Best welding & soldering according to redditors

We found 4,015 Reddit comments discussing the best welding & soldering. We ranked the 1,086 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Soldering & brazing equipment

Top Reddit comments about Welding & Soldering:

u/djlemma · 46 pointsr/CatastrophicFailure

That's not a hair dryer, that's a heat gun. They can get up over 1000F, hot enough to burn lots of things...

u/MCClapYoHandz · 43 pointsr/DIY

I have a Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station, and I highly recommend it for just about any kind of work.

The slightly more expensive digital version doesn’t solder any better, it just has buttons and a display instead of an adjustment knob.

If you’re working on tiny components, then you’ll just need to buy a few smaller tips, but there are plenty of sizes and shapes out there for Weller irons. I’ve always just bought cheaper knockoff tips, like the ones where you can get a variety pack of 10 for ~$30 on amazon. I don’t think tips are really worth spending a premium for the Weller brand, unlike the iron itself. Something like this:

I’d also recommend a good vise or workstation to hold things steady, because there’s nothing worse than trying to use crappy little helping hands or just solder on a bench top. I use a Panavise like this, just as an idea, but there are probably some decent cheaper options out there:

u/Duderocks18 · 26 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I've started to get into electronics myself, and I can say that soldering is easy, but you need the right tools for the job.
You'll need an adjustable temperature soldering iron and 1/2 milimeter iron/lead solder as the bare minimum.

I suggest grabbing some tip tinner, solder wick & vacuum, and some cheap boards to practice soldering.

This video shows how to do the actual soldering, while this video covers the tools you'll need and explains their use. These videos are made by EEV Blog and explain soldering in GREAT detail, which is how I learned to do it.

As far as making actual circuits, you have to have an idea AND parts to fulfill your idea. The Arduino UNO is a great way to program and test circuits. It's essentially a small comptuer designed to repeat whatver task you give it over and over. Alternatively, there's the Raspberry Pi, which comes in a few different models. The difference between the Pi and the Arduino is that the Pi is essentially a mini computer. You can literally hook it up to a monitor via hdmi and slam an operating system into it.

Both boards typically come in kits like this one for the Ardunio, or this one for the Raspberry Pi. The Ardunio kits with come with a lot of peripherals, like sensors and LEDs that actually do things, while you'll have to invest more with a Raspberry Pi. These kits come with detailed instructions, code you can copy and paste, and are a great way to learn how circuitry works, and is exactly what I'm doing right now. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination, I've just done a decent amount of research to find out what's what.

There are two ways to hook up circuits - temporarily and (somewhat) permanently. Breadboards are used to prototype circuits without having to solder anything, typically using these wires to link different parts of the circuits together. Soldering components to those green boards I linked earlier is what you'd do when you have your circuit up and running and want to move it to something more permanent. I say "more" permanent because you can usually de-solder stuff if you needed a component for something.

Adafruit has a decently sized library of projects you can try. They often sell stuff in kits where you get everything you need to make something -- for example, this DIY MIDI controller.

Sparkfun has a great series of articles that explain the very basics of circuits and electricity

Hopefully I've explained everything enough so that you can venture off on your own. Feel free to ask questions!

u/vedicvoyager · 25 pointsr/arduino

it's all about having the right tip, the right diameter solder, a temperature controlled pencil set to the right value, and that the tip is free of oxidation so that you always make good contact with the parts you're joining.

a breadboard may be more suitable until you get down your technique, watch some youtube videos in the meantime and practice on inexpensive parts.

edit: more tips:

it's also good to have a copper or steel mesh to clean your tip after every joint. the oldschool wet sponge doesn't do as good a job. here's a link:

A 1mm / 1.2mm tip is suitable for most everything including surface mount, the Hakko 900M-T is recommended. Don't be tempted to use a .5mm tip, the heat transfer is not as good and with techniques like drag soldering (youtube it) there's really no reason for it.

For iron temps, if you're using standard rosin core solder the sweet spot is 430 degrees. At that temp I've fooled around with sensitive surface mount parts for longer than I should have and they've all survived.

If you're shopping for a pencil that will last, look at the value models from aoyue and hakko. if you have a bigger budget, weller is the brand to own.

invest in good tools, and practice makes perfect.

u/Generic_Us3r · 25 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I can't recommend one of these enough. I've had mine for a while and makes desolder work a DREAM. And at $10 with prime shipping you literally cannot beat it.

u/Luckeyz · 22 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This thing made desoldering switches so much easier than my solder sucker.
$20 on amazon


u/Mikerinokappachino · 19 pointsr/WatchandLearn

Hair dryer gets up to around 150 degrees on the highest setting. Maybe if you have a really weird crazy one you are getting 180-200 degrees?

This is 30 dollars and can get a stream of heating piping out at 1000 degrees.

You're hair drier is not even in the same ballpark.

u/dothestew · 19 pointsr/Nexus6P

This has been brought up pretty often on this subreddit, and I feel like there is a division between two main theories on the problem:

  • It's a software glitch / bad reporting / excessive app or system use.
  • It's a hardware malfunction.

    I was in the same situation (very similar screenshot) and was told by a Google representative after a few e-mails back and forth that I was out of my warranty period. I finally got fed up with it enough that I bought a new battery and replaced it a few days ago. As others who have also replaced their batteries have said, it truly is like having a brand new phone. I highly recommend it, though the process is a pain in the ass. Being concerned anytime the phone is below 60% battery is no way to live, especially when it drops to that point so quickly after being taken off charge.

    Battery - $8.99 Amazon Prime; comes with opening tools but does not include a precision knife.

    Replacement back glass camera cover - $7.99 Amazon Prime; because the battery did not come with precision knives and I am not a patient man, so I clearly broke the glass.

    Precision knife - $3.58 add-on item; plan ahead. Don't be like me.

    Heat gun - $19.97 Amazon Prime; you can use a hair dryer but this is a ton easier.


    If you decide to go ahead with it, best of luck.
u/stratoscope · 18 pointsr/amateurradio

You may have heard the old saying:

>The road to success is through experience.
>The road to experience is through failure.

It sounds like you have already achieved some failure, so this means you are well on your way on the road to success!

Let me add another old saying that I just made up:

>Good technique may overcome a bad soldering iron.
>A great soldering iron will never overcome bad technique.

You didn't mention what kind of iron and what kind of solder you are using now. But if you are getting cold joints, that is more likely a sign of bad technique rather than the wrong iron.

Cold joints happen when you heat the solder instead of heating the work material. The hot solder hits the cold metal and freezes in place instead of flowing onto the hot metal.

You need to heat the work material itself first. If it's a through-hole component, then after you turn the board upside down, touch the iron to both the component's wire lead and the board's pad. Only after both of those heat up do you apply the rosin core solder to melt onto and into them. Then you will have a beautiful shiny solder joint.

This does take some finesse and attention to timing. So I would do this Heathkit style. The Heathkits I bought when I was a teenager always came with clear instructions on how to solder, and most importantly, some extra pieces to practice with. I learned to get the technique down on those before tackling the kit itself. So practice on scrap material until you have it down.

Of course a good iron and good solder will help. If you're using lead-free solder, I might suggest a traditional lead-tin solder instead, as it is easier to work with.

For an iron, you didn't mention what you're using now, or what your budget might be. If something around $100 works for you, you can't go wrong with the Hakko FX888D. You might want some extra tips of various sizes too.

Desoldering is an art to itself. Do you have some desoldering braid? I used to use the "soldapullit" suction pumps and similar things, but the braid always gave me better results. It comes in different widths so you can pick one that fits the work you're doing.

I hope these notes are helpful. Holler back with any questions, and happy soldering!

u/frozenbobo · 16 pointsr/AskElectronics

If you want me to make it easy for you, just buy this:

If that's too much, there are maybe some other options, but that is an iron he will likely never need to replace. You can look for other products from Hakko or Weller. Adjustable temperature and availability of multiple tips are both importent features.

The irons available at RadioShack are mostly crappy, so I wouldn't recommend them.

u/lousy_at_handles · 16 pointsr/gaming

Buy this and don't look back.

Weller makes pretty decent stuff for the most part.

u/ccai · 14 pointsr/funny

Get a decent iron/station with temperature control, something like this isn't too expensive and not bad overall, go for the bigger name brands if you have the cash like Weller or Hakko. You can get a great station, some flux, some solder, solder sucker and preferably a brass ball instead of a wet sponge to clean off the tip of your iron for less than $150. You can get a soldering kit with a protype board and components and solder that together to practice or if you want a more practical experience with actual components - then go to your nearest thrift store and buy the cheapest shittiest chinese electronic gizmo you can find, or stuff like digital alarm clocks and typically there's a PBC board inside with tons of little parts inside that have pretty loose soldering tolerances. Or even check your garage/attic/basement for some old gizmo you haven't seen nor touched in decades. You can desolder the capacitors, resistors, LEDs, switches, wires and etc. Then after you remove it, solder them back in place.

That's how I learned, but you can also look on youtube to help you learn the right techniques.

u/downthecakehole · 14 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Blazer Big Shot GT 8000

I got one of those and never looked back. Went through several of those shitty creme brûlée torches people mention. This one has been lasting me for months and months of constant use with no signs of breaking down anytime soon. Make sure not to skimp on butane either. If you're gonna spend 9.99 on a torch, you're going to get what you pay for: crap.

Video for the torch, if anyone is interested

Edit: Formatting

u/thrilleratplay · 14 pointsr/thinkpad

I know. That was the first thing I thought. I bought two kits for my x220 and x230, I screwed up royally the first attempt and wound up needing to use the second set of items.

Before you start, the equipment you will need:

  • a precision screwdriver kit. This is what I use
  • Exacto knife
  • Dremel/pliers/sandpaper to make room for the LCD.
  • canned air to clean up the plastic and metal shavings from dremel/pliers/sandpaper
  • as /u/Bredius88 already mentioned, flux. I used liquid flux. If you use liquid flux you will also need rubbing alcohol and qtips to clean up.
  • desolder pump
  • magnifying lens of some sort. I used this which was good enough and could also keep my glasses on.
  • kapton tape. (1/4" width or less)
  • If it has been a decade since you last soldered or have shaky hands, or both in my case, I strongly suggest buying very thin solder and, if possible, a quality soldering iron like a Hakko FX888D. These were suggested by the EEVblog soldering tutorial made the second time around far easier.

    A few words of "wisdom"

  • Take your time and do not rush. It is incredibly easy to miss things in the installation guide.
  • DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING. If the LCD screen does not lay flush with the screw holes or the bezel is not clipping, you need to remove more material from the case/bezel
  • Do not be stingy with the flux
  • Do not over heat your soldering iron
  • The sense wire looks like it is copper, but that is just the film on it. Gently scrape it with the exacto knife to reveal the wire in side. It will not solder with this film on it
  • For each step, tape the piece in place before soldering then gently remove the tape. This was the only way I could solder the sense wire because it is so thin and light
  • The eDP cable is very fragile. Do not keep plugging/unplugging it. If you do need ot unplug it (like after testing), only unplug the side from the board and keep pressure on the board when doing so as not to wreak your solder joints
  • When everything has been soldered in place, test it before putting everything back together

    Also, on the V5, I used the old installation guide and the big difference is that the power is connected to the far left under the fuse marked "P". In the picture your finger is kind of covering it.

    EDIT: Anyone trying to justify spending ~$125US on a good soldering iron and solder just remember that replacing the motherboard will cost you about the same and will not be as useful a decade from now.
u/crb3 · 14 pointsr/diypedals

Kester #44 63/37 0.031" diam solder ...The link is to a 1-pound spool; I think there are offerings of a few ounces in there too. I know there's a link to a 1-oz dispenser at the bottom of the page.

I've been using this stuff for decades, since I was first introduced to it as a production solderer. Nothing else comes close, in my opinion.

Mouser carries it too, but the Amazon link is cheaper.

u/wheel82 · 14 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

TLDR: No instructions came with the DIY kit, which is probably fine for the most part, but I had no idea wtf i was doing, so I wanted to post some info in case others were running into the same lack of how-to information when it came to simple stuff like "which wires do I solder to the usb-a/usb-c/aviator (gx16-4) connector?" or even "How to fish the cable through the paracord/techflex sleeving?" Also to see if any assumptions i made were wrong before I plug this into the Massdrop ALT keyboard that's en route.


Prior to attemping this, I haven't done anything electrical related anything, didn't own any of the tools other than a set of wire cutters and I basically didn't know what search terms to even search for.. so keep that in mind when reading. Also, ZapCables weren't taking orders when I wanted to make an order, so I figured "how hard could it be for a newb?" Wrong.


Things I still don't know:

- [solved: it works!] I'm not sure if my cable actually works because I don't own any USB-C devices other than a power bank that has a USB-C connection. I plugged it in to an ac adapter connected to the wall then connected it to the power bank and it turned on AND the cable didn't melt (hooray), so I assume power is working.

- I have no idea how to test if the rest of it works. I realized after I pieced this all together I probably could have tested the connections somehow, but I really don't want to dismantle this thing now. I'm planning to just plug it in to the ALT when it arrives and do a rain dance in the hopes that everything works.


Assembly Steps


Step 1: I bought a cheap soldering kit off of amazon ( and hoped for the best.


Step 2: Stripping the usb cable and incredibly tiny wires inside

- Wire Cutters/wire stripping tool: this worked fine for the USB cable casing, but not for the wires inside. For the inner wires, it only worked 50% of the time because I couldn't get the feel right and kept cutting the strands of the wires when peeling them off. I bought a wire stripping tool and the one i got didn't work as the wires were too small. SIGH.


- Soldering iron: i saw some people just melt the casing off, and this kind of worked, but because the already tiny ass wires were stranded (had even more impossibly thin wires inside), the plastic melted between the strands and it took just as long to clean it off before tinning the wire.


- What worked for me: I ended up figuring out I could use the soldering iron to melt the plastic away to create a notch where I wanted to start stripping the wire away. Once I melted around the wire, I used my fingers and pulled the plastic off, and the underlying strands of wire were clean and in tact.


Step 3: Tinning the stripped wires

- What worked for me: I set the soldering heat on the soldering iron to be around 350deg or a little less as I found any higher and the solder would burn and disappear before I could get it on the wires. I took the tweezers and twisted the strands so they would not come apart when applying heat. Then I heated up the twisted wire with the soldering iron and put the solder on it and moved it all around. Seemed to work.


Step 4: Soldering tinned wires to the connector USB-A connector

- I have no idea if I did this correctly. Even though the packaging for USB-A had the wires in order GND, D+, D- and VCC marked, it wasn't clear to me which orientation to have the connector so that the label made sense. I assumed if your wires are on the left, and the connector is on the right, then the top connection point on the USB-A connector was GND. The connection points weren't labeled sooooo I hoped for the best. Once that was done, i assembled the rest of the connector's metal casing. To solder, I added heat to the tinned wire and it connected. I was paranoid about having the solder spread to the other connection points (the USB-C connector has no barriers unlike the A) so i didn't add extra on top.


Step 5: Fishing the cable through the paracord/TechFlex

- There's some videos of how to do this for the paracord on youtube, but I couldn't find a way to hack it and make it faster, so i pushed it through one aggravating inch at at time. The Techflex was easy because.. well it can flex.


Step 6: Soldering the male side of the Aviator/GX16-4 to your USB cable

- I don't think it matters if you choose male or female part of the connector. I chose the male side because it was easiest to detach the cover (just unscrew it) and expose the solder points. First I threaded the cable through the heat shrink to the USB-A connector. You don't have to do this but I found not all of the heat shrink pieces I got could fit over the connector. Next, I threaded the USB-Cable with the paracord/techflex through cover that was just unscrewed and left it on the cable. Looking at the male GX16-4 solder points, they are labeled 1-4, and I chose the soldering points 1:GND, 2:D+, 3:D-, 4:VCC. You'll do the same for the female connector.


Special note: I emailed ZapCables because I was initially confused AF when I saw the GX16 connector and had no idea what to do. John promptly replied with the tip about the labels. Thanks John! He also mentioned they might be making their own tutorial which I think they should do because I found this hard given I don't have any experience doing this.


When the soldering was done, I connected the GX16-4 cover back to the male connector. Be sure not to twist the cable while you're re-attaching. I ended up tearing the wires off from over-twisting and proceeded to die inside when I realized I had to do it all over.


At this point, you have half the cable and it's pretty much the same for the other half EXCEPT that for the female GX16-4 cable, detaching the cover to expose the solder points requires you have an small screw driver to unscrew yet another miniscule screw. The set of tiny screw drivers I use for my glasses/computers was not small enough, I was able to find one that worked in a random set i had in the garage. The size was not marked, so I have no idea what to tell you guys :( If you manage to get it off, twise the cover 1/4 rotation to the left and then pull.


Step 7: Do steps 2-6 for the other side of the cable + female GX16-4 connector


If you decide to go this route and you also have no idea what you're doing, I suggest you definitely order a little more length for the usb cable/paracord/techflex. I got a 4ft cable, and in the end, with connectors on and all, i'm 3-4 inches short of 4ft because of all the mistakes I made.


I hope this helps someone who wants a nice cable but can't be bothered to wait.. but can be bothered to be frustrated by the assembly process.


*Edit: grammar/spelling*


EDIT: Update on the cable, some of the parts that i soldered between the cable did not have a good connection, bending the wire ever so slightly would cause the keyboard to connect/disconnect, so i probably have to redo the connections to the male/female gx16-4 connectors.


EDIT2: After a quick email to ZapCables, John mentioned that i had too much exposed wire that was touching (near solder points) and suggested I resolder with less exposed wire to prevent this from happening. Rather than do that and figure out how to desolder, I took some electrical tape and wrapped any exposed wire connecting at the solder points to the USB-A/USB-C/GX16-4 connector. Happy to say, it's all working and I am now successfully using this cable. 5/5 for ZapCables and John for help.

u/evrydayzawrkday · 13 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

So I got into the first batch on massdrop for the WhiteFox by Matt3o. Price wasn't too bad, picked the Aria with Cherry MX browns, came out to 189 shipped I believe (I can look at massdrop, but I don't recall if that included shipping or not). I will say that this wasn't planned, or at least I didn't think it was planned. I thought I got the assembled version, but I actually got the kit. I contacted massdrop about it, who was very kind but simply told me what I ordered and provided the receipt. Yup, I fucked up... or did I?

For those who are like me, decent with there hands but never did this before don't sweat it. It isn't that hard, but here are a few tips (esp if you have a WhiteFox you need to assemble):

  • Google. Matt3o had a great post on this with some videos / catchy music. There is also a video series from Input Club.
  • Get a decent iron. I got the Weller WLC100 from Amazon, cost me 40 bucks with a thing of .3mm rosin core solder. I think the steel wool cleaner was another 5 bucks since I didn't trust a 500F tip against a sponge :)
  • If you get the Weller WLC100, or any Iron that has a tip that looks like a screw driver get a chizzel tip. It was a pain in the ass to do the LED with that flat tip. I would recommend also a steel wool cleaner, not required but made cleaning the tip while the iron was hot easy as hell.

    Soldering the switches was a breeze. Did I fuck up a few solders? Sure, but the switch works :) Did I fuck up a few of the LED and had to desolder / resolder them, fuck ya lol. The LED solder pads are fucking tiny. That is all I will have to say. My only tip would be take your time, and when you put the LED in make sure you bent the leads a bit to make sure they don't fall through (now you know why I had to desolder and resolder).

    Besides that from unboxing to testing fully on my wife's laptop (ill get into that below, which is kinda funny) took me a little under 3 hours.. Not bad for a first time, and the feeling that I actually built something I will use for years to come is amazing. The keyboard overall is a joy to type on, and I love it.

    The only non-keyboard related issue I had was with the LED actually. So I did the top row of LEDs, and then plugged it into my machine. Machine recognized the keyboard like it did with all the switch tests I did as I soldered them, the LED would turn on and then off about two seconds later. I panicked, checked the solder joints and then searched the internet. I got nowhere, so I emailed Mat3o. Since it was late, I went to my wife's laptop downstairs (mine is in the truck, and I am too lazy to undo the alarm to go outside and get it) and it worked fine. Everything worked fine. This computer will be formatted tomorrow since there is a number of issues I found with system files, thank you Windows 10 updates /s (I looked at the windows updates logs to when the issue started - or issues, and it was after an update which ended up corrupting a few system DLL).


  • Build my first mechanical keyboard
  • Hate soldering LED(s), will never do it again
  • Love the WhiteFox Aria


    Does anyone understand how the hell you update the firmware?

    Edit #2

    Along with updating the firmware, a manual or at least tell me which controller is in here :)

    Super Important Edit #3

    Flash your firmware! /u/mister-la gave me a great article here but I wanted to add that for some reason my board came with some firmware issues which caused the LED issue. It was only happening on Windows 10 for whatever reason, and what would happen is the keyboard would be recognized by Windows and LED would turn on, along with do the little "device plugged in" noise. About 2-3 seconds later the keyboard would still function but the LED would not work, and then do the "device disconnected" chime. I did some Google FU along with searching the input club and realized back in late May they released a new firmware to solve a ton of USB bugs for the KLL board, which is what the WhiteFox runs.

    I ended up following the article above except the GUI tool ended up crashing. What I did was take a blank Aria firmware from, and flashing it with dfu-util.exe. It is really simple:

  1. Download your firmware into a separate folder if you want, mine is C:\WhiteFox\Firmware

  2. Download the KII-DFU into a separate folder. Mine is under C:\WhiteFox\KII-DFU

  3. Open a command prompt as an admin (winkey + X, command prompt with admin) and then change directory to your KII-DFU folder (CD C:\WhiteFox\KII-DFU)

  4. Connect a separate keyboard, and then on the back of your whitefox click the little button in the back of the keyboard (there is a hole in the frame so you can get to it with a small allen key). Hold it down until the keyboard disconnects from Windows and then release the button. It should be orange.

  5. Run the following command, which will flash the firmware and then reboot the keyboard: KII-DFU.exe -D C:\WhiteFox\Firmware\kiibohd.dfu.bin

    That is what fixed my keyboard, and now it works wonderfully. I think its pretty awesome how the configurator tool on Input Club allows you to remap a bunch of the keys with ease, and then using the command line flashing is a breeze.


u/growamustache · 13 pointsr/ECE

Yeah if you're soldering anything significant its worth your time and money. Wellers are popular where I work as a small desk station
Weller WES51

Don't bother with a $20 iron imo

u/Bud2Budder · 13 pointsr/chinaglass

For someone who buys a lot of cheap shit, I wouldn't cheap out on a torch. Get the GT8000 Bigshot for only 41$ and you won't have to worry about a shitty flame and it breaking. This thing is the most recommending torch for a reason.

u/Farteous · 12 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

So last weekend my father decided he needed a hand replacing the carpet in his basement with hardwood, so I ended up spending a few hours scraping up crappy vinyl tiles. For the most part three decades of apathy towards maintenance meant that they came up relatively easily, but there were a couple of patches of relatively recent tiles stuck down with better adhesive. After 40 minutes spent peeling up about a square foot with a mallet and a putty scraper he wandered by with one of these (though his is a 1700 watt model, and gets up to about 1400 Fahrenheit). 30 seconds of aiming it at the edge of a tile and the glue softened enough to pry up several inches. A minute and the tile itself softens up. Point it at the wall from a distance of 18 inches or less and the paint begins to look scorched in moments. Within half an hour we finished the rest of the floor.

Not really big enough to make significant inroads into a manhole, but I suspect they make scaled-up versions.

u/LesZedCB · 11 pointsr/Multicopter

Hakko 888D Soldering Iron. With this thing, soldering is actually fun. I look around just for things to solder with this baby.

EDIT: for reasons why it's great:

  • temperature controlled: always heat your solder to just the right temp. Makes for stronger joints and you don't end up burning up all your flux. It also means when metal sucks out the heat, the controller gives it a boost so it stays hot.

  • heats up in about 15 seconds.

  • digital readout of current temp

  • wire is very flexible. It isn't a nuisance when trying to make fine adjustments.

  • pencil is very thin and easy to grip, but it doesn't get hot because the heating element is at the tip.
u/KosherBeefCake · 11 pointsr/AskElectronics

I’d recommend you get a soldering station instead; something similar to this: Soldering station

u/amynoacid · 11 pointsr/DIY

You can get okay ones for $50-100. Are you looking for a soldering station or just a soldering pencil/gun?
I would recommend a wall unit, as opposed to a butane unit, because butane ones are mainly for people soldering in the field. They are nice and portable, but you have more wall outlets than butane canisters in your place, so it's easier


Weller and Hakko are great brands, their tips are a bit pricey too, but trust me, they last a lot longer than the cheap irons and their cheap tips.
You can't go wrong with any of these:

Feel free to ask me other questions.

u/TheSuperSamoanDiet · 10 pointsr/CanadianMOMs

Depends on your budget. I use the Big Shot Blazer currently and its the best torch I’ve ever owned. You could get something cheaper though and still get the job done

u/Klathmon · 10 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you really want to learn, pick up a small kit like this, like 7 to 10 switches, and like 10 of any kind of keycap, and finally grab a soldering iron.

All that is around $50 total, and places like have really detailed guides on how to assemble their PCBs. It's really not hard once you understand what to get, and once you've built even a small macro pad like that, you'll be able to build even hand wired keyboards no problem. They're really simple once you learn the basics! It's pretty much just legos, but really tiny and using a hot stick.

u/_zsh · 10 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The Engineer SS-02 changed my life.

u/Raider1284 · 10 pointsr/Multicopter

Grab a good hakko or weller soldering station and you should be set for years! They make pretty damn good clones of these as well for much cheaper if you want to save a few bucks.

u/Mastrofski · 9 pointsr/AskElectronics

The Hakko FX-888D. It's pushing your budget a little bit(you're going to want to get new tips at some point), but I've used them in personal, educational, and professional environments. Really a solid iron for what you pay.

u/ThunderFalcon_3000 · 9 pointsr/AskElectronics

This Weller has served me well. Although it takes some getting used to. Just check out some vids on proper operation.

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

u/robbsc · 9 pointsr/electronics

In my experience, radio shack soldering iron tips go bad in a single use (of soldering a PCB's worth of components). No matter how much you try to tin the damn things, they oxidize.

I don't know anything about hakko, but I love my Weller.

u/a1blank · 9 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you plan on using it for anything more than the ErgoDox, make sure you get one that'll last. One of the most important things is that the tip is cheap to replace. I got a Radio Shack one for $25 when I first started with electronics and I seriously regret it. Turns out that when the tip died after a couple of months, it would have been cheaper to just get a new iron rather than replacing the tip.

I replaced the Radio Shack iron with this Weller model. The tips are about $5, so replacement and getting alternative tips is quite affordable. Ebay is a good source.

I found a few threads in /r/AskElectronics and /r/Electronics. This iron is one that they recommended, and one I've seen before myself (see this thread). The OP in this thread had a much higher budget, and there were a bunch of Hakkos recommended. Weller and Hakko are generally quite good brands.

As an additional piece of information, since we'll have to solder surface mount components (the resistor, I think), you may find this video guide to be useful. Our components should be much larger, but still helpful to see the techniques. Here's a comic about more general soldering.

u/jesspete · 9 pointsr/shittyadvice
u/SemenInYourStool · 9 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

+1 on the big shot. This has been my favorite torch, and not having to hold a button the whole time I'm heating my rig has been awesome. Well worth it.

u/capitantortuga · 8 pointsr/electronics

If youre thinking of buying that, dont waste your money, its a POS. I would recommend this station, good quality brand, relatively cheap and has some heat settings, doesnt give temperature, but its better than no control at all. Also the tips are pretty easily found.

u/ryzic · 8 pointsr/electronics
u/edgan · 8 pointsr/Quadcopter

I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.

For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.

Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.

Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.

Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:

Youtube video exampling how to solder them:

Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research.

To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.

Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.

Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.

Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.

Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.

Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.

Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.

A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.

Battery charger for 4S batteries:

XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:

A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.

A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.

Voltage monitor:

3S balance cable extension:

4S balance cable extension:

Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.

Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.

Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.

Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.

Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.

Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.

ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.

Atmel socket flashing tool:

Atmel USB programmer:

USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.

USB cable for simulators:

Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:

Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.

u/Smokadabowla · 8 pointsr/Dabs
been using mine many times a day for almost 2 years.

u/Genital-Jamboree · 8 pointsr/trees

I believe it's a Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane torch. The pic doesn't have any markings on it but it looks very similar to the Big Shot. You can buy it on Amazon here for $100. Torch works very well and is refillable with butane gas.

u/tazemanian-devil · 8 pointsr/exjw

You're going to need the following two items if you watch these.

Yeah, yer gonna want to heat that poker up real good with that there torch so you can effectively poke your eyes out.

u/yesiamthatman · 8 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Awesome solder sucker. I swear by that thing!

u/lashek · 8 pointsr/consolerepair

Regardless of how it looks, the only important thing is that it functions. Congrats for that. I would recommend keeping a cheat sheet with the old cap values since the SMD caps don't really tell you their values (in case they ever go bad) :)

The only real suggestion I can make is:

Those pointed bits of solder would get fixed if you put a dab of flux on the blob and touch it with the iron. :D

That's my only critique.

I use this:

u/Koobaczech · 8 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yes works great with leds!

Tenma 21-8240 Vacuum Desoldering Iron

u/toughduck53 · 8 pointsr/guitarpedals

a fuzz face is one of the simplest circuits out there. Its just a darlington pair of transistors with an emiter feedback adjustable bias on Q1.

Its literally just 11 parts.

A fuzz face is also one of those pedals where you can make an identical pedal to those 800$+ nkt275 sunface for less than 50$, with even some of the more "mystic-magic-mojo-bullshit" transistors its still going to be dead cheap to build.

Also, heres a little copy paste i made for people looking to start soldering and what tools you should pick up, and what you dont need.

Yes that will work absolutely fine, but as someone who does a lot of soldering there are a few other things I would say.

if you don't plan on doing much soldering in the future and it's more of a one time thing, there's really no reason to get anything bore expensive than this. I spend easily 60 hours of solid soldering on the earlier version of this (same thing just without the leds) and I only ever replaced it because the tips were getting worn out (although you can replace the tips for cheap) and because I thought I deserved a more solid iron considering how much soldering I do.

if you do plan on doing lots of soldering in the future then I would recommend getting something other than a weller, they're honestly just one of those things that for years have been the industry standard but honestly have gone down hill. I've used a dozen different wellers, some old some new, some cheap some costing 300$ but none of them are really good. I, along with almost everyone in electronic repair industry like Luis Rossmann recommend a brang called hakko. I use atd absolutely love the hakko fx888d. It's really honestly just magic. It heats up to 700+ in under 30 seconds, with a live temperature readout (my old weller would take close to 15 minutes), atd the tips are really just magic, they just don't get corroded at all like every other brand I've used.

It's also worth mentioning for anyone new to soldering that the type of solder used makes a world of difference. What your going to want in rosin core, leaded solder (preferably 63/37 but 60/40 will work too). You want rosin core because it makes it a ton easier to not have to worry about flux, atd unless your doing really tiny electronic you won't need flux beyond the rosin core. You want leaded solder for a few reasons. First off, it melts at a way lower temperature (leaded solder melts at about 360f ish where lead free is closer to 460-480f, but saying that that's not at all the temps you wound use to actually solder at, it ranges from 400 - 700f depending on the application ). Leaded also has a way better surface tension, and melts more evenly, all this really just adds up to making it 100 times easier to work with, ESPECIALLY if you need to desolder anything.

u/CantFoolTheCity · 8 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I bought this one about a year and a half ago and don't think I'll ever need another one. Going from cheap soldering irons to this one was unbelievable.

u/1ManGnarmy · 7 pointsr/audioengineering

Practice is everything. I could barely solder a cable but decided I wanted to start building up a few preamps from kits.

A solid, variable temp iron like this Hakko, some mounted alligator clamps and a magnifier are all solid investments.

But most importantly, practice. Go find some old battery operated toys or keyboards and practice desoldering and resoldering on a pcb is a great way to learn to steady your hand. If you want to learn some basics of circuit design, maybe tackle a GroupDIY project like a G-SSL comp or similar (plus you'll have a bomb-ass compressor).

u/kewee_ · 7 pointsr/ECE

This or that

Both are excellent entry-level products with proven track-record and replacement parts are common and cheap. They will have a hard time melting pure tin solder however, but you must be masochistic to use that crap IMO. Just stick to eutectic solder.

u/david4500 · 7 pointsr/OpenPV

Some videos on soldering:

In addition to the videos from /u/analog-dan, you can also watch the videos from /u/advicevice


Solder I'd recommend:

Additional paste flux:

Do you have a soldering station/iron? If so which one, if not would recommend the following:

Need anything else just ask

u/hansmoman · 7 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like): Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip Leaded solder Brushes Side cutters Flux Solder Wick KimWipes Isopropyl Alcohol Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly) Jewelers loupe Tweezers Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)

Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.

Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!

u/R3d-Tw0 · 7 pointsr/cigars

A friend turned me on to these:

I use it as a backup/don't-care-if-I-lose-it lighter.

u/amaraNT2oo2 · 7 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

u/Jetcar · 7 pointsr/DIY_tech

It's better to have one that has a controllable temperature setting. But then you have to know when to use what temperature. And they are expensive, but usually comes with a stand and sponge.

If you get a cheap one you will be fine while learning how to solder. The tips are really bad quality and doesn't heat evenly all the way around and you should have some sandpaper close to give it a good scrubbing between uses.

Sorry, on mobile and I don't know how to edit the links without the editor help...

u/abeardedblacksmith · 7 pointsr/guns

If you feel like you absolutely have to have it stippled, get this $7 soldering iron, watch a YouTube video, and do it yourself.

u/milsman2 · 7 pointsr/Music

There are only handful of soldering irons that are the tried and true. Never buy from Radio Shack.

That bad boy will last you your whole lifetime and I've had a NASA engineer swear by it as it is what he uses at home.

u/Cardagain · 7 pointsr/electronics

This is what we have around the house/lab. It works well, and offers variable heat control, which is handy. It comes with tips that are pre-tinned, which makes it much easier to keep them tinned.

I'm sure you've thought of it, but just in case, make sure your solder is lead-free. Also, the lower temp stuff works better for PCB work. If you do get the Weller iron I linked to, 50% heat should be more than enough for PCBs.

u/Highfro · 7 pointsr/Gameboy

This one is probably the cheapest one I'd recommend

u/Se7enLC · 7 pointsr/arduino

I've gone through about a half a dozen of the $5-$15 radio shack irons before I finally decided to spend the money on a nice one. I had no idea what I was missing!

There are a few types. The cheapest one is just a hot pencil. You plug it in and it gets hot. It's not adjustable at all - it just gets up to whatever level of power it draws, regardless of the work it's doing. Typically they cycle between not-hot-enough and way-too-hot for whatever the job is. :-)

The second-cheapest kind is the same thing, but with a little selector switch, so you can switch between low and high. I think one of mine was 5W/15W. Same as before - it's a power level, not a temperature.

Third type is the same thing, but with more adjustments. You can vary the heat more accurately, but it's still only by power level, not actual temperature.

The good kind is the kind that measures its own temperature and tries to maintain it. You can turn the dial to the temperature you want, and no matter what the work is, it will heat up as needed to maintain that temperature.

I have the WESD51 (Digital display, adjustable temperature). It was expensive, but I got a good deal on it (only $10 or so more than the analog version). I was really sold on the temperature controls, and it makes a huge difference.

You'll have to carefully read specs to see if "Adjustable" means adjustable POWER or adjustable TEMPERATURE. Some irons will even say that they are adjustable temperature, but really they are just a hot-cold knob that adjusts power.

I shouldn't recommend a specific iron, since the only ones I've used are the terrible $5 ones and the WESD51, but I've heard good things about the WCL100. It seems to have decent reviews. If you can't justify the $80+ for a temperature-controlled iron like the WES51 or WESD51, look into this one, since it's only $40.

EDIT: I take that back! I should have listened to myself and NOT recommended it. As soon as I read the reviews I discovered that you can get a constant-temperature iron for around the same price! Something like This 850F or this 750F. In short - do your research! Temperature controlled is key!

ANOTHER EDIT: The work I'm doing is generally through-hole components and similar small electronics. I leave the temperature dial at around 700F most of the time. So if $80 for a true adjustable-temperature soldering station is too much to swallow, save money by getting a constant-temperature iron at the temperature you want, instead of getting a shitty adjustable-wattage iron.

u/eclipse75 · 7 pointsr/amateurradio

My ideas:

u/SomeKindOfOctopus · 7 pointsr/electronics

I have this one and it's served me well for the last few years. There's also an analog version. The digital ones only read in Celsius, if that bothers you. They definitely aren't as nice as a Hakko or a Weller, but it has never let me down.

As far as the fumes go, it isn't the lead that's the problem, it's the flux inside the solder. Lead doesn't vaporize until ~1700C, which your iron is never going to reach. I mention this so you know that lead free solder doesn't solve the problem.

You should either solder in a well ventilated area, or use a fume extractor. Commercial fume extractors are expensive, and you can make your own with fan and a carbon filter (you can get them for normal air filters and cut to size).

u/nafs_asp · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

that one is great. I've desoldered complete boards with it.

u/clown_world_ · 6 pointsr/synthesizers

There are plenty of youtubes that give good instruction, it's very simple to get started. Most common mistake people new to it make is thinking about it like the solder tip is used to paint the solder on the components, when it is just used to heat up the components so the solder will flow into/onto them once they get up to heat. Solder will flow to areas above its melting temp, so you heat the components with the tip, and dab the solder wire at the junction of the components, the solder will flow to these hot areas, then you just want enough heat in the area so when it cools, it doesn't cool too unevenly which can lead to cold solder joints, but you don't want enough heat that you damage the components. For most applications I usually touch the tip to the area for 1-3 seconds, dab the solder on with the tip still on the area, remove the solder and then let the iron sit for another second (with a 40 watt iron set at about 85%). Other times you will require more time as the component will act like a heat sink and take longer to bring up to the temp where solder will melt and adhere, like the back of potentiometers for grounds or amp chassis for grounds. For removing solder, use some Chemtronics solder wick, which is thinly braided wire which you can heat on the component and the solder will run up into the wick through capillary action.
This is probably the most widely used soldering station, it's relatively inexpensive and fine for most applications, I've built multiple tube amps, done a lot of tube amp maintenance, and built around 50 or so guitar pedals with it.

u/checkitoutmyfriend · 6 pointsr/Multicopter

Around $100 would be a good start. I bought this one. But there is it's non-digital brother. It holds temp very well, (dial it right in with the digital display) even when soldering large battery connectors. Changes temps very quickly. It does everything I use it for. This hobby, fixing TVs, stereos and other electronics. Not quite a production station but it would hold up well in small runs.

Do get an assortment of tips. There are many types, pin point, various width flat heads, etc. What you need will depend on what you are soldering.

Than just take care of the tips. Always clean and tin them when done.

There are many brands out there. Weller has been around for a long time. This station just works for me.

u/jonny360 · 6 pointsr/Multicopter

I have this Weller WES51 and its been just great for me. not sure what could be better on a more expensive setup. Maybe more accurate temps or faster warm up? This seems completely capable for what im doing with it though.

I just use a lighter for all my heat shrinking. Is a heat gun much better than a simple lighter?

u/necrolop · 6 pointsr/arduino

If you want a station, there really are two which are the standard:

  1. Weller WES51

  2. Hakko FX 888

    If you want just an Iron I would get a Weller Wp25, 30, or 35 depending on how hot you desire.

    The radioshack Pro Line actually looks quite nice at $30(on sale for $20 this week)

    Very good deal and nice quality, downside being they only sell one type of tip and it doesnt come in different wattages.
u/shadowdude777 · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

That's waaaaay overkill in my opinion. Don't spend that much on something you're gonna use once a year or something. I treated myself because I solder several times a month and got this guy.

And if you plan to only do kits where you only have to solder switches, you can literally do that with a $5 RadioShack iron (my friend did that for his MiniVan). Switches are pretty much the single easiest thing to solder. They're huge and very heat-resistant. If you want to do, for example, surface-mount diodes, you might want something heat-controllable, but any junk will do for switches.

BUT GET GOOD SOLDER. In particular, most stores sell 60/40 (60% lead, 40% tin) solder. 60/40 solder is awful. 63/37 solder is way better because 63/37 solder melts at a lower temperature and its melting point is one point instead of a range of temperatures where it's partially solid. Kester 44 63/37 is some of the best.

u/price-scot · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

this pump is great

I had the cheap one, and this one blows it out of the water

u/fuzziekittens · 6 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

I totally agree about the Morphe palettes! I hate having three of them but can't tell them apart unless I pick them up. For depotting, I used two tools. I used a double sided metal spatula and a heat gun. With the spatula, one end is flat and the other end has an angled tip. That tip made it super easy to get in under the shadows. The heat gun can be found here:

What I do is first push the spatula under the edge of the Morphe palette to begin to separate it from the actual case. Once the edges are lifted as far as I can without forcing it too much, I grab my heat gun. I put it on the lowest setting and concentrate it under one of the shadows. You will begin to see it pop out. That's when I take the curved end of the Spatula to slowly begin to pull it off the glue. So long as you let the heat do the work for you, it comes off easy. If it doesn't want to pop up, let it warm up some more. Then, just keep doing it to the others. The glue on the Morphe palettes can be rolled right off and honestly I only had three or four pans that I had to roll off the backs. Their pans are not magnetized so you will need the magnet stickers. When you pick up the pans, they will be hot. I used a paper towel to pick them up. Be careful not to touch the surface of the shadow until its cooled down or you will knick the top of the shadows. I hope that helps! :-)

u/ScenicValley · 6 pointsr/ResearchVendors

/u/Speshuls - using these two items from Amazon, I have never had a bottle leak ever - Heat Shrink Neck Wrap Bands and Heat Gun. If you have Amazon Prime you could have 500 of the bands and the heat gun to apply them for less than $35 with free 2 day shipping. If not it might cost slightly more for shipping, I'm not sure though.

u/fakewisdom · 6 pointsr/livesound

I have had this one for about 10 years. It has been awesome. There is an analog one that is under $100 that is just as nice.

u/marklein · 6 pointsr/AskElectronics

Keep in mind that some of the people in this sub are professionals and they are only going to suggest pro gear. And while I agree with them that a really great iron is a great idea, you can get away with something cheaper than $100 and still get great results.

The iron you posted is probably crap considering how cheap it is. That same iron direct from China is like $5, so that will tell you something. If I can suggest something in between a Hakko and the toy, I've used this iron regularly for years:

u/georgetd · 6 pointsr/Luthier

You do not need, and probably do not want a top tier soldering iron for working on a guitar. The big gains on expensive soldering irons are digitally controlled temperature, faster heat up, more tip options, and a lot of extra cost.

The orange Weller is $40, and does everything you could want for working on a guitar.

u/notalexlane · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

No worries man,


--keyboard parts--

Plate, PCB and case





Soldering Iron



--build guides--

How to build a 60%

How to use QMK firmware

How to flash your keyboard


If you are still needing more help or guidance, shoot me a PM.

u/AvailableStop0 · 6 pointsr/arduino

I gotta disagree with this one... Don't bother screwing around, just buy a Hakko 888D.

u/jeffro422 · 6 pointsr/rccars

I would buy the $20 Weller at Home Depot. Works well, I've soldered maybe 6 or 7 deans connectors and a few traxxas connectors with no issue. Or pony up and buy the Hakko.

u/jmblock2 · 6 pointsr/santashelpers

Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.

I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.

If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)

Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] ( or DE0-Nano.

Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.

Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.

If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.

And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.

u/DR650SE · 6 pointsr/soldering

100% the
Hakko FX888D-23BY

It's what was suggested to me when I asked the same question here, and I honestly love it.

u/Babylon4All · 6 pointsr/livesound


  • If you're stateside, Anixter is our main supplier since they have branches all across the country. However we use several local vendors as well, NedCo in Las Vegas, Pacific Radio in Los Angeles, etc.

  • EWI looks fine, I haven't ever worked with it personally, but looking at their site it looks fine.

  • My company personally uses Belden whenever possible for installations and for inside racks. For touring and studio a mixture of Mogami and Canare for microphone, instrument cable etc. For speaker cable I personally prefer CCI/Coleman cables. I've seen those jackets take extreme beatings in all environments and all sorts of machinery run over them.

    For your question about 3.5mm to TS, you really just need any audio rated cable and what it's purpose is. For these I personally find it easier to purchase a stereo 3.5mm and solder on the connector I need; RCA, TS, XLR, etc.

  • When looking you should shop around multiple vendors and get pricing for various cables at each location. See how their pricing and shipping differ.

  • Most 22-26awg signal cable will use foil due to it's small size. Outside of that should be a twisted dump wire. Solid dump wires I've found are not the best for audio as they break easily if a cable is over extended/bent too far. For microphone, as close to 100% coverage over your other pairs is ideal. Any reputable cable manufacturer will provide this information.

  • Microphone cable is the same cable as instrument cable. The only difference is there is an extra wire. A balanced XLR will have a dump wire/shield, a hot, and a neutral. An instrument cable only has the dump wire/shield and the neutral generally. The only real thing to look for is the cable's resistance. Digital RCA should be around 75ohms, while Analog RCA is around 20-40. Same for DMX and Audio, DMX looks the same, but is around 110ohms, whereas audio cables will be around that 20-40ohms. This is done to protect the digital transmission of their square waves more, whereas audio doesn't need to and is a sine wave.


  • Each solder will have a different melting point, another key thing is to look at the melting point of the wires insulation/jacket. Most Lead based solders will have a melting range of 350-450°F. Generally the silver solder will melt around 1,145°F, this is known as easy silver solder, as it is only around 56% pure, hard flow silver solder is closer to 1,375°F. What you'll typically find/use is 70/30 or 60/40 which should be around 350-375°F range. Why some people prefer Silver Solder is for clarity, it has less imperfections that disrupt the flow of the electrons. However your usual 70/30 or 60/40 is just fine as well, the majority of cables you'll work with have been made with this type of solder. One key thing to look for is that the solder you have contains a Flux Resin Core. This helps the solder flow easier and bond to other metals easier.

  • Watch videos on youtube, make sure you have a decent Iron [I personally prefer Hakko] the Digital FX888D is a great inexpensive soldering station for beginners. The next thing to do is to practice. Practice, practice, practice. Cut off a few feet of wire and go at it, practice tinning and terminating over and over again. Another thing is to practice undoing a connection. To do this you'll want to put your tip on the joint, and then add solder with a flux resin core. Once solder melts, its melting point goes up in temperature, the flux and resin help to lower that back down to make it flow faster/easier. Then, if you don't have a solder sucker, just pull the wire out of the connection point and while the solder is still flowing tap it out onto a safe surface. This will remove the excess solder but will still make it tinned, ready for your next wire. Key point clean your tip! If your iron didn't come with a gold foil cleaner, get one, they're around $5-25 and worth every penny, here's a $5 one on Amazon. This will clean all the impurities off of your iron and make soldering easier and cleaner. If you're in a pinch and don't have one, a wet paper towel/cloth works. You want it to be wet enough that if you squeeze it with some good force water will come out of it steadily, but not so much water that it pools out when you press your iron against it.

  • A station heats up very quickly, so if you have a shop, those are ideal. Having it well lit and ventilated is key, the fumes can be nasty. Additionally have the right tip on your iron for the job is key. For example, a tip meant to do 26awg signal probably isn't the best suited for then doing 10awg lines.

  • Google, sometimes after a long day my mind blanks when making adapters for whatever I'm doing, and I just do a quick google image search. Otherwise, if you want it in book form, along with basically everything you'd need to know about the basics of tech, The Backstage Handbook.

  • You should have the following,
    Stereo RCA to XLR Male

    Stereo RCA to RCA

    Male XLR to RCA

    Female XLR to RCA

    EP6 to NL4 and NL8, going both ways, ie One side Male Neutrik to Female EP6, and then vice-versa.

    1 Male to 2 Female XLR

    Then just a slew of various connectors to make anything that may arise.

  • Amazon, Anixter, any electronics specialty store will have shrink tube. Be sure to check out how much it'll shrink when heated up, so shrink more than others. How to make them super clean is all up to how meticulous you are. Make sure you have a nice clean strip of the wire, and that your distance for stripping back the otuer jacket, and each wire's inner jackets is proportional to the connectors strain relief. You'll also want to make sure you sex your wire, ie, male XLR should go, Ground, Hot, Neutral when stripped Left to Right. Female XLR should start with the Neutral, then go Hot, then Ground. This will make for a cleaner look when it may be opened up, and less of a hassle when aligning the wires for soldering. For the actual soldering part you'll want to tin both your wire, and the solder point. Solder will flow to where it's hottest. By tinning these you are prepping the points to connect. You'll use less solder, and it will take less time. Once both sides are tinned, put the tip of your iron at a contact point of both the wire and the connector. Then wait a good 2-3 seconds and apply some solder. you won't need much. If you did it right the solder will melt almost instantly and then hold the iron there for another 1-3 seconds and both the solder on the wire and connector will now pool and flatten down naturally from gravity with the solder you just added. Pull your wand away and let it cool for a second or two before you let go of the wire. Shrink tube should be necessary in most XLR, TRS, RCA, NL4, connectors, but if you feel so inclined, then by all means do it. However, for this I recommend using a clear shrink tube. This will make it easy to check if something at the solder point is bad when troubleshooting a cable. For other cables such as an EP6 connector, I will always, ALWAYS recommend use of shrink tubing.

  • Labeling depends on the context. For instals in say an audio rack, our typical scheme is U101-A, U101-B, U102-A, the U### = Rack unit number, the letter A thru B, C, D etx refers to the amp channel. For these I typically use 3/8 or 1/2 White or Yellow shrink tube labes with our Rhino Labeler. We do not however shrink them, this is done for service purposes. Depending on your angle when servicing you may not be able to read the label once shrunk, but if left unshrunk you can turn it so it can be read from wherever you are. Note, you should label both ends of the cable the EXACT same. For touring and rental you should put your name/company's info on a label of some sort and then place a piece of clear shrink tube over that. You want to make sure about 1/2-1" of the clear shrink tube carriers over the edges of your label. This will protect your label longer than if they're almost exactly the same length. It's also not a bad habit to run a piece of colored tape, label, whatever under the clear shrink tube on both ends to distinguish cable length. Every company has a different method, but the one I use is the rainbow.

    Red - 5ft

    Orange - 10ft

    Yellow - 15ft

    Green - 25ft

    Blue - 50ft

    Purple - 100ft

    White - 200+, one band =200, two bands = 300.

    Hopefully this helps you in some way, let me know if you have any other questions or follow-up to any of these responses! edits Grammar, phrasing, some links to specific items, etc.
u/ArghRoadcam · 6 pointsr/techsupportgore

You basically just traded a big snotty cold joint for a little dry cold joint.

Tip: If you're not crazy talented at soldering, there's no shame in using a little externally applied flux to get a properly flowed joint.

u/unwinds · 6 pointsr/consolerepair

Although not the cheapest, ebay is probably the easiest way to find faulty systems.

Some equipment recommendations:

  • A TS100 soldering iron. I use a more expensive Hakko FX888-D, but I've heard great things about this one for the price. Try to get a chisel tip for general purpose use, it has a balanced combination of size and heat transfer.
  • iFixit 64-bit toolkit, for handling all the various screws you'll encounter.
  • Soldapullt desoldering pump. Don't bother with the Chinese knock-offs, they seem to break easily.
  • Fine 63/37 solder. One roll will last you a long time. Don't bother with cheap Chinese solder, it will not have the advertised metal composition and give poor results.
  • I like this flux, but it's kind of pricey.
  • Desoldering braid is essential.
  • Neoteck multimeter. Very good for the price.
  • If you need to remove SMD components, a 858D hot air station available under various Chinese brands you've never heard of. Kind of sketchy, but works and has not burned down my home yet.
u/Felord · 6 pointsr/cigars There you go the last torch youll ever need to buy...unless its a dud then re-order.....

Single torch? check

soft flame? Check

Adjustable? Check

Huge ass tank? Check


Can fuck with it for hours? check.

Sold by mother fucking jackie chan? double check

u/jazzguitarboy · 6 pointsr/amateurradio

Get 63/37 instead -- it's eutectic, so no more cold joints! You can get a big roll from Kester on Amazon:

u/Quakemz · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use the Aoyue 701A+, but a lot of people really like Hakko irons, here, like the FX-888. Honestly, it really depends on how much soldering you're going to be doing. I really don't recommend spending $80+ on an iron if you're only ever going to solder one or two boards, because that's not very good value. A lot of people recommending irons forget that. If you only plan to do a board or two, I'd recommend something with a lot of value, like this. This is what I started on. Nothing special, but a lot of features for this price and it worked fine for my first two boards.

u/erleichda_archiving · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This $20 Kit on Amazon might be goo entry level... I have NO idea if the iron is any god but have seen people use them and they work fine. This one comes with a multimeter for a few bucks more. The tool you will find a lot of use for is that curved tweezer. It can open switches, hold components, pick up clipped resistor/diode leads etc.


If you have never soldered do NOT let an expensive keyboard be the first time... get some PCB's and resistors and then watch youtube videos of soldering... Pete from 1upkeyboards has tons... you might need to scrub through to get to the soldering or just search youtube for soldering videos. Soldering is not that hard but if you do not know what you are doing it is easy to scew the board up and ruining a board sucks.


Think twice, solder once... the biggest mistakes are not thinking it through and then you find you soldered the switches and plate BEFORE the stabilizers or the Pro Micro before switches and desoldering is a pita and is easy to burn the pads.


Try the Sweet16 or the 9Key first. You have to setup the QMK software no matter what so those are nice affordable ways to get a board built fast and then build and flash your firmware.


Have fun.

u/jeffffjeffff · 5 pointsr/IWantToLearn

To start you need an iron and some lead solder
Link: ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers

u/demevalos · 5 pointsr/headphones

You can get started now for pretty cheap. If you wanted to try and make an aux cable, you could follow my guide here, but I could recommend some cheaper materials so the up-front cost isn't so much.

I just bought some wire on Aliexpress that may be a cheap replacement for the mogami, and you can get a standard cheap soldering iron like this one if you plan on doing electrical work in the future anyway.

u/kaybeerry · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Is Preonic worth the investment?

I have a Planck rather than a Preonic but OLKB designs sturdy and reliable boards that are also very interesting.

I honestly think the Planck is like twitter. Having a very low word (key) count makes people more creative in how they express themselves. The Preonic is more like tumbler where more things can be done more easily.

Moving keys to other layers is fine due to the extra thumbable keys on the bottom row. The Preonic doesn't require as many layers because it has so many more keys, so the extra thumb keys aren't really necessary.

That said, it's a nice compromise.

Is it a good build for a beginner?

It's the same difficulty as any other keyboard build that has PCB components soldered on. All you have to do is add switches and through-hole solder them. It's definitely a fine way to learn to solder as long as you follow a few rules.

Most keyboard kits come this way with the exception of those like the Lets Split which you have to solder diodes and a promicro onto also.

The only thing More difficult is getting a PCB printed and buying diodes, resisters, and chips from DigiKey and then using a heat gun or oven to cook all the little things on.

What is a good soldering station?

Cheap ones will work fine. People around here seem to like the Hakko 888d which is what I use. The cheaper ones like this will also work fine. The extra $80 doesn't change much about how you work. Turn on the iron, heat stuff, sponge occasionally, don't touch it to your skin, then put it away safely.

Soldering rules for beginners

  1. Don't hold the heat on any part for more than 5 seconds. If it starts looking like a mess, go solder other parts and let things cool off before coming back to fix it. Don't freak out about the speed, just be deliberate and have things ready before you start applying heat
  2. Use leaded solder because it's much easier to melt and manipulate
  3. Use rosin core, no clean solder so you don't have to futz around with flux or flux cleaner
  4. Put the iron down when you're not using it. It is shaped like a pencil and we humans like to tuck those between fingers while manipulating things. Do not do this.

    There are a lot of little things to do to maximize soldering experience. You'll figure these out over time. I thing this short list is enough to keep your board intact and blood in your body.
u/ipha · 5 pointsr/ZReviews

I have a Hakko FX888D and it's great. Might be overkill depending on your uses though.

EDIT: Whatever you get, make sure it's temperature controlled though.
EDIT2: Lead free solder is garbage. Get some proper lead rosin core solder.

u/Insanereindeer · 5 pointsr/AskEngineers

Doesn't have a heat gun. Just buy a small heat gun separate if you want one.

Budget one.


You listed a lot of garbage chinese garbage. They may last years. They may die directly out of warranty.

As for all the other items, you should buy whatever you feel you need to be safe. A fire extinguisher is a must for any residence but soldering probably isn't going to be the reason a fire is started.


I have a $30 30W Weller that I've been using for YEARS. I've left it on for hours accidentally. I've only replaced the tip once in the years I've owned it.

u/JavaGiant865 · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is highly recommended: Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020 1 lb. Spool

And if you plan more than one project this soldering iron is great: Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow)

u/ListenBeforeSpeaking · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I am a fan of the Weller WESD51

The Hakko FX888D is also very popular.

Both companies have parts that are widely available.

u/Imlulse · 5 pointsr/headphones

Gonna need something else after you use those though...

u/akelis · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I would consider the Hakko FX-888 a good entry-level soldering station. It's great for home usage. The cheapie soldering irons rarely have good temperature control -- so one solder joint will be just fine, the next will be way too hot, and the third will be a cold-solder joint.

If you can find a stable iron -- and that's a huge if, in my experience -- you'll do just fine, regardless of price.

This is something worth spending a little bit on to get something decent. You can play the soldering iron lottery, and you might get lucky, but it might also cost you a lot of time, frustration, and ruined projects.

I'm assuming you're new to soldering things -- consider taking a look at this guy's series on soldering:
Part 1 covers equipment, part 2 covers technique, and part 3 covers surface-mount work. Those should be sufficient for you to get off the ground and running on home projects. :)

u/advicevice · 5 pointsr/OpenPV

Hakko Fx-888d best damn soldering iron I've ever owned.

Honestly, I get most of my stuff off Amazon, but that's probably because I have Prime. I've also found to be pretty decent for sourcing larger quantities of heat shrink tubing, wiring, and other stuff.

u/PizzaGood · 5 pointsr/robotics

If you want a no brainer, will definitely work well for you answer, just get yourself a genuine 888D

Just under $100:

Personally I bought a half dozen $30 937D clones and they're working well for me.

Here's my teardown on the clones I bought (FWIW they're up to $40 on ebay now)

I bought them because I need a bunch for teaching classes and couldn't afford a half dozen 888s. For just one for my own use, I'd just get an 888D.

If you have special needs like a lot of heat capacity then the JBC CD-2BB, but it's close to $500, yikes.

u/ruhe · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Build Log 5: Viterbi


u/DividedBy_Zero · 5 pointsr/RetroPie

If you're taking your first steps into wiring, then you should get comfortable working with wires and tools. Here is a kit that will introduce you to wiring, soldering, etc.

Along with that, there are a few tools that might be useful to you:

  • A small stand with clips and magnifying glass
  • Solder wick for desoldering
  • Soldering tip cleaner
  • Extra supply of solder

    And there are videos on YouTube that will teach you how to properly solder a wire to a soldering point. For that Elenco kit, the main goal is to get both the siren and the flashing lights to work, which it will if you wired everything correctly and used the correct resistors. It can be easy to make mistakes while learning to solder for the first time but most mistakes can be fixed, and it's very difficult to cause enough damage to render the board completely unusable.

    Also, one note of caution: soldering irons are extremely hot, as the intent is to liquify the solder and attach it to the soldering points.
u/spadge67 · 5 pointsr/DIY

This Weller is what you want. Don't mess around with a junky one. Get the real deal first time around.

u/adjentlehug · 5 pointsr/Gameboy

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

I bought this one about a year and half ago and it's been great to me. Just make sure you get a fine point tip for it.

u/brock0791 · 5 pointsr/synthesizers

I'd really recommend getting a variable temp iron. Finding that sweet spot around 670 degrees will save you a lot of grief. Not sure what weller sells in 220v models but this guy is a good deal

u/InflamedFlamingo · 5 pointsr/DIY

I have the Aoyue 937+. It's $54 at Amazon and has good reviews. I've done a lot of soldering right from the get go with it and it has served well so far.

u/XxX420-BLAZE-ITXxX · 5 pointsr/chinaglass
u/I_Dab_Slabs · 5 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Best torch is the Blazer GT8000 Big Shot

Bit expensive at 100, but worth it. Not sure what affordable is to you, though. Everyone has a different idea of what that is depending on their budget. As for fast working this is a flawless torch. Lights every single time and is heats it up quick.

u/blore40 · 5 pointsr/LifeProTips

Less blow and more heat. Like this

Used to remove paint, bend plastic and stuff.

u/sphks · 5 pointsr/EngineeringPorn
u/electricblock · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

More than enough. I've been using this crappy iron (actually one just similar but safer) for all my boards, and with a totally hooped tip. Basically as long as it will melt the solder and not you or the board, it will work.

u/qupada42 · 5 pointsr/techsupportgore

I've heard a lot of people in /r/arduino and similar speak highly of moderately-priced soldering stations like this Weller one. While I love my JBC, on price alone I can't entirely recommend it.

What I've always found is best are skinny (and preferably interchangeable) tips with a decently powerful element behind them, giving a good mix of precision and power. You should definitely buy a "station" style soldering iron rather than the cheaper kind where the mains cable goes straight into the iron, the lighter-weight cable between the base and iron makes the whole process so much easier.

My advice for learning would be to start with an everything-included kit that produces some kind of usable item at the end. This was the first Google result for "through hole soldering 101 kit", which appears to be some kind of "Simon" game. Coincidentally, one of the first things I remember making with my own soldering iron. You can move onto surface-mount, assuming you don't get the bug and decide to go straight to reflow soldering once you've figured out which is the hot end of the iron, buying a reasonable iron rather than a bargain-basement one so you get a sufficiently precise tool will enable your first purchase to carry on working for you longer.

My only other piece of advice would be to avoid lead-free solder like the plague until you've figured out the ins and outs of the process. It's almost universally terrible stuff to hand solder with at first and takes a lot of getting used to. Just stick with the easy to use leaded solder and avoid breathing too much of it until you've got the process down.

u/Hellspark08 · 5 pointsr/diypedals

This is what I use.

It isn't the cheapest adjustable station out there, but it seems to be good quality. I've had a handful of cheap irons over the years, and I wish I had just started with something like this.

Edit: Fixed my link.

u/lazerbeamspewpew · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I actually had put this up on mechmarket last week before I decided I wanted to keep the case but change out the switches. I originally had BOX Burnt Oranges in here, which I found to be too heavy, so I desoldered them and put in 67g Zealios—MUCH better. The process was actually pretty painless due to this solder sucker—HIGHLY recommended. The PCB is a DZ60, and the case is from Shenzhen YMD (I believe he is sold out at the moment). The stabs are genuine cherry, of course, and have been clipped and lubed. Keycaps are GMK Muted. The low profile case works great with cherry profile keycaps.

u/papyrusinthewild · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

"Build log" (mostly pictures) is in the imgur album.

This started off as a stock WASD V2 with Cherry MX Clear switches. I bought a 55g uniform RealForce not long after, and that has been my daily driver pretty much ever since. I actually thought I might just sell the WASD for whatever I could get for it.

I decided instead to go for the ergo clear mod, which sounds absolutely fantastic on the videos I've seen here, here, and others on YouTube. I also decided that while I had the case all apart I would add dampening foam to it and paint it to go with the SA carbon I just received.

Paint and clear coat for the case were from the local hardware store. I found the dampening foam on Amazon. I also picked up a Hakko tip cleaner and Engineer solder sucker from Amazon. The 62g gold springs and lubes are from Mehkee. They were out of their kits, but the lubes that are in the kit are all sold separately on their site, so no problemo.

The whole thing took about a week, give or take, and it was very tedious, to say the least. But the outcome has been simply spectacular. The ergo clears are so buttery smooth, and they sound awesome with SA doubleshot caps. I think the case color came out great. The WASD is now feeling a whole lot more premium!

Edit: this video was super helpful for the case painting.

Edit: here is the “before” post -

u/SpecCRA · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yes, this is the right place! Here's a few things to help you.

  • You want this sucker. The cheaper ones are a pain in the ass. There is one replacement tube that it comes with, and here's a link for more.

  • Here's a link to a video guide. It takes a little bit of practice, but it's not terribly difficult.

  • Have a fan going or get a solder fume extractor!

  • Amazon has kits you can buy to practice, but it's not THAT difficult.

    The only tip I have is use your solder sucker in your strong hand and the iron in your other. I have much better hand control with my right, so I can more accurately place the solder sucker to take it out in one or two tries. Oh, and easy on the caffeine! You don't want shaky hands while doing this.
u/Darkblade48 · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is the Hakko.

If you don't mind manual, then the Tenma will also work

u/M4rius · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

make sure to clean it periodically and make sure the nozzle sits flush. otherwise look into this one

u/angelartech · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Be really careful. Don't rip the switches out if they don't come out. Just keep trying to remove the solder successfully without burning any pads or damaging any traces. Not being careful is how I managed to screw up my Poseidon Z. (funnily enough I tried installing the same switches)

If you don't mind spending extra money, I really recommend the Engineer SS-02 solder sucker. It has a silicone tip that allows you to get right up against the soldering iron to suck up as much solder as possible.

u/dollartacos · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Got a soldering iron for Christmas and dove right in. This is my third 60% build, and by far my favorite.


u/deathonater · 4 pointsr/EDC


1 - OtterBox Drybox 3250 (Keeps my stuff dry when hoofing it through the rain)

2 - Oakley Juliet Carbon, Black Iridium, with Pouch

3 - Victorinox SwissChamp XLT with Pouch (I've disassembled and repaired laptops using only this tool, it's got everything)

4 - Sony Earbuds (Galaxy S4 Active does not have an FM radio, earbuds acts as antenna for HTC phone's FM radio)

5 - Toshiba Canvio Connect 2TB Portable Hard Drive (There's a complete backup of my PC as well as about 1,200 movies on it)

6 - Dayan GuHong 3x3x3 Speed Cube 6-Color Stickerless V2

7 - Moleskine Classic Notebook, Pocket, Plain Paper, Hard Cover, Black, with Zebra F-301 Ballpoint, Sanford Protouch II Mechanical Pencil, and Staedtler Mars Plastic Eraser

8 - Rechargeable Backup Battery (Got it for $10 at Micro Center, great for a quick top-up when I'm in the field, or in a field)

9 - Armani Exchange Leather Logo Embossed Card Case

10 - SanDisk Cruzer Fit 16GB USB Flash Drive x 2 (One Bit-Locker encrypted with PortableApps, and one YUMI bootable with PCLinuxOS, BackTrack, HIREN, and LiberKey)

11 - Importer520 Micro USB OTG Male To USB Female Adapter For Samsung Galaxy S4 Active (Allows me to plug almost any USB device into my Galaxy S4)

12 - Samsung Charger, with retractable USB to Mini-USB cable, and Mini-USB to Micro-USB adapter (Charges both phones, bluetooth headphones, bluetooth keyboard, backup battery, and connects hard drive to phone or PC)

13 - Honest 503 Butane Jet Pencil Torch (Also doubles as a quick and dirty soldering torch)

14 - Rii Touch 330 Bluetooth Keyboard

15 - HTC Inspire 4G (Backup Phone)

16 - Hybrid Case for Samsung Galaxy S4 Active (Taking Photo) (This thing is a beast, water and dust proof, it has pretty much negated my need to carry around a laptop, especially with TeamViewer installed. I was also able to wade across a river with it fully submerged in my pocket while on vacation last year.)

17 - Quikcell S160 Stereo Bluetooth Wireless Headset

18 - Casio PRW2500-1 (Solar powered, with every environmental sensor that my phone doesn't have)


Packed Armani Exchange Ripstop Messenger Bag

Packed Otterbox (Goes in bag)


Thermos E20600 (Goes in bag, quite literally keep ice for 24 hours, utterly amazing)

u/OtherwiseASandwich · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The Tenma 21-8240 is better and easier to use than that one.

u/coesidur · 4 pointsr/interestingasfuck
u/isanyonekeepingtrack · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

You're not going to get a good soldering iron for $10. The good Hakko ones are electronically controlled so they're always at the correct temperature.

I initially scoffed at spending that much money on one for how often I solder, but the quality of work I can do is so much better now. They're worth every penny.

u/Rob27shred · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Oh wow, MX black switches are usually not very tight fitting with caps either. MX clear switches are the ones that are notorious for this! Sorry this happened to you OP. This isn't the greateast video showing how to de-solder switches but should give you a decent ideal of what you'll need to do. The only tools you'll really need are a sodapullt, some solder wick, & a decent temp controlled soldering station. Well, TBH you could get away with a cheaper soldering iron if all you plan on ever using it for is replacing these few switches. Although I will say cheap soldering irons with no temp. control are much easier to damage the PCB or pads with.

u/Enlightenment777 · 4 pointsr/ECE


1A) Art of Electronics book (3rd edition)

  1. Digital Soldering Station

  1. Digital Caliper

    Comparison Review:

u/bagelofthefuture · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Typically the better iron brands are Weller and Hakko, with their hobbyist-level stations being the WES51 and the 888D

u/burkholderia · 4 pointsr/Guitar

Get this one. 40 watts with adjustable level control. $40. A well known and reliable brand. I've had mine for years and it's been great. I would also suggest getting a few different sized tips for different projects. I almost always use the really thin pointy tip for greater control, but the wide blade tip that comes with this can be useful for things that require a lot of heat (desoldering chassis mounted cap cans for example).

u/w-e-f-u-n-k · 4 pointsr/Guitar

Nice! It is rewarding knowing that you can repair and modify your guitar's wiring as you please, just gotta break the seal and do it that first time. As with anything, practice makes perfect. My solder jobs looked pretty terrible and messy the first several times I tried it, but the more I do it the cleaner and more professional they look. Youtube instruction videos are super helpful as well, and having a decent iron that's at least 40 watts makes things much easier (doesn't have to be too expensive, I use one of these and am very happy with it).

Also, Seth Lovers are a great call. I have them in my Les Paul and they're the definition of the classic PAF sound, lots of snap and clarity but also totally lush and warm and punchy. Perfect for pretty much anything short of metal imo.

u/Robot_Spider · 4 pointsr/fpvracing

I'm in the process of building my first FPV drone with my 11 year old son. Tools I owned or have purchased for this are:

A set of small screw drivers. I found a set in the bargain bin at NAPA Auto that had straight, philips, a few hex, a few sockets.

A decent electronics soldering station. Not the gun. I have a digital Weller that is easy to control, but the analog is just as good for these purposes.

A third hand. There are many different kinds. I got a cheap $5 one at Harbor Freight. Not great, but does the job.

Solder, de-soldering wick, flux (maybe)

Depending on where you're doing your work, might want an air-filter or fan.

A magnifying lamp is helpful but not necessary.

An assortment of board stand-offs/spacers is handy.

A good small pair of wire snips.

Wire stripper

A digital multimeter is not a bad idea.

Those are all the major tools you might need. Plus all the drone parts. batteries/charger. Radio/receiver. Camera/receiver(goggles or screen).

In short, it's a lot of stuff. The drone parts end up being the least expensive part, honestly.

Above links are just examples, not necessarily endorsements.

You mentioned you're on a budget, which I totally understand. Building is not the cheapest route, but it's been a lot of fun so far. People who've done it for a while tend to forget the cost of tools. Once you've built one, subsequent drones are relatively cheap. You can re-use batteries, the charger, most decent radios, even the receiver.

If you're not in a hurry, Bangood is a good source for cheap(er) parts. You're on your own for support, usually, but there's lots of help out there.

u/y-aji · 4 pointsr/synthesizers
u/ipewp666 · 4 pointsr/trees

This is the one my pops bought and it works so well. Japanese manufacturing.

u/Mrcool360 · 4 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

I don't use propane due to it causing oxidation faster than butane. My new favorite is the Blazer Bigshot Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch

u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

This is my torch.

It's $57 and you'll never need another torch. The flame is perfect, it's all around a quality torch.

I'm not fond of the vector torches, but this bed bath and beyond torch is in your price range and is very similar. Not as quality as the big shot but it does its job.

u/El_Dubious_Mung · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

ChipQwik - use it like solder. It mixes with the solder and lowers its melting point, making it stay molten longer. This is good for desoldering tiny things.

Flux pen - flux is a liquid that helps guide the solder. Any youtube video about soldering can provide an explanation.

Solder sucker - melt the solder, suck it up

Solder wick - melt the solder, soak it up.

You don't need to get these exact products, but they're all handy. You can get by without the chipqwik, but the rest should be in every soldering toolkit. Also remember that solder will like to move towards the soldering iron, so you can kind of use it to pick up any excess solder if you do it right.

I should note that I've never done a usb port before, so I can't guide you on exactly how to do it. I'm a bit of a newb myself. Just devour a few youtube tutorials, and try it. Soldering is really a skill learned by doing, and like I said, you have nothing to lose at this point. No point in being afraid to fail now.

u/myninerides · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/ColinWalin · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I started out with this one.

ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers

The ferrule to tighten down the tips I accidentally screwed sideways and stripped the threads. So I can't use it anymore.

I upgraded to this and like it a lot. The only thing that stinks is you would have to buy a separate solder sucker.

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

I have this one now and I really like it a lot. I also use 60/40 solder. I hear people rant and rave about 63/37. Either way.

u/Kupo43 · 4 pointsr/Gameboy

Some thoughts on the IPS:

  • Install:
    • Toughest part is attaching the ribbon cable back to the AGS board. I found it was shorter than the stock ribbon cable.
    • Don't be scared to solder. Bought a $15 soldering iron off Amazon and practiced a bit on other stuff. Very easy to solder the wire to the board for brightness control, just need to be precise.
    • I bought my case from Retro Modding and chose to do the case modification myself with my dremel tool. Easy as well.
  • IPS:
    • At first it was weird not having the pixelated look of the AGS-101 but, after seeing the two next to each other, I'm starting to love the pixel density of the IPS.
    • If you solder, you'll have 6 brightness options. Levels 1 and 3 are comparable to the AGS-101 and its two brightness options. This means the IPS is quite brighter at its highest setting, but also darker for sessions at night with no lights on. Great versatility.
    • I have experienced zero screen tearing as I received the new ribbon cable. That should not be a concern anymore.

      Overall, I think this really is the game changer everyone has been waiting for. I love my two AGS-101's but, with the prices rising and the availability of this kit, it's a no brainer. Again, I bought this cheap soldering iron and practiced a few times; that's really how easy the install is if you have steady hands. I cannot speak for this kit without the brightness options activated.

      Hope this helps!
u/YetAnotherFrreddy · 4 pointsr/AskElectronics

For general electronics use, it's hard to beat the Hakko FX888.

u/beachbuminthesun · 4 pointsr/guitarpedals

Essentially, yes - they're probably too cheap.

If you want good cables, you've got to pay up.

Best Solderless:

Or learn how to solder.

Buy this best soldering iron:

With this:

And this:

Money well spent. Patch cables will cost you about $4-$5 to make and make excellent Christmas presents for friends and family.

u/murdurturtle · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

First.. what soldering iron are you using? Looks like it's not getting hot enough and the solder isn't getting up to temperature.

If you plan on soldering more maybe invest in something like this.. I've been using one for years and it's a wonderful soldering station. The cheapo walmart irons are usually not good at all.. even now being much better at soldering I still can't use one of those.

This is also a good starter setup.

u/Camo5 · 4 pointsr/battlebots

get yourself a quality soldering station because temperature control is actually extremely useful. There are cheaper alternatives to the hakko f888 but everywhere i've been this particular station eventually finds its way into every electronics room.

u/Mike12344321 · 4 pointsr/Multicopter

IMO weller has gone the way of many. you're paying an extra $30 for the name.

i use this for everything, including SMT

u/zichlone · 4 pointsr/OpenPV

Neither of those irons is temperature controlled. The best you're going to get out of either of those is guessing the temperature based on the voltage settings.

If you're willing to spend that much on a board I would highly recommend getting a better station such as the Hakko FX-888D.

u/noanoxan · 4 pointsr/Gameboy

> Weller WD1

Seriously? If you're going to be dropping $400+ on a soldering station, then you buy some quality HW. JBC > Weller in precision soldering equipment.

OP is looking for something like a TS-100, or a FX-888

OP can buy cheaper if they're not planning to get into the hobby, but I'd suggest investing in a station with adjustable heat as a minimum.

u/niandra3 · 4 pointsr/diypedals

I'm still pretty new to this myself, but like you I have some electronics experience in the past. I just got this Weller 40w iron station with a desolder braid/sucker and a solder tip cleaner. Oh and a more precise tip for the solder iron

I'm really happy with it all so far, and couln't imagine needing more for a while. A heat gun would be nice for de-soldering and reflowing premade boards (like modding Boss pedals), but that can also be done with a regular solder iron as far as I know. You can get the above for about $60 total, so it's a nice way to get your feet wet without a huge investment. Then you gotta add on components/enclosures/pots/switches etc. Maybe get a helping hands and/or circuit holder if you need

Oh and get a good multimeter. I went a step up from the $20 ones and got this one which I'm also really happy with.

u/2capp · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Might be worth getting a solder wick for when you inevitably screw up. Solder vacuum isn't a terrible idea either. I have both, I use them for different things. A third hand is also useful. I find myself using the glass more than the arms but it's all useful. If the iron you buy doesn't come with one a brass ball is great for keeping your tip clean without cooling it off like a sponge will. Micro-cutter is useful, not sure if angled or straight is better, up to you I guess. Last but not least a pair of angled tweezers. You can get those anywhere.

These are all the things I have within arm's reach when I'm doing a project. Have fun!

u/PunkinLauncher · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

From my expirence a soldering pump and braid will work but a cheap desoldering iron like this will work best and will be much easier.

ECG J-045-DS Electric Corded De-Soldering Iron, +420 Degree C Tip Temperature, 45W

u/ChucklingKumquat · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I am using this currently but this is coming in the mail tomorrow ;) along with some more lube and solder.

Edit: I have built all of my boards with the Weller without any issues. I also have a desoldering iron which is 10x better than the pump. If you ever plan on desoldering pick yourself up the desoldering iron for the extra 10 bucks. The solder pumps will break and you will end up spending that much on them anyways so its definitely worth it.

u/aimpad · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If this is just a one time job and you don't have any other soldering tools you could use this pretty easily:

It will get the job done. I've harvested switches from 30+boards using a tool like this. It is tedious, but will safely remove the switches from the PCB.

u/BloodyKitten · 4 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

I hate to say it, but RadShack makes my favorite budget desktop soldering iron. I have one of these and it works wonderfully. I've been through about 40 tips over the last 3 years with it, not counting one-use modified tips.

At the school lab, we were using this (in quantity at lab desk) or this (instructor's, who would loan it if we knew how to solder). I am going to miss the school lab. Transferring to the next higher level at a different university, where a friend attends, and their lab sucks.

If I bought a new one, I'd get the Weller WD1002. Until I upgrade to that, I'll keep my radshack 64-053.

If you buy a $13 soldering iron, you're buying a $13 soldering iron. Some will work better, some will work worse. Really doesn't matter where you bought it. I never had one last more than a few months.

If yours started out working ok then didn't, make sure your tip is clean. A highly oxidised tip left on overnight isn't going to work well, no matter the iron... if your tip is black, replace it. If it only came with a fine point tip, consider a different shape tip. Fine point tips (generally) only work well with higher power soldering irons.

If you want contactless-soldering, then you're not looking for an iron. You're looking for either a hot air reflow station or an iRDA station. Irons are meant to touch the solder to melt it. Hot air works with solder paste, meant for very low temp soldering (SMD safe). iRDA uses infrared light to melt solder, generally used for specialized surface soldering.
It sounds like you may be a little new to soldering, so I also highly recommend this comic to you... Soldering is Easy - PDF. I highly recommend it to those who have been around the block a few times as well.

u/johuesos · 4 pointsr/electronics

It depends what you are working on, but if you are working on through-hole and SMT in the under $40 price range I'd go with a Weller WLC100. It was my first iron and I used it for a long time before I finally upgraded (I still use it sometimes).

The stock tip was a little big for my taste so I bought a replacement (ST7) tip. The ST7 is a smaller conical tip. You can also find these on Amazon, but pay attention to the shipping if you order it off Amazon Marketplace, some 3rd party tool vendors will gouge you!

For the Fume extraction you should buy a fume extractor... heh. Pretty simple. I built my first fume extractor from an old PC power supply, an old exhaust fan, an articulating lamp base, some activated charcoal pads, and a length of dryer hose.

You can certainly go that route and build your own. It's nice if you already have the parts on hand, but eventually it became too unwieldy so I bought a Weller Fume Extractor. You can buy something similar for about half the price on Marlin P. Jones, but I was never able to catch them in stock.

Either way, look around, have fun, and good luck!

u/AnalogKid2112 · 4 pointsr/EngineeringStudents
u/jchan94 · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Not sure about that one. Personally, I'd recommend this one. It has a station, where the one you linked is in a case. I don't really ever see a soldering iron being put into a case.

u/L1zardcat · 3 pointsr/Flipping
u/cl249099 · 3 pointsr/biggreenegg

I use a heat gun. Just like a looft lighter but cheap.

u/Radinkina · 3 pointsr/crafts

I have done this.

I just used a hot-glue gun to attach the crayons to some MDF I had lying around (painted white), then melted them with a heat gun like this.

The heat gun seemed to give much better results than a hair dryer because there is less air moving and a higher heat, which seems to equal less chance of splatter. Don't do this on paper, you need something more solid so the melting crayon doesn't warp the surface. I know most craft stores sell canvases for relatively cheap, or go the MDF painted white route for a heavier (but sturdier) piece.

I have also tried the melting-crayon-in-a-glue-gun method, but didn't really like the results as much.

u/trustifarian · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

How much are you going to be making electronics a hobby? If you're just going to be soldering some boards occasionally you could save a bit on the iron and get this Weller. Also a cleaner. If you go with the 888 that will have a wire cleaner built in. I'm getting old so I personally would recommend at least a magnifying glass. I have this helping hand The clips didn't do much for me but the glass did. There are times where the switch pin just gets lost and the glass helped a lot. I also picked up this kit when I started, primarily for the sucker, but I thought the other tools may come in handy. So far they haven't, other than the solder. The first time I tried to use the sucker I could not get it to work correctly, I just wasn't getting enough of a seal around the hot solder, thinking I'd melt the tip, so I ended up buying a different pump that I still have never used, because I eventually DID learn to use the cheaper sucker. I also can't make solder wick work properly, apparently. If this is your first time soldering/desoldering I recommend getting a cheap practice kit that you don't care if you ruin. I can recommend this one as it has you intentionally foul up joins so you can learn to fix them. You won't need strippers. Flush cutters would be helpful if you need to trim the pcb mount legs off your switches (like Zealios, which you will if you have a GH60 Satan pcb) or trimming LEDs. Work mat would be helpful to keep your work area clean but not necessary. You will need a small screwdriver but I can't remember what size. Tweezers or one of these grabber thingies are always helpful when the screw flips sideways when you are trying to seat it. I used this solder on 3 builds so far and have had no issues with joins failing.

u/smokeandlights · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

This bad boy right here. It is admittedly the nuclear option, but I work on a lot of old fragile boards that will lift a trace if you look at it the wrong way. I also tend to replace a lot of 40 pin DIPs, which is freaking annoying. It can be had much cheaper, but grainger was the first link that popped up.


Before I invested in that, this or this were my favorite styles of desoldering tools. Much more reasonable, and pretty damned effective.



Also, if you can, cut the legs from the top side and clear the holes without anything in the way.

u/oxheart · 3 pointsr/olkb

As /u/Harakou commented, make sure to have desoldering materials. But for desoldering several switches at a time, I had trouble making progress with a regular solder sucker (the braid is very useful for small scale rework). So I bought a desoldering iron for several Planck and Ergodox rebuilds.

And to add to /u/deaconblue42 , a flux pen helped me a lot whenever I struggled to get good wetting action (watch the videos, it's a thing).

u/lecorsair · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've done two desolder jobs with this one and it is flawless and clean. Nice strong suction, but more importantly the exhaust is also equally forceful for when you need to eject the solder keeping the iron clean, and minimizing down time from cleaning. Really awesome and worth the premium.

u/alose · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Then why did you not get it pre-assembled?

You can buy an iron for $8 on Amazon and a couple of bucks for solder.

or /u/chucklingkumquat offered his services for free.

u/vinnycordeiro · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you are a total noob, I suggest you just get any 60 W soldering iron. Really. This one suits you and cost less than $10. Because getting a FX-888D now is like killing mosquitoes with cannons.

You also may need a stand where to rest the iron when not using it. It comes with a sponge so you can clean the iron tip from time to time (just don't forget to wet it before use).

Finally, you will need some solder. Stay away from lead-free solder, this stuff isn't for amateurs. Get a good-old 63/37 solder with rosin flux core, this one have a 0.3 mm diameter, small enough to even solder SMD components (but don't start with them, they need more practice to be hand-soldered).

Soldering isn't a difficult skill but it requires practice. So you better start small and take easy steps. In no time you will be soldering SMD components. :)

PS: you also want to get some desoldering wick and a hand vacuum pump/solder sucker, those are more useful than you might think.

DISCLAIMER: all these items are just suggestions, buy whatever you think is more useful for you. Just wanted to give you a start point.

u/potatocat · 3 pointsr/rccars

The most important thing about having successful Deans connectors setup is the soldering iron. The discount 10W-30W 'idiot wand' soldering iron is just not going to cut it in this case. You will suffer, you will hate soldering, your joints will look bad, and they will not be strong.

Invest in a good soldering iron with at least 50W like this one. I use the digital readout version which is fancier but that's it.

It pays itself off almost right away if you plan to do any sort of random electrical work.

Female plugs always are on the battery, so that they can't short out by accident easily.

u/lazd · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

Yes, it's definitely worth paying for the Weller WESD51 or its analog version.

Any decent iron will get the job done, but the Weller station is dependable and well designed. It gets hot fast and keep temperature even when faced with larger solder joints like those on your XT60 connectors, and you can get small tips like the Weller ETO for tight spaces like pin headers on your FC.

I've used the Hakko soldering station as well, and though it works just fine, I was a bit annoyed that it takes several button presses to change the temperature (you have to cycle through each decimal place), but the Weller simply has a knob. To me, this was a huge design failure that interrupts my work when I need higher or lower temps.

u/LBGW_experiment · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey dude, I had never soldered before I soldered together my infinity 60% from massdrop. I just bought this soldering iron and bought this learn to solder thing and all I did was just solder in all the pieces, unsolder a few of them to get the hang of that in case I messed up on my board, and that was it. I built my keyboard and it's amazing.

u/DarkStar851 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah, it'll require soldering. You can get away with something relatively cheap, but if you want good results I wouldn't really recommend anything <$40. I've heard good things about this soldering station but I have no idea what the 1-5 adjustments actually correspond to for temperature.

If you'd rather, I'm offering free assembly services right now, but it really doesn't look like a hard board to work with. I'd say it's a good beginner project.

u/samuri1030 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Everyone here is recommending you buy a soldering station - which is 3 times the cost of the full kit you linked which is absurd. The Hakko 888 is fantastic, but not what should be recommended in this scenario.


Honestly what you linked is likely crap and will probably frustrate you away from the hobby. If you get something with easy-to-buy interchangeable tips, it will help you a lot. Something like: may be a bit better of a deal and will be fine for learning. Also grab yourself some well-reviewed solder (rosin-core is fine), a cheap solder wick, cheap solder sucker, and a flux pen (flux will only be necessary if you are re-working - something you may do a lot when you start).


If you are looking for a cheap multimeter as well, anything will likely be good enough. Buy whatever has a feature set you think you need. Just note, that I wouldn't recommend measuring anything like mains AC with a cheap meter. Stick to low voltage ( < 50V) DC and you'l be fine. One of my favorite meters is the VC921 pocket DMM. It can be had for ~$10 and is accurate enough for me with a good feature set. Just note that it doesn't do current measurements. If you think you may get into electronics long term I recommend investing a nice meter. Fluke is the go-to brand-name, but there are many who will work just as well. Fluke 101 is ~$40 and will do everything besides current readings. If you want current, I recommend stepping up to the Fluke 107.


Also not a fan of all of the tools in that kit you linked. A lot seem un-necessary or extra cheap. These are expensive, but Adafruit and Sparkfun are great and reliable sources for hobbyists and have similar kits:


u/Kuryaka · 3 pointsr/Nerf

Good quality as in: Will work for Nerf stuff for a while, or solid build quality where you won't have to replace it often?

If you want to go for something that's no-worries and will probably last for the foreseeable future, the Hakko FX888 is SOLID.

Anything else I'd consider "nice" would have to have a soldering iron holder and temperature control that I trust. Very nice features, because if you leave the iron sitting for a while and don't tin the tip, the heat will start to oxidize/damage the finish of the tip and become unusable. This can also happen on any iron if you leave it running hot for a while, but something that's temperature-controlled rather than with an arbitrary power knob will keep your iron tip intact much longer.

Mid-tier would be something with variable power control but not temp control. You might be able to get away with lowering the power while you work instead of turning it off.

The "Amazon Special" that UNW1 linked is a fantastic soldering iron for the price, plenty of power whereas other cheap irons won't heat up quickly enough. I'd recommend it for most people starting out, since it's great for learning the basics + soldering iron care. There is practically no temperature control on the thing though. I turned it way down to minimum (Claimed 200-250C, which is nowhere near hot enough to melt solder) and it still threatened to overheat.

I've heard of irons that are even better than the Hakko/similar models in terms of where the heating element's located, other features... but I don't have much expertise in the field and haven't seen a need for those. As far as I'm concerned, $100 is as high as you need to go for now, and $50 can probably get you set up with a solid iron.

u/fukitol- · 3 pointsr/soldering

If you can up your price range a bit I've got this iron and rather like it.

But if you're willing to spend $100 the difference in performance is incredible.

u/poochzag · 3 pointsr/headphones

I got this one as my first and only solder station and it's worked out great for making cables and such. It's not temperature controlled (but does have a temperature knob) but as I understand it you don't really need that unless you're doing more complex stuff.

I also got a narrower tip on eBay for about 5 bucks, but really only needed that for the Hifiman SMC connectors, I got by with everything else fine with the stock tip

u/pepperell · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

At home, I've been using my Weller WLC100 for 10 years now. I can solder down to 0.65mm pitch pretty reliably. You just gotta find that sweet spot with the temperature knob. For me its like 3.25. If you want to solder that fine of a pitch, you'll need a magnifier of some sort though. It'll make it way easier

$40, tips extra

I mainly use this tip

u/engimaneer · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'm excited to see what others recommend. I'm a mech e and only solder about once a week max, usually as a hobbyist on a budget, so at home I have the Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station which i consider a great value for a reliable entry level unit, and freed up money to spend on other related equipment that is more important to me, like high quality helping hands, decent solder sucker, solder tips, that wire sponge tip cleaner doodad, a rubber mat, nice fan, and even good wire and proto boards. I don't use the heat gun on a regular basis, but the unit at work is a 852D 2 in 1 combo unit and I don't like how much desk space it takes up, so I prefer a separate mid tier or even chepo heat gun, since I rarely use it. Grain of salt, I only use it for melting adhesive or shrinking wrap or random stuff, so I defer to others for good heat gun advice more in line with your use case.
edit: updated the part number for the 2 in 1

u/royaltrux · 3 pointsr/arduino

I'm happy with this one:

In between cheap and expensive. I did need to buy a thinner (sharper?) tip for soldering small electronic stuff.

u/SearingPhoenix · 3 pointsr/Nerf

That stand type, which I've used, is pretty useless. I would personally recommend the classic 40W Weller station

u/chingwo · 3 pointsr/Gameboy

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

Also had to get a fine tip from HHL

u/sr65k · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

I have several that I use. My standard is a Weller WLC 100 that I have been using for the last 10 years. I have built and repaired several amps with this iron.

u/smithincanton · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

There are nicer soldering irons out there but I bare minimum would be Weller WLC100

u/shiekhgray · 3 pointsr/diypedals

I just had a similar misshap! How weird. I got lucky since the model name and number were written on the soldering iron itself so I could get a new one cheaply. You need a new "Soldering Iron" not a new "Soldering Station" I believe. You can plug a really simple iron into a very nice station and have all the benefits of the station temp controller and so on, I think. I've got a WLC100 and the replacement soldering iron is called the SPG40

u/joeyfettuccine · 3 pointsr/modular

There's tons of tutorials online if you really want to learn how to solder. Bear in mind that (like a lot of things) good soldering is the result of decent tools but mostly a bit of practice. It's not a difficult skill to learn, though.

Some tips off the top of my head:

Buy a decent iron if this is something you want to spend more than a few hours on. Something that can get hot enough so it doesn't wimp out soldering heavy ground connections, terminal strips etc. Don't crank up the heat too much if you're just soldering small components, but don't be a pussy with the heat dial if shit isn't melting fast enough for your liking.

This is possibly my favorite tool I've ever owned. It's more expensive than those small, flimsy solder suckers but it's much more effective and will last forever. Don't dick around with desoldering braid/wicks if you don't have to. IME they aren't very effective, are hard to use, and heat up the board/components too much. For certain applications (maybe surface mount) it can be handy but with through-hole components a spring loaded solder sucker like the Soldapullt is king.

Use rosin core solder, and don't use lead free solder if you're in the US. Lead free solder is a bit more difficult to use.

...that's it for now. Have fun.

u/darkharlequin · 3 pointsr/shittyrobots
u/RETROCUTION · 3 pointsr/Gameboy

This soldering station is more than enough for someone who is just starting out:

For solder, get yourself a roll of 60/40 or 63/37 leaded rosin core solder. I personally prefer 23 gauge 63-37.

u/Damarkus13 · 3 pointsr/arduino

I gotta agree. I picked up an Ayoue and, at my current level, am completely happy with it. Definitely find something temperature controlled in your budget.

To be clear, I can't justify dropping $100 on a hobby right now. So, it wasn't a choice between the Ayoue and a Hakko. It was between a RadioShack 2nd-degree burn stick and the Ayoue. I think I made the right choice.

u/MajorOverskill · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Looks good to me! I've been using this guy for a while now with no issues.

u/bakingpy · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/jaiakt · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

What the hell that's way too expensive for a soldering iron. You can get a good one for like 10-20 dollars. Here's the top amazon result to get you started: Full Set Vastar 60w 110v Soldering Iron Kit - Adjustable Temperature, 5pcs Different Tips, Desoldering Pump, Stand, anti-static Tweezers and Additional Solder Tube for Variously Repaired Usage

u/KoolyTheBear · 3 pointsr/fightsticks

The battery is much more than required, but you'll need a 5v line and not 9v. What kind of stick is this supposed to go into? USB provides +5v.

I know you said "if I don't have to", but you should really learn how to solder. It's not hard to do it to an acceptable level, and it opens up an entire new world of projects you can do. This kit is very inexpensive and has a decent reputation. Youtube is the only other thing you'd need.

u/ruskie_yt · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

There is a pretty basic soldering kit on amazon that I have been using for the last few months and it has been amazing! Ill link it to you below.

u/burstaneurysm · 3 pointsr/scion

It is, but you'd be way better off if you soldered.
Permanent connections, no way a wire will come loose.

You really only need a basic iron, solder and heat shrink.
Hell, this is all you need.

If you wanted, you can get a set of helping hands too and make your life really easy.

Soldering is very easy when you're just splicing wires. Not a ton of skill required. Get a roll of stranded wire and practice a bit.

When it's time to do the harness, cut away the excess, so you don't have a ton of wiring shoved behind the dash, slip a piece of heat shrink over one of the wires first and then do a lineman's splice, solder that connection and then shrink the tube over the bare connection.

u/SwammerDo · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I bought this cheap kit off Amazon and used it to desolder and then solder at least 200 switches.

It works quite well and you can adjust the temperature which is important.

The solder sucker included also works well enough, but is prone to clog up so I would empty it once in awhile and make sure that the tube isn't clogged full of dry solder.

u/GiulianoM · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

You should be able to clean off the pads, re-tin them, and re-solder new wires to them.


You'll need a few tools:

  1. Take some paper towels, fold them up into a square and get it wet with water. You'll use the wet paper towel to wipe off the hot tip between uses.
  2. Use the rosin core solder and apply some to the soldering iron tip.
  3. Wipe off any excess on the paper towel.


    Remove the solder from the pads on the heat bed:


  4. Clean the gunk off of the solder pads with the brass brush - the brass bristles should clean off the surface without damaging it, whereas steel bristles may cut into the surface a bit much.
  5. Unwind a few inches of the desoldering wick (copper braid), and dip the end into the rosin paste flux - you don't need a lot. The rosin helps the solder to flow and keeps impurities out.
  6. Put the desodering wick on top of the solder on the pad, and then press the tip of the soldering iron on top of the wick until it heats up. For an adjustable soldering iron, 300F is about right - you want the solder to melt within 5 seconds or less, ideally.
  7. The solder will melt, and get sucked up into the wick. Remove it from the pad while the solder's still hot
  8. You should be left with a bright shiny tinned solder pad.


    Add some solder to the pads - you'll want a little bit of solder to cover the whole pad, with enough to make a small bump.

  9. Take the solder, and touch it down flat on the pad.
  10. Place the soldering iron tip on top to melt it. Feed a little more solder in while it's hot, if needed.


    Tin the wires:

  11. Cut off the ends of the wire, and strip off the end of the insulation by about 1/4"-3/8".
  12. Twist the end of the wire so that it's tight, and straight.
  13. Cut off a small piece of the solder (~1/2"), and wrap it around the wire
  14. Dip the end of the wire into the rosin flux - you don't need a lot.
  15. Touch the soldering iron tip to the solder and the wire, and coat the wire back and forth until the solder gets sucked into the wire.
  16. It should have enough solder so that it gets absorbed and you can still see the outline of the wires.


    Attach the tinned wires to the tinned solder pads on the heat bed:

  17. Dip the tinned wire into the flux paste again - a little goes a long way.
  18. Place the tinned wire down on top of the tinned solder pad.
  19. Press the soldering iron tip on top of the wire, and heat it until the solder melts on both the wire and the pad.
  20. There should be just enough solder so that the wire is attached to the pad, but isn't buried in solder. If in doubt, add a little more.
  21. Hold the wire in place, and remove the soldering iron tip. It should cool in a few seconds, locking the wire in place.


    Also: You can use some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to clean up the excess rosin paste - it can get sticky.


    Hope this helps!
u/Domino_464 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

YouTube videos, practicing on something that doesn't really matter too much, looking at a photo of a part. There are a couple arduino kits that require soldering but it's really easy, the Sunfounder starter kit is one I learned from. (It's 99% arduino stuff but there's a easy to solder part)

You really only need a soldering iron, solder, something to hold the iron (if you're crafty with a coat hangar you could make one yourself) and a sponge. A brass sponge is better because it's dry. You may want to get a desoldering pump if you want to remove solder. I got the bestseller kit on Amazon and I've been really happy with it.

Do NOT touch anything metal on the soldering iron when it's on. Burnt the shit out of my hand.

u/agent_d00nut · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

The power leads, assuming you mean from the battery, do take a bit more but that seems like way too long.

if you don't, you need something with adjustable temp...
I've reached the end of the life of the tip for this one

But i'm just going to try and find a compatible tip and keep using it, the iron works "well enough"... Obviously the $100 stations are going to be better.

The real secrets are

  • Get tip tinner or w/e it's called. Absolute, 100%, required. I thought my tip was broken or something because it'd oxydize in about 2 seconds after cleaning with a sponge... Yea stick it in this and clean it on the next tip, and it'd stay shiny and nice for minutes... big improvement over wiping on a sponge every 5 seconds
  • Use the gentle brass cleaning instead of or in addition to a sponge. It does wear the tip down, especially with these cheapo tips, but between this and the tinner i would clean my tip once or twice per solder instead of MULTIPLE times PER solder.

    Those two things, + use 350 - 400 C, and soldering is almost fun now!
u/pbanj_ · 3 pointsr/3dshacks

this. the man makes the iron, not the other way around, although a good tip does help lol. hell the iron i use now is a cheap one as i don't have the room at my desk for a real solder station. i would recommend the iron to anyone starting out looking for one to learn with or use for stuff. and like you said use leaded(rosin core) solder, lead free solder is trash. little tip if using tape to hold the wire, try not to get it too close to the end of the wire or it can melt.

u/Aesomatica · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah, an 'ok' soldering iron could cost you around 15 bucks. I used this one for my whitefox.

u/ServaboFidem · 3 pointsr/guitarrepair

Just say no to big bulky solder guns. Those are for commercial wiring jobs in buildings, not for delicate things like guitar wiring. For the same money (or less) you can pick up a nice Hakko FX888D on Amazon, or for less you can get this decent little xtronic, or one of those neat little knockoff Hakko T12 units

u/pxlnght · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this. It was on sale on newegg for like $20 at one point, so I was like 'yes plz' and snagged one. Really good iron IMO, I've had it for 2 years and it's done...

  • 3 board builds (all 60%)
  • 6 desolders (5 fullsize, 1 60%)
  • A work project (soldered 10 joints on 150 PCBs)

    It's a fuckin' tank tbh. The spool thing it comes with is trash though, I threw it out immediately.
u/MrBorogove · 3 pointsr/synthdiy

Op-amps: the TL072 is one of the most widely used, it's cheap, and it works fine in most situations. It has two small drawbacks for some applications: it needs a dual supply, at least -/+5V, and it's not a "rail to rail" op-amp, so it needs some supply headroom above and below the signals you plan to put through it. Some other op-amps can do rail-to-rail with a single +3V supply, for instance, which makes them potentially easier to use with a modern low voltage MCU (some Arduinos/Teensys/etc.). But if you've got the power supply set up properly, the TL072 will be great.

Audio Out: You'll need to match voltage levels and have some sort of output driver.

If you're going to a line out (like to a mixer or stereo receiver) you want to aim for a max of about +/- 1V and you can use any old op-amp to buffer and level-shift the signal on the way out. Here's a handy worksheet for designing the level shifter.

I haven't done a headphone driver; I know different headphones have vastly different specs, and my research here has been really confusing! I do believe typical op-amps won't provide enough output current to reliably drive headphones, though -- traditionally something like an LM386 is used.

Assorted parts: If you're experimenting, just buy a big kit package of resistors, one of ceramic caps, one of electrolytic caps -- like 200-to-1000 piece kits, 10 to 20 each of 20-40 different values.

Transistors, get a handful of 2n3904 and 2n3906, those are general purpose BJTs in NPN and PNP configuration. Also some 2n5457 N-channel JFETs. 1N4148 diodes are fine for all the low-voltage signal stuff.

Check out Sparkfun or Adafruit for breadboardable switches, buttons, and other goodies. Adafruit tends to be a tiny bit more user friendly and Sparkfun a little more towards the I'm-gonna-build-a-flying-killer-robot-in-my-garage crowd. Both of them offer breadboard and jumper wire kits. I love these precut-and-color-coded-for-length wires for keeping breadboards super-tidy; others prefer the freeform jumper wires.

You're gonna want a soldering iron soon. A low-end temperature-controlled soldering station is IMO worth the money over a dumb iron; I've got an X-Tronic 3020 but other people swear by Hakko. Pick up a set of finer chisel tips than the iron comes with. A big silicone soldering mat, QuadHands, desoldering wick will come in handy too if you've got the budget for them.

u/PM_ME_A_SHOWER_BEER · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards



At 725F

u/hideme09 · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Raspberry Pi zero w



Power Connector

USB Power

Solder kit

Tower Light

Wire diagram

Code in python not the best but that I got on phone.

!/usr/bin/env python2

import RPi.GPIO as GPIO
import json
import base64
import requests
import datetime
import logging
import random
from time import sleep

logging.basicConfig(filename='ci-light.log', filemode='w', format='%(name)s - %(levelname)s - %(message)s')

RED = 17
GREEN = 22
global_state = -2
times = {
"1" : datetime.time(2, 0),
"2" : datetime.time(2, 15),
"5" : datetime.time(2, 30),
"3" : datetime.time(2, 45),
"4" : datetime.time(3, 0),
"5" : datetime.time(3, 15)

Pat= “{token}”
bauth = "Basic " + base64.b64encode(':'+pat)


def clearRed():
GPIO.output(RED, 0)
def setRed():
GPIO.output(RED, 1)
def clearGreen():
GPIO.output(GREEN, 0)
def setGreen():
GPIO.output(GREEN, 1)
def clearYellow():
GPIO.output(YELLOW, 0)
def setYellow():
GPIO.output(YELLOW, 1)
def clearLights():
GPIO.output(RED, 0)
GPIO.output(GREEN, 0)
GPIO.output(YELLOW, 0)

tests to make sure lights and relay are functioning as appropriate

def start_up():

Does little click and light dance to be passive aggressive. don't break builds

def put_on_show(times):
factor = 0.2
while (times > 0):
times -= 1
factor -= 0.015

blinks light

def blink_light(light_pin):
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)

Checks the builds for D or T then determines if broken

will need to be updated to account for unit tests being broken to change to yellow

def check_builds():
buildDefs = "http://{tfsserver}:8080/tfs/defaultcollection/Development/_apis/build/definitions"
buildsUri = "http://{tfsserver}:8080/tfs/defaultcollection/Development/_apis/build/builds?MaxBuildsPerDefinition=1&deletedFilter=excludeDeleted&queryOrder=finishTimeDescending&resultFilter=failed,succeeded,partiallySucceeded&definitions="
s = requests.Session()
s.headers.update({'Authorization': bauth})
r = s.get(buildDefs)

json1 = json.loads(r.text)
str1 = ''
for x in json1['value']:
if 'D' in x['name']:
str1 += str(x['id']) + ','
elif 'T' in x['name']:
str1 += str(x['id']) + ','
buildsUri += str1

r2 = s.get(buildsUri)

json2 = json.loads(r2.text)

state = 0


for x in json2['value']:
if x['result'] != 'succeeded':
return 1

return 0

print('starting up')

main logic loop

while (1):
sleep(3)'Checking builds')
print('Checking builds')

new_state = check_builds()

check builds

if (global_state != new_state):<br />
    global_state = new_state<br />
    print('State changed')<br />'State changed')<br />
    if (new_state == 1):<br />
            print('Broken state - check your builds')<br />
            logging.error('Broken state - check your builds')<br />
            put_on_show(12)<br />
            blink_light(RED)<br />
            setRed()<br />
    elif (new_state == 0):<br />
            print('All clear!')<br />
            put_on_show(12)<br />
            blink_light(GREEN)<br />
            setGreen()<br />
    elif (new_state == -1):<br />
            print('Unit tests are broken - check your builds')<br />
            logging.error('Unit tests are broken - check your builds')<br />
            put_on_show(12)<br />
            blink_light(YELLOW)<br />
            setYellow()<br />
else:<br />'No change')<br />

Also a random human! Good luck!

u/ProlapsedProstate · 3 pointsr/Gameboy

I bought a cheap soldering kit from Amazon for $17
Also a Dremel tool for sanding surfaces and cutting plastic

u/tmwrnj · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Pickups almost never fail - they're just a big coil of wire, there's not really anything to go wrong with them.

The first thing to check is obvious - is your volume or tone control rolled off? It sounds silly, but it's easy to overlook if you rarely use the neck pickup.

The next most likely problem is the pickup selector switch. Les Pauls use an open type of selector switch that's prone to corrosion, especially if it's infrequently used. Plug your guitar in, strum the open strings, then click the pickup selector switch up and down and listen to your amp. If you can hear crackling or intermittent sound, it's probably the selector switch.

Most switch problems can be fixed with a squirt of DeoxIT, but the switch may need to be replaced. If you can solder, it's a ten minute job and a six dollar part. If you can't solder, this is a good opportunity to learn - you can buy a basic soldering iron kit for less than $20.

Failing that, take it to a competent luthier. Guitar electronics aren't particularly complicated, so it should be a cheap and quick fix.

u/zrevyx · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

*pout* That kit has now officially dropped in price about 60% since I purchased mine just under two years ago. :-(

It's a freakin' awesome soldering station though!

Next on my list is the FR-300 or -301 desoldering gun. For now though, I'll continue to use my Engineer SS-02.

u/westfallian · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Do not get a cheap radioshack soldering iron. Get a cheap Chinese soldering iron off amazon. Something with a digital temp gauge. I’ll edit this comment with a link to the one I have later. Their are a couple different methods to this job. Some people get little angled clippers and clip the 4 legs off of the tact switch and then heat up the solder and pull out the legs this method is easy but you risk cutting into the board. The other method is to properly use a solder sucker / solder wick and desolder the old switches. Do not hold the soldering iron to this board for too long you will pull traces. Believe me I did it my first time. Soldering is not that difficult but with everything the more you practice the better you become. I think some early mistakes are using too much solder, you really don’t need a lot.

My soldering set up: Soldering iron

better solder tip cleaner

better solder sucker

better solder (reccomended)

Also if you’re soldering leaded solder indoors maybe think about your health and what you’re inhaling.
air filter

Last words: everything in that kit will get you by just fine. Personally I think the solder it comes with is garbage. I hate the cheap solder suckers and I use them so often I bought that other one. Keep your iron tips clean. This means basically run some solder on the tip and dunk it in that gold wire mesh often. If your tip is getting dark it’s getting too hot and will have a harder time flowing solder. Keep it nice and shiny.

u/TomLum · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

On the cheap ones, I do remove the iron before activating the suction. If you have a lot of desoldering to do, this one doesn’t require you to remove the tip and does a much better job.
Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker

u/synthmonger · 3 pointsr/diypedals
u/umarth7 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It really sucks.

u/w0odyallen · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

For sure. I've made my fair share of desoldering mistakes and they aren't fun. First tip, find a tool you like, some swear by wick, and some use desoldering irons, for me it was simply this desoldering pumpwhich features a silicone tip that makes it easier to create a seal. Second, don't leave the iron on the PCB for too long. Three seconds should do it. If its doesn't, take it off, find another angle, and put it down again. Leaving it on for much longer risks damaging the PCB. Third, make sure you get ALL the solder off the pin, if it looks like you got 90% save for a tiny bit touching the edge, DO NOT try to forcibly remove the switch, you risk yanking out the small metal ringlet within each hole of the PCB. Instead, reapply some solder and try sucking it up again. When a switch is properly desoldered, it should pop right out when you squeeze in the little clips on the top and bottom of the switch. Never apply tremendous force when trying to remove a switch (this usually means you haven't fully desoldered).
And finally, if you do make a mistake, it's not the end of the world. A broken switch is easy enough to replace and a damaged PCB is possible to repair just by running a wire (which means soldering a connection between the two points that were disconnected by the damage).

u/F1ForFun · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

No problem! Happy to help. I study computer science, but there's something about soldering that has always given me a greater sense of accomplishment than any code I write, so I'm happy to see your excitement towards it as well.

That's the same soldering station that I use, so you're good there. Great tip with a nice, fine point. Perfect for soldering to small pads, as you plan to. I prefer straight tips, but that's just preference and you may or may not like your chosen tip better.

You're definitely going to need some other materials. I would provide links to them all but I'm on mobile and that would be a huge pain in the ass. Things you will need:

  • Desoldering braid
  • Flux (the most important thing to have, this is worth its weight in gold)
  • Leaded solder (lower melting point, heat kills components so the less heat you have to apply the better, always)
  • 28 awg wire should work for this application

    Like I said in the list, the less heat you need the better. When you're desoldering the connector, the best way to go about this would be to put leaded solder over top of the existing solder so that they mix which will decrease the melting temperature required for the successive desoldering attempts.

    I also suggest a hot air station if you're wanting to really get into this kind of stuff. It may even be necessary for a beginner to desolder this type of connector without damaging the board, honestly. I use this hot air station and it's been fantastic.

    If you have any more questions I'll be happy to answer them.
u/maz0r · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboardsUK

That iron isnt going to win any awards, but it will probably be enough to get the job done, I personally use a TS100 these days because I can power it off my LiPo Flight battery's in the field as well as off a laptop power brick. I still have my Weller station but it's seen decades of abuse by my dad before he gave it me, so i only use it when I'm at home with lots of big solder joints to do.

Get a decent tip cleaner those sponges are worthless and will cool the iron.[1]

Make sure your solder has good quality Flux core OR or you can buy some better solder / buy flux seperatly

I personally use this but you can get stuff cheaper

I can't stress this enough, If you have never soldered before, practice tinning wires/ soldering through hole connectors until your solder joints look neat and shiny and you feel happy, buying a couple of led's headers and protoboard will save you the pain of ruining your shiny new PCB kit.
Adafruit has some nice images to help compare good/bad solder.

[1] - added comment about sponges

u/pyr0ball · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you want to go ahead with a real reflow, grab some high temperature flux and a decent heatgun that you can adjust the temperature on.

First, you'll want to mask off the other surrounding components with Kapton tape or foil tape to insulate them. Next, squirt a thin line of flux along three of the four edges of the chip. When you start heating the chip, the flux will melt and flow under the chip. Get your heat gun and start at a low output tempurature and slowly ramp it up. Eventually, you'll want to maintain a temperature of 220°C for about 30 seconds. If you dont have a diffuser to cover the entire chip evenly, you'll want to move the tip of the heatgun in a regular pattern to maintain even temperature across the chip.

After you've finished the reflow, let the card cool off slowly for about 15-30 minutes

u/Yboring · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

The process is easy, just tweeze (long handles help, it gets hot fast), torch until it glows, and cool off (15 seconds or so).

Cheap option on amazon here (&lt;$9) :;amp;qid=1395645522&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=butane+torch

RipTrippers uses this one: (has a standard cheapo lighter under the hood, $20)

I use the torch from my creme brulee kit, but a simple torch lighter would work, as well.

u/StonePotato · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4;amp;qid=1404287334&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls;amp;qid=1404288337&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge;amp;qid=1404288659&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set;amp;psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300;amp;psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.;amp;index=2&amp;amp;list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors;amp;qid=1404289491&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170;amp;psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01;amp;qid=1404289861&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503;amp;psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell;amp;psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

u/cheffmichael · 3 pointsr/cigars
u/larsoncc · 3 pointsr/crtgaming

Personally, I'd just assume all is well. Also, I'd highly recommend a good desolder tool (here's a cheap one I bought, haven't tested it yet: Also, get flux. Lots of flux.

Taking my advice on this is probably not the best advice ever, but man, I don't know how you'd test one component without soldering it to something else, which means you'd need to unsolder it twice, etc.

u/Jolly_Green_Giant · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've heard tons of good things about this, especially for the price!

u/cynicaljedi · 3 pointsr/nes

If you don't have a proper vacuum desoldering gun something like this or this is probably worth it just for this mod. It'll save you a decent amount of time and make things easier.

u/thebeano77 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/FC-TWEAK · 3 pointsr/Nerf

&gt; less than $100

Highly recommend the Hakko FX-888 Soldering station. It uses a ceramic heating element for fast recovery and instant heat-up times.

I've tried to use my cheap Radio Shack iron to rewire, results where not good. Cold welds and it took forever.

u/RedMushtoom · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Meh. For the asking price it's not a terrible deal, but the kit is low quality. I wouldn't bother with it. Get one of these instead. That offers a greater range of temperatures, and uses a digital controller.

u/Cold_Irons_Bound · 3 pointsr/guitarpedals

I’m using this one.

u/some1inmydictionary · 3 pointsr/SXSW

if you still need to get an iron, i suggest one of these: you can buy them at Altex on I35. but like the other person said, if you just need to solder one thing, SXSW Create (where the maker booth is) is free, and full of soldering irons. Opens at 11 tomorrow morning.

u/robot_mower_guy · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

This is what I have. It is awesome. It was my favorite one to use at work due to the size of the grip. I liked it so much I bought one for home.

As far as the sponge goes, get one with the hole in it like this one. You will be glad you did if you ever had to use the other type.

As far as tips go, throw away the one that comes with the station. It is a conical shape and they SUCK for soldering. Go with a chisel tip instead. I think this is the tip I use. Might want to look up a different buyer, however, as I think I usually pay about $4 for my tips. You will want a small one like that for most of your work (I have no problem soldering a small SMT IC with that chip) and a massive one for the really big, rare things.

u/KlaudeFrog · 3 pointsr/arduino

I use a Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station for pretty much everything I do, including surface mount rework. I use different tips depending on what I'm doing, small for SMD, medium for everything else. a good vise and plenty of light will help a lot. SparkFun and Adafruit tutorials are good. LadyAda of Adafruit has a soldering tutorial.

EDIT: I see others have already posted some of the links I gave. Just consider mine a second endorsement.

u/uint128_t · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

That set up will do all right.

Helping hands are good, solder looks fine (although if you do a lot of soldering you'll burn through that quickly), and the wick is fine.

One other thing you should get is some flux (probably paste or liquid, maybe someone can recommend a specific flux?). Flux makes soldering a million times easier if the parts are dirty.

Soldering iron wise, that's an alright iron. The tip it comes with is fine for large/medium components. However, consider how much soldering you plan to do. Is it a lot, possibly on small things?

Both the Weller WES51 and the Hakko FX888D are both popular, quality soldering irons. Basically, the handles are smaller (easier to control and maneuver), and the temperature is regulated (more consistent/stable). Additionally, the range of available tips with the WLC100 is not as large.

In conclusion, that's a perfectly fine setup (with the flux), but think about how much you anticipate soldering in the future and considering a higher quality soldering iron. Hope that helps.

u/PM_ME_SEXY_CODE · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Do you plan on doing plenty of soldering in the future or is this a one off job? A decent soldering iron makes a night and day difference when it comes to working on electronics. I've used the cheap $10 ones you can buy from hardware stores and they've always ended up being difficult to work with.

I'd recommend a weller WES51. They're a tad bit pricy, but you can get interchangeable tips and it's temperature controlled. I've had mine for 2 years now and it's absolutely fantastic.

You'll probably want to use some thin rosin core lead solder. You should be able to buy this at your local hardware store.

If you plan on doing any sort of reworking, copper wick is super useful for removing solder. A cheap solder sucker is also nice to have for removing larger blobs of solder.

Weller WES51 Amazon link

u/thebaldgeek · 3 pointsr/Temecula

This is the one I use (and really really like).

To be honest, it would be overkill for just hobby use (I am heavy into drones and other electronics that require a lot of soldering on a very wide range of wires and parts).

This is a great little kit that will get you started;

tl;dr I would not spend much more than about 20-30 bucks for your first one, if you use it a ton and get into electronics, you can always upgrade and keep the first one as a travel iron.

u/4thdimensionalshift · 3 pointsr/arduino

I recently purchased a Weller WES51 analog soldering station on amazon for $97, well worth the price! I use it primarily for soldering wires to small PCBs so it should work for your uses!

u/AccidentalBirth · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

For SMD and I was looking at the following:

Just looking to see if /r/AskElectronics had other suggestions for an iron, and other materials.

u/mycloakisabitofajoke · 3 pointsr/diypedals

I second this, and would like to add that you should get a halfway-decent soldering iron with adjustable heat. Using a cheap soldering iron from harbor freight or the like will just burn your hands and your heart.

I have this, and I adore it. There are higher and lower quality ones available. Just look around and check reviews and Have fun!

u/encaseme · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

I have an older Weller that I got used, this model:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1520878668&amp;amp;sr=1-5&amp;amp;keywords=weller+soldering+iron
It's a little pricey for what it is buying new, but it's really quality. I've soldered many thousands of components large and small with it. Looks like Weller has some newer models that are about the same price and probably more feature-full/powerful.

I can recommend getting a brass sponge instead of the ones you wet, it's cleaner and less hassle. I also use a solder-sucker and solder-wick-braid regularly. I also use a pair of "helping hands" with a magnifying glass, a DIY fume-extractor (PC fan with some activated charcoal filter behind it), and a small vise for holding circuit boards and such. That's just about the entirety of the things I use for general electronics mucking-with.

u/lukepighetti · 3 pointsr/DIEMs

Lots of great options. This is great if you change the temp a lot or forget to turn it off. This is great if you never change the temp (like me). This is great if you're on a tight budget.

u/Oscillope · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have the Weller WES51 and I like it a lot. I've had it for years, with no problems. Has a nice thin pencil and comes with the stand and everything. Plus an auto-shutoff mode, which is nice peace of mind.

u/FizzBitch · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

My recommendations, and what I have used for a long time. Really don't go super cheep on your iron, you will regret it:

Weller WES51

Long Conical Tip Really necessary if you are going to be building things with small components.

Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020 the link is to a full pound which you might not want to spend the money on right away. The price seems to have doubled in the last 3 months at amazon for some reason. But plenty of places sell Kester Solder

u/Gkuesmtpo · 3 pointsr/diypedals

I got this $60 for a digital soldering station is a pretty good deal I think. Works great for me. The only times I've taken off a pad was when I set the temperature too high because I'm an idiot.

u/passim · 3 pointsr/DIY

Look at Aoyue:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1320861453&amp;amp;sr=1-1

They're knock offs of hakko but they work great, and they're cheap. This is what Sparkfun uses when they setup 50 irons for makerfaire and let the general public beat on them all weekend -- and they come out unscathed. Probably more use in 2 days than most people do in a year.

u/obscure_robot · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

If you can build a Synthrotek Atari Punk Console, you can build a Shruthi-1.

The Shruthi-1 isn't hard, but you solder on both sides of both PCBs and there are a lot of parts. If you are a patient and methodical person, you shouldn't have any trouble. If you get frustrated easily, start with something simpler.

The right tools are key. Make sure you've got a PCB holder big enough to hold the Shruthi-1 boards. The Panavise 324 is a great investment if you plan on doing more DIY and repair work. A good soldering iron is key too. I started with an Aoyue 937+, but have since upgraded to a Hakko 888. Tweezers make picking individual components out of a pile much easier, and are cheap. Get a good set of small needle-nose pliers for bending resistors. Get a good set of diagonal cutters for clipping wires after soldering.

Update: The x0xb0x is a lot more work to put together, but about the same difficulty as the Shruthi.

u/EvergreenBipolar · 3 pointsr/SilverSmith

My acetylene/oxygen tanks sit in a very compact plastic holder they sell with the bottles and take up no more than about one square foot of floor space. By the time you add the regulators and come up with some way to secure the disposable bottles, I don't think you will gain much extra space.

Do you already have hand held butane torches? For simple tasks with pieces that weigh less than a half an ounce, I don't bother to use my Smith little torch.

I use this one the most.

Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch

u/Popwar0012 · 3 pointsr/vaporents

I have this guy here, I'd imagine if you turn on low it'll work since "fuel efficiency" is your thing, has a big ass tank!

u/m6a6t6t · 3 pointsr/enail

but in the end you get what you pay for non annealed china glass, her tube is small is enough to convert with an adapter imho. adapter plus banger from dhgate maybe 20-30$ torch 40 at bb&amp;b. i would honestly buy a big shot on amazoninstead. im not a fan of the bb&amp;b torches the pizo ignitor ALWAYS fails after about 9 months causing you to have to return and get a new one id rather have something last 4-6years. i have had my blazer gb2001 for 8 years now still lights everytime.

u/Dr_Dabber_Drew · 3 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

You need a quartz banger, a directional flow carb cap, and a nice butane torch if you've got the extra money for it. A propane torch will work in its place will just mess up your nail quicker. Also qtip the nail in between every hit with q tips dipped in isopropyl alcohol to keep the nail as clean as possible. Will provide better dab experience. Look up "low temp dabs" on youtube, don't ruin your concentrates by taking hot dabs. Hope this helps, happy dabbin!

Edit: fixed link

u/RealGamut · 3 pointsr/Stims

Regardless of the advice you're given here, please be aware that choosing to smoke meth VS other ROA (oral/intranasal/plugging) may give you a massive compulsion to redose (and specifically, to smoke) that is stronger than any compulsion I've personally experienced from any other drug. If you are very disciplined and have conviction about managing the role of substances in your life it can be controlled, but be mindful that this particular choice may challenge that conviction more than any other use of drugs.

That said I fukken love smoking meth. Also fuck the bic users, torches for life. I have found through much experimentation (nearly $1000 on drug paraphernalia over a year) that the most effective way to vaporize meth is completely contrary to the advice commonly found on the internet. I place direct superhot torch flame on the bottom of the bowl (while rolling and inhaling) for a fraction of a second. This causes the flame to diffuse evenly across the bottom of the glass and the bowl to flash instantly with thick vapor. If I continue in this fashion until I cannot inhale any longer, the meth cracks back with zero discoloration or any other sign of burnt meth.

This requires a hot, high pressure, large diameter nozzle torch (relative to typical tweaker torches) to really work effectively. If you don't want to drop the dinero on a Blazer Big Shot but don't mind the bulk you can head to any hardware store and grab a basic propane pencil torch for $20. Even better if you buy a hose and sparker (sometimes included).

If you aren't looking for a personal challenge or potentially much more just eat or snort your meth.

EDIT: If you are sourcing your meth on DNMs, check out Pregabalin (brand name Lyrica). It's a GABA analogue with a duration similar to Xanax that is used to treat epilepsy and neuropathic pain, but it has a lot to offer a meth user. It brings a often needed element of "chill" to the experience without disrupting the high, and perhaps more importantly it almost completely restores the appetite loss from meth.

u/Elfking · 3 pointsr/Dabs

Do yourself a huge favor and ditch those tiny-ass torches for a blazer

u/Cannaclysm · 3 pointsr/CannabisExtracts
u/thethinker247 · 3 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

BIG SHOT GT 8000 gets that nail where it needs to be in no time!!!

Edit here's a link:

u/Brostafarian · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

hakko fx-888D is my current iron. Costs a pretty penny but if you're going to be doing a lot of work it's great. It's digital, so it regulates temperature instead of power, and you can cycle between custom temperature presets or set it to whatever temperature you feel like. the nibs are a bit expensive compared to the shitty iron I had before it, but they also last a lot longer; also I got a combo deal on amazon for like 10 nibs for 15 bucks when I bought the iron

only downside is it looks like a fisher price toy

u/Kistler125 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The Hakko FX888D is going to be what the majority of people that comment here will point you to, with good reasons. Price may be a bit high but this thing will see you through all your hobbies that require soldering, honestly there is nothing bad I can say about the unit besides the fact that it’s ugly AF 😂

Weller WE1010 is what I’m currently using (Gave Hakko away to my brother) As far as I can tell there is no noticeable difference between the two, with the same heat up time, performance, etc. one thing is that this doesn’t come with a brass tip cleaner like the Hakko so you’d have to get one yourself.

u/heavymcd · 3 pointsr/Guitar

I have something similar to this guy from Hakko. You can find it a little cheaper if you shop around, and there's one with an analog temp dial versus digital that's a bit cheaper as well.

That's a proper soldering station, and it's not cheap. But you get what you pay for, like with any tool. I can say I've put a ton of use into it over several years, and it gets the job done easily. Backs of pots? Not even a hiccup.

That $40 Weller is probably decent too, but that's probably about the bare minimum you should be looking at.

I also have no idea why Hakko makes their gear look like children's toys in the US, but don't let the styling fool you...they're serious pieces of equipment. And IIRC one of the cheaper options if you're comparing similar models to Weller and such.

Edit: As for what we use in our production shop, I think we have something like these from Metcal. That's obviously overkill. But having used our stations at work and that Hakko at home, I can say the latter is just fine and you'd hardly notice the difference for the jobs you're doing.

u/Yelneerg · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have this digital Hakko station which I've been very happy with and is very popular among the DIY community

u/SteveTCook · 3 pointsr/arduino

I’ve never tried a TS100, so maybe it’s great, but just beware that buying cheap might just translate to buying twice (this translates to a lot of things in life).

I originally bought a handheld soldering iron made by Weller, a name brand, and could never get the hang of soldering. I thought it was just a skill I couldn’t pick up for years until I tried a Hakko ( soldering station, and it was so dang easy!

In trying to save money, I only caused myself frustration, and I had to buy twice instead of once. A good soldering station is more than just a hobbyist item, it’s a genuinely useful tool to have. You can fix headphones, power cables, and do all kinds of things that will save you money.

So, sorry to contradict you OP, but from experience, I recommend investing in the right tool the first time.

Edit: plus the Hakko isn’t terribly expensive itself, at $100

u/bentika · 3 pointsr/retrogaming

Aoyue is cheap but super Chinese. We use them at my work, but I would suggest a hakko.;amp;qid=1485608874&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=hakko&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41sQ1GwOT8L&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

Here's my setup, you can see my consolized game gear on my desk hah

Also, go watch some Ben heck videos if you want to learn how to solder well.

u/risknoexcuses · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

I took the plunge and bought this one . Love it and it's worked for all of my RC, 3D printing, guitar, and automotive hobbies. Well worth the investment.

u/bbartokk · 3 pointsr/modular

I tried the cheap kits. I went through frustration with irons that I thought were my fault. I ended up with this Hakko FX888D and never looked back. The temp control works great. It comes up to temp quick. The tips are very nice. I do recommend you also get some tip tinner.

u/ENGR001 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Edit: Please make sure you turn off and unplug your power supply before cutting any wires.

Parts / tool list below, this what i used but there are substitutes out there.

Note: Main thing that is slightly challenging is soldering the XT60s, basic idea is to “tin” (soldering term) the wires and the XT60s first, then heat the connector with your iron as you put the wire in to get a good fusion. Decent video on soldering them:solder XT60s

My soldering Iron:;psc=1

Soldering Flux:;psc=1

Solder (60-40);psc=1

New XT-60’s and Shroud:;psc=1

Helping Hands (not required, but def helpful);psc=1

Bought this a while ago, but any heat shrink will do:;psc=1

Wire - If you’re new to soldering and need practice, or you’re going to split your cables for Rasberry Pi, or other components, etc:;psc=1

u/Eisenstein · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

  • DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)

  • clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp

  • variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one

  • 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind

  • desolder braid

  • rosin flux

  • contact cleaner

  • (de-oxit d-5)[]

  • flush cutters

  • solder sucker

  • shrink tube of various diameters

  • 92%+ isopropyl alcohol

  • windex

  • q-tips

  • paper towels

  • needle nose pliers

  • nice set of phillips head screwdrivers

  • standard screwdriver

  • miner's headlamp

  • digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly

  • printer for printing service manuals

  • heat gunor hair dryer

  • canned air

    EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.

    All I can think of right now.
u/CanadianGandalf · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'm pretty new to soldering, but I picked up a Hakko FX-888d and love it. It's got 300+ great Amazon reviews and only costs $100. Any complaints I saw were about it being complicated to set the temp, but this was not my experience at all.

Edit: Yeah, the color makes it look like a toy... But I assure you it is not.

u/Falcrist · 3 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

A calculator: TI36X Pro, Casio fx-115ES PLUS, or HP 35s (these are the 3 best calculators allowed on the FE and PE)

If you get a graphing calculator, either get the TI-84 Plus C (which can be used any time graphing calculators are allowed), or get an HP Prime or TI Nspire CS CAS (which are WAY more powerful and useful).

Pencils: Pentel Graphgear 1000, Pentel Kerry, Rotring Rapid Pro (include an eraser such as the Sakura Foam Eraser). The rapid pro pen is also pretty popular.

If he's doing a software/computer engineering degree, get him a copy of K&amp;R2.

If he's doing electrical/electronics engineering, he'll benefit from a nice soldering station, a multimeter, or a used oscilloscope (such as a Rigol DS1052e).

I can't give much advise for mechanical and civil. Sorry.

Oh yea, the paper is useful... especially with some pressboard report covers. They make nice notebooks (albeit expensive), and pair really really well with looseleaf textbooks.

The HP is more expensive, but it looks like a tool that professional engineers use when they're not in front of a computer. I ended up getting an HP prime, so I never could justify a 35s

u/amdcursed · 3 pointsr/OpenPV

My Aoyue lasted about 5 months, it was covered under warranty but all they did was send me a replacement board that I need another iron to install. Spend the extra cash and get a Hakko:;amp;qid=1420504863&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=hakko

u/eccentricworkshop · 3 pointsr/soldering

You certainly can use that soldering gun but it won't be fun or easy because it is so large (that's what I started with and used for a few years). I'd suggest picking up a Hakko FX-888D or Hakko FX-951 if you have a desire to continue with electronics.

Definitely add more solder because it has flux in it which will clean the oxides and allow the solder to flow out. You will also need to use a bit of solder wick/desoldering braid to clean up the pad before fixing it. You'll want to get some Kester leaded solder to work with.

Watch these Pace soldering tutorials before you begin to understand the basics. Heat the pad and wire then touch the solder wire to the joint. If you add it to the tip of the gun/iron the flux will burn away and it will start to oxidize. Doing it that way certainly has it's place but it isn't for this type of work as you'll need to add extra flux to protect the joint.

u/Leviathant · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

I used cheap soldering irons for years. Over a decade. I always felt like an idiot, because I'd watch tutorials online and it looked so much easier, and I just couldn't seem to get the process down right.

So this year, I decided to drop some money on a proper iron - - and WHY OH WHY DID I NOT DO THIS A DECADE AGO. It makes ALL the difference in the world.

I cannot emphasize this enough: Spare yourself frustration, save up extra money and buy a Weller or a Hakko. It may seem like a lot of money compared to a $20 Radio Shack style soldering iron, but you're basically buying it for life.

u/_imjosh · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

This is my go to list for what you need for soldering:

hakko soldering iron w/ diagonal cutters $91

hakko diagonal cutters $4.37

solder $7

solder sucker $6

solder flux $8 check digikey

solder wick $7
check digikey

wire strippers $10

helping hands $7 check harbor freight

check for lower price

One of the hakko clone stations paired with some genuine hakko tips is probably a good compromise on price/value. Maybe someone else that's from the UK could suggest something different that's also affordable there.

u/techyg · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

Brass all the way. This one is only $10. There are other ones that are cheaper that I have used, but I like the Hakko one best. It only costs as much as a few bags of props. I "dip my tip" before every joint and I have consistent heat and a good tin. A cleaner also helps extend the life of your soldering iron tip and heating element. The problem with using a wet sponge is that it cools the tip down every time and the iron has to heat back up to temp. This probably isn't a huge deal for occasional use, but for frequent use this constant heating/cooling cycle can cause the tip to wear out prematurely. A sponge is also more prone to holding contaminants unless you are regularly swapping it out. For example, if you have some excess solder the blobs will build up in the sponge. With a brass cleaner, they will drop down to the bottom and about once a month you can pull the brass out, and empty the holder in the trash. I started out using a wet sponge, and I also noticed that my tip didn't seem to get as clean as when I switched over to the brass cleaner.

For the majority of people just doing the occasional build I don't think there is anything wrong with a wet sponge. But if you are doing a lot of other electronics work or building / repairing more frequently, it's a good idea to get a cleaner.

u/Banjerpickin · 3 pointsr/diypedals;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=JQJM1RVZMHS0H0J1QZ2M

This cleans my solder tip amazingly well. I use the sponge to wipe down debris, then run it through the wire and it looks brand new.

u/just_add_coffee · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Drop what you're doing and order this.

u/RevClamJuice · 2 pointsr/SwitchHaxing

If you're interested in getting into soldering, get a few cheap kits like battery powered light up gadgets and the like. They're usually around like $10, so it's not that big a deal if you break them while you're learning to solder. Next, a hands free solder station and a proper soldering iron make all the difference. The hands free option is the cheapest of the cheap and the iron is just a personal preference. Being able to control the heat of your iron and keep your board accessible is super useful. I ruined a couple of PS2s being cock-sure with an $8 iron and no practice.

u/--Steak · 2 pointsr/MGTOW
  <br />

Had some free time so I wrote this:

If anyone wants to do Soldering,

  • I highly suggest watching a few Youtube videos on techniques on how to hold it the right way.

  • Buy a GOOD IRON (Weller or Hakko) NOT a cheap one!

  • Buy a station to rest the Iron on if it does not already come with it (A sponge is recommended)

  • Safety glasses and roll your sleeves up, just in case!

  • Buy a smoke absorber with a carbon filter, OR! build your own with a old phone charger as a power source, a switch, a cheap car filter and a old computer case fan... your making electronic gizmos anyways... WHY?: Because breathing Tin and Lead is fucking cancerous, and blowing it away without a filter is how you get pets, kids, or bacon to inhale cancer too.

  • Have a clear space to work with no combustible materials, avoid burning down your place.

  • ESD grounding wristband, I know it's lame. But It will save you a static shock, which could potentially result in a dead component on a board.. Also you should have one of these if you build your own PC. A $2.00 part can save you HUNDREDS

  • Remember to use the right size tip for the job, and to clean your Iron's tip after using it to prolong it's life.

  • If you cant afford these basics, either don't go out this weekend, and save up for them. Or find someone who does have these things that you can borrow.


    Soldering is extremely fun, rewarding, can motivate you about electronics, save you money, and convinces your friends to think you are some kind of "fire stick-wand wielding wizard of electronic black magic" (+7 to charisma!).

    But remember to solder safely!
u/thepensivepoet · 2 pointsr/Guitar

If you're including fret dressing :

leveling file

crowning file

end dressing file is nice to have, too

notched straight edge

various grit sanding pads

Those are pretty much the primary "big" items and you could find cheaper versions away from StewMac but I like to buy good tools once rather than shitty tools twice.

There are other little things like having a neck rest that aren't absolutely critical and can be replaced with a firm pillow or foam block for free

A good quality soldering iron

u/Dropouter · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Doing my first build and keep hearing about solder temperature. What is a good temperature for soldering switches on a board. Solder i'll be using looks to be [this] (;amp;qid=1520171074&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=hakko+solder)

I appreciate any other soldering guidance as well.

Thanks for any replies!

u/LD_in_MT · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Soldering iron:

Edit: most people recommend getting a chisel tip for the soldering iron. Big tips for big jobs, small tips for small jobs. Just having the pencil tip and one chisel will get you by for a long time.

Desoldering braid:

Desoldering pump:

You want both the pump and the braid. Get thin solder for electronics. You should probably use lead-free, but I like good old 60/40.

There are a ton of suggestions on multimeters. The exact right one for you depends on what you eventually want to do. Dave Jone's EEVBlog has some good suggestions. As does Adafruit. Anything Adafruit recommends isn't too far off the mark. If you just want a suggestion: Extech EX330 for $45 Cheaper ones will do the job, but this is a better one. The next step up are True RMS meters for about $100.

u/futureoldperson · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi
u/Ophidios · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Whoo, loaded question with tons of opinions, hah.

The "best" lube is highly subjective, and it also depends on the type of switch. If you're lubing linear switches, my personal favorite is VPF 1514 oil. It's not cheap, but it gets the job done (you can order smaller quantities of it from Mehkee. For tactile switches, I use Krytox GPL 205 (which you used to be able to buy DuPont brand on Amazon, but no longer appears to be available).

Best solder for building keyboards is Kester, 0.8mm, hands down. Quality stuff, flows and bonds well, and the size is good for switches or LEDs.

Soldering iron recommendations: This cheap kit is acceptable for building a keyboard (I built 4 or 5 with it prior to upgrading). If you know you're going to be building multiple kits, and you think it's possible you might do re-work or try to desolder boards, just go ahead and spend the money right the first time and get this one: Hakko FX888D. Basically the gold standard of soldering irons.

u/ImArchimedes · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

This is really all I needed to be happy and dangerous. I was actually just doing more research when I saw your reply come though. I just didn't know if it was even possible to wire these connections. My basic understanding is that it should be possible but there's so much I don't know.


As for my soldering skills, they are probably "Beginners moderate" which is a thing I just made up. I've got the right gear to do the work but, as I'm sure you know, having the right gear is 10% of the job. Burned through 2 Teensy ++ 2.0's before I got it right with my last project.


And I'm totally comfortable ruining some more hardware to try this. I'm actually excited by the prospect. I think I kept those teensy's. If I can find them, I'll practice by trying to remove the smt micro usb ports on those. Not nearly as hard but a better start.


Anyway, really appreciated the reply. If you have the time to confirm I'm trying this with the right hardware, that would be just gravy. You've already done more than enough, though.


I'm planning on using my:

- Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station

- T18-BR02 Tip

- and the thinnest solder I could find that still has a rosin core


Anything look like the wrong choice? Tip and rosin?


Thanks again for all the help

u/HACKW0RTH · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Weller Digital: Best Iron I've Ever Used (money is no object, used these in my last job that required a lot of PCB soldering)

Weller Analog: Also Great (I used these in grad school... work great, reliable and consistent irons)

Hakko Digital: Come Recommended (These irons offer some of the functionality of the higher end Wellers but in a much more affordable package. Have not personally used, but come highly recommended as budget option).

u/aaronstj · 2 pointsr/modular

Do not buy a cheap soldering iron to start out with, you will just end up having to replace it. Buy either a Hakko or Weller soldering station, and you'll be fine.

u/CynicalTree · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Below $50? Get a Weller

Closer to $100? Hakko FX888D is hard to beat. This model is the one I use - Never had any issues with it. I don't know if it's changed over the years, main downside to this model was it needs an admin card inserted to change the temperature. Kinda annoying if you can't find the card.

Comes with a nice tip + sponge though and the holder is pretty solid too. It's mostly just a QOL difference though, I doubt you'd notice a significant difference in performance unless you're quite experienced.

u/finnister77 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I'm just gonna put this out there....for another $40 you can get a great soldering station

Not sure if portability is an issue for you. For what it's worth, I have a cordless soldering iron I never use. Not really making those field repairs I thought I might be

u/TramStopDan · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I recently got the Hakko f888d, maybe a little expensive but holy shit soldering is so much simpler now.

u/wilciws · 2 pointsr/Authentic_Vaping

This is the one I see recommended at openpv all the time. I would buy this one myself, I'm just using a junky 40w from radio shack.;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;amp;keywords=Hakko&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41sCMxh%2BAYL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

u/noicedream · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

i'm gonna go with what everyone else says: get a decent temp adjusting iron. it makes a world of a difference...add to that a small chisel tip (usually not provided on a cheap pen iron)...such much easier and enjoyable soldering. though, its not worth spending 80-300 dollars on a soldering iron for one project..

i use/recommend:

  • an x-tronic station/iron $90 sponge+light/magnifier+tips+replacement heat element

  • a hakko soldering tip cleaner $10

    also another good affordable iron:

  • hakko fx-888 station/iron $90 sponge+cleaner

    everyone says weller...and its because they dropped the money on one and want other people to do the same haha...if you have the money, sure go for it. if not, many stations in the 80-100 range are excellent quality to begin on.

    also get a helping hand, tweezers, needle nose pliers, snips, and maybe a wire stripper.
u/schorhr · 2 pointsr/arduino

Well, an adjustable soldering station is the minimum, and there are a few $20 soldering stations that are OK for occasional use; For $80-$100 you'll get something that'll last a lot longer :-);amp;qid=1463187980&amp;amp;sr=8-17&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+station /;amp;qid=1463188072&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+station+mini;amp;qid=1444332307&amp;amp;ref_=sr_1_2&amp;amp;s=industrial&amp;amp;sr=1-2

You can even get soldering irons for under $2 at Aliexpress. Enough to occasionally solder two wires together; But especially the cheaper soldering irons have horribly build-quality and tips that don't last long. :-)

Also, i recently bought a small tip no-name one for school use,;amp;qid=1463188072&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+station+mini (I don't know if this one is actually identical), which works surprisingly well (at least better than the $20 ones).

For your child:


Electronics: Really do get "getting started in electronics", such a good introduction, the comic-y drawings make it easy to understand how and why electronics work.

u/league_of_fail · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The Hakko FX-888D runs $100 on Amazon.

I bought this one for $30 and found temp settings in the reviews. Setting marker 3.25-3.75 gets you right around 350°C, coincidentally.

I also bought that cheap-ass Valstar solder sucker with free wick. From what I read about the wick, it needs flux to get the solder flowing into it. The solder sucker sucked. I ended up taking a Dremel deburring bit to create a divot in the metal housing to capture the little arms so it wouldn't spring apart when I hit the plunger release. After that, it worked pretty well, though I usually got a pretty good seal right over the solder and switch leg - no desoldering controllers. I did have one switch leg that was bent over the contact, which required some physical assistance to move while the solder was melted before I could clear it.

Desoldering wick looks like it works great and would work for your situation, if you use it right.

u/tttanner · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have a Hakko FX-888 and I love it. I don't think you should worry about a digital or analog display.

u/Thwop · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you already own a couple of customs, go Hakko or go home.

Pick that up, and some small gauge Kester 63/37, and you're good to go.

u/a455 · 2 pointsr/arduino

You can't go wrong with a Hakko FX-888D soldering station, about $100. It's good quality, hard to kill, and he will use it.

u/insta · 2 pointsr/Reprap

Heated PCBs are hard anyway because they are a weird combination of heatsinking and thermally insulative. If you are ever going to solder a second thing, just get a good Hakko or something. I have the analog version of the linked iron, and love it. I leave it at 350C constantly ... it gets to temp in like 20 seconds and holds it rock solid.;amp;qid=1421772043&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pebp=1421772044939&amp;amp;peasin=B00AWUFVY8


I'd highly suggest you plunk down and get both. You'll feel like a wizard from now on with soldering. For the flux pen, just drown your connections, wire, pads, etc in flux before soldering. Within a very generous reason, you cannot overflux things, and it makes the solder actually behave like it should. It globs where it's supposed to, doesn't make those stupid little peaky points that bridge everywhere, and so on.

u/jdanna · 2 pointsr/Multicopter
u/puddsy · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

the hakko fx888d has been the standard for budget soldering irons for years

u/TwinkleTwinkie · 2 pointsr/Defcon

I agree with pretty much everything said here except I prefer a different iron:;amp;qid=1501705119&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=hakko+fx888d

Hakko FX-888D. Not inexpensive but not the most expensive either. One of the best irons I have ever worked with, was a night/day experience compared to prior cheapo irons I'd used in the past.

u/falgorr · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used these guides to help plan and build this.

I got the majority of my keyboard parts such as the diodes, case/plates, pcb, and TRRS jack/cable from, and sourced the pro micro and switches from mehkee.

The Let's Split and the Nyquist are basically the same, but instead the Nyquist has the extra row, allowing numbers to be on the base layer.

Before starting the build, you'd want to get an adequate soldering iron. I didn't have the funds to get a Hakko FX888D when I got into this with my Clueboard, so I instead bought a Station 60 and a 2.4mm Chisel tip to replace the included tip. Don't forget the solder wire! I used some old solder wire that I found laying around, but something like Kester 44 63/37 solder wire will serve you well. Fairly thin solder wire around .031" will be adequate, but some people use thinner ones; it's all preference. Just avoid lead-free solder, they are a pain to solder with. If you think you will mess up, I recommend either getting some soldering wick or a desoldering pump. I heard that desoldering irons are also pretty good, but I never tried one to give a proper opinion.

Then you want to check out a tutorial regarding soldering, if you don't know how to do it already. I learned from EEVblog (warning: it's a lengthy video!), but you can probably find some other video about it.

After you have all your parts and double checked the parts list, you can start building. It's pretty much just following the guides step by step. The Let's Split guide that I linked is the most detailed for the build process, but the official Nyquist one seems to still be under construction at the time I am writing this. If you have any trouble, you can contact bakingpy here on reddit or on, or just make a thread here or on /r/olkb. Someone will help answer your questions!

Without the keycaps, I spent around $75 on the project. Overall, around $150.

Edit: cost

u/Call_me_Deth · 2 pointsr/Multicopter
u/EricandtheLegion · 2 pointsr/diypedals

For frame of reference, I am also BRAND NEW to this hobby. Been poking around for maybe 2 weeks tops. Before this, I had never even seen a soldering iron in person.

How much of an investment is a huge investment for you? If you can stomach around 100 bucks, this package has ALMOST everything you need. The only addition I would make is this 10 dollar cleaning station.

As far as learning technique, check out this series of videos, particularly the soldering and de-soldering ones.

u/vabann · 2 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

velcro strap for battery! 300mm if you're wrapping around the entire quad

clear double-stick Gorilla Tape

also [this](
s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464845046&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=hakko) soldering iron tip cleaner is freaking awesome

poster putty for soldering stuff, way better than helping hands

u/jedimasterben128 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Ok, so there are a lot of things I'd probably change :)


Motors - SabotageRC Booty 2306-2300kV, they're cheaper and significantly higher quality than the DYS you're looking at (they are made by DYS, as well, but with much higher quality components and build quality)


ESC - beware Racerstar. Some things they OEM and you get a good product for a good price, but others you get significant drops in quality. I would pay a few cents more apiece and get Spedix ES-20 Lite ESCs.


VTX - the one you selected is decent, but your soldering skills need to be up to par, the wires come undone from the VTX extremely easily and are incredibly difficult to reattach. I would recommend a few dollars more to get an AKK VTX with either larger pads or a connector.


VTX antennas - There are better ones out there. Lumenier Axii is one of the best and most durable (and significantly lighter), pagoda antennas being slightly better in some regards but more fragile.


Radio - The Turnigy Evolution is about the same price now and is a better choice than the FS-i6. Still uses the Flysky AFHDS2A protocol, so it will work with the receiver you selected (and there are now others that are good, as well). If the phonebook style radio appeals to you, then the i6 is the only cheap choice, but keep in mind it is a CHEAP radio, not an inexpensive one.


Wire - I would suggest ordering some 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 gauge wire from Hobbyking (as much as they suck, they're the only place that sells lengths of wire inexpensively). Getting 1m of each wire in both black and red should only be 10-15 bucks IIRC.


Power supply for charger - get a supply that is at least 19v and 200 watts, like this: it is a few dollars more, but you can also run your charger at its full output, which will come in handy for charging your batteries in a timely fashion.


Soldering iron - get a quality one, you're going to need it.


You should also get some no-clean flux:


Decent solder:


And a tip cleaner:


That should get you well on your way - still on a budget, but you'll hate yourself WAY less when you go to build it and have decent equipment. :)

u/zjsk · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I got this kit. [Vastar Full Set 60W 110V Soldering Iron Kit] (

I ended up getting a few other things and a better solder sucker after a few jobs.

[Hakko 599B-02 Solder Tip Cleaning Wire and Holder] (

[Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker] (

The sucker was totally worth the extra cost.

u/oddmanero · 2 pointsr/diypedals

it will get you started, for sure. this is a very comprehensive kit for an absolute beginner, but it lacks in quality of components.

i bought what seems to be another version of the exact same kit, my soldering iron looks the same, the solder sucker, multimeter, tweezers, wire cutter and multitool.

my issues with this kit: the soldering iron tips seem like they're extremely low quality; i've soldered 3 or 4 pedals and i've had to change the tip (thankfully there are a few different/replacement tips in there). the solder is nothing to write home about; my dad has since gifted me some proper, thin, good quality 63-37 solder. he also gave me a brass tip-cleaner (like this: )

whenever i move out of this tiny apartment i'll certainly spring the extra cash for a soldering station setup from a reputable brand (weller, hakko)

u/tehDustyWizard · 2 pointsr/Nerf

Sure, though I can't vouch for the quality of any of those items. A cheap soldering iron can make the job more difficult.

I would also suggest one of these for cleaning solder off the tip between soldering items, and good solder like this. Again, cheap solder will make any job ten times harder.

Of course, that kit is dirt cheap at 20$, maybe just give it a shot and see what happens.

u/kaliwraith · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

Looks like you got an even cheaper iron that looks very similar, but wanted to mention I just got this soldering iron and I'm very happy with it.

Also, I got some soldering wick, which I much prefer to the solder-sucker. My mind was blown by how much easier my life got with solder wick.

I also got one of these, which is nice.

u/MakesWebsites · 2 pointsr/soldering

Make sure to tin your tip and keep it clean. You can wipe it off on a wet sponge, or get a tip cleaner. I use that tip cleaner, and for $9 it's awesome.

u/Waahstrm · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Some will recommend the Engineer SS-02. I prefer the Soldapullt.

There's also this, but I haven't tried it myself. It's apparently good too.

I would buy some decent soldering wick just in case, for those stubborn pads. 99% of the time you won't need it in my experience though, given how big switch holes are.

u/0culus_ · 2 pointsr/diyelectronics

I initially got one similar to that and it’s junk. Get this one instead. It pulls a much stronger vacuum than those plastic ones and the replaceable silicone tip lets you get right onto the work without melting anything.

u/Moosewing · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here's every desoldering tool I've used so far, from worst to best:

  1. The one that came with my soldering station: lasted a week before falling apart.
  2. The one I bought from radioshack. Lasted 2 weeks before falling apart.
  3. ECG J-045-DS: Awkward to use, doesn't suck very well, no temperature adjustment, takes a long time to heat up, sprays hot solder everywhere instead of solid chunks like with the non-powered pumps.
  4. Tenma 21-8240: Recommended by someone on this sub. Has similar issues to the ECG, except it's far less awkward to use and it does have decent suction. However, the handle is poorly insulated so it gets pretty hot after a while.
  5. Engineer SS-02: Biggest issue with this one is dry solder getting stuck in the silicone nozzle, but that's been happening less and less as I've used it more. Good suction, good construction, no need to use a second outlet.
u/Lanreix · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Depends on your budget. The best solder sucker that I've found is this. It's more expensive, but works much better than the few other common ones that I've tried.

For soldering irons I've seen a number of recommendations for the TS100 (and similar models). There is also the classic choice of the Hakko F-888D (which is what I have). You should pick something appropriate for your budget.

u/ns90 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you want to stay cheap, go with one of these, but a gun would definitely be better. These are a bitch to desolder.

u/RedHawk02 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Buy this and it'll be just about as easy taking them out as putting them in, once you've got the hang of it. I had it down using the cheapo one that cheap soldering kits come with but I actually enjoy desoldering with this one.

/u/emenelopee Sick board btw!

u/Ailurion · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Honestly I got a cheap one like that and I hated it, it was a nightmare. Someone recommended I get the Engineer instead and it was night and day:;amp;qid=1481839367&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=engineer+solder

Three times the price, but worth every penny. If you do not intend on doing a lot of desoldering, then it's probably not worth the extra investment.

u/Kevin_Wolf · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

I had to go out to the garage and look, that's the same company, but not the right model. Mine is a little different than what Adafruit sells. It's an SS-02. I really love it.

u/Woovie · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Also available on Amazon.;amp;psc=1

It's a bit more, but hey guaranteed shipping timeframe so it's worth it to me. Thanks for the tip, I've been using wick and about to do a 104 key, let's hope this baby lasts through that.

u/superuser41 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards has gotten very good reviews but is $20 more expensive. Adafruit also recommends and sells it. Personally I’m having a hard time resisting getting a vacuum desoldering station.

u/sd59fifty · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I own this kit and it works great! Solder sucker wasn't too good so I got [this]
(;amp;psc=1) to go with it.

u/rich-creamery-butter · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

You're getting some great advice here, and I'm glad you're enjoying the process of learning to solder! I thought I'd copy a previous post of mine going over my favorite fluxes. Maybe it'll be useful to you as well!


Certainly not the same. Over time you'll acquire a number of fluxes that you use for different things. You'll want different types depending on the kind of soldering you're doing, or if you're trying to ensure compatibility (i.e. with a flux-cored solder) between fluxes. I mostly use no-clean but rosin fluxes are great. You're supposed to clean them off but there are plenty of 30 year old boards with rosin flux residue on them that work fine. A note on flux pens, I personally hate them. I'm referring to the ones that are built like those paint markers with the tip you need to push in to get it to flow. Very overpriced for the amount of flux and they never work right. Bonkote brush pens are the best, but unfortunately expensive. They are however refillable and the brush tips are replaceable and relatively cheap. The cheap dispenser bottles work great as well but for very thin fluxes are easier to make a mess with.

Here are my go-to fluxes:

  • MG Chemicals RA Flux - This is a classic. Cheap, very effective. Very sticky and easily clogs flux pens/dispenser bottles, but great stuff.

  • MG Chemicals No-clean Paste Flux - Great stuff, I prefer it to the Chip Quick paste flux although that's also quite good and a little more tacky. This is a thicker flux than the liquid rosin stuff, good for removing bridges and such. I transfer any flux that comes in a syringe to a 3mL syringe. Smaller syringe means you use less force to get more pressure, easier to dispense from small needles. Stick 2 syringes together - nose to nose - with a half inch length of silicone tubing. Let's you get maximum flux volume without entrapped air that will cause oozing.

  • Kester 186 RMA Flux - Slightly less active than the MG Chemicals RA but very good. Thinner and easier to dispense. Side note, this seller (Tekline) also has a great eBay store. Only way to get some of these fluxes without buying a gallon of flux or one of those shitty overpriced flux pens.

  • Edsyn FL22 No-clean Paste Flux - By far the best paste flux I've ever used. Nothing comes close for removing difficult solder bridges. It's not cheap though so I reserve it for tough situations.

  • Kester 959T No-clean - Great general purpose no-clean flux. Very thin, like water. It's a true no-clean flux if a board goes through a reflow cycle - it completely disappears if you don't overdo it. It's also excellent for dip-soldering if you use a solder-pot, which is what it is intended for (wave-soldering).

    I have a water soluble flux that I use as well Kester 2331-ZX but you must clean all traces of it off before you put boards into service, so it only comes out rarely.

    Flux - like solder - is one of those things that seems expensive when you buy the good stuff, but unless you're a CM buying drums of it the cost-per-use is so low that it makes no sense to fuss with the cheap shit IMHO.

    And speaking of flux, if you want clean shiny boards then consider getting some flux remover. The best I've used so far is Techspray E-line Universal Cleaner. Used to use MG Chemicals Heavy Duty Flux Remover but this beats the pants off it - does the job in 5 minutes where the MG would take half an hour. Rosin-fluxes clean easily unless you reflow them or let them get baked on. No-clean fluxes don't usually need to be cleaned - hence the name - but if you use rosin flux to rework a board (i.e. solder through-hole parts onto a board that was reflowed with no-clean) and then use bad flux remover, the no-clean will turn into a white powdery film that's very unattractive and hard to clean. Thus a good flux remover is handy.

    If you're careful with it you can really stretch it out. I recommend against the aerosol cans of flux remover. While they can work well they're expensive and very wasteful, and by the time you clean off a particularly challenging flux you'll have emptied the $20 can.

    EDIT: One little trick that most EEs I've met aren't aware of - pick up a little bit of straight phosphoric acid. It works like magic if you ever need to solder to bare aluminum, steel, or stainless steel. You could probably use an acid flux (usually intended for plumbing) but I can't imagine it being any better than regular old cheap phosphoric acid. You'll never get regular flux and solder to wet steel, but this makes it just as easy as soldering anything else.
u/jwhat · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

As others have said, SMD hand soldering is very doable. I just want to add BUY SOME GOOD NO CLEAN FLUX. Paste flux is the most fun you can have with a syringe outside of heroin. Really it makes everything easier. Just make sure to give a good alcohol cleaning afterwards to get off residue.

u/knohbody · 2 pointsr/consolerepair

The soldering station you're looking at will be fine for replacing capacitors. Its adjustable, which will come in handy when you want to further your skills. Get some extra tips, and find some fine point ones. I like to use long conical ones, as well as long small flat ones.

As other posters have said, you want to practice on something you don't necessarily want to keep. Find something cheap from a thrift store and take it apart.. an old clock radio, vcr, something of that sort. Then identify the capacitors and give it a go. Once you get the hang of it, try on the genesis.

Solder - you want some 60/40 solder (60%tin 40%lead). Stay away from acid core, its not for electronics. Find this in a thin gauge, you'll have a better time with it.

Flux - nice to have around. On some joints, the old solder doesn't really like to flow all that well. You can put some flux on it, and it'll flow a bit better. Use it on the new joint as well. There's several different types, and you can get lost in it, but you really want a liquid or gel type flux that is "no clean". I still give it a rinse with alcohol and a brush after I'm finished, but it cleans up way easier than regular flux. Here's what I use : MG Chemical's Paste flux

You will also need something to remove the old solder from the holes. Tools like this Vacuum pump and desoldering wick like Desoldering wick are good for removing the old solder.

As for the actual removal and replacement of the capacitors, I usually heat up one side from the bottom of the board, and rock the cap so it slides out a bit, then do the other side, working the cap out a little at a time. After that I clear the hole with a vacuum pump (while heating the solder up, get the vacuum pump as close as possible and press the button) or the desoldering wick (put the wick on top of the solder, then heat both, pull the soldering iron and the wick off at the same time, lest you pull up traces - This takes a bit more practice to perfect)

Make sure you put the new capacitor in correctly. Electrolytic caps are polarized. You want to make sure positive goes to positive and negative to negative. Look at the cap before you remove it. Most boards are marked, but no reason to risk the board being marked wrong.

Make sure the caps you're using are the proper rating. A general rule is the capacitance needs to be the same (farad rating), and the voltage rating needs to be at least the rated, but can be higher with no ill effects.

Its late and I'm rambling. Hope this helps.

u/HeadOfMax · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

60/40 rosin core should be good.

Alpha Fry AT-31604 60-40 Rosin Core Solder (4 Ounces)

Use solder wick and a wide tip to clean the old solder off

NTE Electronics SW02-10 No-Clean Solder Wick, #4 Blue, .098" Width, 10' Length

Use lots flux. Coat the area before you use the wick and again before you solder. It helps bond the solder to the metal.

MG Chemicals No Clean Flux Paste, 10 ml Syringe

A good iron helps so very much. This is what I have

Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station

However this should do for occasional use

Vastar 60W 110V Welding Soldering Iron with Adjustable Temperature Dial, 5pcs Interchangeable Different Soldering Iron Tips and Solder Tube for Soldering Repaired Usage, Blue

When you are done clean with 90% or above isopropyl alcohol and let dry before you use.

Watch some videos on how to use the wick. Its a great tool to have and works so much better than the crappy suckers.

u/Soonermandan · 2 pointsr/TinyWhoop

Yeah if it came with a kit it's probably lead-free. I'd just get a pound of 63/37 or 60/40 tin/lead rosin core solder, small diameter. Kester is my go-to. Super easy to work with and a pound should last you years. This is my go-to flux. Pricey but the two in combination actually make soldering enjoyable.

u/PlumpCigarsTX · 2 pointsr/cigars

Why not both? Literally. The 503Torch does both a torch and soft flame. Although, I rarely use it for a torch since I have a Vertigo Cyclone torch.

What I have started doing lately is toast the foot with my torch and then switch over to a soft flame to finish lighting it. I have found that I get a great burn that way and don't overdo it lighting it with the torch.

u/bobgengeskahn · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):

  • Small screwdriver set OR Hex set OR a combo set. Which one will depend on the RBA you get, but eventually you'll probably find yourself with ones that have Phillips and Hex screws.
  • Butane Torch. You can get this same one on Fasttech for $4 if you don't mind the shipping time.
  • Wire cutters, either full size or micros
  • Pliers, I also have a set of channel locks accessible, but not in my normal kit, mainly to try and get my Bombshell Stinger apart
  • A generic desk light or something like helping hands can save a lot of headaches.
  • Cheap multimeters can be found from $5 - $20
  • Exacto knife because knives always come in handy at some point (rule #9)

    Other generic stuff:

  • Toothpicks (great for wrapping coils around)
  • Cotton swabs, cotton balls and paper towels
  • Bic lighter
  • Scissors for cutting wick (I use the wire cutters, but if you have micros, 3mm wick might get messy/frayed)
u/jdub922 · 2 pointsr/cigars

I put this here because I didn't want to make a new post and I'm too lazy to filter through Reddit's shitty search feature. Anyone have experience with the 503 Torch Lighter? My ScorchTorch recently took a shit and I need a new lighter.

u/thawhizkid · 2 pointsr/cigars

Not sure if this will show up for you but Dream Garden has it for 12.99 at the moment, with 2 day shipping.

u/project_twenty5oh1 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I went on a little shopping spree for my DIY/rebuildable stuff. Picked up the following:

5 glass beakers, 50-1000ml
4 oz amber glass boston round bottles, pack of 12
2x pack of 6 2oz amber bottles w/droppers
2x 2pack 8oz amber bottles
[labels for bottles] (;amp;psc=1)
100count transfer pipettes
2 10 packs of 5ml blunt tip syringes
Heated ultrasonic cleaner (for quick steeping)

100ft A1 32 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 30 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 28 AWG kanthal
12ft 2mm braided hollow Ekowool
Pair of locking hemostats
butane pencil torch (for torching ekowool)
This genius little invention - everyone should buy this, it was like six bucks

other than that, a couple anyvape mini davide glass clearos because the protank 2 group buy I organized will likely not have a replacable drip tip, and I need at least 2 mini glass tanks that can take my bds60 from captivape.

i need me a fucking workshop, not sure where I'm going to put all this stuff...

u/jsprada · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi


Also, when you are re-soldering... The key is to heat the part you are soldering, then add solder to the hot joint. You let the hot joint melt the solder, not the iron. If the parts being soldered don't get hot enough, they will not form a good bond. You've now learned the hard way.

It takes practice to learn how to solder, as it does to desolder. I would suggest practicing on an old printer or some other scrap device first.

u/The_Geoff · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's just called a desoldering iron, I was sleepy when I wrote the previous comment haha. I use this one and it's great. It just combines the iron and solder sucker into one much more effective tool.

u/pabloescobyte · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Those are fine but honestly you don't need all those extra bit and bobs.

Just get the same basic soldering iron off Amazon, a desoldering iron like this one or a desoldering pump.

u/baxxt14 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you don't have a desoldering iron already, this one has worked wonders for me. I got it when it was around $10 and it's desoldered like 3 boards w/o any problems.

u/NexuGX · 2 pointsr/AnnePro

Its never too late to learn how to solder, if its only a few switches that are like this you can buy some Gateron switches individually or in a 10 pack and replace the bad ones.

A decent soldering kit that comes with everything you need can be bought at amazon for less than 20 bucks, with a solder sucker included and if you want even easier solder removal you can get one of these desoldering iron pumps -

There's plenty of switch desoldering tutorials over at /r/mechanicalkeyboards, and if you need help just make a post and I'm sure plenty of people will be glad to help you out.

u/robsonj · 2 pointsr/olkb

That looks like a lot of solder from the picture. Maybe try ordering one of these, I found it to work better than a solder sucker...

Tenma 21-8240 Vacuum Desoldering Iron

u/Cheddarbek · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sweet. DOETT!

For desoldering the old switches (and diodes), I'd recommend this: it has worked well for me.

I'd recommend that when you install diodes on the new PCBs (if you do new PCBs) that you install them on the opposite side of the PCB as the switches.

u/zarquon_himself · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Highly recommend upgrading. I was like you, then I got this (link below), and my whole quality of life improved. Girls even like me now!;amp;psc=1

u/Paradox · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The best way to remove a switch when you don't have a desoldering iron like this (you can get cheap ones too, like this one or this one) is to basically use a mix of a solder sucker and wick to suck up as much as you can. Then stick a screwdriver under the switch, and alternate heating and pulling out the two contacts until the switch pops free

u/Cheticus · 2 pointsr/arduino

I've cheaped out before. They never last. They make shit solder joints. There are a lot of things in life you can and should half-ass. Soldering is not one of them.

I have a Hakko FX888D and love it. Got it a year or so ago and haven't looked back.

u/hwiguna · 2 pointsr/arduino

I agree with the answers already given by others:

  • Get a temperature controlled one like the Hakko.

  • For problematic surfaces, use a Flux Pen. They're magic. Solder will stick to wherever you apply this liquid.

  • Do not use lead free solder, they're a little harder to work with.
u/natermer · 2 pointsr/ebikes

You look like you are using a proper soldering iron. But I don't know for sure.

Nicer irons used for electronics have proper temperature sensors and can dump a lot of energy into the tip to maintain the desired temperature as much as possible.

Something like this:

Cheaper soldering irons you can typically pick up in a hardware store depend more on a sort of 'slow equalization' were the amount of energy used is a pretty much constant. The 'temperature control' really is just mostly a resistor that limits the energy going into the tip.

The big 300w irons work a lot better because they have large thermal mass. They can maintain their temperature better then the cheap hardware store ones because of this.

The problem with using a cheap iron is that it takes much longer to get the surface of whatever you are soldering too up to the proper temperature. This gives a lot of time for the heat to soak into whatever you are soldering and by the time you get the lead hot enough you have dumped a massive amount of heat into your work piece.

If you have a nice iron then it maintains it's temperature better and gets the surface hotter faster. This means that it takes a lot less time to get the surface to the proper temperature and less heat is needed overall.

You probably would of had a easier time getting proper looking 'tinning' of the battery with more surface prep. Solder works through capillary action as it 'follows the heat'. The solder wants to get 'sucked' into joints that are hot. So using rough sand paper (80 grit) to scrape up the surface probably would of helped. I would of sanded the bottom and then used acetone or alchohol to clean everything.

Another thing that would of likely helped is brushing on soldering paste onto the surface. The resin/paste is a acid that helps prep the surface when it heats up. The solder isn't going to want to join to surfaces with oxidation, oils, or other things. The resin cleans the surface to help. The resin core is there to do that as well, but it's usually useful to brush more onto the work piece.

Also you don't want to hold it for a pre-determined amount of time. You can tell if you are doing good job by the surface tension on the blob of solder and seeing it flow.... which you were having a difficult time doing on the bottom... which is perfectly understandable and expected.

All in all I think the video is a good demonstration of the problems with using solder. I think you gave a fair shake.

u/brucethehoon · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I personally use the Weller WESD51 and love it.

On the cheaper side, I'm told the Hakko FX888D is excellent, and at less than a hundred bucks, you can't go wrong.

u/Gibborim · 2 pointsr/UWMadison

Just a fair warning, the random cheapo soldering irons that just plug the wand directly into the wall are shit. It will be hell trying to solder large components like keyboard switches.

If you expect to do soldering in the future aside from this project, I would buy something with a discrete power station or even a low end Hakko model. If you get a soldering iron that costs less than $50, you are probably going to have a bad time.

Now, if this is the only thing you think you will need soldered for a long time, you could walk into the Makerspace and pay one of the student employees to do it for you. A bunch of the same components soldered over and over should only be what, 1-2 hours work? (I'm assuming you didn't design your own control board that needs a bunch of tiny components soldered on.)

u/Ghost_Pack · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Depends on the projects. If you're doing anything that requires precision soldering or you need it to last more than a month or two I probably wouldn't get anything super cheap like what you posted, especially if you don't need the extra stuff like the multi-meter and screwdriver. That iron probably costs under a dollar or two to make which is kind of scary considering you're relying on it to control its heat output.


I'd recommend getting a soldering station from a well known brand like this one for any substantial amount of soldering. If you're looking at getting into hobbyist electronics in general or want to invest in a good iron go for something like this.

u/r4stl1n · 2 pointsr/fpvracing


All of the above is assuming you have everything required for building your quad if not below is a table with everything i think is necessary for building a quad. All these links will be from amazon

Part Type | Part Name | Quantity | Total Cost | Reason | Link
Soldering Station | Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station | 1 | $100 | When it comes to working with quads and electronics you really don't want to skimp on the thing that's putting it together. A good soldering station can change your entire experience when it comes to building quads. For this reason we go with a Hakko once bought you will not need anything else later on. |;amp;qid=1458237822&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+station
Hot Glue Gun | CCbetter® Mini Hot Glue Gun | 1 | $15 | You will use this more than you think, everything from securing your camera, antennas, etc to adding extra insulation to your components to ensure nothing falls off or gets ripped off. |;amp;qid=1458237957&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=hot+glue+gun
Velcro | VELCRO Brand - Sticky Back | 1 | $11 | Sometimes you need things to only stick for a bit then take it off. Velcro is pretty much self explanatory keep your vtx in place among other things |;amp;qid=1458238198&amp;amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;amp;keywords=stick+yvelcro
Zip Ties | Heavy Duty Black Cable Ties | 1 | $11 | The corner stone of fpv IMO. These are keeping more quads flying than anything else. |;amp;dpID=41r7oTe3IpL&amp;amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&amp;amp;refRID=1G5GJ28Z3M8JBJDW67RV
Solder | Miniatronics Corp 1064004 Rosin Core Solder 60/40 4oz | 1 | $12 | You are always going to need solder and this as the flux mixed in meaning it will be a very easy to use solder. |;amp;rps=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1458238393&amp;amp;sr=1-7&amp;amp;keywords=solder&amp;amp;refinements=p_85:2470955011
Velcro Straps | Reusable Dubbex Black Velcro Cable Ties | 1 | $13 | Can be used for pretty much anything like batterystrap, hold wires down etc. |
Voltmeter | Blackcell DC 3.2-30V LED 0.56inch Panel Meter Digital Voltmeter | 1 | $7 | Eventually something is going to go wrong and you are going to have to ensure that your voltages are correct. You are going to need this to verify volt outputs and to figure out what they are when there is no documentation for what you are looking at |;amp;rps=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1458238663&amp;amp;sr=1-6&amp;amp;keywords=voltmeter&amp;amp;refinements=p_85:2470955011
Desolder Tool | LyonsBlue Desoldering Vacuum Pump | 1 | $9 | Very useful for cleaning up to much solder or removing solder from contact pads to redo. Simply heat up the solder and suck it out. |;amp;qid=1458238959&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=desolder
TOTAL | FOR | ALL | $178 | |

u/carbonpath · 2 pointsr/diypedals

Cheap soldering irons suck, no matter the brand.
Save up and get this:
Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue &amp; yellow)

u/Biosnarf · 2 pointsr/wow

To start working with eva foam, all you need is some foam floor mats (this is cheapest at Harbor Freight if you have one nearby), a box cutter, a rotary tool and adhesive. I like to use contact cement and finally a heatgun You may also want a sharpener since foam dulls blades really fast.

Here's a pretty simple tutorial by Will Morgan on how make a dagger.

I also have a more in depth tutorial on how to make a Fallout 10mm pistol out of foam

u/davidrools · 2 pointsr/Coffee

Roasting with a popcorn popper has some significant downsides, namely you're limited to roasting a very small quantity at a time and have no heat control (some poppers don't even put out enough heat to properly roast a bean). The typical benefit for popcorn popper roasting is that you already have a popcorn popper that you don't use for popcorn so why not?

If you're going to spend $20 to roast, I'd highly recommend a hot air gun to use with a metal bowl. You can observe the roasting process with your eyes/ears/nose, and do larger (but still small - ~1/2lb at a time) batches.

u/PuffThePed · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/--master-of-none-- · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

We spend so much money on our hobby and know the harm of damaged wraps.

When I did my first rewrap, I found that the hairdryer I thought would work didn't produce heat. So I bought this best purchase I could have made.

u/fgben · 2 pointsr/sousvide

I bought this thing back in 2013 for $20 and used it for several years.

I got a torch at the beginning of summer and have used it since.

$40 , and $27 for 3 bottles of propane (might be cheaper locally).

It's just markedly better.

u/-Cheule- · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

Surprised no one has mentioned how I like to do it. I use a heat gun on the outside of the window where the 3M pad is. I have a family member hold it there as I pull on the mount from inside the car. Eventually the mount pulls right off, without any residue left. The pads are left in good enough condition that they sometime even affix again.

u/hjunkin0 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I gotta put a plug in for this guy.

I used this to desolder a with relative ease. All it takes is a bit of patience and you're good to go!

u/freakingwilly · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The tips on the solder suckers are pretty heat resistant, so don't be afraid to just get in there. I have a digital soldering station and I usually have the temps set to 650°F. Once the solder turns liquid on the PCB, I press down on the iron tip itself and suck the solder away.

I also have one of those fancy desoldering irons, but it can be a pain to wait for it to heat up when I'm trying to remove a few stubborn joints. Not to mention when you have stubborn solder joints that refuse to liquify and you end up having to add more solder on top. Having two irons running is usually more trouble than it's worth.

u/burnerturner23 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I had a much easier time using this than I did trying to use a spring loaded sucker. If you get one use your soldering iron to liquify the solder first then use this in your other hand to suck up the solder.

u/GunplaAddict · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

buy one of these and put on your favorite podcast or music playlist;amp;qid=1462203511&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;keywords=desolder+pump

With this there's 0 technique required.

EDIT: if you want to remove all of the old solder, get a soldering wick.

u/elecman14 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Not really sure on getting a different iron. De-soldering really depends on what you are de-soldering. Here are some things you might want to look into:

u/joshlove · 2 pointsr/redditblack

Oh, and I'm sure this isnt it, but a lot of games will set the "zero" point of a controller to whatever position it's at when it starts up, so sometimes if you start it up and have the stick moved ever so slightly it will do this on a normal controller.

And really, this is whats happening on broken controllers too which is why you get the drift.

And this is what a desoldering iron looks like if you're curious:;amp;qid=1409456528&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=desoldering+iron

I don't have one, but you can also use a regular iron and a solder sucker (i do this) and some solder wick (I also do this). It's just easier with that tool.

u/FluffyUnlinked · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks! Soldering isn't too hard (I also was afraid of soldering). It's intimidating at first, but after a couple hours of doing it, you'll get more comfortable with it. Getting a cheap mech to practice soldering/desoldering on would probably help you get acquainted with the whole process. This is the soldering iron I used, and this is what I used to desolder. I also used this to clean the tip of the soldering iron in order to make it perform more consistently.

u/rat · 2 pointsr/mechmarket

Well, the FC660M isn't backlit. All switch and LED solder points are through hole.

Use this:

And you'll need one or two tips per keyboard.

Far, far easier to control than those stupid spring loaded suckers. Squeeze bulb, push onto solder point straight down with the pin going straight in, release bulb, squeeze bulb again over a tin can you dump your solder into... push onto next spot.

Tips wear fast but it's a much easier and more controllable process to develop a muscle memory routine for.

u/Rocksteady2R · 2 pointsr/electronics

a) yes, it seems pretty much the same. For the most uses, most DMMs (Digital Multi Meter) will work just fine. Your basic needs are to have a couple of different ranges for both voltage and ampacity readings (i'm refering to the accuracy of the readings here... a DVM generally has 3 or 4 characters on the screen to describe the charactieristic. one range will cover, let's say up to 2 millivolts, and the next will cover up to 2 volts, the next up to 20... you'll figure it out). another major tool on the DVM is an audible continuity tester. these just make a tone when you have a clean circuit path between points a and b. Big help. That one you linked up seems pretty decent.... when you start wiring houses or something, then you can think about upgradign into a fluke handheld or a benchtop if you're doing big fancy circuits, but that'd be fine for quite a while.

I'll tell you, my Iron Experience is pretty dang limited. but this is what i know. As far as a soldering iron goes, one of the major considerations is the power rating, i.e. the wattage ratings... i think mine is about 30W, and it works just fine. If i had my druthers I'd go to one of those variable ones that can get up to ~800 degrees. I'd also definitely consider one that comes with a proper resting stand. An operating soldering iron is a pretty big safety issue, in that it is a burning hot iron tip hanging around on a surface that may or may not be covered in flammable material or human flesh.

As far as de-soldering irons go, at school i have access to those fancy powered vacuum ones... I just take any desoldering tasks i have over there because they are the cats meow. I've used those l'il non-powered vacuum tubes and i think they are going to take a lot of skill and training to get to use efficiently. i didn't like them. I've never used or seen this type

u/techmattr · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I typically use a Hakko FR300. Takes about 10 minutes to desolder an entire board. It's the cheapest quality option for basic desoldering before you get into decent rework stations that cost thousands.

You could try this;amp;qid=1453981477&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=desoldering+pump

I'm guessing the biggest problem you'll run into with this is clogging and maybe not sucking out all the solder. Probably a step up from the hand sucker though.

u/hexavibrongal · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi
u/ozidual · 2 pointsr/n64

I had some small amount of experience with soldering beforehand when I redid about 80-100 NES/SNES/N64 carts with battery holders. After that I successfully transplanted the chips from a broken Goldeneye board to a donor board. I did all of the carts with just a desoldering iron (;amp;qid=1504568020&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=desoldering+iron), no soldering iron because of necessity. I did the Goldeneye switch with just a cheapo soldering iron though. One tip - the solder on the carts is a little hard to melt. It helps to add a bit of fresh solder to the existing joint to help melt the old solder.

u/wootpatoot · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Are you using a pump? those are awful. Either use a wick, or one of these bad boys If you ever desolder switches you will thank me.

u/birdsbirdsbirdsbirds · 2 pointsr/ballpython

Seconding the soldering iron approach. For OP's benefit, this is the one I used.

u/cexshun · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If I had nothing and wanted to purchase decent quality stuff but still being affordable, I'd do the following.

Multimeter $45

Soldering Station $38

Solder $25

Desoldering Pump $6

If this is the only time you ever plan on soldering, then you can get away with the cheap stuff. You could probably source some of it locally for cheaper. None of this is great quality, but it will do the job for a 1 time project. While I wouldn't enjoy it, I could build an Ergodox with the following setup.

Desoldering Pump $6

Multimeter $13

Solder $9

Soldering Iron $8

Iron Holder $6

u/theoptionexplicit · 2 pointsr/Bass
u/AVB · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Not a bad idea - you're much less likely to electrocute yourself!

I can't stress enough the importance of good solder joints! Don't glob solder onto the iron and then apply to the piece of work. It's important to thoroughly heat the work until IT melts the solder and the solder is allowed to naturally flow into the nooks and crannies of the work.

Also, you are embarking on a way of life. This is a serious commitment of time and money. Do yourself a favor and buy a GOOD soldering station - not a cheap soldering pen!!!

u/justinoblanco · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette
u/tacticaltaco · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

It's not too hard to learn soldering. I recommend having a good iron. I had a cheap Radio Shack iron when I was in High School and part of College. I could not solder to save my life. The tips always oxidized quickly, it was never very hot, it sucked.

Eventually I was gifted a nice Weller iron (slightly cheaper) and it makes soldering a breeze. Grab one of those irons, some thin solder, a few electronics kits and just go to town. Watch YouTube videos if you want some pointers, good ones are filmed with a microscope (or stereoscope) so you can really see what is happening.

Last, if you can really afford it, go with this pencil. I use those at work and they rock. They've got a short grip so it allows much finer control. I can do SMD all day with that and not break a sweat. It's a bit tougher with the iron I have at home but it's manageable.

u/Not_A_Bovine · 2 pointsr/Luthier

Not at all. While it's not impossible to use a cheap soldering iron and get a good job done, it will save you a TON of hassel by getting a good one. RadioShack irons are more trouble than 2x what they're worth. My soldering jobs have been a pleasure to do since I upgraded, and I solder often so that's important to me. I use the Weller WESD51, and it's an absolute joy to use. If your on a bit more of a budget, my friend is a professional luthier and he's never complained about the WLC100, which is also from Weller.

Do it. It's worth it.

u/backlumchaam · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

For (bigger) diagonal cutters/pliers, I think the most BIFL are NWS with their "Titan finish". Knipex is a fairly close second, but I like the finish on NWS better. Both can handle hard and medium hard wire (including nails and screws) without a problem, unlike most Klein, Snap-On, etc. The biggest issue is finding NWS in the US. The NWS Fantastico Plus are the best diagonal cutters I've ever laid my hands on.

For precision cutters/pliers, Xuron. They're semi-flush (Xuron call them flush, but I'd still call them semi-flush) micro sheer cutters are great but thankfully don't seem to nick up easily like (Xcelite, Snap-On, etc.) flush cutters do. I like the ones with that are ESD safe, with extra long handles, and the lead retainer best if you're going to be populating a lot of circuit boards. Otherwise, their cheaper models are just as nice.

Wiha precision screwdrivers. I've given this set as a gift before. Wera for the bigger stuff if you need it. Wiha or Wera bits (only larger sizes, I've never found precision bits I've particularly liked).

Klein to fill in gaps.

Bondhus hex keys.

Find a nice used Fluke multimeter on eBay. 89IV go for under $200 and have pretty much identical features to the 189 (believe the 189 mostly just has a bigger inductance/capacitance range). Most universities will have someone tasked with calibration/maintaining the measurement equipment. Make friends and he'll probably calibrate it for you/teach you how/just let you jump in and try. Mine was falling out of the box after UPS drop kicked it to my door, but the calibration was still super boring as nothing needed adjustment.

Hakko or Weller soldering station. Easy to find tips, especially for Weller. WESD51 dropped to $99 on Amazon a couple times in the last year, great time to scoop one up for little more than the analog version. The Stahl Tools one Amazon sells is also good for dirt cheap, but not really BIFL; good luck on finding tips. Metcal is too rich for my blood, but if you ever happen across one that is cheap.

Kester "44" solder, accept no substitute. 63/37 or 60/40, but since the spool will last you half a lifetime, I'd probably go with the 63/37.

I have a love/hate relationship with wire strippers. Something like this usually gets the job done, but sometimes you'll get wire with a strange jacket size and they'll fail. For the automatic kind, this style works ok (especially if you adjust it to what you're stripping), but I usually like this style better; again, as long as the jacket isn't too small and you wire is in the right range. Sadly, I probably most often grab for cheapies like this. The adjustment screw is great if you have to do a lot of a certain size, but I tend to free hand them. It takes quite a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, it's the fastest. Thermal wire strippers are just too pricey for the home user, especially if you want to do PVC, teflon, etc. jacketed wire.

I also have a love/hate relationship with crimpers. I have some crimpers I got for Anderson Powerpole connectors from West Mountain Radio (largely because I couldn't believe how cheap they are-- connector-specific crimpers are usually many times the price they charge) and they were great for the Powerpoles. I even bought some of the other die sets, but I've been less happy with those. I often end up using a similar pair to these or the die on a pair of Klein lineman's pliers for the larger crimps.

u/r6raff · 2 pointsr/OpenPV

These are both good the analog one is s bit cheaper bit I think is a solid kit, keeps consistent temp very well and heats up extremely quick... 500degrees in about 20 seconds from dead cold

u/Chemical_Suit · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I bought a Weller for an RC car project. It has variable digital temperature control. I haven't done any keyboard soldering but I'm pretty sure it is up to the task.



The Hako is also highly recommended.

u/GarrukApex · 2 pointsr/Nerf

This is what I use and it's very high quality.
my soldering iron

u/Dan-68 · 2 pointsr/arduino

I saw this on Amazon for $40.
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

u/SumErgoCogito · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use this iron for everything I do. It has basic thermal control and the iron has a good selection of tips that you can buy: I would definitely get fine point tips. Here is a vacuum that I use as well for desoldering:

Whatever iron you have now will probably be fine, but definitely will want precision tips if you can find them.

u/terry2122 · 2 pointsr/Bass

Soldering is actually not that big a deal. A little practice and you’re good to go. THeres lots of YouTube tutorials. and you can find wiring diagrams all over the Internet.

Get an iron with variable setting like this one it’s a bit more than the $15 for just a plain iron, but it’s worth it and you can use it forever.
Looks like you’re painting it. You can try all sorts of different techniques; I’d maybe go solid color the first time. guitar reranch sells rattle cans of nitrocellulose based paints and clear coats (that’s what expensive guitars use as opposed to poly)
He uses chips from old guitars and cars(fender used leftover paint from car companies for many of the original classic colors) to match proper color and hue, and they come with two different spray nozzles. Again, a little pricier than cans from the hardware store, but nitro finishes are so nice:)
One of the best parts is researching everything! Lots of time on the google machine:)

u/numbersdontcount · 2 pointsr/londonontario

I was going to list my Weller WLC100 station on kijiji sometime soon. It's a pretty solid station, and mine's in good condition overall. I believe that this is the tip I have on it: Weller 185-ST7. $40 and it's yours.

u/SirCarrington · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Here is the one I use.

If you find it a bit pricy, here is a great compromise.

Don't skimp on a soldering iron. If you don't have enough power, you'll overheat the components while you're waiting for the solder to flow.

Get a Weller solder station.

u/Wetbung · 2 pointsr/ECE

It really depends on whether you want a nice soldering iron or just something that will allow you to try it for a few hours. There is a huge price difference. Of course there is also a huge difference in quality. You could get a very nice iron like this for around $250. Or you could get something much less expensive, like this for around $40.

The first one I listed is very similar to one of the best irons I've ever used. The second one is still head and shoulders above the piece of crap I used for the first several years I was soldering. It was like this, at around $5, and as long as I kept the tip sharpened with a file it worked pretty well.

u/Natemiester · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Is it worth the upgrade if I already have this soldering iron?

u/madcow104 · 2 pointsr/DIY

I don't know much about butane soldering irons or what he plans on soldering.

But i do a lot of electronics soldering, and the most important thing for me when buying a soldering iron/station, was that it was adjustable, meaning i could better control the temperature and not fry the components i was soldering. I ended up buying this solder station and it has worked great for me

u/shermansas · 2 pointsr/ECE

WLC100 is a great cheap soldering station.

u/SergeantTibbs · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you don't already have one, get a soldering station. A Hakko 888 or Weller WES51 is an affordable option and will massively improve any soldering job. This is one of the good examples of how the quality of the tool has a direct effect on the quality of the work, even if you're an amateur.

If you can't see laying out that cash, just try at least to buy this one. I'm sure there are other options also.

EDIT: In case it's not perfectly clear, and for the peanut gallery:

A soldering iron is a perfect example of what a good tool can do, and what a bad tool will stop you from doing. In the hands of a wizard, a shitty iron can still create passable solder joints. But a good soldering iron will allow a rank amateur to make good, quality joints. And an amateur with a bad soldering iron? Nothing but junk will ever result.

A good iron and good light will save many jobs. If you're going to put money anywhere, let it be in tools and lighting.

u/reggatronics · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/solipsistnation · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

Yep, I've been building stuff for a while, although this is the most intense set of builds I've done. Get yourself a good soldering iron and a couple of spare tips (Weller makes some good ones-- don't go for super-cheap unless you want to replace it a bunch of times). This thing here is about the lowest-end I'd suggest (I use one):

Get some little noise toys, like an Atari Punk Console or even something silly like an LED Christmas tree kit and put it together. There are some really good soldering instructions here:

They list more info on tools, too.

Some kits are more complex than others, too-- the Befaco kits are pretty complicated, and anything with an oscillator will probably require some calibration. Synthrotek make pretty good little kits and have good info on building them.

You can do it, though. It's not difficult. 8) Just take your time and check each step as you go and you'll be fine.

u/MaddSilence · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Don’t forget, you need one with a tip the size of a pen. Any bigger and you will burn your pcb. This is a decent one that I use

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

Weller ST7 ST Series Conical Solder Tip Hobbyist for WP25, WP30 and WP35 Irons, 0.31"

OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker &amp; Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool

Sometimes for the smaller welds, like on LEDs, try adding solder before sucking.

u/lutusp · 2 pointsr/computers

Here's the soldering iron I use:

It has a relatively small tip, its temperature is controllable if crudely, and it's suitable for most (but not all) small electronic work. There are more specialized irons and tools, as well as a lot of very specialized methods and tools to remove solder from boards and parts.

BTW I'm not endorsing the above device -- it's just the iron I own and I think it's acceptable. I'm sure there are many other similar products.

u/n4yr · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Does anyone have any soldering iron recommendations?

I was going to get this Vastar one, but it doesn't really seem to be readily available in Australia. I'm probably gonna go with this Weller now.

It's probably not gonna get a whole lot of use, mainly just for the Whitefox :\^)

u/FantasticEmu · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

What’s your definition of cheap?

This amazon one worked ok for me after I purchased smaller tips for about $15

u/MAGlCK · 2 pointsr/DIY

TL;DR - I didn’t mean to write an essay, so I’ll start with this: Get a multimeter and a decent soldering iron. If you have time, want free components, and wish to practice desoldering, find some scrap electronics and start collecting (please recycle the remnants). Check SparkFun, eBay, or Google for bulk supplies of components as it might be cheaper that way, and you get only what you need. Otherwise, buy a kit. A decent kid’s one should do fine (recycle the book if it comes with one and it’s too basic for you).

It seems like your book is from the early 2000s and is biased towards analog circuits. I hate to break it to you that those days are over now that almost everything has moved towards surface-mounting on printed circuit boards (PCBs), and you'll find it's cheaper (time- and money-wise) to replace entire units than actually troubleshooting individual almost-microscopic components.

With that being said, I still found it useful to learn how to troubleshoot analog circuits to solidify my understanding of electronic circuitry in general and for my DIY projects, such as: fixing faulty wires/cables, making my own phone chargers, powering a bathroom scale with an old cell phone to make it rechargeable, replacing faulty components on / adding computer fans to power inverters, and most recently, re-soldering a problematic switch on the circuit board for a stove hood (would've been $50 for replacement board).

I only use a free multimeter (from Harbor Freights with any purchase) and would at the very minimal recommend that, but you should note that measuring a circuit does in fact change the circuit and if input impedance of the meter is not high enough (cheap meters like this one) compared to the impedance of the circuit being measured, you can get useless readings.

I would also recommend getting a decent soldering iron. I've had bad experiences with melting tips on the cheap ones, but have been going strong with my current station (an older version of this) with an off switch and varying levels of temperature (on my model, it heats to a certain point and waits until it drops to a certain point before re-heating it back to the level set like a conventional oven, but none of my projects require anything fancier than that).

I don't own an oscilloscope since my projects do not deal much with wavelengths, signals or latching. I would go to the nearby community college where I have taken classes before and ask to use one of their high-quality ones if I really needed it. I have never personally tested the handheld ones for under $100, but I have worked with someone who designs custom electronics for clients and swears by one. On the other hand, I've heard some negative reviews that the bandwidth/resolution of the the cheap scopes are impractical for many of today's circuits. You can make a "poor man's scope" by using a sound card and a modified 3.5mm audio cable if you really needed a basic one!

I haven't touched a function generator since I had to troubleshoot an old AM/FM transceiver in an electronics troubleshooting course.

u/Potatoes55 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I also recently got into the hobby and I use this Weller WLC100 it's got a small chisel tip but it's pretty good

u/MrCrono666 · 2 pointsr/Gameboy

Hey! Glad to help. This Is the exact soldering iron I use. Extremely effective, I keep it at a 3 at all times, seems to be a legit temperature for everything Gameboy related.

The Solder I use works really well, rarely sticks to the soldering tip (like many other ones I've tried) and seems to be the most consistent. It's also supported by HHL - so you know it's solid!

Hope that helps.

u/Gromann · 2 pointsr/gaming

If the 888d is outside your budget WLC100.

I know the hakko is nicer but I've used this thing for everything from power tool battery repair to cell phone charging ports. Either way you'll need desoldering tools as well, a variety of tips would be a good idea too.

Don't forget some 63/37, lead free solder is shit.

u/Berzerker7 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

So here's all the parts you need.

Maxipad -

Diodes - (I'd just buy a roll of 100, they're $0.019 each at that point)

Switches -

Teensy (your controller) -

Plates you'll have to find somewhere, but there are some on here that can make them for you. I have the DXF I used here that you can share with someone who can make the plates for you, it'll end up coming out looking like this if you use those (material and color are your choice, those are clear acrylic).

You'll also I guess need an iron, but that can be seen as an investment into multiple boards, rather than just this one. Best bang for your buck is going to be this one.

Soldering through-hole diodes is easy, and the Teensy comes with header pins that you use to solder it.

Important note: Solder the switches and diodes before the Teensy, as you can see that the area covers some of the switch headers. :)

I can help you along the way with any issues, so let me know if you need any help.

u/Nizzzlle · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/piggychuu · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I bought a variable temp Aoyue soldering iron. It's worked fine despite it not being a Hakko. $30;amp;qid=1463421574&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=aoyue

I've used it for a total of around.....50 hours so far? Works fine for me.

I also found a desoldering pump to be easier to use than soldering wick.

u/GeneralPurposeGeek · 2 pointsr/Multicopter
u/teddyzaper · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

That is not an electronics soldering iron. Depending on your budget, i'd recommend either this aoyue at $30 or this aoyue at $90 if you want a nice high quality station. The nicer one has the advantage of exact tempature measurements and also comes with a ton of extra sized tips.

As for the frame, its really not common to break arms as a beginner. Its REALLY hard to break an arm and you have to be going really fast and hit something really hard. The reason you may have read about arms breaking is because most beginners start with some cheap frame built with bad/thin carbon. The QAV250 wont break easily (although i've heard of the skinny part in the top frame breaking, but that can just be glued/taped back together).

u/thejunioristadmin · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I bought this Aoyue a couple weeks ago and its been pretty great. It uses the same style tips as the Hakko and came with a decently fine tipped one. I bought a thicker ended tip last week that is nice to use on heavier gauge wire but for motors and ESCs liked the fine tip better.

I've never done anything with RCs before and this was really my first experience soldering anything that mattered.

u/donutcat_cables · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Kester 44 63/37 is approximately the best solder you can buy for keyboard related needs, available in both 1lb spools and 1oz tubes. Yes it's a bit pricey, but solder is one of those things where you get what you pay for, and dealing with cheapo no-name solder can actually lead to damage to components.

u/JohnnieRicoh · 2 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

Does Amazon sell internationally? I have no idea. The best solder is this stuff;amp;psc=1

If you can find kester 63/37 anywhere that'll ship to you that's the stuff. I wasted a lot of money on little tubes from my hardware store until I just stocked up with a reel of this

u/beanmosheen · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

This stuff is awesome and will last you forever. It's worth the cost. it's 63/37 which flows a little better.

u/Abe21599 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/pebcak_error · 2 pointsr/Multicopter
u/tlt593 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Ah okay gotcha. Also I realized I can get tons of discarded circuit boards from work so those should be enough practice material for me. I was looking at an iron like this;amp;qid=1483622458&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron . Looks like it would be okay and is 60W

u/No_Hands_55 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

i would get this set;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1463149918&amp;amp;sr=8-3

comes with a solder sucker, stand, and tweezers for only a couple bucks more than the other recommendation. What I am currently using to make my SuperGameGirl

u/noroadsleft · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Saw a suggestion for this a few days ago from /u/jaiakt: Vastar Full Set 60W 110V Soldering Iron Kit

Weller does seem to be a good brand from reviews I've read before, though. The WLC100 that Krelbit suggested would be a step up in class from this.

u/metaphoricallysane · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I bought [this kit](Vastar Full Set 60W 110V Soldering Iron Kit - Adjustable Temperature, 5pcs Different Tips, Desoldering Pump, Stand, anti-static Tweezers and Additional Solder Tube for Variously Repaired Usage off Amazon for $16. Not super high quality, but I've used it for several builds with no problem.

u/ArmedWithBars · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Check Craigslist for guitars that have electronic issues or are completely dead. For example I got an rg321mh that has a perfect neck and frets for $60. All I had to do was rewire a new input jack. Get a cheap solder pen and some 63/37 rosin core solder.

Wiring guitars is WAY easier then most people think. You can find diagrams for almost any production guitar/pickups.

Just make sure your frets, neck, and nut are good, that stuff is a pain to fix. The rest you're replacing anyways.

I just do a full rewire. Buy the following for a dead guitar: 1. CTS pots. 2. Switchcraft input jack and switch. 3. 22awg cloth sleeved wire. Use a multimeter to check pickups resistance. Or just get some guitar fetish pickups of your choice for a cheap option of new pickups. Then just do the full rewire following a diagram. Make sure to pre-tin your solder pen, the solder point, and your wire. Also sand the back of your cts pots for easier adhesion. Pickup a $5 helping hands from harbor freight to hold stuff to solder.

All this stuff will cost you around $50-60 with a cheap solder pen kit ($12 Amazon) and you will have enough wire and solder to do a bunch of guitars.

You will have a completely rewired guitar in less than 2 hours of work.

Here is links to solder pen, solder, and wire. The rest just lookup for your guitar you're gonna rewire.;amp;qid=1556147584&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-4;amp;keywords=63+37+solder+kester&amp;amp;qid=1556147625&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sprefix=63+37&amp;amp;sr=8-4

u/wholypantalones · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This one for $17 has served me well so far.

u/Diox788 · 2 pointsr/headphones

I'm going to pick up either this for $11 or this for $21 when I do the soldering on my pair.

u/HackerBeeDrone · 2 pointsr/EngineeringPorn

No, that's overkill for what I do.

I since won a hackaday contest and got an amazing Weller soldering tweezers and iron. It's not fancy like what you posted (although if I did a lot of repair, I'd absolutely want that preheat and hot air) but it's so well designed it's never disappointed me. With only the one soldering iron, it'd be around $250 I think.

I did more teaching on cheaper, $50 soldering stations like this and I almost never can tell the difference. I recommend anybody getting into soldering pay around $50, doing a bit of research to make sure you don't get the worst $50 iron possible. Unless you really dive deep into the smallest, or most tricky components, anything adjustable that's significantly over 50 Watts (certainly not 25!!!) feels about the same as any other.

X-Tronic Model #3020-XTS Digital Display Soldering Iron Station - 10 Minute Sleep Function, Auto Cool Down, C/F Switch, Ergonomic Soldering Iron, Solder Holder, Brass Tip Cleaner with Cleaning Flux

u/Jonathan924 · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

Shockingly, mine is a cheapo unit as well. It works pretty well, but nothing to write home about

u/Dweebly · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics
u/AtxGuitarist · 2 pointsr/esp8266

I've been happy with my $50 X-Tronic 3020-XTS. I had a $8 RadioShack soldering iron before and this one is like 100x better. The heat up time is like 10 seconds.

u/sc302 · 2 pointsr/rccars;amp;psc=1

This has been awesome!!!
The reviews are extremely favorable and I have to agree. I never have burnt solder, it is fast and precise. Anyone that has used mine gets one for themselves.

u/ShutterPriority · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Soldering Iron - either

  • the TS100, which will serve you well in the field as well.
  • an X-Tronic 3020, which is the closest thing I've found to a Weller without the cost, and it fits Hakko tips.
u/VirtuallyJason · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

Here's the soldering iron that I use:;amp;psc=1

I don't know my way around soldering irons, so can't really speak to its quality vs. any other iron. But, its lowest temperature is 200, which has worked really well for me during mini cleanup.

u/itsalljustaride9 · 2 pointsr/Luthier

XTronic 3020 with adjustable temp.

u/I_Am_The_Mole · 2 pointsr/guitarpedals

Making cables is easier than it sounds, and soldering isn’t difficult - but you’re right that you want to buy a decent iron at the bare minimum.

That said, a variable wattage soldering iron can be had for like $20 if you know where to look, consumables like solder and flux are super cheap and you don’t need a big soldering station if all you’re doing is making cables. If you’re curious hit YouTube and get an idea of whether or not you think you can handle it.

Soldering Kit

Cable Kit

That’s $50 worth of stuff and you can build six cables at whatever length you want. I think that’s still cheaper than lava cable at that rate and if you need more later you still have the equipment.

u/spotify3694 · 2 pointsr/repair_tutorials

ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers

u/SunTsu75 · 2 pointsr/diypedals

Seconded, also consider this kind of thing: - it's invaluable for PCBs. Just populate from one side, add something to hold stuff in place (like gaffa tape, or bend one lead, or clip on a sheet of paper, etc), turn over the PCB and start soldering away. I wouldn't want to miss mine.

Any soldering iron 40+W where you can regulate the temperature should do, I own a nice station but when I don't feel like breaking it out because it'd take longer to set it up than to do the job I use something like this: set to 350°C. Just make sure to clean and tin your tip regularly and it will do the trick just fine Oh, but ditch the solder and get a few spools of good rosin core solder of different gauges, it's not expensive but worth it. In my experience, the solder that comes with kits like that mostly works as a deterrent.

If you're not planning on buying all-included kits also get a few spools of stranded core wire of different colors. You could use solid core wires but those tend to break if they're getting bended from movement without showing it. With stranded core some strands may break but as others don't they'll continue to work. Invisibly broken wires (i.e.) inside the isolation) are a *beeeeep* to debug.

Also, a set of tweezers are great to have, especially the kind that holds stuff together per default, like this one: (only an example, I'd get a tweezers set that contains one like that).

In my experience a tool set like this one is great to have: - especially the bending tool is great to have, as it allows eg to bend the leads of a LED without running the risk of breaking the LED itself. It's also great in order to clean up mistakes, helps with desoldering and such

Speaking of desoldering: desoldering braid is a must. A desoldering pump can be useful, too. And yes, practice soldering and desoldering until you can do both without destroying anything.

If you're not going to buy pre-drilled enclosures then you very likely want a) a center punch and b) stepping drill bits. Those let you drill holes in all kinds of sizes without having to buy lots of drills.

Last but not least a wire cutter is a must

u/Xn007 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I bought the cheapest soldering kit on Amazon and it's lasted me through like 9 builds/re-builds so far. Still working fine. Something like this. I don't know exactly how accurate the temperature dial is, but it seems to be about right on mine.

Buying quality's never a bad idea, but you really don't have to if you're not using it a ton.

u/Zkennedy100 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

While it isn't possible to replace the switches without soldering, the solder job is a lot simpler than it seems. Just watch a good tutorial and get a decent 20 dollar solder kit off amazon and you'll be set. It's a good skill to learn. This solder set is amazing and actually comes with a solder sucker which you need to replace a switch anyways. I've used it hundreds of times and it's held up very well.

u/1Weeb · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

Sorry nobody responded to such a simple question on this subreddit about mice. Apparently most people here don't care or know much about the hardware in their mouse. So I guess I'll be the one to answer your question.

Those are just standard 3 pin micro switches you can find on any ordinary mouse. In my opinion they're all similar, Omron, Kailh, Huano seem to be the more common ones. The ones on the Divina series are all Huano and you can buy them on HERE, yes they're all from China because that's where they are all made.

You'll need basic solder / desolder skills to replace them, it should only take you about 30 min -1 hour or so of watching YouTube videos. But I'd get something to practice with first. Most important is to learn how to desolder using Solder Sucker you can look up a ton of tutorials on Youtube. You can find a full solder kit on amazon for under $20 if you're in the US, it should have everything you need for a quick job. Link here

Once you know how to replace a simple mouse switch you'll save a lot of money by not having to buy another full mouse if a switch ever malfunctions, a lot of people just throw away their old mouse and buy a new one if the "clicks" somehow stop working but really it's most likely just the simple mouse switch they needed to replace.

u/Bubbledotjpg · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

It's super simple. If you have no interest in learning how to do it I would find someone with a soldering iron and have them do it. I bought this kit and all you would do it use a bit a solder to connect the two holes. A 20 second job.

u/tobyarch · 2 pointsr/Hyundai

Headlights (you only need one pair. the cutoff is outstanding)

Map lights, license plate lights, running tail lights, and side marker lights

Reverse lights

Front turn signals (accessible from under the vehicle - pin remover and 10mm socket needed)

Rear turn signals (requires tail light disassembly)

Turn signal resistors (required to prevent hyperflashing; soldering is recommended)

Brake lights (requires tail light disassembly)

Daytime-running lights (pliers needed)

Trunk light and dome light

u/milkshaakes · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

awesome. thanks so much for all of your help! i think this is the last question i had. going to wait a couple days and then start ordering parts:

u/Jax_daily_lol · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've had my eye on this one

u/arlekin21 · 2 pointsr/soldering

Would something like this be good or should I avoid it?

u/Catgutt · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Soldering is an extremely valuable skill for this sport, is cheap to get into (this twenty dollar kit is more than sufficient), and will allow you to take advantage of cheap RC packs from HobbyKing and re-solder them yourself. It's definitely worth the mild investment in time, money, and effort.

u/ARCFXX · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've got through about 8 keyboard builds/rebuilds with a generic $20 kit off Amazon and it's still holding up. Like, this'd be fine if you're not willing to drop $100 on something you may rarely use. Or most of the cheap adjustable ones on there.

Check out this guide, watch a couple soldering tutorials, switch soldering is some of the most basic stuff.

u/Mrcassarole · 2 pointsr/Gameboy

I haven't tested this one myself but it seems like this is some good bang for your buck:

I bought the soldering iron and the replacable tips on ebay, but they're coming from China so it'll be a while before I can vouch for them hope this helps a but.

u/BustedUtensil · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is the one I bought and so far it’s been great.
Check it

u/SinkLeakOnFleek · 2 pointsr/arduino

I don't really wanna post the code for ethical reasons (I started with some basic Adafruit code for bluetooth and turned it into a full OS). But here's a feature list:

  1. Bluetooth, where time, battery percentage, and location are automagically updated by a companion app (a modified version of this app by Nordic Semiconductor.)

  2. A stopwatch, accessed by pressing the left button.

  3. A flashlight, turned on by one of the switches

  4. A "dumb mode" in which only the time is displayed, accessed by flipping the bottom switch

  5. In the future, notifications.

    I used u8g2's u8x8 mode for the screen drawing, as it requires no ram.


    Here are my parts:

    Voltage regulator (takes 8.4v down to 5v)

    22pF capacitors

    16MHz Oscillator (required for standalone board)

    DIYMall blue OLED

    Knockoff Arduino Uno

    Adafruit UART-Capable bluetooth module (makes sending data easier)

    Spare ATMega 328 processors

    Li-Ion" 9V" (8.4v) batteries (rechargeable)


    9V battery clip

    Soldering Kit

    Elegoo prototyping PCBs

    Jumper wires (makes life easier &amp; tidier)

    Elegoo Starter Kit (Comes with LEDs, resistors, and buttons)
u/TheTaterMeister · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Get yourself one of these soldering kits. It has everything you need to get started with soldering (though I recommend using solder wick instead of the pump for desoldering.) Just be sure to tin the tips with solder to prolong their life and help with heat transfer, and never blow on a fresh blob of solder to cool it; it give the joint air pockets which can corrode and degrade the joint over time.

Get some Bourns 500k push-pull pots (I recently bought a pair for $16 from an Amazon marketplace seller) for both controls. You could wire them up to coil split each pickup independently (assuming they have 4 conductors) as well as to bypass the controls entirely, have one pickup active all the time, etc. They're incredibly versatile.

Also, some new pickups and a Switchcraft jack will help immensely.

u/shekki_ · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

How do I compensate when I'm using a lower end soldering iron? I heard the temperature doesn't stay hot as consistently as better irons- so do I have to just wait longer in between soldering each joint?

I got this one for reference:;amp;psc=1

u/Mulcch · 2 pointsr/arduino

I hear you, I OBSESSED over this for a few days. And I still got the first result on Amazon and wasted two days I could have been tinkering or doing anything else haha.

Here's the one I got.;amp;psc=1

Looks like the price ticked up or I got a deal or something. Definitely get a helping hands or similar device to hold your projects, so incredibly helpful. Can find those at any hobby store or Amazon for cheap too.

u/pizzaboy69 · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I bought this ages ago, great kit. link here: amazon product page 19$

u/wallyTHEgecko · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I had never soldered anything before either, but I got one just to mess with my printers. Being able to snip off and reattach connectors, or extend wires on fans or solder some LED strip lights or whatever is a nice thing to be able to do yourself. This kit is pretty much complete for basic soldering and has been great.

u/covah901 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use this: Weller

And I've achieved this:

These are just what are on my desk right now.

u/Dartmuthia · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have this one, and I'm pretty happy with it. Seems to fit your criteria:

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

u/alexmrb · 2 pointsr/SynthRepairs

I use something very similar to this, except it's 30 watts:

That's probably the cheapest thing you'll find. I wouldn't recommend it unless you're going to solder once or twice a year. Believe me-it's a pain to do anything with an iron this cheap, and I'm getting a new one to replace it. I'm tired of buying extra-cheap stuff.

I've used this before, and it's actually not too bad in my opinion:;amp;qid=1481862872&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron&amp;amp;refinements=p_89%3AWeller

For $40, these two stations look pretty enticing:;amp;qid=1481862523&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron;amp;qid=1481862673&amp;amp;sr=8-11&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron

Disclaimer- I have never repaired a synth before.

u/domesticpig · 2 pointsr/arduino
u/bullterriercuddles · 2 pointsr/rccars

I have a Weller WLC100 and a pair of helping hands. Works perfectly fine.

u/Paradigmkick · 2 pointsr/arduino

Hello, and thanks for the info!

I want to make something that moves and can keep a kitten busy. Either something that rolls around the floor or a fishing pole/crane contraption that responds to a bite.
I do not have a multimeter. I have a weller WLC100 40 watt.
As far as components go, I have only junk electronics.

u/pk386 · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have one of these it's a good iron. used it until my company was throwing out some old HAKKO's and got one for free! ^_^

u/wtfisthisnoise · 2 pointsr/fixit

Solder's closer to $10 a roll, but I get it at the rat shack. I first started out with a $15 dollar soldering iron and it just had bad temp control. The cheapest I'd recommend is this one by Weller. It's the same wattage as the one without the stand that normally goes for 20, but this was just much easier to work with, and that's something I'd recommend for a beginner.

You're right that a cheaper soldering iron would be okay for this project, but it's not something I would use consistently, so it doesn't seem like a good value.

u/ridcullylives · 2 pointsr/Guitar

You don't need anything fancy. Would suggest getting a soldering station, as it makes things easier.

Weller and Hakko are both well-known brands. Maybe something like this, which seems to get decent reviews? Might want to get a couple of different tips.;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=2WV2ET0JKFMBWP9E255F

u/lord_derpshire · 2 pointsr/soldering

I'd put this one in the not horrible but leaving something to be desired but very good for the deal category

u/refactor_music · 2 pointsr/synthdiy

I use this Weller Soldering Station. Weller's are pretty tried and true but are not top of the line. But for synth DIY, I find this station more than capable and a good deal too.

u/Wookiees_uncle · 2 pointsr/Gameboy

This toolkit would have everything you would ever need...including triwing and Gamebit screw driver bits.

Thisa popular soldering iron. I use it myself and it hasn’t let me down. Just get some wire, flux, and solder and you’re set.

Edit: fixed the link lol

u/vilagefool · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

honorable mention Weller WLC1000 that usually gets overlooked. Great starter iron that is cheap and you can replace the heads (I usually use ST7 tips because they're really fine).

u/Turquoise_HexagonSun · 2 pointsr/retrogaming

It’s excellent advice, I’d just tell you to skip the single wattage iron and go right for this Weller station.

If you’re patient you can get it for $25 to $30 on sale.

I went from a RadioShack pen to a Weller pen, to a parts express soldering station and finally to this Weller station and wished I had skipped everything before it.

I use it to solder everything from electrolytic caps and batteries in consoles to super tiny ceramic capacitors like C11 on the SNES jr for the anti-ghosting fix.

A quality iron is worth it right from the start.

u/cacraw · 2 pointsr/radiocontrol

You don't need to spend a lot, but you do need something better than a $7.99 special. I use this with a fine point tip that I picked up locally. It takes practice to solder to those tiny pins, but it can be done. Get a decent iron, some flux, a brass ball cleaner, and some leaded solder. Watch youtube videos, and practice on old electronics.

The electrons don't care where on the trace that you do it, but the closer you are to components, and the skinnier the trace, the more likely you are to screw something up with too much heat.

I have done the mod you are trying to my 9x, and it really improves the radio. I've since bought a 9xR, and use the 9x as a trainer.

u/zeroair · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I want this one.

I won't say it's simply because it's orange.

Ok it's simply because it's orange. (Also the one I have and like is a Weller. Old Weller I call it. Saved me from a bear attack, that one.)

u/Kryzm · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics
u/greenlambda · 2 pointsr/ECE

It may also be worth it to buy some of the tools you might need for personal use. Things have gotten a lot cheaper in the past 10 years with everything becoming integrated, so very basic and slow speed oscilloscopes etc can be bought. Here are some cool things you might be able to afford:

Oscilloscope/Logic Analyzer/Waveform Generator:

Much Much Nicer (and way more expensive) version of the above:

Basic soldering iron (I use this a lot even to do surface mount):

Cheap place to make circuit boards:

Lots of parts and parts kits:

Being able to design and build your own project, completely self directed is a great feeling. There are a ton of resources out there to help. It will definitely be a lot of trial and error because no one will be helping or looking over your shoulder, but I think that makes it more fun!

u/jjjacer · 2 pointsr/Nerf

1st, heat the component and feed the solder into it.

2nd, If you have a cheap low wattage solding iron, objects with alot of metal will be hard to solder as it wicks the heat away too fast and doesnt get hot enough.

3rd, strip the wire a bit shorter, too much exposure especially without heat shrink allows for shorts

4th for removing solder as per above, sometimes you can just heat up the solder and tap the object against the table and the hot blob will fall off, i recommend though to either have solder wick or a solder sucker.

5th, for solder, use 60/40 lead - tin flux core solder, thinner the easier it is to work with.

soldering can be done cheap and easy but nothing beats having the proper tools.

Practice, practice, practice.

Although i will say when i was younger i also had joints look like that too.

If you continue to do this alot, here are the tools i recommend

Solder Wick


Iron and Solder Sucker

although if you really do alot of solder, get a good temp controller one like this

Weller Soldering station

u/imsinking · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Both Weller
and Aoyue make a good entry level soldering iron with adjustable heat.

u/blueshiftlabs · 2 pointsr/electronics

How would you say that compares to the Weller WES51?

u/andpassword · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have this one.

u/Anenome5 · 2 pointsr/learnelectronics

Yeah! I actually like the look of that one better.

Link for the curious:

u/ripster55 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/c0mad0r · 2 pointsr/sandiego

These types of things are generally considered hobbyist level and in all honestly, you are best doing this yourself with a good Weller Soldering Iron, a 56 SMD Desk Magnafier and some helping hands.

If that is out of the question though, I'd recommend checking out Fab Lab. It is a non-profit community space that has all the equipment available to anyone who dabbles in everything from Raspberry Pi to all things electronics. You may be able to consign someone or do it yourself there.Their address is 847 14th Street, San Diego 92101

Hope this helps and good luck!

u/AshuraSavarra · 2 pointsr/Nerf

25W is a bit iffy, but I would focus on getting flux first as that's the greater contribution to your problem. For the sake of comparison, my personal soldering station is 60W, but it's also mostly overkill for rewiring toys.

u/RBPEDIIIAL · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I believe it is a Weller Soldering Iron. Amazon

u/Denis63 · 2 pointsr/soldering

Total amateur here. I use a Weller WES51

i went from using a cheap piece of crap bought locally to this unit. i've never used a non-cheap soldering iron before and i find this thing to be awesome. heats up super fast and it's way smaller than any other iron i've ever used. the silicone cord is worth the price of admission alone, imo. i frequently solder in a canadian unheated garage. not fighting with a stiff cable is heaven. parts are easy to come by online for whenever i break it or wear it out.

i recap a few game systems every now and then, i dont have many hours on it.

u/ss2man44 · 2 pointsr/3dshacks

&gt; You need a $120+ soldering iron

That's not necessarily true. This Weller is normally over $120, but it can be found for cheaper (like on Amazon.)

EEVblog, the author of the video linked above, even recommends (on a budget) this Hakko ripoff that even takes Hakko tips. Super cheap and is temperature controlled. You can find it cheaper than its Amazon listing too.

u/Mr_Quagmire · 2 pointsr/electronics

I just recently bought a Weller WES51 solder station and it seems like a very nice unit, the few times I've used it so far.

u/1000kai · 2 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

This is the soldering iron I used and the tip was the "pointy one".

u/mschock · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I highly recommend splurging a bit on your soldering station, saves a lot of heartache in the long run

Weller is pretty solid. This is what I have and I'd consider it to be a good entry-level model:

Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station

Also, yeah you're going to want variable and analog

Have fun and be careful!

u/Siege9929 · 2 pointsr/electronics

I'm hesitant to go against the grain on this one but I've had good luck with this. They also make an analog version.

u/ekojonsiaixelsyD · 2 pointsr/DIYGear

This. for $50, you can't beat these aoyue stations.

u/puddle_stomper · 2 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

If you want an upgraded soldering station for not much more, the Aoyue 937+ is a really great temperature controlled station. I think the temp control is worth the extra $22 on something that will last a lot of projects, though others may disagree.

u/UnstoppableDrew · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I would seriously think about getting a soldering iron so you can work on your projects whenever you want, not just when the local workshop is open. I have this Ayoue 937+, and a collection of tips, and it has served me well. Throw away the little sponge and get one of those brass brillo-pad type cleaners.

u/TheKillingVoid · 2 pointsr/arduino

I have an Aoyue that works quite well for $64 -

u/Zapf · 2 pointsr/Multicopter
u/tha-snazzle · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

The Aoyue 937+ is great. Enough power for anything in a multicopter, not expensive, and accepts Hakko tips. Just get some chisel tips, small and large, and you're golden.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1450081103&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=aoyue+937

I think it might be cheaper at Fry's too.

u/dreamsforgotten · 2 pointsr/OpenPV

I use this iron with no issue

Aoyue 937+ Digital Soldering Station - ESD Safe includes Spare Element UPDATED VERSION!!

u/corthander · 2 pointsr/Skookum

The main advantage of acetylene torch is the ability to get a very localized area hot very quickly. You can still get it hot with the yellow bottle torches (called Mapp still) or propane or butane (this is the one I was referring to Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch it just takes longer and so conduction has more chance to take effect and you end up heating a very large area.

I don't know about the bronze alloy. The silver solder I was using flowed at around 1200 F. I used the white paste flux which you also have to be careful with to not burn before you get a good flow. The color of the glow was one of my best indicators of temperature in the moment.

u/CreeperDays · 2 pointsr/trees
u/Benevoson · 2 pointsr/trees

When it comes to torches, your best bet is to invest a little more and get the GT 8000. It's built to last for years, so chances are you're never going to need to buy another torch.

But as far as your dabs go, I don't think that the torch would cause that issue. Like the others said, maybe let it get seasoned a little bit.

u/Bula710 · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

BBaB Bonjour Creme Brulee torch is the best IMO. I have a 14mm domeless and it takes about 25 seconds to heat up, I can usually get about 50 dabs before I have to refill. A can of butane lasts me 5-6 grams of shatter with this torch. The Big Shot torch is also a good one:

What is active carbon used for?

For Butane, I just use whatever is on sale, for your torch it doesn't really matter. Lately I have been using Power 5x since it's 2 for $5 at my local smoke shop. You can buy a case on Amazon for like $38.

u/aomerrill98 · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

I just love my torch and it's easily my most favorite of all the ones I've had. It's the Blazer Gt8000 Big Shot. Little bit pricey but in my opinion its worth it for how fast it heats up the nail and for how much you'll be using it haha

u/TechJunky1 · 2 pointsr/concentrates

That could be just a faulty seal as I assume it's leaking from where you fill it?

I would recommend
You can find it on sale for 60$ and I've had it dabbing daily for 2 years. A solid device.

u/Nugrun · 2 pointsr/Dabs

I have the Vector Nitro, the bigger $70 one. Great torch, but my igniter went out (common issue with this torch). So it could take a few clicks to get it to go or I need to use a flame to get it going. It does come with a lifetime warranty, so I can get it replaced but I'm lazy.
But I recommend you buy the Blazer GT8000. It's only $20 more and it will be so much better than the small torches. I would have bought it but the Vector torch was a gift
I also have a Blazer Micro Torch, great little back up torch. I've had it since 2012 and it still works great.

u/paperclouds412 · 2 pointsr/Dabs

The Big Shot is the highest quality hand torch that I've ever used or seen anywhere, they're incredible. It's on Amazon for $53 right now. Unless the size is a huge problem, you wont find a better torch. If you do get a Big Shot the red piece of plastic that goes over the fuel knob is meant for traveling, I've known wayyy to many people who threw them out.

If the Big Shot is too big then go with the Big Buddy. Vetor are straight up relabeled Chinese designed torches, companies like Newport and Blazer at least design their own.

u/Dabs2Review · 2 pointsr/Dabs Hands down the best torch I have had, Going strong on 2 years now.

u/Jakweese · 1 pointr/arduino

I decided to do PWM. If I use a transistor I won't need a heat sink, right? Will I need any capacitors?

these are the parts I've found so far (Other than motion sensors, short jumper wires, and other common items)

Transistor \

Relays/ One or the other, transistors preferably


Nano Every


Barrel Jack

Soldering Iron


Lights + Cable - Would the cable work with the barrel jack to provide power for the Nano Every and the LEDs?


u/wicken-chings · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/_pigpen_ · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Amazon has an entry level adjustable temp Weller iron on a deal right now:


For your purposes even this is probably over kill.

u/Dozenal2112 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

So I'm trying to beat the biggest hurdle in building a mechanical keyboard: soldering. I'm currently looking at this station,;amp;qid=1521069134&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=weller+iron&amp;amp;dpID=41B9YPknwfL&amp;amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;amp;dpSrc=srch, which seems to be pretty decent. However what's concerning is the lack of digital display for the temperature and it only having 40W to work with. Are there any you guys would recommend to me under 50 usd? I'm probably not going to use it often after this. I just want an iron that ensures I won't fuck up my pcb or at least drastically reduces the chances of it happening. I would also like to know which solder would you normally use for these types of things and what type of tips should I use. I also heard that BOX switches are easier to solder. Can somebody explain to me the meaning of this and why?

u/Bleedthebeat · 1 pointr/mildlyinfuriating

You could go with this one and it would be better than anything you could get for $20.

But it’s definitely worth the extra money to go with

This one

or this one

I have the Hakko and a buddy has the Weller so I’ve used them both and they’re both great stations.

u/Ploofy · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

I don't have one yet. Any recommendations? I've seen this one suggested in other posts.

u/woooden · 1 pointr/diydrones

Soldering is one of those tasks where it really pays off to invest a little bit more in your tools at the beginning. /u/1-11 mentioned the Weller WLC100 - I second this recommendation. I've had one for almost 8 years and it's never let me down, though I bought a nicer iron a few years ago (Aoyue 968A+) and the Weller hasn't seen much use since.

The kit you posted is probably not very high quality. I would steer away from it and spend the extra money to get something you know will perform well for years. You do want some of the things from that kit, though:

  • Solder sucker

  • Solder wick

  • Tweezers

  • Various tips

  • Flux (I use a flux pen similar to this one for most things as it's a little easier to apply)

    A good way to practice is to get some perf board (the tan-colored breadboard-looking PCB prototyping boards), a pack of random wires and/or resistors/capacitors, and just start soldering things in. SparkFun sells some good kits for beginner soldering, and they have a few good tutorials as well.

    Always use flux, always tin your wires before soldering them to anything, and always hold the iron on the solder long enough for it to completely flow. Learn how to use solder wick and you'll be able to repair just about anything. Finally, always tin your tips before storing the iron - don't want the tips to corrode!
u/Lumumba · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've thought about this and even called They would do it for $2 a switch + $30 which I thought was reasonable, but still too expensive.

If I were to do it myself and buy clears for ... $0.6 - $0.7 a piece I'll be at almost $200 for the 750r. What else is involved with desoldering and re-soldering this board (for someone with no experience?)

I will be buying this soldering station soon:;amp;qid=1481820105&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+station&amp;amp;tag=dailydeal0c6-20

u/CBNathanael · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you don't own a soldering iron, but foresee yourself continuing down this road in the future, I implore you to buy a decent soldering iron. Getting a cheap $10 iron will just result in horrible joints and a lot of frustration.

Start off with something like the [Weller WLC100](]. It's a no-frills iron, but it's quality and will serve you well. One of these little metal sponges is great addition, too. Better than using a wet sponge to clean your tip.

As for kits...I don't know off hand. Listen to the others for that advice. Just try to do something that's through-hole and not SMD for your first project.

u/cinch123 · 1 pointr/arduino

Yeah I have a Weller WLC100 that I like a lot. Most of my other tools are dime store pliers, snippers and strippers. I wouldn't mind upgrading some of those. I do have a PanaVise 300 on the list too since this one is a pain for electronics soldering.

u/TheSirCheddar · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Kiraisuki · 1 pointr/Gameboy

It's a fairly simple process. Just open the game, desolder the old battery, solder the new one, and close the game.

Make sure the new battery is the same type as the old one; a CR2032 probably won't fit in a game that uses a CR1616. Make sure the batteries you order have tabs. It's generally not a good idea to solder directly to batteries, so the tabs make it much easier to mount. As for the batteries themselves, just find an eBay seller with good feedback and you should be fine.

Take your time and be careful, and you should be able to do it just fine. If you're worried you'll mess it up, watch some soldering how-to videos and practice on some old junk board before you move on to a Gameboy game. If you don't already have a soldering iron, the Weller WLC100 is a great, inexpensive, variable-temperature soldering iron that is frequently recommended here. I have it and it works perfectly. 60/40 rosin-core leaded solder should be fine for this; it's what I've used for my cart battery replacements and I've had no issues with it.

u/bojangles09 · 1 pointr/battlestations

Yes. this is the product page for it.

u/morbetter · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Boucherwayne78 · 1 pointr/laptops

If you can't get it with a Q-tip, it's nothing to worry about. Grab yourself a soldering iron on Amazon, as well as some quality solder and flux. I will link some in an edit to this comment in a few minutes. Also, screw everyone else in this thread, that is damn near the perfect amount of thermal paste.

EDIT: Here are my recommendations and reasons!



Cheapo soldering iron:



This one will do you some good for the quick fix, although I can't speak to the longevity of the iron or its ability to melt some of the higher temperature solders that factories use.


More expensive (but WAAAAAAY BETTER) iron:



This is a great soldering iron if you think electronics is something you'd like to get into. Quality replaceable tips are available, and it has a stand and comes with a cleaning sponge. I've used these, and absolutely love them. Honestly though, if this is going to be one of very few times you solder, just go for the cheap one.






The cheap iron comes with some solder, and honestly you can probably get away with that for this one repair. If you decide to get the more premium iron though, here is some good solder:



OR (I've never used this particular solder but MG chemicals is a great brand)



I usually stick to smaller diameter solders because you have a lot more control over how much you're putting onto a joint. This stuff is good, but really you just need to make sure it's lead solder because it melts a lot easier and is easier for beginners to work with.






If you want your joints to form and form well, you need some flux. At least coming from me, this is mandatory. Here's some good no-clean flux that you can use that will mostly evaporate off and shouldn't be much fuss to clean.






Although kind of slow, here's a pretty good soldering guide. This relates more to soldering electrical components, but most of the lessons remain the same.


Best of luck!

u/kDubya · 1 pointr/OpenPV


For solder I would just go to RadioShack and get the thinnest stuff they have.

Edit - it's probably all they'll have, but make sure you get rosin core. Lead free or leaded is up to you.

u/z3rocool · 1 pointr/arduino

No one taught me how to solder, I just kinda did it. Buy a soldering iron (like I said get one in the $50 range, obviously if you have money to burn a $100-$200 one is going to be 'better'. I use a WLC100 ) some solder, and start connecting components together. I would also pick up a desoldering tool, I use one of those bulbs but there are better/different types out there.

You can use use a breadboard with wires. That's sorta the recommended way to experiment. I tend to move things to protoboard pretty quickly as I find things get messy quickly and it's easy to disconnect things.

I should say I'm not an expert - I'm actually more of a beginner in the world of electronics, but I thought I would share my experiences of how I got started because the path is not totally clear.

I really wish someone told me that ebay/china was the place to go for components. It's stupid but it's just so much cheaper. (I got burned with sparkfun when I was building a project, $100 of parts, $50 shipping - I wanted it fast and it wasn't that much more - then the kicker $50 in import fees/duty at my door) After that I learned mouser was good, $200 and you get free shipping and duty - ended up ordering lots of random things and lots of things in bulk - need one resistor? Might as well get 1000 :). I recently learned digikey is in canada and does fairly cheap shipping so I tend to order from there now if I NEED something fast.

Ebay is the best though for stuff if you're in no rush though, and totally the best place to get stuff like protoboard, breadboard, jumper wires, resistor packs (assorted resistors) LED's, assorted IC's, etc.

u/mr_af · 1 pointr/arduino
u/F0xdude · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

When soldering with my cheap, $15 soldering kit, I notice there is a lot of gunk left on the joints (not the orange-ish flux, it's more of black flakes). Should I buy a new Iron, or is it more likely to be the solder itself?

Also, for a new iron, I was looking at saving a bit of money and going for the weller WLC100. Is this a decent choice? I know a hakko is ideal but I don't feel like spending that much at the moment.

u/jswilson64 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Here's a Weller station for about twice the price of the HK iron. I have this, and it's sufficient for hobby stuff, at least what I do.

I use a copper scouring pad (Chore Boy!) stuffed into a small tin can (cat food size) to clean the tip.

u/thelectronicnub · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You could, but I wouldn't recommend it. I'd recommend this one, it's cheap and well constructed.

u/jmassaglia · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this Velleman soldering station and it has worked great for me. There are horror stories in Amazon's comments, but I have never had problems with temperature fluctuation and I've desoldered entire keyboards as well as assembled various projects.

If I was to buy one again, I'd probably buy this Weller model. It's a few dollars more, but they make good stuff.

u/pyramid_of_greatness · 1 pointr/LAlist

I am out of town, but can try to help..

Cheap soldering kits make it hard to get a good, consistent temperature on the tip, and the recovery time (time for the tip to get hot again after bringing it down by cleaning, etc) is poor. You'd want to get an adjustable one if possible. You could easily be working too hot and causing yourself problems. Lead free solder is harder to work with. I have a Hakko that I love, but something in this range would be a worthwhile investment and a fine iron.

As for the soldering, you really are just jamming the iron into the two pieces of metal you are trying to join, and then slowly feeding the solder into the junction. Use as little as you need to get a tiny, clean joint, and never a 'bubble'.

Removing solder is a horse of a different color. That is a pain in the ass. For that, you will want a lot of flux and a hot-hot iron (as hot as you can go before you start damaging things/burning down the house like you say). It's not fun to remove these components. Sometimes you get lazy and snip out the old one and try to work out the lead with a needle-nose and the iron (fluxed up hole) at the same time. Helping hands or a good vise can be crucial for this.

I'm no great master at it, but it's really one of those things you can pick up watching a few youtube videos or hearing instructions (with the right equipment) and pick up. I taught a friend the other day for a project they are working on. It really is just practice to get good, and that seems to happen quickly once you get a feel for working the solder.

u/xXriderXx7 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Here's a god beginners kit. There are cheaper ones but this is good to learn with and potentially move on to other solder projects.;amp;qid=1484598795&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41B9YPknwfL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

And as for advice. YouTube. I can sit here and tell you how to do it, but you need to see it done to really understand. Search for soldering tutorials, there's plenty.

u/IAmBloodBrother · 1 pointr/dreamcast

As far as practicing on something, i took an old PC tower apart that my dad gave me, i have all the pcb still, as well as a battery holder (score), so ive got scrap to mess with. I will snag some cat5 cable too, thanks for that.
This is the iron I intend to get when i get the ball rolling with my modding:;amp;psc=1

I have considered the Dream Ide Reborn, but I however fancy an internal HDD mod, and so I think this is the route i would go:

u/bmilcs · 1 pointr/headphones

My soldering iron the popular:;amp;psc=1

I only use at at 1/2 power so I would think 30watt is more than enough.

u/MediocreBadGuy23 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sure do! I was looking at the Massdrop listing for the KC60 and then found this kit for it on aliexpress. Thought it'd be a great learning experience to build my own. I've got a pretty extensive list of possible soldering irons on Amazon like Weller WLC100, Soaiy 60 watt, and a couple more from Vastar and Weller. I'm completely new to this so I'm not trying to spend a fortune on the iron

u/arapawa · 1 pointr/diypedals

I started with a cheap iron from Radioshack and gave up on soldering for years because I sucked at it.

Then I upgraded to this Weller station and suddenly I was soldering like a pro. Temperature adjustment is amazing.

I don't know about any of the super-cheap ones on Amazon, but there's definitely value in spending more to get a great iron.

u/Cuntrover · 1 pointr/ebikes

That makes sense. I've been using this a 40W iron I picked up cheap off Amazon, and it barely cuts it for the bigger wires.;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

u/SpaceMan420gmt · 1 pointr/Guitar

Is this an ok soldering iron for guitar work? Will it heat a Strat claw up enough to solder the ground?;psc=1

u/dstarr3 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have a Weller 40-watt soldering iron. Specifically, this one:

Works great for soldering. But does anyone have any experience with this iron and desoldering? Specifically, will it get hot enough to melt the lead-free solder that mass-manufacturers use?

u/skiwithpete · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

oh, yeah, a used Hakko would be ace.

Weller are also good. and a lot less expensive.

u/DohBot · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/NlightNme23 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Sorry for the late reply. First of all, take all of this with a grain of salt. This is my first build, so I am by no means an expert. You should definitely look in to all this on your own rather than blindly trust my purchases.
Here are the tools I got in my Amazon order:

u/st1tchy · 1 pointr/Gameboy

I use this one and I love it. It has temperature control in the form of a dial (1-5, not degrees) and the iron itself plugs into the base, so if it breaks or something, it is replaceable.

u/Whitehawk1313 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

going to be soldering my very first keyboard ever. Can you let me know if this will work? I will not be using this to often so I don't need a expensive kit

solder station

solder - is the size right?

u/flazyman · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I've had this Weller for years, it works great. It's on sale right now for $30, definitely worth the money

u/metafizikal · 1 pointr/Zeos

Sweet. I was thinking of something a bit cheaper, might get this. Seems like the one you linked has a much better temperature control system.

For basic soldering are different tip types really that necessary?

u/mtn_dewgamefuel · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this one and it's done pretty well for soldering, desoldering, and resoldering my custom board.

u/ZeroMercuri · 1 pointr/Nerf

This is complete overkill for NERF needs but Weller is known for high quality soldering irons

This is the one I use but it's over your budget (I do more than NERF stuff)

This is what I would recommend for starting out. It's good but totally not stupid expensive.

I would avoid soldering irons that don't have the cradle/base (although you can buy a cradle separately)

u/ahalekelly · 1 pointr/Nerf

Yep, I've used several of them at school and they're pretty bad, I can't believe they have so many good reviews. This $100 Weller is temperature controlled and quite good, the $40 one is not. I'd probably go for the 936 and a brass sponge, my 936+ is on par with the $100 Wellers and Hakkos.

u/cookie_steez · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

What model would you recommend? I want to get started on this and was looking at this iron. Thoughts?

u/crashmaxed · 1 pointr/AnimeFigures

I've got nothing but good things to say about my Weller WES51 which comes in just under $100. Heats up from cold to temp in about 30-40 seconds or so. Can also hot-change tips if you've got something like a good silicone mat to unscrew the threaded holder. I really can't say anything about other temp controlled stations like Hakkos or [insert your favorite brand here] since I've had my Weller for several years without issue. I pair it with a cheap desoldering pump and a dedicated old cheap desoldering iron.

u/LukemBro · 1 pointr/Quadcopter
u/VashTStamp · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I have the Weller WES51 and I really love it. I can definitely recommenced it.

Also, I recommend getting some solder tip wire cleaner, such as this one. If you plan on doing a fair amount of soldering.

u/slick8086 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

That wax like block may have been flux.

you can clean your tip with a brass sponge or a wet regular sponge (that's what I use) I've had my iron for years. I clean the tip frequently while using it. It will last for years to come. If you get soldering station like a Weller (this is the one I have) or a Hakko You will be able to change the tips. This is good for replacing damaged ones or getting different shaped/sized tips. To me having a "nice" soldering iron makes it more enjoyable to solder. Also get or make a fume extractor.

u/Ataripezman · 1 pointr/engineering

Thanks for you advice everyone. Ultimately I decided to go with the Weller WES51 upon a recommendation from an EE friend. I really liked that Ebay one dammitd recommended but I don't have an ebay account.

Thanks /R/engineering!

u/sleepybrett · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

It's always worth buying the best tool you can afford unless it's single use. I have a decent weller that I've since replaced with a very decent Hakko.

This is a very nice iron that will serve you well:

This is my older iron, served me well, the only reason I switched to the hakko is because I bought one for work and ended up liking it:;amp;qid=1462577050&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=weller

u/bscottprice · 1 pointr/Gameboy

If you plan on doing a lot of modding and soldering, don't go cheap. I recommend a Weller (I use a Weller WES51 for 90% of what I do. They are built very well, and I honestly can't think of anyone with any experience with soldering electronics that would tell you otherwise. I have access to a full rework station from Pace that retails for around $14,000 and I generally prefer the Weller. Hakko is another good brand and I would recommend them as well.

u/gamma_ray_burst · 1 pointr/DIY

I was shopping around for a kit. Is this the one you own?

I have an amazon gift certificate, so I was thinking of picking up one of these Weller units. Any opinions? It seems like overkill, so I wondered how good you find the temp control on yours and whether the features on the other model would be worth it in the long run for occasional projects.

u/schuylercat · 1 pointr/vintageaudio


What you said: "First guesses? Input differential pair transistors have drifted in gain with respect to each other or you have a leaky coupling cap."

What I heard: : "Blah freaking blah blah la di da blah loo de loo blah transistors yadda yadda whatever gain la de doo blah blah blah coupling cap."

I have far to go.

Also - this is what I was going to get:;amp;qid=1404330430&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=weller

$125 CDN. I can do that. I don't wanna, though. My Radio Shack 40 watt station gets terrible reviews, and I think I might upgrade.

I'll look into the little Weller. Thanks!

Oh, then I will ask "what's a coupling cap?" Those the big ones between the PS and the main boards?

u/ConvolutedUtility · 1 pointr/DIY

I've got one of these

Love it. Definitely look for something with adjustable temps and replaceable tips.

u/Ch3t · 1 pointr/arduino

MakerShed has a practice kit for $9.95. I would recommend getting a good soldering iron. The Weller WES51 is really nice. For years I just thought I sucked at soldering. It turns out it was the crappy Radio Shack iron I was using. You can get very small tips for the Weller that make soldering easy. If possible, attend a Maker Faire. They have several tents/booths where they teach you to solder. Mitch Altman is often in attendance and teaches soldering on the Learn to Solder Skill Badge. He has a comic book on soldering.

u/ab3ju · 1 pointr/DIY

All of this. Coating the tip with a glob of solder when you're done with it is a good idea -- flick the solder off when you next use it and all of the oxidation goes with it.

I've got one of these and it's well worth it.

u/wdouglass · 1 pointr/PS4

A good soldering iron should be $80-$100;amp;qid=1415792954&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;keywords=weller+soldering+iron+100+watt

That's probably more then you need though. just get a small butane iron;amp;qid=1415793030&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=butane+soldering+iron

and you'll need solder and flux, and probably some solder wick in case you screw anything up. there's plenty of youtube videos to show you how it all works.

u/TheN00bBuilder · 1 pointr/rccars

Machined hex drivers; I've had a set of Dynamite Machined ones for 4 years now and only have had to replace the tip once when I dropped the 1.5MM one onto concrete. Do NOT buy the anodized ones, those use soft metals that will wear down easily. Also, a good soldering iron isn't required, but it sure as heck makes everything a whole lot easier. I'd also suggest some basic nut drivers like 4-7MM almost like these. A magnetic parts tray will also make your life easier.

u/EnigmaticElectronics · 1 pointr/computers

We actually have a video on this very topic Here - Getting Started in Electronics - Episode 3 - Soldering Equipment

The new Weller in that video is mine. I splurged a little and bought that when I first got started and I love it. I bought it from Amazon: Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station

u/pwade3 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I just got this as my first soldering iron. I figured if I was going to do it, I shouldn't get something cheap and shitty. Seemed to work great, but I'm a beginner so it's hard to say for certain.

u/nevereven · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

From my pile to be sold on eBay:

Weller WES51 soldering station

Panavise 301 (new)

Ideal 61-635 Multimeter

Toshiba Pocket PC

NetGear WN311B WiFi PCI card and antenna

NetGear Rangemax N150

Chelsea 6" Mechanical Brass ships clock It's beautiful and think how much fun you will have winding it every few days.

u/reason78 · 1 pointr/ECE
u/DerpeyBloke · 1 pointr/RetroPie

I have the digital version of this and couldn't be happier. I got it as a gift so I probably would have gone for something cheaper myself but Weller has a bunch of alternatively priced ones for less with good reviews as well.

u/littlebiggtoe · 1 pointr/Gameboy

If you plan on doing more hobby work that involves soldering, I would highly recommend getting a better iron, prefererably one with a variable temperature range. There are plenty of good options from Hako and Wells that don't break the bank and are much easier to use than the cheap irons.

I have this station

Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station

And this pack of tips

Voultar (a great modder to follow, check out his soldering videos for inspiration) posted a good video on a decent iron station he found

Good solder goes a long way to helping make soldering a lot better.

And yes, the clip on loupe is amazing! It magnifies tiny smd stuff really well. I can't recommend it enough.

u/YumYumCookieChips · 1 pointr/cableporn

Gotta get the right iron and solder for sure, if you have anything from RadioShack it will never work.

Weller WES51

Kester Solder

u/ttreit · 1 pointr/livesound

My business partner and I just started making our own cables in December. We use Switchcraft connectors (personal preference) and Canare Star Quad cable. It hasn't been too hard to learn on star quad. We use a Weller WES51 which is around $85.

Also recommend a brass sponge and this helping hands tool if you have the budget for it.

EDIT: Neither one of us had really soldered much before, but we did have someone showing us how to do it. So Quad-Core might be tough if you're totally trying to teach yourself.

u/z2amiller · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I have the hot air only version of the first one, the 858D. It's okay, gets the job done. I got it on the recommendation of a friend who uses it all the time and is really happy with it.

For a soldering iron though, IMO you'd be better served by something name brand like the Hakko FX888D or the Weller WES51. I have the WESD51 and it has served me well. For J Random Soldering Iron, the temperature control might not be very good, and it might be tough getting different tips.

A decent budget option might be a hakko 936 knockoff, which should have pretty good availability of replacement tips.

u/fissionforatoms · 1 pointr/diyelectronics

Thanks for the reply! For reference I live in Canada so sadly, the prices are more by default. The WES51 looks good, I found it on for CAD$140. I'll either get that or something like a Hakko, it seems like they sell high quality soldering stations.

u/rykki · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I absolutely agree that a variable temp iron is better. However, OP made it sound like they were on a pretty tight budget and I couldn't in good conscious recommend &gt;&gt;SOMETHING LIKE THIS&lt;&lt; that would take up their entire budget. Especially since they are just learning and they might decide they don't like it (learning to solder well takes patience and a fair bit of dexterity...... high reliability soldering course was one of the most frustrating courses I took during my technical training).

Having said all that, though, I've done a fair bit of work in the field using one of those portable butane irons. You just have to be careful and know what you're doing. :)

Those little vises are freaking magic. I see those helping hands clip things all over and never have I preferred one over a proper articulating table vise.

u/eat_pb · 1 pointr/arduino

If you want something that will last you and is of very good quality, I recommend Weller. They're basically an industry standard. I just purchased this one:;amp;qid=1343171327&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=Weller+analog

If you want to get really fancy you can get the digital model, it's about 130$.

u/tallpotusofa · 1 pointr/Luthier

My success rate with wiring guitar builds increased greatly when I bought a "nice" soldering iron and some small diameter solder. You'll get much cleaner joints with a soldering iron that lets you control the temperature. I bought this Weller soldering station, and it was the best investment I've made.

u/madscientistEE · 1 pointr/vintageaudio

Dirt cheap, low on features but OK quality:

Avoid the Wal Mart multimeter...I'm not happy to see a non category rated meter from GE of all companies. It's actually a rip off at $20....I've seen similar meters online for $5 and had the unfortunate experience of using one.

The Extech 430 is a good all rounder. It's Cat III with auto ranging and has bare bones capacitance and frequency counting. True RMS measurement allows you to measure AC things other than just 60Hz sine waves. (you need true RMS for checking amp output at 1kHz among other things) I own one and aside from the nasty yellow-green backlight and somewhat short battery life, it rocks. Comes with a temperature probe too, which you'll find useful.

If you're serious and want data logging without going all out on a $300-500 industrial meter from the likes of Fluke, give this a try. It looks cool as heck but possibly has a bit of a learning curve due to the menu instead of a dial. Cat III to 600V too. It does everything the Extech 430 does and more.

Soldering Irons...

The classic pencil tip "fire starter":;amp;filterName=Type&amp;amp;filterValue=Soldering+irons

You get what you pay for there but I've fixed many things with ones just like this. Larger joints may need more heat, they make 40 and 60W irons for that. Tip life on these cheap irons is poor. Poor tips make poor joints. Replace them if they go bad. Do not sharpen one.

BUT...instead of having 3 low quality irons knocking around the shop, I recommend people go straight for an adjustable heat soldering station like this one:

Buy a couple spare tips if you order a soldering station. Local availability of these is nil. The stations usually have better irons, heat control that actually works and far better tips.

This soldering station and its more expensive digital counterpart, the WESD51 are a bit pricey. On the other hand, they're totally awesome and the gold standard in many shops:

Once you get a station, you'll wonder how you ever got along without one. Good tools make the best repairs.

u/indirect_storyteller · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Continuing this thought process, I just got this iron and [this](;amp;psc=1) solder in the mail the other day and they've treated me incredibly well. If that's out of our price range then I suggest getting only the solder and going for a cheaper iron.

u/jaykaizen · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I'm basically in the same boat as you so I cant help you much but here's some places that can.
I haven't watched that video but there are is a few on YouTube.

try doing a search here and if you still have questions do a post.

Thsee are two highly rated soldering stations on amazon;amp;sr=8-9&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron;amp;sr=8-19&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41sCMxh%2BAYL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

And you may want to get these

You may want to start with an unregulated or an okr or raptor build. It'll be cheaper and its easy to find tutorials on building them online. That is probably what I will start with.

u/s33plusplus · 1 pointr/OpenPV

I have owned an Aoyue 937+ station for 4-5 years now, and it's treated me well. Takes hakko tips, and you can source parts for the station domestically. Amazon link here!

u/frankslan · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette;amp;qid=1395077736&amp;amp;sr=8-15&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron

get a good iron, solder, and those magnifier hands. Then just start playing with soldering wire together and then do a project. Search youtube how to solder it's pretty easy. Oh and wear safety glasses sometimes the wire will slip or something weird happens and solder goes flying towards your eyes, better to be safe than sorry.

u/snowtoaster · 1 pointr/vaporents
u/icedtrip · 1 pointr/dreamcast

If you plan on taking it further than just simple mods a couple times a year, I recommend spending a little more if you can. You don't have to go crazy either. I know that a lot of people go the Hakko or Weller route, but I've been very happy with my Aoyue 9378. Here is the Aoyue 937+ which is cheaper (45w vs 60w and a couple other things). Like others have said, get some wick and grab one of these over the sponge crap.

EDIT: Oh, and pick up some flux. There are flux fans and some that use it sparingly, but just pick it up.

Also, this goes much further than just installing a battery holder, but check out Voultar's videos to watch some technique. He's also a liberal flux / No Clean user and you'll see why.

u/angstwad · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I bought this recently and don't regret it. Definitely an upgrade from a POS RadioShack pencil iron of days past.

u/Compupaq · 1 pointr/originalxbox

I have an older model of this solder station. It's held up pretty well in the 9 years I've owned it. Still on the original heating element too.

There are cheaper Hakko solder stations out there too, like this basic unit. You should also invest in some flux and a solder sucker if you ever plan on desoldering anything.

u/andrewq · 1 pointr/ECE

I have several of these aoyue 937+'s

Read the reviews on amazon, or google them. For $54 delivered (with Prime), they are the best value out there.

u/greeensmaaan · 1 pointr/arduino
u/blahlicus · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

The first one you pointed to provides a constant wattage setting, what you want is a constant temperature soldering station/iron, so that's not what you should look for. (its better to just get a "dumb" 25 watt iron instead at that point)

When I said Weller or Hakko I meant the robust WES51 or the FX888, but if those are outside of your price range, thats fine, the ubiquitous Hakko 936 has a ton of clones which are very cheap and some of them do actually have decent quality (see video discussing the topic, you might also want to google "936,"
936 clone," "936d," etc for more info).

I personally know some factory people due to my line of work and there seem to be 2 noteworthy brands of clone manufacturer, Aoyue and YiHua, Aoyue is the more premium brand and YiHua is the mass produced brand, apparently both are commonly used by factory workers and they are quite good because factory workers also need good equipment due to the nature of their trade.

I would look for a Aoyue 936 clone if I were you, just get this or this if you must use amazon, or search "aoyue" in fleabay.

u/R1cket · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

My recommendation is to buy this soldering station. It's what I use, I'm not very good at soldering but I did my research and found it to be very good for the money. It's temperature controlled. Don't throw away your old soldering iron; if you abuse the element and it breaks then it comes with a spare but the spare has to be soldered on (sort of a catch-22 for someone who doesn't have a second soldering iron).

The important thing though, is it's compatible with Hakko soldering iron tips; this is apparently the popular station (much more expensive) and lots of tips are made for it. So then I bought this pack of tips and I'm all set. Rule of thumb: use the biggest tip you can, and use one with a flat edge to it (like the chisel tip) because it gets more surface area in contact with the thing you're heating up.

As for the actual action of soldering, I haven't figured out the magic formula either but I'm doing pretty decent. I do recommend you look up tutorials on how to maintain the soldering iron tip (clean and re-tin it after everything, don't leave it dry, etc). And use ample amounts of flux, that's something some people don't do. Flux helps the heat flow and you can't really have too much of it (it just gets messy/leave black stains but who cares).

Read a ton of my soldering tips in this comment:

u/hamcake · 1 pointr/geek

I've heard this Aoyue station is pretty good for the price. Anyone have experience with it?

u/mars_rovinator · 1 pointr/3dshacks

$120+ is overkill.

I got hubs one of these:

He uses it for fiddly tiny electronics components for projects, mods, prototypes, etc. It's an excellent digitally controlled soldering station for way less - it's $60!

u/fxgn · 1 pointr/C710LORADO

I really like this torch:

Can't go wrong, $48, best flame I've seen and more capacity for tane.

u/TheDukeOfErrl · 1 pointr/foodhacks

You want a good torch - the ones for plumbing are decent, but won't be optimal for what you're looking to do. The "cone" you were talking about just adjusts how complete the combustion is - a yellower flame means more air is added and less pure fuel is burning. A good torch will burn the fuel very efficiently and give you a pure blue flame, which in turn will eat up all the fuel, and leave behind no undesirables.

This is a good torch - but very powerful;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1370986935&amp;amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;amp;keywords=blazer+bigshot+torch

u/dnmel · 1 pointr/DankNation

This for sure. The GT8000 bigshot is the best I've seen and definitely worth the extra few bucks

u/desktop_monster · 1 pointr/DankNation
u/uritarded · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

There's no way this torch could get a TI nail red hot in 5 seconds. Creme brulee torches heat at 2500 *C and it still doesn't heat up a TI nail red hot in 5 seconds. The best torch I've seen is a blazer big shot. Little more than a vector torch, and heats up TI faster.

u/soleseeking · 1 pointr/Dabs

For an extra 20$ you can get a blazer GT8000 and save your banger. Also butane is stupid cheap.

u/Jackattack1616 · 1 pointr/Cooking

Just got my “Blazer” torch from Amazon, and it works fantastically. The flame is steady and long for cooking it any other needs. It’s also very durable and doesn’t seem like it will break anytime soon

Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch

u/snobord · 1 pointr/trees
u/SteveAndTheCrigBoys · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

Butane torches, I've loved my Newport (it comes in other colors if gold isn't your thing). My guy has one of those and a Blazer Big Shot which is nice as well. Both have stood the test of time. The Newport you can operate with one hand, the Big Shot is possible to operate with one hand but slightly more difficult. I ordered a 6-pack of Newport butane with my torch and it's performed wonderfully. A cheap Bernzomatic torch from Home Depot will conk out on you, so just factor that in to whether you want to make another trip to pick up a new torch in 6 months, or buy a slightly more expensive one that'll last twice as long if not longer.

If you're going the propane route and have a TI nail, just make sure you don't overheat your nail. Titanium reacts with oxygen when it reaches a certain temperature, creating titanium oxide (the white coating you see on some TI nails) and titanium dioxide dust, which you can inhale and is definitely not good for you. You can reach this temp with butane or propane, but because propane burns about 1000 degrees (F) hotter than butane, you can reach that temp much easier. Those big blue propane tanks at Home Depot run about $5 though, if you're looking for a cheap and efficient route.

u/legacy702 · 1 pointr/supremeclothing

Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch

It's way worth it

u/LightSquancher · 1 pointr/steak

How are you cooking? I'm mostly familiar with sous vide, but it has some similarities with reverse searing. I use a powerful butane torch to finish my steaks and burgers. My dad, when he has some extra hands around, does a combo with a super hot butter filled cast iron. One person torches the top and the other bastes with the butter, but I think this is more complicated than needed. I'm very happy with just a torch. I use

I use the torch for dabbing too, it's very well made.

u/o0DrWurm0o · 1 pointr/AskCulinary

Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane Torch

I got one of these for my birthday. It's not as powerful as one of the nozzles that fits on the large butane tanks, but it's a great compromise between compact size and power.

u/GoneGonorrhea · 1 pointr/EntExchange

$50 with free shipping on Amazon or $40 from this hardware store. So it's just $50 max for a brand new torch... Not $85 for that shitty, used combo. I need what you're smoking if you think you have a good deal haha!

Good try though.

u/Exfiltrate · 1 pointr/EntExchange
u/THEMIKEBERG · 1 pointr/trees

It's all personal taste, there are some torches that require you to hold the "trigger" down to keep it lit and there are some that only require you press the ignition once.

I prefer the torches that require you press it once, when it comes to torches you absolutely get what you pay for.

You might also want to take into consideration a torch that has "child safety" features, they can be a real pain if you are consistently dabbing and don't have children or somehow have a system that guarantees child safety.

This is the torch I use, simple design, large flame, heats up my rig way quicker than any other torches I've used.

I'm not sure if you could caramelize sugar with this torch as the flame is massive. But if you plan on dabbing a lot and can keep it away from children I highly recommend it.

u/la_carne · 1 pointr/eldertrees

Highly recommend this one. Friend and I both have one and we've been using them for ~3 years. Best torches we've used.

u/mobile_monster_ · 1 pointr/DankNation
u/Promackid · 1 pointr/mobilerepair

I use this day in and day out. Does its job and never fails.

u/lightcolorsound · 1 pointr/roasting

I️ just got into doing the HG/DB method from researching this sub. Can’t tell you how my roasts have turned out as today was the first batch, but here’s my set up. The slow feeder bowl is supposed to distribute the heat better. I️ also have an air popper but am not fond of the small batch size.

OurPets DuraPet Slow Feed Premium Stainless Steel Dog Bowl

Wagner Power Products 503008 HT 1000 1,200-Watt Heat Gun

u/paiknef · 1 pointr/cosplay

Heat Gun

/r/cosplayers is better for questions and advice

u/mekender · 1 pointr/Flipping
u/matchtaste · 1 pointr/geek

Heat gun like this normally used for stripping paint / general home repair will do just fine. Heat from the back evenly and the parts will be in acceptable condition. Should be less than $30. I've got some ram and PCI slots here that I unsoldered using a comparable heat gun to troll people with. ("You really unsoldered each one of those pins by hand!?") It's also really handy to re-use the jacks, headers, and connectors for other projects.

u/DenimMan13 · 1 pointr/CAguns

While $55 does seem a little high for a magazine release with the amount of engineering, marketing, and production the price is reasonable, especially if you do not want to register.

There is also the Patriot Mag Lock for $45 or the classic Prince50 for $17

Where are you finding grip wraps for $150? a Monsterman Grip is $45
an Exile Machine Hammerhead Grip is $30

If you want a Thordsen FRS-15 or a Hera Arms Featureless Stock Then you will be spending ~$150

Of course you could make your own Kydex grip wrap for $11 plus [hardware] (;amp;qid=1483519643&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=kydex) and a heat gun

u/alberto_v · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

The reason why I hate glossy black plastic. I only did the inserts on the doors and the 2 little ones behind the steering wheel.

I used the heat gun to heat up the edges of the inserts to soften them a bit, so the wrap could be pushed up and behind using the squeegee. You'll need to use a razer to cut the wrap by the door handle though.

Buy extra wrapping and take your time. Or pay someone to do them lol.

Gunmetal grey wrap

Heat gun


u/Ipourmymilkfirst · 1 pointr/woodworking

I read that too, I will say that the stickers are VERY sticky. I hit mine with a heat gun (this one specifically, although I'm sure others do the trick) for about 15 seconds and then slowly pulled from the corner while keeping the heat on the edge. Worked like a charm without any residue or tearing.

u/cryptid007 · 1 pointr/amiibo

Oh, any reliable heat gun should work. I use this one
Wagner 0503008 HT1000 1,200-watt Heat Gun

u/bicycleradical · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette
u/IWannaMakeStuff · 1 pointr/arduino

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

&gt; I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

&gt; Other stuff:

&gt; - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
&gt; - small i2c OLED displays
&gt; - small LCD display
&gt; - tacswitches (buttons)
&gt; - SPDT switches
&gt; - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
&gt; - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
&gt; - 7 segment led displays (individual)
&gt; - 8x8 led matrices
&gt; - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
&gt; - extra breadboards
&gt; - jumper wires
&gt; - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
&gt; - cheap breadboard power supplies
&gt; - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
&gt; - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
&gt; - trim pot assortment

&gt; Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

u/TheCreach · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Thanks! In order to bend the tubes you need a heat gun, something like this.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1497451741&amp;amp;sr=8-6&amp;amp;keywords=dewalt+heat+gun
I would just get the cheapest one that you can find. You will also need a silicon insert to place inside the tubing to keep the shape while you make your bends. I used the one that came in this kit
but you can probably find the insert alone for cheaper since I didn't end up using the saw included in that kit.

I ended up using one of these;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1497452239&amp;amp;sr=1-7-catcorr&amp;amp;keywords=tubing+cutter

In order to get cleaner cuts. If you don't get the bend perfect the first time you can always take it back over to the heat gun and make any minor adjustments that are needed. The fans that I purchased came in a three pack that included a fan controller that supports up to six fans. I mounted the controller on the inside of the case because I didn't like how it looked anywhere else, but you can stick it on the case anywhere you want.

u/OralOperator · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I don't think you are my wife, so I'll make a couple suggestions.

Do you know what kind of a camera he has? Here are a couple possible answers: Xiaomi Yi, Mobius. If he has one of these, he may be happy to upgrade to a GoPro.

What kind of quadcopter does he have? Does he fly fast and low to the ground, or high and slow to take pretty videos? This could help us make recommendations.

Here's a cheap tool that would make a good stocking stuffer: Irwin Industrial Tools 2078300 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper with ProTouch Grips

Have you ever seen him use a lighter or fire to heat up heat shrink? If he doesn't have a heat gun, that would be a good gift. Here is an example of one:
Wagner 0503008 HT1000 1,200-watt Heat Gun

u/hpz937 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I have this one Wagner HT1000 works great for heat shrink on Low setting

u/Duke____Silver · 1 pointr/DIY_eJuice

Or this

No need to spend $45+

u/alwaysopenslinks · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I don't need this completely, but it would help out a lot when I sleeve cables. Not burning my fingers on the lighter and heat shrink would be nice.

u/1unacy · 1 pointr/ender3

I'd recommend glass, some binder clips to hold it to the bed, Elmer's purple glue sticks for adhesion, a heat gun if you live somewhere like the South and it takes forfuckingever for things like glue stick to dry (I don't have this exact one but I'm sure it'll work just fine), and a spray bottle of water and squeegee to clean all of that off every few of prints.

Also as everyone else suggested, a Pi 3 for Octopi. I'm using a 32 GB microSD that I had laying around. Just send prints from Cura to Octopi! A camera is pretty cool for time lapse shots too! I'm pretty sure this is the one I've been using, but I really don't like the one mount I've found for it so I'm going to switch to my Logitech C615 after my daughter goes to bed and I can fuck around with my setup... ;P

u/striderchris · 1 pointr/grilling

With the right tools, charcoal can be just as fast as propane, but it requires you to cheat.

After seeing how awesome the BBQ Dragon is, I realized i could accomplish the same thing with a Wagner Heat Gun for much cheaper.

I put my chimney on a metal plant stand. I rigged the heat gun with metal clamps so it blows through the charcoals from underneath. It's often ready in 5-10 minutes.

For me, the real issue with charcoal is cooling. It takes a couple hours for the fire &amp; heat to die down. Flavor is worth it though.

u/somermike · 1 pointr/Flipping

I have this sealer and [this roll of tube] ( and [this heat gun] ( that I picked up to do a run of 100 board games.

All three are great, but I don't use them any more. I'm not willing to ship them (just too heavy), but if you're local to Boston by chance, we should talk.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/Flipping

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: this heat gun

|Country|Link|Charity Links|

To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/jhaun · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You have to have good temperature regulation and a bit of patience to make wick work. I use a desoldering iron which works well but struggles a bit with cheap lead free solder and makes your hand sore pumping the bulb thing over and over.

u/Jixr_ · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/redheadedbandrew · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

It works pretty well, but it tears through tips. I would say that one or two keyboards is about the life of a tip. It also starts to cool off if you do too many switches at once. However if you desolder and remove like 3 switches at a time it works great.

u/RGBKB · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You would need a desoldering iron.

The process is tough and time-consuming, but it's pretty much your only option.

u/flaquito_ · 1 pointr/DIY

I've had really good success with a desoldering iron. It has generally worked a lot better for me than solder wick, although I've never used flux, as I see other people here recommend. I do often add some rosin core solder with lead to the joints, though, in order to lower the melting point.

u/Warbringer24 · 1 pointr/DIY

I'm a huge advocate for desoldering irons honestly. It's super easy to use once you get used to it. Squeeze, apply desoldering iron to the solder point, melt, release, pull away and clear it.

It doesn't get leads 100% clean but those few it doesn't, it's just a small amount stuck in an awkward position.

EDIT: It's morning, I'm not awake and spelling is the enemy.

u/workingtimeaccount · 1 pointr/synthesizers

I recently bought a cheapo desoldering iron that I haven't had a chance to burst out, this one here and while I haven't used it yet logically it seems to be the easiest way to desolder as long as it works. You almost even could get a free hand if you were clever with it.

As an avid hater of desoldering braid, $25 for that tool was worth it to save my frustration.

u/fiscal_rascal · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Have you considered a dedicated desoldering pump like this? Should be easier than the cheapo vacuum ones or solder wick.

u/Hotrian · 1 pointr/HTCVive

Here is how NASA would splice that wire :). All you need is a decent soldering iron and a little bit of solder. Do it outside, especially if you are using lead based solder. A little heat shrink tubing and you can have that cord back in working order, even if it's a tiny bit shorter :).

There should be two wires inside that cord though: one for positive, and one for negative- make sure not to let these wires touch each other!

u/doomddo · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon


thank you :D

u/SubEclipse · 1 pointr/hoggit

Hard to say... I personally enjoy doing little electronics projects from time to time, so in my case, I already had a soldering station on hand, and I use it probably once a month or so for various things. Chances are if you haven't needed a soldering iron in your life up to this point, that you will rarely have a use for one later on.

While it's certainly easy to spend a decent amount of money on a nice soldering station, a cheap iron like this one on Amazon would be fine for jobs like this. A small spool of solder will run you about $4 dollars. You could find similar prices to these at Radio Shack as well.

u/HombreTheDude · 1 pointr/consolerepair

I was hoping it didn't have to come to this.
Do you think this tool would be enough for one time usage?;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1475078341&amp;amp;sr=1-7&amp;amp;keywords=soldering
I'm not sure what else I can use a solder for.


u/EGHeart · 1 pointr/Xb1Mods

You really don't need anything special. Just make sure it has a good pointed tip. This or something similar should be good if your just changing LEDs every now and then.

Also don't for get flux!

J&amp;L 60 Watts Soldering Iron, UL listed by J&amp;L

MG Chemicals 835 Liquid Rosin Flux, Non Corrosive and Non Conductive residue MG Chemicals

u/Maverick3090 · 1 pointr/EngineeringStudents
u/Verdint · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

This solution requires a soldering iron, which i currently do not own. Cheapest on amazon i can find is this. I have no skills in soldering but a reviewer of the product you linked said it was fairly simple to do. I'll keep this option open.

u/MCubb · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

In the last few weeks, I've been researching the crap out of the craft of stained glass. It just looks so much fun and the final product is actually nice looking even if you mess it up! So I've made a list of all the supplies I'll need to get started on it. And the two most important tools for the job are a solder iron and a glass cutter! So these are definitely needed to start making stained glass art!

Chuck Finley

u/csbsekbin · 1 pointr/headphones

I watched the innerfedility's video about the crack, you have any idea what are the essential tools that I need to build one? I found this on amazon just for $9 [;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1426815579&amp;amp;sr=1-1], is this good enough to solder the kit?

u/rusty_t · 1 pointr/Quadcopter

Any old iron will work. I used this $9 iron to fix my Hubsan many times.

I have a Hako now and it is MUCH nicer and easier to use but a pencil iron will get the job done for small projects like the Hubsan. If you plan on doing scratch builds or other projects that require soldering I highly suggest getting a variable temperature iron with integrated thermostat.

u/dumptruck88 · 1 pointr/airsoft
u/rompenstein · 1 pointr/DIY

You won't find a battery powered iron worth using. The reason you always feel the cord is in the way is just because you have a crappy iron. Good irons have cords that are very flexible and easy to deal with.

I have the Weller WESD51 and I like it a lot. I use it mostly for SMD down to around 0402 passives or 0.5mm pitch leaded or leadless packages. It has enough power to do bigger projects as well, but of course you wouldn't want to use it to solder copper pipe or something.

There are many other good irons out there, it just depends on what your price range is and what features you want.

I honestly think you would regret buying a cordless iron.

u/waspinator · 1 pointr/ECE
u/Shadow703793 · 1 pointr/DIY

That will work perfectly fine. I got this as a grad gift a little while back.

u/QueueX · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I like my Weller WESD51. With that said, if I were buying something now I'd look at the Haako 888D -- though I've never used it. It has excellent reviews, is $30 cheaper than the Weller, has more power, and is otherwise spec'ed similarly.

Resale value wouldn't even be on my list of criteria for purchasing a soldering iron. I'd be looking at

  • Safe design
  • Minimum power of 50W
  • Tip availability (Weller ETA for surface mount and fine pitch components and ETR for everything else of modest size)
u/alwaysrevelvant · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Maybe I got lucky? Not really sure, but my experience went quite smoothly with it. Took several hours, and I forgot to solder the end key at first, but other than that no problems. You certainly want to use a heat controlled soldering iron though.

If you're interested I used a soldering station like this one(didn't actually buy it, borrowed from work), some Kester 44 solder, and a cheap desoldering gun that I got with the purchase of some speakers from parts express.

u/smokeybehr · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

LOL @ $42 being pricy...

I have a Weller soldering station that is a little more expensive than that. Of course, I use it on a regular basis, for sometimes hours at a time, so it's worth spending the money for good tools.

u/skullydazed · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Alright, so you basically have 3 options depending on how much soldering you plan to do. If you're just gonna build one or two keyboards and and will never try to do SMD, I recommend this:

u/sumwulf · 1 pointr/electronics
u/DonOblivious · 1 pointr/Skookum


This is nothing more than a 40 watt iron with a triac. There is no temp control or even a way to gauge how hot the iron is. I own one and would not recommend it.

u/Akowyn · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I saw the Hakko, don't wanna spend that much right now.
A weller is in my budget. Is that an okay one? Does it come with everything I'd need or do I need to get more things?

u/emertonom · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have this one. It's not great, but it's been good enough for my purposes for a few years. It's about $40.

There are ones on Amazon that are a little cheaper. This one sounds pretty comparable and is in your price range.

For really basic soldering, you actually can get away without a temperature control, but it's hard to recommend that for anything involving a printed circuit board.

For my part, I'm thinking of upgrading to a hot air reflow station, to make it easier to work with solder paste and surface-mount components, as well as heat-shrink tubing. But the basic adjustable Weller was good enough for several years of tinkering.

u/SnoopyM · 1 pointr/diypedals
u/apt-get_-y_tittypics · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Thank you for this.

Dude, what kind of soldering iron are you using? I have this one. I'm totally unable to solder 12 awg wire (from xt60s to pdb) because it won't melt the solder. It just won't! I can crank it up to 5 and hold it for minutes... nothing doing. So when I see you just barely touch that iron to the solder and it melts so quickly, I'm blown away. I can't imagine being able to solder that 12 awg so quickly.

What am I doing wrong?

u/Kelsomatic · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks a lot for the comment. So when you say Weller soldering station, you mean something like this and not this which was suggested earlier. I can't seem to tell if the latter is adjustable (packaging seems misleading) but I'm assuming not. If the first link has your thumbs up I'll probably go with it because the price is totally doable, it's adjustable between 5W and 40W, and it looks pretty cool IMO.

Love your work btw!

u/Goodwill_Gamer · 1 pointr/Gamecube

$14 link for a solid basic soldering iron.
Here's one that costs a little more, but has more adjustability $39 link.
Anything from Weller is going to be pretty good.
Here's a pretty good basic soldering video.
It's not hard, but takes a little practice to get the feel for it. I would recommend finding a broken electronic that you can pull a circuit board out of and just practice soldering by removing parts from the board and putting them back.
Have fun!

u/kieoui · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Depending on how much you are willing to spend, these are two good options, one cheaper and the other more expensive:

u/preludetospeed · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I am using a cheap 30watt iron right now. I was thinking about getting something like this.

u/combataran · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

This, this and this should get you started.

u/istarian · 1 pointr/Gameboy

Well to replace the battery you'll need to open the cart, carefully desolder the old battery, and solder in the new one. It's fairly straightforward and easy, but you can go look up a youtube video for a walkthrough. In theory you can tape in a new untabbed one in, but going with the original design/intention is preferable and won't come loose and lose your save if done properly. However, you'll need the following:

u/Hyperknux333 · 1 pointr/3dshacks

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station
This is the one i bought

u/permanenttemp · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

Can't go wrong with this, $19.07 shipped with Prime.;amp;qid=1398198851&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=weller+40

If you need something safe for smaller projects as well, this would be fine. $41.19 with Prime;amp;qid=1398198808&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=weller+40

I guess I'm a fan of weller products. I've had them at home and a shop. I got one of their higher end soldering stations when I was about 11 to build my own battery packs for my R/C cars and it saw a lot of use. Back then we hardwired the leads from the ESC to the motors and batteries between heats for the lowest resistance. (not to mention deans plugs weren't a thing yet, tamiya connectors would melt together with a hot motor/battery combo) I still have it over 20 years later.

I would say 40 watts is about the standard with typical R/C projects. Also, the lower end brands 40 watt irons don't ever seem to create the heat as something of decent quality.

Also, if you don't have something like this yet, pick one up. $7 shipped all over Amazon. Also available at Harbor Freight for about the same price if you have those in your area.;amp;refRID=0TB7X5RYFKZ3SR4EXY1P

u/ComradeOj · 1 pointr/consolerepair

I don't know about making repro crats, but I do know about mods and repairs. I have done an overclock mod and 2 s-video mods on my genesis consoles, as well as lots of repairs on other consoles.

I have the basic tools like screw drivers, needle-nose pliers, and some tiny cutters just like these.

My soldering iron is a cheap 35 watt fixed temperature hunk of crap. Get a better one. I don't have any recommendations, but this one is linked to from this subreddit's sidebar. It has good reviews, but I haven't tried it myself.

I also have a spool of thin rosin core solder that is about 1mm thick. I also have a spool of de-solder wick which comes in handy.

To hold down and/or secure wires I use some rubbery electrical tape or hot glue. I use the electrical tape whenever I can, since it is easier to remove than the hot glue. The hot glue is useful in small amounts to keep wires from getting accidentally pulled out of place.

A multimeter is very useful. You probably won't need a really fancy one, just a basic $10 one.

I bought one of those parallel cables that all the old printer's used for only $1.99 at a thrift store. It's packed with different colored wires, that are just the right thickness to use for most console repairs/mods.

u/nitronarcosis · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've got a Weller WLC100, relatively inexpensive but the difference in quality from a $7 RadioShack is tremendous. Makes everything so much easier with better results. Weller WLC100

u/Sphearion · 1 pointr/OpenPV

I have had this one for almost 2 years now. Does the job and does it well.

u/limitz · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I suggest this:;amp;qid=1406761425&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=learn+to+solder+kit

It's a very good kit, and will give you plenty of practice before you solder your Poker 2. No frills, and will give you plenty of practice for through hole soldering.

Combine this with a practical, but good quality soldering station:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1406762091&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=soldering+iron

A desoldering pump:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1406762167&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=desoldering+pump

And some solder:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1406762345&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=solder

To learn, there are plenty of Youtube videos, I recommend you also solder the Elenco kit, then desolder everything to get a feel for how the desoldering pump works (it's super easy, you can't really screw it up). Then, solder it together one more time for extra practice.

All together, about $66 bucks. Add in the cost of the switches, and you're looking at a little over 100. Still a bunch cheaper than the Poker 2 from Massdrop ($143.50), and you've just learned a life skill. For me, that's totally worth it, but then again, I'm an engineer, and learning useful skills is what my entire profession is based on.


EDIT: Get this soldering kit instead:;amp;refRID=00RQRQTCJ767WDS4D7KV

Cheaper and has more soldering points. The other one has a shitty speaker which doesn't add much to the soldering lesson, but drives the cost up.

u/buefordwilson · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

Like several others have mentioned, /r/diypedals is a good place to go. As long as we've got you here, though... I had already practiced soldering before and wanted to start with a kit. That way you have everything you need and just have to assemble. A very easy and inexpensive first build was [this] ( boost pedal. Don't let the simplicity fool you. I still have this boost pedal on my board to this day and love it. Also, I picked up [this] (;amp;qid=1483458417&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=weller+soldering+station) Weller soldering station. Crazy cheap, but I've been using it for over 6 years with no issues. Finally, just read, read, read and read some more! There's tons of great info in various forums, books and youtube videos to get you on your way. Best of luck and have fun with it!

u/musicman116 · 1 pointr/diypedals

Yet another vote for Weller soldering irons. The WLC100 is the model I use and it does the job well.

u/NotSoNinjaHD · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Soldering Station

Solder Sucker

Just these two tools (and solder of course but I already had that laying around), a Phillips head screwdriver (to unscrew the PCB from the case), and a small flat head screwdriver (to pop the old switches out of the plate). I highly doubt you’ll break something though. Soldering/desoldering isn’t that difficult and as long as you’re careful about it you won’t mess anything up.

I also have a custom planned for my first GMK set coming at the beginning of next year! Gonna throw some 67g Zealios or Zilents in it (haven’t decided yet).

u/Orange_And_Purple · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this. It works well, but the tip on it is a bit large for the more intricate work. I would recommend something like this, which may work better, and it even comes with some stuff to practice on.

u/jairuncaloth · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this one. It has served me well for several years. I did however get a better tip cleaner.

u/MDAI88 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I think i'm going to go with this one here. Its more then the one I originally thought of getting but sounds like this one is MUCH better then the Chinese crap. But I might go with this one here its a lot more but its worth it from what it sounds like.

u/pj931 · 1 pointr/Gameboy

Well, I really want to say that it's not worth it if you don't have a soldering iron, but having an iron opens you up to modding. I personally would buy this iron to start Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

It's a decent iron and then you can buy a DMG and put in a bivert mod! Also, don't forget to tin your tip or else it slowly corrodes when the iron is hot. These are the starter irons in the electronics shop at my school, a technical high shool. And if you get bored you can always poke holes in the power supply with the hot iron!/s If you have a lot of money then buy the iron I have, a Weller WES51. Soldering irons can also fix jewelry and other metal, so it's not a one time use purchase. And if you get burnt you don't even feel it, I don't think I have nerves in my right index finger anymore!

Replacing the batteries is very easy. They go for $7 for 10 on eBay just search Gameboy save battery. Only Pokemon RSE need them for GBA games because of their clocks. They use CR1616 batteries. No other GBA games need batteries AFAIK. Most original or color game needs them for saves, however. They use CR2032 batteries. It's easy, just make sure that the positive and negative are correct. Positive side is shiny with writing on the battery and the negative is textured. Earlier GB games such as Kirby's dreamland, Tetris, Pinball, etc require no save battery, as they didn't save!

u/noodlebot5ooo · 1 pointr/diypedals

That Weller wlc100 is what you're referencing, yeah?

u/sixtwomidget · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

I’d recommend getting a pedal kit from BYOC . The other thing you can do is just just buy a bunch of hook up wire and some jacks and just practice. Another good soldering iron to start with in addition to the one above is the Weller WLC100. Good luck!

u/YiloMiannopoulos · 1 pointr/QuadCities

The face plate might be as difficult to solder to too. I'll take a picture of it later

u/MojoMonster · 1 pointr/telecaster

Soldering is a good skill to have, in general.

And if you're careful, there's not much you can screw up.

Watch a YT tutorial or two and you'll be good to go.

For tools you'll eventually want what is in this kit, but probably not that kit itself.

I bought a Weller WLC100 40 watt kit (definitely get a norrower ST2 or ST3 tip as well), a solder sucker tool (you can use desoldering wick, but the solder sucker is worth the money), a Helping Hands and 60/40 rosin-core solder.

In addition, I like using tip tinner, a wire tip cleaner like this because I found that using a wet sponge reduced the tip temperature too much.

Also, solder fumes are not great so only do this is in a well-ventilated area. I like to use a small fan to blow the fumes away from my face.

The only thing you'll need to do is desolder/clip the existing swtich and wire up the replacement. You don't have to mess with the pots or caps unless you want to.

Phostenix Tele diagram page.

edit: fixed solder type

u/doeraymefa · 1 pointr/soldering
u/RolandMT32 · 1 pointr/Guitar

It's fairly easy. I bought a Weller soldering iron that I think works well. Take a note of where the positive and negative wires from the pickup are comnected, then heat the solder so you can disconnect the wires, and solder the new pickup's wires there.
This page has some tips for guitar wiring &amp; soldering:

u/grant1704 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

How good?

Here is one that will last you pretty much for whatever no matter what you do with it, its the soldering iron I have used for the past several years and has been great on a number of projects:

Here is one that will do just fine but isn't great or anything:

The most important feature for a good soldering station is variable temperature.

The only other things you will need is solder:, a solder wick:, and possibly wire cutters if you don't have them:

Some personal advice is get the best one you can afford if you thing you will use it a lot, the difference between a okay one and a great one is huge. I hated soldering till I got a good iron.

u/xJeffmanx · 1 pointr/Guitar

I'd say around 30W. I have a variable like this that works for most work I do.

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

u/Brewi · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I am looking to buy a new soldering iron/station off of Amazon. I don't really do any electrical work that would warrant needing an iron around the house, but the one my dad has is a POS and it's time for fresh equipment.

I am planning on building at least 2 more keyboards this year (though I'm not sure I'll build any more after that, but I wouldn't put it out of the question).

Is this station off of Amazon okay? I was recommended this Weller station but I don't like that it doesn't have an exact temp display (people complain about the 1-2-3-4 settings). However, it's a good amount cheaper.

What do?

u/desktop_version_bot · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/K_s_K · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Then you should get a good soldering station. Hakko is a really good brand. Heres one of their soldering stations:
If thats more than what your willing to spend i've heard good things about the low end weller stations. doesn't have the highest wattage but it should be good enough for your purpose. Link:;amp;qid=1305842734&amp;amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0

u/roomba_floorvac · 1 pointr/dreamcast

I recommend this Weller from Amazon. It is a little pricier than others, but top-notch quality, especially if you plan on soldering in the future.

u/indrora · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've been soldering for 20 years and I still can't quite get it down all the time.

Take an evening, beer up and go watch the PACE International soldering tutorial. Get a good soldering iron from a local electronics shop or Amazon; I like the little $30 Weller "student" irons because they're adjustable and have good tip variety for cheap. SMT soldering needs two basic kinds of tip: point and a flat. With some practice, you can easily drag-solder gull-wing packages like the Atmel here.

You also don't seem to have

  • ruined the board
  • actually caused damage to the gull-wing

    A small amount of solder wick or just GENTLY dragging your iron across the pins will get the bridged pins cleaned up, just make sure to add some flux when you solder again, if your solder doesn't have flux baked in. Then, the big glob of solder should just pop off the board -- it isn't wetted to anything Wick off the board.

    I will agree with whoever said you're using too much solder: you're dripping. That's too much. The PACE videos will get you oriented in the right direction as to when to stop.

    Solder wick is cheap to the point Amazon demands you buy it with something else. Get some. It's like a towel for solder. Heat, soak, and repeat.
u/Cartheion · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Weller is the tried and true irons a lot of people use. We had a decent one in an old shop I was a part of and it kept going for years, real nice solder joints.

This one from Amazon would get you started. its good to pay a little more for this one than one of the shits from Radioshack.

u/jackal858 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

If you are willing to drop a little bit of coin, but don't want to go too crazy this guy is pretty popular:;amp;colid=33Z9SEU0RU74U&amp;amp;coliid=I177ELVX243CET

For starting out, and into the foreseeable future, one like this would probably server you just fine:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1421030141&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=weller+soldering+iron

u/SarcasticOptimist · 1 pointr/Guitar
  • Good soldering station (like this) with lead-free solder.

  • Buy enough stuff from Guitarelectronics so shipping won't stiff you. Look into no load for the tone pot (if you usually keep the tone at 10 anyway), and this looks cool if slightly pricey, if you turn down the volume on your guitar occassionally. You may want to do a 5 way switch instead of the 3 way to avoid push-pull pots and other junk.

  • Wiring diagrams from the pickup manufacturer are best, since wire colors aren't standardized. Duncan's diagrams are detailed. I'd probably check Youtube videos, ideally ones that test multiple pickups, to see which ones you like the most.

  • Get a shielding kit while you can. Guitarnuts is a good resource on how to ground and avoid getting electrocuted.
u/commiecomrade · 1 pointr/diypedals

Build Your Own Clone

I doubt you'd keep track of any more websites I could mention above once you find a few kits there. As far as equipment goes, get:

A decent soldering iron ... Alternative (please also get this with the alternative)


Micro Cutters to trim leads

Hopefully you have a small flat-head screwdriver to set knobs and a small flat pair of pliers to attach hardware to the enclosures.

I doubt you'd need to but if you ever need to get any components that aren't supplied with a kit, go to Tayda Electronics for nearly any part (they tend to be cheapest for hobbyists, you can find anything from passive components like resistors and capacitors, to knobs/switches/audio and power jacks, etc.).

u/exploringaudio1999 · 1 pointr/diypedals

here's what i currently use -

get a good iron, don't get something really cheap. everything is easier with something that works well.

u/scubascratch · 1 pointr/electronics

Don't buy it from radio shack those are all garbage which he will be unhappy with.
What is your budget?can you swing $100? This one is very good for that price.