Best household cleaning metal polishes according to redditors
We found 195 Reddit comments discussing the best household cleaning metal polishes. We ranked the 57 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 195 Reddit comments discussing the best household cleaning metal polishes. We ranked the 57 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
that can be fixed 👍
I used Wright’s Silver Cream
Assuming that is solid metal and one color all the way through, I would try something made for polishing metal. Looks like brass but I can't tell for sure from that photo.
https://www.amazon.com/Brasso-76523-Multi-Purpose-Metal-Polish/dp/B00BILDIU4
If you want to try something you already have sitting around the house this article has some suggestions:
https://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/maintenance-and-repair/cleaning/how-to-clean-brass
Overview
Time to finally do my car during the weekend of July 30th. This car had not been detailed since July 2014 and has had a lot more miles added on it. Sunday, 7/16/17, this car turned 5 years old and is now at 53k miles.
This car is garage kept at home for most of the time. Parked in an open parking lot during work hours. Sometimes street parked. It experiences full Chicago winters though and all elements. Sees all driving modes from stop-and-go traffic to 130mph+ highway cruises and local streets.
The goal was to get everything I wanted done on a Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Friday it decided to rain several times during the wash, but that was all good. I still kept washing in the rain and used the rain as some of my rinses. I had to get out of dodge by 4pm Sunday so I could avoid the country bugs on my drive back home to the city.
I left the following on the table to get done before winter comes:
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Work Done
The goal was to get it done so now I don't have to worry about it again for another 2-3 years. I wanted to get the paint corrected to an acceptable level and then put a good amount of protection on it to survive at least 2 winters and 2 summers.
As the title states, I tried to accomplish a lot here.
Services described here
The entire detail is outlined in the album, but I will share the gist of it here so I can link products.
The exterior was properly washed with our 20-stage decontamination and wash process. Here is the fire hose nozzle I use tied up with a quick shut-off valve. TRIX was awesome as always. It turned a good amount of purple all over and made the claybarring step go smoothly. The entire car was 1-step corrected with the PC and a Blue Wool Pad/orange 4" foam pad/hand orange pad and Menzerna Heavy Cut Compound 400 (formerly FG400).
The car was around a 85% for paint quality. I'd say this 1-step easily got it to ~93%. It removed the majority of glaringly obvious defects and it would only take a detailer's mindset now to see that final 7% of defects.
The exterior was completely wiped clean with CarPro Eraser. The car was then coated entirely with CarPro CQuartz (2 layers) and then topped with CarPro Reload.
The interior was vacuumed and then was completely cleaned with McKee's 37 Total Interior Cleaner. This product is my go-to for interiors. It works flawlessly and it has a great smell that does linger and just smells naturally clean. I use these types of interior clothes for working with that product. This brush was also utilized to help really get around the leather pores and locations like air vents and the steering wheel.
All interior hard surfaces were treated with Lexol Premium Protectant. Glass was all cleaned with glass MF towels and Stoner's Invisibile Glass.
I cleaned the engine. Finally. The engine was completely cleaned using Chemical Guy's All Clean+ and just general microfiber clothes from a place like AutoZone. The engine was then dressed with Adam's In & Out Spray to enhance the appearance of all plastic/rubber parts.
Door jambs were cleaned up with an MF and P21S Total Auto Wash.
Paint chips were fixed up with the Dr. Colorchip kit. Felt good to finally clean that rust chip on the hood and fix the trunk damage up some more.
The honeycomb grills were cleaned up with a foam application, MF towel, and Klasse All-in-One. Topped with Adam's In&Out Spray.
The exhaust tips were cleaned up using 0000 Steel Wool and Blue Magic Metal Polish and Adam's Metal Polish #1. I used a metal polishing microfiber towel to aid in this process.
The trim was cleaned with the CG All Clean+ and then dressed with Chemical Guys Natural Matte Shine Dressing.
The tires were dressed with AMMO MUD and the wheel wells shined up with Adam's Undercarriage Spray. Wheels were cleaned up with a very soft microfiber and P21S Wheel Cleaner.
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Response
I loved it. It feels so good to drive it again like this. Just want to touch up a few more things and I'll be fully satisfied. I absolutely am so much happier now that my engine is clean again.
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Reflection and Lessons Learned
Not much here outside of just taking care of the car more. I neglected that engine bay for too long but thankfully it was mostly dust. The exhaust tips should have been taken care of more. At least every spring/fall. I will continue to take care of them now 2x a year so they can maintain where they are at and not get worse.
Preventative maintenance very much applies to detailing as much as it applies to anything mechanical.
---
Total Time: 17 hours on exterior, 3 hours on interior
Total Cost: Obviously free for me, but to give an idea of what I would have charged for this...it would have been $1,933.98. The 2 layers of coating and Reload would have been $900 alone. The rest of my prices you can see on my site.
www.chicagosdad.com
www.facebook.com/chicagosdad
Former Chicago's DAD /r/AutoDetailing Detail Write-Ups
I used Renaissance wax. I also sanded the band up to 4000 grit to a matte finish. click
Whatever you decide to do...make sure you brasso the shit out of it when your done to make it shine like new.
Get this stuff. It's FANTASTIC!! Best results are when you get a good amount of rags tho. Apply some of that scrub, clean rag, clean off. Repeat until it's to your liking.
Here's how mine came out, not a drastic difference because I don't let it build too much, but it works wonders!
If it's metal of some sort, you can produce a mirror finish by following these steps.
Notes:
Links:
looks really nice!
for the fridge:
https://www.amazon.com/Weiman-Stainless-Steel-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B007BOEI88
Probably the best product to coat your barrel with to prevent rust is Renaissance Wax. This is what museums use to protect metal, and other, objects in their collections.
I had good luck with Meguiar's plastic polish. I did it by hand but if you've got a rotary or orbital tool you can save yourself a lot of arm strain. This reminds me I've got a before and after shot here.
Not OP, but I use this for polishing.
Brasso
Your method is good, and that polish is fine. I use BlueMagic metal polish (http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I) and love it but the Mothers stuff will work fine too.
I spent the past week cleaning all of my NES, SNES, Super Famicom and Famicom cartridges. Taking the cartridges apart just makes it easier to get leverage while polishing the pins, and it just helps with wiping down the PCB and the inside of the cartridge shells.
I mostly followed this guide I found on Ars Technica.
I happened to have a can of Brasso metal polish laying around so I used that instead of the polish the article recommends. I also picked up a pack of Target brand magic erasers to use to clean the outer part of the cartridge shells.
In my experience, polishing the pins does more than just wiping the pins down with isopropyl alcohol. It's also a judgement call. If the pins look pretty clean then you probably don't need to polish them. Here's a before pic of a NES cartridge. And here's what it looks like after I polished the pins. This is was one my cleaner games before polishing. I wish I took before and after pics of one of my dirtier games.
Brasso or never dull for polishing. Those are metals that need attention to look great. Like Zooshooter said you may want to try sealing it after a good polish.
https://www.amazon.com/Brasso-Duraglit-Metal-Polish-Wadding/dp/B004G8YNIM/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1466001891&sr=8-3&keywords=brasso
That's a lovely piece, and an inventive way to decorate some pretty labradorite.
I use Renaissance Wax polish (Amazon) to finish all my oxidised work. It was was developed by The British Museum for protection of fine art and will not stain or discolour with aging. It is acid neutral, water and alcohol resistant. You may wish to re-apply this coating in time due to wear / usage.
MAAS, it's milder than Flitz and can be used on gold finishes as well as nickle.
Most oil is corrosive to iron-based metals. Use either WD-40 (good) or Renaissance Wax (better)
I can see at least one contact that looks like it has some gunk on it.
99% of problems with old carts is the contacts.
Upgrade from alcohol to Brasso, which you can get at any Wal Mart for like $3.
https://www.amazon.com/RECKITT-BENCKISER-76523-Brasso-Polish/dp/B00BILDIU4/ref=pd_lpo_121_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XSK1DDXG29WY11BMN6AG
It smells horrible but it really gets the job done.
Source: Restored a yard sale NES and several games recently.
Edit: Brasso Link
Something like Brasso might work?
What date is on the inside of the handles? It's usually something like 0895 for August 1995, or 0900 for September 2000 etc.
Never used it, but maybe this?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002VAZ34
Atrium Anniversary! 🥳
In honor of today’s Drop of the Abacus I decided to polish up my Copper Atrium and carry it today at work. I can’t believe it’s been two years since the original Atriums dropped. Preorders started 10/22/17.
After receiving it I ordered tritium vials in Green and Purple and added them with UV resin. Have been real happy with how they turned out and a delightful display in the night.
I have been letting my Copper pieces patina. But about once a year I have been repolishing them with Blue Magic and then recently started applying Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. I have been super impressed with this wax and how long Copper and Brass/Bronze items remain shiny. Some are free from patina even when they come back around in my rotation a month later.
Blue Magic 400 7 Ounce 7OZ MTL Polish Cream
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5h2PDbNMVKHCA
Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish (65 ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PosSl7D59dCRQ
specifically autosol https://www.amazon.com/Autosol-Metal-Polish-Chrome-Copper/dp/B003PHLTOG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=autosol&qid=1574489575&s=automotive&sr=1-2
​
not sponsored no affiliation. experience has taught me this works well for your problem.
If you ever end up with some infuriating scratches on your epoxy countertop you can polish it out.
https://www.novuspolish.com/ -or- https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34/
I do a lot of work with plastic, especially epoxy. And both of those product lines are great choices.
Step one: soak in ketchup or lemon juice for several hours, use a toothbrush to get in between those fins until you get it as clean as you can, it will still look tarnished.
Step two: BRASSO THAT BITCH
Use a soft cloth or rag, and let the brasso melt all that corrosion off onto the rag. After you get it as clean as you can, soak in isopropyl alcohol to remove any fine layer of brasso left over and rinse in a bowl of distilled water.
Step three: resolve to not use aluminum in your loop from now on.
They're probably referring to how you posted the link.
Much cleaner if you have the link text in square brackets, followed directly by the link URL itself, in parentheses.
[link text](Url here)E.g Metal polish
Nevrdull and a very fine steel wool worked well for me.
BKF is awesome for steel, but I use it for the sink only, not my appliance facades. For that, I use http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007BOEI88?pc_redir=1406628222&robot_redir=1
metal polish for brass
[Wright's Silver Cream] (https://www.amazon.com/Wrights-thomaswi-Silver-Cream-Polish/dp/B000WHXQWK)
Q-tip or toothbrush and 91% isopropyl alcohol. If the cartridge isn't being recognized, I polish the pins with Brite Boy.
You're very welcome; I'm just a mere nomo who's happy to help.
All of that said in my original post, if I were you I'd try something a little less permanent on the first try. I'd also want something that would have no chance of flaking off and making a big mess of my mod (lacquer will eventually fail). After polishing and a solvent cleanse, I'd probably apply a wax. It's not a forever solution, but it should reduce how often you'll have to polish and it's pretty easy to remove/polish/reapply.
Renaissance Wax is a museum quality product renowned protecting antiques/collector items and it works great on all metals and more. Amazon carries 65ml and 200ml containers at a fairly reasonable price.
That's probably where I'd go first, but my experience with applying coatings is very limited...I spec them all the time, but never have to actually use them. :) I hope your experiment goes well!
I use Blue Magic 400 and #0000 Steel Wool. Does a great job making those tips look new. It's also very cheap! Apply the steel wool with light to moderate pressure. Wipe it down with a microfiber towel that you don't care about being stained and you're all set.
http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I
"Renaissance Wax" - https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO
used by museums worldwide.
otherwise, plain simple 3-in-1 oil and a soft cloth.
Aluminum Cleaners are popular in automotive and marine aisle, Blue Magic works nicely
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-Ounce-Polish/dp/B000BO8Z9I
This will help with the oxidization. I like to use it with a wool buffing head on my drill. Saves elbow grease. I can get a nice finish this way.
if you want a more highly polished finish, get some wet dry metal sandpaper above 800. I use it in steps from 800 to 2300 to get a mirror finish on vintage pots and pans.
[presently working on a book on restoring vintage kitchenware]
I just wipe it down with some Ballistol or oil after cleaning. Lots of people recommend this stuff for polishing blued guns: https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-Polish-200-ml/dp/B0012S1XBO
Try Brasso - http://www.amazon.com/Reckitt-10116-Brasso-Metal-Polish/dp/B00BILDIU4.
The coin is already ruined, like you said, but this stuff will at least make it pretty.
This stuff is pretty good: http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=sr_1_2/185-1115514-7925907?ie=UTF8&qid=1397488317&sr=8-2&keywords=renaissance+wax+polish
Apparently the new formula for Brasso sucks, so try this... http://www.amazon.com/Brasso-Duraglit-Metal-Polish-Wadding/dp/B004G8YNIM/ref=pd_sbs_hg_5/189-6507895-0626905?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VSS956MK064AVNWSD6D
A museum would use Renaissance wax., I've spoken to maritime archaeological conservators, they actually do use it. My uncle, a coin dealer who specializes in ancient coins (Roman and earlier) says that Johnson paste floor wax is the same thing as renaisance wax, and much cheaper. It smells quite a bit like car wax, for whatever that is worth.
http://www.amazon.com/Autosol-Edel-Chromglanz-Metal-Polish-Metallpolitur/dp/B003PHLTOG/ this is what makes my GTI exhaust shiny like new
Recently I cleaned up the exhaust headers on my KZ1300 build before installing them.
One before-and-after
The whole set of 6
It took several hours -- probably about 10 total -- and a lot of elbow grease.
I started with Brasso to remove the rust, rubbing it along with a #1 steel wool pad (#3 if it was really nasty). Then I cleaned that off and repeated as necessary.
Once I had a good foundation I switched to a milder metal polish (here), rubbing that on with a Scotts towel and letting it sit. I then gave it some elbow grease with a #00 pad until it turned black, wiped it off, applied more, and rubbed it with a #0000 pad and then wiped that off.
The results were quite good, but it definitely took a bit of time. I spent a lot of time listening to Hardcore History while working at my bench!
Nevr-dull and/or a cape cod cloth.
http://www.amazon.com/George-Basch-Never-Dull-Wadding-Polish/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409715034&sr=8-1&keywords=nevr+dull
used this in the Navy on our brass
Shit is like magic.
https://smile.amazon.com/Brasso-Multipurpose-Metal-Polish-8-oz/dp/B00BILDIU4
This stuff did wonders for the old iPod backs.
I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mohawk-Home-M103-0500-Brass-Lacquer/dp/B003BG53EI
for other stuff around the house, but did not use it on the CG. (By the time I realized I was getting patches, it was too late!) I ultimately used Flitz to polish off the remnants of the antiqued coating, and went back to a shiny brass look.
I noticed the exhaust tips could use some polish. I highly recommend this [metal polish](Blue Magic 400 7Oz Mtl Polish Cream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1AZ5AbHD4C68K). Great job overall!!!
Twinkle Silver Polish
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwHU0iRtJa0
https://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-525005-Silver-Polish-Kit/dp/B000QRARKU
I do polish any new straights I get with Renaissance Wax like /u/uhgly mentions but I do this before honing but I am not convinced it does anything useful. If you try polishing an already honed razor then it might affect the edge and require at least a touch-up before shaving. I also wipe down my straights with a clean cloth and a drop of Rem Oil before storage. It leaves no visible oil coating but does create an iridescent sheen but that comes off with a quick wipe. For long term storage I like to keep individual straights in 8x2-inch plastic bags.
Scrubbing Bubbles & hot water worked in with an old toothbrush followed by some Maas metal polish. This combo has never failed me.
This shit is magic: http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414037817&sr=8-2&keywords=metal+polish
Blue Magic Metal Polish
or
motorcycle shops carry chrome polish wadding-its long strips of cloth with the polish in it. It's for spoked wheels, you wrap it around the tube and pull back and forth on it. I used it on a bike I bought with rusty wheels and it worked great.
Decided to not be lazy, here's the link:
Luster Lace
If it's the shiny surface of the brass that she doesn't care for, you could always age the brass... So long as it's solid brass, this should provide a nice patina.
Brass Aging Solution
Some brass hardware is coated, so it may need to be sanded or treated before using this solution.
The grips are Ivory and can be worth a huge amount. You should get the two 1862's (not quite sure that's what they are, would need better view of them) lettered from colt. They could be worth potentially 10,000 or more each, especially if that's factory engraving.
DO NOT CLEAN THEM. You do not know what you're doing, you will fuck them up. Your best bet would be to find a professional restorer or gunsmith (not just some jackass that can change a shotgun barrel either) and have them clean them properly. More antique guns are ruined by "I'll just scrub this rust off" and "how could this possibly harm the finish, it's made for guns" than by anything else. If you must do anything, a careful brushing with a firm bristled toothbrush (and nothing else. No copper brushes, steel brushes, steel wool, brass brushes or cleaners on the toothbrush) to remove dust and dirt followed by the use of a product like renaissance wax to impede further degradation is what I would recommend. The ivory needs to be treated especially carefully, as it gets older, it gets very fragile.
I would suggest contacting someone like Turnbull or another well recommended restorer as soon as possible.
http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO
http://www.turnbullmfg.com/
This stuff on amazon.
some tricks i know for cleaning up rust are: Fold a small piece of aluminum foil up and flatten it as smooth as possible. (a rolling pin or pen help) then dip it in water and rub over the rust lightly, keeping it wet. Next a little bit of 0000 steel wool. then finish with a good polish like blue magic or wizards metal polish.
You should be able to find either it, or an equivalent like Flitz I think. If not, its on amazon. You want to make sure you get the cream variety like this
I been using this cheapie and stop wearing my ring while cooking/dishes. My ring now stays oil slick free for about 3-5 months.
Edit weird: the link is not show up in mobile link. Wright's Silver Cleaner and Polish Cream - 8 Ounce - Ammonia Free - Gently Clean and Remove Tarnish Without Scratching https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000S8JKLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MKvQCb88CDC2V
http://www.amazon.com/Nevr-Dull-Metal-Polish-Bci/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375128714&sr=8-1&keywords=NEVR-DULL + some steel wool yep.
I am not sure how the side view mirror is actually mounted on this model but I can give a general idea.
On the inside of the door there is a plastic triangle trim right on the opposite side of where the mirror is and usually it pops off by pulling on it. This will give you access to some screws that hold the whole assembly to the door.
From there you will have to work your magic to figure out how to get it secured nice and tight as I don't know how bad it is.
The bumper is usually held in with screws or some clips or slid into something. Once again I don't know exactly how it is on this model, hopefully some one can tell you how to fix it correctly for this model. But for now you can go and inspect around to maybe figure out how it should be mounted.
The side trim on your TDI should be held on with tabs build into the side trim, inserted into the holes on the door and locked in some way. Either the tabs have broken off so one way would use some double sided tape made for side moldings/body work.
For the headlights I use Blue Magic Polishing Cream that a friend left at my previous house years ago. It works well and only removes surface oxidation. If it's there deep this polish won't be enough and very fine grit sandpaper is what you will need to use. I have to warn that this polish has ammonia in it so work in a well ventilated area. You will need to follow up with a sealant or it will turn yellow again in a month or two.
I went thru a few tutorials, howto's and forums about forcing patinas and worked out how I can do it. I Googled "brass forced patina" and "brass salt ammonia patina" and "ammonia forced patina" etc... I just consumed a few articles til I got an idea of roughly what to do, then jumped in. Pretty sure there are YouTube videos, but they won't give you much more.
A big thing is how long you keep them in the corrosive environment. I couldn't check on the pen til about 6 hours later so it was lucky that it turned into a fairly good result. Maybe 10 or 12 hours would be prettier.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
You basically seal off anything you don't want altered, like interiors and threads. Cover with salt, or coarse salt, or even kitty litter. The parts that are salted are the parts that will corrode less. And the parts around the salted area will corrode. Those are the little black outlines in the pen.
Suspend the pieces so they don't touch anything, in a sealed environment (don't fuck with ammonia vapor [or lacquer vapor])
Careful of contact between pieces or with saturated paper, of drips accumulating on pieces, and of over-corroding so the pieces get pitted. I don't know how long it would take for that to happen.
Clean the piece well. Mine was a couple days old. If yours has a natural patina already, maybe go over it with high grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool.
I used this lacquer, but by no means is it the only, nor even the best option. But it works. I got some on my fingernail trying to get rid of a drip. It's significantly harder and more durable than nail polish.
Get yourself some Never-Dull. It works really well but keep your expectations realistic. If you have green oxidation on gold hardware it will never become pristine as it was new.
https://www.amazon.com/George-Basch-Never-Dull-Wadding-Polish/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526056262&sr=8-3&keywords=never-dull
I used this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UJ1DD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It did a pretty good job. The previous owner must've never cleaned them because there was still a decent amount of residue. But yeah this stuff and some super fine steel wool would work.
Try this [metal polish] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PHLTOG/ref=s9u_wsim_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B003PHLTOG&pd_rd_r=d024c262-1427-11e8-bd6b-0356965b604e&pd_rd_w=ixH6S&pd_rd_wg=Bqydw&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=860ZGQ6SR0TNNDBRSMF2&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=e6624b56-7cc1-411f-9d12-9cc8feb6c214&pf_rd_i=desktop) OP.... It's what EK has recommended in the past!
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QGZXCS
That stuff works great on metal and headers, though you might want to tread more carefully on painted and finished parts.
I would try kerosene first, personally. Won't wreck anything you didn't intend to get it on, degreases wonderfully, and evaporates cleanly.
I used this product from amazon (honestly i just picked one semi randomly when I couldn't find the same brand I was told to use), It worked just fine. As for the dremel bit, I used the white fuzzy round thing you probably get in every dremel kit you've ever seen.
I agree. For all people to accept encapsulation, the highest priority is visibility. For my slabs, I use clear 3x4 inch plastic bags, so all the handling damage happens to the bag, not the slab. Then, when it's too scratched to satisfy me, I simply replace it. Here's a fairly comprehensive link to all the info you need to get the right bags:
There are ways to polish the slab plastic to get the scratches out. Meguiar's plastic polish is one way. Search around and I'm sure you can find other suggestions for ways to polish the slab plastic. Then, when it's done, put it in a clear bag instead of handling it directly.
Check out ggoodluck2013's (new, ending, sold) listings on ebay. He almost always has something in stock that has the coins embedded in clear Lucite.
I've been using this on my lights and rear window (convertible). It's fantastic!
Get some Brasso and polish it.
https://www.amazon.com/RECKITT-BENCKISER-76523-Brasso-Polish/dp/B00BILDIU4
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brasso
Yep, that's copper. It's reacting to the oils and moisture in your skin. Copper jewelry will do that for a lot of people, too. A lot of people use a product called "Renaissance Wax" to seal copper jewelry, you might want to give it a shot in your mech. People have also used clear Krylon spray, too, or clear nail polish, but that would be a pain to paint on.
http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO
There's also Everbright:
http://www.everbritecoatings.com/index.html?gclid=CLXUhvKupKoCFY9S7AodYFT4Xg
http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO
People use it to finish wood-turned objects, or do-dads of some description, I've seen it on guitars and saw a post about some guy who said he uses it in museums.
Use brasso to clean copper.
https://www.amazon.com/Brasso-Multipurpose-Metal-Polish-8-oz/dp/B00BILDIU4/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1468931714&sr=8-1&keywords=brasso
Reviews are terrible lately(formula change) on Brasso. I went to another site that said it helps repair cd's too though.
Metal polish also works.
>Ok that doesn't sound too bad or expensive, actually sounds kind of fun, maybe I'll make it a hobby, supplement my income or use some to trade my RAD might get in the way of that though.
Danger! This way be dragons. :)
>Where can you get those polishes, I have never seen those particular ones?
I buy them locally at an ACE Hardware, but if you can't find them locally you can get them on Amazon: Flitz and Maas
>Also how did I do value wise, are any of those valuable or anything? Did I spend too much?
Let's see...
I think you took a bit of a bath on the third lot with the Red Tip. The Techmatic doesn't get any love because it's not all that pleasant to shave with and even if it were it's not exactly easy to find replacement cartridges for it. The Valet Auto-Strop is also not going to bring a whole lot. They're not bad shavers, and that gold one at least can take regular SE blades if you pop the spine off of them, but they're basically filler razors that people use to pad out lots. If you get into collecting at all seriously you should basically value them at $0 when you're figuring what you're willing to pay for a lot because you'll end up with a shoebox of them without even trying.
Take that other lot, for example. The way I'd look at that grouping is to immediately discount the Christie and the clippers as just somebody else's junk. That particular Auto-Strop requires special SE blades with a knockout inside the blade, so it's even less desirable than usual. So you're left with the Flare Tip Super Speed, the Ever-Ready 1924-patent "Shovelhead," and the brush. The razors are both good shavers, although the Super Speed is missing at least one end cap -- not an issue from a functional standpoint, but it hurts its value. The brush looks like a decent little travel brush. The old knot is probably shot (though maybe not) but it might be worth reknotting it if the handle were nice enough.
Still, you're only into the lot for $25 shipped, which is fine unless you're looking to flip any of it. Figure about $10 each for the Super Speed (dinged for condition) and the 1924, a couple bucks for the brush, and a couple bucks for postage and you're at fair money.
I'd say the other two Super Speeds are about the same -- decent prices for your own use, not great if you're looking to resell them.
Try using Brasso.
Put a dab of Brasso on a towel, and pressing softly, use a circular motion to polish the contacts on both sides, and then wipe it clean.
This has fixed even my most impossibly stubborn games and now they work first try 90% of the time.
I even made a post about it a while back.
If you're having trouble with a lot of games still you might want to look into replacing the 72 pin connector inside the NES, though this takes a bit more work.
BlueMagic 300 Metal Polish Cream - 3.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UJ1DD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BhKtxb4TPQR5T
Thanks! Since it is a low mileage car, they were pretty easy.
I use something called NEVR-DULL. It works really well but after a little bit of driving it's extremely dirty again.
http://www.amazon.com/George-Basch-Never-Dull-Wadding-Polish/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409091693&sr=8-1&keywords=nevr-dull
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34
MEGUIARS #10 and #17
new bottles, same stuff.
sheila shine
Autosol Meisterrennen!
I use Gundam Marker Erasure to remove , and Renaissance Wax to prevent further color transfers.
If there's discoloration on the body, etc, Weathering Master works wonders.
If you want more info, there's a NSFW Japanese blog post about it.
This is what we use to keep them clean and polished for the most part: https://www.amazon.com/Wrights-Polishing-All-Purpose-Stainless-Porcelain/dp/B000WHXQWK
Yep! There's some kind of UV coat or something on the lens and it oxidizes. It's not dirt, don't bother with windex,
Best way to clean it is to get some of this shit and a q-tip or cotton ball. Takes 15 seconds, your camera will work like new again.
Amazon! Can't believe I didn't think of that. I buy everything on amazon. Head is not on right today.
I bought it from Amazon...here is the link:
https://www.amazon.com/Hardware-Co-Brass-Bronze-Solution/dp/B005TRO276/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549482651&sr=8-1&keywords=brass+ager+solution
Just a note: I found the exact same thing on Amazon UK for practically the same price (when you factor in eBay postage fees) but prime eligible for those of you with Amazon prime accounts like me.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-249765-Multi-Function-Rotary-Tool/dp/B000OODN8S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459115167&sr=8-1&keywords=SILVERLINE+249765
And the autosol metal polish for £3.18 also prime eligible
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Autosol-Edel-Chromglanz-Metal-Polish-Metallpolitur/dp/B003PHLTOG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1459115390&sr=8-6&keywords=Autosol+metal+polish
I bet polishing the scale with Brasso will take the branding right off. I used to use it on legos to remove printing from pieces. Worked great.
I would use the Blitz silicone treated polishing cloth https://www.amazon.com/Blitz-silicone-treated-Polish-Cloth/dp/B002Q0WT9W
It's impregnated with silicone and helps keep your lacquer looking shiny and new. Actually, I use this cloth on my silver trumpet, even though it's not designed for that.
Silver polishing cloths have an abrasive that physically rubs the tarnish off. They leave scratches in your silver plate, and if they scratch silver, they'd definitely scratch lacquer. Plus, silver polishing cloths tend to be thick and hard to use.
In order to keep the silver tarnish-free, I use Twinkle Silver Polish https://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-525005-Silver-Polish-Kit/dp/B000QRARKU when I clean my horn. It has a chemical reaction that makes the tarnish disappear without any abrasive.
And just to keep the silver bright, I put 3M Silver Protector Strips https://www.amazon.com/3M-Silver-Protect-Strip-Protector/dp/B003LDL8SG in my case. I have used a Pacific Silvercloth-based tarnish prevention bag in the past, but haven't found it to be needed as long as I use Twinkle when washing the horn and keep the trumpet in the case with anti-tarnish strips.
Hope that helps those of you who own silver instruments!
If you don't mind buying from Amazon, I bought Graftobian Powdered Metal - Gold which needs to be mixed with a couple of Graftobian Magic Set Mixing Liquid and covered my whole body for MoMs Ball last year. It stayed on great for 4 hours and came off easy in the shower. I did not notice any browning.
Hello fello Canuk!
I use headlight polish bought from walmart to great success. yes - it's for plastic, but it works absolutely perfectly on metal contacts.
i think the bottle cost me 7 bucks. i initially bought it for - you guessed it, headlights! but after a while i decided to try it on my GBC screen (too cheap to buy a replacement) with little luck. also tried it on my cart contacts, holy crap! it's my go-to now. brasso just smells so bad i never want to use it.
https://www.amazon.ca/BRITE-BOY-62015-Metal-Polish/dp/B005CDJT5W
lol over 100 bucks... fuck that.
edit: im sure to clean my carts with windex afterwards... no idea what chemicals are in there but i want to make sure it's cleaned off afterwards.
I know sword, gun, and other antique collectors use Renaissance Wax to protect their metal items, especially for long term storage. It dries quickly, and provides a very hardy rustproof coating.
Try a headlight cleaning kit.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY
OR Meguiars plastic cleaner and polish
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34
http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO
That stuff might work for you
I use this stuff on metals, including occasionally on pens I want to protect:
http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418940793&sr=8-1&keywords=renaissance+wax
My jar is 20 years old, but seems to work fine and looks just like the one @ amazon. I originally got it to keep swords from rusting while unused.
They are called finger pump oil cans. Thanks for making me look that up!
First thing I did was scrub it down with some 000 steel wool and Goo Gone. I've never honestly seen anyone else use this combination but it works amazing on aluminum, steel, plated metals and tons of other stuff.
After I got all of the grim off I wiped it down with some all purpose cleaner.
Next I put a buffing ball on my drill and used some Mothers Aluminum polish. After a few pases with the mothers I cleaned off the ball, and finished out with some Blue Magic 400. The Mothers polish has a small amount of abrasive which helped smooth out what the steel wool did and the Blue Magic 400 has no abrasive and leaves a longer lasting protective coat then the Mothers. I have found you can make just about anything look new with this quick and easy method. Check out how nice it cleaned up the shocks on my bike Album.
This is magic deoxidating polish. Buy it. Its cheap. And will last forever
Renaissance Wax is one of my favorites. You could possibly get Rottenstone and a little mineral oil to rub it out but I don't know how you are expecting it to look as far as sheen. Poly isn't a finish I ever mess with too much once it's on. I will usually spray it and forget it because it doesn't usually respond well to reworking (as you can tell). The wax should even things out for you and if you need to refinish it some day you can clean it with Denatured Alcohol before you sand it.
You should be able to find a vinyl polish at the auto parts stores, follow directions on the bottle and test a corner first like it probably tells you to.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
Something like that.
This
Or this
Both of which are available at your local grocery store or Walmart.
for those of us in the states, what is this stuff?
I found this stuff on amazon, seems similar to the stainless steel anti oxidizing gel you're talking about. Seems mildly acidic? Would be careful to not get this anywhere else other than shiny stainless steel parts. I would be worried it would take off the chrome plating after a few applications on a chrome plated part.
This appears to be the Duraglit product on sale here.
That dark stuff is tarnish formed from the sweat on your hands(among other things). I get it if I don't clean my trumpet for a week or two. You can fix it by bathing your horn and then use some of this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Wrights-thomaswi-Silver-Cream-Polish/dp/B000WHXQWK
Autosol is a godsend for taking off rust spots from chrome or any corrosion from metal. I use q-tips or papertowel to apply and buff it on. It also leaves a protective film.
Use disposable gloves as it's not particularly good for your skin, though.
[Brasso] (https://www.amazon.com/Brasso-Multi-purpose-Metal-Polish-Ounce/dp/B00EOCO93Y/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1479673340&sr=8-1&keywords=brasso#customerReviews) - I used it for four years in NJROTC to polish my belt buckle. It smells like shit and takes a good 30-40 minutes of scrubbing to do the trick, but the result is literally blinding. Just dab a tiny bit on a cotton cloth, fold it around your index/middle finger(s), and rub in small circles.
It'll get rid of surface-level nicks but will not remove medium to deep scratches. Works best on brass and stainless steel.
Maybe Autosol or Autoglym? I'm not sure.
I found MAAS on Amazon.co.uk
Any car wax can work. I've had good luck with this: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34
Just apply it like car wax, let it dry, and wipe clean with a clean soft cloth.
i've had good results with a non-abrasive metal polish like this one
Super simple. Just get a microfiber cloth or old rag or whatever, some non-abrasive metal polish like Flitz or, I like to use this stuff
Apply polish to cloth and just scrub until it is all shiny and sexy. Alternatively, you can use a dremel with a buffing attachment, but I really enjoy polishing by hand.
That's all there is to it, other than taking a toothpick and getting into the grip serrations to scrape out the years of accumilated Isreali soldier finger crud.
Try those with MAAS or a similar product:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I
http://www.amazon.com/Sheila-Shine-Stainless-Cleaner-1EA/dp/B0013MV1BG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372738217&sr=8-1&keywords=sheila+shine
Sheila Shine. I live and work on the Gulf coast in industry and we have A LOT of stainless electrical cabinets in the plant. This stuff works. It'll take some elbow grease to get it in shape, but once you do, just give it a once over every now and then.
You could try polishing with some Autosol
:) Blue Magic Metal Polish, felt polishing wheels and a dremel.
yeah, i was doing some research and that seemed to have the best reviews.
my next additions will be:
Simple Green for the engine bay.
Brasso + 0000 steel wool for the exhaust.
EDIT: actually i heard Brasso isn't very good anymore so I'll have to find another metal polish.
I just got some of this stuff off of Amazon. How am I supposed to go about using it?
Do I try to get my pipes as clean as possible with soap/water, and then use this as a finish? What parts of my bike can I use this on? What parts am I not allowed to use it on?
Do you have any hints or tips about how to use it in the best possible way?
Thanks!
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Link: MaasMetalPolish
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).
Pick up Brasso or a similar contact cleaner at your local grocery store, it takes about 5 minutes to use. Or order it here.
or 20 dollars
Get a little silver polish.
Use as instructed on the package.
link
P.S. This will last for years