I've been looking at internet-enabled home devices (think Nest) and Cloud-anything has been a deal breaker for me EVERYTIME! Hell, the first-gen Nest's had the same issue - "Thanks for supporting us at the beginning, now fuck you! ;)"

I've managed to find some really nice hardware for my Thermostat, Sprinkler Controller (though I bought the 12-station controller) as well as hackable Wifi 120v (or 240v) light and switch controllers for $5-8 each!! And I totally forgot about my OpenGarage!

Each of these have open "REST" APIs that accept LAN requests to their local webserver (e.g. 192.168.1.15/api/do/something?key=secret&on=true) so they are wide-open to program against.

Or a thermostat lock box for $15.99

here are tips i can add to the pile; get an accurate remote thermostat or humidistat for your window A/C units.

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

thermostats built into most A/C units are cheap, inaccurate and cycle your unit on/off unnecessarily.

what i do is plug an A/C rated appliance extension cord into this thermostat, then my A/C into the extension cord so the distance between the A/C and the thermostat is now across the room. this separate thermostat helps keep your A/C unit from cycling too much by moderating the temperature where you actually are in the room.

when you plug your A/C into this thermostate, set the A/C thermostate on lowest and fan on always. that way when the remote thermostate goes on the A/C will always be on Cool+Fan no matter what the temperature is.

some new A/C units have temperature sensing thermostat built into the remote control that you keep accross the room from the A/C unit window, so look for this feature when you are buying a new window unit as it should help you be more comfortable at higher ambient temperatures without your A/C cycling too much;

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036WTWCQ (i do not own this A/C, i just link it as an example)

.

if you really want to save money on A/C, you could set your unit to go on/off based on HUMIDITY, not temperature. to do that you will need to buy (and apply the same way as the above a remote thermostat);

http://www.amazon.com/DAYTON-1UHG2-Dehumidifier-Control-Plug/dp/B001OLVNU0

so when the room Humidity gets uncomfortably above 50%, only then will you let the A/C kick on more for it's dehumidification ability, then it's cooling power. once the air is lower in humidity you should be fine with nothing more than a box fan to circulate air against your skin for cooling.

.

if you live in a dry heat zone, combine a fan with a evaporative wick humidifier. as the water evaporates it takes heat energy out of the fan blown air and moderately cools the room. the added humidity will also make you feel more comfortable in the dry air. this approach is commonly known as a desert cooler. evaporative wicks can last all season if you use a capful of bacteriostatic solution in the water. to clean a wick, simply allow it to run dry for a few hours.

http://www.amazon.com/821-000-Digital-Control-Evaporative-Humidifier/dp/B0000D8EJZ

Sous Vide EQUIPMENT is WAY overrated. It has finally started to come down in price, but honestly, you can sous vide with a $30 temperature controller and a thrift store slow cooker (which, honestly, most people already have). I get excellent results with that exact setup.

I've seen people get great results with a Styrofoam ice chest, a thermometer, and tea kettle on the stove. They were able to maintain the temp within a few degrees by just checking once an hour.

/u/tainttrauma, read his post again. He has electric baseboards. Those have line voltage thermostats. You've recommended low voltage units.

Yea, that's not gonna' work for him.

There aren't a whole lot of options for smart line voltage units. Especially if the baseboards have a fan incorporated into them.

This one MIGHT work. Need to see if it is compatible with O.P.'s units:

https://www.amazon.com/STZW402WB-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

It depends if you want to control everything from one place or don;t mind using a separate app for each thing. IF you want an all-in-one solution, the best bet is a Vera pro or VeraLite from MiCasaVerde. You don't have to re-invent the wheel as most of your wants will work right out of the box. What it doesn't natively do, it is almost guaranteed that someone has already done the modification and you can just grab their code.

For the lock I would go with a Yale or Schlage. Even Kwikset has zigbee and z-wave models. Honeywell makes a nice thermostat for cheap. There are several ways to integrate your doorbell as well.

Otherwise, Nest is great, Dropcam is awesome, There are a whole host of cool single-focus products out there.

It reminds me of a thermostat guard. I can't quite see how this would function as one, but it could be something similar. It has just enough access for some functions, but blocks others maybe.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPGP6M

If it is an apartment, then you likely don't need an ecobee3. You could get the cheaper ecobee Smart Si. It does everything you want - "Set Away", "IFTTT channel", "Usage report". It is also a WiFi thermostat that you can control using an app or via the web.

One thing that you should consider is whether your thermostat is powered by a "C" wire or uses batteries. If there is no "C" available, then the simplest choice would be the Emerson Sensi thermostat. It would also be the cheapest option.

Go to your local used appliance store, or Habitat for Humanity, and find the smallest refrigerator you can find. Think dorm room size, if possible.

Get a hole saw and drill two four inch holes in the sides; one high on the right side, and the other low on the left side. Over the lower hole screw one of these:

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-120vac-4-fan?variant=5717368453

The other hole gets one of these screwed to the outside:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-4-in-PVC-DWV-Closet-Flange-C4851HD4/100345759

Now buy a few pieces of 4" PVC. Straight, elbows, anything you think would be good to direct the air to the area the plants are sitting. Since cold air falls, perhaps run it to the roof of the enclosure over the plant stands.

Now turn it on. In a few minutes you should feel cool air falling gently over the open rack shelving that your plants will sit on.

Now you need to control it. Buy one or two of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Plug the small fridge into one outlet, and the fan into the other, if you want them separate. Turn the internal thermostat on the fridge to the lowest setting you can. It will stay there 'till the end of time. It will not be needed to control the temps. The outlet controller will do that.

Finished. Total cost: maybe $100 to $150 USD, depending on what kind of bargain you drive for the little fridge. And you can use it for a second duty. It will keep your drinks cold while you are puttering amongst the greenery.

Put a thermostat outlet switch like this in your tent and plug the AC unit into it.

Make sure whatever sort of thermostat switch you use is able to handle the wattage of your AC unit.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XM1RzbEZRFSFN

Edit: this link is just an example. Not something I have personally used. The next comment links to what looks like a better unit.

>Despite the fact that you're burning them to create the smoke that you're tasting, if a cigar is COLD when it burns, it doesn't taste as good as a cigar at room temp when it burns.

Are you tasting the cigar or the smoke? Because the very existence of smoke means that a very specific combustion temperature has been reached. Not to mention, it wouldn't take long at all for a "cold" cigar to come up to room/body temp, especially if you smoke outside and/or hold it in your (warm) mouth. I don't think this is anywhere near as big a deal as you're making it out to be. And if it is, your wineador is probably running colder than it needs to.

As to the mold issue, I've not ever had a single issue with condensation in my wineador. The biggest issue with generic wine coolers (like mine) is the inbuilt thermostat. They're total hot garbage. When I first got mine, I set it to 66°, but it just ran constantly. The hygros inside were reading >50° and still the cooler kept going. These days I run a cheap chinese ETC (Electric/Digital Temperature Controller) between my wineador and the AC socket, and even that one is MILES better than the built-in temp controller. It cools it to a specific range (I've got mine set for 68.5-70) and then shuts off. Since installing it, I've not seen a single drop of condensation in my wineador. My humidity is rock steady and I can smoke everything just fine directly out of the wineador.

tl;dr - A cheap ETC will solve literally every issue you mentioned.

Anything to hold the temperature should work. I should say, there are even easier methods to ghetto-rig a sous-vide.

Also, if you're interested in sous-vide at all (which IMHO you should be, it's amazing), and you're on a limited budget, I've heard that this guy gives great results when you combine it with a cheap manual crock-pot.

I just got one of these for $27. Worked great.

I have electric baseboard heat in my basement.

This is what I use to control it.

It works great.

Beat's the hell out of my old setup of a transformer, relay, and standard stat.

Pick a controller of your choice to control them all. Home Assistant on a Pi would be the cheapest local solution to get going.

If you are looking for a not so smart but reliable thermostat switch, I recently got one of these and have been reliable: Lux WIN100 Automatic Heating & Cooling 5-2 Day Programmable Outlet Thermostat, Compatible with Portable A/C, Fans, and Space Heaters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bAIXDbYAV1WBB

You don't need to pay up for an ecobee if this is all you want. Just look for a thermostat with an "auto" mode. It looks like this one may do what you want: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH6450D1009-5-1-1-Day-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B003VIWQL4/ref=lp_495354_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486797210&sr=1-13.

It won't factor in the outside temperature, just the inside temp, but it sounds like all you really care about is auto switching from heat to cool.

Honeywell is my go-to brand for thermostats.

I know you said non wifi, but personally, I think the slightly higher cost for the wifi version is justifiable. It gives you the option to adjust the temperature down before you come home, adjust if you're out and realize you didnt' change it, and monitor house temps while you're out of town. Not to mention the added ease of programming from your computer versus using the buttons on the unit.

We use one of these to automate the process. It's $25 bucks up front, but you can automate turning your heat off entirely while you're at work (if you have a set schedule).

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH2300B1012-5-2-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B007BHLUWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427158198&sr=8-1&keywords=programmable+thermostat

You can use this device with just about any slow cooker or turkey roaster. It is similar to the Codlo others have linked here but way cheaper. I have never used the Codlo to know if it is worth it but the Willhi controller has been running strong for many uses.

Yes you can. This one is rock solid and $78.

Honeywell Home Wi-Fi 7-Day Programmable Thermostat (RTH6580WF), Requires C Wire, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y6M2OUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oIdzDbG5DTREV

I just ordered a couple of these.

Stelpro Z-Wave Plus KI STZW402WB+ Thermostat (White) for Electric Baseboards and Convectors

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYL1OAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yap9BbV3PDQET

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-CG511A1000-Thermostat-Prevent-Tampering/dp/B000BPGP6M

Do it

Find a basic non electronic one.

Oil filled heaters are brilliant BUT the built in thermostats don't work. They can't as they are beside the heat source. Use something like this rated for at least as many watts as your heater is rated for:

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

You can't do this with an electronic model as they will reset, but if you get something like this you can control the thermostat properly. Don't plug it into an outside wall that has poor insulation or you will loose accuracy.

If I understand you correctly, I think you want something like this

This works best if you have great insulation and double-pane windows. We don't...so supercooling just made us cold while it ran, hot while it didn't, and jacked a "normal" $300/mo APS bill to $450+.

That was three years ago. I bought a window mount swamp cooler (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bonaire-Durango-4-500-CFM-3-Speed-Window-Evaporative-Cooler-6280030/204679889) plus a plugin thermostat (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/), plumbed it with black 1/4" irrigation tubing, and haven't looked back since. We now only run the AC the last two weeks of July and all of August. 11/10 with rice, highly recommend.

You're main electrical draws are going to be your major appliances then lighting. Though there isn't really one thing you can do to see a huge decrease in power consumption doing a few things together would be noticeable.

• Turning the temp of you're fridge/freezer up a degree or two always helps, obviously don't go to high or that defeats the purpose.
  
  
• Keeping your blinds drawn, or getting semi transparent blinds, to block out the sun and keep your apartment cooler will help reduce your AC consumption by a lot, which is easily your largest draw during the summer.
  
  
• Using the timer on your AC can actually see a huge improvement, set your AC to turn off about 1/2 way or 3/4 of the way through the night depending on how warm it is out side. If your AC doesn't have this feature you can always pick up something along these lines.
  
  
• Obviously use CFL bulbs, people often complain about CFL bulbs but I think that's just out of misinformation. Unlike Incandescent bulbs there is a HUGE difference between each CFL brand and even bulbs within the same brand. If you're intrested I can go into further detail on this as there is probably a paragraph or two of information.
  
  
• Look into residential rebate programs from your power provider for anything energy efficient. In order to receive a power generation license in the US your provider must have a program in place to reduce their costumers power consumption by 1% annually. They usually do this by offering rebates on energy efficient items. On CFL bulbs this can be a $1-$4 depending on the area, but on larger appliances, such as an energy efficient window ac (or for home owners furnaces and water heaters) the rebates can become pretty substantial.
  
  
• Make sure all of your electronics actually turn off when they're off. For example if you hit the power button once on the Nintendo Wii it just hibernation mode which cuts the power consumption from 18watts to 10watts (not even a 50% reduction!) where as holding the power button turns the unit off and it will only draw 1 watt. You pretty much have to google your electronics to figure this one out. The other fun way (and is useful in other situations as well) is to pick up a Kill-o-watt. These nifty little guys will show you the power draw of whatever is plugged into it, I usually have mine plugged into my fridge or my power strip for my entertainment center. You could plug in your entertainment center power strip and reset the meter before you go to bed to see how much power everything is drawing when you're not using it, you will be surprised!
  
  
• Finally the biggest and hardest one, behavior modification. The biggest waste of power in the world is power not being utilized. I once surveyed a site that had multiple buildings, one of which was vacant. The site didn't realize the lights were coming on in the vacant building because of a timer and had spent $15,000 a year for the last 4 years lighting up an empty building. Make sure to turn off the lights when you're done, take the milk out of the fridge then SHUT the fridge, turn off your electronics when you're are done (or at least hibernate them). These things are the hardest to do but once the habit is formed it won't be an issue.
  
  Off the top of my head that's what I got! If I think of other things I will add them! Also I apologize if some of my numbers are off, I've been out of the industry for a few years now.

This is kind of ghetto, but i use something like this. I run an extension cable into my fridge, then plug that into the extension cord (which is inside the fridge), then plug the fridge into that thing. Once the temp goes over what i set, it turns on the fridge until the temp is acceptible - so if you're looking to add a heating aspect to it i'd recommend another avenue. There are love controllers, PIDs, and some greenhouse stores have other types of temp controllers like the style i use but have an outlet for heat and an outlet for cooling.

It looks like a monster but it's functional... The black cable is the fridge's plug, which is plugged into the controller, which is plugged into the blue extension cord.

Keep doors to unused rooms closed. Electric is very efficient, it's just that it's usually more expensive than gas. Light bulbs double as 100 percent efficient heaters. Fans on low generate heat and, if spinning in the proper direction help circulate warm air from the ceiling. Depending on your gas heater, some thermoelectric fans are pretty helpful.

Agree with the CO monitors. I have a Nest monitor and it doubles as a nice nightlight.

If you have electric baseboards or forced air, they can be more efficiently controlled with a new thermostat. Chances are you have the shitty twist knob ones that heat the room to 90 then turn off until it's 50 again.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=baseboard+thermostat&qid=1571606653&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/TOMERSUN-Powered-Fireplace-Circulating-Efficiently/dp/B07VQNGKLK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=thermoelectric+fan&qid=1571606558&sr=8-4

https://www.hansenwholesale.com/ceiling-fans/fan-direction-summer-winter

Numbers sound spot on - I'm in MD and accidentally set my thermostat to a permanent hold of 68 for most of the month for the previous bill and paid $209.

Drop the temp setting, especially at night and during the day when you're not there. A simple programmable thermostat will pay for itself in a year and are simple DIY installs. I recommend a weekday/weekend one - set it up once and you're good. You can even get fancy and get a Wi-Fi one like Nest for $200 - they'll still save you money.

It sucks at first (I used to be a 70 degree man myself) but you get used to it. Right now I have a blanket wrapped around me, and my wool socks + slippers on. If the blanket's not on me, I'm often sporting a comfy-ass robe that has the bonus effect of making me feel like a Jedi. But hey, we never pay more than $150 in the winter.

Simple programmable thermostats like this one ($22) are cheap and pretty easy to install. National Grid also has rebate programs for some kinds of thermostats.

These let you program your heat to be warmer on a timer, but to automatically set it cooler (like 60 instead of 69ºF) during the day when you're not home, and at night when you're sleeping. Then you don't have to remember,

Ask your landlord if they'd be amenable to you getting one, or putting one in for you.

The honewell thermostat review is right up there....

look at the review from the general:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FLZEQH2/ref=pdp_new_dp_review

I have the Honeywell RTH9580WF and it works with my Echo. It also works with SmartThings, but I rarely use SmartThings to control it. Honeywell's app works well, although it's a bit dated looking.

As far as fireplace switches go, there have been a few threads on this subreddit about it, I recommend searching for them.

I've had a great experience with Radio Thermostat. I have 2x CT50s that I bought used for ~$60/ea. Just make sure you get one with the wifi module. They run a web service for control & logging but the android app communicates directly w/ the thermostat if on the same network.

http://www.amazon.com/Radio-Thermostat-Programmable-Enabled-Controls/dp/B00KQS35XA

This, yes.

Looked up bug-kill temps, and what you need is 133°F in the center of the wood for 30 minutes. Make it two hours per inch, I'm guessing.

Make a box out of polyiso board and foil tape, and make sure there is good air circulation. A hair dryer might work for circulation and for heat. Control thermostats are pretty cheap.

Either bulbs or ceramic heaters should work just about the same. Best to use a thermostat like this to control the temperature.

Different species like different temperatures. Blue oysters do well in the 55-65 F, pink oysters are a tropical species so they like it considerably warmer. It should be a relatively stable temperature. You could get a space heater and hook it up to a thermostat controller.

Oh, for sure. It's all about the right tool for the right job. Slow cookers are better for braising type applications. Chicken breasts don't braise well.

> And also, just because I like being contrary, all you need to do sous vide is a styrofoam cooler, a thermometer and a zip top bag.

Speaking of right tool for the right job, this is like hammering a nail with a rock. It's possible, but so time and attention consuming, it's hardly worth it.

I have one of these which works great with my slow cooker. They don't work with the fancy programable slow cookers, but who needs one of those anyway. lol

+1 for Honeywell, but no need for a "smart" thermostat for this. The only benefit you're missing out with a regular wifi is the "learning" capabilities of the smart unit. A simple wifi unit will be controllable from your phone, and are a fraction of the cost of the smart units.

These units are currently $90, but I've regularly seen them or similar units on sale for ~$80. Take a look at your local big box and see if they have any deals.

Another thing to check is to see if your utility providers offer any sort of rebates or incentives for smart or wifi thermostats.

Keep in mind that a lot of smart or wifi thermostats require a common wire, so if you have dont have one and don't have the extra wire you may need to run a new wire.

Since you're on National Grid, you can get a smart thermostat for free if you don't want to shell out the cash for a Nest. The Honeywell RTH6580WF is only $64 on Amazon, and Mass Save will give you a rebate of up to $100 (rebate form here).

Having a WiFi thermostat is great. You can program it to turn down automatically at night and when you're away at work, and when you're away you can monitor the temperature remotely or turn the thermostat down if you forgot to do so before you left. If you want to get really fancy, you can link the thermostat to https://ifttt.com and have it automatically adjust the thermostat based on the weather, whether your and your wife's phones are a certain distance from home, if you have a trip on your calendar, etc.

$83: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Programmable-Thermostat-RTH6580WF-Requires/dp/B00Y6M2OUC/

I use this one and it's great.

https://store.nest.com/ca/products/T4000EF

$229, so it's $129.00 after the rebate


https://www.amazon.ca/Honeywell-RCHT8610WF2006-Programmable-Touchscreen-Thermostat/dp/B01LTHM8LG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511545267&sr=8-1&keywords=thermostat

This is $127.00 so $27.00 after the rebate.

In case you don’t see the other answer, if it is “dumb” in that it’s just a dial and a switch, turn it to the highest temperature and leave it on then plug it into a thermostat type device like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NG8MZK/

My house is decently insulated and the heat works fairly well, that is with exception of my bedroom. The bedroom is upstairs but only has a single radiator for what is the largest single room in the house. It's comfortable until the coldest parts of the cycle, and with one thermostat that's downstairs it's never going to get better.

I use an electric heater with a remote thermostat that I bought on Amazon (link below) in my bedroom. This allows me to turn down the heat in the entire house at night and to save on gas while also meaning my bedroom isn't fucking freezing come 5am. It's a nice balance of heat and $. I use a cheap electric heater (link below), it's surprisingly quiet and will easily take the chill off the room.

All of that said, a programmable thermostat is also golden. Turn the heat down when you're at work and asleep. Also, insulate your windows (and make sure they are locked as it helps seal the frame) with plastic covering and cover door gaps with blankets or heavy door mats. All these little tricks add up.

A $200 bill is a big gas bill in my three bedroom house, but you'll have to give this a shot to decide if it saves money.

Thermostat for electric heater - https://www.amazon.com/Nashone-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-thermostat/dp/B071NG8MZK/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=thermostat+wireless&qid=1572803946&sr=8-12

Electric heater - https://www.amazon.com/Brightown-Adjustable-Thermostat-Portable-Protection/dp/B01L1O7MPE/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=electric+heater&qid=1572804045&sr=8-8

The problem here is that you're trying to apply a solution that will end up causing more problems than it will solve. You're talking about staple-up radiant heat in a home with a thick decking subfloor (much thicker than the 3/4 OSB or plywood that's standard in more modern homes) that's below very old softwood floors that are likely to warp on you if you go through with your plan. On top of that, you're gonna be looking at running a 240v breaker for it (assuming your home's electrical can handle another breaker and the extra load, if it's even been upgraded to breakers from old Edison fuses and the meter has been upgraded from the old 60A - I see you stated elsewhere that the electrical hasn't been updated). You're talking a four, possibly five figure investment versus $200 in ductwork and an additional vent, or a simple space heater and a plug-in thermostat.

To realistically do this the right way, you'd need to first update all the electrical, pull up the flooring, install an appropriate system (hot water/glycol would be a better choice than resistive), and replace and refinish the floors.

My grandpa's house is 100 years old. I'm well aware of what happens when you start tearing into and modifying homes that old: nothing good. TBH, this should be near the bottom of the "honey do" list.

[cough cough....I'll just leave this here](http://www.Honeywell.com/ CG511A1000/C Medium The[cough cough I'll just leave this here](http://www.Honeywell.com/ CG511A1000/C Medium Thermostat Guard with Inner Shelf to Prevent Tampering (Clear) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000BPGP6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NR84CbN0YABKB)

Like a thermostat cover?

https://smile.amazon.com/Honeywell-CG511A1000-Thermostat-Prevent-Tampering/dp/B000BPGP6M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526416064&sr=8-3&keywords=thermostat+cover

Double check your dimensions based on your AP but I'd think something like that would work.

However, I've taken the APs apart, and if they're well mounted they'll likely hold up to most hits from most objects.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPGP6M?cache=463d98138e8baf7d6cd55acf56906614&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1410403482&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1


This. Until he starts paying his share. There will be drama but if he's not putting in he has no right.

Mine was in the same condition. I rewired the fridge with a thermostat AC controller for around 40 bucks... http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322063771&sr=8-1

The controller maintains the temp so I'm not as concerned with a bad seal (granted I'm still doing Ales and keepign it around 65 to 70 degrees). I've managed nearly a dozen brews with this and haven't had issues. I expected some condensation but haven't seen any moisture.

Thanks, man. The fan is a Lasko 4000 Air-Stik Ultra-Slim Oscillating Fan. It's perfect for a micro grow.

My tent sits in near-outdoor conditions, so I have to keep temps up. The smaller device is a Lasko MyHeat Personal Ceramic Heater controlled by a Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat. It pushes enough heat to keep temps as high as ambient +30.

I have this

http://www.amazon.com/WIN100-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/

to use with a window AC with no thermostat. Though typically it runs for 2-3 mins, turns off for 10, on for 2-3 min, etc. , which is a little annoying.

But I mostly just use my window fan pointing at me.

I used a Danby wine fridge somewhat like this, and recently got a similar but wider model from KitchenAid. Granted, I use these to control fermentation temp, rather than as a kegerator.

1. I have never had a huge problem with the icing/ I can attribute this to Arizona's dry air, and also a fan I keep in back. It largely eliminates the ice. It keeps the temperature much more uniform.
   
   
2. Get a fan and a temperature controller. I use some shitty <$10 fan and it is good enough, and this temp controller. It is nice in that no wiring is needed other than maybe an extension cable or two. It will keep your fridge +/- 1 degree F.
   
   Something else I learned the hard way... put something under it. If something happens and you have a leak or otherwise a spillage, it can get nasty. I am looking at getting a tray like those used under other appliances to prevent further disasters.

You can get theses things that you can hook an A/C unit up to and will turn on at set temperature and turn of at another. http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406648156&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=temperature+pkug

Use a themostat...lol

Like this http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Plug your fan in, when it hits a certain temp it will turn on or off depending on the settings.

Without seeing your set up I don't know if my suggestion will work but either point your landlord in this direction or just order one yourself:

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539879277&sr=8-3&keywords=plug+in+thermostat&dpID=313Eh1W4f3L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Pretty simple and straightforward. I use that exact model for a bread proofing box I made out of it, a cooler, and a light bulb.

We use a plug with a thermostat rather than a thermostat on the heater. Works great for us and can also be used with a fan to keep a room cool but shut off when it gets too cold. Have been using it in the kids room for 4 years with nothing but great results.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IV8XBb7JHBTQ8

I was running this LG ACoutside of a 5x5x8 tent and it kept it plenty cool enough. It comes with some in window mounts and a exhaust duct. I had to do some clever rigging on the front in to some flexible ducting and ran that inside the tent to a diffuser. To control the temperature I ran a power cord to this thing and put that inside the tent. I never really found the best place to put it I just kind of had it hanging in the middle. I then had to run the AC's power cord inside the tent to connect to the temperature controller. It all worked very well when I needed it ! I do wish the temp controller had a 'range' you could put on it. It seemed like the AC was off and on a lot so theres prolly a better way to do that! Anyways good luck! oh and here is some PICTURES of how I ducted the cold air

I used one of these when I used to do Bitcoin mining:

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_1

If the room got too hot, it would shut everything down. It could be used for a overheat panic switch.

Oh I didn't realize it plugs in
You want this or something like it. Just plug that into your outlet, plug your wireless switch into that. It will make it so that the switch will not operate or get power until the temperature drops to whatever value you enter.

Hopefully that works for you as it will be entirely plug and play and take less than 5 minutes to set up.

I was going to suggest that first but didn't know if you wanted the cost of running a wall unit. A new, efficient little 5000btu unit shouldn't cost too much to run though.

Something like this though would allow you to set it to only run once it's reached a certain temperature and shut back off when your desired temperature is reached. https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Here is my outdoor setup. I no longer have a bucket, so this is what i use in my box now.

If temp falls below 62- then my heater kicks on and goes til about 82
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Comfort-Zone-5-120-BTU-Multi-Purpose-Ceramic-Heater-Black-CZ442WM/21899614

At 78 my fan turns on and i have is set lower to be less loud. So the heater will turn off while the fan is on exchanging my air out. Once its below 78 the fan turns off and we wait til the heater kicks on again. But the HPS puts off enough to keep it warm usually


http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395131&sr=8-13&keywords=temperature+controller

http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VTSPEED-Variable-Router-Controller/dp/B00EVYGPJQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395084&sr=8-2&keywords=inline+fan+controller

For those who are super lazy.

I've used the small oil filled heaters with a plugin thermostat for when it gets way too cold like these

http://www.amazon.com/Homebasix-CYPB-7-Filled-Radiator-Watts/dp/B001GDIXVI/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8

I think the IR blaster is more error prone than a thermostat power plug. I would just wire the power plug in series with another zigbee power plug that smart things can turn off if the door has been open for more than 5 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

The AC will only run if the door is closed and the room is too warm.

I have a shelf in my basement that I put a door on. I covered the walls of it in styrafoam and added an outlet thermostat. To this I plugged in a heater.

Keeps the wort fermenting at just the right temp all winter. Summertime is a crapshoot, but my basement usually stays under 70 even without AC. With AC it works just like the winter since ambient is about 65.

Mine holds two fermenting buckets at a time. I'm sure you could make a simple wooden box and do the same thing.

Due to the rules of house power outlets all space heaters are created pretty much equal as far as heat output. I have this little guy and quite like it.

I also got one of these to plug it in to so that it would have my room warm for me when I got home from work, but not waste power all day or while I sleep.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q3RQ6

Looks interesting. I am particularly amazed with the $36 thermostat-based outlet control module that amazon recommended at the same time as looking at the AirKing.
http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Here's an idea. Buy a programmable outlet thermostat so the fans only turn on and off when needed. Just set the temperature and let the thermostat do the rest!

I just googled "plug thermostat" and this was the first result. Not sure if your in the US.


https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Automatic-Programmable-Thermostat-Compatible/dp/B000E7NYY8

Probably wrong sub but one of these would work for you
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/

Im actually still using 2008 on my host, and 2012 on the VM's. I havent gotten around to upgrading the host, but im hoping to do it soon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I want one of these:

https://m.lowes.com/pd/GE-20-2-cu-ft-Frost-Free-Upright-Freezer-White/50343450

Hooked up to one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E7NYY8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The thermostat would have to be mounted inside the freezer to keep internal temperature at whatever is ideal for the plants. Most upright freezers even come with a lock on the door!

Sadly you have a direct voltage / line voltage setup (240V). You'd insta-fry your Nest with this.

​

The best you can get (I've been in your situation before) are these: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/r

​

Which still make a huge difference, cost savings wise, to what you have.

Sounds like you are looking for a stat like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=psdc_2054378011_t1_B002Z7EBBU

Hey!

I got a great thermostat from amazon

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B002SQAP1S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539038150&sr=8-3&keywords=thermostat+reptile&dpPl=1&dpID=41e-FX6RbmL&ref=plSrch

I stay in the UK so i think this one will work for you as well😁

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-THP9045A1023-Wiresaver-Wiring-Thermostat/dp/B0060ASWPE

Ahh ok. Well you have two options. Pull new wire (18 gauge 5 or higher # of wires) or buy an add a wire unit, which coincidentally matches the settings on your stat.
Honeywell THP9045A1023 Wiresaver Wiring Module for Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060ASWPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CjiUzbYKV499Q

Thank you I ordered this..... Honeywell THP9045A1023 Wiresaver Wiring Module for Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060ASWPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yi5SCb8GP8FN0

I believe this should solve the issue

Ecobee is definitely the way to go. It's the most expandable and configurable, without being overly complicated if you don't want it to be. If $250 is too rich for your blood, the old smartSI is on sale for $140. You don't get the touchscreen or remote temp/occupancy sensors, but it's otherwise feature-comparable to the 3.

Have you looked at the Ecobee 3 lite?

https://www.amazon.com/Ecobee3-Thermostat-Wi-Fi-Works-Amazon/dp/B01K48T09Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1481110668&sr=1-1&keywords=ecobee+lite

Or the Ecobee Smart Si?

https://www.amazon.com/ecobee-Thermostat-Heat-2-NON-Touch-Screen/dp/B008F40R4C/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1481110747&sr=1-9&keywords=ecobee

I bought a house in March and had the intention of going all in on HA, but so far it hasn't exactly panned out. budgeting for a few good products as i go.

BUT, Here is what i started with so far. I've settled with silo'ed stuff so far. This is what i've done, others will probably have stronger recommendations though.

1. a good wifi router.
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z0V2NQ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
2. Power meter
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XOZG0Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
3. thermostat
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZEQH2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
4. 4x wifi cameras
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145OQTPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
5. entertainment http://www.amazon.com/Sony-STR-DN1050-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00JC31SEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452667821&sr=1-1&keywords=str+dn1050
   
   Yes, that's 5 separate apps on my own Note 4
   
   Next on the list is a zwave hub and garage door controller.
   
   

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FLZEQH2?pc_redir=1414420630&robot_redir=1

Love it, cake to program via WiFi, and getting email alerts for certain environmental triggers is awesome. That and adjusting the thermostat remotely in the case of an unexpected schedule change is nice.

Put the heat mats on a thermostat to avoid the temperature running away on you, or getting too cold if you leave them unplugged.

Pet store thermostats tend to be flaky in my experience. I've had decent luck with units WILLHI and Inkbird. Something like this WILLHI would probably work just fine for you; it has a waterproof and easily replaceable temperature probe you can snake into the tank and leave the control box out on your desk (or wherever) safe from the high humidity in the tank.

I've been taking ice baths for a bit now using plastic water bottles as reuseable ice cubes while filling the tub daily. I have a nice jacuzzi tub available most of the time that is great, but lugging the ice bottles around (my tub is on the 2nd floor, and my freezer is on the 1st floor) and having to re-freeze them every day can be a PITA - as well as having to use new water each day instead of the ability to recycle. My next solution is a chest freezer, which I intend to set up as soon as I am able.

A few tips from my research:

1. Get one big/wide enough for you to fit in comfortably up to and including your shoulders. Checking craiglist for your area is a good starting point for a discounted price. Depending on your size, 10-15 cu ft is a good range to consider.
   
2. Some have a handy shelf inside that can act as a bench; if yours does, you may desire a foam seat pad to put on top to make it slightly softer.
   
3. You can put it on a wall timer (that cycles on/off), then have it run for ~2-4 hours/day to keep the rough temp you desire, or a more accurate option is to get a Outlet Temp Controller (which is my choice method) that will auto on/off for you based on an exact preset water temperature. I enjnoy the idea of setting the tub to a custom temp, based on the length of time I intend to use it as well as the ability to increase cold levels of time.
   
4. When you first fill it with water and want to cool it, either cycle it on/off over multiple days or put a BUNCH of ice in with it - as cooling a lot of water isn't the intended purpose and this will mitigate the strain on the motor cooling system.
   
5. Seal up the inside seams with some silicone sealant (like stuff used for a bath tub), or line the inside with a pool liner for a thicker, reinforced watertight space.
   
6. The cool temp will naturally keep the water cleaner, though using H2O2 is a good way to elongate the life of the water even more. You can get ~5% at most pharmacies, or ~30% at farm supply stores that requires much less.

Color C-41 and E-6 are actually pretty easy when you get over the film sweats. The biggest problem to solve is how to get the chems to temperature and keep them there. Before I upgraded my system I used a crockpot and a home brewing temp controller.

Temp Control

Crockpot

Set the temp controller plug your crockpot into that and fill with water. The temp controller will turn the pot on and off to keep the chems with a degree or so.

Sorry. I have actually have a digital temp controller that switches a circuit on and off based on low and high settings. I hooked it up tonight and set low at 90 and high at 90.7. When it hits 90.7 it shuts off and seems to float up to 91.4 then starts cooling. Circuit (uth) turns back on at 90 but floats to about 89 before it starts warming. So basically I have it set to always be between 89 and 91.4. Thank you for your help.

Edit: this is the control. Overkill for this application but I already had it laying around from a different project.

WILLHI WH1436A Temperature Controller 110V Digital Thermostat Switch Sous Vide Controller NTC 10K Sensor Improved Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dfI2Cb2QX8AEA

I bought two of these and they work great

WILLHI WH1436A 110V - 240V Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Switch NTC 10K Sensor, Improved Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_73huybVEFMJM9

Right now one of them is keeping my beer in the garage at 50 even though it's -5 outside

Check out this DIY solution I found.

I'm planning on building something like this soon. For the temperature control, I'm planning on using this instead.

No no no. All you need is $50.

$25 on a crock pot and $25 on this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V4TJR00/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It'll self regulate the crock pot water to whatever temp you want. A bit less elegant, but way cheaper and you can still crock pot stuff like normal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V4TJR00/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use. Plug controller into wall. Crock pot into controller and temp sensor into water.

Generally I set temp on controller. Set crock pot to high. When it gets close to temp I switch to warm add food and wrap in blanket. Doesn't very to much temp wise.

Dammit, I just bought this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4TJR00?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 will this one suffice?

I'm clueless so sorry for the full link. This is the device. Plug the crock pot into it, and it into the wall. It regulates temp by turning the crock pot off and on to maintain constant temp.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V4TJR00/ref=pd_aw_sbs_328_of_20?ie=UTF8&dpID=51rY7vQjRCL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100%2C100_&refRID=1VVXTWS8E0BGQZ9RPRZ0

I like my Lux GEO (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010PTKWW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DqpyCbRSCRJ40)

I don’t have a c-wire, so the option to power the GEO with a 5W USB adapter works great for me with an outlet located near where my existing 2-wire “dumb” thermostat cable comes out of the wall for my furnace.

Chance are that those baseboard thermostats are 'line voltage' units. Either 115v or 230v AC. Which means that they control the units by turning the power to them on and off.

Conventional (smart) thermostats are low voltage. They operate on 24v AC. They tell relays to operate the system. You cannot use a low voltage unit on a line voltage device. Well, you can, for about 2 seconds. Then you let the smoke out of your new thermostat.

I have seen a StelPro unit, which is designed for your application. You might want to check it out:

https://www.amazon.com/STZW402WB-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

For electric baseboards: https://www.amazon.com/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Thermostat-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

For the main oil heating zones, I would honestly do a few more z-wave thermostats then pull it all together with your home automation software of choice (Home Assistant, HomeSeer, Smart Things, Wink, etc...)

Depending on what was used for floor heating, you may not be able to do much with this besides wire something for on/off.

Depends what kind of hub you have. If you don't have z-wave, you're options are pretty limited. Easiest and safest IMO would be a zwave baseboard thermostat. Something like this, depending on size of heaters, etc: https://www.amazon.com/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Electric-Heater-Thermostats/dp/B01BYL1OAS

​

Currently, the two most popular are the Nest and the Ecobee. Both are super capable units that offer a lot of flexibility to the homeowner.
If that is what you need, then you can't go wrong with either one.

As /u/rajan3001 has pointed out, the Tado has a lot to offer you. Take a look at their website:

https://www.tado.com/no/products/smart-thermostat-starter-kit

For me, I went with the Honeywell:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honeywell-RTH9580WF1005-Wi-Fi-Smart-Touchscreen-Thermostat-Silver-Works-w-Iris/273133374103?epid=809536521&hash=item3f98048a97:g:ON8AAOSwDtVavP6I

It was either that or the Lyric:

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RCHT8610WF2006-Programmable-Touchscreen-Thermostat/dp/B01LTHM8LG

Just installed this one last month. I have loved it. The app for wireless control is simple and works well. The geofencing feature is also nice.

Honeywell RCHT8610WF2006 Lyric T5 Wi-Fi Smart 7 Day Programmable Touchscreen Thermostat with Geofencing, Works with Apple Home kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LTHM8LG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Fd2gzb84XEG51

Why don't you just get a temp sensor like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071NG8MZK/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D7N1FY57KHJXBAQT3YZ6&dpPl=1&dpID=61GWZEHUmML

Then you could plug it in near the equipment (assuming you have a surge strip in there) and then run the fans off that with a couple set points.

I've put these. in my class. I've also put these in my class. And if you want to go all out, get this.

In my class, I only have 1/2 of the lights on and it helps. A kid mentioned it being too bright so I took another light bulb out. Put lower watt bulbs in. Also, go to Home Depot and they have displays of different brightness of light bulbs. They have some soft white light bulbs that may help. But go to their display and check out the different light bulbs. The softer light may help.

What about one of these anti-tamper thermostat covers that's keyed?

Link

If your relationship is anything like mine and my wife's, you're the one headed downstairs at night when she's cold and the thermostat needs adjusted. Much easier to adjust on phone (or via GH/Echo)

And you can just do the passive-aggressive thing and install this over it and set the schedule from your phone: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPGP6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PfohAbSQ1GTH8

Had a similar problem in my old office. Solved it with this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPGP6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SBNgDbK1VJMSV

Gave the manager one key, I kept the other as a sign of dominance.

> Everyone was sick last week, so no action. That's fine.

​

Man, you guys seem to get sick quite regularly according to your previous OYS's. Any idea why that is?

​

>Before they left, I made a decision about keeping the A/C at a certain temperature while we'll be gone. She argued and I didn't back down (honestly, after DEERing a couple times). Then Broken Record. She finally said, "I think you're prideful." Me: "I think I'm being assertive." I realized within minutes that her comment was my wife's version of "You're an @$$****." Progress. My response still needs work. I'll do better in the future.

​

Install one of these and just end the argument once and for all. If you're the only one who has a key, then you control the temperature and nobody else can screw with it. I used to have the same problem until I installed that cover, and once the rest of the family realized that's the way it was going to be, it was never brought up again. Easy win.

Might i suggest something like this Honeywell CG511A1000 Medium Inner Shelf to Prevent Tampering Thermostat Guard, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPGP6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DwcGDbM6JA9R4 cheap effective and practical for your issue...

Edit: Might be too small after thinking about it but probably could make something that would fit the switch

you should get one of these. Problem solved.

People who don't wear warmer clothes to keep energy and heating bills reasonable are idiots.

Since he won't listen to you (A great signal for the amount of respect he has for you) there isn't much you can do that isn't petty.

Once you guys start getting petty the relationship has an expiry date.

So here are my shitty suggestions as you are locked in a real catch 22 because he doesn't give two shits about your opinion.

Open all the windows while he has the heat high till it cools down and then you both pay 3x the heating bill till one of you breaks or you go broke.

Buy This

You might consider getting a space heater of some kind. I would recommend something more than just and old coil heater if it's going to be in the house/bedroom, but at least some kind of electric heating system.

I have one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_zjgDybY5CKRJF

That I could send you. I had a similar situation, but ended up never using it for my intended setup.

That way, when it gets too cold the outlet thermostat would kick on and turn on your small heater near the wineador.

Might do the trick.

I hooked one of these up to an in wall AC unit in a townhome I rented and when I moved out 3 years later the AC unit was still fine despite the thousands of abrupt power cuts. I say do it. Even if it makes the compressor go out after 5 years instead of 10, you’ll have enjoyed those 5 years of your life in more comfort, and you can then buy an AC unit with smarts built in to replace it. https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Automatic-Programmable-Thermostat-Compatible/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=thermostat+plug&qid=1564867841&s=gateway&sr=8-3

edit: I also have used smart switches and those work fine as well, but I found that AC units can be too much for some smart switches. My Wemo Insight handled every AC unit I tried fine, but my Eve smart plug would just shut off when my more powerful unit would turn on full blast.

You can get really cheap temperature control. I bought this thing http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1323897861&sr=8-6

Build an insulated enclosure or get a big cooler or something that fits the fermenter. Drop the temperature controller in connected to an extension cord, program it for the temp you want and plug a small lamp into it that also fits in the enclosure. If it is well insulated, a single bulb should do the trick. I've heard that a strand of christmas tree lights will work, too.

Frankly, my enclosure is a cardboard box covered in old sweatshirts. I assume that the fermenting wort is a little warmer than the air inside the box so I set the temp controller to turn the light on at a slightly cooler temp than I want the wort.

I don't go as extreme, but at night in the winter, I use cheap electric oil radiators with this thermostat in our bedrooms. In AZ, we have an electric heat pump for heating. The small electric heaters are less efficient, but with them I'm not heating the whole house.

Depends on how much you want to spend but a simple and easy route is a electric heater with a fan hooked to a thermostats like this

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Automatic-Programmable-Thermostat-Compatible/dp/B000E7NYY8

Check all the panels to see how well they are sealed and consider heat mates for under the pots to keep the roots from getting to cold. You can also put down normal mats to insulate the cold from the brick floor.

https://www.amazon.com/Seedling-Hydroponic-Waterproof-Germination-Propagation/dp/B073RC58JN/ref=asc_df_B073RC58JN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216531753338&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5024264790334445552&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014966&hvtargid=pla-350506522936&psc=1

You might want to add a small second fan just to make sure you have a good circulation of air moving and don’t get any cold or hot spots.

These things are pretty sweet to go along with whatever you choose

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538584787&sr=8-3&keywords=thermometer+outlet

For heat a space heater on a thermostat outlet when the lights are off and possibly also while on. For cooling while lights are on you can run a fan on a thermostat outlet. I have used this one for these purposes in the past. You definitely want a tent or to create a confined growing space so that the environment is more controllable. If you have a 24 hour temp and humidity monitor, like this, that lets you know what’s going on when you are not looking.

won't that blanket suffice? It says it has a thermostat?

Other than that use a line voltage thermostat and a heating pad? Should not take mush to keep it warm.

This

That is overkill - but would work. You could find a baseboard heat one at a rehab shop for 5 bucks.

There are also reptile heaters.

1970s condo, 1350 sqft, 2 bed 1 bath. $160ish average over the winter, $90 in the summer (A/Cs). I'm a ground floor unit so I'm naturally colder, the insulation isn't great and I have a lot of windows that get a lot of wind.

In the winter I plastic over all the small windows and over large windows (like a sliding glass door) I hang a cheap shower curtain (clear) to kill drafts. I open the curtains on sunny days and close them when it starts getting dark or when I get home from work (4pm). I replaced all my land lords thermostats in rooms that I keep them on constantly in with programmable thermostats that I'll take with me when I leave. For my largest room it has two 1100W baseboard heaters, they cost a fortune to run. I have a ceiling fan and a radiant oil space heater that's plugged into this thin g, http://www.amazon.ca/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8 , it saved me $100/month on average last winter. Rooms that I don't use constantly (bathroom) I keep the doors closed too. I don't need them super warm and they won't drop below 15-16 degrees. I turn the heat down to 15c in my bedroom at night and in the office/guest room as well. We use an electric throw blanket that we got at Target for $10 to heat up the bed while we read before sleep and then we turn it off. We add a polar fleece blanket over our duvet in the winter.

We could save more but she works from home quite often (twice a week on average) in the winter so that raises the bill and we have an electric fire place we use if we need to quickly heat the living/dining area up that also raises the bill. Having pets and keep them warm doesn't help either.

I ended up getting this. I found the same info you did, and almost did that, but the safety thing was HUGE for my wife. She was freaking out. And with a Lux outlet thermostat plus the UL rating of that heat mat, the safety factor is pretty high without adding dual thermostats and driving the cost way up. I'll post a pic eventually.

Yeah, that's probably worth looking into for my tropicals at least. It's certainly cheap enough to experiment with.

This seems like a roughly equivalent product, as does this.

I'd just need to get a heater that comes on automatically when it's powered up, which is an easy enough thing to do. The more I think about it, the more I want to try it out.

I'd still like to build the monitoring solution, but something like this should be much more precise and reliable than what I'm currently doing.

I still think if I want to keep my temperate trees at 0C+/-3 I'd probably need something more customized.

Perhaps you need to buy one of these things? http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

I bought one of these when I lived in NYC. The local energy company even gave a rebate to people buying their officially sponsored device.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat

It will turn the outlet on and off. My AC would keep its status across power loss, so that when the outlet turned on, the unit would start cooling. You say your unit doesn't do that, so you have a few options:

1. Combine this solution with something that pushes the button on the unit.
   
2. Crack open the electronics within your AC and modify it to maintain status across power loss.
   
3. Buy a new AC and install it in the window above this one.
   
   If it were me, I'd choose option 3. Window units can be very inexpensive, especially if you buy on Craigslist from someone leaving town.

Thought this looked good too https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E7NYY8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497923280&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=programmable+thermostat+outlet&dpPl=1&dpID=313Eh1W4f3L&ref=plSrch

You can get a thermally controlled outlet like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E7NYY8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_201_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1G823WK9FBQSAKW27YJV

There are cheaper ones but I'm on mobile now

Cooler (like for camping) for insulation--that forms the box.

Thermostat from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some short electrical cable, with plug, light fixture, and a 15w light bulb for heat source.

Attach the plug to the short electrical cable, and attach the cable to the light fixture, and screw in the lightbulb.

​

Use a flat extension cord to run power from the wall to the thermostat. Plug your lightbulb into the front of the thermostat, set the thermostat where you want it, put the whole thing into the cooler, and shut the top. If your basement is 62 like mine, it'll take about an hour or two to reach 76 degrees and keeps it there within one degree. Not elegant, but it works damn well!

I've got one of these, which might work for your fan control. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8

Thanks for this. In their FAQ, they say that the hardware already has everything for HomeKit compatibility, but they're just working on the software, which will get pushed out as an update in Q1 2017.

I was hoping for something more in the $40 price range. Just a simple thermometer with IFTTT or HomeKit support. But at least now I know there are options out there for $180. The next closest I found was Mother which is $300. For that price, I might as well get a better a/c unit with a built-in thermostat.

I also discovered this outlet thermostat for only $37. It doesn't connect to HomeKit or IFTTT but it does do exactly what I was wanting. The only problem is that the placement of my outlet is not the ideal place for a temperature probe, because it's buried under my bed where there's not much air flow. If only this had an extension for the temperature probe, so I could place it on the other side of the room, it could work great.

When properly rated.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NI.0Ab19D1PMR

With electric baseboard heat it is very common to have the thermostat switching line voltage.

Thanks. A electrician friend checked it out and looks like 240v pulling about 13 amps. Wired up with 2 wires currently, but he recommended this control and to adjust the way it's wired right now. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483460790&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+line+voltage+thermostat

This is what you want:
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538780090&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=line+thermostat+programmable&dpPl=1&dpID=413zl3TCkhL&ref=plSrch

I don't know about keeping it on all the time but I have baseboard heat in my home and I have Honeywell digital thermostats that have five levels of heat output indicated by little flames on the display. It turns on the lowest setting to maintain the set temperature. Two of mine are programmable and one is not but they all have the ability to vary the heat output.

Here is the programmable version:

Honeywell TL8230A1003 Line Volt Thermostat 240/208 VAC 7 Day Programmble https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wDahybYYAGRMQ

Here is the standard non programmable one:

Aube by Honeywell TH108PLUS/U Electric Heating Non-Programmable Thermostat with Backlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z7EBCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9FahybAMEW2TE

Would something like this work? The other one seems really expensive for such limited functionality.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016J2CYQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=28ZG1R5QKY6G4486AE4A&dpPl=1&dpID=413zl3TCkhL

Haven't taken the old ones down yet, just spoke with the condo manager...

$1000 buys a lot of hardware these days, so throwing that large of a number around is a bit silly. In fact, here is something similar that already is for sale for $215 and it is even fancier than I described above (smartphone interface, reporting stats, etc.).

And I agree that home networking protocols are probably simpler (and then could be connected via a dongle or some other peripheral to a PC). Another simple way to make this work could be to just have a MicroSD card approach: plug it into a card reader and run a program to create the schedule and then plug the card into the wall unit. There are many ways to accomplish the goal of easier programming while still keeping simple and low power hardware. But there is a real need for someone to figure this out: old people really suck at using programmable thermostats. Any time there is a severe user interface problem like that, there is an opening for a good solution.

You were right about one thing: the cheapest programmable thermostats on Amazon run for about $20, so there is an order of magnitude difference here. Although there are plenty of mid-level models that run for $60-70 and the high end ones (e.g. this Honeywell unit with a nice LCD interface) run for $130.

Finally, I'm betting that we will see this technology deployed anyways (and granted, it will probably suck at first, like all new things do) for the purposes of peak load management. I'm personally a pro-nuke cornucopian myself, but I still see the long term advantages of setting up a smart grid to reduce strain on the grid during the summer. The way to get consumers on board is to offer discounts for programming your load to run when the grid server says that system load is lower.

I took down a couple of the battery-powered Honeywell touchscreen models to install "smart" radio-controlled Z-Wave honeywells.

My old ones look like this model: https://smile.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH8500D-Touchscreen-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B0026ES9UQ

As long as you don't configure the thermostat to keep the backlight on, you should get 6+ months from the 3 AAA alkaline batteries it uses when not connected to a "C" wire.

I've been using this with smartthings for about 4 years and it's been pretty reliable. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH8500D-Touchscreen-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B0026ES9UQ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3QYBFQ6A2V0AK

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH8500D-Touchscreen-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B0026ES9UQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3

I don't know how much you want to do. I have never played with anything by Nest. I just wanted something that does well, and this model hasn't changed at all that I can tell since I bought one a few years ago. (meaning: tried and true like BIFL should be.)

It's wonderful. Only thing I wish it had was separate air circulate only programming/intervals; I think it runs circulation 1/3 of the time set to circ -- which helps a ton in a narrow two story townhouse. My bills dropped noticeably -- esp in the summer.

I went to my amazon account and checked and I actually have this one, which is $99 and that's what I paid. They are very similar, but the one OP posted has some other features like lockout and holiday (it's a commercial unit, mine is residential/consumer grade).

One of these?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Habistat-Stat-Thermostat-100W-White/dp/B002SQAP1S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467220020&sr=8-1&keywords=Habistat

These are UK links (don't know where you are):

Dehumidifier bag: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/2pk-Small-Space-Dehumidifier-sachets/dp/B00A3U9KQW/

Thermostat: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Habistat-Stat-Thermostat-100W-White/dp/B002SQAP1S/

The thermostat you need depends on your heat mat size but that one is 100w which should be plenty.

Make sure the heatmat is stuck down. Electrical tape is good as it's safe both for heat and for your gecko.

Habistat Mat Stat Thermostat + Whatever heater you want.

Keeps them nice and happy. I have a heat-mat for my hedgehog (was the only thing the petstore had) and I keep it 1/3 under his house and 2/3 outside. It keeps the air nice and warm for him, and gives him a warm and cool spot to pick in his house. He hasn't once tried hibernating since I got it.

I am interested in getting a better ceramic heater emitter, so if anyone has any good recommendations I'm interested as well.

I have hydronic baseboards fed by an oil fired boiler. I use this thermostate: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH6450D1009-E1-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B003VIWQL4/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1539974065&sr=1-13&keywords=honeywell+thermostat

​

Though, hydronic systems actually have two thermostats, and I think that might be where you are confused. There is a thermostat at the boiler itself that controls the temp of the water in the boiler. Then there is the thermostat in the home that senses the ambient temp and calls for heat when the temp drops below a designated temp. You want to replace the second, the first one is likely doing just what you need it to do right now.

Thanks! Do you know of this 5-1-1 would work or would this 7 day be the least expensive model?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VIWQL4/ref=psdcmw_2054378011_t3_B00Y6M2OUC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y6M2OUC/ref=psdcmw_2054378011_t3_B00FLZEQH2

Like you, I am trying to avoid cloud-based services at all cost. I want my house to continue to function even if the internet connection goes down for some reason.

I've also got central Heat/AC with a Gas furnace and I just picked up Honeywell's Zwave Thermostat. Its quite nice although does have some quirks when integrated with Home-Assistant. I don't know how it compares with other zwave thermostats but I'm happy with it. Scheduling can be done through home-assistant or at the thermostat directly. Currently, I'm using the built in scheduling on the thermostat but it seems like a schedule through home-assistant is the way to go due to one of the aforementioned quirks.

I haven't set up any remote sensors temperature, but it should be fairly straightforward to have Home-Assistant control the thermostat based on the temperature of individual rooms or on an average among all sensors.

I also found NMap presence detection to be spotty. Recently I configured Owntracks with private MQTT and haven't looked back. Its light-years ahead of the NMap detection.

I personally am not concerned with the multi-sensors as I am not very interested in temperature. I do use motion sensors heavily to trigger events in Home-Assistant. If you wanted both, i'd go with the multi-sensors.

I think the Honeywell Z-Wave thermostat would work. The thermostat is locked by default I think.

Also, since the thermostat has a temperature sensor in it, you can either program the Vera to switch it off if the Nest is on, or just allow it to come on if the temperature is too low like a normal thermostat.

the model I use for my steam system (which supports a multitude of common wiring types) is the Honeywell YTH8320ZW1007/U.

Available here for $135

Thanks for the help guys!

Ecobee support got back to me. They let me know that the support rep that assisted me was wrong to tell me to do the connections that way. They found my call and let me know that they will be talking to that rep for future calls and training.

Basically the new rep let me know that all Honeywell thermostats have a "Wire Saver Module" (Looks like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Honeywell-THP9045A1023-WireSaver-Prestige-Thermostats/dp/B0060ASWPE).

He gave me the proper instructions to hook up the PEK and I am in business!

As mentioned from the above comments, the Green cable was moved to the G port.

I now have Cooling as an option! Woo!

Thanks all!

If you can, stop and go open the panel on your hvac system (Attic/garage/Basement/crawlspace)

There you will find where those wires connect. take a picture, note it down.

There is a good chance that you could simply connect the C wire. There

Or use a c-wire bypass
https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC

or

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-THP9045A1023-Wiresaver-Wiring-Thermostat/dp/B0060ASWPE/

Thank you very much for the helpful comment. Do you know what the three wires represent in the picture I have posted?

I think this thermostat is the one I saw at Home Depot that I would be interested in getting:
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH2300B1012-E1-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B007BHLUWM/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483412099&sr=1-7&keywords=honeywell+thermostat+programmable

Do you know if that will work with my three wire setup? I mean if I order it on amazon prime I can always return it for free if it doesn't work out.

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH2300B1012-5-2-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B007BHLUWM/ and the install is really easy!

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH2300B1012-5-2-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B007BHLUWM/ref=zg_bs_2054378011_1

You just need a simple one. If you're on one of the old mercury switches or a crappy coil, it will make a big difference. Since you only have heat, you literally just hook up two wires. Very easy.

If the temp is actually 68, you need to put on a damn sweater because that's plenty warm. You can also put that server where you need extra heat if the noise is manageable.

We have Electric Baseboard heat and it works very well with a good digital thermostat like this one, you can find it on eBay for cheaper:

​

​

Honeywell RLV4305A1000/E 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat for Electric Baseboard Heaters

​

​

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RLV4305A1000-Programmable-Thermostat-Baseboard/dp/B008DF626K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537890358&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+rlv430&dpID=41FGJhIQGWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

This one here?

Honeywell RLV4305A1000/E1 Rlv4305A1000/E 5-2 Day Programmable Thermostat, 240 V, 1 Deg F, Whites https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DF626K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QXGTDb46Z62V1

The thermostat in question is this guy:

http://amzn.com/B008DF626K

I'm not sure what a C wire is, but I'm going to guess no since it only has 2 wires for line voltage. The thermostat I'm trying to replace is similar to this:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Hha1OhAlsSA/hqdefault.jpg

It's just one of those dumb knobs, but 4 wires.

Check Ecobee. I chose this model. I saved money and love it.

Programmable light switches are super handly for when you're out of town and want to make it look like you're home, and if you're forgetful about turning off lights.

Keypad deadbolt never worry about getting locked out. If someone is house sitting you can give them the code and then change it when you get home.

Energy saving outlets are great for things like charging cell phones or computers and keeping your power bill lower.

Wifi thermostat. I think Nest is overrated and expensive for what it is.

Electric crockpot-pressure cooker-rice cooker-yogurt maker. This thing does it all, seriously. Pressure cookers are awesome for getting things cooked quickly so you can buy cheaper groceries (dried beans vs. canned). Slow cookers are great for tough pieces of meat, roasts, soups... They're also great in summer as they don't heat up the whole kitchen. It being multi-purpose is a bonus for kitchen space.

I assume since you are looking at Nest that you are wanting a newer kind of "Smart" Thermostat. Here is the one that I want to install once I move into my house, Amazon Link. I believe that they may even carry them at Home Depot? It handles 110v.

I have something similar on my list. It's #3 behind the parts for a new xen server, and the OBD2 Bluetooth dongle.

I like this one better.

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH9580WF-Touchscreen-Thermostat-Premier/dp/B00FLZEQH2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453931522&sr=1-1&keywords=honeywell+wifi+thermostat

Fuck Ecobee. Get two of these and you're done:

https://www.amazon.com/Radio-Thermostat-Programmable-Enabled-Controls/dp/B00KQS35XA/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1484946346&sr=8-20&keywords=wifi+thermostat

It's not just long-term support I'm concerned about. When a product is required to "phone home" to vendor-controlled servers to perform its functionality, you've lost all control over your privacy (they now have a continuous stream of data on their servers about your home), not to mention the product's reliability and longevity.

 

I've gotten a response from a vendor that their thermostat does not require Internet access and that there are mobile apps that would allow one to control it over one's home WiFi network. It's not as pretty as the big vendor's products, but it does fit the bill.

I have a similar one: http://www.amazon.com/Radio-Thermostat-CT50-7-Day-Programmable/dp/B00KQS35XA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420922423&sr=8-1&keywords=radio+thermostat

It's awesome, note you need a power wire.

I just do the $100 wifi thermostat.

It has the phone apps, webapps, etc that the Nest has at half the cost. You can manage it from your browser too. It runs without Wifi like you want. It's also very simple to use and schedule.

A decent thermostat is ~$25, this one is $100. I think you'll be fine spending $75 more.

Don't know about most popular, but I've had a couple of CT50s in my house for the last few years and could not be happier. Cheap, great web interface, and gets the job done. I paid $150 total for the two of 'em. Not as pretty as the Nest, but not $250 (x2) either!

When I get a larger setup with multiple animals I will go with one of the high end systems...at this juncture, its a little overkill.
Perhaps https://smile.amazon.com/WILLHI-WH1436A-110V-Temperature-Controller/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483826875&sr=8-6&keywords=plug+thermostat

One of these, one of these, and one of these. Don't have any pictures, but its a pretty simple set up. You set the temp you want it at, set the window to .1 or .2 degrees. Don't plug the heater into the controller's outlet unless its underwater, otherwise you blow the fuse. Probably a good idea to start with hot tap water and add some boiling water from the kettle. The heater will keep the water up to temp, no problem, but it can take a while to raise the temp from room temp. I always make sure nothing is going to touch the heater in the water. I'm not sure, but it could probably melt a bag. I have a length of high-themp CPVC pipe that I put over the pot or cambro, and use binder clips to suspend the heater and sensor.

FWIW, I purchased this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Willhi-Wh1436-110v-Temperature-Controller/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1467920542&sr=1-2&keywords=willhi+temperature+controller

I understand the struggle; moved from the mid Atlantic (cool basement country) to north Florida and had to do this too.

I ended up with a real cheap deal on a fridge so that’s what I use, but they’re ill suited to holding heavy objects. A 5gal will break most fridge shelves, though you could probably rig something up with a little wood or something.
I agree a chest freezer or kegerator is a better option. My fridge works fine for 2-3 gal batches tho.

As for if it fits: most full size fridges fit my 5gal bucket fermenter just fine. I recommend taking measurements and bringing measuring tape with you when you look for a fridge or chest.

You’re also gonna need a temp controller unless the fridge/freezer can be adjusted up to the 60’s; most beers won’t ferment at 40F :). I use this one and it’s worked so far:

https://www.amazon.com/WILLHI-WH1436A-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=fridge+temperature+controller&qid=1563644314&s=gateway&sprefix=fridge+tem&sr=8-9

So I could plug my humidifier into this

Then plug a portable AC unit into this

And I should be good to go. Thank you for the suggestion!

With enough insulation you should be fine, assuming heat won't ever be a problem. Alternatively you can grab one of these and a heater:
https://www.amazon.com/WILLHI-WH1436A-Heating-Temperature-Controller/dp/B00V4TJR00/

You could do scrambled eggs and reasonably thin frittata. Poaching eggs should be pretty easy if you've got a kettle as well.

If you buy this temperature controller unit (shop around though, you should be able to get a better price if you look) then you can turn your rice cooker into a sous vide cooker, all you need is ziplock bags.

I use a crock pot plugged into one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/WILLHI-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Improved/dp/B00V4TJR00

Probably not as good as a professional sous vide, but much cheaper and it works great for me. There is no agitator, but I find it works pretty well without it if I fill it full of water and am not cramming the crockpot full of bags of meat. I think the natural thermal currents do a good enough job of keeping the temperature even throughout. Plus you can agitate every so often manually.

This is very nicely done. I just wanted to mention though for anyone who might think this is beyond their ability, I've had good results with an analog crockpot and the following controller that the crockpot plugs into. It's a smaller chamber and there is no active circulation, but it gets the job done for some pretty awesome steaks. Still if able though, I would make one like this guys.

Sorry, I don't know how to link other than the full URL on mobile. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_udiJwb9S6EN5W

I think you are on the right track. I use this with a cheap submersible aquarium pump and a turkey roaster and it works perfectly. The idea should be the same.

Here you go: Willhi Wh1436

Oops, definitely more expensive than I remember.

1. Here’s the temp-controller outlet: WILLHI WH1436A Temperature Controller 110V Digital Thermostat Switch Sous Vide Controller NTC 10K Sensor Improved Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tDw2DbE7FAZKY
   
   Here’s the Heater (definitely recommend!): AmazonBasics 500-Watt Ceramic Small Space Personal Mini Heater - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MX8VN5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LEw2DbP4KC16G
   
   
2. I’m heating everything in a small closet. It’s been running for an hour, consistently holding temperature so far with little heater use! This could be a great setup.
   
   I think this could be incredible for a grow-tent.
   
   I already had the heater as a small-room heater, which was why I thought it was only $30 🤦🏽‍♂️

We have an aquarium fan hooked up to a thermostat and it works wonderfully at keeping the Temps in whatever range I specify. We have it at 61-64°.

LONDAFISH Aquarium Chillers Aquarium Fan Fish Tank Cooling Fan Marine 2 Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCJGZ4H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TljSCb3ETB7D6

WILLHI WH1436A Temperature... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I am using this thermostatic controller which is working well for me on my wineador. I have it come on at 69F and off at 65F.

Hi there. Stumbled on your post while looking for sous-vide recipes... Anyway, I do think some people would want a slow cooker with a variable temperature setting. That being said, this turns it into a more complicated machine as you add a very big variable.

I think part of the appeal of a slow cooker is its simplicity, and adding the temperature variable would make the product more complicated and expensive for a function that only a few would actually use.

Also, just adjusting the temp accordingly as you suggest could cause a lot of recipes to have a piece of meat in there for a really long time. In sous-vide cooking it works because it is in a plastic bag and all the meat juices stay in there. If you do not use the plastic bag, the juices will just get dissolved into the cooking liquid and you would end up with a very sad piece of meat (or sauce).

I just bought this little device: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4TJR00/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1T3LOAKNUUM9N to allow me to use the slow cooker the way you want. I think in the future once people really figure out sous-vide, you will see slow cookers with that function though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4TJR00/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is $27.50.. any concerns for this as this is what I'm using?

Would this be one

You can control the temp with an external regulator like this one

I had my tupperdore in the fridge for a few months. I had to buy a thermometer with a relay to regulate the temperature inside. Mind you it was a mini fridge. I wasn't using the main refrigerator where I store the Beer/food. You need to store the cigars in the tupperdore with your humidification device in the tupperdore as well. The fridge alone is for temperature control, not humidity.

I never had any issues with my cigars. I know have a wineador to store my sticks in.

I have a 250 watt heater on a thermostat switch. I spent a lot of time picking these out and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VXEJ6PC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4TJR00/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this Honeywell thermostat. It's a bit more expensive than the cheap Z-Wave ones, but it has a proper cloud service and I've been happy with it. I bought it when I had central AC and heating, but my house now only has hot water baseboard heat and no central AC. It works great for the heat.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH6580WF-Wi-Fi-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B00Y6M2OUC

That actually has too few buttons dedicated function buttons would be prefered this is pretty much exactly what I wan't but it doesn't have the circulating fan option.

Cheapest isn't usually a good option in the long run. In this case it more than likely will be hard to set up/connect, keep a connection, not have options that you'd probably want, good chance it won't operate as flawlessly as one you'd spend a bit more for and tech support may be non-existent. Cheap parts, cheaply put together...more trouble than it's worth. Honeywell is old as dirt. They're reliable. Tech support is 50/50. They make a dependable thermostat. I could have bought any wifi thermostat I wanted and chose the Honeywell TH9320WF because it did everything I wanted (and I could make the screen any color ;) ). It was $156 at the time on Amazon. Honeywell makes less spendy ones tho. It will have the Honeywell dependability but just the basics. $82/Amazon.
4 star rating
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Programmable-Thermostat-RTH6580WF-Requires/dp/B00Y6M2OUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522456176&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+wifi+thermostats+for+home

Oh god this is giving me PTSD from the house I bought last year.

It had one of those Honeywell programmable thermostats and I was shivering at 2am poking at it with a flashlight trying to figure it out. Programming it was a pain in the ass. Changing the temp? I was never sure if I was reprogramming it or temp changing the setting. I ripped it out day 2 and put in a Nest. That's super clear.

In the basement I put in a round mechanical thermostat to keep the pipes from freezing in winter and that's it. No frills. Just a spring.

If I were you, unless you want a smart one, I'd get one of the old round ones and call it a day. If you want a smart one, get the cheap Nest.

I purchased this Honeywell wifi thermostat recently. I couldn't justify the price of the Nest. The Honeywell was less than $90, and it does the job.

Although it may not look as cool as some of the others, I can recommend the Lux smart thermostat. It actually gets its power from 2 AA batteries, as opposed to having to hardwire the thermostat to your electric system.

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Products-GEO-WH-Wi-Fi-Thermostat/dp/B010PTKWW6

Where did you get the lux wifi thermostat for $100? I only see it for $125-150 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Products-GEO-WH-Wi-Fi-Thermostat/dp/B010PTKWW6

I got one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010PTKWW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can install it with a c-wire but if you don't have one you can put in batteries instead. I don't have a c-wire either and it's worked fine for several months.

Being line voltage, that limits your choices. No Nest or Ecobee for you, unfortunately.

The StelPro may work for you, though:

https://www.amazon.com/STZW402WB-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

https://www.amazon.ca/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Electronic-Thermostats-Smart/dp/B01BYL1OAS/

I use these z-wave thermostat's for my electric baseboards...I quite like them as they are easy to set up and configure. I use a pi running HA and a z-stick.

Now if I can only figure out how to get the "outside temperature" feature to work with a virtual temperature sensor....

https://www.amazon.com/STZW402WB-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS

This is for line voltage thermostats. Not sure if yours fits that bill

I'm looking to do this too, and it looks like the Stelpro KI STZW402WB+ is the way to go as /u/jryanishere mentioned.

It's worth noting, that hooking a Nest up via a relay is NOT supported. Nest have taken down their community forum that had a good guide on how to do it. There are others on the web, but I'd steer clear.

i have electric baseboard and use a stelpro KI z-wave thermostat for control.

you'd need a z-wave hub to bridge the two systems (i use smartthings), and with this unit alexa doesn't have native thermostat control -- i had to install the alexa helper apps for smartthings.

right now i have an 'off' temperature setpoint and an 'on' temperature setpoint, so i just have to say 'Alexa, turn the heat on' or 'Alexa turn the heat off' to switch setpoints respectively. i can also say 'Alexa turn the heat up' and it bumps the setpoint by 5 or 10 degrees (i forget which, and i'm not home to check). asking alexa to turn the heat down just turns it off (with my setup anyway).

Maybe this Stelpro KI STZW402WB+ Thermostat for Electric Baseboards and Convectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYL1OAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XBr6AbR8BCPXT

I won't deny the Lyric series looks nice.

What's your current home automation setup?

Here's a few options:

https://www.amazon.com/Lyric-Wi-Fi-Thermostat-HomeKit-Amazon/dp/B01LTHM8LG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1481113923&sr=1-2&keywords=honeywell+lyric

so you use a light switch with a little knob for fan speed?

get something smarter

​

turns itself on/off at a certain time

​

they're $25 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Nashone-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-thermostat/dp/B071NG8MZK/

Nashone Wireless Temperature Controller,Electric Thermostat with Remote Control Built in Temp Sensor 3 Prong Plug LCD Display Heating Cooling Mode

​

BTW - swamp coolers are little more than fans and a pump for the water.

they don't use juice like AC.

​

hang a wet sheet or towel and point a desk fan at it, you'll get some cooling.

Here's a wireless thermostat that you could use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NG8MZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oao0BbYD8ZPD7

Or remote wireless hemostat.. Does heating or cooling. I'm using one to control a window AC. Or an Inkbird type with the probe inside the garage. There are a bunch of models and probably clones.

Okay thank you. Ill look into the cobalt easy therm. Also is this what youre referring to for a temperature controller? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NG8MZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1JgbBbW9TV7R8

I think that would require rewiring all the way back to the breaker. This image from the Amazon page shows they specifically only support two pole https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media/sc/21b1e26f-1350-464a-882e-3e01d9532d30.__CR0,0,220,220_PT0_SX220_V1___.png .

https://www.amazon.com/Mysa-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboard-Heaters/dp/B075VBP42M


This one looks to be single pole...

https://casa.energy/products/caleo-sx/?wcmlc=USD

This sonoff TH16 might be a start.

And here is a smart thermostat for baseboard heaters.

As far as managing & graphing the operation, Homeassistant is free and pretty simple to use.

After much research, the only one I found which I could be certain would work with both baseboard heaters and a Smart system like Alexa is the Mysa Smart Thermostat. It's a pretty simple interface, and a bit pricey especially when needing one for each room, but they're well reviewed and the vendor is responsive. I ended up prioritizing where I really needed a smart thermostat vs where I just needed a new thermostat, so my 2 Mysa thermostats are out for delivery today.

The one thing I can't tell is if they need a hub of some sort for the Alexa integration, but since I have an Echo Plus and am adding SmartThings I'll be covered for that. If you only have an Echo Dot and a hub is required, you'll need to add something like SmartThings or Wink.

This what I used. It now works with SmartThings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075VBP42M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not necessarily. I have 3 sensors through my house, but the common factor is the system itself. In the summer, the upstairs is too hot, in the winter the upstairs is still too cold.

The sensors do help balance it out, but the limitation is that the system is routed poorly and the upstairs has bad circulation.

In this case, my husband and I get a window AC during the summer, and a space heater during the winter.

If your landlord is concerned about fire, get a ceramic heater that does not actually have any live wires. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Lasko-5790-Oscillating-Ceramic-Control/dp/B008UO7I1W/

I also connect it to a thermostat like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

My husband is notorious for leaving a room without remembering to turn off the space heater, so it's nice to have both a temperature sensor that prevents it from getting too hot or too cold and also timer so that it's not running when I know we aren't going to be in our bedroom anyway.

You can use the thermostat to set your schedule, just as you would with the ecobee or another "smart" thermostat. Plug your AC or heater into it, make sure to turn the device up to HIGH so it doesn't inadvertently shut off with the integrated thermostat before the plug turns it off. And you will have your own climate control :)

I use this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

It's not very smart, but it's smart enough... basically you can set up 4 time/temperature combinations for weekdays and separate 4 time/temperature combinations for weekends.

I was actually trying to install a bunch of these which claim to support both: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DF626K/. In general, thermostats for baseboard heaters seem terrible. But regardless, I didn't actually attempt to wire it up, I merely put back the existing thermostat after seeing it only had 2 wires to connect. It seems these thermostats support both single and double pole by making you combine wires.

this one is great. allows for schedules and quick changes for weather shifts. You can also deal with it from your phone so if it is too
hot or cold you can change it on your way home. https://www.amazon.com/Radio-Thermostat-Programmable-Enabled-Controls/dp/B00KQS35XA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525636538&sr=8-1&keywords=radio+thermostat+ct50

Switch from central heat to space heaters using temperature controllers like this one:

http://smile.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1348938107&sr=8-3&keywords=120+thermometer