Best industrial lubricants according to redditors

We found 305 Reddit comments discussing the best industrial lubricants. We ranked the 91 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Industrial Lubricants:

u/senorpoop · 26 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

> PB blaster

Allow me to introduce you to Aero Kroil. I used PB Blaster for years, then a machinist friend introduced me to this stuff. You'll never look back.

u/Xuis · 11 pointsr/AskReddit

It's true, that's why you use magic instead.

u/Laser_hole · 10 pointsr/todayilearned

Get a silicone spray lube it will stay forever and work much better.

u/Some_Old_Man_Fishin · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

I had similar problems, and graphite dry lubricant fixed it.

u/MrMarez · 7 pointsr/woodworking

>It all depends on how bad it is. I use my ROS (random orbital sander) with 220 and then follow that with 400 then 00 steel wool.

220 grit seems a bit excessive. If you had a think caked-on layer of iron oxide on the surface... maybe. If it's just a light layer of rust, get some 600 grit and maybe some 1000 grit sanding discs for your orbital. Remember to throughly clean the metal dust with some type of solvent, ie alcohol, acetone, ever-clear (not even joking lol)...


Then... once its squeaky clean, hit it with some protective film. I use and aerosol dispersed Dry Lubricant with Teflon for a SUPER slick finish. You could also use BoeShield T9 witch is another aerosol that will leave a nice dry waxy film. if your not into aerosols, try good 'ol Paste Finishing Wax


Welcome to the WoodWorking Community 😊

u/devsfan1830 · 7 pointsr/prusa3d

For a kit, as I did my first one last year, the biggest tip i can give you is be patient. Assembly will take a long time. Make it a weekend project. Take breaks. Don't work on it while you are tired. You may be able to finish it in a day, but I'd bet there will be mistakes. Mainly those that will cause skewed axes and an un-level bed. The autolevel can only fix so much.

Calipers are also a great tool to have. You can get a decent set of metal, digital calipers for like 20 bucks. Also helps you determine if your x-y frame is square.

As you build the axes, make sure you orient the bearings exactly as in the instructions. The bed and extruder assembly should slide up and down the rods with zero resistance with the belts off. If it binds at any point, your rods are not parallel. Tweak spacing and re-test. Don't do anything else until that is perfect. If you ignore it, at best you get some artifacts in your prints or some excess noise. At worst, you eventually wear down the bearings and belts prematurely.

Also, get sewing machine oil. Not WD40, not grease. Something like this:https://www.amazon.com/3-IN-ONE-Multi-Purpose-Oil-3-oz/dp/B0083V8LPO

Keep the bearings lubricated with that. You dont need the rods wet with oil. Just a drop on each bearing then move them on the rods. Probably once a month. More if you are printing non-stop. The bearings will already be oiled though. So you're ok for a little while out of the box. I used "Super Lube" silicone grease and I'm pretty sure its what ruined my bearings and rods. All grease does is trap dust and debris and causes friction. Combine that with a year of daily use, I ended up gouging grooves into my rods. Prints were ok but the printer got super loud. I also ended up deforming the plastic inner housing of my bearings because my rods were not perfectly parallel. Issues I just fixed last weekend when I rebuilt mine with new rods and bearings. The whole thing slides super cleanly.

After that just be prepared to learn. This isn't always an load and print thing. There will be a lot of trial and error and many, many failures. Every spool of plastic can be different. I've largely been OK with just the Prusa Slic3r presets but on occasion I'll need to fiddle with temperature, fan speed, infill and perimeter settings. Don't be afraid to experiment or seek out advice if you get stuck.

Hope some of this helps. Enjoy!

u/Muzzman1 · 7 pointsr/teslamotors

I had this exact issue

I found out what the service center uses to remedy it. It has been 100% resolved as a result.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLDALQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is the stuff. $20 and it completely stopped squeaking.

In fact, I forgot it ever did until I saw your post @yazheinx

u/coletain · 6 pointsr/shopsmith

I'd do the maintenance routine just to be sure it's ready to roll. Details are in the owners manual. Basically, air compressor and blow out the power head. Light oil on the sheaves in the oil holes, any light oil like 3-in-1 will work but I like zoomspout because you can get down to the lower sheaves without having to take the headstock cover off. Graphite lube on all the controls and threaded components, paste wax on the way tubes, table, quill and any other unpainted parts.

It's not critical immediately, but you probably want to wire cup those bottom tubes at some point to get all the rust off and then paste wax to prevent future rusting.

I'd pick up a Penn State shopsmith adapter for the lathe, and then you can use any standard 1x8tpi lathe chuck. The barracuda 2 is a great kit that covers everything you need for small to mid-size turnings and is much more affordable than a nova or oneway chuck. Pick up a tailstock live center or two if you don't have one. While you are at penn state, pick up the shopsmith compatible pen mandrel if you want to try pen turning.

Shopsmith sells the jacob's chuck you need for the drill press. Used ones are a little cheaper on ebay. You might also want a tailstock drill chuck (or a cheaper one from harbor freight) for the lathe, especially if you fancy trying pen turning.

Make sure you have a power coupler or two, you need them for the bandsaw/jointer.

If you need any parts (bearings, belts, switches, etc) for your shopsmith, try Jacob's Repair Shop before you order from the mothership, he sources parts that are cheaper and higher quality than the stock ones.

u/spiffytheseal · 6 pointsr/MotoUK

This man speaks truth; give it a try.

Once the rust has gone, you will want to put a treatment on top of it to stop it coming back. Whilst tin foil and water will remove the rust, it will not protect the (now damaged) metalwork from getting rusty again. Several routes to go down here; for chromed metal (think suspension forks or chromed mirrors) you can get Autosol. This works a bit like a toothpaste that is buffed in and does protect for a little while. You can then use a lot of ACF50 and work it into the area good and proper, leaving it to dry naturally if on non-engine parts (or go for a ride around the block and bake that stuff on if on the engine).

In my experience, a combination of Autosol and ACF50 works wonders. Basically you want to remove the rust (tin foil), neutralise it as much as you can (Autosol) and then seal it (ACF50) from moisture to stop it coming out again.

u/bob-obob · 6 pointsr/Nerf

I use the solid form of Super Lube, from a tub.

Try it, or don't; I won't care.

u/DuePurchase · 5 pointsr/bicycling

Actually this is wrong. Aluminum is highly corrosive, which is actually a good thing, well mostly. It quickly oxidizes forming a thin "skin" that protects the underlying material from most weather and chemicals.

In the aviation world corrosion is a big concern and we generally deal with it through use of zinc-chromate primers or sometimes plating which has various approaches. You can even use wax if you really want to, think BoeSheild T-9 or ACF-50.

As for why it is good for bicycles. Probably the biggest two factors are low cost and the ease with which it can be extruded, milled and machined into usable shapes for bicycles. All things being equal if I was building a bicycle out of a metal it would be Titanium hands down. If I was building to a price point however, Aluminum wins.

u/CommunistWitchDr · 5 pointsr/Coffee

Ok, I'll try my best to explain here. It's a long and labor intensive process, but there's no thought involved, and nothing to screw up like with some methods.

First, you're going to need a few supplies
-----

  • Spray adhesive, I used Loctite General Performance Lightweight Bonding adhesive

  • Oil for the sanding, I used 3-IN-ONE oil

  • Sandpaper of several grits, I used a bunch of big packs from Lowes, but a multi-pack like this would be ideal

  • Adhesive remover, I used Goo Gone

  • An X-Acto style knife, I used one I just had laying around so sorry no link

  • Some rags to wipe up the metal filled cutting oil

  • Masking tape

  • The thinnest tape you can possibly find

  • A screwdriver for the burr chamber and another for the burrs themselves. I recommend a torque screwdriver for the burrs, but it's not strictly needed.

    Now, for the chamber sanding
    -----

  1. Cut out 6 squares each of the 220 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit, and 800 grit sandpaper that will fit the entire burr on them. If you like shine and don't mind the time it takes, throw some higher grit in there too.

  2. Take the outer burr carrier out of your grinder, remove the spring from it, and set it aside. Then unscrew the inner burr, you'll be attaching the sandpaper to this burr first.

  3. Take one of the squares of your 220 grit and spray the back with spray adhesive then press your inner burr on it. Wait for it to dry. Then cut off the excess sandpaper from the edges and middle leaving only a ring of it.

  4. Tape your inner burr to the outer burr that's still screwed into the burr carrier with masking tape. Work around the standoff post things.

  5. Apply cutting oil to the sandpaper.

  6. Put the assembly of two burrs in the burr chamber (making sure the spring is out of the carrier) and spin it around with gentle pressure. Take it out from time to time to wipe off the oil and metal. Continue until the sandpaper is worn out.

  7. Repeat 3-6 two more times to use 3 discs. You'll need the Goo Gone to clean the burr to attach the next disc.

  8. Repeat steps 3-7 for each size of sandpaper. You should use 3 discs for at least 220 and 320, and can probably go down from there. Those sizes do most of the work and the rest polish.

    Now your chamber is sanded to be perpendicular with the driveshaft. But your carrier does not perfectly match, not yet.

    Now, for the carrier sanding
    -----

  9. Screw your inner burr back into the grinder. If you have a torque screwdriver that is ideal, but at least try to be even. Unscrew the outer burr from the carrier.

  10. Take one of the squares of your 220 grit and spray the back with spray adhesive then press your outer burr on it. Wait for it to dry. Then cut off the excess sandpaper from the edges and middle leaving only a ring of it.

  11. Tape the outer burr, without carrier, to the inner burr. This will be a massive pain in the ass to pull off and you'll need the thinnest tape you can get. The standoff posts will have to go over the tape this time.

  12. Apply cutting oil to the sandpaper.

  13. Put the carrier over the two burrs that are affixed to the chamber, apply gentle pressure and spin it to sand down the carrier. Same way you did with the chamber sanding.

  14. Repeat with multiple grits and multiple discs of each grit the same way you did with the chamber.

    Your carrier now has a parallel surface to your chamber. Which is also perpendicular to the driveshaft! Congratulations, your grinder is aligned the best it can be this side of a machine shop!

    Final steps and notes
    -----

  • Make sure to clean your grinder before using it.

  • Make sure to flush your grinder with at least a few doses of coffee before using it.

  • When you're doing spray adhesive, have it in a box or something to not make a mess.

  • Rubbing alcohol, acetone, dish soap, etc all do nothing on the spray adhesive. You do need the Goo Gone and will have to run out to a hardware store and buy it like I did if you don't try to skip it.

  • If you opt to use any water on your burrs for cleaning, dry it off right away. The SSP burrs are coated, so it's not as bad as if you did it to Ditting burrs, but still dry em.

  • You can repeat the chamber sanding once the carrier is done for a theoretically slightly more perfect surface, but it's not really necessary.
u/hansmoman · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Maybe, but I would try silicone spray. Silicone lubricants are alot better than WD40 which is more of a solvent. It's also safe for rubber & plastics, and has a higher working temperature.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Grade-Silicone-Lubricant-Weight/dp/B00192D0TQ

Side note, I sprayed this stuff on my vinyl window slides on the house and its lasted years.

u/TherianUlf · 5 pointsr/ar15

if you're new and you just want an easy kit:



field manual with pictures if you're really new to AR's something like this is super valuable to have.

Otis Cleaning Kit includes everything you need to clean it.



solvent You probably don't need a solvent on a new rifle but its damn handy to have around. this stuff is for ultra deep cleaning.



Lube Everyone has their favorite Lube, mine is ballistol, you can dump it on pretty much everything, and it makes it work together smoothly



scrapper for when your bolt carrier group gets all fuckered.



EDIT: almost forgot, you're def going to want one of these puppies too, a chamber brush


Cleaning tools usually come down to personal preference, cost, and how effective you can use them to keep your gun rust free and preforming well. I have had a great experience with all the tools i linked, and have used them to keep my AR 15 clean and functioning for a few thousand rounds. I think the largest benefit to this set up is that all these tools will easily fit inside of any range bag.



Have a good one and keep shooting!

u/baby_feet · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Lube every stab, even if you have only basic lubes. Safe to use and available locally (especially auto parts stores) would be super lube or white lithium grease.

u/gearh · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Regular machine (3 in 1) oil will work fine. The area around the hinge does not get that hot.

u/blindtranche · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

I use ACF-50 Anti-Corrosion Lubricant Compound. It works well on my old bike, but I live 10 miles from the salt water.

u/machineintel · 4 pointsr/funny
u/QuiteKid · 4 pointsr/bicycling

I'm a mechanic, this is your best bet. It's oil that foams for a short while after being sprayed so it expands up into the mechanism and cleans it out. I wouldn't use wd-40 as it tends to collect dirt and cause the same problem more than simple oil will.

edit: When the spray out fails the next step is an overnight bath in a gentle solvent. Barring that you'll need a new shifter.

u/openboatgeorgia · 4 pointsr/Rowing

This is the oil I use. C2 has a video covering basic maintenance.

u/Theothercan · 4 pointsr/electrical

You may have luck with an impact screw driver like this, but you may want to start by adding a small amount of penetrating lubricant like this. Safety is a big deal with a panel, so either have the meter removed while you work on it, or be extremely careful while you work. If the money isn't a huge issue it would be worth swaping that federal pacific panel out for something newer and more safe if possible. Best of luck to you.

u/thisonewillsurelybef · 3 pointsr/ft86

Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.

Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457672&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453717&sr=1-1&keywords=last+touch

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457691&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455013&sr=1-2&keywords=supreme+shine

I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!

Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.

An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA

And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.

To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.


For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.

Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.

u/Latimera_ · 3 pointsr/Jeep
u/ar0cketman · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Airbrush light, dry coats of Neolube. It will form a dry film that will lube the joint very well. If the ball is de-greased well, you may be able to simply paint the NeoLube on with the supplied brush.

Alternatively, spray molybdenum disulfide film aka "moly" will probably also work well.

Edit: have you considered placing a machined Teflon ring around the socket to prevent metal to metal contact? Tolerances would have to be held be tight to keep the magnet attraction, but it should work.

You can probably find teflon heat shrink tubing that can be carefully trimmed to tolerance after shrink to fit with a sharp knife or razor blade. Because it is thin wall, it will need periodic replacement, but shouldn't be a show stopper.

u/SeanMoore · 3 pointsr/SteamHeads
u/plumbtree · 3 pointsr/Plumbing

Step 1: aerokroil

Step 2: handle puller

u/SSGTSemperFi · 3 pointsr/airsoft

I second Super Lube.

I do, however, use the silicone compounds on the compression train. Silicone grease is a little bit lighter than the synthetic, leads to less of the "suction" effect.

For high speed setups: Oil

For much more longevity: Grease

A quality white lithium grease works great for the drive train as well.

I suggest avoiding nearly all "airsoft" rebranded grease/oils, they're heavily marked up/ repackaged industrial standards.

u/Nexdeus · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It's not.

Check this out: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045JCFLY

Without risking your CPU, this is the best stuff.

If you are ballsy, you can use liquid metal.

http://www.amazon.com/Coollaboratory-Liquid-Pro-Thermal-Compound/dp/B001PE5XAC

u/Hydropos · 3 pointsr/AskEngineers

>This is directly from the rules manual where it states that 9.0 V is the limit. You can connect batteries in parallel though so that might be of help.

What kind of batteries (and how many) are you currently using? What is the rated voltage of the motors?


> The solution with lubricant doesn't work though because the device is not allowed to leave any kind of residue on the track.

What about a spray coat of some low-friction paint, gloss, or enamel? Perhaps some kind of spray-on teflon that dries onto the craft:

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Non-Stick-Dry-Film-Lubricant/dp/B018FTA5WA

u/Seabass18 · 3 pointsr/guns

Maybe he sprayed them with this before shooting them. /s

u/blumenthal-c · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

What stabilizer lube do I buy? I got confused and ended up buying Super Lube... But it was oil, not grease.

Even specific links to Amazon would be appreciated. I am not good at determining which lube is best despite reading the guides half a dozen times.

Is this "Super lube synthetic grease with PTFE" good enough, for example?

Would it be fine in larger tube form?

How much trouble am I in for using this oil on Cherry and a couple costar stabilizers?

u/heanster · 3 pointsr/therewasanattempt

Haha no. Not lube made for silicone, but lube made from silicone.

u/FF0000it · 3 pointsr/Trackballs

Eww... kinda gross :p.

I use food-grade silicone spray. This is the same stuff I use in my Rubik's cubes, works great. You need a tiny amount, like the teensiest drop. Usually I'll spray into a tissue and then barely dab a little on the ball - roll several times, and you're good for awhile.

u/Shadowtek · 3 pointsr/retrogaming

Cleaning carts -

  • 91% or higher Rubbing Alcohol and Q-tips. I'd recommend actual Q-tips, I've used various other brands and off brand ones and they either don't have enough on the tips, pull off too easily and leave tiny hairs all over the pins, or just snap too easy when im pressing down hard.

  • Pink rubber eraser. The kind you always had in school and probably never used, when the alcohol doesn't cut it this is a life saver. https://www.amazon.com/Paper-Mate-Pearl-Erasers-Medium/dp/B00006IFAR/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504274728&sr=8-3&keywords=rubber+eraser

  • Fine/Very Fine Sandpaper (this is your absolute last resort)

  • Some people also use a metal polish like brasso, I haven't done that much but supposedly it works really well too.

    Cleaning process the progression goes like this for me. 91% or higher alcohol and qtip, if that doesn't work pink rubber eraser, then alcohol and qtip again, if that doesn't work, do it again, if it still doesn't work look for a problem area/spot and try to focus on it with the eraser. If it still doesn't work Extra fine sandpaper very targeted on just the problem spot. BE WARNED THE SANDPAPER CAN DAMAGE IT, so be careful not to "gash" the pins.


    Otherwise I got a tri-wing kit from Amazon, the 3.8 and 4.5 bits and I have a magnetic screwdriver that will take the bits. Also a long thin phillips head screw driver.

    Cleaning System Connectors:

  • Electrical contact cleaner like this comes in handy for cleaning the connectors inside systems.
    https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Plastic-Contact-Cleaner-Aerosol/dp/B000BXKZVA

  • Credit card and white cotton tshirt or similar. Dump a little 91% on it and then insert into the system pin connectors. Also the old school cleaning kits out there work fairly well too.


    Also I've needed electrical tape on several occassions especially if you plan on doing any modding.
u/CastIronKid · 3 pointsr/castiron

Another product is Kroil, tapping lightly on the end of the handle with a hammer can help shake it loose, heating and cooling in the oven can also help.

u/proto_hyped · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

These are just a few I'd recommend, but definitely do your research and see which one is best for your needs.

Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut

IC Diamond 7 Carat

Coollaboratory Liquid Pro

u/urmthrshldknw · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

I've had pretty good luck with similar types of equipment using a combination of compressed air and plastic safe contact cleaner like:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Plastic-Contact-Cleaner-Aerosol/dp/B000BXKZVA

What I've done is use the little red hose attachments and shoot contact cleaner around the edge of each button then rapidly press the button a bunch of times to lossen up the gunk and then shoot it with the compressed air. I don't know for sure what kind of buttons are on this thing, but if they are clicky when you press them there is a good chance it'll work.

u/natermer · 3 pointsr/ebikes

Premium eMTB bikes using motors like the Bosch and Yamaha are probably the most water resistant. I expect that manufacturer information will provide very accurate information about water resistance.

If they have issues about water damage they are not going to admit it, but if you look through their warranty information and see they have exceptions about water damage then it's a safe bet they know they have some issues. That's just how these sorts of things work.

More affordable ebikes like the Sondors or Crosscurrent or things of that nature are just going to be using the same sort of Chinese parts that you can get with DIY... it's just that they pick some of the better quality stuff. Check out their warranty information and see if you can find exceptions regarding water damage.

------------------------------

For DIY bikes and hub motors... Most of the time people buy the cheaper stuff that isn't really water proof. It has to do with tolerances and such things.

For example:

When motors get used they heat up and the air inside of them expands. It gets pushed out through the wires and cracks in the gaskets and such things. When they cool down then the pull air back into them. If the air is very moist then it will draw that moisture back into the motors. The air cools further in the evening, the water condenses and turns into droplets.

After a few months in very wet climates they can develop a small puddle inside of them. The steel used for magnetic steel on the rotors is particularly vulnerable to rust.

When steel rusts it expands it' original size by 7x or 10x and the rust jamming up the motor is likely the most common killer of direct drive motors outside of accidents.

People try all sorts of things to make things water proof, but often make it kinda worse. Like trying to use excess amounts of silicon to seal controllers or replace motor gaskets.

Often it's better make it easy for water to drain out of electronics then it is to try to seal it up. If you go and look at outdoor electrical enclosures quite often they put weeping holes on them to allow water to easily escape rather then trying to make them permanently water proof.


But because it's all DIY you can still put extra effort into it and make things extremely water proof. Not enough to throw the bike into the ocean for a week... but it certainly can easily withstand a few years of being outdoors 24/7 if you want.

------

Some tips:

  • A simplest approach is to use dielectric grease on plugs and such.

  • Motors and controllers that use HiGO connections are less likely to experience issues with water and are a sign of higher quality.

  • Many type of frame-mounted battery packs can experience damaging corrosion on the battery contacts. The contacts use copper and such things, which tarnishes and builds up corrosion easily. Using water proofing spray like ACF-50 will keep them looking brand-new for years.


    and a few other things like that. Check out endless-sphere for tips.

    And of course there are people that take things to the extreme. Especially people that want to ride their bikes through streams and such. You can take apart a direct drive motor and spray anti-corrosion spray on it, for example. If you take apart the controller and spray conformal coating and make sure there is ways for water to escape at the lowest point in the mounted controller will make it so it can operate under water. Most of that stuff shouldn't be necessary unless you live in some seriously wet place, like parts of India or something like that.
u/epicrepairtime · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

That is also my general understanding of how to ventilate.

If your winter temps don't drop below freezing, I believe you can vent year around (someone please correct me if I'm wrong here), but closing off the vents in cold weather doesn't just protect your pipes, it helps cut down on your heating bill a tad (but probably not by much really since the R value of a foundation is fairly low).

As far as getting your current vents to work, I have used liquid wrench penetrating oil and achieved great results and I haven't tried it but have heard great things about Kroil.

In your case, I think that you REALLY need to get down a vapor barrier under your house--that will cut down on the stale smell, and I am pretty sure it also reduces exposure to radon (if you are at any risk).

This video does a good job of showing a well executed install of vapor barrier.

u/ElevenSquared · 2 pointsr/DIY

My house was built in 2001, so I'm guessing somewhere around then.

Something like this maybe?

u/stvhwrd · 2 pointsr/Fixxit

Thanks! You'd recommend just a single application of this stuff? Is there anywhere else in particular that ACF50 comes in handy, to justify buying a can?

u/scloutkst2889 · 2 pointsr/CrappyDesign

So when I discovered pb blaster, it was amazing. Stuff worked so much better than the other products I used. Then I got into the trades and a couple of the old timers swore by a product called Aero Kroil. I refuse to use anything else now. Literally works 20x better than pb blaster. Stuff is amazing. I have never had it fail to break anything loose.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA

Also they make Sili Kroil which adds a silicon type lubricant, which works 10,000 times better than WD40 for lubricating.

http://www.amazon.com/SiliKroil-Penetrating-Solvent-aerosol-SILIKROIL/dp/B0003041WK

u/Freekmagnet · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

There is a penetrant you can buy called Aerokroil that Ford recommends specifically for removal of stuck spark plugs. It is recommeded by name in the factory training video for removal of the 3 piece spark plugs that get stuck in the triton engines. This stuff is amazing.
Before you break it off, get a can of this and let it soak in for an hour or so. The plug will probably come right out.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393988347&sr=8-1&keywords=aerokroil

u/lucw · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I use 3 in 1 machine oil from home depot. Works well.

http://www.amazon.com/3-IN-ONE-10038-Multi-Purpose-Oil-Pack/dp/B00065VGWK

u/theimmc · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I don't know what's best, but this works: https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Krytox-GPL205-Grease-Additives/dp/B00NRPXDOK

How to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWgrnQGBBn4

ripster wrote a guide with lube recommendations halfway down the album: http://imgur.com/a/nsEDr/

u/1832jsh · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Here you go: www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN5PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jVNoDbZ0VE416

u/InspirationNeeded · 2 pointsr/BabyBumps

I wouldn't recommend WD-40, it attracts dirt and can lead to more problems sooner, it was originally a polish. I'd recommend a lubricant, like 3 in 1 Household Oil, or a silicone lubricant.

u/myself248 · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Kroil.

I've won bets with a can of Kroil and a Knipex Cobra.

u/Pete_9 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

I use pure silicone oil for o rings (like this). Some silicone sprays can contain ingredients that will, over time, degrade the rubber o rings. That’s almost certainly not your issue because it takes a while to happen. With your Umarex mag, if you use thread tape and oil the o ring and it still leaks, then you likely need a new valve. If this is a new gun, they should replace it for free - sounds like a manufacturing defect. If not, intake valves are inexpensive (here’s a guarder valve for $11).

u/johnboyjr29 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Have not used it my self but I hear this is great for printers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083R1FME/?ref=exp_influencer20170928569_lv_dp_vv_mw

u/FlakTheMighty · 2 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

Was it Liquid Pro by chance?

u/Nasaku7 · 2 pointsr/overclocking

This one has always been very high at reviews.
It is liquid metal so don't use it on aluminium!
I use it on my i7 950 @ 4.0 Ghz with a thermalright true spirit 140 power and it reaches 60°C under full load.

u/PuterPro · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

@smaxsomeass - VERY Nice Write-up! Thanks, I'll use this when I switch to glass. Too many problems with the Buildtak.

I have the MP Select V2 version, bought for Xmas ... :-)
I replaced the Y bearings with longer ones. When I pulled the short ones off I found 2 of the 4 were totally crap; noisy and rough. (On mine the X axis already had longer ones and they were smooth)

I used these from BangGood.com:
http://www.banggood.com/LM8LUU-8mm-Long-Type-Linear-Motion-Ball-Bearing-Slide-Bushing-CNC-Part-p-994394.html?rmmds=search

These are less than $2 US DELIVERED! Quality was excellent. I ordered 6, only 1 was SLIGHTLY noisy, but smoothed out right away. Can't beat it for the price.

They (banggood) have MANY 3D and R/C parts and tools.
Shipping was pretty fast, got my order in 7 days, not bad for free.
They also have a several great Temp guns; for $5 more than Harbor Freight's, greater range, better accuracy, and a color screen! This one: http://www.banggood.com/MUSTOOL-MT6550-Digital-LCD-Color-Display-Non-contact-Infrared-Laser-Themometer-Temperature-Gun-p-1080656.html?rmmds=search

As far as oil vs grease. I did use grease at first (VERY sparing!) but later found that oil is preferred, especially for the Z Axis screw gear, since grease will attach and hold dust!

Liberty Oil is my go-to oil, found after MANY hours of light oil & grease research while repairing a grandfather clock. Best all purpose oil there is, WAY better than Super Lube (which I used for years before my research...)!
http://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Synthetic-Lubricating-Grandfather-Clocks/dp/B00AZMGFI4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486501241&sr=8-1&keywords=liberty+oil

BTW - The most awesome grease for general duty light greasing is DuPont Krytox GPL 205 Grease:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLDALQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's bloody expensive, but worth every penny, you'll want to have it's babies. LOL! Doesn't attack plastics and doesn't attract dust. High temps too. A-MAZ-ZING stuff. The GPL 207 is pretty good too and is stable out to 288° C

All the Best, PuterPro

u/derkapitan · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Take the card out of the case, and have a good look at how to fans are attached to the heatsink, there should be a way to get the fans off. You'll most likely need a control screw driver to remove the tiny screws mounting the GPU fans to the heatsink.

Once the fans are off, there should be a sticker on the back side of the fan motor. This doubles as the back cover and seal of the motor of itself. Peel it off and you will see a bearing(most likely sleeve bearing instead of ball, Cheapo-depot) with a small portion of the fan shaft protruding through it. It will be held in place by a small round plastic retaining clip. Put a small drop of oil on the bearing under the retaining clip(don't go crazy or it will fly everywhere when you turn the fan on) I use stuff like 3-in-one and spin it by hand. Put the sticker back on, if it got oil on it and won't stick properly just and a tiny amount of super glue and hold it until dry.

There are many types of fans on gpus, some will come apart how I described, some will be a low profile two piece fan with a solid back that you have to pull apart. I'm not going to describe it, I'm dumb and should just link a guide

Technically if the fans noisy, the bearing is most likely shot. However I've had numerous fans run for a very long time(still are in fact) without noise just by using this method.

edit: Screwdriver set I don't own personally but will definitely work

u/beanbrownie · 2 pointsr/Honda

WD-40 is not really made for anything but loosening stuck things, once it evaporates it no longer lubricates very well.

Try a lock deicer if its is for sure frozen or use a dry graphite spray in the lock after the WD-40 to keep it nice and free.

WD-40 loosens really well but isn't a lasting effect. Spray graphite doesn't loosen well but lasts. They are a perfect compliment to each other.

u/RickDeckard_ · 2 pointsr/Trackballs

This is an excellent dry film PTFE spray-on lubricant. It should be applied to a swab of some sort then applied, while still wet on the swab, to the bearings and guides in your trackball socket. . . Being CAREFUL not to get any on your optical sensor!!!!! (You have been warned!) Then replace your ball and work the bearings by moving the ball around. This lube turns into a dry film that repels dirt and grit, is safe for plastic, is pretty cheap, and has the lowest friction coefficient of any material that is readily available to your average redditor!

u/rogueprogram · 2 pointsr/motorcycles
u/mrjohnk · 2 pointsr/Tivo

DuPont Teflon Silicone Lubricant Aerosol Spray, 14-Ounce. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3ZKVAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_CNa.BbVK45XGQ

u/siamonsez · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

It's just the name of the oil, like this, you should be able to get it or something similar most places.

Put it wherever you can get to, let it soak in a bit, add some more, wrench on it a bit...

u/Timbo1986 · 2 pointsr/Jeep

WD-40 is a terrible penetrating lubricant. He'll want to use something like PB Blaster or AeroKroil. WD-40 was designed for water displacement, not lubrication, and it doesn't penetrate much at all.

u/niloc · 2 pointsr/Tools

Are you maybe looking for something like 3-in-one oil?

If so here it is on Amazon.

u/RandomRedditReader · 2 pointsr/3DS

Aside from giving it a good cleaning, you want a silicone based grease for electronics. I use this.
http://www.amazon.com/EliteKeyboards-MechLube-Premium-Keyboard-Lubricant/dp/B00CZIZBTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421331672&sr=8-1&keywords=EK+MEchlube

Works great on everything. I use it on my game controllers all the time. You're still going to want to clean it out, eventually over time the grease will pickup hair, skin and dirt particles until it becomes very gunked up and gets worse. But since it's a grease you can localize it to one area and it doesn't drip everywhere. There's also various silicone or PTFE sprays but I don't know how I feel about spraying that stuff all over electronics, eventually you'll get deposits in areas you don't want.

You could also try a drop of Break Free CLP, I don't know how that affects electronics but I don't think it could hurt, might want a second opinion.

u/escape_your_destiny · 2 pointsr/Tools

I use either LPS-2 or ACF-50, only because that's what we use on our aircraft, and that's where my tools are. Also, I think they smell nice.

I'd say LPS-2 lubricates better, but ACF-50 has better long term corrosion protection. But any lube is better than no lube, even 3-1 oil.

u/vertigoelation · 2 pointsr/guns

Kroil: http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420942400&sr=8-1&keywords=kroil

I recently did an accidental long term storage test on my guns. I didn't have nearly the same amount of rust you do but... /u/moveman61 recommend Kroil to me. It worked wonders.

Steps:
Strip 870 (stock included)
Spray Kroil on affected areas
Let sit for 10-15 min
Use brass brush
Wipe clean

From here you have 1 of 2 choices

A: Apply oil to prevent future rust
B: degrease and paint it

In the past I have used black spray paint that is meant to go on grills. Its a cheap (bubba) solution compared to more expensive paints and it has worked quite nicely for me in the past. I wouldn't use this method on a nicer gun but for the standard black 870 it works great. If you're worried about matching colors just go ahead and clean/paint the barrel as well. As long as you do a decent spray job nobody will even notice. I even had one guy ask me how I kept the finish so nice over the years. It took him a second to realize there was paint on it.

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 2 pointsr/motorcycle

Here are some of my personal supplies and tool recommendations.

An anti-corrosive spray, doesn’t hurt paint but I’d be careful about yours anyway.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1C8UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5v0NDb496VPF6

A good tire pressure gauge. www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DLGU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dy0NDb58BP0WX

A basic multimeter. www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

A great battery tender, a lifetime purchase. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

A very good spray on bike cleaner. www.amazon.com/dp/B0036GK83Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XB0NDbJZZC76W

A good explanation about testing your battery and charging system, goes well with the multimeter and tender.

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

These screwdrivers or ones like it are a must. www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_kBB7AbGCN238A

A winter storage checklist, very detailed, and can probably pare it down a little but...

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

The best (IMO) winter gas treatment. www.amazon.com/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ryNKDb9RRE8KF

One of many easy to use lift, works for both front or rear, may have a model for a smaller bike, this is for my Yamaha Raider www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z01QYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UH0NDbVMTEC9K

A great totally enclosed cover, find the size for your bike. I attach the battery tender, the cord comes out where the zipper meets.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001I7XYZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sJ0NDbTJAPEEB

For maintenance questions, a great sub is r/Fixxit.

That’s all I can think of at the moment, welcome to the Club and Happy Trails!

u/fishingfreak00 · 2 pointsr/lasercutting

Cermark is fairly expensive though ($100 per spray can) so I buy this version which is about half the price last time I checked. Some people even have success with dirt cheap moly lube such as this

u/Sippinonjoy · 2 pointsr/airsoft

So this one?

u/AristotlesCanine · 2 pointsr/Tools

I use this traditional 3 in 1 oil on my tools and I'm extremely happy with the results.

Just put some on a cloth and wipe the tools down rigorously.

u/Rob27shred · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

All in all the board doesn't look to bad for the price IMHO. Get a cheap set of thick (1.5mm) PBT caps (NPKC is well regarded by community for these), lube the stabs (SuperLube is a great grease for this, although you'll only need a quarter of one of the tubes in the link for a whole KB), & I bet the board will feel pretty decent!

u/LaPoderosa · 2 pointsr/knives

I bought a knife for 2 bucks that was a little less rusted then that, but still very rusty. Don't forcefully open it, but if it opens without too much effort that's ok. Before opening or trying anything soak it in WD40. If you have a type of penetrating oil (like Kroil) that would be good too. Once the WD40 has gotten as much rust off as it can, you will want to take some kind of metal brush too the blade. If you have a wire brush and a drill, you can carefully try that too (just on the really bad parts). Once you've gotten it down to where you can see more metal then rust, take some #000 steel wool and some WD40 and get to work. As for the handle, I would suggest starting off with #000 or even #0000 steel wool as it is really fine and can remove the lighter rust with ease. Once you've got it de-rusted take some metal polish and a towel and get rubbing. If that isn't working fast enough, take some of the #0000 steel wool and use the metal polish with that. At this point you should have a pretty shiny knife, but there will likely still be dips in the knife with rust in them. Not a whole lot you can do about that, but hopefully the worse of it won't be on the blade (or edge of the blade). At this point you will want to clean the knife with isp alcohol to make sure no wd40 or polish is left on the knife, and then go ahead and sharpen it.

u/Loves-The-Skooma · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

You can get silicone lube as an aresol or as a gel like petroleum jelly

u/razdrazchelloveck · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Food grade silicone.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Industries-03040-Grade-Silicone/dp/B00192D0TQ[1]

Some restaurants use this stuff to keep meat slicers lubed up.

u/Captain_BedBeard · 2 pointsr/electricians

Aeokroil is the best I've ever used

u/zoobius · 2 pointsr/Harley
u/funnythebunny · 2 pointsr/DIY

I use ACF-50 to keep all bare metals from corroding at work and at home.

u/System-Crash · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Supposedly This is the best over the counter penetrating oil you can buy. I've never used it. I personally use This.

u/jacobriek · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I actually just got a batch of superlube from this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KU85W4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I thought it was too thick to use for switches?

u/mike413 · 2 pointsr/Tools

I searched amazon for thermark and came up with this spray which someone says he used as a substitute for laser marking. $10

u/chrisbrl88 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

WD-40 is great for a lot of things, but lubrication is not one of them. Use garage door lube or graphite.

You should wipe off any WD-40 you sprayed on there before applying anything else. It'll break down almost any other lubricant you spray on there (a quality that makes it great for getting oil stains out of the driveway, but lousy on moving parts) except graphite or silicone.

u/Voxel__ · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/cincigp · 1 pointr/tifu

Kroil is much better than PB Blaster. Get a can and use it sparingly. https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518798021&sr=8-1&keywords=aerokroil

A good quality ratchet can be better than a cheap breaker bar at times. However, a good breaker bar is a very valuable tool. Also in this case, the proper tool would have been a crows foot and a breaker bar. You don't need crows feet very often, but when you need them you need them, and they really aren't too expensive.

u/siinistre123 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi, I bought a TADA68 and was thinking of lubing it. I dont wanna spend nuts amounts of money on lube; would this work? https://www.amazon.com/EliteKeyboards-MechLube-Premium-Keyboard-Lubricant/dp/B00CZIZBTK/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1524789018&sr=1-1&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+lube
For lubing, im just gonna press the key down and lube the insides like that. That's okay, right?

u/JaYHiN456 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

What if I just bought this with HyperX Keycaps and the creams? I want PBT caps. https://www.amazon.com/Independent-Mechanical-Keyboard-Plastic-Aluminum/dp/B07JVMBMNK

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JDVG4RQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLDALQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://novelkeys.xyz/products/novelkeys-cream-switches?variant=15400236777565

Also, how would I bind the other keys that I'm missing, for example with the Fn key like on Anne Pros and Ducky's, all the keys have secondary actions. How would I be able to do that so I still "have" the other keys sincet this isnt a TKL chipset?

u/salberini · 1 pointr/MouseReview

Watch this

Time to get your hands dirty!! I'd open the top shell and clean the contact points for lmb and rmb with some isopropyl alcohol - make sure you get both the clear-ish looking switches and the plastic contact points on the top shell. The only thing that could be going wrong is between these two simple mechanics.

If you're still unhappy after cleaning, you could grab some thick Krytox grease like this and apply the tiniest amount to the contact points. I've used this stuff for scroll-wheels and switches that didn't feel right and it seems to do the trick every time. The grease is meant to be used between friction points that are consistently rubbing on eachother, and it'll stay lubricated for like 500 years lol.

u/braxtonjames · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi everyone! I have a few questions about a few different things.

  1. I recently purchased a Salmon on Ice v2 keyboard (Whitefox PCB) as my first dive into custom boards, and though it sounds pleasant when typed with, it requires a huge amount of force to actuate when compared to the standard Brown or Red switch. I currently have an Akko 3068 and Varmilo VB87m (both with Brown switches) and both are so much easier to game/type on for extended periods of time. I wanted to lube the switches to see if that would help, so I bought this lube but I'm honestly terrified about taking the board apart since I spent ~$240 on it. I also tried some O-Rings, but they didn't seem to help much. Any suggestions or advice would be incredibly appreciated.
  2. I am also looking to get my girlfriend a board, and she wants something similar to GMK Samurai or GMK Bento keycaps; basically anything with secondary Japanese characters on the caps. Those probably go for ~150-200 for the set, so something cheaper with similar aesthetics is what I'm looking for. She wants a white casing, so I was going to go with this with some nice keycaps. Any recommendations on a cheaper/similar version of those keycaps, as well as maybe a better (or wireless) 65%/TKL base to use!

    Sorry if it was a wall of text/unclear, but any help would be greatly appreciated :) I can answer any clarifying questions relatively quickly.
u/Gui0312 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

When you say 205g0 is that the same as the Krytox 205 from amazon ? I don’t see it shows the “g0”
Krytox GPL 205 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7H.vDbCMAYZNS

u/lithiumsix · 1 pointr/airsoft

As someone who picked up a Daytona around November 2013 I've quickly learned the following:

How to Rhop - Daytonas have a proprietary hopup and bucking so any hopup mods are DIY. Buy spare hopup buckings from Tony.

Lubricant - Accept no substitute. Easy to apply before and after a full day of plastic slinging.

Take it apart and identify all the O rings, check them periodically. They will be the first thing to go out if you don't maintain it.

I also use rust protection gun oil and linseed oil on my externals to keep them protected from the elements.

u/BlorfMonger · 1 pointr/motorcycles

My experience with chinese motorcycles is if taken care of properly the engine usually runs OK, but everything else will rust to shit very fast due to the poor quality metal.

OP, I highly recommend you pick up some ACF-50 and give the bike a good rubdown with it. It is used in the aircraft industry to prevent rust, and has been used on motorcycles. I live in a rainy humid environment and I use it on my honda.

https://www.amazon.com/ACF-50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant-Compound-Aerosol/dp/B000P1C8UO

u/minizanz · 1 pointr/subaru

it is like a lube but not
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Copper-Anti-Seize-degrees-Temperature/dp/B000LDDOXG?ie=UTF8&keywords=copper%20antisease&qid=1463879334&ref_=sr_1_sc_2&sr=8-2-spell

you put a little on the threaded end of the bolt and it makes sure any defects in the thread wont grab the bolt, but at the same time it will not add to the the threads slipping, will make sure you get an accurate torque reading (if you need that,) and helps make sure they do not get corroded and stuck if you have to take them off.

u/the_crx · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Usually graphite lube comes in a little tube like this. http://www.mrlock.com/image/cache/data/ic/items/23065-500x500.jpg. Orielleys or Napa should carry it. Another one that I've used is http://www.amazon.com/3-IN-ONE-Multi-Purpose-Oil-3-oz/dp/B0083V8LPO. It might be easier to find. But with either one just remember that a little goes a long way.

u/Commander_Spongebob · 1 pointr/techsupportgore
u/FesteringNeonDistrac · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop
u/ranhalt · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I walked into a server room and thought we had a lot of diabetics working for us.

https://www.amazon.com/Coollaboratory-Liquid-Pro-Thermal-Compound/dp/B001PE5XAC

u/Robot_Beep_Boop · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Sure:

SINGER 2131E All Purpose Machine Oil, 4-Fluid Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YZ1Y06

3-IN-ONE 10038 Multi-Purpose Oil 8 oz (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065VGWK

u/hatcod · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Don't use WD-40, it's not meant to be used as a lubricant long term. Look for a machine oil for use in lubricating.

https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-10038-Multi-Purpose-Pack/dp/B0083V8MAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483556998&sr=8-1&keywords=machine+oil

I imagine this would work fine.

u/PedroDaGr8 · 1 pointr/Kitchenaid

I am unfamiliar with that specific brand of part and whether it is legit or a knockoff (an issue on Amazon) but I've used this grease with much success. In general, you want a grease rated for food use. Just in case something happens and a bit gets in your food.

u/Twistthrottleemotion · 1 pointr/smallengines

Get yourself some Kano Kroil from Amazon and spray it down liberally. Wait 24 hours and then try to take the bolt off. I use said spray consistently at work to free up bolts that have rusted solid on 2000° boilers. It is worth every penny.

Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rQ.IDb8RWT79K

u/turnturn1225 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

That's what I was thinking, wasn't sure if it was any different than the ones on other keeb sites though.

Edit: Would this work?

u/LJay_sauz · 1 pointr/Throwers

I've heard that the bitterant used in acetone can leave minuscule amounts of powder inside of the bearing, leading to worse performance over time after continued cleanings. I'm not actually sure how true this is, but I figure its worth mentioning.

Personally I use a can of this stuff and it works really well. It's a bit expensive, however. Acetone would be way more economical.

u/Infinity_z · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

So stuff like this? Also, how do you apply grease/lubricant to the bearings? The rails/worm gear I’m assuming it’s directly applied, then the axis is moved up/down/left/right to apply throughout.


Zoom-SPOUT Sewing Machine Oil Oiler ~ 4FL. OZ.(118ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYCKTW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6cPJBb3ZHQ8QH

3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 3 OZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN5PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HcPJBbYNBTFVR

Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DdPJBbVT5E89G

Super Lube 21010 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), Blistered, ½ oz Tube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXKZQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-dPJBbN0D6KVT

u/artist508 · 1 pointr/airsoft

I use RC car shock oil because I work in a hobby shop, but any lightweight silicone oil from a hardware store will do.

After every 3-4 days of use take off the slide. Clean the gun with a paper towel. With the hammer down put one drop on each side of it. On the back rail surfaces of the slide put 2 drops of oil on each side, put the slide back on. Invert the magazine and put 2-3 drops of oil on the metal puncture spike. Install a 12 gram Co2, load with BBs and shoot a few mags worth of BBs so the oil works it's way into the seals and other moving parts. Clean the inner barrel to remove any oil blow-by. Remove the CO2 from the mag.

If you play every weekend keeping the CO2 in the mag is no big deal, if you are going to store it remove the CO2.

u/Granimyr · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

It can be hard to describe the difference but the easiest way to describe it that I know of is like rubbing your fingers over perforated leather (more course but subtle) vs textile leather. You will definitely be able to tell a difference, and it's all about "key feel". It's not required at all, it's a just a matter of preference. I personally like it because the sound is more "muted" and the feel is more "fluid" imo.

If you don't know if you should do it, I would recommend trying some out at a meetup or if you have a cheap mech board (well fairly cheap) you can open the switches with an opener (https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1363) and some krytox 205 (https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1550882164&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=krytox+205&psc=1).

u/clothing_throwaway · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Questions about liner material and lube...

For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.

For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.

u/crj3012 · 1 pointr/mechmarket

I don't have any specific links saved. I have read about every post there is on lubing switches. I have used Techkeys thick lube and it makes the MX Clears so smooth that they lose some of their bump. I really like how my most recent batch came out.

I used the dry bike chain lube on the sides of the sliders and the sides of the housings where the sliders go. I used this DuPont lube at the base of the housing where the spring contacts the housing. You could also use it on the slider where the spring contacts it, but I have found that doing this is tedious and doesn't make a real difference. This combo removes the scratchiness without affecting the bump. The spring lube also silences the spring noise. Overall, you end up with quieter, smoother switch with a nice big bump.

u/blauster · 1 pointr/todayilearned

Teflon or Teflon/Silicone sprays kick WD40s ass all over the place. Here's some DuPont brand on Amazon, but HD/Lowe's sell other brands in store. Like $4-5 a can and that shit lasts forever.

u/Astramancer_ · 1 pointr/DIY

I'm a big fan of 3-in-1 household oil for this sort of thing.

https://www.amazon.com/3-IN-ONE-Multi-Purpose-Oil-8-OZ/dp/B0083V8MAS/

It's a good lightweight general purpose oil.

Also, odds are the motor isn't completely sealed, if you take off the housing and maybe a few other parts (or maybe a sticker), there might be a little rubber cap at the end of where the shaft should be. Take that off and add oil there. Be sure to replace the cap!

u/InductorMan · 1 pointr/MechanicalEngineer

Sure! You can get it in very small quantities though and it's not super expensive then. There is a $20 0.5oz (15ml) tube of Krytox here, not sure if the same quantity is available locally to you.

u/ZomBlaze · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Just make sure its Liquid Pro, Liquid Ultra, or Conductonaut.... If you're going to do something, do it right.... ;)

u/lukepighetti · 1 pointr/VEDC

UV-5R, small axe, 3/8 socket set, random pipe, water bottles, tow strap, mosquito repellant, hi-lift jack with liftmate, moving blanket, tarp, paracord, aerokroil

if I had to pick three things it would be the UV5R, blanket, socket set, paracord. see what I did there?

u/macgyver2484 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

You can try getting a can of silicone spray and spraying the entire window track. Move the window in the down position and coat the track the window slides starting at the top to as far down as you can go. Move the window up and down 5-10 times. If there's not an immediate improvement after that, replace the window motor assembly.

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Silicone-Lubricant-Aerosol-14-Ounce/dp/B00D3ZKVAS

u/42N71W · 1 pointr/lasercutting

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-03084-Net-Weight-Lubricant/dp/B0013J62P4/

Maybe I just need to get the real stuff, but I'd read that dry moly works.

The other guy is telling me I need to do 2-3 coats. I suppose I just need to keep trying settings.

u/Tec_ · 1 pointr/CarAV

Kroil is where it's at. It's fucking dark magic how well it works.

u/Smellthesmuckers · 1 pointr/ar15
u/cthief · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here is a short build inventory for people who may want to perform this mod in the future:

  • 1x 0.5oz - 2oz tube of Krytox GPL 205 Grease. This will last you a long time.
  • 1x Victorinox Multi-Tool Oil or any plastic-safe, high viscosity oil.
  • 1x 100pc bag of 68g Cherry MX compatible springs
  • 100x Plate mount Cherry MX Clear keyswitches. You could also buy a KUL ES-87 with Cherry MX Clears, but just be sure to have extras in case of damage during the modification process.
  • 1x KUL ES-87 of any Keyswitch/color (black or smoke black) variety.

    Lube and replace switches based on WFD's guides. Get two small paintbrushes and a pair of forceps or tweezers to help manipulate the components during the lubrication process. You should also whip up a couple of these guys. They make opening the switches a hell of a lot easier.

    This was only my second time desoldering so I learned a lot along the way. Quality, flux-treated desoldering braid and a temperature controlled soldering iron with a chisel tip was the most reliable method I found to desolder. I used the Hakko FX888D soldering iron and station with a 2.4 mm x 14.5 mm Hakko chisel tip. I used Chemtronics' Chem-Wick desoldering braid to remove the solder from the plated through holes on the PCB. You have to take extra care when using desoldering braid not to heat up other components on the board, but with enough practice you will be a pro!
u/rusty_t · 1 pointr/Cubers

Something like this Food-Safe Silicone Spray from CRC might work. It says plastic-safe so at least it won't destroy your cube.

u/Peripheral_Installer · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For stabs (stab housing/stem) your best bet is krytox 205, you can get a half oz tube for 20 bucks on amazon.. That is going to yield better results, trust me..

205 is also amazing on linears.. I wouldnt use anything less or any other brand, especially a 'custom mix' that has oil mixed in...oil doesnt last as long.. you want grease because it doesnt have the fluidity of oil, lasts much longer..

https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+205&qid=1555994639&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For tactiles/clicky 202-204 depending on spring weight

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+204&qid=1555994880&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For the stab bar inserts

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-6PK-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=permatex&qid=1555994695&s=gateway&sr=8-9&th=1

u/AnimalFarmPig · 1 pointr/buildapc

What are you talking about insignificant!? Just look at this graph. The bar for the Coolaboratory Liquid Pro is like 5 times smaller than most of the other bars. How are you gonna tell me it's insignificant when one component is 5 times better!?


whooooo

u/liisrandom · 1 pointr/balisong

Popular brands are Nano Oil 10wt,Militec-1,Benchmade Blue lube,Hoppe's No. 9,KPL Knife Pivot Lube,3-in-1 oil,and Tuff Glide dry lubricantjust to name a few in no particular order. I personally like Nano-oil the best but have been hearing really good things about KPL.

u/Jessie_James · 1 pointr/DIY

Shut off the water supply to the house. Turn on the sink faucets. Turn on any faucets below the sink if possible, such as a spigot outside, downstairs sink, bathtub, etc. The water will flow out. It should not take more than 5 minutes.

Put a bucket/pan\towel under the sink as usual. Then you can swap out the sink fixture and leave the hot water valve open.

Alternately, get some Kano and spray it just below the handle on the valve, where the post goes into the housing, and let it sit overnight.

Then put one wrench on the valve handle, and a second wrench on the valve housing (below the stem) and twist. The second wrench will keep you from twisting the valve right off the pipe as the pipe is generally soft and easy to damage if you twist it too hard!

u/MachNeu · 1 pointr/Gunpla

WD40 will work well, but it's not the best for long term prevention maintenance, can get tacky over time.

You'll want something like this

Thin machine oil, knife oils, etc. Your local hardware store will have something that will work.

Vegetable oil will work, but I wouldn't recommend it for long term maintenance.

You can spend a lot of money on fancy Knife oils, but I honestly don't see the point for relatively cheap nippers. They're a good idea for your $400 cutlery but for $30 nippers, it's overkill.

u/some_kid6 · 1 pointr/Firearms

Dry teflon bike chain lube can really smooth out a trigger. Makes cleaning easier too but I still use 3 in 1 oil on the major moving parts.

u/Dauthdaertya · 1 pointr/airsoft

You may be fine using what you have, and you may be fine using the one you just linked to... It's hard to say. The main things you want to watch out for is it eating plastic/rubber portions of your gun (i.e., what the internals are made out of).

This is what that company recommends for airsoft guns

I don't know for sure that the one that you have currently won't hurt your gun, but if you keep it strictly to the rails (assuming the rails and slide are both metal) you should be fine to use it. I'm not familiar with what products are located in the UK but I'd check your airsoft retailers over there and see what they use or recommend.

In the US I use this spray for 90% of my lubrication and it is sufficient, however, not all silicone sprays are created equal and some will eat plastic due to the amount of acetone present in them (this is what the styrofoam test is good for). For the remaining 10% (that is, gearbox gears), I use white lithium grease as it is a heavier weight lubricant, but not something I'd recommend for the slide of any GBB. Stick to silicon oil or spray if you can for that.

I hope that helps!

u/cotturj · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

The last time I spilled a bit of soda on my board I got a sticky key. I had some of this exact DeoxIT on my desk and used that problem solved. This particular DeoxIT will also add a bit of lubrication.

Other options.

I would use either of these products.

contact cleaner

or

electrical parts cleaner

These exact products can also be had locally in Home Depot and Lowes.

I have used both of these products for years and have never had a problem. Of course make sure there is no power.

I use this on keyboards and Remote Control hobbies, you can literally spray it all over the PCB and in the keys switches and just watch the crap come out. Be aware though that any lube that my have been in the key switches will of course be cleaned out as well.

But other than completely taking it apart (as in soldering if its plate mounted) this will do the trick.

u/Dixbfloppin93 · 1 pointr/homegym

I use this to stop mine from squeaking. Just put a little drop on both sides of the wheels and spin it so it spreads out. Have to do it like once a week to keep it quiet.

u/Hunt3rj2 · 1 pointr/cars

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Grade-Silicone-Lubricant-Weight/dp/B00192D0TQ

This might be worth a shot. It's safe to use on food and plastic so it shouldn't break anything but I'm not sure if it'll actually do anything.

u/bakingpy · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've using this to lube as I've had it long before modding switches: DuPont Lube

Most people use something else, but this has worked well for me and others.

u/Cloakedbug · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/YnotTomorro · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I've been advised to use something like this:
I guess we should prob,b using this, not locktite...
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Copper-Anti-Seize-51147-BOTTLE/dp/B000LDDOXG

I haven't picked it up yet, but will be soon. Fwiw I've been using noalox for a while

u/sambo2366 · 1 pointr/SCREENPRINTING

I love it. I run it right after the flash, and iron the underbase.

It knocks all the fibers down extremely well and then makes the over print look flat, or like satin. Very cool.

You’ll have to basically double the recommended settings.

I run mine on a higher “squeegee” pressure, a lower squeegee off set, and a higher temp. Other wise it was just not very effective.

The tech support basically told me those settings were a CYA and you need to exceed them to get a good press.

Oh, do yourself a favor and order some Teflon spray off amazon right now. It has to have so ink doesn’t stick to the underside off the sheet.

DuPont Teflon Silicone Lubricant Aerosol Spray, 14 oz

u/KokoroHeart · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

This bottle will last you forever.

u/stevenwalters · 1 pointr/overclocking

The coolermaster TIM will work fine, but if you want to get the most out of it, I'd recommend this stuff. It will work the best, but it will also bond the IHS to the core after it gets hot enough. There will be nothing else attaching the IHS to the rest of the CPU besides the socket clamp after you do this, you might want the stuff I linked for that reason alone.

u/norwoodgolf · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I run into locks that have been unused for years. I have two key blanks: a Kwikset and a Schlage. If the key blank has a hard time entering the key way, I use Aero Kroil to loosen it up for picking. It works great.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA

u/PinkJazzTrancers · 1 pointr/ar15

You might want to cover them in their original coating which is Dry Moly Lubricant. e.g. http://www.amazon.com/CRC-03084-Net-Weight-Lubricant/dp/B0013J62P4


u/mmmmbeeer · 1 pointr/Wrangler

My doors were a bitch to get off and on, but after using some oil inside the hinges it's awesome now. I just keep a bottle of this stuff in my console. You can get it almost everywhere.

http://www.amazon.com/3-IN-ONE-Multi-Purpose-Oil-3-oz/dp/B0083V8LPO

u/jurgemaister · 1 pointr/woodworking
u/fvckmemister · 1 pointr/nes

The red light won’t turn in at all. This Does Not Compute says it at 5:30 maybe I misinterpreted it? I’m very very new to all of this so I wouldn’t be surprised if I messed everything up. I used CRC Contact Cleaner and sprayed a bit liberally. It says it evaporates quickly, which it did, so after I dried I sprayed it with dust off to get rid of excess residue.

u/cmv_lawyer · 1 pointr/hookah

Penetrating oil. I like this stuff.

You don't want that getting into the system though, so once it's free, soak the area in dish soap and water.

That sets your ball up for corrosion again, so spritz it with Pam or some other food grade oil.

u/Hindesite · 1 pointr/Cheap_Meals

Instead of WD40, I'd highly recommend this oil:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065VGWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it for just about anything that isn't moving properly and, for the most part, it's worked better and the bottle has lasted longer than WD40.

u/nerys71 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

don't buy that. its expensive.

buy this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083R1FME

same stuff much larger tub not much higher price.

Almost 5 times the quantity for only $4 more. should be a lifetime supply.

u/skiphs · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

Clears are fantastic. I had originally tried browns, but found that when you started typing quickly the bump became more of a scratchy feeling. Clears seem to fix that issue. The bump has a just a bit more tactility than typing on a nice rubber dome keyboard, but with the nice feel of a mechanical switch.

The two main issues I've noticed are:

  • The reset point appears to be right after the bump, meaning you could in theory reset the switch without actually pulling all the way up. It's not a really big issue, as it only happens if I'm being incredibly lazy about holding a key down.
  • The sprint is actually pretty strong. Holding down a key all the way without o-rings, I would find myself occasionally lifting up a bit before I had the o-rings. (Which leads to the first issue, although it's pretty rare)

    Overall, it's my favorite switch. It's a lot of fun to type on without being overly noisy.

    As for the o-rings, they're about what you might expect. They reduce the travel time just enough where you don't really hit the strongest part of the spring, but at the same time it doesn't really feel like you're distance has been reduced. They do remove a bit of the fun out of typing, but not a lot. One thing I will note: If I end up removing the o-rings, I'll be keeping them on the non-main keys. I tend to slam the shift key, or number keys and this makes that feel a bit better.

    Unrelated to any questions you asked: If you pick up a WASD Code, just keep in mind that the stabilizers tend to rattle a bit on the large keys. You can grab some keyboard lube and completely fix that.

    Here's the lube I bought: Amazon
    And here's the o-rings I bought: Amazon
u/chrisawcom · 1 pointr/GPDPocket

I bought mine from:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001PE5XAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure if you're in the UK or not?

I'm planning to keep mine as a backup (just in case I didn't put enough on the CPU or something like that!) - sorry!

u/donjoan666 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have lubed 65g zealio with krytox 205 grease

this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLDALQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I lubed all the way down the sliders and also the bumps.
Is that okay?

u/noel3d · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KU85W4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Will last you so many boards. Used to buy these off other sites til I realized I could get 10 for 50c/ea vs like $2/ea on other sites lol.

u/elkster88 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

My friends in the UK who ride all year round, swear by something called ACF-50. You may wish to look into it.

Spray it on before exposing the bike to salt, wash it off in the spring. I haven't used it but it's supposed to be great. Paging /u/MisterShine to the red courtesy PM phone.

u/drot525 · 0 pointsr/personalfinance

Yeah, that's a big problem. They call it knuckle busting for a reason. For stuck nuts and bolts, my go to is a product called "Air-Kroil" I've never used a better creeping oil that this stuff. It's worth it. We use it in industrial settings all the time. If you can stand on a cheater bar, then you can probably get an impact driver on it. Black and Decker makes on for 60 bucks. You need a bit of clearance for it, probably 8 inches or so. There's also a MAPP gas torch, of course be careful not to catch shit on fire, have a fire extinguisher on hand, clean up the area before hand as well, heating it helps to bust stuck parts sometimes. So does cooling it, in inverted Airduster can sprays that liquid that'll freeze shit.

u/jelbert6969 · -1 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Nasstoys Anal Ese Anal Lubricant, Strawberry, 1.5 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LE5OUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tUO4CbWBKZSCZ

Edit Unm that was for a different person, you want this .

EliteKeyboards MechLube 2 Premium Keyboard Lubricant w/PTFE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CZIZBTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lkP4CbQWTKTCC

u/RobotDeathSquad · -2 pointsr/CustomKeyboards

> from a private gb

Lmao /r/Gatekeeping

Also, can’t you just buy that on amazon? Krytox GPL 205 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0zMpDb8ZJFHXC