(Part 2) Best horse supplies according to redditors

I'm a dog fanatic, so here is a list of awesome dog supplies for under $25, for those interested!
-[vet wrap] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UELUXNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9y2-yb13E3QJH) for any time you need to help your dog with his/her boo boo.
-[large chuck it ball] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084DRJKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9z2-ybMRKYDYG) that my puppy is addicted to.
-[topical spray] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025YKUIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mE2-ybRANQ1AN) to help with your doggos minor cuts.
-[slip lead] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJU7FE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9F2-ybWB9FW9J) for quick trips outside.
-[Kong Zoom Groom] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR1A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DJ2-ybD5EXKZH) for brushing out those thick double coated pooches without tearing the coat or scratching the skin.
-[treat pouch] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCWAWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LL2-yb1WKAR0N) for those fun training sessions!
-[large pet waterer] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057LAGNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TN2-ybCVJN55F) so you don't have to keep filling up a bowl.
-[Kong Wobbler] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ALMW0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zP2-ybPN8N34J) for those really fast eaters.
-[Herm Sprenger Prong Collar] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0F8702/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4R2-yb0ZM4BGR), an excellent training tool for beginner and higher level dogs when used properly.
-[Red Barn dog food roll] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008DFOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wU2-yb83KED07), great training treats, and you can cut them up into any size you want to.
Let me know if you want more!

Got you covered:

1. a) The widest part of your foot should correspond with the widest section of the boot. Most of the creasing should happen in between the laces/tongue and the cap. My Brannock is 8D, I wear an 8D in the Katahdin. b) The break in will NOT be fun, but two weeks tops; 'lean' forward when you lace them up, and lace all the way up (I skip the middle set of speedhooks and then double-back). c) The leather won't stretch very much: if it's snug during first wear, you're good to go; if it hurts in any way, size up or go wide; if there's heel slippage, size down.
   
   
2. NO WATERPROOFING. Well, you can. But Lexol or Bickmore care products (cleaner, conditioner, repellent) are plenty for your boots. Heavy duty waterproofing products will make your boots look ugly/blobby. The tongue is gusseted, helps to keep out water/dirt.
   
   
3. It'll happen on it's own.
   
   
4. Depends. I walk around a lot (concrete, asphalt, linoleum, etc.), I haven't had problems with the insole. Do you have issues with flat-footedness, high arches, etc.? Remember that an insert will require you to size up. The outsole/heel will wear down, especially if you pronate/supinate. It helps to have a second pair of footwear to rotate with (and let boots 'rest'), so consider a second footwear purchase in the coming year or so (I picked up a pair of AE's Higgins Mills about 10 months after I bought the Katahdin).
   
   
5. I use Woodlore Epics after every wear, brush only if I kicked a lot of things on a given day. A cloth rag is good for wiping away dirt (especially that rainwater + city dirt mix).
   
   The Katahdin leather has an interesting depth to it. Lemme know if you have more questions.
   
   Edit: more details/clarity.

I looked up those number and they are not pretty. She for real just needs to install a salt lick.
https://www.amazon.com/SALT-GEMS-Himalayan-Animal-Lick/dp/B07GY3JJRC/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=salt+lick&qid=1567030306&s=gateway&sr=8-10

C’est en vente depuis longtemps sur Amazon

I'm not the one who brought Trump up either. But I did support the idea that non-opposing participation in that sub can and should be used as a tool for how seriously to take someone.

I know and love a number of Trump supporters. And while I might value their friendship and non-political opinions, you better believe I take their political views with one of these.

It's a hoof gauge that farriers use.

https://www.amazon.com/Anvil-Brass-Horse-Hoof-Gauge/dp/B015HSRM6Y

It isn't very good for spiders. Terrestrial spiders don't climb a ton, but when they do and then fall, they take a HARD fall and have pretty good potential to rupture their abdomen on this substrate. I use this for all my tarantulas it's great. It hold moisture really well, is great for burrowers, and is nice and soft for your spider.

I would also have to agree that this spider is in heavy premolt. In the next week or so expect your spider to flip on to it's back and shed it's skin. I wouldn't try to handle it or anything else until this happens at it is the most stressful time in your T's life and very hazardous for it's health.

When I get a new spider I wait a week or sometimes more to feed them to let them get acclimated to their new home. I would suggest this for you as well.

Did you catch it wild or buy it in a pet shop? Did they have it labeled? If it's wild caught then we will need a location (state, city) to closer pinpoint what type of tarantula it is. It is an Aphonopelma of some sort, just not sure which one.

EDIT: This is an ideal setup for your tarantula right now. Notice the high substrate level and smaller enclosure. I would also say the tank is big for a 2" spider, but keep it around cause it will be able to use it as an adult

Get some blu-kote

One of the volunteer's mom made it for us. It was basically a cone of white felt w something hard in it to keep it up stuffed tightly and it had a spiral of silver sequins sewn on the side + two strings to tie it to the halter with. I found one on amazon though: Unicorn Horn for Horses: White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HTOOUQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_g1fJBbSZ6GKYG . There are a couple patterns on YouTube for diy too!

I had a tweak playing racketball on a rainy day and it took nearly a year to get to 90% recovered. I did some rest, but eventually had to start playing again and avoiding the hits that I knew caused re-igniting the issue (backhand on the stretch).

What I did was I used "vet tape" with a wristband on top. It helped me a lot. I love it and I use it virtually every time I play.

I bought it as "athletic tape", but when I saw the brand ("Horse Supply" or something like that) and researched, I realized this is more commonly sold as "vet" tape. It's basically non-sticky soft tape that kind of "engages" with itself. It's used in animals as a bandage, because it does not pull their hair when it needs to be taken out.

This is the tape I got. If you dry it, you can reuse it a few times even though after the third time it does not stick well to itself, however, the wristband keeps it in place.

Also, do wrist warm ups!

Bactrim is fine for pigs, and is typically successful in treating URIs. Side effects are quite rare as it is a milder antibiotic, but it's possible that it could cause digestive upset. If you wanted to be on the safe side, you can give your pigs some probiotics an hour or two after their Bactrim dose. Probiotics aren't likely necessary but it won't hurt them if you want to do it anyway for your peace of mind. Even more rare side effects (but also more serious) are loss of appetite, severe diarrhea, and lethargy. Contact your vet if you notice those.

Because Bactrim is gentler it's a good 'first' option to treat infections, especially for young guinea pigs. There is a chance that it may not be effective if the infection is sufficiently advanced or simply antibiotic-resistant. If your pigs aren't starting to improve after 3 days, or if they ever worsen after beginning treatment, call your vet as they'll likely need a different antibiotic (usually Baytril, but not always).

Probiotic info:

Safe probiotics to feed guinea pigs are fresh poops from a healthy guinea pig if you can get it (this is believed to be the most effective, plus it's free ;D), or if not you can sprinkle some powder from an acidophilus capsule on their pellets, or a probiotic meant for small animals like BeneBac (comes in gel or powdered form, and is usually carried by pet stores and vets) or Probios powder. Pigs don't do well with dairy, so avoid yogurt or other dairy products.

Amazon links (if you live in the US): Benebac gel tubes and Probios powder (a big tub like this is overkill for your situation, but it is another option)

I'm certain there are plenty other probiotic options that will also work fine, these are just the ones I've used and know of off the top of my head. It's also a good thing to consider keeping on hand just in case.

Guinealynx page on probiotics

I'm allergic to adhesives too! Medical tape and bandaids give me that awful rash. Its really been trial and error with me, trying out different products to see what works. I've used bandannas, or cut the toes off a sock to make a little mini "sleeve" to hold gauze on the cuts. I've also discovered from my tattoo artist a self sticking wrap that doesn't use adhesive vet rap its usually used for animals, but it works!

You need to get her off the sand... it might make her happier and improve her appetite, although Rose Hair's are notorious for going on hunger strikes. I'd put her on one of these two:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQDYA/

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Earth-Brick-Pack/dp/B001F998AS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1372339917&sr=8-2&keywords=zoomed+eco+earth

edit: removed a bad suggestion. The two good suggestions remain. Carry on.

The turpentine is for making the oil easier to spread and mix with the tar. I find it easiest to mix the turpentine and oil first, then add the tar. I have no idea where you would get tar in, I'm assuming the US? Here you can pretty much buy it in any paint store. Maybe something like this could work?. Don't know if it's the exact same, but it does say "100% light pine tar". No idea what the "light" means. If you somehow come across coal tar, stay the hell away. Unlike wood tar, coal tar is highly cancerogenic.

Turpentine is also great for thinning linseed oil paint. If you ever choose to try it, it's rewarding but time-consuming and a little tricky. But once you get the hang of it you'll have a nice smooth finish with a hard, lacquer-like surface and sheen. I would say compared to lacquer, it scratches easier but is not as sensitive to dents. The common advice is to go thinner-to-thicker, i.e turpentine/oil ratio 1:1, then 1:3 and the last coat pure oil paint.

Turpentine is made from pine trees and unlike mineral spirits/thinner it is biodegradable. Keep the stuff away from kids though, because it smells delicious. Like a mix between gasoline, forest, and soda pop.

It's a little-known fact even among the Swedes, but Sweden has a very rich culture of wood preservation techniques.

My dogs seem to get stinky when they eat foods with too much protein, so I've actually been feeding them high quality foods that only are about 26% protein (both my dogs are pretty inactive).

One of my dogs was getting a lot of seemingly spontaneous diarrhea, and so the vet had us try probios (a probiotic powder). He gets a scoop of it in his food in the morning, he's been on it for about 2 months now, and no diarrhea! We adopted him about 8 months ago and his stools never were really firm, and sometimes we could hear his tummy/intestines gurgling. We tried different foods, different tests at the vet, no luck until this. I was extremely skeptical but it really does seem to be helping, and it's cheap so why not. You can get the probiotic powder really cheap on amazon (it's almost twice as expensive from the vet here), I'll post the link below, but I do want to warn that the probiotic may increase your dog's appetite, so you may have to feed more than you have been. My dog got really grumpy shortly after starting it and we realized he was just much hungrier than usual. This is probably because my dog wasn't eating as much since he wasn't feeling well before, but it's something to keep in mind.

Good luck, I hope your pup feels better soon!

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001BM1QRC/ref=twister_B002HNOSYC

Most feed stores should have something. Conveniently, there are several in Ramona, if you happen to pass through there on the way to the desert.

Alternatively, NAPA auto parts usually sells a galvanized oil change pan.

Either way, probably $8 or less

Amazon link, for reference: MILLER CO Galvanized Pan, 13 quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJX8C8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Qxd0Ab0YJJYGG

Edit: forgot to address the zinc issue. The talk about zinc gassing is in relation to welding galvanized metals. The melting point of steel (~1300°C) and the vapor point of zinc (~950°C) are fairly close. Both of these are much higher than the temperature that wood burns at (~300-500°C)

Petego Comfort Wagon Bicycle Pet Trailer, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4VM684/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VfZVCbVPR0FRS

I don't have much, but what I do have are very necessary! Especially the water fountain, as they both seem to really like running water. They drink straight from the taps!

Anyway, here's the items on my list:

1. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0757ML8Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lLGzCb7QS633R.
   2.
   https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07GWXV6BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VLGzCb505QGN4.
   3. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073TYS3XT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iMGzCb8VAGWSR.
   4. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07K1C9DMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EMGzCbGYAYTMS.
   
   Bonus: here's my 2 little devils, Tigger (left) and Talia (right).
   https://imgur.com/a/vizq2Dp
   

I was actually just talking with a coworker about these today! I have a few dogs and they always seem to do a good job for removing hair. Curious what others have to say as well. I think these are the ones I have:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GL9777N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_R.QMBbGGKMEQ3

https://www.amazon.com/LITTLE-GIANT-Miller-Galvanized-Quart/dp/B000FJX8C8

You could scale this idea up using a bigger galvanized pan.

Thanks.

Do you have any recommendation for a leather spray? I'm thinking of just using this leather/suede duo spray from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bickmore-Gard-More-Water-Repellent-Neutral/dp/B000HHLM9E/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=leather+shoe+spray&qid=1574817195&sr=8-4

Saddle Soap

This has saved my Celine dune purse countless times from jean transfer.

If her coat is like a lab's (I'm assuming) then you could follow our brush out procedure: comb thoroughly with a good metal comb, then curry comb, and finish up with a furminator-style tool. The metal comb will pull out any hunks of undercoat, the curry combs pulls out loose top coat, and the furminator will pull out much of the remaining undercoat. If you do it right, shedding will be much reduced for at least a couple of weeks.

Just be sure not to overdo it with the curry and furminator. You can absolutely cause bald patches if you go too crazy with them.

You don't need to bath them in advance, and high velocity driers are not worth the expense for regular dog owners IMO.

These are the tools we use:

• greyhound comb
  
• curry comb
  
• "furminator"
  
  Don't buy a name brand Furminator--the knockoffs are basically identical and way cheaper. And while the comb is a bit expensive, it is by far and away the best I've ever used in 20 years of grooming.

Has anyone used Bicks Saddlesoap or Bicks LP before?

the LP is cheaper than Obenaufs on amazon since a 4oz is like $18 but the 8oz of Bicks LP is $15

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746PCV6Q

https://www.amazon.com/Bickmore-Saddle-Soap-Plus-Lanolin/dp/B016DQQYVI

Try Vet Wrap. It's a self-adhesive cloth tape. It won't stick to your skin or hair or anything. A few times around works great for bondage. It's also rather nice as a blindfold (wrap it around your face a few times).
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Vetrap-Bandaging-Tape-PRICE/dp/B000RI3ZVG