Best industrial materials according to redditors

We found 877 Reddit comments discussing the best industrial materials. We ranked the 440 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Shims & shim stock raw materials
Fabrics, fibers & textile raw materials
Metal & alloy raw materials
Plastic raw materials
Metal & alloy wires
Wood raw materials
Rubber raw materials
Expanded & Perforated Sheets
Foam raw materials
Mesh & wire cloths
Cork raw materials
Laminates & composites raw materials
Ceramics & glass raw materials
Graphite raw materials

Top Reddit comments about Industrial Materials:

u/JetsBackupQB · 323 pointsr/LearnUselessTalents

40 G is $15 on Amazon


u/waxfan · 18 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Some are using ptfe sheets like....

Maybe this is what you experienced?

u/aje14700 · 18 pointsr/CCW

I guess people want to know a little more. There's plenty of tutorials online, so do some google work if you want a more in-depth description.


  • Kydex V .080" (I got 12"x12" 8pack on amazon)
  • Balsa wood (local hardware or craft store, I got mine at Menards)
  • Clip (Pick which one you like, I found a 2 pack with hardware on amazon)
  • Painters tape (had some lying around)
  • vacuum food bags (You can use this or a foam press or zip-lock bag if you're careful)
  • IR thermometer (I got one on amazon for 14, but you can find cheaper ones for sub $10)
  • Dremmel or bandsaw
  • Sandpaper (either hand sand or belt sander or sander attachment for dremel)
  • heatgun for loosening a few places


  • Use the balsa wood to cover spots you don't want the holster to be formed in. I covered up the trigger area, the right side of the breech where most pistols eject casings, a line from the front to rear sights, and a line back from the slide release.
  • Set your gun down on one of the kydex sheets to mark out how much material you need. I used a little less than half of one of the sheets. I then did a loose guess of "roll the gun over to see how far I need to go", and cut off what I needed.
  • Get your vacuum bag or foam press or gallon zip-lock back ready. I think the food vacuum bags are easiest, but if you don't have one lying around, I've heard you can use a zip-lock bag, a rag, and a floor vacuum with a hose. Most tutorials online use a foam press. I'd say this gives you the best results, but costs the most, and requires replacing the foam after 5-10 holsters.
  • Heat up the kydex to the proper temperature (The kydex V I linked I think forms best at 300-315), use the IR gun to get the temperature right. If you go too hot, the kydex will "burn", it gets all shiny (The stuff linked "burns" probably around 360-380).
  • Once it gets up to temperature, pull it out, wrap your gun with it, and compress it. The kydex I linked has a shiny and a matte side. I used it with the matte side out, but if you like a glossy look, go for it. Like I said, I used a vacuum food bag (they're safe to use in the oven, so it can handle 320 degree plastic), your mileage will vary. If you use a zip-lock bag, you might need to put a rag around it so it doesn't melt the bag
  • Let cool. Once cooled down, anywhere from 2 minutes to 15 minutes (depends if you use your actual gun or a mold gun, and if you use foam or etc). You can use the IR reader to see what temp it is, under 140 should be good, but other spots may be warmer. The gun acts as a heatsink. The hottest spot is where the kydex is all by it's lonesome.
  • Pull your gun out and start going to work
  • I used a bandsaw to cut out the general shape, and a dremel with a sanding head to get it just right.
  • Sand to your heart's content.
  • You may need to reheat the trigger area specifically if you're having trouble pulling the firearm out. I used my heatgun on low.
  • Decide where you want to mount your clip(s). If you want to mount your clips where the gun is, before you mold, put some balsa wood there so the hardware doesn't scratch your gun.
  • Drill holes for the hardware. I used a 13/64 bit which worked perfectly for my hardware which is supposedly 1/4, but use what ever bit you need for whatever hardware your clip needs.
  • Make sure you have positive retention, but not so much where you can't pull the gun out. Kydex lets the gun out much easier with a quick pull, rather than a lengthy one. The main area for catching is the trigger guard. What ever is catching, heat it up just enough with the heatgun for it to open up.

    And then you're basically all done. It took me probably an hour or less. Total cost for one holster (because I was able to make 2 holsters off of one 12"x12" sheet), was about $6-$7, with the bulk of the cost being the clips. I'll try and answer any other questions others have.
u/Falk3r · 12 pointsr/3Dprinting

Congrats, just got mine 2 months ago.

SeeMeCNC forums are awesome. Start reading every new post.

Best upgrade I've done: PEI Bed

~$30 in upgrades; all my prints stick and pop off with ease. Also, the underside of every part is glassy and smooth. So good.

Buy "feeler gages" to assist with leveling the bed.

My bed leveling process is kinda like this:

  • Set the Z=0 spot, should be where you feel friction when pulling a single, blank piece of printer paper between the nozzle and print bed.

  • Edit the radius of swing in the EEPROM settings per the instructions (I missed this the first time through).

  • Setup and run the tower calibration script.

  • Figure out what the gap is for the central point with the feeler gages; mine was between .006" and .007" (.006" fit, .007" didn't).

  • Now use those "Go" and "No-Go" gages to check the three tower points.

  • If you need to adjust all three towers in the same direction, change the EEPROM radius instead, 0.2 steps.

  • Every few tower calibration runs, re-calibrate the Z=0 point. It will shift as you move screws and change EEPROM settings.

    Let's see, what else. If you can spare the cash, I moved to Simplify3d for all my slicing needs ($100~$150 for the license). Love it. If you can't afford it, maybe you'll find a way.

    Also, get ready to do a bajillion calibration runs. I mean it, don't be in a rush.

    Find a nice 20mm box off thingiverse or whatever, and you're gonna want to print that repeatedly while you dial in your settings. Once that's set, move on to the hollow pyramid, or the 5mm stairs.

    I seriously printed at least 20 of each of these while I dialed in my settings:

  • Extrusion Multiplier
  • Retraction Settings
  • Speed
  • Infill, Outline Overlap
  • Printing temp
  • etcetcetc

    ASAP, move over to PLA. Prints so much nicer for me than ABS.

    Oh, before you go to PLA, make sure you print 3x of the layer fans housings (not just 1x) and order up 2 more of the "squirrel cage" fans (centrifugal fans) from SeeMeCNC. edit: I spliced the single pair of layer-fan wires into three right at the connectors, I didn't bother running extra wire for them.

    Oh, and one other big improvement I made was putting connectors in-line with the hot-end and for all the fans. This way, if I have to replace a fan or upgrade the hot-end I don't have to cut and splice wires, I can just pop it off and connectorize another new one. Here are the connectors I used:

  • Hot end, high-current lines
  • Crimp tool
  • 1 2 3 4 for the lower-current fan lines and thermistor lines.

    That was probably too much info -- just take your time and try not to get frustrated while you get things all set up. It is not a plug-'n-play object, it requires care and feeding.

    ... oh, and have fun! Whatcha gonna print?
u/NotAPreppie · 10 pointsr/techsupportgore

This was my preferred secure wipe method when I still worked in I.T. My second career as a chemist is a much better fit.

  1. Remove drive from case.
  2. Place drive on concrete, gravel, sand or other non-flammable surface away from flammable objects/material. (I prefer to place the drive on an upside-down cast iron skillet so that the heat is less likely to damage the pavement.)
  3. Place ceramic flower pot with drain hole on top of drive (alternately, shotgun a can of soda, cut the top off, place this on top of drive).
  4. Fill pot/can with a thoroughly homogenized mix of iron oxide powder and aluminum powder. Do not breath this dust. The proper ratio is roughly 3:1 iron to aluminum by weight.
  5. Place a layer of potassium permanganate on top of powder mix.
  6. Quickly add several drops of glycerin on top of the permanganate.
  7. It will only take a moment for this reaction to ignite the thermite so be sure to de-ass the area with the quickness. If you can't stop yourself from watching, wear eclipse viewing glasses or welding goggles. Seriously, it's bright.
  8. Avoid breathing in the resulting smoke. It's probably toxic 15 ways from Sunday.
  9. Wait for everything to cool before retrieving drive.
  10. Return the drive to the customer as evidence of secure wipe.


u/Tymanthius · 8 pointsr/Hue

Not OP, but these are the ones I have in my living room.

u/phyllotaxis · 7 pointsr/MineralPorn

This is the listing I used when I purchased it in 2013 (the price and quality were fine for me, I'd probably buy this again if I wanted to experiment more).

Granted, I'm a geologist that works in the metal's mining industry, so my idea of what is "cheap" for a metal ingot might be a little skewed, as I'm comparing it to the prices of other metal ingots like platinum, silver, zinc, etc.

u/gwhunter280 · 7 pointsr/3Dprinting

You need to get yourself some PEI

u/bumholez · 7 pointsr/MouseReview

Buy a large sheet of HDPE plastic and a plastic cutter to hack it into the size you want. I bought this which works great as a hard mousepad. Cutting it in half (the only way it can fit on my desk, and it is still huge) gives you two sheets. Since the material is the same on both sides you get 4 huge hardpad surfaces to play on for $20.

u/secretWolfMan · 7 pointsr/MineralPorn

I wasn't expecting it to be this easy.
You can buy a kg of bismuth for $30 with Prime shipping.

u/Sylamatek · 6 pointsr/AskReddit

Gallium. It's like mercury, but it is safe. Melting point of 85 degrees so it will liquefy in your hands but then solidify on a regular surface. One thing you can do with it is pour it on a table and let it dry flat like a mirror

u/bliss219 · 6 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

as its been said blasting straight to metal is bad. also blasting straight to parchment is bad. use PTFE slick sheets. its reusable to a point and you never have to scrape again!

u/dgcaste · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting




u/horrorshow · 5 pointsr/science

It's available on amazon. I'm all over it.

u/bolognasilencer · 5 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Assuming Butane is your solvent, blast onto glass or Teflon if you don't want to scrape.

If you scrape when the dish is warm with a clean/sharp blade, it will come off a lot easier.

u/BustaferJones · 5 pointsr/knifemaking

EDIT: If you go this route, most options are prime eligible, but make sure you check stock sizes a little bigger or smaller than your ideal size. The price can vary wildly. For example, I was buying 3/16x1x36 for $50, then found that 5/32 was $25.

u/Rad10Ka0s · 5 pointsr/Firearms

I would start on some tool steel blanks. Some generally like this.

Or cut up a steel circular saw blade, some things like that before you try a firearm.

u/Alex3M3TI8 · 5 pointsr/Hue

Hi, I recently have installed a bunch of light strips under cabinets. I am not sure if this helps you, but I also didn't like the light strips "bare". I purchased these:

And the plastic cover helps to diffuse the light and make the whole thing look a bit more like a continuous light instead of individual squares. I know it's kinda expensive at $50 US (currently), but I think they look really good, much better than they did "naked".

u/QnickQnick · 4 pointsr/Silverbugs

That should get ya to it, sorry for the messy link I'm on mobile.

It has a weird enamel coat that chips off easily so the horn in the front isn't too useful, but $20 shipped for a 9lb anvil is too good to pass up.

u/jook11 · 4 pointsr/LearnUselessTalents

Okay, maybe not quite that small. This one Might not be bad though.

u/hotshowerscene · 4 pointsr/chemicalreactiongifs

Nope, very easy by the sounds of it (I haven't tried). It's non toxic so not too many issues getting it.

First search on amazon, 15g for $26

u/Halfawake · 4 pointsr/Unexpected

It might be gallium which is pretty much non-toxic and can be bought on amazon

u/dusty78 · 4 pointsr/Firearms

No. You'd need aluminum powder. That link goes to Aluminum Oxide. It's exactly like the difference between iron and rust.

This, on the other hand...

u/ryanahamilton · 4 pointsr/smarthome

I put in Hue lightstrips under my kitchen cabinets. I highly recommend installing them in diffusers. They help soften the light, but more importantly they make for a very clean looking install. I used these ones:

The connectors made by this company are also very useful for splitting and joining strips together: (also available on Amazon)

u/doc4feet · 4 pointsr/Hue
u/RodBlaine · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

I use two methods for displaying planes in flight:

  1. Acrylic rodin a wood or acrylic base. I get acrylic sheet at the hardware store and wooden bases at the art store.

  2. Airfix stands
u/SnapshotSuperhero · 3 pointsr/SWlegion

I ordered this:


Enough to do way more lightsabers than I'll ever need. Just trimmed it to size, filed the end to be rounded, and then colored with a red sharpie. Once dry I sealed it with gloss varnish. I recommend attaching the blade before coloring with sharpie so you don't smudge it with fingerprints.


I also picked up a neon green, blue, and yellow sharpie... Plenty of blade colors.

u/ThompsonBoy · 3 pointsr/CR10

Amazon has them for $22. Match with one of these to attach it.

The actual product doesn't have that weird edge, it's just a flat sheet.

u/pyr0ball · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I used a combination of [magnetic sheets with adhesive] ( and a PEI sheet. Works like a charm

edit: here's some pics of when I was putting it together:

u/Kariko83 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

DiiCooler, Z braces, thumbscrews for bed leveling, and the melzi temp fix are all common mods that I can recommend. You could also get the all Metal Hot end from Micro Swiss but I have not done this myself.

As for supplies, I would recommend getting a sheet of PEI and some 3M adhesive to stick it to the print bed. PEI is a great, low maintenance print surface that prints stick to very well even without any form of fixative to improve bed adhesion. If you don't go that route I would say get some buildtak to put on the print bed with washable gluestick depending on the filament you use. Basically you don't want to be printing directly on to the bed as there is a hole where the thermistor comes through.

Other than that, just get extra filament and have fun with it.

u/Thistlebalm · 3 pointsr/pics

This site says it's about as common as silver. Here's a chart that seems to confirm. (Ag-silver, Au-gold, Bi-bismuth) You can definitely make your own bismuth crystals at home, and can buy it from amazon.(not a referral link)

u/Asliceofpizza · 3 pointsr/woahdude


I bought it in preparation for an experiment that I was going to run on making some very large lab-grown samples of my own.

u/Username1906 · 3 pointsr/UnearthedArcana

>I change it to a “bench anvil”, which is basically a smaller anvil that weighs ~30 pounds, meant to be used one a table to support lighter work.

Which is what I attempted to do here. Any sort of flat steel or cast iron surface can qualify as an anvil in a pinch, even a simple block of steel. Immunity to malleability is the primary goal, because then it can act as a suitable working surface.

I understand why it'd be strange to have a standard sized anvil, and I agree, but I also imagined a smaller, portable sized anvil.

Here is an example of what I had in mind:

It may have the same drawbacks as you mentioned, as it is smaller for the sake of portability, but I personally think it fits with the tool kit.

u/xoNightshade · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Gallium. I have no use for this but I think it's freaking cool.

u/dropbhombsnotbombs · 3 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

It's a roll of parchment paper-like material that's safe to blast directly onto. Here's a link.

u/Faxon · 3 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

prime shipped next day to your door. THIS STUFF IS NOT PARCHMENT PAPER. It is a special plastic (Polytetrafluoroethylene, or PTFE, known as teflon by many) known for its solvent resistance and nonstick properties. you can process small particles of it and suspend them in solvents as a result without them breaking down, and in lubricating oils as a nonstick sheen to help prevent buildup of grime on bike chains and other moving parts on machinery and also sporting gear like the bearings of most anything and also fishing spools and gun slides. When you make it into a nice solid sheet, it's thick and sturdy enough to hold a decent amount of weight in wax, and can handle the direct solvent contact with the cold butane for the amount of use you will get out of a single cutting. I'd recommend buying a few rolls if you make a lot of wax, as after a couple batches worth of large slabs + folding the sheets do get worn out pretty quick, but it's fucking worth it, and any left over sheet that's still intact can be used for the storage of slabs as well.

u/brohemith · 3 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

As others have said, PTFE sheets are the best way to go. Something like these;

Being able to blast, heat purge, and then transfer to vacuum all in one pan makes the entire process go a lot easier. It especially helps in giving a nice, even patty so all of it purges equally.

u/Slab_Amberson · 3 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Chamber and pump - $235

Glass extract tube that holds 60 grams - $40 A larger tube may be necessary, I don't know how big your pants are but Amazon has tons of different sizes to choose from.

25 micron Mean Screenz - $20

Thermometer gun - $17

PTFE sheet to blast onto - $20

I use these rubber gaskets to attach my screens on and tighten a hose clamp over the gasket - $15 So the order will be glass tube, screen, gasket, hose clamp.

Presto griddle - $23

This gives you a total of $370 with plenty room for shipping, butane, and anything else you may need.

u/turn_n_cough · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I get the raw PEI because I have some high temperature tape available at the makerspace. That one is probably fine, too.

u/joelav · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I tried that a while back. Don't waste your time. The steel is VERY low quality and won't harden. If you want to go a simple route, use a reciprocating saw blade. That steel is already hard. You have to be very careful shaping it not to overheat it, but you won't need to harden it after.

Using good quality steel makes a BIG difference. You can get it from McMaster Carr, or even Amazon. I found this hunk on ebay and paid 3 dollars for it.

u/krejenald · 3 pointsr/blacksmithing

There are two knifemaking subreddits, /r/knifemaking and /r/Bladesmith. If you want to get him steel Amazon stock O1 tool steel which will be much nicer for him to work with than leaf springs - If you go with that I would suggest getting 5/32 inch thickness and 1.5 or 2 inch width, and whatever length you prefer.

u/Demroth · 3 pointsr/cade

This is fixable. Get a 1/8" inch thick wood board (like craft plywood). Cut it to the size of the control panel. You may need two side by side, if you cant find a big enough piece. Then use Liquid Nails to adhere it to the top of the control panel (use a cheap paint brush so it's a smooth even coat. Then re-drill the holes.

Or if you can still remove the control panel, you glue it on then trim off the extra with a box knife.

Edit: If the holes are bigger than the the underside of the buttons, use 1/4" inch thick wood board. Do not pin the buttons to only the 1/8" board. If you use 1/4" you can also use seaboard.

u/SweatshopTycoon · 3 pointsr/MouseReview

High Density Polyethlene sheet. 12"x36"x1/4". It's textured, which lets sensors pick it up.

u/mrtiro · 3 pointsr/EDC

You can get a 12"x24" sheet of Kydex for pretty cheap. Amazon carries ~1/8" thick sheet of the stuff for about $12.50. You can soften it in an oven or with a heat gun to shape it. It is easy to cut by scoring it with a utility knife and snapping it along the score line. You can also cut/drill holes in it to make attachment points for organization.

u/JamesWjRose · 3 pointsr/led

I used these as they defuse the led and screw into place

u/Piratestoat · 3 pointsr/stevenuniverse

Hold up. So you're saying non-crystalline, amorphous bismuth? Like this? That's what you've been talking about this whole time? Why did you not say that at the beginning?

Because you've been talking in other threads about the metal under the surface of a bismuth crystal. . . which IS crystalline.

u/peanut_brettle · 3 pointsr/Hue
u/disappointer · 3 pointsr/Hue

Similar but slightly different, I went with these. Two of those fit a single light strip just about perfectly.

u/geoelectric · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

There’s some give, and it makes noise when it flexes. I did not like that at all, but liked everything else.

So I used 1/16th” contact neoprene I already had around, applied in a few spots and it’s totally solid and quiet now. Foam grip tape or similar would probably also work. Rubber furniture sliders would need a lot of trimming but the thin felt type might work.

Aside from the strips you can see inside of the grips, I also put small pieces inside the bits that go above and below the Switch to try to reduce any chance of visible scratches on the front.

The kit is very high quality otherwise—the fitted case a la Skull & Co is killer—and the grip does feel nice enough. I’m not huge on the finger grooves they put in the back for smaller hands, but the wrist position is better than anything else I have tried (Mumba, JetTech, Orzly, Hori). That’s a big deal for me because I have RSI issues and code for a living.

TL;DR: it’s worth the trouble of finding and shimming with tape or neoprene to make it good.

u/Bigbospear · 3 pointsr/SonyAlpha

So I would assume it’s hitting the body when you press down... probably needs to be repaired, but I would try putting some thin padding behind it to see if you can stop it from making any noise....

I don’t know if this stuff is too thick but it’s worth a try...

adhesive rubber sheet

u/cmagnuson · 3 pointsr/boostedboards

I had this exact same issue on my Stealth board. The rattle almost sounds like someone's taped a ruler to the front end of your board. The problem is caused by the accessory cable rattling in the front of the board.

When you remove your front truck, you'll see that Boosted put in a bunch of foam to prevent any rattle, but it's not enough. I solved the problem by purchasing this adhesive foam insulation and putting a couple extra layers around the accessory cable. I also put some between the deck and the rear cables to stop additional rattling back there. Now when I ride the board there's no rattle whatsoever.

I'm not jumping at the chance to remove my front truck again, but let me know if you really want me to take photos to show where I installed the adhesive foam and I'll do it.

u/alphabennettatwork · 3 pointsr/TerrainBuilding

Honestly, I think as long as it's a fine wire mesh you'll be pretty good. I just found this on Amazon, which would certainly work but you could probably to to your local hardware store and see if they have any metal screen and it would probably be a bit cheaper.

A "junk yard" area could also be a cool addition, with burned out car shells or even just some dumpsters (covered in old graffiti obviously).

u/Mthrillah · 3 pointsr/Gameboy

If you ever find yourself at a craft or hobby store try looking for some 1/8” EVA foam sheets like these to use as padded dividers between consoles. Works wonders :)

u/signint · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Various sizes of these acrylic rods molded to shape by heating them, then painting with clear paint may yield the effect you are looking for.

u/TURBO2529 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

[PEI for $17] ( this will last you for a long time (Through many many prints) if you are careful with it.

[Transfer tape for sticking PEI to buildplate] (

[Here is a site with more information] (

Edit: For immediate printing buy a cut sheet of glass from the glass or hardware store, then spray 2 layers of [Aqua net extra strength super hold unscented] ( it must be this brand and product. Or you could match ingredients. This method will work for fairly large prints but is not as good as PEI. After each print just spray another coat of hairspray.

u/esseff3d · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I added a heated bed to my Simple Metal, and now everything is pancake flat. It has been such a great improvement over struggling with the blue tape. I also put a sheet of PEI on the bed too. Now all I do between prints is wipe off the bed with rubbing alcohol. Everything sticks like glue while the bed is hot, and pops off when it cools down.

u/BlueFalchion · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

attach to glass or aluminum plate with

i used 2" tape i'd suggest 3" or so -- it doesn't unroll clean, teh adhesive sticks

or buy a thick sheet of pei. and just use that. (but thats damn expensive)

u/throwaway_for_keeps · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

This was the one I got, and I also got these adhesive pads to hold it to the bed. Right now the PEI is just clipped on since I wasn't sure how well it would work, but I'm planning to throw the adhesive sheet on and make it a little more permanent this weekend.

u/Dycus · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

While I've never had success with a Rep2X and PLA (except for one roll this one time), it sounds like you've got it extruding fairly well at this point.

So your current difficulty is getting the print to stay stuck to the bed? I'd recommend getting a sheet of PEI (I use 0.03" thickness) like this:
Then cut it to size and stick it to your print bed with this:

I've had awesome success with PEI and PLA. It sticks great until it cools down, then it comes off easily. Print with the bed at 50C.

u/bwyer · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I have several upgrades in the queue for this weekend once my M3 hardware kit comes in:

u/Entheogenic84 · 2 pointsr/trees

it looks like its not that difficult to make your own crystals. amazon even sells pure bismuth by the pound! Gotta try this sometime

u/scienceonly · 2 pointsr/homechemistry

Here is an Ebay link at $30/lb +$9 shipping. That's just from a google search, I'm sure you can find it cheaper.

Edit: Of course it's cheaper at Amazon

u/neuquino · 2 pointsr/science

$14.99 + $7.70 shipping from [RotoMetals via Amazon]( "shipping in the U.S. I think")

$12.99 + $6.38 shipping (to Utah) directly from [RotoMetals]( "not sure about shipping rates to other places")

u/wetanwild99 · 2 pointsr/LearnUselessTalents

After a quick search i found some on amazon. Even has a few people who say they made the crystals from it

u/UROBONAR · 2 pointsr/askscience

This guy is right.

Do this outside. Maybe set up a fan blowing this shit away from you.

A cursory search says muriatic acid from the store is around 10M which is dangerous. Skin burns would suck, but accidentally inhaling a bit too much of the fumes will burn your lungs and send you to the hospital.

Dilute the stuff down before use. Use a glass beer bottle since hydrochloric acid seems to attack a variety of plastics. Measure out nine parts of water then add one part acid to it. Measure out water. Add acid. ORDER MATTERS. If you do this in the opposite order, the acid could boil and splash.

In my opinion, you guys should just source the bismuth from an online supply store. That acid is dangerous shit. (

u/GuardedDig2 · 2 pointsr/ArtisanVideos

Olympia Tools 38-789 9 Lb. Hobby Anvil, Cast Iron ;)

u/MissingNebula · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

My first instinct was to link to the textbooks on my list I need for my internship. But they're more something I really need, rather than really want lol. So something I really want is Gallium! Because I'm a chemistry nerd!

u/heartbraden · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Is this what you use now?

u/ToneDef__ · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Just Use PTFE Sheets BHogart sells fiberglass reinforced stuff for cheapest. PTFE is totally solvent proof and wont dissolve into your extract like silicone. Additionally its used in medical devices because bacteria have trouble adhering to its surface because its so non stick.

Oilslick sells 16' rolls for 1$ a foot at alot of smoke shops.

BHOgart Has larger rolls of the stuff that is fiberglass reinforced for better heat transfer, Strength, and so it "always lays flat"( so you dont get paper curls on the sides of the sheet in the oven).

u/goalzy · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts
u/wagonmafia434 · 2 pointsr/Dabs

i seriously hope you arent dabbing directly out of the silicone puck or the parchment paper - they make these nice glass dishes specifically to handle the heat of a quartz NC -

i strongly suggest storing your concentrate in PTFE, glass, or at least avoid all porous containers like silicon. unless you like your terps leeching out of your concentrate, just sayin....


just dropping some knowledge that was shared with me on this sub a few yrs ago, dont mean to come off as a know it all, just trying to help

u/TechJunky1 · 2 pointsr/ShatterDeals

Instead of parchment this stuff is laboratory grade. You can even use it for extractions, I have been and it makes it easy to take from the extraction dish to my purge with no scraping until it's finished ;)

This is the best stuff to store extractions in long term. The two images above are product on PTFE

u/smokedoom · 2 pointsr/Dabs

Oil Slick Sheet Labratory Grade PTFE Roll Solvent Resistant Alternative to Parchment Paper, 48x16"

I’m pretty sure it’s this

u/Dabs2Review · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Mind throwing up the link to the ptfe you bought?

I've always used this without problems

u/Elbarfo · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have just got them from Amazon but I may be biased because Prime. PEI isn't really cheap anywhere. I went with a .06 sheet (rather thick) for my replacement and couldn't be happier with it. Mirror smooth surface makes shiny parts.

Shiny bed

After struggling with having the thinner sheet pull up (and bubble) over time after trying to remove stubbornly stuck parts, I went with a thicker sheet and it hasn't budged. The only downside is a slightly longer warmup time. Maybe a minute or so. It's never been a real issue.

Amazon PEI Link

You'll also need 1 of these or something similar.

u/Red_Chairface · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/killaudio · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

GREAT material for printing adhesion. NO glue, no hairspray, just clean it every once in a while with alcohol

u/kwshi · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Just a word on PEI: All Lulzbot printers now come with a PEI sheet pre-installed, and it works wonderfully for several months until bubbles form and soon you have to replace it. But if that's what you like, cool.

Do note of course that you can buy large sheets of plain PEI on Amazon, along with adhesive sheets, allowing you to install PEI on any printer. If you're lazy, Gizmodorks also sells pre-cut PEI sheets with adhesive already attached.

But also be warned: if the LB autoleveling process somehow screws up because of poor electrical contact and doesn't realize it, your PEI gets messed up real quick, and replacing PEI, as you may know, is quite the pita.

u/archindividual · 2 pointsr/PrintrBot

Get this -

Then get this -

Cut the sheet to the size of the bed. Put the glue on the sheet with the old windex+credit card deal. Put the sheet on the bed the same way.

Adjust your Z height to account for the thickness difference.

Never ever worry about bed adhesion again, ever.

u/TeeJS · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners


Cut it out w/notches for the bed leveling screws, hold it on w/binder clips (or 3M adhesive sheets). Holds like crazy when warm, releases easy when cool. Can even take it off and bend it to pop off harder/fragile prints.

u/Fluidfox · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've had good success with .03inch thickness (0.762mm)

That's a bit thicker than you would tend to find, but it has the benefit that you can use high grit sandpaper to resurface it many many times. I'm about 200 prints in on my first sheet, and I suspect it'll outlast the printer if I don't break the mirror tile it's on. (the sizes are awkward on this listing unless you have a 12x12 build surface like I use)

u/Voit237 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Congrats on your decision! Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

As far as the auto bed leveling kit, it's brand spankin new and it's the first time I'm seeing it. There were rumors on here of MTW releasing that. Manual bed leveling with the clips that come with the kit were a huge pain in the ass; there was too much play and you need a hex key to level it. I printed Easy bed levelers which are light years better. Manual bed leveling now takes just a quick couple minutes, which I only do after a handful of prints. While you're at it consider these for your printer, too (not necessary but will make your life a lot easier once you start printing):

  • Blower fan duct - you'll need to spend a couple dollars on a blower fan, but the shroud keeps air flow directed at your print rather than blowing at, and cooling, the heating block.
  • PEI sheet for the bed - no painter's tape, no glue, no hairspray, no abs slurry. Prints just stick to it without any prep work. Just keep it clean with isopropyl alcohol.
u/The_Canadian · 2 pointsr/DIY

Here you go!

u/Na3s · 2 pointsr/CustomKnifeMakers

Amazon ships globally?



u/RenThraysk · 2 pointsr/knives

Amazon has 01 6"x18" in either 1/8" or 1/16" for < $70

u/Rambles_Off_Topics · 2 pointsr/Fingerboards

Here you go bros, "Creamy Goo"

/u/jacobteston /u/mrxlegendary

u/artist508 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

I have a roll of foam tape left over from sealing windows. So I used a leather hole punch to make a self stick circle that filled the hole. Granted I had this stuff laying around.

u/bizbiz23 · 2 pointsr/Fingerboards

This tape is really cheap but is also pretty thick. It went by Creamy Goo, Black Jesus, and a couple other names from different companies:

u/kaokao1215 · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

I know last time this was mentioned, someone said that you may just have to buy a large sheet of HDPE plastic like this:

and just cut it to whatever shape you need.

u/paperwaller · 2 pointsr/flashlight

For a holster have you thought of using kydex? You could build a perfect little holster that looks like it was made for it. The stuff is really easy/fun to work with.

Does this light put out 180L with a normal 1.5/1.2v AAA or just with a 10440 @ 3.7V?

As far as a suggestion for a 10440 this one works for me. Do not bother with Trustfire. Both of my Trustfire 104440s are shot.

I don't think you're going to find much with this little guy as far as mods go. Really just playing around with how long it can handle a 10440 will be fun. Be careful I have had a few AAA/10440 flashlights that will only function on 104440 after using one in it and the other flat out stopped working. (Thorfire I think it was.) Just a reminder to not let it heat up too much is all. My OLight AAA goes with me everywhere even when I have my S1 clipped in my pocket just because it's so small and a great thing to hand to someone when they ask "can I use your flashlight".

u/Aouellet · 2 pointsr/Goruck

As a word to the wise, be careful if using a dremel, especially with thicker stuff ( I used .128" Kydex). Cutting wheels like to pull away and spew melted material and dust. The stuff isn't exactly compliant, which is why they use it for cutting boards.

I simply traced out the material off an existing frame sheet and cut it on a scroll saw. Then cleaned edges with a file. You can find a link to .118" Kydex from Amazon here. I got some in .128" from a material supply place. The thicker it is, the more rigid you'll get.

u/twahlin · 2 pointsr/Goruck

Haha - I did feel a little weird purchasing from them, because I'm really not rucking that hard :)

Rather just trying to carry a bunch of stuff around a live out of a backpack.

I've seen some other folks purchase a kydex sheet, trace the current frame sheet, then cut it down.

u/qovneob · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Not OP but mine were too bright, and reflected off the granite countertop which wasnt great. I got some of these to mount them which helped though they arent cheap. I'd recommend warm white instead of cool as well.

u/W9CR · 2 pointsr/DIY

This was a long time coming, as I was making do with a shitty L shaped desk in my shed and some poorly supported shelves for years. I didn't have enough room to spread out complex projects and my tool storage was non-existent. Further I was constantly hitting my legs on the desk and it was too low; thus hard on my back.

As I had a 10' long back area, I wanted a wall supported work bench with shelves of test equipment and storage above it. The rubber maid twin rack was ideal as it would go into the wall studs and was avialbe in up to 24" deep support arms.

I stacked a countertop on this and it was perfect for working on. Heat resistant and cheap enough to replace if it gets damaged. The best part is no supports under it to hit my knees on. I did add some small reinforcing 1" wide strips under it to distribute the load.

Protip: when installing the shelves and countertop, leave a 1.5" space from the wall to the shelf as this will allow cords/coax to go behind it and space to tilt the whole thing up if need be and remove/reposition it.

Also the Grip Rite screws are fucking awesome. I used a electric torque driver to put them in and the star drive prevents torque out like with the phillips screws. I'll never use the old phillips wood screws again.

During all this I got a cheap tool box from harbor freight and solved my tool organization problems once and for all. I installed some channel with double sided tape under the shelves and put RGB LED strip lights under them.

I'm very happy with the almost 10' of work space now, it's such a step up from my 50" wide desk.

u/creed_bratton_ · 2 pointsr/arduino

Are the LED strips laid out relatively straight? Because if so the easiest solution is to just encase them in something. They sell Aluminum Channel for LEDs, like this:

That example might not be durable enough for your application, but something along those lines would definitely be better than just an exposed strip. I have used it before and the plastic is fairly durable and flexible so hopefully it wouldn't crack from impact.

u/bkpsu · 2 pointsr/DIY

I use these aluminum rails for my LED strips

Easy to mount, diffuse the light nicely.

u/Thomcat316 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

There's also channels with diffusers for mounting LED tape strips. I just bought these to mount strips in my teardrop trailer galley.

One of the accessories for these channels is a longer clip that lets you join two sections. I think I also saw a corner clip.

u/constantino1 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

best... no clue, havent tried them all


what I used



Im pleased, the wifi control works with alexa to go on as scheduled, retains its setting if you flip the power by a switch. The lights are bright enough, the track diffuses the light, I mounted it at a 45degree angle under the cabinets, though I probably could have bought a track made for that.


However, my one gripe is that the LEDs have a noticable flicker to them sometimes... not sure if its the PSU, controller, or LEDs. They dont all do it though, so thats strange.


Hue just looked ridiculously expensive for the same thing... there were even complaints about its quality, which for $100+ should not be a concern.

u/WJKramer · 2 pointsr/Hue

I tried several different brands. If your countertop is glossy you will see the lights with or without a diffuser. These fit perfectly:

Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels With Diffuser, End Caps and Mounting Clips LED Strip Channels for Max 16mm Wide LED Lightstrip Light Mounting--LL-007-M

u/JoeB- · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I have retrofitted two kitchens with LED under cabinet lighting, both before tiling the backsplash, each at a cost under $100 USD. The first has been going strong for almost 10 years.

First, IMO under cabinet lighting is task lighting. It doesn't need to be dimmable and doesn't need to be RGB, just go with a warm or cool temperature depending on your preference.

This is what I suggest - I assume you are in the U.S...

  1. Run 18AWG Low Voltage LED Cable 2 Conductor Jacketed in-Wall Wire from the back of a selected base cabinet through the wall(s) to each contiguous span of upper cabinets. These wires can terminate in a small box in, or under, the cabinet. The wiring also can be daisy-chained if needed. For example, a wire can be used to connect cabinet spans that are separated by a small distance, say by a range hood.
  2. Wire a switched 110v outlet into the same base cabinet. This only needs to be operated by a single switch,, probably over the counter, or near an entrance to the kitchen area.
  3. Use LED 5050 Flexible Strip Lights, Warm White 3000K 16.4ft 300 LEDs (or whatever color temp you prefer) inside Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels with Diffuser cut at custom lengths to match the widths of cabinet spans. These should be mounted at the front of the cabinet and a small wiring channel used to hide the wiring under the cabinet were it runs from front to back.
  4. Drive the LED strips by a LEDwholesalers 12-Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 60W, 3204-12V (or something similar) mounted in the base cabinet with the low-voltage wiring and switched outlet.

    I used these items. This setup is simple and inexpensive, any one component can be replaced easily if it fails, and it can be controlled by a smart switch of your choice.

    If you want mood lighting, then you can wire 110v outlets above the cabinets and use one, or two of Philips - Hue Play White & Color Ambiance Smart LED Bar Light to shine on the ceiling, or use Philips Hue bulbs in your recessed light cans.
u/anonymous_commentor · 2 pointsr/Hue

I didn't want my strips just glued on so I used these strips:

While it is a bunch of extra work cutting and attaching these, once done the install is not ever going to fall apart.

Added bonus: the diffuser actually makes the light better in my opinion as it decreases the visibility of each light's reflection on the counter.

u/grimson73 · 2 pointsr/Hue

Sorry, I meant the following products (examples):
Basically you enclose the bare ledstrip in an aluminum profile with a (semi) transparant cover of choice so the strip itself is protected and glued one time only. You only have to mount the profile itself so therefore it's easier to move the profile than to undo the glueing.

u/J1mSm1th · 2 pointsr/Hue

someone posted a link to these a few days ago, i bookmarked it but dont remember what redditor posted originally... you might be able to use these on the ceiling and put the strips in.

u/cloakedcode · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

All the posts I could find recommended 3M "bumpon" feet, which work great, but I wanted something slim. I found some of Ripster's glorious work but the only place I found selling "egrip tape" was charging ~$70 USD these days. Stumbled upon these furniture pads on Amazon and they're a whopping $11! One pack is a lifetime's supply... or is it. ;)

I'm very happy with them, and they're very slim (1/16 of an inch). Probably going to use this stuff on all future keyboards and wrist rests.

u/_thekev · 2 pointsr/Hue

I have 50 meters of this under the soffit on my house. It’s not a good choice for that much because wiring entry points don’t exist, but would be a lot better for indoors. It’s pretty small. Just barely fits the width of 10-12mm LED tape. Check the list of sponsored related products for other designs, including a really nice looking corner piece under the muzata brand.

u/sirjustindouglas · 2 pointsr/Nanoleaf

I used for strips, for light diffusion, and the board is just a piece of large plywood I cut a little larger than the star pattern and painted black with two layers of spray paint. I applied polyurethane sealer on top to give it a clean finish. It has a wire on the back so I can move it around the house.

u/semperperatus · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I ordered this mesh; TIMESETL 3pcs Stainless Steel...
The mesh itself is fairy malleable, so i just wrapped it around and used needle nose pliers to clamp it into place on the pipe. The two O rings on either side are the same ones used for the co2 dip tubes on ball lock kegs. If I did this again I would try and find finer mesh than what I expected from that order, but I did test it out with hop pellets and water and only fine particulate made it through, which would settle out anyways when I cold crash. I am actually dry hopping today in the keg freely with 3 oz of cryo so i'm curious to see how it works out.

u/xPawreen · 2 pointsr/nanotank

I bought a sheet of mesh and cut it to the size for covering that whole section of the tank wall, plus an extra inch of height. Then I fold the top inch against a thin ruler so that it can hang over the wall like this. But I hang it in the display section of the tank instead of the filter section.

u/bilobob · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Doesn't Sorbothane contain plasticizer that can damage plastics? I use it in all my metal keyboards but avoid any contact with plastics. Am I being over worried?

I use neoprene sponge foam rubber for my spacebars and it works great.

u/stuckinmiddleschool · 1 pointr/SWlegion

Clear acrylic rods (these) and blue/green sharpie.

Edit: and actually my go to for lightsabers is fishing line, far less prone to breaking and thin like OG/Rebels sabers. Prequel sabres are nice and chonky though.

u/Oh_Herro_ · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Also known as Ultem, it can be purchased here from CSHyde. There are several options there for size and thickness. The bonus is that these sheets come with adhesive already laminated to the sheet. I believe you can also get custom sizes, although larger sheets are no problem to cut to size.

Alternatively (and probably more common), you can purchase PEI sheets here on Amazon. The recommended adhesive (transfer tape) is here, and there may be other sizes for both available on Amazon as well as wBay.

The whole idea on using PEI as a print surface is that you get good print adhesion with most common print materials. Using a heated bed with PEI works great for getting prints to stick while warm, and also pop off of the print bed fairly easily as the bed cools.

I went with the stuff from CSHyde for convenience, but I think most users here are going with the Amazon stuff (they have thicker sheets which many users prefer as it can last longer before needing replacement).

u/dmgdispenser · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
Do note I am using a rostock, but psi will work on all regardless, it's also acetone resistant, so you could clean really easily

u/jsm11482 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I recently stopped using blue tape and switched to PEI sheets on glass. I'll never go back. I think this would be a good thing for you to try, the PEI sheet releases pretty easily once cool.

PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length

TapeCase 12" squares (pack of 6), Converted from 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape

u/Trochlea · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Just in case you change your mind it has been amazing for me

u/3dstuff · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/ClearAirTurbulence3D · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Do you have any left over bits you can check for a film? Maybe the film was removed when the adhesive was applied, but it still seems odd that PET isn't sticking.

This is the PEI I bought

u/therealpdrake · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

that's what i ordered for my printer. i have the same one, but i use simplify3D. totally worth the money.

u/aalkinsdesign · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

It's a specific material that has properties allowing most fdm materials to stick very well too (PETG too well at times). There is a ton of information in forums on that bed surface.

You usually buy a sheet about 30 thou (0.03") thick and stick straight to the aluminium heatbed or on to the glass bed with 3M double sided.

I bought this one: PEI
But here are tons of suppliers around depending where you are located.

u/theRIAA · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I bought the same thing for my v1:
12"x12" 0.03" PEI
(6) 12x12" 3M Adhesive Transfer Tape:

At the time there were no practical cheaper/smaller options (although the extra 3M adhesive does come in handy).

... I scored/snapped the sheet into 4 pieces, and I'm still on the first PEI sheet after like 300 hours. It still looks flawless. I only use sharp scraper blades or no tools to remove parts. If you're printing something crazy in a cold room, you can add hairspray, but for the most part, PEI has perfect adhesion on it's own.

I definitely recommend the thicker PEI (0.03"+), as it makes the MPSM bed much more rigid. I don't have to bend the aluminum bed "flat again" anymore. I dont worry about bending the bed when ripping parts off the bed, even with super high adhesion.

Clean it with alcohol, not sandpaper.

u/sbussinger · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

In used this PEI sheet:

And this adhesive:

Try to get the adhesive down as smoothly and evenly as possible. No overlaps or gaps if possible. I scored and snapped the PEI to match the build plate, then applied the tape to the PEI, then applied that to the bed.

u/m_733 · 1 pointr/pics

you can buy a pound of bismuth on for 20 bucks and make dozens and dozens of your own on a kitchen stove. You can google up directions, but a basic summary. 1) melt all your bismuth in one container, pour into a second (leave the silvery oxidized film behind) 2)cool as slowly as possible 3) as it begins to turn solid again pour off the liquid, leaving crystals formed around your container.

u/Cannabat · 1 pointr/Psychonaut

Besides fix as many world problems fixable by money (hunger, shelter, health) as possible, which I don't think is what you are asking about...

  • Buy some land and build an earthship community, make it a place where anybody is welcome

  • Grow many, many plants - fruits, veggies, ornamental plants (including bonsai), some psychonautical plants, trees, grasses, shrubberies, lichens, fungi farm, you get the idea

  • Buy a crapton of bismuth and grow ginormo bismuth crystals, a new hobby of mine

  • Buy the rest of my dream music equipment and record lots of music, invite people to come and play along

  • Create a videogame studio and make a game I've been creating in my mind for years that chronicles an epic war of love, so to speak, between two souls who continually reincarnate in different times to learn from each other in battle, romance, philosophical discussion, psychonautical antics, and general saving-the-world type things

  • Write a book on the same videogame idea, maybe do the book first

  • Dance

  • Buy a building in somewhere and make it a psychonaut's wet dream hangout/safe spot where anybody can go to trip (or be sober) and be safe with therapists, yoga instructors, meditation guides, art/music/light rooms, fruits and veggies, tea and coffee, trippy books, quiet zones, tooooyyysss!, friendly people
u/nedonedonedo · 1 pointr/mallninjashit

they have anvils too

I was hoping for a goldmine but it seems like it's just cheep tools

u/Laughing_Loudz · 1 pointr/FidgetSpinners

kataderple is right, thats what I did. Here is what I used for a hammer

Also used this anvil

First time doing it and I just randomly hammered away sometimes hitting harder but mostly just using the required amount of force to make the dimples.

u/Gungyver · 1 pointr/blacksmithing

you could always take a rotary tool, a pointed diamond bit, a ruler and a gold,silver or bronze sharpie (if your i beam is dark in color if its somewhat shiny you can just use a normal black sharpie) and make that drilled round hole into a square one.

for a horn a i just thought up a mod for a I-beam anvil. what you will need, get a good thick piece of round stock (a axle or thick spring from a car would work as its good high carbon steel), a blowtorch head, a small bottle of MAP gas, and if you do not have it a angle grinder with a proper abrasive disk for grinding and a cut off head.

First Grind the round stock into a proper tapered horn leaving a bit of a original materials size on the back end. Next switch to the cutting disk and cut off a appropriate amount of the middle section of the I beam off. Next using the Map gas get top of the beam to a nice orange color,(it will take some time) take your hammer and hammer it to a 90 dgree angle. let it cool fully. then drill a hole into it the size of the horn. now the extra material should stop it from falling out and also serves to hold it in place for the next step. Next reheat the section back to orange and hammer down on it to hot form the extended piece to the horn. you may need to do some hardening to and tempering at the end to make sure it will not brake under the strain of working it.

Keep in mind I have not tried this out as I came up with it as I was writing it. I just use a Vise anvil hybrid and use the face of the vice as a shaping horn. However i am a Hobby bladesmith not a blacksmith.

Or you could shell out 15.05 for this Or you could ju st buy this and mod the horn to your liking.
and just grind down the horn. i use this one, however i kinda need to buy new nuts and bolts for it as I lost 2 well moving it to install the vise anvil hybrid i am now using.

u/wombatcombat11 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
its called gallium, its a metal that's when its at room temperature its a solid, but at body temperature is turns to a liquid. so you can make molds and fill them up with gallium then when someone picks it up it melts all over them, and you can do lots more with it!
for the games, i would love medal of honor, i have never played it and it looks like a lot of fun.

u/xX_Justin_Xx · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Gallium. The metal that melts in your hands. Not really related to your wishlist, but definitely cool. This is my item.

u/funkle1102 · 1 pointr/trees

This is the roll I was talking about. I just cut it down to size and place it in pre-existing containers. I'm not sure of any PTFE containers but I'm sure they're pretty pricy, comparatively. Plus the roll is useful if you like to press your own Rosin because you can re-use it for a long time without worrying about deterioration. Hope this helped!

u/dothosenipscomeoff · 1 pointr/Dabs

yea it sucks, i had to chuck a bunch of silicone too. but since i plan on dabbing exclusively for the rest of my life, i wanna limit repeated exposure to anything.

glass is great, so is ptfe(teflon). you can get a roll on amazon for like 30 bucks i use glass jars for liquidy stuff and ptfe sheets for shatters. just beware they're both slightly less nonstick than silicone. freezing helps a lot tho

u/Xethos · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts
u/Unholy_Spartan · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/Muleo · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

>The price is decent.

Not really, make sure you're thinking of the right thickness. The 0.03" sheet most people use from Amazon is $30 for 12x24".

CS Hyde's price is $40 for 12x12", and only 0.02" thick too. You're basically paying 5x as much as the Amazon price. Sure it already comes adhesive backed, but is that really worth it?

u/LiquidLogic · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I saw this solution called Wolfbite on Tested last year. Its supposed to work with PETG too to prevent warping, but I haven't personally used it.

You could also try a sheet of PEI over your glass bed.

u/CriminallyStupid · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

For the 1mm PEI sheets I have (roughly 12x12") I paid something like $15 each via Amazon (link The thicker sheets are far more expensive but there's absolutely no point in getting thicker sheets.

The prints pop right off once it has cooled down a little. I'd estimate once it gets down under 70°C it's simple to remove. I'm not all that patient and want to get at things as soon as they are done. It's not fun to try and remove prints while the bed is hot. I'm rarely successful at it. Also there's no need to worry about messing up the PEI if you decide to try and remove a print while it is hot. The PEI is still super hard even when 100°C.

u/basilis120 · 1 pointr/Bladesmith

Depends were you live and it may take a visit to the place to see what they really have. I found a local store that had tool steel, O1 and W2, in both round bar and flat bar for reasonable prices BUT that isn't listed on their website. They also had a bunch of small cut off pieces of various metals for art projects which was really handy as well.

I know you didn't want to buy on line but Amazon has O1 with free shipping. Might be able to get a better deal locally if you look around.

u/jp3592 · 1 pointr/Bladesmith

Here you go sorry I'm a little new to reddit I haven't quite figured out how to post tiny links like the other guy. Also for small-med size knives basically 10 in. and under I really like 3/32 for something bigger like a chopper go 3/16-1/4 in.

u/riftalicious · 1 pointr/oculus

Something like this placed on strategic places? (be sure not to cover the IR leds though)

u/badab00ms · 1 pointr/MouseReview

Would you be able to find which tape in particular u used via amazon? Would this be acceptable?

Let me also say that it looks great, you did a fantastic job!

u/mcfarlie6996 · 1 pointr/flashlight

I was thinking some 1/16" thick self adhesive rubber to attach to the mount so your flashlight looks stock. Of course you wouldn't need 33' here but it'll give you an idea of what to look for at the store.

u/HighMans · 1 pointr/DIY

I found this, but it's a bit expensive. Here

u/Prolapsed-Urethra · 1 pointr/MousepadReview

You could try an HDPE surface such as this one:

If you wipe it off with Lemon Pledge in addition, the glide should be even faster. Not my video, but you can see how well it glides here:

The only problem is that these surfaces may cause 3310 sensors to malfunction, so I'd suggest against buying one if you have a mouse that sports one of these.

u/BakaBakaBaaaka · 1 pointr/MouseReview

I use this now. I had to sand the edges and stuff, but it is a nice and large hardpad.
Here are some pictures that I took of it a while back.

u/Kayanota · 1 pointr/knives

I used things like these, my oven, and a YouTube tutorial. Kydex, when heated is very pliable, and cools solid. If you mess up, you can heat and remold again. You only need .06 thickness, any thicker is left to gun holsters. I then use an old belt to help mold a g-clip from a Kydex strip, and thats really it. I haven't bought a sheath in many years. Any further questions, just reply, I'll check back in the morning.

u/_FranklY · 1 pointr/casualiama

cough I checked UK because that's where I am, but that stuffs cheaper and easier to get in the US!

u/prideofpomona · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)

LED Lights: ($8)

Diffusers: ($26)

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.

u/justinj2000 · 1 pointr/DIY

Really recommend getting these too:

Helps mount to the bottom of the cabinet and the cover will diffuse the light a bit for a nicer look, especially if you have reflective countertops.

u/Arcendus · 1 pointr/battlestations

Have you thought about diffusing those LED strips using something like this? IMO exposed LEDs like that look a bit tacky, but hey, different strokes and all.

u/mojo3120 · 1 pointr/woodworking
u/Gr8pes · 1 pointr/lifx

You might consider putting it in a diffuser. i.e Diffuser

u/Intergalactic_Debris · 1 pointr/battlestations

Sorry I don't have personal recommendation because I don't have a battlestation myself or even a proper bedroom yet. Trying to move really soon here and start remedying that. I just lurk this sub in the meantime to get ideas on what I'm gonna do when I finally move.

Found these though and they seem to have good reviews. But I don't know if they work for the type of lights you have or not so I guess you need to do a bit of research on that.

u/MickeyPresto · 1 pointr/Hue

Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels With Diffuser, End Caps and Mounting Clips LED Strip Channels for Max 16mm Wide LED Lightstrip Light Mounting--LL-007-M

u/BloodyMess · 1 pointr/Hue

Thanks! I bought the linked diffusers here, as they were on sale:

I'll update based on the results, but it'll be a few weeks till they get installed.

u/NomBok · 1 pointr/Hue

Probably have to just search on Amazon, but I found one at least that reviews say fits it:

This company also seems to have a bunch that might be higher quality than the generic chinese ones on Amazon:

u/neonturbo · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

There are holders (LED Channel) meant for holding LED strips. You can get flat or angled holders.

u/Ar71k · 1 pointr/Hydroponics

You can build a wood box with a vent cover+mesh (on the side) for intake. For output, going out the bottom would work then a extension cord safety cover would do for the power.

TIMESETL 3pcs Stainless Steel Woven Wire 20 Mesh - 12"x8"(30x21cm) Metal Mesh Sheet 1mm Hole Great for Air Ventilation - A4

Amarine-made Stainless Steel Stamped Louvered Vent - Rectangular - 07722S - 4-1/2" X 5"

3 PK Black Extension Cord Safety Cover with Water-Resistant Seal

u/Thansen971 · 1 pointr/ballpython

I'm so sorry for bugging you so much but you're so helpful! That screen is out of stock until the end of the month so I'm going to order this.



Last question, what do you use for actual light?

u/neeners9223 · 1 pointr/howto

Yes its like a cut out square of metal mesh. I bought the ones linked below

u/clothing_throwaway · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Questions about liner material and lube...

For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.

For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.

u/thebidof · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Repost - original taken down due to URL shorteners


Keycaps: Dye-sub PBT keycaps

Lube: Krytox 205g0

Switches: Milky Gateron Yellows with TX Film

Stabilizers: Plate-mount GMK stabilizers (clipped and lubed with 205g0)

Sound dampening: Neoprene


Filmed and recorded using a Galaxy S10 in 4k