(Part 2) Best abrasive & finishing products according to redditors
We found 392 Reddit comments discussing the best abrasive & finishing products. We ranked the 187 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![3M Scotch-Brite XL-UW Unitized Silicon Carbide Soft Deburring Wheel - Fine Grade - Arbor Attachment - 6 in Diameter - 1/2 in Center Hole - 1/2 in Thickness - 13719 [PRICE is per WHEEL]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61dot7LtLzL.jpg)
Hello,
Professional amateur rollerskier here:
Step 1. Pick up some rollerski specific carbide steel tips such as these
Step 2. Use them and keep those tips SHARP! So many people do not sharpen their tips before they go out to their detriment.
For sharpening I reccomend buying a dremel tool such as this and then using these tips
Step 3. Sharpen often! In my opinion, it is better to sharpen a little bit every time than a lot every once in a while.
I hope this has been helpful!
Well done. Now pick up a concrete grinding wheel, (the type that fits on a corded drill) and work it out nice and even.
example: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4961-Concrete-Masonry-Grinding/dp/B000R92HO6
If the pieces are pretty far off I would make a router sled
https://i.imgur.com/A6y2Zae.jpg
lots of youtube videos showing how to make and use these. I have flattened and thicknessed planed many boards with mine.
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If you only need a little bit of flattening, or want to clean up a board that you just routed down: Order some adhesive sandpaper roll
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-740001201-2-Inch-Adhesive-Backed-Sanding/dp/B0000223SK
Obtain a flat strip of granite from a local marble countertop place, they gave me a leftover for free. 4x30". Apply the sandpaper to the granite. Pencil cross hatches onto your board and sand until they all disapear.
$22 for enough pins to last long after you're dead. The HF tumbler is $60 before coupon. And you need Lemishine. Thats it.
something like this on a die grinder would be your best cheapest bet, a lot of the guys ive seen use a bigger version of that with an electric straight die grinder
and no not jsut clean of grease, you want shiny bright metal
If it's longer than a couple inches it's going to take forever and burn up quite a few bits using a Dremel. Diamond is the correct bit material. I'd use an angle grinder with a 4 inch grinding wheel like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CRH9GN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Cz7OBbPQJ9MW7
Bronze wool, finest i could find with a quick poke around Amazon
I’d use something like this.
2" x 1" x 1/4" Shank Mounted Flap Wheels, 80 Grit Aluminum Oxide - 5 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M295SA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iiMnDbWJYS0R6
You got a link to that? Sounds funny lol I'm not 100% sure i'm doing it the "right" way but i'm trying to do as best I can.
It was a lot of work, getting in all the cracks and crevices on the frame was a pain. Eventually invested in one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Forney-72730-Crimped-2-Inch----008-Inch/dp/B001GM8POY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475185920&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+drill) and it made life a lot easier
If you do pursue diamond stones, here is a list of what I have.. I am not sure if this the be-all-end-all, and I can definitely recommend trying lots of things, because sharpening seems to be something so personal. Just wanted to collate in one place what I have settled on thus far.
This is one of the cheaper setups. I think it would be interesting to try ceramics at the top end, and better leather for a multi-strop setup.. Just ran out of funds after trying several failed other methods ;)
OP gave you some good advice about research. I'd add that if you can somehow find someone local who can show you what sharp really is, that would be a big bonus. I haven't found that person yet myself, because I am a hermit.
Stones:
Paddles:
Stropping:
Sandpaper:
If you want a mirror finish this paste will even polish Tungsten Carbide!
https://www.amazon.ca/TEMO-Diamond-Lapping-Compound-Syringe/dp/B004HR5PJ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=.5+micron&qid=1557882014&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Canned air will help, but you likely need something with bristles too. A skinny scrub brush that can get in there, or put a nylon bristle brush in a drill - https://www.amazon.com/Century-Drill-Tool-77443-Abrasive/dp/B0058I3DUS/ref=sr_1_5
It might be an easy fix, other people have had good success with similar issues (based on the amazon reviews)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009XUAA4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485096706&sr=8-3&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=glass+polishing+compound
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQJOVRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uwNZAb76PQTM8
These are the ones I use. They work well.
>Think I’m gonna pass on a rimfire can cuz I just don’t want to deal with the hassle of cleaning it.
Rimfire is honestly the best round suppressed. Incredibly fun and cheap to shoot. You will be missing out if you don’t try it.
As far as cleaning:
$45 Harbor Freight dual drum rock tumbler after 25% coupon codes that are common
and $18 in stainless steel pins
Fill up a drum with 1 lb of pins, half warm water, and some dish soap. Throw in the 22lr baffles (only if they are 17-4 stainless or titanium, do NOT do this with aluminum baffles). 2-4 hours and they are 90% clean. Just wipe down and reinstall. They don’t have to be perfect, as slightly dirty and they sound better anyway.
Great work and great write up!
You can try these on your dremel to take out more material in the valleys but finishing with the files is always needed.
I don't really know. I've never had very good luck with the stones. I think the most useful dremel accessories for grinding away material is either use the sanding drums like these or use rasps/burrs coated in diamond or tungsten carbide like these.
For the brushes, the silver ones are steel or stainless steel, and the brown ones are usually brass. They'll have different effects on different materials based on the hardness. I've used the stainless brushes on steel before to clean it and kind of give it a texture.
For buffing/polishing of things like painted surfaces you'll want something like this or this and some sort of buffing compound. Most dremel accessory kits usually come with 1 or 2 buffing attachments.
I'm not sure if this is sarcasm because the idea is thought to be stupid. Or genuine because the idea is good.
All I know is that it works well for me.
I place the bearing on a MYY bearing remover, and using the cone shaped polishing bit seen here, I touch the dremel to the outer race and spin away. I feel this is fairly safe if you use standard power tool safety precautions. I always wear my glasses!
Wire brush works, but is kinda sketchy; the bristles fly off a lot. A cup grinding wheel is much way better & safer. A dust shroud is money well-spent, too.
You know with just an ounce or two of 91% alcohol and salt (I like coarse kosher salt) plus ~10 seconds of shaking and it is all done. I plug up the down stem hole with TP, and when I'm done, I use the left over alcohol with a paper towel to clean up the resin that gets in the sink from cleaning the bowl. I use a nylon pipe brush for the down stem, just drop the down stem in the bottle of alcohol and go to town with the brush. Entire process takes no more then 3-5 minutes.
You should just buy a fine 3m scotchbrite wheel and skip the sandpaper steps. It'll speed up your process to just a few minutes per club.
Then you can upgrade to a sandblasting cabinet and use a fine grit glass bead and get a professional looking finish quickly.
Yup. It's basically a thin (1/8") interface pad.
5": http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013E0R6Y
6": http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UETZH0
Here's a starter kit for 6" with a sample of grits and a pad protector: www.amazon.com/dp/B001BKXW8A
After sanding down my pans I can tell you that I would never want to do it by hand. It would probably take you hours and hours of sanding.
Might be better off asking a friend or relative if you can borrow their sander for a day.
Or if a drill is more in the realm of something doable, I linked to some stuff in an earlier comment.
> If you want to go with another method outlined here you can use a regular drill. Tons of uses for a drill other than sanding down your skillet.
> Drill $30
> Coarse Wire Brush attatchment $9
> * Fine Wire Brush attatchment $6
> Total of $45
Here is the mobile version of your link
You can try a flooring adhesive remover like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-Easy-Release-1-Gal-Adhesive-Remover-12250/202046244
Or go with a grinder and a diamond wheel for polishing concrete
Something like this: HUELE 4-Inch Concrete Turbo Diamond Grinding Cup Wheel for Angle Grinder 12 Segs Heavy Duty ,Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CRH9GN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mvQOBb2YJ2XXX
I never really had luck with the adhesive remover but I know those diamond cup wheels are the quickest.
For some links (again, not to endorse amazon, but...):
https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464840389&sr=8-1&keywords=lansky+sharpeners
I use this sharpener system, also with an auxiliary diamond extra coarse sharpener and leather strop.
For the initial edge setting, I use this surgisharp edge tool: https://www.amazon.com/Surgi-Sharp-Universal-Angle-Guide-SS10/dp/B00IUPMWEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464840566&sr=8-1&keywords=surgisharp
It lets me put 20 degrees or whatever on the edge with a belt, and then use the stones.
Finally, I use a 1x30 stropping belt (https://www.amazon.com/SURGI-SHARP%C2%AE-Leather-Belt-Abrasive-Stick/dp/B000R6RLAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464841655&sr=8-1&keywords=leather+stropping+belt) to get a super sharp edge at the end.
It's a little expensive, but I think it's worth it. I can shave with the knives I sharpen.
Thanks a bunch; I found it on Amazon.
That's one of those little jobs I'm happy to leave to someone else : )
Yeah, if you never do any DIY house projects, it's probably not the best first one. But, it was easier than I thought. I used an inexpensive concrete cup wheel (this one: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4961-Concrete-Masonry-Grinding/dp/B000R92HO6/) on edge, because I didn't want to pay for a fancy purpose-specific crack chasing attachment. Best tip: wet the concrete first. It minimizes dust, and it makes this cup wheel less aggressive and easier to control.
I'm currently working on filling a seam between the concrete garage bay of my shop, and the wood floor side of the shop, which is bordered by 2x4 lumber in the floor. So there's this 1/2"-1" gap, with concrete on one side of the floor, and 2x4 on the other. I'm thinking of just using the same technique: grind down a bit and then fill with 2-part epoxy. Sound reasonable? I'm tempted to use Bondo all-purpose putty, because it specifically says it's for wood and concrete, but I'm hesitant to use it on a surface that not only gets walked on, but has equipment rolled over it. What do you think?
I was thinking more like this
I really like the Bosch 6in Sanders with the turbo mode it makes it almost a grinder with much better control. Also forget sandpaper and do yourself a favor and get Abranet sanding nets and a pad protector. Those two pieces of equipment will cut down your sanding time on this job by about 1/2. Also you will use a ton less sand paper even though the nets are more expensive you will spend less.
You can use West system and spend the extra money but there are plenty of other very good epoxies available for much less than West system that work just as well or better.
Forget using their fairing compound and by the stuff from Jamestown that is premixed. It works very well and saves you endless amounts of stiring, you also won't get the pinholes you get using the west system.
Once you sand it down do an acid treatment or naval jelly to help convert any rust you can't get to a stable compound. Then do the epoxy right after.
Good luck it's not an impossible job by any stretch and is good practice to learn and play with epoxy and fairing things. This will help in any future deck repairs or if you decide to paint the boat or another in the future! Have fun learning. And check out Boatworks Today with Andy for any fiberglass work and great how to's. He's one of my YouTube favorites!
https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/random-orbit-sanders-1250devs-27677-p/
http://www.uscomposites.com/
https://www.amazon.com/Mirka-9A-241-APRP-6-Inch-Abranet-Assortment/dp/B001BKXW8A
I bought some of these and like them well enough, but I haven't used anything else so don't have much to compare by.
If you have the money I like using formula 420. It's only $8 at my local smoke shop, and will clean my bong at least 10 times. It always works great, and you don't need to use that much. I would also invest in a pipe brush, they work great for down stems / joints.
Not quite the right sub, we deal predominantly with glass art however, there is something that may work if the scratches are not too deep. Cerium Oxide Powder can be used as demonstrated on This Page to polish glass. You don't necessarily need an expensive electric buffing tool if they arent deep it will just take some elbow grease. Alternatively if you have an electric drill you can get Buffing Wheels and Cerium oxide powder combos as well
All things considered though I'd first contact the manufacturer and ask about warranty options for a broken (smashed not scratched) jar or if they can supply you with a new one and at what cost. sometimes the manufacturers will really stand behind their products no questions asked. Had huntington Beach send me 2 new crockpots because mine went bad after only a year, never hurts to try.
This is the angle grinder I have: Porter Cable PC60TAG
And these are the cutting disks I bought for it: DeWalt DW8061B5 Cutting Wheel
Will be cutting O1, D2, 1055 High Carbon, and, eventually, Gucci shit like CPM S35VN, all prior to heat treating.
Safe?
Are you using a cutting wheel or the grinding wheel? This is the tool, https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW8061B5-0-045-Inch-Stainless-Cutting/dp/B005B8LZ14/ It will do a much better job than a regular grinding wheel.
I would jb weld a plate, then bolt the safe to the floor with the plate against the wall. If they can take the safe home, nothing you do will stop them from getting it open, just like you are doing now.
>i have ammunition in my safe
Grinding/cutting generates heat and sparks. This worries me. I dont want you to make the front page after blowing up your safe. Please be careful.
Should be just fine. If it bothers you, and you really want to get it off, I've had good luck with one of these wheels mounted in a drill. It's basically a high-powered brush version of the green scotch-brite pad you'll find on a kitchen sponge. Removes a very small amount of material, but it's basically polishing. It'll leave a smoother surface than you currently have, and everything will wash right out.
Thoughts on a cup wheel? Might be even faster. I kinda want to do this to my lodges now. They’re definitely not as smooth as some of my antiques.
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW4774-Double-Row-Diamond-Cup-Grinding-Wheel/dp/B003XXE0RA
I may have to be the guinea pig and give one of these a rip.
Whenever I get a new Benchmade I disassemble it and polish the washers and blade tang with a Lanksy leather strop and 0.5 micron temo paste. Polishing the washers and tang make a huge difference.
Lansky Leather Stropping Polishing Hone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BS0OCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3t9xxb2NYNDXM
TEMO 0.5 Micon 5gram Diamond Polish Lapping Paste Compound Syringe Final Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HR5PJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6u9xxbSV7G3DE
Need a hard backing and some way to keep your sandpaper pulled as tight as you can. I have one of these and it works pretty well but I also made sort of a hand sanding block out of some oak with some u-bolts I can tighten down. It's also important have fairly clean lines going into hand sanding.
I would get a sheet of plate glass and a long strip of sandpaper. Then as long as your lumber is reasonably flat to begin with it shouldn't take too much to clean up the surface/make it flat for gluing. I haven't actually done this, but I think it would be worth a try.