Best houshehold finishes, sealers & stains according to redditors

We found 387 Reddit comments discussing the best houshehold finishes, sealers & stains. We ranked the 173 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Household Finishes, Sealers & Stains:

u/shady_mcgee · 30 pointsr/howto

Looks pretty easy. The basic steps are Sand, Seal, Stain, Finish

  1. Sand - Get a Random Orbit Sander and some 100 and 220 grit pads for it. Use the 100 grit to sand everything down until it looks like new again, then use the 220 to sand it all nice and smooth. Do a good job here, because poor sanding will show up in the finished product. You don't need the random orbit sander for this and could do it by hand with a sanding block, but the machine will do a better job of sanding and do it in about 1/20 of the time.

  2. Seal - I've used Minwax pre-stain conditioner. There are instructions for how to use it at the link

  3. Stain - Get a nice oil based stain and apply it. I use a foam brush to apply the stain, wait about 30 seconds, then wipe it off with a cotton rag (old t-shirts work great). Wait a couple of days after staining before proceeding to step 4

  4. Finish - This is always the hardest part, because it's the part that will show/bring out any imperfections that were left in the previous steps. You'll need to find a dust free room (floating dust in the air will land on the finish as its drying and become embedded in it). My favorite finish is wipe on poly because it applies easily with a rag (another old t-shirt, cut into strips), and doesn't leave runs or brush marks. I typically wipe on one coat a day, applying each coat on top of the previous one. I'll normally do three or four coats. Some people say you need to sand between coats but from my experience I don't see any difference between sanding and not sanding, except that sanding takes off some of the finish, requiring more coats and also requires cleaning the piece between coats.
u/morninwood187 · 21 pointsr/DIY

I recently bought a bandsaw : Rikon 14" Deluxe so I needed a project that required a bunch of resaw work. What better than a chest of drawers?

Overall this chest of drawers took around 70 hours to complete, mostly because I didn't know what I was doing. I put a few layers of General Finishes Satin Polyurethane on all sides and the top.

I made it completely from scratch, and it was intended to just be a practice piece. I've never made drawers before, and never resawn wood before, so it was a great learning experience.

Comments? Criticisms? Let me know what you think!

u/eldredracing · 15 pointsr/Luthier

If you want to "stain", look into keda dyes. They are cheap and you can mix the color to your liking. I've done a couple of burst finishes with them and it was no problem. Here is a telecaster album with the dye process:

Dye itself:

u/Zilog8 · 12 pointsr/DIY

Hey, I had the same problem (but with people). What I did was buy a can of clear non-skid coating, and it works like a charm. It wears off over time however, depending on how much foot traffic it gets. I usually reapply once a year.

u/freeseasy · 11 pointsr/DIY

Pour some epoxy over the top. It looks great and will totally protect the surface.

u/kyriose · 10 pointsr/minipainting

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:


  • Nippers
  • Hobby Knife
  • Thinning Medium
  • Glue
  • Glue Accelerant
  • Brush Cleaner
  • Palette


  • Primer
    ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  • Matte Varnish


  • Brushes
    ○ Round 0
    ○ Round 1
    ○ Round 2

    All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.

    This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
u/d0gmeat · 10 pointsr/DIY

I'm a fan of Watco butcher block finish. It finishes harder like a poly, especially with a few coats (think wooden spoons that you buy)... Less greasy than mineral oil or wax. I do use the stuff you used on my cutting boards though.

But for knife blocks and other stuff that won't take quite as much abuse as a cutting board but still needs a safer finish than poly, the Watco stuff if great. (Lowe's carries it, btw... Dunno about home depot)

u/gfixler · 7 pointsr/woodworking

Play it some Daft Punk ;)

You can get wood stabilized through certain companies. Basically, they use proprietary means to infiltrate the surfaces with resins that essentially infuse the wood with plastic. You can also coat the wood with strong substances. There are actual products called wood hardeners meant more for bolstering rotting wood, but they'd probably toughen it up some. If you're just looking to strengthen the surface against dings and scratches, you can just do a nice, strong finish.

As to that, I don't know anyone who knows more about finishing wood than Jeff Jewitt. He has books on the subject. Good books. In this article by Jeff, he writes "In fact, oil-based varnish is the most durable finish that can be easily applied by the average woodworker. Varnish surpasses most other finishes in its resistance to water, heat, solvents and other chemicals." That might be a good choice.

u/With_which_I_will_no · 6 pointsr/woodworking

obligatory post for

if you want to really understand this subject. get it, read it. I have read it several times.

it's like the bible of finishing.

u/MrCaptainJorgensen · 5 pointsr/Luthier

K, if this is wrong, someone PLEASE, correct me! I'm here to be a good luthier, not cradle my ego.

I use an automotive paint for my color coats, see if you can find a local place that does custom jobs, my local shop has a binder as thick as a bible with color chips to choose from

For my clear coats, tint coats, sunbursts, etc I like Woodcraft's stringed instrument lacquer, it's basicall just a nitro finish, and I tint it with an ailide dye that I cut with alcohol

My biggest recommendation is get advise from a better luthier than myself. StewMac has a great book that has a lot of classic formulas, anf will give you all of the info you are looking for.

Edit: grammar/formatting is not my friend

u/Dont_Think_So · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Here's the wood filament (note that my printer takes 3mm filament, you might need the 1.75mm filament which they also have available): . Alternatively, I've heard good things about hatchbox wood filament, but it wasn't available in 3mm on Amazon.

Here's the finisher: .

And here's a picture of this print from before I stained, to give you an idea of how it changes the print:

Edit: To get this level of darkness, I stained it twice, ten-fifteen minutes each.

u/CropDustingBombShell · 4 pointsr/Norse

Sure! I looked into it a while back for a project, but I never got around to the project.
Here's a website with direction directions:
And here's the varnish:

u/constantino2 · 4 pointsr/woodworking

you will want to use an epoxy finish, wood itself is obviously not water tight, and any typical finish like polyurethane are not permanently water tight. So you basicly need to coat the wood in clear plastic, atleast on the inside.

this would work

u/thesnakeinwoodysboot · 4 pointsr/turning

This book right here. Everything you need to know about finishing is in this.

u/AlliedMasterComp · 4 pointsr/woodworking

Exterior, Spar, or marine grade varnishes have UV blockers (usually) in them that normal interior finishes do not.

Epifanes is very popular and performed the best in a test in FWW #205

u/elemenelope · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I understand your wife's aesthetic concerns; a white kitchen really does brighten up a space, and the old wooden decor is extremely outdated and makes you feel like you're in the 80's nowadays. I recently repainted my kitchen cabinets as well:


I bought General Finishes milk paint. You don't need any other base coat or stripping original paint; just put it right on top the old wood.


Topped it off with some topcoat:


Total paint cost about $160, and the additional paintbrushes/trays $30, so all in less than $200. It took me about 5 full (~8 hour) days; definitely a lot of work, but worth it for the value. Super happy with the end result given how cheap it was.

u/The_Terrierist · 3 pointsr/Gloomhaven

Nice work! I, too, started painting minis with Gloomhaven.

Don't try and seal them with clear nail polish, like an idiot I know. Get a spray can of Army Painter or something.

u/blackzx1200 · 3 pointsr/Luthier
I did a telecaster with aniline dyes from Keda.  Just mix with water or alcohol.<br />



u/mexicoke · 3 pointsr/DIY

I would put a layer of epoxy coating on top of the whole thing. Something like this should be available at a local big box store.

u/Halfpipe_1 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

You might check out General Finishes Waterbased Poly - Non-affiliated Amazon link.

There are others but this one gets good reviews. The only downside to WB poly is the lack of depth of color in the finished products over oil based. Make some samples before you finish your desktop.

u/ryzekiel · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Everyone's got to finish their projects, and I've found this book to be such a good resource:

u/bryce831 · 3 pointsr/finishing

A clear pour over epoxy would be best. The water base varnish would not stand the test of time and you would eventually have the same peeling problem. Epoxy is bulletproof and isn't that hard to use. Something like this would work well.

u/coherent-rambling · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Nope, although you might get away with it depending on your goals.

Finishing wood for outdoors is really difficult, largely because of the UV exposure. Almost any finish breaks down over time and needs reapplied every so often, but if the finish isn't UV-stabilized specifically for outdoor use, that process takes days or weeks instead of years.

The most protection you can give wood is paint, or a semi-opaque deck stain, which is pretty much the same thing. If you don't want to obscure the grain that much, you need to look at marine varnishes, since they're typically formulated for serious long-term exposure. Epifanes Classic is widely regarded as one of the best options, but any boat supply place will have other options. Follow the directions exactly, no matter how complex the coating schedule. "Spar urethane" from a hardware store, like Minwax Helmsman, is plenty waterproof and can handle a bit of sunlight, but it can't handle long-term daily exposure like the better finishes. Unfortunately, even those better finishes will eventually break down and need recoated.

Another option is to skip the finish entirely. Trees spend quite a lot of time outdoors, and perhaps unsurprisingly some species are quite good at it even once you strip off the bark. Ipe, osage orange, black locust, and teak are some of the best choices, and white oak, western red cedar, and black walnut are pretty decent as well. Those woods, with no finish at all, will survive longer than most wood finishes.

If you happened to make your marker out of a resilient wood, the Danish oil won't help much but also won't hurt. You could stick it outside now and likely be fine for a decade or two. If it's not one of those woods, spend some time putting a high-end marine varnish on. It'll still need touched up occasionally, but that'll give it a shot.

Ultimately, I hope you're not expecting a century of service out of this. Wood is great, but tombstones are usually granite for a reason.

u/WeoftheThing · 3 pointsr/Norse

Clean it well. Seal the inside with a food safe sealant. Bee's wax is the most common, but you can get other hardier things like this bar top sealer. bee's wax shouldn't be washed with hot water, or used with hot beverages it'll damage the seal.

u/B0bTerwilliger · 3 pointsr/Luthier

Thank you. I bought these Leda dyes Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Colour Kit - Wood Stain Powder by Keda Dye

u/dumnzzz · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I spent about $1300 in walnut (103 BF 8/4", 24 BF 4/4") and $60 on the poplar (31 BF 4/4"). I way overbought on the walnut and probably still have 30-40 board feet left over (only 8/4") since I bought extra to pick out the best sections of each board.

The bolts aren't visible from the outside. Here's another picture of a test joint I did so you can see how the bolts work better which I got from Rockler

I've slept on the bed for about 3 months before I put the finish on it (Arm-R-Seal so I'm not concerned about the dowels breaking. Plus if they do break it's easy enough to take apart and put new dowels in or if I wanted to look into a metal rod instead of dowels.

Yes it's a Leesa mattress and I've been happy with it for the 2 years I've had it.

u/CrimsonKeel · 3 pointsr/turning

this is the dye i ordered.;amp;psc=1
the directions were kinda crappy and confusing. so i ended up using the alcohol based part of the directions and it worked fine. Then i did a spray poly on it and buffed it to a shine.

u/mustardgreens · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Army Painter Matte Spray Varnish is what I use.

It's actually great to use on top of Gloss Varnish, since the gloss goes on thicker and does a good job of protecting the mini.

Matte on top of gloss will appear matte.

u/vtjohnhurt · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I use;amp;qid=1473080884&amp;amp;sr=8-6&amp;amp;keywords=spar+varnish whenever I'm concerned about yellowing, say from the sunlight from a window. It's formulated to block UV which is what causes fading and yellowing.

It will not give you the finest furniture lacquer quality finish, but a very nice finish is doable if you take care with multiple coats, sand between coats, use a proper tack rag, maybe thin a tiny bit with mineral spirits to get thinner coats. Finish is tough and you don't have to worry about damage from the misc stuff that gets thrown on tables.

The only drawback is that it is oil based, so you need good ventilation when working with it and it takes a few days to lose the smell completely.

Please post a photo of the finished project in reply to this comment.

u/joelav · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Poly will. You can mess around with spar/long oil varnishes, or you can just do it right the first time and stop fucking around

u/BoxxcarCadavers · 2 pointsr/turning

I used the Rustoleum version of this on my shot glasses that I made recently. Holds up to alcohol pretty well and is food safe so I'm guessing the wear and tear is pretty good as well. I think the salad bowl stuff is essentially the same thing as well.

Hope this helps :)

u/flavor8 · 2 pointsr/DIY

Yeah I patched the big voids with mortar. You can see a slight difference in color but it's not bad at all. My sink is ground/polished down to the point that there is a lot of exposed aggregate (and the surface had a shine before the epoxy, I guess from the polished silicon in the sand?), so there's a lot going on anyway.

If you are leaving any voids (which is fine, just make sure they can drain so that water doesn't sit in them), make sure to thoroughly vacuum them so there's no cement dust that could come loose.

I (think I) used this one:

Here's a pic of the sink; it looks better in person :)

u/eadsm · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/m1rv · 2 pointsr/Leathercraft

Someone has been using this stuff out at renfests for years - Link.

u/flycrg · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I made mine out of cypress (1 with a cedar inlay and cedar plugs) and treated them with Waterlox Marine Sealer and I think I'll do something different for the next ones. After 9 months and 2-3 coats on everything, I'm already starting to get some silvering. I think on the next set (that isn't painted) I'll try Epifanes Clear Varnish

u/eneka · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

[this]( 63200444 Helmsman Spar Urethane, quart, Gloss is the one I got. Make sure it's not the water based one. And then mix it with mineral spirits. Most diys call for a 50/50 mix of both

u/RavRob · 2 pointsr/woodworking

It depends on the finish on the table now. If it is an oil, use Watco Butcher Block Oil and Finish. it will both protect it and rejuvenate the shine on it while keeping the antic look without adding any dark coloring to it.

u/EarthwrmJim · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Water based poly wont stand up for long if it's left outside. If you want to refinish it every year it will work. Oil based poly will last a little longer but spar urethane will last longer outside and marine varnish (something like Epifanes Marine Varnish will last for years exposed to the elements. It's not the cheapest option though.

u/umlaut · 2 pointsr/Norse

Ah, ok. The problem with those is usually the cheap fit between the wood base and the horn.

A lot of people use Envirotex to seal their horns, that would certainly work in your case:;qid=1432588567

u/crisby · 2 pointsr/somethingimade

I've done a similar thing:

I mixed the glow powder with this resin and dripped it into all the bug-eaten spots in the wood.

u/Guygan · 2 pointsr/DIY

Sounds like you want to use the kind of finish that is used on bar tops and bar tables. There are many different brands, such as this one:

Or this:

u/MysteriousRacer_X · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

They might last longer than you think, but if you are looking to add some protection, just use something like this

u/CyphersFallen · 2 pointsr/knifemaking

I use :

EPOXY Resin Crystal Clear 1 Gallon Kit. for Super Gloss Coating and TABLETOPS

I use construction paper. But I have found many problems using card stock. Switched to heavyweight rather than card stock and have had no problems. Thinner the better.

u/jkarovskaya · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Acacia us beautiful stuff.

I've used this liquid epoxy before for an outdoor sign I made, held up OK but in direct UV, it will need recoating every so often.

do a small test batch on scrap to get process down

For inside, should be fine

u/ShacklefordLondon · 2 pointsr/woodworking

also, check out Understanding Wood Finishes by Bob Flexner amazon link

It's basically an encyclopedia on best practices for finishing and goes through specific techniques for a LOT of different kinds of wood.

u/mat5041 · 2 pointsr/woodworking


If you want to really have an idea of what you're doing when finishing, I recommend Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner

u/liquidhot · 2 pointsr/woodworking

This is actually before they are coated and I'm not sure I chose the right option here, but I'm currently coating them with a 2 part epoxy resin which I will then sand with some 600 grit to take away the gloss and give it a satin finish.

However, the kind I used is really meant for a horizontal surface, so I'm having trouble getting it to apply to all of the sides in an even fashion.

u/dstampfli · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I respectfully call Bullpucky on that.

"Almost any finishing product – stain, filler, glaze, finish – can be applied successfully over any other finishing product, except wax (including residue wax from paint strippers), as long as that product is dry." - Bob Flexner.

This article is good. His BOOK is even better.

u/Karmonauta · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I would use spar varnish with UV blockers, like a marine finish meant for boats, for example this one:;amp;psc=1

u/PBYACE · 2 pointsr/boatbuilding

I would sand it down, dry it out thoroughly, like under a heat lamp, then using a poly varnish thinned down to water-like consistency, add coats to it until it no longer takes any more. In bad cases, use something like this:;amp;keywords=minwax+primer&amp;amp;qid=1555787793&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sprefix=minwax+primer%2Caps%2C229&amp;amp;sr=8-3-fkmrnull
Pros tell me that seven coats of varnish is the absolute minimum.

u/Odjur · 2 pointsr/DIY

Seven coats of Semi-Gloss Arm-R-Seal.

u/NinjaCoder · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Why do you think spar is more effort than poly, and why do you think it will take longer?

I stopped using normal spar urethane since they changed the formula to comply with the new VOC regulations here in the USA - it simply isn't what it used to be.

Lately, I only use Ephiphanes on my outdoor projects. It is really thick, but I thin it a good deal, and use multiple thin coats (just like poly). It is expensive, but worth it.

u/wolvsbain · 2 pointsr/woodworking

heres the one i use for castings and orbs;amp;psc=1 . Its quite slow acting so its easy to get bubbles out and is really nice and impact resistant. might want to leave it overnight cause if theres not much of it it will take longer to set cause of the chemical reaction heat. a dixie cup full will set in 30 min, but an 18th of an inch in the same dixie cup might take 6 hours to set.

u/WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt · 2 pointsr/diypedals

Give me minute to look up the video I saw but it is not that hard and the acid is very dilute. It takes less money than powdercoating and the finish is amazing. Plus it can be used to do multicolor effects. The bar top finish is an epoxy based finish. Ill look for a link brb.

Ok here it is the bartop finish;amp;robot_redir=1

And here is anodizing.

This guy is monotone but he is very clear.

Multicolor mask technique

I already etch boards this is not much more difficult
Plus you can do photoemulsion resist and do really crazy graphics.
I will be doing some of this in the next few months and will post my results.

u/climber_g33k · 2 pointsr/gaming

Fuck buying at lowes, you can get a gallon of epoxy on amazon for 48 bucks + shipping.

u/tdgkorn · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I haven't used it yet, but I'm about to try This and then some of This on top of some patio furniture. It's used on boats and is highly recommended. I hope it works.

u/ArizonaLad · 1 pointr/DIY

So you want to create your own butcher block?

If you just want to glue it, using a biscuit joiner would insure that it remains flat and level. The biscuits help lock it together.

For the finish, you want to look for the label "food safe". Something like this:

u/kmmk · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

I'm not 100% sure but if anyone is wondering...

This is the kind of product they used to cover the sprinkles:

It's not very easy to use though. After applying an even layer, air bubbles will appear and you need to burst them with a torch.

u/Trtlman · 1 pointr/crafts
u/justinyhuang · 1 pointr/woodworking

thank you for the reply!

i am in ID, USA.

Woodworking has been my hobby for a few years. I've tried brush stain on some of my projects but I haven't tried dye.

Do you think I can get this color by using the stain below?;amp;qid=1467402865&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=wood+stain

u/happyrabbits · 1 pointr/woodworking

Thank you!

I used KEDA Dye

u/the_MrBerg · 1 pointr/battlestations
  • Rubber Feet 1 1/8".
  • Cable Tray x2.
  • None of the steel is painted currently.
  • Stain - Provincial 211 used 2-3 coats then applied some Wipe-On Poly to protect it. I actually built the top and did the stain 2 years ago and this is how it looks today... it has held up really well.
  • This desk is only 60" long (5'). Mostly because it was more cost effective for me to purchase 2"x6"x10' boards and have them cut in half in store.
u/LH99 · 1 pointr/boardgames

I used this stuff. I think it cured for almost 14 days before I rubbed it.

Environmental Technology 32-Ounce Kit Lite Pour-On, High Gloss Finish

u/litronix · 1 pointr/tabletop

This stuff,

Don't have much use for the red, yellow, and blue. I mostly used the brown with a touch of black.

u/Sniper1154 · 1 pointr/pics

I did. I found that sealing it with three coats of Shellac and finishing it with something like General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Semi-Gloss seemed to work very well

u/ccrjf · 1 pointr/turning

I haven't used food coloring yet, so can't really comment on that aspect of it, but I ordered some Keda Dye about a year ago because I wanted to experiment with aniline dye without blowing a chunk of change on TransTint. I mix it with DNA (water can be used as well) so I can flash it off with a torch and set the colors quickly. Example on a bowl

u/Skrugz11 · 1 pointr/DIY

Has anyone ever used wood hardener? Minwax 41700 1 Pint High Performance Wood Hardener

u/lsuknip · 1 pointr/DIY

I would stain first, and then use a high quality spar varnish like Epifanes to seal, waterproof, and UV protect the final product.

u/bassfingerz · 1 pointr/guitarporn

wood dye if you want color, spray tru oil or shellac. You can buy the tru oil spray cans online, not sure if they have in stores.
I recommend this
wood dye.

u/300BLK_Lives_Matter · 1 pointr/woodworking

Epoxy is a decent idea, but I'd add a couple of coats of good spar varnish on top of that. At that point, it doesn't much matter what type of wood you use.

u/Jfox8 · 1 pointr/battlestations

Minwax 60910000 Wipe-On Poly Finish Clear, quart, Satin

u/Austingd · 1 pointr/turning

Gerneal Finishes Salad Bowl Finish

It recommends 3 coats, but I think I ended up with 5, sanding with finish grade steel wool between coats.

This is the second one I made, the first was for my oldest son about 4 years ago. The finish faded in luster considerably, so I thought adding a few more coats would help prolong the gleam.

u/Supervisor194 · 1 pointr/finishing

If it is really wood, you can sand it and use Java Gel Stain.

If it isn't really wood, and I suspect it isn't, then it may not stick, especially with you putting things on/off of it.

u/Lucc_frilgo · 1 pointr/woodworking

Minwax Poly is this what you're talking about and if so, should I get the regular or water based. Also which size, quart or half a pint. There is also an aerosol version of the regular version and I was wondering if that is just as good. Thanks

u/JD6VI · 1 pointr/FidgetSpinners

To all the makers out there buying this "Turbo Glow" material from another supplier thus resulting in what I think is an inflated price. Now I could be wrong but all this stuff is, is a mixture of a glow powder


and some type of or something similar to a clear epoxy resin


placed into a block mold allowed to harden then cut into sections. The brittle nature of this material is probably dependent on how much powder is used. The more you use the brighter and more brittle it will be.

Now this is just my theory on "Turbo Glow" again I could be wrong. In any case I intend to use this method for future projects of mine, take it or leave it.

u/doppelbock42 · 1 pointr/turning

Unfinished should be fine but if you wanted to use something they make finishes for things that will contact food. Here's an example of one made for butcher blocks and salad bowls. I've never used it myself.

u/rhett121 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Epifanes varnish. Use the Wood Finish Gloss to build up a smooth surface without sanding between each coat. Sand after a few coats and apply the Clear varnish for a stunning finish. It will give you the rich color you're after and the clear super smooth high gloss finish you want. Plus it has super UV and water resistance.;amp;simLd=1&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=51QTN7uDRlL._SY200_QL15_&amp;amp;slTrans=0&amp;amp;ref=nsDpPl

u/randohandle · 1 pointr/DIY

I just redid this thing A sanded to 150 grit with bare wood. I'm not sure there was any finish on it to begin with. I used this dye 1/4 teaspoon in 8oz of denatured alcohol. 2-3 coats of the dye with a piece of t shirt. Black on the dresser and red on the drawers. It dries in like 30 seconds. The dye looks different when it dries, but polyurethane over top brings it back to how it looks when wet. Then I put on a few coats of old crusty oil based polyurethane with a $.50 harbor freight brush. Let the 2nd to last coat dry for 24 hours. Lightly sand and pick out the fibers shed by the brush. Then the final coat.

u/Regel_1999 · 1 pointr/woodworking

It was This type of wood filler.It was Minwax Stain

u/BrassUnicorn · 1 pointr/InteriorDesign

I bought mine off amazon because they're notoriously hard to find in person

u/catdumpling · 1 pointr/Luthier

Good job (although I don't think you'll need that much maple ;) .) And hey, if you're crafty and feeling like making some guitar tools, you can use some of that maple, epoxy and a single-cut file (medium or fine) to make a fret-leveling file! I always keep some pieces of HD maple laying around, it comes in handy for all sorts of projects (plus it's strong and cheap!)

BTW, here's a link to Keda Dyes on Amazon, although they're available from their own site as well. The packets are small, but it's super concentrated (as are most powdered aniline dyes), so a little bit goes a long way. For $13 shipped, you might be interested in trying them out.

Here's a link to Fiebings Leather Dye, if you're considering giving that a go. Note that it's alcohol-based, so you can thin them out with alcohol if necessary (they're pretty heavy colors, so thinning would probably be a good thing; you can always add extra coats, but you'll have a lot of sanding to do if you put on too much!) Woodcraft and Rockler both carry some dyes as well, and Woodcraft is just a great place to shop anyway.

u/djfunkysquish · 1 pointr/woodworking

I'm working right now on getting a finish much like what you're describing that is based off a sister product to the one Gomlemer noted. I used this epoxy mainly cause it was available in small quantities at the local big box stores on short notice.

I want a finish for reclaimed wood that retains the history but still looks and feels great. Plus i didn't want the finish to be crazy thick. I wanted the holes filled, but the subtle contour of the wood to still be present.
Here's where i went with my finish. I used a clear coat poly to bring out the wood grain and make it pop. (not sure yet if you need this step). Then i used mixed the epoxy per the instructions on the box, but thinned it with about 10% to 20% acetone. Once I had the final mixture I brushed it on. I went over that sucker a bunch making sure no drips were forming cause i eventually got it on pretty thick, but certainly not as thick as just pouring it on and spreading it. Once it set but not cured about 8-12 hours if it wasn't thick enough or there were spots that weren't smooth enough based on the wood contour i mixed a little more and went over those again with the brush.

After I was happy with the thickness of the epoxy I let it cure to it's high gloss finish. Then went over the entire surface with #0000 steel wool. Then a couple of layers paste wax later i was pretty happy with the finish.
As I'm still working on the finish for a large project I hope to take on this winter (a table from my grandfathers barn) i don't have any huge pieces to show, but here are a few shots from the test laptop table I put together to figure out the finish.

u/KingBaby87 · 1 pointr/woodworking

So the wood conditioner was just the standard Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner

For the poly, I plan on using some Minwax Polyurethane in clear satin

I know oil-based poly will leave a slight amber look as well...

u/probablydyslexic · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have had success with Hatchbox on my Prusa

Also this stain, and color variants of it. Some stains are horrendously liquidy and often the things I want to stain that I have 3D printed are complex shapes that I want to carefully stain.

u/maple_blondie · 1 pointr/DIY

Use a gel stain like General Finishes Gel Stain -

u/scherlock79 · 1 pointr/finishing

From the translation, its just a solvent based urethane finish. This would be similar, There are lots of manufacturers of solvent based urethane finishes though.

u/ailee43 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Check out powdered Keda dyes as a comparable alternative for enormously cheaper:

u/HuggableBear · 1 pointr/woodworking

Per Bob Flexner's book,

Warping like this is caused by compression shrinkage. When the wood fibers get wet, especially only on one side, they are limited in their ability to swell laterally, so they well longitudinally. This deforms the fibers, making them longer than they were. They then dry in that long, thin shape, and when they try to return to their original configuration while drying, they are now thinner than they were because of the deformation. This causes them to shrink tighter than they were, pulling the sides of the board into a cup.

The solution to this is counterintuitive but effective. Since you can't fix the wood fibers that have already deformed, you have to deform the other side to match it. Clamp the sides so the wood can't expand in that direction, then soak the bowed (not cupped) side with water and let it dry. You may need to do this several times, but now the fibers on the opposite side will deform, shrink, and pull the board back flat.

It looks like you may need to remove the finish from the top to pull this off, unfortunately, but it's likely the only way to approach a fix without removing wood from the piece. Good Luck!

u/sevans105 · 1 pointr/DIY

minwax woodhardener May help as well. Basically makes it plastic. Gonna need A LOT though to do the whole stool. The cracks will be through the whole piece.

Cool effect though is to let it crack. Then mix up clear epoxy with crushed turquoise, or some other stone/metal/etc and fill it back in.

Check out this video. youtube inlay with turquoise sand

u/MattTheProgrammer · 1 pointr/DIY

If I were you, I would use 2 x 12" joist material. Laminate two lengths of the material together such that it becomes a 4 x 12". Then, you will want to have a support as /u/wbgraphic suggests out of the same 4 x 12 material. Since this will be outside (from the sounds of it), you will want to use titebond III and then finish the entire assembly in marine varnish for durability (epifanes is some hardcore shit). I would also suggest that the entire support structure should be attached not just by lagging to one side of the pole, but via a complete wrap around the pole either with steel cable or some other such structure.

100lbs isn't that much weight, but if you're going to use it as a heavy bag for martial arts, there are quite a few lateral forces to contend with and not just static load. Research how heavy signs are hung from buildings using a boom arm and you'll have a better idea.

u/Witcher357 · 1 pointr/BdsmDIY

I've used this for an insertable custom flogger handle. Its glossier than the 2-ton and adds a honey amber tone to the wood.

u/Linguist208 · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind

Something like this or this?

u/klcrouch · 1 pointr/woodworking

General Finishes “wood bowl finish”

GF products are excellent.

General Finishes SBQT Wood Bowl Finish 1 Quart

u/BrungardtBlade-Tool · 1 pointr/Bladesmith

I used Minwax to stabilize about 12 sets of scales inside a pickle jar I turned into a vacuum with a brake bleeder and a brass fitting. So long as you don't manage to suck up the resin into the break bleeder it'll last long enough to get your moneys worth. Got about 27PSI with a full jar load which is enough so long as your scales are not too thick (over 1/2").

This video is basically the same thing I built but with a pump.

Haven't used it but I know cactus juice is very popular.

u/NoCleverNickname · 1 pointr/woodworking

An alternative to shellac would be wipe-on polyurethane. This is the stuff I use, works like a charm. Goes on thin so you don't have to worry about drips or runs. It does darken the wood a little bit since it's oil based, but that means that the grain and any figure also pops.

u/HighSintellect · 1 pointr/MansionsOfMadness2E

After you paint minis that you intend to play with it’s a good idea to seal them with varnish. It protects the paint job otherwise you can start to wear it down over time.

Generally, matte varnish is best unless you want really shiny - take a look at the army painter spray here:;amp;qid=1555252570&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-14

The reason you want to do it before basing them is the varnish will cloud up the clear base, so you want to get them all finished before re-basing them.

Hope this helps!

u/RamblingMutt · 1 pointr/Luthier

I would suggest:

u/thePA-S · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting
  1. Wetsand with 800 then 2000 grit sandpaper (go lower if deeper scratches and work up to 2000)

  2. Polish with some kind of plastic polish using a microfiber buffing attachment for a drill.

  3. Clean with rubbing alcohol to remove residue.

  4. Mix 50/50 ratio of mineral spirits and Helmsman Spar Urethane clear gloss (

  5. Apply the mixture to headlight with 1"x1" folded blue shop towel.

    The full guide:
u/File_Peter · 1 pointr/woodworking

If you are having people sign the bare wood and then you want to cover it with something glossy i suggest epoxy. Something like this should do the trick. Check youtube for tutorials on how to use it, but it is fairly simple.

u/opensaysme79 · 1 pointr/woodworking

I think you can get some epoxy resin to skim the top.


u/kryptoniterazor · 1 pointr/diyguitar

That looks like the elvis costello jazzmaster? The new reissue fender did was alder with a "walnut" finish and nitrocellulose lacquer. That guitar in the picture looks like it has a much more satin finish though, so you'd have to do some sanding to get it looking more flat instead of shiny. Either way alder with a dark stain will get you most of the way.

I've tried to do walnut stain on light wood before and it's had mixed results, often brings out too much of the grain (especially on pine) so be sure to test the stain on the interior of the pickup cavity before you do the whole thing.

u/Beerandababy · 1 pointr/finishing

I would be very careful with your decision. A countertop can be considered a food-contact surface, yes? You should strongly consider a food-grade sealer. Most sealers are highly toxic.

I recommend using a food-grade varnish. It’s far more durable and long-lasting than mineral oil, but not as much so as other sealers.

[Here is my favorite for cutting boards and such. ](General Finishes SBQT Salad Bowl Finish, 1 quart It isn’t cheap, but eating toxic substances won’t end up being cheap either.

Edit: hopefully a working link?

Btw: it’s waaaay cheaper anywhere else but amazon, for some reason.

u/muddy700s · 1 pointr/DIY

What if you embedded the flowers in epoxy resin similar to this countertop

u/Alucard1797 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I don't think so, but here is a link to what I frequently use.

u/crashdmj · 1 pointr/homegym

I used the following:;amp;psc=1

Just a word of advice, spray this outside or in a well ventilated area or else be prepared to be smelling the noxious fumes for a couple hours later.

u/EricAzure · 1 pointr/cosplay

Thanks, I'm going to go ahead and try thin layers of Envirotex pour on gloss. Has 1 bottle of resin and 1 bottle of hardener that you mix.;amp;psc=1

u/Kdubs200 · 1 pointr/turning

Yeah I'm thinking about drinking out of it not sure how it will taste. I put on a food safe finish it's called watco;amp;robot_redir=1

u/lemonforest · 1 pointr/OpenPV

One more for you; Looking at this on Amazon, any thoughts? Also, where I have a seam between edges from doing the outside and inside, will I want to buff or anything or is this going to be like concrete and slow and steady wins the race?

u/bogdanx · 1 pointr/woodworking

No finish yet, but I was planning to use this marine grade varnish once the table top is on.

u/f1zzz · 1 pointr/Bladesmith

You can find it at Home Depot, too;amp;qid=1449020221&amp;amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;amp;sr=8-1

Might not penetrate as well, never used CA glue, but it'll definitely gap fill and then some.

It's often used for bar/table tops.

u/Choa707 · 1 pointr/woodworking

I could never seem to get a great finish with minwax polly, but then I switched to the Arm-R-Seal polly and it was night and day. very smooth and just all around a higher quality finish

u/FuriousE · 1 pointr/woodworking

Check this stuff out:

Or, you could put a piece of glass on top of the door.

I would make sure that this is going to be an aesthetic that you'll like though...

u/DavidPx · 1 pointr/woodworking

Understanding Wood Finishing by Box Flexner has a whole section on French Polishing, well worth a read.

u/GOpencyprep · 0 pointsr/IDAP

Thanks dude! And, yeah that's an awesome design, I think it'd make a cool deck too.

I'll let you in on a secret that took me forever to figure out: the best way to make masking / stencils is to get yourself some transparency sheets, like the kind used for overhead projectors in school, and then take a marker and draw what you want to spray through (best way to make stencils). Then take a 'wood burning kit' (which is just a low-heat soldering gun pretty much) and use it to "trace" your lines on the transparancy sheet, do it light and quick and it'll cut the parts out that you want - afterwards you'll be left with a mask or stencil that's much stronger than paper, easy to clean, and the wood engraver allows you to make more detailed and smoother cuts than if you were masking with tape, or cutting out of cardboard or card stock.

When you finish your painting, you'll want to give it a light coat of clear spray finish, and when that dries hit it with a coact of actual clear coat - I use minwax - that''s 'satin' (which is their way of saying 'matte') listed there but I prefer mine to be gloss. It's important that you hit it with the spray finish first, because it'll seal the paint, and the minwax may cause it to run if you don't. I use a lot of markers in my paintings and minwax will absolutely make them bleed and run if I don't seal them first.

You also want to seal it because the acrylic will easily chip off the deck

Like I said, also be aware that painting on a deck is A LOT different than painting on canvas, the deck will cause the acrylic to paint much faster than canvas so you lose that 'wet period' you normally have to blend paint.

Good luck, post a picture when you finish it! And feel free to drop me a line if you have any other questions.