for a couple hours, it probably won't be too bad.

u/baddox · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

I used to recommend the Syma X1, and it's what I started with before building my first tricopter. However, I think there has been a lot of progress with the flight controllers in these mini quads. My Syma X1 feels very sluggish now.

I would spend a bit more and get a Hubsan x4.

u/hdsrob · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

Has he ever flown anything?

If not then the stock answer is to go with one of the "toy" quads. They are fairly inexpensive, very durable, and replacement parts are plentiful and cheap for the inevitable crashes. Once he gets the hang of that, then he can move up to something that's more powerful, and expensive.

Don't be fooled by the size, these are still fairly tough to get the hang of flying, and are really great fun. Most can be flown indoors as well.

The Hubsan H107 gets recommended quite a bit (I own one, and it's been great).

With that you'd want to get both the prop guard, and the crash kit.

The Syma X1 gets a lot of recommendations as well:

And there's the Estes Proto X (I don't see many recommendations for this, but have seen it mentioned in other places quite a bit):

I'm sure there are more that I'm missing, but I'm sure others will chime in.

u/mkv_ug · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

That cable is used to update the firmware on the transmitter. You'll need a simulator cable, like this, to play on FPVFreerider.

u/Naomarius · 3 pointsr/TinyWhoop
u/rsc75 · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

Those hubsan multi-chargers are hit and miss. Some are great, some aren't. It's nearly impossible to tell which brand is good or not. If you're willing to spend a some more money on a solid charger, get the Hitec X4 micro ac/dc charger.

u/bsmith0 · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

Your best bet is it start with something like this then when you get comfortable flying, you can build a FPV 250 for ~ $600-$1000.

u/oh_lord · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

Assuming you saw one on the set for some film stuff, I assume you're interested in a more AP-style rig like a DJI product. Most of the people here are more interested in a DIY "racing/freestyle" FPV miniquad, a smaller, mostly carbon fibre build that's intended to be fast, responsive, and an immersive flying experience. So, your first decision is whether you're after a more casual photography rig or a quicker, racing quad.

In either case, most of the other comments seem to say "buy something small and cheap and start learning", and I'll second that advice. Most of us here fly "FPV", wearing goggles that show us what a small camera on board broadcast. Before you can do that though, you need to learn the basics of flight, ideally "line of sight", without the goggles.

The Hubsan gets recommended a lot (H107L) because it was one of the best, cheap quads out there. They're $32 on Amazon and are a good starting point. Make sure to grab some extra propellers and a couple more batteries, flight time is about 5 minute of casual hovering.

For a little less though, I cannot recommend the Eachine H8 Mini enough. It's smaller, a little more responsive, and just as durable. Once you're more familiar with the basics of flight, too, you can try out "rate" (manual, no auto-leveling) mode with this one too for about $10 and some time flashing firmware.

From there, once you get used to the basics of control, you can start adding in cameras and goggles and practicing FPV. Eventually, you can work your way up to a larger miniquad.

And always feel free to ask more questions if you have them!


u/firm1 · 3 pointsr/remotesensing

You can definitley do this with a mid size quad and gopro/small point and shoot. I personally don't like the wide angle of the gopro. I mainly use mine for mapping and find the wide angle causes excessive warping/distortion. One thing to consider would be a Canon point and shoot. They are pretty cheap and can run CHDK which lets you do a lot of cool things like remote triggering, running scripts, saving raw files etc...That is what I currently use and it works well.

As for the quad choice the phantom is a pretty basic platform that will do what you want. I haven't flown one, but my understanding is they are pretty easy in stabilize mode. I haven't personally flown this either but I have a kit that is running a similar flight controller/software and I really like it. It has a bit more functionality than a phantom, but will probably take a bit more effort to set up as well.

Either way I would suggest getting a small toy quad to learn first. The Hubsan is great learner. It is much better to crash one of these than an expensive phantom/camera set up. Plus you can fly this inside as well. Also check out /r/Multicopter. There is a lot of good info there.

u/bulbufet · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

This is what I have, and what many people in this sub will tell you to get.

You would be safe also getting the crash pack:

Very small very fun and very easy to learn nn. I've had mine for over a year now and I still fly it every couple days.

u/_brodre · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

may i recommend you and your friends pool 45 dollars and have the time of your lives with a hubsan x4 H107L

u/RmJack · 3 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

These are neat novelty, but personally i think getting him a hubson x4 would be better, its not a fixed wing, but there super fun and a great intro rc quad copter.

u/XYrZbest · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

I was going to get this one I don't think I really need a camera. is there a way I could add one later if i wanted to. Should i get this crash pack or should i just get more batteries?

u/lpabmendez · 3 pointsr/djiphantom

Get a cheap small quadcopter to practice / crash / practice. Learning to fly well is the best way to prevent damage to your phantom. Also, learn to fly well in atti mode (no GPS help)

Some people feel that the propeller protectors ( ) can cause vortex ring state and could cause a crash. ( DJI Phantom 2 - Prop Guards explained. - Also T…: ) I personally fly with out them. It saves weight and makes you fly more cautiously.

***Download and read this 50 page manual!... Read it twice!! Everything you need to know about the Phantom2 V+

Watch phantom crash YouTube videos and figure out why they crashed, learn from it.

u/Probably3rd · 3 pointsr/Nerf

I use a SkyRC iMax B6AC v2
One advantage over the accucell 6 charger is that you can plug directly into an AC outlet without an adapter. It's a bit more pricey, however.

u/-INFEntropy · 3 pointsr/airsoft


No cords needed.

u/The_Geoff · 3 pointsr/sffpc

I use these. They are tiny but work well, my router is on the floor above me and I've never had a problem with these

u/Zolor23 · 3 pointsr/sffpc

These are the ones I use on my Gigabyte Aorus B450i mobo - 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RPSMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter

Works very well

u/ikjadoon · 3 pointsr/sffpc

I used these:

Makerfire 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RP-SMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter

Way better than the standard ASRock one on my Z370 Fatal1ty and much smaller, too. Don’t ask me how that’s possible. 😂

5GHz is especially good with these. Ask me tomorrow and I’ll check what my link speeds are, if it’ll help. FWIW, I’m behind a 6’ tall mirror and two interior walls, plus a hallway. In total, maybe ~25 feet away from a Synology RT-2600ac with both bands active on a 100Mbps Spectrum package.

u/Twigman · 3 pointsr/sffpc

I ended up buying these tiny antennas from Amazon. Performance has been the same as the stock antenna so far, but my PC is in the same room as my router so signal strength isn't really a problem for me. Aesthetically, they are perfect in that they are so tiny as to be basically hidden amongst the cables plugged in the back.

u/OmenLW · 2 pointsr/DIY

I got the L. It was around $50. Actually, lemme grab the link.

Are you sitting me. I coulda got one with a camera for $10 more!?!?!

u/eviljolly · 2 pointsr/drones

Something like this will get the job done.

You can also get a charger that you'd use for larger LiPos, but things get a more complicated since you'll need to learn about parallel and balance charging. I wouldn't go this route unless you know what you're getting into.

The tldr of 1S LiPo like you have. Stop flying somewhere between 3.6 and 3.8V. Store batteries at 3.85V or as close as you can get them. Storing batteries full is dangerous and bad for them, and storing them at low voltage can hurt them too.

u/ComesWithTheFall · 2 pointsr/videos

Here is about what I spent:

Edit: Table format

link | Frame | Lumenier QAV-R 5 | $107.75
link | Motors | EMAX RS2205 2300KV | $76.99
link | ESCs | Littlebee 20A PRO | $49.99
link | Flight Controller | MotoLab Cyclone F3 | $40.69
link | Radio Tx | FrSky Taranis X9D Plus | $211.37
link | Radio Rx | Frsky XSR | $26.74
link | Headset | Fatshark Attitude V3 | $331.99
link | FPV Tx | ImmersionRC 600MW 5.8 | $48.98
link | FPV Antennas | Aomway | $15.00
link | FPV Camera | Foxeer XAT600M | $48.88
link | HD Camera | Yi | $100.00
link | Charger | SkyRC iMax B6AC V2 | $49.97

There may be a part or two missing. The links may or may not still be good, this is from ~4 months ago. Take out the headset, HD camera, and other FPV stuff and the cost drops by $545. These are also all high-end parts.

Edit2: Some Youtube subs

u/NlightNme23 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

>Next question is controllers and goggles.

If you're not on a tight budget, the best things to get would be the FatShark Dominator V3's (goggles), and the FrSky Taranis X9D Plus (transmitter). You'll find it hard to find someone to argue against either of those.

Aside from that, for the receiver get a FrSky D4R-ii, and run it in PPM mode. For batteries, I used 1300mah 3s at first, and moved to 1300mah 4s once I wanted to take the training wheels off.

Edit: I also got a D4R-ii mount and a GoPro mount. You will break the D4R-ii mount eventually, so I recommend getting 2. The last thing you would need (if you don't have) is a LiPo charger, and maybe a parallel charging board if you want to charge all of your batteries at once.

Once you have all of that + your Vortex, you are ready to go.

u/Landoperk · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I use an [imax b6] ( with a parralel charging board. / Amazon link
This particular charger has a heavy counterfeit presence online though so it's important to make sure it's a genuine SkyRC charger if you decide to go down that road. Avoid ebay and the likes. The Amazon link above is the real deal for reference.

u/TacoDaTugBoat · 2 pointsr/rccars

In the true spirit of the hobby, you should dump some cash in these. But really:

LiPo charger - $48 - Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps, 50Watts): LiPo, LiHV, LiIon, LiFe, NiCd, NiMH, Pb Lead Acid AC/DC Professional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Discharger (Version 2) w/ Micro USB Port, Temperature Port, 2S-6S JST-XH Balance Ports

2 batteries - $29 ea - Gens ace LiPo Battery Pack 5000mAh 50C 2S 7.4V HardCase 21 with Deans T Plug for RC Car Boat Truck Roar Approved

2 brushless combos - $43 ea. - GoolRC 3650 3100KV/4P Sensorless Brushless Motor with 60A Brushless ESC(Electric Speed Controller)for 1/10 RC Car Truck

2 2.4ghz tx rx bundles - $38 ea - FLYSKY RC 3 CH Transmitter TX FS-GT3B For CAR Boat 2.4Ghz 2.4g w/ Receiver

So at $280 they would both be fully up to date with lower end electronics. The sky is the limit.

u/grizokz · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

i had a knock off fail that had an internal power supply, just wouldn't turn on after a week of use(clone of:

fan can also get noisy over time - oiling it helps

u/xiotaki · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Whichever one you get make sure it comes with a build in power supply. I overlooked that when I bought mine and now I'm stuck with having an extra brick laying around just to give power to the lipo charger. I mean it's so inconvinient, I'm surprised non power supply models are even a thing.

Here is my suggestion:

u/nfavor · 2 pointsr/rccars

As far as MaH vs 2s, 3s, etc. MaH will give you longer run times. All things being equal a 5000 MaH will last 25% longer than a 4000 MaH.

The difference between 2s and 3s is that 3s will have 50% more voltage because it uses 3 lipo cells instead of 2 cells. This will make your car go faster. The tradeoff is that 3s batteries are more expensive and as you're going faster, you're going to be more likely to break parts on the truck.

I'd recommend the SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2. It's also 6 amps but will do storage charge and it has a USB port if you want to hook it up to your computer. For about the same money, it has some better features. Just make sure it has the battery connector you need or else get an adapter for a few bucks.

Batteries I don't have a good recommendation. You'll need to get the dimensions of the battery tray and find something that fits or just find out what other Slash owners use and buy that. (Hobbyking has a really nice battery finder based on dimensions but I know you only want to use Amazon.)

u/dabluebunny · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Imax for about 40$ can charge and do everything you could ever want a charger to do for any battery. Do not even attempt to use your other charger. A 23minute video I made for lipos for /r/airsoft

Link for charger with the power supply 53$ worth every penny. I have over 20 different chargers myself. I can find you what you need let me know your budget. I will link more.

This charger and this power supply ~35$ best choice. Power supply is external and tou have to buy it seperate but the same thing as the first and cheaper. Pm me with questions I will point you in the right direction so hard you won't stray off. This is the shit I know the most. This is my jam. Lol

u/mfinn999 · 2 pointsr/rccars

I don't have a lot of experience with 2 stick controllers, I found the FlySky FS-i6 for $50:

This is way over kill for what you need, but my quick search did not find any cheap 2 channel stick controllers. If the Vaporizr has a separate receiver, you can replace it, otherwise, if you get a different controller, you will need to get 2 small ESC's as well. That's why I recommended modding the existing controller. You MIGHT be able to find another controller that works on the same radio channel/frequency that uses the same control scheme that is physically larger, but that will involve a lot of searching and trial and error.

u/boostedvolvo · 2 pointsr/radiocontrol

I would recommend this radio to start, I have had it for over a year, and I’m not close to outgrowing it yet. FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel Transmitter

As far as servos are concerned, you can use the super cheap blue 9 gram servos, as they are almost disposable, but I would recommend the metal gear mg90s servos. Nothing more frustrating than landing wrong and accidentally stripping a Servo.

Here are the blue servos:

And here are The mg90s:

u/jaifriedpork · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I think there's only one FPV kit specifically for the X5, but it's a drop-in replacement for the stock camera, which is nice. It's heavier, and the quad is a bit of a pig with it mounted, but it still flies pretty well; you just can't fly as fast, and definitely can't come in as hot when you land. Also note that it didn't really say the exact tx power, but it's almost certainly over 25 mW, so expect to get your ham ticket if you want to be law-abiding and/or want to join the cool kids over at /r/amateurradio.

This is what I bought, though you might find it a little cheaper elsewhere.

u/tvfd218 · 2 pointsr/Quadcopter
u/FearMeIAmRoot · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

You can get a 5.8GHz FPV system for the Syma x5c.

I purchased this last month for mine. The screen is very bright, even outdoors. Camera is about the same quality as the 2.0MP/720p that comes with the x5c (slower exposure compensation, slightly sharper image).

Here's footage I took the other day [from the camera] *(Removed link since it's from my own YouTube channel. PM me if you want the link).

I highly recommend it for a beginner/trainer quad. Under $130 all in for the quad, FPV and extra batteries.

u/Hard_at_it · 2 pointsr/Quadcopter

Not going to be the best but very available - Syma X5C-1 - Banggood/Gearbest/Amazon/Aliexpress.

You can get a very basic 5.8ghz FPV setup going with and - Its Toy grade but can get you started on an expensive hobby.

u/Br0den_ · 2 pointsr/Multicopter
u/taranp1995 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

something like theses if you have the money

u/SteelCogs · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Well that mostly depends on budget. I got this Eachine Wizard x220 a few days ago, but I got the bind & fly version since I already have a radio. This thing is GREAT, my main quad I built about a month ago needs to be tuned and I didn't have time to today so I flew this instead for all of my flights and it is SHARP. The RTF version (the one I linked) comes with everything you need to fly but you'd also need goggles like FatSharks if you're willing to spend a lot on goggles or Eachine VR007's if you want something cheaper to start out on FPV with. I started with the Eachine's and they work fine, but after awhile the size will start to get annoying with no DVR and some other bells and whistles FatSharks have (I just got FatSharks a couple days ago and they're great!). And of course you would need a camera. The first GoPro session does 1080p60fps and it's only $200 so you'd be under $500. I'm not 100% sure this comes with a battery too though so you'd want a few extra 4S 1300mAh batteries and a charger for them (lot's of different options here so these are the batteries I use and here is the charger I use ). Just make sure you get batteries with an "XT60" connector and your charger has an XT60 charging cable. Here's a great video made by a fellow r/Multicopter user on how to safely charge LiPo batteries. They are no joke!

Anyway this is a GREAT quad to start with, the only downside to it IMO is that it uses the "FlySky" radio transmitter and receiver which is not that great. I started out with a different version of the one this has and my first quad lost signal and smashed face first into concrete from over 50 feet up. Luckily most components on these are tough as nails so it's a cheap fix, I just had to replace a GoPro lens (GET LENS PROTECTORS!) and a couple small parts. Anyway, I believe the radio in this one is a newer version that has had way less problems than mine, so if you get it maybe just range test low and over grass or something before going crazy?

If you want to watch a review of this quad, here's a great review made by u/uavfutures (same guy that did the LiPo video), who convinced me to buy it and I wasn't disappointed.

One more thing...have you ever flown a quad before or flown FPV? If not you may want to pick up a Blade Inductrix FPV and some goggles to get the basic idea down before you spend money on something you don't know how to fly. If you have any more questions let me know!

u/ItsKilovex · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Some really popular LiPos that a lot of the pilots use are:

Tattu 4S 1300mAh 75C

Lumenier 4S 1300mAh 60C

Thunder Power Adrenaline 1300mAh 4S 80C

u/siggy2xc · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I was looking for a 4S with a high discharge rating, ordered 6 of these this morning. Tattu LiPo Battery Pack 1300mAh 75C 4S

u/jon_jon27 · 2 pointsr/Tallahassee

So the kits are nice and fly out of the box and are super expensive. If you're interested and not sure you want to do it I would say go and purchase a cheaper but versatile radio like this one-

Once you have one you can use the online simulators or on Steam to get stick time in. Later, you can build your own. It's really not as hard as it sounds just need to solder really. Plus, WHEN you break it (you will) you will know exactly how to fix and trouble shoot. Check out this guys vids- he has a full parts list in the description.

I used to be a fixed wing drone pilot in the military. Some of the guys I worked with competed in the world class series quad and RC flier circuits. I say lets do it and start a FPV Tally Racing League!

Radio -> Sim -> Build -> Learn to Fly LOS w/o FPV -> buy crap entry goggles -> Go pod racin' at Tom Brown!

u/XephexHD · 2 pointsr/Quadcopter

Yep, the DIY is entirely solder based. Its literally basic aeronautical/electronic engineering when designing a quad. The thing is they break pretty easy with beginners flying and doing the building, let alone a bunch of kids.

If your going to do this I would recommend looking into tiny whoops for the kids to get into. They are super cheap and can be modified almost to the scale of a full miniquad except on a much smaller scale. They can be fully tuned and modified as heavily as you want and the kids would get the basic concept of how a quadcopter works. You can just buy all the parts for them and teach them how to assemble them. Assembly requires no soldering unless your installing a camera or new power connectors. They are super fun for beginners and can be built pretty tough. They don't go super fast but they can be modified heavily to make them zip, which makes them safe yet fun. They don't hold up amazing outside, but they do pretty good. Since they are so small you can make super fun indoor tracks with loops for them to fly though. Just flying around a house becomes a big jungle gym when your that small.

For tiny whoops you really just need the following parts
Frame - This frame is not designed for the whoops, but with a couple snips of the battery holder and some foam inserts it becomes one of the best. Its also cheap...

Flight controller These flight controllers will give you the functionality of full mini quad running betaflight. This will allow you to fully configure and tune them on your computer allowing you an opportunity to teach them how a flight controller works. I would recommend looking up Joshua Bardwell's youtube channel and looking at his PID tuning classes. I won't get into the details but PID (proportional integral derivative) tuning is the mathematical filtering your flight controller is doing behind the scenes. Your flight controller is taking in information from its measurement devices (acceloromiter, gyroscope, and sometimes even barometers) and running it against the values you give it to check for divergence of error from the desired values and compensating for it by applying filters. Basically it allows you to make your quadcopter fly the way you want it to fly. You can make it fly loosy goose or like an automated robot and almost every quadcopter made uses this type of system behind the scenes. Do note that the larger the quad the more you can work with in terms of the software controlling the system. These tiny whoops can be locked in with tuning but you have to remember they still only weigh like 10 grams.

Motors These motors are the best in the sense of range of performance. If you got some of these sample packs you can mix and match motors to show what a motor with higher kv does compared to one thats lower. Higher kv on these motors = more power but more power draw and less flight time. This is also effected by the propellers you are using.

Props The frame comes with some props but you can lose them pretty easy. Nothing really special about these but they get the job done. Also it helps to chop off two of the blades on each prop to make them more efficient for a little power loss.

Extras-- I don't know if your looking to get into fpv with the kids but the whoops are able to support a small camera and you can fly them with with either a monitor or goggles. This stuff can be found on tiny whoops website or youtube. If you need any help selecting stuff feel free to message me.

Other necessities--
Radio Your gonna need a radio and I'm not sure how to make this cheaper. Radios are really just something most people only buy one of and they spare no expense if they use it a lot. The only cheaper radio on the market that is worth looking at is the flysky radios, but I'm not sure if they would work with the acrowhoop board. You have to have an frsky radio for a frsky board or a spektrum radio for a spektrum board for these.

This got kinda long so I'm gonna cut it here. If you need any help just let me know.

u/WombatControl · 2 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

Can you do this? I came out with a build for $206 with some decent parts:

FC: (this is not a great one, but it will do)
ESCs: (32 bit ones even - very future-proof, but quality could be iffy)
Motors: (these are really great motors for the price. You can get cheaper, but these are worth it)
Frame: (this is a great frame and very roomy for a first-time build.)
Radio: (the FlySky bundle)

Total: $206.78

Here's why I wouldn't do this, though. First, that radio. It's not a great radio. Why buy that when for a couple of bucks more you can order a Taranis X7? The Taranis will be the ONLY radio you will likely ever need for a long time. Not only does it run FrSky, which is the best radio system out there, but it has a module bay that you can use for DSM/toy grade stuff, etc. Yes, Amazon's price is way too high for this, but your radio is not something that I'd cheap out on. When you're talking a $40 difference for something that will not be very expandable versus one of the best radios ever made, I'd go for the Taranis.

The other big drawback - your budget is gone, and you don't have a battery, charger, etc. You also have no spare props, and you will need lots of props if you're flying.

Plus, IMHO, flying a 250-size line-of-sight isn't much fun. That's in large part due to my crappy eyesight, but if I'm close enough to have a clear view of my orientation I'm too close for comfort. I've seen some AMAZING LOS flying before, but it's just not my cup of tea.

If you want to stick with Amazon and about $200, here's an option:


Total: $194.98 - ready to fly, with battery and basic charger.

Here's why I think the Whoop is a better choice: you can crash a Whoop and have a much smaller chance of breaking something expense. They're fun to fly both LOS and FPV. This one runs Betaflight so you can get used to that software. Replacement parts are cheap. If it's raining, you can fly. You can fly at night. You can fly in your kitchen. You can annoy the living daylights out of your pets. You can fly around your kids without worrying about them catching a prop and getting hurt.

Did I mention Whoops are FUN?

Plus, you have a transmitter that you will keep using for a long time, not one that's basically a small step up from toy grade.

The downside is that you're not really building it yourself, although if you get the desire to do so you can upgrade a piece at a time for really cheap.

If you really want to build a larger quad, you're going to have more luck on a site like Banggood where your money will stretch farther. Amazon is much better with quad parts, but they're still charging a premium and selection is spotty.

u/dreadrockstar · 2 pointsr/sffpc

I use ones that are used for drones. My gigabyte z390 mini itx has the the connectors close too. 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna...

No problem with antennas at all. I mostly use Ethernet so wasn’t concerned about the look. Good luck.

u/cmr8305 · 2 pointsr/Frugal

You should check out this remote-controlled helicopter for about $20. I just got one to give away, felt compelled to test it out and it is awesome!

u/xrstunt · 2 pointsr/radiocontrol

They're all over Amazon, this is the first link: . And for the record, this and all small coax helis will not lift ANY weight. Maybe a penny or 2 tied underneath (at the center of gravity).

u/Padna33 · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

A Mini RC helicopter. Best $20 ever spent.

u/NaturalLogofOne · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Fun Toy that's not expensive. I have one and it's ridiculously fun:

Other Gifts: In thinking back on gifts I've really enjoyed from my dad, I would say books that he really loved and got for me. Even though I didn't read some of them until years later, I eventually was so glad I got them and we've talked about them on numerous occasions. One that comes to mind was Asimov's Foundation.

But also, helicopter. Fun!

u/IHopeTheresCookies · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

I have this and it's big brother. I did manage to break a blade on the larger one but I found replacements for about $12. The little has more flexible blades so it doesn't seem like they'll break as easily, also it seems to handle better. It's actually much easy to fly / control than the bigger.

u/merreborn · 2 pointsr/radiocontrol

The s107 is persistently cheap on amazon

The price actually went up to $25+ around christmas time but it sits at under $22 the rest of the year from what I've seen.

u/fleminator · 2 pointsr/nintendo

Yep, pretty standard for that type of helicopter.

u/Fittitor · 2 pointsr/DoesAnybodyElse

I bought myself an RC helicopter for Christmas this year. I'm 29.

I was shopping online when I stumbled across one for ~$20. It got pretty bad reviews, but I found one on amazon that had great reviews, was good for indoors, and was only ~$35.

Was initially going to get it for a roommate, but decided to get them more practical gifts. I still wanted to play with that helicopter though, so I added it on as a gift to myself. Arrived yesterday, but I'm waiting until Saturday to open it. =D

u/ferminriii · 2 pointsr/AskReddit
u/KojiGritton · 2 pointsr/ActionFigures

Silicone shock oil. Just a little bit in the area you're wanting to loosen. Have used this stuff on my Articulated Icons ninjas.

Traxxas 1666 Silicone Shock Oil

u/idrinkbeerwhileifish · 2 pointsr/Cubers

Just today I bought this 30k oil. Really cheap, 100% silicone, and on Amazon Prime.

u/OldMetalShip · 2 pointsr/MiddleEarthMiniatures

It's possible, just very very difficult. If you want to take the easy approach, you can trace this image in Illustrator and then print it out on decal paper(

u/Treefiddyt · 2 pointsr/funkopop

Probably just made his own decal. There are sheets you can buy that work in regular printers. Typically they are waterslide decals.

u/mikey39800 · 2 pointsr/battletech

Fighting Piranha Graphics seem to be the go-to resource that people use though I've found these and ones off of eBay to be lacking in print quality and versatility. I like to have a bit more control over the size and prints (and online decals are too damned expensive).

I did a writeup on decals this week. This might help someone printing their own.



decal print paper (Transparent if the decals are dark OR if the mech color is light OR if the design would be difficult to cut around. White paper if the decals have white or light colors OR if the mech is dark OR if the design would be easy to cut around.) Ink printers NOT print the color white and similar tints will be underwhelming!

picture editing software

color printer

decal film



acrylic fixative art spray, matte

decal setting stuff

*decal solution stuff



  1. Copy/paste stuff off the internet or create custom images in a graphics program. I recommend printing multiple sizes of the same graphic with a size reduction of 75% for each. (When in doubt go smaller than you think you'll need.) Just arrange the images very close together to make good use of the space.

  2. Print out the document with the slick side receiving the ink. Use a test print of normal printer paper to conserve the specialized sheets.

  3. Allow the ink several minutes to dry and then spray the whole thing with 2 coats of acrylic fixative spray. The purpose of this is to give a buffer so that the ink doesn't smear when applying the decal film. 5 minutes per coat ought to do it.

  4. I've tried airbrushing the decal film directly but it gunked up my airbrush. Smear a decent layer of decal film with a fine brush or makeup sponge. 5 minutes between 2 layers ought to do it. Doing this correctly is super important since it keeps the ink from floating off the paper when submerged. Layers of decal film also gives the decal rigidity so it doesn't crumple like a tissue-thin taco when you pull it off the backing. I've gotten some decal paper that is more fragile than the Testors that I linked below. More film resolved my issues.

  5. Now, just use your custom sheets as you would normal waterslide decals. Cut closely around images that are on white decal paper since it will have a white border. If you must use white paper, I'd recommend adding a background color of 50-75% gray so that any border you leave untrimmed will fade into most models better. (You could also make the surrounding color the same as the model it goes on if you're thinking that far ahead.) If you have transparent decals needed for a dark mech, consider painting a white spot in the shape of the decal to be applied.

    5a. Place a drop of decal setting stuff on the place the decal will go. This softens the decal and allows it to conform better since the medium is better than water. You'll still have a bit of give when sliding the decal around. Allow this to be visually dry.

    5b. Once the decal is perfectly in place, put a drop of decal solution to thoroughly wet it. This causes the decal to fill any irregular sections of the model that you placed it. It will get gummy, stretchy, and unable to move or remove afterwards. You might try this multiple times and use a fine brush to push it into recesses.

    5c. After the model is completed, seal the whole thing -including decal- with matte fixative spray or matte varnish that gets applied with a painting brush.


    Notable products:
u/Lord_Derp_The_2nd · 2 pointsr/SCYTHE

Testors custom decal paper

Took a little playing around to get it right, but I'll use it again in the future. Took a while, but I like how it came out.

u/stephw8 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

There is waterslide decal printer paper. You can make any decal you want...

Here is a few links but there are plenty of brands.



u/Ryoko54 · 2 pointsr/videos

Water slide decals could also work in place of actually painting the image on. Water slide decals are used in a lot of industries to apply clean graphics to objects, i.e. Hotwheels, Guitar headstock logos.

You can get this decal paper online:

u/CubeTuristicOfficial · 2 pointsr/Cubers

Your best bet is to order it online. It does depend on what lube you want, if you want the professional lube, get it from SCS or Cubicle, but if you just want some simple lube, get some Traxxas on Amazon.

u/AugisLTU · 2 pointsr/Cubers
u/TotallyNotAsian420 · 2 pointsr/Cubers

Firstly, I'd consider getting the GAN 356 X because money isn't a problem, as you said. Of course, if you have a reason for getting the 354 M (such as small hands), go ahead, but if you do not, then you should get the GAN 356 X.

Moreover, I simply do not believe that getting Cosmic or Supernova or whatever The Cubicle offers is ever worth it unless you do not have the time to set up the cube yourself. My reasoning is that all lube setups are temporary, and the lube will eventually dry out. With all of the money that you spend for someone else to set up your cube, you could easily buy lube for yourself that'll last you much, much longer. For example, check out this Traxxas 50K offer on Amazon:

50K is widely used as both a core lube and a piece lube (although, it's not that good of a piece lube imo), and this huge bottle costs less than $10. Adding this lube into your cube is extremely trivial as well, so I see no reason to let other people set up your cube, especially because it costs so much.

If you want a good piece lube, I'd recommend Angstrom Gravitas and Angstrom Dignitas ($10 as a bundle) from The Cubicle. Gravitas is a super long-lasting lube, and the combination of these two lubes in my Valk 3 M is the best lube setup I've ever tried on it.

TL;DR There is no need to pay so much for someone else to set up your cube (lube is temporary anyway) when you can just buy a whole bunch of lube and set up your cube yourself for however long you'll use it for.

u/silyy097 · 2 pointsr/Cubers

If you don't have traxxas 50k, get that first just due to the versatility of it, being able to use 50k on both the core and sparingly on the pieces. You can get it over on amazon here.

If you still do have more budget, I would recommend lubes specifically for the pieces. Stuff such as TheCubicle's Silk, DNM-37, and Lubicle One, or Cosmic lube from SpeedcubeShop will do as well. These lubes are less viscous than 50k and are great for being used on the pieces.

u/tragedyfish · 2 pointsr/Cubers

50K differential oil is the lube of choice for the core. You may want to acquire a syringe as it is very easy to over lube without one. If you intend to lube the pieces you will need lighter lube, around 30K.

u/giorgiof18 · 2 pointsr/Cubers

I did tons of research today and I found from many many YouTube videos, Traxxis 50k is the best. It's cheap, and there is a lot of lube inside the tube. It works great for all cubes. I actually bought a tube for myself today. Here's the link. [Traxxas 50k Lube](Traxxas 5137 Differential Oil, 50K Weight

I hope this helps!

u/jscoppe · 2 pointsr/Cubers

You're getting 5cc for $3.89.

A bottle of Traxxas, which is largely the same stuff, at 50cc (or 10x as much) for $7.99 or less in some places.

You're paying 77 cents per cc, whereas Traxxas is 16 cents per cc.

u/Stewy_ · 2 pointsr/Cubers

taking it apart and cleaning the pieces with a cloth might help if there's any dust/dirt buildup slowing your cube down

otherwise i recommend buying something like lubicle speedy to lube your cube with, i personally use traxxas 50k but some people don't like the feel it leaves on larger cubes compared to a thinner lube like lubicle speedy

u/harlolharnub · 2 pointsr/Cubers

Got my traxxas 50 early :D

Still breaking in my yuxin little magic since people reccomend not to lube until it's well broken in, so rn using my good ol' qiyi warrior that got lubed up. It's turning pretty darn well now (was kinda gummy before idk why, didnt lube it before), but how long does lube last?

I got this btw

if that changes anything (like different types of traxxas 50k? idk)

u/bluuit · 2 pointsr/Cubers

I'm a fan of the traxxas 50k (but I might try 30k) I've used it probably 30 or 40 times and only used about 1/3 of it so it will last you forever. It's longer lasting than silicone sprays so there is more consistency over time.
It also seems to spread itself throughout the cube better, so you don't really need to disassemble, spray, then reassemble to get an even coat.

Also, many of the silcone sprays can damage the plastics, slightly melting or eroding the surface. Some even say on the packaging they are not safe for use on plastic.

u/CubingVainGlory · 2 pointsr/Cubers

[Traxxas 10k, 30k and 50k in a bundle.] ( Get lube now.

u/plcrzd0 · 2 pointsr/Cubers
u/EMTJEEP · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Is Imax and Tenergy about the same reliability do you know? I can get a Tenergy one with built in power for about $20 more and it comes with a couple more leads.

I want to keep it compact so I can use it when I go out camping and hiking. I have a converter for my Jeep and a solar generator that can power the charger and it would be nice to not have to have an extra brick to carry and cut on weight.

u/LettuceTomatoOnion · 2 pointsr/rccars

I don't have time to write a book, but here are a couple of things I can share. I boxed up my stuff 20-25 years ago. We all ran RC 10s with NiCads. We all used Novak ESCs (T1 and T4). Futaba and KO Propo for radio.

Motors - Look at the motor/ESC combos that are available.

ESCs - Again look at the combos. Castle makes some nice stuff and they have software so you can program the ESC from your computer. It is very annoying to program an ESC based on flashing lights and beeps.

Receivers - I tried to use my old Novak receiver and Futaba, but it wasn't reliable. I broke down and just got a new Futaba set. There is a company called Fly Sky that makes very inexpensive transmitters that I hear are not that bad.

Servos - The big thing here is more power and strength due to the rock crawler crowd. A lot more options now.

Batteries - I tried to use NiMH and now realize I should have just gone straight to LiPo. LiPos supposedly are a little volatile and should be stored in a liPo sack to prevent against fire. I bet you have to do something really stupid to make them dangerous though. They also need to be put into storage mode if they are not going to be used for a while. This just means they need to be charged to a certain amount. I do what is called a balanced charge each time I charge them. This means that each section of the battery is at the same voltage. I have been using this charger and it works well.

Chassis - Correct, not much difference here especially when you look at brands like Team Associated or Tamiya. There are some new brands out there that make some nice stuff like Axial.

Hopefully someone with more time can elaborate . . . . especially on the battery stuff because it is a bit complicated.

u/releashthebeash · 2 pointsr/rccars

Hands down best bang for your buck. Comes with all cables and connectors needed

I have had one for 6 months and just ordered my 2nd

Tenergy TB6AC

u/89vision · 2 pointsr/AskReddit
u/arharris2 · 2 pointsr/AskReddit
u/doogles · 2 pointsr/AskReddit
u/MCubb · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Halloween Hijinxery

Gotta love a tiny remote control helicopter!

u/000000Coffee · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

u/TomTheGeek · 2 pointsr/radiocontrol
u/Ma2tew · 2 pointsr/Nerf

OK, I need to clarify this.

When the motors are not firing balls, and as long as I have my finger on the trigger, the motors will run great, and not slow down. So they appear to be working great.

However, It's when they are shooting balls that there is a problem. When they are firing the balls for a solid 10-15 seconds, the motors start to slow down, and sound like the battery is dying.

The battery has a 20C constant rating with 30C burst discharge rate.

The battery I'm using is this one:

I'll admit that I'm having to read up on the C rating right now. I don't know much about that. Is a 20C battery too low? Or maybe it's just not made to be held down continuously?

Thanks again with all the help you've given me. It really means a lot.

u/TM3dz · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Those batteries are a little chunky for a 250. I have some and they are slightly bigger and heavier than my 2200mAh zippy compact but I like to fly 1500 zippy the best on mine. I got the 2206 motors on my h250cf 3k pro and just added 20a esc and 6040 props to it last night. It's a beast! I use that same charger and it's great. I say go with the 99$ kit h250cf pro kit.
I would also not recommended the flysky fs-t6 I was seeing brown outs with it and left negative review on Amazon for the product. I now use a taranis and it really is amazing! Here is my speed run this weekend. I need to tilt my fpv camera so I can go faster and see where I'm going. This isn't all she has by any means. This was warm up before I went tree cruising
RCX H250CF 3K Pro 3/1/15:

>Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

>I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

>This is the charger

>And I'm considering a few of these batteries

u/Di-eEier_von_Satan · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

The Hubsan X4 (h107L) is an amazing micro quad. It's my first quad and I can't believe the things it will do.

u/Teamster · 2 pointsr/rawdenim

Hmmm. Well, I've really been enjoying my moto 360, but I'm both on android and a huge fucking nerd.

What's your coffee game look like? $200 would get a ton of great coffee gear, especially if you're just getting started.

How about sports? I'm an avid climber, so maybe you could get a punch-pass, climbing shoes, and a chalk bag and hit up a local climbing gym.

Let's talk toys, though. Quadrotors are a fucking BLAST to play with, and there's a million of them. I have this Estes ProtoNano and this Hubsan Quadrotor. They're both amazingly fun, and not too expensive.

What else are you interested in?

u/clonx · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I just recently started myself with [this] ( and have really enjoyed it a lot. Feels like I'm already immeasurably better at controlling it and I've only had ten or twelve flights. I would definitely recommend this model for learning on.

u/inkjet_printer · 2 pointsr/fpvracing
u/lonjaxson · 2 pointsr/theocho

Start by getting a line-of-sight drone and see if you like it first.

hubsan x4 (comes with a controller)



prop guards+props

$55 to see if you like it.

When you break that, try repairing it. If you don't like that, then the hobby may not be for you.

u/blueingreen85 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Yep, the real thing packaged in a factory box. It does not come with a battery though. I recommend the tenergy 380's on Amazon Also spend $7 on a 4 port charger:

u/cosmos7 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I bought these ones and they've worked out really well. They are slightly thicker than the OEM ones, but I haven't had a problem getting them in or out. I agree capacity-wise they generally don't provide much more flight time than OEM, but I've found I get significantly more time if I charge and then immediately use. Even charging in the morning for evening flying seems not quite as long. It's not just the aftermarket ones either.

u/readparse · 2 pointsr/hubsan

I also have H107L, and have been super happy with these batteries. They are 380 mAh, which I wanted to try before jumping to 500 mAh. I have been super happy with them. I haven't timed it, but it does feel like I get quite a bit more flying time. But of course, the main thing that makes a difference is having five of them :)

Obviously you'll also want a charger. I was going to get the same combo that /u/jackthecat53 mentioned, but some of the reviews made it sound like the charger wasn't that good. So I got a separate charger, which seems to be doing the job, but it feels super cheap, it turns out.

At any rate, I am super stoked about these batteries, and the way-improved flight time I'm able to get.

u/bartman36 · 2 pointsr/Quadcopter

Honestly, at that price point, you're best off going with the Hubsan x4 H107L

Here's an amazon link if u want:

Hubsan X4 (H107L) 4 Channel 2.4GHz RC Quadcopter, Black

u/liedel · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Order one of these first and learn to fly it, or something similar. The controls are the same and you can practice indoors. Also, if you destroy this you are out $40, instead of the full price.

u/Faynard · 2 pointsr/dragoncon

Not exactly the answer you may have been looking for, but I figured I would contribute...I bought something like that from Amazon a while back.

That's the model I bought, and extra batteries/chargers/parts have been easy to find online and even at hobby specialty shops. This one doesn't have a camera, but there are models that do. Super fun toy, tbh. Pretty sharp learning curve, even on the "beginner" mode that smooths out the flying. Highly encourage getting a propeller guard thing to slap on it especially if you fly indoors.

u/SirDabington · 2 pointsr/camping

As long as it isn't too windy the Hubsan X4 mini quadcopter is a lot of fun.

u/mxrider225 · 2 pointsr/drones
u/obsidianmantis · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I'm a noob. I just bought this and it should be here tomorrow. You can get one with FPV already set up. I think that one is ~$130. This one's $40. I got a sim app for my computer called Heli-X to learn how to fly it (360 controller compatible). The question is can you fly one? Check out the app t's free.

u/Wiltron · 2 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

It's also US Only, and readily available elsewhere for the same price..

Cameraless Model on Amazon

u/__redruM · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

These little guys are tanks. Fly over grass, get plenty of spare props and you are all set on a very affordable budget.

u/ianyboo · 2 pointsr/drones

Yup it's the hubsan X4 Amazon link that someone here recommended as a great starter that won't break on the first crash. And at 30 bucks I picked up two so I had spare parts for when I eventually destroyed it (which I did)

So much fun!

u/Lainz · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

You should consider a small one first. Like a [hubsan x4 from amazon.](

But if you don't mind the pricetag, and want to jump into it. You get ARF kits for 3-400usd. Then you need another 1-200usd in fpv gear. And 4-500 for radio/receiver, flightcontroller and batteries/charger.

In short, you should consider a pricetag around 800-1000usd to get starting. Maybe up to 1500-2000 depending on what you need to buy extra and if you want the "new" HD fpv goggles and so on.

u/SPprime · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I would suggest buying a cheap nano quad, like the Hubsan x4 or the Syma x11 first: fly, crash, learn, THEN look at building a 250. Plus then you have something you can fly around inside when the weather is bad

u/shiftpgup · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

You can use a site like to keep track of the price. I paid $30 and $35 (lost the first one) when I ordered mine.

u/wolfcry0 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Hubsan X4, it's cheap and comes with everything you need to fly it

u/Lord_Zero · 2 pointsr/videos

Hubsan H107L
$46 on Amazon (up ~$5 for the holidays). Grab a crash pack and prop guards.

u/Ruskythegreat · 2 pointsr/radiocontrol

I'm sure the crash protection on that is just a plastic blade guard. It looks like a Hubsan H107 clone but personally, I would go for this

u/Taubin · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

From everything I've read here, the Hubsan X4 series are great. There are new ones coming out at some point in the future, however the current versions are great, and cheap as well.

u/Lightborne · 2 pointsr/radiocontrol

Strange that it lists the rather spendy fpv version of the Hubsan instead of the cheaper (and still very good, especially for a beginner) base model:

u/KayakHipster · 2 pointsr/Kayaking

Exactly right. This is the one I started with (this option doesn't have a camera and is $35, I got the one that's 40 I think with the cam)

Hubsan X4 (H107L) 4 Channel 2.4GHz RC Quadcopter, Black

And you can see all parts to fix it are super cheap as well. The controls are the same as the more expensive ones. These are not anywhere as fancy, so you really need to learn to fly them. The more expensive ones have lots of functions to keep it steady and such. But it's very easy to get disoriented when it's high up and you can't see which way is forward. Bad news if there's obstacles nearby and you don't know how to control it. It's also why so many of them have been making headlines lately. Idiots get them without learning to use them first, and then they drop and hurt people.

u/Helagak · 2 pointsr/DJISpark

The hubsan x4 was my first quad. I learned so much on it. And they are cheaper than ever now. If you are new to flying and just got or are thinking about getting a spark or even a more expensive drone, I HIGHLY recommend grabbing an x4 and learning the ins and outs of quad control on something that won't break your heart when you break it. We all scrapped our knees when learning to walk. Learning to fly is no different.

Hubsan X4 (H107L) 4 Channel 2.4GHz RC Quadcopter, Black

u/LukemBro · 2 pointsr/Quadcopter

Go on amazon and buy all this in my opinion to get into Quadcopter flying:
The actual Quad

Things you will need

u/dick122 · 2 pointsr/gopro

I got this one, the Hubsan X4. It's showing it for $40 right now but I think I only paid $35 for mine at the time. They make the same one with a camera installed but I didn't see the point of that since the whole idea was to only use it for practicing.

It really wasn't hard to get the hang of. I started indoors with it and crashed it several times. It was fun but taking it out to the soccer fields and zipping it all over the place is what made me understand people's obsession with multicopters. The worst that has happened outdoors is twice I've taken my eye off it when it had gotten so far away it was just a tiny black speck in the sky. Both times I panicked, cut the throttle to let it fall and searched for it. Luckily it suffered no damage either of those times.

I will say you should definitely invest in some extra props and extra batteries. You can find all that pretty cheap online too. Even with all that added on you're still talking about less than $100.

Oh, and completely un-GoPro-related: these things are extremely fun to fly at night. With the LEDs on it's easier to see and looks like a UFO buzzing about.

u/ra13 · 2 pointsr/gopro

Sorry i replied to you a few days back but i was on mobile and it ended up being posted as a reply to the main thread!

Hubsan X4 H107L :

u/peterhollens · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

OMG, right?! I've gone through three of them already... I destroyed the blades to this one yesterday after only two days on the job. ---> -- it was a little cheaper when I got it, really like it, but it's super hard to control in the house...

u/jamesodba · 1 pointr/AskReddit
u/implante · 1 pointr/AskReddit

oh dear god yes. I bought this for a buddy's bachelor party (he and all of the other guys went to RPI). It was great success.

u/Iron_Skin · 1 pointr/AskReddit

One of these

They are cheap, and are utterly mesmerizing to many people. Now, the price I am seeing is $19.99,but the price for you may be different, depending on amazon.

Word of warning however: if you charge from the controller, make sure you have good quality batteries. If not, they will leak trying to charge the chopper.

u/hatboysam · 1 pointr/AskReddit

This RC Helicopter

19.50 shipped, the greatest toy ever. Charges via USB and has a built in gyroscope. It is also indestructible, I crash it into anything and everything but it is also maneuverable enough that within my first hour of flight it got it to perch on top of an iMac. I showed my dad and he immediately bought 5 and gave them to his buddies, everyone can fly it and love it.

u/rulouder22 · 1 pointr/AskReddit
u/joshjet182 · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

Syma 107's are incredibly durable and easy to fly.

Super cheap too, but it does look like a "regular looking helicopter".

u/RayLomas · 1 pointr/sysadmin

If you're really alone for the whole night, and work in a big openspace office, check out these things. They're hella fun. Side note, I won't say whenever I did or did not fly RC helicopters in my corporate offices.

Beside that, learning to code is fun, and quite rewarding.

u/brownja · 1 pointr/pics

I'm 45 and got one of these for my 12 yo son. Lets just say he hasn't spent much time with it. BTW, this things is WAAAY better than those air-hogs crap helicopters.

u/Cavemencrazy · 1 pointr/pics
u/chestr · 1 pointr/pics

This post made me realize how much I've always wanted an RC copter. I just ordered one on Amazon. Can. Not. Wait!

u/pkey · 1 pointr/pics

I'm 30and my mom got me the Syma s107 this Christmas. My dad is in his 50s. He got one too.

These things are awesome! Surprisingly easy to fly.

u/TheSerpent · 1 pointr/pics
u/pawingo · 1 pointr/AskReddit
  1. BugASalt - $30 - indegogo
  2. Syma s107 RC Helicopter - $17.98 - amazon
  3. Raspberry PI - $35 -
  4. Lego Prehistoric Hunters - $24.99 - amazon

    Might as well order one of those bugasalt. I'm sure you can put this to good use.. An RC helicopter is always a lot of fun. Try it during your work break. It makes the day go better.. I swear!
    It seems you have an interest in programming stuff, so you can't go wrong with a RaspberryPi. And who doesn't want a LEGO TRex!!!!!!

    Aaand crap... I just read Needs to be able to ship to Australia.
    I'm guessing pick one in this case...
u/myheadhurtsalot · 1 pointr/tipofmytongue

It wasn't a post, per se, but a featured ad for this guy.

u/clayola · 1 pointr/AskReddit

A remote controlled helicopter. Good ones are relatively cheap and they are endlessly fun.
Here's a good one, but cheaper on Amazon

u/PcChip · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

The only problem with 3ch helis is they have the controls reversed on the transmitter, so you'll end up learning the wrong way. If you're never planning on upgrading to "real" helis (4ch fixed pitch with swashplate, 6ch collective pitch with swashplate) then this won't be an issue and you can just buy the cheap ones and have fun. If this is the case I suggest something like a syma s107

If you want to learn the real control scheme (mode 2) then you can start with an easy double horse 9116 that will auto-balance when you let go of the control stick (thanks to the weighted flybar) which makes it a good beginner heli.

u/malcontented · 1 pointr/AskReddit
u/artanis2 · 1 pointr/promos

Here is a cheaper link sold by another store, fulfilled by amazon.


u/smwht · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

Basically, it is capable of doing more things than other similarly priced helicopters. It is trickier to fly, but that's because it is doing less of the flying for you.

On something like the S107 (or other coaxial helicopters), if you stop giving it any inputs, it'll level itself out and just kind of sit there. The V911 (and other single rotor helicopters) will do less of that for you, so you have to learn more control. It'll help prepare you better for flying larger helicopters and (IMO anyways) will keep your interest longer because there's more you can do with it.

I personally went from the S107 to a Blade MSR-X, but the blade is probably more than you're willing to spend ($90). If this is your absolute first helicopter, the S107 ( for example) may not be a bad idea - it's less than $20 and will let you start learning how to deal with orientation.

u/tsivdontlikereddit · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/priestwithknives · 1 pointr/CR10

Could try getting some rc silicone oil for the wheels to keep them from falling apart

This is one I use a bit for wheels and where belts ride

Traxxas 1666 Silicone Shock Oil

u/infernon_ · 1 pointr/Cubers

I recommend 30k or 50k and some of this (350 cst which is the equivalent of 0.35k)

u/woodstock927 · 1 pointr/Cubers
u/UncleVinny · 1 pointr/Cubers

I'm new to lubing cubes, and so I got my feet wet by buying the cheapest all-silicone oil on Amazon I could find, this 1666 Traxxas oil.

How would this stuff compare to other brands? My cubes feel smoother with it, but they also are a little sluggish.

I have a DaYan Zanchi and a FangShi shuanren that I'd like to relube. My times are 60-90 seconds, usually. What would y'all recommend? EDIT: I meant to ask... what lube should I get instead of this stuff?


u/IxI_DUCK_IxI · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

You can paint standard space marines green and use these custom decals to make them Salamandry. Purchase some decal printer paper and print them on any standard printer and then you can apply them just like any other decal.

u/legsintheair · 1 pointr/RedditLaqueristas

There are probably better options - but this exists.

u/Gerwalkun · 1 pointr/Gunpla

If you're looking to produce your own decals from an image, Testors has paper you can print directly on from an inkjet printer:

It might not fit your need, but is worth looking into if you can get sheets for MSRP.

u/SpicyIzzy · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

I used Illustrator to vectorize the images and to scale them. Then I used this to print the decals Clear Decal Paper. After that I clear coated the sheet with some clear coat spray(GW brand). Then I cut the sheet as close to the images as possible. Then I used decal set solution to make it look like it was painted. I then use brush on clear coat to seal the model up. Just let me know if you have anymore questions.

u/RonPossible · 1 pointr/modelmakers
u/kclem33 · 1 pointr/Cubers

But you live in the world of internet, and the internet has it:

u/Slicetre · 1 pointr/Cubers

Couple questions about lube

Seems the general consensus is to go with the:

Is there anything else you would recommend that would go hand and hand with this?

Is Traxass50k ok for internals and plastic?

Will I need some type of applicator, or will the built in bottle dispenser be sufficient?

Any help is appreciated, thanks guys

u/sergeantloser · 1 pointr/Cubers

No. WD-40 is known to harm cubes. I'd suggest checking out any cubing store for specialized lubricant. Personally, I use Traxxas differential oil and I heard that it's basically the same as other lubes. Its pretty cheap, especially considering how much they give you.

u/osuthrowaway1337 · 1 pointr/SSBM

You should try Rubik's Cube lube. It is rated by viscosity and weight 5 is pretty thick.

EDIT: Found a good cheap alternative too which has around the same viscosity of around weight 4 of above.

u/OMGIMASIAN · 1 pointr/Cubers

Save yourself even more by getting this. Its basically the same as lubix but much much cheaper. You could also try 70K instead of 50k (the viscosity) for a more loose lubricant.

u/mimi1218 · 1 pointr/Cubers
u/TheBrutux168 · 1 pointr/Cubers

Traxxas 50k is optimal for cubes IMO. Maru is light and doesn't last long or give as much of a buttery feel. It's good for short speed boosts, but I don't like it in the long run. 50k is pretty nice once broken in. It works for both the hardware and pieces

As seen it is frequently bought together with cubes

u/rubixcuber · 1 pointr/Cubers

Is this it?


I am definitely going to get this if I can. Also, do I lube the exact way J perm does it in his How to Lube a Cube video?

u/coder13 · 1 pointr/Cubers
u/Pocciox · 1 pointr/Cubers

it depends on the lube, if you want a durable lube then i suggest traxxas 50k ->

it's a huge bottle and is cheap and is often used in cubing :) it will last you a year or more

u/LifeinPablo · 1 pointr/Cubers

In that case, I guess you could just buy a single bottle of 50k which will cost you around ~$20, which will still help you with the spring noise, but it is also the same price of the set in the regular amazon, so if you can source some from there, then it could save you some money than buying from (also people say traxxas lasts forever, which makes it a good investment)


But if you're r e a l l y tight on budget, people say Gan Magic Lube is pretty nice and costs around ~$6 on (idk about India prices), but won't really help with your spring problem.

u/Penguin236 · 1 pointr/Cubers

Ah, thanks. One last question, would you happen to know how much lube is in this bottle? I can't find an amount anywhere, but I'd like to get a ballpark estimate of how long it'll last.

u/t1m1d · 1 pointr/Cubers

The most popular seems to be Traxxas 50k. It's pretty cheap; I'd give it a shot.

u/gpunotpsu · 1 pointr/Cubers

Traxxas 50k from RC hobby shops or online is a popular choice. Or Lubix (direct or from specialty cubing sites) to get a very similar substance in a nice application syringe with a cool sticker.

Crazy Bad Cuber lubing video. I seems like the main mistake people make is using too much lube which slows down your cube.

u/PepperooniPizza · 1 pointr/Cubers
u/w00tious · 1 pointr/Cubers

I believe Amazon beats SCS on price if you're in the US (I'm not).

u/yuxuibbs · 1 pointr/Cubers

Ideal is 30k - 50k wt not 30-50 wt

It will work but you need something much thicker. This is shock oil. You want differential oil which is just really thick shock oil. 900 CST = ~67 wt and ideal is 30k to 50k wt (apparently ~1250461 to ~2291130 cst (accidentally said wt instead of cst) ).

I think if you get this, it will either be like water and do nothing to the cube or basically be like maru lube that lasts longer which can be a good thing (maru lube makes cubes super fast but doesn't last very long).

u/Yoda8778 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
I'm a cuber so I wanted to make use of the spare lube that I have

u/knocklessmonster · 1 pointr/Cubers

Just get this One little dab (a little smaller than a pencil eraser) will do your entire 3x3, a bit more will do bigger cubes, it's confirmed safe for puzzles, and is pretty thick. If you use the right amount, you hardly know it's there, except your puzzle is a bit quicker and smoother.

I get that it's twice the price, but it's worth it, I think, to get something proven to work, than something that'll probably run like water (it's mostly Polyalphaolefin, which may degrade plastics, a cursory Google search tells me).

u/PotaToss · 1 pointr/Cubers

Liquid silicone lubricants are more or less the standard.

This is a good buy. You get a pretty good amount of it, and you can mix different weights to get something you like.

u/ddaug4uf · 1 pointr/Cubers

I picked these up on Amazon for about $20. You can probably get them cheaper elsewhere if you don’t mind waiting.

I used the 50K on the springs and axles and will use the 10k on the pieces but I’m trying to finish off a bottle Mara lube before I open the 10K Trakkas bottle.

u/PhantomToaster5 · 1 pointr/Cubers

Traxxas is a company that makes lube for RC cars, but it works amazingly in cubes. Traxxas 50k works great for lubricating the core, Traxxas 10k works great for lubing the pieces, and Traxxas 30k is a great intermediate lube if you know what you want to use it for. Here's a link to a bundle of the 3 lubes on U.S. Amazon. You should be able to view the link and get a feel for the product so you can find it on an applicable online store in your country for purchase.

u/TKO-Cuber · 1 pointr/Cubers

It's great lube but doesn't really last long and doesn't add that much feeling to a puzzle. I only use it for MoYu magnetic pyraminx tips to make them faster and less dry and on my X-Man Bell Pyra to make it smoother.

Most people prefer heavier weight lube. If you were to buy lighter lube than try Traxxas 30k. The Cubicle lube line is very overpriced. You can buy it [here] ( in larger quantities for cheaper. You can also buy bundles of 10k (very light), 30k (medium), and 50k (heavier) [here] ( which is probably your best bet if you want a lot of lube for cheap.

u/PokeMaster2164 · 1 pointr/Cubers
u/RickyCZ · 1 pointr/Cubers

Is it this one?

u/NeverDefyADonut · 1 pointr/Cubers

Here is the link to traxxas it is $17 usd including shipping only 1 left

u/Mr_PancakeMaster · 1 pointr/Cubers

Valk pieces only break if you take the corners apart other than that its a really good cube! I would recommend it, as for the lube I order Maru lube and

u/BowlShirt · 1 pointr/Cubers
u/twos-company · 1 pointr/Cubers

The full set can be bought for only 20 quid which isnt too bad.

u/lorpo1994 · 1 pointr/airsoft

That one would work, however it is made for NimH batteries, so if you ever switch over to a LiPo battery in your gun you will have to get a different one.

This one is a little more expensive but it will make sure you are able to use any battery on it. Really depends on how much money you are willing to spend. :P

u/Circle_in_a_Spiral · 1 pointr/amateurradio

After some more research, I think something like this charger should work plus it works on AC, too.

u/tubo_tasty · 1 pointr/airsoft

On chargers, amazon is your friend I found this in two minutes (and it's also the one I use personally). On lipos, Intellect/Firefox are a go-to for me.
P.S. You shouldn't be using an 11.1v without a mosfet.

u/Route66_LANparty · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Why don't you list out the features you need or want. And also desired and acceptable flight times.

Some things to think about...

  • Carrying Capacity? How heavy are the cameras you want to lift? Pretty simple if you stick to the GoPro standard anything above a 250 quad can carry a GoPro and simple 2-axis gimbal. If you want to carry a DSLR or new mirrorless 4/3 camera... you'll need something on the larger size for enough lift.
  • Follow Me - Will require GPS, an advanced AutoPiloting flight controller, and a compatible tracking/GPS device on the Follow Me subject.
  • Rotor redundancy. If a single motor/prop fails do you accept that it will fall from the sky like a brick? or do you need something that will have a slow/controlled crash with a single motor/prop failure?
  • Do you want a live feed from the camera? How do you want to view the feed? Monitor attached to the radio controller? or a goggle system?
  • Do you want telemetry? Data reporting back to your radio controller, computer, tablet or overlayed on your video feed? Data that can be reported back... health of GPS connections, coordinates, Battery levels, altitude, distance from "home" location.
  • Budget... probably should have listed this first. Where's the fun in that?

    Example Hex... Little under the cost of a Quad Phantom 2 V+ and a good bit under the Quad Iris+ while giving you some protection against a single motor/prop failure.

  • $60-$100 - F550 or S550 Hex frame
  • $230 - Tuned Propulsion Kit - DJI E310 (Makes picking motors, props size, esc size easy for an F550 or S550 frame).
  • $130 - PixHawk Clone
  • $50 - GPS (Works with both US/EU GPS systems)
  • $40-$75 Pixhawk ground station/mission planner/telemetry connectivity (No link as it depends on connection type i.e. PC/Tablet/Phone)
  • $55 - 4S 6000mah battery (probably want 2 or 3)
  • $65 Battery charger
  • $70 - Cheap 2-Axis GoPro Gimbal
  • $250 - FrSky Taranis Radio Controller and Receiver Combo (Cheaper options exist for around $150. $60 Turnigy 9X Transmitter / $40 FrSky TX Module / $40 FrSky Receiver)
  • $30-$70 Video transmitter - Depends on if you want fatshark goggle compatibility (ImmersionRC or the Generic 32Ch variety)
  • $120-$220 7" Video Receiver Monitor combo. (Depends on the Video transmitter and if you want dual antenna setup.)
  • $$$ GoPro
  • @ $50+ in Misc servo cables, battery connectors, Hot glue, double sided tape, velcro scrips, solder and cheap soldering iron. Some of which you'll likely already have, but some you'll need as the build progresses.
u/tracyfan_1 · 1 pointr/rccars

Yes that is the one I currently have. I also believe based on the current running of the 1800MaH battery pack that it wont be able to handle a LiPo battery. It takes 2 hours because its the standard crappy wall charger that came with the car, so I know I need a new charger. I see alot of recommendations to get one of these . Is there a reason to not go big on the LiPo right now? I want something that can be used on a future RC car, and if I can get something decent now I wouldnt mind. Is there specific ESC you might recommend to run on this buggy with a LiPo battery and a brushed motor? I just want to be able to upgrade in the future and any purchases I make on this just transfer them over. I should have gone brushless (DOH).

was thinking of going with this ESC :
Is there something I can get that would allow me to run a slightly bigger battery since I am limited to 7.4v-2s?
Can you help me choose a battery with power and long run time?

u/Bobsalt · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Mode 1 right throttle, mode 2 left throttle. i think most use mode 2?

Turnigy 9XR doesn't come with a module (tx and rx), so you need a set of those.

If you are trying to save money, maybe something like this?

If looking for something to use with other stuff in the future, I would get something like this. it comes with the tx/rx

I got one of these for a charger.

disclaimer: I am a noob at this (2 months) so take with grain of salt!! -lol

u/SpikeKintarin · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon


I think this rc heli would cheer you up! :3

u/nerdfighterelle · 1 pointr/RandomKindness

My boyfriend really wanted this for his birthday, but I lost my job and I couldn't afford it. Yes, he is a child at heart. He's really 25, and he said he would take a "derp" photo.

edit: um... he's 26 now, hence the birthday. woops.

u/Wincal308 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Everything else on my list has some purpose or use... this... well I just thought "I want a helicopter!"

u/hilljgo · 1 pointr/AskReddit

$20 RC mini helicopter!

My brother got one and its pretty cool flying around with precise control

u/rexroof · 1 pointr/AskReddit
u/Mr_Papagiorgio · 1 pointr/AskReddit
u/nerfcharmap · 1 pointr/Nerf
u/CHICKENFUKER · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

I went with a Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack for the controller with this charger and they are XT60

Could I use the same charger for the Quad packs? I have not pulled the trigger on the Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45/90 Lipo Pack yet.

I'm guessing the recommendation for the 1800mah 25-35C is to fly slower at first right? We would by flying FPV but not racing it so I think that's probably a good recommendation.

Since we are already using 2200mAh 3S 20C with an XT60 connector could we just use the same exact pack for the quad? It's rated at 20 constant, 30 burst and we could always use a spare for the controller if we go with a lighter battery with higher discharge for the quad later.

We aren't carrying a GoPro or anything so it would probably support the 2200.

u/RazgrizInferno · 1 pointr/Nerf

No idea how much they draw, but I'm using this 2200mAh 20C battery with no issues:

Your diagram is exactly how I wired mine, only difference is I spliced together the negatives to save wire. Should be good to go.

u/k4s · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

Perfect!!! I decided to use that!

Can you let me know if you see any problems with this list?? Anything I can improve?? Anything I don't need??

Frame, PDB, FC, Motors, ESCs

Extra XT60 Battery Connectors



2mm Gold Bullet Connector

Cable/Zip Ties



Tx/Rx to USB Adapter

Drone Battery 1 (heavy) 2200mAh

Drone Battery 2 (light) 1800mAh

FPV battery 1500mAh

What's the cheapest way to be able to get voltage to show on my FPV setup?

-Would I be able to use this voltage checker/warning buzzer?

What about a cheap lost model buzzer/discovery buzzer?? Can I use a switch on my Tx to make the alarm sound??

Is it overkill to get 3 batteries total?? 2 for the drone (So I can keep flying when one is charging) and 1 for the FPV reciever/display?

Thanks for the help!!

u/a_bit_of_byte · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I just burned out an ESC on a quad I just finished building :(. What's the best way to determine the cause?

It's a this ESC powered by this battery with this power distribution board. Thanks in advance!

u/shoangore · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

This is the charger

And I'm considering a few of these batteries

u/securitywyrm · 1 pointr/electricians

It seems that indeed we want to replicate the 'astronaut backpack' from your event company, though probably with a more Dr. Seus visual. Fortunately weight isn't much of an issue. We perform as a group so we can just rotate the backpack between performers. The "ideal" solution would be to use something like drill batteries so we could swap them out as needed. I really have no idea how much power a bubble machine would use relative to the energy stored in a car battery.

So to check if I'm reading this right

If we went with a SLA battery, which is a lot cheaper than a LiPo battery for the same amount of power, we'd need...

  1. A SLA battery
  2. An inverter that converts to 120v-60hz home voltage
  3. The cabling between the battery and the inverter. This is the part I don't know how to do.
  4. A battery charger for charging up the battery between gigs.
  5. Additional: We'd probably need some sort of switch somewhere to turn the device on and off without unplugging it from the inverter.

    One other concern is that if the bubble machine is on a moving person, most bubble machines have a shallow resevoir and will slosh easily. How was the bubble astronaut setup?

    Edit: Also I'm trying to do electrical math for how long batteries last, and brain is melting a bit. So just using examples

    Bubble machine :
    Battery :

    The bubble machine draws 500 milliamps of power, which is .5 amp. The battery has 2200 mAh of power. So if I’m reading how it works correctly, it’s a matter of just dividing the milliamps of power into the mAh and you get about four hours of power. Is that right?

u/nickoaverdnac · 1 pointr/djiphantom

If you think this is a one-time-purchase then you are dead wrong. You will crash, it is a matter of when and how. If you beat the odds, then good for you, you'll then want to buy upgrades. Save up and get a Phantom 2 with H3-3D and a GoPro 3+... If you can't afford that, just get a Hubsan X4 $40 and learn to fly and save money.

u/topcity · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

Without a doubt I think you should start with the Hubsan X4. I got one for my son a few months ago, and I've been flying it non-stop. A lot of fun and flies great indoors and out (with light wind.) Start inside and get good before you venture outside.

u/ZombiePudding · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Goddammit, I dun goof'd. This shit better work.

u/naze_ninja · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I've been trying to get my 9x set up with a simulator for like 6 months. I have this USB adapter. But the computer doesn't appear to recognize it when I plug in.

I've also tried the mono cable approach, but I can't get the software to install correctly. Are you only using Smartpropoplus? Any other software? And do you have to remove the module for it to work? Are you still using the stock module? I've got a FrSky DHT installed in mine.

I'd appreciate any guidance you might be able to offer. I want to get into these sims, but it seems kinda pointless with an Xbox controller. :/

u/knifeproz · 1 pointr/fpv

Yes you'd use the transmitter with the computer. The cable loosks something like this

u/covati · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Thank you! I spent 20 minutes earlier this evening trying to figure out which dongle to get for my new Turnigy (For $21 how can you not get one?! :) 9x on osx.

I can't wait to try it on aerofly and fpv free rider.

BTW, has anyone tried the copters on aerofly? Are the physics are pathetic? or is my setup?

Edit: This dongle is only available in the international warehouse w/ $20+ shipping. It appears this one on amazon has free shipping with reasonable estimates on timing for $10 USD

u/ibomber · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Oh I see it has a trainer port but its not a 3.5mm cable like on spektrum the best way to hook it up would buy a cable for it something like this

Also a vid if u just want to solder up the cable yourself

u/slambarz · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I used Liftoff, but it worked for FPV Air 2 as well.

Alternatively you can buy this cable.

u/Ladygoose7 · 1 pointr/Multicopter
u/techyg · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I use the "Newbie Drone" parallel charger. It gives you 12 ports to parallel charge on. It is designed for the smaller connectors, but you could easily make a cable. $20, maybe another $5-$10 to make adapters. I use an iMax b6 charger with this board (about $30-$40) and it works pretty well.

For a lot less ($4) you can get a 6 port parallel charger from RMRC. This would also need an adapter cable similar to above.

Other non-parallel options:
4 port Hitec Serial Charger. Works well, lets you charge up to 1A, and has the connector you need.

RMRC also just announced a 6 port, individual charging, for $19. It requires an XT60 cable to power it, which you could use a 3S or 4S battery, or plug in a 12v DC charger. You'd also need to make a cable for this one.

u/tpAovxDPtpwRNcMluI7v · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Hey, I purchased a Taranis X9D today with the intent of buying a micro as my first decent quad (I've trashed a few cheap ones learning how to fly). Once the radio arrives I plan on practicing with a sim while the (unpurchased yet) quad is in the mail.

I realise it's expensive, but the MOSKITO 70 is the frontrunner on my my micro shopping list right now. If my understanding is correct, the brushed motors on the three linked quads will wear out after a while, unlike the MOSKITO, correct?

On the Multicopter sidebar, the sidebars Batteries and Charging has some great info, however I'm still a little unclear on:

  1. The difference between batteries. Looking at banggoods "1s lipo battery" page, there are all manner of mAh ratings for each battery. Can any of these be used on the micro quads listed above? Is a higher C-Rating always better?
  2. A 1S battery doesn't have multiple cells to be balanced, so the recommended Hitec RCD 44212 X4 is a simple buy. But if I were to move onto 2S or greater, would I need to choose between a Balance Charger or a Parallel Charger?
u/fastlerner · 1 pointr/Multicopter

You can easily make a harness if you have several charging leads. When connecting source to output, it's a simple one-to-many connection. All the positives go together, and all the negatives go together.


  1. All of your batteries should be within 0.1 volts of each other BEFORE you connect them together. Failing to follow this will result in the battery with the higher charge dumping current into a lower charge battery at it's full discharge rate. As this can be anywhere between 20-50C, and these guys typically can't accept a charge at more than 1-2C, this can cause damage, swelling, or bursting batteries and fire. ALWAYS check voltages before connecting parallel batteries.

  2. You won't really save any time unless you are using a charger with decent wattage and you're doing a lot of cells, and most 1S chargers don't push high wattages anyway.

  3. If you have a multicell charger, you can also build a serial rig. In this case it's not as critical (but is still strongly advised) to have all the cells reading the same as it will balance them. A 3S to 1S serial rig would look like this. (final form)

    If you do lots of 1S stuff, save yourself a lot of hassle and invest in one of these Hitech chargers. It's worth every penny!! Let's you do 4 batteries at once, at independent charge rates, and tells you exactly what's going on with each. Only downside is if you're using JST, you'll have to build or buy a few more adapters. Again, well worth it.
u/Curtisbeef · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Hitech make a charger but its a little expensive. Probably pretty high quality though.

u/Illmad · 1 pointr/Multicopter
u/checkitoutmyfriend · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Google the props, they are everywhere. I get the 5X sets. I hate waiting on parts so I order from the states.

This is the last set of batts I bought. They are working out very well.

u/the_drunk_drummer · 1 pointr/Multicopter

They're usually for the Hubsan X4. Saw it at Radio Shack with the same connector.

u/originaljayno · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I use both chargers, since I'm recording pre-charge and post-charge voltage, I charge batteries in different slots on the chargers to see if the issue is the battery, or the charger.

Currently I have the two stock batteries 3.7V 350mAH and five new batteries [3.7V 380mAh] (

u/271828182 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Seems like everyone is assuming he wants a kit and to build it himself, but I don't see that you said that. So, is that the case?

Will this be his first multicopter? If so, I would recommend something that is ready to fly (RTF) right out of the box. There are lots of good options, but I really enjoy my Hubsan x4 simply because how easy it is to get replacement parts. The price and reliability are nice as well ;)

You can put him together a nice "kit" with a hard case, spare parts, extra batteries for about $175 $135 on Amazon. It will be RTF, but also give him room to learn about the platform and repair mistakes.

EDIT: Actually a little cheaper... if he has not flow before, this is a fun, cheap christmas present.

Complete Starter Kit for Hubsan x4 | ------------
Hubsan H107C | $54.00 |
Carrying Case | $24.99 |
Crash Kit | $17.50 |
5 Extra Batteries | $18.39 |
Battery Charger | $6.36 |
Prop Guard | $2.73 |
Total | $123.97

u/junrenman · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I think the stock X4 comes with a 280 mah battery but I read that the 380's were a good compromise of performance and flight time. I'm going to go with these from Amazon.

u/user179 · 1 pointr/Multicopter
u/n0torious1 · 1 pointr/Quadcopter

I should be getting tomorrow, but the batteries I ordered were out of stock until the weekend, so they won't be coming in until next week

Edit: Just noticed you have the x5sc which doesn't look like this particular charger would work for either...

u/LOOKITSADAM · 1 pointr/videos

Pfft, I wouldn't recommend building one right off the bat anyways. That's a lot of fiscal and emotional investment for something that's gonna crash and burn in the first couple months anyways. There's a bunch of cheap, wonderful, learner 'toy' grade ones out there to whet a curiosity.

Good luck with your degree. I wouldn't know where to start with that, mine was in Computer Science.

u/lamp42 · 1 pointr/drones

correct me if im wrong but the hubsan x4 is only like 30 bucks...can this go high and shit and is it fast? how is this one compared to OPs video? I can only imagine what the 1500 dollar drones can do....

u/germz05 · 1 pointr/videos
u/Ferreteria · 1 pointr/fpvracing

$30.00. Tons of fun to fly, a great cheap introduction, and a great way to learn the basics. There's a learning curve, you're going to crash, so why not use something easily replaceable.

u/idunnofry · 1 pointr/Quadcopter

Do yourself a favor and master this before diving into building a quadcopter. The hubsan is the best mini quad for the money hands down. Do not bother with the cheerson cx-10, it has unreliable signal in my experience even at very close range among other cons.

I have a hard time believing you'll be able to squeeze a custom build with transmission to your phone out of $300 even if you have a radio controller already.

My advice is maybe a phantom 2 or 3 for ~$500. It will route video straight to the DJI app in your phone. A custom quadcopter is going to be a bit more tricky to get onto your phone and you're more likely to be sending it into FPV goggles.

If you don't go the DJI route you will have to buy an RC controller/vrx/battery charger/figure out a way to view the video feed/etc. The cost can really get out of hand. I bought an Immersion RC Vortex after outgrowing the hubsan and after all the basics I needed I had spent well over $1000.

All in all, until you have 2x/3x as much of a budget go with the hubsan. Good luck!

u/ChrisVolkoff · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

Thanks, yeah they probably look too similar to justify spending ~$40. I'm going to use that money to buy this then haha.

u/TripKidd · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Hah, it does sound like it :)

I just know how much kids love these things, and how easy they are to break.

EDIT: err, I mean -

u/sevargmas · 1 pointr/gopro
u/strange_like · 1 pointr/multirotor

Please, do yourself a favor and DO NOT start with a 450. You will break something or someone. Drop $40 on the Hubsan X4 as a trainer, it'll teach you everything you need to know about how to fly. Beyond that, the F450 is great.

u/rob79 · 1 pointr/arduino

Late reply, but here are my thoughts on this.

Basically any RC helicopter can be easily controlled via arduino. The trick is either taking apart the included controller as you suggested and simply wiring the connections to the sticks to a breadboard or something. The sticks are basically just potentiometers.

The other way you could do it would be to find an RF shield or something so the arduino can just output on the correct frequency. I haven't been into RC as a serious hobby for a while (I'm talking like almost 20 years, since I was a teenager, so things have probably changed a lot), but I remember being able to go out and buy various crystals at my hobby shop so that you could easily swap what frequencies the controllers/receivers worked on. This was important at events where there might be 10 people all flying at the same time (just pop out your crystals if someone else is on that frequency and replace it with a different one). I'm sure there must be an RF transmitter arduino shield out there that works on this principle. Maybe start researching how people control robots, like the ones that play soccer and stuff.

As far as recommendations go, would you be interested in a quadcopter? The Hubsan X4 is a WICKED fun tiny quadcopter. It's fast, easy to control, etc, etc. It even has swappable batteries so you don't have to wait 20 minutes after every 5 minute flight to go again. Heck, I'd recommend you get one of those for your friend even if it can't be connected to arduino just because it's super fun LOL.

Good luck!

EDIT: BTW - when I said that the X4 is "easy to control" that is, of course, relative. It will require practice. Your friend will probably need to get familiar with flying anything you buy manually before trying to control it via programming, so what I mean is that it's a great quadcopter to learn on. It's durable, replacement parts are cheap (definitely get 3-4 extra sets of blades, a crash repair kit, extra batteries, and blade guards if you can find them), and most of all it's so fun and the learning curve so gentle that your friend will not lose interest or get frustrated. An added bonus is that it's also fairly basic (no fancy built in electronics) so it's definitely hackable with the right skills.

u/supergrega · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Thanks for the answers!

Part 1:
After thinking about Hubsan x4 vs Syma x1 carefully and researching on google, I still decided to go with Hubsan X4, mainly because I will probably have to be flying indoors since it's going to start snowing here pretty soon. :(


    I will also buy the propeller guard. What I am curious about is, seeing as the flight time is only a little over 5 minutes, what extra batteries should I get for it and what charger? Would these do?


    Oh, that was my bad. A week or so ago, we were thinking about getting a hexacopter with a gopro and later upgrading it to be able to lift dslr devices, hence the second dslr gimbal. But seeing as gopro4 has some pretty good quality, we probably won't need to be lifting dslrs any time soon. Is the gimbal we get with f550 kit any good? Also, the f550 kit says we need to get a controler, but I have no idea which one.

    The FPV you recommended is this one, right?


    We would probably need to get an aditional controler with LCD screen, right?
u/thedevilsmusic · 1 pointr/videos

This is also a great learning quad . After a little over a month of draining the 3 batteries I have for it almost everyday, I feel like I have a good grasp on the basics of flying. I'm planning my first build now.

The hubsan is definitely worth the money.

u/aroject · 1 pointr/Multicopter

No worries! I actually have the Syma x1, the Hubsan x4, and the Nano QX so I've had plenty of first hand experience on all 3 of the super popular ones.

The specific Syma x1 I have is this:

Its the cheapest of the 3 and has the longest flight time. However this means it has the longest charge time (about 90 minutes for around 20+ minutes of flight)

The Nano will fly for around 10+ minutes and charges in around 35 minutes.

The Hubsan takes around 45 minutes to charge and flies for about 6~7 minutes depending on if you have the guard attached.

Of the 3 the Syma is the easiest to fly, and the best for a total beginner to learn on. However the Syma does not have blade guards, but the blades themselves are very sturdy (in about 50 flights and many crashes from various heights onto various surfaces I have yet to break a single propeller)

The Nano is my favorite hands down, best bang for your buck if you can afford the $70~100 price range. However due to its incredible agility it would be rather hard to learn on and would crash a lot. I've had all 3 for months and I still can't fly the Nano in agility mode indoors. Seriously, that sucker can move. The Hubsan is kinda a happy medium between the Syma and Nano in nearly every aspect. Personally its my least favorite of the 3, but it is still a very solid beginner copter. The Hubsan isn't bad by any means, its just that the other two are better in my opinion. The Hubsan is the heaviest of the 3 despite it being the smallest. Also the Hubsan has the shortest flight time, but a longer charge time than the Nano.

Also, very important - if you get a Hubsan DO NOT GET THE CAMERA upgraded version. The camera is really bad, it doesn't come with a micro SD card, any video playback will include the lovely sound of the motors (they are very loud in flight) as performed by the world's worst microphone at max volume, and the camera is always on (even with no card inserted) so it drains the battery faster than the non camera version. (not to mention the added weight)

If I had some spare cash I would definitely buy a second Nano, they are that awesome once you know how to fly. I would also probably buy another Syma because the quality for the cost is fantastic. Honestly I would buy a second Syma x1 instead of an extra battery for the first one. Its like $10~15 for an extra battery kit, I personally would rather just have 2 copters for 30 bucks instead of just one with an extra battery. (you can cannibalize one if the other breaks, plus that gives you 2 chargers, 2 controllers, 2 batteries, and a total of 16 propellers to use. Not to mention a total of 8 motors and 2 flight boards) So if you plan on crashing a lot just spring for a second one instead of a repair kit.

I know everything I said about the Hubsan seems negative, but its still a very good starter copter at a very reasonable price. Having used one as much as I have, I would absolutely buy it again (minus the damn camera) if I ever had a reason to. That being said I should warn you, my Hubsan - and possibly all Hubsans, are out for blood and are face seeking. I've gotten some fairly bad cuts and bruises from mine. Do yourself a favor and just keep away from the flip button until you have either a lot of room / experience, or some sort of bullet proof shield to hide behind.

If you have any other questions about copters or learning to fly I would be more than happy to try and answer them. I know that finding specific information about this stuff can be kinda hard or confusing at times.

Here are links to the other two quads I talked about:

Hubsan x4 -

Nano QX -

u/pepsihatman · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Hubsan X4

Orrrr with a camera for $13 more here

This guy is a micro, but incredibly tough and a great starter/learner. Get extra props or the prop guards.

u/Guns_and_Dank · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Well what are ya waiting for? Join the fun!

u/Waz0wski · 1 pointr/Filmmakers this guy is good and will carry the camera. this is better if you can afford it. either of them will be shaky unless you add a stabilizer.

u/cthulol · 1 pointr/mealtimevideos

Thank you! Any opinion on the Hubsan H107L?

u/Boston_TD_Party · 1 pointr/gopro

Nice! I'd recommend getting a toy size quad to practice on, it will save you some cash in the long run. The Hubsan X4 has treated me well.

u/Mguyen · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I'm not sure if there's a consumer grade quad out there that will be able to do that. Your best chance to keep things cheap (low cost, not low quality) and efficient is a custom build. From the components I have off the top of my head, I'm fairly sure you can do it for $1000 (with FPV equipment, including receiver , except for the screen/goggles). With some careful thought and a little optimizing, you could probably get it down. What's going to end up costing the most will be the high efficiency motors, and the high power batteries.

If you want to start flying quads, here's the same advice you'd get anywhere else on this subreddit, put down about $50 on a Hubsan X4. It'll take the crashes while you're learning so a more expensive quad doesn't have to. It's pretty durable so you won't have to worry about breaking it either.

u/alphaPC · 1 pointr/Quadcopters

Absolute best thing you can buy for that price is a hubsan IMO. They are almost bullet proof, parts are dirt cheap, readily available and they fly amazingly.

--107c+ which is at the top of your range but is quite nice--

[--or the 107L which is on the bottom of your range, no camera--] (

Both fly Awesome and you can buy batteries and multichargers for them to have nearly endless fly time, for extremely cheap. I have drones ranging from a chroma 4k (1200$) to the 107L (50 $). Of all the drones, i think the Hubsans gives the most enjoyment for the money, they fly great and are super durable. Its a totally care free and chill experience, knowing they are so cheap and easy to fix you can enjoy they capabilities guilt free.They can fly extremely fast out doors, are powerful, do flips at speed, banks corners well, and have a good yaw rate. They are quite the little machine.

u/curmudgeonqualms · 1 pointr/pics

> only the ridiculous high end custom commercial filming drone could draw blood

You sound like you have not flown even a medium sized "toy" quad if you think this.

Even the mini ones will scratch you good, a 250 sized quad will fuck your shit up if it hits you and an amateur filming more so.

u/SurfWyoming · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

You should start with a Syma x5c-1 or a hubsan x4 to start out with. They are about $50 and you will want to crash those when you are starting out. Crashing your 250 will get expensive quick. After you get about a month or so of stick time, then start looking into your 250 build. If you want, hubsan also makes an fpv version which is super fun to fly, but its around $100. Let me know if you have questions!



FPV Hubsan

u/PolarisSONE · 1 pointr/DIY

Is the Mini version more than enough for me to start out?

I'll probably pick up spare batteries as well. Does the mini come with the prop-guard as well?


u/pukingbuzzard · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Damn the one on banggood was for the drone only! I'm going to order on amazon.

So I tried to get into droning years ago, but the LOS drone I got, I couldn't really get it to hover without moving at a good clip of speed, It was very discouraging. I watched E-max videos and it seems like maybe this drone you are mentioning is alot better. Below is the first attempt drone I had (which after a bunch of crashes I couldn't get to hover at all).

u/golegogo · 1 pointr/Multicopter

This is just my opinion but I would recommend buying the [husband X4] (

It's cheap and easy to learn on. But on whether to build or not. Building is:

  • cheaper for the same product

  • more customizable

  • easier to fix when you break something

  • More work to setup

  • Can require technical knowledge (this subreddit can help you learn)

    Just my 2 cents.
u/BojanglesSweetT · 1 pointr/drones

I've got this Hubsan X4 and it's a fun toy drone

u/mangusman07 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

New? The hubsan micro should be the first thing purchased. Practice as you assemble.

u/Derpeh · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Ok. I found this one. I'm assuming it's the one with the yaw control on the throttle?

u/Nice_Guy_AMA · 1 pointr/Quadcopter

Agreed. I think it's a good idea to learn to fly on something cheap. I started with the Hubsan H107L X4 Mini RTF RC Quadcopter. I bought the quadcopter, a crash pack, a prop guard, and some extra batteries for about $100.

u/seanpr123 · 1 pointr/videos

Yep, and they fly great.

Hubsan X4 or Blade Nano QX are the two I can suggest (have both). Started with the X4 but eventually purchased a hobby grade transmitter and a Nano to bind with it.

WLToys and Syma make some other popular options, many of these at $50 or less (especially if you don't mind a wait and shipping from China).

If you want Prime though, here is the X4 page and here's the Blade QX BNF.

Have fun!

u/BandCampMocs · 1 pointr/fpv

As I'm nearing the finishing stages of my build (woo!), it has occurred to me that, even though I ordered a couple of 1500mAh 3s batteries, and I already have a Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps, 50Watts), I need something to go in between the two!

I've been charging my 1s Whoop-class batteries with a parallel charging board on Amazon, but it's just for 1s.

Amazon tells me that people who bought the Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps, 50Watts) above, also bought this: BW® 2-6S Lipo XT60-Plug Parallel Balanced Charging Plate Charging Board for Imax B6 / B6AC / B8

It's not clear to me how that plugs into the SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2. It looks like the only way to plug into it is male-type banana clips.

What else do I need? What do you recommend?

I'd like to be able to parallel charge 1-4 (or more) 1300-1500mAh 3s, or 4s batteries.

u/kwaaaaaaaaa · 1 pointr/diydrones

The quanums v2's can run on 2s lipos, so any cheap 2s lipo in the 500mah+ should do the trick. These nano-techs 850mah 2s works well and gives decent power time.

For charging, I personally like the Turnigy Reaktor it can do 10A, plus this 12v power supply and a parallel charging board, you can quickly charge 4 or 5 lipos at once. In the future if you plan to get another Reaktor charger, you can hook it up to the same power supply. I have 3 Reaktors hooked up to my power supply.

On a cheaper end, this B6AC can do 6A and doesn't require a separate power supply.

This is what my setup looks like.

u/kamnxt · 1 pointr/diydrones

Haha, nice to teach someone ;)

You have it the wrong way around. This is how it's supposed to look. And if you unsolder the wires, you also save some space, which is pretty nice on small builds. And it looks nicer.

The nice plastic wrapping is probably some kind of heatshrink tubing. Want to heatshrink your own stuff? Get this. You just heat it up with a lighter and it shrinks to half the size. There is no problem if you take the plastic off and leave it without it, but it's more likely to short on something, a bit less water resistant (in case a drop of water lands on it), and it doesn't look as professional ;)

If you want to solder the motors directly to the ESCs (which I recommend, as it's lighter and looks neater), you can heatshrink them with this heatshrink afterwards.

The balance charger connects to the balance plug and (usually) the main plug on the battery. There are some cheap, low-power chargers that only use the balance plug. The balance plug has thinner wires, so it can't handle a high current like the main plug (which also uses a connector that handles higher current). On batteries the size of your battery, the wires will be almost the same size, but on bigger batteries the main wires are usually quite a bit thicker. The higher-power chargers use the main plug for charging/discharging (several amps) and the balance plug for balancing (usually under 2A). You should charge your batteries at around 1C, which is 1A in your case, so you don't really need a higher power charger unless you want to be able to charge several batteries at once or plan on getting something that needs bigger batteries in the future. Also, most of the lower-power chargers only have a fixed current and can't discharge the batteries or show other useful information. Most of the higher-end ones can show you the current charging current, voltage, time since starting, mAh recharged etc, and can also discharge your batteries to around 40% which is the level it's best to store batteries at.

The LiPo alarm plugs into the balance port in order to be able to measure every cell individually. This means you can't over-discharge any cell (for example if one of them is faulty and discharges faster than the others). You unplug it when you're done flying, and connect the balance charger to the same connector when you're charging.

When you want to buy a balance charger, you have a lot of different options, depending on whether you want a really cheap charger (something like this), an OK all-around charger (like this one), a charger that can charge 4 different batteries at once (like this one), or a charger that can charge 40 of the batteries you're using in parallel at once (this one). Also note that some of them only have a DC input, so you need an external power supply for them. You can for example make one out of a server power supply, or you can just buy a ready to use one.

u/rake_tm · 1 pointr/RCPlanes

Also, do you have a LiPo charger? If not you can check out the iMax B6AC V2 which is probably the best bang for the buck. Watch a youtube video or two and you will be good to go.

If you need help picking out batteries or any other accessories just post in this sub and ask.

u/The-Canadian-Jester · 1 pointr/airsoft

If anyone wants a link to this charger it's called the: B6AC Smart Charger

u/I_FUCKED_A_BAGEL · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Be sure to do a bit of homework on the batteries.

If your batteries are 1300mah charge at 1.3 amps. If they are 1500mah charge at 1.5 etc..

Use a voltage alarm on your quad or put a buzzer on the flight controller.

Once the alarm goes off land, since over draining can damage the batteries.

Once youre done flying for the day use your charger to place the batteries in storage mode. Keeping them charged more than a couple days can damage them. Just charge them the day before flying, and if you end up not using them decharge them on the charger back down to storage mode.

u/ScootyPuffJunior · 1 pointr/Multicopter

What is the recommended balance charger that I can plug 4 into at once and just let it do its thing? I'm lookin at This one

u/DarkerSavant · 1 pointr/airsoft

I love this charger. Charges everything I need. If it doesn't I just make my own connector.

u/ccraig1984 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

The FlySky, FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel Transmitter , heck of a lot cheaper and will get you started, and you can get the FS-ia6b which has I-bus for the serial connection. About $100 all together

u/stupidlinguist · 1 pointr/fpvracing

So, just arrived, it also didn't come with a controller, because I'm not so great at fully reading descriptions lol any reason to not go with a FlySky FS-i6-M2 2.4GHz 6-Channel Transmitter ?

u/sometimes_insightful · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

You might be cutting it close. Here's a 6 channel tx and rx for 52$: flysky i6 Then a motor and ESC will probably run you another 30-40$. But youll also need servos (~10$) , battery connectors, batteries, charger, etc. If you already have any of those you very well might be ok.

u/halibuthero · 1 pointr/Multicopter
u/daddylongs · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Thanks, I have heard of the ladybirds now that you mention it. I picked up this set from Amazon:

u/KRONie · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Instead of the crash pack i'd suggest buying parts separately. Crash packs have some stuff youll probably never need. The only things you have to worry about replacing are props, motors, and propguard if your X4 didn't come with one (check underneath the plastic box insert, on some units it's taped there).

Great props:

also sold as combo with propguards, although i've only tried clear ones that are only sold separately

Motors (for H107L):

u/AshenCrow · 1 pointr/Multicopter

You will lose a little bit of flight time with the stock battery and motors. The carbon frame is a tad bit heavier than the plastic.

I recommend these batteries now that you have the room and these props... I get around 12-13 minutes of actual flight time with that setup. No, not hover time... moderately aggressive flight time.

Be aware that your lift to weight ratio is now a bit smaller, and if you use the stock flight controller the craft will want to "dig" when you tilt forward to pick up speed quickly. With higher power motors this will likely not be as big an issue. Don't get me wrong though, it still flies like a beast, but it requires more attention than the original symmetrical layout.

Also, the LEDs are now extremely difficult to use for orientation. Consider purchasing some bigger ones to mount on the corners.

Good luck!

Edit: Here's mine with only new frame, battery, and props:

Edit 2: The foil tape is a temporary measure to protect the original motor wires, which were too short to be secured to the body/arms. The new motors have much longer wires and will be secured properly while soldering in.

u/scottrbenn · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I am thinking about getting the following Syma FPV kit:

and fitting it on a standard, DJI 450 knockoff quadcopter that I built. Would this work? What battery would I need to power the camera on the quad? I have spare batteries from an old Hubsan X4, would those work?
I understand this is cheapo, but any feedback or input would be great! Anyone with experience with this kit, please chime in.

u/VilusiaLP · 1 pointr/Quadcopter

I was looking at this one. (sorry about the huge link) it seems to have good overall reviews. Ill look at the onenyou suggested though!

u/hamgina · 1 pointr/Quadcopter

The camera is kinda crappy. Like novelty crappy. It's pretty much unwatchable because there is no gimbal to stabilize the shot.

Have you seen this? It's pretty clever. The resolution is better and you get the advantage of flying with FPV. The price is right. Quality of recordings is so-so because again, no gimbal but otherwise it's not bad.

u/oddquadguy · 1 pointr/fpv

This same kit is on banggood, gearbest, and a few others. I spent 56 on an experiment. I am trying to mount it internally to lose the 8g shell

u/smokeNtoke1 · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

Responding to your comments mostly... sorry for the wall of broken up text..

Attaching a gopro is more about the thrust of the quad than the strength of the carbon fiber. I would guess you could attach one to either build.

They will both likely be "overpowered" for you, but yea you'll grow into it.

I would argue the Racerstar ESCs are also more reliable than the Eachines.

If that's the matek with the OSD that shows your battery voltage, it's a great PDB (around $13 right now I think).

Haven't used an F4 board yet, but recently upgraded to the SP racing f3 and I sure do like it.

Props are cheap anyways and you'll be buying more at some point.

The Monster FPV cam should work great for you, there's a $25 clone of the HS1177 on banggood that would also work well.

Your vTx looks good. Make sure your antenna match the vtx port (sma or rp-sma) and check whether you need male or female.

YES get the 65C batteries. Though that rating isn't held to a standard for marketing them, you'll want some nice high-C, 4S batteries. I suggest both these Tattu 4S 1300mah batteries on amazon for around $25 (the price changes), and those infinity graphene 4s batteries on banggood (though it looks like maybe they took them off their site?). Get a few batteries, you're not going to want to have to charge every 5 min of flight you get.

I hear great things about the IMAX B6 charger here, but I personally use this Charsoon Antimatter 250W charger and love it. I grabbed a nice balance/parallel board for it and can charge 4 batteries in about 45 minutes. Just get one that people haven't had many problems with, and learn to safely charge lipos. Otherwise, there's a fire risk.

I have both the EV800s and the VR D2s. Got them for the same price (~$50) and like the VR D2s a bit better. But really, the EV800s are great. Again, make sure you get the correct antenna upgrades.

If you'll want to be flying a lot right away, maybe try to get 4 batteries. Otherwise I'd start with 2 if that's all you can afford, and get more later.

u/BroFromTheMiddleEast · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

I would replace the VTX you chose for the tx526 as you can change it's output power and it isn't as massive as the ts832 (you will most likely run into problems mounting it in the martian 220).

Like another commenter said, you should buy bigger motors, maybe rs2205s I can vouch that the rs2205s are practically indestructible and run very very smooth.

You should get 4s batteries, I use tattu 4s 1300mah 75c batteries on my martian 220 with rs2205s motors and just this week I got a shipment of cnhl Lipos.

You should get VR-D2 Pros goggles, they are much better bang for buck, diversity+dvr for 90$.

u/ma11ock · 1 pointr/flying

Man, you don’t fly much RC do you. RC lipo packs are literally multiple pouch cells glued together, leads soldered to the end tabs. Definitely no circuits of any kind, and no hard case.

Ive flown well over a thousand hours of RC, built quite a large number of fixed wing and multirotor UAVs for fun, and I’ve worked on multiple large electric aircraft in my career. I am speaking from experience.

The bottom line is that SUAS / manned aircraft collisions are going to do a substantial amount of damage, as this study and others that test ingestion into turbofans (for example) demonstrate. But it’s silly to think of SUAS batteries as a bomb that will inevitably go off and start a fire. It’s possible, just like Jet-A fires are possible, under the right circumstances.

u/Martyskiesairspace · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I would recommend wraith32 escs if you're going to spend that much money. They support a higher dshot and are rated for more amps.

You should get a Pagoda-2, it's designed to work with a case which protects the axial ratio of the antenna.

And lastly those batteries are good but they're cheaper on amazon

u/shutupshake · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

> I ended up with a bunch of 550mah 3S batteries: can I use them to tinker with this build?

I suspect you would get a minute of lackluster performance from those batteries on a 5" quad. However, those are great bats for a 2" build. So save them.

> Battery options once I'm 100% ready to fly?

Amazon sells Tattu and Infinity Graphene 1300 mAh 4S batteries that would work well with your rig. Ensure you get a high C rating (60+).

> Prop options?

Those DAL props are great. Other options are the HQ 5x4.3x3 props.

> Extra wires?

I have never needed to buy extra wires. You'll collect plenty from parts you buy.

> I feel much more comfortable dealing with this kind of merchant.

There are other reputable merchants with US stock at competitive prices. Examples are,,, etc. The amazon/ebay merchants are mostly just buying from the overseas guys and upping the price. But I understand the sentiment.

As far as checking your build. You'll probably need to buy an XT60 connector and wire to solder to the FC/PDB (Like these). You'll need need some battery straps (Like these). You'll need a vtx antenna (rec: Foxeer).

Do you have a battery charger?

Do you have FPV goggles?

u/takeshikun · 1 pointr/Multicopter

You're spot on for the propeller measurements. One thing to keep in mind is almost everyone runs 5" props, so you'll have a lot more options if you build based around that. The only benefit you can find from 6" is if are intentionally trying to do efficient flying for more time, otherwise you won't really see much of a difference.
The additional benefit of smaller props is that you can go a bit smaller on your build, which means less force across the frame when you land and less breaking. I find that 4mm arms are the sweet spot for durability, 3mm is just a little bit low for anything above 150mm. Removable arms are even better while learning, so you don't have to replace the entire frame if one breaks.

I have normal Prime, but not sure if the stuff that shows as Prime eligible for me is the same as the one-day eligible stuff for you. That being said, if I had to build a drone from Amazon right now, I'd go with:

Frame 1 or 2 (actually have this one from a previous build)
ESCs (I prefer separate ESCs rather than 4-in-1 or all-in-1 in case anything breaks)
Flight controller
Props 1 or 2 depending on what your motors can handle, should be able to do either based on that kv and measurement
Receiver (assuming you get the QX7)
Video transmitter
Balance board for charging multiple batteries

Left out motors since it sounds like you have some in mind. This kind of build will have plenty of power, probably hover at around 30% throttle if I had to guess, so just keep that in mind. You can tone it down manually by getting some less aggressive propellers, in the flight controller max throttle, or on your transmitter max throttle, but I recommend just getting used to it. Also mess around in simulators, there weren't any when I started out and I would have probably saved a few hundred in parts if they were (though parts back then were like 8x the cost they are today).

u/Snozaz · 1 pointr/Multicopter
u/notmygoodsn · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

awesome, thanks! I think I've mostly got it figured out now, and I believe I need 4 parts total...

u/barracuz · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Yeah it's a pretty common cheap tx for beginners. I can't find any mode 2 tx on Amazon. I think this one is a mode 2 so should work.

And here's the cable you need for use with simulators or any game.

Or if you want a better Tx that's 'futureproof' consider paying more and getting a Taranis Qx7. It's about 100 bucks and both the hardware and firmware are better in quality and there is gobs and gobs of support online as it's one of the most used TX in the whole RC hobby. Plus there's no extra adapter cable needed to use with Sims. Any micro USB cable, plug it in to your PC and it's auto recognized by most Sims.

u/Manster21 · 1 pointr/TinyWhoop

Emax Baby Hawk (amazon doesn't sell the BNF version):

Taranis Q X7:

Eachine VR-007 Pro:

These are far from the best components you can buy, but for the money they're hard to beat. Also, I believe the Babyhawk comes with 1 battery. You'll definitely want a few more, as well as a charger.

u/DiscoBandit8 · 1 pointr/battlestations

Pro tip, get these to replace the big shark fin antenna

u/bizzy11 · 1 pointr/sffpc

Maybe these?

u/thescreensavers · 1 pointr/sffpc

For 55$ nope :D cheap short antennas exist for example.

I know that's not what you were looking at but just fyi

u/LoneKrafayis · 1 pointr/ASRock

You can use almost any Male RP-SMA antenna that claims to work with the frequencies that matter to you. This is usally means that it claims to work in the 2.4 and 5 GHz range.

The almost is due to the close proximity of the two connectors. They will not be able to accommodate antennas with larger connectors.

These small and cheap ones work, but might not give the full range.

u/Touchdown_Syndrome · 0 pointsr/AskReddit I saw this in the best 20 dollars you can spend thread yesterday. I am anxiously waiting its arrival.

u/man_trash · 0 pointsr/Quadcopter


Awesome little quadcopter for what it is. About the size of your palm so you can fly it indoors or out, durable so you can crash a few times and not worry too much about breaking it, and cheap enough you won't have a heart attack if you do. You're gonna crash a lot learning to fly so don't go for anything crazy to begin with. Get a bunch of extra propellers and a pack of 5 extra batteries and he can fly for about an hour straight, and you're still only around $60. If you want to upgrade from this, there's another version of this same thing with a camera and screen for first person flying that comes in around $100

u/idiotsecant · -1 pointsr/Physics

?? Take it easy Killer, I'm not saying they don't exist, just that none I've ever had haven't had variable pitch. I had this, which is variable pitch and is 20 bucks. Calm it down.

u/istandalone951 · -2 pointsr/Multicopter

I love these little Hubsan X4’s. I always buy the version without a camera and without the “altitude hold/flight stabilization” horseshit. The basic plain Jane 4”quad. One of the X4’s with a half dozen batteries (always upgrade battery, don’t buy stock lipos they suuuck) and you’ll have an absolute blast for $40. Also great for night flight with the leds.