Best industrial hardware according to redditors

You could always glue a neodymium magnet on the bottom of the can and use that to attach it to the roof of your car. That would prevent damaging your car. With 88lb+ of holding force, I doubt the can will go anywhere unless you go through a car wash.

Yeah, something like this is the way to go

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KET1PUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ze8PBbXRWY680

Invest in a set of rollerblade casters and never look back: https://www.amazon.com/Office-Owl-Replacement-Rollerblade-Hardwood/dp/B01KET1PUA/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=chair+casters&qid=1555027098&s=gateway&sr=8-9

ordered.
door alarm

door security guard

hook and eye qty 2

probably more than you need but that means you will have what you need.

Find someone to help someday on reddit or IRL. today you tomorrow me.

Not sure if compatible directly, but these are the bee's knees:

https://smile.amazon.com/Office-Owl-Replacement-Rollerblade-Hardwood/dp/B01KET1PUA/ref=sr_1_4?crid=158OPVDYFQXE1&keywords=rollerblade+casters&qid=1567813930&s=gateway&sprefix=roller+blade+caster%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-4

Ball chain.

check this one out

Best accessory for gaming chair if you have a hard floor.

They make retractable casters

I get that this may already be too late, but have you considered contractor poles?

They take up way less space than tripods and might be cheaper too.

I only found out after ordering a pair of tripods... soo.. anyone wanna buy a pair of unused tripods? 😅

These work well to fix that issue:

https://smile.amazon.com/Lehigh-Group-Crawford-18025-25PK-Locks/dp/B000BQR7BI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499058932&sr=8-1&keywords=pegboard+locks

So do these: https://smile.amazon.com/WallPeg-100-pk-Pegboard-Hooks/dp/B00GSYSI1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499058932&sr=8-3&keywords=pegboard+locks

Also, zip ties.

• Diamond Drill Bits - These are the cheap, but use WD-40 or run water over where you're drilling and they'll last longer. Water 100% needed at least when drilling glass.
  
  
• Box full of Grommets - also lists all the ones in it. It fits most down stems
  
  
• Silicone Sealant - This is what I use as glue. It's industrial grade, and FDA approved as food grade within the temperature range of -70 to +400 degrees. Takes awhile to cure, is a little sloppy and stinky at first, but worth it. Requires a caulk gun.
  
  
• Cheap Downstem/Slide - I got this because it's good for $5 and comes with some rubber. Mine shipped broken, but I made it work. Really big hole so you may need a screen, and it also stays perpendicular to the surface you put it on, no angling it. Don't recommend for beer bottles unless you want to hit it at an angle.

This will make your life so much easier

www.amazon.com/dp/B01KET1PUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kXD8BbV5E1JE7

Yes! Glad to hear I'm not the only one. Tupperware type containers have worked great for me on a number of simple outdoor low voltage projects. I do always make sure to use grommets where the wires pass through though.

What about like a snake wiring track?

I'm thinking like this. That's what Caravans use at the bottom of their sliding doors and they (usually) work for years and years and thousands of opens and closes.

This chick made a power drawer in her Harbor Freight toolbox, she used the snake wiring like I was talking about. You can see a glimpse of it in image 66, but sadly, she doesn't really talk about the wiring much.

Swap out your casters with these. Bam...stability and mobility.

I usually just use an electrical grommet in the size of the drill bit I used for the hole. If you aren't sure of the size, you can get a multi-pack like this and try some until you get a good fit.

https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Hawk-AZGA125-Grommet-Assortment-Electrical/dp/B002X4AFL0

My two tricks: things for doors & lysol wipes.

I use this style of shoe rack and this or this style of hanging rack.

Everything off the floor! It's easy to use them to organize-organize, or easy to just get crap off the floor so that it's not on the floor, and not piled on a countertop or table. When I organize-organize I can use the top row for things I need to keep out of kid hands. I usually make the bottom row or bottom two rows for kids - with toys or clothing they can use on their own. Middle rows for other necessities. I once organized a baby shoe rack this way: Top: Off-limits baby items, medicines, first aid, sharp things. Second & third row: Diapers (with wipes in one pocket). Fourth and fifth rows: Onesies, socks, hats, burp cloths, flannel receiving blankets (I roll everything, usually), or quick things I might want to stuff in the diaper bag when I leave the house. My 10-year-old has one...She's got all the "dangerous" stuff at the top - scissors and glue, and some pointy art tools. Then she sorted all her different art supplies into them by color...and has several pockets dedicated to sorted legos.

The racks...Are just to hang everything up. I even have them on the front door - purses and backpacks mostly with a few hoodies b/c we've had nippy weather occasionally. In my room, I hang my towel on the bottom, but I also hang my jeans and bras so they don't end up on the floor so I can wear them again. In the kids' rooms, pajamas, jeans, and random items that aren't really dirty and could be worn again, but maybe aren't "normal" rotation.

Oh, and I have a basic shelf near the front door - and have several baskets there. I keep a couple of pairs of the kids socks (like a secret stash), as well as their shoes there...I have a basket for "outdoor" stuff (we live in a townhome with a shared yard...and we don't really have room for an outdoor toybox...so the chalk and bubbles and all that comes in at the end of the night)...I have a basket of swimming stuff (b/c we frequently swim at my brother's house) like bathing suits, goggles, sunscreen, etc...I have a basket for library materials that need to go back (we actually just store them all here, so they don't get left in bedrooms)...And then I have an upper shelf with a flashlight, umbrellas, a couple of hats...and some things I need to return to a friend.

And even though I used cloth diapers, and switched our whole house over to reusable products instead of paper napkins and paper towels - I still have cleaning wipes so I can just swipe a few things when it looks like it needs it.

I just find that when I can put things in a place...even if it's not the idea place...having it contained makes it feel less messy.

Here's what I use:

$14 Door Rack off Amazon

I can't close my closet door with it on, but I can hide 6 pairs of pants completely and conveniently out of site.

2" Swivel Caster Wheels with Safety Dual Locking and Polyurethane Foam No Noise Wheels, Heavy Duty - 150 Lbs Per Caster (Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y49D2J2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TcoJDb9W7N141

These 1/4" ones weight about a gram a pop


https://www.amazon.com/Lord-Hodge-1073A-0-Grommet-Kits/dp/B00004Y68Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421110651&sr=8-1&keywords=grommets

They make casters that pop up and down, so that the bench rests on it's legs, but still move them.

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-17000-Workbench-Caster-Pack/dp/B00SX3T2LO/ something like this.

Two I bought, the rest I made.

Clear Polycarbonate Tubing, 5/8" ID, 3/4" OD, 1/16" Wall, 3' Length $9.97 (Prime eligible)

50 Vinyl Grommets 5/16" Bore Diameter 5/8" O.D. $8.99 (no Prime)

9/16" x 3/8" x 3/32" #8 O-rings (optional)

Pipe cutter, and saddle valve for punching, each about $6 from the hardware store.

I can make them for under a buck apiece in materials.

They're badass: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SX3T2LO/

Definitely pricey, but since I spent so little on the rest of the bench, I splurged a bit on hardware.

poles like this would be more compact and space saving

https://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-3HANDCPACK-Contractor-Poles-4-Pack/dp/B00020JO9Q

http://www.amazon.com/Jandorf-Specialty-Hardware-88444-Beaded/dp/B001BYFKP4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1371929376&sr=8-6&keywords=bead+chain

Here you go.

these bad boys

FYI you can get roller blade casters for any office chair. They're universal.

https://www.amazon.com/Office-Chair-Wheels-Owl-Replacement/dp/B01KET1PUA

So true. They even make a tool to remove the pins in 10 seconds per pin or so. Can't recall if we can do Amazon links here but here's one I have that works well for under $15. I'll edit it out just in case:

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Hinge-Pin-Remover-Removes/dp/B00DND4NN6

Exposed hinges are the security equivalent of a screen door.

These things work pretty well.

Excellent start. Highly recommend getting some rising casters to get it off the wheels when you can.

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-17000-Workbench-Caster-Pack/dp/B00SX3T2LO

Gives you a more solid structure than sitting on the wheels :)

This won’t fix your holes but it will remove your need for a mat. Change your caster wheels to something that won’t damage wood and you won’t need a mat.

Office Chair Wheels by Office Owl - for Smart Home Offices, Set of 5 HEAVY DUTY 3" Replacement Rubber Office Chair Casters, Cool Rollerblade Style Casters For Hardwood, NO NEED FOR CHAIR MATS! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KET1PUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rJmOAbZWTXHKD

You should think about either getting tripods or contractor/builders poles instead. Those things are going to vibrate like nobodies business and shake your entire vr world.

If you find the hooks have a problem staying on the pegboard, I've had decent luck using these for my tools: Hook locks
If you search Amazon, or your local Home Depot, there are lots of other options too.

I am not sure where the list is. But I can pull up my amazon shopping and let you know in a minute

Edit: Tubing here
Grommets here
And O-Rings here

No affiliate link

Look at automotive or electrical supplies for a grommet that size. This is Amazon US, but it should give you an idea what I mean:

https://smile.amazon.com/Cal-Hawk-AZGA125-Grommet-Assortment-Electrical/dp/B002X4AFL0/

Another vote for retractable casters. This was the smartest thing I ever did in my shop.

Here's what I used. Little pricey but worth it.

POWERTEC 17000 Workbench Caster Kit (Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SX3T2LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gepIAb2R5WV8Y

Is it the laptop itself or the laptop power cable? If it is the cable you could try a ferrite filter. One type looks like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Gino-UF35B-Inner-Diameter-Ferrite/dp/B007Q94CZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404991890&sr=8-1&keywords=ferrite

Moving the antenna away from the interference is something to try. You might have to get an extension cable and adapter to do this if the cable on the antenna is short.

You could use mini-bungi cords and two nails, one on the lid, and one on the hive body, or something little and un-noticeable, and easy to disconnect. Maybe one of those eye-hook things, like this: They are cheaper than this by far at Lowe's or home depot https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-S750-490-SAFETY-GATE/dp/B00004Z0OS

1.) I would advise not using glue on the table top, but instead screws. Your table top will get dinged up over time. If you glue it, it will be hard to replace the top. But if you use screws. It will just be as easy as removing the screws, remove the top, and screw on the new one.

2.) For your router lift. May look at something like StumpyNubs' Design. This may be more secure than using a scissor jack that your plans call for.

3.) Beef up your legs, 2x4s are fine, but if you place two 2x4s together, than your legs are going to be more sturdy, or switch to just straight up 4x4s. Nevermind, looking at your plans again, I see you have done that.

4.) Look at using plywood that already has a finish on it, like Melamine, this will make the wood coming off the tablesaw, or across the router easier to slide. Otherwise, you will want to wax your outfeed table at least every other month or so, depending on storage and use.

5.) You also want to make sure that you include the ability to use a fence on the router side. Either a custom built one or look at some aftermarket fences.

6.) Make sure to shorten the legs enough so you can add in casters, ideally something like these. It will make moving the bench around easier.

7.) You will want to place runners under your bottom shelf to help support weight.

A lot of swivel casters like that just have an insert attachment. You may be better off trying to pry it out above the part that holds the wheel and replace the whole thing with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Office-Owl-Replacement-Rollerblade-Hardwood/dp/B01KET1PUA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1564964375&refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A3006857011&s=industrial&sr=1-3

Amico

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Black-Plastic-Carrier-Router/dp/B00880AVL2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1394316583&sr=8-5&keywords=cable+chain

P.S. I'm stealing your username for an /r/bandnames submission.

Here you go

http://www.amazon.com/Lord-Hodge-1073A-0-Grommet-Kits/dp/B00004Y68Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371788465&sr=8-1&keywords=grommet

http://www.amazon.com/Jandorf-Specialty-Hardware-88444-Beaded/dp/B001BYFKP4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1371929376&sr=8-6&keywords=bead+chain

Well, if there is a loose connection or a solder pad thats peeled a bit that could be the cause. Its really doubtful it is an EMI issue in all honesty. One thing you can try is to put a ferrite bead on the cable close to the usb connector: http://www.amazon.com/Gino-UF35B-Inner-Diameter-Ferrite/dp/B007Q94CZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411065808&sr=8-1&keywords=ferrite+bead if that doesn't help it is highly unlikely there is an EMI issue.

This was what I used to press the grommets into the fabric, not sure if it's the right size, but I also picked up some threaded hooks from the hardware store and screwed them into a rafter.

Lord & Hodge 1073A-0 Grommet Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y68Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HdSZxbQ4FJ1RC

Last month we moved into a new place that has a 500 sf basement and I am using about 40% of that space to build a workshop for leather craft and woodworking. The space is still a work in progress and a complete disaster, but it is coming along. The space will be shared with storage and a home gym (shoutout to /r/homegym!).

I just finished designing and building this workbench using a 4x8' plywood sheet top. The plywood top is 3/4" thick oak, the bottom shelf is 19/32" OSB (I originally planned on 1/2" but this was actually cheaper), the legs are 4x4s, and the rest of the frame is made of 2x4s. Cutting plus assembly by myself took about 3 hours, 2 beers (only after cutting was completed!), and only one small bruise (unrelated to the beer), though I spent much more time on top of that iterating on the design. My next step is to attach a few vises, tool mounts, some drop down casters, and possibly a thin MDF sacrificial top. If I forgo the sacrificial top I will likely route a bevel along the edges.

This thing is completely overkill for what I intend to use it for, but I like knowing that I could rebuild an engine on it if I wanted (/knew how) to. I can work on a few projects at once and really spread out, which was my ultimate goal for this build. I'll likely build a few more smaller, dedicated benches along the wall for things like a drill press, miter saw, etc. in the next few weeks.

1. Deffo the wires could be loose, check them and make sure they are really solid, with good crimps, heatwrap and anything else that will reinforce them. If you can get some cable wrap and drag chain. I have had plenty of jobs ruined because a cable got pinched in the gantry and skipped steps.
   
   
2. Generally if the firmware is screwed then you won't get any movement at all, so I doubt that is an issue.
   
   
3. Does the motor work if plugged into another driver? again as the motors are pretty much two coils of wire you have to drive a lot of current down them to break them. They will get very hot and generally not work at all.
   
   
   When you say moving "in broken halting steps" that does suggest to me that the motor is working but does not have enough torque to turn. That could be that the wheels are too tight on the makerslide or that the motor is not getting enough current, but only look into that after you are sure the wiring is Aok.
   
   

Ah, you don't want pop rivets, you want grommets. But I suspect that what you ultimately want is something like this, and they come in plenty of colors to boot. The nylon is not really good for grommets, but you could hang the bags on some hooks.

here is a link to the kind I got. I can't be sure it's the exact brand, but if you look at the related products you'll see that there are a bunch that are all basically equal. Just be sure you get the correct stem size.

You can buy roller blade wheels that are direct replacement of the old wheels. Takes 2 minutes to put on and cost about $20 on Amazon. Both my wife and I have em.

Office Chair Wheels By Office Owl for Smart Home Offices, Set of 5 Heavy Duty 3" Replacement Rubber Office Chair Casters, Cool Rollerblade Style Stem Chair Casters for Hardwood,No Need for Chair Mats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KET1PUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xqevCbPRTAHD5

Yes, the rubber washer trick works. I purchased a variety pack of rubber washers from the local big box hardware store for about $10. Get a variety pack because you can hid them under the knobs and obviously each pedal may have different knob sizes. Plus then if a bigger washer is needed or you need to stack multiple sizes you got them.

Most of my pedals I was able to hid the washer under the knobs and you cannot tell the washers are there unless your looking for them. It obviously makes adjusting the knobs more difficult when you want to adjust them, but the knobs won’t move without a good amount of force. If you need a tighter washer on the potentiometer to make the knob tighter, requiring more force to adjust, just stretch the inside hole of the washer out prior to placing them over the potentiometer.

Like this variety pack


Edit: Added link to a similar product

Not bad. I've used a couple of light stands (which suck for getting bumped into/taking up floor space) and mounted them on claims to these babies (which are a bit on the pricey side) and I've gotta say, I like the ease of your solution. Lighthouses are about twice the weight of the heaviest GoPro Hero so you're lucky that the necks don't end up slipping. Guess the ones you picked are rated for heavier weights!

Do you have the necks extended much or are they kind of coiled up in one place to even out weight distribution?

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-17000-Workbench-Caster-Pack/dp/B00SX3T2LO/

There are a ton of options like https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-17000-Workbench-Caster-Pack/dp/B00SX3T2LO that mount on the side of the legs and lift up the bench when needed. That way you don't have to raise the bench up.

Actually I found these, it has 40 of each size. Should do me better

https://www.amazon.com/180-Piece-Rubber-Grommet-Shop-Assortment/dp/B003NRF052/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1503004761&sr=8-8&keywords=rubber+washers

You might be after something like this -- https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-17000-Workbench-Caster-Pack/dp/B00SX3T2LO

yeah. to rotate the blinds youd have to figure out how to drive the center rod in the track(stepper with some sort of interface gear). Or, possibly set it up on a coil cord with a cable running through it, or a cable chain.

To retract the curtains youll have to run your own pullys and cables.

Might be worth it to just replace them with a unit that can be modified(chain and rope on the side). If youre renting, just ask the manager to have maintenance take the existing one down(or take it down yourself and stuff it in a closet).

I modeled the casters roughly after these, so yeah you would have to go around and engage them all before moving the bench.

Basically I think I want a split top and expect that's how i'll set it up at first, but I'm nervous I won't like it, so I thought I'd give myself both options.

I'll make a nice insert tool-holder strip thing and leave it split for a while, then close the gap if its not working for me. It will also be nice to not have a 200lb+ slab top when I move shops.

There is a $2 solution to the problem: A hook 'n eye latch. It's a $4 solution if you want to put one on each side of the door.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-75-0490-Hook-Eyes/dp/B00004Z0OS/

You can get rubber caster wheels that won't leave a mark. Super smooth. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/Office-Owl-Replacement-Rollerblade-Hardwood/dp/B01KET1PUA/

Bona floor polish might work. It's basically a permanent coating that you can apply yourself. Might have to do the whole room for consistency.

Non-mobile: small grommet

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-S750-490-SAFETY-GATE/dp/B00004Z0OS

I've seen lots of strange things happen during HF transmission. This doesn't mean the transmission is biologically dangerous, but it does show that many electronic devices are vulnerable to interference. Audio systems are likely to get some interference as are many microprocessor-operated devices. I have an antenna over the house and use a 100W iCom 7000. It gets into my stereo system (just a little), into my computer mouse (only a wired one, wireless is ok), my automatic outdoor light (it comes on when I transmit), my kitchen radio (a little), an older kitchen TV (CRT with digital adapter).

Sometimes you can cure the problem with ferrite beads on the cables to audio systems, including power cords. These have worked for me: http://www.amazon.com/Gino-UF35B-Inner-Diameter-Ferrite/dp/B007Q94CZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426442564&sr=8-1&keywords=ferrite+beads

Attach them to the bottom of the shelf so they'll hold onto the washer/dryer. These work quite well -- I've used them to attach a broom and mop hanger to the side of my stackable washer and dryer.

I bought my casters on Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SX3T2LO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They seem to hold up very nicely.

I get it. If you use these you won't have that problem.

Also, you can get a lot of options besides hooks. Baskets, prackets, etc.... they're extremely versatile.

Also, talking to a few people I've found that these work well...

Danco #9 O-rings - http://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-9-O-Rings-10-Pack-96722/100299667#.UdRhmvkUrEk

with

Vinyl Grommets - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040D0QKM/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00&tag=r601000010-20

If you have a normal office chair, something like these replacement casters are just the ticket. They're a little grippy like roller-blade wheels and roll nicely when unlocked (much better than the plastic casters you're likely using right now), and when locked they hold tight. The set I bought only had two wheel locks but that's enough to keep your chair from rolling.

This set of 5 would be handy because I wouldn't have to swivel around trying to find the correct two wheels to lock. I mention this because you don't actually need to lock all 5 to get the desired effect, just kick the lock lever on any two wheels and you're not going anywhere.

I still don't have a good solution to temporarily lock the swivel motion on my desk chair.

edit: Figured I should mention - if you're in the US and you are sitting in a chair with swivel casters, it's a near-certainty that they are a standard, replaceable size. You can just pull them hogs out (might need pliers to get them to pop free) and stuff new ones in there.

I bought similar on Amazon when they were prime for $67. They installed easy and seem to hold up well so far. I'm careful and slow when I move my bench around with a lot of weight thought. I'm mostly concerned that one of the wheels will get caught on sawdust or a seam in the concrete and ruin my day.

As far as do they work as you'd expect, yes. It's really easy to use your foot to lift the bench up.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SX3T2LO

I got these casters for my bench and they're the best of both worlds - they retract above the floor when not in use so the bench actually rests just on its legs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SX3T2LO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure if it's the best one but this is the guide that I ended up following for my v2, and it worked fine for me. I did end up drilling a whole on the side of the original panel, since I did not like how the printed replacement looked, but other than that, I pretty much just followed the instructions. If you decide to go the drill route, don't forget to use a rubber ring gasket to prevent fraying of the wires (or pick some up from amazon) .

They sell these that help keep the hooks from falling out.

[This is where its at if you dont feel like gluing a bunch of shit.] (http://www.amazon.com/Crawford-Light-Duty-Peg-Locks/dp/B000BQR7BI)

Thanks! Unfortunately, the magnets I bought before are out of stock. I'm afraid to buy different ones and have the new ones be thicker or less thick than my original ones. The four I'm using work pretty well so I'll just monitor Amazon's stock for the ones I already used and pick up a couple more when they're available again.

I used this thing when I redid all the doors in our house and it worked great. Wouldn't address your pry bar or hammer asks though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DND4NN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6vYvDbYSP0N2N

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-S750-490-SAFETY-GATE/dp/B00004Z0OS

4 dollar solution, lol

What cables are you using, as this is starting to sound like the speakers themselves are accepting the interference.

Are you using 1/4" TRS to same or XLR cables from the UR22 to the speakers?

I wonder if putting an RF Choke on the Laptop power lead and/or Speaker power cables would help.

EDIT: something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Gino-UF35B-Inner-Diameter-Ferrite/dp/B007Q94CZM/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0EKWDFTTPYSZBA8KA6X5

Cal-Hawk AZGA125 Rubber Grommet Assortment Set Electrical Gasket, 125 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X4AFL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k7ldAb0H9Z4AJ

In addition to this, consider a cable guide (typically used in CNC type equipment) for your power and network cables that go to the wall.. https://www.amazon.com/Black-Plastic-Chain-Carrier-Router/dp/B00880AVL2?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Intense cable management, desk decluttering, and these:

Office Chair Wheels By Office Owl for Smart Home Offices, Set of 5 Heavy Duty 3" Replacement Rubber Office Chair Casters, Cool Rollerblade Style Stem Chair Casters for Hardwood,No Need for Chair Mats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KET1PUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_08EmDbKHMYHDG


Edit: also, maybe a new/bigger desk.

I use this but to be honest, it's kind of long and sticks out a bit. This one would probably work as well.

Tornado is a solid brand. They're strong enough to hold them up, and you can kind of spread them out a bit too if they don't quite fit on your trucks.

I’m going to be building a cart for my ender 3 and room for a laptop. I was thinking about using something similar to these caster wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6X2LNB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8uKJDb2CK7YJF

I think it would provide a lower center of gravity and more stability.

Seriously though: Get a set of taller casters (wheels) for your office chair. Something like these raise your chair about (or more than) and inch.

Our team uses a cable carrier for the prismatic part of the arm. It is very clean:

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Plastic-Chain-Carrier-Router/dp/B00880AVL2

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Get you something like this

Then you can buy extra magnets (stronger / cheaper) and put it anywhere you want. They are very secure and convenient.

I used a setup like that in my old work shop. Worked great to hold tools or my phone, etc. while tinkering in the shop.

Insanity is not using cable-chain so you can slide those servers in and out without unplugging everything every time.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Plastic-Chain-Carrier-Router/dp/B00880AVL2

If not for protection, then at least for sound. Plastic casters scraping around on tile... I bought 2 sets of these for my office chairs. Just know that IKEA chairs have a different size! I had to get one for an IKEA chair and one for standard chairs.

You can find casters where you can screw in 3 of the 4 screws without mods but I don't know how well it would hold

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y49D2J2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_M3KYCb4R9P65S

I was planning to do that and if it didn't hold up I'd put a piece of scrap wood to screw in the 4th. But then I realized that the 3 inch raise would be too high for me

They are these :-)

So for a mobile workbench, consider these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SX3T2LO

Otherwise what types of projects are you interested in? Home improvement, cabinetry, furniture, small art items... these help to determine the tools needed, layouts and such.
Environment has a play also. Does it get too cold or hot to work with doors open, ie is ac/heat needed.
You have a nicely dimensioned space and a great start.
A pitfall, don’t focus too much of your time/money on getting the perfect tools, etc. tools typically get added with each project.
If I were to recommend min needed tools... small hand tools like drill, sander, etc. power... minimum is a table saw. You can do without the miter saw if you have a good table saw with a decent enough miter gage.
Is weather is a factor than shop vac at bare minimum and next up would be good dust collection, etc.

I hear ya. I used a set of these (Canadian link) so that it's only on the casters when I'm rolling it around, otherwise it's on its legs. Best of both worlds. They are pricey, though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050PHTLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u2oKDbB4A4BW8

I'm using a 3.2 mm ball chain. I don't know what minimum length is required, but as you can see from my videos the leaping effect gets stronger as it goes, and I would guess that a chain as short as about 10 m would be difficult to see.

This is the exact chain I got, but I doubt it is so very sensitive that you need that chain.

No magnetism is required: there is no magnet in my setup.

My forge is actually raised up from the table on legs, so I just put a piece of sheet metal underneath to stop any burning on the wood and it works great for me. For the wheels on the anvil, I used workbench caster wheels. They have levers on them to raise and lower the bottom surface of the log, so it can be set in position once you want to forge and roll away when you want to pack up. They work really well if you need your smithy to be be put away once you’re done. Here’s the link for the ones I bought-


https://www.amazon.com/SOLEJAZZ-Workbench-Retractable-Capacity-Construction/dp/B07V6X2LNB

Lord & Hodge 1073A-0 Grommet Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y68Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_g6lNzbTXNJ06Z

This is it

Quite expensive though

Powertec Casters! And then I used some non-slip stick-on feet from Amazon as well.

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-17000-Workbench-Caster-Pack/dp/B00SX3T2LO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520105731&sr=8-1&keywords=powertec+casters

that's a good looking moveable bench. how do you like the locking wheel set up? i'm considering that or the raiseable ones.

I have a Printrbot Simple Metal, and I replaced its crappier cable sleeve with a cable chain like all other high-end 3D printers:
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Plastic-Chain-Carrier-Router/dp/B00880AVL2. The Play's sleeve is really nice quality, and all you have to do is route a stiff wire from under the base and up through the sleeve.

I used the 1 inch plug from this set

Banggood has them in their US warehouse, so you shouldn't need to wait for shipping from China.

Also, Amazon has some cheaper, with prime shipping too.

They’re Powertec Workbench Castors

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076WBNPFV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used 4" heavy duty locking casters, they were fine. Another option is retractable casters like these (https://www.amazon.ca/POWERTEC-17000-Workbench-Caster-Pack/dp/B00SX3T2LO) I use them on a workbench and they're great.

Unfortunately, those minimalist tanks are all I have right now. It's really tricky to get the second grommet on if there is already liquid in the tank.

The tanks in the pic are totally simple. I had a few vivi nova shells laying around so I drilled a fill hole in the side, threaded the hole for the smallest screw i had, found those white grommets randomly and a pipe shop, and assembled. It's just a few components- carto, grommets, tank, screw.

To fill and refill, I unscrew the screw, which can be done by hand, luckily. I have a blunt tip needle filler that I use for this. Then I put the screw back in.

I would like to get a nice carto tank here soon, but i have yet to pull the trigger on a certain one. it's a tough choice with so many nice options.

I like being able to have up to a half dozen flavors, each with its own tank, to keep a variety of flavors at my disposal.

If you're interested in building some DIY tanks, polypropylene is popular because it holds up to any juice and won't crack. http://hoopsupplies.com/ is where I got mine. I got clear but they also have a variety of colors. http://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Grommets-Bore-Diameter-O-D/dp/B0040D0QKM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1369408397&sr=8-8&keywords=5%2F8+grommet these are the grommets I purchased. Enough for 50 tanks here.
I went to home depot, got the smallest, shortest screws I could find, which actually weren't all that small, and grabbed a threader from the next isle over. And that's it, other than the cartos. Let me know if you want any info I left out. It's really nice to have the parts around to build unlimited tanks. Like yesterday when I got six new flavors in the mail from Captivape....

When our new "refurbished" hookah had a leak were the main stem screws into the base, we used a small grommet to seal it. Haven't had an issue since.

To answer your initial question though, use the leaking tire method, cover suspected areas with a mix of dawn soap and water, blow through the hose and see if bubbles appear.

Edit: Fixed Link

Here is the desktop version of your link

Cool. Glad to hear that things are going well for you.

One thing I'd suggest is going to a craft store like JoAnn or Michaels and getting metal reinforcements (grommets) for the holes you poke. Here's a decently cheap kit on Amazon.

"Store broke their security tag remover thing..."

Their magnet broke? Yeah, sure it did...

These are the caster wheels I found on amazon all 4 can lock.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y49D2J2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Found a solution, These are recommended by HTC Vive Dev Setup guide

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020JO9Q/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW/

Here is the mobile version of your link

I got a set of the Fastcap poles mentioned in the Vive developer docs. They're not spring-loaded but they're very heavy-duty -- you could probably crack the ceiling if you put it between joists and kept cranking the handle. Two or three of them had issues where they would bind up while trying to extend them, which was mostly resolved by twisting the rod a bit (for example one rod had some scratches that were catching on the mechanism). I suspect the rubber pads will leave marks on carpet and paint if left in position long-term, so I'll probably do something like wrap them in plastic.

The cheap clamp mount mentioned in the docs gets bad reviews on Amazon so I tried a different (also cheap) model and I'm not crazy about that either, so I ordered some RAM arms which are not cheap but I know will be very stable.

Get one of these:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X8F8M3G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1457066972&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=iec+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=412kcaXxeTL&ref=plSrch

Cut the existing plug off your cable, measure the diameter and drill a corresponding size hole in your box maybe a mm bigger than your cable. Put a proper sized grommet on your hole and feed enough cable through. Strip the wires and attach the new IEC connector.

Here is a nice grommet kit in case you need it, but you can always get just one at your local HD.http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NRF052/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457067163&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=assorted+grommets&dpPl=1&dpID=51RYtwcNqKL&ref=plSrch

Can you fit a http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW/ somwhere?

or a http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020JO9Q/

Both are officially recommended by valve, and can be mounted in a million different ways

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00SX3T2LO/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1&th=1

Castors say they're good for 100lbs each. If that doesn't cut it I'll step it up to something large. Gonna try and keep the bench as small as possible. I'm going to build a second top/cover to cover the table saw and the rest of the table. Basically setup for working on the car or messy shit, and lift that off when it's wood working time.

In the Vive Pre setup pdf, they recommend using these support poles with clamp mounts.

Another option would be getting some double sided tape and using it to adhere a couple boards to the wall, then mounting the base stations on the boards. Again - might have an issue with ripping the paint off your walls when you try to move the base stations.

I bought an awesome coat rack on Amazon for $13. It goes right over my bedroom door and I use it to hang certain jackets and all of my scarves! Here it is!

Actually, bizkic just linked these. Dunno what the difference is in quality.