Best household supplies according to redditors
We found 10,848 Reddit comments discussing the best household supplies. We ranked the 4,751 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 10,848 Reddit comments discussing the best household supplies. We ranked the 4,751 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I guess I'll make a statement about our revenue plans vs our community activity.
1/ We didn't make the frontpage changes for any revenue-related or mainstreaming reason. We made them because (as has actually been discussed in this very subreddit quite often) the default subreddits all evolve in different ways and the community itself begins to find one or more of those subreddits more or less valuable/desirable. (I think you all know what I'm talking about; this will be the only paragraph where I talk a bit sideways, because I don't want to shit on people) Similarly, other emerging subreddits begin to show a lot of promise so in the interests of adding more fresh material, we've added them to the defaults.
1a/ There is a minor point that sometimes taking a subreddit out of the defaults and removing the pressures of the limelight can allow it to incubate and improve, but that wasn't a reason in our decisions; it's just something that occurred to me today.
2/ Our revenue plans encompass the following areas:
It is marketing, but it's not what you expect: we think that quality customer service is one of those "difficult to see, but ultimately most valuable" aspects of a company, and companies who do this don't get enough recognition. Thus, this model helps make it clear when a company provides good customer service. The marketing value to them is not that they are a reddit gold partner, but that they are seen explicitly taking good care of redditors. (as it happens, if they don't, we will drop them) Again, they don't pay us for inclusion in that program - they have to be invited, and on the basis of us thinking they have something valuable to offer [at least some subset of] redditors.
In none of these cases do we need (or want) to modify or editorialize the logged-out front page. We do modify and editorialize the front page by selecting the defaults, but we do it entirely for community-oriented reasons. We will probably continue to do so.
The truth (bland and unconspiracy that it is) is that we think if we do things for the community for community- and user- focused reasons, users will continue to be happy with us. Advertisers go where users go, and because subreddits already separate themselves from each other and advertisers can target by subreddit, there's very little fear of an ad appearing next to "objectionable" content that they didn't select. The user/community focus of reddit gold benefits and a marketplace is also pretty self-evident: if we make users happy with reddit, they will pay for reddit. There is just so much weird talk these days about financial engineering and weird business models by investment banker types that it pervades and distorts even normal peoples' expectations of how a business might be run - at reddit we are just trying to run a business in the old fashioned way: we make a thing, we try to make it as good we can for YOU, and you pay us money for it. My background is that of an engineer - I like to keep things simple.
A note about short-term vs long-term money. It turns out that you have to plan for BOTH the short-term and the long-term. If you don't eat in the short-term, you die and never make it to the long-term. If you do everything short-term, you have no long-term future. So we need to make enough money this year to pay the bills and fund next year's growth, and we also need to put into place the cornerstones of future growth at the same time. It's a balancing act.
Finally, if you would like to buy some tinfoil (actually aluminum), please use this Amazon affiliate link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001R2NM5U/ref=as_li_ss_til?tag=reddit-dh-20
I got my husband one of these and our vacuum stopped looking like that. He scoffed at me when I bought it but now he loves it. :)
http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8
Only because it looks like you might have stripped the paint and might be sanding and that looks like older paint
use $20 and buy some EPA lead test swabs to check the paint for lead https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU
lead is a powerful neurotoxin and if inhaled or absorbed through your skin - you won't finish the last tread before you start feeling the effects of lead (you'll find other things to do than finish the treads)
Grunge Off
Infinitely better than the alcohol/salt routine, and the stuff is even reusable. I've been using the same two bottles for about a year now. I have no idea how it works, but it does.
Use Barkeeper's Friend. Will take it right off and look brand new.
*Edit: Fixed link, sorry!
https://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-FURemover-Squeegee-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=fur+broom&qid=1559142610&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 Pretty sure its this one.
http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
Supposedly the 8th miracle of the world.
fyi for carpets there's a broom like thing where at the ends, instead of bristles, it's basically rubber, to "sweep" up all the hair in the carpet. my mom uses it for my hella fluffy pomeranian when he's at max floof capacity (ie after he's done shedding and all his hair grows back in 1 week and he just poofs up like a popcorn)
edit: found it
I've never tried using a disposable razor before, but I have a "fabric shaver," which has given new life to a ton of my clothes. It works really well for getting off both pills and lint that has woven itself into the fabric.
I think my favorite solution was the Shittens. A product I didn't even know existed. I'd have to imagine they are also far less porous than socks...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F547P6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R.EXCbCB1337H
Looks, like it rubbed on something in the packaging.... this might be your most inexpensive solution: https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Fuzz-Away-Fabric-Shaver-RTFS-2/dp/B0034BV6KA
https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-500/dp/B001R2NM5U
It's called melamine foam, and is also used in soundproofing rooms. You can buy the off brand stuff for WAAAY cheaper than Mr clean. Here's 100 of them for 10 bucks with free shipping. Mr clean wants like 8 bucks for 4 of them.
toss some of these packs in an airtight jar with your bud for longer term storage https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-62-Percent-2-Way-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4?th=1
I can’t tell if you’re joking or not, but barkeepers friend is a cleaning powder product lol
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B000V72992
Amazon link for non-mobile, non-UK friends.
http://www.amazon.com/Remington-Battery-Operated-Fabric-Shaver/dp/B0034BV6KA
A fabric shaver. Here's some examples:
https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Fuzz-Away-Fabric-Shaver-RTFS-2/dp/B0034BV6KA
The website is not active, but it is registered with the campaign creators name.
But I agree that it looks very much like a resale.
EDIT 1: These Alibaba or these [Amazon gloves called "Shittens Disposable Mitten"] (http://www.amazon.com/Shittens-Disposable-Mitten-shaped-Moist-Wipes/dp/B00F547P6S) look quite similar :D
EDIT 2: User question regarding the Shittens:
>Are these re-usable?
Answer: If you turn them inside out they are perfectly reusable for a second time wipe.
Hahaha...
Barkeeper's Friend will remove the scratches:
Bar Keepers Friend® Cleanser & Polish: 12 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V72992/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_96FeAb3K8H79A
Try Barkeepers friend!
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend®-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
So I've done a lot of mopping in my day. Over 2 decades combined working at vet clinics and restaurants, both of which are mopped daily.
Throw out the cheap sponge mops, twirl mops and gimmicky mops. Get a mop bucket with a wringer and a mop handle with a detachaable, washable mop head. I prefer the plastic attachment to the metal on the mop. I've seen the metal get all rusty. This is the mop bucket I got.. It's decent, just feels a little cheap compared to the more commercial ones I'm used to. I would rather a bucket like this which is more sturdy, but I was trying to save money.
For mop heads, do yourself a favor and spend a couple extra dollars and get the kind with the loopy ends that are stitched across like this, instead of the ones that are all loose and cut like this.. The loose ones come apart in the washing machine and get all tangled. I like to have 2 mop heads that I rotate.
Now for the mopping. Make sure you sweep/vacuum before mopping. I find dust mops work best for cleaning up fur and hair. Use hot water in the bucket, and the add your cleaner according to the instructions on the bottle. I've used Pinesol/Mr. Clean/Lysol all with about the same results. Thoroughly wet your mop and then ring it out in the mop bucket. Mop your floors in an figure eight pattern going with the grain of the wood for wood/laminate floors. For wood and laminate floors, it's important not to have too wet of a mop. You do not want puddles of water on your floor as this can damage the floors in the long run. Rewet and ring out the mop frequently.
If I have time, I will sometimes go over my floors a second time with something like Pledge floor cleaner. for shine. These cleaners are not meant to be diluted with water, but applied directly to the floors.
This is not the most exciting video, but it shows the two cleaner process I use as well. You may notice that her mop head attachment is rusted, and she does not use the loopy mop head. Obviously it's not wrong, I just prefer slightly different tools. (She does have the better mop bucket).
If you are a visual learner, there are a bunch of YouTube videos with professional cleaners showing good mopping techniques.
Whaaaat!? I've never seen those and now I want one! opens amazon
Edit: I ordered this one!!! It even doubles as a squeegee!! I'm so excited lol thanks, OP! It's going to be amazing on my wood stairs AND carpet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8bPIybBK6B24R
"Magic erasers" are your enemy, "Melamine sponges" are your friend.
They're exactly the same thing, but it costs 20x less if you you don't buy the brand name.
No recommendations on a specific brand but you could try getting a clothes shaver. They're pretty good about taking the pilling off things that've gone through a dryer.
Barkeepers Friend and a scotch pad should clean that right up, along with almost any other surface in your house.
More line than you think you need. Double the line. You can never have enough line.
Waterproof, powerful flashlight my recommendation
Plastic bag with a lanyard for valuables/wallets/phones/licenses. Alternatively, a pelican case.
A pair of vice grip pliers ("The wrong tool to get every job done right")
A knife, as others said. I work professionally on the water as well as boating recreationally. The Myerchin Rigging Knife is the best all purpose knife to have on board. It might be a little overkill, but when you need a line cut fifteen seconds ago, you'll be glad you have it.
A VHF handheld radio and a knowledge of what channels are monitored by the USCG (13, 16, 22A), Commercial traffic (13/16) and local police/fire departments
Spare fuses, bulbs, plugs
A Towboat US membership
A bigger, heavier anchor if you're anywhere with a decent amount of current (rivers, oceans). I'm very much a proponent of overkill when it comes to anchoring. I use an anchor way bigger than my 20' pontoon needs, and it's a tad pricey, but once I drop it and pay out the scope, I rarely worry about dragging.
Bag of cleaning supplies. Rags, paper towels, and the holy trinity of vinyl care: melamine pads, CLR Mold & Mildew, and 303 protectant
Most important item of all: A bleach bottle with the bottom cut off
This one?
The only thing that makes me angry is that by doing this, this tabloid of a gamer news site justified this guys investment by giving him a platform to spout a bunch of sexist hate. Lucina and Rosalina are slutty character designs? Are you KIDDING me?
People like this need to be allowed to waste away in obscurity, plain and simple. He may be causing fans some pain in the short term, but by buying so many so fast he's actually giving Nintendo more incentive to re-release these lines of amiibos down the road. Hell, this would probably be a great article to email to Nintendo for them to justify producing more stock. But giving him a platform to spout a bunch of hate was incredibly irresponsible, and thanking him and wishing him luck at the end just cemented this site's status as a garbage online tabloid in my eyes. So fuck this guy, and fuck this shitty "news site". End of story.
Edit: Haaahahaha, oh man. So I went ahead and called out the author of this rag on giving this douche a platform, and his response after just two messages is "Cry more please". So yeah, this is undeniably a clickbait article by a desperate blogger.
Edit 2: HOLY SHIT HE DELETED THE ARTICLE! Oh man this is too good.
So after the author decided to reply to me with a baby wipes link (https://archive.today/o/xBKVZ/http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F547P6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420830653&sr=8-1) I replied with this little gem to another user in the comment thread;
"Tabloid schmucks like this have no concept of accountability or self image, they just keep scraping the bottom of the barrel until they realize they’re digging themselves into a hole. I have no vested interest in this site, and he has no way to justify his support of this moron, so all I have to do is push a bit here and there to get his true colors to show brighter and brighter. It’s quite comical, really."
Immediately after that I archived the page, since I had a feeling he couldn't handle being called out;
https://archive.today/xBKVZ
I guessed right. Dude wiped the comment, but because of their shitty anonymous comments section, I was able to just keep putting it right back up there. Went back and forth maybe 3 times until good ol' Randy decided to pull the article entirely.
Honestly, this was probably the most dickish thing I've done in a long time, but I'm kind of happy with myself at the same time now that this asshole gets one less point of exposure in the world. Now this cagey fuck can go back to languishing in obscurity like he deserves to. Sorry to anybody who was late to the party to read the original article but......shit dawg, people like this (mario and the article author) deserve to be called out, and that's all I had to do.
Much cheaper:
http://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-SW-250I-FR-AMZ-FURemover-Broom/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1458309948&sr=1-2&keywords=rubber+broom
There are lots of other things I use daily:
etc.
But the point I guess I'm making is that you can get lots of good, cheap stuff to start with.
I think it might be this!!
FURemover Pet Broom
Yoo. My dude. Fuck Ajax. Get your hands on Barkeeper. That stuff had my bathroom looking like I first moved in. I'm never going back.
Glass's microphone is not always on. It's only in listen mode when the screen is on. Your phone can be used to track your location anyway (thanks to the nice GPS+GLONASS chip inside), can probably hear everything you're saying while it's in your pocket, and can probably see roughly what you're seeing it when it's in your hand.
I hear this product makes an excellent material for a hat:
http://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-Pack/dp/B001R2NM5U/
Same thing. All a Magic Eraser is is a melamine sponge, and one has a significant name brand upcharge. I have a bag of 100 of them in my closet I got for $6.63 or so. Arrived via the slow boat but they are perfect.
Edit: The ones I got are $8.99 now. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XC32NMK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Still a good price on 100.
>which you can find dirt dirt DIRT cheap online.
Wow you weren't kidding, $9 for 100, holy shit
Pledge floor wax, under plastic wineglasses from Walmart to keep the dust out while drying.
Put the pledge into a dropper bottle, you can apply a drop directly to the area you want to work with and push around with a brush. Because it takes a few minutes to dry, it self levels out the brush strokes, but you should cover it while drying to keep clean of dust and hair.
Use as protective layer, mix with paint as glaze, apply before doing chipping, or seal whole mini and then airbrush, because overspray is much easier to remove from clear coat than from paint.
Thin coats, and try to leave surface level while it dries, since it dries slower than other products, you don't want it sliding down hill.
Frankly it has so many uses I'm still exploring.
Use anywhere you would use lahmian medium, and most places you would use ardcoat. It's about seventy times cheaper, so you can afford to experiment.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_xSd8BbJQS4J8Q
Lodge Cast Iron Skillets are great but you have to make sure you clean them immediately afterwards.
For something more practical (and cheap), take a look at these guys (depending on what size you are looking for. You can sautee something, throw it in the oven, and when they start to get ugly, take some Bar Keepers Friend and go at it. It will look good as new in no time. P.S., please don't pay $5 for BKF, it is at your grocery store for only a dollar or two.
Edit: Here is a test of this one vs. the expensive All Clad version.
Scrub with Barkeepers Friend http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V72992/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
This is the test I used:
3M LeadCheck Swabs, 8-Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fynyCbE7MCHC7
It's not the flame, it's the smell from the fluid. If you let the flame burn for a few seconds and burn off any excess fuel in the wick before lighting the cigar and don't touch the flame to the cigar it's fine.
...Or you could just get a Zippo Blu or a butane insert
I've traveled with this setup for years on the road and it has yet to let me down. It makes a better cup of coffee than you get in most speciality shops.
Just found this 100 pack for $8.99.
And the customer questions are pretty great too.
I believe its going by "Pledge Floor Gloss" now. Pledge 11182 Revive It Floor Gloss, 27 Ounce, Clear Transparent Liquid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mdqtDbTEVY54R
Just get one of these. It's way less complicated and definitely cheaper
Here's an amazon link to the floor polish you're looking for. It's the same stuff, they just took the "future" off the packaging.
Depends. I had a bubbler that didn't matter how many times I salted, boiled, iso'd, or any of the other normal tricks it would not get clean. At least not clean enough to have all traces removed visibly (it was a hand me down and really gross). I ended up buying this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Took 2 days of sitting and the glass was perfect.
you can get a pack of 100 for $8
something like this
I don't know if this can be saved, but a sweater pill remover should help.
https://www.amazon.com/Remington-FuzzAway-Battery-Operated-Sweater/dp/B0034BV6KA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_2
I bought some Cyber Clean last week and hadn't thought to use it on my keyboard yet.
So here's an album depicting its effectiveness.
http://www.amazon.com/Rolling-Papers-Filter-Booklets-Standard/dp/B005JFFY02
I went through this with my son around one as well, For 6 months his levels where elevated.
Call your doctor and ask who they would recommend you speak to about lead being in the home. My doctor sent me to my local county health authority. They came out and inspected my house from the floor up. We discovered our issue was an old built in cabinet and had it removed. Other options are avail even though.
They explained that you can buy lead test sticksamazon carries them as well as most hardware stores and can test the house yourself. You will want to start in areas your toddler frequents, and start low aka their level. Document all areas that pop positive for lead.
I've got an S-Filter by Kaffeologie, and I love it. Compared to the paper filters, you will get more oils in your brew, which I prefer. Definitely worth the $12.
https://www.amazon.com/Shittens-Disposable-Mitten-shaped-Moist-Wipes/dp/B00F547P6S
You’re welcome
Pipe tool
Long roach clip made of stainless steel
Cigar lighter to light those j's and b's on windy days
Glass jar to keep smell down
Rolling tray
Pledge floor polish https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1505500753&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+multi+surface+finish
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Y54nqFbXz4o
Worked great on the loose ankle of my Mezco Commander Rogers 👍
There are long handled squeegees that are perfect for getting dog and cat hair off of fabric surfaces and out of carpetFURemover
They make these fantastic silicone brushes that remove pet hair from upholstery and clothes! And brooms, too! Helps keep my vacuum from exploding.
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
barkeepers friend is a handy stainless steel polish
These things are your new best friend.
Ceramic you say? Get some barkeeper's friend and clean that nasty bowl.
Bar Keepers Friend Works awesome on porcelain and metals for removing rust and discoloration. I use it on any stubborn stains. Best way to clean burnt stainless steel pains and bring them back to new.
In case you run out
One of these OP
you can indeed https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1466915830&sr=8-3&keywords=Melamine+foam
If you have a crock pot you can buy a digital thermostat controller to use with it and turn it into a sous vide machine. Basically you fill up the crock pot with water, the device has a little probe you put in the water, and you plug the crock pot into this device, and the device into the wall. You set the temperature and it just switches the crock pot on and off based on the temperature you set. Since crock pots heat up from all directions the temperature stays pretty consistent throughout.
I also have used Ziploc vacuum pump bags with pretty good success. They do leak out some air over the long-term so they don't work as well for freezing things for a long time (still works pretty good though) but they work perfectly fine for sous vide in my experience. Less than $100 investment for the temperature controller, the hand pump and a bunch of extra bags.
Agreed, it's your business. She can hire her own inspection done if she wants.
That being said, maybe not a terrible idea to purchase a lead detection kit to make sure there's no lead - for your own peace of mind if nothing else. Lead chips taste sweet so young children really will eat them.
It's also not unusual especially for first time moms to overworry about their kids. If you think she's a good tenant and want to keep her I'm sure there are some basic reassurances you can provide. If not, I agree with u/NetWareHead that you maybe just don't renew the lease.
Good luck!
Geta zippo body. Vector makes refillable butane inserts. No lighter fluid taste or smell, no lighter fluid evaporating and leaveing you flameless. They make jet torch insert single an double flame , soft flame like a bic, and a side lighting pipe lighter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5RTszbKV09T9B
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IRLBUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QUTszb1SPMKM9
Edit.
Plus getting antique zippos lighters at thrift shop are cheaper than new ones usally.
New source of filter tips? Access Granted.
Unless you know absolutely that the balls have no lead in the plastic, which is all too common, I would get a lead test for every differently colored ball. Because sometimes lead is one color, and not another. One can never be too careful.
I use Aeropress daily. Here's what I've come up with as the most consistent. (Not sure what kind of coffee you enjoy; I almost exclusively drink Ethiopian Yirgacheffe -- may make a difference)
Filter: I recommend a metal filter, particularly this one. Vastly improved flavor and mouth feel while being easier to plunge.
Weights: 300g water to 18g coffee.
Grind: ~10 (pretty fine) on a Breville Smart Grinder.
Temp: 205F
Use "inverted Aeropress method" with stopper at the 1 position to start. Fill water to the 2 position and allow 45 second bloom with n initial 10 seconds of stirring. Pour water up to the 4 position and finish with a nice and slow 30 second plunge.
Damn tasty, every time.
Flower can definitely go bad. Usually caused by a few things.
The producer not curing the flower properly and leave too much moister in the flower so when it’s packed in an air tight jar it has nowhere to go and causes the flower to mold which will look like tiny white spider webs either on or when you crack the flower open or create anaerobic bacteria... get a jewelry loop and check for mold though noticeable by eye when bad
You could try keeping the jar open and on it side for an hour in the morning and evening. For a week or so this normally done in the curing process to stop this from happening but if it smells bad it probably will always be bad...
I would highly recommend getting boveda packs this helps keep the humidity constant in the jar leasing the chance it will go bad
You should get get Future Floor polish (this is the current version) and apply it according to these instructions.
It doesn't damage the plastic, it's reversible and one bottle is enough for the rest of your life.
Can take up to a day to dry, though.
Bar keeper's friend mate
Another endorsement for Barkeeper's Friend right here!
Edit: If you don't have some, get some.
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Get a cigarette roller, braj
https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-500/dp/B001R2NM5U
Get these They are the same thing as magic erasers except they aren't crazy expensive.
With a budget of $400, I'd start with a small Alpicool for around $200. That's a good price on those, and they sip around 1/2 amp/hour@12v, meaning you'll need at least 36Ah of battery (.5Ax24hx3d).
Bump to 50Ah of usable power, for some wiggle room, and you can pick up something like this for $170.
The only other thing you'll need is wiring. A kit like this has most of what you need, toss in a cheap manual isolator to keep it from draining your starter battery, and you're left with a few crimp connectors and maybe a socket (might as well get a kinda-nice one).
That puts you $10 over-budget, but it'll do everything you asked for and more, and be a nice little setup to expand someday with solar or inverter or whatever. If you can score a cheaper second-hand battery initially, that'll help budget-wise, but I wouldn't bother skimping on anything else except maybe the 12v socket. The one I linked is just a nice feature to have USB and volt meter built-in, so you can reduce cord/adapter clutter if you like, and have an idea where you're at on power reserves, monitoring it manually. Downgrading that to a simple, "dumb" socket would put you within the $400 budget.
I think you need to go back and consider how long you are wanting to stay in place should you need to generate your own power and triage your power consumption needs in order to carefully map out a solar/battery system. For instance, I have a 3200 watt inverter generator. I plan on keeping enough fuel to run it for a week at most should I need to provide my own power. Beyond that I've planned to leave the area for other areas where there are public services. If shit really hits the fan and there is no where for me to go, then I still see little point in stockpiling resources beyond a few days since I won't be able to defend it from my surrounding neighbors. Your neighbors aren't going to lay down and die while you ride out the apocalypse in relative comfort. A few days of in place resources and then I'm going to be mobile and use some of the survival skills I've developed over the years to try and make it.
You really haven't given any well defined power needs, so we'll just go from what you've said and make certain assumption in this exercise that illustrates how expensive power storage can get.
Each device you want to power will document its wattage ratings. Add them up. Watts = Volts Amps. Once you know how many watts you need to run everything, now you can start figuring out how large of a solar panel array you need as well as the size of the battery array you'll need to be able to power everything at night.
I may be wrong going forward, but this is how I understand it:
Here's a wattage chart.. You'll need to refer to the equipment you want to power to find their specifics, but this will put you in the ball park.
You'll notice "running" wattage and "surge" wattage. You need to be able to accommodate the surge wattage.
Just from what you mentioned, fridge, heater, microwave, you're going to need 5,000 watts to run all three at the same time. 5,000W = 120V 42A. But that's AC power. You need to work with DC power for the solar panels and batteries. Those are going to run at 12 volts. So now you need 417 amps to get 5000 watts from 12 volts.
Here's a 100 amp hour 12v deep cycle lead acid battery for $170. I'm not endorsing it, just using it as an example. u/noone512 noted a Walmart brand 100ah 12v deep cycle for $85ish. I'm going off the price of the battery I can find a link for.
You're going to need 5 of these batteries wired in parallel to get 417 amps. That's $850. It'll run all 3 appliances for 1 hour. If you want to run your appliances for the 12ish hours a day the solar panels aren't working well enough then you'll need 51 batteries wired in parallel. That's $8,670.
But wait! There's more! You can't completely drain your battery array because it'll shorten the life of it. I believe the rule of thumb is drain your batteries no more than 50%. Now you need twice the amperage. You now need 102 batteries at a cost of $17,340.
That's just the batteries which does not include taxes, shipping, electrical wiring, inverters, other components, safety devices, the solar panels, storage building, professional installation, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Fuzz-Away-Fabric-Shaver-RTFS-2/dp/B0034BV6KA
This is actually designed to remove pilling. Just lightly rub it over the pilled areas - don't push down hard on the fabric while using it.
vinegar solution will do the trick, guaranteed, along with some patience, elbow grease, and a few microfiber cloths.
if you haven't cleaned them in a while, get some leather honey and work that in after cleaning them thoroughly. let them rest for 24-48h and you'll be blown away with the end result.
For anyone looking for the most affordable vacuum sealing option, the Ziploc Vacuum Starter Kit is a handheld pump selling for under
$10$5 on Amazon. Works great and the replacement bags are as cheap and easy to find on Amazon (quart is sandwich baggy sized, perfect for panties. gallon is great for shirts and large items).You can buy lead test kits: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BK15PU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - so far all the tableware I've bought from taobao is safe (nothing from this list though).
there's really no way to know without a lead tester or you can just rub it off with nail polish remover and not try to figure out if it's lead.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1500494688&sr=1-4&keywords=lead+test
to be honest, though it's not going to kill you. i live in america and when i shoot guns i get lead dust in my lungs, much more dangerous than lead paint: http://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2017/05/10/527648768/lead-dust-from-firearms-can-pose-a-silent-health-risk
No, not that I know of. The lighter fluid evaporates away so if you keep it in a tight pants pocket it might last a bit longer.
And then there’s this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_8HI3CbNN6BF3M
It's not espresso, but it's not just like a regular filtered ("drip") coffee either, because like espresso it's brewed under pressure (though much less than an espresso). ~7g of coffee makes about 90-120mL of strong coffee in an Aeropress (espresso would be around 30mL, drip coffee would be around 200-250mL in Germany/US).
If you use a permanent metal mesh filter instead of the usual paper disc filters, the flavor gets even closer to espresso because more fines and oils end up in the cup.
A shitten perhaps?
No need for toilet paper when you carry around some of these.
Right here.
Time to rip down all my walls, floor and ceiling to install some metal sheeting. The most annoying part is going to be the doors for sure... But the plus is that if an EMP ever hits, all my stuff will be safe.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001R2NM5U/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LURISY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PetLub0DZ8DQ1
Here it is for anyone interested. Don't know why I felt obligated, I'm baked. Solid [7] and climbing.
well, the most important part of this is how thin do you want your paints to be? Most advice on the internet says to aim for "milky" consistency. This results in the paint being just thin enough that it takes multiple coats to apply a color, but not so thin that it just runs off of the model. Something you could do to acquaint yourself with the way this looks is to buy a small bottle of 2% milk, pour it into a plastic cup and use your paintbrush to "paint" it up the sides of the cup. This should give you an idea of what your final goal could be.
As for materials to thin paint with, you can use several different products:
As you may have noticed, water is a fairly consistent theme. I've hear that you can also use windex + water, but that seems like a waste of a good bottle of windex ;)
Another option, if you are finding it hard to consistently thin the paints, is to use a wet palette. If you keep the wet palette fairly full with water, it will automatically thin down the paint to a certain degree, after which you can add mediums or more water to push it further. It also has the added benefit of keeping the paints wet for an extended period of time. Here is a guide for making your own wet palette to try out: http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/Zpt5gLOoldY1
We have a Dyson DC41 and it does a good job of keeping the carpet clean of my long, ever shedding hair, plus the two dogs and the cat.
Another, cheaper option is to buy a rubber broom and run it back and forth along the carpet. The hair sticks to the rubber bristles and the come up to the top. Depending on how much hair you have in the carpet, the broom will roll it into small ropes that you can then vacuum up.
We've tried both and found that the dyson gets out the same amount of hair as the broom (on our carpets), but keep the broom around for cleaning out the cars.
No experience per se, but I have used a rubber tined "rake" called the Fur Remover on lower pile carpet before with good results.
https://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-FURemover-Squeegee-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA
The warped bottom you can't really fix. If you have a gas stove, it probably won't matter much, but it's annoying for sure. The other stuff... you can try some bar keeper's friend, or you can try the boiled salt water again... assuming you actually pay attention to it. What you're doing is basically deglazing the pan. I typically do that every time I cook, makes cleanup a breeze and sometimes is great for an awesome pan sauce.
Use bar keeper's friend. It will clean it up quick and easily with just a bit of scrubbing.
I used a Dremel rotary tool with one of these buffing wheel attachments and some Barkeeper's Friend mixed with a little water to form a paste. I just used a low speed and tried to be patient. The crystal is pretty tough but I did manage to get one really fine scratch (barely noticeable) so be careful.
Basic info:
Ask your friend if they can hook you up with the person they buy from. The quantities you can buy from smallest to largest: 1/8th, 1/4th, 1/2, 1 ounce. Some dealers will sell by the gram, too, but I haven't bought from anybody who deals in amounts that small in a long time. In a lot of cases your friend will end up becoming your middle man because a lot of dealers only like to do business with people they know they can trust. I've been smoking regularly for about 4 years now and I've only ever dealt with one dealer directly because he was dating my friend.
If you still live with your parents a pipe will probably be the easiest vessel to smoke out of. They are easy to conceal, but more effective than joints or blunts. Hit up any local smoke shop or head shop, but there is a little bit of etiquette required at these places. Never refer to what you're buying as a bowl or a bong (if that's what you're going for). Call it a pipe or a water pipe and do not mention marijuana at all. They know what it's for, but they won't say it either. I have seen kids get kicked out of headshops on the spot for making this mistake. If it is a legit shop they can't sell to you if you give them the impression that you are going to use their items for illegal things. Law enforcement routinely tests these places to make sure they aren't violating any laws.
Learning how to roll is a great skill, but not everybody is good at it. I personally suck at rolling so I bought a cigarette roller and it gets the job done.
Practice is the only way to get good. I would recommend picking up a rolling machine such as this one. Saves a ton of time and headache.
Hey buddy. Im not the guy to talk to about THC levels and all that. But the prerolls are kinda expensive. If u were gonna use those regularly I recommend hopping on amazon and getting the RAW joint roller for 10$. It works well and will save u money in the long run
https://www.amazon.ca/RAW-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539797371&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=raw+rolling+machine&dpPl=1&dpID=41nISmL1jVL&ref=plSrch
This is the shit you need:
http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY
It's 100% natural, and it's reusable for a long time.
Pour it in, wait an hour, pour it back into the bottle and rinse. It dissolves everything.
Edit: The Amazon reviews speak for themselves.
https://www.amazon.com/Vertigo-Cyclone-Triple-Lighter-Charcoal/dp/B00LJVW0FW/
I use a pretty cheap tri flame butane torch lighter I found on Amazon. Works really well regardless of weather.
Vertigo by Lotus Cyclone Triple Torch Cigar Lighter Charcoal 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJVW0FW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Edit: lol I think this might be exactly what you have.
Lets do a quick run through so you can compare:
The Yeti 1250 is 12v 100ah and 1200 watts for $1250. It has 3 USB and 3 standard plugs + other ins and outs in addition to a solar charger.
A 12v 100ah deep cycle battery off amazon is $159. You would need a charger unit ($50 on amazon) in addition to some basic electrical wiring ($20-50). Then you would need an inverter (this one is $65 w/ three plug ins and two usb inputs) for 1000 watts. Last you would need to invest in a solar charger unit (often comes with solar panel kits and those can run around $30. So probably close to $350-400
So then however you want to store these (plywood box construction and a little DIY elbow grease) you can build essentially the same unit for about 1/4 the cost.
https://www.amazon.com/ERAYAK-Inverter-Alligator-Refrigerator-Cooler-8099U/dp/B019PXILXA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1482364654&sr=8-17&keywords=12v+inverter
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482364350&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+100+ah+deep+cycle+battery
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Regulator-Intelligent-Display-12V-24V/dp/B018ICLC3K/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1482364823&sr=1-4&keywords=solar+charge+controller
Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket - $8.99
Blue Sea Systems m-Series Battery Switch - $34.62
Smartlive LED String lights DC 12V 10m 33feet 100 LEDS,Warm White - $9.99
DROK Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 100A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter - $17.89
ISWEES Dual USB Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Splitter 12V Car Charger - $11.89
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover - $37.24
BEP Digital Voltage Sensing Relay (DVSR) 12/24V - $78.46
BESTEK 400W Power Inverter DC 12V to AC 110V Car Adapter with 5A 4 USB Charging Ports -$35.99
UB121000 12V AGM Battery 100AH - $125.21 + $34.69 Shipping = $159.90
Dude, yes. If it's anything like the rubbery white caps on my converse, Magic Eraser (and honestly, the cheap knock off's too) works a charm!
pro tip: get a magic eraser or 100 generic ones for the same price for the coffee stain. also stop pouring coffee down your walls
Try a lint shaver.
https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Fuzz-Away-Fabric-Shaver-RTFS-2/dp/B0034BV6KA
You can order this from Amazon. Or you can go to Walmart and buy this. I think a lint roller might do the job as well.
Cleaning putty
https://www.amazon.ca/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
Just my $0.02 after years of fiddling with electronics and various gadgets. This goes for a lot of cleaning questions and tips here.
DON'T use a toothpick or compressed air unless there is a route/path of egress.
Sure, if you're careful you may be able to brush out some of the dust and grime, but forcibly doing so (using a toothpick or compressed air) is also very likely to push dust and dirt into areas where you really don't want it.
Unless you've disassembled your device and are cleaning it from the inside out, you are pushing junk into the device.
If you have some loose-ish stuff that won't come out by gently tapping the device face-down against your palm, for example, then you can try a soft-bristle brush. Again, though, this introduces a force that can push debris into the device.
You can try something called Cyber Clean , which is a putty that is specifically meant to lift stuff off/out of surfaces and crevices.
For prevention, the best option is probably a case (that wraps around/covers the gap. This will still introduce a little 'nook' between the front panel and the front edge of the case, but this is much easier to clean. Just take off the case and wipe away the 'frame' of grime left behind. Make sure not to wipe it over the gap between the front panel and the phone body, though.
Leather needs to be moisturized, otherwise it will crack and ruin. I can't imagine your bag will last longer than 10 years in the Saudi desert.
I use this on my shoes, daresay you can probably use something similar (leather conditioner) on your bag. I use a spongey type of material to apply it, works surprisingly well.
This stuff is highly rated on Amazon, and according to their website:
>Leather Honey is free of animal products, silicone and solvents as well.
I really need to write up a blog post about this, but I have a super easy way to store hops vacuum sealed. This short of it is:
Put the hops in the jar, attach the lid and jar sealer, hold the hand pump over the sealer hole, and pump for about 15 seconds. The jar should now have an air-tight seal, just toss it in the freezer and enjoy fresh hops year 'round. 1 quart holds ~0.5 lbs of pellet hops.
The benefit of this method is that you don't have to shell out ~$100+ for a FoodSaver + attachments. If you already have mason jars you'll only need the hand pump and attachment, which will run you ~$15.
I use this combo to make vacuum sealed jars.
https://www.target.com/p/ball-12ct-wide-mouth-pint-jars/-/A-50624128
https://www.amazon.com/FoodSaver-T03-0023-01-Wide-Mouth-Jar-Sealer/dp/B00005TN7H/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1498677791&sr=8-12&keywords=wide+mouth
https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1498677774&sr=8-1&keywords=ziploc+pump
Index cards are still bleached and covered in ink. Here's some real, safe crutches that are probably cheaper than your index cards and will also last forever. I don't get why people go through so much trouble to replace something that costs 1 penny per use and can effect our health.
People would melt lead ingots in them and use the melted lead to make fishing weights or bullets, most commonly. It's not terribly common, but it definitely happened and is possible. [This] (https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU) is one of the better ways to check if your pan is contaminated- ideally when restoring and it's stripped down to bare iron.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Sawabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543161919&sr=8-3&keywords=lead+test+kit
knowing china, yeah, i bet many parts (hopefully just internal) have lead dust.
Can always buy a test kit and see what it comes up with. For here is what I found on Amazon, comes with 8 tests. Probably not a bad idea to have around if you are into buying vintage cast iron.
3M LeadCheck Swabs, 8-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q7FWBbMX65CXD
If you want pourover (though you specified you're not crazy about it), go with the Hario V-60 ceramic. Pick up one of these for expert level pouring. I also agree that the aeropress is another great (and easy-to-clean) option for a one-cup operation. For improved flavor, there is a reusable stainless filter that allows more oils through (versus paper filters). You can also pour instant coffee directly into your mouth. You're welcome.
Find some Grunge Off. Not only can you re-use the stuff, but it's extremely effective. I've cleaned my pieces with the same bottle multiple times. The Grunge Off is motor-oil black now, but it still does the trick!
I usually pour it through a fine metal strainer to get all the resin out while returning it to the bottle.
edit: Here's a link
Here's what I use
https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Fuzz-Away-Fabric-Shaver-RTFS-2/dp/B0034BV6KA
Maybe a [fabric shaver] (https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Battery-Operated-Fabric-Shaver/dp/B0034BV6KA)?
I have no idea, but this is the one that I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Fuzz-Away-Fabric-Shaver-RTFS-2/dp/B0034BV6KA/ref=sr_1_37?keywords=sweater+shaver&qid=1563493148&s=gateway&sr=8-37
I apparently purchased it in 2013 and haven't had any problems with it.
Use the first method. The second (like a sweater/fabric shaver) works best on pilling, not pulls in fabric.
Can't tell what kind of fabric that is, but if the fabric is smooth (like a typical cotton t-shirt), try a Fabric Defuzzer. I used it to remove those annoying white piles (pills?). Used on my gf's bra. While she's wearing it.
Jk about the last part.
http://www.amazon.com/Remington-Battery-Operated-Fabric-Shaver/dp/B0034BV6KA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420592982&sr=8-2&keywords=fabric+defuzzer
Cyber Clean
It's amazing! Your keyboard is fresh and not at all disgusting ever, I wouldn't want to go without it \^\^
I know it's not a LPT solution... but there's this thing called Cyber Clean
And it is freaking amazing. You should check it out.
this is what most people i know use: raw paper filters (raw is the brand)
the picture above is part of the zig zag papers booklet flap, it's the og way, it's actually a great theme of this picture; cannabis picked apart by fingers, ripped out flap from the same packaging as your paper that i assume will be hand rolled. a great cowboy/down to earth feel
http://i.imgur.com/HMdRcFX.png - it's probably this part of the booklet
I assume he means tips or a crutch not an actual cigarette style filter :)
Isn't it just a regular Zippo with a 13 dollar insert?. Or do you mean you'd been looking for that particular design?
I found a thing
Unfortunately shittens are a real product as funny as the word is
For best maintenance of cannabis moisture (think cigar humidor) get a glass Mason jar and throw a 62% RH Boveda pack in there and your buds well stay fresh for months. The packs are like $10 for 12 and they last a long time so it's a no-brainer purchase. They are two-way humidity control, so they will both absorb moisture to dry out buds that are too wet (to a certain degree) and release moisture to hydrate dried out buds.
[edit]
Amazon link to 12x 62% Boveda Packs with Prime, $13.49
Amazon link to 10x 62% Boveda Packs with free regular shipping, $8.99
Seriously, buy them if you like fresh cannabis, they're so cheap and so effective you'll wonder why you didn't use them before.
Some cigar/smoke shops and most Headshops have them. I usually add a few to my order when i get some smoking accessories. For example Amazon
Recommended pack size to weed:
Boveda 4 gram: 7-14 grams of medicine.
Boveda 8 gram: 14-28 grams of medicine.
Edit: When you are looking online you might see they are available in various humidity levels (for different stuff) and 62% is used for weed.
Use these in your mason jar, Boveda 62 best way to keep your weed at the right humidity level.
I mean... 'technically that's not following the letter of the law.
The reality however is that no cop is going to know the difference. If you have a jar with a 2018 date on it, who is that cop to tell you that you're not allowed to smoke year old bud? It's not like the cop is going to sniff your jar labeled as Kush IV and go
> Whoa whoa hold up here champ, this jar says Kush IV but it smells more like Cannatonic, what kind of stunt are you pulling here little man?
He's going to look at the jar, look at your ID and send you on your way.
As for the drying out issue? I'd highly recommend investing in some Boveda's. I'm personally a fan of the 62% ones but the 58% ones work good as well. But they'll keep your bud from drying out for months. They'll also keep it from getting too humid during the summer months. You just drop one in your mason jar (or more really if you want) and it'll maintain the proper rH for you at all times.
They carry them in all sorts of sizes but the 4g or 8g ones are going to be the best for your home use. I personally like the 8g ones simply because they're going to typically last a little bit longer.
Boveda makes humidipaks that a lot of ents use to keep their stash fresh. I highly recommend it, much more efficient than doing something weird like using a chunk of lettuce or an orange peel. Glass jars should be enough for storage but there are some more expensive containers specifically for cannabis, but I've never tried one because my mason jars work fine for me.
Wow I love the look of that kit!!! I'll tell you right now, Pledge clear will be your best friend for removing any stress marks or scratches from removing/sanding nubs
http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451352679&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+clear#Ask
As far as clean decal work goes, make sure to clean the surface of the model with a degreaser before applying the decal. Then, after you cut out the decal and soak it, take it out of the water, still on the paper, and slide it straight on to the model.
27oz Pledge Futureshine
Evriholder Sw-250I-Amz-6, Furemover Pet Hair Removal Broom with Squeegee & Telescoping Handle That Extends from 3-5', Black & Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oSmtDbHNQE8KT
Or something similar. Works really well!
Real talk, I've been using some weird rubber pet hair broom (like this thing) for the last 5 or 6 years. It's far and away the best snow removal tool i've ever used. I can easily reach every part of the various cars/ trucks I've used it on. It's like a super soft rubber so it's basically impossible to scratch anything and it leaves everything squeaky clean/dry and snow doesn't get stuck in the bristles so you can clear like a foot of snow off your entire car without ever having to mess with it.
I still have a normal ice scraper/brush thing that i keep in my car for actual ice though.
This is the best stuff IMO. Works on almost any set-in-stain.
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
Bar Keepers Friend.
I've heard really good things about Bar Keeper's Friend for cleaning stainless steel.
You can pour a layer of vinegar in the bottom of a pan and heat it up. Once it gets hot, turn it off and let it sit for 15 minutes, then scrub like crazy. It removes most spots.
Try this stuff....Barkeeper's Friend. It will get rid of a lot of that deposit stuff. It's an acid/cleaner...you make a paste out of it with a little water, rub it in for a minute or two and then...well let's just say that I've seen it work miracles. Better than any other normal cleaner I've used (and I've tried them all). It's fine for tiles too. Try it before you try anything else.
$0-$5
Bar Keepers Friend - This stuff is magic for cleaning. It gets rid of all kinds of stains on tile or porcelain and makes sinks look awesome.
$5-$10
Magic Erasers - These are obviously sorcery
$10-$20
Power Squid - Helps deal with the situation around my computer and tv.
$20-$50
14-Piece Knife Set - Not a great knife set, but better than a drawer of miscellaneous knives, which is what I have now! Decent reviews, too.
I had the same problem until I discovered this. I know I know...I'm a disgrace to the joint rolling world...but seriously, works like a charm and you end up having perfectly rolled joints to enjoy! And for under $5, you can't beat it.
> You do realize that plastic is not only made from oil, most forms of plastic are carginogenic, there is an entire labeling system that tells whether or not plastic is safe to be used for food storage or not, is safe to hold liquids or not, is safe to be microwavable or not, and many other things?
Lots of different kinds of medicines are also made from oil. Crude oil as a feedstock means nothing in this context. It simply is the source from which the monomers are derived from. Go find out for yourself what fractional distillation is. Different grades of fractions are used for different applications as well; analytical grade hexane will be as pure as you can get it to be, as opposed to something like technical grade.
The carcinogens associated with plastics are more often than not the plasticisers used in managing the physical properties of these materials. Carcinogenic behaviour of these plasticisers is only in the context of chronic exposure (for commonly used ones) to significant amounts. Beyond that, significant absorption through skin is highly improbable.
Here are some listings for aluminium foil for you to make your protective hat.
https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-500/dp/B001R2NM5U
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/aluminum-foil
https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-500/dp/B001R2NM5U
You could always try a joint rolling machine and see if you like that. Im so bad at rolling, but using the machine works like a charm I find. An extra $2-3 just for them to roll it for you is quite steep when you think about it, and the machine pays for itself after 4 uses at that rate.
https://www.amazon.ca/RAW-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
I use one of those RAW Rolling Machines as I very rarely smoke joints but sometimes they're necessary for parties or events. My hand rolling technique is trash and they come out looking like a joint from the 70's so this setup is pretty great for uniform size and shape results.
My cop out suggestion is to get a joint roller on amazon. They take a little trial and error (the first time i used it [4] i made it explode and my weed got all over me) but once you get it right it makes perfect
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1h1sybB0M7NEH
http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY
This shit works like a charm, and its reusable!
Vertigo by Lotus Cyclone Triple Torch Cigar Lighter Charcoal 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJVW0FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hGg2DbMDNSQT3
https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK
Buy these instead
Just an FYI-Mr. Clean Magic Erasers are just a fancy name for melamine sponges...just buy these and save a ton!!
Mister Clean Magic Erasers might work. Or just the generic https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK
Just be sure to go easy on the area around the ring or you'll take the paint off.
If you like them here's the next tip. Just buy Melamine sponges in bulk.
https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK
THIS.
Magic Erasers are gods gift to sneaker heads everywhere.
Also, don't buy name brand Magic Erasers.
Generic Melamine board can be purchased wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy cheaper.
Amazon has 100pcs for <$7. The name brand ones don't break down as fast, but at this price point, you could use them once and throw them away and still spend less than the name brand ones.
Melamine sponges have a very fine abrasive quality which is perfect for this application. Mr. Clean Magic Erasers are just melamine sponges impregnated with a detergent.
Just a generic melamine sponge with rubbing alcohol should work really well.
Better yet, buy them in bulk on amazon Baoer 100Pcs/lot Eraser Magic Melamine Cleaning Sponge 10x6x2CM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC32NMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_V3TOXYIeXJSw1 they are way cheaper
Baoer 100Pcs/lot Eraser Magic Melamine Cleaning Sponge 10x6x2CM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XC32NMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qKELBb8FNBGZG
https://www.amazon.ca/100Pcs-CLEANER-MELAMINE-CLEANING-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK
Generic version for you.
https://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY
You need to get your hands on a sweater shaver. A buddy of mine fixed the suede inserts on his seats that looked just like this. Then you can use a suede brush to make it look like new.
I use the RAW tips. You can get 500 of them for a few bucks
You might want to look into these.
If you're looking for a 4 piece grinder with a kief catch... Make sure you don't say kief. Proper term is pollen. Made that mistake once lol. Also, if you have the money, I'd grab a small spoon pipe. See if they have filter tips (example), would be better than card stock.
https://www.amazon.com.mx/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485809462&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=LeadCheck
I recently bought this set on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BK15PU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I don't know if anyone has a better suggestion. It's expensive, but I figured it was important enough to do right.
Vector Thunderbird Butane Torch Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_s1ugzbC9G3GBZ
Here's the link
Also, I dont know how finicky these are with types of butane. A guy on r/cigars mentioned that he had been smoking cigars for 25 years and had tried all sorts of butane. He uses Newport Butane It's cheaper to buy this stuff 2-4 cans at a time. Usually the more you order (at least on amazon) the better the deal. Pure butane wont clog the lighter like some cheaper butane can.
And please search youtube for how to properly fill and un-fill butane lighters.
Lastly a tip I found on the packaging before throwing it away: Do not press the ignition switch hard and fast, just gradually push it. I was having to press the button 1-2 times to get it to start but since Ive started pressing it softer, it lights on the first shot each time. The best way I can think to explain it is to press it as if you were really tired and relaxed. You'll hear the gas release about 1/8 of a second little before the button clicks.
Also the flame is adjustable. The pic shows a medium flame.
You can get a torch insert for your Zippo. I've been thinking of one since I have a cool Zippo cover but I haven't done much research yet to see if they work well, here is one on Amazon
Holy crap, I didn't know they had metal filters! That's amazing!
For those that are wondering, this one and this one are the two highest reviews that I've found.
I'll be picking one of these up as soon as possible, though I've always managed to get good extractions out of my Aeropress following this guide minus the swirling at the end, and it always works out pretty great. It's true though, the paper feels like it detracts from the overall body / "creaminess" of the cup, compared to other methods I've tried.
Not for long, though. =)
The aforementioned Amazon Reviews
Gotta keep it in airtight containers and monitor the humidity. I use mason jars with Boveda packs to keep them at 62% humidity.
https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-62-Percent-2-Way-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00JV27MF4&pd_rd_r=581d512c-b6cc-11e8-b96a-75051c3f57a5&pd_rd_w=UsTkO&pd_rd_wg=U59ij&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3f9889ac-6c45-46e8-b515-3af650557207&pf_rd_r=EE28A5YWKD7BGG9BJJMA&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&refRID=EE28A5YWKD7BGG9BJJMA&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-62-Percent-2-Way-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Boveda&qid=1571790006&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Jars-3-Pack-Large-Ultraviolet/dp/B00UY9TH2O/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=infinity+jars&qid=1571790072&sr=8-9
\^ Should help with keeping your herb fresh at least.
Here ya go: Veanic 4-Pack Mini Digital... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNMKYCZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And the 62% packs: Boveda 62-Percent RH 2-Way... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JV27MF4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The vertigos. 2 for $17 on Amazon. Good price point and very dependable. Had mine for over 2 years now. The only downside I found is that sometimes the little screw on some of them comes loose between the top and the tank. Easy to tighten back up with a small screwdriver like one that comes in those eye glass repair kits.
https://www.amazon.com/Vertigo-Cyclone-Triple-Lighter-Charcoal/dp/B00LJVW0FW
I prefer washes and usually use Vallejo washes. Usually Vallejo oil. If you want to use gloss coat by had, check out this. It can be used both by hand and in an airbrush. It will give you a gloss coat to use with a wash. It is acryllic so don't scrub too hard but it can work very well.
I usually put the wash down and let it sit for a couple seconds then wipe away with my finger. If you want to get really fancy, wipe in the direction you would think rain would move the oil stain down the suit. Example 1 and Example 2. This will give you a pretty good looking run mark for the rain pushing oil or rust down from the site. Take into account where it may gather, then go from there. You can use water and a q-tip if you don't want to use your finger. If you scrub too hard with that it will also strip away the gloss coat. It does take a bit to do that though.
"Pledge" or "Future" refers to a certain brand of floor finish that (surprisingly) can be used as a gloss coat. This stuff.
For a guide:
http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide-top-coat-guide (it's a bit far down)
Bar Keepers Friend
I've done the same thing and no long term damaged. Clean with Bar Keepers Friend and it will be good to go for many more years.
http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
A few ways to get rid of this, a melamine sponge (the same thing that Magic erasers are made of), Bar Keepers friend, vinegar, baking soda, or anything that will scrub the hard water deposits from the ceramic.
Oxalic acid to the rescue.
RAW 79 mm 1 1/4 Hemp Plastic Cigarette Rolling Machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_edMOkcAuvMmwN
I can't roll for shit either. This makes it simple and cake to roll perfect every time. Look into vaporizers! It will change how you use weed for ever!
https://www.amazon.ca/Hemp-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
I dunno why anyone would do it the hard way when these things make it a snap. Takes me ~15 sec to roll a joint with mine.
edit: For the 2-5 times a year I want to waste pot by passing a joint around. My bubbler or vape are far more efficient...
Grab a papers roller box for him. They can be used one handed and are cheap.
Looks solid, nice job! I take the easy way out and just use a roller. RAW 79mm 1 1/4 Hemp Plastic Cigarette Rolling Machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ysbuyb9KZCJWV
Answers.
I mostly vape. I also have a bong. I don't usually smoke canons/cones. I can roll by hand, and do, if I'm rolling something big, but for just myself and my girlfriend, I just use the RAW 1 1/4 papers and roller with the cellulose filters.
I do not use tobacco. Only smoke straight green.
I do rehydrate now, only in the last few months. Never used to. Always just picked up and smoked right out of the bag.
It does make it easier for rolling a burns a bit smoother IMO.
With the roller, you pack the weed in with a filter, close it shut, spin it and it will compress the weed to the same side/shape as the filter. Once you've rolled and compressed, slide in the edge of a paper, start spinning the roller and it will pull the paper in and wrap it around the weed and filter. Open it and you have a perfect "cigarette" every time.
When rolling cone, larger joints, cross joints, etc... I like to use something to roll the paper with, a pen, a rolled up sheet of white paper, etc... To make it easier to hold the shape. Roll the paper around whatever I'm using and stick it to create a hollow cone/tube. Then I slip a paper filter/tip from the top, down to the bottom and let it unroll itself a bit to fit the open, then fill the weed in from the top. Different people have different methods. My "hand roll" method is a bit unorthodox and "assisted" but a lot easier than fumbling weed everywhere. If that's. It an option, just use the fold in a pack of paper to hold and fill with weed, then tuck/roll a corner and spin it between your fingers, similar to what the roller does.
I prefer to use the rollers though.
If you want to pick some up to try for yourself, here's the links:
The simple RAW 1 1/4roller:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cKLXCbHRW125D
With 1 1/4 papers: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0066WMVPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bMLXCbGKAAPZE
With the slim, cellulose filters (a lot easier on the lungs): https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XH6QGCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kNLXCb5DB9S6T
Grunge Off. Total game changer. Just soak it. No shaking. And you can reuse it multiple times.
Grunge Off Super Soaker Glass Pipe Cleaner, 16 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LURISY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zpQYBb1MEY6H0
Does that brand of floor polish work? I've always been told that the floor polish of choice for tightening joints and protecting/clarifying clear plastics is Pledge with Future Shine (which is now called Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss).
This is the stuff I use.
Yep! Also, for the record, Future floor polish is an amaaaaaaaaazing clear coat paint if you have an airbrush.
Here's the Future stuff via Amazon
Pledge future floor finish -- works great as a gloss coat (as well as for tightening loose joints). Just load it into your airbrush and spray. I've always wondered.. how did the first person figure that out?
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-11182-Future-Acrylic-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=pd_sim_hpc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0V7FEZ3QPJY6C4AH1R4S
This is what I have — not sure what the current equivalent is.
Maybe this: SC Johnson Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish
You've done a great job, especially considering it's your first and you chose an airplane - they're generally a little more difficult than armor. Is that a Typhoon? What's next in your build queue?
Like another commenter here said, before applying decals, put down a gloss coat. I've found that [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and this work well. After getting the decals on, then seal them in with another coat, and you can do your weathering without worrying about damaging them. You might want to use Microsol or Markfit when doing the decals - those solutions soften the decal and you don't get the "draping" effect over little surface details. Just be careful and test with the least important decals first, some kits have really thin decals that get destroyed. Other kits have thick decals that need repeated applications of Markfit strong to soften.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the correct floor wax. Got this, two weeks ago. And have been running it through my airbrush gloss coating everything with out issue.
Not completely zero waste but better than throwing out a bunch of disposable ones:
Reusable lint roller: https://www.amazon.com/iLifeTech-Reusable-Sticky-Cleaner-Remover/dp/B00WQY9PHW/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=sticky+buddy&amp;qid=1556762332&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-13
Pet hair removal:
https://www.amazon.com/Pet-Grooming-Effectively-Professional-Deshedding/dp/B01M5DS0Z7/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=pet+hair+brush&amp;qid=1556762376&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-8
https://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-FURemover-Squeegee-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=pet+hair+brush&amp;qid=1556762410&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-9
It is a never ending struggle when it comes to the hair. I have found a rubber bristle broom helps a lot though.
rubber broom I'm not kidding.
Bar Keeper's Friend--sprinkle some on, and then scrub with a damp sponge. It's magic, I tell you. Magic.
I'm not sure since I haven't compared them in so long. I would play it safe and assume about 1/3 or 1/4th as much to start if you're worried about damaging things. Another awesome one I found that gets rid of hard water stains and caramelized oil on pans is this. (It's about half that price in the store) and no added fragrances or other garbage.
I soak them in hot water and use some powdered Bar Keeper's Friend surface cleaner, it really seems to work better for me than Goo Gone and doesn't carry that cirtusy smell. It also does wonders for dirty stoves, sinks, and counter tops.
As nice as cast iron is, if you ever want to make any kind of pan sauce after you've cooked your protein that might involve wine or vinegar or lemon juice, you'd be out of luck. I'd go with a good, heavy traditional-finish skillet with some sort of clad construction for optimal even heating across the surface. As far as that sticking issue goes, you don't have to use as much oil as long as your skillet is already heated before you put any food in it. In some cases (not all), meat in a traditional finish skillet will stick at first but release from the surface right around the time it's supposed to be flipped or turned, which is perfectly normal anyway.
One of the other perks of a traditional finish skillet is fond -- a.k.a., the stuck-on brown bits left in the pan after you've cooked your food. All those brown (not blackened, that's too far) bits = flavorful awesomeness, and are key in making a good pan sauce to go with whatever you're making. Deglaze the pan with a bit of broth or wine or whatever and scrape up the brown bits with a wooden spoon, throw some butter and herbs in there, baby, you got a sauce goin'. (Plus, this makes cleaning the pan later a lot easier, since you're using what would otherwise be "mess" to your advantage.")
Problem is, good-quality stainless steel skillets are expensive, and the drop-off in price represents a really steep drop-off in quality, which would of course give you worse results in cooking and make you less likely to want to use one anyway. One thing to watch out for is skillets with disk bottoms, where the only place the manufacturers put the highly conductive aluminum core which appears in most stainless steel cookware in a disk on the bottom of the skillet. These are the cheapest options, but the problem is the sides of the pan don't heat up as evenly or as well as the bottom, which results in uneven cooking if you're using the entire surface of the pan. Better to go with a "clad" pan -- one in which the entire skillet is made out of a layer of aluminum sandwiched between stainless steel. Better conduction, more even heating, better performance, better food. Yes, clad skillets are more expensive (~$110 versus ~$50 for a disk bottom), but 1) Cooking.com, etc. run sales on these things all the time, and 2) as long as you take good care care of them (Bar Keeper's Friend works wonders for me), there's no reason why they shouldn't last a lifetime -- definitely worth the investment.
Looks like it could be some hard water staining. I agree with the barkeepers friend. it will bring it back to life. it won't even take much scrubbing to clear that up. You can get it at Walmart or most grocery stores.
You want the powder cleanser. the liquid cleaner is shite! this is what it looks like. it's really cheap like a dollar something per canister.
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B000V72992/
Bar-keeper's friend and elbow grease.That is sure to clean this up real nice.
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend-Powdered-12-Ounces/dp/B000V72992
I came here to say this. All of my pots look brand new! Barkeeper's Friend is a staple in my kitchen.
I have All-Clad. Pick up some Barkeeper's Friend it'll clean up the pans fast!
Also, medium heat for steak is a little low. I have an electric range and end up setting 7 out of 10. Basically, let the pan heat up. Then toss a few drops of water into the pan. If the water dances around on the surface, then it's ready for your oil and within a few seconds of heating up the oil, the steak.
For stainless you need bar keepers friend, takes off anything on stainless steel cookware with minimal elbow grease (burnt egg, milk, w/e just a minute of scrubbing). A magic eraser works wonders as well.
Cheat
https://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Roller-Perfect-Cigarettes/dp/B001GPJY64
It's partially the non uniformity but also it's because there aren't the fillers that normally cigarette add to give better burning properties. You'll never be able to replicate a cigarette with weed because they burn at very different rates
The way to fix it is get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Roller-Perfect-Cigarettes/dp/B001GPJY64.
Basically you want all the material to be uniformly compressed a lot bit.
You can prolly find them around town. Look for a 'smokers choice', or any tobacco shop. A head shop might have them too. They are considered a legitimate smoke accessory, they might be behind the counter at Rite-aid/Walgreens.
amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Roller-Perfect-Cigarettes/dp/B001GPJY64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1343880417&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=zig+zag+roller
Not bad, looks a bit 'bumpy' though..
Did you break it down more than what you have left in your hand there?
Also, if you're going to use the 'dollar trick', might as well get you a cigarette roller, roll perfect joints every time and fast.
Takes away from the 'hand rolling' I guess, but it's quite efficient. I usually only use mine for actually rolling cigs, don't smoke many joints any more really.
> I would not bat an eye if it turns out it's actually true and the US is causing it.
Reynolds Wrap Aluminum Foil, 2-Count, 250-Square $28.80 - Amazon.com Free Shipping on Qualified Orders!
In no way shape or form does it look like they're rigging ballots for Rubio.
Hope this helps
Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-500/dp/B001R2NM5U
> No I am saying there is an ongoing media campaign to point out the negative aspects of the middle eastern culture in order to justify the oppression to control oil prices.
http://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-REY10900/dp/B001R2NM5U
>The reality of the situation is both cultures have positive and negative aspects.
In one country, a woman can accuse a man of rape with no evidence, and watch him get proverbially lynched.
In another, a woman can actually get raped, have loads of evidence, and then get literally lynched for "adultery".
These are both pretty severe problems, but if you think that the countries that spawned them are equal on the "women's rights" scale, please get your brain checked.
Loose filters can be a number of problems. Too small of a filter being the easiest thing to blame it on. If you roll straights it can be hard to make the filter stay in, I usually try to keep the filter rolled as tightly as possible and pinch it between my fingers when rolling so it will expand to fit the paper when I let go, I sometimes rip gum tips off papers and use the glue to keep filters in when I'm having trouble. Alternatively if you roll straights, I find rolling cones really makes the filter sit better, as well as smoking better. If all else fails a raw rolling machine (I bought mine couple years back at my local headshop couple years back for something like 4$, and its never failed me) is a great investment for really cheap and wont break on you anytime soon. If you load one of these with about a .8 of rolling batch and a pretty fat filter it will roll you something that is extremely similar to a brand name somke in both look and feel. Good luck and happy rolling.
Like the other guy said, spoon pipes are alot less of a hassle, but if you insist on joints here's my suggestions:
https://www.amazon.com/RAW-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
Get one of these. It’s life changing.
I can tell you the secret... for about tree-fiddie
And by that I mean buy the aforementioned rolling machine... it's just over 3.50 on amazon with free shipping.
good idea! i just bought this to match these papers! and you put up a very valid point with the technicalities of the tubes vs thin rolling paper and the filters! thanks for ur input!
buy a pack of Randy's to learn with. The wire in it makes it easier to learn rolling technique. They arent the greatest but do the job and it has the built in roach holder. Or get this and a grinder and they work awesome
For cost savings, maybe try rolling your own. As I understand it, there are different levels of it, where the more skill you have the less complicated the tools are. You can freehand roll them, use a plastic machine
Or use an injection machine with filter tubes which are like cigarettes without the tobacco.
https://www.amazon.com/RAW-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
I believe he’s talking about something like this and if that’s the case these will make your life 100% easier if you can’t roll too good on your own
http://www.amazon.com/79mm-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381356746&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=raw+rolling+machine
$3.50 on Amazon. Rolling machine, 4 pack of papers (128 papers) and 500 filter tips for a total of $13.00
https://www.amazon.com/79mm-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=sr_1_3_s_it?s=hpc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481849549&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=zig%2Bzag%2Broller&amp;th=1
Or just type joint roller in amazon. They are super easy to use and make fat joints in a second or two
I dont know about cigarette injector, but before I learned how to roll joints I had bought a raw roller. It makes flawless joints and it's really quick. this is the one I got. You can get a 1 1/4 size and a king size. But now I roll my joints faster. It just takes practice man.
Buy one of these.
But if you're wanting something now you can always use 2 pencils, wrap the paper around one, lick it and seal it like you're rolling up the pencil and then push the paper up the pencil and pack the weed into it with the second pencil until the paper is full. Then twist it at the ends and fly to the moon.
I found this stuff on amazon and @ my local shop called Grunge off super soaker. Iso and salts work great if you let it sit, but that white stuff caused by hard water and the spots caused by smoke dont always come off. With this stuff, just let it sit and after a couple hours drain the liquid back in the bottle and just run warm water through the pipe. No need to scrub.
http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412015574&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=super+soaker+pipe
If I could tell my family I smoked and just had to worry about fixing the smell I’d just invest in getting a smell proof case and using mason jars to store my bud. There’s also reusable cleaner for bongs and water, like peace water, that keeps the bongs relatively clean. Keep your pieces clean and your mom happy. I can only dream of the day I can tell my parents.
Grudge Off
Grunge Off Super Soaker Glass Pipe Cleaner, 16 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LURISY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UPx6Cb3JT8HV9
(I'm just copying and pasting from my other comment)
Screw that isopropyl or 420 cleaner stuff. It never works 100% and you always have to scrub and make a mess. I highly recommend using Grunge Off
You do not need to scrub AT ALL and it's re-usable. Just pour it into a zip lock bag or a big bowl, drop your piece in and let it soak overnight. Pull it out in the AM and it's completely spotless. Just pour the stuff back in the bottle and re-use it. I'm still on my first 2 bottles (got the 2 pack) and I've been using it for months. I rarely go more than 3 session without cleaning my pipes, I just let them soak as soon as I'm done with em, and the more often you do it the less time you'll need to let it soak.
This...
http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY
It’s obviously not the highest end torch, but bought this 2 pack a few months ago and they have been very solid. Refilled each of them a few times already without issue.
Vertigo Triple Flame
I have had these single flame lighters for 2 years and recently tried out these triple flame torches because I wanted to heat in a hurry. The single flame allows for more temperature control but the triple flame is more wind resistant and heats faster. I like both but now use my homemade induction heater the most.
https://www.amazon.com/Vertigo-Cyclone-Triple-Lighter-Charcoal/dp/B00LJVW0FW
These fuckers are bulletproof. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve dropped mine, and it still works like the day I got it.
Vertigo Triple Torch, the last lighter you'll ever need.
I've tried several, and my favorite is Vertigo Cyclone:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LJVW0FW/
Unlike most on Amazon, reviewers don't seem to have a problem with it suddenly pooping out. You can see the butane level. And three torches means quick heating.
I went with AGM deep cycle because they are cheaper, and do not require a battery management system, or an external battery to battery charge controller to charge off the alternator.
I used 3x100 amp hour batteries (https://www.amazon.com/100Ah-SOLAR-WIND-CYCLE-BATTERY/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466452542&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=agm+deep+cycle).
That makes $460 including shipping for 150 amp hours of useable battery at 50% depth of discharge.
150 amp hours of lithium ion batteries is $1900 dollars. And then you have to factor in added cost for a battery to battery charger if you want to charge off the alternator.
http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/lithium-rv-deep-cycle.php
If you aren't an expert on batteries, stick with AGM deep cycle. They are dead easy to use, and here is a video of me running a blendtec off them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqF7YbjVpnc
As a side note, to run it for a week, you'd need this battery (it weighs 64lbs/29kg and is more than 12in/30cm long). I'm sure you can see why trying to do it with a battery would be quite counterproductive if you were aiming for a discreet profile :D
Ran an electrical system in my Subaru with an auxiliary battery charged off the alternator.
80 Amp isolator relay (switches charging on while car is running):
https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0
100AH 12V AGM battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C
2Ga Wire running the length from the Relay in the engine bay to the battery.
Kinda Extra things:
Kill Switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Switch-12-Disconnect/dp/B07413JWLD
100A inline Fuse
Multimeter (read current voltage, Amperage, etc): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/
If it were me, and I'd been having these issues, I'd replace both batteries just in case. They aren't expensive enough for it to be worth the risk in my opinion. Can't speak to your size constraints, but AGMs are nice because you don't need to top them off or worry as much about fumes. I got these ones for under $200 apiece and they've worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm about to blow your mind:
Mr Clean doesn't have a patent on magic erasers. They are called melamine sponges. You can buy a pack of 100 for less than $10.
Seriously.
https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK
I have become a melamine sponge whore. And I am ashamed.
The added bonus: I think that the magic eraser branded ones tend to have a scent on them. The generic ones I linked to don't.
If you're wondering, there's rumors all over the internet that magic erasers are just these
And I guess they're also bad for the environment. But I don't care. Just wanted to share this info in case you like those sponges and you want to get them cheaper.
Pop a wine cork in the stem, fill with Grunge Off and let it sit overnight. Next morning, rinse thoroughly (Grunge Off can be used multiple times, per its label) with water. Glass will be like new.
I use this battery operated fabric shaver and it works really well. My backpack still causes more pilling even after the first shave, so the pilling problem is ongoing. If using such a shaver, you have to be careful that you don't shave too much as it can put a hole in your fabric if it's thin enough or has been shaved too many times.
Have you tried this putty stuff? I have heard it works quite well, but I haven't used it myself.
http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
No major problems here but Cyber Clean works wonders
Probably Cyber Clean or something similar. https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
Use silly putty or something like this. DO NOT USE compressed air anywhere. Not on the mics or speakers, it can blow out their diaphragm.
If you haven't tried this stuff, I can highly recommend it. I treated my Clark's leather boots with it, and when I accidentally brushed against paint, it cleaned right off. I haven't tried it on serious scratches, but it might be worth a try.
This is actually quite a timely post. I just bought a bunch of leather cleaning products and conditioning for my leather jackets and boots.
My goods:
Most of this is for the leather jackets I own and have been abusing to heck with some water damage and snow damage. Boots that need a good cleaning and conditioning. And my old leather wallet that is looking like an old leather rag.
Leather Honey for regular maintenance and Bickmore No.4 after thorough cleaning with Bickmore No.1
Have you done anything to treat your bag? I got one of these last year, and immediately it started to stain all of my clothes. I've washed it with saddle soap and retreated it with Leather Honey, but I still have the same problem...
My husband is the same and buying something like this was totally worth it: Ziploc Vacuum Starter Kit, 3-Quart Bags, 1-Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UEMFUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XP3yCbM2GC72V.
Unfortunately Ziploc doesn't really make the bags anymore but the pump works with any vacuum bag that has that hole/port (I know we use FoodSaver brand). Keeps the cheese mold free for much, much longer and isn't too expensive.
These Zip-loc vacuum bags are another way to get air tight storage without the large initial investment of the Foodsaver. The bags can leak though, if too much product is stored in them or if they get a pinhole leak somewhere. I'm using these until I can justify buying a foodsaver myself :)
Absolutely. We decided to save counter space and go with one of these. Fits in a drawer! We just buy the "off brand" zipper storage bags that have a "port" for a hand pump. Great buy for us!
This. But, if you need to go with a cheaper route to start, you could try one of the hand-pump sealers.
You can also buy sous vide vacuum bags that use a pump to withdraw the air. Just stop when the gravy gets to the top. Here's one
I wanted a sous vide setup but I wanted to keep it as close to $100 as possible. My "kit" arrived from Amazon last night:
It worked like it was supposed to, and turned a cheap steak into something decent:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7rA1_fCC5zDR3ZVNUhVdlo3dEU&amp;usp=sharing
The controls were not the most intuitive, but it doesn't matter enough to pay a premium.
That's some sweet engineering! Still, I don't understand why more people don't just use these guys or something similar. I swear by them.
White printer paper is probably no worse than cardboard from rolling paper package. I bought bought a bunch of these raw filter tips super cheap for the amount you get saved me from having to worry about trying to scrounge around for decent paper for filters.
Enjoy frients. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005JFFY02/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1
Get something a long these lines.
For cigars, you could get the reddit sampler or one of the mystery packs.
While zippo's aren't ideal, you can get a Navy one and replace the insert with a torch one, I have a thunderbird one and it works ok. I had to wrap it in one layer of electrical tape, but it was most likely my zippo case being really old and cheap.
For a cutter you can get a cut and smoke combo, not a bad deal.
Yes.
And as YNWA said, I have no experience with this one either, but when I googled "butane insert for zippo lighter," this is what came up first;, the soft flame PlumpCigarsTX posted came up second, and I didn't even get the one that YNWA posted. so you may have to do a little research on your own, but a butane insert for a zippo lighter body is what you're looking for.
I have one of these in a cheap Zippo because I prefer them over bics. I carry both in my pack. But, the ease of the butane makes me prefer this for long-term storage.
I love my AeroPress. I have a chemex for larger brews, but I have yet to find something that replicates the amazing flavor that I get out of my method of AeroPressing. v60, French Press, drip. . .Tried them all. There are some rules that I abide by for my brew.
First off: METAL SCREEN FILTER! Never paper!
https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Original-AeroPress-Built-Guaranteed/dp/B00A1GVVMY/
That's mine that I bought in 2010, still working great! I don't like paperfilters in any brew method.
Second: do full cup brews in it, Not concentrations. No dilution.
Here's how it goes:
Done. No dilution, no concentration. That's one cup of coffee, and if you have quality beans it will be amazing. Variations I tend to go by:
For some African coffees (Kenyans, Ethiopian, and even Sumatrans), I might not even plunge, that metal screen filter will let the coffee drip right through and it will preserve the more floral/citrus flavors that I tend to find in those coffees better.
If I do have a medium roast coffee (rare, I like light roasts), I would press very delicately and probably not stir much at all.
Don't know of a source, but I know they're out there. You could try to be really nice and ask the folks behind the Kaffeologie S Filter https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Original-AeroPress-Built-Guaranteed/dp/B00A1GVVMY - they use a ultra fine steel mesh.
Right here!
Can’t call it a shitten. Shittens has that trademarked.
Holy crap, were the ads on that page also wonderful for anyone else?
Manly Essence :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003DN6EWY/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=V5C3CK2CATSB04YYKAQX&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41eK%2BsAANVL
Fuck You Leggings :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GQ637E2/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=4FFMAA6VDWNRV6QFYRB0&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=61-6dCO7aUL
Shittens, the full hand wetwipe mittens :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F547P6S/ref=pd_aw_vtph_147_bs_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=WC7Z68A8DAVKV57HX9QZ
Matrix Centaur Finger Puppets, Compete Set:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0153STBZS/ref=pd_aw_vtph_147_tr_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Q5JED4F639Y78FG6CDWP
https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-62-Percent-2-Way-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4
lol the bovedas are on amaxon. 8 for 12$
https://www.amazon.ca/Boveda-Humidipak-Medium-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499646807&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=boveda+packs
Do you have a UV light? That might help spot mold.
Next time, consider Boveda 62 packs to rehydrate instead.
Also, rosin isn't 100% THC, so it doesn't mean it was 20% THC flower when you get 20% yield.
I hear you still learning myself, yes two way and as I understand you can’t mess it up as they draw moisture if it’s to high and add if needed and bigger doesn’t hurt as it just maintains what’s needed.
I picked these up
https://www.amazon.ca/Boveda-Humidipak-Medium-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=3Q465H0B96UIA&amp;keywords=boveda+62&amp;qid=1555426829&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=boved&amp;sr=8-1
Posts I have read say 62 for smoking 58 for vape. I’ll find the post and share it in a sec as someone on here made some informative comments on the subject.
Yea that's what I'm talking about, it helps with moisture by keeping the humidity levels right
Boveda 62-Percent RH 2-Way Humidity Control, 8 gram - 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RFjHzbBTXRCPS
I grab mine from amazon they work out to about $1.20 a pack https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00JV27MF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501151850&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=boveda+packs&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Ir3pdIHxL&amp;ref=plSrch
10 for $12 with Prime
I am no expert or cultivator but some say that 62% still is too damp. Something like 59% would be ideal but the next step down is 49%. I use the 62% packs but open my jars periodically and don't change them until they're quite crunchy. No problems.
I just converted from humidor to tupperdor. Pick up a sistema in either 101 or 67 oz, and some boveda packs to keep the humidity. It's seriously the best way to keep sticks fresh and is super easy to setup.
Y'all motherfuckers snitched. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00JV27MF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 I was buying these for 12$ 6 months ago and now they are 30 on amazon.
By the by, they are the best thing ever. Anyone who doesnt use them gets instantly converted when they see how fresh your weed is. Try and order them online, head shops are rip off for them.
Yes, boveda packs provide humidity control and are pretty much the standard for storing herb properly. If you're storing for as long as a year, they would be a must have. Even if you open the jar weekly, you'll be fine. They can also (I've heard) be reconstituted when they expire, to be used again. Never tried it, you'd have to google that one for more info. I bought these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00JV27MF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Not the cheapest, but by far the best/easiest, and pretty cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JV27MF4/
Boveda 62% RH packs and a glass jar. Or even a decent plastic container, if it seals.
Grunge Off and its reusable.
All you need in life is Grunge Off. It's amazing, just plug up the downstem hole with a rubber stopper, fill up yer piece, let it soak for a bit, pour the grunge off back into the bottle, then rinse with water. You can reuse it a ton of times before it gets too gross. We'll use it for awhile in the bongs then relegate the kinda gross grunge off to a giant glass beer stein to soak slides etc. Absolute must have. https://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY
Rubbing alc + salt to get rid of the bulk of the garbage. After that, I really can't recommend Grunge Off enough. This is the best cleaner on the market, you really won't find many glass aficionados speak out against it sans the fact it might remove a label if you rub it against it enough. If you can't get grunge off this works well too which has the same active ingredient limonene-d (which is just a terpene from oranges). Soak your pieces over night, depending on your tube if its not a pipe you can get a glass stopper instead of a bowl so you can fill it to the top. You can reuse the stuff quite a bite before having to buy more. It's maybe 5 - 10 minutes of extra work every night for perfectly clean like you bought it new glass (with that new-shine look because it removes hard water).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LURISY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1454264254&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=grunge+off&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41sL95SN5lL&amp;ref=plSrch
could try using something like this http://www.amazon.com/Remington-Battery-Operated-Fabric-Shaver/dp/B0034BV6KA/
https://www.amazon.com/Remington-FuzzAway-Battery-Operated-Sweater/dp/B0034BV6KA/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498500983&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lint+shaver
not for the discoloration but lint shaver is rly nice for this type of thing
i got mine for 2 bucks at a japanese tenso but this should be the same thing
I opted not to use it because I had enough diapers. I’m sure you could still use it. I would just be concerned about eventual build up causing absorbency/ repelling issues.
You could try “shaving” off the stain. If it’s like the stain I have, it’s kind of rough and just on top of the fibers. So, a clothing pill shaver might work.
Just get a pill shaver. It has nothing to do with Arc’teryx at all, it’s just a basic property of fabric that’ll happen to just about anything sooner or later.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034BV6KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mUHXDbH369TK9
I wonder if something like this could work? https://www.amazon.com/Remington-Battery-Operated-Fabric-Shaver/dp/B0034BV6KA
fabric shavers! link Just don't press too hard and run over the same spot multiple times or you may create holes in your sweaters.
Here's a link to one http://www.amazon.com/Remington-Battery-Operated-Fabric-Shaver/dp/B0034BV6KA
I use my grandmas which is old and not able to be destroyed so I don't know if the new ones are of good quality. I use it weekly though. Sweaters, socks, blankets, chub Rub in yoga pants that make them pill, etc. extends the life of my clothes by a lot.
https://www.amazon.ca/Cyber-Clean-High-tech-Cleaning-Compound/dp/B00375JBL4
http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
Cyber clean is my best friend.
Cyber Clean 25055 Home & Office Pop-up Cup - 5.11 oz. (145g) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00375JBL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sIGOCb5Q90FRS
So this is me using "GateWayXs" solution of that putty, while cleaning my keyboard. Didn't even know it happened. I wonder what else I did...
Leather honey leather conditioner
Saddle soap is soap + oils. If the leather you're working on is dirty, you should use saddle soap (or a different leather soap) to begin with, and then switch to just a conditioning (oil) product and keep applying layers until it stops soaking it up quickly. The soap is relatively mild, but should be avoided when unnecessary.
I currently use Lexol conditioner because it's cheap and easy to find locally (I was out and needed some STAT), but I've heard great things about Leather Honey and I've also gotten good results from mink oil. Honestly, the brand isn't nearly as important as just doing it regularly.
http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Since-Bottle/dp/B003IS3HV0
Can I get a good, concises overview of leather shoe care?
As I understand, it's along the lines of:
Would this be a good choice for the shoe polish and brush/rag? Then this for the conditioner?
Also, some sites mention applying waterproof paste every year or so. Is that necessary for shoes that don't aren't expected to withstand rain (such as a pair of oxfords, which will readily leak water by the lacing regardless if the rest of the shoe is water proof or not)? If so, what's a good product to use?
Ack, best to try a lighter conditioner then. Cadillac is great! Personally I like this stuff a lot as well https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Furniture-Accessories/dp/B003IS3HV0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=leather+honey&amp;qid=1562611575&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
I don't have a schedule, I just apply it when the leather is starting to look dry. I tend to apply at the beginning of the season
I use Lexol (um...but the much smaller bottle? haha) and Leather Honey
A generic Leather Honey off of Amazon. It really made a difference!
The elastic actually isn't damaged, just frayed! I used Leather Honey, but I don't know much about the different types as I am brand new to this. It seemed to work well.
As other people have said, saddle soap to clean. I like Leather Honey Leather Conditioner as a conditioner/protector. It does darken the leather a bit, though.
Link for the lazy
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IS3HV0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B003IS3HV0&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=amaznile-20
A cheap hand vacuum sealer probably works fine, and definitely better than the authors suggestion. I use this to bag up my hops and things. Extra bags are not much more expensive either.
Travel Compression Tool. No batteries needed.
I'm using this kind of hand pump + ziploc bag
https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475021418&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ziploc+sous+vide+hand+pump
These are basically ziploc freezer bags, which can handle extreme temps. My understanding is normal ziploc bags cannot handle the higher temps for cooking.
Looking at the clamp sealer, I think those are just pricier, less flexible with cooking methods, and not needed since sous vide cooking doesn't reall require a perfect air tight seal.
Ziploc Vacuum Starter Kit, 3-Quart Bags, 1-Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UEMFUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tVGIBb65QDBXC
There's a ton of them, I searched vacuum storage hand pump.
I'm not finding the ones I used to see that took the wine saver style valve, but maybe they were shitty and bad products got weeded out.
Personally, if it's within the budget, I'd rather put the money into an inexpensive vacuum sealer. I had a Ziploc brand manual vacuum pump:
Ziploc vacuum kit
The pump worked nicely, but the bags would gradually leak and lose their vacuum, leading to freezer burn.
I got a $40 vacuum sealer (Crenova VS-1) when I got my Anova, and I've been very happy with it. And (2) 50-foot rolls of 11" vacuum bag material for $18 on Amazon has made it pretty affordable to use. Almost certainly cheaper per-bag than the Ziploc vacuum bags, and it works better. Reliable seals, and no leaks.
Don't underestimate your freezer so you can buy the ingredients you want. It took me years to embrace this while cooking for 2. Need heavy cream for a recipe but feel like it's wasteful? Go ahead and buy it, you can freeze the leftover as ice cubes and put them in a bag when frozen. Flash freezing items like that (or cut up bell pepper for example) is helpful. Also, try to vacuum seal your bags using a straw or [something like this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG) to get the most freezer life out of items.
FoodSaver Wide-Mouth Jar Sealer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005TN7H/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_WIx-yb44GTHDE
Ziploc Vacuum Starter Kit, 3-Quart Bags, 1-Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UEMFUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iLx-yb422N6MD
You want to get the wide mouth jar sealer so you can get the greens out of the jar. I think I got vacuum pump thing at Walmart and it was just the pump bc I didn't spend that much on it, but it's still one of the cheaper ones on Amazon and it's rly good quality.
That's when you have to use a vacuum seal bag. The vacuum bags are thicker, usually between 3 and 5 mm and the plastic withstands a higher temperature than zip locks. I've had bags fail on me a few times now and I can't tell you how much it sucks. Sous vide cooking isn't instant gratification so it doubly sucks when I bag rips after waiting hours. I'll use zip locks when I'm making boneless chicken breast or burger patty's that cook in 1 hour but for anything that cooks over night or is an expensive cut of meat I use a vacuum bag. For someone starting out and you don't want to drop 80 bucks on vacuum sealer you can look into one of these 5 dollar zip loc kit. It uses a hand pump and special high grade bags. It's cheap to get started but the bags can get expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419735910&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ziploc+vacuum+sealer+pump
I would freeze them. And quickly, peaches go from perfect to icky before you will realize it. See if you can find one of these freezer storage kits, should be at a grocery or Target/Walmart. Take a look at this guide for freezing methods. This is an easy way to make them last so you can pull them out later for muffins, pancakes, smoothies, chutney, etc.
Not a damn thing new with this...
http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG
Oh and if you don't want the manual pump, just get the battery operated one...
http://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-00590-Handi-Vac-Vacuum-Sealing-Starter/dp/B000XY8PDW
I plan on storing my seeds for years. Here's how I do it:
This method takes care of the 3 things that lower seed viability--humidity, oxidation (with the oxygen absorbers and vacuum seal), and temperature. I also plan on saving herb for the long haul like this, but with 62% Boveda packs instead of the CaCl2.
Get
If you get a pack of the RAW filter tips (not the perforated ones, the brownish ones that are usually like $1 -THESE) and roll it up REALLY tight itll fit inside the condenser. Stick it inside
After that, take a Qtip and clip off one of the cotton tops. Use the stick then to puh the filter through the dynavap. When it comes out, the filter paper will have pushed most of the oil and absorbed very little.
To clean the bowl piece use any thin piece of metal, some pocket knives have good parts on them for that.
EDIT: Then sandwich the wax with bud or AVB
These. I also realise now how confusing that was to everyone calling them tabs by mistake. oh dear
From what I've come to know the cotton tips filter out almost all THC. These are my go to for joints. You get a lot of them for cheap I think its a pretty good deal.
You can do that. You can also get some on Amazon. Look for Raw filter .. there's cigarette type filters, paper filters, all sorts of stuff. Chances are you'll get they before your weed...
500 RAW Rolling Papers Filter Tips (10 Booklets of 50) Standard Size Vegan https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005JFFY02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dgr1BbRGXA6VF
Buy them on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JFFY02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dPm2Bb425P2FT
just crutch papers man. Once you use them you'll never use business cards again.
http://www.amazon.com/Rolling-Papers-Filter-Booklets-Standard/dp/B005JFFY02
Bruh. Raw gotcha covered.
or order 500 perfect filter tips (or 1000 if you halve them like i do) for less than $5
http://www.amazon.com/Rolling-Papers-Filter-Booklets-Standard/dp/B005JFFY02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377472640&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=500+filter+tips
Get this one
Or this one
$12.73 :)
Here is are the papers, and here are the tips.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU
I doubt it but you can test it
I don't know how well I can answer your questions, as I'm new to lead issues and abatement. You've probably educated yourself on a lot of what I'm going to say, but I'm going to throw it all in this comment, anyway.
I live in a 110 year old house that is basically a ball of lead. The plumbing had lead joints, the service line is old and lead, the windows have lead, the doors have lead, the walls have lead, and the city is concerned that our water mains are shedding lead. And now, my child has a very slightly elevated lead level. Prompted by her most recent blood test, we are attempting a sensible lead abatement plan for our home.
First, figure out where the lead is. You can pick up water testing kits as well as swabs for surfaces. Once you know where the lead is, you can assess your risk and choose an abatement plan.
For instance, we have a small amount of lead in our water, which is likely a consequence of the service line. We got a bid for replacing it, and that was about $10k, plus the cost of fixing the yard that would be torn up. We went with a 10 year filter for the whole house, and that was about $900 including tax and installation.
Use the surface swabs on your windows that were installed before 1980, and if you have woodwork that was painted white, check that, too. It became popular to paint dark woodwork white in the 50s/60s to brighten up houses, and people used lead paint. We have solid wood doors and a ton of trim that is absolutely smothered in many coats of paint, and sure enough, it's super leady.
With windows, the act of opening and closing the windows can cause friction on the paint, which produces inhalable dust. If your family isn't experiencing significantly elevated lead levels, you have the option to simply wipe down the windows with a damp cloth to remove the dust. If you are more concerned, have the budget, or just want new windows, you can replace them. Check to see if your local municipality has a lead abatement grant for windows. In my city, they offer a $350/window grant to replace windows that test positive for lead (along with a few other qualifiers), and that really puts a dent in that cost.
With other painted surfaces, you're likely to be fine with encapsulation, which is a fancy way of saying painting over it. Lead is only really dangerous if you inhale the dust or eat the chips, so if you paint over it, it can't create dust. This will likely mean that you'll need to do a little scraping, which will obviously create dust, so you need to use a quality mask, and then clean like mad when you are done. Wet mop, dry dusting/sweeping is not good enough.
I'm in the process of restoring the woodwork because I prefer a stained finish, and for all the trim that isn't especially decorative or historically significant, I'm just replacing it. For our lovely doors, I sent them out to be dip stripped because it just wasn't worth the risk of my daughter sucking in all the dust while I removed the paint.
Because I have a young child, I'm not fucking around with lead, but the majority of people with lead paint in their homes are going to be just fine if they don't sand lead paint, carefully wipe up the dust with a wet cloth in areas that have lead paint (like windows), and prime/paint over the lead paint.
Get yourself some lead test strips. and also get an actual respirator. Dust masks don't do shit to protect against lead.
Lead can fuck you up, protect yourself.
Yes
There are lead test kits you can get pretty cheap on Amazon. You'll get results within a minute
http://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU
You can test the paint you're worried about with a kit at home. It's not very accurate, but will definitely tell you if there is lead in those paint chips.
If there is lead in there, get your blood tested. If you don't have symptoms of chronic lead poisoning, there's probably not much to worry about. But it's always nice to know for sure.
You can also use one of these to test for lead
http://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU
Also available at your local hardware store for a little more.
These are the test strips, they're mostly used for lead paint and sold at most hardware stores too. The blood lead test is a simple blood draw, just tell your primary care doctor that you may have had some chronic lead exposure recently and want to be sure you didn't get too much in you. You're probably fine, but it's best to get checked so in case you were significantly exposed via your clothes/toiletries/etc it can be treated.
I agree, they are awesome.
https://www.amazon.com/Vector-Thunderbird-Butane-Torch-Insert/dp/B008Z8W714
If you like the feel of a Zippo lighter but want the non leaking and straight butane light look into these Vector Thunderbird Butane Torch Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_piHyDbPFG790Y
awesome setup, victorinox is great stuff. If you want something to add think about flashlights. Save your phone's battery life and are much brighter (if you get the right one) but for me the flashlight is the most useful thing in my edc
Thunderbird insert. Comes in either soft flame:
https://www.amazon.com/Vector-Thunderbird-Yellow-Flame-Insert/dp/B008Z8W6BA
Or torch:
https://www.amazon.com/Vector-Thunderbird-Butane-Torch-Insert/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_121_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DK4QK91Q9P8DYFY187ND
>Do you mind checking the video in the link out cuz I tried many times to turn it on and when it finally does the flame goes off in a couple of seconds.
Yeah, not enough fuel.
>Mind sharing some pictures ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDqc_kq79II
Maybe it adds another day of not having to put fuel in it. That's just how Zippos are. If it bothers you you may want to check out butane inserts.
Here's the link to the clipper lighter, and the zippo insert. Two minor complaints I already have about the clipper compared to the zippo is that it seems to get much hotter, and you can't see the fuel level. One person also mentioned that pocket lint got into the lighter hole in the clipper and messed with the flame but I haven't experienced that
Sure!
https://www.amazon.com/Vector-Thunderbird-Butane-Torch-Insert/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542819088&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=zippo+butane+lighter+insert
You can buy gas torch inserts for them so you can still keep the cool sound (and look) with the reliability of a modern butane torch.
I was frustrated by the evaporation too. I picked up a thunderbird butane insert. It's worked out very well. I have both.
Butane torch:
http://www.amazon.com/Vector-Thunderbird-Butane-Torch-Insert/dp/B008Z8W714
Reg flame
http://www.amazon.com/Butane-Lighter-Insert-Flip-top-Lighters/dp/B003IRNUQI/ref=pd_bxgy_hpc_img_z
This just came up on /r/edc yesterday. I'm in the same boat as you, I carry a Zippo (don't smoke though) and it evaporates after 2ish weeks. I don't mind refilling it, but you can also pick up the butane insert that solves that problem.
I use a butane torch insert so I can have the size convenience of a Zippo but the power of a single flame torch. https://www.amazon.com/Vector-Thunderbird-Butane-Torch-Insert/dp/B008Z8W714
Yes yes and yes... I use a butane soft flame insert for mine http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IRLBUA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1404182091&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70 I love it but I'm a sucker for soft flames and cigars. I believe it is actually designed for pipes but I really like it. I've also used a Vector butane torch insert http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008Z8W714/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1404182091&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40 I love having the feel and weight of a zippo with the refinement of a butane torch. Either of those options will treat you right, you just have to pick your type of flame :) Cheers!
My lighter is a zippo with the butane torch insert, works really well. I also have a soft flame insert for it, but favor the torch.
This is the torch one I have It's pretty damn cheap if you already have the zippo case to use.
I love my Aeropress, he should be quite pleased!
Did you get the [permanent filter] (http://www.amazon.com/Filter-AeroPress-Ultra-Stainless-Coffee/dp/B00A1GVVMY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406663536&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=aeropress+filter)? Keeps the paper filter taste out. Easily picked up later if he wants one, I am sure.
Ima leave this little hack right here for Hario:
Skerton Owners
Mini mills go here
That will improve your consistency. A lot.
Something that is becoming more common is the 'filtering out your fines and / or post grind rinse' . THis is something the last Aeropress winner stated they did to eliminate the dust that mucks up the cup.
Get a 250 micron screen (I use an Aeropress and the steel screens made for aeropress can do the trick. If you are brewing anything but espresso , get the NORMAL. For espresso maybe you get the superfine )
NORMAL
http://www.amazon.com/Able-Brewing-DISK-AeroPress-Espresso/dp/B00E58P7ME/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413122354&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0&amp;keywords=steel+screen+aeropress
SUPERFINE
http://www.amazon.com/Filter-AeroPress-Ultra-Stainless-Coffee/dp/B00A1GVVMY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413122354&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=steel+screen+aeropress
and press some COLD water through your freshly ground coffee .
That gets rid of a lot of the fines and that dusty crap you end up with regardless of how good a grinder you use - 10% of your mass is little more than dust, get rid of it so it's not being brewed and you will notice a difference.
Just saying - for the folks that measure grams and temps, this is worth a try. See what you see. For the folks already rocking an Aeropress + steel screen, it's a no brainer.
Hope this helps.
I have a french press and I love it but I also have an Aeropress. It usually takes small paper filters (which I often reuse), but I also have a fine metal mesh filter.
I read everything I could find on this sub about metal filters, asked a bunch of people, and read a ton of reviews. I ultimately selected this filter.
It is on order, so I can't say how it performs personally, but I will say the sources I checked overwhelmingly suggested this filter over others.
i have an aeropress, and ill be happy to answer any questions.
it works well and you really are able to control your coffee perfectly. But the filters are a bit thick and soak up a lot of oil (my favorite part) so i would reccomend a metal filter (i just bought mesh wire from home depot and cut a circle. the one on amazon is 10 bucks, and im cheap). http://www.amazon.com/Filter-AeroPress-Ultra-Stainless-Coffee/dp/B00A1GVVMY/ref=pd_sim_k_9?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0GTY25R561NQ7XXDB5MT
also aeropress takes roughly the same amount of time to make 1 cup as it does for 4 cups, which is roughly the same amount of time it takes to prep 1 caraffe of french press. I wouldnt advise it if youre making a lot of coffee.
Cleanup is super fucking easy though.
Behold the power of stainless steel! http://www.amazon.com/Kaffeologie-Filter-Stainless-Coffee-AeroPress/dp/B00A1GVVMY no more paper and it lets that sweet sweet oil pass through unlike the paper stuff. I highly recommend trying out the aeropress world champion recipe! Ofcourse with good beans comes great drinkability! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GWM8CS/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 also recommend blue horse kona its expensive though :/
No pude conseguirlos acá.
En cuanto dí con alguien que viajaba afuera compré el paquete doble de filtros y un filtro metálico para ver cómo andaba. Da muy buen resultado aunque hay tratarlo con cariño.
Available at Amazon. Great xmas gift.
Shittens Disposable Mitten-shaped Wet Wipes, 20 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F547P6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y-IoDbVBQ620Z
https://www.amazon.com/Shittens-Disposable-Mitten-shaped-Moist-Wipes/dp/B00F547P6S
Shittens is an actual thing.
You mean Shittens: https://www.amazon.com/Shittens-Disposable-Mitten-shaped-Moist-Wipes/dp/B00F547P6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=shittens&amp;qid=1558737467&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=shittens&amp;sr=8-2
Haha. Tell her to check out Shittens! Read this review while you're at it: http://www.amazon.com/Shittens-Disposable-Mitten-shaped-Moist-Wipes/dp/B00F547P6S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
ÖöÖöÖ
Absolutely. Seems hit or miss.
Though I'm now interested in one of the related products, Shittens.
Narwhals are the unicorns of the sea
Awiens!
..and Shittens, just cuz
I use the following for storing my good stuff:
https://dabpress.com/collections/rosin-accessories/products/dp-sc800-stainless-steel-weed-container?variant=12119162617929
Boveda 62-Percent RH 2-Way Humidity Control, 8 Gram - 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wE2IDb9E1PJDA
First of all, store your weed with a Boveda 62:
https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-62-Percent-2-Way-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494801588&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=boveda&amp;th=1
It's an inexpensive, magic packet that will keep everything near it as 62% humidity, which is just right. Don't use apple slices or anything like that because they can cause mold.
In the meantime, if you have an oven, and an oven thermometer, you can make some bitchin' edibles:
https://www.reddit.com/r/trees/comments/6306nr/some_atypical_thoughts_on_dailydriver_type_edibles/
Large jars with humidity packs for long term storage. Move from that jar to a smaller jar you will be opening more regularly for usage. You just don't want to be opening your storage jar as much as your usage jar. It will keep the humidity packs lasting longer. The humidity packs should last 4-6 months in a dark sealed jar. Just replace the packs when they get stiff and you should be able to store for quite a while.
Boveda Humidity Packs
Integra Humidity Packs
You can also try these, they're definitely more expensive but incredibly worth it ngl
Weed may smell grassy even tho it's skunky in the room but that smell typically goes away during drying and will definetly be gone sometime in the cure.
Make sure to have proper airflow and to dry and cure your buds properly.
I use boveda 62% as soon as they go into the jars. And I Crack them every day for the first week or two to help the rh stabilize then onto the long cure.
Boveda 62-Percent RH 2-Way Humidity Control, 8 gram - 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dDXmzb6G60E5Y
Source: my last harvest all smelled a bit grassy until at least dry and 1 strain took 3 weeks in cure to get rid of its grassy smell.
Damn bro its like you never heard of a humidity pack before.
Tommy-link
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Boveda-Humidipak-Medium-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550004885&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=boveda+62
Murcian-link
https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-62-Percent-2-Way-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550004919&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=boveda+62
The "too much moisture" and mold issues can be avoided by using Boveda packs which will prevent the optimal 62% relative humidity from being exceeded.
I buy on amazon, https://www.amazon.ca/Boveda-Humidipak-Medium-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=boveda&qid=1572618546&sr=8-3
I also rehydrate; place hard packs in glass of water for a few min until soften, then into a ziploc. Have rehydrated each pack many times; no need to throw out. I place an 8G into an OZ bag/jar and it keeps it fresh.
Get some boveda packs to add to air tight mason jars stored in a cool, dark place. Should last you a long time!
It's super strain dependent. The lowest I've gotten is 10% and that's from a single strain. Average is 15%+. Humidity is a big thing too. With these and dialing the time and temps down on certain high yielding strains you can easily get 20%+. Gorilla Glue #4 and Blueberry have been my biggest yielders so far(pics are a couple weeks old but still using the same flower today). If you tell the people at the dispensaries that you're going to press it they might be able to direct you towards better yielding strains too. And instead of using an ounce or more just testing times and temps, you might want to just press small buds one at a time, checking out the color, stability, yield, flavor for like single dab presses. Then you find what works the best without having to buy an ounce of each strain just to experiment.
Mason jars from the dollar store or like walmart work fine then just keep one or two of these in the jar with it. It will basically bring dry bud back to life with moisture and makes it sticky again/keeps it sticky and fresh if you already have good bud :) One boveda pack could probably last a month and there are ways to "recharge" them if you're cheap but personally I just throw them out once they dry up too much.
I use stash jars that are 3" tall and 2" diameter (standard size) to hold weed. Line these in the back in individual holding slots of 3 or 4. Sectioned off from the front and length wise a simple trough to hold items like vapes, pens, paper, grinder. For humidity control use Boveda 8g packets in each jar. They last for months keeping his cannabis fresh.
If you really want to trick it out pick up some Swagstr stash jars and matching grinder on Etsy. They also sell stash boxes so have a look for design ideals.
Yeah, mine dried out too fast in my garage... there is NO humidity, and the air is totally dry.
I sent away for some of those Bovida packages to rehydrate my buds in the jars... https://smile.amazon.com/Boveda-62-Percent-2-Way-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=BBOLKJUPSEXR&amp;keywords=bovida+humipacks+62&amp;qid=1572363967&amp;sprefix=bovine%2Caps%2C199&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQ0NNSTZZQjBVUzhPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODYyMTE1MVVWQlFFTk9PVkpLVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTAxNjY2M01WS0xVTkVZV01UOCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I keep my almost all of my weed in the dark, in glass jars, with a boveda pack, I also have small hygrometers (you dont need one in every jar, I just move them around to keep an eye on the humidity()
I lost track of some strawberry Jerry, it had been sitting for 5 months, I rolled a joint last week, it smelled and smoked as good as it did when I first opened it, you dont forget the smell, it was from KC so the Terps are always good and they are still the same.
Sources:
Anchor Hocking Emma Jar with Glass Cover,10-Ounce,Set of 4 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001D9FQNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NEWQDbYCCDTES
Boveda Humidipak 8 Gram (Medium) 10 Pack 2-way Humidity Control 62% RH https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kGWQDbEG7KHBS
EEEKit 5-Pack Mini LCD Digital Electronic Temperature Humidity Meter Indoor Thermometer Hygrometer (Black) (5-Pack) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07KBW4W12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vOWQDbWRDJ9V7
Get yourself some of these:
Boveda Humidipak 8 Gram (Medium) 10 Pack 2-way Humidity Control 62% RH https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7l5QCb9ZHF304
Ey! this might be a late reply and what i am about to say may have already been written but what i did to keep my cabbage good was to use Boveda 62-Percent RH 2-Way Humidity Control, 8 gram - 10 Pack to keep the humidity in check and so that mold does not grow on your delicacy. for storing i used Ball Wide Mouth Pint 16-Ounce Glass Mason Jar with Lids and Bands. hopefully this helps out and keeps your buds good to go for a long time to come! hope you have a great day!
Hmmm that's odd then. Assuming the lids and all that jazz are in decent shape I am pretty stumped. Maybe try something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JV27MF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465764598&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=boveda+humidity+packs+small&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41VIvgZEEHL&amp;ref=plSrch
Yeah it saves me when i'm out of fresh weed leaf/bud . Not sure about headshops selling it but i got mine from amazon https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00JV27MF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JV27MF4/ref=s9_al_bw_g201_i3
It might be worth it then to just order it on Amazon.
> Saw it on Hamilton’s pharmacopeia.
The green one? Indeed.
I have the same exact setup as you (except with a Vertigo lighter), but mostly use it for 5-MeO-DMT.
I should've mentioned I bought the starter kit myself, and while I'm happy with it, I could have done without some of the extra bits since their parts are built to last anyway. My kit came with a triple burner torch (Amazon has a two pack for $17)that I like as well. Gets the cap to a vape temperature a bit faster, but does not perform as well as a single burner if you want to maximize your hits. Dynavap has a good video explaining the difference.
Sneaky Pete also made a good video with some heating tips.
If you decide to get one, enjoy! They are really fun devices and are pretty cheap to boot.
I started typing and this ended up being really long, hopefully it helps. I might have gone overboard, so if you need / want a TL;DR or more info on anything just say the word and I'll do what I can :)
My personal preference is to add details and touch-ups to my figures. I've done a few full repaints, and I'm working on my first airbrushed figure, but I really like adding in details where the factory didn't :)
---
Paints:
I've had good results using alcohol based acrylics like Tamiya, Model Master, or Testors Acrylics (I think Enamels are Testors' main line, so make sure to check what type it is). Alcohol-based acrylics thin and clean up nicely with 91% isopropyl alcohol, I usually pick it up from whatever pharmacy is nearby (don't get the 70%, it doesn't work at all).
Citadel and Vallejo make nice water-based acrylic paints in additional colors, you'll definitely need a primer if you're working with Vallejo (I've only used a couple of Citadel paints, so I can't really speak to them).
You'll want to stay far away from acrylic craft paint, I've tried it in the past and it doesn't come out well at all (I just use some empty glass or plastic jars from stuff like sour cream or salsa since they're not too big).
Some folks like enamel paints, and there might be another kind of model paint, but the chemicals in those paints and their thinner tends to be quite strong so I avoid them. I used un-thinned enamels when I first started painting, and when I tried to use the thinner it ended up melting my paint tray and making a mess, so I'm not too keen to give them another try.
---
Tools are going to differ a bit depending on how you want to paint (hand painting vs airbrushing or spray painting).
---
Hand Painting:
You'll need paints, some soft bristle brushes (I have a set like these), something to stir your paint (I use a Badger Paint Mixer and love it to bits), thinner (depending on your type of paint), a mixing tray, some pipettes for measuring paint and thinner, something to hold your parts while painting (I like these Aligator Clips), something to stick the clips into (I use a styrofoam block wrapped in plastic from a craft store, but I've seen folks use taped together cardboard like from Amazon boxes or the cheap foam coolers), some fine grit sand paper or nail buffing blocks to help rough up the surface slightly to help the paint stick, and something for topcoat (I absolutely love Pledge Multisurface Floor Care, aka Future Floor Wax, it's a clear acrylic wax that dries to a semi-gloss to gloss shine, it brushes on nice and self-levels for a smooth finish, and one bottle will last a REALLY long time; I got a bottle a few years ago and I've used it on a LOT of gundams and TFs and the bottle is still half full). You may also want some smaller containers or jars to hold your thinner, brush cleaner (alcohol or water), and topcoat if you're using Pledge just so you don't need to keep the big bottle out on your workspace.
---
Airbrushing:
You'll need an airbrush and compressor, and then a lot of the same supplies as above. You'll also want some small-ish jars to store your thinned paint so you can re-use your leftover paint instead of having to toss it, and some painter's tape to mask off parts you don't want to paint and to keep your paint lines clean.
You can airbrush inside the house, but you'll want to do it in a well ventilated area if you don't have a spray booth (box with a fan and air filter to help move the fumes out the window and help keep the paint from spraying everywhere). I'm still learning to paint with my airbrush, so I don't have too many tips here.
---
Spray painting:
You'll need your choice of spray paints, alligator clips, fine sand paper, and some painter's tape to mask off areas so it doesn't get everywhere. I definitely wouldn't advise using spray paints indoors, the fumes tend to be really strong. I haven't really used spray paints in a long time, so I'm not a lot of help here either.
---
Markers:
Some folks might recommend sharpies or paint pens / markers, but I've never had good luck with them.
I do highly recommend using a Micron, Graphix, or Prismacolor marker / pen for highlighting panel lines in .005 thickness for most figures. The .01 and even .05 markers can work well too, but they might be too thick for some figures, so a couple different thicknesses can't hurt (I've got a pencil case full of lining markers from those brands). Don't use sharpies for panel lines, unless things have changed, even the thinnest ones tend to dry a purpley-blue instead of black, and the lines are still really thick compared to the Micron.
---
Painting Tips:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Future-Surface-Protect-Restore/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509921459&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pledge+floor+care+finish
Cheers mate. Simple green over here doesn't exist, variation of is rubbish. I've read so many things to use, dettol, cheap disinfectant, nitromors, meths. I just want an easy solution, I don't want to have to scrub the buggers. I've a memory from being a kid and using nail varnish remover and the paint just going a smudgy mess that came off in strings, it was such a pita I never attempted it again.
I'm also struggling to find some future at a decent price, I'm pretty sure this is the stuff but it's quite pricey.
I'm wondering whether this is the same. Reviews on both say they're both the right stuff. I'm annoyed as thought it was easy to get in the UK and left two massive bottles of it in Aus when I moved. I've got an empty Tamiya paint pot of it and then it's gone.
Time to have a crack at my exhaust! Once again it's a pity to strip as she looks pretty good to me!
Ich möchte Dir diesen Artikel bei Amazon.de empfehlen
S C JOHNSON WAX - Floor Care, 27-oz.
von BIC WAREHOUSE
Weitere Informationen: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_jdo0AbNRAT8DZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_BKGLBb4NB363Q
This is the latest branding of the original formula
Pledge 11182 Revive It Floor Gloss, 27 Ounce, Clear Transparent Liquid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eVvZBbA92KC50
Same with Future Floor Polish - do people actually use that stuff on floors...
To seal metallics the secret is to use Pledge acrylic clear floor finish. you can put it on as soon as the paint dries and it will dry to a hard shiny clear coat that won't dull the metallic sheen. https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496411036&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=pledge+floor+care
https://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C
SC Johnstons floor wax, depending on where you live there might be a different name for it, and harder or less hard to find.
Clean out your airbrush thoroughly with Windex (or any cleaning agent of choice) and then water (to remove any ammonia from the Windex) afterwards.
If you ever want to make more transparent masks, I highly recommend Future...oh right they changed the name. [Johnson bought it off] (https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478320050&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Future+shine+floor+wax), but it's the same formula. What you do is pour a bit into a cup, mix in a little dye/acrylic paint to your desired color, and then dip the mask in and leave it in there. No chance of mask melting/deforming, and a nice and clean process.
I don't believe that's the same. This is what you're looking for. And as far as I know, you can use a paintbrush.
Np. They keep changing the label - I guess this is what it looks like now: https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C
I lose track because one bottle will last you forever so it's changed a couple of times since I needed to buy any.
I've heard that a dip in this is helpful (dip and dry; don't polish).
If they are too loose you can tighten them by applying a super thin layer of clear nail polish on the peg and letting it dry for 48 hours.
However personally I use future floor polish aka pledge floor polish
http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451296160&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pledge+floor+shine
dip the peg in it vertically [hand up, peg down] and then just tap the end of the peg on a paper towel. let it dry 24 hours.
if its too loose still, repeat!
> How would I make the Primer smoother without sanding and just out of the Airbrush? Like those Mr. Surfacer or near their quality
You're not. Hobby paints are made using much finer pigment that gives it that smooth finish. That's why they cost more money. If they didn't have an advantage over $1 spray cans no one would buy them. Straining might help, but it's never going to be as smooth as the expensive hobby primers.
>How would I make the Gloss Coat more glossier?*
If you are looking for a cheap gloss coat buy some Future Floor Polish. You can spray it straight out of the airbrush or thin it with rubbing alcohol. I don't know of a way to make an existing paint glossier. Maybe try buffing afterwards?
Is this the brand you use?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493221253&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=future+floor+wax
What kind of paint did you use? Do you have an airbrush? Do you plan to sand with 800+ grit before coating?
There's a lot to learn about paint jobs and sealing them. After a few failed attempts and weird reactions, I tend to keep same brand paint throughout a piece (for primers I hop around, but let it dry completely before top coating).
If you're using a different brand I HIGHLY suggest you wait until it has gassed out (it doesn't smell like paint anymore lol). This can take several days depending on how many coats you used, and whether you applied them too thick.
Sanding allows for better grip of the clear coat to the paint. Wet sanding is best since it removes the debris of paint and prevents most deep scrapes. It is easy to sand through your paint, especially if you only did one coat (which is why you should do 2-3 with some light 600 grit sanding in between)...
I hate sanding before a clear because I suck at it and tend to create a deep scratch or two because I'm too strong for my own good :P What I have found to work wonders is Floor polish/wax.
This is the ONLY one that a lot of modelers suggest:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It was known as "Futures" before, but after re-branding and all that, it is now what I linked. You'll need an airbrush for this. Do a light misting of the entire part you're working with, then apply several thin coats allowing them to dry in between (usually 1-2 minutes or less if you have good air circulation). It smells great, self leveling, you can dip small parts into a little cup filled with this stuff... it's fantastic. It's slightly flexible as well. If you wait 38 hours (i think that's what the bottle says) you can apply a second coat for added protection. Make sure to clean your airbrush with ammonia (I use windex), to prevent it from curing inside it.
Essentially, floor polish is more forgiving, but offers slightly less protection than a well applied clear coat. If you don't have time for all that prepping crap (wet sanding before and between clear coats), then definitely go this route.
Here is where I got mine.
I bought a broom like this years and years ago at the county fair - you know, one of those "home show" demonstrations:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=asc_df_B000EFDOOA5245909/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=394997&amp;creativeASIN=B000EFDOOA&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=167134408017&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=13703579249173887972&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9027682&amp;hvtargid=pla-328029203487
It. Is. Fucking. Incredible. My only complaint is that it's not the easiest to do corners with. But hot damn, it picks up everything.
Evriholder FURemover Broom with Squeegee made from Natural Rubber, Multi-Surface and Pet Hair Removal, Telescoping Handle that Extends from 3 ft to 6 ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EbDLBbRVQB1H5
Something like this
I swear by this thing - a once-over on our rugs gets up almost all the fur, and then I can go through with the vacuum.
That said, with vacuuming make sure you're running it at different angles; you need to approach the carpet from a couple different directions to get all the fur loose as you go.
It's friggin' awesome this thing... I tried it out on an area that had already been vacuumed - and it pulled up stuff the vacuum had left behind. Definitely requires "raking" action than "push broom" action.
https://www.amazon.com/FURemover-Squeegee-Natural-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521034340&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=fur+remover+broom
My particular one is the FURemover, I got it on Amazon for around $20. You use it just like a rake, raking up all the hair haha.
Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/FURemover-Squeegee-Natural-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA
What's different from your old house?
/u/majesticjg has the right idea. We've noticed that area's without carpet have the least amount of "animal" smells. Dust and hair get pushed into the corners of the rooms by the ceiling fans and we just sweep them up every couple of days. Soft surfaces like carpet and cloth trap and hold dust and hair. This is one of the best tools for rugs and carpet. It pulls up all the crud that gets stuck down in the fibers that a regular vacuum just can't get. It works really good on berber and not as good on shag, so YMMV.
We have 10+ animals in our house and our filter still looks brand new after 6 months, it's one of those $30 12 month monster filters (I should check it again though). We also only have one bad shedder who we comb regularly and that seems to help the most out of everything. Grooming your pets is something that people tend to forget, but is an important part of owning a pet. The GSD/Husky mix is the worst shedder I've ever seen and we usually have to give him a good combing every couple of months. A Furminator is nice, but we just use a fine tooth comb or one of those metal bristle brush. If you dogs don't mind the vacuum, having someone there with the hose to suck up all the hair makes things a lot cleaner.
You can use a rubber broom. I bought this one.
For blankets, I'd just shake them out super hard outside. I usually just throw them in the wash though.
I have an american eskimo mix who sheds all the time in a household with (mild) dog allergies so we vacum a lot. If you have high pile carpet, none of the roombas we've tried seem to be able to get all the fur totally out of the carpet. It does pretty well but there still is visible fur clumps after it runs. We either run a regular vacuum once a month as a deep clean or use a carpet rake to get the rest of the fur out. The carpet rake works better for us since our dog is terrified of the regular vacuum (He does fine with the roomba tho).
I have a rubber broom that collects dust and all of the pet hair.
It hurt a little to pay so much for a broom, it's worth it. One side is also a squiggly that ul you can use on floors or windows.
Evriholder FURemover Broom with Squeegee made from Natural Rubber, Multi-Surface and Pet Hair Removal, Telescoping Handle that Extends from 3 ft to 6 ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BcD7AbMKGR1P7
I think we would both like this!
From my list!
I'll add to this reply with saying you should isolate a problolmatic cartridge, open it up, clean the contacts with 99% alcohol and a cotton swab. If the contacts aren't shiny then I take a little Bar Keepers Friend, dab a paper towel with it and scrub over the same area. This picks up any residue preventing a proper connection to the contact pins. In my experience my pins have always been good but the cartridges contacts had a residue on them that was nearly impossible to clean off without Bar Keepers Friend.
Anyways, I'm still looking for a place that sells Bar Keepers Friend. If anyone here knows where to buy one, please let me know :D Cheers.
Bar Keeper's Friend works really well too.
Pick some up some Bar Keepers Friend (https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992) and some copper or steel wool.
Get in there good, then season. You'll need to dry it immediately after use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V72992/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_UFOiDbH7BM527
Bar Keepers friend. Should work.
Cleaning:
I've gotten cleaning down to two products: Bar Keepers Friend and 7th Generation Powdered Dish Soap. These products are basically magic, if you allow them time to work. BKF works on things that are baked or burned in and for use on metal (except aluminium) and glass. Sprinkle BKF over the area to be cleaned, wet it until it's paste like, then walk away for 30 minutes or so. When you come back, re-wet it if it's not still wet, and use a paper towel to polish off the stain. Usually comes right up with very little elbow grease. Same principle applies to 7thGen. Fill your kettle/carboy/whatever with water and add about a tablespoon of powder per gallon of water. Let it sit overnight. I've yet to find grime that will stand up to it. It's magic works on a combination of what is basically oxyclean free and enzymatic cleaners. Much in the same way enzymes break up starch in malt to make it into sugar, these enzymes break up proteins and junk to release it from whatever is clinging to it. The only gotcha here is the enzymes have a shelf life, so you can't let it sit around forever. If you use it in other household cleaning, you can go through it at a fair pace and always have an opportunity to freshen up your supply.
Sanitation:
StarSan is clearly everyone's favorite sanitizer, but I do worry a bit about it's effectiveness over the long term with organisms building up resistance to it. I currently try to cycle in Saniclean every now and again, which has some of the same ingredient as StarSan, but uses a slightly different chemical to help keep the foam down while still sanitizing. I'd love to find out if someone has found another product as effective as these two that isn't iodine or chlorine based. In the mean time, to help keep things shaken up, I use heat where ever possible to add in an additional layer of sanitation. A pro brewer once told me cycling 180F water through your system for 15 minutes will kill just about anything you have to worry about. Seems solid and I like the fact it isn't an additional chemical.
Sterilization:
I only really use this for canning wort right now, but a pressure cooker is a nice thing to have. I've also been known to use tyndallization on items that might not quite make it through the pressure cooker. If anyone is regularly sterilizing things, I'd be interested in hearing what you're sterilizing, what method you're using (heat, steam, gas, ultrasonic, etc.), and why.
edit : Fixed the linking I think.
Barkeeper's Friend. Works like a charm.
Seriously Barkeeper's Friend is my favorite cleaner. I use it on my glasstop, my stainless steel cookware, my knives...it's amazing!
This is what I have always done. It cleans them well. I have also used Bar Keepers Friend and had great results. I have the cheap Orgreenic pans and have been using them for the last three years or so and they still work great. My only real complaint about them is that I wish they were a bit thicker.
Highly rated pan right here. Remember to use wooden or plastic spatulas if you want to keep it looking pretty. Metal spatulas will scratch the hell out of it, but honestly doesn't affect the performance of the pan. Also, Barkeeper's Friend is the best thing for cleaning it.
Did you try scrubbing it or did you just pour the bleach/cleaners in and let them soak. That pink stuff looks like biofilm. Most of that should come off with some comet or other cleaner and some scrubbing.
If not, drain the toilet by shutting off the water supply and flushing it. Then scrub it with a pumice stone like someone else suggested or Bar keepers friend. http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420410568&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=bar+keeper%27s+friend+cleaner
if it's rust then bleach wont work as it just further oxidizes the iron.
Girl you need to get some Barkeeper's Friend pronto. It is amazing stuff and so cheap too.
Also works really well in the kitchen, like for anything covered in cooked-on grease or even for stainless steel cookware that is discolored.
It appears it's only available in the U.S., Canada, and Puerto Rico.
However, if Amazon will ship to you... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V72992
Everything else, crock pots, even measuring cups, is optional. Slow cookers, microwaves, electric kettles, and rice cookers are all nice, but there is nothing you can make in them that you can't make in a pot, like humans did for thousands of years. You'll want measuring cups for baking, but for cooking you're adjusting on the fly anyways.
Bar Keepers Friend
I just got a stainless set for Christmas this past year. I was really excited but also terrified, then I did some research. The key to stainless steel cooking is heat the pan first before adding ANYTHING. I believe the adage is hot pan, cold fat.
So, say you want to cook something over medium-high heat.
I can even scramble eggs in my skillets and they slide out like nothing. You'll notice after a little practice that these babies are, when used properly, less prone to stick than something with a non-stick coating, unless of course you burn the shit out of it. :)
Also, for cleaning, let the pan cool before you wash it. My favorite things to use are either no scratch Scotch Brite pads or Scotch Brite Dobies but in most cases I don't really need to scrub. That being said, you're going to encounter situations where you burn things or the fat oxidizes on your pans and for this, hands down, get some Bar Keepers Friend. It's the best thing ever.
You can get it on Amazon cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V72992/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
I bought some after I burned oil in my stainless steel pan.
http://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Roller-Perfect-Cigarettes/dp/B001GPJY64
Just buy this and never worry about it again. Rolls perfect every single time.
If you want perfect cigarette-sized joints, get a roller. They're cheap & produce consistent, reliable results.
Or head to your local C-store spend less than 5 dollars on a cigarette roller.
Perfect joint everytime.
Zig zag brand:http://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Roller-Perfect-Cigarettes/dp/B001GPJY64
you can get these at a lot of convenience stores.
Spent a while learning to roll, then I discovered...
Mine's: http://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Roller-Perfect-Cigarettes/dp/B001GPJY64/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=2HEP1PXR8784V&amp;coliid=I1NI50GBFKV0BV ($3.89)
Which I don't need, but I'm lazy.
Apparently it's a 'health and personal care' item?
Close second is a used copy of Eyeless in Gaza ($4.65)
This helps me out alot
Not everyone can just roll blunts or joints. Pretty much a make shift Zig Zag roller like these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GPJY64/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/186-8741664-1654669?qid=1404703272&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
>There's no way you aren't related to someone in PGI or something like that.
Here's a hat for you
It is not foiled tin its aluminum wrap he probably use this http://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-Pack/dp/B001R2NM5U
[You might need this] (https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-500/dp/B001R2NM5U)
I don't buy thin foil because I do a lot of camping and don't want things to open up and ruin my food on the campfire. But it is just Reynolds Foil, 250' and not even heavy duty. If I bought this double pack on sale from Amazon here it would have only been $12 each.
you twist it in case you dont plan on smoking it within an hour or so and you are worried about it falling apart.
looks pretty loose so it was a good idea for him... goodtry/10 bro
maybe think of investing in a roller-
http://www.amazon.com/79mm-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
Easier to get a rolling machine. https://www.amazon.ca/Hemp-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
I highly recommend a Raw “cigarette” rolling machine! Once you get the hang out of it, there’s no turning back!
Joint Roller
check this out, I don’t use it but I heard it gets you perfect joints every time!
Well, mine is Raw, I got it from Rock universe. Most headshops should have them. Or buy from Amazon - https://www.amazon.ca/RAW-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
ninja edit: OCS might have some under accessories
Try using a cigarette roller. My thumbs are shot and this makes it super easy.
There was a thread not too long ago (maybe an hour) talking about some tips and tricks for rolling. If you like me and can't roll to save your life, pick one of these up.
https://www.amazon.ca/RAW-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
https://www.amazon.com/RAW-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
I got you 👌🏻
https://www.amazon.com/79mm-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494087142&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=rolling+machine
Ever used on of these? Cigarettes are horrible for your circulation which won't help your dexterity. Do you like rap music? You could get yourself an MPC instead of a guitar and make some beats or something...
get a rolling machine:
http://www.amazon.com/79mm-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
I have one of these and it works like a champ.
If I don't feel like rolling, I use one of these. Cheap, and effecient.
Good luck m8
Almost everybody had one of these, tho
Yes but it will stink and also taste differently when you relight it.
I’m not sure about at Ganjika or the OCS but at the Wee Smoke Shop in dt Brampton you can buy rollers. The brand is Raw and it’s no more than $10. It’s a little contraption where you put the weed into it and a filter paper, then you just close it, feed a rolling paper through, give it a twist, lick the paper and you have a smokeable joint. (Not the prettiest or best roll but it’s fast and small and convenient). Here’s a link to it on Amazon
It's the RAW 1.25 roller. You can get it here on Amazon
Anything "RAW" in that case. Without spending too much money I'd suggest a raw rolling tray, raw papers (1 1/4 size is what most people roll with), and some tips! If he has a difficult time rolling his own joints you could always get him a rolling machine. They're pretty cheap.
Rolling machine
Tray
I cannot vouch for the machine, but everything else is pretty basic. Pretty much everyone uses Raw papers these days. I prefer variety myself, but yeah.
I recommend this. let is soak overnight, voilà
https://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY
This stuff, Grunge Off, my friend uses is unbelievable. http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY he first uses an alcohol-Epsom salt-420cleaner mix then rinse with water and does a final rinse with the grunge off to keep the glass smelling nice and looking shiny.
use these! solid and fairly cheap for two of them, I use them all the time with my m and they work a dream
https://www.amazon.com/Vertigo-Cyclone-Triple-Lighter-Charcoal/dp/B00LJVW0FW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=triple+torch&qid=1569868879&sr=8-3
I like buying refillable lighters because bics have way too much plastic. I've got one of these guys with a bit of hemp wick wrapped around it, secured by a hair tie. Giant fluid reservoir and it's handy for melting the ends of rope and stuff.
ETA: My lighter rig
I, like you, had a cheap single-flame torch when i first got my Dynavap. I hated how long it took for me to hear it up as well, especially in windy or cold areas. I found these triple flame torches with great reviews on amazon and decided to order them. They come two to a pack at around $15 for the pack. So far, they’re very reliable, but I’m not too worried about that since they come with a lifetime warranty. and heat up my M much, much faster than my original single flame lighter.
amazon has a 2 pack of them for 17, but i swear it was 12 yesterday
I haven’t ordered any dual torches from Amazon, but I’ve had a good experience with this Vertigo triple torch.
My system specs are: 8 12volt 100ah AGM batteries wired in series parallel to 48volts https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=solar+battery&qid=1560105771&s=gateway&sr=8-3
&#x200B;
Charge controller is Epever 80 amp mppt https://www.amazon.com/EPEVER-Controller-1000-4000W-Negative-Regulator/dp/B07KP5BY11
It sounds like when you add milk to rice crispies cereal.... I have read AGM should make no noise. Thanks for the response.
I personally recommend going with these to avoid the lead acid issues ScreamingEel mentioned. I just checked camelcamelcamel and they have gotten as low as 125 a piece. They were actually 125 yesterday, which is a killer deal. I think I paid 180 a piece :(
If you want a single battery, get a 100ah lithium iron phosphate... its gonna cost you though...
AGM batteries are only useful for 50% of their advertised AH rating vs like 80%+ for Lifepo, also lifepo are lighter weight, and have more recharge cycles.
I run 2 of these right now to get 100 useful AH, and I am hopeful that in ~3 years when its time to get new batteries the cost of LifePo will have come down b/c they really are vastly superior in every way.
First off, to answer your question:
That's almost certainly a flooded battery. It's probably a, "maintenance free" flooded battery. This simply means of course, that it's a piece of junk because you can never add water to it. It'll still off-gas like a normal flooded one though. So not good for indoor use really.
&#x200B;
Second, you don't want those batteries:
You really need something that's actually deep cycle, not one of those 'hybrid' types used for starting a motor and running a few lights on a boat. You can tell because it states the "CCA" or Cold Cranking Amps. This is a starter battery, not a true deep cycle. It's also a very cheap one, which doesn't bode well for it's performance either in your application.
I'd advise you return those batteries and buy some good, true deep cycle, AGM batteries.
&#x200B;
This is more in line with what you want, most likely:
Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12V
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/
&#x200B;
EDIT:
So, here's an (well, maybe) easy test: Pick up the battery and shake it around. If the battery 'sloshes' like it's full of water, then it's flooded for sure. If it doesn't... well, no guarantee either way still.
Note, this will take quite a bit of strength, careful not to hurt yourself.
&#x200B;
EDIT 2:
So, I've called the local Advance Auto Parts here in my town, and they THINK it's an AGM battery... though the lady didn't sound too sure. Still looking for a data sheet though, that's the only thing I'd trust at the moment without seeing the battery myself.
Much appreciated! I'm in the US so that doesn't work for me, I've found a 100ah on amazon for the same price though. I think there's a UK alternative too
> I want a brushed motor because that is the old kind that would be period specific technology.
Kind of; the first practical DC motor was built in 1886 and Tesla patented his induction motor in 1887. The modern AC induction motor was patented in 1889 and by 1900 they had surpassed DC motors in stationary applications.
By the time the Model T came out induction motors were more common than DC motors, but you're right that moving motors (cars, trains) were all DC until the 50s. The reason is that DC motors are the only motors that can be well-controlled by varying their voltage. That meant they could be controlled by rheostats and variable voltage. If they were focused on efficiency they'd have taps that would connect more and more batteries in series for a higher voltage.
Taps and rheostats are gonna make for an unpleasant driving experience, but if that's worth it to you then go for it. If you can show off the end of the motor in a cool way then that would be awesome, but do be aware that the best case efficiency of a setup like this is <50%. That's using a commercial, modern motor. I'd recommend you check this paper out, it lays out different motor efficiencies.
> I want to make a simple brushed permanent magnet motor like this I would fabricate everything myself with my cousin who works at a local machine shop and can use it on weekends.
Magnets are the easy part, unfortunately. The steel is much more important and a lot harder to get. You can get laminations made but that'll run you into $XX,XXX pretty easily IIRC. Doesn't hurt to ask though.
If you're considering using a normal low-carbon steel, don't. The drag at 1 Tesla (probably less than your magnets) and 3000 RPM is around 600 watts/kg to hysteresis alone. You'll be burning 25-75 horsepower just to cruise, the motor would need liquid cooling and a car-sized radiator, and that isn't even counting the other losses. You need a real core to make a motor like this.
> I'm asking about what kind of specs are needed for a motor to get about 50hp at around 600RPM.
I don't have time to do the math right now, but that would require some actual design work. Motors prefer to run in the 1000s of RPM, particularly DC motors. Low speeds like that are better for induction motors or even switched-DC motors. A slow DC motor would have to be very, very large.
> I only want a 10 mile range because that is plenty for my daily driving.
Modern electric cars get ~300 Wh/mile, but this setup would run closer to 1000-1600 Wh/mile. You'll also want a large buffer capacity to avoid sulfation, so ~1500 Ah is probably reasonable. Using these batteries that's around $2550 and 960 lbs of batteries.
Ah. $100 for 8 amp hours (80% of 10 ah). That's not nearly as much power as the ones I linked. $170 for 50ah (50% of 100ah). I'll keep recommending the agms for the time being
edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/
Depends on your needs. Renogy has great kits at decent prices, you can get the parts a bit cheaper off Amazon but then there's no warranty.
If you're just looking to charge stuff and run a fridge and water pump, 200w is a good place to start. Get the panels, tape them up on the roof using VHB tape (seriously, it's the best way to do it without punching a shitload of holes in the roof, and the tape is extremely strong).
Follow the wiring diagram from Renogy for wiring up the batteries (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ are the cheapest watt/dollar that you'll find for sealed batteries. I'd recommend sealed over unsealed, adding water etc is a pain in the ass and if you forget the batteries are dead) and the inverter.
Remember, every wire exiting a power source must have a fuse within the first two feet of wire, and every wire must be gauged to handle the max amp load it will face, and must be fused at less than that gauge wire is rated for. Follow those three rules and it'll all be safe if not necessarily pretty. Good luck, and feel free to ask me any questions if they come up!
https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK
Don't buy another name brand magic eraser. These are identical at a fraction of the cost. I use these for LITERALLY EVERYTHING. Countertop, stove, use them on my feet my shoes my car. It is the BEST cleaning utility of my lifetime.
Got a white board that won't wipe clean? Take some windex and scrub the board with an eraser, apply a new coat of whiteboard finisher and bam, just saved yourself $40.
I can't sing the praises of this item enough.
You're welcome 😁
100Pcs/lot ERASER CLEANER MAGIC MELAMINE SPONGE CLEANING 10x6x2CM https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00XC32NMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E6HwCbSTEVNW7
They arrive in a big bag, but each sponge is individually wrapped.
And get yelled at by cost-conscious wife about why you spent nearly $1/sponge for a Magic Eraser® when you could have gotten the Melamine sponges 100 pack for $8 which is the exact same thing?
This is my favorite lighter, it's a triple flame, so it's good for everything except getting the milkiest hits out of a water piece. For thick bong rips I suggest using a single flame. I have an honest single flame torch from my sticky brick. Works super great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJVW0FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RM2yCb3GQJFHX
https://www.amazon.com/Vertigo-Cyclone-Triple-Lighter-Charcoal/dp/B00LJVW0FW
Also it could be the butane that you use. I had the same issues before and then I did some research and that is usually the problem. Buy good butane like Vector 14x or Xikar high performance high altitude. I used lesser brands before and through away lighters, luckily they weren’t expensive. Also make sure you bleed the lighter fully before each refill. But I have two of those lighters I linked and they work flawlessly.
Vertigo by Lotus Cyclone Triple Torch Cigar Lighter Charcoal 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJVW0FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LEPNAbMS6KRM6
$18 - 2pack of triple torch lighters. I’ve had them for months with daily use. If you use good quality butane (like your Colibri) they should last. Went through 4 lighters in a month before I found these.
Just buy this lighter. Dynavap also uses these for some of their kits, but you can just get two of them for less than 9 bucks each here, and they work great. All my cigar-smoking friends swear by them too.
for solar ventilation i use
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N5L2GM9/ref=twister_B01DEE9AMM?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
with 2 of these
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and this fan
https://smile.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-01100WH-Endless-Breeze-Stand/dp/B0000AY2Z6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485406650&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=12v+fan
The batteries are AGM(https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518147239&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=100ah+deep+cycle+battery) and the controller is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015ZBODDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 The solar is completely separate from the vans electricity so that wont be an issue. The charge controller and the inverter both display the voltage but I also have a multimeter I can double check with. I set the battery type but I don't see any option for setting the AH. I assumed it wouldn't need to know the AH since it would just turn off once the voltage was high enough. I have the PV off set to 13.7.
This is what I use, 100Ah https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZuLHxbJYEQCWX
Get a sealed deep cycle battery. No maintenance and worry free.
I don't power much. Pump for sink, roof fan, lights, and my electronics so 100 was enough for me. I would say 150 should do the trick and might be too much but you'll need to calculate all that to be sure.
These guys are a great resource to learn about solar. It's geared toward RVs, but because they aren't tech people, the information is very digestible which I like. This video shows them with a 6 panel array drawing 45amps during the day at peak hours.
Chances are, if you go a-la-carte with something like these portable solar panels as a base, and ran a few of these deep cycle batteries in parallel, you'll save some money and be able to better tune the system to your needs. You'll still need a solar controller and if you want 120v plugs, an inverter, but it should be a fun project.
Or 1200 watts for $180 or $0.14 per watt. Its slightly larger and you can use cheap chargers on it. Lithium maybe the future but the price point is too high for most unless what you're doing is really minimal.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493771440&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=100+battery+deep
What are you going to run at 120V? That is not minimal. Using an cell phone battery is great for charging cell phones, not much else.
Yes, just a day sailor.
I found the book on Amazon so I'll definitely order it and give it a good read.
This wire is about $90 for 100ft of 12awg triplex wire.
https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-Grade-Duplex-Cables/dp/B000NV2AVS
And would a single 100Ah battery like this one be sufficient with a 50W solar panel for what I'm trying to do?
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/
Y que tal estas baterías?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C&amp;ved=2ahUKEwja76SzjYXiAhVyTt8KHcoGBt4QFjAAegQIBhAB&amp;usg=AOvVaw1u9QKt1uQYFQ4Lq4Jcd4MN
Buy a couple large deep cycle batteries and a battery tender to keep them charged
For example, this battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ is 100ah at 12v, which is roughly 1200 watt hours. For comparison, A 3.7v 20,000 mah phone power bank is 74 watt hours.
Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Cigarette-Terminal-Accessory-Inflator/dp/B07CQMQL9L/ to allow using your car charger with a standalone battery.
Add a 100w solar kit: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Negative-Controller-Connectors/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ if you expect sunny weather during your power outages
Yes! Two of these: Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
If I had enough space I'd get more. When I upgrade to a van I'll probably switch to lithium batteries.
I think this was what guy here recommended for battery
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=pd_cp_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00S1RT58C&amp;pd_rd_r=TEBEV98G9RP9FWKTHNHV&amp;pd_rd_w=oGJXw&amp;pd_rd_wg=atYQq&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=TEBEV98G9RP9FWKTHNHV
Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EN.MDbTQK4FCC
KRIËGER 1100 Watt 12V Power Inverter Dual 110V AC Outlets, Installation Kit Included, Automotive Back Up Power Supply For Blenders, Vacuums, Power Tools MET Approved According to UL and CSA. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T564EIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8O.MDbT2DB8FY
Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel (New Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFMBF3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bTBZDb1FFV9EY
EPEVER MPPT Solar Charge Controller 40A 150V PV Solar Panel Controller Negative Ground W/ MT50 Remote Meter + Temperature Sensor PC Monitoring Cable[Tracer4215BN] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07429RK43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LTBZDbQ4VNMAZ
Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AUBZDbEKFZ000
The cheapest and easiest thing would be to buy a 4000 watt generator..
You've made it clear you don't want to run a generator. You'll want at least 120-200 amp hours in batteries. Pulling 30a, on one battery from 100% to 40% will kill that battery real quick. Having two will spread the load and extend the lifetime of the batteries. Wire a 10 amp battery charger that you plug an extension cord into every night.
Have a 4000 watt inverter, pure sine not modified, otherwise you will use 120-150 amps in battery power, just to get 60 amps into the scooters (massive efficiency loss). Have that hooked up to your two deep cycle batteries. Run a power strip and plug in all your scooter chargers. Then when your home plug in the shore power to recharge your batteries.
OR BUY A GENERATOR
I found this site, http://amsolar.com, to have a lot of good product options and a whole of info for learning about solar in RVS or in our case vans.
For cheap batteries I was going with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S1RT58C/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_2_9?colid=1TNL6GP91VEH0&amp;coliid=I38YJA2080NKGR
Since it is 12V you don't have to stay even in numbers.
As far as solar don't forget your van has an alternator that charges batteries.How much it will charge depends on how much you drive daily, the size of the alternator, and the load demand from you vans accessories on it. Just make sure to get a battery isolator. This may lessen the amount of solar you need.
I'm open to suggestions, but I don't know of any new options that can beat them in that category. Used can be cheaper of course.
My normal recommendation is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C these guys, which blow lithium out of the water watt per dollar, and the walmart batteries are even cheaper. I don't normally recommend them because they're unsealed, which is a pain, and includes the risk of destroying it early by forgetting about maintenance, but they are the same capacity for $70 less.
Lithium lasts longer than lead acid (7-10 years vs 3-5), and you can safely use 80% of the nominal capacity without damaging their lifespan instead of just 50% of it for lead acid, but the price difference is still too high to make it worth it.
Since lithium gives you 1.6x the usable capacity (80/50), and lasts twice as long, that results in a price premium factor of 2.6. Aka, a 100 amp hour lithium battery is worth 2.6x the price of a 100ah lead-acid battery. Or, saying that differently, you would have to buy 2.6 100 amp hour lead-acid batteries to get the same capacity over their lifespan as you would get from one 100 amp hour lithium battery over it's lifespan. Lasts 2x as long, and provides .6x more power for the same nominal capacity.
With that said, the lithium equivalent to that walmart battery would be a $260 100ah LiFePo4 battery.
Renogy sells a 100 amp hour LiFePo4 for $899. The cheapest sketchy ebay one I can find is $500 after shipping. Lead acid still rules for capacity by price, by far. Unless, of course, you have a better source than I do
Only real adjustments to this I'd suggest; for charging off the car's alternator, just go with a solenoid. It's cheaper, won't drain your car's battery at all (the smart isolaters do draw a small amount of power all the time), and if you can give your car a jump start if needed by turning the key and letting the house battery charge the car battery. And there's no downsides. Smart isolaters are a waste imo.
Also, save $30 and get the unbranded version of that battery. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C
Same specs I believe so it's probably even made in the same factory in China. I've had great results with mine the past few years
THESE are the batteries I have.
Thank you so much! That is incredibly helpful information.
Hypothetically if I were planning to spend about $700 on the solar setup and batteries do you think I would be smarter to save a bit of money on the controller by going PWM rather and MPPT and put it into an extra panel? I could do 3 panels, and 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S1RT58C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488126321&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=12v+solar+battery AGM 12v 100ah batteries. Price would be similar to the golf cart batteries. Would this setup be an improvement?
Also found a good deal on a DC fridge that consumes about 4.2amps which at 12v would be about 50watts and should theoretically be awesome for my setup right?
Do you think
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S1RT58C/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496172956&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=12v+105ah+agm+battery
Two of these ? It looks like the battery I have i couldn't say for sure though
You'll want an AGM deep cycle battery, not standard car battery. Doesn't really matter what the terminals are like since you can always buy different terminal types. I bought two of these from Amazon for about $170 each before tax and have been happy with them. I've also looked into used lithium batteries from medical devices, but it gets more complicated because you need a battery management system.
It gets expensive if you build a 400ah system, so I would look more into energy efficient devices or solutions. I did a google search for raising chickens in cold weather and it actually says don't over insulate or heat the coop. You said oneconcern is the water freezing, so maybe just focus on that.
https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK
Here is your magic eraser. Only without label. Probably 10 times cheaper on aliexpress (if you ignore shipping).
You can buy 100 of those for $12 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK
How about $12 for 100? Works just as well as the name brand...
https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK
I cant beleive nobody has mentioned this:
https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK
Seriously makes cleaning SO much easier.
I use a [melanine sponge] (https://www.amazon.com/Baoer-100Pcs-Melamine-Cleaning-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK) myself and it works pretty well.
Does anyone have any experience using cheap melamine sponges to clean their tanks? Specifically the generic ones you can buy in bulk like these. I'm mainly concerned about them deteriorating inside the tank while I'm using them.
Best tank cleaning purchase I have made! Acrylic safe too!
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.com/USMYTHA-Melamine-Cleaning-Multi-Functional-10x6x2CM/dp/B00XC32NMK&amp;ved=2ahUKEwiy0qPy4oLlAhVog-AKHdvzB6kQFjAAegQIAhAB&amp;usg=AOvVaw1bGWfw6w4-Ildnbbs8ow7w&amp;cshid=1570197883990
That's fucking awful, I would be absolutely livid if that happened to my kitty. Seems like the same thing the sponges are made of after all.
Actually they make this cleaner that gets every ounce of resin off of glass pieces. Works amazingly well.
Grunge Off
http://smile.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451963359&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Grunge+Off
Grunge off
Best shit out there no messy salt every where and smells like oranges, just submerge, for 20 min and good as new.
I speed up the process just a half cup and swish it around till all is gone 10 min max, brand new.
Can I make a suggestion?
Pick up a bottle of Grundge Off.
It's a little more pricey, but it works way better with way less effort...AND its reusable! I've been using the same bottle since last July on a weekly basis and it still works great! It works way better than iso and salt ever worked for me, is cheaper in the long run, and no weird after taste.
mos def, pick up some of this shit, I soak my glass in this stuff all the time keeps it looking new and smellin fresh http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY
honestly, this stuff works wonders
http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1374728391&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=grunge+off
let it sit in the bong for 30 minutes or so then pour it out and rinse with hot water, works sooooo much better than isopropyl. The best part is you can pour it back into the bottle and reuse it, I have been using the same bottle for ~6 months.
Personally I don't like this stuff cause of the residue left behind. It's also been a long time since I've used it and I know a lot of ents that swear by it.
I prefer to use a product called Grunge Off which has always worked well for me and is a great value for what you get.
I use these and zen pipe cleaners, good stuff... also this
This. You would have to cut off the longer threads though, so it doesnt grab them and cause runs in the fabric. These things are awesome.
Remington Fuzz-Away Fabric Shaver, RTFS-2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034BV6KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SvprDb5ME6MYZ
I got this [fabric shaver](Remington Fuzz-Away Fabric Shaver, RTFS-2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034BV6KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7GhcAbSCDPD1P) to depill my scrubs but I have also used it on knit items it works pretty well unless you have very large pills
Fabric shaver
They make shavers designed especially for this purpose.
I've got three cats, no amount of lint rolling gets all the fuzz and hair off my clothes. It's just something you have to go with. If a regular lint roller doesn't cut it you could try one of these automated lint removers mainly for pilling on fabric, though. Or one of these magic lint brushes
The fuzzies are called pilling, and you have to shave them off. There are fabric shavers you can get for pretty cheap
You could try washing and drying it first to see if it cuts down on the fluff. If that doesn't work, you could try using a sweater shaver to take off the extra fluff.
probably the easiest
Game Changer
You need a sweater shaver. No that’s not a typo. This is an example. www.amazon.com/dp/B0034BV6KA/ They are really effective at cutting this stuff off, just don’t push too hard or you could break the fabric surface.
If you have high carpet, you can use a fuzz shaver. I just had my house painted and used something like this to shave the carpet fibers that had the paint spots. Worked a lot better than stain remover that just spreads the paint to a larger spot and also bleaches the carpet.
Thrift store cashmere. You can almost always find real cashmere sweaters at the thrift shop. They end up there because 1) they are pilling or 2) they are sporting a few moth holes. Buy a cheap electric depiller from amazon. Then learn to thread a needle; holes in wool are super easy to hand sew.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034BV6KA/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
You could try a fabric shaver, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0034BV6KA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538433466&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=fabric+shaver&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41-0iz2efCL&amp;ref=plSrch
It may work well in getting rid of the hairs
Fabric shavers.
Here is one
I use this electronic goop stuff https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00375JBL4
Cyber-clean cleaning thing
I doubt that.
(...but, yes, I do realize fully I'm much more of the exception than the rule.)
As a more expensive alternative to chewing gum: Cyber Clean Putty?
Relevant user review here.
http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
Maybe??
lipgloss is a oily crappy substance.
https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4
good for mixing boards too (lots of knobs)
https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485918676&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=keyboard+putty
The way i do it, i turn my keyboard upside down (keys facing the desk) and i shake it (left to right, up down) which brings a lot of dirt out. I don't think there is any other way without ruining warranty. This might work as well
I remember trying a product called [Cyber Putty] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00375JBL4) a while back and I found that that worked really well. Sometimes there was remaining putty on the keyboard but nothing you couldn't get rid of with another roll of the putty. It was always difficult to get in between the keys but this pretty much did the job. The best part was that it was reusable...up to a certain point.
I haven't tried it but this putty seems pretty cool:
Putty
IMHO antistatic cleaning putty (like this https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Clean-25055-Office-Pop-up/dp/B00375JBL4 ) is by far the best thing to clean controllers, especially when they're greasy from chipsfingers or have little dust or other particles in the tiny slits you can't regularly clean.
The putty costs like 10 bucks and usually lasts around a year before it dries out (depending on how often you clean I guess).
You can try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00375JBL4/
I don't guarantee that it doesn't damage your MacBook though.
This stuff. You may need to do a little rubbing with a paper towel, but it does work well.
I use leather honey on all my leather goods. Shoes, my couch, motorcycle gear, sword handles, etc, etc.
Hello all, I have been wearing faux leather all my life from Zara and I just got my 1st real leather jacket, Koopes Leather Bomber Jacket!
Need some advice on leather cleaner and conditioner since I never cleaned or conditioned my faux leather jackets before. There didn't seem to be a good search results on leather cleaning and conditioning or I must have missed it. From most of the threads I read, it seems like the brand name doesn't matter as much for cleaner and conditioner, but sounds like it is important to NOT use my boots conditioner due to silicone.
My lamb skin jacket did not feel as stiff as my faux leather which I really liked since I want something comfortable for usual wear rather than a stiff jacket with a bit more durability.
My research shows Saddle soap may be a great cleaner and Lexol cleaner and conditioner seem to be a great option too. I read Leather Honey is a great conditioner, albeit the premium price!
I wanted to ask the experts at r/MFA what they personally recommend for lamb skin leather:
Edit: Also, I just wanted to confirm that Dry Cleaning leather jackets is NOT okay. I read it may dry and/or crack the leather. Is this true? Sounds like I should just use the cleaner and conditioner once or twice a year?
This will help with the dry and wrinkled leather.
https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Furniture-Accessories/dp/B003IS3HV0
can i use this to care for by Clarks db beewax? Anything else besides applying this once in a while?
http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Since-Bottle/dp/B003IS3HV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396921175&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=leather+oil
This stuff will be used right after its dry..
What you are looking for is Leather Honey. I do mine about once every four months. Before conditioning, brush off dirt and then wipe with damp cloth until the leather darkens just a bit. A little goes a long way.
Amazon. Thousands of good reviews.
Hi girls! So I bought a black Gucci Soho Disco from Joy about a year ago. Honestly do not love the quality because when compared to an auth. the leather isn't as supple/buttery, and a well used auth. sort of falls into itself whereas my version is still super stiff and boxy, even after I've used it a lot. I'm not even sure if it's real leather, but it just goes with SO many outfits, so I still wear it quite a bit.
I was wondering if anyone had any advice on how to try to condition the leather on your reps to make them look more authentic/improve the look of the leather? I was looking on Amazon and found this, which has a bunch of good reviews but wanted to know if anyone had any better suggestions?
https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Furniture-Accessories/dp/B003IS3HV0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519753442&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=leather+conditioner&amp;psc=1
Thanks so much!!!
Good to know, thanks. So if I used this one the shoes maybe twice a year:
https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Since-Half-Pint/dp/B003IS3HV0
They could last for 3-4 years?
https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Furniture-Accessories/dp/B003IS3HV0
I saw this from another post on RL. Works pretty well.
There is also an
all naturalnon-toxic product called Leather Honey. It's been around for a long time.I've found it to be very useful on all types of leather, from my cowhide backpack, my SO's new winter boots, and my deerskin moccasins. It does tend to darken the leather you apply it to significantly. I've applied it to several of my things several times each and have not yet used a quarter of the bottle. However, I keep a small rag about 2x2 inches in a zipped bag and it's well saturated. I think this helps with not wasting the product.
I think you need to be careful with what you use to condition and recondition leather, especially old leather. Sometimes you might apply something and it works great, but you discover in a couple of years that the leather has begun to rot.
Do what you wish, but be aware that the tanning process (a preservative) can break down over time. When you try to restore your leather, you want to penetrate it with leather-friendly moisture that will not chemically undo the tanning.
Finally, whatever method you decide to do, test an inconspicuous area and wait a few hours. If you like what you see, gently apply your conditioning product (boughten or home made) and let it sit overnight. Sometimes I'll set the item a few feet in front of a space heater to gently warm the leather for a few hours.
I've also been known to use a hair blow dryer on seams to make sure it's penetrating well. Too close will just make it dry and crack. Reapply the next day, and let it soak in. Keep doing this slowly and patiently, until you see that your leather is not absorbing any more. Let it sit another day, then heat it a bit and begin to gently buff away any excess reconditioning material.
You should be left with something pretty amazing.
Best of luck!
I am also new to leather boots! Mine were getting scuffed/discolored from normal wear and tear, so I used Meltonian boot cream to a) restore the color and b) provide a bit of waterproofing (since it's wax-based).
I also have Leather Honey leather conditioner, which I've used on a purse and my Birkenstocks. It definitely does darken the leather, so if you're attached to the exact shade you have now, I wouldn't recommend conditioning.
Leather Honey is pretty well reviewed as a leather conditioner: http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Since-Bottle/dp/B003IS3HV0
I've used this as a cure-all so far, and it has never let me down. Perfect on all smooth or rugged leather (although careful with the raw leather, it will become smooth after 2 coats!).
http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Best-Bottle/dp/B003IS3HV0
So should I use mink oil, or not? Is it for something completely different?
So far, it looks like I'm getting this, this, and this. Should I get a shoe conditioner like this, too?
Sounds like a good answer. I'm assuming that you can't go wrong with either, as the design is fairly simple/similar. My only regret for not going with aliengear was the price so far, but I'm perfectly happy with my galco.
Something you might be interested in:
http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Since-Bottle/dp/B003IS3HV0
Is this the same as neatsfoot oil for CXM upkeep?
Simple question: Any consensus on using Leather Honey for good boots? I've used it and it worked fine on some leather items, but I managed to over-condition some pieces and it really darkened some veg-tanned leather.
What conditioner/cream should I be looking at if I want to make sure not to darken brown/tan leather?
I recently got this beeswax shoe polish and I really like it!
http://www.amazon.com/Robsons-Beeswax-Polish-Small-black/dp/B002PINOZI/
I also use this to condition my leather:
http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Honey-Conditioner-Furniture-Accessories/dp/B003IS3HV0/
Most mink oil will do. I have had great success with this, and this, it also helps that it is free shipping with amazon prime.
I wouldn't call myself a cook by any means. Give me a stove, pan, and I'll show you some burnt food ;) I got in to sous vide cooking to take the guess work out cooking. It was one of the best decisions I've made this year. I can cook steak to a perfect 134 degree medium rare steak through and through, it's amazing. Chicken also a favorite of mine too, it comes out so tender and juicy and it just falls apart on your fork.
If anyone's interested in a diy setup on the cheap just buy [ziploc vacuum pump kit]{http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370916055&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ziploc+vacuum+pump} for 5 bucks. Then get any old thermos ice chest, they work amazing at holding in heat. Just fill the thermos to the desired temp (140 med) water, then check it every 10 minutes or so and add hot water if needed. After 1 hour of cooking you'll have an amazingly tender perfectly cooked steak. Also it doesn't hurt to smoke while your waiting for it cook :)
google around there's a bunch of DIY guides and they'll list cooking time and temps.
I use this for sous-vide. The bags are reusable.
For $5 you can get a hand pump and some special bags made by Zip-lock. I use these all the time, but note that the bags are slightly more expensive than standard ones (there's a small one-way valve on them). But result is less air in the bag so less floating, and never really need a powered vacuum though it is still nice for giant cooks like pork shoulder.
You're welcome :-)
My Foodsaver vac sealer was $80ish at Walmart a couple years ago... I've definitely gotten my money's worth out of it, BUT had I known about this I totally would have gotten it instead. If you do decide to go with the table-top model, I highly recommend Foodsaver over Ziploc (returned 2 faulty Ziploc ones before biting the bullet and spending a bit more on the Foodsaver), BUT use the Ziploc sealing material (the Foodsaver material is hard to cut).
You can buy a separate vacuum sealer gizmo (an extra $100 or so, plus bags). This can also be used to improve food preservation and storage.
But Kenji on serious eats has described a method involving dipping a ziploc in water before sealing it shut, so the water pushes the air out, and then eventually said to just use the new product ziploc put out. That's hardly more than the cost of a regular ziploc bag.
Ziploc makes vacuum seal bags with hand pumps! They're what I use. They're great.
http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415290541&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ziploc+vacuum+kit
I find they do lose the seal, but very slowly and has only been a problem with storage of food, not sous vide.
If you're on a really tight budget, I bought this from Walmart and it hasnt let me down yet.
http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG
http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377408035&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ziploc+hand+pump+vacuum
this with the gallon sized bags. they loose their seal after about 30 minutes so you have to make modifications.
pulling the air out and then taping over the vacuum port with clear packing tape lets them keep a pretty good hold.
These: Wide Mouth Mason Jars
This: FoodSaver Wide-Mouth Jar Sealer
This: Ziploc Vacuum Starter Kit
Also for the hops, if you aren't going to buy a food saver, these are cheap enough that they are worth it. It will really be better to purge the air from the hops bags. Probably the grains too, so you don't get that weird ice crystal shit going on, and end up with soggy defrosted gross grains.
https://smile.amazon.com/Ziploc-Vacuum-Starter-3-Quart-1-Pump/dp/B003UEMFUG
Just pretend like the meat is your tablet or smartphone. Having a dedicated device for bath time reading reduces bag waste, saving you money and helping the environment.
I use the zip lock freezer ones that you can suck the air out of. But you have to fold and rubber band it so the zipper and the hole you suck the air out of doesn't have a chance to leak.
So it's take a ounce or so of hop pellets put them in the zip lock bag. Seal. Pump the air out. Fold towards the bottom of the bag to seal off the zip. Fold over again to seal off the hole. Then fold the loose bag from the side and then rubber band the bag to keep the folds. This works pretty well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003UEMFUG/ref=mp_s_a_1_8_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473725657&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=ziploc+vacuum+bags+quart
Somebody pointed out a cheap/nice solution to me that seems to keep my hops fresh.
Put hops 4oz. of hops in jar, put inner canning lid on, suck out all the air with the pump, then put the outer lid on and store in freezer.
You could always get a vacuum sealer instead, but I like the low tech approach. If any one piece breaks I am out $10 at the most. Nothing has broken in 2 years of use.
Seems like a good idea. Width and height are right, but what about depth? If I stack my battery and phone, it easily doubles the depth. I could buy one for a tablet, but is that going to be deep enough? I might just go for this instead. http://amzn.com/B003UEMFUG I know a quart bag is JUST enough to hold my Nexus 4 in its wallet case and external battery. But you are right about the swiping. An unvacuumed bag makes it very hard to glyph hack.
https://www.amazon.com/Boxes-PRE-ROLLED-tips-Total-Tips/dp/B00HWFTF2A/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473643329&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=filters+rolling
These are pre rolled one and then there are these
https://www.amazon.com/Rolling-Papers-Filter-Booklets-Standard/dp/B005JFFY02
I mean, you can buy 500 RAW tips from Amazon for REALLY CHEAP
Honestly, Amazon.com(.au) will likely be the most affordable place around. Here is a box of Double Platinum Blunt Wraps - Various Flavors 25 Packs (50 Wraps) for £16.93. That is what, about two dollars cheaper per pack than you are paying at the local shop?
If you are willing to pay the shipping cost to order the product from the US you can score some amazing deals on various products. For example, you can get 64 "RAW King Size Organic" rolling papers, a 110mm "RAW Organic" branded rolling machine, and a book of 50 "RAW Organic" filter tips for about $6(AUD). You can also order an extra 512 "RAW King Size Organic" rolling papers and 500 "RAW Organic" filter tips for about $15(AUD).
In the event that you want glass pieces you could always try Etsy. Many sellers are individuals just looking to sell their art. I am sure you could easily make shipping arrangements by contacting the individual. Here is a sick Piranha Plant pipe, a Pineapple Chillum that looks impossible to use, and a wicked Earth-tone pipe with Mandala designs on it.
Not if you use a tip/crutch/filter like these
I'd say a grinder or maybe some joint papers or blunt wraps. If they dab maybe a new nail or a dab tool or silicone wax container. If they're a bong guy get a bowl and maybe a hempwick lighter with a spool of hemp wick if it's in you're budget. Here's and this some joint papers and tips. If possible I'd try to make your SS isn't a a kid living with his parents don't wanna get him in trouble haha
Yo bro, I got you!
First Rolling Papers
Second thing for sure is Filters
Now you need a grinder and there's a lot of good ones out there, this is the one I went with a few years back and I still use it all of the time, plus it came with a pollen press but... It's a bit pricey!
I'm gonna give you the rest of my typical setup that are less used by others and just the "little things"
*Get yourself a magnifying glass man. One of my all time favorite activities while I'm high with friends or even by myself is to just check out this dank skunk beautiful in front of me y'know? I went a step further and just recently bought a full on microscope.
Alright so that's the basic shiznit my man. On a side note I'd recommend just giving vaporizers a try if you have the resources. I just recently made the switch to a PAX2 from a grav water pipe. Let me tell you the transition has been beautiful. Anyways, I hope this was helpful. Toke care, pal.
Buy a pack of tips booklets, and roll to size to fit inside the rolled paper
Raw Tips
[raw cones] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HRF578G/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1417226607&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40)
[RAW tips] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005JFFY02/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1417226913&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40)
[Raw papers] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002MZ1BU4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1417226913&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70)
I am lucky enough to supervise a lab that has the instrumentation to check a sample for lead. The downside is that I did have to work with heavy metals (with proper protective equipment) while pregnant. If you do not have access to an environmental lab, try THIS.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511894741&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=lead+test+kit
>lead in the sliding tracks of the old double hung wooden sash windows (which we are leaving closed for now).
Old windows like that are the worst for lead dust production.
Wet mopping followed by tack cloth is one of the ideal ways to ensure you're cleaning up the site as best as possible.
The "trick" we're taught in the cert class regarding swab testing:
But a lead test kit like this. Instead of dabbing the end of the tester on the scores in the paint you've made (you do know that in order to test for lead paint you have to score down to the base material, because testing the top layer of paint alone doesn't give accurate results), you squeeze out the testing liquid onto q-tips and then swab the q-tips onto the surface you desire to test.
It is possible to get up to about 8 q-tips sufficiently wet with the test liquid to perform tests, which means you can perform about 8 tests per tube of test fluid.
If in doubt about the results, retest a spot directly with a full tube.
Regarding your vac, just to be clear...did it come with a certificate stating what RRP tests it passed?
The way HD's description reads doesn't clearly indicate that. Want to make sure you're not being mislead by the vendor.
You should be able to find something like this in your vac literature:
>Certified to meet EPA RRP standards: IEST-RP-CC001.5 insuring a minimum filtration efficiency of 99.97% at 0.3 micron
The write up for the Rigid vac just says it "Meets the EPA's definition of a HEPA vacuum under the RRP rule for lead paint renovations".
It doesn't state that it is certified for use. I would follow up on that if I was in your position.
Buy a test kit
This is the test kit. It's the 3M LeadCheck Instant Lead Test Swabs. I believe they're in one of the paint aisles.
You can also order them from Amazon.
Lead tests are cheap and easy to get - https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496777788&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=lead+test
You can get lead check test strips from places like Amazon and some hardware stores. I don't know how accurate or precise they are. I think I've also seen kits that are more water quality tests that you can send off for analysis available in hardware stores.
You may want to test for lead in
Paint
and Tap Water
Get some of these
Splurge on a $25 LeadCheck kit. It will tell you in about a minute if there is any lead there.
If you're buying a set from the late 1800s, it's most likely a 95%Silver/5%Copper alloy, but who knows?
Pure silver was really big in the late 19th century, when the Comstock Lode was discovered, and suddenly there was so much pure silver that it was cheap enough to make dishware out of. Some shady merchants sold fake silver also, so it's worthwhile to spend a few bucks on a test.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-717834209102DUPE-LeadCheck-Swabs-8-Pack/dp/B008BK15PU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=27P4O5BC3N1XW&amp;keywords=lead+test+kit&amp;qid=1554428106&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=lead+&amp;sr=8-3
Would these lead strips work to test my kratom? I must admit, this is concerning.
this is the one I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/Vector-Thunderbird-Butane-Torch-Insert/dp/B008Z8W714
It's a 3rd party insert for a zippo. Cost me about $10, I believe. Butane is much better than zippo fluid, which leaks and dries out quickly.
I have a Vector Thunderbird insert in my zippo. I bought it three years ago and haven't needed to fill it since I installed it. Evaporation is not a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_1BMADbAD50BDF
Also, while they are one time use, the Orion fire pit pro works reeeeeaaally well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7RCVBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_kFMADbEZEJZ6S
I used TechFlex 1/8" 25 feet from Amazon.
I used VKTech heatshrink.
I could have done a much better job on the heatshrink on both ends of the cable, however I didn't have time to use my heat gun so I used my Zippo with a Thunderbird butane insert.
It turned out pretty good in my opinion, however like I said, I could have done a much better job.
I have one of these things. Now I just need to find a coin that's mostly copper...
Get yourself a case (knock off or authentic) and put this in it: https://www.amazon.com/Vector-Thunderbird-Butane-Torch-Insert/dp/B008Z8W714
Single torch like you specified. Butane burns pretty hot (hotter than naphtha which is used in standard Zippos and can leak from an over filled lighter), plus it's hermetic so no need to worry about constant refuelling no matter how rarely you use it.
Sounds like your friend got a piezoelectric lighter, which is imho far more effective for the 'torch' mechanism than flint and steel. You can use a spark wheel for the same effect but getting a flame can be difficult and it feels awkward in your hand which is why there aren't many on the market.
Plenty of blue steel cases out there. Good luck on that snake bit.
This would be the one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Ii.7wbB91RHE5
I have had very bad luck with butane lighters. I think I have gone through close to 10 in the last few years. Ironically, the cheapest one (an insert for an old zippo lighter that I had) has worked the best:
http://www.amazon.com/Vector-Thunderbird-Butane-Torch-Insert/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=pd_sim_236_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41GAkrwKV0L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR133%2C160_&amp;refRID=13M7JP5H64VSTW2J56ZK
It's easy to refill and very easy to adjust the flame height. I've only had it for 3 months, so I can't give a long term review on it, but I've liked it a lot so far.
I'm a bit late to this post, but I'll throw in my 2 cents anyways.
I've had a few of them and overall would recommend them. They're great for what you're trying to accomplish.
The first one I bought was the flint-and-wheel with soft flame model. That worked well but after a few months, I began to have real problems with the flame being unusable. My suspicion is that flint particles fouled up the nozzle. I'm sending that one in on warranty.
Then I bought the single torch model, as well as a Vertigo brand Z-Plus 2 Extreme. They both are good. The Thunderbird worked well and I never had problems with it. Ended up giving that one to a friend. I liked the Z-Plus a little bit better. It had two torches angled inward at each other, and it also had a transparent tank so you could easily see your fuel level. The Thunderbird fit better into my Zippo cases, but the Z-Plus was fine after I bent the piece of metal inside of the lid that catches the cam.
Thought I was set with that Z-Plus and I was for a while, but then I found out that there was a Thunderbird model that had both a single jet torch as well as a soft flame, and it was not flint-ignited. That is the one I've been EDC'ing ever since. It's fantastic and I couldn't recommend it more highly.
I got the thunderbird single flame:
Vector Thunderbird Butane Torch Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z8W714/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wpjaBbFZ48VEX
Sorry if the link doesn't work, I'm on mobile.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008Z8W714/ref=pd_aw_fbt_236_img_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=14R89EX4PA73T1ZH9AY7
is that a copy or a legit Kaffeologie?
They're using the same image but that doesn't mean anything these days!
https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Original-AeroPress-Built-Guaranteed/dp/B00A1GVVMY
Don't be like me with my first baby (2 weeks old when the following thing happened). She was snotty so I had been using the blue nose sucker of death to get the snot out (your baby will hate that OR you can use the new-fangled [Nosefrida] (http://smile.amazon.com/Nosefrida-Aspirator-filters-Additional-Filters/dp/B003807VGK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405224997&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=nose+frida) which is AWESOME). Anyway, I had my baby in the bassinet, along with the snot sucker and some tissue well beyond her reach. She was 2 weeks old, after all...how far could she get right? A package came to the door and I literally got up, went to the door, grabbed the package and came back (2 minutes tops). By the time I came back my baby was covered in tons of weird white vomit from....you guessed it! She had grabbed the wad of tissue and stuffed it in her mouth, causing her to vomit. I felt like the world's worst parent! So yeah, don't do that. ;)
Congrats on your first baby! :)
Item
Well that was easy. monkey
If possible, I would like a gift card, as I'm saving for a steam mop. If not, I would like this filter.
Thank you for the contest!
I often use a very fine grind with this filter and i have very little sludge. Way less sludge than my french press.
In australia I can't seem to find a cheap source for the filters, is there a good metal one on amazon or something?
Or should I just buy a load of paper ones
Is this any good? http://www.amazon.com/Filter-Original-AeroPress-Built-Guaranteed/dp/B00A1GVVMY/
Would like to emphasise that taste is top priority, so if paper is better, I can deal with buying a 350 pack every 6 months or so
Thanks :)
> The aeropress makes coffee that is smoother than a french press, but not as bold. I think this is due to the paper filter stripping out oils and coffee ground sediment that the french press leaves in. I like bolder coffee, so I use the french press more these days.
You might want to give a metal S Filter a shot, it allows oils through in the same way a french press does, although you're not going to get the fines at the bottom of the cup that you do a french press. I switch between AeroPress with paper filters, AeroPress with S Filter, and V60 pourover depending on my mood and how much time I have. Each has their pros and cons, but the S Filter can help deliver a bolder cup via the AeroPress.
On the topic of using them for beer, you don't really want to brew hot coffee and let it cool to add it to the beer. When hot brewed coffee cools, you lose volatile flavors and aromas and the character in the beer would end up lacking. You're much better off either brewing a cold brewed concentrate (which you could filter through an AeroPress if you want, although it could be a hassle) or dry beaning the beer.
Haha coffee is a complex thing, as you're finding out! Part of the fun though, IMO. Thousands of combinations and coffees to try, each different and unique, light roads, dark roasts, blends, etc!
IMO, the Porlex mini is a great grinder...for travel and hiking. You might not mind hand grinding the first week or so, but I've heard after that it can be kinda annoying. Plus there's something super satisfying about electric grinders to me haha.
For me, here in the US, the Porlex is showing at $54 on amazon. At that point, why not just put in the extra $76 to get the Encore which will last you 20-30+ years down the road?
Edit: and for filters, that's personal preference...if you are partial to French Press coffee, then you would like the metal filter more, which lets more oil through and those associated flavors. Paper filters filter out a lot of those oils, and give you a clearer, brighter cup. All personal preference really. I prefer the metal filter, though paper is still great too. Paper are a tiny bit easier, by just popping them in the trash vs having to wash a metal filter. Here is the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/Filter-AeroPress-Ultra-Stainless-Coffee/dp/B00A1GVVMY/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409687482&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aeropress+metal+filter
That was my second choice but I ended up going with this one.
Which metal filter do you use? I don’t get much in way of silt from my S filter, but standards of silt may vary :)
https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Original-AeroPress-Built-Guaranteed/dp/B00A1GVVMY
Got it, thanks
Analyzing farsightxr20
The coolest/most fun thing that I have ever done that took some convincing from my friends was cage diving with great white sharks in Cape Town, South Africa!
"time to end boredom"
And I really want this
I recommend this filter. It's a fine mesh, and doesn't let any powder through. The only maintenance is to declog it every month or two. I just keep a tupperware with a centimeter of undiluted household bleach in it, which I reuse. Set it in there for a few minutes, and it will eat right through all the tiny kratom leaf particles, then rinse it off well, and it's good as new.
The one downside is you can't push too hard, because it's a bit thicker than the paper filters, and more likely to let powder out the sides. But if you're having to push really hard, you either need to clean the filter, or use less powder.
I'd say so, it really depends on type of cup your looking for. The metal filter will allow more oils through and result in a more rich flavor. If you go the metal filter route I'd recommend the S filter which you can pick up here. Overall they both have their ups and downs, if you have the change to spare I'd say go for it and see which way you prefer.
Have an Aeropress? Do you like Clover brewed coffees? You might want to consider buying one of these. There are a few cheaper options available now, but I've had mine for a couple years now, so I know these are built well.
Product Image
I scoured the web high and low -- in search of your linked pic,
I looked around and soon I found
your item -- that was quick!
The above is this item's information as of 1-6-2017
Product Title: Shittens Disposable Mitten-shaped Moist Wipes, 20 Count
Rating: 4-5/5 stars
---------------------------------------------------
^Incorrect ^Image ^| ^Get ^A ^Bot
read the reviews & questions shit is gold.
Don't forget to pick up a pack of Shittens while you're there.
http://www.amazon.com/Shittens-Disposable-Mitten-shaped-Moist-Wipes/dp/B00F547P6S
TIL You can still order Shittens on Amazon.
Here is the desktop version of your link
The solution kills two birds with one stone. It humidifies and it contains an anti molding agent. The distilled water will just humidify. For a short term solution the water is fine. But always check your cigars for mold growth. Don't smoke mold.
The boveda packs will also help reduce your chances for mold and will be cheap at your local smoke shop or on amazon The boveda packs in the xikar travel humidor will last a very very long time.
For curing you have to watch it like a hawk. And even though they are about $20 a piece I cannot recommend enough, a hygrometer.
My husband does our cure but I've helped him do it so I'll tell you what he does. First we wet trim, removing the sun leaves and leaving the buds on the stems. Then we dry on a drying rack until they don't feel wet and flimsy anymore. They still feel moist but not all floppy. Then they go into jars. This is when we remove the buds from the stems. We don't leave giant buds in the jars. We cut the buds into manageable pieces. If you leave big buds you can get mold. We don't fill the jars any more full than 3/4. Then we close the jars, put a hygrometer in there and wait for the rH to come up.
This is where the opening and closing the jars part starts. Depending on what the rH comes up to we leave the jars open for a number of hours. If it comes up above 80 we remove the cannabis and let it sit out on a plate to dry some more. Leaving it out for about an hour or two then putting it back in the jar and getting it below 80 again. This can take a few tries. Eventually they get to stay in the jars and it's a game to open them and close them a million times until they sit at 62. To get there we'll check on them about 4 times throughout the day and then leave them closed overnights for about 8 hours. When they hit 62-65 we'll throw in boveda packs.
There's an excellent guide here: http://www.rollitup.org/t/if-your-about-to-cure-then-you-gotta-read-this.369616/
Here are the rH meters we use: http://www.amazon.com/Caliber-Digital-Hygromter-Western-Humidor/dp/B00JXOKQVW/ref=sr_1_3/182-0076901-6915671?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462892176&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hygrometer
and here are bovedas : http://www.amazon.com/Boveda-2-Way-Humidity-Control-Pack/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462892206&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=boveda+62
They can help with that too, but they can also be helpful when there is too much humidity since the packets are a 2 way humidity control.
I haven’t used them either, but they seem to get really great reviews from other growers as well!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_9NKqDbM8YDGAS
Also drop one of these in with it & your shit will stay fresh & continue to cure. Nake sure you use the 62% ones.
https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-62-Percent-2-Way-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=sr_1_6?crid=LN5FM4C5S0WH&keywords=boveda+62&qid=1568986664&s=gateway&sprefix=boveda+%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-6
What about Bovida in jars:
https://smile.amazon.com/Boveda-62-Percent-2-Way-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495796405&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=boveda&amp;th=1
Does anyone know if this is an ok method? How often should they be burped, and should it be a dry trim if using Bovida?
61% is fine, lots of people on here use the 62% humidity packs to cure including myself. I would look those up if you're interested in making it easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-62-Percent-2-Way-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=home-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1490171342&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=boveda%2Bmedium%2Bhumidipak%2B62&amp;th=1&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=4200a7-20&amp;linkId=b04d288afe006122b6e62ddc901be1f1
They do
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NKnazbRJQVBR4
I bought them on Amazon because of the shipping cost but you can get them on their official website.
I use the 62% and not the 58% because I can always dry my weed easily if I want - which isn't needed anyway because 62% is just right. The 8 gram pack is a good size, fits anything from 1/8th to an ounce so exactly my need.
Boveda 62 Humidity Packs
Hygrometers
The bud should pretty much break off the stem by hand before you jar. Throw in a boveda pack and a hygrometer and monitor them to make sure you're no higher than 62% humidity. No need to burp. Just make sure to keep an eye on the humidity. I lost 20g to bud rot while curing even though I had a boveda pack in the jar because my humidity was a little too high, and my bud was in too large of nug that it couldn't get any airflow. I also didn't have a hygrometer in that jar. You can take the meters out after the humidity stabilizes in the jar and be fine too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JV27MF4/?coliid=I2QCRL6O91UKL1&amp;colid=1M2PO9XUDGEQC&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Mason jar should be good, just try to keep the box out of direct sunlight. If you are really worried about mold, or if you buy in bulk and don't want it to dry out, maybe consider a humidifier pack thingy.
http://www.amazon.com/Boveda-2-Way-Humidity-Control-Pack/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=pd_sim_196_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41UBe2bi09L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=04EA2JMWATF210HH15SW
Amazon
is the best place to get Boveda packs. 10x 8g 62% RH for $12.00.
Or a Ball mason jar with one of these humidity control packets. You can get Ball brand mason jars at Target or Walmart.
http://www.amazon.com/Boveda-2-Way-Humidity-Control-Pack/dp/B00JV27MF4/ref=pd_sim_196_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41UBe2bi09L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=17Q39KC4V8HQ7Z1KRK89
Amazon is the best place I've found.
https://www.amazon.ca/Boveda-Humidipak-Medium-Humidity-Control/dp/B00JV27MF4
Use these. With plastic container or glass containers.
Yea these are the ones I use. Perfect for mason jars. The 4 gram ones are nice for the smaller jars so you don't have to crumple them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JV27MF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
If you want to not only keep your bud at the perfect consistency, but also mature it/increase it's flavour and potency, I suggest grabbing some of these for your stash jars; Boveda Packs 62%
Seriously, I've left bud for months in a jar with these, and when I opened it up it nearly blew my face off.
Get these (there's also 4 gram if you need smaller packets) and put one in your jar. Keeps it at 62%. When the packet gets stiff, replace it. If it's too dry, it adds moisture. If too moist, it removes it. cheap and easy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JV27MF4/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJVW0FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DuJkDb7G8EK8W
Just bought these and the click it's not too bad. Small enough to hide and easy to see how much fuel you have left.
https://www.amazon.com/Vertigo-Lotus-Cyclone-Lighter-Charcoal/dp/B00LJVW0FW
i ended up getting this 2pk for my new shadow M. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJVW0FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t869BbWGZR198
I don't know if this is the same thing, but this is what it is called in the US:
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=pd_ys_sabia_8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B000ARPH4C&amp;pd_rd_r=CW9AAWMC30ZWVK35FC7G&amp;pd_rd_w=nalg6&amp;pd_rd_wg=OIdH9&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CW9AAWMC30ZWVK35FC7G
Which part is floppy?
You can cover the floppy joints with layers of this stuff till it's no longer floppy.
Well, in that case, if you are going to do that, I don't recommend buying an airfix starter set (it's discussed below for completeness, but while the set of paint and cement is appealing, you'll end up throwing it all away later on aside from the paintbrush). The paints included in there almost certainly will not work well.
Go to a hobby store or something, buy a cheap airfix kit (I recommend either the Harrier FRS.1, Zero, Spitfire PR.XiX (all in 1/72), go to an art store to buy some Golden Talkon brushes (it's the name of the material; its' a super soft orangey bristle), and buy some paints (acrylic, plus a bottle of spray primer), while you're there.
See this old thread below of another beginner (though he was interested in sci fi), of tools you would need.
**That list is configured for the UK.
If you want to build plastic models, I recommend a recently issued spitfire model from Airfix, a few bottles of good, brushable paint (Model Master Acrylic is good, if you use a spray primer), and a few "golden talkon" synthetic brushes, plus tweezers and an exacto knife.
The basic starter sets you can buy are these:
Italeri: http://www.austinsmodels.co.uk/product.php/italeri_jas_39_gripen_172_scale_starter_kit/?k=:::6142968
Airfix: http://www.airfix.com/uk-en/shop/starter-sets-and-gift-sets/small-starter-sets.html.
These are gear towards children, and the quality of the paints are marginal at best. However, what it will do is give you an idea of the challenge ahead.
And some liquid cement.
As for why the long list below, there is an alternative:
Airfix, Revell Germany, Heller, and Italeri ALL make starter kits with paint and cement. However, the stuff in those are generally designed to appeal to children and would have to largely be replaced once you are "serious" about this.
The tools I recommended are more for if you're investing in the hobby for the long run with reusable, useful items you can continue to use for long periods of time.
However, if you are unsure, there's nothing wrong with one of those complete package kits. Warning though, Airfix's start kit paint is absolute garbage. but water soluble and easy to clean up. Strippable with alcohol, at least in the formulation I got a year ago.
And here's how I'd set it up:
OR: Airfix FRS 1 Harrier: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airfix-A04051-BAe-Harrier-FRS1-x/dp/B0021L9BU6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442370019&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=1%2F72+FRS.1
**you'll notice a theme developing. These are all mostly single color builds, minus some detail work.
Or, this: http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Langnickel-Taklon-Brush-Super/dp/B001ARHH7G (probably the better choice).
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Humbrol-150ml-Acrylic-Spray-Primer/dp/B004T8TD0C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442369901&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=humbrol+primer
or: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Color-Polyurethane-Primer/dp/B004BN5RYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1442369935&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=vallejo+primer
Other items:
**Future can be found in hardware and places like walmart in the US, there is no need to order it online except for convenience.
That same product has been renamed/rebranded several times over the years.
Good thing though, once you buy a bottle you won't need to buy another one for probably 20 years :)
And yes, Pledge Revive It floor gloss. I grabbed some at Walmart, but it's available all over.
https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C
SC Johnson Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish 27 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zNDgAbMQ8BW87
If it has become foggy from micro-cracking as larwk mentioned you may want to try Future floor finish. It is an acrylic coating that will fill scratches and cracks amazingly well and self-levels beautifully leaving a crystal-clear surface on plastic. It is a tried and tested procedure in the model-making world. Check out this page for a lot more info on its use. Obviously you'd want to try it out on a small area first, but even if it doesn't work for you it is easy to remove with a quick alcohol wipe. You'd also want to use nothing more than a mild detergent to clean it after it is applied and dried.
honestly I have found that brushing on future floor wax aka fledge multi surface works about 2-3x better than mr mark setter
amazon link http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?s=hpc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411885856&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=pledge+multi+surface+wax
I'd advise against plastic cement. This will degrade the plastic, as it welds two pieces of plastic together rather than merely adhering them. Instead, get some Future Floor Polish (an acrylic that is no longer called 'Future' but is always referred to as such) and brush it onto the piece you want to thicken:
https://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464798175&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=future+floor+polish
After painting, I recommend you spray a glosscoat, apply decals, and then spray a final glosscoat; imo I think Sinanjus look better with a glossy shiny finish, but that's just me.
If you have an airbrush or handbrushes, I recommend Future Floor (previously Pledge) as the first (before decals) and last layer of glosscoat.
If that's not your style, there's spray cans as well, such as Mr. Hobby Topcoat.
There's much more info in the sidebar, so if you really want to make it look good, refer to those links if you're on a computer. Really helpful stuff!
I use acrylic paints so I use my airbrush to seal it with Pledge Ultimate Floor care (Used to be called Pledge with Future and is much cheaper at Lowe's than Amazon) acrylic sealer. I then add my decals and weathering then spray the entire model with the varnish I will be using. Either glass, matte, or satin.
The major modeling paint companies all have good top coat and varnish options out. Also, check out some videos on YouTube. There are some great resources out there too.
Not sure why this hasn't been suggested yet, but Pledge Future floor polish works as an amazing gloss top coat. It's cheap and comes in large quantities. For about $5, you will have all you need for year.
Here's a link to what I bought, and here's a link on how you should use it!
Future is used rather often as a clear coat. A bottle of the stuff will effectively last a lifetime.
Concerning decal solutions, either one should be fine. I've used both microsol/set or Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, depending on how cooperative the decals are.
NO!! it is laquer based and may cause the acrylic paint to run. A lot of people use this Future floor care its cheap and lasts for ever and will not damage acrylics.
I have one dwarf whose like that. If you want to try to fix it, put a drop of super glue or plege floor finish on his hips and work the joints for a few minutes to get it inside and it'll dry while your still moving the legs and that should help tighten them up.
It's called Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish in the US, and goes by various names around the world. Walmart carries it, costs around $6 for a bottle that could clear coat hundreds of models.
It also works pretty well on floors :)
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493385925&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=pledge+floor+care
That's not the same as I use, from the looks of the back it's not an acrylic like the "Floor Finish". You might want to look for this bottle. Or just order it online.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C
I also remember it being called klear in the uk but I'm not 100%
I've heard that Pledge is a good gloss coat but I'm not sure what I should be buying in the uk.
Is this the right stuff https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Klear-Multi-Surface-Wax/dp/B008HFVO32/
Or should I get this which costs quite a bit more https://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C/
the absolute cheapest route, and safest for paint compatability, is Pledge (aka Future Floor Polish). https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504883161&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=future+floor+polish
It is super tough, doesn't yellow, and will not react poorly with any type of paint. Oh, and you can brush or spray it on.
Will this work? I also have some loose joints to fix
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/
Thanks!
I was thinking of putting some airbrush advice on here, but I figured that most newbies are a long way off from getting an airbrush.
Regarding thinning for airbrushing: I use future floor polish. It's a really thin, clear acrylic that I learned about during the hours of research I did before buying an airbrush. I think it's an old scale modeler's trick.
Here's a link to the product on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509879400&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=pledge+floor&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=415e8X8G5yL&amp;ref=plSrch
This right here is what I'm using. It doesn't say future on the bottle but it's the exact same formula, just reskinned. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I can't find any information on this pledge on the swammymodels future guide. Is this the same as the 2015 formula of the multi surface finish? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1AKT0EVAUPPAX&amp;psc=1
I ordered this a couple days ago https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1. According to one of the answered questions, this is the same product, just renamed yet again.
Future floor finish.
If it works on figures, it probably works on gunpla.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1AKT0EVAUPPAX
Oh man, that sounds awesome! Is it this?
http://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-SW-250i-FR-Everholder-FURemover-Broom/dp/B000EFDOOA/
I got this as a psuedo-joke, but little did I know that it would be AMAZING for cleaning up the carpet of my love's hair before vacuuming. The rake just takes hair, sticks it to the rubber spikes, and catches every clump you would miss with your eyes. It really is awesome, haha.
So I guess I post my answers here.
4. A book! And well, it is a book about a non-descript wizard. I could learn some very valuable lessons from it.
This is the one I have:
Hair rake and squeege
i would probably go home with a sebo K3 if i were in your shoes (or can go big with a D4). Sebo's quick fieldstrip head will come in handy in removing the medium/long hair, washing/disinfecting, and i dont think there's anything else like it in that regard. a new roll costs like $25 if you happen to kill it. Not sure if it comes with parquet or kombi head also but they work good with front brush removed. Sebo bags are cheaper than miele i think, but 2/3 the size unless you shell out the $$$ for a D4 which is more comparable to a miele C3. Smaller bag capacity could be a good thing. How long do you really want crap to ferment in the vacuum anyway?
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The Miele C3 costs more but has bigger bag comparable to sebo D4. the SEB236/228 powerheads basically dont fieldstrip at all, but it has a slot in the brushroll for scissors. I would probably pick a C2 or C3 for a house with no pets.
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Both choice are totl for filtration. Spend the savings on bags. Change often if it smells. Buy bag tablets.
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On second thought, maybe a vacuum cleaner is the wrong tool for massive amounts of fur. You wouldn't use pliars to remove a lug nut.. but you could. Long hair and spinning brushes don't seem like they should go together. Maybe the suction can be used in conjunction with a specialized tool?
Evriholder FURemover Broom with Squeegee made from Natural Rubber, Multi-Surface and Pet Hair Removal, Telescoping Handle that Extends from 3 ft to 6 ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WWq1BbTE1WZQV
Grandi Groom AB24 Carpet Rake, 18-Inch Head, 54-Inch Handle, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009A35AUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DVq1BbFTRWMXM
Surprisingly a rubber squeegee works really well for pet hair removal out of carpeting. Kinda like this
https://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-FURemover-Squeegee-Multi-Surface-Telescoping/dp/B000EFDOOA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Rubber+broom&amp;qid=1559180842&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
I use one of these on the hardwoods for dog hair. I also use it on the rugs before I vacuum. Works for me.
Bar keepers friend is what i use to remove surface rust on old wheels and components. it'll do wonders and is pretty cheap.
If the vinegar does not work for you, use a product with oxalic acid.
I use https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992?ie=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0
It's Barkeeper's Friend, and don't you forget it. :P
This guy?. How do you use it as a powder? I'm assuming just mix it with water to make a paste?
Unless that's anodized aluminum, you can clean it up to look nearly brand-new with some barkeeper's friend. Don't get it from Amazon, though. You can get it cheap from your local supermarket, in the cleaning products aisle. This stuff is pretty much mandatory in restaurant kitchens. It's surprising how many people don't know about it for home use, so their pots and pans get pretty tarnished over the years, especially stainless steel and copper.
I say "nearly" brand-new because there's naturally going to be some scratches and dings. But that's what gives these things character :)
Second this
I soak my parts in this stuff and scrub after a few hours.
http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend®-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
For clean up, Try using bar keeper.
Are you adding the protein when the pan is too cold?
Another option is to deglaze the pan with wine or chicken broth and make a pan sauce.
I only use my all clad when I intend to make pan sauce. Otherwise, I use a non stick pan.
A little elbow grease and Bar's Keeper can clean anything.
http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411255518&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=bars+keep
Darn. It sounded cool. I'm not sure what area you're in, but I use Bar Keepers Friend on just about everything I can, and it works great. I don't have any cool copper stuff I can test it on, but it might be worth a shot.
Try this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992/
RUST!?
Do you have a water softener? That may help alleviate the problem.
To clean the porcelain bowl, try Bar keepers friend... this stuff is friggen magic (works wonders on stainless steel too). https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
IMO for cleaning copper I would use Bar Keepers Friend You can get it locally at walmart or your local grocery store usually. Don't have to let anything soak or screw with ammonia which fucking reeks. Put on some rubber gloves (or use a plastic bowl) and pour some powder in there. Pour some water in there to get yourself a nice paste/liquid mixture and then just cover the copper with it. I do this in my hand because its much easier to work over the mod (heh) with. It cleans almost instantly. Threads may need to be cleaned with a toothbrush. Otherwise rinse it off with water and let it dry and you're ready to roll.
Please excuse the Sayid nails
Before and After
There is a product called Barkeeper's Friend. It's very cheap and it is a miracle worker for stainless. Will make it shine like brand new with very minimal effort. This is what you are looking for, but honestly you can get it at most grocery stores or even Home Improvement stores for about $1-2.
As far as cooking with it, just make sure you have enough fat/oil/butter/etc. to keep things from sticking. I like using avocado oil because it has a really high smoke point and a very mild flavor. I can get it pretty hot without smoking and doesn't alter the flavor of whatever I'm cooking. But the great thing about stainless is that no matter how bad you burn things or screw them up, barkeeper's friend will make that sucker shine like new pretty easily.
We had it tested but I cant remember off the top of my head what was in it. Yes the hot water smelled like sulphur and it would leave rust colored streaks where it was left to dry. I ended up having to buy this in order to clean it.
Bar Keepers Friend
Use this Bar Keepers Friend® Cleanser & Polish: 12 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V72992/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_95A9wbH8GGD0X
To polish
Bar Keepers Friend
Works so good.
Nothing cleans stainless steel like a scrub pad and some Bar Keepers Friend
Couple this with boiling and scraping method (to take off the big chunks) and your stainless steel will have a mirror coat finish. Even takes of decade old burn marks without any furious scrubbing.
Useful add-on item from my wishlist might even be useful for you.
Looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend®-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=hpc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520100723&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=BAr+keepers+friend
Add just a little bit of water to make a paste. Works for a bunch of different things- also awesome on stainless steel cookware too if you get food stuck or burnt on.
I use these for quick wipes: https://www.amazon.com/Weiman-Stainless-Steel-Wipes-Count/dp/B00Q8VI480/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520100859&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=stainless+steel+wipes&amp;psc=1
Maybe there's a similar brand in the U.K.?
I would think barkeepers friend and a sponge would work very well
https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
You can get it at Target or on Amazon or I bet you could find it at Wal Mart. It works incredibly well on copper pans.
Usually I just clean it normally with a sponge like any other dish. If something gets burned on I'll soak it or boil some water in it. Maybe once every year or so I soak it in Barkeepers Friend paste(http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend%C2%AE-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992) and then scrub with a sponge and it gets any stuff that was burned on the bottom or tough stains off. That brings the shine back and makes it look brand new. All in all very easy to keep clean. No seasoning to fuss with or teflon coatings to be careful with.
This stuff is cheap, and removes rust very well, without leaving scratches:
http://www.amazon.com/Bar-Keepers-Friend®-Cleanser-Polish/dp/B000V72992
Don't buy it online, though - it's like $2 in the grocery store!
you can try this also:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V72992
"Get a container such as a cup. Put some BFK and mix it with warm/hot water until it gets pasty, then brush it on to the mesh and lightly scrub. Dont let it sit too long. Finally wash it off.
From what Ive noticed in pictures, BFK seems to dull the shininess of the nylon mesh in XIs.
Also, there has been cases where black/blue spots appearing on the mesh. Im not quite sure what causes it, but it might be from the black liner from inside the shoe bleeding through the mesh. Thats the main reason why I havent personally tried it. "
http://niketalk.com/t/14110/the-official-cure-for-yellowing
keeping your shiny bits shiny has 0 to do with taking care of the car. You can have the shiniest car ever, but if your oil is low or hasn't been changed in 15k miles... congrats?
But. Post a pic. What you consider unusually dirty isn't what i consider unusually dirty, how many miles etc.
VW GTI people love barkeepers friend(amazon.com). I've also heard really good things about some elbow grease and a houshold cleaner like comet or simple green.
/r/AutoDetailing is where you're going to get the best answers to something like this.
As far as it being a sign of a failing hpfp, idk. I'm not sure how they fail, only that they do. I'd imagine if it was failing it would provide less fuel, not more therefore causing lean conditions vs overly rich. And the cars o2 sensors would measure this fuel ratio and adjust to keep everything in the set parameters.
Mine were chrome, and still are. I also had my hpfp replaced, but never noticed it on my exhaust tips. cause ya know, they're amazingly filthy.
but keep the chrome. blacked out is boring, and exhaust tips should be chrome not black regardless.
You could try Bar Keepers Friend. I've used it on my SS before and it works.
I purchased this Cooks Standard set 4 years ago for $225 and I've been loving it. No need to worry about using metal or scrubbing hard. I do occasionally use Bar Keepers Friend to polish up the pans for a brand-new look.
If you don't want this brand/set specifically, for sure get at least tri-ply like already mentioned. I think metal pans (vs non-stick coating) are better for all around cooking. Sure, you need to use more oil/butter in your cooking, but moderate amounts of fat are important in a diet. Its highly processed, added sugars, and excess salt you need to worry about.
For when I needed a non-stick, like for eggs, I picked up this T-fal and the non-stick is fantastic, even after a few years of careful use.
I also have a Lodge cast iron dutch oven set which is great for when I use it, but I find it difficult to use effectively. Perhaps I'm just not using the proper techniques, so I don't get much use of it... but I do love to use it when I get around to it. Learning proper care for cast iron is essential - read up before you use (and possibly ruin!)
I use Zep Heavy Duty Oven and Grill Cleaner from HD or Amazon, works quite well. Bar Keepers Friend also works fine. Preheated cookware cleans up even faster.
Being that the paint is dry, something abrasive is probably your best bet, vs. a solvent. I always use Bar Keepers Friend on my white ceramic sink to make it absolutely shine. It will likely remove your paint. It can be had at most grocery or general stores. http://amzn.com/B000V72992
http://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B001GPJY64
I rolled by hand for years... until this bad boy.
This is just a little cheaper and takes about 2 seconds to figure out. I use one of these every day to roll my daily joint toke. I put however much I want in it, close it up to make the core. and pop in a paper. The 1.25 papers are the perfect length. My pot can go from bud to joint in 2 minutes.
Get a cigarette roller. They're something around 2-3 dollars at any smoke shop.
Be sure to get one that's made of vinyl, slick plastic sucks and is harder to use (so I've found).
I always use these crappy rollers, and buy new ones when I need them.
Could always get one of those zig zag rollers.
Although I would recoment a 110mm, this is a good one.
Here's the roller on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Roller-Perfect-Cigarettes/dp/B001GPJY64
Or just get one of these at a store, its probably the best $5 smoking investment I've made.
http://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Roller-Perfect-Cigarettes/dp/B001GPJY64
I suggest using a ZigZag roller. You end up with an evenly packed mj cig every time. Slow, even burn with very little hassle.
My secret santa got me one, this year and I love it.
http://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Roller-Perfect-Cigarettes/dp/B001GPJY64
I love to roll them! I got an MFLB so I don't smoke much anymore. It feels like I'm wasting it if I smoke it alone. It's so fun to roll them. I'm not very good but when it comes out nice, I'm content. There's also those rollers that help you out and cheap too. I've never used it but like I said, rolling is fun.
Here's a link to the "rolling machine"
http://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B001GPJY64/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1289816942&amp;sr=8-8
Good luck, be safe, stay smart, and don't drive while blazed. :) toke on
Rolling machines are pretty cheap. I have one similar to this: $6 with shipping http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GPJY64?cache=5682fee4cecf7ce364a21c5ac88e3eb6&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;qid=1406224950&amp;sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4
Go for rolling papers and $5 roller wheel like this one.
It's a far better value than buying an injector and tubes.
I speak from experience.
The only benefit those tubes have, is you won't burn your fingers nearly as much as rolling your own with Element Rice Papers or paper rolling papers.
Taste is much better on unfiltered, but if you are a newer smoker, start with a mild/gold tobacco or Turkish, as unfiltered is stronger than filtered.
You can buy filters for rolling papers btw, a bag of 200 is usually $3-$5 at amazon.
This is the roller I use.
I bought one of those injectors, the Powermatic Mini, but seriously it sucks. It spits out tobacco on sides all the time, other times it's really noisy, it stinks like a tire (didn't bother me but did bother others).
Biggest flaw of the PM, is definitely when it doesn't fill the center/tip as thickly as the rest of the cig. Then when you go to tap your cig on an ashtray, it will bend the tube.
Really unpleasant experience. Don't even get me started on how much of a joke the PM is at filling 100mm tubes. It basically fails.
If your going the tube and injector route, just get an electric tube injector, as then it won't suck.
I honestly wish I could return my white Powermatic Mini, but I can't because Amazon won't let me.
Learn from my mistakes:
PS: I wish this could be put in the damn wiki!
$2.14 + $1.99 shipping: Zig Zag 1.25 78mm Cigarette Rolling Machine
$3.29 + $2.49 shipping: Zig Zag Orange Rolling Papers 1 1/4 - 3 Pack
That's a lot of papers + a rolling machine for less than $10 shipped.
And you really believe that, that is what will happen? You actually believe that there is a big conspiracy in /r/politics against Ron Paul? Perhaps you haven't seen the other 14 posts (I counted) in the top 50 about Ron Paul, or the one with 966 upvotes that was near the top earlier? Maybe this is more relevant.
No time to waste : https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-500/dp/B001R2NM5U
Move along citizen.
It's on sale too.
Make sure you order some of [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001R2NM5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_1HIOAbD167G4E) while you're at it so you have appropriate headgear.
Since you have no desire to see the point I'm making...
Lots of people video tapped it and posted it online. Its real. Also I have something you might enjoy. Your welcome!
If you choose the wrong wifi choice, bad things will happen so you're right to be concerned. In this case you want to go with one big wifi point and then you want to remove the antennas and manually lower the transmit power in the firmware.
Beyond that, my suggestion is to buy RF blocking/reflecting materials. Use these materials to construct a hat to block the government death rays/radiation. make sure you do a good job and don't miss any areas you don't want the death rays going underneath and affecting your brain.
This is what I would start with - https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-500/dp/B001R2NM5U
Use the entire wrap. Make sure your eyes, mouth, ears, etc. aren't exposed or else.
It's easy enough already James T. Porter. Did you know you can get a subscription to tinfoil?
This is the one I got and here is a larger one.
http://www.amazon.com/79mm-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464044235&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=joint+roller
Here's a RAW joint roller:
https://www.amazon.com/79mm-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467441570&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=raw+roller
They also have one that's 110mm
This probably wouldn’t work for dry papers but they do make really cheap machines just for that. They come in many different sizes for typically under $10. It’s the only way I can roll lol
RAW 79 mm 1 1/4 Hemp Plastic Cigarette Rolling Machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Vf0nDbMJ06HET
Just get a cigarette roller. They are cheap, easy to use, and roll a perfect joint every time.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_whtmDbKRM9TMZ
Trade-Ctore RAW 79 mm 1 1/4 Hemp Plastic Cigarette Rolling Machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vMdEzbS3HPJF6
Just get a roller.
Bought mine for like 5 bucks from a corner store.
I would advise you to pick up a Raw rolling machine and your own bud. Pre rolls can be made with shitty floor weed much like fake cigars are.
Not saying they all are, but some definitely are made with crap quality and its much easier to make pinners with that machine.
If you smoke regularly then I recommend you get this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sqlqzb3NDCH8J. Buy some Elements King size Papers and a pack of tips. You'll save a lot of money!
I use a grinder. The buds don't break up enough for me when I do it by hand. Use a RAW rolling machine to roll joints. They burn a lot better that way because I can't roll a joint on my own to save my life. Lol
Maybe try one of these little rollers if you want to start rolling your own. Takes about a minute to make a perfect rollie without a fuss... I like to pack mine extra tight so they go out if I don't keep puffin.
you can also just get filters and papers, and use a rolling machine: https://www.amazon.com/RAW-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rolling+machine&qid=1558931853&s=gateway&sr=8-3 put the filter in at one end and put the flower in the rest...
Amazon has them for less than $5, and my local tobacco shop has them for less than $3. Amazon Raw Rolling Machine
You should get a joint/cigarette roller like this one . It’s great for shaky hands because it does all the work for you. They are also cheap. One of these would help you so much!
Idk about blunts, but I do know joints.
For joints, the #1 mistake that I've learned not to make is to roll it/pack it too tightly. If you roll it or pack it too tightly, that joint will be running like a mf. It took some time for me to feel what is an overly packed joint.
Basically, if you squeeze it and it doesn't budge nearly at all from how tight it is, it will start running.
To avoid this problem, I do this: After I roll the joint, I twist 1 end. If I feel that it is too tight, I start rolling the joint in my fingers to loosen it, it's okay if a little weed falls out. It is kind of difficult for me to describe when a joint is not overly packed/too tightly rolled but also not "loose" either.
Again, basically if your joint is so tight that it feels like a candle stick and will not "give" when you squeeze it, you need to do the loosening technique. An under-packed joint should be obvious as weed will be able to slide up and down the joint.
Here is the joint roller that I use. It took some practice to learn how to roll good joints that weren't too tight or too skinny, but once I learned how to roll joints well with this, I never rolled by hand again.
That's cool, no judgement. But a rolling machine like this one. https://www.amazon.com/RAW-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rolling+machine&amp;qid=1572918887&amp;sr=8-1
A pack of papers and a Glass crutch are minimal effort for a much more powerful and cheaper experience. https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Rolling-Genuine-Cigarette-Straight/dp/B07BMXR6GC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Glass+Cigarette+Rolling+Filter+Tips&amp;qid=1572918993&amp;sr=8-3
The smallest amount of effort will afford you a better experience, that's all I wish to point out.
I can't stress how awesome the automatic cigarette rollers are. They are 5 bucks, and worth their weight in gold.
it takes about 2 minutes to learn how to use it.
every joint you roll is perfect, cylindrical, tight, same diameter of a cigarette. and because they are so perfect, they look a lot more like a cigarette.
edit: here is the one i have
http://www.amazon.com/79mm-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
I cheat and use a cigarette rolling machine, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/79mm-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
Plus the tips they have in the "frequently bought together". Perfect cylinders every time, no burnt fingers or lips.
Maybe buy a grinder and a vape. Or even cheaper, a grinder and a rolling machine like this
Those cheap little rolling machines really work.
Example ----> www.amazon.com/79mm-Plastic-Cigarette-Rolling-Machine/dp/B002CNE9H8
Try a rolling machine (Amazon). I've given up on hand rolling. Honestly even the rolling machine was a pain in the ass for me to get right (took me like 20 attempts after watching a REALLY simple youtube video) but eventually I got it right.
The thing I figured out was that the herb needs to be somewhat dense for it to roll right. I only like to smoke a little at a time so I didn't want to fill the entire joint.
I fixed that by cutting a piece of a plastic drinking straw and stuffing it with rolled up filters. I put the straw at one end of the roller, and the (actual) filter at the other, that way I can pack herb into the open area tightly without using too much.
Now that the herb is packed in nice and tight, I roll it up, seal it, and kind of pinch the straw out of the joint and twist it up. They come out a little pathetic looking but who gives a shit? They smoke really nice and it's the perfect amount.
If you're interested I can take a few pictures to illustrate what I mean about the straw.
It always takes awhile for me, never could roll a decent one quick.. I picked this up a few years ago. Perfect every time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CNE9H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OAXPwbAFVSDAH
I've never used them. If you're not familiar with hand rolling I recommend this like thing.
Don't try to overstuff it and you'll make perfect little cigarettes. Use 1.25 papers.
if you're gonna get one i recommend getting tips. helps keep the grass in and lets you burn all the tree without leaving a roach. you can get bigger ones too and package deals with all of it. also remember to roll towards you and not away.
Not really. The stuff you're thinking of putting in it is typically more moist and doesnt pack as well in a machine of this caliber. Save the $70 bucks and maybe go with something like this instead.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CNE9H8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1449539448&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=cigarette+roller&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41m6FQ7ldPL&amp;ref=plSrch
Although hand rollies still work better i think.
Try this shit—no joke: https://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY
I swear by Grunge Off. It eat res. It don't give a fuck.
This is 18$. Look at how high the reviews are.
http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY/
No seriously, read how high the reviews are.
Try giving it a soak in Grunge Off! It'll make it look shiny and new, and the cleaner is reusable!
2)Isopropyl alcohol evaporates pretty quickly.
I'm not sure about you guys, but I use [Grunge off] (http://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371789965&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=grunge+off). This stuff kicks ass. It has teh viscosity of glycerin and you pour it in. Let it sit for 15-20m (I just empty the bong before I sleep and pour the stuff in) No shaking or anything necessary. Anything in contact with the solution is clean as the day you bought it. And the best part is, it's reuseable. I've used mine at least once a week for the last 5 months and have yet to notice any degradation in potency.
I've used alcohol and salt before, and I find this method much easier and safer. Rock salt can get stuck to certain kinds of percs, and vigorously shaking my bong trying to agitate salt, while probably at a [8] can be a recipe for disaster.The only slight inconvenience is while cleaning it out, the solution may develop bubbles. Now its not gonna be like soap, but there will be a bit. And trying to rid your bong of bubbles is a bitch. Luckily my bong is small enough to fit under the sink tap, and I can just force all the water out the top thru the downstem. If you have a taller one it may take several rinses to remove the trapped bubbles.
Grunge Off
Grunge Off is the best cleaner, plus its super cheap because its reusable. The bottles I have i've been using for 4 months are pitch black and still clean my pieces like new.
clean your piece!! May i recommend Grunge off
Grunge off
get yourself some grunge off let it soak overnight. stuff is amazing and reusable.
I've had really good luck with Grunge Off. It's a cleaner made with citrus oil and unlike the iso method or Orange Chronic, this is meant to soak your pieces in. If you take the bowl and soak overnight it should clean a lot of the build up away. Rinse with hot water. You may have to rinse it out and soak again the following night but it will eventually break down any build up you have on there. It smells great to! Amazon link below so you can see what it looks like but don't buy from there because that price is stupid! I think i pay $18 a bottle. It's reusable many, many times.
https://www.amazon.ca/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_121_tr_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZM0MZ1HD5MKQ514V37SH
&#x200B;
And once you get it clean use a few drops of Rez Block in the water to prevent it from getting dirty again. This stuff works wonders!!!
https://www.amazon.ca/RezBlock-Concentrate-420-Science-Cleaner/dp/B00C6L66CC
&#x200B;
Good luck!
It may not clean it super well, but I usually use this to clean. I'm sure it's not the safest cleaner, but you can reuse it over and over and over. Once the liquid gets black, all I do is pour it through a filter and it's good again.
Since it leaves a little bit of a pungent smell, I run vinegar through after and then a little water. It seriously cleans it Brand Spankin' New.
However, coarse salt and alcohol/vinegar is always a solution too.
Grunge Off
I never actually cleaned mine in the dishwasher. I’d use Grunge Off because it’s nice smelling and you can reuse it after cleaning!! I think every stoner should use it, it’ll take stripes off a zebra!! https://www.amazon.com/Grunge-Off-Super-Soaker-Cleaner/dp/B002LURISY
Or maybe I should say it’ll strip resin as aggressively as I’d strip you. 😉😋
Joint rolling machine
http://www.amazon.com/Zig-Zag-Roller-Perfect-Cigarettes/dp/B001GPJY64
I think I found your amazon purchase history.
Problem solved
Grunge Off Super Soaker Glass Pipe Cleaner, 16 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LURISY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2s1hDb08W048Q
Mr. Clean magic eraser. AKA melamine foam.
I use this little cheap Remington one.. works great
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034BV6KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VLPMDb39CF630
This stuff looks like it will do the trick. I haven't used it, but it's worth a shot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00375JBL4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527548557&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=electronics+cleaning+putty&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41ihUlKj7hL&amp;ref=plSrch
Cool beans! Thanks for the info.
Would this work for conditioner? Or is there another product that would be more bang for buck?
In regards to polishing the shoe, would regular kiwi brown shoe polish work?
there are many leather treatment products, find one that fits your needs and try not to slide around the leather at that spot. The left thigh support on the drivers seat is commonly worn out from getting in and out of the car.
ArmorAll
Amazon Leather Honey
Clean them with some saddle soap. Use good brushes. Then apply some leather honey on the brown parts. It'll help bring back some of the original color quality, but boots that old, and that worn, are going to be hard to get back to the original finish.
On the plus side, boots that old and that worn are supposed to look like that. Clean them up a bit and take care of the soles and you should have no problem getting another 15 years out of them.
I'm not sure what point you are trying to make here. In the report you linked the FBI thanked the Secret Service for their help in apprehending the shooter. I didn't see anything in that report that indicated the FBI thought the Secret Service was conspiring to protect this First Family any less than other First Families.
Do you have an inkling of how moronic that assertion actually is?
Apparently not. Here you go:
http://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-Pack/dp/B001R2NM5U
Do some shopping.
TL;DR
Years of the drone wars killed a lot of people who deserved it and the alternative is a lot worse. Perhaps you should be hating on the very evil religion that permeates those places.
Otherwise, Amazon Pantry is great for stuff like this. https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-500/dp/B001R2NM5U
On second thought, you'd have to give the man your address so I'm guessing that's out.
https://www.amazon.com/Reynolds-Wrap-Aluminum-Foil-500/dp/B001R2NM5U
Nope
Scrub with bar keeper’s friend, mild dish soap, and a toothbrush.
Here you go.