(Part 2) Best lab & scientific products according to redditors

Amazon

You can also buy desiccant in bulk and that’s literally its entire purpose. To absorb moisture.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qd0tDb54HBNDZ

My body type is Erlenmeyer flask and let me tell you, it is extremely difficult to find clothes that fit when you have size 15 feet, huge cankles, and size 20AAAA boobs. So glad wide leg pants are coming back in because they’re perfect for my inverted ice cream cone legs 😍

Any time I work on cars, have to move them, or do interior work, I wear gloves. I go through a box of Raven every 2 weeks or so.

http://www.amazon.com/SAS-Safety-66518-Powder-Free-Disposable/dp/B002XXO60M are the best I've come across. I lay down PigMat on the seat if I have to sit, same for floor boards.

I work on quite a few very high end cars, most over 100k. I don't have the luxury of not cleaning everything with a toothrbush.

Please please please use the correct tips. Throw that thing in a sharps container somewhere and order these instead

Edit: Also for the love of god, everyone use a sharps container. Your trash guy doesn't need that struggle.

In terms of water absorption from the air, most cat litter is surprisingly ineffective. I use these indicating reusable silica beads from amazon to keep my 3d printer filament dry. Works wonderfully and when it changes color you just pop it in the oven for a few hours and they're ready to go again.

PTC taste test strips. One like this: http://www.amazon.com/PTC-TASTE-PAPER-VIAL-STRIPS/dp/B001D7FF5E

It's not a genome test, it's a PTC test. A quick google search gave me this Though that's a way larger quantity than you'd want. You might be able to get one from free from any highschool biology department I think they're pretty popular in labs.

Mine was under 5 and over 4 and it's a brand new bottle. This happened to me before, where new products, but old bottles of products were not testing right. I had bought new test strips. So I got a different brand of test strips and re-tested everything a week later and the results came out right. .My experience is that not all test strips are equal.

Husband is a chemE. said test strips are not definative because of light and heat and external influences. Never mind manufacturers. He recommends the brand PH Hydrion. Of course, he hasn't worked in a lab in decades. But he remembered everyone using them in the lab. He also said he never used test strips, he used PH meters.

Amazon seems to have some

The substance used for these test strips is indeed Phenylthiocarbamide (PTC), which is the substance mentioned in the article as being similar to the bitter compound in Brussels sprouts.

Bitter Test Strips:
http://www.amazon.com/PTC-TASTE-PAPER-VIAL-STRIPS/dp/B001D7FF5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341172595&sr=8-1&keywords=bitter+test+strips

I usually use a 1L or 2L [Erlenmeyer flask] (https://www.amazon.com/PYREX-Narrow-Mouth-Erlenmeyer-Flasks/dp/B004XR5W5E/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1496999961&sr=1-2&keywords=erlenmeyer+flask+2l)

Have to use an Erlenmeyer Flask, much better distance.

I’d say tents and hard gear would be ok. Fold or hang them loosely. Make sure they are totally dry before storing. Sleeping bag and clothing should stay inside.

Get some of this for inside, and and if you seal the outdoor storage door, the outside as well.

5 Pounds of Industry Standard 3-5 mm Large Blue Beaded Indicating Silica Gel Desiccants and Dehumidifier, Air-Tight Can for Storage - RECHARGEABLE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a9bYAb0CZXS54

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-PTC-Paper-Strips-Vial/dp/B001D7FF5E

Buy this. If you put it in your mouth and it tastes bitter straight away your a "super taster"

> is there any way to make edibles that i basically cant mess up?

So you know how to make cannabutter?

Buy these: https://www.amazon.com/Empty-Gelatin-Capsules-Size-1000/dp/B000ACUJRW?th=1

Fill with a syringe: https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Glass-Medicine-Dropper-Calibrated/dp/B0071S5Y46/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dropper&qid=1557525098&s=hpc&sr=1-3&th=1

Swallow pills with drink of choice.
Keep in fridge because you used butter. If you ever branch out to Tincture or Coconut oil, you can keep at room temp.

Amazon

Honestly, I can't. About 5 years ago I just searched Amazon for the best one (by review) under $30 and bought it (not handy at the moment or I'd get the brand) but it has performed flawlessly, though I don't use it daily or anything. This one looks very, very close, the interior basket looks identical. You could always return if it doesn't seem to perform the way you expect.

I can type up what I did really quickly.

1. Ensure your dropper bottle is clean, the top is off, and this is over a stable surface. Also ensure the surface is easily cleaned if there is a spill. I have a glass desk I use as my hobby station, yet for those who don't do what you feel you need to.
   
   
2. Use a funnel so that you can pour out and capture as much paint as possible.
   
   
3. Open up the GW paint and add in some medium to thin it as much as you feel you need to. I do this to get it the consistency that Duncan has and then pour it out into the bottle.
   
   
4. Once the paint has been transferred put the GW container to the side, remove the funnel, cap and close the dropper bottle, and you are done! If you want to remember what kind of paint it was just peel off the GW paint label and put it on the outside of the dropper bottle.
   
   Hope this helps anyone who is interested in using dropper bottles.

I work in a shop where sheet metal is readily available, and scrap is ok to use for whatever we want.

A 120v muffin fan came into my possession by means I do not remember. I glued a neodymium magnet from a dead hard drive to the fan, and built an enclosure to which I mounted the fan, and a 120v dimmer switch to control the speed of said fan.

I then purchased stir bars, to stir the starter in a 2 liter Erlenmeyer flask.

I bought a dimmer switch at Home Depot, and I get an amazing turbination in my starters.


The result is an inexpensive alternative to commercially available stir plates.

Paid $45.00 for the flask, $7.00 for the switch, maybe $9.00 for the stir bars, but the satisfaction of seeing the thing work, and work well, was so validating and fun to do!

Homebrew Materials:

Vacuum Pump Oil

Vacuum Tubing

1/4" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male Hose Fitting

1/4" Male x 1/4" Female NPT Extension Hose

Vacuum Pump

Filters

Spatulas

Magnetic Stir Bar

Digital Hotplate with Magnetic Stirrer

Nitrile Gloves (Better than Latex)

Empty Capsules (Buy Separated unless you hate your life)

Capsule Machine (If you value your sanity, buy more than a 100... I hated my life doing this)

Mohr Pipets

Pipette 10ml

Mortar and Pestle (If you're doing orals, get this... Otherwise, you're playing Russian Roulette with your doses and liver)

Funnel (For pouring into small places)

Alconox (For clean your shit)

Temperature Gun (How hot is my shit?)

Graduated Cylinder (If you measure with beakers, you're a fucking idiot... And you should consider Volumetric Flasks)

Beaker Set

1 Liter Beaker (Because brewing en'masse is better)

Scale (I have a 2kg one, too)

Calibration Weight Set

Calibration Weight 100g (Because you need two for the scale linked)

Vacuum Regulator (Unless you want to filter 9001 times due to broken shit)

Oil (Any USP grade, filtered or unfitlered)

BB

BA

Butyl Stoppers

Flip Top Seals

Crimper

Vials (Unsealed)

Autoclave (Cheaper than an oven, why are you using an oven?!)

Weight Boats (Buy a million of these. They're cheap and useful)

Did I miss something? Probably. Yes.

Oscilloscope kits are great. I just did this one a little while back. It was a lot of fun and handy for the price. They sell an acrylic case kit separately too.

kuman 3O-IUX5-O0TZ DSO 138 DIY Kit Open Source 2.4" TFT 1MSPS Digital Oscilloscope Kit with DIY Parts + Probe 13803K, SMD pre-soldered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195ZIURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LzIQDbP8TT31D

I also got this little signal generator kit to check the O-scope function.

Naravis Gelatinized Black Maca... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM70CMY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

They wasted $200 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DODE48E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1463017152&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=sodium+metal&dpPl=1&dpID=41vf4kUfckL&ref=plSrch

Damn I wanted to do this sooo bad 😫

Amazon! You can find packs of 12/24/48/etc. vials / amber bottles for extremely cheap. You can also get very cheap (in a good way, they're all high quality) nasal sprayers, as well. I have SOOOO many left over amber bottles and such.

Here are some examples!

1oz Amber Bottles 12pk

Same thing, but 2oz.

12 Amber Vials with Droppers

Larger Clear Round Pyrex bottle

2ml amber dram bottles (these also come in 24-36+ counts, too

...and there's so much more! Amazon is a goldmine for research materials in my experience! Hope I could help!

This is a copied comment on paint thinning from a previous post of mine:

Here's what I do. It saves paint and gets a nice paint consistency.

Buy some 30ml dropper bottles (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026K1YCK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_hY2ryb932CQ8S)

Fill a dropper with distilled water (available at most grocery stores)

I use a piece of poster board cut into small 6"X4" "pallettes"

I put down a drop (two max) of paint. If using paint that isn't in droppers it's usually a brushfull or so... Or you can move your paint into the dropper bottles mentioned above)

I then put down an equal amount of water right on top of the paint and mix until it's all combined, try to avoid too much spreading around on the paper to minimize wasted paint.

Each time I draw paint onto my brush from the paper I then wipe a bit of it off on the paper to make sure my brush isn't over loaded.

The paper pallettes are nice because you never have to mess with cleaning them. Use the paint you need and when the sheet is full throw it out (or sometimes you can even flip it over and use the back to get a little more life out of them)

Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JV6976/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475277051&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=1+dram+glass+vials&dpPl=1&dpID=417c7Vy986L&ref=plSrch

I got my erlenmeyer flask on Amazon. I strongly encourage the actual Pyrex brand, I have an off-brand 1L flask and bought a Pyrex 2L flask, the quality difference is pretty staggering.

Here's the one I bought.

I bought these. It's like a pH strip tape dispenser. I heard you shouldn't apply the strips directly to your vaginal wall or cervix- that may be harmful. So, I just swabbed my cervix and wiped on the strip. Since I already check my CM this way anyway, I figured I may as well use the sample. ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Since others have already said BIAB, I will go with 5 gal. HDPE can for no-chill brewing. I don't do a whole lot of no-chill batches and usually reserve it for beers without late hop additions, but cutting out the entire chilling step saves a boatload of time, and can sneak in some night time brews without having to stay up too late.

For those of you whom would like to make one of your own you can purchase the magnetic stirrer hot plate here ($210), and the Pyrex Erlenmeyer Flask here ($15.95)! Total investment cost: $225.95.

Alternatively you can purchase this magnetic stirrer hot plate for significantly less, bringing the total cost down to $175.90.

I just recently transferred my citadel paints to these kind of bottles https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V2C0C7Q , worked perfectly.

Even a $20 oscilloscope(full disclosure: this is my video) is better than a DMM when it comes to debugging anything beyond the most basic circuits. But if you really want to splurge, buy him a ~$349 Rigol 1054Z. That's a professional-level instrument on a tinkerer's budget... I used to use a $40,000 Tek scope, and honestly I prefer the Rigol's user interface... I only use the $$$ scope when I need more than 100 MHz analog bandwidth (which is rare for most engineers to ever need).

I use a sonic jewlery cleaner. I place my coils in a baggies of 70% or better ISO. Place the baggice in the cleaner in some water. Run it for 2 10 min cycles and i got nearly virgin coils. Just dry em for a day and the dry fire em a few times to release any trapped alcohol.


I use this one which has a built in heater so you don't have to warm your ISO.

Since we're on the topic of gloves from amazon... To anyone ordering: MAKE SURE TO READ HOW THICK THEY ARE.

I bought These from Amazon awhile back, to cover my hands while doing some machine maintenance because it has a lot of fine metal dust and grease that takes FOR-FUCKING-EVER to get off of my hands.

Ran out, then there was a sale with These. Bought them.... They're 3mils thick. The other ones were 6. It makes a HUGE difference. I tear the thinner gloves so goddamn often. It's great for slightly more delicate tasks, but for anything else, get the thicker ones.

The ones that Weiner linked are 5-5.5mils thick. Pretty close to my first box.

Get a erlenmeyer flask to make yeast starters. Spend the little bit extra and get a 2000ml flask made by Pyrex.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XR5W5E/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_SC_3p_dp_1

Also get Fermcap-S. Boilovers suck

I'm in Calgary and I got these to try.

5 Gallon Plastic Hedpack with cap https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0064O8OYK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Haven't tried yet though. I want to seal up the small vent.

We didn't like the idea of keeping our drinking water in a plastic container, but had trouble finding other options. That is until we stumbled upon this stainless steel fusti tank from a winemaking site:

https://morewinemaking.com/products/stainless-fusti-tank-14-gallon-1.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwj6PKBRCAy9-07PeTtGgSJAC1P9xGMJKI0BIx3URwTFw0PjOi8LNkEKDkKgNk-Jr2j2aGYBoCJTnw_wcB

It's more expensive than a plastic tank, but it works great. We have it hooked up to a Whale MkIII foot pump and a Whale telescoping faucet using 1/2" and 3/8" beverage tubing.

For the sink, we got a free bar sink from our neighbor but there are plenty of smaller bar sinks on Amazon. For drainage, we use a 5-gallon container that we bought off of Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064O8OYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope that helps! We have info on everything we used in our van conversion on our blog: https://gnomadhome.com/our-rig/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DODE48E

You're probably opening a can of worms with that question. I can tell you that in beer-making using bought spring water VS the well water where I lived made a significant improvement.

BUT!!!.... we're not making beer, we're going to distill it anyway, right? So, if you have no reason to think there's something in you tap water that is undesirable it may be okay to use it.

HOWEVER!!... What is critical is the pH of the water. You can buy some cheap pH test strips if you want. My water was way high, close to 9. Your yeast likes it around 5.2. I use this 5.2 pH stabilizer stuff, it seems to work and will last you a long, long time. You'll probably get more alchohol because the ideal pH lets it ferment more completely and quickly.

That said, you can probably skip all that and use your tap water and it will still turn out fine, you can probably buy spring water or distilled water and it will turn out fine. But keep in mind those store bought waters do nothing to maintain a consistent pH, and that's what your yeast really cares about.

All in all, buying water is probably cheap insurance, but since I've been using my tap water and getting good results I would only do it as an experiment. Maybe you would do the opposite, use bought water for awhile and then try the tap one time and see what difference you notice.

There are no issues with plastic containers- I can only get melting when I try to do it on purpose.

No, these are much higher quality LEDs than found in UFOs and will give off roughly twice the light per watt.

In a five gallon bucket with foil sides and the COB eight inches from the plant, with a Bridgelux Vero 18 at about 10 watts your plants will be at about 500 uMol/m2/sec of light (35,000 lux). This is a really good level for veging.

With 20 watts on the Vero 18 you'll be saturating your plant at 1000 uMol/m2/sec (about 70,000 lux). This is perfect for flowering. You can drive the LED harder but there will be rapid decreasing gains.


If you want to know about building COB grow lights from a competent person then you should check out growmau5's YouTube page. Outside the professional arena and even in it, this person likely knows more about COB LED grow light design than anyone else.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPSwmwj8ZLXObtBJmz-76rw

I often use lab power supplies as variable LED drivers. I bought two of these recently to replace some others. If you do much work with LEDs then these sort of power supplies are real time savers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

look up: Vero 18 3500K CRI 80 gen 7 (the Vero 29 costs three times as much but will be even more efficient)

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXRC-35E4000-D-73/976-1421-ND/6152431

edit- corrected "3800K" mistake

A newbie myself but, as said above, definitely take care when removing the keycaps. The stems are prone to breaking and getting stuck in the switch.

 

Since you have to take the switches apart in order to swap out the sliders for the Nexus sliders, invest in a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner. That is the one I got and, while not the best, it gets the job done. Get one of these as well.

1. Take all the switches apart. You should have the slider, the top housing, the spring, the tactile leaf, and the bottom housing with the contact leaf. Some people like to take out the contact leaf from the bottom housing but I like to leave it in.
   
   
2. Clean each group of parts in the ultrasonic cleaner with cool water and 1-2 dental tabs. I use cool water because the water gets pretty warm after 10-15 minutes of cleaning.
   
   
3. Once cleaned, lay them out on something like a napkin separated from each other, place them somewhere where they can stay relatively dust free (otherwise why even clean it) and let them dry for minimum 24 hours. Mine dried quicker but better safe than sorry.
   
    
   
   Since you say the springs are light for your tastes (same for me) you can buy replacement springs. People will warn you about SPRiT because of how he handled things in the past but he's the only person I know of who has Alps replacement springs. For me to truly enjoy these switches, I needed heavier springs so I decided to reach out to SPRiT through his website and hope for the best. I got my first order and my second order from him has already shipped. (Do note that Korea Post took about 35 days to deliver to me and the tracking didn't update at all since it left Korea. This may not be their fault, though, as I later realized I was using a service called Aftership and not Korea Posts website to track my order.)
   
   
    
   
   I'm no lubing expert but I have lubed some alps using RO59. I've been recommended this lube, as well. The basic gist of lubing goes:
   
   
4. Lube the two sides of the slider.
   
   
5. (Optional) Lube the two sides of the slider that make contact with the tactile leaf and contact leaf. This will likely cause a decrease in tactility.
   
   
6. Lube the rails of the top housing where the slider makes contact.
   
   
7. (Optional) Lube the inside of the slider, where the spring goes mainly.
   
   
8. (Optional) Lube the spring.
   
    
   
   Putting it all back together is pretty simple. If you're patient enough to wait, I'd go ahead and wait for the Nexus GB to ship. If not, Alps switches are able to be opened without desoldering, so you can go ahead and do a build now and replace the slider later.
   
    
   
    
   
   I hope I've helped :)

I use an ultra sonic cleaner ( Amazon, $30) and use some cheap denture cleaner like many recommend here. Mine are crystal clear. Seriously, just buy one and use it everyday. It makes things so much easier.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0142G8ONC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you can unscrew the atomizer on both and the funnel fits, you can pour with a steady hand. You can also use plastic pipettes; they are cheap as chips.

If the atomizers can't be removed I use these syringes and followed that video.

You want to search for "2oz Boston Round Bottles."

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JL61KNE/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w

http://www.specialtybottle.com/glass-bottles/amber-boston-rounds/2oz-bra2

https://www.glassbottleoutlet.com/product/2-oz-clear-boston-round-with-black-poly-cone-cap-20400

Different people's taste buds sense bitterness differently. People who like IPAs are much less sensitive to bitterness and therefore it doesn't overwhelm the other flavors that come from the hops. You can even get these to test your bitter sensitivity: http://www.amazon.com/PTC-TASTE-PAPER-VIAL-STRIPS/dp/B001D7FF5E. Kind of a fun party trick.

Just order some test strips from Amazon. If it tastes really bitter, you're probably a supertaster.

Amazon 30mL droppers

Thick nitrile disposable gloves that still have good dexterity. I personally really like SAS Safety's Raven Gloves.

Depending on what you wrench on, almost all gloves will inevitably break at some point during the process, you will forget to grab gloves, or will have black arms and clean hands on those REALLY dirty jobs... for those moments, get lava soap, hot water and start scrubbing.

I've use these and they've held up well to gear oil, coolant, and grease.

But I'm working on machines or cars and rarely spend time soaked in diesel fuel.

I don't have that cleanser or I would test it for you. Just a HU, I bought these testing strips from Amazon, and now I test all the things!

I can't get an exact 3.6 for example, but for our purposes, it works.

The reaction that is happening is

Zn + 2 HNO3 -> Zn(NO3)2 + H2

Zinc + nitric acid produces zinc nitrate and hydrogen gas

So as your bath is being exhausted, the HNO3 is being used up. Eventually it'll stop because the HNO3 is all gone. What you could get is some pH paper. That will tell you how acidic the solution is. A fresh batch should have a pH around 0-1. As it reacts it'll get closer to a pH of 7. For your bath, it'll never get above 7 since that is a basic solution.

The reaction might start slowing down once it's above a pH of 5-6, but you'll have to do a little monitoring to see what's best.

They've been stored right. These are the ones I use: https://www.amazon.com/Hydrion-paper-Dispenser-Color-Chart/dp/B005FYGXUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486171334&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+hydrion

Here's the thing though, I hope I'm wrong. I just noticed that the COSRX BHA wasn't doing anything for me, so purchased another bottle thinking I got unlucky. Used that for a couple weeks, nothing. Decided to test the pH of both and BOOM. Around 6. Then I came here in a panick haha.

If anybody has other BHA recommendations with a minimal ingredient list, preferably one that uses betaine salicylate. PLEASE indulge me.

I suffered yeast recurrent yeast infections for 2.5 years! This all started from taking antibiotics. I tried boric acid, 90 billion culture probiotics, maintenance fluconazole (1 time every week), several vaginal creams-you name it. I tested for HIV and diabetes-negative. The recurrent bv/yeast specialist at my obgyn office was baffled at my issues!

I am not sure what ended up working for me. I have been clear for a little less than a year now. I have a few theories: 1.) I stopped using the pill and went on an IUD 1.5 years ago. I believe this helped somewhat (lower hormone dose). 2.) I don't wear underwear at night, and sleep without shorts/pants. 3.) I just rinse with water in the shower and use only coconut oil to shave. 4.) I use an AWESOME organic water-based lube that is pH balanced (the company UK based by the name of YES). 5.) Before bed I rinse my vulva/vag off with warm water using a "perrineal bottle", which is basically a squirt bottle. 6.) When I get a uti, I buy d-mannose, and add it to my water. I have cured several utis using this. D-mannose is a special sugar that clings to e-coli in the urinary tract/bladder and flushes it out when you pee. I swear it works just as well as antibiotics. You have to make sure you take the right dosage. Some supplements just provide a dose enough to prevent but not cure utis. I was skeptical at first, but it is something I wish I knew about earlier. Check it out on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SK66UJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1448632306&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=d+mannose+uti
7.) I stopped taking maintenance doses of fluconazole and only used it when I had an active infection. Over the course of 2.5 years, I probably got more than 30-40 infections.

Edit: I also use this to test if I have bv or yeast: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FYGXUC/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484881069&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Normal vaginal ph is between 3.8-4.5. BV will cause your pH to be off, but yeast will not.

Here's what I've found so far. The search continues...

Refractometer with Brix + SG scales - $19 Brülosophy link | non-affiliate link

5 gallon No Chill cube - $11.50 Brülosophy link | non-affiliate link

pH Meter (starts 3:15pm) Brülosophy link | non-affiliate link

40x-1000x Microscope (starts 3:50pm) Brülosophy link | non-affiliate link

> First time for b&w. Just feels bad pouring it down the drain when I’ve been using my c-41 chemicals for two years lmao.

Aaaauuuggghh DO NOT pour it down the drain! Particularly the fixer. You're throwing silver as well as nasty chemicals into the plumbing which is terrible for the environment.

Collect the used chemistry in a container (I use these) and take it to your local hazardous waste disposal facility.

Yep, that's what they use for no-chill. I picked up two of these in February for $12.78 each -- for RO water storage not no-chill in my case. They're $3 cheaper than the one you linked.

First head over to /r/microdosing to get a more detailed answer or broader answers to microdosing. I'll give it a go though.

So tolerance for LSD is something like after 2 weeks you get back to baseline where 100μg = 100μg. Refer to this. In the case on microdosing, we seem to come to the conclusion that the tolerance effect of such a small dose is incredibly low. So low in fact that daily use for a while will still incur similar effects. Though I'm not sure how long that can last.

To compensate for this it is recommended to have a routine of 3/4 days between the doses, this is mostly to minimise the build of tolerance (no matter how little it is). This works incredibly well for some. You can find the right way for yourself.

We do not know how tolerance to LSD works but in the case of microdosing there is no need to increase doses - if you're going the daily route - as this would increase the perceptual effects which you do not want. Keeping to a set dose also keeps the effects in line with what to expect, avoiding cases of racing thoughts, body temperature fluctuations and other effects. But I recommend not doing this. Go for the every few days and keep the dose similar once your find that sweet spot.

On top of all of that dosing is an important factor so cutting up a tab is not recommended as the tab may not be dosed equally. To get around this using a method called volumetric dosing is advised. Here's a guide on how to do that. Using less distilled water can be done if your use a pipette to dose, one like this for example.

All in all I have to admit I love microdosing. It has helped me out incredibly. I vouch for it and would love the idea to spread. I would caution any person doing it though to keep within their limits and follow a regime they construct themselves or someone has recommended, say Dr Fadiman.

Edit. My link to Dr Fadiman's letter is being flagged for spam. Great. It's at the bottom of this article.

One ounce is 29.5 ml.

One 250ug tab in 29.5 ml = 8.5ug per ml, which is actually a good microdose volume.

Use a marked dropper like this

1. I would check out FAQ/Wiki in the menu and use this handy calculator https://microdosingcalculator.org/
   
   If your not sure on how much one drop of the full strength liquid LSD is I would estimate it to be 100ug and then dilute it in 20ml of distilled water or vodka or mix. Then just to be on the safe side take 0.5ml only and on a day off from work or any important obligations or responsibilities.
   
   
2. Could last a year for some people, but mine lasted about 8 months.
   
   
3. Leaving it for half a day or maybe even less if you keep mixing it every so often should be fine.
   
   
4. The syringe will work but if you want to take less and just a few drops when you dose then I would get something like this.- Ezy Dose Straight Tip Glass Medicine Dropper (Calibrated) 1 mL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071S5Y46/

I use this 8 oz bottle. It works well.

pic

I see your wishlist...VG...& these & these squeeze bottles. That was confusing as fuck for a minute. Are those squeeze bottles you meant?

like this: http://www.amazon.com/Vestil-BTL-RC-8-Polyethylene-Dispensing-Removable/dp/B00B5138SO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452311523&sr=8-1&keywords=ldpe+squeeze+bottle

I've solved your problem for you. Low density condiment bottles. They work like a dream for both VG and PG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B5138SO/ref=pd_aw_sim_79_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=21vuyUGpFqL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=1PQ9TG5QH4NF33C30J2Z

Lay off the cock sauce.

One whole pound, for a low, low price

As others have said, starbucks coffee usually gives away old stuff for free (bring a rubermaid tote or your car will likely get some unwanted coffee juice leaked through). The vinegar thing depends on the water you use. If your water comes from an aquifer, its going to have some (maybe lots) of calcium in it that causes it to be basic. You want it to be acidic, hence the vinegar. The problem is that vinegar (acetic acid) is a weak acid and not very concentrated. If you don't use enough acid to neutralize the base in the water, you're still going to be screwed. The easy thing to do is to buy some litmus paper on amazon (try here). My water is so hard I had to get concentrated hydrochloric acid (roughly 12 M, and they sell it at lowes surprisingly!) It would take about 8 mL of conc HCl to 4 gallons of hard water in order to drive down the pH.

Don't use softened water (too much salt!). What I ended up doing is collecting rain water in a rain barrel. Water your plants daily (they like well drained moist soil).

A big thing to keep an eye out for... Look at the color of your leaves. If you're doing the pH thing right, your leaves will be a nice green color but if the soil/water is too basic (too high on the pH scale), they'll start to turn red. When this starts to happen you need to correct your problem quickly or you're screwed for the season. Once the leaves turn red, they don't normally turn back, however, new growth will grow green. If the plants aren't happy, they won't make fruit.

If you have other questions, hit me up. I'm doing this for my fourth year and I'm finally getting most of the kinks worked out of my system. Lots of failures but I'm expecting much better results this year! Best of luck!!

Even in this thread there seems to be some disagreement over it! From what I'm understanding in the other comments, carbonation itself causes a drop in ph, which will damage enamel (see: pH levels source and 'danger zone' links from the dentist student), so yes, carbonated water, on its own, will damage enamel through changing acidity of your mouth (another peer-reviewed source that I found through browsing, since I prefer to give academic sources where possible lol; on the other hand, some brands of seltzer water apparently actively try to balance the pH of their drinks to correct for the acidification produced by carbonation, so that they are no longer damaging. Ultimate recommendation is probably to pick up some litmus strips for cheap on Amazon, check the pH of your drink yourself, and if it's acidic, mitigate any enamel damage by drinking with a straw and rinsing your mouth after drinking the beverage.

> Answer for New to electronics, where to start?

Everybody learns differently. Some people are theoretical learners, while others are physical learners who need to touch things with their hands to learn anything. And others still are some hybrid between the two. As such, it is very difficult to answer the question "where to start", because there is no one-size fits all solution.

Further complicating the issue is the issue of budget. Not just monetary investment, but time investment as well. No doubt, the best education possible is to simply go to a multi-year university and dedicated multiple years of your life to the trade, but this is more than the typical hobbyist can afford.

Assuming infinite time and money, the ideal learning environment is a lab environment surrounded by high-end, precise and accurate equipment (often costing in the thousands of dollars) with which you can measure, test, and experiment to the heart's desire. For example, accurate variable power supplies that can operate in voltage-mode or current-mode... signal generators to create square, triangle, and sine waves, and a high-end, very accurate Tektronix Oscilloscope so that you can actually see the voltages and currents as they happen. Indeed, this is what your typical lab environment inside a college would be like.

Dedicate yourself to graduate-level college subjects, and you will also get you access to very high-end material, such as scanning electron microscopes, clean-rooms, VLSI integrated circuits, FPGAs and custom PCBs to tie it all together. Mastery of these subjects, aided with state-of-the-art software for simulations will put you into the upper-echleons of world-class electrical engineering.

But learning how to use such complicated equipment is itself a learning curve that takes not only money... but time as well. There are plenty of hobby-level electronics users who make due with both simpler and cheaper equipment.

AA or 9V Batteries provide cheap sources of nearly ideal voltage sources (at least, while the batteries have juice in them). Digital Multimeters can be bought as cheaply as $20... although most people will recommend spending around $100 for a solid precise and accurate multimeter (better accuracy costs more money). Add on $50 to $100 for a breadboard and some typical components (a light bulb, a motor, resistors, capacitors, and some basic chips like a 555 timer or an Op-Amp, and wires to hook it all together), and you'll be well on your way to learning electronics.

Finally, there's the issue of subject material. There are complicated analog components, like building power-supplies, or radios... and then there are complicated digital components like logic and even computers. The two worlds require different math to understand (Discrete mathematics for Digital, Calc3 / Differential Equations for Analog).

There are also software packages to help students learn on the cheap. There are programs that are free for hobbyists, like LTSpice for simulations or Eagle for schematic drawings / PCB layout.

--------

I'm sorry for the long-winded answer, but this is a deep subject with many valid paths forward. This all comes down to the following:

1. You need to learn some degree of theory to get started.
   
   
2. You can accelerate and/or augment your theoretical learning with software tools such as PSpice. Its a lot cheaper and faster to simulate an effect rather than to actually use real components.
   
   
3. You need physical equipment. Software will never replicate the smell of burning components when that resistor catches on fire for the first time. Some things can only be learned when working in the lab.
   
   Theory
   ============
   
   Here are a list of recommended books:
   (Someone else: make a list of good beginner books, I dunno of any).
   
   There are also free online courses:
   
   

• MIT's 6.002: This is the first course taught at MIT, and all of the video lectures, exams, and class material has been posted online for free.
  
  
• All About Circuits: This messy webpage actually holds a lot of good information about circuits and electronics. I find that paid books are better, but if you don't want to spend any money, this is a very complete reference.
  
  Software
  ===========
  
  The primary software you need as a beginner is a "SPICE" simulator. You can place components like resistors, capacitors and inductors and the software will simulate the components.
  
  
• Partsim is a free website that can simulate your basic electrical components.
  
  
• LTspice: Linear Technology wants you to buy their stuff, so they made a free program that accurately simulates their chips. Can't argue with the results or this marketing scheme though, free software is extremely good and useful for the beginner.
  
  Tools and Hardware
  ===========
  
  
• Uggghhhh. I'm tired. Work in progress, will continue writing later.
  
  
  WORK IN PROGRESS
  ==============
  
  
• Finish First Draft
  
• Edit down my wordy language to be shorter
  
• Come up with good beginner books (paid books generally are easier to read and are better edited)
  
• Figure out some decent beginner kits: both digital world (something Arduino based with a decent free web-lessons), and analog world (opamps and stuff).
  
• Work out a set of beginner tools, in order of "cost-effectiveness" (Ex: Digital Multimeter, cheap USB Oscilloscope, etc. etc.)

It's this one. I got it early this year. It's worked great for me.

I have a Rigol DS1054Z and it is a really nice piece of equipment, it's not overly expensive at $400 but may be complete overkill for automotive work (I'm not sure what kind of signals you'll be looking at).

Are cars a lot of lower voltage logic signals? Or is it a mix with a lot of analog stuff as well?

Something like:

http://www.amazon.com/Rigol-DS1054Z-Digital-Oscilloscopes-Bandwidth/dp/B012938E76/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462302494&sr=8-2&keywords=oscilloscope

If you need cheaper, there are USB scopes.

I've got some old spore syringes - 10ml. Would they work? This is the product https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0161V0024/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'd take off the needle, and just put it up thar and inject the water.
I'm considering just sipping the beers... I just want to enhance the trip in any way possible. I've smoked alot in past trips, but I wanna hear some first hand accounts on if anyone has ended a t break while tripping.

There are a few options on amazon.ca or the 2 oz option here. That is if you don't mind splitting the last bits of the bottle up...

These are the 2oz. size but they also come in 1oz. depending on the size of the samples you're looking for.
https://smile.amazon.com/LabStock-LB165-2-Boston-Round-Bottles/dp/B01JL61KNE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486409309&sr=8-2&keywords=boston+bottles

I've ordered these in the past. Take your time, it's the holidays, busiest time of the year. Glad to help, and I look forward to the swap.

You can use PTC test strips to see if you're a supertaster.

Also: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001D7FF5E

Plastic Pipettes

edit: Plastic Dropper Bottles Personally wouldn't store prethinned lacquers and solvent-based acrylics (Mr. Color, Gaia Notes, Tamiya) this way long term, but definitely okay for water-based acrylics or acrylic-polyurethanes like Vallejo, Badger, Citadel, etc.

I've had this set of 30ml and the 2014 version of this set of 15ml for over two years now, and haven't had a problem with either. They've stayed sealed and haven't dried out, no issues with either the tips or the lids. I would recommend the ones I bought from Amazon. I may have gotten really lucky, but so far, so good.

12oz bottles for medium and flow aid (though these do NOT have caps, so personally I'd find something else at a local Michael's or art supply store).

30ml bottles - these are perfect for individual washes.

Ha, I get questions about this any time I post something. The rack is from Back2base-ix they have all sorts of good stuff. Not the cheapest solution but it really is amazing for organizing the hobby area and adding some aesthetics to the area (which helps spark my creativity a lot personally). It does ship from the UK so expect some time for delivery and be aware that since it is acrylics there is always the small chance of damage. I had a tiny crack in one of the drawers that I just glued back together as it wasn't worth it to try and return/exchange.
The dropper bottles can be found on Amazon and Ebay. I pre-thin my GW paints to brush thickness and then transfer them to the droppers. So much easier for using a wet pallet and also for mixing into the airbrush. Hope that helps!

Their called drams.

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Vials-Dram-Pack-12/dp/B002JV6976

Science and Surplus stores, ftw

edit also Amazon

glass vials in a dark place at room temp (not sure if either one of those makes a difference, but it couldn't hurt)

I really like these. Thicker, don’t rip like cheaper ones.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002XXO60M?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I guess I should share this pro tip, which I came up with while lamenting a broken decanter when I was opening a bottle of Monte Bello for the S5 finale of Breaking Bad:

http://www.amazon.com/PYREX-Narrow-Mouth-Erlenmeyer-Flasks/dp/B004XR5W5E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_1

$25, nearly indestructible, dishwasher safe and I got 2 for less than the price of a new Reidel.

In this case I would take it off the stir plate and use a sanitized funnel to transfer the whole starter into a sanitized growler. Stick the growler in the fridge and reclaim your flask for the next starter.

I bought this flask and it has served me well. I highly recommend it (& free shipping to boot).

Get something like this, just a roll of ph paper. It only takes a tiny bit and it'll last forever. For these purposes, its as accurate as you need and you don't need to maintain it like a ph meter.

Tap water or distilled. It will depend on where you start with the water among other things.

To be sure this.

Well pH is measuring acidity/basicity from 1-14 so I try to adjust it to 5.5 - 6.5 using this.

Rip a tiny piece of the pH paper and just barely dip a clean glass rod in the solution you're testing, then touch the glass rod to the paper then determine if you need to add a tiny amount of vinegar or baking soda

Buy a 10G cheapo AL pot, and a couple of cheap FV's capable of doing 5G. Buckets or whatever. Personally I like these https://www.amazon.com/5-Gallon-Plastic-Hedpack-cap/dp/B0064O8OYK/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1522706163&sr=8-15&keywords=5+gallon+jerry+can but they don't really have adequate head space for a full 5 gallons without a blow off, and they're not that cheap in the US anyway. Now you have everything you need for 5 gallon extract. Add a $3 paint strainer bag and you have everything you need for all grain.

Best fermenter you'll ever have https://www.amazon.com/5-Gallon-Plastic-Hedpack-cap/dp/B0064O8OYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492193075&sr=8-1&keywords=hedpack

Small sealable opening, HDPE so you can fill it with hot liquid and actually sterilize it, solid handle that doesn't feel like it'll snap off when filled with 6 gallons of liquid (and is comfortable), stackable when empty, good shape for fitting in a chest freezer.

You can't watch your beer though. EDIT: Well, you can watch a little, they're a lot more transparent than buckets, just not fully transparent. I can definitely watch light coloured lager churn for instance.

Yeah. Like I said I only know what I've read and I've never done it. So you probably wanna talk to someone who has before you end up potentially wasting your product or something worse. But heres some links that'll help

https://www.reddit.com/r/Drugs/comments/2eanez/proper_volumetric_dosing_guide_for_etizolam/

https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Tip-Calibrated-Glass-Medicine-Dropper/dp/B0071S5Y46

In an amber or cobalt glass bottle... Not like this.

But something akin to that. You'll have to get a calibrated medicine dropper... They have amber glass bottles with these already included, on the lid to the original bottle...but I can't find that right now.

https://www.amazon.com/Ezy-Dose-Straight-Tip-Calibrated-Medicine/dp/B0071S5Y46

After that, just avoid direct heat & sunlight exposure... LABEL WHAT IT IS, AND THE CONCENTRATION PER ML...

Uh... There isn't much literature about volumetrically dosing with tabs, at least the actual dissolving... But I'd say just play it safe and shake it up a good few times within a 24-hour period before using.

This was from DL:

You guys convinced me to home brew. Especially after I just did some math on what my latest $2k purchase would get me.

Putting together the list, will be refining as I learn more.

• [Autoclave](http://www.amazon.com/Prestige-Classic-Electric-Autoclave- Sterilizer/dp/B002AR0NUI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hpc_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0E5AJ7PQ2CHM1083QMPT) -- $899
  
• 2 x Autoclave Gasket -- $120
  
• Hormone powder
  
• Filtered Cottonseed USP Oil 4 Liter -- $255
  
• Benzyl Benzoate USP 1 Liter -- $60.75
  
• Benzyl Alcohol USP 1 Liter -- $45
  
• 3ml TERUMO Luer Lock Syringe w/o Needle (Qty. 50) -- $8
  
• 1 x 10ml EXEL Luer Lock Syringe w/o Needle (Qty. 50) -- $15.25
  
• 5 x B-D 25g x 1.5' (Qty. 10) -- $11
  
• 5 x B-D Needles 18g 1.5 (Qty 10) -- $11
  
• Alcohol prep pads/wipes
  
• Accurate scale to hundredths place
  
• Calibration weight
  
• 2 x Corning Pyrex 3 Piece Glass Graduated Low Form Griffin Beaker Set, 50ml, 100ml, 250ml -- $29.90
  
• 4 x PYREX Griffin Low Form 400mL Beaker Graduated Ea -- $34
  
• 4 x Beaker - PYREX GLASS 10ml -- $22.72
  
• 2 x SEOH Class A Volumetric Flask Borosilicate Glass 250ML -- $29.90
  
• 2 x Beaker Filters -- 150ml Nalgene MF75 Bottle Top Filter - 33mm neck (Qty. 12) -- $145
  
• Vacuum Pump -- 1.5 CFM Portable -- $275
  
• Melting Point Checker
  
• Sterile .20um syringe filter (For Tren) -- $162.88
  
• Crimper
  
• Vials
  
• Caps
  
• Glass stir rod
  
• Agar plates
  
• Latex gloves
  
• Alconox Detergent Cleaning Concentrate 4 lb. Container -- $30.30
  
• Scilogex 86143101 Model MS-H280-Pro BlueSpin LED Circular-Top Digital Magnetic Hotplate Stirrer with Ceramic Coated Plate, 100/240V -- $200
  
• 2 x Bel-Art Scienceware 371100138 PTFE Octagon Spinbar Magnetic Stirrer Bar, with Integral Pivot Ring, White, 1" Length, 3/8" Diameter -- $13
  
• 3 x jugs isopropyl alcohol
  
• Propolyene Gylcol 300
  
• Lockable Medical Storage Box -- $44.50
  
• Horizontal Laminar Flow Hood 48" x 24" -- $1,900
  
  
  Which Bottle Top Filter?
  ---------------------------------
  
• Millipore Hydrophilic PVDF Stericup-GV Bottletop Filter Unit, Radio-Sterilized, 0.22µm Pore Size -- $225
  
  Or
  
  
• 2 x Beaker Filters -- 150ml Nalgene MF75 Bottle Top Filter - 33mm neck (Qty. 12) -- $145
  
  
  Which Pipettor?
  ---------------------------------
  
• VWR Ergonomic High-Performance Pipettor -- $267.02
  
  or
  
  
• BRAND seripettor* pro Bottletop Dispenser - 1-10 mL -- #296.30
  
  Money is not an object. I'm not the type to do things cheaply or in a half-assed way. Lets set up the dream home brew lab now. I'll post pictures.
  
  What to buy?
  
  

The home version is to raise the temps to between 75-80c and sustain it there, while mixing, for an extended period of time, and allowing it to cool to near room temp before bottling.

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Scilogex-86143101-MS-H280-Pro-Circular-Top-Magnetic/dp/B00AYGIFCA

Once temperature is reached: https://i.imgur.com/4NWmbeN.jpg

Four hours later: http://i.imgur.com/wsUfL3f.jpg

As you can see the color has changed significantly, and to the extent one would expect with a well "steeped" juice.

It also remedies some of the unpleasant volatiles by allowing them to escape as gas coming off the flask.

I believe that a heated plate is essential in the speed steeping process (which I assume is what you're going for) in which case I doubt you're going to find one under $100. I believe this one is the go-to for most people here. There are some "lightly used" ones on amazon as well for a few bucks cheaper.

I recently sent a pretty big email list to my brother, so I'm just copy/pasting out of the email. Before you ask why I'm recommending 12 packs of the beakers, it's because they break, and you WILL break them. Buy this stuff:


Scilogex 86143101 Model MS-H280-Pro LED Circular-Top Digital Magnetic Hot Plate Stirrer with 5.3" Diameter Ceramic Coated Plate, 110V
http://amzn.com/B00AYGIFCA - I'm not sure why, but when you use this link, it takes you to a non-amazon supplier. Click the link to buy from other sellers that offer prime shipping. It's $60 cheaper.


Spinpak Magnetic Stir Bar Assortment with Pivot Ring (Pack of 6)
http://amzn.com/B002VBW72K


Glass Beakers, 50ml Pack of 12
http://amzn.com/B003K1EH0A


Glass Beakers, 100ml Pack of 12
http://amzn.com/B003K1KQKK


Edit: Also, I don't turn the heater on until I've finished adding all ingredients except nicotine, but the entire time, I'm running the stirrer. Once all ingredients excluding nicotine are in, I then set the hotplate to 80c, and run the mix for 90 minutes. If you have beakers that have a cap, use the cap to capture vapor instead of letting it escape in to the atmosphere. If you buy the beakers I linked, you'll need to cover them. I use plastic wrap with a very small rubber band (like for orthodontic braces.)

Edit 2: Before heat is applied, I'm stirring at 200 rpm. Once the solution is up to temperature, I increase to between 450 - 700 rpm depending on the viscosity of the liquid I've created. You'll have to play around with the speed until you arrive at a speed that is not causing the liquid to spin out to the sides so much that the magnetic pill is halfway out of the solution.

Edit 3: I have sacrificial magnetic pills in each of my bottles of nicotine. When I take them out of the freezer, they go directly on the stirrer. NO HEAT. Just leave the cap on and stir for a while.

Edit 4: Before you balk at the $200 price tag of the stirrer, consider this. My ADV is POET Amaretto Nite Cap. It's $22 a bottle. I go through a bottle in a little less than 3 days. This stirrer costs the same as 9 bottles. A bottle of DIY juice costs approximately $1 to make. Do the math.

I guess it was actually 8oz bottles, but it really doesn't matter. The mouth is wide enough to transfer without a funnel. Just pour, then squirt.

https://www.amazon.com/Vestil-BTL-RC-8-Polyethylene-Dispensing-Removable/dp/B00B5138SO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466710141&sr=8-1&keywords=ldpe+bottle+8oz

I transfer all of my flavorings in to 1oz glass dropper bottles. My VG, PG, and nic are transferred to 8oz squeeze bottles so I can easily add it to my mixes. There's no waste, nothing to clean up, and I can make a 20ml batch in just a couple minutes and a 125ml batch in only a couple minutes more.

For recipe calculation I just use an Excel sheet where I have every flavor's specific gravity referenced for use in a formula to automatically adjust for my batch size.

I really don't think it could get any easier than this.

You can purchase sodium in small quantities through lab supply stores

https://www.amazon.com/Sodium-Individual-Packets-GalliumSource-LLC/dp/B00DODE48E

Any food grade alkali is fair game to substitute for any other if you can get the needed pH. Usually the recommended choice in a recipe is determined by either locally accessible ingredients or ease of measurement at the scale needed (I am talking through my hat there, but have reasons to believe I am correct, which I will explain).

As an additional hobby, I do a lot of tie dyeing. The reactive dyes are the most color fast for natural fibers , but require a specific pH (11) in which to work. For just over $5 you get 100 pH test strips. For a Catholic homeschool meeting 20-ish years ago, I wanted to make pretzels with the kids as a demonstration of a traditional Lenten food. I was a bit scared about kids and lye, so I started looking at the pH needed to get pretzel browning, because I wanted them to participate at every step of the making. I checked the ph of baking soda solutions and lye solutions with my hand dandy on hand litmus test strips and was not liking it, so researched and stumbled across a way of reducing baking soda by baking that gets you a lot closer to the ideal pH of 13 that lye yields.

An insight was born. I do not use my pH strips as often as my thermapen, but because I have them, I have learned to measure pH for good results whenever browning is an issue. There are a lot more factors that influence the result, but the pH value is the most important in making substitutions. The solution temperature and length of the dunk are the next most important - and there are lots of papers out there explaining the science, but I am still at a level that process feel and product happiness determine temp and time.

The ph of tap water depends on where you live.. but I know my whole state more or less has safe water in the taps. You can a get pack of like 100 test strips from amazon for like $5. Just make sure the PH is 7 or above.

These are the ones I bought and they work fine! I don't have any basis of comparison, though, since these are the only ones I've used.

You can decant the paint into bottles. Below is the bottles I've been using.
https://www.amazon.com/TOPWEL-Excellent-Eyedrops-Dropping-Removable/dp/B00V2C0C7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=paint+dropper&qid=1574922081&sprefix=paint+drop&sr=8-6

I've got this one, works well enough, no complaints. Plenty of power for charging up some lithium cells.

Tekpower TP3005T Variable Linear DC Power Supply, 0 - 30V @ 0 - 5A with Alligator Cable and Power Cord,Upgraded TP3005D,HY3005D, Mastech

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JAxJyb86T5GFC

I know theres not much love for the cheap import stuff in this thread, but i have this one, and its been verrry good to me for the price:

Tekpower TP3005T Variable Linear DC Power Supply, 0-30V @ 0-5A with Alligator Test Leads (110V Input) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S9nYBb4J9SGFW

Here is the one that I use. It's heavy, but works pretty well for me.

This one had good reviews when I bought it and hasn't burned down my house in the last 11 months! $80, if that's "inexpensive" to you.

You are going to want to balance tools and parts.

TOOLS (must haves)

• Multimeters (At least two, I suggest starting with one cheapo ($5-$10) and one in the $30-$50 range)
  
• Variable regulated power supply with current limiting (Skip the cheap/dangerous chinese crap and get a used HP/Agilent/Keysight one off ebay like this or this.)
  
• Breadboards (several)
  
• Jumper wires
  
• Wire strippers and cutters
  
• Decent soldering Iron ($50-$100) (DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS)
  
• Desoldering pump and/or wick (The ctrl-z of the soldering world)
  
• Heat shrink tubing for sealing connections (Especially if you are going to be doing outdoor stuff)
  
• Microcontrollers (I suggest starting with an Arudino Uno since it has the largest amount of online support material, you could get an Uno kit, any of them will be fine)
  .
  .
  TOOLS (eventually)
  
• Logic Analyzer (Let's you see the logic signals in your circuit which is super helpful for debugging, I have a bitscope micro which is decent, but the software kinda sucks and is more than just a logic analyzer)
  
• A function generator (variable voltage and frequency for sine, square and triangle waves) (Again I suggest used off ebay, something like this.)
  
• Oscilloscope (a really amazing tool for actally seeing what is going on in your circuit)
  .
  .
  PARTS (vaguely in order of usefullness)
  
• Elenco Resistor Kit
  
• Elenco Capacitor Kit
  
• Elenco Transistor Kit
  
• Elenco Diode Kit
  
• Elenco LED Kit
  (Of couse you don't have to get the Elenco kits, those are just the ones I use and really like)
  
• Voltage regulator ICs (Great for providing regulated power to things that need more than what your arduino can provide)
  
• Trimmer Potentiometer Kit (really useful to have around for many projects)
  
• Old electronic equipment to scavenge parts out of (Many of my parts have come from old equipment or broken ATX computer power supplies. Tearing stuff apart is both fun and yields great parts.)
  .
  .
  .
  I think that's all for now...

id try on of these Rigol DS1054Z Digital Oscilloscope
:https://www.amazon.com/Rigol-DS1054Z-Digital-Oscilloscope-Channels/dp/B012938E76/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479681375&sr=8-3&keywords=oscilloscope
they're pretty nice

Purple Power / Super Clean diluted at about 1:1 with water, let it soak for a couple days in an airtight tub (Tupperware or something similar), then go at it with an old tooth brush and water. It wont get every nook and cranny, but I've been using this method to strip minis of acrylic paints and basecoats for years with great success.

If you're willing to spend a little more money, get a cheap sonic jewelry cleaner off of amazon (something like this will work well) and fill it with the same above mixture. Drop your minis into it, let it soak, turn it on for 2-3 mins every now and again, and save yourself most of the elbow grease. You'll likely still have to go at it with the toothbrush though to get some of the more stubborn spots, but it wont be as labor intensive as a deep scrub.

Something like this

One of the best fountain pen related purchases you'll make.

I've been eyeballing this one for awhile. I've never had an ultrasonic before so I don't know much about it other than it has the same specs as the others with a bigger tray. I've pretty much got my wife sold on it since she can clean her jewelry with it too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0142G8ONC?psc=1

I had a similar problem, I ended up just grabbing some of these.

A coffee straw would've been cheaper... but the syringes are handy to measure with from time to time.

It's not a synth, but this DIY oscilloscope is only $20, and you can order them with the SMD parts presoldered. In case you don't settle on a DIY synth, you can get a prebuilt one and this guy for soldering fun!

For testing something this simple, you could probably get the answer with something dirt cheap like a DSO138 Kit , $25 unassembled, $30-40 assembled. There's also a 'bigger brother' versions, the DSO202 or DSO221 which are still <$100 assembled.

The cheap scope on a chip would work for this.... any number of them on amazon and they are fine for basic stuff with ardino or rpi


https://smile.amazon.com/kuman-3O-IUX5-O0TZ-Digital-Oscilloscope-pre-soldered/dp/B0195ZIURK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Oscope+kit&qid=1572835568&sr=8-3

It's one of these just sitting on top of the dx7 I think. Cheap as fuck but definitely not pretty. I think its the red pcb clashing with the dx7 pastels that is problematic.

Personally I'd start very small, like $50. I just put one of these together and it works well enough for home projects. I would not buy any specialists tool until there is a specific need for it.

Well, tyvek won't really help much - heck just painter's plastic as a vapor barrier from the outside and then some pink stuff (I use recycled denim, it also helps dampen sound) would work just fine. Other people use the rigid foam - check out some of /u/gilliganphantom's posts - he used spray foam.

Insulation can help a lot with condensation, but remember that airflow!

In the meantime, buy buckets of desiccant. https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Indicating-Desiccants-Dehumidifier-Air-Tight/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=desicant&qid=1550686565&s=gateway&sr=8-8 Hopefully this won't get spam filtered.

I can't tell what's actually in the product, so maybe. You can get generic silica gel desiccant which will do the trick. You will have to recharge the beads every so often. Others on here will tell you that you should actively dehydrate your PVA using a food dehydrator, for example, or your oven if the temp goes low enough. Then you can store the PVA using silica gel to keep any moisture away. If you are good about keeping the silica gel dry then I think it will pull some moisture out of the PVA with enough time. I specifically use this and I 3D printed some containers to hold it in inside a gasket-lined plastic box.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DBPY6F/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5NTCWW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

solved my problems.

I live in south Louisiana where humidity is like that friend who doesn't know when it's time to leave. My box stays at 10% humidity now. Also, /u/arudinne linked the same weather sealed boxes I use for filament when it's being stored. Use the leftover silica in the weatherbox. That container is running at 10-11 humidity also.


You can also make a weatherseal box a dry box and directly print from it, which is something I might consider after getting an mmu2 if I can't find a good off the shelf solution.

Color indicating silica. I dumped a 5 pound bucket into my dry box: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5NTCWW/

They're called Boston Rounds in the US. They come in various sizes and are commonly used in swaps and splits. Similar options exist in Europe

https://www.amazon.com/LabStock-LB165-2-Boston-Round-Bottles/dp/B01JL61KNE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504457500&sr=8-1&keywords=boston+rounds

OP, I wonder if you've ever been tested for being a supertaster. A small percentage of humans are born with denser quantities of tastebuds on their tongue, and as a result are a lot more sensitive to taste (especially bitter tastes) than the rest of us. You can test yourself by buying these strips. They only cost $6. And if you put them on your tongue and they immediately taste bitter and disgusting - congrats, you're a super taster!

Super tasters are more likely to be extremely picky eaters and seek out bland tasting foods. They usually are extremely anti-vegetables and anti-spicy foods. They also have aversions to things like red wine and scotch because they taste highly astringent to them. Versus me, who is actually a 'non-taster' (someone with very few taste buds that cannot taste the bitter chemical on those strips) who drinks my weight in scotch and seeks out the spiciest stuff imaginable just to get a taste of something. :)

Anyhow, onto Japanese food recommendations. I think the other posters have done a good job recommending tempura and teppenyaki.

I would also recommend shabu shabu to you. It's just nice beef cooked in a broth. Yakitori is another great thing to try: just meat on skewers. And Yakiniku is beef that you cook on your own barbecue. You can usually get wagyu and it's a fun thing to try.

One last one to consider that might be a stretch for you is okonomiyaki. It's essentially a Japanese pancake with an egg-base that may have some meat in it. You can probably request it without the sauce. The only trouble is that they often have cabbage in them, so you'd have to decide whether you were up to that or not. :)

Other than that, you'll have access everywhere to Starbucks, KFC, and convenience stores - so you're not going to starve. Go to some of the fancy department stores and wander their basements. Many of them have vast food markets in the basements with every type of food and confection imaginable. You can try lots of small things and just toss them if you don't like them. :)

Do you like the taste of:

• coffee without a lot of sugar and milk/cream?
  
• grapefruit?
  
• olives?
  
• ale beer
  
• broccoli?
  
• stout beer?
  
  ...Because you might be a supertaster.
  
  
  There are test strips (called PTC paper) that can be placed on your tongue to determine whether you're a supertaster. To some people, the strips have no taste no matter how long they leave them on their tongues. Those people have fewer taste buds and are not supertasters. To other people, the strips are bitter or extremely bitter and repulsive. Those people are near supertasters and supertasters.
  
  
  It's also possible to determine if one is a supertaster by putting blue food-coloring on your tongue and looking closely to count the taste buds per a given area.
  
  Here are some websites that explain (PDF) how to do that.
  
  
  And here is a chart from a Wall Street Journal article called "People Who Taste Too Much" that shows how supertasters taste some foods differently than others. The full article is behind a paywall.
  
  Certain ethnicities are more likely to be supertasters, such as Asian ones. Being a supertaster is genetic, so it's likely that one of your parents or grandparents is a supertaster if you are.
  
  Of the foods I listed above, all would taste bitter to a supertaster, but a stout beer would taste better than an ale beer because ale beers are more bitter.
  
  Being a supertaster is often confused with just being a picky eater (with no reason). Being a supertaster does not rule out a psychological component to food preference, it can show a very clear reason for many of your food choices.

I found these on amazon. It's not the kit we used but the same strips.

ha no doubt. I ended up pouring VG into plastic 30 ml bottles I found on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Dropping-Bottles-30ml-pack/dp/B0026K1YCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419125565&sr=8-1&keywords=30+ml+bottles


And pour mine into a syringe upside down instead of messing with a blunt tip. That was taking forever.

What about these?

Then why not get a bottle with a dropper? Like this

I'm glad I'm not alone at least, lol. Does yours also start after a while of vaping (30-90min) rather than immediately?

No unicorns, I am using the bottles in the link below.

Let see if we can find commonality, I am using:

• 1.2ml 48mg/ml Nude Nic 100% PG, (last test was with NudeArmor v3, previous tests were not)
  
• 6ml PG from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005PZBRUC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• top off to 30ml VG from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005PYSNCS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Bottles from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026K1YCK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  This is all the same ingredients I use to make regular flavored juice. The only difference is instead of adding 5.1ml of flavor and 0.8ml of PG I'm, adding 6ml of PG.

Found them on Amazon

Really? Is it like an invasive species thing? That would make sense...

Maybe he's just been good at hiding them - they're REALLY small vials, like these.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Glass Vials, 1 Dram, Pack of 12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JV6976/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HC7DDb70YFKJA

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Vials-Dram-Pack-12/dp/B002JV6976

[Amazon bottles](Glass Vials, 1 Dram, Pack of 12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JV6976/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wvGmzbKREFEWW)

Came here to recommend these

http://www.amazon.com/Glass-Vials-Dram-Pack-12/dp/B002JV6976

Your local university might have a glassware and supplies shop.

Next easiest option is amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Glass-Vials-Dram-Pack-12/dp/B002JV6976

You can pick up some of these vials from Amazon. Mix and distribute using blunt needle tip.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JV6976/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SAS Safety 66518 Raven Powder-Free Disposable Black Nitrile 6 Mil Gloves, Large, 100 Gloves by Weight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XXO60M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MGBlDbW0X7B1J

I've used the gloves you are looking at, these are way better. And usually are cheaper. But I can reuse these usually, are much easier to put on, and just tear less. Just way better gloves.

/u/jgabello I got a box of these - SAS Safety 66518 Raven Powder-Free Disposable Black Nitrile 6 Mil Gloves, Large

The stain eats though them

These are the gloves I like to use would they fit over them?

these bad boys are thick

I got the gloves I linked because of a firearms training class I took. They worked great to protect my hands from the normal scrapes and abrasion in a woodland environment while leaving me plenty of tactile feedback about what my hands were doing. They aren't warm at all though.

I have tried cotton gloves before but mostly found them annoying because they kept leaving fibers behind. Now I just use nitrile gloves if I want to prevent transfer from my hands to what I am handling.

I use these Raven gloves. They're good but when working outside in the sun your hands turn into an oven.

If you will allow me a little tangent in the direction of /r/wine, then this one (warning: Amazon link, in case you don't want it in your history) works well as a wine decanter. It's large enough for a magnum, but wide enough for aerating a 750mL bottle, which is why I prefer it for the regular sized bottles.

Outside of basic equipment like pots, fermenters and chillers, the 2 most impactful things that will make his beer better are the following:

1. The ability to control the temperature of his fermenting beer. So, if you can get a cheapo chest freezer to put in the basement (if you have a basement) and a cheap temp contoller (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E2UFGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). You can find a new chest freezer for around $150 or even less if you search craigslist.
   
   
2. Pitching the proper amount of yeast. You can get him a 2 L flask (https://www.amazon.com/PYREX-Narrow-Mouth-Erlenmeyer-Flasks/dp/B004XR5W5E/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1488125537&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=2+l+flask+erlenmeyer) and a stir plate.... I think these are cool (http://craftstirplates.com). He'd need a stir bar too.
   
   

I have a Pyrex 2L flask (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XR5W5E) looking to upgrade for larger starters. Mind if I ask what you're using for the 3L starters and if you would recommend it?

Easiest way is just to get some pH paper, just dip it in and match color on the package.

https://smile.amazon.com/Hydrion-paper-93-Dispenser-Color/dp/B005FYGXUC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pH+paper&qid=1568937558&sr=8-3

I actually bought myself one of these for when I do oil changes at my house. Allows me to safely store ~4 oil changes worth of used oil before a drop it by a recycling center.

From amazon https://www.amazon.com/5-Gallon-Plastic-Hedpack-cap/dp/B0064O8OYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495737898&sr=8-1&keywords=hedpack

Most HDPE is opaque and food grade. Most people ferment in opaque (I assume PET) food-grade buckets. etc.

https://www.amazon.com/5-Gallon-Plastic-Hedpack-cap/dp/B0064O8OYK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504699145&sr=8-3&keywords=5gal

My wife and I made the same mistake. Have a couple of these coming tomorrow with 1 day shipping - not a bad idea for peace of mind.

Of course! Here you go.

Most reviews use the container for motor oil, but it seems to be safe for brewing.

Personally I use these for waste oil at home: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064O8OYK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're cheap, easy to fit a few of in the garage and easy enough to pick up and take to a store, etc. to dispose of oil. A 55 gallon drum is a little more unwieldy to transport if you don't have a forklift or something to pick it up and move it.

> I plan to dose one "thread" of the cap every month.

Flourish Excel is only active in the water column for ~24 hours before it breaks down; it should be dosed daily or every other day. Monthly would be essentially pointless.

Also, you might find this useful! Great for easy dosing in smaller tanks; I have a couple of them.

Thanks, I bought this on amazon, it is so amazing

http://www.amazon.com/Apothecary-Products-Straight-Calibrated-Medicine/dp/B0071S5Y46?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I bought a 6 pack of amber colored, glass bottles off amazon. Only 6 bucks. These come with eye droppers, but they have no markings on them. I bought one seperately, also from amazon.

To mix them, I buy vodka from a liquor store. You can use water, but do NOT use tap water as it has chlorine that will immediately destroy LSD. I've also read that water degrades LSD more over time than alcohol, hence my choice. I use the dropper to measure out how much solution I want to use to put into the container, along with however many tabs I want to put in with it. Let it sit for a few days (swirl contents now and again) and voila.

Materials bought: http://www.amazon.com/Apothecary-Products-Straight-Calibrated-Medicine/dp/B0071S5Y46?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Amber-Glass-Bottles-Essential-Dropper/dp/B0081SRRFO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Yes, it should. 1000mg = 1gm. So knowing that you can convert an amount in milligrams to grams by dividing by 1000. So 30mg / 1000mg = 0.03g, or it would show on your scale 0.030g. It doesn't even have to be that difficult, simply knowing there are 1000mg in a gram you can see that the three zeros behind the decimal represent 999mg - 1mg. So 0.300 would be 300mg, 0.099 would be 99mg, so on. If you wanted to make the dose lower you could measure out 0.015, so 15mg, and dissolve it in 30ml of your solvent. 15mg / 30ml = 0.5mg. So that'd give you 0.5mg per 1ml.

​

Imo this is the safest way to this RC considering it's potency. Also I'm glad you responded, I realized the glass bottles I linked don't have ML markings on the droppers, and I can't seem to find of those online now. I got mine from Ceretropic a while back. So if you want to use this method and don't have a glass bottle either make sure you can find one that does have the MG marking, or you can buy this dropper seperate. Be safe! :]

That's not how it's set up, though.
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0071S5Y46/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/191-9781433-7176357

Post removed for having amazon referral links. Please ensure that nothing with "refRID" is allowed.

For example:

http://www.amazon.com/Scilogex-86143101-MS-H280-Pro-BlueSpin-Circular-Top/dp/B00AYGIFCA

I have this exact one in perfect condition I'm trying to sell.

It has worked very well for me the few times I used it to make a couple 1L (85%VG)batches.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AYGIFCA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687522&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004J4W83A&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1BCEZM98NJDQEJZV0TYN

Hmm. Your thoughts on this for steeping?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AYGIFCA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1CD90EEBCVSXZ&coliid=I30SA4FL051ZQR

Stuff you'll need (Prime links given)

$200 digital hotplate: amzn.com/B00AYGIFCA

$13.50 large flask: amzn.com/B00BERGESK

$9 rubber stopper to fit flask: amzn.com/B00ES3UE9C (can be had for $.50 at Fred Meyers or lab stores)

$17.49 for a hose to run from faucet to condenser: amzn.com/B000KI7VN6

$16.72 for the condenser: amzn.com/1450567898

$13.03 for a stand to hold the condenser: amzn.com/B00657N7TS

Misc you likely already have around:

Large pot or dish that can hold the flask

Cleaning sponge or rag

1/2 gallon vegetable oil

Total cost: $269.74 and maybe $20 for the misc stuff if you lack it

Preparation: This needs to be done in a temperature controlled room; the method uses slight variations in temperature to isolate out the individual chemicals, so any fluctuation in the room will hinder this. You will need to be near a sink with a running faucet. Be prepared for this method to take 24 plus hours.

Method:

1. Place your large pot on top of the hot plate, and place your sponge or rag in the center of the pot. This will prevent a hot spot where the flask touches the pan.
   
   
2. Fill your flask with the herb or extract you will be isolating (use extract, the results are much purer!), and place it on the sponge in the pot. Stopper the flask.
   
   
3. Attach a hose from the stopper to the top of the condenser. Attach a hose from the faucet to the coolant intake on the condenser. Attach a hose from the coolant exhaust and let it dangle in your sink.
   
   
4. Fill the pan with 1-2 inches of oil. Not enough for the flask to float, but enough for the oil level to be above the level of your herb or extract in the flask.
   
   
5. Start running cold water through the condenser, and start heating the oil. To get a list of the required temps, lookup each cannabinoid on Chemblink (or wikipedia), and look for the evaporation temp listed. Start with the lowest temp and work your way up.
   
   
6. Once the oil has reached the temp you specified, let the system run for at least 4 hours. You will begin to see resin buildup inside of the condenser. This is your isolate. Once you are satisfied that no more isolate is building up: run hot water through the condenser so the isolate melts and runs out of the condenser.
   
   
7. Go up a heat level and repeat 5-6.
   
   As I said, this really only works for THC-like cannabinoids, you won't get any terps with this method without much more expensive equipment (theyll just evaporate away), and the overall loss is great enough that its unlikely youll be able to get an isolate of CBG or THCV, since they are such a small percentage of the cannabinoids, but you should have no problem getting pure THC and even CBD, assuming your starter strain has more than a percent of it. Once you have isolates you can isomerize and do other fun stuff as well.
   
   That said, pure THC isnt fun at all, but its a great learning experience, and you can also use the same setup to distill essential oils or liquor, which is a slightly different process but uses the same equipment (though you can sub the digital hotplate for a cheaper electric range for those purposes)

Thanks. I'm placing an Amazon order for pipettes and these bottles.

Anything else you recommend picking up? I was going to use pipettes for flavorings, and the bottles for PG/VG/Nicotine.

i use these to dispense my pg/vg when mixing by weight. much much easier than messing with syringes.

http://amzn.com/B00B5138SO

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DODE48E

Salt is sodium chloride only about 40% sodium. Sodium metal is different.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/sodium-metal

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DODE48E

It's local in most cities.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/roebic-heavy-duty-crystal-drain-opener-2-lb?cm_vc=-10005

Or buy sodium on amazon?
Sodium Metal Ingots 99.8%, One Pound Packed in Individual One Ounce Packets, by Solution Materials, LLC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DODE48E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aFN7yb36CJKMK

Sodium Metal Ingots 99.8%, One Pound Packed in Individual One Ounce Packets, by Solution Materials, LLC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DODE48E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RQV7ybV89YC9W

Regarding pH testing...

I'd like to test a bunch of my stuff, but the Cleanser pH guide recommends a multicolored pH tester. The single color testers are much cheaper such as here.

Is it bad if I choose this one? If I choose it, should I not share my results on the list?

No problem.

You might look into getting a book of universal indicator strips like these to test products. You dip the paper into the product and compare the color to the color-pH legend. This gives you a ballpark pH that is good enough for this application. For ex it wont give you a pH of 5.5 but you will be able to tell it's between 5 and 6.

When you mix something with water, it can change the pH by a lot so I test the cleanser while it's on my face and lathered with water rather than straight out of the container. Tap water pH also varies a lot, which in turn affects the pH of your product if it gets mixed with tap water.

I think all hair experimenters especially no pooers should own some pH test strips. Since we're not using a product that has been regulated and safety checked (even minimally) we should be able to check at least one factor (pH). pH test strips can be bought and many big box stores as they are necessary for pool maintenance. I bought mine on Amazon.

200 test strips, great ratings, under $6: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Sz1ZCb97EPPCK

I keep some in a spray bottle and had mine last months. I check it with these. Never had a prob.

Litmus pH Test Strips, Universal Application (pH 1-14), 2 Packs of 100 Strips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_DPgAwb07HPNZW

It bares mention I always over mix as well. When kegging, I'll use about enough for 2.5 gal in 1.5. Better to be safe than frugal.

I am not a specialist, since I just begin in the AB community, but dry people lack oil and its genetic, and dehydrated people lack water.

Be sure to drink enough water each day (8 glasses at least) but for your ph concern, you can maybe just check on google of people looked for the ph of their product. Or, if you wanted a product anyway, you can buy some strips especially for that on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Litmus-Strips-Universal-Application-Packs/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479873268&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+strips

I saw there's also a digital ph tester.

I've found I don't use my GW & PP paints nearly as much as my Reaper paints (yay kickstarter), simply because of form factor. So I bought these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V2C0C7Q/

I'm slowly migrating my paints to droppers this way. When I want to use a color I have from GW / PP, I pour the bottle in. I'm sure I'm wasting some because I can't pour it all out, but I'm actually using them again. So yay!

These are the droppers I used. Used a few drops of liquitex flow aid in my base colors since they didn't flow well out of the pot

TOPWEL Excellent Quality 50pcs... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V2C0C7Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Dropper Bottles:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V2C0C7Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


If you want dropper bottles that are closer to what Vallejo uses...use these guys (you're going to be paying a premium though, so shop around): https://www.megahobby.com/products/17ml-dropper-bottle-10-pk-vallejo.html


Funnels:
https://www.amazon.com/Teenitor-Wholesale-Plastic-Chemical-Essential/dp/B01G82SKNM/ref=pd_sim_121_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01G82SKNM&pd_rd_r=TTG8P8TEMEX8EKXYE9E9&pd_rd_w=za2LA&pd_rd_wg=vBjk3&psc=1&refRID=TTG8P8TEMEX8EKXYE9E9


Agitators:
https://www.amazon.com/BRCbeads-Gemstone-Polished-Crystal-Healing/dp/B00VNLWM4W/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1501787928&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=lavastone+beads

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V2C0C7Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V2C0C7Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V2C0C7Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage


And this video inspired it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5xTDiA97O0

I've never handled ones that looked like that. I'm more familiar with this type;

http://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Supply/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463512378&sr=8-4&keywords=5a+dc+power+supply

This one seems to have good ratings. There are probably a couple dozen similar ones out there that are just as good.

https://smile.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Alligator/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541456044&sr=8-3&keywords=lab+power+supply

There are also multiple-output ones too -- it all depends on what you plan to do.

EDIT: After reading some of the reviews, do look at what they say about the way this one sets up the voltage. It might not remember the voltage setting on power-up, so you may have to set it each time before you connect it.

See that. Changed it to "power". A simpler supply? Any examples? I found this one too: https://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Supply/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1487919457&sr=1-3

Say I'm building a mini ECU simulator. I need to provide 12v @ 5A DC over OBD-II. What's the best way to do this, with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tekpower-TP3005T-Variable-Linear-Alligator/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=zg_bs_318022011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P1DKJT59MMVX11ZWARXM ?

Rigol DS1054Z

I have this one and I'm happy with it. I have another cheaper one which is good and useful, but the Rigol has much finer control than that one.

I would suggest not getting a software 'scope, no matter what you do, because it may rely upon an audio interface, and I haven't yet seen an audio interface that has DC-coupled inputs. (You need DC-coupled if you are going to analyze signals under 10-40Hz or so, because an AC-coupled interface will not represent them correctly.)

just so yall know the Rigol DS 1054Z can be hacked to be a 100MHz scope (normally 50MHz) and have extra triggers

Hah yeah, it's a Rigol DS1054Z, about the least expensive new scope you can buy.

I've found a few pages that talk about this type of DTR-only reset circuit for the ESP8266, but it's based on the Arduino schematic.

edit: also SJ2 is a solder jumper with a cuttable trace in case I need to disable the auto-reset.

You don't actually need that high of a sample rate, since it's just audio you're dealing with the highest you'll be scoping will be ~20kHz. But should you ever do anything else you'll want a higher rate. Here's what I would recommend: Rigol DS054Z

Edit: I bought the Tenma one for the same price and it is nowhere near as good as that Rigol. Seriously for the value, if you want to spend less than $500 that's the one to go with.

Popular hobbyist benchtop scopes are rigols DS1052E and newer DS1054Z. Both easily hackable for expanded features.

Seeed studio also has very decent pocket scopes, ready-made DSO models



I own the DS1052E(hacked) and DSO Nano V3(alternate firmware) personally. Both have been great, but id opt for the newer 4ch rigol if i were on the market now

They seem a bit expensive from amazon, though...

Not that they are totally worthless, but most people say a used <$100 scope is better.

The other option is save your money for something like this for $400: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012938E76/

There are firmware mods that take it to 100MHz and open up all kinds of features, like serial decode.

I've considered ultrasonic cleaners. Right now, I just use scalding hot water, then a vodka bath, then I dry them on a paper towel in front of an air purifier.

-

20oz (600ml) seems to be the standard for personal use ultrasonic cleaners. Anything larger than that is well over $100.

These are the two most popular ones on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510610533&sr=8-4&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Famili-FM8000WW-Ultrasonic-Polishing-Eyeglasses/dp/B0142G8ONC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510610511&sr=8-4&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner

Ultrasonic cleaner will fix this.

I ended up ordering this: Ultrasonic Cleaner $28.99 from Amazon. It had good reviews and a decent sized basket. I figure if it sucks Amazon is super easy to return. It will be interesting to post some before and after close ups of wire after cleaning since it's obvious there is a tiny amount of dust and probably skin getting left in the wire from handling it while making it.

Yeah, we gotta make it work, though! I'm on Amazon scouring for different wall-mountable storage options. My damn walls are gonna cave in if I keep putting shit on them lmao. But this is the cleaner I ended up getting.

Depends on where you live. I buy mine on Amazon.

You need to buy something with a cap.

Don't use the metal needle to suck up the distillate, it is too thick and won't work. Just use the open tip and clean it off when done.

https://www.kushbottles.com/packaging-concentrate-syringes

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Cartridges-Liquids-cigs-juice/dp/B0161V0024

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZB3X8S/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1

Jenny WTF!?! BLUNTS! You want blunts! And by that I mean these blunts This way you won't stab yourself, accidentally tattoo yourself, and it's probably not going to take as long to get through customs if you can't find the equivalent on canada's amazon.

Try a blunt-tipped syringe

Helpful info on the best water to use.
I use cold tap water. I also filter through a micron filter into 10ml amber glass resealable vials. I make my own bacteriostatic water by doing cold tap water with .09% benzyl alcohol. This ends up being 9.1ml of water and .09ml of benzyl alcohol. The benzyl alcohol I get comes in a 50ml resealable sterile bottle.

Here's a link to the 27 gauge 1.25" 3cc sterile needles I get. It comes as one unit with the needle already attached to the syringe. I get my vials, benzyl alcohol, needles, and alcohol wipes from medlabsupply. They have way cheaper pricing and everything you need is on there. Just make sure to get everything you need all at once to avoid paying too much for shipping. I use these 10ml syringes for making the actual solution. You can reuse these as long as you use a fresh micron filter as it will filter any potential bacteria.

You should really research how to do IM injections to avoid getting any abscesses/infections as you can lose a limb. IM is much less forgiving than IV as it's very easy for bacteria to spread in muscle tissue so infection needs to be taken much more seriously. You should be using a fresh needle every time, using alcohol wipes to wipe the top of your bottle of solution if you're using a premade solution, and wiping your injection site before you shoot it every single time.

I'd suggest making solutions since using a micron filter is much safer than a cotton ball. It makes it easier since you can just filter your entire solution at once and use only a single wheel/micron filter for one or two solutions (assuming your doing 10ml solutions). Then your whole vial is filtered and sterile and you don't have to worry about it until you go through the whole vial (1 gram of k per 10ml vial).

As far as injection sites the thigh is definitely the easiest and most forgiving. I'd say glutes are second. I just alternate between each thigh muscle personally. If I did it more often I'd do each thigh muscle and then one or both glutes (choose the one on the same side as your dominant hand if just doing one).

Here's a link that shows your how to find the site properly. Here's another one showing injection sites, how to find them, and how to do IM injections safely. This one is a good video for finding the injection for glutes and where your sciatic nerve is. Even after you know how to find the sites you should still look up images of the nerves that run through the given muscle you plan on injecting into. That way you can know exactly what you're avoiding and it'll will prevent accidentally hitting one.

https://amzn.to/2RkC7De something like this is what I have

but if you do opt for the syringe method, i recommend this

I got 10ml syrynges and 3ml syrynges each for around $8, 120ml of 12mg base for $6.39, strawberry ripe and vanilla bean ice cream both for $3.95 and from TFA.

Just a cheap diy kit I picked up off amazon. It requires soldering and when I was finished it didn't work. I had to spend about a day googling and scouring through old forum posts to find someone who had a similar issue and see how they fixed it.

Edit it was specifically this one. I got it to teach myself how to solder and even if I fucked it up, I was really only out like 20 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195ZIURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VkuyDb6BQPFJT

So, for a basic beginning to get into electronics you need:

1. A soldering iron. For troubleshooting and assembly it is important to know how to solder. There are a bunch of YouTube videos on the subject.
   
   
2. Hookup Wire. 22 AWG solid core is the best wire in my opinion for use in breadboards and general repair.
   
   
3. A Multi-Meter. Probably the most important diagnostic tool you could own. This is not the end all best meter but it is a good DIY soldering experience. You learn some soldering basics while building your own test equipment.
   
   
4. An Oscilloscope. This is a cheap beginner build it yourself scope. This is the second most important tool for a circuit designer to own. This particular kit is good enough for basics.
   
   This would be a starter kit which would help build up soldering skills and start building up knowledge.
   
   Getting Started in Electronics is a good read for a beginner to understand basics in circuit theory. I may have seen this floating around the interwebs as a PDF when Radio Shack was going down.
   
   

Here's the cheaper one: https://www.amazon.com/JYETech-Source-Digital-Oscilloscope-pre-soldered/dp/B0195ZIURK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493921911&sr=8-2&keywords=oscilloscope

Is that a decent oscilloscope? Is it this one on Amazon? If so, how do you connect to it?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0195ZIURK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499210029&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Diy+dso&dpPl=1&dpID=511YMguI%2BbL&ref=plSrch

Sounds good. I find it amusing that you played it upside down.

Is that scope one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195ZIURK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am almost done building one with the intention of using it in my eurorack setup. What does the nob do on it?

I have used the oven method one time, and glad I came back to check it out. I do not recommend using the oven, temps are unstable relatively, and the time needed to dry and the low temps needed, I can not achieve with my oven (full electric lowest temp is 140°f which is 60°c. I know it was unstable do to the filament getting too soft (recommend oven temp is 40°c, if I'm not mistaken).

So I would recommend food dehydrator, here are search results for you https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=filament+dehydrator&dwh=765d2638b300bca

My dry box has no design I just grab something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Latching-Storage-Container-FG3Q2500CLMCB/dp/B002EGNTP6/ref=sr_1_34?gclid=CjwKCAjwmZbpBRAGEiwADrmVXhoB2wgZo-4gx7z0t49bn2TK9weXoN3pqk-2uQZ89k0uOZa3kjGyxhoC-4wQAvD_BwE&hvadid=174242580843&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9005648&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10792283390857055523&hvtargid=kwd-123073099&hydadcr=15250_9600094&keywords=rubbermaid+bin&qid=1562786027&s=gateway&sr=8-34. The one I got was from family dollar, so it only costed like $7.

I used this for the feed holes https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172384

Silica is enough when you have a ton of it, those little packets are fine for vacuum sealed stuff, IMO, but you want more than the 30-50 pellets that come in the single packet. I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Indicating-Desiccants-Dehumidifier-Air-Tight/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?crid=3MHZ5INHY9XMM&keywords=silica+packets+for+moisture&qid=1562786465&s=gateway&sprefix=silica+p%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-12-spons&psc=1, take the money you save on the box (when bought from a bargain store) and put the difference into that or buy some cheaper stuff and add this to the mix https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3QHXOT7LWVYXF&keywords=humidity+gauge&qid=1562786618&s=gateway&sprefix=humidity%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A39VTLCPMNRL3Z

Again the links above are for reference to visually understand what I am mentioning. You can obviously find this stuff cheaper elsewhere. I just prefer amazon or ebay for certain things (TBH 90% of everything I buy, haven't purchased in store items, other than food, for a long time now).

I’ve heard of people using bulk desiccants such as this

https://www.amazon.com/Interteck-Packaging-Indicating-Desiccant-Industry/dp/B01G5NTCWW

It can even be re used after, and is dirt cheap.

Depends on where you live. I've stored guns in foam cases for weeks without issue but I'm in Phoenix. If you can get the shelf closed up fairly well and can keep some desiccant in there https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0zoxCbD7B7YKQ you could change it out and dry it as needed and should be good.

LabStock LB165-2 Boston Round Bottles, 2 oz. (Pack of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JL61KNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Is3Gyb0ST8PX7

Nice collection man. Interested in Aberlour 12, Amrut Fusion, Balcones Single Malt, and Laddie 16. Afraid I don't have any of your ISO's, but here's my inventory. Lemme know if you like anything in there, I could work with you a bit.

EDIT: ok, checked you out a little and I see you're pretty new to not just this, but the whole Reddit thing. Forgive me if I'm telling you anything you already know. I'm talking 2 oz sample sample swaps, we use these around here. And just so you know since you're new you would be sending yours first, then I'd send my end of the swap after recieving yours. We've all started this way. If you're who you say you are, and your collection is legit, I'd love to try me some of that Laddie 16 and Amrut! Hopefully I got something you wanna try.

No worries - I've got your Octomore poured. Check out my open inventory and let me know if you see anything else you'd like as a swap for 2 samples of the Kavalan. If not, I'm good just doing the singles. Inventory: https://redd.it/5i7zpv

As for the sample bottles, here's the stuff I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JL61KNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_ApXyyb4Z45MK5

When filling, only fill to the bottom of the neck (just below where the thread starts, and tighten that cap well. You can also use this stuff to put over the top of the cap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KDF3X6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_OqXyyb0D6A5EN

Since we're sharing our pH meters, I use this when I need to check (which isn't all that often)