(Part 2) Best hobby tool glues according to redditors

I like using a combination of sculpting putty and Zap-a-gap glue. The glue is a cyanoacrylate but they've added some things to ensure it works really well for filling gaps.

Things to make sure before you start glueing: flat on flat doesn't work well. Use a hobby knife to score lines in both surfaces (I use a grid pattern), then apply the glue. The rough texture makes it adhere a lot better.

If there's a pin-hole type of situation going on, a sandwich of glue, tiny bit of putty, glue generally works fairly well. Use a sculpting tool to deal with the blobs that come out when you put the parts together. If you sculpt it to the side a little afterwards, you get an additional bit of grip and sturdyness.

From someone who has never put together a miniature model before KDM, it wasn't that bad actually. Some models are a pain in the ass due to how small the pieces are, and fitting into your fingers.

Most of the models are pretty straightforward. You can use vibrant lantern (http://vibrantlantern.com/) to find how to put together any models that the official KDM website doesn't have.

The armor kits take a little bit more in figuring out how they are supposed to go. Armor kits can make up to 4 survivors, and you can mix and match gear so it's really up to you how to decide to build them.

Also, if you aren't painting them, the stuff below is all you'll need:

Pacer Technology (Zap) Brush on Zap a Gap Adhesives, 1/4 oz

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0SE60/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1/2 oz

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SXJJ2OU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Professional 8 PCS Gundam Model Tools Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GH6B3Z6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alvin Deluxe Professional Self-Healing Cutting Mat

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015AOIYI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On binding, this stuff works better than super glue.

Get some epoxy 5 minute glue we always have it when we go flying out at the field. also https://www.radicalrc.com/category/Epoxy-390

https://www.amazon.com/Great-Planes-Epoxy-Pro-Adhesive/dp/B001BHI4JU

Good questions. Yes there is Testors special glue for clear parts. It's basically PVA (Elmer's) glue and it has a fairly weak hold. Wood glue is a type of PVA glue - that's probably why you read that it will work. Let me list a few other options that I use.

​

1. Formula 560 Canopy Glue by Pacer - This is like a Testor's clear parts glue (a PVA) but much stronger.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Canopy-Glue-Flexible-2oz/dp/B0006O8EVM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3L2U59ZA98WJS&keywords=formula+560+canopy+glue&qid=1558440227&s=gateway&sprefix=formula+560%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3
   
   ​
   
   
2. SuperGold + by Bob Smith Industries - This is a very strong CA glue (superglue). It's special because it's a superglue (and I think the only one too) that doesn't release fumes and won't fog up clear parts.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Industries-BSI-139H-Super-Gold/dp/B01FWZNQ1M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=supergold+%2B+glue&qid=1558440381&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell
   
   ​
   
   Hope this helps

Here ya go!

Dritz Glue Thread End 2oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AG0PJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pwhTDb8EE1325

The third method is basically up to you. I can tell you from what I see, and what I am doing now, is simply one or two prints of each image. Size is completely up to you and usually based on the quality of the image of course. That is where you kinda play the game "will this sell at this size?". Usually, the bigger the better in the eyes of the consumer. If it is bigger, they will pay more, if it is smaller, they will pay less.

The third method is best used when you are attempting to grow your profit margin, as in the materials aren't to expensive if you do your shopping.

Here is a good idea of what it will cost you.

Elmers Foam Board 10 Pack of Black - $36.49 USD no shipping w/Prime

x-acto blade for Foam Boards - as low as 9 bucks, this is comes with 2 blades, and will last quite some time

Spray Adhesive - $6 cheaper in store

Cheap T-Square, nothing fancy needed - 4 bucks

Now, the T-Square, and Blade are products that can last a while. All Together you spend about $55 USD, at the swapper, for 8x10's, I saw prints going for $30 and they were selling.

You almost made your money back in one sell.

I’ve tried metal screen patches and two different fiberglass screens. Fiberglass is the way to go for sure. I got lucky and found a few sheets of fiberglass screen at a hobby shop that specializes in scale models like trains and architectural models.

As far as cutting/gluing/positioning, I use some cheap calipers to get a rough measurement of the screen dimensions and just keep dry-fitting and moving the screen around with the tip of my knife or a toothpick or something until I’m happy with it. The calipers also come in real handy when cutting plasticard for vehicle armor, or really any plasticard work. Personally, I like to put the screen on the inside, so it involves drilling out the peened post ends as mentioned. When it comes time to glue, I use Zap-A-Gap super glue and these precision tips to set one corner of the screen, then once it’s mostly cured, slowly work around the edge of the screen, gluing and tamping it down and waiting for a section to have some good adhesion before moving to the next section of the screen. It takes a while but the methodical nature helps preserve my sanity when messing with the mesh.

Dritz makes it- Dritz Glue Thread End . I assume it’s similar to like fray check products, super glue could work in a pinch but may oxidize and look weird over time.

Preperation is key to a great paint job. A little filler putty (http://www.amazon.com/Tube-White-Putty-Squadron-Tools/dp/B000H7L6RC) and some pre sanding with fine grit sandpaper will do wonders for your end product. Nice looking first effort regardless!

2 part epoxy. Mix equal parts. Do not mix all of it unless you want to use all of it. [Tamiya epoxy] (https://www.amazon.com/Epoxy-Sculpting-Putty-by-Tamiya/dp/B000BMTGX4)
Disclaimer: that might not be the cheapest option. You will also need to paint.

No one has said anything yet, but I use Zap-a-gap and it seems to work better than the GW stuff does.

Pacer - 1/4 oz. Zap-A-Gap CA+ Pt-04 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L986E2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZLjCzbJHTHCFH

Hey what's up! Sorry for the late reply but this is what I bought to glue on - road tires on my Tamiya tt-02d. I recommend taking off each tire and foam if installed, remove and dust and debris before gluing the tires. There are several tutorials on YouTube on how to do it properly, but it's fairly easy.

Glue

Traxxas 6468 Ultra Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AHX9W5O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Tires

HobbyPark 1/10 On Road Tires... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079MFYHC8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Not the rarest and most expensive but as a 1/144 collector, these ranks as some of the exclusive and limited good modern kits (Most of them have other variations too):

• HGUC RX-0 Unicorn Gundam Unit 3 Phoenix (Destroy Mode) Ver. GFT (Limited Gold Coating)
  
• HG 1/144 Scale OO Raiser Gundam ANA Color Ver.
  
• HGUC NZ-666 Kshatriya - Pearl Clear Binder Ver.
  
• HGUC Gundam GP01Fb - Linkin Park ver.
  
• HGUC 1/144 RB-79 Ball [Gundam Thunderbolt Ver]
  
  

I ordered this one from Amazon, it’s really great you only need a little and it goes tacky quickly so you’re not holding pieces together forever.

Going to a pet store or model train store will get you a lot of cheap terrain that looks reasonably good. If you have some coin to throw around, I may recommend a nicer tree set, like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JXW7OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've bought a couple packs of those before, and they look frankly fantastic.

My forest boards usually have a mix of nice/expensive trees and cheaper trees to fill up the board. Remember to get some line-of-sight blocking hills and cliffs to, and it's always nice to have a building or two.

For basing I'd recommend styrene sheets. They're cheap, easy to cut (I just use common scissors) and work well with regular model superglue.

Rule #2 - When working with CA glue, always have some debonder near by.

https://www.amazon.com/Great-Planes-Pro-Debonder-oz/dp/B002EZ5CN4

I often use this guy on small parts. However, I have been converted to this method of gluing using both Mr. Cement Deluxe and Mr. Cement S.

From GundamBuilder.com:

> I really think that one should buy both of these products, as they are also complementary to each other; use the Deluxe type is for the initial setting of plastic parts and use the S type for extra added melding support.

It really does give a superb bond! Remember to use www.camelcamelcamel.com if you can wait around for prices to drop. I was lucky enough to pickup both for under a dollar each a while back.

Whatever you do, abolutly stay away from this garbage. If you happen to have some laying around, however, this guy has some sound advice for how to use it.

Look on amazon for Jet slow, or Jet medium.

This is what I use: http://www.amazon.com/Great-Planes-6-Minute-Formula-GPMR6045/dp/B001BHGDXE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1419832389&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=jet+epoxy

But its more difficult to use. I mix up a tiny batch and use a dental pick to apply drops in strategic places. Any of the glues can and will seep out and make a hell of a mess if you overdo them.

Practice with some shitty plastic you don't need before you actually move to phone frames.

Sorry one last favor: could you recommend a CA?

I see the following that I looked up on Amazon, but if there is some other one you recommend, please do:

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I used to create something like this as a kid using zap glue and spraying way too much zip kicker on it. It comes out pure white like styrofoam. Be careful because it is exothermic. Gave myself quite a burn once doing it. Not a scientist and not sure exactly how safe it is. The volume will also be way less than a can of Great Stuff, but maybe an idea?

I'll give that glue a try! I used my usual superglue but after 2-3 minutes, it didn't stick at all >_<

As far as sculpting goes, I find that Tamiya Epoxy Putty works the best. Here's a link if you want to try it out: https://www.amazon.com/Epoxy-Sculpting-Putty-by-Tamiya/dp/B000BMTGX4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501785583&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+epoxy+putty

Since you have some modeling experience you probably know how to remove sprue gate and mold lines, but on miniatures it is worth taking that extra effort to prep the model before painting to make sure it is nice and smooth.

I have not used poly cement, but I would recommend having 2 types of glue handy, some super glue which I bought at my FLGS, and some plastic glue also bought at FLGS.

Another great item to have is some brush cleaner, I recommend masters brush cleaner. It is great for keeping your brushes in shape longer and helping them keep a point.