(Part 2) Best hunting & shooting accessories according to redditors
We found 767 Reddit comments discussing the best hunting & shooting accessories. We ranked the 317 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
My advice, stop right now. Its done. You don't have the tools to extract that case right now.
Get a stuck case remover, I've used the RCBS Stuck Case Remover 2 with my dies, or ones where the decapping stem and expander ball are removed from the top. With the kit, there's a threaded hex nut that will thread onto your stem, allowing you to back out the expander ball from the neck, and remove the stem. The remaining parts of the kit are used to tap out the stuck case. Don't whale on it, just tap-tap-tap-tap-tap until it starts to move, then it'll come on out.
The more expensive kit, does it with a wider variety of die sets
This
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Scope-Mounting-Combo-1-Inch/dp/B002PQKGSI
I got it on sale for $60 I think, the major item though is the in lbs torque wrench and that is normally $50 on its own.
Also, MECHANICAL ENGINEERING AND YOU DIDNT KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LBS AND IN TORQUE?! DUDE! SHAME!
Bianchi Speed Strips
http://www.amazon.com/Bianchi-Speed-Strip-Pair-Caliber/dp/B000JVKLTU
also a lightning deal on the torque wrench with scope bedding kit.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PQKGSI?psc=1 - $62.99
i was tempted to get the scope kit, but most of my scopes are 1 piece mounts so i dont think it is really necessary.
Grab yourself a copy of the ABC's of Reloading (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440213968/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a reloading manual. I like my Lyman 50th (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HH08L1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Looking at two pages in Lyman shows that .308 needs large rifle primers while .223 needs small rifle primers.
I really can't recommend the ABCs book enough. The author lost his hands in an accident, so he's committed to safety, haha. Reading through that will, at the very least, let you know what you don't know.
I got a cheap clay thrower from Amazon: tug the string, then shoot.
I wish I'd bought one of the foot-pedal ones though.
The red dot has an etched reticle, so it works without power. I don't like lower 1/3rd co-witness, and was having trouble finding a sight that I liked that would also absolute co-witness (plus I'm still new to this and dunno how to oper8 as well as some people) so I settled on this.
That is why we should all have the stuck case remover kit
It can be duplicated with a 1/4-20 tap, appropriate drill bit, a 9/16 socket, 1/4-20 x 1-1/2 bolt, and a washer.
Save yourself the headache and be sure to do the following:
Instead of your glove box, think about getting a lock box. I use this, it's more secure than a wafer lock. Plus you can mount the frame in your trunk or elsewhere.
I got one similar, but it comes with a bracket to lock into. That way a thief couldn't just yank on the cable until it broke.
Bulldog Cases Car Safe with Key Lock, Mounting Bracket and Cable in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CGNANG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bldBxbSTT3MX1
buy the magnetic mounts on Amazon.
I use these
https://www.amazon.com/LOCKDOWN-222177-Magnetic-Barrel-Rest/dp/B004RQPM2O
and HOLY SHIT, if you buy today there is a .25 off coupon! Yes, twenty five cents.
Here is where I originally got it, but here it's available. Turns out getting a rifle Ceraokoted is way more expensive than I had imagined, so the tape was a reasonable compromise and has held up for several months without issue (no rust underneath, no peeling, etc).
I use this with some ghillie threading. It is very light and breathable. I also live in California and it works great
I have personally caught a crow in one of these.
You just put some food in the back, the animal steps on the release and you're in business.
For DIY I would suggest a sight pusher.
An amateur using a vice, drift, and hammer could become catastrophic.
Also, you dont need to spend $200. This one works just fine for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DMZDD6V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I personally picked this rear sight pusher up on Amazon. I figured $45 is similar to what I would pay to have a gunsmith install sights and I will be able to do it as much as I need to in the future with it. Really straightforward and easy to not damage your slide. Also need to pick up a 3/16 hex for your front sight for a Glock.
The rifle rests are fixed, and stupid high. I didn't install mine, but instead picked up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/LOCKDOWN-222177-Lockdown-Magnetic-Barrel/dp/B004RQPM2O
It's magnetic, so you can position it wherever you want within the cabinet.
I use RCBS small base 300blk dies. Very happy with them. I used them to convert a ton of 5.56 brass and reload, etc.
I like RCBS and Hornady. RCBS will send you free parts if you ask.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4S9XDW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Have you ever reloaded rifle brass before?
Jesus. I don't keep my pistol in a safe but that's because I don't have kids or pets. Even when my friends come over I put the pistol back in the normal carrying case and toss it under the bed.
I couldn't imagine leaving guns unlocked if I had kids in the house, especially if they were literally autistic. What the fuck.
(For those wondering, all my other guns have cable padlocks on them and are in a locking closet, and the ammo is stored under my bed in a separate room. I don't have a real safe because I don't have a house yet and don't feel like dragging a 300lb rifle safe up flights of stairs every time I move)
I drop oil in the hole and some on the roll pin. Then i use pliars to pinch the end of the roll pin so it starts easier, then I just give it a few good whacks until it can stand in it's own.
Then I use a [Wheeler bench block] (https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-672215-Universal-Bench-Block/dp/B0047WKF84) and support the end of the barrel with a towel or whatever, just so the gas block will sit solidly on the bench block.
Then whack away with some punches...not too hard.
[RCBS small-base sizing and taper crimp seating dies] (http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-300-Blackout-Taper-Crimp/dp/B00B4S9XDW/).
Nb4: "Don't go anywhere that you can't carry!"
By the way, I like bulldog safes better than gunvault. I usually have tools in my vehicle somewhere and I've seen people on youtube break into their sentry safe with a flathead and about 2 minutes. The bulldogs are locked into a mounting bracket (whether you choose to mount it or not) that wraps around the safe, so you turn the key and the safe is released from the case, turn the key again and the safe opens. At the same price as the gunvault, the only thing it costs you is a slight amount of convenience. For me, my $600 gun is worth an extra flick of the wrist. It isn't impenetrable, but it greatly increases the difficulty of breaking in.
Compact: http://www.amazon.com/Bulldog-Mounting-Exterior-2-2-Inch-Interior/dp/B004MC53G8
Larger: http://www.amazon.com/Bulldog-Mounting-Exterior-2-2-Inch-Interior/dp/B005CGNANG
Any recommendations on how to mount this on MLOK?
Edit: Could I get something like this to attach it to my MLOK? Thanks!
Check the model number. It is SPR-200.
Yes, it will xome in handy. Get yourself one of these or better yet the whole kit that comes with lapping bars and everything.
Oh and i forgot the speed loaders. There is three types:
the clip type: https://www.amazon.com/Bianchi-1014010-Speed-Strip-Caliber/dp/B000JVKLTU
(Couldnt find one in ebike so this is just an example)
the regular type:
https://www.evike.com/products/44142/
and the moon type: https://www.evike.com/products/71796/
I cant recommend the regular tho. The one that came with my dan wesson doesent fit the gun properly.
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-50th-Reloading-Handbook-Hardcover/dp/B01HH08L1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504646032&sr=8-1&keywords=reloading+manual
I looked at going with the hand loader as well but honestly, you can find a single stage press for $50 at a gun show and then spend another $60 on a die set which does what you want. I realize money is probably tight but I feel you'll regret "wasting" the money on the hand loader based on what you're saying.
I'd definitely invest in a headspace gauge. It wasn't until I got one that I discovered my die wasn't doing it's job. It all cycled through my Norinco AR15 no problem but still, if you're reloading for multiple guns you'll want brass that is factory sized not fire formed.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001RI7A66/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I believe you're probably talking about one of two things:
1 - A cartridge chamber gauge - This is used to make sure your sized brass will chamber correctly. It checks length, seating, etc. Everyone should have one if they reload. Lyman and Wilson make most of them. This is an example.
2 - A cartridge overall length gauge - Never used one, but I'm referring to the tool used to find out the maximum cartridge length for YOUR rifle. This is to help you with seating a bullet so that it is closer to the rifling, potentially making it more accurate. This really only applies to bolt action or single shot rifles. Someone who has used one can expound more.
The term "headspace gauge" refers to special items used to check the chamber of a barrel is cut correctly, and unless you are changing your barrel on something other than an AR platform rifle or a 10/22 (or a true drop-in barrel on common handguns) you aren't likely to ever need one.
Would something like this work?
Vortex Optics Spitfire AR 1x Prism Scope with DRT (MOA) Reticle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWB2UHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SpN3Ab0QZXW52
And how do you prove that it was unsecured and that the kid didn't get a key or figure out the safe combination was mom's birthday? Do you mandate only AtlasCo Brand Safes with key, combo and biometric locks be used?
Is this secure?
How about this hand forged rectangle of stamped steel?
What about this one? It has "Ultra Strong" right in the name.
"Secure the weapons and make the owners liable if something bad happens" is one of those glib platitudes tossed out by people who put more time into selecting their wacky shirt of the day than they do into real gun control.
I would highly recommend the head space gauge. I use it right after I resize. That way you can sort it before it gets to a complete cartridge. It's much faster than using a caliper and if you are shooting bulk the tolerances are enough to quickly identify a problem without worrying over a thousandth of an inch. I couldn't find many shops around here that actually had them in stock. I went with this. That price is very high and I would look elsewhere.
Basic press kit:
LEE PRECISION Breech Lock Challenger Kit (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ISVWC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bupTDbW2EZCNP
Bullet dies (Lee dies work for .38 and .357):
LEE PRECISION Lee Preciesion 90964, Deluxe 4 Die Carbide Set.38 Special https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8LMX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kKpTDbHJ5Q5QG
Brass cleaner:
Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ 110V Vibratory Case Tumbler for Cleaning and Polishing for Reloading https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MYGLJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SwpTDbNAN79WC
Lead melter:
LEE PRECISION 90021 Melter (Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162UONY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9xpTDbKEE2RX3
Lead Dipper:
LEE PRECISION Lead Ladle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LN12Y4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_izpTDbFM3DPRA
Bullet mold:
LEE PRECISION 358-125-Rf Double Cavity Mold https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OPUDCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XzpTDb5ZD1TQZ
Reloading guide (read the intro a few times):
Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Handbook Hardcover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HH08L1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ABpTDb4HF8JH2
Supplies:
Brass:
https://www.capitalcartridge.com/38-special-brass-s/112.htm
Primers: academy sells cci small pistol primers $4 per 100
Powder: $20 per 1lb at academy do research to find what type you want
Bullets: $30 per 250-300 at academy, I like the horandy frontier lead stuff. Or buy prefluxed lead on the reloading exchange. And melt your own.
Also, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RQPM2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_oofdzbGNZ8Z6H
I got this one for $25 off of Amazon and it works great!
I just looked it up and the shotgun field for you would be $26, and $24 for your son, and then the throwing machine is $35 per hour. I'd recommend getting a cheap hand thrower or something like this before paying that much though.
Here are the rates and hours.
Streamlight railmount 2
The surefire scouts are nice but they're a rip off. I've used both, and have the streamlight on my rifle now. It's 625 lumens and comes with everything needed to mount it to a pic rail with a tape switch. The surefire doesn't come with a switch OR tail cap, they bang you for both of them separately
Pair that with the magpul offset mount which screws directly into the mounting hardware on the streamlight with two screws and mounts directly to your mlok rail and you have an awesome light for $120
https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-88059-ProTac-Railmount-Light/dp/B01AXR8IKS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RU12NG6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479480078&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=magpul+offset+light+mount&dpPl=1&dpID=51ayQkpwmjL&ref=plSrch
Edit: tape switch not rape switch 👀
There are different type of rest, but Lockdown is probably the most secure.
Glad to help a fellow reloader!
Right now, I'm loving my W231. 4.2grns of it behind a plated 115grn bullet is a nice little plinking round. When I'm out of it, thanks to not being able to find powder, I've got Longshot and Titegroup to go to.
Also, you might look into a cartridge gauge. I've got one sitting on my bench and every so often, I plunk a round in, especially if I've changed the bullets I'm using.
Streamlight 88058 ProTac Rail Mount 1 350 Lumen which includes the pressure switch and hardware.
Magpul M-LOK scout mount
Total cost, $107.74
Get a scope install kit with inch-pound driver. Tighten the mount to manufacturer specifications.
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Scope-Mounting-Combo-1-Inch/dp/B002PQKGSI#immersive-view_1558024450666
I am also a huge fan of blue loctite on threads on scope base and rings. I’m sure someone will tell me why I’m wrong to do so.
I'm using a Leupold VX-1 2-7x33mm on my Mini-30, using it for deer hunting in woods/hills (50-100 yard shots at most).
I've only had it one season but it has netted me a deer so far and has been enjoyable to use.
Pros: clear, good low-light, not overpowered (2x is good for close shots, 7x is about the reach of the mini-30)
Cons: Have to really double down on the lock-tight, mount came loose causing me to completely miss my second deer.
If I could Trade: Not really, at least none come to mind. I have a 3x-9x on my .270 and I think it's under-powered for that gun, but for my mini-30 the 2x-7x is comfortable.
I used the Wheeler scope mounting kit for mine, overkill if you are just doing one (local gunshop would be happy to do it) but useful for me as I have several guns and I have a bunch of family and friends who have used it, after your second scope mounting it really pays for itself.
Yep, that will help to see down in the cases. I use this one on my progressive press.
I reload pistol in law turret also, I zipped tied one of these lights to the post of the reloader casting light into the case. That way I can always see into the case easily without straining. Just a little hint. Sucks about your gun, glad your ok.
http://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Light-Strip/dp/B00AU6C4X0
I use this sight pusher. The nice thing with that one is that all the surfaces that touch the gun are plastic, so the chance of it scratching up the finish are pretty low. The pusher you linked to requires toy be very careful not to scratch up your gun and new sights.
Affordable? No problem. Find a reputable cree led flashlight that trns on an 18650 battery.
I bought a red light for night hunting recently.
$19 (varies) - Comunite 501B XM-L T6 600 Lumens Bright LED Flashlight Red Light Torch Tactical FlashLight Lamp+ Gun Mount+ Remote Pressure Switch+ 1 x 18650 Rechargeable Battery+ Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ASQMPNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FUp.ybNF5FACP
$10 - Magpul Industries 3 Slots M-LOK Rail Section Fits M-LOK Hand Guard, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDKO760/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_40p.yb890BKPD
Be a super-cool dad/ex-husband and show them how you roll. Buy them a Stack-On Cabinet for less than $100.00
Alternatively, if money is tight, go with some cable locks as /u/Gun_Defender mentioned earlier in this post.
If you're concerned about your kid (or anyone else's) who visits her home, $100.00 is chump change for piece of mind.
Thanks man. The sling is a Blue Force Gear Vickers "ak" sling and the wrap is this stuff in multicam.
$25 - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0013RA3I8/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2XQABMYLPZXWW&colid=2V7P4VX9VOEAM And it actually worked really well last time
Lyman also makes a set of seating/headspace gauges for the different calibers that are handy to have:
http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Luger-Pistol-Cartridge/dp/B005I0ITGO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
I'd recommend spending the money on a set of Grace USA punches. Bought mine from Amazon and I absolutely love them. I bought these. I also bought this set of Grace roll spring holders. Very useful for starting roll pins. A decent hammer (I have a dedicated brass mallet and a dedicated nylon mallet), and a [bench block]https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-60981-Universal-Bench-Block/dp/B0047WKF84) if you like things to be easy.
I also have a needle file set (don't remember the brand, but they were like $20 for 6-8 of them). For sanding on the internals I generally just use wet/dry sandpaper. Usually start with around 200-grit, and end with 800-grit. For polishing, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a white t-shirt. With enough time, it will give a nice mirror finish and be as smooth as ice.
I suggest picking up a max cartridge gauge for each caliber you're reloading. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005I0ITGO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
It makes verifying your sized cases and final cartridges go much quicker.
It's this guy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PDKO760/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492378846&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mlok+picatinny+rail&dpPl=1&dpID=41TxEQ6JiXL&ref=plSrch
Nah, this hood with thread tied on
I used these long roll pin punches:
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this bench block so I had room to punch the pins the whole way.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047WKF84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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and this is the hammer I used (kinda can see it in the picture)
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Z7GGKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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this is pretty much what you want to put your scope on: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PQKGSI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
For what it is worth I have a Dan Wesson and I don't know what shells use. I assume they're the regular ones.
I've heard the low powered shells are basically the originals with a metal ring in to reduce gas flow and mine do not appear to have that ring inside. You could buy the low powered shells and save yourself the trouble of doing any modding.
BUT
If you're handy with some tools here is the link to a mod to change the FPS.
http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f8/wingun-revolver-mod-72080/
The thread I linked above also lists a guide on how to add hop up to your revolver for better range or at least less drop off.
I did my own variation of the mod which allows me to adjust the tension on the hammer spring so I can increase/decrease how hard the hammer strikes essentially letting me control the FPS.
http://imgur.com/leyjA3v
I poor man's chrono'd it on some Coke Cans. I can adjust it to shoot through the bottom and reduce it to dent it. When I get my hands on a chrono I'll be able to dial it in and mark some lines set lines.
Skirmishablenessability
I've got pretty speed at reloads dumping the shells and retaining them and speed loading new ones in. So it isn't as if a revolver is completely useless.
I've ordered some of these and I'll let you know if they work with Dan Wesson/WG shells.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JVKLTU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Basically practice your reloads, you can get decent at doing them. It is never going to be as good as the 12 shot revolvers or a magazine fed pistol. Magazine fed pistols also have the advantage of a built in adjustable hopup system.
Dies, Primers, Powder, Bullets, Brass!
I use RCBS Dies (Small Base)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4S9XDW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Powder: I find my gun LOVES Win296 19gn for 110g Hornady VMAXX.. I have tried other powders and non perform like this for me. it works great for both the 110's and the Nosler 125's.. I have loaded a few Nosler 150BT's, they were fine too..
Also, Go to Harbor freight and get this..
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html
Then look on Amazon or Ebay for a jig and make your own brass.. That will make your life easy as hell.
I use the Hornady Light Strip and it works well enough for me. I might upgrade to an Inline Fabrication Skylight kit at some point for my Load Master.
They also have a ceiling kit if you don't want to drill the hole for the skylight.
RCBS has $10 rebate for the next few days.
I learned on the 49th: https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-50th-Reloading-Handbook-Hardcover/dp/B01HH08L1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524779822&sr=8-1&keywords=reloading+manual&dpID=411cG6hmfWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
You should buy at least two so you can compare data. Sometimes they will have somewhat different ranges to work with.
This one looks pretty much like the one that I have. There are others on Amazon that are a little cheaper and look like they might be a little bit more refined, like this.
This was an awesome "upgrade" to my Lee press. Hornady Lock N Load Light Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU6C4X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5aAHxbDBAG80Y
Gun safety is important to repeat. No problem. I wasn't aware that there was a bigger issue reloading 40SW.
I've got dies to resize to spec size for my 9mm, and I use these Lyman max cartridge size tools to make sure the brass is to precise spec. If I have to force a round out, it has to be resized. That's why I always run cleaned brass through a resizing/depriming die then take those and run it thorough the lyman tool. I've had a few in each batch that fails the test for 9mm, and I have to run them through again.
Of the 40SW I've collected, most/all have no noticeable bulging. Obviously, I can't tell if they were fired in Glocks or not, but I'll look out for that. Thanks!
I got a Surefire G2X Pro with this tailcap and this mount for the tape switch. So far it's been a solid setup.
Edit: Forgot to mention I mount the light with one of these and a V block & rings
Just do what /u/TwoWheeledTraveler said. Buy a cheap cable lock off Amazon and bring it with you to the store/FFL, show them it, and walk out with your gun. It's a Maryland law that every handgun must leave the shop with a lock.
Actually..if you're buying a brand new g17 directly from your FFL/Glock it will come with a cable lock and you shouldn't have to worry about buying one. If not, just buy this
You'll more than likely never use the thing, at least I dont..it just sits in the box still in the plastic wrapping.
https://www.amazon.com/OxGord-Release-Squirrel-Chipmunks-Professional/dp/B013RKRB9W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469693836&sr=8-2&keywords=cat+traps
Do you have a model number handy?
I'm starting to look for something for my sport II and....options. Options everywhere. Too many options.
And conflicting information.
Here's the Vortex Optics Spitfire AR 1x Prism Scope with DRT (MOA) Reticle
https://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Optics-Spitfire-Prism-Reticle/dp/B01AWB2UHW/
The text says, "Will NOT work with VMX-3T Magnifier"
But...
Frequently bought together:
This item:Vortex Optics Spitfire AR 1x Prism Scope with DRT (MOA) Reticle $249.00
Vortex VMX-3T Magnifier with Flip Mount $163.00
Not that I need a 3T magnifier, but still... at this point I just want to hear someone with a Sport II say, Hey, this is a good starter optic that works well on a Sport II and it should cost between $X and $Y.
Otherwise, I'll still be sitting here trying to make a decision when the feds come around confiscating.
I use the Wheeler Set. I would also suggest the Starter Punch from CGW for the more stubborn pins. If you don't have a bench block I would get one of those too. A universal bench block will work fine but I would get the CZ Bench Block to make things a bit easier.
For polishing, some 600 grit, 1000 grit and 2000 grit sandpaper and some diamond stones from brownells would work just fine. Just follow the guides carefully and don't take too much metal off of the crucial areas.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts ($50 mail-in rebate on this)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8JZL4?psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Small-Base-Die-223/dp/B000N8LIOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495571705&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+223+dies
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495571775&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+calipers
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572110&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman+headspace+gauge
= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.
When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572018&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+bullet+comparator
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-836017-Quick-n-EZ-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572088&sr=1-2&keywords=bullet+puller
This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.
I used this with these threads
Also Scavenger pro, Sleight of Hand pro, marathon pro, ak74u rapid fire was the shit
Multicam wrap or something similar
Parts:
Tom's Tactical Buffer Tube Assembly
Paint is a combination of 3 different Rust-Oleum Camouflage colors
I have an MRO that should be here in a few days for my optic, I'm planning on switching out the J-comp with a Wilson combat 3 prong flash hider. I might eventually switch out the handguard for a MI drop in rail. I would also like to switch out the Moe VG with something shorter if anyone has any suggestions.
Yes or you can just buy 1 single piece of picatinny rail and attach whatever you need. Something like this
Use a cable-type gun lock. Put it around the chin bar of the helmet and around some immovable part of the bike (frame, grab handle, etc.). It won't keep your helmet from getting rained on or pissed in, but the average thief will just steal someone else's helmet.
If you're in the US, locks similar to that one can be had free from your local police department as part of Project Childsafe. You can also get them with a combination instead of a key, but the free ones are always keyed.
I bought them in store but this is the model http://www.amazon.com/Bianchi-Speed-Strip-Pair-Caliber/dp/B000JVKLTU/ref=pd_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0163WREEK6CW4335M1Z2
Magnetic Barrel Rest by Battenfeldtech. Assuming your cabinets are steel on the other side of the carpet. Or you can drill them in for a more permanent fixture.
https://www.amazon.ca/Battenfeld-Tech-Inc-Lockdown-Magnetic/dp/B004RQPM2O
But the gun hangers may be a better solution with the scopes.
First time using this kind of stuff but I liked it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ZTZU1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n0HMDbHXV9AJ7
Bulldog makes some nice gun vaults designed for vehicle use, but would work in this situation as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Bulldog-Cases-Mounting-Bracket-Cable/dp/B005CGNANG
They consist of a metal frame that you can screw into the frame of your vehicle, as well as a removable locking box that can lock into that frame. In the vehicle, the locking box can secure itself inside the frame attached to your vehicle. Away from the vehicle, you can remove the lockbox and use it standalone. My wife and I used a pair of these when we were visiting her parents a few months ago.
OP, I'm kind of confused because it seems painfully obvious to me that you are already aware of what you are going to use for doing this which is essentially anything in .22... duh.
I feel your pain when it comes to dealing with animal control because where I am at, they're not going to help you and they will tell you as much to your face. Where I live they will roll their eyes and say they are not coming out for a cat and in my experience, they are slow to respond to a dog unless it is really threatening and even then if the dog is at risk of injury by them chasing it... they will then leave the area and you have to call them back when you have the dog in your possession. So... you don't have to tell me that animal control is unhelpful.
The only thing I can offer is that some people are unaware of how easy it is to get a hold of live traps. Most people I approached about the problems with pests I have told me to put out poison which I was not about to do or call animal control which I did and got nowhere... then I gave up it never even occurring to me that I could just buy a mess of live traps because that is a thing. I found one at a Goodwill and then it occurred to me that people have live traps so... it must be possible to buy live traps. Hopefully, you give some thought to picking up some live traps and then culling the colony by taking in the animals to animal control where they will be at least marginally more helpful (in my experience).
http://www.harborfreight.com/two-door-live-animal-trap-95117.html
https://www.amazon.com/OxGord-Release-Squirrel-Chipmunks-Professional/dp/B013RKRB9W/ref=sr_1_3