Best household poly & varnishes according to redditors

Looks pretty easy. The basic steps are Sand, Seal, Stain, Finish

1. Sand - Get a Random Orbit Sander and some 100 and 220 grit pads for it. Use the 100 grit to sand everything down until it looks like new again, then use the 220 to sand it all nice and smooth. Do a good job here, because poor sanding will show up in the finished product. You don't need the random orbit sander for this and could do it by hand with a sanding block, but the machine will do a better job of sanding and do it in about 1/20 of the time.
   
   
2. Seal - I've used Minwax pre-stain conditioner. There are instructions for how to use it at the link
   
   
3. Stain - Get a nice oil based stain and apply it. I use a foam brush to apply the stain, wait about 30 seconds, then wipe it off with a cotton rag (old t-shirts work great). Wait a couple of days after staining before proceeding to step 4
   
   
4. Finish - This is always the hardest part, because it's the part that will show/bring out any imperfections that were left in the previous steps. You'll need to find a dust free room (floating dust in the air will land on the finish as its drying and become embedded in it). My favorite finish is wipe on poly because it applies easily with a rag (another old t-shirt, cut into strips), and doesn't leave runs or brush marks. I typically wipe on one coat a day, applying each coat on top of the previous one. I'll normally do three or four coats. Some people say you need to sand between coats but from my experience I don't see any difference between sanding and not sanding, except that sanding takes off some of the finish, requiring more coats and also requires cleaning the piece between coats.

I recently bought a bandsaw : Rikon 14" Deluxe so I needed a project that required a bunch of resaw work. What better than a chest of drawers?

Overall this chest of drawers took around 70 hours to complete, mostly because I didn't know what I was doing. I put a few layers of General Finishes Satin Polyurethane on all sides and the top.

I made it completely from scratch, and it was intended to just be a practice piece. I've never made drawers before, and never resawn wood before, so it was a great learning experience.

Comments? Criticisms? Let me know what you think!

Pour some epoxy over the top. It looks great and will totally protect the surface.

http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

I chose not to. I might regret that decision but my logic was the bed won't get handled enough to warrant a poly. Not like a floor, desk, table, cabinet, etc. Mattress and blankets cover most of it. I maybe should have done it just to be safe. Still easy enough to apply if I change my mind. I'm definitely going with a wipe on poly. Minwax makes an awesome one I've used before.

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

• Nippers
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Thinning Medium
  
• Glue
  
• Glue Accelerant
  
• Brush Cleaner
  
• Palette
  
  Sprays
  
  
• Primer
  ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  
• Matte Varnish
  
  Brushes
  
  
• Brushes
  ○ Round 0
  ○ Round 1
  ○ Round 2
  
  
  All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.
  
  This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)

Literally 30 seconds of googling

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/horn/dhorn.html

https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-32-Ounce-Pour--Finish/dp/B000BZYYQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432588567&sr=8-1&keywords=bar+top+epoxy

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

Sure! I looked into it a while back for a project, but I never got around to the project.
Here's a website with direction directions:
http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/horn/dhorn.html
And here's the varnish:
https://smile.amazon.com/General-Finishes-SBQT-Finish-Quart/dp/B001DSXD7A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=salad+bowl+varnish&qid=1562788235&s=gateway&sr=8-3

you will want to use an epoxy finish, wood itself is obviously not water tight, and any typical finish like polyurethane are not permanently water tight. So you basicly need to coat the wood in clear plastic, atleast on the inside.

this would work https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

Exterior, Spar, or marine grade varnishes have UV blockers (usually) in them that normal interior finishes do not.

Epifanes is very popular and performed the best in a test in FWW #205

I understand your wife's aesthetic concerns; a white kitchen really does brighten up a space, and the old wooden decor is extremely outdated and makes you feel like you're in the 80's nowadays. I recently repainted my kitchen cabinets as well: https://imgur.com/a/8zw3SZo

​

I bought General Finishes milk paint. You don't need any other base coat or stripping original paint; just put it right on top the old wood. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JUP1WLM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Topped it off with some topcoat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DSZ3C8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Total paint cost about $160, and the additional paintbrushes/trays $30, so all in less than $200. It took me about 5 full (~8 hour) days; definitely a lot of work, but worth it for the value. Super happy with the end result given how cheap it was.

Nice work! I, too, started painting minis with Gloomhaven.

Don't try and seal them with clear nail polish, like an idiot I know. Get a spray can of Army Painter or something.

I would put a layer of epoxy coating on top of the whole thing. Something like this should be available at a local big box store.

http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

depending on how rough it feels I would suggest starting with an 80g or 100g and then finishing with 120g and 220g. You can skip the first one if it is not super rough. Get one of those sanding sponges with the different angles on them. That will be easier on you hand than just sand paper. Becasue of the shape you'll want something that you can wipe or spray on. Use 4-5 thin coats. The easiest/cheapest option would be a wipe on poly or even better an Aerosol Spar Urethane. EDIT Also, sand lightly in between coats with 220 or higher. This helps the next coat stick.

You might also consider trying to fix a few of those larger cracks by filling them in with a two part epoxy

Good luck! It will be a nice surprise for her when she returns.

You might check out General Finishes Waterbased Poly - Non-affiliated Amazon link.

There are others but this one gets good reviews. The only downside to WB poly is the lack of depth of color in the finished products over oil based. Make some samples before you finish your desktop.

A clear pour over epoxy would be best. The water base varnish would not stand the test of time and you would eventually have the same peeling problem. Epoxy is bulletproof and isn't that hard to use. Something like this would work well.

Nope, although you might get away with it depending on your goals.

Finishing wood for outdoors is really difficult, largely because of the UV exposure. Almost any finish breaks down over time and needs reapplied every so often, but if the finish isn't UV-stabilized specifically for outdoor use, that process takes days or weeks instead of years.

The most protection you can give wood is paint, or a semi-opaque deck stain, which is pretty much the same thing. If you don't want to obscure the grain that much, you need to look at marine varnishes, since they're typically formulated for serious long-term exposure. Epifanes Classic is widely regarded as one of the best options, but any boat supply place will have other options. Follow the directions exactly, no matter how complex the coating schedule. "Spar urethane" from a hardware store, like Minwax Helmsman, is plenty waterproof and can handle a bit of sunlight, but it can't handle long-term daily exposure like the better finishes. Unfortunately, even those better finishes will eventually break down and need recoated.

Another option is to skip the finish entirely. Trees spend quite a lot of time outdoors, and perhaps unsurprisingly some species are quite good at it even once you strip off the bark. Ipe, osage orange, black locust, and teak are some of the best choices, and white oak, western red cedar, and black walnut are pretty decent as well. Those woods, with no finish at all, will survive longer than most wood finishes.

If you happened to make your marker out of a resilient wood, the Danish oil won't help much but also won't hurt. You could stick it outside now and likely be fine for a decade or two. If it's not one of those woods, spend some time putting a high-end marine varnish on. It'll still need touched up occasionally, but that'll give it a shot.

Ultimately, I hope you're not expecting a century of service out of this. Wood is great, but tombstones are usually granite for a reason.

Clean it well. Seal the inside with a food safe sealant. Bee's wax is the most common, but you can get other hardier things like this bar top sealer. bee's wax shouldn't be washed with hot water, or used with hot beverages it'll damage the seal.

I spent about $1300 in walnut (103 BF 8/4", 24 BF 4/4") and $60 on the poplar (31 BF 4/4"). I way overbought on the walnut and probably still have 30-40 board feet left over (only 8/4") since I bought extra to pick out the best sections of each board.


The bolts aren't visible from the outside. Here's another picture of a test joint I did so you can see how the bolts work better https://imgur.com/a/O2lhpwe which I got from Rockler https://www.rockler.com/bed-rail-connection-system.


I've slept on the bed for about 3 months before I put the finish on it (Arm-R-Seal https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKNIDE4/) so I'm not concerned about the dowels breaking. Plus if they do break it's easy enough to take apart and put new dowels in or if I wanted to look into a metal rod instead of dowels.


Yes it's a Leesa mattress and I've been happy with it for the 2 years I've had it.

Army Painter Matte Spray Varnish is what I use.

It's actually great to use on top of Gloss Varnish, since the gloss goes on thicker and does a good job of protecting the mini.

Matte on top of gloss will appear matte.

I used this on this build, it's about three light coats, and a final dusting because I can't help myself..

I use https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-63200-Helmsman-Urethane-Finish/dp/B000Y4II3I/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1473080884&sr=8-6&keywords=spar+varnish whenever I'm concerned about yellowing, say from the sunlight from a window. It's formulated to block UV which is what causes fading and yellowing.

It will not give you the finest furniture lacquer quality finish, but a very nice finish is doable if you take care with multiple coats, sand between coats, use a proper tack rag, maybe thin a tiny bit with mineral spirits to get thinner coats. Finish is tough and you don't have to worry about damage from the misc stuff that gets thrown on tables.

The only drawback is that it is oil based, so you need good ventilation when working with it and it takes a few days to lose the smell completely.

Please post a photo of the finished project in reply to this comment.

Poly will. You can mess around with spar/long oil varnishes, or you can just do it right the first time and stop fucking around

maybe this? http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

Yeah I patched the big voids with mortar. You can see a slight difference in color but it's not bad at all. My sink is ground/polished down to the point that there is a lot of exposed aggregate (and the surface had a shine before the epoxy, I guess from the polished silicon in the sand?), so there's a lot going on anyway.

If you are leaving any voids (which is fine, just make sure they can drain so that water doesn't sit in them), make sure to thoroughly vacuum them so there's no cement dust that could come loose.

I (think I) used this one: http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

Here's a pic of the sink; it looks better in person :) http://imgur.com/a/k1lwZ#9

Yeah, especially to protect the (I'm assuming) non-oil-based, less-durable coats of paint underneath. http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=arts-crafts&qid=1301373510&sr=1-2

Someone has been using this stuff out at renfests for years - Link.

I made mine out of cypress (1 with a cedar inlay and cedar plugs) and treated them with Waterlox Marine Sealer and I think I'll do something different for the next ones. After 9 months and 2-3 coats on everything, I'm already starting to get some silvering. I think on the next set (that isn't painted) I'll try Epifanes Clear Varnish

[this](http://www.Minwax.com/ 63200444 Helmsman Spar Urethane, quart, Gloss https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y4II3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bi11BbAWDC6M3) is the one I got. Make sure it's not the water based one. And then mix it with mineral spirits. Most diys call for a 50/50 mix of both

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/shrouds-ccfl%C2%92s-angel-eyes-painting/41723-headlamp-uv-protector-urethane?p=675308#post675308

Helmsman Spar. It's a wood varnish designed for outdoor/marine use, works great for bar tops and tables because it holds up well against moisture. 3-4 coats is usually enough. I recently built a bar and used this and it looks amazing. No worries if I forget to use a coaster under a sweating glass, it never rings.

Need to lube that pretty lady up.

No stain, because Jupiter is a variation of browns.
helmsman is what I like to use.

Just grab a decent brush when you buy it and brush with the grain

Water based poly wont stand up for long if it's left outside. If you want to refinish it every year it will work. Oil based poly will last a little longer but spar urethane will last longer outside and marine varnish (something like Epifanes Marine Varnish will last for years exposed to the elements. It's not the cheapest option though.

Formbys 30064 Low Gloss Tung Oil Finish, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZZ4ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rp.QBbRZPSRG8

Ah, ok. The problem with those is usually the cheap fit between the wood base and the horn.

A lot of people use Envirotex to seal their horns, that would certainly work in your case: https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-32-Ounce-Pour--Finish/dp/B000BZYYQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432588567

I've done a similar thing:

https://imgur.com/a/lm5Yx

I mixed the glow powder with this resin and dripped it into all the bug-eaten spots in the wood.

https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-32-Ounce-Pour-Finish/dp/B000BZYYQ0

Sounds like you want to use the kind of finish that is used on bar tops and bar tables. There are many different brands, such as this one:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Parks-1-qt-Gloss-Super-Glaze-Finish-and-Preservative-241352/202056337

Or this:

http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

They might last longer than you think, but if you are looking to add some protection, just use something like this

I use :

EPOXY Resin Crystal Clear 1 Gallon Kit. for Super Gloss Coating and TABLETOPS

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPtYDbX2C34AW

I use construction paper. But I have found many problems using card stock. Switched to heavyweight rather than card stock and have had no problems. Thinner the better.

Acacia us beautiful stuff.

I've used this liquid epoxy before for an outdoor sign I made, held up OK but in direct UV, it will need recoating every so often.

do a small test batch on scrap to get process down

For inside, should be fine

https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

https://www.amazon.com/EPOXY-CRYSTAL-Gallon-COATING-TABLETOPS/dp/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480726174&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=countertop+epoxy+east+coast+resins

This is actually before they are coated and I'm not sure I chose the right option here, but I'm currently coating them with a 2 part epoxy resin which I will then sand with some 600 grit to take away the gloss and give it a satin finish.

However, the kind I used is really meant for a horizontal surface, so I'm having trouble getting it to apply to all of the sides in an even fashion.

64oz - https://www.amazon.com/East-Coast-Resin-CRYSTAL-TABLETOPS/dp/B00V2GKMWW/ref=pd_sbs_325_img_0/132-6087927-6515168?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00V2GKMWW&pd_rd_r=825f2a74-4118-4a08-b069-2ee9ab7678d8&pd_rd_w=UWMwm&pd_rd_wg=LQGSp&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=1AV5PV9YPBENV060JQSV&psc=1&refRID=1AV5PV9YPBENV060JQSV

I would use spar varnish with UV blockers, like a marine finish meant for boats, for example this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U?th=1&psc=1

Model shops, they generally have decent Tamiya or Humbrol cans of paint. Acrylic Varnish - Matt 49 is the Humbrol one i use.

Failing that,
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Humbrol-150ml-Spray-Varnish-Acrylic/dp/B001JJYZN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427142604&sr=8-1&keywords=humbrol+acrylic+varnish+49

Also, you'll want to put decals on before you do the matt coat, they like a smooth surface to adhere to.

Seven coats of Semi-Gloss Arm-R-Seal.

Why do you think spar is more effort than poly, and why do you think it will take longer?

I stopped using normal spar urethane since they changed the formula to comply with the new VOC regulations here in the USA - it simply isn't what it used to be.

Lately, I only use Ephiphanes on my outdoor projects. It is really thick, but I thin it a good deal, and use multiple thin coats (just like poly). It is expensive, but worth it.

heres the one i use for castings and orbs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Its quite slow acting so its easy to get bubbles out and is really nice and impact resistant. might want to leave it overnight cause if theres not much of it it will take longer to set cause of the chemical reaction heat. a dixie cup full will set in 30 min, but an 18th of an inch in the same dixie cup might take 6 hours to set.

This kind!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Give me minute to look up the video I saw but it is not that hard and the acid is very dilute. It takes less money than powdercoating and the finish is amazing. Plus it can be used to do multicolor effects. The bar top finish is an epoxy based finish. Ill look for a link brb.

Ok here it is the bartop finish
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PEGLBS?pc_redir=1396668298&robot_redir=1

And here is anodizing.

This guy is monotone but he is very clear.

http://youtu.be/sI-oiBKAyOY

http://youtu.be/m802YwZCj04

Multicolor mask technique

http://youtu.be/8OpewWuDJJE


I already etch boards this is not much more difficult
Plus you can do photoemulsion resist and do really crazy graphics.
I will be doing some of this in the next few months and will post my results.

Fuck buying at lowes, you can get a gallon of epoxy on amazon for 48 bucks + shipping. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NLPCA5Y/

You could try this stuff. It should fill the pores and hold up to normal cutting board activities.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZYYQ0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000PEGLBS&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=02DD0C7Y29K9P9X27FZW

Its even on sale!!!

I haven't used it yet, but I'm about to try This and then some of This on top of some patio furniture. It's used on boats and is highly recommended. I hope it works.

Dowels and chopsticks with sandpaper wrapped around them, and a Dremel with a variety of stones. It's gonna be a labor of love.

Proluxe is good, but it's really just a deck stain. And the semitransparent is a water based acrylic... you're not gonna like the finish it gives you on that beautiful old hardwood. It'll look like plastic. I'd personally go with an Old Masters penetrating stain (you can go with a wiping stain if you wanna tone down the grain a little... wiping stain will give you a little more of the semitransparent look) followed by a spar finish (3 coats, applied with sponge brushes, light sand with 220 between coats - juuuuust kiss it with the sandpaper). It'll give the door a richer and longer lasting finish than a simple coat of deck stain, and the spar is UV protectant.

I'd use Evaporust or Metal Rescue on any of the ironwork that can be removed and allowed to soak (with both products, you strain the soak and pour it back into the jug - it's reusable several times). After the rust removal soak, clean with acetone and use a self-etching primer. For anything you can't remove and soak, use Rust Reformer after wire brushing instead of a simple primer for tough surfaces - it converts surface rust to magnetite to stabilize it. Then proceed with your black color coat. After the black, spray with a couple coats of satin clear. All the paints I linked are available at any auto parts store and Walmart, and I believe Home Depot carries Metal Rescue.

That's a gorgeous door. Take pictures and post a project gallery!

Edit: added that Proluxe semitransparent is water based.

thanks!

for the topcoat alternatives, this one seems to be ok: Humbrol 150ml Spray Varnish No. 49 Acrylic Varnish Matt https://www.amazon.co.uk/Humbrol-150ml-Spray-Varnish-Acrylic/dp/B001JJYZN4

however, out of stock everywhere that will ship it for a good price. i can wait, though :)

I'm not 100% sure but if anyone is wondering...

This is the kind of product they used to cover the sprinkles:

http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

It's not very easy to use though. After applying an even layer, air bubbles will appear and you need to burst them with a torch.

You pour it on

• Rubber Feet 1 1/8".
  
• Cable Tray x2.
  
• None of the steel is painted currently.
  
• Stain - Provincial 211 used 2-3 coats then applied some Wipe-On Poly to protect it. I actually built the top and did the stain 2 years ago and this is how it looks today... it has held up really well.
  
• This desk is only 60" long (5'). Mostly because it was more cost effective for me to purchase 2"x6"x10' boards and have them cut in half in store.

I used this stuff. I think it cured for almost 14 days before I rubbed it.

Environmental Technology 32-Ounce Kit Lite Pour-On, High Gloss Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZYYQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_udmuDb775X4MY

I did. I found that sealing it with three coats of Shellac and finishing it with something like General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Semi-Gloss seemed to work very well

I would stain first, and then use a high quality spar varnish like Epifanes to seal, waterproof, and UV protect the final product.

Is this the kind of oil you'd use? I'm not familiar with this at all but it's big if true!
https://smile.amazon.com/SUNNYSIDE-CORPORATION-87232-1-Quart-Linseed/dp/B000C016PG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524592233&sr=8-2&keywords=boiled+linseed+oil

Hmm it's a huge table top (5ft) so I don't think I can get a nice brush all the way across. Do you think I can use this? Minwax 622224444 Polycrylic Protective Finish, 1 quart, Matte https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NNJQIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7F7HDbSNGSCE8

Thanks!

This sort of thing?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NNJQIS

https://www.amazon.com/EPOXY-RESIN-CRYSTAL-COATING-TABLETOPS/dp/B00V2GKMWW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1495464155&sr=8-7&keywords=2+part+clear+epoxy

you're welcome

Something like this? Table looks amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Finishes-SGQT-Arm-R-Seal-Semi-Gloss/dp/B00IKNIDE4/ref=sr_1_29?srs=3029218011&ie=UTF8&qid=1494281646&sr=8-29

Epoxy is a decent idea, but I'd add a couple of coats of good spar varnish on top of that. At that point, it doesn't much matter what type of wood you use.

Minwax 60910000 Wipe-On Poly Finish Clear, quart, Satin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OBMDXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4iGACbZFG5Q08

Gerneal Finishes Salad Bowl Finish

It recommends 3 coats, but I think I ended up with 5, sanding with finish grade steel wool between coats.

This is the second one I made, the first was for my oldest son about 4 years ago. The finish faded in luster considerably, so I thought adding a few more coats would help prolong the gleam.

Minwax wipe on poly, clear gloss.

http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-60900-Wipe-On-Polyurethane-Finish/dp/B009YNUT6Y

Minwax Poly is this what you're talking about and if so, should I get the regular or water based. Also which size, quart or half a pint. There is also an aerosol version of the regular version and I was wondering if that is just as good. Thanks

Can you order off Amazon? https://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-Clear-Varnish-1000-ml/dp/B005ADWKTG/ref=sr_1_1

To all the makers out there buying this "Turbo Glow" material from another supplier thus resulting in what I think is an inflated price. Now I could be wrong but all this stuff is, is a mixture of a glow powder

(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K0DQXD4/ref=twister_B01K0DQTM4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

and some type of or something similar to a clear epoxy resin

(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=AWNIMR5FR1N5J&psc=1)

placed into a block mold allowed to harden then cut into sections. The brittle nature of this material is probably dependent on how much powder is used. The more you use the brighter and more brittle it will be.

Now this is just my theory on "Turbo Glow" again I could be wrong. In any case I intend to use this method for future projects of mine, take it or leave it.

https://www.amazon.com/Resin-Crystal-Gallon-Coating-TABLETOPS/dp/B00NLPCA5Y?keywords=Crystal+clear+epoxy+1+gallon&qid=1537575262&sr=8-2&ref=mp_s_a_1_2 this is one I'll be using

Yugos look best with natural coloring, and minimal to no gloss.
I've used Formby's low gloss tung oil (be sure to get low gloss) to good results. It isn't a true tung oil (more of a varnish) but leaves a nice solid finish.

Epifanes varnish. Use the Wood Finish Gloss to build up a smooth surface without sanding between each coat. Sand after a few coats and apply the Clear varnish for a stunning finish. It will give you the rich color you're after and the clear super smooth high gloss finish you want. Plus it has super UV and water resistance.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005ADX4N2/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SY115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=51QTN7uDRlL._SY200_QL15_&slTrans=0&ref=nsDpPl

http://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U

Sweet! Is this basically what I'm looking for?

https://www.amazon.com/General-Finishes-QTHS-Performance-Topcoat/dp/B001DSZ3C8/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493682698&sr=1-6&keywords=general+finishes

So the wood conditioner was just the standard Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner

https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-41500000-Pre-Stain-Wood-Conditioner/dp/B000C02AHY

For the poly, I plan on using some Minwax Polyurethane in clear satin

https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-63010444-Drying-Polyurethane-Finish/dp/B000VZLF58/

I know oil-based poly will leave a slight amber look as well...

From the translation, its just a solvent based urethane finish. This would be similar, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y4II3I. There are lots of manufacturers of solvent based urethane finishes though.

If I were you, I would use 2 x 12" joist material. Laminate two lengths of the material together such that it becomes a 4 x 12". Then, you will want to have a support as /u/wbgraphic suggests out of the same 4 x 12 material. Since this will be outside (from the sounds of it), you will want to use titebond III and then finish the entire assembly in marine varnish for durability (epifanes http://www.amazon.com/Epifanes-ECVSA-Clear-Varnish/dp/B005ADWQ9U is some hardcore shit). I would also suggest that the entire support structure should be attached not just by lagging to one side of the pole, but via a complete wrap around the pole either with steel cable or some other such structure.

100lbs isn't that much weight, but if you're going to use it as a heavy bag for martial arts, there are quite a few lateral forces to contend with and not just static load. Research how heavy signs are hung from buildings using a boom arm and you'll have a better idea.

General Finishes “wood bowl finish”

GF products are excellent.


General Finishes SBQT Wood Bowl Finish 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSXD7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cKb1DbBH7NM9C

I used this poly:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VZLF58/ref=asc_df_B000VZLF585149432/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B000VZLF58&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198071503086&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8167882762226370903&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011703&hvtargid=pla-349434744939

and this paint:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Olympic-Assure-Black-Flat-Latex-Interior-Paint-and-Primer-in-One-Actual-Net-Contents-128-fl-oz/4764166

The paint I used is paint+primer.

An alternative to shellac would be wipe-on polyurethane. This is the stuff I use, works like a charm. Goes on thin so you don't have to worry about drips or runs. It does darken the wood a little bit since it's oil based, but that means that the grain and any figure also pops.

After you paint minis that you intend to play with it’s a good idea to seal them with varnish. It protects the paint job otherwise you can start to wear it down over time.

Generally, matte varnish is best unless you want really shiny - take a look at the army painter spray here:

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3003-Anti-Shine-Varnish/dp/B005WH4C2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=the+army+painter&qid=1555252570&s=gateway&sr=8-14


The reason you want to do it before basing them is the varnish will cloud up the clear base, so you want to get them all finished before re-basing them.

Hope this helps!

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

1. Wetsand with 800 then 2000 grit sandpaper (go lower if deeper scratches and work up to 2000)
   
   
2. Polish with some kind of plastic polish using a microfiber buffing attachment for a drill.
   
   
3. Clean with rubbing alcohol to remove residue.
   
   
4. Mix 50/50 ratio of mineral spirits and Helmsman Spar Urethane clear gloss (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y4II3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YECdBbHRN1QTD)
   
   
5. Apply the mixture to headlight with 1"x1" folded blue shop towel.
   
   The full guide:
   http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/19021-headlight-restoration-new-uv-sealant-idea.html

If you are having people sign the bare wood and then you want to cover it with something glossy i suggest epoxy. Something like this should do the trick. Check youtube for tutorials on how to use it, but it is fairly simple.

I think you can get some epoxy resin to skim the top.

EPOXY RESIN CRYSTAL CLEAR 1 Gallon Kit. FOR SUPER GLOSS COATING AND TABLETOPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ed4bBb2D7YJGZ

https://www.amazon.com/Painter-CP3003-Anti-Shine-Matte-Varnish/dp/B005WH4C2S

I would be very careful with your decision. A countertop can be considered a food-contact surface, yes? You should strongly consider a food-grade sealer. Most sealers are highly toxic.

I recommend using a food-grade varnish. It’s far more durable and long-lasting than mineral oil, but not as much so as other sealers.

[Here is my favorite for cutting boards and such. ](General Finishes SBQT Salad Bowl Finish, 1 quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSXD7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lJn9AbRCA13JH) It isn’t cheap, but eating toxic substances won’t end up being cheap either.

Edit: hopefully a working link?

Btw: it’s waaaay cheaper anywhere else but amazon, for some reason.

What if you embedded the flowers in epoxy resin similar to this countertop

Thanks, I'm going to go ahead and try thin layers of Envirotex pour on gloss. Has 1 bottle of resin and 1 bottle of hardener that you mix.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZYYQ0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In case anyone wanted detailed instructions, I followed these steps: http://www.buildyourownpokertables.com/how-to-build-an-octagon-racetrack-poker-table

Cup Holders: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FAMCCA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Playing Cloth: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EU36SA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stain: Rust-Oleum Wood Stain Dark Walnut http://amzn.com/B00714KDV4

Polyurethane: Minwax Fast Drying Clear Satin http://amzn.com/B000VZLF58

No finish yet, but I was planning to use this marine grade varnish once the table top is on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ADWKTG

Looked around and tried to find some, but poly isn't very popular here at all and there's nowhere that stocks anything minwax whatsoever it seems (checked multiple amazons and price runners across the continent), so I am considering importing from the US - how's this look: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009YNUT6Y/ ?

Thanks for the reply! Is this a good one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B001OBMDXQ/ref=olp_twister_child?ie=UTF8&mv_color_name=1&mv_size_name=1&mv_style_name=0

I could never seem to get a great finish with minwax polly, but then I switched to the Arm-R-Seal polly and it was night and day. very smooth and just all around a higher quality finish

Check this stuff out: https://amzn.com/B000BZYYQ0

Or, you could put a piece of glass on top of the door.

I would make sure that this is going to be an aesthetic that you'll like though...

I really like Formby's tung oil varnish blend, you can get it at Lowe's or on Amazon. http://amzn.com/B000BZZ4ZU

Thanks dude! And, yeah that's an awesome design, I think it'd make a cool deck too.

I'll let you in on a secret that took me forever to figure out: the best way to make masking / stencils is to get yourself some transparency sheets, like the kind used for overhead projectors in school, and then take a marker and draw what you want to spray through (best way to make stencils). Then take a 'wood burning kit' (which is just a low-heat soldering gun pretty much) and use it to "trace" your lines on the transparancy sheet, do it light and quick and it'll cut the parts out that you want - afterwards you'll be left with a mask or stencil that's much stronger than paper, easy to clean, and the wood engraver allows you to make more detailed and smoother cuts than if you were masking with tape, or cutting out of cardboard or card stock.

When you finish your painting, you'll want to give it a light coat of clear spray finish, and when that dries hit it with a coact of actual clear coat - I use minwax - that''s 'satin' (which is their way of saying 'matte') listed there but I prefer mine to be gloss. It's important that you hit it with the spray finish first, because it'll seal the paint, and the minwax may cause it to run if you don't. I use a lot of markers in my paintings and minwax will absolutely make them bleed and run if I don't seal them first.

You also want to seal it because the acrylic will easily chip off the deck

Like I said, also be aware that painting on a deck is A LOT different than painting on canvas, the deck will cause the acrylic to paint much faster than canvas so you lose that 'wet period' you normally have to blend paint.

Good luck, post a picture when you finish it! And feel free to drop me a line if you have any other questions.

just buy the miniwax wipe on polyurethane.

https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-40910000-Wipe-Finish-Clear/dp/B000VZJGPO