We're here for you.

And here's a lint roller for you: https://www.amazon.com/3M-836R-OS-Lint-Roller/dp/B00006IA8Q

What a nice looking cat, congratulations!

I'm just going to leave this here

These are real. And you can recharge them by USB

> Rather than using the spark/fuel method that most lighters employ, the Tesla lighter uses electromagnetic induction to power its electric arc. That means when you shake the lighter, the agitation of an internal magnet produces an electromotive force. That force is carried across a conductor, and in this case, is what powers the electric arc. 

These are commonly called arc lighters or Tesla lighters. And you can get them here

I've thought about adding Dude Wipes into my rotation, or something similar, but I typically only poop at work or home.

These are more common in the US, they will not break since they just a solid piece of plastic. We can get the smaller ones you have but they are less common and usually marked as a travel lint roller. I like your solution to the problem though and wish the lint rollers I buy were that cheap!

My wife got some sunscreen on her interior (SR+). We use this to clean the inside of our cars:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_PWCnDbQ8CGK4K

I haven’t noticed it since.

I've seen this recommended on the Tesla Facebook discussion. It depends a bit on whether the color is removed or the material is actually scratched - and I can't tell from the photos.

https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Finish-Black-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B006NZRAFE/

If the material underneath is actually scratched away you might need some sort plastic/vinyl repair.

If this is sort of scratch mark made by the material being left behind - like chalk or something leaving a mark behind - then I'd clean it with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF

So I took the recipe a mixture from here (for core recipe) and here (for some advice on technique).

The recipe I used was this:

• 3 cups of bread flour
  
• 1 cup of tap water
  
• 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter (slightly melted)
  
• 1/2 tablespoon of dark brown sugar
  
• 1.75 tablespoons of kosher salt
  
• 1/2 tablespoon of instant active yeast
  
• 1/8 cup of food grade lye (I used this) + 2 cups of water
  
  
  Some thoughts about the process:
  
  
• I don't have a food processor/mixer, so I had to knead the dough by hand. As a result, the dough was not very stretchy, which made it pretty hard to achieve ideal Philly soft pretzel shape.
  
• With regards to the shape, I really need to work on my technique. I feel like defaulting to normal pretzel shape comes more naturally. Any tips here?
  
• Very happy with how the taste turned out. The dough was really good, and the lye provided the perfect golden brownness.
  
• Handling lye sounds scary but it's really not that bad. I used a plastic bowl in an empty sink. And I made sure to carefully use gloves the entire time. Still, if you decide to use lye, proceed with caution. I don't really plan to use baking soda, since no legit bakery I know uses this method.
  
• I accidentally forgot to set a timer when I put the pretzels in the oven, so half of them came out a little dark. Actually kind of glad this happened, because they didn't burn but achieved more of a dark pretzel-type flavor.

I try not to hug/hold/pet my cat when I'm about to go somewhere, but getting cat hair on clothing seems to be an inevitable side-effect to owning a cat. I've always had pretty good success with [3M's lint rollers] (http://www.amazon.com/3M-836R-OS-Lint-Roller/dp/B00006IA8Q). I keep one of the [Mini 3M lint rollers] (http://www.amazon.com/3M-Mini-Lint-Rollers-Pack/dp/B0000AQNOG/ref=pd_sim_121_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51zEp0xDVJL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0XX22FQ35XCHYWGDZFZY) in my desk at work for emergencies.

ETA - Just came across these "peel and pat" lint removing sheets -- [LintUps] (http://www.minimus.biz/LintUps-Sheets-J01-0459001-8000.aspx). You have to buy a whole case of them on Amazon, but minimus.biz sells them individually.

Lets start before Cubans, and I'll assume you know nothing about cigars and just start from the beginning.

Okay, as far as humidors go, there are a bunch of options. The quickest and easiest way is to buy a tupperware container that seals well and a few boveda packets (you can get either on amazon). I'd recommend 65% if you're using a "tupperdor" (69% for a wooden humidor...of course depending on the climate where you live etc...). Rough rule of thumb is to use one 60 gram packets for every 25 cigars the container can fit. We'll get more into wood humidors later.

The next thing you'll want to have is a digital hygrometer. You can snag one for 15-20 bucks on amazon. If you're using multiple tupperdors, I wouldn't worry about having one in each, just switch the meter to a different container every week or so to make sure they're staying good. With boveda packets, you shouldn't have a problem. Anyway, when you get your hygrometer, you want to calibrate it. The packaging or instructions may say that it is calibrated at the factory and does not need to be tested. Ignore that. Get a bottle cap, fill it about 2/3 up with table salt, and a few drops of water. Put the cap in an airtight container (a zip lock bag will do) with the hygrometer. Wait a day, and see what the hygrometer says. If it says 75%, you're good. If it doesn't, adjust it until it does, and then leave it in the bag a few more hours to make sure it stays there. You will find that you may develop your own preference for the Relative Humidity (RH) of your cigars, but it your container is reading in the mid sixties to the low seventies, you're around where you want to be. Keep an eye on the temperature, too. I like to keep mine below 70 degrees F. If they get into the high seventies, your cigars may literally begin hatching beetles.

Now onto wooden humidors: these are much more of a pain in the ass than tupperdors, in terms of setting it up. As far as a specific model, there are a ton and it depends on too many things to specify from the information you gave. Personally, I'd recommend a humidor that can hold more cigars than you plan on needing. My first humidor holds fifty cigars. I now have another 25 count (although, that was free and I didn't need it until I figured "fuck it, might as well fill it"), a 100 count, and two tupperdors. So as far as picking one out, I'd recommend again going bigger than you think you need, make sure it is at least lined with spanish cedar, and just check reviews to see how it seals. Every humidor will have bad reviews because a lot of people don't know how to season them, so look for reviews from people who seem to know what they're doing. And I'd personally stay away from anything with a glass top, it's just another place it can lose a seal.

Speaking of seasoning, you have to season a wooden humidor, which means to sort of saturate the wood to the correct humidity level. If you don't, the wood will eat up the humidity being released by your humidifying thingamajig instead of it being all for your sticks. There's a couple ways to do this: you can get distilled water (or a premade solution of distilled water and propylene glycol, it really doesn't matter) and wipe the wood down with it, with a barely damp cloth or sponge. If you get the wood too wet, it will warp and the humidor won't seal. Then leave a bowl or shot glass filled with the distilled water in the humidor and let it sit a few days. Note that the water being distilled is not optional, do not use any other water, no tap, no spring water. Only distilled water. You want nothing in the humidor except spanish cedar, cigars, and moisture.

The easier way to season a humidor is to buy boveda seasoning packets. They regulate the environment in the humidor to 84%. Buy the same amount you'd need if they were regular bovedas, one per 25 cigar capacity. Put them in the humidor, close the humidor, come back 14 days later and take the packets out. Replace them with (I'd recommend) 69% packets. Put cigars in over the course of a few days (you don't want to add them all at once, it will swing RH levels).

I'd recommend this for a tupperdor, in the largest size:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00284AG5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this humidor, I like it:
http://www.cheaphumidors.com/the-othello-checkerboard-pattern-cigar-humidor.html

I also have this smaller humidor which I'm still seasoning, but it seems to seal well enough:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072NZK9K4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seasoning packets:
https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-Humidity-Seasoning-Humidifier-Dehumidifier/dp/B004NXXBLA/ref=sr_1_10?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502648759&sr=1-10-spons&keywords=boveda+seasoning&psc=1

Packets to regulate RH (pick whatever RH you'd prefer, I like 69 for wood and 65 for tupperdor):
https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-2-Way-Humidity-Control-Large/dp/B004LHSOBK/ref=sr_1_1_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502648826&sr=1-1&keywords=boveda+69

Distilled water/propylene glycol if you want to go that route:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040OEB6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hygrometer (I like round ones because a lot of humidors will have a cutout for the shitty analog hygro they all come with and the round ones will fit there):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004167OY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone let me know if I missed anything.

Edit: I didn't mention beads, the "soak this weird thing in distilled water" humidifier or kitty litter because I really don't think there's a good reason to steer someone towards them, but I really haven't ever used any of it so if someone wants to add something about those, please do.

DON’T DO THIS^

Get some of these.

Choose any RH that you prefer. They control the RH with a two-way process that will either absorb or release water depending on the need of the container. Also, some people recharge them with distilled water. I haven’t tried that yet.

I'm betting on wool dryer balls.

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Sheep-Premium-Reusable-Softener/dp/B00GA9P5P0

I would just buy a big envelope or ziploc bag like this and dump everything into it.

I bought microfiber cloths like this years ago and they're still in great shape. I also have some cloth napkins to set at the table with dinner, but I use the microfiber most of the time.

I keep them in a metal basket and throw them in the wash when dirty. I do use paper towels on occasion though, like when a frozen food instructs you to wrap something in a paper towel - although obviously that could be avoided if you really wanted to. I also use disposable wipes for cleaning really dirty stuff like around my toilet, because I would feel kind of icky throwing that stuff in with my wash. I still use the cloths for the majority of my wiping needs and it's cut down on my waste a lot.

Yeah this looks like moderate/severe eczema. Basically looks like my skin when I was a kid.

1. Food allergy testing. People with eczema have overactive immune systems, and the odds are good there is a food allergy issue as well. Better to know sooner rather than later.
   
   
2. Absolutely remove any scented detergents, soaps, perfumes, etc from her life to the extent you can. No fabric softener/dry sheets. Get some wool dryer balls to use as a way to soften fabrics instead of using residue-leaving sheets. No perfume or makeup. Scent free sunscreen.
   
   
3. She needs a steroid cream. There are several formulations (lotion, cream, ointment) and several strengths (typically from 0.05% to 0.25%). You need to find a dermatologist who actually cares enough to prescribe her one. This is a very routine treatment and shouldn't actually be causing you difficulty to find. So I'm very sorry for you and your daughter that this has been difficult so far. Steroid creams can be harmful with intense and long term use, but they will dramatically help flare ups get under control. And, luckily, less dangerous drugs are literally coming onto the market next year (Dupilumab and others).
   
   
4. House cleanliness. She may be having issues from dust, pet dander, mold, etc as well. Regular and intensive vacuuming and dusting and cleaning bed linens is critical.
   
   
5. Lotions need to be scent free and actually moisturizing. Some good ones to try other than the Cerave: Cetaphil, Aveeno (once you've ruled out oat allergy), Avene, and Aquaphor. Some of these brands make eczema-specific formulations that are worth a shot as well.
   
   
6. No more hot showers and lower the frequency of showering as much as you can.
   
   
7. Some home remedies that can help: bleach baths (google to make sure you've got the right ratios), oatmeal baths (you can buy packets of it on Amazon or in drug stores)
   
   
8. Education. Eczema has been called "the scratch that makes the itch." What this means is that sometimes an errant scratch is all it takes to set off an intense event of itchiness that makes you go crazy until you've ripped your skin open. She has to learn to try to resist the itching, because the more you scratch, the more you itch. It's so hard when you're a kid. But my mom would do things like putting gloves or socks on my hands at night to try to help. Benadryl, Zyrtec or other antihistamines may help as well.
   
   If you were doing things a few years ago that made it not as bad, start doing them again. Eczema is sometimes a lifelong affliction (my situation). It's a constant battle against the immune system, so you can't give up things that made a difference
   
   

Love mine!

You may want to invest in a Skunk Case as well to contain the smell and to protect your pricey investment.

Enjoy!

My best "hack" is to buy a stack of these. Keep a stack in the bathroom then before bed wipe down the sink, counter, and toilet quickly. Throw the rag in a separate laundry bag so you just wash the entire stack at once. I do the same in the kitchen at night. Grab a cloth and wipe down the sink and counters.

Every morning you wake to a clean bathroom and a clean kitchen.

I have about 10 of these in my backpack at any given moment.

Go ahead and laugh but they serve two purposes, cleaning up after using the restroom or freshening up in general after you've been on a sweaty train. They fucking work and it helps you feel less gross until you can take a shower.

Overview

Time to finally do my car during the weekend of July 30th. This car had not been detailed since July 2014 and has had a lot more miles added on it. Sunday, 7/16/17, this car turned 5 years old and is now at 53k miles.

This car is garage kept at home for most of the time. Parked in an open parking lot during work hours. Sometimes street parked. It experiences full Chicago winters though and all elements. Sees all driving modes from stop-and-go traffic to 130mph+ highway cruises and local streets.

The goal was to get everything I wanted done on a Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Friday it decided to rain several times during the wash, but that was all good. I still kept washing in the rain and used the rain as some of my rinses. I had to get out of dodge by 4pm Sunday so I could avoid the country bugs on my drive back home to the city.

I left the following on the table to get done before winter comes:

• Windshield restoration (full polishing and treatment application)
  
• Headlight and Tail Light Restoration (just need to be polished and then have coating applied)
  
  ---
  
  

  Work Done
  

  
  The goal was to get it done so now I don't have to worry about it again for another 2-3 years. I wanted to get the paint corrected to an acceptable level and then put a good amount of protection on it to survive at least 2 winters and 2 summers.
  
  As the title states, I tried to accomplish a lot here.
  
  

• Wash, Clay, & Protectant
  
• Paint Correction
  
• Paint Coating (2 layers)
  
• Tip Restoration
  
• The Exceptional Interior
  
• Paint Chip Repair
  
• Trim Restoration
  
  Services described here
  
  The entire detail is outlined in the album, but I will share the gist of it here so I can link products.
  
  The exterior was properly washed with our 20-stage decontamination and wash process. Here is the fire hose nozzle I use tied up with a quick shut-off valve. TRIX was awesome as always. It turned a good amount of purple all over and made the claybarring step go smoothly. The entire car was 1-step corrected with the PC and a Blue Wool Pad/orange 4" foam pad/hand orange pad and Menzerna Heavy Cut Compound 400 (formerly FG400).
  
  The car was around a 85% for paint quality. I'd say this 1-step easily got it to ~93%. It removed the majority of glaringly obvious defects and it would only take a detailer's mindset now to see that final 7% of defects.
  
  The exterior was completely wiped clean with CarPro Eraser. The car was then coated entirely with CarPro CQuartz (2 layers) and then topped with CarPro Reload.
  
  The interior was vacuumed and then was completely cleaned with McKee's 37 Total Interior Cleaner. This product is my go-to for interiors. It works flawlessly and it has a great smell that does linger and just smells naturally clean. I use these types of interior clothes for working with that product. This brush was also utilized to help really get around the leather pores and locations like air vents and the steering wheel.
  
  All interior hard surfaces were treated with Lexol Premium Protectant. Glass was all cleaned with glass MF towels and Stoner's Invisibile Glass.
  
  I cleaned the engine. Finally. The engine was completely cleaned using Chemical Guy's All Clean+ and just general microfiber clothes from a place like AutoZone. The engine was then dressed with Adam's In & Out Spray to enhance the appearance of all plastic/rubber parts.
  
  Door jambs were cleaned up with an MF and P21S Total Auto Wash.
  
  Paint chips were fixed up with the Dr. Colorchip kit. Felt good to finally clean that rust chip on the hood and fix the trunk damage up some more.
  
  The honeycomb grills were cleaned up with a foam application, MF towel, and Klasse All-in-One. Topped with Adam's In&Out Spray.
  
  The exhaust tips were cleaned up using 0000 Steel Wool and Blue Magic Metal Polish and Adam's Metal Polish #1. I used a metal polishing microfiber towel to aid in this process.
  
  The trim was cleaned with the CG All Clean+ and then dressed with Chemical Guys Natural Matte Shine Dressing.
  
  The tires were dressed with AMMO MUD and the wheel wells shined up with Adam's Undercarriage Spray. Wheels were cleaned up with a very soft microfiber and P21S Wheel Cleaner.
  
  ---
  
  

  Response
  

  
  I loved it. It feels so good to drive it again like this. Just want to touch up a few more things and I'll be fully satisfied. I absolutely am so much happier now that my engine is clean again.
  
  
  ---
  
  

  Reflection and Lessons Learned
  

  
  Not much here outside of just taking care of the car more. I neglected that engine bay for too long but thankfully it was mostly dust. The exhaust tips should have been taken care of more. At least every spring/fall. I will continue to take care of them now 2x a year so they can maintain where they are at and not get worse.
  
  Preventative maintenance very much applies to detailing as much as it applies to anything mechanical.
  
  ---
  
  Total Time: 17 hours on exterior, 3 hours on interior
  
  Total Cost: Obviously free for me, but to give an idea of what I would have charged for this...it would have been $1,933.98. The 2 layers of coating and Reload would have been $900 alone. The rest of my prices you can see on my site.
  
  www.chicagosdad.com
  
  www.facebook.com/chicagosdad
  
  Former Chicago's DAD /r/AutoDetailing Detail Write-Ups

Here is an alternative, and what I have been using for the last few hiking seasons... Stainless Steel Scrubbing Scouring Pads. They weigh pretty much nothing, can deal with just about anything inside of your pot/cup, and if there is moisture inside your pot/cup it will not matter as they are totally resistant to being wet all day, in between meals. They will not damage any of the aluminium, stainless steel, and/or titanium pots/cups that we all use. I even use one inside of my MSR Ceramic Solo Pot, which normally you would think would be a huge no-no, but so far it has caused zero damage to the ceramic lining. I cut my scrubber in half, as they are rather large. They last a freaking long time (easily get an entire hiking season out of one of them), and you do not have to worry about nasties building up inside of them like those sponge scrubbers, or worse, a bandana, and if you really feel like getting one of these clean, you can just toss it into your pot/cup with some boiling water, without any worry. It really has become the ideal cleaning method/device for me. Give one of them a try!

I used Renaissance wax. I also sanded the band up to 4000 grit to a matte finish. click

They make individually packaged butt wipes, if you're worrying about how you'd be able to surreptitiously use wipes at work. Check out Dude Wipes on amazon (as an example).

edit: non-affiliate link - http://www.amazon.com/Dude-Wipes-Flushable-Singles-Travel/dp/B008LXBZF2

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

• Polisher - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html (no matter what you want a dual action polisher, as other kinds require more skill to avoid damaging your paint)
  
• Cutting pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compoundcutting-foam-pad-60311.html
  
• Polishing pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-polishing-foam-pad-60309.html
  
• Ultimate compound - http://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?sa-no-redirect=1 (you can skip if your paint isn't bad, no bad swirl marks or scratches)
  
• Ultimate polish - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001O7PNNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1P9X3VP7TVA943BYC6C7
  
• Sanding block - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQYZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (if you're going to use touch up paint)
  
• Microfiber rags - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Wax applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
• Duragloss - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W0ZNIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Color matched touch up paint (if needed) - http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
  
• Detail clay - http://smile.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414207600&sr=1-2&keywords=clay+bar
  
• Foam applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZPW/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
  Basic steps:
  
  

1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
   
2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
   
3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
   
4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
   
5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.
   
   You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
   
   The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
   
   

• How to use a dual action polisher - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrse_DBaUbc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MYqiBLIU9c
  
• How to touch up paint - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15T08rfuTSg
  
• How to clay your car - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqW1nzgyMNA
  
  And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
  
  edit: two other tips...
  
  

1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
   
2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.

Is $5 too much? This is cigar suicide..

Gotta get one of these kinds of lighters.
https://www.amazon.com/Tesla-Coil-LightersTM-Rechargeable-Windproof/dp/B016P8A1K4/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=usb+lighter&qid=1555829717&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Not the guy you're asking but here are my thoughts. There is pretty much no penlight on the market that will do what he wants, and it will be laughably ineffective regardless. If he needs something tiny, get him a Streamlight Stylus USB. That's gonna be about the brightest thing you can get with any ""tactical"" potency.

If you can talk him into a 14500 or 18650 light then he's more likely to get the power he wants. If he can handle having a solid chunk of aluminum on him, the Streamlight ProTac 2L-X and Wowtac A1S BSS v3 are going to be my choices for an inexpensive strobe machine. The Olight M1X Striker is another choice in this general form factor.

Streamlight also makes the ProTac 1L-AA which is a little smaller, but it only puts out 350 lumens.

All the lights I have posited outside the Stylus USB have easy access to the strobe mode, typically a double or triple tap on the tail switch. This is important to my mind because many lights require the light to be on and a button to be held for one second - practically useless and too long to get to if really needed.

I really hope that he does a big long think about what he wants out of this flashlight, and I hope he tries to "stun" himself with his flashlight to see what its like to be on the receiving end. The reaction he has, being prepared for it, is the best he can hope for in any situation in which he uses the strobe against someone. Its not like in the TacLight commercials.

I wrote a couple more of my thoughts on using a flashlight for self defense a little while ago if you find it handy. I personally like having the strobe and I would use it in an emergency situation, but its very important to note its limitations.

Skunkcase

I cook primarily on cast iron. Here are some things I've learned:

1. If you are lucky, you'll be able to find some vintage cast iron. You won't regret it. I'm not talking collector status 1800's stuff, but the stuff made in the 1950's is WORLDS better than modern Lodge stuff. Check out craigslist. Don't pay more than $20-$30 for a pan. Most people think they have a collector item worth $100 or more, but if you do a little research, you can pick out some nice pans for cheap, and be educated is very helpful in negociating. I picked up a set of 6 pans off CL for $50 (Griswold and unmarked Wagner pans, pre-1950's).
   
   
2. When you have your pans, you need to clean/ season them. DON'T use flax oil. It is hard, but as a result it is very brittle and won't last. This guy has the best videos detailing how to clean/season cast iron. The TL;DW is:
   
   
   1. Clean pans using a self cleaning oven cycle, you can beat the shit out of these pans cleaning them. Clean, unseasoned pans will rust in a matter of minutes, do not worry.
      
      
   2. Season. If you bought new pans, start here. You'll want to rub a thin layer of Crisco onto your PREHEATED (this opens up pores in the iron) ALL OVER, inside, out, even in the handle notch. Then, you take another dry towel and try to wipe it all off<--very important. You just want a thin film, any more than that you will get sticky drips of unpolymerized oil. This thin film will be your base seasoning, and done properly will prevent rust. Bake upside down @350 for ~30-45 mins. to polymerize the fat.
      
      
3. General care. Get yourself a set of these. Any supermarket should have them. They scrub pretty much anything off a properly seasoned pan. For tougher messes, boil a thin layer of water to loosen up the gunk. You should avoid cooking any acidic foods in cast iron: wine, vinegar, tomatoes, citrus will all mess with your seasoning. NEVER leave the pans wet. Even well seasoned pans will rust if left wet. Wash and dry right away. You should not use soap, I use a little bit if the pan is particularly greasy, but soap will weaken the seasoning. You can always rub a bit of oil on the pan after cleaning if you are worried about rust.
   
   Additional tips:
   
   -Don't be too concerned about aesthetics. These pans can take a beating. The inside/outside will become discolored with heavy use.
   
   -Cast iron pans are a healthy choice. They are a great way to increase your iron intake, something you don't get with enameled cast iron. To be honest, well seasoned cast iron, although less nonstick than Teflon cancer pans, is more nonstick than enameled cast iron. The pans impart a bit of iron to your food when you cook in them. Low iron makes you sleepy, and if you consume a lot of dairy, it blocks iron absorption. Vitamin C increases iron absorption.
   
   -Learn to cook properly with these pans to get the most out of them. Use fat, don't be afraid of it, you don't consume most of the fat that you cook your food in.
   
   -Coconut oil is a great healthy option and can be bought for cheap at Sam's/Costco/BJ's, Also look for any ethnic grocer that sells Swad brand products, their coconut oil is bomb and quite cheap.
   
   -Don't use olive oil. It can be oxidized to a trans fat at high heat (only unsaturated fats can do this, trans fats are the only fats scientifically linked to heart disease).
   
   -Preheat the pan! If it isn't sizzling when you drop it in, it WILL stick. Don't try to flip things too early, it will also stick, you want a nice crust to form.
   
   Best of luck!
   

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CQTXBC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497305129&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=metal+scrub+pad&dpPl=1&dpID=41h3cypvWmL&ref=plSrch
These will also take it right off.

There's always opportunity in failure! Might be time to update processes so a similar issue doesn't recur. You could invest in some large plastic storage bags when you bring items in. Adding such a control may reduce your liability from certain risks like bugs, water, or other accidents.

Definitely read the wiki cover to cover for all the general specifics.

To answer your questions:

> Do I leave them in the wrappers they came in when I store them in the humidor?

The wrapper is the outer most layer of tobacco on the cigar. Cigars consist of filler, binder, and wrapper. What you're referring to is the cellophane (cello) and it's really up to personal preference. I think a good rule of thumb is "store them how you buy them." If they're in cello when you buy them, just leave them in. The pro is that it'll protect the wrapper. The con is that it supposedly won't age a quickly, but that's a) supposedly and b) we're talking about storing cigars for years and I'm guessing you're not at that step yet.

> Is distiller water ok to use for the humidifier?

Yes, this is what you should use. What kind of humidifier are you using? If you're using the floral / foam puck, pitch it and get some 69% or 65% Boveda packs. You need about 2 packs for every 50 cigars you're storing.

> How long can I store em' before I smoke em'?

The short answer is "forever under ideal conditions." Ideal condition is about 68F and 68% relative humidity (RH). You may want to let them "rest" in your humidor for a few days after you buy them because sometimes they're over/underhumidified at Brick & Mortar (B&M) cigar shops.

> Advice for tasty cigars?

• Smoke slowly (one puff per minute).
  
  
• READ A LOT
  
  
• READ SOME MORE. Edumacate yourself.
  
  Welcome and good luck! PM me if you have any more questions.
  

Tupperware Though this has been cheaper at Target. Ship to store there might be worth it to you.

Hygrometer 1 or 2 depedning on what you like.

Boveda You will need two per container you get. They also have 4 packs. I would suggest 65% RH with a tupperdor.

Hey there, welcome!

I do want to warn you, there are a lot of Cuban Cigar (CC) fakes out there. Likely if you bought from a shop and they aren't Cohibas, you're probably fine, but you may want to check out habanos.com (looks like their standard map is down however) and see if the map isn't there.

That said, CCs aren't terribly hard to get in the US and there's a few sites that ship them by the box to the states. We have regular box splits on here (one person buys a box and ships it out at cost to other people in smaller batches, say 5 cigars each), and there's plenty of folks on /r/CigarMarket that will provide you some CCs if you search, or you can check out /r/cubancigars too. Funny enough they're usually much cheaper than what you paid in Canada because basically no taxes.

Honestly, I don't think there is much "working up" needed to smoke a CC. They're relatively mild compared to Dominican or Nicaraguan tobacco (in the grand scheme of things... of course there's bold Cuban and mild Dominican). Now, if we were talking about a Padron or a La Flor Dominicana, then yes, I'd say you'd need to smoke for a few months before you can be sure that the nicotine won't make you literally sick (rare but it can happen). Cubans? Nah, totally great for a newbie to smoke.

Also if you're new to cigars, don't let those things sit out. Get yourself a tupperware container and a boveda pack: https://www.amazon.com/Sistema-Collection-Rectangle-Storage-Container/dp/B00284AG5U/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_2/135-6339489-8039356?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=74QK8XTVDEZSBPPK0WZ3 and https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-65-Percentage-Individually-Wrapped-Humidity/dp/B00FWPQ8WC/ref=pd_sim_79_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MYA4CBWYAZRPR8N5JEKH

If you don't store the cigars in an airtight container with humidification, they'll dry out and not be the tasty smokes you were expecting.

Now, if you do want to keep your first CCs as a special smoke, I totally understand. Do keep them humidified though. Without humidification they will wither and eventually the oils will dry out and they won't be recoverable at that point (years without humidification but that isn't out of the question when you buy them and save them) But overall, they're not hard to get, smoke great, and are totally fine for a beginner to smoke. I say light 'em up! You can replace CCs easily enough.

Get this stuff. It's FANTASTIC!! Best results are when you get a good amount of rags tho. Apply some of that scrub, clean rag, clean off. Repeat until it's to your liking.
Here's how mine came out, not a drastic difference because I don't let it build too much, but it works wonders!

Try it with a microfiber cloth like these (that's just an example so you can see what I mean lol). I've used the simple brand with the microfiber cloths and it gets the makeup off pretty well. What I find works best is to use the cloth and baby oil first. Baby oil+microfiber cloth gets off EVERYTHINg, even waterproof stuff. It's amazing and won't clog pores or anything like that. I use the micellar water after to cleanse and get rid of the oil.

I got mine from Amazon.

I Just moved from NH to CA like last month the drive is awesome because its basically the same highway the whole time. I just drove packed all my clothes in zip loc big bags don't even fuck with a suit case just lay these bad boys down somewhere. I drove so I had to leave a lot behind. If you drive get AAA the discount in hotels will pay for your membership.

Ziploc Big Bag Double Zipper, X-Large, 4-Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U6A3EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lnM3DbXJ9EDRC

Target used to have them and possibly still do.

Here's my advice since I literally just started a few weeks ago. This is exactly what I wished I knew before I spent money on random cigars from various sites.

1. Depending on how many sticks you plan on getting at a time, invest in a tuppedor. Don't waste your time with a wooden humidor (at least right now). I picked up these from amazon and all my ~40-50 sticks sit comfortably in there.
   

• Plastic "humidor"
  
• Hygrometer
  
• Boveda Packs, although I might lean towards the 65% next time. Also, you only need 1 pack in a tuppedor, 2 is overkill. They can also be recharged, so don't throw them away when they dry out.
  
  

2. If you have a nice brick and mortar tobacco store (not a hole in the wall place that caters only to e-cigs and accessories) near you, visit them and ask questions. If they are worth their salt, they should be fairly knowledgeable about cigars. They will point you in the right direction. I stupidly didn't do this and just kind of bought random shit online and have had mixed results with what I bought. The stuff I've bought at the store has been much, much fresher too. However, you will be spending 30-40% above what you'll pay online. I found it worth it for how much time and effort the staff spent helping me, but it is quite a bit more expensive.
   
   
3. If that's not an option, look for sampler packs online. You can find cheap options that include a bunch of different sticks so you can sample a variety. I would suggest looking at smallbatch mixes find a price you're comfortable with spending (30 to 40 should be plenty, maybe buy 2 of the $30 to $40 packs so you end with ~10 cigars) and in the comment section of your order mention that you're brand new to cigars. He should be able to make an excellent mix for a new smoker. Use code "rcigars" for 10% off (without the "", not sure if valid for the mix).
   
   
4. Also, if you don't come from a background of smoking cigarettes, stick with the mild to medium strength cigars. I smoked a few full strength ones from the samplers I got and they kicked my ass. It was unpleasant to say the least. If you DO plan on smoking a full strength cigar, smoke on a full stomach and drink something sweet with it. Sweet tea or a pop of some sort works well to quell the nicotine content.
   
   
5. Accessories. All you really need is a decent cutter and a torch lighter and you're all set.
   

• A cutter
  
• A butane lighter
  
• Fuel [Note, you can use cheaper fuel, but your lighter may get clogged with shitty zippo butane fuel.]
  
• Some sort of ashtray. You don't realize how nice it is to have one until you don't have one and have no place to rest your cigar.
  
  

6. If you do find a cigar you enjoy, try buying a 5 pack of it. Let it rest for a week or so and try them out over the course of a month or several months and see if you enjoy them as much as you did the first time. See if they get better with age. I have far too many 1 offs that I enjoyed, but would I still enjoy them a month from now? 2 months from now?
   
   
7. Oh, and generally stay away from infused cigars. They use shittier tobacco since they can mask it with flavors. The girlfriend still likes these, but I think she's starting to come around to a natural sweetness/chocolate taste instead of an artificially infused one. Plus they stink up your humidor and can potentially ruin the taste of your other cigars in them if they are in close contact.
   
   
8. Online sites that I've enjoyed purchasing from and ship quickly:
   

• http://store.cigarfederation.com/
  
• http://www.smallbatchcigar.com
  
• http://www.holts.com
  
• Stay away from Thompson Cigars. I've also had issues with jrcigars. They held my order for no reason and I had to contact them to ship it out. I ordered it over 10 days ago and still haven't seen anything, although it's supposed to be here on Tuesday.
  
  

9. Look up retrohaling. You'll taste more of your cigar this way. Warning, it does burn the hell out of your nose the first handful of times you do it. Start with a mild cigar instead of a full strength one like I stupidly decided to do. :P
   
   Hopefully this helps.
   
   Edit: Many edits to fix errors and add additional info.

I had one of these clothes lying around, and I found if I folded it once and wore it over my head, I could wear the rift much loser and gain a ton of long term comfort. It allowed me to play skyrim VR for hours straight, where typically I get odd strap pains that only manifest over long sessions.

Edit: Trick works on Vive Deluxe strap too, and it does a ton to make the Vive tolerable comfort wise.

http://www.amazon.com/Tesla-LightersTM-Rechargeable-Windproof-Lighter/dp/B016P8A1K4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=proatpok-20&linkId=4360336e95061858cb3ab621297aa84e

CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4m10CbSFZ3KAD

Got one of these for my 2 and it does the job really well. Hinge, lock, etc.

Pax 2 / Pax 3 Smell-proof Hard Plastic Case; Pocket-carry with Flip-top for Easy Access (Black) By Skunkcase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3wTBybXHEH8ZA

I asked my mobile service tech and he reminded this but I haven't tried it yet: CarGuys Super Cleaner - The Most Effective All Purpose Cleaner Available on The Market! - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N9gaCb5ST6WSK

Ya the only case I use is to hide the smell. So not really the question your asking but the skunkcase is fantastic, durable and water proof.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9HaMAbW8GQMX1

Do you have hard water? Hard water makes clothes stiff and hard. Add a water softener to your water system.

Experiment with different types/amounts of detergent.

Get these - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GA9P5P0/

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Sheep-Premium-Reusable-Softener/dp/B00GA9P5P0

Use a cleaner that works for multiple fabrics, and not specifically for leather. Example: Car Guys has a multi-purpose cleaner that is highly rated. At $17 I feel it's a little expensive, but might be worth picking up when it goes on sale: https://www.amazon.com/CarGuys-Super-Cleaner-Effective-Upholstery/dp/B071XB18BF/

Same with the "conditioner", I use a multipurpose spray which gives the seats an additional layer, but also makes the seats sound squeaky: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KN0UOEE/

You just need one of these.

The good news is cheaphumidors.com is actually a fairly well respected site by this sub. I can only hope that's where he got it =) We even get a nice 15% off with them. (See the side bar - Cigar Deals)

That being said, grab a couple of these bad boys - Bodeva 84% packs. You should only need one to season your humidor. Follow the instructions on/in the package.

For calibrating - Install the analog one, and forget it. Its now a glorified cork for your humidor. Grab a digital one and a calibration kit.

Welcome to the family!

[Here is your answer friend] (http://www.amazon.com/Boveda-One-Step-Hygrometer-Calibration-Kit/dp/B000A3UBLA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426032544&sr=8-1&keywords=boveda+calibration+kit)

If it's metal of some sort, you can produce a mirror finish by following these steps.

• Step 1: Wet sand using 1000-2000 grit sand paper
  
• Step 2: Apply Blue Magic Metal Polish (or similar)
  
• Step 3: Apply several light coats of clear paint
  
  Notes:
  
  
• Step 1 is optional if the surface is in good condition (but will require more work in step 2)
  
• Step 2 will go a lot faster if you use a dremel / drill / grinder with a polishing wheel
  
• Step 3 is optional if you don't mind repolishing at a later date
  
• All the products should be available at your local auto parts store (Advance Auto, AutoZone, etc.).
  
  Links:
  
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixrlPYcRvjM
  
• http://www.amazon.com/3M-03023-Imperial-Wetordry-Sandpaper/dp/B005RN0ISY
  
• http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCL0125-Clear-Exact-Match-Automotive/dp/B00407NK6A
  

Not OP, but I use this for polishing.

Amazon

Probably the best product to coat your barrel with to prevent rust is Renaissance Wax. This is what museums use to protect metal, and other, objects in their collections.

Get a belt sander and some low grit for the flat surfaces. Have one of these for the detail work: Triangle Scraper

And sometimes good old fashioned NaOH for the older paints AKA Lye worked the best on our base layers of paint, which we thought might be milk paint.

God speed.

Amazon sells it, and it's pretty cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Grade-Sodium-Hydroxide-Micro-Beads/dp/B001EDBEZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381245711&sr=8-1&keywords=cooking+lye

So first off, always test for lead on any pan you don't know where it's been. But that has to be done while the pan is stripped. You can't tell if it's lead without the test.

Burning off on a grill can lead to warping. Just use oven cleaner or a lye bath.

Use stainless steel wool, not steel wool. Steel wool can leave particles behind that prevents adhesion of seasoning via rapid corrosion.

The dark spots are some sort of light pitting. A lot of pans have these stains. The only real way to get rid of them is electrolysis, and even then I have pans with shadows on them. The good news is that the dark spots will disappear with seasoning and the rough patch will eventually, with use, fill in with seasoning.

Nice little pan, btw!

Welcome to r/cigars!

First thing you need to do is get rid of that paper towel asap! You will over humidify your cigars and you might get mold too! Go to your local B&M and get a boveda pack or order one online. Then use an air tight tupperware container to hold your cigars and humidity. Super cheap and many many people use this as an option. As for building your own. Get an ammo can or a gun case and line it with spanish cedar. It will hold humidity perfectly and you'll get your woodworking skills a bit wet for your next bigger project.

Sistema Klip It Collection Rectangle Food Storage Container, 29 Cup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00284AG5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_xrm2j1LMyVMWG


Caliber IV Digital Hygromter by Western Humidor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXOKQVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9KjCtKfo9QUur


Boveda 69% Rh 2-Way Humidity Control, Large 60 g, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LHSOBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o5LMyb0GGBK1P

My pleasure.

This is what a bunch of people use including my self. I do have a real wood burl humidor but I find this so much easier.

https://www.amazon.com/Sistema-Microwave-Collection-Noodle-31-7oz/dp/B00284AG5U/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Sistema+KLIP+IT+Rectangular+Collection+Food+Storage+Container%2C236+Oz&qid=1569968747&sr=8-1


And for the Boveda people usually use between 65% and 70% I recommend this.

https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-2-Way-Humidity-Control-Large/dp/B004LHSOBK/ref=sxts_kp?keywords=boveda+67&pd_rd_i=B004LHSOBK&pd_rd_r=7b646bb8-358c-4cf6-a16c-a33cbe3765ab&pd_rd_w=BR0KH&pd_rd_wg=td0lO&pf_rd_p=81d99bd4-f902-4b23-8928-b05d50fd5b3c&pf_rd_r=TKJPQR38W0MAYQX607YQ&qid=1569968891

Honestly, the kit is only an OK deal. It's fairly overpriced for what it contains.
For less money (assuming I'm looking at the same bundle as you), I'd get the following:

• http://amzn.com/B00BS3GM7I - same foam gun, different branding
  
• http://amzn.com/B00BJCAPEE - Mr. Pink is PH balanced soap that foams extremely well, and is just as good in buckets. Citrus Wash and Gloss will strip wax.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00RDMBTNA- Microfiber wash mitts.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00ANZHG7C- Cheap, half decent microfibers.
  
• http://amzn.com/B00EVY2LKI - Drying Towels
  
  Also, it's really important, at least in my opinion, to have 2 buckets and Grit Guards. I'd get two of these: http://amzn.com/B00ABYVTZA and pick up some buckets at Home Depot or Lowes, or order one of the bucket/grit guard kits from Autopia.
  
  Finally, Microfibers are an investment as long as you take care of them. What I linked is cheap, OK quality stuff. Check out The Rag Company, and maybe consider getting one of their starter packs for better rags.

This tupperware and couple of boveda 65% humidity packs is an easy and inexpensive way to go. I have a couple of these now that I use as well because my desktop humidor is full and I don't want to spend more money on another one when I can spend it on more sticks

Looks good. A couple thoughts:

Those analog hygrometers suck. Get a good digital hygrometer. I recommend the Caliber IV.

Which method are you using for humidity control? If yours using the sponge that usually comes with those or "gel" stuff you add distilled water to, I'd recommend ditching it. Boveda Packs are so easy to use and offer 2-way humidity control. That is, they add humidity and remove humidity when necessary. Many humidity control mediums only add humidity.

If you can't maintain humidity, to to a Tupperdor. I use those and I've never looked back.

Until someone more knowledgeable chimes in and asks for more pictures... PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE put those in a tightly sealed tupperware with some sort of humidification device. Preferably a Boveda pack

Just get this, it's well worth $8.

If you don't want mold on your cigars, then you need a hygrometer you trust. Based on your post, you currently do not have one.

Go online and find a digital one that can be calibrated, this one for example would work. I have several of these and they work great.

Once it arrives, you will need to calibrate it. Boveda makes a calibration kit that works very well. There are other methods, like the salt test that could work. However the calibration test is my preferred method.

I carry a couple microfibers in my bag to work and use them: not these exact ones but something like this

Awesome idea! If you love that person that much more, just had to share a step up from this product without having to know tire pressure: http://www.amazon.com/FOBO-Bluetooth-Compatible-Monitoring-Motorcycles/dp/B00WBD00FO

Added this to my wheels and having pressure and a quick temperature readout in the morning before leaving my kitchen is pretty insanely nifty.



Other ideas for OP:

Freezeout Balaclava: http://www.amazon.com/FREEZE-OUT-Balaclava-Black/dp/B0096R08W8/

Microfiber Cloths (great for visor wipes, general cleaning, and wiping condensation off the bike in the morning): http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-36-Pack-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

Cat Crap (visor antifogger): http://www.amazon.com/EK-Ekcessories-10003P-AM-Anti-Fog-Cleaner/dp/B002BHWZFI/

Lock Laces: http://www.amazon.com/LOCK-LACES-Elastic-Tie-Shoelaces/dp/B00975EAJ6

Motorcycle Tire Inflator (fits under my seat easily): http://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Motorcycle-Tire-Inflator/dp/B000ET9SB4/

>1) I was just a dumbass for using the scouring pad

Possibly?! Was it like This Or more like This ?


I've never had anything stick so bad that a little hot water and one of These couldn't get it off easily.

-------------

>2) I was seasoning them with too-thin coats of oil

Not likely, you want it wiped down almost dry, you sound like you did good here.

-------------

>3) The quality of my seasoning was somehow marred by tiny bits of rust I couldn't see

Tiny invisible rust won't hurt. But oiling over a raw pan that's not 100% dry and then baking, can cause issues with the seasoning sticking.

-------------

For a long time this Flax seed oil method has been praised as being the end all and be all of seasoning cast iron. More and more lately I've been hearing stories like yours. There's got to be something to it. Either people are doing it wrong, or it's not really as good as people say. All I can say is that people seasoned pans without issue for the last 100+ years using whatever kind of grease they had on hand, and it worked just fine.


I've had pretty good luck with Olive Oil (Even though others may disagree). I've since moved on to using Sunflower oil and like it very much. I use only metal utensils, and only scrub with the pads I linked above and have never had the issue of seasoning flaking off.


Edit

Here's a few links with other people having problems with their Flax seasoning. Maybe you can glean some info from them.



My Flax seed problem.


"It worked nice. I was happy. But it didn't last."


"I like using olive oil better because olive oil in thin layers do not flake off like flaxseed for me"


After 8 coats, the surface looked great, the eggs slide off nicely and I thought we were golden. Then...the seasoning started to wear/cook off quickly.

I tried one of those on a really dirty tub once, and it did not work well at all. It did look a fair bit cheaper than the one you linked. But what worked the absolute best was one of those stainless steel scrubby things.

Don't worry, ZipLock's got OP covered

Here is the link. It is worth what surprisingly little it costs :D and it ships really fast, too. Yay Amazon!

This is the setup I have.

The container:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00284AG5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Hygromter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JXOKQVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Boveda Packs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LHSOBK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cedar tray (optional):

https://www.amazon.com/Spanish-Cedar-Tray-HUMI-TRAY-Cigar/dp/B00B9234HE/ref=pd_bxgy_79_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00B9234HE&pd_rd_r=JS6RQJY49RAXMS0VRDF6&pd_rd_w=vNV6l&pd_rd_wg=ZB7Ip&psc=1&refRID=JS6RQJY49RAXMS0VRDF6

i was curious, decided to search for penis wipes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008LXBZF2/ref=pd_aw_fbt_121_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2E0M8RXZ0KT8W33BDTC6

read the product description, see photos of the founders, tell me that isn't the most white dudebro thing you've ever seen

what is so "dude" about them anyway? it seems like luxury wipes, why would they only market them to men LOL


my, this was a fun couple of minutes

TO ALL NOOBS looking to build a tupperdore. Or seasoned guys looking to build yet another: [Here is a great piece of tupperware](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OW0Y000/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1] on amazon. I recently got it and I couldn't be happier. Great size, great seal, and even has a moisture tray (I just put my boveda packs under that).

Here's a great Humidity/temp gauge

For humidity, Boveda packs are the way to go. A lot of the guys here suggest 65% humidity. Mine is at 69% but I may cut back, we'll see.

Also smoke a Drew Estate - Undercrown. Medium bodied cigar with great flavors and a really nice sweet taste throughout. (Sorry if you've seen me say this many times, it's a great cigar haha)

EDIT Here's another, cheaper tupperware option suggested by /u/nicknameisnub

CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I've never regretted it for a second. I have two kids (1 and 4) I wasn't sure if the white dash would be broght/ distracting but it's not at all and I love it so much. Also EVERYONE thinks it's awesome. Plus it cleans very very well.

I use chemical guys CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-yEZDbPHFR6W5

Works like a magic. I just spray on microfiber and whip down a few times a month. KEEP THE WHITE😎

I keep my 105lb lab/Pitt mix in my back seat. Sometimes will double him up with my brother’s 100lb Bernie’s Mountain dog.

I use a dog hammock. I’m a clean freak too, so with this, ppf on the door sills, interior sprays and microfibers, and a battery dust buster, the interior stays flawless.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769YMHSC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0SM1Cb81N347Z

Another possibility is this. I got them for my dad and my brother last year (their birthdays are a couple weeks apart). It's an electric coil lighter made by Tesla. Basically, it's a lighter that uses electricity rather than fire. It's kind of cool because it's new technology, but it's also useful because you can use it in the wind and rain and it doesn't affect anything.

https://www.amazon.com/Tesla-Coil-LightersTM-Rechargeable-Windproof/dp/B016P8A1K4

This stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XB18BF

I have this one and really like it so far, I just spray it on microfiber and wipe down

car guys super cleaner

You have 6 pieces here, two of which are keys. It’s not a keychain in my opinion, it’s a rat’s nest of shit tied together and dangling from the ignition of your car.

Less is more.

Do you use the carabiner to hook the keys on your belt loop? If not, toss it. I would also toss the flashlight and buy one that you can clip onto your pocket.

Here is one that I would highly recommend. Been using it since I got my pax and have never had a problem with smell.

Olight AAA or a Streamlight 66608 if you need a clip.

The Nitecore Tube is really cool with it's infinite ramping. I loved mine till I lost it camping. But no pocket clip.

Hadn't seen the RovyVon before not sure how much faith I'd have in the little wire clip but otherwise looks like a solid option.

Pax 3 has the same foot print as the Pax 2. (meaning anything made for the Pax 2 will work on the Pax 3)

Sorry but it is Anodized Aluminum. There is no buffing to be done, you will only wear down the coating. Depending on the color you may have some luck with a sharpie and a steady hand.

Firstly I would suggest a skin. This is the one i got, actual carbon fiber feel not just printed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Skin-Wrap-For-PAX-2-PAX2-MOD-Vape-w-OVEN-TOP-Vinyl-Sticker-Decal-BLACK-CARBON/201334675953

Here are some other skins from the same shop

http://stores.ebay.com/707-Smart-Skins/_i.html?_dmd=1&_nkw=pax2

I had a Skunk Case for a while before the o-ring got loose and cause the hinge to break (partly my fault).

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Pocket-carry-Flip-top-Access-Skunkcase/dp/B01BFDN80Y

ID makes the cheapest smell proof option with their mylar bag.

https://www.interplanetarydevelopment.com/products/smell-proof-baggies-2-5x7-25

There's a wide selection on Amazon. I got a cheap one for 20$. Here's what I got http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016P8A1K4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?qid=1464042634&sr=8-1&keywords=tesla+lighter&pi=SY200_QL40

I know this may seem odd, but apparently quite a few people don't know how to do laundry correctly. Here are some pointers for you.

Washing:

• Turn the washer on and let it fill to about 1/4 of the way.
  
• Add detergent and swirl it around with your hand or a piece of clothing. This will help to mix up the water and detergent to get a much better clean. Too many times have I seen people add all their clothes then water then detergent or some other way that isn't correct.
  
• Then add your clothes. Adding clothes should be the last step for washing.
  
• If adding bleach, add it to the little slot that says "bleach". Don't just pour it into the water. There is a reason why there is a special slot for it. When adding bleach right away to the water, you lose some of the bleaching power because bleach breaks down in warm water. IIRC this little bleach slot sends the bleach to the bottom and releases it at certain time during the laundry load. ( I guess it depends on what washer though, so YMMV)
  
  Drying:
  
  
• Get These Dryer Balls and the lavender scent if you want.
  
• When removing your clothes from the washer into the dryer, take the extra few seconds and flap the wet clothes. What I mean by that is, after the wash cycle is done, all your clothes are bunched up into a tight mess due to the spin cycle. When you toss them in your dryer, you should feather them. This helps lower the dry time.
  
• Clean the lint trap! Drying time can be reduced if too much build up occurs. Also it's a fire hazard and gross. It's usually the little slide out filter thing on the bottom of where the door is.
  
• Once a year check the exhaust duct as well. This is the silver shiny hose coming from the back of your dryer. It can also build up stuff that passes the lint trap filter. I say once a year, but I think you can let it go for a few years without much worry. I just like my things to last so I clean it every year and inspect it.
  
  Pro-Tips:
  
  
• Don't let your clothes sit in the washer for days. Depending on your water type can determine how long you can leave your clothes sit in the washer after they are done. I try not to leave mine in for more than a few hours, but I know sometimes you can forget about them. This is typically where that musty smell will come from. Even though you just washed your clothes, if you let them sit in the washer for a few days, they become damp and rank. When you dry them, the smell is baked into the clothes. Then you gotta rewash them to get the smell out. And trust me, there aren't many girls/guys that like a dank musty mold smell if you're trying to attract a mate. Also, you're friends will be like "damn, that dude smell like a mushroom".
  
  I've cut my drying time in half for a full load of work clothes by doing this (yay for saving on my electric bill!). The Dryer Balls help to air out the clothes and move them about in the dryer. Also, they don't ruin your towels and clothes. I'm no animal activist, but if you look up info about dryer sheets, most are made with animal fat and chemicals. Over time, this is what can cause your towels to not be so absorbent. I have actually conducted a test with this, and so far so good. New towels (a year old) are still very plush and absorbent vs. the older towels I used dryer sheets with. There is plenty of info about this though, so don't just take my word for it (cue LeVar Burton)
  
  I can't format this apparently and am stupid for such reasons. :(

The real killer is dryer balls...

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Sheep-Premium-Reusable-Softener/dp/B00GA9P5P0

Looks like it's actually $21. Here's the one I have.
And with a $17 arc lighter you're still under $50. I've got the Tesla coil but it's just a single arc, so you might want to check out the dual arc types. I don't have any experience with those though

I keep reccomending these becuase they are really awesome and practical. Electronic Lighters They are so better then any gas lighters and are really cool!

Look for a Tesla Lighter, my brother has this style one but with a shiny black pantjob...they are awesome...so many slo-mo videos have been made lol

Here: https://www.amazon.com/Tesla-Coil-LightersTM-Rechargeable-Windproof/dp/B016P8A1K4

Sorry I'm on mobile.

I've got one of these Tesla Lighters. Depends on what you're lighting, though. Good for cigarettes, but you're limited in ho large something can be by the distance between electrodes. I've heard of some that have a wider arc, but can't attest to their quality. I've had my Tesla for 5 years, and while it's not an EDC for me (I carry a vintage Zippo my dad gave me), it's still working and can charge off any standard Micro USB cable.

Here's what I carry from your list:

Knife/multitool: Leatherman Skeletool - I use this so much for so many things it's ridiculous. They're as cheap as $20-$30 at Home Depot sometimes, but the average price is around $40-$45. Pliers, locking knife that's half-serrated, a bottle opener, and a reversible screwdriver bit. Add this bit kit for $5 to replace the bit with a single bit with both philips and flathead in one. (For some reason, the Skeletool ships with two bits that are just small/large flathead and small/large philips, necessitating changing the bit entirely to swap between types.)

Flashlight: I carry a Nitecore Mh12, but for your price point a Thrunite TC12, which I also own. It's based on the 18650 battery which has 4 times the capacity of an AA battery. Because this light is rechargeable via USB, you don't need a standalone charger to go with it. It's waterproof to 2 meters, shockproof to 1.5 meters, and has brightness settings ranging from 0.4 lumens (see where you're going in a dark house without waking an SO) to over 1,000 lumens, almost as bright as high-beams on a car. Yes, really. At it's lowest setting, it'll last almost 80 days. Yes, really. $69 on Amazon. Make sure you get the neutral white version (TC12 NW) as it's easier on the eyes and gives more accurate color. I've linked directly to it, bundled with about the highest-capacity battery you can get for it.

If you want to be a rockstar you could get her a 4-pack of batteries for another $50. And if she still needs to buy extra batteries, it will accept 2 CR123 batteries (not as common as AA, but still relatively common) instead, albeit with lower overall life than a single 18650 cell. Note: there are a lot of crappy, knock-off 18650 batteries out there that are not only unreliable, but also lie about their capacity and have been known to cause fires. The KeepPower batteries are great, reliable, high-capacity, and about as cheap as you'll find reliable cells for on Amazon.

Lighter: Apologies; I don't carry a lighter at the moment as I so rarely need one. /u/osufan19's suggestion of a Tesla Coil Lighter seems like a good one, though, and now has me thinking of adding it to my EDC for the coolness factor alone. $20 on Amazon, and here's a GIF of it in action. (Note: the waviness is someone blowing on it, I think.)

Keychain/holder: I like the KeySmart. However, some keys in India aren't standard sizes (depends on where she'll be), so bear that in mind. I've got the can opener and measurer on mine, but have yet to use either. I did, however, need extensions to add more keys. This will run you $19 on Amazon, but I'd recommend ordering that directly from KeySmart as they'll include the loop for attaching a car fob or nonstandard keys for free $5 more on Amazon), and other accessories are cheaper direct. I'd also recommend the extended version rather than the standard length, as longer keys (like a car key) fit better. Going direct, the total for an extended KeySmart with the loop, extensions for 2-14 kes (as opposed tio 2-8) and shipping will be $24.95.

Small bag/holder: I carry everything in my pockets, and it fits nicely/doesn't print. This may not work well for a woman, however, depending on her wardrobe. I wear jeans, and my pockets actually have room.

---

Total cost: For the knife, bits, and light (minus the extra batteries), you're looking at $131.63 at Amazon. Add the Keysmart and you're at $156.58, which is only slightly above your budget. The lighter adds another $20. It does not include the bag, however, so bear that in mind.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-836R-OS-Lint-Roller/dp/B00006IA8Q

Here you go

Lint rollers like these... http://www.amazon.com/3M-836R-OS-Lint-Roller/dp/B00006IA8Q

I wear lots of black and cycle between long red or purple hair ;-)

Why not just buy a modern 625? You can get them in multi packs from eBay sellers too. Not sure I fully understand all the people using the wrong batteries and making notes of meter compensation.

1. wein cell battery is the modern replacement for this camera although I had mine converted to use a Varta 625 battery when I had it repaired. apparently they last much longer. just remember to switch it off "A" when the camera isn't in use to conserve battery.
   
   
2. I've taken off the top of mine in an attempt to diagnose issues and it was pretty easy to dis and reassemble the cover/film advance leaver. I did not go any further than that. Havent tried to clean the viewfinder or anything either, that might be based on how good of shape it's in and if its worth the effort.
   
   
3. There are a lot of guides on youtube, I haven't tried it but I know you're going to need a spanner to do it.
   
   hopefully some of that was helpful, I know it doesn't answer everything, but it's what I know from my experience. outside of that I'm not sure and wouldn't want to lead you astray
   
   The canonet is a great little camera, a little over hyped but still pretty great, enjoy it!

Your method is good, and that polish is fine. I use BlueMagic metal polish (http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I) and love it but the Mothers stuff will work fine too.

Atrium Anniversary! 🥳

In honor of today’s Drop of the Abacus I decided to polish up my Copper Atrium and carry it today at work. I can’t believe it’s been two years since the original Atriums dropped. Preorders started 10/22/17.

After receiving it I ordered tritium vials in Green and Purple and added them with UV resin. Have been real happy with how they turned out and a delightful display in the night.

I have been letting my Copper pieces patina. But about once a year I have been repolishing them with Blue Magic and then recently started applying Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. I have been super impressed with this wax and how long Copper and Brass/Bronze items remain shiny. Some are free from patina even when they come back around in my rotation a month later.

Blue Magic 400 7 Ounce 7OZ MTL Polish Cream
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5h2PDbNMVKHCA

Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish (65 ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PosSl7D59dCRQ

Here's my method, I'll try to be thorough but bear with me, I'm at work.

What you'll need:

3 - MicroFiber Cloths

1 - Shampoo

1 - Eye Glass/Lens Cloth

1 - Isopropyl (99%)

2 - Spray Bottles

1 - Distilled Water

1. Get a few of these bad boys, can be purchased pretty cheap at any auto store / Target, if you have none around the house.
   
   
2. Lay down 1 Microfiber Cloth, place record on top.
   
   
3. Go to your bathroom, grab some shampoo, and drizzle a little bit around said record.
   
   
4. Spray down the shampoo / record with the distilled water, I use a water bottle, a little easier to control than a hose.
   
   
5. Take a second Microfiber Cloth (they usual come in packs anyways) and start wiping the record the way of the grooves. I try to start from the inside out in a clockwise motion. Somewhere between gentle and hard pressure, I guess that'd be medium pressure.
   
   
6. Flip record and repeat steps 3-5.
   
   
7. Head over to that sink! At an angle, so the water drips off the bottom and not onto the label, rinse off the record with the distilled water. (Don't worry about getting a little water on the label, it will dry if it's only a little, but I wouldn't recommend submerging them, they are only paper after all.) Flip and do both sides.
   
   
8. Now have another (dry) Microfiber Cloth ready on a flat surface, put a paper towel down on top of the cloth. Lay newly cleaned record down onto towel, take another paper towel and lay it flat on the record, pat dry.
   
   
9. Take a mixture (I use 35/65) distilled water and Isopropyl and spray it onto the record (I use four squirts from a smaller bottle).
   
   
10. Run a Lens Cloth around the record, again from inside out. This will help dry the record thoroughly and not scratch it up or leave fibers like a paper towel would.
    
    
11. Flip and repeat steps 9+10.
    
    
12. Lay newly cleaned record on sleeve somewhere to air dry any parts that may still be a tiny bit damp (label, etc) or my favorite, play your shiny new record.
    
    I've found this to be the simplest and most cost effective way to clean my records without buying anything special. I already had everything I needed around the house and it truly works wonders. I got a Tribe record for .99 cents, they said it was in terrible condition, skips, noise, the works. Took that sucker home, put it through my system, and it's almost like a brand new record, plays wonderfully.
    
    Whenever I bring a used record home I wash it. If I take out a record, put it on, there's surface noise, and a quick micro wipe down doesn't do the trick I'll give it a clean, usually 'cleans' the audio right up.
    
    Sorry this is so wordy, use method at your own risk, be gentle, records are friends. Easy Listening!

The food was mostly IBS and intolerance triggering stuff. I bought this pack of napkins and this pack of cloths from Amazon Prime. Even though I got the big pack of cloths I use them for all cleaning jobs. Also, getting my first set of cloth napkins in white will help me gauge how long they last and how dirty they get over time, so next time I repurchase in the next ~5 years I'll know how long they last until they get nasty enough to become rags. Sometimes I still need to use paper towels if I don't have any end of the line cloths to use and toss or if my cats poop somewhere they're not supposed to, which thankfully rarely happens.

These from Amazon are great for what you specified. This is a huge box of them for $17. That’s almost 4x as many for only $10 more. I bought 2 boxes under Subscribe and Save (not available any more) for about $14. I just trash them if they get nasty. They never touch paint though. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XECJES/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's a lovely piece, and an inventive way to decorate some pretty labradorite.

I use Renaissance Wax polish (Amazon) to finish all my oxidised work. It was was developed by The British Museum for protection of fine art and will not stain or discolour with aging. It is acid neutral, water and alcohol resistant. You may wish to re-apply this coating in time due to wear / usage.

Most oil is corrosive to iron-based metals. Use either WD-40 (good) or Renaissance Wax (better)

Essential Depot Pure Lye Drain... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EDBEZM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Amazon.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EDBEZM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the tips!

Go to home depot or lowes and buy a pack of these. They are around $2.50 for a pack of 3.

Sanitize 1. While you're doing that remove the liquid post and clear/re-sanitize it. When you put it back in, before pushing it all the way down use SS tongs or something to let you push the end of the dip tube into the middle of the pad. Push the dip tube all the way down and reattach post.

Problem solved for less than $1.

Try the Zip Lock Big Bags?

Personally, I wouldn't store your mattress or anything upholstered that you can't seal off like that... I've heard that it's best to avoid, for example, upholstered furniture for sale on Craigslist that is pictured in or says that it has been in a store unit because the risk of bedbugs is high.

I'm sorry to hear this. Honestly though, you often get what you pay for.

It actually looks really similar to this one. Except the whole thing is a darker red and the tip is about 2 inches long.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ECU1W2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ok, cancel you order from Thompson and lose their web address.

Then order these for humidification and this fo peace of mind.

edit: and if you don't have a tupperware yet, anything that looks like this with the sealing gasket will work. They sell them at target, walmart and everywhere online

There are a lot of us from DMV on here, and several good cigar shops in the area as well. What area in D, M, or V are you located?

If your humidifier has the green material in it, you probably want to pitch it. Eventually it will start to get moldy, which will then transfer to your cigars. The Drymistat tubes are good, and a lot of people here use Boveda packs (also available at most cigar shops). Other than a calibrated hygrometer -- again, common opinion here is to go with a digital one -- you're good to go with you humidor.

If you don't really care about looks, we suggest a tupperdor - much easier to maintain (read: no maintenance) and much cheaper.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WQSML4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

&

http://www.amazon.com/Boveda-2-Way-Humidity-Control-4-Pack/dp/B004LHSOBK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425328494&sr=8-1&keywords=boveda+69

• Being "regular" - those activia type yogurts can help
  
• Good diet in general (no fried, oily food, and avoid "low fat" processed food which has weird oil substitutes)
  
• lots of water all day, everyday
  
• lots and lots of fiber (take a supplement twice a day - i love these and they work really well but are pretty overpriced.)
  
• wet wipes
  
• Know your body (if you're not feeling right then you're not on the market).
  

So, so fragile!

Dude Wipes. Makes the butthole feel reallll niceee.


http://www.amazon.com/Dude-Wipes-Flushable-Singles-Travel/dp/B008LXBZF2

One of these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lock-Rectangular-Container-including-Freshness/dp/B000FDVE3E/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1462571437&sr=8-10&keywords=lock+n+lock

And a couple of these (use one at a time until they go hard)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Boveda-65-Percent-Individually-Wrapped-Humidity/dp/B00FWPQ8WC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462571485&sr=8-1&keywords=boveda+65

Will do the job.

Here's what I use. Saw some recommendations here, and skimmed the Amazon reviews to see lots of people using this setup too.
Container https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00284AG5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Spanish Cedar Trays https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9234HE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And two 65% Bovedas
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FWPQ8WC/ref=twister_B00P2HIJ2C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This setup will easily hold 50+ cigars. You can fit two of the trays, and the Bovedas fit on each end. I haven't had more than 27 cigars at a time in it yet, but they all fit in the top tray along with my hydrometer with some room for a few more. Right now, the bottom tray has air packets to help regulate humidity by reducing empty space.
Here's a pic: http://imgur.com/PsDM8oQ

I'm looking at these.

I admit I am a bit skeptical on why these would even work, but I do like the fact that I could use an essential oil like lemongrass or sandalwood to get a nice scent out of the clothing.

Currently this is the cheapest thing on my list!

And for the 20 item this set of Dragon Balls is close!

I need the lint roller because i always have cat hair on me from my white kitty cats and the dragon balls because...dragon balls. lol! I LOVE SHENRON <3

You can later. In the mean time, you're going to need one of these.

It's called a lint roller. You can get one at any general store. Here's some at amazon: https://www.amazon.com/3M-836R-OS-Lint-Roller/dp/B00006IA8Q

have you tried a lint roller?

You're looking for the Wein cell.

Wein Cell makes a great replacement for the original mercury battery. I'll provide the link below. The battery is the only one that is accurate, and is not too costly. I don't know how long the battery lasts, I hear it usually goes for 3 months before the battery wains. The camera can also shoot fully manual, with no battery in the camera at all. It's very handy for learning to shoot film, and also if the battery runs out you're not completely out of luck. I'd highly recommend the camera, I found it for $70 on eBay in very good condition, only needed new light seals. I love my camera, definitely look into it. http://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7

That's a great deal if the camera works. The SRT 102 has a match needle meter system, but you can operate the camera fully manually without a battery in it, as it is a fully mechanical shutter and aperture system.

In terms of what to check for for the SRT-102 specifically.

1. About half way through the production (or early on, I'm not sure of the details), Minolta stopped making them with the mirror lockup option. If that's important for you, make sure the one you're looking at has it.
   
   
2. Check to see if the mirror is stuck. As mentioned, if your model has a lockup, make sure that isn't engaged. If the mirror sticks after shooting, it may be that the bumper is degraded.
   
   
3. Shutter issues - the SRT102 has a cloth shutter, so make sure it's in good condition. If you have access to the camera before buying it, I'd highly recommend you shoot blanks (without film with the back open) to verify the magnitude of the shutter speeds (ie, 1/8 isn't the same sound as 1/250 isn't the same as 1/1000). Also look to see if the entire shutter curtain operates properly.
   
   
4. Check the light sealing, as it may need to be replaced.
   
   
5. Check the depth of field preview to make sure it's smooth and functioning. The SRT-102's works on a toggle. Push the tab in, and it will preview the DoF and button remains depressed. Press it again to release it (kind of like a ball point pen).
   
   
6. If the camera is mechanically sound (shutter is fine, film advance is smooth and not grindy, DoF preview is good) then I'd say 90$ is a great price for it, especially with that Rokkor-X f/1.4 nifty fifty. Is the glass clean?
   
   
7. If you care about the meter, verify its function both by using/bringing a mercury replacement cell and using the "B.C." function on the bottom of the camera. Also look through the glass to see if your exposure is approximately right (use sunny 16 or an external meter to verify). Also, this is a good opportunity to check if the battery terminals are mucky and shitty.

Like the others said, get a digital hygrometer. The analog ones are junk and shouldn't be trusted. The Caliber IV is a good choice. Also, you'll want to calibrate it using one of these. I put containers of distilled water on every level and left it for a few days. Just let it do its thing. Lightly moistening the shelves and drawers will help, but don't overdo it because they can warp.


As for humidification, the general rule of thumb for Boevda is one 60g pack for every 25 cigars that the container is ABLE to hold (for example, if it's listed as a 100 ct you'd need at least 4 packs). You might want more than just 12 of the 60g packs. 65% is what you want.


Our wineadors seem to be similar in size so for reference, I use 6 of the 320g packs (one on each shelf/drawer) and the humidity is rock solid. It might be excessive but keep in mind that you can't have too many Bovedas since they're self-regulating. The more you have, the longer they'll last and work more efficiently.



Another thing to note is if you have a drain plug at the bottom of your wineador is to plug it. It's just another spot for humidity to escape.

Boveda sells an actual calibration kit - Click "from 3.78 new" and order from premium humidors for cheapest price.

I use these when I get new hygrometers. I know about the salt test and it does typically work. however, I prefer these. I also have 4 digital hygrometers in my main humidor as I font trust just one kind lol.

https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-One-Step-Hygrometer-Calibration-Kit/dp/B000A3UBLA/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487130155&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=bovada+calibrationp

I use this one:
Cigar Oasis Caliber IV Digital Hygromter by Western Humidor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXOKQVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g83WBbBE0M2V3

And I used one of these to calibrate it:
Boveda One-Step Hygrometer Calibration Kit - 75% RH - Standard Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A3UBLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h93WBb5ZQ1VMZ

You put the hygrometer in with the 75 bovida overnight and then if the hygrometer displays anything other than 75 you adjust it and let it sit again to confirm the accuracy.

Mine was off by 1% before I adjusted it.

can 100% confirm these work and you can calibrate them with the humdi-pak calibration pack: http://www.amazon.com/Quality-Importers-HygroSet-Hygrometer-Humidors/dp/B000H6CZQE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373650619&sr=8-2&keywords=hygrometer

They also have a magnet that will stick to jar lids.

EDIT: calibration pack: http://www.amazon.com/Quality-Importers-Humidi-Pak-Hygrometer-Calibration/dp/B000A3UBLA/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1374420261&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=humdipack+calibration

i normally start with like 75%-80% for the first week or so then drop it down to 70% for the rest of the aging. This allows the meat to dry out slowly at first so the casing doesn't harden and trap in moisture which can lead to spoilage. I think it is important to get an adjustable hydrometer and calibrate it so you know your actual humidity and not assumed. However, if your meat didn't spoil but just hardened around the edges, you can vacuum seal the end result for a couple weeks and it will even it out and improve the mouthfeel.
this is a good hydrometer and this is a good calibration kit

$5 3 month certified calibration kit

First I'd get a calibration kit to see if they really are faulty, especially if they're all reading the same things and adjusting when you move them. You can get one on amazon for like 8$. If it really is the hygrometers, then you're probably going to need to invest in a higher quality hygrometer.

I use Blue Magic 400 and #0000 Steel Wool. Does a great job making those tips look new. It's also very cheap! Apply the steel wool with light to moderate pressure. Wipe it down with a microfiber towel that you don't care about being stained and you're all set.

http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I

Aluminum Cleaners are popular in automotive and marine aisle, Blue Magic works nicely

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-Ounce-Polish/dp/B000BO8Z9I

This will help with the oxidization. I like to use it with a wool buffing head on my drill. Saves elbow grease. I can get a nice finish this way.

if you want a more highly polished finish, get some wet dry metal sandpaper above 800. I use it in steps from 800 to 2300 to get a mirror finish on vintage pots and pans.

[presently working on a book on restoring vintage kitchenware]

Recently I cleaned up the exhaust headers on my KZ1300 build before installing them.

One before-and-after

The whole set of 6

It took several hours -- probably about 10 total -- and a lot of elbow grease.

I started with Brasso to remove the rust, rubbing it along with a #1 steel wool pad (#3 if it was really nasty). Then I cleaned that off and repeated as necessary.

Once I had a good foundation I switched to a milder metal polish (here), rubbing that on with a Scotts towel and letting it sit. I then gave it some elbow grease with a #00 pad until it turned black, wiped it off, applied more, and rubbed it with a #0000 pad and then wiped that off.

The results were quite good, but it definitely took a bit of time. I spent a lot of time listening to Hardcore History while working at my bench!

I noticed the exhaust tips could use some polish. I highly recommend this [metal polish](Blue Magic 400 7Oz Mtl Polish Cream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1AZ5AbHD4C68K). Great job overall!!!

This shit is magic: http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414037817&sr=8-2&keywords=metal+polish

Blue Magic Metal Polish
or
motorcycle shops carry chrome polish wadding-its long strips of cloth with the polish in it. It's for spoked wheels, you wrap it around the tube and pull back and forth on it. I used it on a bike I bought with rusty wheels and it worked great.

Decided to not be lazy, here's the link:

Luster Lace

I second commiecat's suggestion of the metal polish and dental floss. I've used it on numerous razors however I would caution that some razors can get loose at the pivot pin, especially older razors that don't have washers on the outside of the scales and just have the pins peened over. If this happens you can use a (4oz preferably or an 8oz if that's all you have) ball peen hammer to very lightly tap the pin and try to peen it some more and tighten it up. Also, I've tried a few metal polishes and I prefer Blue Magic to Maas or Flitz. It really works on getting tarnish off but does have a powerful stench so use in a well ventilated area.

To prevent rust from occurring again, you should try to get some oil into the hinge and even wipe down the blade if you have multiple razors and won't be using one for a while. Mineral oil is great for this and you can find it in the pharmacy for cheap, it's sold as a laxative, lol. Moisten a q-tip and try to work it around the hinge area. If you want something fancy, look for a Tuf-Glide pen. I found them for sale at an antique store while I was hunting for razors but I would assume they are sold at hardware stores and such.

some tricks i know for cleaning up rust are: Fold a small piece of aluminum foil up and flatten it as smooth as possible. (a rolling pin or pen help) then dip it in water and rub over the rust lightly, keeping it wet. Next a little bit of 0000 steel wool. then finish with a good polish like blue magic or wizards metal polish.

I am not sure how the side view mirror is actually mounted on this model but I can give a general idea.

On the inside of the door there is a plastic triangle trim right on the opposite side of where the mirror is and usually it pops off by pulling on it. This will give you access to some screws that hold the whole assembly to the door.

From there you will have to work your magic to figure out how to get it secured nice and tight as I don't know how bad it is.


The bumper is usually held in with screws or some clips or slid into something. Once again I don't know exactly how it is on this model, hopefully some one can tell you how to fix it correctly for this model. But for now you can go and inspect around to maybe figure out how it should be mounted.

The side trim on your TDI should be held on with tabs build into the side trim, inserted into the holes on the door and locked in some way. Either the tabs have broken off so one way would use some double sided tape made for side moldings/body work.

For the headlights I use Blue Magic Polishing Cream that a friend left at my previous house years ago. It works well and only removes surface oxidation. If it's there deep this polish won't be enough and very fine grit sandpaper is what you will need to use. I have to warn that this polish has ammonia in it so work in a well ventilated area. You will need to follow up with a sealant or it will turn yellow again in a month or two.

I used this product from amazon (honestly i just picked one semi randomly when I couldn't find the same brand I was told to use), It worked just fine. As for the dremel bit, I used the white fuzzy round thing you probably get in every dremel kit you've ever seen.

My routine is not really indie. There is a lot of stuff about routines on /r/skincareaddiction btw.

Mine is like this:

Morning

1. Wash face with Nobel Formula Pyrithione Zinc Bar Soap
   
   
2. Wipe off soap with damp microfiber cloth
   
   
3. Apply Paula's Choice Skin balancing toner to face and chest
   
   
4. Wipe on Stridex pad in the red box to face and chest
   
   
5. Moisturize with CeraVe AM sunblock/moisturizer. If it's especially dry, I will apply a small amount of CeraVe moisturizer in the tub
   
   
6. Apply makeup if i feel like it
   
   Evening:
   
   (0. if wearing makeup. Rub jojoba oil all over, and wipe off with damp microfiber cloth)
   
   
7. Wash face with CeraVe foaming cleanser
   
   
8. Apply toner
   
   
9. Apply stridex pad
   
   
10. Spot treat with Paula's choice benzoyl peroxide if necessary
    
    
11. Slather on CeraVe cream from the tub.
    
    Here is a list of products:
    
    http://www.amazon.com/Noble-Formula-Pyrithione-Zinc-Soap/dp/B004R3TBEC
    
    http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-36-Pack-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES
    
    http://www.amazon.com/Stridex-Strength-Medicated-Maximum-Count/dp/B000O1KP1O
    
    http://www.amazon.com/CeraVe-Moisturizing-Facial-Lotion-Ounce/dp/B003WN1ELQ
    
    http://www.paulaschoice.com/shop/collections/Skin-Balancing/_/Skin-Balancing-Oil-Reducing-Cleanser?ftlt=nonbranded&gclid=CL7nkp7kwMECFZBi7AodpFAALA
    
    http://www.paulaschoice.com/shop/Clear-Acne-Treatments/_/Clear-Regular-Strength-Daily-Skin-Clearing-Treatment/
    
    http://www.amazon.com/CeraVe-Moisturizing-Cream-16-Ounce/dp/B001V9SXXU
    
    http://www.amazon.com/Surgeons-Skin-Secret-Pump-Ounce/dp/B005N9BHQY
    
    http://store.acne.org/jojoba-oil

I use microfiber towels with great success! Example: http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-737-Microfiber-Cleaning-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

These should do just fine: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XECJES/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

But any will work from target, Wal-Mart, Walgreens...

I use, and love, Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths.

You're very welcome; I'm just a mere nomo who's happy to help.

All of that said in my original post, if I were you I'd try something a little less permanent on the first try. I'd also want something that would have no chance of flaking off and making a big mess of my mod (lacquer will eventually fail). After polishing and a solvent cleanse, I'd probably apply a wax. It's not a forever solution, but it should reduce how often you'll have to polish and it's pretty easy to remove/polish/reapply.

Renaissance Wax is a museum quality product renowned protecting antiques/collector items and it works great on all metals and more. Amazon carries 65ml and 200ml containers at a fairly reasonable price.

That's probably where I'd go first, but my experience with applying coatings is very limited...I spec them all the time, but never have to actually use them. :) I hope your experiment goes well!

"Renaissance Wax" - https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

used by museums worldwide.

otherwise, plain simple 3-in-1 oil and a soft cloth.

I just wipe it down with some Ballistol or oil after cleaning. Lots of people recommend this stuff for polishing blued guns: https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-Polish-200-ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

This stuff is pretty good: http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=sr_1_2/185-1115514-7925907?ie=UTF8&qid=1397488317&sr=8-2&keywords=renaissance+wax+polish

A museum would use Renaissance wax., I've spoken to maritime archaeological conservators, they actually do use it. My uncle, a coin dealer who specializes in ancient coins (Roman and earlier) says that Johnson paste floor wax is the same thing as renaisance wax, and much cheaper. It smells quite a bit like car wax, for whatever that is worth.

The grips are Ivory and can be worth a huge amount. You should get the two 1862's (not quite sure that's what they are, would need better view of them) lettered from colt. They could be worth potentially 10,000 or more each, especially if that's factory engraving.

DO NOT CLEAN THEM. You do not know what you're doing, you will fuck them up. Your best bet would be to find a professional restorer or gunsmith (not just some jackass that can change a shotgun barrel either) and have them clean them properly. More antique guns are ruined by "I'll just scrub this rust off" and "how could this possibly harm the finish, it's made for guns" than by anything else. If you must do anything, a careful brushing with a firm bristled toothbrush (and nothing else. No copper brushes, steel brushes, steel wool, brass brushes or cleaners on the toothbrush) to remove dust and dirt followed by the use of a product like renaissance wax to impede further degradation is what I would recommend. The ivory needs to be treated especially carefully, as it gets older, it gets very fragile.

I would suggest contacting someone like Turnbull or another well recommended restorer as soon as possible.


http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

http://www.turnbullmfg.com/

Why do you need lye?

If you want it for pretzels, you have to use "food grade" lye, you don't use laboratory sodium hydroxide.

http://www.amazon.com/Grade-Sodium-Hydroxide-Micro-Beads/dp/B001EDBEZM

>introduce me to no more toxic metals than eating fresh fish or drinking tap water

The toxic metals aren't the problem. It the random other crap that could be in there. I don't know what's in there, but is it really worth the risk?

I mean, you're probably right and all [Edit: After reading remidiality's reply, I'm not as sure about this], but even if there's a 1% chance that you're wrong, is that worth it? 1% is still a pretty high chance. Then you might also run into issues like the Zicam thing where they put Zinc in their 'homeopathic' nasal spray, which caused people to lose their sense of smell.

I'm assuming you live in the US, in which case I'll point you to this which was the first thing I found. That's a crap ton of lye for <$20. Seriously, how much could you possibly save by going for the lab stuff? Is $20 really that much that you would risk serious illness or worse?

Edit: By the way, if my tone seems a bit harsh or critical, I'm sorry, but I don't want you to accidentally kill yourself.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EDBEZM/
I've had it for 5 yrs, and I'm maybe halfway through it.

Stainless Steel Wool. You will not believe how well it cleans off cooked on wort from your cook top.

Anything super perishable and that can be frozen, can be stored with dry ice. If you use a smaller cooler, and rarely open it, it will keep a good long time, frozen solid. We had frozen bacon in a cooler last year that stayed frozen until at least thursday with dry ice. No real special handling other than not opening that cooler.

Most things can just be stored in a cooler with ice. Maintain the ice, keep it stocked up, and you'll be fine. Do not let food items get wet, keep them in zip lock bags. Keeping your ice in large zip locks is a good idea too, as it can be used as potable water when it melts. Ice melt in a cooler is nasty stuff.

I don't see why you couldn't wash and dry quinoa. I have no experience there, but a good washing and some time in an oven should get it bone dry. Bag it and keep it cool.

Veggies will be fine. Try to wash them before hand, put into ziplocks and keep cool. Onions and tomatoes wouldn't need to be kept on ice, just kept out of the sun and kept cool. Put on ice if really needed. Cucumbers should be fine for the week in a cooler. Lettuce will be fine as well. Store unlike veggies in separate containers, as they ripen at different rates.

Really you should be fine, if you have good cooler management. Keep them off the ground and in the shade. You can wrap them in reflectix as well, this will add a bit of insulation to them. Make sure they close well, don't leave open or cracked. Keep frequently opened coolers (drinks, stuff like that) separate from storage coolers.

10 gallon bags

20 gallon bags

22 gallon bags

I'd get a couple of these and store the clothes you don't currently fit into out of the way for now. I think you're right that having them take up space in your closet and seeing them knowing you can't wear them right now is a downer and really affects the whole 'joy' concept of konmari. However, I think you have a very valid reason to keep those items.

We use this storage system we got in the children's section at Ikea. (I tried to find a picture of it but their website sucks). It is a combo of shelves and bins so it was great to grow with as we have reconfigured it multiple times.

For larger, awkwardly shaped toys - I really love these large and [x-large ziplock bags] (http://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Double-Zipper-X-Large-4-Count/dp/B003U6A3EY). For example, I will put an entire race track set in one or my kids got this indoor golf set that had a massive number of pieces that were all really long. They take up less room than bins and I can just throw them on top of each other. I just them put them in their closets and they can grab them when they want.

It sounds like you've made the right decision, I thought I'd make a couple of suggestions.

While a bit pricey, I highly recommend getting a bug oven so worth it. Generally marketed for bedbugs, they kill all bugs and the peace of mind is tremendous. Buy a bunch of jumbo Ziploc bags you place your clothes, books, bedding, whatever, in the bags then into the bug oven. After when removing your stuff you'll see the dead critters and even dead critter eggs. Pesticide free and it works. I've used it when I saw a spider on my full length silk curtains, I wouldn't have been able to sleep otherwise, after I pulled the curtains out there were 3 dead spiders and countless fried spider eggs, I was so freaked out but also thrilled at the same time! You have no idea!

You may also want to look into these strips if you're ok with going a pesticide route. These have no odor and no obvious chemical outgassing but make no mistake, they are a pesticide. These are use in food silos so they're not scary chemicals but if you chose to use them I would do it when you're out of town, hang them around the apartment and in your car and if possible then open windows and sleep elsewhere for a night after you take them away. You may want to see your Dr for a rx of permethrin cream just to have at home so you're not left scratching in the middle of the night, these critters are resilient and you may end up reinfected somehow.

All of these things may seem extreme and maybe they are. I'd rather spend the money and know I have a game plan that provides peace of mind. I have 4 college age sons, they bring friends home, go camping, sleep at random girls houses and dorm rooms, the bug over is big enough that I can toss their suitcase or overnight bag, backpack and pillows in and we all sleep better knowing I won't have to fire bomb. Cause you know. Spiders.

Ziploc makes large zip top bags for clothes/blanket storage - that’s what I used for my sons blanket.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003U6A3EY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like this size.

http://www.amazon.com/F-e-s-s-Long-Churchwarden-Tobacco-Pipe/dp/B004ECU1W2

Heres a [Link] (http://www.amazon.com/F-e-s-s-Long-Churchwarden-Tobacco-Pipe/dp/B004ECU1W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381723049&sr=8-1&keywords=gandalf+pipe) Man

Check here:

http://www.tolkienshop.com/contents/en-uk/d146.html

The Gandalf pipe is not cheap.
But something like this is pretty affordable:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ECU1W2/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1/188-9052895-5900918?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=15TJB0Z9HZK59EB283DH&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_i=B00638JR48

Here's one that I saw someone on here post about after they got it from Secret Santa

All stuff I got from Amazon. The beard and wig came together (also came with stick on eyebrows, but they weren't very comfortable or visible so I didn't wear them), and the hat, robe, and satchel were also a package deal. Then I got some kind of bling necklace, the dollar signs multi-ring, and shutter shades which were advertised as "glow in the dark" though the glow only last about 5 minutes even though I put them under a bright light all day. I also got a long sherlock pipe that was very nice, totally legitimate (IE could actually be smoked from, though I didn't actually use it) and came in a nice storage box with felt or something inside, and was only $20.

All told, I probably spent about a hundred bucks on the costume. Just summed the current prices, $115.06 including shipping for the things that weren't available with Prime. I think that's a few dollars more than what I paid, some of the prices have fluctuated.

The beard and wig were pretty good quality IMO. The beard didn't stick on, but instead had a couple of straps that go around the back of your head and are covered by the wig. The wig was pretty thick and full of hair and looked very nice. Drinking was kind of bitch with the beard on; I drank out of bottles with moderate success if I was careful, but had to use a straw with anything from an open glass. After a while I started pulling the beard down so the mustache was below my mouth, to make it easier to drink.

The robe was nothing fancy, but looked good and wasn't too expensive. The color definitely isn't genuine but the beard/hair made the Gandalf part obvious to anyone who knew who Gandalf was. The hat and satchel were both made of very cheap thin foam, and the strap on the bag isn't adjustable I found it hung too low to be convenient. The hat also easily slid off of the wig, I had to use a few safety pins to attach it to the wig. LPT: Don't stab yourself in the skull with safety pins.

Both pieces of costume jewelry -- the necklace and the rings -- were cheap plastic. I probably could have gotten better quality stuff for a similar price, or gotten the same crap for cheaper if I tried, but it did the job. The necklace didn't have a clasp, you just slide it over your head, and it was a pretty tight squeeze. Definitely impossible to put it on or take it off without removing the wig, and someone with a particularly large head might not be able to put it on at all.

Some people "got" the costume better than others as was expected. Most people at least knew Gandalf, but I got some confused looks when I tried to explain the Cray part. A group of people took to calling me Wiz, I think as a combination of wizard and Wiz Khalifa. I really enjoyed the costume and I definitely want to use it again, especially since it was the most expensive one I've ever had. It was a lot of fun to put together and the general reaction was pretty positive, so I'd recommend it to someone who wants to put only small/moderate amount of effort for a pretty cool costume.

Not the exact pipe, but http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004ECU1W2/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?redirect=true&ref_=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1

No. Those are really small. Mostly for keeping cigars fresh while shipping.

You want these.

http://smile.amazon.com/Boveda-4-Pack-Humidifier-69%25/dp/B004LHSOBK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1407968375&sr=8-4&keywords=Boveda

Hygrometer recommendation: https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Importers-HygroSet-Hygrometer-Humidors/dp/B000H6CZQE

69% Boveda packs: https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-2-Way-Humidity-Control-Large/dp/B004LHSOBK/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1486016508&sr=1-1&keywords=69+boveda

You said you already have the humidors. The rest will take care of itself with a little monitoring. You can get as fancy, or as frugal as you want, these are really the only necessities though.

What sticks do you like by the way?

Get one of these weathertight bins and a box of these bovedas and you'll be good to go

Cool, I'm going to go with these and this. Thanks guys!

Dude or Man wipes.

Noted

Dude wipes are great.

DUDE Wipes Flushable Wet Wipes 30 Wipes, Individually Wrapped for Travel, Unscented Wet Wipes with Vitamin-E & Aloe, Septic and Sewer Safe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LXBZF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5XL1Cb6Y28YRP

Individually wrapped DUDE WIPES ON-THE-GO

“Dude, The Future Is Now”

https://www.amazon.com/Flushable-Individually-Wrapped-Unscented-Vitamin/dp/B008LXBZF2

Wax is THE most important thing for your car. Waiting a year or two isn't a good idea because the sun will damage your paint by then. If you want you keep your car mint, get some wax on there and then focus on the interior.

My favorite over the counter wax is Meguiar's NXT 2.0.

A couple things with your list,

• I suggest getting these microfiber towels. 6 times the towels for 2 times the price.
  
  
• I suggest getting this brush. Its the same price as a hair brush but its way better at the task.
  
  
• Despite its name, the Meguiar's detailer is not a cleaner. Its great for getting dust of the dash but it can't clean anything. I tried it on 3 cars and it did not remove dirt. My favorite cleaner by far is Chemical Guys NonSENSE cleaner. You can dilute it 10:1 so that $12 bottle creates a gallon of product.
  
  Everything else trollster4 went over.

http://www.amazon.ca/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-Pack/dp/B00ANZHG7C
I use these, I would use one of those designated water "vinyl cleaners" but they're a little expensive. Make sure you go in a circular motion though so you don't drag dust into the grooves.

You can use the ones for cleaning!

I use these. I'm sure you can find some cheaper than these, but they work well and the colors help me differentiate them from other cloths.

For one, the hand-held Metro Vacuum ED500 is probably one of the best investments you can make. It has worked flawlessly for me for over 2 years.

As for cleaning LCDs my personal favorite has been this

http://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Laptop-Microfiber/dp/B0047E8DN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420159104&sr=8-1&keywords=bryson+lcd

Along with a nice set of microfiber cloths

http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-24-Pack/dp/B00ANZHG7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420159264&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+cloth+zwipes

Quick tip, if you're ever unsure whether your cloth will damage a screen or leave scratches, take it and find an old cd and try to rub the bottom of the CD as hard as you can. If you see more scratches then before, I would avoid using it, but if it comes out scratch-free then its safe to use.

https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-65-Percentage-Individually-Wrapped-Humidity/dp/B00FWPQ8WC

This. It keeps your container at a constant 65% humidity, i use them for cigars which are MUCH more delicate to humidity. All you need and itll last years because once the pack dries up, you can put it in a container with water and it fills right back up overnight.

Buy a large plastic airtight container, like this one that is highly recommended

https://www.amazon.com/Sistema-1870-Collection-Rectangle-Container/dp/B00284AG5U

Grab a few boveda, I use 65% personally

https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-65-Percentage-Individually-Wrapped-Humidity/dp/B00FWPQ8WC/ref=sr_1_cc_5_a_it?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1549155129&sr=1-5-catcorr&keywords=boveda+65%25+humidity+pack

2-3 will be enough. That will keep them good for a long long time. I would unwrap the boxes and prop the lids open when putting them in the Tupperware, just for airflow.

Also, congrats on the wedding!

Around $25 bucks..

Rubbermaid Brilliance Food Storage Container, Large, 9.6 Cup, Clear 1991158 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCNEJVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ctZMDbFRAAB8J

Goabroa Mini Hygrometer Thermometer Digital Indoor Humidity Gauge Monitor with Temperature Meter Sensor Fahrenheit (℉) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QC7JRDP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8uZMDb2FCC6GG

Boveda 65-Percentage RH Individually Over Wrapped 2-Way Humidity Control Pack, 60gm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FWPQ8WC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_svZMDbWJD3ED2

If I had $70 I would do a build your own sampler. Invite some friends over and burn through them.

https://www.cigarsinternational.com/p/build-your-own-mega-sampler/2010403/

My choices would be

1. HC Series Maduro2 Robusto
   
   
2. Diesel Unlimited d.X
   
   
3. Romeo y Julieta Vintage #7.5
   
   
4. Rocky Patel ITC Limited Reserve Bear
   
   
   
   You're also going to want to store them somewhere. For an additional $16 on Amazon you can get this and this
   
   You can store them under your bed. That boveda should last you a couple months. After that you can either buy a new one, or spend $1 on a gallon of distilled water. Soak your boveda for a few days until the hard chunks inside are gone and you're ready to go again.

So I'm not exactly sure what you mean by water pillow. However, if it looks like this then it's probably a Boveda pack, which are very popular humidification devices, and for good reason. They take the guess work out; you just throw one in with your sticks. I'm guessing that's what they included with your shipment, and it's what myself (along with most everyone else here) would recommend you use to humidify your cigars in a humidor.

So to answer your question, yes, you're fine to leave them in a bag with a boveda, if that's what you have. But if you are buying/have bought 50 sticks, I'd recommend the upgrade to a tupperdor.

Also the towel acts to break up wet clothes and allow air to circulate around the clothes. A better tip is to use dryer wool balls like these from Amazon for every load. You can save almost half the drying time and that means saving money too!


Wool Dryer Balls by Smart Sheep 6-Pack, XL Premium Reusable Natural Fabric Softener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GA9P5P0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uZBuDbWB131A4

Amazon! These are mine: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GA9P5P0/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Q9bwtb0C28BTZ

+1 for wool balls

-100 for fabric "softener"

Wool Dryer Balls by Smart Sheep 6-Pack, XL Premium Reusable Natural Fabric Softener

Thanks OP! Something I haven't seen mentioned here yet: wool dryer balls, for those who can't or don't wish to use dryer sheets. These were the first result from Amazon.com but I would imagine they are easily found at Target, Walmart, etc.

My mom switched from dryer sheets to wool balls a couple years ago and sings their praises to anyone who will listen. For her it was less of a clothing care/skin sensitivity issue than a cost-effectiveness/chemical-elimination one. A household of 2-3 could easily get by with a set of 4, using 2 per load and rotating them. Anyone who misses fragranced dryer sheets could scent the wool balls with a few drops of essential oil (let it absorb for a day or two so your clothes don't end up with oil stains cooked into them).

Just a thought! What a great thread :)

So I accidentally ran my body microfiber towels through the dryer while the dryer still had wool dryer balls in it (these things). They don't actually contain fabric softener, they're just designed to keep laundry separate and help it dry faster. They just contain a lavender scent.

Just wondering if the towels should still be safe to use or if I should just run them through another wash cycle...

Bought the skunkcase on Amazon. Have had it for 2 weeks now. Works amazingly well.

Pax 2 Smell-proof Hard Plastic Case; Pocket-carry with Flip-top for Easy Access (Black) By Skunkcase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bFHryb4F86Q96

I just got a streamlight micro-stream. At 250 lumens it’s not super powerful, but it’s usb rechargeable or takes a triple A battery so power isn’t an issue. About as thick as a sharpie marker and maybe has as long, love it so far. I know it comes in a burnt bronzey color

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_2/131-7718342-7786746?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07DLZXZV1&pd_rd_r=50bc7d98-d190-4025-95a8-7b605e00cf47&pd_rd_w=f3ehg&pd_rd_wg=837j7&pf_rd_p=6e6afc8a-fbbd-4649-97cf-4e08f5113612&pf_rd_r=DPR4JMM1VDGGMT3EWMH3&psc=1&refRID=DPR4JMM1VDGGMT3EWMH3

Tried snagging some pax caps?
http://delta3dstudios.com/pax-caps-pair/
I've heard good things about them, also quite cheap. Skunk Case also has some more expensive smell proof water proof etc. options.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tYJlyb1G68V65
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KQOAJKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4YJlybRP6CN4V

Cheaper models on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Tesla-Coil-Lighters%E2%84%A2-Rechargeable-Windproof/dp/B016P8A1K4/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1473349710&sr=8-3&keywords=arc+lighter

Check out Tesla coil lighters!

You can get this one on amazon for like $20. Not an X but still the same thing. I've got one.

Yeah I bought these a year ago, haven't noticed a difference.

Also, as far as the care of your clothing goes, I'd really recommend getting away from store bought detergents and fabric softeners. They're full of chemicals and are harsh on your clothing and hard on your washing machine. I've fallen in love with using soap nuts, distilled white vinegar, and wool dryer balls to do all my laundry.

Soap nuts: http://www.amazon.com/NaturOli-Berries-Seedless-Cleaner-Processed/dp/B001DU4XPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420238438&sr=8-1&keywords=soap+nuts

Wool dryer balls: http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Sheep-Eco-friendly-All-Natural-Softener--Great/dp/B00GA9P5P0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420238492&sr=8-1&keywords=wool+dryer+balls

And a great stain remover: http://www.amazon.com/Bi-O-Kleen-Bac-Out-Eliminator-Foaming-Action/dp/B005P0UYDS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420238539&sr=8-2&keywords=biokleen

Then, I just keep a big container of white vinegar around to use as a fabric softener. If you like you can also add whatever essential oils you like to either the vinegar or onto the dryer balls (or both). Orange oil is my favorite, and I like this bigger bottle: http://www.amazon.com/NOW-Foods-Orange-Sweet-ounce/dp/B0019LPL8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420238679&sr=8-1&keywords=NOW+orange+oil

I've found this saves money, water, energy, the whole shebang. I also have really sensitive skin, so switching to this way of doing laundry has really benefitted me all around.

CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s-GvCbG820P3M

My pup is a newer rescue and a bit nervous, so he isn't really the type of explore on his own or get into mischief. For the most part he only picks things up when you hand them to him, even things like chews or toys. He did immediately perk up the first time he saw me do laundry, though, because I have wool dryer balls (like these). He reached right into my hamper, picked one up, and trotted around with it in his mouth, butt waggling like crazy. I could've choked on the sheer cuteness.

I had the beige cloth in my 2015 and had to clean them a lot. Water left spots on those seats! My favorite product I found is this cleaner from The Car Guys.

I bought it mostly for the dash, but came to find it worked great on the seats as well. Some set in stains came out super easy. Has a really light smell too, so doesn’t leave your car smelling of cleaner.

I've never used the RainX foam, so I have no way to compare.

For the interiors, I use Car Guys Super Cleaner. Works great. I have been avoiding touching the sound bar fabric out of fear of damaging it, so I'm afraid I haven't got any advice on how to clean it.

Car Guys All Purpose Cleaner and the micro fiber towel it comes with!
I wear black jeans and sometimes I see greyish marks on the seats and this cleaner makes everything go away. Make sure you spray the microfiber cloth then wipe down. You probably could spray the seats directly but I always just use the cloth.

I personally recommend investing in one of these for when you aren't using your PAX:

https://www.amazon.com/Smell-proof-Plastic-Pocket-carry-Flip-top-Skunkcase/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481565750&sr=8-2&keywords=skunkcase

They are pretty discrete and will block out the smell from the vaporizer itself.

Buy the cheapest, disposable lighter set you can find. My tip.

I feel like a lighter is such an easily lost (or stolen) thing that buying something expensive isn't worth the money.

If you still want something efficient, then check these out:

Tesla Coil Lighters. Also great conversation starters.

If you want something with a flame, I'd recommend torch lighters - windproof, quick and even stylish in some cases.

Wrap the fuse with nichrome wire and connect it across a lithium battery. Also, arc lighters already exist, and they work pretty well.

https://www.amazon.com/Tesla-Coil-LightersTM-Rechargeable-Windproof/dp/B016P8A1K4/

Thanks. As far as packs go, I'm also pretty set on only buying Ospreys in the future because of their lifetime policy. I've got a Farpoint, a Talon and a Rev, but I'm weighing my options until my intro main pack that isn't an Osprey falls apart.

Separating is good, too. The Tesla lighters are just as heavy (if not heavier) as a Zippo or the ferro rods bc of the internal battery, but they're also SUPER fun. I've been using this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P8A1K4 It's like a mini taser. I fully charged mine when I got it and tried to count how many times I could turn it on for 3 second durations, and I stopped counting at 200 only because I got bored with just pressing the button.

Sorry, somehow I did not see that there were some comments on here. Yeah, I got the Titan case that a lot of people raved about, and did not care for it very much. But this skunk case on Amazon is totally perfect. Completely airtight an odor proof. Weird right now it shows as being out of stock on Amazon.

Pax 2 Smell-proof Hard Plastic Case; Pocket-carry with Flip-top for Easy Access (Black) By Skunkcase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OqKMxbT6KKKK9

It's listed as a windproof lighter, nowhere does it say it will only work with cigarettes and nothing else. I figured it could at least light a cigar but nope not easily.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P8A1K4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-Ui1CbYM6TKE8

$20 Just bought one - High ratings - http://www.amazon.com/Tesla-LightersTM-Rechargeable-Windproof-Lighter/dp/B016P8A1K4

Cheaper option with one mode.

USB option with high/low modes.

Awesome. Thank you.

Streamlight 66608 250 Lumen Microstream USB Rechargeable Flashlight with 5" USB Cord Clamshell Packaging, Coyote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_bNl1DbXJZJT4B

I've been loving this:

CarGuys Super Cleaner - Effective All Purpose Cleaner - Best for Leather Vinyl Carpet Upholstery Plastic Rubber and Much More! - 18 oz Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/

Streamlight micro stream

Amazon - Streamlight USB in Tan

Thank you for doing this giveaway again!

Streamlight 66608 250 Lumen Microstream USB Rechargeable

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_W7b1DbA3YPBED

I'm just starting to rebuild my light collection since it was decimated by goblins.

thanks!

https://smile.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1/?tag=parametrek-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cg9RDbV9PFN3T

The added recharchability would be a nice feature to have so I dont gotta replace batteries.

I don't have dogs but I've been super pleased with this and have seen several people speak highly of it.

This works fine for me

Streamlight Microsstream

Thank you for doing this!

Thanks man. Always wanted to try a microstream.

Streamlight 66608 250 Lumen Microstream USB Rechargeable Flashlight with 5" USB Cord Clamshell Packaging, Coyote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7NfpDbZ71ETFZ

I’d like to try a Streamlight micro stream!


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_XKx1DbYX3P49X

Thank you!

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=3-1-c3RyZWFtbGlnaHQ%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=olight&pd_rd_i=B07DLZXZV1&pd_rd_r=2b11bc02-81a0-42ac-9bca-adec1c2ee422&pd_rd_w=1Sna4&pd_rd_wg=ZhMPG&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=KVVPZHDRVWVZFZCTFPBQ&qid=1568729429&s=gateway

I put my Pax 2 into this case and then toss it into a carbon bag. The case only leaks a small bit of smell when you're within ~1 foot of it, and nothing leaks out of the bag.

You can try this in the dryer:

https://www.amazon.com/Nellies-All-Natural-Quick-Change-Dryerballs/dp/B00O6B2Y12

and buy scent sticks for them:

https://www.amazon.com/Nellies-All-Natural-Fragrance-Sticks-Lavender/dp/B002NWBRW8

Or you can buy wool dryer balls:

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Sheep-Premium-Reusable-Softener/dp/B00GA9P5P0

and put a few drops of essentials oils on them and throw them in the dryer.

No, those are similar but if you want something to make your clothes smell nice, these:

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Sheep-Premium-Reusable-Softener/dp/B00GA9P5P0

You can put a few drops of essential oil in them and they'll smell up your clothes all nice and when the scent wears off you just reload them.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Smart-Sheep-Premium-Reusable-Softener/dp/B00GA9P5P0

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Did you mean in a local store? Cause they are here: https://www.amazon.ca/Tesla-Coil-LightersTM-Rechargeable-Windproof/dp/B016P8A1K4

https://www.amazon.com/Tesla-Coil-LightersTM-Rechargeable-Windproof/dp/B016P8A1K4

how about this:

https://www.amazon.com/Tesla-Coil-LightersTM-Rechargeable-Windproof/dp/B016P8A1K4/ref=sr_1_1_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482389473&sr=1-1&th=1

I've traveled from central Europe to UK and back a couple times with my pax in my checked bag. It's comletely fine if it's cleaned properly.
As to the case; I cannot tell you because I haven't got one, but I carry mine in a bag that comes with the Koss Porta Pro headphones. It's probably not completely smell proof but it does a decent job and I haven't noticed any significant smell leaks.
But if you want to be 100% sure about the smell, you might wanna check this one out.

Pax 2 Smell-proof Hard Plastic Case; Pocket-carry with Flip-top for Easy Access (Black) By Skunkcase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c9EZxbHQ2E1DR

I think they're currently out of stock unfortunately

So this may not be the perfect solution, but this worked-

​

• disconnect the horn's fuse in the fuse panel
  
• scrub over and over using blue shop towels using Car Guys Premium Super Cleaner*
  
• *I had tried that before as it's now my go to cleaner instead of Armor All - but prior attempt, I was using a chamois but it just flaked some of the chamois (again, this wheel was super sticky! Like fly trap sticky!)
  
• I used about 7 shop towels total
  
• Covered the towels in the cleaner, and just scrubbed until there was no more black residue coming off- I imagine that's years of Armor All that came off
  
• Because the horn wasn't working, didn't worry about being delicate
  
  ​
  
  Results- not perfect, but much much much better
  
  End result- PHOTO

I dont know if im the only one that feels no issue. I use a combination of two things.

1. a window or smoke buddy
   
2. this: Pax 2 Smell-proof Hard Plastic Case; Pocket-carry with Flip-top for Easy Access (Black) By Skunkcase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5.EuxbGS814W8
   
   When the session is over I just put it back in its home. Sacrifice a little portability for peace of mind IMO

what about thus one

Pax 2 / Pax 3 Smell-proof Hard Plastic Case; Pocket-carry with Flip-top for Easy Access (Black) By Skunkcase https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFDN80Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MyhvybV0314B3

I've heard good reviews about this product but haven't tried it myself http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BFDN80Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464713848&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=pax+case&dpPl=1&dpID=31bKXkbemgL&ref=plSrch

On the other hand I use a pelican case everyday and I've been happy with it. Definitely smell proof, water tight and durable. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004WKK8BU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1464713978&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pelican+1010&dpPl=1&dpID=51py2nS0FqL&ref=plSrch

Lastly I carry a medtainer. Also, water/smell proof and durable. Holds my flowers and does a great job getting that nice fine grind I like for my pax. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRHHYJI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464714149&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=medtainer&dpPl=1&dpID=41cjz-wDGJL&ref=plSrch

That's been my set up for almost a year in an illegal state. It's worked very well for me.

Sometimes strong odors from the trunk can make their way into the cabin. I'd recommend using smell-proof cases and containers. Also, never consent to a search no matter what.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFDN80Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0048Z5KUI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the mobile version of your link

Car Guys Super Cleaner | https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_VKOpDbMG5Q04C

I got some car guys super cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/CarGuys-Super-Cleaner-Effective-Upholstery/dp/B071XB18BF

Works well. Recently found some blue jean stain transferred on the driver seat and it wiped off easily with some dog wipes I had in the car (probably the same as baby wipes, but 10x more expensive, haha).

Enjoy the X! I almost went there, and I think eventually I’ll have one too :)

Here’s the product I used, this thing has replaced almost all my other cleaning products
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jbMhDbYA7VC7N

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XB18BF/ref=twister_B074NBKCH1?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

On all surfaces and a nonammonia glass cleaner on the interior class.

It's a lint roller.

Lint roller (on my crafting WL... for tidying up my rag quilts).

Yay for laziness! Everyone needs a little of that now and then! ;)

http://www.amazon.com/3M-836R-OS-Lint-Roller/dp/B00006IA8Q

Why, the internet of course! Wein makes them and they work - I've got one working in my Nikon F right now and it's been there for years.
Here, or here, or here.

You'll need a 1.35v mercury-equivalent replacement battery, and not just something you pick up at Wal-Mart. Weincell makes a good one.

Bought this off Amazon, works pretty well.

I can’t speak to the F3, but I love my Canonet. I have an earlier model QL17 with a 45mm lens. I have only used the wein cell battery and my light meter has been very accurate. I usually point towards the ground to meter for shadows and then manually set my exposure.

Previously, I have only shot on canon DSLRs. I have really enjoyed working with a rangefinder. I did a first impressions post in the rangefinders subreddit and all of my posts on analog have been from my Canonet.

Just my 2 cents!

So would this battery suffice as a replacement or no?
WeinCell MRB625 Replacement Battery for PX625/PX13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q3BLBbJ8ED3SD

Right off the bat it sounds like your meter may be broken. However, there are a few things to check first before declaring that.

1. Make sure you use the correct battery. As /u/iamthejeff_ pointed out, the OM-1 natively takes a battery that is no longer available. A weincell or a hearing aid battery will give you the proper voltage. You don't 100% need an o-ring to center the hearing aid battery. The cap should do a good job keeping it on the contact tab.
   
   Once you've gotten a battery of the correct voltage you can test the meter again. One thing of note is that the meter movement itself is mechanical. It will respond to the aperture ring and shutter speed movement even if the meter itself is dead. The meter only reads from around 2EV to 17EV so make sure you test this in sunlight to see if the meter is actually functional. If you're in a lit room it's possible that the meter simply isn't sensitive enough for the light in the room.
   
   
2. If you have a regular OM-1 not the n or MD variant (though I think this MAY apply to some MD variants, I can't recall) then you can also take off the bottom plate by removing the 4 bottom screws and check the battery contact screw. On early models this was made of nylon and is easily broken. This can cause improper electrical contact and make the meter appear inoperable. If you have an n model they all used metal screws so this wouldn't be the case.
   
   If all of this checks out and the meter is inoperable then I'd say it's pretty safe to call your meter dead. If you have an interest in reviving the meter you can send it to John Hermanson to do a CLA on the camera. I'm pretty sure he can replace the meter cells.
   
   His website is here.
   
   However, given your circumstances that's probably too slow and too expensive.
   
   
   You can also simply use the camera without a meter. It's a mechanical camera and doesn't need the meter to take photos. You will simply need to employ an external light meter or use Sunny16 or similar exposure rules.
   
   If a light meter in-camera is a must then buying another OM-1 is quite cheap on eBay.
   

https://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7

Make sure it's not in A mode when testing. If you don't have a battery it and it's in A it won't fire the shutter. It should when in manual mode though. If it works $50 is a nice price. It's a great camera. I like mine a lot. I stopped putting a battery in mine though, it's not really worth it and the meter probably need calibration. You can get a Wein cell from Amazon though.

Any suggestions for replacing an old mercury px625 battery for a Canonet QL17? So far the best I can find is a Weincell but they're expensive and I hear don't last very long.

It does! But you're gonna need these mercury voltage equivalent replacement batteries to get the right voltage and reading. Alkaline batteries are 1.5V if I'm not mistaken which will throw off the reading. Everything will work fine otherwise!

this?
WeinCell MRB625 Replacement Battery for PX625/PX13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_odbLBbCN9WDAZ

Yeah, comparing the meter against another camera is a good idea. Is it really so expensive to mail it to the States? I've done crazier things. Sent my Pentax from Texas to Tennessee to have it overhauled, although I guess that's not as far.

As an alternate solution, these Wein batteries are specially designed to output the same 1.35V as the original discontinued mercury cells. They're expensive, though: http://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=pd_cp_p_1

You just won't be able to use the light metering. I have the same camera, and this is the battery I use. Works like a charm

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009VQJ7/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

In my opinion, I wouldn't bother with anything other than this: https://www.amazon.com/Cigar-Oasis-Caliber-Digital-Hygromter/dp/B00JXOKQVW/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1539454042&sr=8-10&keywords=hygrometer

The price is fair, it's easy to calibrate, and the battery life is solid. Make sure to calibrate as well: https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-One-Step-Hygrometer-Calibration-Kit/dp/B000A3UBLA/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1539454125&sr=8-3&keywords=boveda+calibration+kit

Hygroset II

Small, very easy to calibrate (turn the dial). I recommend using the Boveda Hygrometer Calibration Kit to calibrate it as well.

I use this hygrometer. It's pretty cheap and was way off when it arrived. It's also pretty finicky to adjust the first time but it can be done. Try using this calibration kit.

Yes absolutely since the AC is removing moisture from the air. I had the exact same problem as you, in fact it even led to me getting sick several times before I thought about it, and identified the source. I put a humidifier directly in front of the fan/blower part of the AC unit in order to distribute the moist air throughout the room.


Nowadays with whole house AC I keep a hygrometer and a humidifier on a timer. (I don't trust hygrometers built in to humidifiers. Actually I would buy an adjustable hygrometer along with a way to calibrate it.) With a way to measure the humidity I try to keep it at the minimum that doesn't cause problems for my throat. Experiment and find that minimum since too much humidity is bad for mold and could lead to a whole new set of issues.

Metal polish also works.

They are called finger pump oil cans. Thanks for making me look that up!

First thing I did was scrub it down with some 000 steel wool and Goo Gone. I've never honestly seen anyone else use this combination but it works amazing on aluminum, steel, plated metals and tons of other stuff.

After I got all of the grim off I wiped it down with some all purpose cleaner.

Next I put a buffing ball on my drill and used some Mothers Aluminum polish. After a few pases with the mothers I cleaned off the ball, and finished out with some Blue Magic 400. The Mothers polish has a small amount of abrasive which helped smooth out what the steel wool did and the Blue Magic 400 has no abrasive and leaves a longer lasting protective coat then the Mothers. I have found you can make just about anything look new with this quick and easy method. Check out how nice it cleaned up the shocks on my bike Album.

This is magic deoxidating polish. Buy it. Its cheap. And will last forever

i've had good results with a non-abrasive metal polish like this one

Super simple. Just get a microfiber cloth or old rag or whatever, some non-abrasive metal polish like Flitz or, I like to use this stuff
Apply polish to cloth and just scrub until it is all shiny and sexy. Alternatively, you can use a dremel with a buffing attachment, but I really enjoy polishing by hand.

That's all there is to it, other than taking a toothpick and getting into the grip serrations to scrape out the years of accumilated Isreali soldier finger crud.

Try those with MAAS or a similar product:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-400-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I

:) Blue Magic Metal Polish, felt polishing wheels and a dremel.

I just got some of this stuff off of Amazon. How am I supposed to go about using it?

Do I try to get my pipes as clean as possible with soap/water, and then use this as a finish? What parts of my bike can I use this on? What parts am I not allowed to use it on?

Do you have any hints or tips about how to use it in the best possible way?

Thanks!

To wash my face, I either just use my fingers or else I will use a konjac sponge or my Clarisonic. Then I use these cloths to wipe my face. Our sinks in this rental suck, so I can't just fill them and do a proper rinse, so I do best I can and then wet one of these to get any remaining soap. Then I use one of these yoga towels to dry. I just hold it to my face and press it slightly. I don't try to fully dry my skin off because I just don't need to unless I am going to be using acids after. I use one of the little cloths each time I do my routine, so two a day, and then the yoga towel I use one side in the morning and one at night and then wash them.

Zwipes Microfiber:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XECJES/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=N32TYJJ2MHWM&coliid=I3U7AVQ15PQA16&psc=1

Eurow Microfiber:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGMHUK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=N32TYJJ2MHWM&coliid=I3AL3X0K0W352R&psc=1

These are basically what I use to wipe the car with.

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-All-Purpose-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

Is that incorrect?

I have bought these 3 things and am happy about my purchase.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16899261002

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIABR04WE2931&cm_re=zip_ties-_-9SIABR04WE2931-_-Product

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-All-Purpose-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

As far as the tool kit goes, the 22 one is on sale for only 22 bucks. The zip ties are more then I'll ever use, and the micro fiber clothes are absolutely ENORMOUS. If you dont need to clean monitors often, maybe dont get the microfiber clothes.

The screwdrivers aren't magnetized so you'll need one of these;
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=magnetizer+demagnetizer&N=-1&isNodeId=1

For your build, at that price point for the CPU go for a 1500X.

https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=2910&cmp[]=3001

What are your experiences with Silk Naturals products like their BHA, AHA, and Vitamin C serum? The Vit C serum has a really attractive price as compared to Paula's Choice.

Also, I got Alpha Hydrox AHA lotion (10% I think) as well as The Body Shop TTO for Christmas and I'm still unsure of how to incorporate them into my skincare routine. I was thinking of trying the AHA lotion once a week, maybe building up to it for regular use, as I'm currently using PC 8% AHA and could probably stand to go higher percentage now. With the TTO, I've tried using a cotton tip to dab it on my acne, but I'm not really sure if it's doing anything. I used it for about a week.

Finally, are these good MF cloths for the face?

There's a couple of different kinds of microfiber cloths, but I'm going to assume you're talking about this stuff

In my experience, microfibers tend to stick to wood, getting caught behind even the tinyest imperfections. That makes for a shitty material to purpose for rubbing over wood. Doesn't mean you can't use them for that anyway, just prepare for feeling like your did a shit job sanding regardless of how well you did.

But you're by far not limited to lint free cotton. You could also use a regular (clean) brush (just watch out for escaped brush hairs, and make sure your stain isn't too thick or the brush stripes won't spread out and disappear). Paper kitchen towels or just toilet paper work fine on wood that's been sanded to like grit 300 and above. In a pinch, a sponge (tends to degrade due to friction, but the chunks are easily cleaned off) will work fine too.

Just beware that whatever you use won't be usable for anything else after the fact.

Fiber Clothe and some Water not much Water you don't want to Damage your 3DS use about what your would use to clean off a controller or a TV Dont use Rubbing Alcohol this can Dry out your Screens and Plastic on your 3DS and make your Screen Foggy. Using the Fiber Clothe should also remove any Grease from your hands as long as you use a little bit of water on it. You can get a Fiber Clothes Super Cheap on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-All-Purpose-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

You can Use the Subscribe and Save to Save a little but of $ once they Ship you Can Cancel your Subscribe and Save and you will still get them cheaper :)

I bought these from Amazon. I love them, so soft :)

Someone also recommended elsewhere of buying a bunch of cheap shirts if you have anywhere around you that sells them and just cut them up into squares.

Water from a spray bottle and one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XECJES/

http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

People use it to finish wood-turned objects, or do-dads of some description, I've seen it on guitars and saw a post about some guy who said he uses it in museums.

I use Gundam Marker Erasure to remove , and Renaissance Wax to prevent further color transfers.

If there's discoloration on the body, etc, Weathering Master works wonders.

If you want more info, there's a NSFW Japanese blog post about it.

I know sword, gun, and other antique collectors use Renaissance Wax to protect their metal items, especially for long term storage. It dries quickly, and provides a very hardy rustproof coating.

http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO

That stuff might work for you

I use this stuff on metals, including occasionally on pens I want to protect:

http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418940793&sr=8-1&keywords=renaissance+wax

My jar is 20 years old, but seems to work fine and looks just like the one @ amazon. I originally got it to keep swords from rusting while unused.

Renaissance Wax is one of my favorites. You could possibly get Rottenstone and a little mineral oil to rub it out but I don't know how you are expecting it to look as far as sheen. Poly isn't a finish I ever mess with too much once it's on. I will usually spray it and forget it because it doesn't usually respond well to reworking (as you can tell). The wax should even things out for you and if you need to refinish it some day you can clean it with Denatured Alcohol before you sand it.

http://www.amazon.com/Grade-Sodium-Hydroxide-Micro-Beads/dp/B001EDBEZM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1356213606&sr=8-2&keywords=lye

If you're confident in yourself, use lye. You can see there difference in post from a while back.

I found Essential Depot on Amazon, free shipping with Prime makes it seem more reasonable. Silly question, but with Palm Oil I was told it had to be warmed up in the original container... How can you tell if the container can benuked in a microwave? It doesn't say microwave safe on the Amazon site. (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EDBEZM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3V9M1NOX9PQ89&coliid=I1XGC0BKGY2U8V)

I noticed the molds around between $50-100, is that normal? Seems rather extravagant to me.

The local chemical factory is a great idea! I have no idea if there is one near me, but still.. Major kudos on creativity.

For anybody wanting to do this.

US: https://www.amazon.com/Drain-Cleaner-Opener-Sodium-Hydroxide/dp/B001EDBEZM/

Canada: https://www.purearome.com/fr/produit/soude-caustique-naoh

Mix about 100-150g/L in a plastic container, put in your light, and watch it.

http://www.amazon.com/Grade-Sodium-Hydroxide-Micro-Beads/dp/B001EDBEZM

DON'T DO THIS

^but If you're dumb enough to do this, do it outside and wear eye and ear protection

Get some lye and some magnesium shavings, a large wax candle or wax block, and a granite crucible. Mix the lye and magnesium together at about a 1:1 ratio in the crucible, and melt the wax in a separate container. Light the magnesium and let it burn for a while, and then put it out after the blinding light and sparks stop by pouring the wax over it. There will be chunks of metal left over, these are elemental sodium. Just the tinyest bit in water will create a similar reaction.

You know now that you mention it I don't even know how pure it is. Here's its listing on Amazon, where I bought it from. I was under the impression that food grade means it's very pure, but now I'm not so sure. That's weird.

This is the brand/where I get mine from

I got mine on Amazon. It's actually cheaper now than when I bought it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EDBEZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Definitely makes a big difference using lye vs baking soda. It's really not that big a deal to work with, just use common sense. If you do get a little bit on you, put some vinegar on it right away to neutralize it.

I've been adding 2tbsp lye to 32 ounces of water (never water to lye!), then dropping pretzels into boiling water for a few seconds. Sorry for crappy pic: https://i.imgur.com/8SBXWIa.jpg

This is what I got. I still have so much left over https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EDBEZM/

It's stainless steel. I wouldn't worry too much about damaging it.

Just soak it in hot soapy water for an hour and then go at it with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Stainless-Steel-Scouring-3-Pad/dp/B002CQTXBC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462972888&sr=8-1

Looks like cooked on food, or hard water deposit. Go to the store, get a scouring pad, and go to town. It'll take awhile, but it should clean right up.

If it's hops you'll have to clean out the tube/poppet/tap/etc. then find a way to filter it BEFORE it enters the dip tube.

Someone below mentioned a muslin bag, but that might cause resistance or foam up the beer.

Stainless steel scouring pads might work. (this was suggested to me once here when I had the same issue). THESE But make sure you boil/sanitize them first and then just get it the bottom of the keg around the bottom of the dip tube. The idea is this will catch the hop sediment before it enters the dip tube. Good luck!

Let it sit overnight with water and some dish soap. Then boil with washing soda Sodium Carbonate, if still stubborn then like IceColdCarnivore said scoure with a stainless steal pad and some elbow grease....

The chain mail thing is great if you want to go that route. Personally I just use a perfectly normal stainless steel scouring pad that you can buy pretty much anywhere for a few dollars. I literally get them at my supermarket and for the past 10 years they have gotten the job done just fine. Good luck!

edit: as to this stuff

>I guess I’ll just buy a chainmail scrubber - but what do I do after cooking? Let it cool? Can I cool it down with cold water? Is 10-15 minutes enough cooking? Do I then go at it with the chainmail and running water?

I let mine cool off. Usually I just go eat dinner. Then when I wash up I wash the pan. Cooling it with cold water .. well I've done it. It works. People will tell you that you have a chance of warping/cracking the pan. If it is hot enough they are correct! So typically I just leave it on the stove till after my meal and then clean up.

>I’m new to this all and struggling. My housemates are all having a go at me for using soap and I explained that lye is the problem but they look at me like I’m an idiot.

Soap gets things clean. Clean is good. Use soap.

Something like this would work: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Brite-Stainless-Steel-Scouring/dp/B002CQTXBC/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1372694956&sr=8-7&keywords=steel+wool

Good choice. I have the same. Here are some bullet points:

• I have a job box that I set it on top of to cook, and store it inside the job box when not in use.
  
• I keep the grate indoors and clean it after every use. A simple course steel pad will work just fine. It and some Dawn dish soap.
  
• I clean out the ash after every use. (I store it in a knee high metal trash can)
  
• I use a chimney stack to start standard charcoal briquettes You only need to fill it 3/4 of the way full.
  
• You can easily close the vents and cap off to kill the briquettes and use them on the next grilling.
  
• I clean grill itself twice a year. Once in the fall before the winter season. And then again late spring/early summer. Once again, some Dawn and the above steel scouring pad works fine.
  
  I cook all the time for my lady and myself. 4 burgers. 8 wings. A full slap of spare ribs (cut in haft), 2 T-bone steaks, Shish-kabobs . So this grill is perfect for your application. Granted, don't plan on cooking a side with most meals, as the meat takes up a good amount of room.
  
  
• Yes you can do Hot and Cold sides. Just put your charcoal to one side. Granted this does limit your cooking space. So you may have to do something like burgers in batches.
  
  Oil is not needed. Thou I tend to Pam not stick spray the griddle right before I put the meat on. It works fine. A little elbow grease when you clean it may be needed, but it is fairly easy.
  
  Some Proof of what I have done with mine:
  
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/512344565479911424
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/493891657683574784
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/466727864847441920
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/451459503956176898
  
• https://twitter.com/eqrunner/status/451443387242389504
  

These should work.

HTH;HAND.

Nope. I was on my phone before, and couldn't easily give a link. One of these.

I would recommend getting a few of these 5 Gallon Water Coolers which you can fill up for pretty cheap at any local supermarket before getting out to the playa. When you buy ice for your food/drink cooler have these 10 gallon ziploc bags ready to pour the ice into. Once it melts and your ready to buy more you can pour that 10 gallon ziplock bag into one of these and bam! ice cold water, also reducing the amount of water you need to carry in - which means WAY less plastic water jugs.

I wrapped mine in shirts and socks and put that all inside one of these. I had one bottle leak a bit so had to wash a shirt at my destination.

when i moved from Hawaii back to Tennessee i put all of my larger set in These fully assembled then put them in plastic storage bins. every thing made it across the pacific and most of North America in (mostly)one piece

Maybe you should just start buying larger ziploc bags. https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Double-Zipper-X-Large-4-Count/dp/B003U6A3EY

Here is a crazy idea. Not sure if it would work, but why not try it out. Perhaps the local walmart would have them too.

I use these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003U6A3EY?pc_redir=1410840103&robot_redir=1

I donated the ones that had zero sentimental value. Then a friend got pregnant so I lent her the clothes I liked and wanted to save for a future child. Then the ones that I absolutely couldn't risk losing, I have packed at home in gallon Ziploc bags.

For us, space is more of an issue than money for new clothes, so the ratio probably went 75% donated, 20% lent out, and 5% saved for me to cry over when my boy goes off to college someday.

Ziploc also makes these super giant storage bags that I keep my maternity clothes in, if you wanted to save most or all of them, you could throw them in one and squish all the air out.

http://www.amazon.com/F-e-s-s-Long-Churchwarden-Tobacco-Pipe/dp/B004ECU1W2
That's the one that I bought

Right here, friend.

http://www.amazon.com/s-s-Long-Churchwarden-Tobacco-Pipe/dp/B004ECU1W2

http://www.amazon.com/F-e-s-s-Long-Churchwarden-Tobacco-Pipe/dp/B004ECU1W2

http://www.amazon.com/F-e-s-s-Long-Churchwarden-Tobacco-Pipe/dp/B004ECU1W2

Picked this one up a couple years back. Ultra cheap, pretty durable, massive bowl (as it's intended for tobacco), filter is incredibly hard to clean so I just removed it. Best of luck!

Amazon, bro. Amazon.

(Amazon)[http://www.amazon.com/s-s-Long-Churchwarden-Tobacco-Pipe/dp/B004ECU1W2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1334843988&sr=8-4] hurry though, not many left. The price will floor you too.

http://www.amazon.com/F-e-s-s-Long-Churchwarden-Tobacco-Pipe/dp/B004ECU1W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426561952&sr=8-1&keywords=fess+churchwarden+pipe

Not OP but it looks exactly like a pipe i have, got it on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ECU1W2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Check out Fess, they have cheaper pipes. I recently bought one for 20 on Amazon haven't gotten it yet so cant say how good it works or is made.

http://www.amazon.com/Boveda-4-Pack-Humidifier-69%25/dp/B004LHSOBK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410570949&sr=8-1&keywords=boveda+69

Boveda 69% Rh 2-Way Humidity Control, Large 60 g, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LHSOBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sPgFDbR35K4Y7

amazon link!

Say no more Fam

Get him some of these and also these

Maybe for the same reason this is a thing

The big thing for me is that they come individually wrapped (not the box shown in OP's pic, but these)

I keep a box in my desk at the office, it's handy to throw one in my suit pocket on the way to the restroom.

I buy these for when I am in a similar situation. You could bring a towel to dry off and then wipes for clean/freshness. They are women's wipes but they have more of a "clean" scent with a little fruit. If you are just way too manly for that, you can get these.

http://www.amazon.com/Dude-Wipes-Flushable-Singles-Travel/dp/B008LXBZF2

That link lead me to this - http://www.amazon.com/Dude-Products-Wipes-Box-30/dp/B008LXBZF2/ref=pd_sim_hpc_1

Anyone ever try this? Seems like another good Roo product. Sweaty Balls and Dude Wipes are quite the product names.

Dude Wipes.

http://amzn.com/B008LXBZF2

At the lower end of the budget, you could get this. Plenty of them, so you could use a few for your monitors or just for all around dusting purposes.

However, they're aren't the best quality towels. If you're willing to spend more than that, you can get higher quality towels, or you could probably spend around the same as that and just get one or two. Because you're in Canada however, I am not really certain on the best places to purchase microfibers without doubling the price due to shipping. (Free shipping on the link I provided, with order over $25)

Microfiber cloth that is slightly damp. I picked some of these up a while back and they are what I have been using...

http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-24-Pack/dp/B00ANZHG7C/

A large microfiber cloth works great for fingerprints and such. The smaller ones are insufficient, like the ones for eyeglasses, so I recommend the ones that are roughly 6" squared. These ones look like the ones I use; they're good for cleaning the mirrors in your house and the windshield in your car since they don't streak:

http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-24-Pack/dp/B00ANZHG7C/

edit: don't use the same cloth that you was your windshield with on your Surface, the ammonia cleaner will eat through the protective covering.

When did I get so boring as to passionately want a cache of dusting cloths.

Oh, always, right. I'm dull.

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

I also frequent /r/skincareaddiction and you can't go wrong with a pack of soft microfiber cloths for drying his face.

I'm planning to write a post in the interior soon but for now...

The first step is to give everything a really good going over with a vacuum. This is where you need to spend most of your time. Almost everything that's not leather can be cleaned with an All Purpose Cleaner (UK link and US link):
Spray it on, agitate with a brush (ordinary paint brush will do). Then...

If it's fabric - vacuum with a wet-dry vac (use a cloth if you don't have one)
If it's trim - wipe dry with a microfibre (UK link and US link)

To protect things I really like 303 Aerospace Protectant... it protects against fading caused by UV radiation (UK link and US link)

Leather is a different kettle of fish and you need to use a cleaner then a conditioner (UK link and US link)

I bought THESE. So far, they have worked well for me. Nothing 'Big Name' about them, but I've used them and washed them a couple times and they hold up fine to normal use. Hard use seems to wear them out, but they are pretty cheap.

You figured this out already, but don't use paper towels if you can help it. Get the large microfiber towels like these. If you have a Harbor Freight in your area you can get 3 for like a buck. Those tiny ones that come with your glasses are for the birds. Also make sure to only use water or specialized glasses cleaner. Never use Windex or the like to clean your specs. Good luck!

The boveda in a cigar box is a short term solution only. Maybe a week or two max. Either start a large tupperdor getting a storage bin the size that will hold boxes (as I do) and add bovedas to it, or just keep the boxes aside. Here is what I use for a tupperdor:

https://www.target.com/p/sterilite-32qt-gasket-box-clear-with-blue-latches/-/A-47820805

https://www.amazon.com/Boveda-65-Percentage-Individually-Wrapped-Humidity/dp/B00FWPQ8WC/ref=asc_df_B00FWPQ8WC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194850414459&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=634815323347317706&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003458&hvtargid=pla-313593725750&psc=1

I use about 8 Bovedas per bin.

I think a good tuppador setup is a Sterilite 20 Qt Air Tight Storage Tote with some large 65% Bovedas and some cedar cigar trays, along with a digital hygro. The cedar trays are completely unnecessary but just nice to have for organization and easy access.

Or check out cheap humidors if you want a wooden one. I think they have a discount code floating around here somewhere.

I use these dryer balls. It's a great price, and they work really well. I just leave them in the dryer for all loads and it's definitely cut down on drying time when I don't dry outside.

You can also get these

http://www.amazon.com/3M-836R-OS-Lint-Roller/dp/B00006IA8Q

Favorite all-around: https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66608-Flashlight-Micro-Stream/dp/B07DLZXZV1

Keychain favorite: https://www.batteryjunction.com/titanium-keylight.html#reviews

2nd favorite keychain: https://www.batteryjunction.com/inmi2wigrblb.html

Theres another one on Amazon that apparently only makes the annoying noise after five seconds. Might be a bit wider as well.

"Tesla Coil LightersTM USB Rechargeable Windproof Arc Lighter"

i bet you did pay near a dollar each too:

http://www.amazon.com/Shower-Naturally-Soothing-Hypoallergenic-Replacement/dp/B01FAQ8Q04/ref=sr_1_15_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1465052761&sr=8-15&keywords=dude+wipes

sucker born every day; 9 of those or 500 baby wipes... you're not a schill, you're a complete moron

also check the main review on dude wipes:
http://www.amazon.com/Dude-Wipes-Flushable-Singles-Travel/dp/B008LXBZF2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_194_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41fi9oUkDJL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0RP5516M4Z2HH7QFS199#customerReviews

brutal