Best household stains according to redditors

We found 166 Reddit comments discussing the best household stains. We ranked the 87 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Household Stains:

u/eldredracing · 15 pointsr/Luthier

If you want to "stain", look into keda dyes. They are cheap and you can mix the color to your liking. I've done a couple of burst finishes with them and it was no problem. Here is a telecaster album with the dye process:

Dye itself:

u/Zilog8 · 12 pointsr/DIY

Hey, I had the same problem (but with people). What I did was buy a can of clear non-skid coating, and it works like a charm. It wears off over time however, depending on how much foot traffic it gets. I usually reapply once a year.

u/Squeazle · 12 pointsr/woodworking

After I posted my new split-top Roubo a few months ago, a lot of you said, “great, now go build something with it.” So, ya know, I did.

About halfway through the bench build, a co-worker approached me and told me about a bunch (about 105 b.f.) of 8/4 local Florida Cypress that he had purchased on Craigslist and wanted to be made into an outdoor table. We both started to get excited about the ideas we were tossing out and he eventually agreed to commission me to build it. So the fun challenge was figuring out how much table and one bench he could get out of the amount of wood on hand (he wanted to put two chairs on the other side) instead of the usual design, calculate, buy. We did some back and forth on the design while I finished my bench but he largely left it all up to me. I heavily based the design on Marc Spagnoulo’s rustic outdoor table because I really want to build one for myself. I added a few refining details that I’ve wanted to try in a project and eliminated one stretcher because of the amount of wood available. Some of the details worked, others I would change on subsequent versions.

Once the workbench was done, I got to dig in on the table. The first difficulty was the wood itself. Either my co-worker or the person from whom he bought it from had left the wood out for quite a while so that it was pretty discolored with mildew, was a bit punky in spots, and had been snacked on by bugs. My cutlist kept getting thrown out whenever I’d cut into a piece and find a worm or termite track. I kept a close eye on the wood and didn’t see any further signs of living critters but it did get annoying at times. I got around most of them but there are a few small tracks visible, not more than 1/32” wide or ½” long but I eliminated all big tracks. (1/4” wide) I’ve never worked with Cypress before and it was definitely a learning experience. New growth Cypress is so soft. If you imagine wood grain as a lot of straws bundled together, this stuff is like a bunch of pool noodles, yet it still proved quite prone to tear out. I’d sharpen my hand tools 2-3 times a day to keep getting clean, slicing cuts. No matter how sharp my plane blades/ tight my mouth/ close my chipbreaker was though, I’d still get areas of tear out in difficult areas. After some reading around and some great advice from r/woodworking, it seemed a lower angle iron might be the solution. Weeellll, I just happen to have some money set aside and now an excuse so, go ahead, twist my arm, I’ll get a new toy. Lie-Nielsen’s low angle jack proved to be absolutely perfect and gave me the best surface I’ve encountered right off the plane.

A few of the changes I decided to make to The Wood Whisperer’s table was to taper the legs, bevel the underside of the table top, and use drawbored dowels for the joinery. They worked well enough, especially since the customer loved the end product, but I’ll change things further on subsequent versions.

First would be the taper of the legs. It’s meant to be a bit rustic but I tapered the legs because I didn’t want an overly blocky look to it. When designing and then building it, something didn’t sit quite right but it didn’t condense into an idea why. After it was too late, I saw Marc building his gaming table and it clicked. Those legs were tapered from the inside, mine were tapered from the outside. I don’t have the design education to describe it using the right jargon but the lines of my table remind me of a shy person standing with their feet together, trying not to be noticed. The lines drag your eye down to the ground. Whereas Marc’s reminds me of the superman pose; someone standing with their legs slightly apart confidently. Your eyes are drawn up to the main part of the table. I’m still happy with my table but it’s something to improve on the next version, though I don’t know yet how that will jive with the side rails.

The next item I’d change is the drawbore pins. I’ve seen plenty of shaker pieces with squared off dowels set in a diamond pattern and cut from a contrasting wood color. They look very elegant and I wanted to try it here. First, I went with too many. I didn’t need two in each joint. It was having two dowels and the dowel’s shape that caused the first joint I put together to blow apart. I made most of the dowel round using Veritas’ dowel cutter, leaving the end tapered to a square. From an article on square shaker pegs in Fine Woodworking, I expected the softer Cypress to just deform to the harder Mahogany dowel. The problem was that the taper from round to square was too long, (about ¾”) meaning it was spreading apart the wood deeper down. It could only handle so much deformation before it split. The solution was to take a chisel to the rest of the dowels and limit the taper to about 1/8” and only drive it in to the point where it just transitioned to fully square. Chiseling the receiving hole just shy of square also meant the Cypress had to deform less so no splitting and a crisper diamond pattern. If I do it again, one dowel will be enough but I don’t even think I’ll do a contrasting color again. This wood is filled with knots and, instead of the dowels being a pleasant interruption of monotonous grain, it just joins the knots to make it look busy and chaotic. It just doesn’t stand out in a pleasant way.

The arched stretcher ended up being 4” tall instead of 3 ½” because, after making and putting in the side rails, loe and behold, I F’ed up. They were further apart than planned and I had to make the stretcher taller to accommodate.

The other two changes were the beveled undersides of the table and bench tops and all the other bevels added to the bench top. Those I would leave as I think they look really nice, giving each a visually lighter look than their 1 ½” thickness. The beveled top of the bench seat makes for a more comfortable spot to rest your posterior for a long while.

The other great thing to come from this project was that I got to use my hand tools more on this project than any previous build, especially hand planes. Obviously it was just too big for any of my hobby level power tools but I geeked out on every bit of it and it got me really comfortable with several tools.

Finally, I finished it fully expecting to be an outdoor table. I used Watco teak oil that could easily be reapplied in later years and won’t blister like a film finish. I applied clear penetrating epoxy sealer to the feet to stop absorption be the end grain at the bottom of the legs and keep them from rotting from the ground up. Lastly, I put a few coats of Minwax Finishing Paste Wax on the tops of the table and bench as a barrier against mustard, ketchup, beer, etc. It’s shinier than I intended but will knock down pretty quickly. However, as it turned out, he loved it so much it will now be the main dining table inside his house and some CL table will be found for outdoors. I’m perfectly ok with that.

Thanks for looking, reading, and any constructive criticism you can throw my way. Thanks for all the advice leading up to this and my workbench. You, my fellow wood nerds, are awesome.

u/d0gmeat · 10 pointsr/DIY

I'm a fan of Watco butcher block finish. It finishes harder like a poly, especially with a few coats (think wooden spoons that you buy)... Less greasy than mineral oil or wax. I do use the stuff you used on my cutting boards though.

But for knife blocks and other stuff that won't take quite as much abuse as a cutting board but still needs a safer finish than poly, the Watco stuff if great. (Lowe's carries it, btw... Dunno about home depot)

u/dontakelife4granted · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I would fill, then use these You can use several colors to mimic the grain in the wood making it pretty hard to notice if you don't know where it was.

u/CurbStomp64 · 8 pointsr/howto

A stain marker would do the trick, just gotta eyeball a similar shade. Example:

u/gfixler · 7 pointsr/woodworking

Play it some Daft Punk ;)

You can get wood stabilized through certain companies. Basically, they use proprietary means to infiltrate the surfaces with resins that essentially infuse the wood with plastic. You can also coat the wood with strong substances. There are actual products called wood hardeners meant more for bolstering rotting wood, but they'd probably toughen it up some. If you're just looking to strengthen the surface against dings and scratches, you can just do a nice, strong finish.

As to that, I don't know anyone who knows more about finishing wood than Jeff Jewitt. He has books on the subject. Good books. In this article by Jeff, he writes "In fact, oil-based varnish is the most durable finish that can be easily applied by the average woodworker. Varnish surpasses most other finishes in its resistance to water, heat, solvents and other chemicals." That might be a good choice.

u/TeamBenny14 · 6 pointsr/turning

I've been very happy with it so far, I bought it on Amazon, but you can probably get it a Woodcraft or similar if there's one near you.

u/tambor333 · 6 pointsr/woodworking

I spent a few minutes on the interwebs looking at finished maple. honestly this looked the best to me

do a Google image search for danish oil on maple and you will see what I mean.

u/With_which_I_will_no · 6 pointsr/woodworking

obligatory post for

if you want to really understand this subject. get it, read it. I have read it several times.

it's like the bible of finishing.

u/MrCaptainJorgensen · 5 pointsr/Luthier

K, if this is wrong, someone PLEASE, correct me! I'm here to be a good luthier, not cradle my ego.

I use an automotive paint for my color coats, see if you can find a local place that does custom jobs, my local shop has a binder as thick as a bible with color chips to choose from

For my clear coats, tint coats, sunbursts, etc I like Woodcraft's stringed instrument lacquer, it's basicall just a nitro finish, and I tint it with an ailide dye that I cut with alcohol

My biggest recommendation is get advise from a better luthier than myself. StewMac has a great book that has a lot of classic formulas, anf will give you all of the info you are looking for.

Edit: grammar/formatting is not my friend

u/kejadlen · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Wow, nailed it - it is indeed plywood birch. I used this Dark Walnut stain marker, which was super easy.

u/Dont_Think_So · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Here's the wood filament (note that my printer takes 3mm filament, you might need the 1.75mm filament which they also have available): . Alternatively, I've heard good things about hatchbox wood filament, but it wasn't available in 3mm on Amazon.

Here's the finisher: .

And here's a picture of this print from before I stained, to give you an idea of how it changes the print:

Edit: To get this level of darkness, I stained it twice, ten-fifteen minutes each.

u/thesnakeinwoodysboot · 4 pointsr/turning

This book right here. Everything you need to know about finishing is in this.

u/GDNerd · 3 pointsr/BloodAngels

Get a brush you don't care about, do 2-3 layers on the parts where its super obvious. Between that and judicious filing you can get areas like the legs looking a lot more natural.

u/ryzekiel · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Everyone's got to finish their projects, and I've found this book to be such a good resource:

u/considerthechainrule · 3 pointsr/Opinel

I recommend you use linseed oil, it looks great, and feels amazing. I also recommend that when you remove the finish you scrape it off with the back of another knife or similar tool (something with hard steel and 90* corners), and not sandpaper. On my previous Opinel I tried sandpaper, and it ruined the surface of the handle, and made the finish come out super ugly. Here's a pic of my currwnt olive wood Opinel with a linseed oil finish. There are tons of different linseed oils you can purchase on Amazon, but I'm not sure which one is the best. I personally used the generic brand I bought at home Depot.


Linseed oil:

u/B0bTerwilliger · 3 pointsr/Luthier

Thank you. I bought these Leda dyes Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Colour Kit - Wood Stain Powder by Keda Dye

u/CrimsonKeel · 3 pointsr/turning

this is the dye i ordered.
the directions were kinda crappy and confusing. so i ended up using the alcohol based part of the directions and it worked fine. Then i did a spray poly on it and buffed it to a shine.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Use a grease pen! Seriously though, I don't know how you would need to do it on walnut.

I did one in birch and burned in the scale and numbering, then overcoated with satin/flat version of this. Then I coated that in Minwax paste wax. The idea was/is for the marks for height or whatever are to be scratched in using a knife or scratch awl. Then that scratch would be gone over with a stain marker and wiped off. The wax would help the stain to only stick in the scratch.

Since you have a dark background, that won't work for you. I guess you could just use a regular light colored paint pen though. You would still have to scratch the wood to get it to stick. Wax, and to some extent polyurethane, won't let the paint stick permanently to it.

u/blackzx1200 · 3 pointsr/Luthier
I did a telecaster with aniline dyes from Keda.  Just mix with water or alcohol.<br />



u/Newtothisredditbiz · 3 pointsr/wafflescat

You can clean it! Try using a piece of melamine foam, also known as a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.

That should work, but if it doesn't, you can buff tough stains out using a Corian repair kit. It's basically fine sandpaper made for Corian surfaces.

Stainless dual-basin sinks have the distinct disadvantage of feeling cold to the touch and not fitting cats as well. Waffles may not approve.

u/RavRob · 2 pointsr/woodworking

It depends on the finish on the table now. If it is an oil, use Watco Butcher Block Oil and Finish. it will both protect it and rejuvenate the shine on it while keeping the antic look without adding any dark coloring to it.

u/Auntie_Social · 2 pointsr/DIY

Take a look at Danish Oil.

u/ShacklefordLondon · 2 pointsr/woodworking

also, check out Understanding Wood Finishes by Bob Flexner amazon link

It's basically an encyclopedia on best practices for finishing and goes through specific techniques for a LOT of different kinds of wood.

u/joelav · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Matching is hard. Personally I'd go for contrasting. Right now it's kind of close which isn't good. It looks out of place.

Because that's veneer you really don't want to go nuts stripping and sanding. There's a good chance you'll go through the veneer in spots. However you could go darker. General finishes Java gel stain can be applied over an existing finish.

u/mat5041 · 2 pointsr/woodworking


If you want to really have an idea of what you're doing when finishing, I recommend Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner

u/dstampfli · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I respectfully call Bullpucky on that.

"Almost any finishing product – stain, filler, glaze, finish – can be applied successfully over any other finishing product, except wax (including residue wax from paint strippers), as long as that product is dry." - Bob Flexner.

This article is good. His BOOK is even better.

u/PBYACE · 2 pointsr/boatbuilding

I would sand it down, dry it out thoroughly, like under a heat lamp, then using a poly varnish thinned down to water-like consistency, add coats to it until it no longer takes any more. In bad cases, use something like this:;amp;keywords=minwax+primer&amp;amp;qid=1555787793&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sprefix=minwax+primer%2Caps%2C229&amp;amp;sr=8-3-fkmrnull
Pros tell me that seven coats of varnish is the absolute minimum.

u/BoxxcarCadavers · 2 pointsr/turning

I used the Rustoleum version of this on my shot glasses that I made recently. Holds up to alcohol pretty well and is food safe so I'm guessing the wear and tear is pretty good as well. I think the salad bowl stuff is essentially the same thing as well.

Hope this helps :)

u/danspamman · 2 pointsr/woodworking

The epoxy I used is only in New Zealand I think (Norski Timber Sealer), but this seems to be the same thing :

TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy

I've not used that one, but it seems to be the same thing, to give you an idea of what you're looking for. I'm sure there are lots of different brands.

u/NinjaCoder · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I have been using this product mixed 50/50 with laquer thinner (in order to get a deeper penetration). While it seems expensive, one quart of this goes a long way.

u/LumberingTroll · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

It looks awesome, in the future if you want the layer lines to go away completely, put two to three (depending on layer height, larger needs more)very thin coats of Minwax Polycrylic on the model with a brush, it dries in about 15 - 20 mins, and just keep repeating until they are no longer visible. one pint will last a really long time.;keywords=polycrylic+clear+gloss&amp;qid=1567951875&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=polycrylic+%2Caps%2C158&amp;sr=8-2

u/megashub · 1 pointr/Tak

For the light-colored pieces, I used a 1" x 36" square pine(?) dowel, with a Minwax Golden Pecan stain and a basic sealer.

For the dark-colored pieces, I used a 1-1/8" x 36" round oak dowel, with a Minwax Red Mahogany stain and the same basic sealer.

I intentionally avoided varnishing or any kind of gloss finish, preferring the rougher, more natural feel of unpolished wood. Downside is that it feels just slightly too rough for my liking right now, but it's my first stab at this, so I'll solve that problem next time, and these will hopefully wear down smoother as they get used.

To make these flat on one edge, I just removed a portion wood down the long edge of the dowel before dicing it up into pieces.
From there, I just sanded off all of the hard corners to give them a worn, softer feel.

The textures you're seeing are just natural from the wood itself. I didn't do anything to create them other then anything the saw might have done during cutting.

Edit: corrections to wood size and stain info.

u/lemonforest · 1 pointr/OpenPV

One more for you; Looking at this on Amazon, any thoughts? Also, where I have a seam between edges from doing the outside and inside, will I want to buff or anything or is this going to be like concrete and slow and steady wins the race?

u/Kdubs200 · 1 pointr/turning

Yeah I'm thinking about drinking out of it not sure how it will taste. I put on a food safe finish it's called watco;amp;robot_redir=1

u/crashdmj · 1 pointr/homegym

I used the following:;amp;psc=1

Just a word of advice, spray this outside or in a well ventilated area or else be prepared to be smelling the noxious fumes for a couple hours later.

u/Alucard1797 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I don't think so, but here is a link to what I frequently use.

u/kryptoniterazor · 1 pointr/diyguitar

That looks like the elvis costello jazzmaster? The new reissue fender did was alder with a "walnut" finish and nitrocellulose lacquer. That guitar in the picture looks like it has a much more satin finish though, so you'd have to do some sanding to get it looking more flat instead of shiny. Either way alder with a dark stain will get you most of the way.

I've tried to do walnut stain on light wood before and it's had mixed results, often brings out too much of the grain (especially on pine) so be sure to test the stain on the interior of the pickup cavity before you do the whole thing.

u/RamblingMutt · 1 pointr/Luthier

I would suggest:

u/ccrjf · 1 pointr/turning

I haven't used food coloring yet, so can't really comment on that aspect of it, but I ordered some Keda Dye about a year ago because I wanted to experiment with aniline dye without blowing a chunk of change on TransTint. I mix it with DNA (water can be used as well) so I can flash it off with a torch and set the colors quickly. Example on a bowl

u/Fistsofpassion · 1 pointr/battlestations

Hey I really appreciate it! I used Minwax brand everything for the stain and sealer. The first go around was not a success due mostly to the brush we used. I ended up using a black foam brush which worked much better. The legs and riser supports are painted white for a contrast (basic white paint). I try to keep things simple and realistic but also make it look nice. It may not be perfect but hopefully I get to keep improving!

u/Skrugz11 · 1 pointr/DIY

Has anyone ever used wood hardener? Minwax 41700 1 Pint High Performance Wood Hardener

u/BrungardtBlade-Tool · 1 pointr/Bladesmith

I used Minwax to stabilize about 12 sets of scales inside a pickle jar I turned into a vacuum with a brake bleeder and a brass fitting. So long as you don't manage to suck up the resin into the break bleeder it'll last long enough to get your moneys worth. Got about 27PSI with a full jar load which is enough so long as your scales are not too thick (over 1/2").

This video is basically the same thing I built but with a pump.

Haven't used it but I know cactus juice is very popular.

u/HuggableBear · 1 pointr/woodworking

Try some aniline wood dye.

A little goes a long way and you can blend your own colors.

u/00l00 · 1 pointr/dubai

Micromesh is just a simple Aluminum Oxide (AO) abrasive pad. You should be able to find generic ones at the specialty stores locally.

They have a distributor in Sharjah:


Category: Industrial Products

Products Carried: Micro-Mesh

LOB 7G-23, Hamriyah Free Zone

PO Box - 41808

Sharjah, UAE

Contact: K. Yadan

[email protected]

Phone: 00971 50 5015 406

Fax: 00971 4 3969 407

It is also available on Amazon (

u/litronix · 1 pointr/tabletop

This stuff,

Don't have much use for the red, yellow, and blue. I mostly used the brown with a touch of black.

u/happyrabbits · 1 pointr/woodworking

Thank you!

I used KEDA Dye

u/justinyhuang · 1 pointr/woodworking

thank you for the reply!

i am in ID, USA.

Woodworking has been my hobby for a few years. I've tried brush stain on some of my projects but I haven't tried dye.

Do you think I can get this color by using the stain below?;amp;qid=1467402865&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=wood+stain

u/TheJD · 1 pointr/Woodcarving

I haven't had a chance to use it yet but you can try using a stain conditioner just before staining. I can't tell you how well it works with bassword personally however.

u/f1zzz · 1 pointr/Bladesmith

You can find it at Home Depot, too;amp;qid=1449020221&amp;amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;amp;sr=8-1

Might not penetrate as well, never used CA glue, but it'll definitely gap fill and then some.

It's often used for bar/table tops.

u/danhalka · 1 pointr/woodworking

Thanks! ..and nope, no pre-sealer nor conditioner - I just dampened with water to raise grain, sand to 220, wipe clean and go. Here is the dye I used with denatured alcohol.

u/DavidPx · 1 pointr/woodworking

Understanding Wood Finishing by Box Flexner has a whole section on French Polishing, well worth a read.

u/ArizonaLad · 1 pointr/DIY

So you want to create your own butcher block?

If you just want to glue it, using a biscuit joiner would insure that it remains flat and level. The biscuits help lock it together.

For the finish, you want to look for the label "food safe". Something like this:

u/bassfingerz · 1 pointr/guitarporn

wood dye if you want color, spray tru oil or shellac. You can buy the tru oil spray cans online, not sure if they have in stores.
I recommend this
wood dye.

u/Supervisor194 · 1 pointr/finishing

If it is really wood, you can sand it and use Java Gel Stain.

If it isn't really wood, and I suspect it isn't, then it may not stick, especially with you putting things on/off of it.

u/leroy_sunset · 1 pointr/woodworking

Yeah, Osmo Top Oil is a blend of plant-based oils and a wax that have been heated to polymerize. It is supposed to be amazing.

u/flashlightwarrior · 1 pointr/finishing

Well, regarding the sanding, my rule of thumb is to sand moving up through the grits until the sanding marks disappear. How high I go with the grits depends a lot on the tool I'm using (hand sanding versus orbital sander versus random orbital sander),species of wood, and what finish I plan to put on it. Hand sanding following the grain is pretty forgiving, because the scratch pattern blends in with the grain. Orbital sanders tend to leave a scratch pattern across the grain which stands out. Random orbitals are better, but still leave some swirls across the grain. If I'm going to stain it, sanding marks will show up much more strongly than if I was just going to clear coat it. Every project is different, but typically I'll sand to at least 180 if I'm staining, and at least to 120 if I'm just oiling and clear coating. In truth I usually go higher than those numbers, but if I'm in a rush I can get away with those as minimums. I've used it on a couple of projects and have been quite pleased with it.

Now, all that said, the amount of sanding you do doesn't really change the porosity of the wood. Rough sanding will leave a more toothy surface, but that doesn't make much difference to an oil or other penetrating finish, because it will soak in as deep as the cell structure of the wood allows regardless of how smooth it is. Paints don't penetrate, they just cling to the surface, so leaving a more toothy surface does benefit them. I looked at the primer you linked, and I'm still not quite sure what to make of it, but it seems to me to be something along the lines of what I've seen called grain conditioner, which is basically a thin oil that penetrates and soaks into the wood to sort of level out how the wood absorbs subsequent layers of stain or dye or whatever. It basically helps prevent blotchiness. Since it is a penetrating substance, it shouldn't really matter how much you sand it.

Since you seem to be having dificulty finding a final finish, I might suggest OSMO Top Oil. It's a hard wax oil that both penetrates and leaves a wax film on the surface. It's meant specifically for kitchen countertops, so it should be able to handle hard use and abuse, and it's easy to apply more as it wears over time.

u/doppelbock42 · 1 pointr/turning

Unfinished should be fine but if you wanted to use something they make finishes for things that will contact food. Here's an example of one made for butcher blocks and salad bowls. I've never used it myself.

u/randohandle · 1 pointr/DIY

I just redid this thing A sanded to 150 grit with bare wood. I'm not sure there was any finish on it to begin with. I used this dye 1/4 teaspoon in 8oz of denatured alcohol. 2-3 coats of the dye with a piece of t shirt. Black on the dresser and red on the drawers. It dries in like 30 seconds. The dye looks different when it dries, but polyurethane over top brings it back to how it looks when wet. Then I put on a few coats of old crusty oil based polyurethane with a $.50 harbor freight brush. Let the 2nd to last coat dry for 24 hours. Lightly sand and pick out the fibers shed by the brush. Then the final coat.

u/Regel_1999 · 1 pointr/woodworking

It was This type of wood filler.It was Minwax Stain

u/BrassUnicorn · 1 pointr/InteriorDesign

I bought mine off amazon because they're notoriously hard to find in person

u/catdumpling · 1 pointr/Luthier

Good job (although I don't think you'll need that much maple ;) .) And hey, if you're crafty and feeling like making some guitar tools, you can use some of that maple, epoxy and a single-cut file (medium or fine) to make a fret-leveling file! I always keep some pieces of HD maple laying around, it comes in handy for all sorts of projects (plus it's strong and cheap!)

BTW, here's a link to Keda Dyes on Amazon, although they're available from their own site as well. The packets are small, but it's super concentrated (as are most powdered aniline dyes), so a little bit goes a long way. For $13 shipped, you might be interested in trying them out.

Here's a link to Fiebings Leather Dye, if you're considering giving that a go. Note that it's alcohol-based, so you can thin them out with alcohol if necessary (they're pretty heavy colors, so thinning would probably be a good thing; you can always add extra coats, but you'll have a lot of sanding to do if you put on too much!) Woodcraft and Rockler both carry some dyes as well, and Woodcraft is just a great place to shop anyway.

u/djfunkysquish · 1 pointr/woodworking

I'm working right now on getting a finish much like what you're describing that is based off a sister product to the one Gomlemer noted. I used this epoxy mainly cause it was available in small quantities at the local big box stores on short notice.

I want a finish for reclaimed wood that retains the history but still looks and feels great. Plus i didn't want the finish to be crazy thick. I wanted the holes filled, but the subtle contour of the wood to still be present.
Here's where i went with my finish. I used a clear coat poly to bring out the wood grain and make it pop. (not sure yet if you need this step). Then i used mixed the epoxy per the instructions on the box, but thinned it with about 10% to 20% acetone. Once I had the final mixture I brushed it on. I went over that sucker a bunch making sure no drips were forming cause i eventually got it on pretty thick, but certainly not as thick as just pouring it on and spreading it. Once it set but not cured about 8-12 hours if it wasn't thick enough or there were spots that weren't smooth enough based on the wood contour i mixed a little more and went over those again with the brush.

After I was happy with the thickness of the epoxy I let it cure to it's high gloss finish. Then went over the entire surface with #0000 steel wool. Then a couple of layers paste wax later i was pretty happy with the finish.
As I'm still working on the finish for a large project I hope to take on this winter (a table from my grandfathers barn) i don't have any huge pieces to show, but here are a few shots from the test laptop table I put together to figure out the finish.

u/kevinswood · 1 pointr/woodworking

What would be the end result difference between the Shellac and the water based poly? I assume something like this? Minwax 255554444 Minwaxc Polycrylic Water Based Protective Finishes, 1/2 Pint, Gloss

u/probablydyslexic · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have had success with Hatchbox on my Prusa

Also this stain, and color variants of it. Some stains are horrendously liquidy and often the things I want to stain that I have 3D printed are complex shapes that I want to carefully stain.

u/maple_blondie · 1 pointr/DIY

Use a gel stain like General Finishes Gel Stain -

u/cactuspants · 1 pointr/woodworking

Yup. HD only carries this one (at least in my area).

Before you do that though, watch this video about staining blotchy woods (relevant part starts around the 4min mark). He uses diluted shellac as a base coat, which is a more versatile product than something as specific as a pre-stain condition. I haven't tried this yet, but I will after I finish up all this pre-stain that I have.

u/ailee43 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Check out powdered Keda dyes as a comparable alternative for enormously cheaper:

u/sevans105 · 1 pointr/DIY

minwax woodhardener May help as well. Basically makes it plastic. Gonna need A LOT though to do the whole stool. The cracks will be through the whole piece.

Cool effect though is to let it crack. Then mix up clear epoxy with crushed turquoise, or some other stone/metal/etc and fill it back in.

Check out this video. youtube inlay with turquoise sand

u/Witcher357 · 1 pointr/BdsmDIY

I've used this for an insertable custom flogger handle. Its glossier than the 2-ton and adds a honey amber tone to the wood.

u/Linguist208 · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind

Something like this or this?

u/qovneob · 1 pointr/DIY

Ive never used Rit but had good results with aniline dye. It doesnt require any bleaching and is easy to adjust the darkness.

Fading is only an issue in direct sunlight, and over a long time, but a clear UV inhibiting top coat can help with that.