Best lab & scientific products according to redditors
We found 4,084 Reddit comments discussing the best lab & scientific products. We ranked the 1,634 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 4,084 Reddit comments discussing the best lab & scientific products. We ranked the 1,634 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
If I were to start over and buy new equipment, one of those all-in-one systems would be very attractive. My only concern with them is I don't have a high voltage outlet and I wouldn't want to deal with an under powered system.
For a traditional system I'd do something like this:
Total $985
Bonus Upgrades:
Total $905
And you'll want various fittings and hoses and more kegs and a stir paddle.
Get mechanical grade alcohol, 99%, get it in the pressurized spray can, and regular bottle. Disassemble the GPU and get any parts that got coolant on them out of the system.
Get a clean plastic container that can fit the parts you've gotten wet. Put the alcohol in there from the non pressurized n bottle. Place parts in bath of alcohol, use the pressurized alcohol and qtips to clean your parts. Once done, let dry for at least 48 hours in front of a fan.
I've recovered an entire x99 system this way. Good luck.
Edit
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/
Spray
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8PL1Q
Here's the 2014 Water Quality Report. It's a good read.
The bulk of the water testing takes place directly at the 3 major water facilities in SD. As you may already know the lead contamination in Flint did not happen at the water treatment facility, but rather in the pipes that lead to homes. The city
inadvertentlychanged the water pH and failed to add an additive that would prevent the old pipes from corroding.The way the city of San Diego test for these metals is by sampling the water in 50 homes. According to their results, we are good and the water is safe. If you want to do your due diligence, buy one of these cheap drinking water tests that include testing for iron, lead and copper among other things.
I did, and confirmed some of their results.
-----------
EDIT 2: Perchlorate is more of a health concern, and it's not mentioned on the report. Is it regulated by the city?
EDIT: Lead and copper results from 2014.
> Lead and Copper:
>
> Lead and copper enter drinking water primarily through plumbing materials. Exposure
> to lead and copper may cause health problems ranging from stomach distress to brain
> damage. In 1991, the EPA published the Lead and Copper Rule to control lead and copper
> in drinking water. The rule requires us to monitor drinking water at customer taps. If
> lead concentrations exceed an action level of 15 ppb or copper concentrations exceed an
> action level of 1.3 ppm in more than 10 percent of taps sampled, i.e. the 90th percentile,
> we would be required to undertake a number of additional actions to inform the public
> and control corrosion.
>
> In 2014, 57 customers provided samples from their taps to the City of San Diego for lead
> and copper analysis. The results of these tests are presented here; for each parameter,
> one of the 57 sites had a result above the Action Level. Because less than 10 percent of
> our results were above the Action Levels for Lead and Copper, no additional actions are required.
> Lead and Copper Rule monitoring must be conducted every three years – our next
> study will be conducted in 2017.
>
> If present, elevated levels of lead can cause serious health problems, especially for pregnant
> women and young children. Lead in drinking water is primarily from materials and components
> associated with service lines and home plumbing. The City of San Diego is responsible for
> providing high quality drinking water, but cannot control the variety of materials used in
> plumbing components. When your water has been sitting for several hours, you can minimize
> the potential for lead exposure by flushing your tap for 30 seconds to two minutes before
> using water for drinking or cooking. If you are concerned about lead in your water, you may
> wish to have your water tested. Information on lead in drinking water, testing methods, and
> steps you can take to minimize exposure is available from the Safe Drinking Water Hotline or
> at epa.gov/safewater/lead
Ninety-one percent may be a lot better than 70%, but I wouldn't call it ideal.
FWIW, I have a bottle of this 99.953%-pure anhydrous isopropyl alcohol, which is even better.
Definitely a useless talent as you could just buy some.
Hell, they even make fake tampons designed to sneak alcohol into venues in. It's totally possible.
It is an unblown plastic soda bottle preform. They're sold as water tight small containers so this could have been used for anything.
Syringe
https://smile.amazon.com/Bstean-Syringe-Blunt-Tip-Needle/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524590844&sr=8-4&keywords=blunt+syringe&dpID=518U71I8%252BzL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Here you go
Karter Scientific 208U2 Plastic Test Tube Rack for 15/17 mm Tubes, Holds 50, Detachable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Z4QWIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pWFDCbW4RRGJ5
$5.50 on Amazon and Prime eligible.
Eighth swirl attempt. Trial and error = improvement.
It's an aluminum enclosure, so paint adhesion is always a potential problem. I used self-etching primer - it chemically etches the surface of the aluminum, providing a good base coat that other paints can stick to.
After that, I put down a base coat of intense orange. I've found that swirled paint jobs tend to have a lot of see-through areas, so you want to plan the bottom layer strategically. I let this dry for about 3 days before I proceeded to the dip because enamel spray paints stay tacky for so long.
For dipping, I put a large plastic trash bag into a 3 gallon bucket before adding the water. The trash bag prevents paint from mucking up your bucket, which is important if your bucket is also used for serving chilled canned beverages at fabulous summer barbecues.
I filled the bucket with room temperature water. I added 7.5g Borax per liter of water to reduce the surface tension and allow the paint to flow over the water's surface.
For paints, I used Humbrol brand enamel paints. I was able to find them at my local hobby shop even though they weren't listed as a retailer on the Humbrol website. They should be available at most serious hobby / model airplane stores, as they're one of the classic brands of model paint that have been around almost since plastic models appeared on the market.
If doing 3-color swirls, I think think one could dip about 10 pedals from three 14mL cans of paint. The consistency should be like warm syrup: not thin like water, but able to drip or drizzle off the end of a coffee stir stick (the smaller size makes them easier to use than a popsicle stick because the cans are so little). Stir really well. If too thick, thin with mineral spirits / white spirit. I dropped it in with a plastic pipette - about 10-30 drops were required, depending on how thick the paint was. (I also tried thinning with white gas / naphtha, but it did not work as well. Despite the similarity in name - white spirit vs white gas - they are not equivalent!)
I'm going to stop posting links now; the section above is where I had the most trouble finding quality instruction in the Internet when I was figuring out how to do this, but there are plenty of YouTube videos that demonstrate the actual swirling/dipping process described below.
I drop the paints into the water by dipping a stir stick into the paint and letting it drip off the end into the water. Drop the paints into the water from as close to the surface as possible - if you drop from too high, the paint will plunge through the surface and sink to the bottom. The first few drops on the surface might thin out into a fine sheen on the surface of the water, but eventually they'll saturate the surface with a fine layer of paint and you'll be able to start getting good dots and ropes of color. I noticed that different colors seem to behave differently as they hit the surface - it's smart to try some experimental dips to master your paints before actually dipping your enclosure.
Work quickly. The paint is drying on the surface of the water even as you drop it in. It doesn't even take a minute for a thin coat of floating paint to tack up.
Swirl carefully with a stick to make your designs and move the paint where you want it. Be aware that the more you swirl, the more paint you will end up with on your stir stick instead of on your work piece.
Dip your pedal slowly and carefully (on the end of a stick or a coat hanger so your hand doesn't end up getting swirled too). The paint will be pulled onto the surface of the pedal and dragged underwater with the pedal. After it's completely submerged, use crunched up newspaper to clear an open spot on the surface of the water to pull the pedal back out so it doesn't end up with swirls on top of swirls.
Pull the pedal out. Blow or shake the water off. By the time you're finished doing that, thin areas of paint will basically be dry, medium areas will be tacky, and thick areas will be on their way. Hang it up to dry in a wind/dust free area.
If you hate it, wipe it off with mineral spirits within an hour or two and start over.
If you like it, let it dry a couple days and then top coat with something tough.
Honestly? You will screw up once or twice when you first start, but generally, it's a fairly easy process and you'll save yourself a lot of money in the long run by doing it yourself.
Just to give you an idea of how I do it, here are the items I use. If you have Amazon Student/Prime, it'll be even easier:
For me, I mix it in small tupperware (obviously, I don't use this for storing food at anymore). For 2 small packets of Shiro samples (or even a minijar (both of which fit comfortably in the aforementioned palette)), I use a mixture of no more than 3 drops of jojoba oil and use alcohol to mix it into a paste, of which I then place into the aluminum palette.
You don't want to use an excessive amount of the oil because then it will almost never dry and dilute the color. Whereas, alcohol evaporates out faster so you want to use more of the alcohol than the jojoba oil (or whatever binding solution you choose). Once it gets dried down to a certain point, you can press if you choose to, but I never feel I need to when I do it this way because it's generally pretty uniform.
I know dorm rooms are crampy, but you can do this anywhere once you get the hang of it and for cheaper than having someone else do it (especially if you take into consideration the excessive shipping costs--which will be more than the cost of what you'd be using for some of these products alone).
ETA: Added details.
25% phosphoric acid isn't particularly dangerous, and it's not horribly corrosive. Plastic or glass will be fine. I wouldn't let it sit on metal for an extended period of time, so be careful if you plan to use metal needles with your syringe. Plastic transfer pipettes work nicely, though. I like this style because it allows you to eyeball the amount you're adding without needing anything like a syringe.
7.4
Might want to consider one of these if you are color blind. pH Meter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CLBWRCA?pc_redir=1407650997&robot_redir=1
I think this is it https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I13ZNIC/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1518324139&sr=1-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
Here's the short and dirty list:
That's the quick run down. It's a blast to do, and a helluva lot cheaper than buying at your local B&M! The up-front cost is a little steep, but for about $100 you can get to making some great juice.
Even if they aren't, it's awfully easy to remove the cap from a bottle, empty it, fill it with something else, and then replace the cap with a new cap that has an unbroken seal.
http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Screw-Caps-Bottle-28mm/dp/B0064ODVLG
A couple bucks on Amazon could go a long way for trolling your religious family members and friends.
If you buy even 5 30mL bottles a month of premium juice, just use that money at the start to BUILD A KIT. Don't buy one, they all have shit flavors that will turn you off to DIY. Almost all nicotine vendors sell diluted nicotine that you can just mix with flavors, but it's not a cost-efficient purchase. If you want to save money, buy 120mL of 100mg($19 at nudenicotine) nicotine and dilute it yourself. A gallon of VG is $14.49. Find a few recipes with good feedback here and order the flavors for them from bullcityvapor, gremlindiy, or ecigexpress. If you don't mind the extra work, and want to save a bit more, buy syringes instead of a scale, and clean and reuse the syringes.
I have a few recipes I could give out, [VG and PG are on Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-Pharmaceutical/dp/B00PSGWHIO/ref=sr_1_13_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1524904013&sr=8-13&keywords=vegetable+glycerine). and excigexpress is where I buy all my flavors. You also need a beaker set, .01 g scale, syringes, medical gloves, glass bottles for steeping, and plastic bottles
Edit: links
next time get some pipettes so you won't spill it! https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0
Test your water for lead if you are worried about it. That's really the result you care about. There may be small sections of pipe or solder that contaminate the water even if you don't have large sections of lead pipe.
https://smile.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=pd_sim_79_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BNCFD5MHAKWG0RD9Z30X
It cost like $15 to buy a water test. I drink a lot of unfiltered water so I got one. The test said I'm all good. Worth buying and seeing if you should invest in some type of filtration system.
> Rubbing alcohol (99% if you can get it)
I'll just leave this here
A comment I submitted in a different thread:
Awesome! I've had my pax over a year and I'm still loving it. It still hits like a champ and the cleaning is to me easier than its made out to be. The stealthiness of it amazing. I've told a bouncer its a portable battery or an ecig and gotten no questions. Just a heads up the very first time cooking a fresh bowl definitely smells like weed. All vaping smells some, but that first heating and first few hits are by far the strongest. After that is gets much less pungent. If I'm packing it at home before going to a venue I'm nervous about, I'll take the first 2-3 hits at home. Out of a full oven I can get 3-6 good sessions with stirring, depending on the weed and people.
Here's a couple tips I've picked up.
Be careful of the mouthpiece spring. It's deceptively strong and will launch your mouthpiece to dark places. Also, when pushing down the mouthpiece to lock it, the "sweet spot" is juuuuust before all the way down. It's hard to explain. But you can actually push the mouthpiece down too far and it won't always lock. My first time using it I was pissed because it wasn't locking. But I was pushing it too hard and past the lock point. Pushing it down lighter was the answer.
Dental brushes dipped in alcohol work great for scrubbing out the oven and mouthpiece and can be purchased at any store/pharmacy. The lube is food grade propylene glycol and can be purchased at certain stores or online for cheap. Such as http://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Pint-Free-Shipping/dp/B005F5KYM4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418272765&sr=8-3&keywords=propylene+glycol. Rub a few drops on/inside the mouthpiece tube every time you clean it to keep it from sticking.
When you're cleaning it be careful of getting the temp change button wet. If it gets wet, it will think it's on and the oven will start heating. That sucks if you are cleaning it and don't notice.
I've found its better to Charge the pax right side up with the charger on top. It helps makes sure that no resin leaks up the tube and is more stable.
If you rotate it on its long axis (doing a barrel roll) 3 times, it enters party mode and the front light flashes. This means it won't stop heating if it's kept still. Normally if it's kept still for a few seconds it goes "idle" and stops heating. The flashing light also looks pretty cool. You can also play Simon says against your pax by turning it on its long axis 7 times I think. YouTube has a good pax Simon says video with the steps. Both tricks are great when showing your pax to friends.
Amazon US Cleaner
Everyone has different budgets but Amazon has them for $35
Definitely looks like a geocache made from a soda bottle preform. would explain the 'fish eye lens' and the soda bottle style cap.
https://www.amazon.com/Booze-Tubes-Tampon-Wrappers-1-Ounce/dp/B00CLBWRCA
I use this test tube rack from Amazon and it suits my needs well.
Edit: the comments from users on Amazon show a lot of pictures with razors in use.
They are actually made for soda bottle production. You can usually find big packs for cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY
Hey, thanks! Yes, that's the one I was thinking of. I just couldn't find it. Idk about better though. They're different for sure, but they're both made from bottle preforms, so the tube strength should be the same.
The pocket reel comes with:
The one I linked comes with:
So, with the pocket reel, you get 4 hooks instead of 6, 1 bobber instead of 2, 4 sinkers instead of 8, metal spinners instead of jigs, but almost twice as much line and a "knot guide".
Seems like about a wash to me. I should note that I don't have a horse in this race, I've never used either and am not affiliated with either shop. The kit I posted was one I found a month or so ago while looking for the one you posted.
Personally, I went with neither and just bought some bottle preforms for about a buck a piece, filled a couple with the fishing gear I already had and used the rest for other camping gear: spices/oil for cooking, match case, pill bottles, tinder case, etc.
40 gallons is going to be pushing on what you can accomplish with DIY, so I would avoid going that route, as you wont wind up happy.
As for what you will need, it is really very simple, but not particularly cheap. You need a CO2 tank, a regualtor, bubble counter, diffusor and gas line.
CO2. Go with a 5 or 10 lb tank. If you can find used even better as most places just swap tanks when you fill them, so you get your new shiny aluminum tank, bring it to get filled, they take it and give you a banged up used one back. A 5lb tank should last 3-4 months depending on how many bubbles per second you are pumping
Regulator with Bubble Counter and solenoid, the solenoid is what shuts off flow of CO2 at night, when plugged into a timer. Plants don't utilize CO2 at night, so continuing to pump it into the tank is just wasting gas. Keep it on the same cycle as your lights, or better yet, and hour behind, so it turns on and hour before the lights come on, and off an hour before the lights go off.
Diffuser, you can spend a little or a lot here. I dont really see the need to spend a ton with this part. You do want to see if the unit has a check valve though, and if not, you will need to add one between the bubble counter and diffuser to prevent a back siphoning.
Gas tubing very important you get tubing rated for CO2 gas. Do not use regular air line of the gas will eat right through it
> - 10 mL syringes to help measure nutes
I am quite fond of these 100 pack of 3ml pipettes.
I would get a cheap precision scale instead of syringes (must have 0.01g precision!). Then a big pack of disposable pipettes.
And bottles. Many bottles. LDPE dripper bottles. Or glass.
Depends on what I'm looking for.
Pens For the cheapest deals on readily available imported pens, it's hard to beat Amazon (esp. with Prime Shipping). And of course, there's all the links in the sidebar. But rarer or more exclusive imports are apparently cheaper to acquire at Engeika. I've never used them, though I've heard great things.
Ink Samples The Goulet's have an incredible selection and a really clean website (now with a few bugs, but still aesthetically pleasing), but only 2ml samples. Both Brian Anderson and Todd Nussbaum do 3ml samples, and they also carry Sailor inks (a significant gap in Goulet's coverage). Todd, in particular, is shipping out of AZ, so he's a day or two faster for us impatient west-coasters. Anderson is shipping out of WI, so he's probably closer to you than either the Goulet's or Todd.
Paper Depends on how fancy you want it. My university's bookstore carries Rhodia, so I employ my tax-free discount there. But for really "luxury" papers (as pretentious as that sounds) you can't beat Paperforfountainpens.com. They repackage Japan's Tomoegawa "Tomoe River" paper into notebooks and A5 pads. But mostly I'm writing on the "absorbent-as-paper-towels" shit notepads my work has for free.
Nib tuning/cleaning supplies Almost exclusively at the Goulet's. They have a great selection, sure, but more than that, every single tuning product they sell they have a video teaching you how and when to use it. I did buy a sample tube holder from Amazon instead of the Goulet's, but that's because it holds 50 (to their 40) and I'm already starting into my third 50-tube holder.
You guys are all trying waaaay too hard with this. Let me introduce you to REPLACEMENT CAPS!
> Soak the cut off bottle top in the hot water for 30 seconds or so. This will make the plastic pliable enough that you can pull off the intact cap and sealing ring without breaking the seal.
All that work for a 28 cent cap?
http://amzn.com/B0064ODVLG
Get yourself a Bulb Syringe for a few bucks from your local drug store or dollar store and try the soak again and then a flush with the bulb syringe. Amazon and pen shops such as Goulet also sell them.Goulet's video about pen flushing.
Next step could be an ultrasonic cleaner
Using Amazon and Medlabsupply for ease (two stop shop). I havent found much better prices (maybe a few cents..) in my homebrew career. My setup is a bit more expensive than whats listed lol.
Equipment
Consumables
Sterilization - dry heat stove method
It's pretty easy to clean this.
ESD circuit board brushes: http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Handle-Circuit-Static-Brushes/dp/B00BM38YPW
99.95% Alcohol: http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/
Distilled Water can be used as well, just give it a few days to dry out.
Dip the brushes in the alcohol, don't just add the alcohol to the board, you'll end up using too much.
Make sure to wait an hour or so to guarantee that its all evaporated.
Another vote here for the propylene glycol available on Amazon. This is what I got, works beautifully.
holy crap this is scary as fuck! please please please be careful. it's very obvious you don't know what you are doing. remember 2 grams is 2,000 pills. don't try to eyeball doses or keybumps or anything like that. first step: get a milligram scale!!!! you said earlier you have a gemini 20, that's would work just fine. then you are going to need a graduated cylinder, and some PG. i do 2mg per 1 ml of pg. so i weigh out 100mg of etizolam, carefully measure out 50 ml of pg then mix the two in a vial. just shake it hard core then let it rest overnight then shake it some more (takes it a while to dissolve in PG). make sure to store the vial outside of sunlight because that damages the etizolam (i wrapped electrical tape around my travel vial). then get a transfer pipette or oral syringe and make your dose (half a ml for 1 pill, 1ml for 2 pills). tastes horrible, best to put it in a drink or have a chaser handy. PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!!! it's hard to measure out under half a ml accurately so 10mg a ml means you HAVE to do at least 5 at a time. it's just a good recipe to extreme and dangerous addiction and would make it even harder to taper off.
If you do it like that, I can see your math. However, if you do it like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WUPUYCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YptHxb7EHCH6V
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KqtHxbP3G3QW7
http://www.carolinaxtract.com/#!product/prd12/3738421821/120ml-sample-100mg-ml-nic-html
http://store.flavorah.com/All-Vaping-Flavors_c_8.html (Or Bull City or ECX or Gremlin, etc. - let's call it $50 in flavoring)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UGBG20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TxtHxbBFM078P
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B9V20W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NBtHxb23GQ99V
You can make ~4L/4000ml of 3mg/ml for ~$150 or a little under $0.04/ml, so ~$4.50 per 120ml with supplies left over.
Maybe I'm mistaken in thinking ~$150 isn't large scale but I'm sure many people on here spend at least that much in a six month period (five 250ml of Blue Dot will run you $187).
Tips.
What you see in the photo will last the average cigar smoker 10+ years and cost you under $25.
Here are a couple of links:
http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-PROPYLENE-GLYCOL-QUART-Propylene-Glycol/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404234989&sr=8-3&keywords=propylene+glycol
http://www.amazon.com/Water-absorbing-crystal-polymer-Insect/dp/B0051V22VS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404235071&sr=8-4&keywords=soil+crystals
On that starter kit you mentioned... It's fine, but it isn't the best route if you think you might stick with this.
First up, read up on mixing by weight. /u/Botboy141 has a fantastic write up on it. It ends up being cheaper and faster long term versus mixing with syringes. Take into account that you should use different syringes for each flavor and you'll have to clean them after use... The cleaning murders the time mixing and that kit doesn't have many syringes, so you'll be cleaning a lot.
A break down for you on mixing by weight... It isn't 100% I'd bet, but it should be close enough.
Scale: 16.99 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012TEQMG - this is the one I have, but the auto shut off is a friggin annoyance. Pick up the one Botboy141 recommends for the extra 14 or so dollars. So let's go with 30
Pipettes: 10.00 for 500 1ml. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CD2I50
10 for 200 3ml (you can probably find a better price) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQTSE0
Dispensing bottles x2: 7.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B5139AG
Pg: 13.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F5OJG6
Vg: 13.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C7MTLA
Nicotine: 100mg/120ml 19.00 http://www.nudenicotine.com/product/500ml-100mgml-100-pg-nicotine-base-for-mixing-only/ 50 30ml ldpe bottles: 11.00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F098JJA
$113, call it 130 with some shipping here and there.
Now add flavors, assuming you get 50 bucks of 8ml vials from wizard labs and you're running closer to 200. This will get you a good bunch of juice and the next time around you'll probably get 4oz bottles of your favorite flavors and maybe some more pg vg nic and possibly pipettes. It's worth the money, but syringes will be cheaper up start costs. You'd probably save about 70 bucks to start, but it'll cost you in frustration and time, which isn't worth the pain from all I remember with them.
Edit: I say wizard only because of the sample size of the vials... You can use bull city, tfa and lorann direct for 4oz and up on a bunch, or any other vendor really. But 50 in wizard with shipping will probably get you 25 or 30 vials.
Syringes will take away the scale and dispensing bottles and pipettes, so 60 bucks actually, and you'll add about 30 back in a bunch of 1ml, a few 3 or 5 and a couple of 10 for pg/vg and14ga blunt needles.
Hopefully that helps a bit. I can reformat it later on the computer if need be.
Order this and you'll be golden. Add some vodka or white rum to the bottle and you can get in scott free. 8 bucks for peace of mind is worth it IMO.
That's why you have to buy one of these suckers
It's pretty easy to make phytosomes actually. Just liquify some lecithin (equal amount to the amount of substance you're trying to prepare) by letting it sit in warm water than blending it. Add your desired substance to the mixture, then pour some of the solution (I think doing small amounts at a time works better than doing the whole thing at once) into the ultrasonic cleaner, turn it on and stir it as it is running.
Bam! You have your own phytosome complexes :)
So, for funsies I tested the Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid with these paper pH strips and got a pH of ~5. Paula's website lists a pH of 3.5-3.9. The strips were effective at testing my other products, so why is the pH of the BHA Liquid so far off? Is there something about the product that makes pH testing more complicated, or does this product not work with paper strips? Or did I get a bad batch?
E: Here are some pictures I took of the test strip.
They are soda bottle preforms (or "baby soda bottles,) which are uninflated 2 liter soda bottles. Available here and on Amazon, and other places.
I must say that posting a "these just arrived in the mail" without providing a source is a little less helpful that it might be. OP? Your source?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485705289&sr=sr-1&keywords=ultrasonic+jewelry+cleaner
It was a few bucks cheaper when I bought it. Doesn't have a timer, so sometimes I cut it short or run it a few times in a row.
I use a couple of these wood test tube racks.
They're capable of holding every type of razor I've owned. Plus they fit in my medicine cabinet nicely, and they don't look half bad IMO.
Yes. Quite easily. The relationship is the following
If i have 1lb of force and want to lift something that weighs 4lbs i'll need two pistons right?
piston A with 1lb of force will have a surface area (pi*r^2) of idk, .5sqin.
piston B with 4lbs of load that you want to move will need a surface area 4x higher than piston A. so 2 sqin in this case.
The problem is when you move piston A 2 inches piston B (with the 4lb load) will only move .5 inches.
This scales linearly so if you want to lift a car with 1lb of force you can. but you better be able to move the piston a long long way to get the job done.
EDIT: a kit like this with some tubing will give you everything you need to demonstrate this at home. I don't know the tube diameters but you can measure them and figure out the ratio pretty easily. https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Liquids-cigs-juice/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=syringe&qid=1562950408&s=gateway&sr=8-5
My problem is its always easy to “if I have that it’s hardly any more to include this” myself into a monster pack
Mine is a 3.5 x 5.5 x 7” soft pack that weighs 30.5 oz
Contents:
Byrd Rescue 2 serrated knife
Pill case with Robax, Motrin, antihistamine.
1 roll each medical mesh tape, paper tape, electrical tape.
1 med ziplock freezer bag with a handful of bandaids.
Rite in the rain note pad.
Scissors (klien 2100-7, no idea where/why i got them but they’re a great size for this)
1 med ziplock freezer bag with 1 8x10” compress, 8 antiseptic wipes (provodine-iodine & benzalkonium chloride), 2x iodine ointment, 4x cool jel packets.
Small container with imodium, tiny tube of polysporrin, and a strip thermometer.
Small tube of Q tips.
Small tube with a dozen UCO stormproof matches.
Exotac nano striker.
Travel pack of tissues.
A pair of vinyl gloves (wrapped).
Tampon.
2x unlubed condoms (wow those expired a while ago).
Thumbprint 4 in 1 screwdriver
3x pairs of foam ear plugs (dont remember the reasoning but they weigh nothing)
Missing:
Gauze roll.
Unflavoured dental floss.
Large sewing needle.
Pen/pencil.
Tweezers.
Tick-key.
?
Bottle preforms are great small tubes for keeping things dry
https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY
For a while you could buy redbull shots. They were a great small container as well
edit:correcting formatting.
Edit 2: always put rolls of tape in a baggy. When theyre hot they can ooze adhesive and make your kit a mess
I use Soda Preforms and freeze by filling half the container with yeast and topping off with a 50/50 solution of starter beer and glycerin.
I then put in an insulated bag with an ice pack to protect from freeze/thaw cycles.
The only thing I’d change would be to MAYBE use 1.5 ounce glass jars. Which you could keep longer and straight up boil to sanitize.
Don't know why you got down voted
Soda Bottle Preforms and Caps (30/pk) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h1EHDbC27NHS4
Edit
They are commonly called test tubes, and used as such in an amateur setting. They are also known as this other thing though. The original intended purpose.
Available used!
i would invest into a $25~35 ultra sonic cleaner on Amazon. They are great for glasses, other jewelry, etc. I plan on using that the morning of the wedding or something. This is what I have [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Instruments-CD2800/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491254960&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ultrasonic+jewelry+cleaner&psc=1) works amazing
edit: trust me, the ring is most likley dirtier than you think. the before and after is SO different.
For that particular one it is a deal. I found it at amazon for $60.
However, there are others on amazon with better reviews for less.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZVYAVM?keywords=ultrasonic%20cleaner&qid=1461543910&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3&pldnSite=1
This one used to be cheaper on amazon. I think you can look it up on camel camel camel to see its price fluctations. It's been recommended quite often on here over the years. If you have the patience maybe you can wait until the price drops on this bad boy. But most of these jewlery cleaners, at least the ones with the similar dimensions, are rebrands. Kind of like those TDS and PH meters you get for your pool, there's a ton of them on amazon and ebay etc. most will perform fairly similar. (you get what you pay for).
It is a test tube holder, but it's a pretty damn genius idea for holding pens too - I may need to grab one myself.
Just get it on Amazon homeslice. Essential depot is like 29$ a gallon incl shipping with prime
all it takes is a bit of simple math. you can buy everything you need aside from the liquid nicotine on amazon. i myself use 100%vg juice so i dont buy pg at all but a large bottle of vg will run you about 20 to 25 dollars, 1 gallon for me is 22 at the moment. you can also find packs of empty bottles for around 10 bucks, then youll need measuring syringes for mixing, flavor drops and the nicotine all of which are linked below.
i would just mix small batches first if you arent sure what a juice would taste like after your done then mix a full bottle, this way you can experiment with flavor mixes and see what you can create.
for a 100 ml bottle its really easy youll just need to figure out how much nic to put in, i vape at 6% nic so i measure out 94 ml of vg and the last remaining 6 ml i put in as the nicotine, after that the base is done, then just drop in the flavor drops, shake it like crazy, let it settle for a bit and boom juice done.
there are also some sites out there with premade mixture recipes that you can find and follow
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HSDNS4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3O37MU47F4102&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y8UX80/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1ZOAQ4ZHE42HG&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CFJ51X4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A35C2NGNUSD9X5&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WUPUYCC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2S5SG4CMI156J&psc=1
https://liquidnicotinewholesalers.com/250mg-nicotine-liquid.html
Might be worth doing a test of your water. Any alarming results could be taken to Public Works to hopefully find a solution to the problem.
https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540909874&sr=8-4&keywords=tap+water+test+kit
This one's worked fine for me in the past, it gave me no false positives. I knew I could trust it because the region in which my old houses were located was notorious for its incredibly hard water, and that was the only factor for which my results came back as positive.
Amazon sells well water test kits. Tests for a number of things - lead and other metals, bacteria, etc.
Edit: I think this is the one I used.
Ill always recommend #1 but I have seen other people suggest #2 as a safe alternative.
Before you make your decision on using an alternative take heed of this warning from Ploom (source: some site called "Rich Malley's blog", but it seems like a legit CSR Reply):
>Regarding my suggestion that AstroGlide is an acceptable substitute for the lube they offer for purchase, Ploom pointed out that if a Pax owner damages her vaporizer by using anything other than their officially approved lubricant, she could void her 10yr. warranty.
Do you think plastic pipettes would work?
I use these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z4QWIK/
For the uninitiated...
Well, IF the brass used has lead in it (not all brass does, and it is used less and less in brass) the small amount of mineral scale tends to form a nice barrier preventing it leaching into the water. A few flushes should work. If you are worried, test it. https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_3/141-8508703-2370814?ie=UTF8&qid=1502944258&sr=8-3&keywords=water+lead+test+kit
Grab some Zen Pipe Cleaners
&
Grab a bottle of Propylene Glycol (lube for the mouthpiece)
This happens when the mouthpiece loses its connection to the slot it's plugged into, making the Pax think you took the mouthpiece out. This can happen if a lot of resin has built up on the mouthpiece stem.
To fix, clean your mouthpiece stem really well. Cover the stem in the Pax provided mouthpiece lubricant (or if you want to buy it in bulk yourself, it's simply food grade Propylene Glycol) and plug it in.
To prevent build up in the future, never store your Pax mouthpiece side down. When I charge it after a session, I leave it mouthpiece up and plug the adapter onto it upside down. This way, the oils don't run down and gunk up the mouthpiece and stem.
DON'T put alcohol in there to clean it out. Ploom advises against it, and I disregarded that advice and ended up having to send mine in for an exchange (credit to Ploom's customer service though, I was able to get a new unit in less than a week, no extra charge).
I bought Propylene Glycol off of amazon. That's what I've seen everyone suggest as an alternative.
Lol sure
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C7MTLA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1505844760&sr=8-7&keywords=pg&dpPl=1&dpID=4162WNRg3oL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F5OJG6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_121_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=00QCF415KADTMNV835CS
Your choice of CBD
Here you go!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Z4QWIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7Hqtzb5A24BNF
No. I got the rack from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z4QWIK/
or buy these... as mention previously in this sub.
http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Screw-Caps-Bottle-28mm/dp/B0064ODVLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375119693&sr=8-1&keywords=plastic+bottle+cap
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I got. Just a note: The research I found said that it works well on diamonds and other hard stones, but if your stone is softer (like an opal) it can damage the stone. Also, if you have a diamond with a lot of inclusions, it can make them bigger.
If you’re going to do that you might as well freeze it in soda preforms (take up less space) and slowly create a yeast bank.
If you don't have a vape yet, get an Arizer, you won't regret it.
As far as containers go, check out bottle preforms. I bough a 100pk of these years ago and still have half
https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY
is this a shitpost? or do you just really like soda blanks?
I'm all for whatever reduces WL's cost but doesn't harm me.
Personally, i bought some soda bottle preforms (https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY) and overbuild starters, save a vial or two, and use that to rebuild starters. Havent bought yeast in a hot minute.
Do you ever plan on doing 5 gallon batches? If you have the space it will be more cost effective to just go for a full size keging system. Mini kegs are going to cost you roughly what a new 5 gallon keg will.
That said if it's only a one-off thing you could use some 2 liter bottles and get yourself a co2 tank and regulator and a carbonation cap and force carb that way, it won't be on "tap" but it will be force carbonated.. and you can keep it carbonated if you leave the cap on and top off the bottle with co2 each time you pour from it.
If you have nothing then you'll need a regulator I have this one: (taprite t742hp primary double gauge co2 regulator, brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UZUJ22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_auBCDbBPZ3V0H)
A co2 tank, something like this: (5lb co2 tank- new aluminum cylinder with cga320 valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BvBCDbXPB33KP)
Some 5/16 tubing l, and a ball lock gas disconnect like this (5/16" gas line assembly - ball lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064OI77Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6wBCDbSWZWMNY)
And a carbonation cap like this : (stainless carbonation cap counter pressure bottle filling with 5/16" barb，co2 coupling to carbonate soda beer fruit juice water https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4GGYT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BxBCDbK0V3J35)
I also have this regulator for my mobile mini keg set-up: Ultimate CO2 Regulator works with 5 types of CO2 tanks (0-50psi) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071J9FKVD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nABCDbQWF87S3
It works great and I use it with a soda stream co2 tank which are a little pricey for how much co2 you get but they're convenient and available everywhere. This makes a nice compact system since you don't have the big regulator and big co2 tank.
Test tube stand from Amazon.
Eisco Labs Premium Wooden Test Tube Rack, (6) 22mm Holes, 9.5" Long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I13ZNIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GUoqybG0BXT77
OP here. I have an old vine zin (and a few others) that I started fermenting last year. After primary, I’ve degassed, put it through malo, racked to clean carboy, degassed again, hit it with sulfites, and let it age. 10-11months later I still have a noticeable bit of carbonization left in the wine. I’m oaking it now, and hoping to bottle right before thanksgiving. Any ideas how I can kill off this carbonization? I’m at the point now where I’m agitating the carboy every other night, and occasionally hitting it with a vac-u-vin. Has anyone ever tried magnetic agitation? Looking for any recommendations that will help make this wine less lively when served. Thanks!
magnetic stirrer
I use one of the magnetic stir mixer. Been working out for me. Similar to this one, Magnetic stirrer magnetic mixer with stir bar 3000 rpm Max Stirring Capacity: 3000ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072K24X5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5.aRBbH4XBBHX
In the kitchen I use a magnetic mixer (https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-stirrer-magnetic-Stirring-Capacity/dp/B072K24X5P/) but if I'm traveling or at work I use a 250ml bottle and shake it up a lot with the cap on.
My preference for drinks is Chocolate Almond Milk with some brown sugar. Takes the awful taste away.
I use either mason jars (grabbing total yeast cake from fermenter) or bottle preforms (remnants of starter).
This is going to sound crazy, but hear me out.
Soda bottle performs. Soda Bottle Preforms and Caps (30/pk) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ty66ybTH9VY8J
These things are insanely strong and I've gotten one to hold over 200psi. And if you lose a cap you can get a replacement at any gas station.
soda bottle preforms
http://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY
http://www.preformsplus.com/Products.htm
Here is the desktop version of your link
Soda Bottle Test Tubes is what I use. Mason jars would take up way too much space in my fridge.
For any fam that wants this, Amazon's gotchu!
EDIT: They're actually a bit cheaper at Educational Innovations, its the second link when searching for where to buy unformed soda bottle.
>so I have just had a brilliant idea for hiding booze: inside a fake tampon applicator. They'll never know! I'm so grossed out at myself for even thinking of this.
it's literally a thing! lmao
I wanna bring this in... lol
These are a thing
Smart to have an actual tube of lotion.
If I was a girl I’d use these tampon flasks
Unable? Not so my friend! You just need to keep it sorta roomtemp as I understand. I personally keep mine in a fridge, but that's unnecessary I think. I use a small dark glass bottle, that holds 30ml - which I drop a tab into, and then use a blunted syringe to extract 1.5ml–3ml per dose (depending how much I want that day).
Volumetric is a WAY WAY better way of doing it than cutting up tabs. I'm sure if your bedroom is even a remotely normal room temp your little bottle will be just fine in a drawer or something.
The dark glass bottle, and the syringes (science/non medical type) are available on amazon for not too much money.
— Here is the type of bottle I have (these are very very nice, you could probably get away with a cheaper one, but hey, it's nice to have nice things :)
https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Jars-Travel-Ultraviolet-Screwtop/dp/B00N5FLUYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502672177&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=infinity+jar&psc=1
Measurement:
https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk010-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502672271&sr=8-1&keywords=Duda+Energy+Syringepk010+Industrial+Syringes+with+15G+x+1-1%2F2%22+Blunt+Tip+Fill
Math is easy. If you put a tab say a 100ug tab into 30ml of water, then if you take 3ml of that water, you would be getting 10% of that tab. 5—15% is usually a good amount, and you might find that less works better for you.
The ALD52 I have is 125ug per tab. So 125ug in 30ml of distilled water means that 3ml of solution equals 12.5ug of a dose - and often, I take half of that, so only 1.5ml of soultion.
Ill second the list /u/asr provided, I have exactly the same stuff except for the co2 tank. I bought this 5 pounder for 42 bucks, it costs $10 to fill (for me). When I went to the beverage distributor to fill it they had the same tank, filled... for $40 bucks, lol.
I got one of these form amazon for 35 bucks and it works great https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Instruments-CD2800/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1500573408&sr=8-6&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
I actually bought a magnasonic jewelry cleaner to use at home for like $35 and it works like a charm! i just bought some cleaning solution to mix in with the water and i clean my rings every couple weeks and they sparkle like they're brand new! jewelry cleaner
thanks! this is what I used to clean my caps...Was it worth the wait? nah, prob not but I was impressed how clean they came out of the machine after it was all said and done. I did 0 when it came to scrubbing my caps clean :) just running water over them after the ulrta sonic cleaner had them looking new
I used this machine. This USC does its job but I do wish I got one with a programmable timer, instead of one that only runs in 3 minute intervals. I didnt use any cleaner because they didnt need the extra help. All of the pens were inked at some point this semester, and still started immediately. My process was to run the converter and feed under tap water until I didnt see any ink coming out, and then to run it in the USC. Using this process I was able to get all of the sections and converters clear. The reason I picked up a USC was because after cleaning the Prera section with tap water, I could still see ink left over in several pockets and knew it would dry there. About 9 minutes in the USC and it was sparkling clear.
Edit: /u/abraxart and /u/mitch_romley
Eisco Labs Premium Wooden Test Tube Rack, (6) 22mm Holes, 9.5" Long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I13ZNIC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Here is the product if youre interested!
lay it on its side. razors don't need to be stood up or suspended in mid-air. IMO that justs makes them more likely to get knocked over.
the razor i am using for the week or whatever sets on the counter, rest of them sit in a test tube rack under the sink.
I use this wooden test tube rack. Trust me, you'll need the 2-3 extra slots in your lifetime. ;)
I actually need another one (should've gotten the big one).
Problem is that you can get a stand that isn't as fancy for way too cheap.
Personally, I have 3 of this one, and love it.
If you are just looking for storage, I've been using these cheap ones from Amazon. They get the job done:
https://smile.amazon.com/Dianoo-Fountain-Large-Leather-Case/dp/B01A5D8RTC/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1482382346&sr=8-8&keywords=48-pen+cases
For display on a desk, I find that wooden test tube holders work really well. For instance,
https://smile.amazon.com/Eisco-Labs-Premium-Wooden-Holes/dp/B00I13ZNIC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1482382410&sr=8-5&keywords=test+tube+holders
I use a soft wooden test tube stand for inked pens and keep them nib up. Sometimes I have flow issues, but like having them visible and protected. Uninked pens I keep in lined drawers in one of these or a pen case.
Nic river is cheap, haven't used it but have heard only good things. I use essential depot, if you buy direct from them you can get pretty good discounts on a couple gallons.
Buy one of these
Bluelab if you have the money for sure, but for a cheaper option I'd definitely recommend a Jellas Ph pen. I used it for ages before I upgraded. Just remember to calibrate once a week or so.
https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC
I bought the two below (the first results for pH meter and PPM meter respectively). They are well reviewed and have worked great for me.
https://smile.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491933088&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ph+meter&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/HM-Digital-Measurement-Resolution-Accuracy/dp/B0002T6L5M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491933118&sr=8-3&keywords=ppm+meter
If you need EC instead of PPM I can't help you, but you can convert between the two I believe.
Id definitely get a PH pen, those drops are not accurate enough for growing marijuana IMO.
I use this, haven't had any problems with it
https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496106446&sr=8-3&keywords=PH+pen
I have yet to have issues with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBUH4RC/
Works well, accurate (compared with other meters and stays right on)
These have been just fine for me, and it is more economical. I bought 2 of them, one as a back up. They both hold their calibration rather well, and I won't be quite as pissed if I break one as if I had spent $80 on it.
That oil is very viscous you won’t be pouring it anywhere. (And those carts suck IMO). To answer your question, you need some blunt tipped syringes. I found a variety pack on amazon for less than $10.
I emptied one on these apex and another similar one from theory wellness (again, bad cart) into used mostly empty ones from sage (really good cart). Works fantastic.
To reduce viscosity and make it easier to suck up with the syringe, use a hairdryer on warm to throughly heat the cart and oil.
Edit:: link
Check this out: 9 Pack - 10ml, 3ml, 1ml Syringes with 14Ga and 18Ga Blunt Tip Needl... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_8drXzb76J26XX
I get mine from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016Q5YVK2/ - Assorted sizes set (out of stock)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0187LGYCG/ - 5ml Airless Pumps (about the size of my thumb)
I would LOVE to find a glass airless pump bottle though!
A fill syringe is awesome for decanting. You don't have to touch the product, and don't expose as much to air! I got the kind for glycerin and they work pretty well. The thicker creams are a pain, but you can use a syringe if you have patience.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CFJ51X4/
This set of [syringes](http://www.BSTEAN.com/ Syringe Blunt Tip Needle and Cap - 10ml, 5ml, 3ml, 1ml Syringes 14ga 16ga 18ga 20ga Blunt Needles - Oil or Glue Applicator (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SkBuDb127QQVQ) will change the game for Star San, lactic acid, etc. additions.
Having a set of cheap bar rags has incredible.
I use a cookie cooling rack on the ledge in my keezer for oint glasses so that there's airflow under them and they aren't sitting in condensation.
A 2 cup pyrex measuring cup and small whisk for everything from gelatin additions to dissolving campden additions.
Harbor Freight nitrile mechanics gloves for cleaning when things like PBW or BLC are involved. They're think and don't rip and also have longer wrists than the food service ones.
$30 amazon
First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit. I live in a 100-yr old building with original plumbing so I bought this and tested the water. Everything came out well within EPA standards. Our city water (San Francisco) is among the best in the country so your mileage may vary.
Thanks. I live in an old building. I basically want to do a test for things that will kill me in the short or long run.
I found this.
https://www.amazon.com/Watersafe-WS425B-Drinking-Water-Test/dp/B00005AUHX
and this
https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/
Hopefully it's enough.
I realize this sounds crazy considering 99% of tap water is safe to drink (according to the comments in this post). I'd rather be paranoid then dead.
http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453321747&sr=8-1&keywords=lead+water+test+kit
I'm also on a cistern and use commercial whole-house filters in 2 stages. Stage 1 is a "pre-clean" sediment filter and stage 2 is a carbon filter that helps remove cysts and odors. The pre-filtering helps the more expensive carbon filters last longer. I also have an automatic chlorinator and contact tank for added disinfection (could also use UV) and a RO filter for drinking water. The RO is overkill since water tests fine from the tap (good idea to test periodically!), but peace of mind and all. To maintain a good flow rate, I use 2 filters in parallel for each stage (4 total). It's all easily put together with PVC. I don't have first flush and water can get pretty dirty, but after filtering it's very clean and odor free. Filters typically last about 3 months before the pressure drops too low (for 2 people, so maybe 1 month for you?) and have to be replaced. High efficiency sink and shower fittings help reduce water usage and the effects of the lower pressure. I have the pump run up to 60psi to max out the filter life.
This one, First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit. The guy at the environmental test company said those kits aren't really sensitive enough to get more than a "that's pretty good" or "that's pretty bad" despite the results you get. He said they tend to be consistent, though, so if you get good results you should be good, and if you get bad results, you should call someone like him. If you get fuzzy results, it comes down to how strongly you feel about getting it officially tested.
OP delivers
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-99-9-Percent-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C
http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-ISOPROPYL-ALCOHOL-99-9-High-Purity-Gallon-packed-in-4-qts-/111336493723 <Cheap
99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol
Use 99% isopropyl alcohol (I use this stuff) to degrease the places on which you'll be putting the adhesive bits.
Personally, I spray down a cloth or paper towel with glass cleaner (Windex) then add a few sprays of alcohol and use that for most frame cleaning. Then for things which need to be grease-free I follow up with straight alcohol on a clean paper towel.
I use much stronger degreasers on metal-only parts, such as when cleaning the drivetrain parts when off of the bike. But for anywhere around plastics, alcohol is my go-to. It will not hurt the epoxy in carbon fiber.
(Always remember, carbon fiber is plastic.)
Going to have to fry those headphones.High concentration isopropyl alcoholIt's called propylene glycol. You need the good grade level. Amazon has it for $7.79 a pint and it should last you until it expires (years).
i totally agree with you, but if you just bought your pax and need an immediate solution, this is great.
edit: here's the pint of food-grade pg on amazon.
Can't believe no one's thought of [propylene glycol] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol) yet. It's very safe but can literally be used as antifreeze. LD50 is very high - [>20g/kg in rats] (http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927239), miscible with water, generally recognized as safe by the FDA, and you can buy it "kosher food grade" on Amazon. Oh yeah, it's also a little sweet and is even marketed as those [Mio fit water additives] (http://www.makeitmio.com/), which means they could've gone out, bought a bunch and mixed it with water and then put it in the freezer.
>If I can ask a quick question: Why do so many e-cig users buy a low nicotine (12-18 mg) juice? Isn't it better to buy some with a high nic content and vape less? Just something that's been bothering me.
Or buy 24mg/ml, cut it down with some PG.
There is a simple and obvious answer, I buy 18 or under because I don't like the taste of 24.
Amazon has it in amounts from 1 pint to 5 gallons. Dunno about you, but they ship to me pretty quick. And no probing questions.
But NSA WILL know! :)
(EDIT): Also, I posted this link a little while ago that has some good information about PG labelling, so you'll know what you are buying.
This is what I got
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F5KYM4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
less than ~$8 and will last literally as long as you could possibly need it to
I stick my pinky finger in there and dab a little bit on the metal portion of the mouthpiece, you don't need much
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F5KYM4/ref=aw_2nd_sims_1?pi=SY115
He's never gonna hear the end of this!
Okay, here's my answer. I go the oral route. I make a solution using propylene glycol (aka "PG").
My recipe for 4-ACO-DMT: .5g powder --> 4ml PG, combined in a small amber dropper bottle. Shake well until totally smooth. In my experience, 8 drops is a good starter dose. I just put the drops into a beverage and down it.
Obviously, you need a scale. You can get a decent one for under $20. One that is highly recommended the Gemini-20.
Yeah that's not too bad. Of course you can get 1000ml of concentrate for $45! We bought 120ml of concentrate from three sources (1, 2, 3) to compare and she didn't notice a big difference between them. They've all been in the freezer since and still taste fine 3 years later (actually one of them is completely gone and the other 2 are getting pretty low).
I just started with an online calculator and went from there; it's easy to get to whatever % you normally vape at.
I found out quickly that plastic syringes suck - they wear out and the eliquid melts the markings off. So I got a few glass syringes off of ebay (though really I've only ever needed one).
Initially I was super-careful with the nicotine concentrate as it can be fatal in really small doses, but after handling it a bit I realized it's actually very safe and easy to handle. Unless you squirt it in your eye or mouth you aren't going to have a problem - but you definitely need to keep it away from children and pets.
Then a few glass dropper bottles, PG and VG.
Whenever she's getting low she'll order a few different flavorants (usually from here) in 10ml bottles. I rarely mix flavors as it's simpler not to - just dump a full 10ml bottle into a dropper bottle, add 4-6ml of nicotine concentrate, then around 20ml each of PG/VG. Let it sit a week and it's ready to use.
For that $60 you're getting 120 ml you could get started.
$13 for VG
$11 for PG which is optional
Flavors here. Probably end up spending $15-$20. Less if you find a good recipe with a couple flavors
$18 for the higher end nic
Just need 2 1ml syringes with 14g needles and 1 5ml or 10ml syringe with a 14g needle, some bottles (which you can reuse glass bottles), and you're good to go.
First, watch this, then come back: How to make your own E-Liquid : Mixing by Weight - DIY Tutorial I hate youtube tutorials, and I still recommend this, so seriously, watch it.
Now, a warning. You can spend a tiny amount to start DIY, or you can just take the plunge and spend a good chunk, but be set for a while and the cost per ml drops even more.
So you'll need supplies. Other than nicotine and flavorings, Amazon works pretty well.
I put my PG and VG into some squeeze bottles I found at wal-mart for $0.97. Makes dispensing them super easy (just like in the video). You can also find them on Amazon for slightly more, but Walmart is on the way to work, so I just stopped there.
I put my flavors into dripper bottles, which I got from Heartland Vapes, but that only works if you want 100+. Free shipping is at $75, so I also threw flavors into my orders, since I'd need them anyway. Personally, I started with single flavor juices that I knew I'd like. I ordered a lot from MtBakerVapor, and most of their flavors are just single flavor FlavorWest (FW) stuff, so I grabbed them. I made those for a month, then I started buying more flavors (like my favorite, TFA Chai). Now I'm adding more flavors into my juices, judging on what I think would work well (it doesn't always). Start simple, then build on what you learn.
Buy some nicotine from your preferred vendor, if you want nicotine in your juice.
Then wait impatiently while USPS loses your package in San Diego, CA, during which you can download the calculator and experiment with it. The bottom calculator on the side bar is amazing. Now you're going, "Crap, I gotta weigh my liquids!". Well, not really. You can take the specific gravities off the manufacturer data sheets (sometimes there, sometimes right, don't trust the ones from FW), google them, or ask here and someone probably has them. Or, you can use the built-in weights for PG and VG, and then set your flavors to 1ml = 1g. It's close enough.
Most of all, remember to have fun.
Quick tip: Better not enough flavor than too much. Too much flavoring mutes the flavor, not enhances, and spearmint burns your lips when you add too much. You can always add more, you can't take away.
Keep the amount of sweetener low or zero and it will have the biggest impact on coil life. Low flavor will help in general, but some flavors hardly contribute to coil gunk at all, so it depends on which flavors you use. I haven't noticed any difference in the rate I change coils using 50/50 and 70/30, and I use both regularly in different setups.
BTW, it sounds like you are trying to decide between a finished nicotine base, 50/50 or 70/30 with maybe 6mg/ml nic added already, for example... Sorry if I misunderstand. That way does work but I do it the other way around, and mix my flavor base, then add nicotine to suit the order. If you buy VG, PG, and 100mg/ml nic each in its own bottle, you will have infinite flexibility with every bottle you make.
It's cheap too:
https://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-Quart/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506167220&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=vegetable+glycerine
https://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Quart-KOSHER-PURE/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506167242&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=propylene+glycol
Scale 30
PG 13
VG 13+7Sh (Price is different from when I bought it, recommend difference source)
100 Pipettes 5
Lorann Sampler 15
Various bottle options, take your pick.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F5OJG6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A16NOSQ55ZAIJQ
This is what the lubricant is made out of.
Get a big thing of it.
This...
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0?SubscriptionId=AKIAJQA6PK5J5ZC4LTRQ&amp;tag=shopperr-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B005IQTSE0
It's way, way easier to mix with 100% PG nicotine solution unless you're going for max VG! Just get some pipettes, if you don't wanna have to clean shit. They're cheap and disposable. Five bucks for 100, free shipping at Amazon.
I've found using eJuiceMeUp, it's just way more simple to calculate crap out using 100% PG nic. Almost all flavours are PG and whatnot.
for moving paint around you can use a drinking straw, just dip it into the pot a little, then cover the end with your thumb, move it to the palette. if you're feeling fancy you can get some pipettes
I use about a 1:1 ratio on my palette, and I get a couple hours good use out of it just using a cheap plastic watercolor palette from Michael's. You can also make up a wet palette, I know a lot of folks like these.
for even longer lasting paint, or for wet blending, you can get some acrylic retarder
Does Nonsterile matter with Pipettes?
I realized it after ordering, it's still sunday for an hour, can cancel, should I though?
Yeah, I make sure to not shake my bottles, I stir them instead. This keeps paint from accumulating on the top of the bottle cap, preventing it from drying the lid shut as well as preserving the paint longer.
I also buy a ton of these pipettes as well as these medicine cups every few months. I always transfer my paint to a little cup to mix / thin it.
Another tip to extend a paints longevity is to never place thinned paint back into the jar, as it can cause some paints to gel and become useless over time.
these test tube holders also work really well for that.
I use one of these test tube holders,. It's just about full though, so either I'll need to get another or user up some ink.
I have used this at a few Broncos game. Buy a big water bottle empty fill with vodka, bring in tea and mix. Broncos allow sealed bottles.
http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Screw-Caps-Bottle-28mm/dp/B0064ODVLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416695421&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=plastic+bottle+caps
I've read that water bottles are highly suspicious just because products like this exist: http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Screw-Caps-Bottle-28mm/dp/B0064ODVLG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425705118&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=water+bottle+caps
try these just drink the water, refill with clear liquor and screw a new cap on the bottle.
You can also buy caps off of amazon
If you want to keep your rings clean all the time, you can invest in an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner. Most of them use a powder-based cleaner that you mix with water. They don't use much water, and the solution will last a long time unless you're cleaning 20 pieces a day. If your well water is too hard, just use bottled water.
Mine was a bit more, but you can purchase a good ultrasonic cleaner for ~$40:
www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-MGUC500-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglass/dp/B007Q2M17K/
Magnasonic. There was one that was like $5 cheaper, but I think I picked this one because it has a timer? I figured $40 is nothing compared to the cost of all of the orthodontics, so I splurged. I use it with 3 minute denture cleaning tabs and it has been incredible. I’m going away this weekend and I am so sad that I will be leaving it behind (I could pack it in my carryon, but that’s a bit much for 2 nights). It works wonders - I swear my trays look as clean as the first day I put them on when I pull them out of the ultrasonic. I do 180-280 seconds usually (it has a timer).
First: Soak in cheap rubbing alcohol (remove o-rings first).
Second: http://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-MGUC500-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglass/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404238659&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner Filled with hot water, dish soap and vinegar.
Third: Toothbrush and soapy/vinegar water from ultrasonic cleanser.
Fourth: Empty ultrasonic cleaner and fill with clean, distilled water. Put your rinsed RDA pieces back in the cleaner for max time.
Fifth: Rinse and dry thoroughly.
Edit: spelling... ugh
Here’s the one I got. I love it. I use it to clean everything: rings, necklaces, sunglasses, phone cases — basically if it’s small enough and not electronic, I put it in there lol
I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(Not an ad, it was the cheapest one I found at the time that seemed acceptable)
I use an ultra sonic jewelry cleaner with gem and jewelry cleaner or simple green. Then just hit it with a tooth brush. Works great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q2M17K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/178-5677744-3419908?qid=1458924430&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+jewellery+cleaner
Watch leaving plastic in simple green too long, eventually it will eat the plastic.
https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY
It won't be impossible, it will just mean using a different container. I've been holding onto a ton of the tubes for a while for saving yeast. Also:
http://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406572259&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2+liter+preform
if you need more and want to stick with vials.
Yes, there are those but you mentioned filters. I find the big bottles of water to be overwhelmingly more common, and you can just flip a coin as to whether the company that bottles it follow regulations. I'm actually taking this back from meiguo to make sure the company my school buys from is okay, as I've noticed the plastic circles you punch through have become almost too easy to open recently and one was already opened when it was delivered.
First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_OXL5tb0YNPYD8
This kit will let you test for all sorts of common contaminants, including lead.
I don't know how well I can answer your questions, as I'm new to lead issues and abatement. You've probably educated yourself on a lot of what I'm going to say, but I'm going to throw it all in this comment, anyway.
I live in a 110 year old house that is basically a ball of lead. The plumbing had lead joints, the service line is old and lead, the windows have lead, the doors have lead, the walls have lead, and the city is concerned that our water mains are shedding lead. And now, my child has a very slightly elevated lead level. Prompted by her most recent blood test, we are attempting a sensible lead abatement plan for our home.
First, figure out where the lead is. You can pick up water testing kits as well as swabs for surfaces. Once you know where the lead is, you can assess your risk and choose an abatement plan.
For instance, we have a small amount of lead in our water, which is likely a consequence of the service line. We got a bid for replacing it, and that was about $10k, plus the cost of fixing the yard that would be torn up. We went with a 10 year filter for the whole house, and that was about $900 including tax and installation.
Use the surface swabs on your windows that were installed before 1980, and if you have woodwork that was painted white, check that, too. It became popular to paint dark woodwork white in the 50s/60s to brighten up houses, and people used lead paint. We have solid wood doors and a ton of trim that is absolutely smothered in many coats of paint, and sure enough, it's super leady.
With windows, the act of opening and closing the windows can cause friction on the paint, which produces inhalable dust. If your family isn't experiencing significantly elevated lead levels, you have the option to simply wipe down the windows with a damp cloth to remove the dust. If you are more concerned, have the budget, or just want new windows, you can replace them. Check to see if your local municipality has a lead abatement grant for windows. In my city, they offer a $350/window grant to replace windows that test positive for lead (along with a few other qualifiers), and that really puts a dent in that cost.
With other painted surfaces, you're likely to be fine with encapsulation, which is a fancy way of saying painting over it. Lead is only really dangerous if you inhale the dust or eat the chips, so if you paint over it, it can't create dust. This will likely mean that you'll need to do a little scraping, which will obviously create dust, so you need to use a quality mask, and then clean like mad when you are done. Wet mop, dry dusting/sweeping is not good enough.
I'm in the process of restoring the woodwork because I prefer a stained finish, and for all the trim that isn't especially decorative or historically significant, I'm just replacing it. For our lovely doors, I sent them out to be dip stripped because it just wasn't worth the risk of my daughter sucking in all the dust while I removed the paint.
Because I have a young child, I'm not fucking around with lead, but the majority of people with lead paint in their homes are going to be just fine if they don't sand lead paint, carefully wipe up the dust with a wet cloth in areas that have lead paint (like windows), and prime/paint over the lead paint.
This is the kit http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ
Yeah, the "flammable tap water" thing was from up in my area, Weld County. The situation was that all of these folks used well water for their houses, and they had higher-than-normal levels of methane gas in their water. It was a big hit with the local media, but the kerfluffle died out not too long afterwards.
I think you'll find a lot of information if you check out Denver Water's page on Water Quality - they provide information on the treatment process and the results of their tests. You can probably also request the water test results in print (In Greeley, we get them once a year with our water bills).
All in all, I've lived here a long time, and I've never had a problem with our water anywhere. In my opinion, it seems like municipalities in Colorado are much more concerned with water and water quality than in other places in the US I've lived previously. Heck, Coors even advertises that their beer is brewed with fresh "cold Rocky Mountain water"!
Feel safe with your water. If you're still concerned (or want to prove to your mom that the water's safe), you can always buy a water testing kit, although I don't know how accurate or effective they are, never having used one myself.
As far as you know.
When's the last time you tested your tap water?
All? Every store in my area has a water refill station. In my area it's near the coffee section. I'm not sure how much it costs, but it's way cheaper than buying bottled water.
That being said, why not just get water from the tap? If you're worried your water might be unsafe (most likely it's just fine), then test it. A quick search found this affordable test kit, which will tell you if you need to get a more comprehensive test done. Most likely you'll be well within safe standards and can safely use your city water.
Personally, I use a filter at home because I don't like the taste of our water. We have hard water, and there are still traces of something after our water softener. Our water is perfectly safe to drink, but a filter makes it much more palatable, so we use one. It's way cheaper than bottled water and way more convenient.
What you want is anhydrous isopropyl
Let them know exactly what happend and seek an RMA if possible as others suggest.
If no RMA is provided, you should clean that socket using high purity isopropyl alcohol. You can normally get it at a pharmacy in "medical grade". Or you can buy electronics grade in aerosol can or liquid to thoroughly rinse out and flush the socket.
I use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (electronics cleaner). Works great,
MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jIFPAb1ZECD8F
Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the whole the inside. It's safe for Electronics and will make it look like new. I would use a krylon paint on the rusty screws after removing the rust.
MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xyE1DbQ5BGQWF
You can get it easy on Amazon, there are hundreds of brands to chose from.
This is what I use, since it contains no water and is 99.9%. use gloves though, it will dry the crap out of skin.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504808917&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=99+isopropyl+alcohol
Not sure what solder you used, but that looks like flux. Isopropyl alcohol (like this) should work fine as a cleaner.
This is the same. Im unsure about what you posted. Propylene Glycol 1 Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F5KYM4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_gmBeub0X9WZM7
I bought mine from Amazon (PG, VG). I read in some thread that Essential Depot is the supplier for a lot of vape shops.
Hey! I love the purple pax! The only accessories I use are rubbing alcohol, cotton pipe cleaners, and alcohol wipes. Oh, and lubricant. I did an Internet search for the lubricant, it's propylene glycol. I found a pint of it on amazon for $8. (That will last forever.)
http://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Pint-Free-Shipping/dp/B005F5KYM4
Here is a video on how to apply the lubricant. I tend to lube it after every cleaning.
http://youtu.be/W6-IcN6segw
Every pax comes with a small amount of cleaning supplies, but they really didn't last long for me. Cleaning is a little tedious, but it vapes so much more easily when it's clean. Here is a good video about how to clean it.
http://youtu.be/Cowj6W1qxjQ
I find that 10 days is the absolute longest I can go without cleaning it, and that's with daily use. And honestly, I should probably tend to it more like once a week.
Regarding cute accessories, there are some really cute pouches for Pax on etsy!
https://www.etsy.com/market/pax_vaporizer_case
Good luck with whatever you decide to go with! :) sorry for all the links, I'm on my ipad and watching The World's End and can't bring myself to do proper formatting right now) ;)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F5KYM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1382292583&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
They also have quarts for $12-13 and gallons for $33. It's USP and a highly recommended brand. I wouldn't trust a PG "solution" as that implies there's other ingredients. Also, you want USP as that's at least food grade or Pharma grade. If it doesn't say USP, it's probably industrial grade, which means lots of impurities.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F5KYM4/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just ordered this about 2 weeks ago. it is the exact stuff ploom gives you and its really cheap for a lot of it!
Edit: All it takes is a couple drops of the stuff a couple times a week. So it is definitely worth it.
Essential Depot PG
Essential Deport VG
I have been getting my PG and VG from Amazon. Its cheap and if you have prime it gets there super fast.
I use the essential depot VG, and PG. I get them quarts at a time for like 11-13 bucks apiece and that shit lasts a long time. You will go through more VG than PG usually.
I used to get my nicotine from wizard labs but I recently started using nude nicotine, I recommend it. In the DIY sub youll see a shit ton of vendors and a bunch of brands people swear by. Thats the part that can be overwhelming.
you can get bottles so many fucking places, if you just want a few amazon will do you right, wizard labs has em. Lately I have been just getting them from fasttech cause they are decent bottles (plastic) and they are cheap as fuck. when searching for bottles a good tip to have is 1/2oz bottles are 15mls and 1oz bottles are 30mls,
https://www.onestopdiyshop.com/ is a pretty awesome place.
http://wholesale.heartlandvapes.com/ is nice too.
For just starting you dont need much, PG, VG, NIc, Bottles, Flavors, Get a couple of 1ml and 3ml Syringes, and some 14g needle tips for VG based shit, and 18G tips for PG based shit.
My mixes are mostly VG, so I get my nicotine in VG Carrier base. I think I have pretty much covered most beginner info. I hope you decide to check it out its pretty rewarding and fucking fun.
Come hang out, Lurk about or whatever
I forgot you will also want to use a ejuice calculator, I use the POTV ejuice calculator on my phone it works well and its free. Its in the Android and iOs store. Peace!
Nicotine quality varies so sick with a reputable source like nude nicotine. Pg and vg are about the same but I'd still get it from a reputable source. This seems to be the cheapest and is good quality.
Glycerin Vegetable Kosher USP 43 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2tYJub1T9F4VY
Essential Depot Propylene Glycol 1 Quart Essential Depot http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_quYJub0G6VXPH
Hey dude! I purchased a starter kit when I started making E-juice, and while it was helpful I quickly realized that I could of gotten more for less had I known what I needed. It is a lot cheaper to just buy the products individually since you will also be getting a larger amount too. Here are some links and in my opinion this is the cheapest way for someone to start DIY:
VG- https://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-Quart/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480546689&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=vegetable+glycerine
PG- https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-Propylene-Glycol-Quart/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480546865&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=propylene+glycol
Gloves- https://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Glove-Industrial-Disposable-Thickness/dp/B01MZZ0FHO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480546913&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=nitrile+gloves
Syringes- https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Refilling-E-Liquids-Applicator/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480546884&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=blunt+tip+syringe
Nicotine- https://www.nudenicotine.com/products-page/unflavored-nicotine-base/
And as for bottles it is all up to you I personally buy mine from http://wholesale.heartlandvapes.com/eliquid-bottles/plastic-eliquid-bottles.html
*Lastly all you need is flavorings, I think it would be best for you to search around and find what you like, I personally prefer http://gremlindiy.com/ and http://www.bullcityflavors.com/ . Hope this helped!
Here is PG and VG, but I'm not sure how to check shipping rates to you.
You could also try using /r/juiceswap if you need someone to re-ship it to save on costs.
Are you looking for unflavored nic juice or just straight VG or PG?
For unflavored nic juice, Wizard Labs has some pretty good pricing when they actually have it in stock (they also carry literally tons of flavors).
As for straight VG or PG (for DIY flavor mixing) Essential Depot on Amazon has Kosher grade VG and PG.
You could get some plastic pipettes to transfer small amounts of the oil. I use these for depositing scented oils in my oil diffuser so that I don't accidentally use too much.
You could also consider transfering the oil to bottles with dropper tops.
Yeah, Lahmian medium is great. That will probably work better than the Vallejo TBH.
EDIT: if you're airbrushing with GW paints, get yourself some of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Graduated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495632710&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=paint+pipettes
Makes it a lot easier to get the right proportions of paint/thinner when you can measure. I haaaate the idea of literally pouring paint into the airbrush cup.
This is the advice that /u/gzprime gave me:
>I like the Rit Dymore (has to be the Dyemore version) for a few different reasons. The number one reason is convenience, it is pre-mixed and there for ready to go. It has far less warnings and caustic information than the iDye Poly. I find the iDye Poly hard to blend in small batches and have been having better results as of late withe Rit Dyemore.
>I'm pretty comfortable with dyeing keycaps. You can see some of my work here: (http://imgur.com/a/A79CE) You'll want the Rit Dyemore that comes in a bottle, premixed in the black color. I would use disposable pipettes to measures 1-3ml of dye for the initial bath/shade (https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Graduated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0/).
>If they're PBT caps, you can bring the water to soft boil, add the caps and then just babysit them until you get the shade you're looking for. Then I'd use the pipette to add additional dye for the next shade and babyit that as well, repeating the process until you've got all the shades you're looking for.
>I'd also strongly suggest starting off with a series of test caps so you can get the timing, concentration, and process down pat. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions and good luck!
If you're looking to do a gradient type dye with one color like what I did, I would strongly recommend using both as little water as possible and as little dye as possible for your first shade. The longer the cap is in the dye bath the more even and consistent the color, but the darker it gets. Use lots of test caps to figure out the exact length of time to consistently get the shade you're looking for before proceeding. And I've found tapping the strainer up and down so that the caps jiggle around in the dye bath without being lifted out of it helps to make the color look more consistent.
these work too
yeah boofing shard is glorious!
I don't really swallow my meth because it's kind of a waste imo. I only did it once on accident my first time smoking crystal and I didn't melt it in the pipe so i inhaled everything i packed and swallowed it. That fucked with me because I had to stay up the next day because there was no chance of me getting sleep that day.
Meth has a strong burning taste i'd rather shove it up my ass than hold it in my mouth.
They're insanely cheap on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421345085&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pipettes
Inventory:
This is my first shot at this, but it seems like a cool passive hobby that'll also augment my facefur. I already plan to expand by getting a couple other carrier oils to balance out the jojoba—particularly either some grape seed or avocado oil and perhaps some Vitamin E.
Questions? Comments? Concerns? Suggestions?
* I'd also be remiss if I didn't mention there's a subreddit specifically for this (of course there is) at /r/beardoil. I'm gonna start posting in the hopes of livening it up a bit—if you're interested in picking this up as a hobby, come join me!
http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0
I use about three big droppers full of Trader Joe's tea tree oil (~9 ml) in a whole bottle of Suave Naturals conditioner (I usually use coconut, but I'm going to buy one of the no-protein ones when I run out), and shake it up. I massage a huge handful into my scalp and comb it through my hair (fine, curly, not very porous) and rinse with cool water, and my hair stays fresh smelling and soft, not greasy or flat. Give it a try, but maybe only mix a few drops of tea tree oil into a half cup of conditioner to start with, just in case you don't like it. You don't want to ruin a whole bottle of conditioner if the tea tree oil doesn't work for you!
I also use a tiny bit tea tree oil in the spray gel I use for styling, to keep it fresh smelling. It's a pretty versatile essential oil!
Hey man, I would love to help you quit smoking and didn't notice the first time I commented that you didn't have any experience with vaping. So I'm going to try to put together a list here of what you need to do to start vaping for very little money.
https://www.vapordna.com/Joyetech-eGo-AIO-All-In-One-Starter-Kit-p/egoaio.htm
This is another option for you.
https://www.vapordna.com/Eleaf-iCare-All-In-One-Ultra-Portable-System-p/icaref.htm
I love my Icare, but you will need to use high (24-36) mg ejuice with it, whereas with the ego you would need 12-24 mg/ml.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UGBG20/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488210602&amp;sr=1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PSGWHIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488210630&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=vg
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K8UB5VO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488210666&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=pg
https://www.nudenicotine.com/product/500ml-100mgml-100-pg-nicotine-base-for-mixing-only/?attribute_size=120mL&amp;attribute_solvent=100%25+PG
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081SRRFO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488210749&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=dropper+bottle
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQTSE0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488210793&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=pippettes+plastic+droppers
OPTIONAL: flavoring. If you want flavoring just ask in a reply I'll let you know what to get based on your tastes, but it's not necessary and you're trying to go cheap.
This is the recipe for making flavorless, 12 mg juice.
http://e-liquid-recipes.com/recipe/1240996/For+cheapos
You can make an account at that site and adapt that recipe to be higher or lower nicotine if you want.
I know this seems a lot more expensive than the Ryo cigarettes, but trust me, this makes like a year or two worth of liquid and the mods I suggested have really cheap coils. Please believe me, this is worth every penny of the investment, you will never regret it. If you need help with mixing your first batch of eliquid, go to r/diy_ejuice and look at the new mixer thread in the sidebar. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask me, but comment it cause I don't get message notifications on my phone app.
I went on a little shopping spree for my DIY/rebuildable stuff. Picked up the following:
5 glass beakers, 50-1000ml
4 oz amber glass boston round bottles, pack of 12
2x pack of 6 2oz amber bottles w/droppers
2x 2pack 8oz amber bottles
[labels for bottles] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z5SM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
100count transfer pipettes
2 10 packs of 5ml blunt tip syringes
Heated ultrasonic cleaner (for quick steeping)
100ft A1 32 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 30 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 28 AWG kanthal
12ft 2mm braided hollow Ekowool
Pair of locking hemostats
butane pencil torch (for torching ekowool)
This genius little invention - everyone should buy this, it was like six bucks
other than that, a couple anyvape mini davide glass clearos because the protank 2 group buy I organized will likely not have a replacable drip tip, and I need at least 2 mini glass tanks that can take my bds60 from captivape.
i need me a fucking workshop, not sure where I'm going to put all this stuff...
I recommend this and these
It’s a set of vials and syringes. I would recommend getting a vial holder as well. That way, you have all the vials in one places and are not as likely to spill. The vials are nice because you can test small batch mixtures. Label the tops of the vials and keep a notebook. Rhodia is good or something else that can show off sheen. This way, you can more down the vial designation, the proportions, the inks used and what the resulting color looks like.
Another thing you would want to learn about is color therapy because a cool yellow mixed with a warm blue will give you a different green than a warm yellow mixed with a cool blue. Rot dye has a great mixing chart that is a wonderful resource for color mixing.
Beyond that, different inks interact and react in sometimes unexpected ways when mixed, which is another reason to have small vials to see what the reactions are and if the ink start to separate or do something else unusual.
Mine is this one from Goulet, but once I got more than 40 vials I took it apart and laid the two layers side by side across a box (9.5" wide) I had handy. There are also racks like this one on amazon.
Get one from amazon, it'll be cheaper!
ETA: link $6 bucks!
Looks like this test tube holder from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Karter-Scientific-208U2-Plastic-Detachable/dp/B005Z4QWIK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452305718&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=test+tube+holder
I just have them floating in a drawer right now also, but a guy I work with uses this test tube rack and it works exceedingly well. I'll be picking one up soon, or one like it.
I get mine from Amazon, but I also use a lot of tubes. Instead of inking up my pens from bottles, I only use sample vials (or something like a TWSBi inkwell for my larger pens). It's a great way to avoid contamination of your ink. We live in a pretty moldy area, so I"m always concerned about fuzz on the pens syndrome.
Note: there are other types of tubes that are on eBay, but these cryotubes are by far the best. The other clear ones can't have 5ml unless you fill it to the brim, making a mess of things. These tubes are exactly like the ones sold on Goulet pens, only it has blue lids instead of clear.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QKMF2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you'd like a rack for your sample vials, here's a link to the one that I purchased. It is identical to hte ones sold on Goulet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z4QWIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You can buy them from Goulet pens, they have a 40 vials one.
I found this 50 vial holder, which is the same thing but bigger capacity. It works perfectly. (mine is almost full... I think I went overboard with it).
http://m.ebay.com/itm/281880651830?_mwBanner=1
100 for $9 vs 10 for $3 (+ $4 shipping) at Goulet. Comes out to 9 cents a piece vs 71 cents (with shipping) at Goulet. But remember they are literally on the slow boat from China from eBay!
You may also like this holder: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Z4QWIK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496098817&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=sample+vial+holder&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41dcT%2B82SsL&amp;ref=plSrch
It is less than half the cost on Amazon
Both of these products are identical to what Goulet sells.
BTW I LOVE GOULET and do most of my purchasing from them! Always like to support the local community :)
A few of these will make life easier for you.
This unit is pretty similar to the Goulet model, except it holds 50 samples instead of 40 and is only $6: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z4QWIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z4QWIK?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
I use a vial rack from amazon it was around 5.99 and holds 50 vials.
ETA link and state price is now $6.09
I also bought some tiny round stickers. I put one on top of each sample vial and put a little ink on the sticker. Makes it easier to find a certain color.
Ultra sonic cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_udByDb20V8XA4 - and a touch of dawn. Blindingly beautiful when they come out ❤️
I work with ultrasonic plastic welders and cutters. You can find welding quality ultrasonic stacks on ebay for relatively low prices (these are 700W approximately). Here. Here. Here.
You can also try to buy crystal stacks directly. These are usually designed for use in ultrasonic cleaning baths (50W approximately). Here. Here.
Alternatively you can try buying a consumer grade ultrasonic stain remover Here or an ultrasonic cleaning bath Here
Also, good luck, at least the systems I work with are irritatingly sensitive, especially when it comes to the design of the knife or tool.
I bought my fiancé a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for her ring from amazon and I stuck my month old Merkur in there and it came out brand new after about 5 mins.
My DE is usually almost completely white with soap scum after every shave, and I even rinse it with alcohol once I'm done.
Here's the link, we used about a teaspoon of mild dish detergent to go with it.
Magnasonic MGUC500 Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry & Eyeglass Cleaner With Digital Timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Xyicub0FDWB16
Also, my GF's ring looks like new after putting it in there.
I have a Sonic jewelry cleaner from Amazon that works wonders!
Not sponsored. I love this thing - nightly 3 minute clean.
Magnasonic Professional... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007Q2M17K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I used this one, and it got the job done pretty well. Usually, ultrasonic cleaners that are sufficient enough for casual use are under $50, while more "professional grade" or "industrial" ones will cost more than that. As for the process, it's tedious, but simple. I disassembled the switches until I got something looking like this, then I organized the parts into piles. I then washed each respective part pile by putting them in the cleaner and submerging it in water, and adding a very little amount of dish soap (about a quarter of a teaspoon). I ran the parts through the cleaner twice. To rinse them off, use distilled water so there are no water impurities left on the parts after the water evaporates. Finally, I waited for the parts to dry, I click modded them, and I put them back together.
Also, I'll head to the /r/olkb question thread to inquire about the Preonic case.
Hi and thanks for answer,
Will that ultrasonic cleaner works for cleaning all tank vape parts?
https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542571761&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41QxD1i5DkL&amp;ref=plSrch
This is the one I use and it works pretty good. Just don't put the actual watch in. Bracelet only.
https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&amp;qid=1558216329&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Is this the ultrasonic cleaner you're using?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_7SJYCbFX43EDP
.. by Jove, I think I am. I've heard of folks using brake CLEANER to strip models, hence my knee jerk reaction.
You can get an Ultrasonic on Amazon for like $40. https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500241361&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
It's also really good at cleaning uh smoking paraphernalia, not that I would know.
I am going to buy this one http://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-MGUC500-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglass/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418629775&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
Been meaning to order it but keep slacking. I got a whole chart ready to check out with the machine plus a bunch of supplements. Going to order today.
Got the Magnasonic and can’t recommend it enough. I love it and you can choose the amount for the cycles (shortest is 3 min) Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Eyeglasses, Rings, Coins (MGUC500) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NY7VDbVMQ9DJ6
This is an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner its under 30$ and works really well, you can use this to clean all your vape stuff and it takes very little effort. I highly suggest looking into getting one, it will save you a LOT of time and effort, and really works a lot better anyway, best of luck to you and happy vaping :)
https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K
J'ai essaye un nettoyeur a ultrason de ce genre. C'est impressionnant toute la merde qui se detache d'on ne sait ou et que tu vois naviguer a la surface en quelques secondes.
I got this one a few weeks ago and it makes a big difference in the amount of time I spend cleaning pens. Not only am I spending less time cleaning them, but more of them are cleaned more often because it's so easy to do.
I have and really like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/
I use this Magnasonic US cleaner. It does a decent job but I can't recommend it. I've had to repair it once (because of this!) and it is limited to 480sec (8min) maximum cycle. I usually run it two or three times for cleaning atty's.
It says that it have just 3 minutes cycles, that's too low. I'd recommend a cleaner with at least 8 minutes cycle, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 , which isn't that much expensive after all.
You say that it has an acidic taste, but is it really acidic? Time to bust out your old chemistry set! You can get a set of litmus strips on Amazon for only 4 bucks which will tell you if it is actually acidic, or if you are just tasting some weird flavor aspects (like too much citrus).
If it is truly acidic you have a few options. You can blend it with a more alkaline mead, or you can add some calcium carbonate mix it up until fully dissolved (I siphon around 1/2 gallon of mead from a 6.5 gallon carboy, mix 1 tablespoon into that, and re-add that to the rest, then stir) and let it settle for a day, and test the PH again, rinse and repeat until you're at where you want to be, if it's really acidic, you can do 2 tablespoons.
I ordered it yesterday, but I won't have a way to test the pH...
Actually, I'll buy some strips to test this product is someone can point me in the direction of some that don't suck. I can't seem to find the ones that OP used though. Would these work?
I got some pH test strips from Amazon here they are, I tested some things last night and here are my results:
Tap water - 7-8 pH
GoW 5% mandelic acid serum - 3 pH
Stridex Red Box - 5 pH
I also tried to pH test my CeraVe cleanser, but I don't know how that works since it's a gel.
After doing a search on here, it looks like my pH readings are way off. Any ideas?
I bought mine off Amazon!
Raves:
Andalou Naturals Acai + White Tea Oil Free Moisturizer: It's lightweight, non-greasy, doesn't contain fatty alcohols (pore-clogging for some) and has great ingredients (antioxidants, anti-irritants & skin-repairing agents). I really like it.
New Purchases:
Devita Natural Skin Care Acne Solution Pads: I found these on iHerb. I was excited about the ingredients. Unfortunately, the pH is 5 according to my pH strips so it's NOT an effective BHA. I'll use these on my body and I will not repurchase.
GoW Salicylic Acid 2% Pads: I use these nightly to exfoliate. These are gentle (slight, transient tingle) and super moisturizing. The pH is 4 according to my pH strips so it's an effective BHA. I like them so far.
GoW Majik Anti-Popup Blemish Gel: I bought this because I'm curious about Azeloyl Glycine (a derivative of Azelaic Acid) and Niacinamide. I'm not sure about the coconut cream for my oily, acne-prone skin. I'll use it as a nightly spot treatment to deter blemishes.
GoW Enriched Oat Facial Serum: I bought this because my skin responds well to DIY oat flour masks when irritated. I'll use this to an an anti-inflammatory serum after MUAC chemical peels.
MUAC 25% Mandelic Acid Peel: I can't wait to try this to fade PIH from acne. It should be gentle and effective on my deep brown skin (Fitzpatrick V). I think it'll help acne as well. I'll use it weekly for the first two peels then use it every four days.
JJ Labs Skin Solutions Vitamin C Serum 25% with Hyaluronic Acid: I bought this from Etsy after seeing it on an Into the Gloss 'Top Shelf' post. It has a light gel-like texture, is non-greasy and moisturizing. The pH is 3 according to my pH strips so it's an effective vitamin C product. I'll use this this nightly.
I will make up a batch of StarSan and keep it for several weeks. I bought some inexpensive pH test strips from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IBOG7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00). I dip one into the solution, and as long as the pH is 3 or lower I'm good to go. Haven't had a problem with sanitation.
http://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY
2 litre soda bottles actually are shipped as preforms that can be expanded before they are filled. I guess heating them up without pressure returns them towards their original size?
I use a small Coca Cola bottle they used to sell. 150ml I think. I also know you can buy a 2L bottle in it's pre-inflated state. Soda Bottle Preform
Its a preform https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY
You can order them online
I built this for about $20 (not including the erlenmeyer and the stir bar).
I got the cigar box a while back at a second hand store.
Here's the USB powered PC fan I used:
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381376532&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+pc+fan
I chose a usb fan so that I could power it with an android usb phone charger and not screw around with splicing wires.
Here's the magnets I used (just needed one though):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1M37MY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Aside from that it just took a few odd nuts, washers, and a bit of superglue. I had to bore the hole in top of the cigar box because the box turned out to be a bit too thick (sorry Pepin Garcia!) to get enough attraction between the magnet and the stir bar. I think I might have had better luck with stronger magnets or a different stir bar but oh well.
As someone suggested I first glued a washer to the fan so that I could move the magnet around a but to find the sweet spot where it didn't shake too bad then I glued the washer in place.
I used the long bolts/nuts that came with the fan to attach it to the lid (you can see the bolts in the first picture). Between the top of the fan and the lid I had to add washers to keep the fan from rubbing on the cigar box.
That's pretty much it. The fan has a variable speed control but I get a small vortex on the lowest setting, and higher settings throws the bar off the magnet.
Now I just need to wait for my soda preforms to show up so I can start saving a bit more yeast after I use the stir plate!
http://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381377304&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=bottle+preforms
I got the idea for using the soda preforms from here:
http://www.mikebeer.net/reuseyeast.htm
Cheers
Have you considered bottle blanks? Pretty cheap option and just like what White labs used for years. Bottle Blanks
Are you looking for just the pouch or a complete kit? Bumps and bruises or blowout kit?
I don't run it on the outside of my bag, but my EDC medical setup is a CAT, Israeli bandage, trauma shears, and some everyday meds (IB, benadryl, etc) in a crush-proof tube shoved into an M16 magazine pouch.
Mag pouch - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AELX61A/
Pill tubes - https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY/
Assuming your pints are partially filled with spent wort, you can siphon that off and just fill old White Labs tubes with the yeast. If you don't have any old tubes kicking around you can just grab some of these
Oh wow, I'll have to give these a go. I've been using a few of the Nalgene Travel Bottle Kit bottles for olive oil, hot sauce, etc, and soda bottle pre-forms for batteries and some other stuff. But they're too big for most things like seasoning/spices, and not big enough for stuff like pancake mix.
I do a similar thing, but these are the tubes I use. I bought two sets of them several years ago and they still work great. I replace the caps every so often. For the rack, I just keep them in six pack holders and put them in the keezer. I fill the unused vials with StarSan solution and store them that way.
I'd also like to add that, after I have racked a new beer into the fermentor, I pour the leftover trub into a mason jar, and then let it sit in the fridge for a day. Usually the trub separates to the bottom leaving a fair bit of usable wort. I give it another quick boil just to make sure its sterile and then make a small starter of something. After pouring off much of the beer, I can usually get about 10 vials of slurry.
I've found it's easier to smuggle alcohol in if you're female. The giant purse I carry to events is a black hole. Most guards only give it a cursory glace through. So if you're not female, get a female friend to do you a solid and sneak the booze in.
[Disguised as tampons.] (https://www.amazon.com/Booze-Tubes-Tampon-Wrappers-1-Ounce/dp/B00CLBWRCA?ie=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0)
[Hidden in a bra.] (https://www.amazon.com/WineRack-200-008-Wine-Rack-Medium/dp/B001FYZZI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465505991&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wine+bra)
[Hidden in a hairbrush.] (https://www.amazon.com/Smuggle-Your-Booze-Hairbrush-Hidden/dp/B016Y894UI/ref=pd_sim_79_6?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41sHUHq7bYL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=NQH5MK446202FNFWNKMP)
Though [floppy flasks] (https://www.amazon.com/Smuggle-Your-Booze-Floppy-Flasks/dp/B00DUKGNLW/ref=pd_sim_79_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51TcXpxqaAL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL320_SR256%2C320_&amp;refRID=0JH3TQ34DD75026GCHYE) work for both genders.
And there is always the [umbrella flask.] (https://www.amazon.com/Umbrella-Flask-Seals-Speed-Pourer/dp/B00O7FA072/ref=pd_sim_79_5?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41rkBnPeCAL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=AZ06SADV4PMJYB3YXTTB)
Have a guy place it next to the frank and beans. A bulge is normal and the door man isn't likely to touch there. Or there's always the Wine Rack or the tampon flask.
These fit nicely in your purse, and security never messes with them too closely.
I am struggling with this too, so I will take notes from this thread (thank you).
What I am doing thus far:
tampon flasks because I found them online and thought they were hilarious, and my girls are similarly natured
A mini bottle of her favorite alcohol for each lady (they are all of age)
Custom compact mirrors that I found on etsy; I can customize one for each gal based on her interests (one is getting a disney themed, one is getting PSU, etc)
A necklace to wear for the wedding (so technically not a gift, but they are beautiful so hopefully they will like them anyhow)
Also providing mani/pedi the day before (well my MIL is gifting this to us, so SHE is providing that), hair and makeup for the service, and getting ready food (breakfast and lunch).
As far as other gift ideas though, I am completely clueless. I wanted to make little gift boxes or wedding survival kits for each of them, but I dunno yet.
second on the aptasia, get rid of them. If you don't want to purchase something just to eat them, or they don't get eaten, the hot water method of killing them worked great for me.
Boil some water, take an industrial syringe and suck up some of the water. Blast the aptasia with the water at close range, this should kill it, but will also losen it up a bit. Then reverse suction on the syringe and suck it right out of whatever little hole it's living in. Plenty of youtube videos on it, and a lot cheaper than buying special chemicals.
Mix http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CK32JXU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1459371669&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=ejmix&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31s2734ti5L&amp;ref=plSrch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AU6Y6C2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459371760&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=small+beaker&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31-J48-oRpL&amp;ref=plSrch beakers for mixing and measuring and cooking
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DXPRTHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459371820&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=blunt+tip+syringe&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=21SzolFINTL&amp;ref=plSrch syringe to transfer liquid and I use mine to stir the solution while it warms up
Right here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DXPRTHG
I love these things. Perfect for dosing. Could have used less than 10 but I'm glad I got them. I Velcro them to their respective bottles.
My 50G on this 5lb tank lasts 1 year to 1.5 years.
5lb co2 Tank- New Aluminum Cylinder with CGA320 Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_dzYNsK4I2fzHX
Fluval sells this simple kit. It does get expensive replacing their specialized cartridges, but it's a good place to start if you're only ready to get your toes wet.
If you want to go bigger, it'll cost more upfront, but is cheaper to maintain.
Amazon Shopping list for CO2 under $200:
Cheap Regulator. There are better/nicer/higher quality ones out there. This one is cheap and okay.
Drop Checker
Diffuser
Check Valve
CO2 tubing
Thread tape
Adjustable wrench
5lb cylinder less than $15 to fill at gas supply store
Why would you go for a shitty paintball setup when you could have really high quality two-stage regulator for 15£≈20$ more, not includimg a CO2-cylinder?
Another option with only a single-stage regulator, this is prone to a end-of-tank-dump, but you can read the fillimg status on the second manometer
Simply get your CO2-cylinder locally. Or from Amazon
edit: To expand on this: Both setups paintball setups are bad. The pressure regulator that fits on a piantball-cylinder does not have a manometer to measure the pressure inside the bottle, so the end-of-tank-dump will likely happen, because you have no way to anticipate it.
IMO: Go for the dual-stage system. No worries about end-of-tank-dumps and a system that will last your whole life as aquarist.
Yeah there's a discount if you return the canister.
Or you could probably buy in bulk:
https://www.amazon.com/Tank-Aluminum-Cylinder-CGA320-Valve/dp/B00HQQ3WWE
https://www.amazon.com/External-CGA-320-System-Adapter-stainless/dp/B01GIL5EUU/
I wish Soda Stream them self just sold larger canisters so I don't need to change it out so often. Would be cheaper for them and for me too due to marginal cost scaling.
So here we go,
First off a Danby 4.4 Cu Ft fridge, something like this. I got this off of some one on craigslist for a $100. I tried to talk them down but some one had informed them that the fridge was valuable to home brewers.
The tap tower was purchased on amazon.
The line connections were also purchased there, since the ones that came on the tower were incorrect for the five gallon kegs.
The temperature controller was also purchased on amazon. Really amazon was my go to.
Here is the CO2 tank I anticipate buying. I haven't really picked out a regulator yet.
I've gone the DIY c02 route and it is just not worth it. You can buy a regulator and 5lb tank off amazon for like 120$ and that will set you up for a year. Then it's like 15$ per refill. You can dial the c02 to whatever level your tank needs. IMHO I'd get pressurized c02 just so I don't have to deal with algae problems.
The number of hours spent refilling soda bottles, growing yeast, cleaning, dealing with c02 swings and no precise control with very very little benefit to show for it. Easily cost more than 120$ in time, effort and supplies.
Tank
Regulator
I'm glad you said something because I wouldn't have known anything about this. I'm using a very small 5lb gas cylinder like this. Do you think Air Liquide would have any concern about this tank? I was planning on putting it in the back seat of my 4runner..
Ferts - http://greenleafaquariums.com
Co2 Regulator - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/copy-of-archaea-co2-regulator-pro-dual-gauge-fits-cga-320
5lb Co2 tank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3ONOLGNT00SR9. Co2 diffuser - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MLTRR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Bubble counter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GCPM6K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Co2 Drop Checker - http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-Aquatic-CO2-Glass-Drop-Checker-PH-Momitor-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Test-CO2-Kit-/391351972319?varId=660586838351&amp;txnId=650126189026 Co2 tubing and check valve - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/pressure-proof-tube-parts-set
Co2 Drop Checker Solution - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/ph-kit-ph-reagent-refill-for-drop-checker
That should be everything. I would look into EI dosing too. Especially if you're going with dry ferts. You'll have to find a place near you that can fill the Co2 tank. I get mine filled at Beer Depot. Any home brewery store will have the equipment necessary to refill a 5lb Co2 tank. Welding stores also refill Co2 tanks. If you're really luck, you may have an awesome LFS that refills tanks too. If I missed anything, or if you have any more questions, please let me know. =)
You could probably get away with just doing everything mentioned, but just using a Tupperware container and gently shaking it every 10-20 minutes or so within an hour of soaking with the denture tablets. Ultrasonic cleaners are pretty cheap though, especially compared to HP switches: https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-Instruments/dp/B00HZVYAVM
This is the one I bought and it works great; There are many on Amazon like it. I use 1/2 tablet of denture cleaner (I use target brand) in the ultrasonic cleaner morning and night.
They aren't that expensive, bought mine for 30 bucks and works like a charm. Here's the Amazon link
I just got a magnasonic on Amazon. It was this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZVYAVM?psc=1
Right about $35. I just opened it up last night. It seems well built but I don't have anything to compare it to. I haven't run any coils through it yet but it did clean the jewelery that I tested it out with. This one has the auto 3 minute timer that someone mentioned. So if you want it to run longer, you have to press the On button again after it shuts off.
Vodka or rubbing alcohol. Or denatured alcohol. It may dry the o-rings out some, but otherwise you'll be good to go.
May also want to give a cheap ultrasonic cleaner a try. I used distilled water in that to clean everything. Works pretty well.
I use a test tube holder
I take the blade out and dry it off but use it multiple times.
I combine aftershave balm and splash together and apply it to a damp face.
Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I13ZNIC
As for ease of disassembly, I'll report back when I get off work
This is the one that I got from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I13ZNIC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It is pretty nice. Seems sturdy. Might look at getting little rubber feet for the bottom to stop any accidental sliding. The only thing to know would be any TTO razors will be less steady than a two/three piece just because of the lowered bar in the middle being the part in contact with the wood instead of the whole (or at least both sides) head like a three piece.
Here is a couple pictures I took of mine. http://imgur.com/a/w93ge
(Dovo 5/8 straight, slim, 34c, red flare tip, black handle flare tip, wilkinson sword). There is a little less than 1mm difference between the diameter of the hole and the width of of the straight where it meets. Not snug, but not enough room to rattle.
Edit: Straight razor size
yeah right now I'm using a test tube rack to hold my razors and my brushes are just sitting on my counter kinda out of the way
Yeah test tube racks are great for storing. This one works well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I13ZNIC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got it off amazon for about 12 bucks with prime shipping.
test tub holder
I would avoid eBay, you can grab a gallon from Amazon of Essential Depot for $7.20 more, get double the amount (1 gal vs 1/2 gal) and have it shipped free same day (with Prime). This is what I bought last month, no issues. I tried a liter first and was also fine.
Or like /u/afflaq mentioned, if you are looking for more, 4gal comes in at $70 direct from Essential Depot.
EDIT, I believe the same day shipping is $35 on Amazon, so grab a few 8oz bottles to store it in for use.
You're going to pay like a thousand bucks for that much bubble solution, plus shipping and handling. My advice would be to pick up an empty drum, a couple of buckets of liquid detergent, and a gallon of glycerin; and make it yourself in your back yard. You'd be looking at more like $250 plus shipping (particularly, you're going to save S&H on 400 pounds of water). There's lots of recipes online but you'd generally be looking at 1 part detergent to 6-8 parts water, and 1 part glycerin to 12-16 parts detergent.
1g for $27 + shipping.
Or 1g for $35 with Prime free shipping.
Or $18+$9 shipping.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
$18.00 per gallon with an additional $9.00 for shipping. If you order two, its the same $9.00 shipping. So comes out to $22.50 each delivered to my door. I have found a few better deals on occasion but I like the square jugs and how they fit my shelves.
I came here to tell you to order VG from Amazon. I got a gallon for about $13, but it appears that the price almost doubled (I was going to provide link).
Does anyone know why VG price increased so much?
Edit: Link with new, almost doubled price. Was $13 _ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use Essential Depot on Amazon they are top notch. Super cheap. Ship crazy fast. I only found it one time at Wal-Mart and used a small bottle. Aslong as the proper grades ans safety checks are on the bottle you'll be fine!! Hope that helps.
You can go to Amazon and buy from Essential Depot. Their VG is pretty good quality and you can get a gallon for around $28 and a quart for around $13 with shipping included. Sometimes these guys sell "Cube boxes" which will include 4 x gallon sizes of VG or PG for around $60-80 depending on the sale price. But you can find them on Amazon here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
you need to get a ph meter: https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=lp_393271011_1_3?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511300438&amp;sr=1-3 will suffice.
I would recommend a water/nutrient pH of 6.4 for promix as it is a peat based media that is acidic. Meaning your pH should be about 6.2, but if you add 6.2 and hits the acidic peat, it will not be that anymore. Some people argue lower pH for soiless, but let me assure you that at 6.4 in results in a 5.6ish out. I personally think you are safe with a pH 5.4-6.2 out. What I mean by out is run-off, you need to feed enough liquid so that ~20% just drains through. Placing the pot in a pail during feeding/watering helps. This will drain extra salts.
Also, you should add perlite (1/3 volume) with promix as it can cause drainage problems and water retention if you don't. Think about that before you transplant. You may need to also add dolomite lime in the future. Read up on that please, just thinking ahead for you, and letting you avoid mistakes I had made. It doesn't take a lot, but helps to stabilize your pH and provides cal/mag.
>Not sure what EC means
It means Electroconductivity and refers to the salinity of your water.
Do you know how hard your water is? If its too hard, you need to dilute it with RO water. Some people just use RO water only, but supplement it with CalMag solution. If you don't know what's in your tap water, call the water department and ask them. They most probably posted your water analysis online.
Yur just lucky I'm feeling nice ;)
EDIT: And ffs quit giving them miracle grow!
I got one from Jellas and I'm very happy with it, which I'll link at the end of this reply. It's been quite accurate for my purposes. I occasionally put it in distilled water to make sure it's not falling out of calibration and so far it hasn't drifted, but if it does it has a screw to adjust it back. The batteries are easy to replace, and it's easy to slide it in past the pellicle and get a quick measurement. I'm actually on my second unit because I accidentally broke the bulb on the first one while drying it. Definitely let it air dry. I always rinse it right before and right after using it. It's a great way to make sure you're brewing a consistent product, since you will know exactly when your first and second fermentations are finished. Remember that pH is logarithmic so the rate of change will not be linear, and the difference in acidity between 4.0 and 3.0 is not 25%, it's 1,000%. I start the second fermentation at 3.4-3.6 and finish around 3.1-3.2.
Jellas Pocket Size PH Meter / PH Tester / Mini Water Quality Tester for Household Drinking Water, Hydroponics, Aquariums, Swimming Pools, PH 0-14.0 Me https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_hkOrr63kSbWzQ
Sorry for the slow response.
That is good your budget is flexible and you want to do it right from the start.
I think the tent is a good choice, and you have lots of vertical height which is great. Are you in a grow friendly state? The reason I ask is they might have some sales at local hydroponic and gardening stores that you might consider. Your plant will have at least a foot above it for clearance from the light and a foot below where you've got your pot. So your actual plant will probably just be around 4 feet tall.
I know a lot of people in america use fox farms soil and the fox farms nutrient line up. Seems to be successful. I am going a slightly more organic method using General Organics nutrients and pro mix with some compost as my soil. The fox farms soil has starting food in it while the pro mix is inert, which means full control of the food for the grower but less of a safety net for the plant if you mess it up.
There is a lot of options when it comes to food, each company has a ton of products. To get you going though I would just use the vegatative food and the flowering food. And some calmag. Everything else is just optional and you can always use next time.
Once you've got your medium and food sorted, you'll want to be able to check your ph levels.
Also grab some of the bottles of ph up and down so you can adjust it accordingly before you feed your ladies.
You'll need a tent to fit your space, I would browse amazon for deals and base your decision on their reviews!
As for what pots to use, I started using fabric pots and they are great. They allow for less over watering because the medium can breathe more easily. You'll want to start in 4 inch pots, then maybe to a gallon, then 3 gallons, perhaps all the way to 5 if you want. Kinda depends on how many plants you decide to keep? I grow small numbers and big plants.
After that you've just got to decide on lighting and ventilation. I don't know a lot about LEDs except that it cuts down on electricity and heat. Some people invest in american companies but they can be quite expensive. A popular method is just ordering cheap LED fixtures from china and not worrying too much if they break because they are so cheap.
/u/Legal_In_OR might stop by here to give some LED advice. He uses top of the line LEDS but I am wondering if he has insight on some of the cheaper options to get you going.
We also have lots of useful information on our website. http://www.herbgrow.co/
Feel free to ask more questions.
ph meter from amazon
I have this one and it works well! 16 bucks too so I recommend this if you are looking to purchase one!
Cheap ph meter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501379477&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ph+meter&amp;psc=1
If you live in a legal state, just buy a used digital Mh/hps system preferably 1000w.
Use advanced nutrients
http://www.advancednutrients.com/nutrient-calculator/
I like how you asked for cheaper than $30 and people respond with $200 probes lmao.
I got these two off Amazon cheap, like $15 each.
I've tested them in r/o water and they seem to be accurate, the tds measures up with my water report from the city on my tap water and reads r/o at 0.
I haven't had any issues with my plants as far as ph or PPM.
Here are the ones I got.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483110799&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ph+meter+for+water&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41w2JXOokIL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EWZBB3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483110821&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=tds+water+testing+meter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51JKkIc76NL&amp;ref=plSrch
Noodler's Ahab. You can use any sort of eyedropper-like tool, but I prefer a blunt-tip syringe, such as this one.
It's this syringe. I think the problem may be the needle-like tip so I'll check out the baby syringe.
Glad you asked! One thing we have to remember about Prime is that it does not remove the ammonia, it just renders it harmless. So the result is a "false positive" on standard ammonia tests. It will still be there but it is no longer harming your fish.
If you would like peace-of-mind you can get a Free vs Total Ammonia test kit. This kit allows you to measure the amounts of Free (harmful) ammonia vs. the Total (harmless once Prime is involved).
Even if you aren't going to get some, read the description on Amazon. It is really helpful in understanding Ammonia chemistry.
For measuring ANYTHING for your aquarium, go to your local drugstore pharmacy (Even Walmart pharmacies will do this) and ask them for free syringes. They are absolutely AWESOME for measuring anything that takes very small measurements such as Prime. If for whatever reason you can't get some for free from a drug store, order a set like this. I use the 1ml and 5ml syringes every single day.
Edit: I suck at spelling....
2% is NOT high thc....it’s extremely low! I’d also recommend to use a heavy indica strain given what you’ve reported since you’re looking for more calming effects vs. high energy. Your specific condition could be the cause of how you’re not feeling any effects, so it’s probably best to significantly bump up your intake.
Buy distillate syringes ($65 at Surterra) and just make infused coconut oil. Distillate is up to 90% thc and will go a long way....Plus you can truly control your dosages by concentrating them as much as you’d like.
All you have to do is heat up unrefined coconut oil in a Pyrex container, put the distillate into the hot oil and start stirring for a few minutes. Once it emulsifies it’s ready to use. The distillate is very thick, so put the syringe into hot water for a minute So that it becomes less viscous and then remove the cap to dispense it.
Example - let’s say there’s 850mg of thc in one distillate syringe and you use 50ml of coconut oil.
850/50 = 17mg of thc per ml of oil. You aren’t just limited to using one distillate syringe - feel free to use more to make your infused oil more potent.
Buy a blunt tip luer lock syringe with ml measurements and then simply put it into your own empty capsules. You can buy the syringe and the capsules on amazon for very cheap. You can also use these blunt tip syringes to measure your coconut oil to ensure he dosages will be right. Links to the items you need below
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Liquids-cigs-juice/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=blunt+tip+syringe&amp;qid=1554677628&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Gel-Capsules-250-Empty/dp/B00E40DJ82/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=3VTB07WR7494G&amp;keywords=capsules+00&amp;qid=1554677715&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=capsules&amp;sr=8-7
You can also dispense the distillate straight into your own cartridges and vape it, but be sure to use only a ceramic cartridge. Do not include any coconut oil into your vape...just distillate
Blunt Tip Syringe
https://www.amazon.com/Bstean-Syringe-Blunt-Tip-Needle/dp/B01HFTYINS
Well, since I've never tried it, I'm not sure - you can find smaller blunt tips - here's an example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS?psc=1
Look around a little - there's a ton of this kind of stuff.
I have this set: Bstean Syringe with Blunt Tip Needle and Cap - 10ml, 5ml, 3ml, 1ml Syringes and 14ga 16ga 18ga 20ga Blunt Needles - Great for Oil or Glue Applicator (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=cm_sw_r_api_9nZhAbF628E32
Look on Amazon they sell them their for decent prices.
Here are the ones I picked up and they have worked great.
(Bstean Syringe Blunt Tip Needle and Cap)[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uNE3CbDYR36ZN]
I hope I edited the link correctly.
Here's one option - the metal tips are a lot more precise than what you find at Hobby Lobby and other craft stores (the plastic tips don't get small enough)
https://www.amazon.com/Purpose-Precision-Applicator-Assortment-Henna/dp/B01IPOJSF0
Oh, this looks even better:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS
I bought these and they work pretty well for injecting dielectric grease into the hole in the stab that the wire goes in
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HFTYINS?psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-stirrer-magnetic-Stirring-Capacity/dp/B072K24X5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3HRCHDJ7MIVEY&amp;keywords=magnetic+stirrer&amp;qid=1550973819&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=magnetic+stir&amp;sr=8-3
This is the one I use. With a mag stirrer you shouldn’t need any heat at all. Especially for standard concentrations. It’s flat out amazing. Takes all the work out of it. No sitting there stirring with a glass rod for a half hour. Just set it and walk away. Come back a half hour later and you have freshly made gear all in perfect solution.
I just started using kegs and it has made everything easier. I built a keezer recently, bottling everything became massive chore, and carbonating is easier. https://photos.app.goo.gl/JKegtXLcNKLTACaw8
And as far as SNA, I never do that, I've tried it and never really tasted a difference and it's a hassel. I bought a cheap stir plate and start my yeast a day before and that seemed to make much more of a difference. This is the one I got and don't worry about buying a stir bar if you get it, the stir plate comes with one. Magnetic Stirrer Magnetic Mixer with stir bar (No Heating) Max Stirring Capacity: 3000ml https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072K24X5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h2x4CbYEJT43Z.
If you get kegs try to buy used ones, I bought all mine used, they really don't fo bad you just have to change seals from time to time or the posts.
https://youtu.be/dRkXaa8ttM8
Check out this video by chilli chump. Basically, he makes a mash by blending the cayenne with some salt and ferments it for 3 weeks. Using mason jars with airlocks. Some people use a salt brine but he doesnt. Then after it's fermented he adds equal parts vinegar and blends it using a Magnetic Stirrer with stir bar for three more weeks to emulsify the sauce. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072K24X5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hx0LDb25B73YH
Don't think he adds Xanthan gum but a lot of people do. He made his own stir plate by attaching magnets to a computer fan. He linked a video on how he make that.
I got a flask and a stir plate off amazon for under 60 bucks. This is the stir plate I got and works well with either 1L or 2L at the slow speeds used for a yeast starter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072K24X5P/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_CzfSAbA9NTVQ0
Since you're looking at Amazon reviews when considering your purchase, I found this guy for a decent price with 4.5 stars on Amazon. I do not currently own a stir plate, but when I worked at a nanobrewery (only making one-barrel batches), we used one. It definitely made things more efficient.
Best of luck in your brewing adventures!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072K24X5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522170713&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=magnetic+stirrer&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=519kNn%2BnsbL&amp;ref=plSrch
2-liter bottle blank? Amazon
Preform: https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY
Soda Bottle Preforms and Caps (30/pk) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kRgwCbRD41AA3
“All plastic soda or "pop" bottles start as a small plastic tube called a preform. When this preform is heated and blown into a bottle shape, it is ready to be filled with your favorite carbonated beverage.”
Just buy some if you like them... https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487440522&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=soda+preform
I run a homebrew store and absolutely hate the damn vials. Bags are much easier to keep track of, arrange and take less space.
my roommate uses these
https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Soda+Bottle+Preforms+and+Caps&qid=1558506263&s=industrial&sr=1-2
&#x200B;
they're called soda bottle preforms and he keeps joints in there and instead of the caps he uses corks, keeps the smell locked in
https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY
Here's a link to those tubes. They're pretty common, you might be able to find a better price than that.
They're food-grade (obviously) so they supposedly work well. Haven't used them myself though. These should only be used for starters though. After storage you're likely not going to have enough viability in a single vial for a healthy pitch.
Something similar to the vials are [soda bottle preforms.] (https://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY) I heard about them recently, but can't remember the exact context. Might be heavier than necessary.
I've heard somewhere somebody suggested soda bottle preforms. I've no experience with them but seems a good idea for making slants.
http://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY
It’s a Parison, or preform.
Soda Bottle Preforms and Caps (30/pk) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WtjNDbHME51EK
Soda bottle preforms
http://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1368476532&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=soda+bottle+preforms
I usually go 100 billion - same as comes in a commercial yeast pack.
I save them back in my original White Labs vial, or in one of these.
Amazon. Soda Bottle Preforms and Caps 30/$23.39 USD
http://amzn.com/B008MB1QNY
https://www.amazon.com/Booze-Tubes-Tampon-Wrappers-1-Ounce/dp/B00CLBWRCA
If you're going with a girl use these tampon flask
Female friends coming with you? Load up on [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Booze-Tubes-Tampon-Wrappers-1-Ounce/dp/B00CLBWRCA)
Wear a kilt, daring them to feel you up, while wearing a garter flask, or make your own.
why dont you buy this. I know a few of my friends did it plenty of times and got it all in flawlessly
https://www.amazon.com/Booze-Tubes-Tampon-Wrappers-1-Ounce/dp/B00CLBWRCA
Superglue doesn't work very well. Loctite 404 is the best I've found of the cyanoacrylates, but it tops out at "okay," unless you're willing to put in a lot of surface prep.
ABS glue works great, though it can be a pain to use. You want to make your own: get some acetone and some ABS. Undyed pellets are best, like this: https://www.amazon.com/IC3D-Printer-Plastic-Pellets-Natural/dp/B00MG5PF5M/ , though you should be able to find cheaper. Put some pellets in a small jar, and add acetone. You're probably looking to end up around 2 parts acetone to 1 part pellets by volume, but you can adjust it pretty far either way. Mix them together through a combination of stirring and shaking. This will take a while, and you'll probably need to let them soak periodically. They won't dissolve all the way without mixing, and they wont mix without soaking, so it's just going to take a while. Eventually though, you'll have a good that you can brush or squirt onto PLA to make it stick together. I mostly use mine with an industrial syringe, with a pin in the needle to keep a channel open. It's easy to dispense, and fairly convenient. For large applications or for painting onto a bed, I use acid brushes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEUC8SK/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DXPRTHG/
You can also weld pieces together with a dremel. This is a very good join for large pieces, especially with straight seams, but can be rough for detail work. There's a description here: http://www.scorchworks.com/Blog/friction-welding-with-a-dremel-rotary-tool/
look on amazon, between the item description and the "questions ask/answered" section regarding the product, i have seen some where this information is provided. 0.1ml is the amount delivered from one i saw i believe.
-
I recommend this one... it's 30ml but EASILY fits into your pocket.
-
the glass one here is much better then the plastic one from the same company, and i'm relatively sure it delivers 0.1ml per squirt
-
To make sure, simply fill it with an amount of water measured using an oral syringe (available for free at almost all pharmacys, just ask the pharmacist, say that your little brother got some medicine that requires one for measurement and needs it... though i prefer ones with a long blunt tip, available on amazon as well [here's the 10ml ones i often use and love] (https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk010-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=nav_ya_signin?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467798872&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=10+ml+blunt+tip+syringe&amp;)
-
and [here's some 1ml ones] (https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk001-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00NDETMR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467798956&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1ml+blunt+tip+syringe) that i got but haven't tried yet, they reviewed well though
I bought Duda Energy Syringepk010 Industrial Syringes with 15G x 1-1/2" Blunt Tip Fill Needle and Plastic Cover, 10 mL (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SyBEzbN1K6M1M off amazon for 15$.
Might be able to find cheaper for a single. But I wanted some extras.
I'll hook up bro!
Use ecig express to order Flavor Concentrates and bottles
— Use ELRECIPIES for 10% discount
Use The Flavor Apprentice/The Perfume Apprentice for Flavor concentrates
— Be sure that they are made for ecigs
— Better than ecig for bulk orders
Buy vegetable glycerin, and syringes from amazon
— Buy a gallon for bulk
— Buy 10ml, and 1ml syringes
— Buy Tupperware or something to contain 16 oz of liquid to steep ejuice
Buy nicotine from Nude Nicotine
—Purchase “Smooth” Nicotine salts
https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk001-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00NDETMR2/ref=pd_lutyp_bia_3_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00NDETMR2&amp;pd_rd_r=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC&amp;pd_rd_w=NhTrE&amp;pd_rd_wg=Rt1HG&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop-typ-carousels&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=2798022962&amp;pf_rd_r=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-typ-carousels&amp;pf_rd_t=40701&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC
https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk010-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=pd_sim_328_5?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00DXPRTHG&amp;pd_rd_r=G7GP5J47E1CRQPHET2VD&amp;pd_rd_w=yULCb&amp;pd_rd_wg=yRWOy&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=G7GP5J47E1CRQPHET2VD
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.ecigexpress.com
http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com
https://www.nudenicotine.com/product/nicotine-salts-smooth/
I got these just the other day. I diddn't need ten but you get them for less than a dollar a piece. I dont have a saltwater tank so im not sure what you are looking for, I use these for measuring and dosing fertilizers
yep
I also use one for water testing so I can suck exactly 5ml of water out of a tank for the lil test tube without contaminating the sample by sticking my hands in there.
Sounds good, per your persuasion, I've decided to get some Krytox 205/105(or104) and mix 60/40.
I plan to just mix them in a small vial and I guess I can use any syringe like this and use it to apply to my switches?
Ha, right? I always feel awkward ordering syringes/needles, but in reality the gauge you need to pull oil is far to large to easily fit under skin...but try explaining that one without a side look. I buy type 2 fill needles (http://www.amazon.com/Industrial-Syringes-Blunt-Needle-plastic/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=pd_sim_0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=21SzolFINTL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1W5Y0DNPKFJYV3SEHG0Z)
I got then on amazon for about $10. Here is the link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DXPRTHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1421263500&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
I use aiptasia-x and they work for me.
Thanks for the cool tek! That sounds like its a worth a shot.
I have some of these syringes on their way to my house. :)
Personally, I would buy this tank and solenoid for a third time, maybe even the multi chambered.
Yea I feel ya. I'm getting this co2 tank with this regulator
I wanted to get the 5lb cause it will last a long time and is only like $15 to refill at the welding supply near me. I hopefully won't have to upgrade until I get my 250g tank and ill be getting a 20lb for that one.
Sorry to keep bugging you but does something like this seem like it would work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CO2-Regulator-aquarium-Two-Gauge-Solenoid-Magnetic-Valve-CGA320-US-thread-110V-/272333167283?hash=item3f68525ab3:g:YSEAAOSwyLlXprmJ
https://www.amazon.com/Tank--Aluminum-Cylinder-CGA320-Valve/dp/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472673301&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=5+lb+co2+tank (actually found it for 5 bucks cheaper here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3L3Q6EPZRMXO8)
That gets me to ~$110 for full setup as I realized I have a power head I can feed the co2 into for dispersal.
Thanks for your responses.
I have a 5 lb. CO2 tank that sits on a small shelf in the back of my kegerator, with a regulator to dispense CO2 at 30PSI. The CO2 is attached to the corny keg using some 5/16" gas line and a ball-lock fitting.
The 40 ft. of beverage line is 3/16" (internal diameter) vinyl tubing that is coiled and wrapped with zipties to make sure it doesn't get tangled. Even though that sounds like a lot of line, there is only ~8 ounces of fluid in it when it is completely full. When the keg runs dry, I detach the CO2 and beverage lines, clean the keg, add about a liter of sanitized water (diluted starsan) to the keg, reattach the lines, and push the sanitized water through the beverage line. When the beverage line looks nice and clean (but still has the sanitized water in it), I can take it off and leave it in my kegerator until it's ready to use again. When I add another full keg, I just discard the first glass (which is half sanitized water and half sediment from the cold crash), and then I'm good to go.
I agree I linked an item from kind of a random website, but check out the Amazon value. Also check out What's Brewing Supply in Palatine, they filled mine for $12 or so.
Try amazon, this one says they can ship to finland. Shipping would be ~30 bucks though. Might buy the whole assembly in that case.
Ball Lock and hose
Coupler and valve assembly
As for getting the tank filled, I would go to your nearest bar or restaurant that uses co2 for their soda/beer and just see who their vendor is.
Ultra sonic cleaner on amazon is $30 shipped. Worth every penny to keep you vape gear clean! Bonus you can speed steep the odd bottle of juice with it.
Personally I use this ultrasonic cleaner. When I go to change coils I throw it all in there and put on a few cycles and it comes out surprisingly clean ( seriously, these things are like magic ) . When my driptip looks a little funky I just throw it in solo and it's good to go.
The only way I clean my chain is taking it off entirely and putting it into https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Eyeglasses/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466917068&amp;sr=8-3&amp;captcha_verified=1&amp;&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=zvnfhlebcd-20&amp;linkId=79dfc5fc5c178effaf6c8cc181f80787 one of these with whatever cleaner you like, I've used a citrus degrease and simple green, both seemed great. Nothing has done as good of a job.
Once clean and dry, I drop the chain https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Teflon-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B001C65JTI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41o1%2B61WiNL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL320_SR228%2C320_&amp;refRID=K1R5QAN4QBMDASZA7E1S&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=zvnfhlebcd-20&amp;linkId=234fed43a001a1ff9268cc524ceea17e into this and shake the chain around with the lid on tight. I then hang the chain over the container with the ends of the chain just over the opening of the bottle, a funnel can help here but I never needed it.
Chains come out super clean, extremely well lubricated, and I absolutely love this lube. The only thing I've liked better is paraffin wax in certain respects but much sooner reapplication is needed which can be annoying.
You can fit cassettes in these ultrasonic cleaners as well, does a great job.
I use an ultrasonic cleaner ($30 on amazon) with just plain water. A few seconds is all it takes. With a splash of simple green added, they're also very useful for cleaning & stripping models, cleaning airbrushes, etc.
If you don't want to spend the money, an old toothbrush and some water should do the trick.
I use a little one from amazon: http://smile.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-Instruments/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458135108&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
I use it with heated water and just a little bit of degreaser if needed. Sure it takes a few batches and a few runs to do everything, but it's only $30 and things come out super clean.
I actually got it from Vapexhale, but I think it was a limited run because it's been a while since I've seen it on the website. For an ultrasonic cleaner you can do something like this. I soak the nails and baskets in the ultrasonic cleaner filled with the highest concentration isopropal alcohol I can find. Usually soak them overnight or for a day, but it doesn't have to be that long, and I'll just turn on the ultrasonic cleaner here and there during that time.
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Then when I'm ready I'll take them out, brush them off good to remove the remaining stains, soak in clean iso for a bit, dry off, and then finally burn them off in the vape with it set to the highest temp (in case it needs to be said, always be careful with iso around heat, otherwise you might lose some hair or go boom).
I've worked for a retail jeweler for years in the past. Just walk into a jeweler and ask them to clean it, they will clean it free. When I was working there our main idea to keep people in the store to try and sell something was to offer to clean all the jewelry they had on and while they sit in the machine cleaning we would offer our help. But you dont have to be helped if you just want it cleaned.
Get on Amazon and buy some Gemoro cleaner. Or buy a machine, it shocks all the dirt and crud off here is a cheap one that will work, or give you an idea of what you want, if you want to do it at home. Just let it sit in machine for a minute to a couple mins depending on how dirty it is. But if you buy the machine please buy the cleaner chemicals to go with it so it will clean properly. You mix the chemicals with water based on the chemical brands instructions. Be sure to do some googling on what stones and metals can go into those machines. Stones like opal are precious, soft stones, that should not be placed in those machines. A lot of birthstones shouldnt be placed in those machines. They will discolor them and ruin them.
Edit: If its diamonds and real gold wear it whenever you want. The only thing that will degrade is the gold. But you can "re-dip" the gold whenever it starts to degrade or discolor. White gold will become more "matte" or not as shiny. When it comes to that just spend 25-40 bucks on dipping it. Yellow gold will start to turn into a white gold color, so dip it then. With yellow gold there is silver metals mixed into it so that's why itll turn white-ish after a while.
I hope this helps you. I recommended the machine incase you dont want to be hassled in the jewelry store, they're ruthless because sales are low 98 percent of the year. I recommend going to a local jeweler because you're helping your local community jeweler stay in business and they wont bombard you like retail will, like with credit card applications and all the bs. Good luck and congratulations!
Edit 2: Also, if its gold and diamonds, dont be so tough on yourself. Just was your hands in public with the ring on. Dont risk loosing it or forgetting it because you hear people say it messes the ring up or whatever cause of soap. It really wont mess it up like that. Just take it off when you put on lotion, sunscreen, etc.
There's this machine that uses ultrasonic vibrations and some solution to clean it. People use it for jewelry too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xQgPBbC2FV6JC
cant do much besides switch juice if you want them to gunk less. however, and amazing tool to clean them is an ultrasonic cleaner. just dry burn and rinse off. plop the entire deck into the cleaner with some soap and water for 5-6 mins, rinse well, wick, vape.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
they are also amazing at cleaning all your vape stuff as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-Instruments/dp/B00HZVYAVM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449262049&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
$30 ive never regret spending, run 3-4 cycles and it'll clear up any kind of dried up/caked in paint
Thanks! Looks like this is cheap enough.
I bought a jewelry cleaner machine like this....http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZVYAVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1456890117&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=jewelry+cleaner+machine
Best thing I found so far... I wish they made a tiny fuzzy brush to really get in the nooks
Could use a large test tube rack too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I13ZNIC/
I have seen these used before -
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I13ZNIC/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_24?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ACTB8CBED46SR
Ya actually $25/gal is hard to beat!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PSGWHIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7uMeAbDMRWF8H
Amazon Prime: Essential Depot VG, 1 quart, $12.97
Amazon Prime: Essential Depot VG, 1 gallon, $23.47
All the grams - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PSGWHIO?psc=1
If you're going to ingest it, you should be buying USP/food grade as well. Drank a some of this and a shitload of Pedialyte to rehydrate for a grappling tournament after the morning weight in, post cut.
1 tsp = ~6g
I buy my VG and PG from there for making DIY juices.
http://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-Gallon/dp/B00PSGWHIO/
Shipping with kill you. It is always expensive on VG.
If you have Amazon Prime, this helps greatly: https://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-Pharmaceutical/dp/B00PSGWHIO/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493876395&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=vg
Hmm some of those things aren't really necessary and there isn't enough VG/PG to last a while. I would recommend you piece together yourself everything you need and mix by weight. At first I tried mixing by volume but that was inaccurate and my mixes sucked. Here are most of the supplies you'll need.
VG
PG
Nic - I use Vape Clarity nic myself but their warehouse is being rebuilt after a fire so they're not operational until the end of the month. Here's an alternative I saw in the DIY subreddit.
Scale - Make sure to get the 500g one so that it measures out to the hundredths place.
I use www.bullcityvapor.com to get all the flavors I need in one place.
For bottles, I've just been rinsing out empty bottles my friends give me.
I don't bother with gloves but I use very diluted nic so that's not an issue for me (might want to use them if you have anything over 36mg/ml nic).
Here's the calculator I use and a tutorial.
I got everything separately.. Now I know I should have gotten my flavors and nicotine from wizard labs, but I ordered nicotine from nude nicotine and flavors from TFA's website. Also don't get a pack of flavors, just pick a couple of recipes you'd like and order those flavors. Here is a shitload of VG for sale on amazon. Grab some syringes, and glass dropper bottles while you are there and you're ready..
EDIT: You'll also need some bigger syringes or a graduated cylinder..
I would read the sub for a couple of days, make sure to look at the top posts and search some stuff you think of.. I really wish I would have done that before I just bought a bunch of shit.
Never used nor heard of it. Just get this.
Honestly, don't. Skip any starters as they are all generally over priced. Just buy things separately.
Amazon:
VG
Scale
30mL Bottle if you need some for concentrates, nicotine, VG, PG, etc. Or just to put your juice in.
Cheap Pipettes
Don't bother with strips. They usually don't have the range/precision you need. You can buy a digital meter for really cheap on Amazon if you really want one.
People talk down about these all the time but mine has stayed calibrated and functional since christmas. The secret apparently is storing it how you use it vertically
Jellas Pocket Size PH Meter / PH Tester / Mini Water Quality Tester for Household Drinking Water, Hydroponics, Aquariums, Swimming Pools, PH 0-14.0 Measuring Range, 0.1PH Resolution (Yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6B6.ybMED6HWD
You could always get this as well
General Hydroponics GH1514 General Hydroponics Ph Control Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tD6.yb5VT9XYB
I used this one last season. No problems with it. Cheap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
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Not sure you can calibrate w/o the solutions.
I use this. Mine came factory calibrated. Double-checked with their provided calibration solutions. Their customer support was very helpful since the calibration solutions do not come with instructions:
https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/
How much should I be spending on a PH pen are these cheap $20 Ones any good? [Like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496521064&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ph+pen)
Also should the PH Be at 5.8 In the runoff, or what I feed the plant
I hope I'm not too late! I'm looking at getting a ph meter to add another element to my brewing.
Does anyone have [this meter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bgV4ybF47N2CA)? I'm not really finding anything about the temps. it works at.
I ordered and have been using this Jellas pocket sized pH meter.
By pH down solution, do you mean something like this.
This is the one I am using. Its worked perfectly right out of the box so no complaints here. I hadn't thought of that but I'm going to go do it right now, thanks for the suggestion!
These are the models I went with, they've been working flawlessly so far:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBUH4RC
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VK4YY0
Definitely worth every penny, even if they do end up breaking sooner.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481968489&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=ph+meter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41w2JXOokIL&amp;ref=plSrch
So something like that would work to test dirty runoff as well? Thanks
They sell little handheld pH meters on amazon for $10-30. Used quite often for hydroponic work. This is the one I use and am happy with it. The plants haven't died! But there are other versions which have more resolution.
Like you, I needed a pen but didn't want to pay a cnote for one. I'm already using drops because I feel it's more accurate, but wanted a pen to compare to.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_lp_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=H7N0T6GZ8T1Q6HVCB7SJ
I went with Amazon because if it craps out or doesn't work properly, I have like 3 months to return it. I mean, theoretically you could do this with the bluelab one and return it before their window runs out, but that feels scummy. I figure if nothing else, I'm only out like 13 bucks.
not at all
Subtotal (5 items): $46.23
and you lget mor than you'll ever need.
you can optimize it by picking smaller pack but just to give you an idea what you are in for.
get some wide mouth bottles with a scale.
edit:
oh and get a funnel for the 30ml bottles!!!
to measure your flavours
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Measuring-E-Liquids-Adhesives/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485157215&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=syringe+set
bottle to carry your juice with you more than enough i bought ten and thats more than needed
https://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Plastic-Dropping-Bottles-30ml/dp/B00F098JJA/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485157332&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=30ml+bottles
for when you are to lazy to shake
https://www.amazon.com/MatchaDNA-Handheld-Milk-Frother-Silver/dp/B018TCWL8O/ref=sr_1_4?s=kitchen&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485157363&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=milk+foamer
storrage for your juices
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Mouth-Experiment-Bottle-Capacity/dp/B016CLEU1U/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485157538&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=bottles+100ml
storage for you base
https://www.amazon.com/Lautechco-1000ml-Plastic-Experiment-Reagent/dp/B01MEGYZGA/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485158603&amp;sr=8-20&amp;keywords=1000ml+wide+mouth
blunt tip needles are cheap and safer.
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Liquids-cigs-juice/dp/B01CFJ51X4?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_13895365011
edit: c & p fail
Yes. Don't mix it with any other juice.
This is what I did with my vape oil.
I got this from Max vapor nail. Refillable cartridge:
https://maxvapornail.com/collections/featured-products/products/glass-cartridge-with-ceramic-core-and-preheater-coil
You can use one of these pens right here for $24 with a charger:
https://o2vape.com/product/oil-vaporizer-battery-white/
I bought syringe from Amazon to use to fill the cartridge:
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Measuring-E-Liquids-Adhesives/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=pd_sbs_328_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ZK0EQ5Z4GBTKGNMP9ZWF
Hope this helps you. Here is the review I did on vaping using a refillable cartridge.
https://www.cbdreviews.net/max-vapor-nail-glass-cartridge-with-ceramic-core-preheater-coil/
After reading thru this site, here is my shopping list:
Going for a 70pg/30vg blend, just need to track down a good e-juice calculator from the sidebar.
In that case, the syringe is pretty handy to have. I got this variety pack from Amazon < link > so I could try different sizes, and the 1ml (smallest one) ended up working the best for me to load the B-coil.
Dont have a link to the individual one i have because i picked it up at my local brick and mortar for about 3-4$. But THIS kit looks like more than enough for ~9$ on amazon. If you poke around a bit more im sure you could find an individual one.
Maybe a E-cig store. amazon hopefully linking isn’t against the rules.
BSTEAN Syringe Blunt Tip Needle... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
this is what i bought brother
You can also drill a tiny hole to the middle of the crack and use a blunt tip syringe (like the ones for shots but not sharp) to apply glue or epoxy.
Then remove the bolt in the joint and cut a spline slot with a circular saw in the direction in which the forces occur. Glue in a hardwood spline. replace bolt.
Amazon has pretty cheap stir plates that would probably cost less than a fan/magnet/speed control/box combo. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072K24X5P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6ieJDbQC99WWZ
Here you go
Using chocolate almond milk and a magnetic stirrer
It makes the Kratom sooooo creamy and not chalky. Mixes perfectly. So much better than water or anything else.
A cheap $25 dollar stir plate. Being able to reliably get 3x the pitch rate from a set and forget device is worth it to me. It pays for itself in 2-3 brews!
Amazon link for those who might be interested: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072K24X5P
I bought a cheap one from Amazon. This one.
There are test kits you can buy. For example:
http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ
Make sure you find one that tests for the things that concern you. There are also labs that you can mail water to but I didn't quickly find a link.
one product. https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468425084&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=lead+testing+strips
In a previous water related thread, someone posted this one
Ah. Test the water?
e: https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/
Hmm, I'd be shocked if one of us discovered a substance we could get at home that would create an as-of-yet-undiscovered precipitation reaction that would precipitate chloramine out of water! The reaction with citric acid you mentioned, is another one I now remember I've heard. All the points you make are right on, so if you figure something out, let us know! BUT the first step in my mind is finding a way to verify any potential results, so we're back to a cost effective way of measuring chloramine levels in a given water sample.
The cheap test strips for drinking water and aquariums seem to only test for chlorine (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBMAVQ/)($13), and the expensive ones seem to indicate they CAN be calibrated to check for chloramine (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4TFU1I/) ($1,099). This seems made specifically to test for chloramine, but it's unavailable (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3EF7ZY/).
I'll bet small quantities of citric acid are fine, and small amount of humic acids are definitely beneficial (humic acid is naturally occurring in compost and is great for soil). How much is too much, idk, since I don't add any directly/intentionally.
Here's a simple and cheap one: http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/
Here's a more expensive and more complete one: http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Premier-173006-All--Water/dp/B002XISS4C/
Here.
You may want to test for lead in
Paint
and Tap Water
How bad are these? http://amzn.com/B000FBMAVQ
A life changer: anhydrous alcohol. Because it’s 99.9% alcohol, it evaporates essentially on contact when compared with ISO you might have used. I clean flat planes to be joined with a dab on a paper towel, then a microfiber cloth, then a quick jet of air. That might sound like a lot, but it’s genuinely less than 20 seconds per joint in cleaning time.
I use acetone on mine.
You can try some anhydrous IPA if you want to try something a bit less harsh.
Try to avoid acetone used for cosmetics, they tend to have things like perfumes in them that will only make your life sad.
Here are links to the fluids I like to use for cleaning:
IPA http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
Acetone http://www.amazon.com/SUNNYSIDE-CORPORATION-84032-1-Quart-Acetone/dp/B000C02AW4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394475871&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=acetone
Particularly on a hot print bed, make sure you are in a very well ventilated area during use.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
alcohol will readily evaporate. Once the alcohol has "extracted" (pulled all the good shit) out of the plant matter, just let it sit out for a day or so. Applying heat will accelerate this process. it will evaporate and leave a gooey resin on your plate (or Pyrex dish). scrape (razor blade) and smoke. your done. Aside from golden grain you can also use this. Just don't drink it.
It could be "bad" ipa. Denatured ipa is not good for print bed cleaning. ( a bit on the subject https://sciencing.com/denatured-alcohol-vs-isopropyl-alcohol-5519636.html)
It is probably denatured with a oil based chemical , or has a weird additive, even a residue in the plastic bottle before filling at the factory.... Try another brand and get yourself some 99% ipa MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/
I'm personally curious about using DI water(deionized water) to clean instead of 99% ipa, or maybe a 50/50 mix. We use it at work on the industrial printers and it works really good.
This should work. It's not reagent grade, but I don't think the .09% difference will make a difference in a non-lab setting. The introduced impurities from the q-tip would make it a moot point anyway.
No problem! This is what I use, FYI: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491506569&amp;sr=8-22&amp;keywords=isopropyl+alcohol+99
You could probably find it cheaper.
I get this at my local electronics supply store.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-824-1L-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=sxin_4_af-pna-1_62923c0178d6e9db158fae689c2f6f4db5144ae2?keywords=99%25+isopropyl+alcohol&pd_rd_i=B005DNQX3C&pd_rd_r=ce7be55f-216b-445b-bbc0-57b6baa56402&pd_rd_w=JFyRx&pd_rd_wg=peUrn&pf_rd_p=3892bc23-5fa8-4a18-8855-22c23bd2e202&pf_rd_r=DJRGCQQGH1Y2PMVP7JP8&qid=1573927863
Everclear will bring through more plant matter because it is only 95% alcohol (or 76% if your state doesnt allow the real stuff). I would highly recommend getting 99% iso from amazon. Dont listen to anyone who says the flavor isnt as good with iso. If you use 99.9%, it all evaporates anyway.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C
If you use everclear, your oil will be an undesireable shade of green due to bringing through the water soluble parts of the plant
Got mine from Amazon, there's also a bigger bottle on that page that's cheaper, but no sprayer on it.
UK Amazon links
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004SPJP5O/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_d0_g328_i1_sh
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005DNQX3C/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_g328_i2_sh
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-824-1L-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C
It looks like it was in a flood or fire. Odds are the person turned it on and fried it. Your best bet is to save the cpu, the gpus by stripping them down. The motherboard is cheap to get, the ram is probably indestructible... forget the psu exists. You need to really clean the parts well to get the contaminants off. Head to walmart and get gallon jugs of distilled water, and just clean it really really well.
Do you have access to a large ultrasonic cleaner? Fill it with isopropyl and turn it on outside (so there's no fire and explosion risk).
After you use the alcohol to drive the water out, I would clean the gpus twice as the ram is bga, and get a can of pcb contact cleaner and blast it with that when totally done.
I'm pretty sure you can salvage the gpus if the caps are solid caps.
Keep us posted, this looks like fun.
MG Chemicals 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner, Clear , 945 mL (1 US Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_2aZUDbPD21WNS
I cant find the youtube video I watched to fix my controllers.. it seems to be removed. But a few drops of this stuff (safe to use on electronics - it dries very fast) into the base of the joystick. You have to lift the rubber flap with a toothpick while you apply a few drops. Then just swirl the joypad clockwise and counterclockwise for 30 seconds to a minute. I have fixed all 3 of my controllers with drifts using this method.
Then what's this?
And this?
This cleans it in a flash along with coarse sea salt
Enabling the 7x7 mode on my MK3 gave me such good bed adhesion that I don't need to use glue stick anymore. Now I just spray the bed with a some 99% alcohol and then print. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNQX3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hmm. Your reply isn't showing up in my app for some reason, but I get it from a local warehouse. They get it in huge volume, I get this size bottle (same brand) for $14 CAD. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005DNQX3C/
Edit: it's not always MG, sometimes it's a different brand but I don't recall the name. I use MG for flux and solder too so I remember the brand.
Hmm. okay. I saw a Youtube video that recommended this product, but that was for making an RSO wax/oil consistency, so maybe he used it because all the alcohol is evaporated off..
They make them pretty small.
That was just a quick google search. Dig around for size and price. You can get a bottle of PG solution locally for usually around $6-$8 for an 8oz to get you started. I'll see if I can find you a sale online....
The tubes work fine, too, but are not the same thing and do not use PG.
EDIT: The cheapest way to get PG solution is to make it yourself. Just order yourself some PG and mix it in a 1 to 1 ration with distilled water. Accuracy isn't hugely important, but should be within 10%. This will make 2 pints and last you a very long time.
This product is the same as Ploom's mouthpiece lubricant, and it's much cheaper. All they use is food-grade propylene glycol.
I'm assuming you have a gemini-20 or something similar. Accuracy is about +/- 3mg with larger amounts. I'd suggest going for around 1mg/ml solution as this will be easy to measure and if you are mixing into 100ml+ the inaccuracy won't matter at all. You can find PG on amazon, you can also find it on some online vape shops because it's one of the main base ingredients in eliquid. Just get yourself a beaker to measure it out and a blunt tip syringe to measure your doses.
The solid red light you are having is the temperature-light issue. Make sure you clean it regularly, and leave it upside down (oven at the bottom) so that the piece stays as clean as possible.
I will buy some mouthpiece lubricant (or just Propylene Glycol (Amazon Link)) to lubricate the mouth piece connection part thoroughly. You don't need a lot, but make sure it is lubed up in the connection part. It always solves my temp-light issues.
Make sure to checkout the wiki in this subreddit on how to clean the pax.
Make sure your searching for propylene glycol here is a link Propylene Glycol 1 Quart - USP - KOSHER - PURE and here is some pg flavors on amazon that you may also consider there cheaper from their main site though. [here](https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_10?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=one+on+one+flavors&amp;sprefix=One+on+one%2Caps%2C159&amp;crid=34XZSVFR8VU73(
You can. I prefer to buy it off Amazon though TBH.
I buy Essential Depot Vegetable Glycerin And Propylene Glcyol
No reason I just like to stick with one company.
Heres The DIY Clone list. The all loved Nana Cream is on there and Im vaping it now and its wonderful. I think enough flavoring to make like 120ml was $10???? Cant remember off the top of my head.
Some comments:
2 You are looking for an Ego Threaded Beauty Ring.
3 You can also buy MUCH better tanks like an Evod for cheap and they have replaceable coils so they are worth the investment. I personally have had better luck with something like a protank or BDC, but anything with replaceable coils will be a big step forward. Also the better build construction means less leaking.
4 PEG-400 is not really an ideal base for any ejuice. It has a bad taste and does not carry flavors very well. You would have much better luck using Vegetable Glycerin or Propylene Glycol.
Propylene Glycol (kosher food grade) is a much much more sensible solution to use for volumetric dosing.
Propylene Glycol - USP - Kosher - Food Grade - USP - Kosher - 36 oz net Weight in a 1 Quart Safety Sealed HDPE Container with resealable Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_w-AGDbHA5WZ71
I get my pg & vg from amazon. great prices. Just mix it in the ratios you want & your good to go. I vape unflavored juice with nicotine because I prefer it, it seems like a lighter less complicated vape than with flavors. Sometimes when I am bored I will put in some menthol for a change
http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-Propylene-Glycol-Quart/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416509782&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=propylene+glycol
http://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-43/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=pd_sim_indust_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0HC83A0EQFYJHWVJG8HQ
I would get VG and PG from Amazon. It's cheap as dirt and it comes with free shipping with Amazon Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-43/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415344197&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=vegetable+glycerine
http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-PROPYLENE-GLYCOL-QUART-Propylene-Glycol/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=pd_sim_hpc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1BJB98Z2KRR4Q4TF48KN
This is the PG I buy personally, never had an issue with it, not sure about any b&ms though that would sell it. https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-Propylene-Glycol-Quart/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480096297&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=propelyn+glycol
EDIT: You might be able to find PG at a drug store, I forget the exact purpose of it in medical use but if I remember correctly some drug stores will carry PG.
mixing any podwer consist of a carrier and the powder.
DO you have a a fine mg accurate scale. Many of the cheaper scaled aren't accurate until 6 mg or more
Create a sheet with your desired concentration. 100mgs Etiz to 200ML of https://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Quart-KOSHER-PURE/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503001430&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=propylene+glycol
equals 1CC equals 2mg of etiz. I advise you not to make strong blends and frankly, you should combine ingredients and shake daily for about three days and they should be blended. I wouldnt worry about heating unless you're jonesing.
Depends on the PG/VG ratio. Seems most "high end" e-liquid don't put this on the label. It looks like they use 30/70 mix, after a quick google search, which might be a little too thick for your tanks. You could always thin it out by adding some PG, but you would be reducing flavor slightly and lowering the nicotine.
If you prefer a 50/50 blend, you could do that too. I bought a quart of VG on amazon for ~$12.
VG on Amazon / PG on Amazon
Or order from a place like Nude Nicotine, pre-mixed (1L of 50/50 is $14)
Here is what I get.
Here is the PG
I get my flavours from wizardlabs
LOL SORRY! I'm a smartass by nature, couldn't resist. Amazon is an excellent source for PG, relatively cheap for a quart that should last a while. I'm sure what you bought is fine being USP, I just prefer products that are marketed for homo sapiens :-)This is what I ordered.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F5OJG6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
As others have said, food grade propylene glysol. I bought this for ~$15, looks like it's even cheaper now.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F5OJG6
Even better. $2.83
http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
It is simpler than it looks,
ehpro kayfun lite plus clone base with M-tank, then a standard center steel section coupled to a second M-tank, with the top cap screwed on there. The chimney is extended using a repurposed pipette thing like these HERE Drip tip is a cute boy from 101vapes
It is filled with 80% Indigo RiffRaff, 20% Cola Freeze from EJC - a fruity cool type of ADV, but maybe I should fill it with some Absolute Pin, just to see how long it would take to finish one tank... :p
Molecular Gastronomy Spherirication is really fun and sciency. I made little balsamic vinegar spears when I did it for a project but you can do it with fruit juice and then put them on ice cream. They are kinda like boba but much smaller. I used these pipettes to make the spheres (if you decide to do this, I still have a bunch and totally willing to send you some if you would like) It was pretty fun and I'm an adult. Also I have a simpler recipe but mine is specifically for vinegar...not sure if that matters...
These brain ice cube trays would make ice or you could make mini brain jello jigglers.
Buy vinegar, bicarb, food colouring and pipettes. Put the bicarb in a tray, and mix the vinegar with food colouring in cups. Let the kids use the pipettes to drop vinegar into the bicarb and watch it fizz and bubble!
I do this with my class all the time, and they love it. The colouring just makes it extra fun. Of course, you can also just put the vinegar in a cup or bottle and drop the bicarb in... fwoosh! Explosion!
For future reference, these are super helpful for tanks that have to be drained in order to access the coils.
to make it into a concentrate, you have to run a solvent over it. the easiest way for you might be to soak/rinse dry herb in some high strength everclear, if possible. but it's not a quick process to let it dry off and condense. i feel bad for everyone that doesnt have access to a decent supply chain :/.
On my phone... So my links aren't fancy...
Here's $1.99 http://www.amazon.com/Goodnight-Little-Monster-ebook/dp/B007TXVA7S/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=6ATZZU7BRZN1&amp;coliid=I1ELXYZB7KGWPZ
Here's $3.99 http://www.amazon.com/Board-Carlos-Hangover-funny-sticker/dp/B009S9RURU/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=6ATZZU7BRZN1&amp;coliid=I2FRWZ7N9XS5YG
Here's $5.99 http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=6ATZZU7BRZN1&amp;coliid=I2Q8HSKL0UL9Y2
And here's $7.96 http://www.amazon.com/Safari-Life-Cycle-Honey-Model/dp/B004JDJ9S8/ref=wl_it_dp_v_S_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=6ATZZU7BRZN1&amp;coliid=I2T8LATGUTINMX
Don't think it's close enough to win... But I'm pretty close!
4 Oz bottles for nic, pg, and vg. I find these are perfect for control pouring.
Right now I use disposable pipettes for my flavors... I just started so I only have small 8 ml drams.
I just throw them away... But I have thought about cleaning them out with a squirt of water and reusing. I feel bad when I use 1 pipette for like 0.5 g of flavor.
I'm hoping I can move up to larger bottles and use regular bottle droppers or something.
If you can get the rest of the look maybe doing a "layered" injection of a liquid in to the background would work. Use a pipette to slowly place some liquid down and then another to do the eye. Good luck!
http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0
Hm, yeah, looks like the one on the ca version is a bit more expensive than in the US.
My solution to this problem:
http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B005IQTSE0/ref=lp_318122011_1_1?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426102739&amp;sr=1-1
I ordered a bunch of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQTSE0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467598028&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=3ml+pipette
I just cut the tips off if I'm using meatier foods, they come in handy for other stuff too and are cheap!
get a set of these on amazon. They are perfect for measurring paints. Small and disposable, so no need to try to clean paint out of them, they will last a while. If i need to measure paints, I just use 2 droppers and go either drop by drop, or using the little markers along the sides.
What are you using as a dropper? I use 3ml pipettes after trying a few other things and they are perfect for it. They have a large enough hole and suction power to pull up thick, goopy oils and precisely and easily fill a gel cap.
awesome!
figured i'd check for similar stuff on amazon and found this: [Karter Scientific 208U2 Plastic Test Tube Rack for 15/17mm Tubes, Holds 50, Detachable] (http://www.amazon.com/Karter-Scientific-208U2-Plastic-Detachable/dp/B005Z4QWIK/)
from my measurements the WL vials are 17mm so should work great
http://www.amazon.com/Karter-Scientific-208U2-Plastic-Detachable/dp/B005Z4QWIK/ref=sr_1_2/191-6961186-0494741?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398464400&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=test+tubes+racks
6 bucks
Not to take biz away from a cool fountain pen company but this looks an awfully lot like a Karter Scientific 15/17mm tes tube rack. You can grab one for $6 from Amazon if cash is tight.
Thanks! Wish I would’ve straightened the labels out more for optimal satisfaction! Lol.
Karter Scientific 208U2 Plastic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Z4QWIK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I started using these recently and love them to keep all the little 8ml vials organized.
Sorry for the mobile link, I'm on my phone.
Karter Scientific 208U2 Plastic Test Tube Rack for 15/17mm Tubes, Holds 50, Detachable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Z4QWIK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_iTanub1TME7EZ
There have been different suggestions for off-the-shelf accessories as well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Z4QWIK/
Goulet sells a similar, if not identical one.
I fill with a syringe unless I am using my lamy 2000. Goulet pens actually sells an ink syringe and test tube rack but I got this one from amazon.
http://amzn.com/B005Z4QWIK
I have http://amzn.com/B005Z4QWIK (the third rack in your first set of links) and it works really well for the small 8ml glass vials. It wouldn't fit anything much larger, though.
Alternatively, don't be the kind of person who thinks this is a wild invention by a price-gouging company and pay a fraction of the amount:
http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Screw-Caps-Bottle-28mm/dp/B0064ODVLG/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395071756&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pet+bottle+cap
You can also buy PET bottlecaps at any homebrew shop.
bottled water + homebrew bottle caps, you can put them on and they're unbroken after you replace all the water with vodka.
This is how I'll go on my next cruise.
You can buy fresh lids for water bottles on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Screw-Caps-Bottle-28mm/dp/B0064ODVLG
When you screw them on, they seal and the ring breaks when you unscrew the lid.
Not only are they useful for faking miracles, but for smuggling booze into festivals that only allow bottled water. Also for poisoning idiot coworkers who try to steal your bottles of water from the office fridge.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0064ODVLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527201930&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=plastic+bottle+caps+for+soda+bottles&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31Y891c53eL&amp;ref=plSrch
It's difficult to get the excess resin off of areas that have support. The surface tension causes it to pool.
I recommend getting an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner. You can find them on amazon for around $20 USD. Fill the cleaner with isopropyl alcohol and let it vibrate for a few minutes. It will solve the problem.
Alternatively, you can try and scrub out the areas with a toothbrush, but I find that it takes to long and the results aren't as good as the ultrasonic cleaner.
EDIT: I just checked and they are actually closer to $40. I have this one and it works great.
mine was $40 on amazon and it's nice for cleaning jewelry too haha
I went with a more expensive model then some others.
MAGNASONIC Professional... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I can’t really tell, but I haven’t worked with jewelry. Someone else here might be able to. Silver? Pewter? Zinc?
You could try cleaning solution or an ultrasonic cleaner. Many jewelry stores have those machines if you’d like to have someone else do it. If you use a solution, test a spot on the back first to make sure there won’t be a reaction.
I'd never heard of anyone doing it either. I just got curious about ways to clean the foils better and started experimenting. I just use soap / water in the solution and run it for about 10 minutes.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K
I've considered ultrasonic cleaners. Right now, I just use scalding hot water, then a vodka bath, then I dry them on a paper towel in front of an air purifier.
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20oz (600ml) seems to be the standard for personal use ultrasonic cleaners. Anything larger than that is well over $100.
These are the two most popular ones on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510610533&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/Famili-FM8000WW-Ultrasonic-Polishing-Eyeglasses/dp/B0142G8ONC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510610511&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Eyeglasses, Rings, Coins (MGUC500) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sXsWAbBGNX06W
This is the one I have. It's worked very well for me.
I'm just pasting out of the amazon app so if there's some kind of affiliate link (I'm not getting paid) it's unintentional
MAGNASONIC Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry and Eyeglass Cleaner With Digital Timer MGUC500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bcfgzb5ZX226C
Sure, I bought this one, but there are a bunch that are all really similar so I'm not sure it matters too much...good luck!
This is the one I use and I’m very happy with it.
Magnasonic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zYKYCbM3XWDYV
It does pretty well and was inexpensive. Doesn’t do all the work tho. Still have to rinse, wipe out the cup, and disassemble, but spares a lot of work I think.
I have one and I would recommend it to anybody, but it is not a requirement by any means. I used to use rubbing alcohol, Q-tips, water, and time to clean my tanks, and it worked extremelt well.
With the ultrasonic I can get 5 tanks/RDAs clean in under 10 minutes. I run hot water, chuck the gear into the cleaner with the water, run it for 3 minutes, then use my air compressor to blow any excess water away. Honestly takes longer to reassemble everything than the cleaning takes.
Still, unless you're really anal about cleaning, or have a crapton of gear that needs cleaning often, you do not need one.
Just picked up this on amazon
Did some research and they all seem very much alike, so I decided to just spend $10 above the avg price for the one with the most/best reviews. Let’s see how it goes this weekend!
Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Eyeglasses, Rings, Coins (MGUC500)
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xH6NDb4S3Y7Z4
If you want stuff really clean or buy atomizers frequently (I have a problem) I also highly recommend an ultrasonic cleaner. They're not expensive and are both less work and more effective than hand cleaning. I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Instruments-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450331405&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
It's the only way I've been able to actually get old juice out of tanks you can't take apart like the Triton V1.
For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.
I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.
For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.
There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.
A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.
I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.
Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!
Does anyone use one of these cheaper, jewelery cleaners?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=2KOLDZ0QIYSD3&amp;coliid=I6YQ0WZ13ED0S
I would absolutely recommend washing any new attys before use. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, that is one of the best ways. If you do not, you can put it in a dish of hot soapy water, making sure to take it apart, and letting it soak for a few. You can then rinse and put in some vodka if you so choose, just make sure that if you do that you rinse really really well.
If you are interested in a reasonably price ultrasonic cleaner, heres one that Ive seen pop up a couple times here.
http://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Instruments-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449342955&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
They're used to clean jewelry.
Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Eyeglasses, Rings, Coins (MGUC500) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R0nVCbT8Q0YDY
I did not go this fancy but here's one on amazon. I wish I had taken "before" photos to show you, but it looks brand new.
http://smile.amazon.com/Magnasonic-MGUC500-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglass/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=pd_rhf_gw_s_cp_2_1XNZ?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=08AGF0YNJ93YQQR5DEF3
Is this what you mean by ultrasonic cleaner ? https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527038588&sr=8-3&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
My experience with consumer ultrasonic cleaners has been great. If you fill the chamber with water, but use a separate container to hold iso & your gear, you won't have to worry about cleaning.
I use this little fella https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A3OI2CVBA9DB25&psc=1
[Sorry hyperlink isn't working] which was $30 when I bought it.
That and a shallow tupperware. Any cheap ultrasonic with reviews, really, just get the dimensions of the chamber and make sure you can find a suitable container. I remember reading about an immersible ultrasonic transducer, like just drop the end in a bucket and it vibrates the water, but couldn't find anything. Just industrial ones.
This is the one I use. I like it very much!
no problem! the drop holy pandas are very inconsistently lubed. some have very little if any and others people have reported that theirs were overlubed, but general consensus was that no batch of received switches had been lubed consistently and that one switch from a batch could not be held to be lubed equivalently to another. mine seems to be on drier side and some were indeed more lubed than others. I just decided to relube everything.
this ultrasonic cleaner did the job for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
just add a little bit of dish detergent or dawn and stir the watter a bit so it somewhat mixes, not bubble over XD, before you put the switch parts in for cleaning. it runs for 480 seconds max per time you turn it on. meaninng roughly 8 minutess. I would run it twice at 8 minutes and then just gently use tap water to rinse them slightly. From there, i would just let them dry.
Back in the day we'd all use to just boil the hell out of our tanks and drip tips and but it was rare to see anything that wasn't stainless steel.
Now I use this this ultrasonic cleaner that's popular on this sub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q2M17K/
First with a drop of dish soap, then you can lift the basket out and rinse it and dump the water and do one more washing. I gotta say the hype was real and it'll get inside every nook and cranny. Just be careful though because it has some power and a lot of the time grub screws will come out and hard to spot those suckers when they're nice and clean now too.
Something like this is a must for every vapor too: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10025488/5648100-authentic-clrane-cleaning-brushes-for-e-cigarette - I'm sure Amazon has something similar and just figure out the conversion to Metric.
Good to know. To clarify, she currently uses these two products - should we stop using them? What if there's no solder joints, would your opinion change? Magnasonic Cleaner & Jewelry Concentrate cleaner
On the topic of pH, I've had a few burning questions for a while. Wasn't sure to make a new post on this or stick it here.
I don't grow outside but I don't think you need to add more nutes to your soil. Not if you are using a quality soil like Ocean Forest.
Honestly, it looks like splash burn to me.
http://www.thctalk.com/cannabis-forum/showthread.php?105935-Nute-burn
But I would check your run off water pH. With soil, you could probably get away with those little paper tester strips they use for pools. Super cheap and available at any pool supply or hardware shop.
https://www.amazon.com/Packs-Paper-Litmus-Strips-Tester/dp/B008IBOG7G
It sounds like the cleanser just didn't agree with you, you can certainly stop using it. In the future, it's best to patch test new products in one area to determine if they won't break you out and you aren't sensitive or allergic to something in it.
If you're worried about the pH of your handmade soap, pH test strips are super cheap, easy, and frankly fun to play with. You can find out if you even need to worry about your cleanser before trying to find a new one you like!
Tomatoes should be ok for the water-bath, you can do a litmus test to make sure.
You can also reuse Star San. Get some litmus strips and test.
> It's an acidic cleaner. Once the pH rises above 3, it should be replaced. Color or cloudiness is not an appropriate indicator of potency. (per Five Star Chemicals - makers of StarSan)
Edit: cheap from Amazon here.
THESE are cheaper and more durable/waterproof. A little bit of spray paint or camo tape and it blends in just as well as the other mentioned containers. In my area we have a lot of waterways and these make GREAT paddle caches.
http://www.amazon.com/Soda-Bottle-Preforms-Caps-30/dp/B008MB1QNY
This one is good
get on my level
Or just buy soda caps and put a new one on...http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Screw-Caps-Bottle-28mm/dp/B0064ODVLG
Yes, but I only need something cheap to do OCCASIONAL water damage.
What's a good fluid to use with it? Just ordered this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZVYAVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Think it's half decent for $30??
you could buy one from amazon for cheaper
Ask away brother.
Don't let people like /u/abdada discourage you from asking questions. Just because the answers are out there doesn't mean that we shouldn't have conversations about them. The world is an ever-changing place, and a sidebar on an internet forum is not the repository for all of the answers in the universe.
And to answer your question, I actually purchased my PG and VG from Amazon. Probably not the best source, but I have no complaints about the quality or price. Essenial Depot is the brand name.