What a beautiful shot! Sometimes sacrifices must be made haha.

If you dont mind me making a small suggestion, I would try using an abrasion resistant polycarbonate infront of your lens because its the least likely to scratch or pit from debris. You can get just basic polycarb for like $5 so you could also just buy 10 and use them as disposable parts. It would save you a lot of money in the long run, and polycarb is the least likely to warp your image and if you get the thin stuff (under 0.5") it will have minimal effect on your light.

As for dew, you really just need to make sure youre above the dew point. If you have a power source, I would just buy a heat gun and point it at the edge of the poly carbonate, about a foot away. This way air is traveling along the surface of the polycarb and the lens. This would whisk away anything on them, heat them above the dew point preventing any of it, and wouldnt blow any dust in the way.

Anyway, great to read these detailed accounts from first hand photographers. Than you so much for sharing!

Its a solder sucker, used to de-solder components. You press the plunger down, then heat the solder then press the button on the sucker with the nozzle next to the solder and gone. Here is a link

Well you could save yourself $2900 and just house one of these in a nerf gun rifle with a custom paint job...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00282LP34/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3341940462&pd_rd_wg=OpZHd&pf_rd_r=WWRMWNH8J98VB371Y7NR&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00282LP34&pd_rd_w=oO6q7&pf_rd_i=Propane+torch&pd_rd_r=bf89caa9-5455-445f-9334-3f3e141728f1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518034992&sr=2

Propane Torch.

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537380675&sr=8-1&keywords=driveway+cleaning+propane

I've started to get into electronics myself, and I can say that soldering is easy, but you need the right tools for the job.
You'll need an adjustable temperature soldering iron and 1/2 milimeter iron/lead solder as the bare minimum.

I suggest grabbing some tip tinner, solder wick & vacuum, and some cheap boards to practice soldering.

This video shows how to do the actual soldering, while this video covers the tools you'll need and explains their use. These videos are made by EEV Blog and explain soldering in GREAT detail, which is how I learned to do it.



As far as making actual circuits, you have to have an idea AND parts to fulfill your idea. The Arduino UNO is a great way to program and test circuits. It's essentially a small comptuer designed to repeat whatver task you give it over and over. Alternatively, there's the Raspberry Pi, which comes in a few different models. The difference between the Pi and the Arduino is that the Pi is essentially a mini computer. You can literally hook it up to a monitor via hdmi and slam an operating system into it.

Both boards typically come in kits like this one for the Ardunio, or this one for the Raspberry Pi. The Ardunio kits with come with a lot of peripherals, like sensors and LEDs that actually do things, while you'll have to invest more with a Raspberry Pi. These kits come with detailed instructions, code you can copy and paste, and are a great way to learn how circuitry works, and is exactly what I'm doing right now. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination, I've just done a decent amount of research to find out what's what.

There are two ways to hook up circuits - temporarily and (somewhat) permanently. Breadboards are used to prototype circuits without having to solder anything, typically using these wires to link different parts of the circuits together. Soldering components to those green boards I linked earlier is what you'd do when you have your circuit up and running and want to move it to something more permanent. I say "more" permanent because you can usually de-solder stuff if you needed a component for something.

Adafruit has a decently sized library of projects you can try. They often sell stuff in kits where you get everything you need to make something -- for example, this DIY MIDI controller.

Sparkfun has a great series of articles that explain the very basics of circuits and electricity

Hopefully I've explained everything enough so that you can venture off on your own. Feel free to ask questions!

Holy mother of god..

I'm assuming it's any or a combination of:

1. Bad solder quality or low lead content (i.e.: lead-free solder)
   
2. Cheap soldering iron with no temperature control
   
3. Cheap soldering wick/desoldering braid
   
   Those definitely look ruined. :/
   
   Having the right tools is super important for soldering/desoldering, especially if you lack the experience/know-how. If you used a desoldering braid/solder wick, one with better quality will make a massive difference when you're trying to desolder. I remember struggling with a cheap wick/solder sucker combo I got a while back. Switched to a Chemtronics Desoldering Braid and was shocked at how much easier desoldering could be.

Oh man, something I can finally contribute to on this sub, I do electronics repair and a ton of microsoldering. Sorry to hijack but I'm here way too late and a main level comment will never be seen

Solder naturally wants to stick to copper (the circular "pads" are copper or some copper alloy, and the legs should have some amount of copper in it as well) when it's liquid, so getting a 'volcano' is a lot easier than you'd think. The trick is to keep the pad, pin, and solder you're feeding in hot, as soon as it starts to solidify it becomes significantly more work to re-heat and rework. If it's not perfect, I wouldn't worry about it. As long as it's making solid contact and wouldn't come loose from you tapping the key, you're good to go. Excess solder is perfectly fine as long as it's not bridging.

Another thing on solder, GET LEAD SOLDER, lead free solder is a giant pain in the ass. It doesn't melt easily, clumps and balls up, and will not heat up evenly. Also have proper ventilation, solder/flux fumes are not good.

Another possible reason for having problems is your soldering iron tip being dirty/oxidized. If it's looking black or really dull you need to clean it in a wire sponge like this. Stick the tip in and furiously move it around. If it's still dull after that/you've used the same tip for a long time, you need to tin it with a tinner, like this (lead free is totally fine for this, just dip it in while it's hot for 1-3s and clean it in the wire sponge immediately after. Smoke is normal (don't breathe it in) and it'll come out real freaking shiny.

Flux is basically a liquid-gel-ish substance that covers whatever you're working on so it doesn't oxidize and make a bad connection, although for larger scale soldering like keyboards with a ton of contact area it's not nearly as much a concern. Flux also helps a lot with more even heat distribution, as in if you need to rework/remove solder just apply a ton of flux and it'll help heat up the solder more evenly/liquefy it more quickly.

Flux is non-conductive so you don't have to worry about it bridging anything, and you can leave it on if you want to but it's always good to clean it with 99% alcohol after because it gets dry and nasty pretty quick (about the same texture and consistency as dried jizz, pretty undesirable).

Wick is a copper weave that soaks up solder when you're trying to remove it. If you, for example, bridge a connection, you would apply flux over the whole area, put the wick directly over the spot, and your iron directly on top of that. You'll be able to see the solder flow 'upwards' through the weave and the copper will turn silver.

The finer the "weave" of the wick the more effective it is, finer also means more flexible so you can tell really easily. Once a section is silvery with solder you should cut it off and unroll some fresh wick. Also copper conducts heat really well so hold it far away from the place where your iron is touching it or use heat proof gloves if you want to (not rubber/latex ones, they'll probably melt into your skin or something).

P.S. If you're having a lot of trouble removing the factory solder, that's probably because it's lead free solder. Add some leaded solder and melt it in, everything will come out easier. If you're REALLY having issues after a ton of flux, use a heat gun, be careful to not melt the plastics on the other side, although the PCB usually isolates heat pretty well

P.P.S. Don't ever heat anything for too long, if it's not coming off check the temp on your iron (you can just see how melty it is, don't need a thermometer or anything), and if it's at a good temp try adding flux or solder or both, or get a better wick. If a pad comes off the board you're fucked unless you wanna spend an hour jumping.

P.P.P.S. If you have the option, go for a blade-style soldering tip. It's really good for rougher applications like this and heats things up super fast.

ama if anyone still cares

> Knowing next to nothing about assembling something like this, could a complete newbie make one?

Providing you can follow instructions it would be like constructing a more advanced Lego set.

If /u/progidek shares his EAGLE design you can print it onto some double sided copper PCB using a DIY etchant kit and an inkjet printer or finding something similar.

Parts should just be a matter of searching part numbers into Jaycar, Amazon, Sparkfun, Element13 or other similar sites.

Assembly can be done by following pictures, just make sure polarity is correct. Usually one side is different to show the polarity; silver ribbon on 1 side, longer leg, deformed side. This will be the most time consuming step, but mistakes can be undone using solder wick.

Soldering is easy to do, but not so easy to keep as clean as /u/progidek did, it's really quite gorgeous. There are a few youtube tutorials on how to's and improving technique.

You may want to start on a pre-packaged kit to build up some skill

You may have heard the old saying:

>The road to success is through experience.
>
>The road to experience is through failure.

It sounds like you have already achieved some failure, so this means you are well on your way on the road to success!

Let me add another old saying that I just made up:

>Good technique may overcome a bad soldering iron.
>
>A great soldering iron will never overcome bad technique.

You didn't mention what kind of iron and what kind of solder you are using now. But if you are getting cold joints, that is more likely a sign of bad technique rather than the wrong iron.

Cold joints happen when you heat the solder instead of heating the work material. The hot solder hits the cold metal and freezes in place instead of flowing onto the hot metal.

You need to heat the work material itself first. If it's a through-hole component, then after you turn the board upside down, touch the iron to both the component's wire lead and the board's pad. Only after both of those heat up do you apply the rosin core solder to melt onto and into them. Then you will have a beautiful shiny solder joint.

This does take some finesse and attention to timing. So I would do this Heathkit style. The Heathkits I bought when I was a teenager always came with clear instructions on how to solder, and most importantly, some extra pieces to practice with. I learned to get the technique down on those before tackling the kit itself. So practice on scrap material until you have it down.

Of course a good iron and good solder will help. If you're using lead-free solder, I might suggest a traditional lead-tin solder instead, as it is easier to work with.

For an iron, you didn't mention what you're using now, or what your budget might be. If something around $100 works for you, you can't go wrong with the Hakko FX888D. You might want some extra tips of various sizes too.

Desoldering is an art to itself. Do you have some desoldering braid? I used to use the "soldapullit" suction pumps and similar things, but the braid always gave me better results. It comes in different widths so you can pick one that fits the work you're doing.

I hope these notes are helpful. Holler back with any questions, and happy soldering!

A couple of things come to mind:

A) Cool.

B) Instead of drilling through your stencils, I recommend using a finishing nail or an awl and banging pilot divots. This centers and guides the drill bit, and keeps you from killing your stencil, just in case.

3) Try heat shrink tubing. It's not terribly expensive, it's fun to use, and it makes you look clever.

D) In the event that you ever want people to think that you are very clever, get a decent soldering iron. If you have a lot of extra money to throw around, get a fancy Weller station. If not, I recommend the adorable Hakko FX-888. Now that the analog version has been discontinued, it's hard to find on sale, but... they're fantastic. If you want to feel fancy, you could get something like this. Look at all those bits! I don't know either!

Screw that. If you really want to have fun use one of these. Burn it up.

1. Chryco wiring harness
   
2. Single DIN bezel
   
3. Speakers
   
4. Soldering iron kit
   
5. Heat Shrink
   
   Tell Best Buy to go suck a lemon.

Good basic guide. I would add that most people get flux cored solder, so they don't need to work about fluxing before solder.

Second thing is, if you're going to do more than one keyboard's worth of soldering, I'd suggest ditching the sponge and getting a brass / copper wire tip cleaner.. It's not super great for the tip to be put on a wet sponge.

Aven 17010 Adjustable Circuit Board Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q2TTQEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mFZ-BbDJWGWJ4

Preface: for some ungodly reason Mass Drop expects people to create an account before showing what the page has.

What is on the page is the description of the keyboard along with everything in the kit.

Here is an image of the web page to fix this so that you can see what keyboard I am talking about: https://minus.com/lE02abi6ORu87.png

It is stupid I know, but that is how they are for some reason.

You don't have to use Facebook to log into it though thankfully.

Alright, so this kit is finally back as an option on Mass Drop after over a month or two of absence, and it is on it's third or fourth Mass Drop group buy, all of which have been successful with no complaints from buyers amazingly.

Ordering it as a group buy is the only way to get this keyboard and it isn't offered anywhere else on the planet.

Everyone who has tried the keyboard is in love with their ErgoDox and how comfortable using the brilliant design is.

The ErgoDox keyboard is an open source hardware, open source software design, which as people who use GPLv3 software I hope you can appreciate how huge that is in light of how unapproachable hardware design has been in the past, plus with the group buy concept instead of the total cost being over 1500 USD (I priced all of this thinking to make my own being very unhappy with the lack of any intelligence present among keyboard manufacturers) it is less than 300 dollars, even after purchasing keycaps, which is huge.

What is brilliant about this keyboard, and I mean absolute genius in a domain defined by the lack there of is that it uses open source hardware with the specifications fully available, open source software for the firmware, the micro controller is very easily modified and installed thanks to their work on the configuration software, it uses all high quality parts including the very popular Cherry MX key switches (the mechanical part of a mechanical keyboard) for excellent tactile feedback and soothing ambient noise through the clickity clackety of the key switches, provides everything you need in the kit, has excellent instructions for assembling them, and allows you to decide on your own term caps, for which there is another group buy for to bring the cost of those way down.

You will absolutely love having thumb keys, which I use for all of my modifier keys and it saves my hands from career ending emacs pinky thankfully. Thumb accessible keys is an absolute boon for the information worker that has long days and nights.

I have liked them ever since experiencing them on a Kinesis Contour Advantage keyboard, and I cannot recommend that design enough.

But wait, there's more: in addition to all of that the keyboard also brilliantly went with not only a mirrored, symmetric layout for the keys and frame, and it also had the insight and genius to go with a split-keyboard layout so that the keyboard can not only accommodate a variety of human sizes, but doing so also ensures that the user can conform to proper ergonomic keyboard uses that entails having the arms and hands orthogonal to the key layout.

And even then, this design has another stroke of genius: removal of the typical function keys and escape key.

I know, you are thinking this is insane I need those.

And yes dear reader, I thought so too, but here is why this is actually a good thing, by not having that row there not only does it save space, it also ensures that you do not have the courage to try and chord the function keys without leaving the home row and anger the tendon gods in the process.

Thanks to the multiple layouts available (more not that below) you don't actually lose access to these, they just move to wherever you have decided to locate them.

This design is the most comfortable and ergonomic keyboard design I have ever seen and it puts the rest f the industry to shame for their hubris that has ruined many a career and been generally bereft of excellence as it makes no sense to design a keyboard this way now that we are not using bloody type writers from middle ages.

I am going to order at least two myself, one to use then a backup in case I can't get it in the future, which is what has happened to another keyboard design I liked and made it impossible to get or very expensive. Also, so I can take one to work and leave another at home.

Anyways, for those of you who do not have electronics experience and are worried about soldering things together or flashing the firmware on the micro-controller, do not be alarmed.

It is quite easy if you have moderately steady hands, plus you will learn a cool skill and hopefully take up the joy of hobby electronics.

You will be able to make your own ham radios and mess around with the great arduino micro-controllers and do all kinds of awesome tricks with sensors in your residence or wherever.

I recommend getting a fine point soldering iron and desoldering pump sucker for picking up solder off the pcb if you need to redo a trace. A soldering iron like this will work fine for this project.

A beautiful person took the time to make a how to assembly video showing the entire process too, which is superb: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1irVrAl3Ts

This image has the assembly instructions that cover the soldering and other hook ups: https://i1.minus.com/ibeVgc381INcEF.jpg

Here is the configuration page you use to set up the layout and the site generates the hex file you need to upload to the firmware for you, which is the tricky part normally: https://www.massdrop.com/ext

Here's an image mirror of that in case the previous link does not work: https://i.minus.com/ivk3kHgNCgsTl.png

Here is an example modified qwerty layout. https://minus.com/l5Tnw5yL3TuMb.png

There are multiple layers because on this keyboard you can have multiple layouts that you jump up and down through via the L+ and L- keys, which is absolutely brilliant design.

L+ moves up in the layout stack, and L- moves down in the layout stack.

Also, you can configure keys to move up or down through two layers at a time for ever faster switching between layouts.

Having a way to progress through multiple layers of layouts is something I had not thought of in my prototype design and would have sorely missed having such a wonderful feature if I had not seen the ErgoDox keyboard before I had a go at having my own custom layout manufactured.

I really cannot hype this design enough, from quality to its concept to its execution, every aspect is flawless and free as in freedom on top of that.

I hope you all consider grabbing this beautiful product.

I realize it is considerably pricy compared to other keyboards, although within a normal price for ergonomic keyboards, but this is absolutely an investment in your own health and career regardless of your age that will pay for itself.

It is a pittance to pay for compared to the agony that will succeed if you happen to come down with crippling repetitive stress injury (RSI) or carpal tunnel syndrome (CTS).

As someone who has had that, and also as someone who did not take the situation seriously, it is completely devastating and takes months to heal even with great precaution and doing everything possible outside of surgery (which at most will have 80% return of functionality in your hands and ensure that you will be maimed for life in the process).

It is much, much better to go with the ounce of prevention instead of the pound (and months to years) of cure along with hundreds of dollars in the process that entails an slew of treatments.

Even one lost paycheck due to injury will cover the cost of this investment in yourself.

If you choose not to go with this product, at least take the time to invest into researching how to avoid injury and what you can do to give yourself the best chance of staying in the game rather than being sidelined by injury and wasting your own time and brilliance.

Xah has reviews of other keyboards (none of the ErgoDox that I know of though) that are ergonomic options as well. You can find those reviews here: Xah's reviews.

I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like):

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18-D08-D12-D24-D32/dp/B00C1N30DI Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJPO Leaded solder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPGFT8 Brushes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K Side cutters

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2 Flux

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2 Solder Wick

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HT2QW KimWipes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B5JT8C Isopropyl Alcohol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CU56KM Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G5T9M0 Jewelers loupe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019SLLOMY Tweezers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8Z4RPG Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)

Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.

Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!

I have this one and it's served me well for the last few years. There's also an analog version. The digital ones only read in Celsius, if that bothers you. They definitely aren't as nice as a Hakko or a Weller, but it has never let me down.

As far as the fumes go, it isn't the lead that's the problem, it's the flux inside the solder. Lead doesn't vaporize until ~1700C, which your iron is never going to reach. I mention this so you know that lead free solder doesn't solve the problem.

You should either solder in a well ventilated area, or use a fume extractor. Commercial fume extractors are expensive, and you can make your own with fan and a carbon filter (you can get them for normal air filters and cut to size).

I did a BYOC kit over a year ago.

It can be difficult if you don't have the right tools. I got a board holder that made my life so much easier.

I also suggest getting a very fine/narrow solder tip. The one I used was a little big for the job.

The most difficult part was soldering the switch. Pisses me off just looking at it.

In the end the pedal had a huge volume drop, so I fucked something up along the way.

Soldering iron: Hakko FX888D Digital Station with a 5 ft. Spool Soder-Wick Desoldering Braid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015YGBUO4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Solder: Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031" 1oz Dispense-Pak https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AVLM4SO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Get yourself a Weller WE-51 http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU

and some Kester 63/37 solder http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Dispense-Pak/dp/B00AVLM4SO/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1454222158&sr=1-3&keywords=kester+63+37

That's all you need

I bought this a while ago, which has been fantastic for filling boards and soldering components. It gets tough if you have components really close to the edges, but that's why I also use a regular old helping hand tool.

This. You can find decent starting irons on Amazon with solder. You might consider buying a few ”learn to solder" soldering kits from Amazon. They come with all the parts needed, and the instructions teach you how to assemble the components (you then have to solder them in the board it came with)

Iron set example: (good for basic /beginner projects) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1IFT54/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523313329&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=soldering+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51rAt23O28L&ref=plSrch

Electronics kit beginner example (these are fun to do imo)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002LUAL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523313465&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=elenco+soldering+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=519bj4ev-jL&ref=plSrch

Although not the cheapest, ebay is probably the easiest way to find faulty systems.

Some equipment recommendations:

• A TS100 soldering iron. I use a more expensive Hakko FX888-D, but I've heard great things about this one for the price. Try to get a chisel tip for general purpose use, it has a balanced combination of size and heat transfer.
  
• iFixit 64-bit toolkit, for handling all the various screws you'll encounter.
  
• Soldapullt desoldering pump. Don't bother with the Chinese knock-offs, they seem to break easily.
  
• Fine 63/37 solder. One roll will last you a long time. Don't bother with cheap Chinese solder, it will not have the advertised metal composition and give poor results.
  
• I like this flux, but it's kind of pricey.
  
• Desoldering braid is essential.
  
• Neoteck multimeter. Very good for the price.
  
• If you need to remove SMD components, a 858D hot air station available under various Chinese brands you've never heard of. Kind of sketchy, but works and has not burned down my home yet.

Probably depends on the quality of the wood burner. In most cases they are basically just soldering irons with different tips. You can get variable temperature soldering irons for $12. http://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-Variable-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM

As stated, 99% chance it's blown caps (capacitors). It's a very common problem with today's cheaply made TVs and computers.



The good news is that they are actually pretty easy to diagnose and replace. There are tons of video tutorials that will walk you through it. It only takes about 20 minutes maybe to do the whole thing for about $35 - $40 bucks. Then if it ever happens again with another TV, it's only about $15 each time after. So, instead of throwing out that TV, you can repair it for $40; so not bad!



First, you want to diagnose if this is the problem. Lay your TV down on a flat surface and take off the back, usually just need a screwdriver. Look at the capacitors (which look like very short AA batteries) and if they are blown, the tops will be leaking, bulging, and/or oozing. There are TONS of Google images to compare against.

• Google images for bad/blown capacitors
  
  
  
  If it is the caps, all you need are 2 things:
  
  
• A replacement capacitor kit, which you can find on-line for your tv make and model. They run about $15 bucks give or take for the whole set. They will sell you a kit that contains all the capacitors needed for your specific make and model. They come in various sizes and powers, so you want to buy the correct ones for your TV.
  
  
• A soldering iron. You can get a small decent one from Amazon for about $20 bucks. A good investment because you will use it again and again on various TVs, etc.
  
  
  
  
  The videos will walk you through how to do it, including use the soldering iron. It's pretty easy. For what it's worth, I am a woman, with no electronic background and have now replaced and fixed 3 TVs that I've had this happen to.
  
  
• This website is a great resource for their information boards, tutorials, help, etc: http://www.badcaps.net/
  
  
• This is the soldering station I ordered from Amazon for $23 Soldering Station
  
  
• This is the company from Amazon that I've ordered all my caps from. It came recommended. They show good videos and pictures. Just search by your make and model. They are not limited to just LCD tvs. LCD Alternatives
  
  
  I hope this helps!

I use the cheapest solder wick I could find on Amazon (like $1.50). The trick is to soak it in flux (which I also got off Amazon).

Edit: The wick I use and the flux.

I do a back yard show too and I find the board method too cumbersome. I now use the duct tape/bag/stake method.

1. Duct tape: You've googled 4 cakes that you could hypothetically stick together because they "jive well". Duct tape them together with the fuses facing outward. Fuse so they all go off at once, or fuse in series. Use different speeds to accomplish your goal. You now have the stability of four cakes all in one. Gluing to a board is too much effort for me.
   
2. Bag: get a garbage bag over the whole thing once fused and you have a waterproof cake pod ready to go.
   
3. Stake: (IMO optional) Wrap Duct tape around the bag and stake to the ground for added stability
   
   Not a fan of roman candles. Dont waste your money.
   
   Make sure you test your fuse and know what speed it burns. My white fuse burns super fast. My green fuse burns faster than my yellow. My yellow burns much faster than the Pink. The pink is slower than the Shiny green fuse. That wasn't always the case. My green fuse was always the slowest and yellow was the fastest.
   
   I also don't like the idea of reloading shells during the show. If you must, you can prep them by zip tying the fuses together in groups of 8 or so. Throw 8 in the tubes and light the bunch. Dont put your head over any part. Stick the rest of prepped shells in a ready box. A ready box is designed so it cannot be left open. You lift up the lid, grab a bunch, the box has a string so that closes itself after opening
   
   Invest in zip ties and metal tape. Use this to tie your fuse together.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-CT422E-Nylon-Length-Purple/dp/B00DY98M1I/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1525752899&sr=1-3&keywords=4%22+zip+ties
   
   I cant begin to tell you how much I love these fuse cutters. This tool changed my fuse cutting life. I spit on scissors now.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Edge-Utility-Cutter-9-37309/dp/B0037IX2BG/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1525752808&sr=1-12&keywords=handi+cut
   
   This fuse igniter will change your life. Lighters might as well be flint. Thats how next gen this is. Get some propane or MAPP
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1525753004&sr=8-3&keywords=berzomatic
   
   This headlamp makes flashlights a thing of the past and changes your life. Make sure you get one that doesnt have a third strap along the top. If youre not using it you can wear your headlamp on your neck and not lose it.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Spot-Headlamp-Octane/dp/B06W9HPY25/ref=sr_1_6_twc-13d22461-ce_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525753147&sr=8-6-acs&keywords=head+lamp&content_id=13d22461-ceea-426c-b620-9fe11db17513&ascsubtag=13d22461-ceea-426c-b620-9fe11db17513&tag=ospsearch-20&widget_name=expert_recommendation&content_provider=osp&ingress=search&content_type=story
   
   Also invest some money in some eye and ear protection. I can't tell you how many times I went to bed with a "reeee sound" in my ears, and have gotten pyro shit in my eyes.
   
   Build yourself some real racks if you're up for it. I just recently built myself some and it was a snap.
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p7J4HV4Gak

If you're taking your first steps into wiring, then you should get comfortable working with wires and tools. Here is a kit that will introduce you to wiring, soldering, etc.

Along with that, there are a few tools that might be useful to you:

• A small stand with clips and magnifying glass
  
• Solder wick for desoldering
  
• Soldering tip cleaner
  
• Extra supply of solder
  
  And there are videos on YouTube that will teach you how to properly solder a wire to a soldering point. For that Elenco kit, the main goal is to get both the siren and the flashing lights to work, which it will if you wired everything correctly and used the correct resistors. It can be easy to make mistakes while learning to solder for the first time but most mistakes can be fixed, and it's very difficult to cause enough damage to render the board completely unusable.
  
  Also, one note of caution: soldering irons are extremely hot, as the intent is to liquify the solder and attach it to the soldering points.

Don't buy 60/40 solder. Buy 63/37.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJOU/

https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Practical_Electronics/Soldering

So, what's the difference between this sort of solder that has the flux separate and the electronics type solder that I'm more familiar with used with a soldering iron?

This is highly recommended: Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020 1 lb. Spool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Tn0vybNY3QZ01

And if you plan more than one project this soldering iron is great: Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bo0vyb4YNQS1G

Build Log 5: Viterbi

Highlights

• Viterbi split ortholinear 70 key keyboard from keeb.io
  
• Kailh Pro Purple Switches from NovelKeys
  
• DSA Honeywell Keycaps from PrimeKB
  
• Socketed Pro Micro controllers
  
• First personalized QMK keymap!
  
  

  Parts List
  

• 1x Viterbi PCB Kit
  
  • 2x Viterbi PCBs (Rev 1.0)
    
  • 2x Push buttons for reset
    
  • 2x 4.7kΩ resistors
    
  • 2x TRRS jacks
    
  • 78 1N4148 diodes
    
• 70x Kailh Pro Purple Switches (Tactile 50g)
  
• 1x Black PCB Viterbi Plate
  
  • 2x PCB swtich plates
    
  • 2x PCB bottom plates
    
  • 16x M2 6mm screws
    
  • 8x M2 11mm standoffs
    
  • 8x adhesive bumper pads
    
• 1x Silver Sheathed TRRS Cable
  
• 1x DSA Honeywell Keycaps
  
• 1x Red Rubber O-Rings
  
• 2x Pro Micro (ATmega32U4)
  
• 4x Mill-Max 12 Position Ultra Low Profile Socket
  
  

  Resources
  

• Nyquist Build Log
  
• An Overly Verbose Guide to Building a Let's Split Keyboard
  
• Socketing a Pro Micro
  
• A Guide to Flashing a Let's Split for Beginners (Windows)
  
• Build Log 1: Nyquist
  
  

  Tools
  

• Hakko FX888D-23BY & Flush Cutters
  
• Hakko T18D16P Tip for general purpose soldering
  
  • The tip that comes with the FX888D is either this tip or one that is extremely similar.
    
• Kester Rosin Core Solder (63/37 .020)
  
• XOOL ESD Tweezers Tools Kit
  
  • ESD-15 for most work, especially inserting the wires during controller socketing
    
  • ESD-34A for desocketing the Pro Micro controllers after they've been socketed (as a pry bar under the controller and then as a wedge between the underside of the controller and the top of sockets)
    
• Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker
  
• NTE Electronics SW02-10 Solder Wick
  
  

  Notes
  

• The Viterbi build process is pretty much the same as the Nyquist, with the addition of 10 keys. The other difference is the placement of the two resistors, which now are only installed on the master side (the side with the USB cable, the left hand side).
  
• When flashing, I wasn't able to find eeprom files specifically for the Viterbi. I instead used the eeprom files from the Nyquist and everything seems to be working so far.
  
• Some of the keys are a bit crooked... I'm not sure if this is the switches themselves, or me somehow soldering the switches crooked.
  

pffft... flamethrower my ass; https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34

a ten dollar supersoaker and five bucks worth of gas is closer to a flamethrower than the 500 dollar trinket musk is selling here...

Unless they're going to make propane torches illegal that "flamethrower" is going to sell like hotcakes to every idiot with 500 dollars to burn...

Use a propane torch. Before herbicides it was standard.

You have to wet it down first, to 'boil' the roots.

propane torch

It's hard to tell because you used way too much solder, but it looks like you may have cold joints. Thick solder makes it easier to use too much, if your solder is wider than 1mm look into something narrower, I like 0.6mm. (60/40 rosin core preferably.) As for the joint, what you want to be doing is heating both pieces with your iron and then letting the solder melt onto the joint; that's a hot joint. If you just melt the solder onto the joint with your iron, that's a cold joint and you don't want it; they're much more brittle. You can put a dab of solder on the iron tip to help heat transfer (the faster you heat the pieces, the faster you can solder the joint and stop dumping heat into the components) but that solder is not for making the joint.

If you need to go back and fix those joints, invest in a solder sucker to remove it. (Or if you don't mind spending the six bucks, do it anyway, because that extra solder didn't help and can only hurt.)

There's a good series of EEVBlog videos on soldering if you want a more in-depth look at removing the "noob" part from "noob soldering job," Dave does a good job of explaining.

Lastly, if your iron looks like this, consider upgrading to a variable temperature iron like a TS100 (great for field repairs if you make an XT60 adapter for it) or this cheap Stahl, they're both worth the money. (The TS100 is the better of the two, and will work well enough for most small jobs to be your primary iron.) Those cheap pencil irons are pretty worthless, though they'll certainly work if that's all you've got.

soldering is your only real fix for that. You can get solder and an iron for under $10 on Amazon.


http://www.amazon.com/Aven-17542-Desoldering-2-5mm-Length/dp/B003E48ERU/ref=pd_sim_hi_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=188YPQ34V4XST3F9F6P4

http://www.amazon.com/Sinometer-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NNRW4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1419554378&sr=8-5&keywords=soldering+iron

Extreme overkill probably, but if you really want to spoil him...Best investment I have made tool-wise.

If he is just getting started I doubt he will need the hot-air rework side of things, but after a while soldering I wanted one for a long time before I actually got around to picking one up...

Mainly posting this here because I am a big Aoyue fan and everything here is Hakko and Weller.

For a soldering station I would consider new unless you find a great deal on something... For example, I use this at work, it's never given me a problem and it's used quite often (we're a semi conductor manufacturer and I share the lab with another)--granted we use a set of Wellers for most of the soldering, but the Aoyue gets high use for the heat gun and occasionally the soldering iron. I liked it so much that I bought one for home, yeah it's a bit high, but if you're doing SMD or other soldering stuff you will appreciate some of the features and included items.


I'm not sure about power supplies, but one good thing there is that age is usually not a big issue, and if you're just needing standard supplies you can probably get away with a decent 12V supply and then build a few regulators for lower voltages.


I've heard that Rigol oscilloscopes are a great value, and that that the lower rate units can be firmware hacked to higher rates. Personally the trouble I have is that after using $5000 Tektronics scopes at work I can hardly even stand to step down to a $2000 Tektronics, so I can't imagine what using a $350 Rigol would feel like... but if you have nothing, this isn't bad.



I'd also check out ham radio flea markets. BTW I have to say that if you are into electronics and what to make a life/career there is no better place to be than into amateur radio. the ARRL handbook alone is an amazing reference. As a personal responsible for documentation at my work I'm blown away by the quality of the writing for those handbooks. Even older copies are great and they're usually cheap. I have a 2003 copy at work and reference it regularly for either the information I need or a great starting place for researching a topic.

Genesis GHG1500A Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit with Four Metal Nozzle Attachments https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KJ6XCb0YS1FW2

This is the one I got, for less than $20. Great buy.

I've been using this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q2TTQEE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_K3x8wb1ZQJWX1

It works great. You can easily flip your project over and see both sides of the board. I'm not sure how much smaller it is that the one you're looking at though.

SRA-Solder has items on Amazon, they sell Aoyue products in the US.

this would blow your whole budget, but would set you up so you could solder almost anything.

Got a soldering iron for Christmas and dove right in. This is my third 60% build, and by far my favorite.

Parts

• Clear acrylic case and Gat greens from Sentraq
  
• PCB from TechKeys
  
• Black aluminum plate and Cherry stabs from Originative
  
• DSA keycaps (PBT) from PMK
  
• LEDs from switchTop
  
• E-Projects 200 Ohm Resistors from Amazon
  
  

  Tools
  

• Solder sucker
  
• Heat Resistant Soldering Mat
  
• Hakko FX888D Soldering Station
  
• Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031"
  
• Klein Tools Lightweight Flush Cutter
  
  I'm still tweaking my QMK keymap, but will contribute it to the repo once I get it to a good spot.
  

I'm still pretty new to this myself, but like you I have some electronics experience in the past. I just got this Weller 40w iron station with a desolder braid/sucker and a solder tip cleaner. Oh and a more precise tip for the solder iron

I'm really happy with it all so far, and couln't imagine needing more for a while. A heat gun would be nice for de-soldering and reflowing premade boards (like modding Boss pedals), but that can also be done with a regular solder iron as far as I know. You can get the above for about $60 total, so it's a nice way to get your feet wet without a huge investment. Then you gotta add on components/enclosures/pots/switches etc. Maybe get a helping hands and/or circuit holder if you need

Oh and get a good multimeter. I went a step up from the $20 ones and got this one which I'm also really happy with.

I highly recommend using one of these to remove components: https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519764865&sr=8-5&keywords=solder+remover it will make the job much cleaner, I wish I had brought one of these years ago.

>I am worried about the soldering

Soldering is easy. Use this solder and a decent quality hot pen, optimally with adjustable heat that goes up to 500C, you'll need the extra heat for soldering down the 12ga power wires to the flat contacts on the hotbed. I bought this kit on a Christmas sale for like $20 and it was fantastic for my build; had everything I needed. The pen might not last a lifetime like a Hakko or Weller pro station, but it got the job done wonderfully and I'm sure it will get me through my second v3 build here in about a week. (yes, I love this one so much, I'm building a second!)

>cutting out of plastic pieces

There's no cutting anything out, everything is laser cut for you already, you just pop it out.

>is it pretty self-explanatory?

The instructions could be clearer, I'll say. They could definitely reorder a few steps to make the build a bit easier during later steps. That said, it all came together without any issues. Just make sure you keep everything WELL organized.

Now listen,

Disregard everyone on this sub that says "deltas are more difficult," including and especially those with "Rostock Max V2 w/E3dV6" in their flair! ;-) Seriously folks, the meme that deltas are more difficult is dead. Repetier firmare has advanced to the point where calibrating them is even easier than Cartesian and I mean that!

Just so you're aware, I had in my possession 2 Cartesians prior to building this delta, and the cartesians never printed 100 microns perfectly. Literally straight after I finished my v3 build, ran the calibration script, dialed in KISSlicer, and hit print, the Rostock was laying down 100 microns at 80-100mm/sec without issue. I've never had a print lift off the heated bed, and I don't use anything to increase adhesion, just the bare glass.

At .3mm layer height, I can push the speed to 160mm/sec which seems to be the limit of the 8-bit RAMBo board before it starts artifcating pretty routinely. Nothing severe, but there's definitely some imperfections at that speed. Guess what: no one on this sub is printing 160mm/sec on their Cartesians without it looking like absolute shit, and my 160mm/sec prints are passable for prototypes. You're just not going to get that much speed with that high of a precision out of a desktop Cartesian, even with a bowden. You just will not.

Much larger build volume. Lower maintenance. Awesome SeeMeCNC customer support. Higher precision. Faster build times.

Listen, I could have streched my budget and gotten 3 Prusa MK2s and had a friggen sweet little farm going for what I'm paying for two v3s, but the MAX v3 is simply the superior option if you can afford the slightly higher price over the MK2. If you can't hit $999+shipping, just get the MK2. If you can hit that target, just get the v3. It's a better printer.

These are all pretty solid Personally I'm a fan of Aoyue's products too, though both the units I've owned have been on the expensive side, I can link those if you're interested. For solder, I always use this stuff, it works great for switches and stuff like that and is small enough to work alright for SMD work.

Do not use that solder.

Do not use that solder iron.

I use 63/37 resin core solder mostly.

I use a Hakko FX888D (also get T18 compatible wedge tips).

Try this solder. I am using a thicker solder now, but I am going to switch to this one probably.

Some more advice: the wattage you use with cheap soldering irons like that depends on many factors. Do not focus on the temperature/wattage alone. What you want is to get the contact hot enough within 2 seconds to form a good joint. So, touch the iron, two seconds, touch solder, immediately wets and forms the joint (and you remove the solder and iron as the situation dictates).

solder connections are on the bottom of the board. It's going to be a bitch to get off without burning or peeling up leads - those boards are not meant to be re-worked. I'm pretty handy with soldering, this is not something I would attempt except as an absolute last resort, and if I did, I'd go into it prepared to have a ruined board.

If you want to have a crack at it:

• check if they've epoxied the bottom of the board - if they have you can try to get it off, but you might be fucked.
  
• that connector may have some metal tabs that are bent under the board for extra stability - those will be easy to take off
  
• you need a good soldering iron with a fine tip and adjustable power
  
• you need desoldering wick
  
• flux will come in handy
  
  
• you want to have your iron at the lowest possible power that will melt the solder on the board - too hot and you're going to burn the board or detach the contacts.
  
• give the wick a tiny dip of flux, or tin it.
  
• you need to touch the wick to the solder on the board, and heat them both up at the same time. The solder will liquify and the wick will wick it up. Cut off the end of the wick as it soaks up solder
  
• Be very gentle with the wick on the board - it will have a tendency to get stuck or soldered onto the board and if you're not careful you'll pull off a contact pad
  
• don't overheat - liquefy the solder, then pull the iron away, let the board cool down. It's a tedious process, you have to be patient with it.
  
• it's really hard to wick up all the solder out of a joint. Some might go easy but others will be soldering. Shoot for getting 80% of the solder out of the connections.
  
• Once you've got the bulk of the solder out of the joints, you're going to start to lift that socket off the board. Work one side of the socket at a time - lay your iron across 2-3 legs and gently pry up on the socket as the solder liquefies. Work your way up and down the socket, prying little by little. Eventually you'll get one side of the socket up, then work the other side.
  
  But here are some better ideas:
  
  
• Find a male connector that fits into that socket and wire your leads up to the appropriate pins. take that board into a computer shop (they kind where they build and fix desktops) or an electronics supply place and see if they have the connector you need - shouldn't be hard to find.
  
• if you can't find a connector, the next easiest thing will be to solder your aux leads onto the socket pins on the bottom of that board. They're going to be small pitch pins so you'll need a good fine tip iron and some small gauge solder, but shouldn't be too tricky.

Questions asked by chat during stream:

1. What solder wick do you use for desoldering?
   

• https://www.amazon.com/Chemtronics-Desoldering-Braid-Chem-Wik-10-50L/dp/B0019V5MAC
  
  

1. Where can I find what services you provide?
   

• /u/anthonyooiszewen 's services can be found here: https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/694pg6/ustx_h_001keyboards_custom_keyboard_assembly_and/
  
  

1. He got a new switch removal tool from mehkee.com: https://mehkee.com/products/switch-removal-tool
   
   
2. Do all poker and GH60 plates have screws at same place?
   

• Yes, they do. That's why they are really popular!
  
  

1. Cherry vs Costar?
   

• Mostly Cherry, they are easy to mod and know what to do with them. The fittings and dimensions are the same and easier to work with. But in terms of best stabilizers he has ever used, were lubed Costars.
  
  

1. The flux that was on the PCB after using the solder wick to desolder, is that stuck on there or can that be wiped off?
   

• (Chat contribution) You can clean flux off with 90%+ iso alcohol
  
• Or flux remover, but very time consuming (could also rub off flux to rest of PCB)
  
  

1. what size of solder you use?
   
   • 0.8 mm
     
     
2. what temperature did you have to turn your soldering iron to to desolder the vortex solder, vs. soldering zelios switches
   
   • Desoldering Vortex solder: 690
     
   • Soldering Zelios switches: 660
     
   • For faster soldering: 690 - 700, but have to be careful
     
     
3. how are zealio tactile when compared to Gateron Brown... in terms of bump and sound... ?
   
   • Sound: Zelios later rounds sounds a little better because they fixed the rattle in newer rounds
     
   • Tactile: Gat Browns are a little more tactile than Cherry browns, but Zelios is a little more tactile than Gat browns
     
     
     Question by /u/anthonyooiszewen:
     
     
4. How do I make my webcam focus properly?
   
   • Chat: put your hand behind it like makeup gurus
     
     
     ------
     
     Will edit comment if more come up, and of course corrections if I took notes incorrectly :D

Get yourself some desoldering braid, like this, or drop big bucks on a desoldering station. The braid is alright but can require a lot of patience and it needs a big, hot soldering iron.

FWIW, you're conflating soldering and welding. Welding fuses the parent metals and the filler metal together, whereas soldering simply bonds the filler metal around the parent metals.

Kind of off-topic, but if you end up needing a kitchen torch regularly, I'd suggest upgrading to something like this.

It'll run for what seems forever on a canister of propane camp fuel. Propane is a lot cheaper than butane as well.

Plus, it's a multitasker all around the house. I can go from finishing a sous vide steak to loosening the lug nuts on my car's tires. It has also replaced all the flaky lighters in my house.

I have this torch and use MAPP fuel. I would recommend:

• Pat all of the surface dry; as dry as you can get it,
  
• Brush a thin layer of butter to cover the entire surface (for bonus points, throw some goodies into the butter (shallots, garlic, thyme, etc.) while melting it),
  
• Keep the flame moving at all times,
  
• Hold the flame such that the very tip is touching the surface of the food,
  
• Do multiple passes, instead of trying to get it dark the first time you visit a spot.

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

• DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)
  
  
• clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp
  
  
• variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one
  
  
• 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind
  
  
• desolder braid
  
  
• rosin flux
  
  
• contact cleaner
  
  
• (de-oxit d-5)[http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/]
  
  
• flush cutters
  
  
• solder sucker
  
  
• shrink tube of various diameters
  
  
• 92%+ isopropyl alcohol
  
  
• windex
  
  
• q-tips
  
  
• paper towels
  
  
• needle nose pliers
  
  
• nice set of phillips head screwdrivers
  
  
• standard screwdriver
  
  
• miner's headlamp
  
  
• digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly
  
  
• printer for printing service manuals
  
  
• heat gunor hair dryer
  
  
• canned air
  
  
  EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.
  
  All I can think of right now.

This is a pretty awesome iron

https://www.amazon.com/X-Tronic-Model-3020-XTS-ST-Soldering-Station-Complete/dp/B079VVHPPS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=xtronic+soldering+station&qid=1572960802&sprefix=xtronic&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1SDY4UVpHMkNEOEomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAzNjMxNDRKQVlBOUE0WkRYMUcmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDYzMTgyNDFRNEdPRUZIV0g3NVgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

And add the solder https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00030AP48/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Never burned solder with these two. Never over heated or melted anything that wasn’t supposed to be heated up.


Ec3 connectors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XC7QKF2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You should be able to clean off the pads, re-tin them, and re-solder new wires to them.

 

You'll need a few tools:

• A small brass wire brush to clean the gunk off of the pads, something like these: Mini Wire Brush Set
  
• Some desoldering wick - a thin copper braid, like this: Desoldering Wick
  
• Rosin Paste Flux for electronics: Rosin Paste Flux
  
• Some 60% Lead/40% Tin Rosin Core Solder, .062" diameter: 60/40 Rosin Core Solder
  
• A soldering iron. I assume you have one, but if not you can't go too badly wrong with something like this: Vastar 60W Soldering Kit
  
   
  
  Clean and tin the soldering iron tip:
  
  

1. Take some paper towels, fold them up into a square and get it wet with water. You'll use the wet paper towel to wipe off the hot tip between uses.
   
2. Use the rosin core solder and apply some to the soldering iron tip.
   
3. Wipe off any excess on the paper towel.
   
   
    
   
   Remove the solder from the pads on the heat bed:
   
    
   
   
4. Clean the gunk off of the solder pads with the brass brush - the brass bristles should clean off the surface without damaging it, whereas steel bristles may cut into the surface a bit much.
   
5. Unwind a few inches of the desoldering wick (copper braid), and dip the end into the rosin paste flux - you don't need a lot. The rosin helps the solder to flow and keeps impurities out.
   
6. Put the desodering wick on top of the solder on the pad, and then press the tip of the soldering iron on top of the wick until it heats up. For an adjustable soldering iron, 300F is about right - you want the solder to melt within 5 seconds or less, ideally.
   
7. The solder will melt, and get sucked up into the wick. Remove it from the pad while the solder's still hot
   
8. You should be left with a bright shiny tinned solder pad.
   
    
   
   Add some solder to the pads - you'll want a little bit of solder to cover the whole pad, with enough to make a small bump.
   
   
9. Take the solder, and touch it down flat on the pad.
   
10. Place the soldering iron tip on top to melt it. Feed a little more solder in while it's hot, if needed.
    
     
    
    Tin the wires:
    
    
11. Cut off the ends of the wire, and strip off the end of the insulation by about 1/4"-3/8".
    
12. Twist the end of the wire so that it's tight, and straight.
    
13. Cut off a small piece of the solder (~1/2"), and wrap it around the wire
    
14. Dip the end of the wire into the rosin flux - you don't need a lot.
    
15. Touch the soldering iron tip to the solder and the wire, and coat the wire back and forth until the solder gets sucked into the wire.
    
16. It should have enough solder so that it gets absorbed and you can still see the outline of the wires.
    
     
    
    Attach the tinned wires to the tinned solder pads on the heat bed:
    
    
17. Dip the tinned wire into the flux paste again - a little goes a long way.
    
18. Place the tinned wire down on top of the tinned solder pad.
    
19. Press the soldering iron tip on top of the wire, and heat it until the solder melts on both the wire and the pad.
    
20. There should be just enough solder so that the wire is attached to the pad, but isn't buried in solder. If in doubt, add a little more.
    
21. Hold the wire in place, and remove the soldering iron tip. It should cool in a few seconds, locking the wire in place.
    
    
     
    
    Also: You can use some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to clean up the excess rosin paste - it can get sticky.
    
    
     
    
    Hope this helps!

The soldering iron you have is fine. I bought my batteries from console5.com . As far as other things, I would suggest some flux and a desolder braid/wick. If you don't have solder I would grab some of that too. I've got alphafry solder, mg chemicals desolder wick, and sra flux.

Batteries:
https://console5.com/store/panasonic-cr2032-3v-lithium-battery-with-solder-tabs-pins.html

Desolder wick:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00424S2C8/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525828012&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=solder+wick

Flux:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008OC0E5M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525828121&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=solder+flux+pen&dpPl=1&dpID=31u2-ijUmFL&ref=plSrch

Solder:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00030AP48/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525828185&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=solder

I typically use 60 40 0.031 lead solder, which is cheaply available from amazon, including prime. One of these spools will last a very long time for only $30. These tubes are available for smaller quantities.

The main concern with solder is the flux fumes, which are actually worse with higher temperatures and lead free solder. One simple solution to solder fumes is a pc fan with some sort of filter on it, such as this one. I made one for around $4, and it works very well. It also helps to mount it on some sort of arm, such as solid copper wire or one of these. There are many types of fume extractors that would work.

As for the soldering iron, I use a weller wes51, but a hakko fx888 is also good.

Soldering iron, $9. Solder, $2.50. Some shrink tubing, $3.50.

This will do for 90% of casual hobby electronics, for a grand total of $15. If you enjoy it, you'll upgrade the iron (and still be able to use solder and heat-shrink).

You need to learn to solder, but it's easy.

This is my go to list for what you need for soldering:


hakko soldering iron w/ diagonal cutters $91

hakko diagonal cutters $4.37

solder $7

solder sucker $6

solder flux $8 check digikey

solder wick $7 check digikey

wire strippers $10

helping hands $7 check harbor freight

check for lower price

One of the hakko clone stations paired with some genuine hakko tips is probably a good compromise on price/value. Maybe someone else that's from the UK could suggest something different that's also affordable there.

Soldering iron for sure. If you're serious about it then I would get a large one (60-70 watts) and a small one (30 watts), the pencil type are cheap. Or just get one 40 watt.

Get good solder, seriously, you'll fucking hate life with shitty solder. I used to be able to buy it locally but the mom 'n pop store went out of business, and I've tried every solder at Home Depot and they all suck. Both of these are good, however, and you should be able to solder as small of a wire you want with that.

I use 67g zilents and they are pretty good. I like them. Personally, I'm currently using T1 switches, but these are pretty loud.

As for soldering, what equipment do you have right now? All you need is a steady hand, a good soldering iron/station and lots of patience.

And make you sure you have the right solder too - this is highly recommended - it's thin solder (0.031 inch diameter) - and 60/40 - do not get lead-free solder. it just doesn't work as well

https://www.amazon.com/KESTER-SOLDER-32117-24-6040-0027-Diameter/dp/B00068IJPO/

Don't use the new solder. It's crap. Use real lead/tin 60/40 solder. Thankfully, Amazon has us covered.

https://www.amazon.com/KESTER-SOLDER-24-6040-0027-Stand-Diameter/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=pd_lpo_201_tr_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W9A6T0888VBDR9442A5N

That teleporter is halfway built!

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421246616&sr=8-1&keywords=kester+44+rosin+core+solder

I've been soldering for decades and I have never found a lead-bearing solder that worked better overall. I use 0.031" for through-hole work, 0.020" or even 0.015" for SMD and touch-up. The flux is fast-acting enough that I can use Weller 800F tips and a quick-in-quick-out soldering technique, completing the joint before the heat can spread far. In any case, you get best results when you touch the tip of the solder to the junction of iron and wire, aimed such that the flux spits straight into the joint as it boils.

add: Using 63/37 rather than 60/40, you minimize the paste period where the lead has chilled but the tin is molten, thus reducing the chances of a cold solder joint due to movement.
> The 63/37 is a eutectic alloy, which:
>
> 1. has the lowest melting point (183 °C or 361 °F) of all the tin/lead alloys; and
> 2. the melting point is truly a point — not a range.

-- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

Good background info: http://www.kester.com/knowledge-base/faq/

IMO you can use whatever iron you want, but spend money on good solder. I like Kester 44 63/37. 63/37 means 63% lead, 37% tin, which is the "eutectic alloy" for solder. That means it's the lowest melting temp you can achieve (less heat on the joints is a good thing), and maybe more importantly, it melts at one precise temperature, while most solder melts at a range of temps, and within that range it is a kind of goopy solid that's hard to work with. 63/37 totally alleviates that scenario.

Kester 44 is great in particular because it has a huge rosin core which means a lot of flux on the joints, which lets solder flow into the joint easily and avoids oxidation.

My recommendations, and what I have used for a long time. Really don't go super cheep on your iron, you will regret it:

Weller WES51

Long Conical Tip Really necessary if you are going to be building things with small components.

Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020 the link is to a full pound which you might not want to spend the money on right away. The price seems to have doubled in the last 3 months at amazon for some reason. But plenty of places sell Kester Solder

Honestly, I'd get a cheap solid chinese one off amazon, with a proper stand. The SEEED has a bit of an issue staying up to temp.

I've had one of these for a few years, and it's been pretty decent. Half the price, more options, and a much better stand.

A portable iron has more problems than it solves, usually. A nice station is almost always better.

The Weller station should work just fine for you. I have the Aoyue 936 and really love it. It also comes with a spare heating element should the pre-installed one go bad. It also has temperature control rather than wattage control, which I like.

This is a great first kit to get you started. I bought this exact one and built like 5 keyboards with it before I upgraded to a nice Hakko station.

The one thing that you do NOT want to skimp on, though, is desoldering braid. A lot of newbies make the mistake of not planning for mistakes. This kit comes with a cheap desoldering pump, but it is garbage. It might seem pricey, but this stuff is the best desoldering braid on Earth, and will last you a long time. If you even have to desolder so much as a single switch, you'll be glad that you bought this stuff.

Outside of that, as /u/clee290 said, you'll want to watch some soldering videos. It's not terribly complicated stuff, but you'll want to have an idea of the basics to prevent common mistakes.

I’m using

Hot Max 500G Big Max 500,000 BTU... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00282LP34?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

will pair it with a well insulated metal trashcan, one or two layers of ceramic blanket with satanite, and fire bricks at the bottom. Could it get as high as 2300 F? I’d rather not buy a higher range temperature gun if I don’t need to. Thanks for the help.

Actually I do have a flamethrower

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00282LP34/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mOHaub1087HP0

so that could work. But I would most certainly die in the attempt! Horribly.

Right fucking here, boss.

I've done cast iron on an 1800W induction top. I can get that thing in the 600 range, if my IR thermometer is to be believed.

I'm not talking about a plumber's torch like the TS8000. I'm talking about a "weed burner".

One like this https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=weed+burner&qid=1569026185&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Edit: I want to say that these flamethrowers are incredibly powerful and loud. They sear a steak in 5-10 seconds per side. They're also so loud, that it's kinda awkward to use. I'm just waiting for the day for one of my neighbors to come over and ask me WTF I'm doing and why am I running a jet engine in my back yard.

If you don't want to use toxic chemicals, try this bad boy for cookin' them to the ground: Hot Max. Makes weeding actually fun! Then, to keep them from coming back, Sprinkle some of this around: corn gluten. Completely non-toxic, prevents any seeds from sprouting (not just weeds so be careful if seeding), and lasts for several years.

Propane and natural gas burners are not compatible. Make sure whatever your source of fuel matches the burner you buy.

These are good for raku temperatures and beyond.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NXASIC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00282LP34

Unless you're going to do a lot of desoldering then just get a copper wick.

Yep you're correct.

When soldering there are a few basic things you have to consider. The main idea is that you want to heat up the wire and the contact point to the point that the solder will "wick" to the parts. You don't want to just melt the solder on the iron itself and have it drizzle on the parts.

Here are some other basic tips I wish I had been told when I was learning to soldering electronics in no logical order:

• USE A WELL VENTILATED AREA. DO NOT BREATHE IN FUMES!!!! That stuff is really bad for you. Do it in an open garage, or under a kitchen hood.
  
• Make sure you use solder with rosin core flux. NOT ACID CORE FLUX. That's for plumbing.
  
• Thinner solder is easier to work with, you can always use more.
  

3. Use the appropriate size iron for the job or you risk problems like the OP. For something like the 3DS, I'd probably go no bigger than a 35W iron.
   
4. You want the solder to look shiny when you're done. If it's dull looking, it's a cold solder point and a bad contact point. Any movement while cooling frequently causes this problem.
   
5. One of these makes a huge difference. It's cheap and worth buying if you plan to do much electronics soldering.
   
6. Keep your soldering iron tip clean. Frequently wipe it down on a wet paper towel or a wet sponge while using it.
   
7. Don't reuse solder. It's cheap, and the flux inside is important to help it flow.
   
8. Tin the tip of your iron with solder as well as the wire you plan to solder. It's easier to just hold the tinned wire down with an iron where you need to solder than to use another hand to hold solder.
   
9. Don't bother with those gimmicky solder removers to take solder off. Just buy some solder wick and watch it suck all solder off using the solder's wicking action as you hold it on with an iron.
   
   But most of soldering is just practice. It's a pretty easy skill to get proficient at. After a few projects it'll be almost second nature.
   

Don't use lead-free solder, that was my lesson a few days ago. And I was pretty okay with it... but man, the 60/40 stuff is night and day difference with its lower melting point.

Use flux. Like a lot of it. Get one of the containers of it. Anything you're about to touch the soldering iron to, dip it into the flux or wipe flux onto it. I always forget this and when I remember, again, huge difference, things are much easier. I don't understand how it works, I think it conducts heat, but it definitely helps. Even if you have flux-core solder, do this, the flux inside the solder is not enough.

Keep solder on your iron. Any time you need to heat something, put some solder on the iron (if it doesn't already have some) and THEN touch it to that thing. Don't just touch it dry onto something. The solder on the iron is called a solder bridge and it vastly helps heat up whatever you're trying to heat.

When it comes to soldering tips, the bigger the better. And don't use the stupid cone ones; get one of them with one or two flat sides to it. Obviously you can go too big, but the bigger it is, the more surface/mass to conduct the heat from the iron to the thing you're heating.

Preferably get a temperature controlled iron. I heat up things like bullets (non-sensitive components) to 410 C and sensitive things like my ESC wires I drop down to 370. Don't hold it for more than about 10 seconds, if you need longer you're doing something wrong, and the heat is being conducted down the wire onto the sensitive components. You can hold it to the bullet as long as you want though. If the flux is turning black and chunking up your solder, the iron is too hot (it's burning the flux).

Pre-tin wires and bullets. Might be best to find a youtube video. For wires, basically put some solder on the very end of the wire bundle, hold your iron there and try to push your solder into the side of the bundle. When the bundle gets hot enough, you will be able to just push solder into the bundle and it'll disappear as the bundle sucks it up. Once you fill the bundle it'll collect on the outside and that's when you know to stop. For bullets, just put some solder in it and hold the iron until the solder sticks to the edges (sort of makes a U shape), that's when you know the bullet itself heated up enough. Make sure to put enough solder in the bullet, I usually underestimate so I put a little more than I think I need and it turns out alright.

Oh and learn what a cold solder joint is. Don't do it. You can't just heat up solder in the bullet, and then shove your wire into it. Always pull on your connection (HARD) after you solder it to make sure you didn't make a cold joint. But usually you'll know when you made a proper joint, the heat should be adequate and the solder should flow.

These have been my latest lessons learned, hope it helps. Soldering bullets is still a HUGE pain.

edit: (I keep editing) -- make sure to get one of these brass sponge things, basically you shove the iron into it a couple times and it 'wipes' the old solder/flux off the tip, then you tin the tip again (i.e. just put a thin layer of solder on the soldering iron). Do this between everything, and also when you're done with your iron (don't let it cool messy). And optionally get one of these too, it's a little jar about the size of a US quarter and it seems like it's full of rock or something, but you wipe your iron on it and it melts a little, cleans the iron and lightly tins it. I use this if the iron is messier than the brass can handle, or solder doesn't seem to be sticking to the iron.

I think that's all for reals this time.

No, she was sanding it, which removes the plating and destroys it. You clean a tip with something like this, or failing that, a wet sponge or paper towel. This is what the tip of a clean soldering iron looks like, and this is what it looks like when it's working properly (apologies for the focus on the second one, I don't have enough hands).

Never use abrasives on the soldering iron tip. First, use a wet sponge to wipe off the tip before soldering. If there's krud building up that doesn't come off with the sponge, wipe it on a cleaning wire. If the tip gets really bad, it can often be restored with a chemical tip tinner.

Like other posters have said, to make the tip last longer leave a blob of solder on the tip when you are done soldering, wipe it off before starting soldering. And turn the iron temperature down when not using (I turn it down to 450F when it's idle).

It'll be blackened, solder won't stick to it, and it'll have poor heat transfer.

Properly tinning and caring for your tips is one of the first things you should learn--use the bronze puff (or less ideal sponge) to clean off flux and excess solder during use.

If it's a good quality tip, the black stuff will only be burnt on flux, rather than full oxidation of the cladding (at which point, you should replace it). To quote myself from another post (n.b. don't use sand paper to try to clean up your tips):

> I use a scour pad (keep a small part of one in your toolbox, inside a ziplock) on my tip when it gets really carbonized, and then follow it up with Weller tip tinner / activator. As many others are saying here, a low-abrasive bronze puff is better than a damp sponge for cleaning your iron when in use, since it can better wick solder and doesn't subject the tip to as much thermal stress.

Thanks! Glad I could be helpful.

The reflow station/solder paste is just awesome. The results are so much better than the hand soldering I tried to do initially.
My tips for the hot air reflow- Keep the air speed low (I do 1.5 - 1.75 speed @ 350c), you don't want to send the components sliding around the PCB. You only need a tiny dab of solder paste on a tinned board, otherwise you'll end up with little balls of solder where the excess collects. These can be knocked off with tweezers, but you should be careful to check for them as they can cause shorts.

I forgot one of the most useful tools out there! This is maintained by one of the FB Euro SMD DIY Noobs members.

This is the repository I use for .hex files. It's maintained by another SMD Noobs member.

These are the tweezers I use for handling SMD parts.

You'll also want a flux pen! Flux pens are wonderful.

I'd also suggest a magnifying glass or jeweler's loup of some sort for inspecting the PCB for shorts. I use a 10x loupe.



Here's a pic of my current workspace in an unusually clean state.

My SMD component filing technique. A work in progress.

Feel free to let me know if you have any more questions.

Flux Pen

Here is the flux pen I am accustomed to using. It works well for most applications, and is fairly inexpensive.

From my research that I've done in the past this indicates:

1 - bad ribbon connection.

2 - the CPU in the main board (t-con) is going bad.

3 - the cpu has developed some microscopic solder cracks.

Open it up and check for faulty ribbon cable connections. They are fairly easy to take apart just remember where everything goes.

If messing with ribbon cable didn't do anything, and since we may be looking at a bad main board anyway, you may try to reflow the main board CPU.

There are different ways to go about doing this like sticking it in kitchen oven at a certain temperature but the easiest would be to use a heat gun with no clean solder.

Here's an el cheapo heat gun that you can try with out breaking the bank.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

Here's a no clean solder pen:

https://www.amazon.com/SRA-Soldering-Flux-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B008OC0E5M

Youtube "heatgun CPU reflow" to see what I'm referring to.

As /u/Harakou commented, make sure to have desoldering materials. But for desoldering several switches at a time, I had trouble making progress with a regular solder sucker (the braid is very useful for small scale rework). So I bought a desoldering iron for several Planck and Ergodox rebuilds.

And to add to /u/deaconblue42 , a flux pen helped me a lot whenever I struggled to get good wetting action (watch the videos, it's a thing).

You wanna sear your steaks with a heat gun? I've melted butter and the like with one, I've even heated up food out of the fridge with one, so it should work. This is the one I used, on the highest setting. When I read the output temp with a thermometer it showed about 550 degrees F. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU2T8GG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1 for the Hakko FX888D-23BY

Some solder wick and a desolder pump is something else I would add. Also a cheap tip thinner for a noob (like me). Helping hands are cheap and can be useful. Also a cheap variety pack of tips. Nothing expensive till you are comfortable with keeping them clean and tinned.

These are all things I bought when I purchased my Hakko FX888. All have been useful.

Desolder Pumps and Wick

[Tip tinner] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NS4J6BY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k1kZDbJ5TS5Q6)

Helping hands w/magnifying glass

Various Tips

Hakko FX888D-23BY


All of this cost me $146 shipped. Right now, it'll all total to $139.83 shipped if in the US

LOL, that last part, it's happened to all of us though being honest. :P Anyways u/superuser41's suggestions are spot on. I use a Hakko FX888D myself & love it, very nice station for the money IMHO. Never used that particular sodapult but they are well regarded in the community.

Edit: This is a good tip for soldering switches & LEDs (my personal fav size/type for it). You may want to grab a few, it looks like the linked bundle only comes with one tip. Also this is a high quality solder in the right diameter for soldering switches/LEDs. This is good solder wick, This is a good flux, & I always recommend getting some tip tinner.

Get yourself some tip tinner.

I havent built that model but to answer your second question...Be cautious of build guides (or lack thereof). The one you linked has a really good guide. Step by step, clear pictures, and in color. So far, I've found Befaco, AI Synthesis, and Trogotronic to have really good guides.

Also, take your time. Its better to go slow and be sure of your work than rush. Tape! Tape helps me a lot by holding small pieces in place. If you can, get this circuit board holder. I got this magnifying headband for free (that style, not that specific one) and its been really helpful as well.

Here are my go to recommendations for beginners.

Trogotronic VCA

Trogotronic Power System

AI Synthesis

This maybe, or this. I spent no more than that on mine and it's seen me through 6 builds/rebuilds so far, and it's still working.

A proper soldering station is nice, but you can definitely get by with cheap stuff, especially if you don't plan on using it a ton.

Tabiger Soldering Iron Kit 60W 110V-Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with Tool Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1IFT54?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Works great. Most everything you need is included.

If you've got a nice hefty budget, if recommend a Hakko soldering iron. If you wanna go cheap, make sure you get one with a temperature control. [Here] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1IFT54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YA2CzbK19K8S7) is a cheap one that would do the job. I've used that model to build two let's splits. Go to YouTube and watch some "how to solder" videos

Just a heads up, the REV-C to GND jumper wire won't fix all of the issues only seen on the 40-pin models.

Search eBay for a "40 pin type b" cable. It's a revision that fixed quite a few problems ... and one that you haven't seen yet, awful pixel retention / ghosting.

If you go with the "type b" cable, you won't need the jumper connection pictured.

Now, onto your question ...

There's an issue with the way the jumper cable was prepared. The solder point on the REV-C looks like it's touching several pads, not just the intended. To fix what's pictured ...

1. Desolder the cable. Remove it. Heat up the connections and slide the cable off. Don't pull. You do not want to damage the pads.
   
2. Get Solder Wick and use it to soak up the excess solder placed on the REV-C point.
   
3. Properly prep and tin a jumper wire. Clip an appropriate length of cable. Strip the wire at the ends. Twist the cable to make tight piece (no strands hanging out). Apply solder to the cable ends.
   
4. Properly prep the REV-C point. Clean the area with the wick. Heat the pad. Gently bring the solder to the iron. Transfer the solder from the iron to the pad.
   
5. Bring the prepped wire to the pad, apply heat to the wire on top of the prepped pad.
   
6. Repeat for the GND.
   
   Again, all of this is done to fix what I'm seeing in the picture, but this won't fix the next problem, ghosting and pixel retention.
   
   Grab a "type b" cable.
   
   Also, I learned how to solder from watching endless YouTube videos. Here's a good one from Ben Heck.
   

Thanks for the invite! I love barbecue. 🤤

I don't have any kit recommendations, but you'll need:

• Soldering iron (duh, haha; just find something with good reviews that fits your needs with a medium chisel tip)
  
• Solder (this is a good one: https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-0027-Solder-Alloy-Diameter/dp/B07KWFLHBD)
  
• Rosin flux paste
  
• Soldering iron tip cleaner (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Soldering-Cleaner-sponge-needed/dp/B005C789EU)
  
  That covers everything that you'd basically need for a job like this.

I think a lot of people have trouble because they don't have a hot clean tip. My friend who "can't solder" has a 20+ year old soldering iron with a corroded tip. I use a wet sponge, cleaning wire, and tip tinner interchangeably to keep it clean as I go.

Also having one of those magnifying glass/alligator clip holders is extremely helpful.

One more question... do you personally use wicks or a pump for desoldering? If you prefer a pump, can you recommend one?

Might go with this newer version because it comes with more tips.

Heres my baby .. ZERO COMPLAINTS

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FA481G/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an aouye 968A+, it has very precise controls for both the heat gun and pencil. great value. amazon and sra soldering have complete kits including parts, it's better to buy from them than on ebay.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006FA481G

Not the one I have...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FA481G/

Heated PCBs are hard anyway because they are a weird combination of heatsinking and thermally insulative. If you are ever going to solder a second thing, just get a good Hakko or something. I have the analog version of the linked iron, and love it. I leave it at 350C constantly ... it gets to temp in like 20 seconds and holds it rock solid.

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Digital-FX888D-CHP170-bundle/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421772043&sr=8-1&pebp=1421772044939&peasin=B00AWUFVY8

Also:
http://www.amazon.com/SRA-Soldering-Flux-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B008OC0E5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421772121&sr=8-1&pebp=1421772121985&peasin=B008OC0E5M

I'd highly suggest you plunk down and get both. You'll feel like a wizard from now on with soldering. For the flux pen, just drown your connections, wire, pads, etc in flux before soldering. Within a very generous reason, you cannot overflux things, and it makes the solder actually behave like it should. It globs where it's supposed to, doesn't make those stupid little peaky points that bridge everywhere, and so on.

> along with a soldering iron to do repairs.

Totally agree. I would suggest any of the Weller pro series models(Indicated with the light blue chasis like the Weller WP35). Even their most inexpensive model is better than anything I have used off the shelf at Home Depot. Consistent tempuratures and fast heat up.

Additionally, I would also recommend a solder sucker and a flux pen. You could splurge for something like a Haako Desoldering gun which works great but unless you are doing entire board repairs the simple spring loaded ones work fine and costs considerablly less.

If you don't have any solder I recommend [63/37 Resin Core](Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031" 1oz Dispense-Pak https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AVLM4SO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xwuEybG623XFQ), don't need flux or anything with resin core, just the solder. GL!

Kester 44 63/37 is approximately the best solder you can buy for keyboard related needs, available in both 1lb spools and 1oz tubes. Yes it's a bit pricey, but solder is one of those things where you get what you pay for, and dealing with cheapo no-name solder can actually lead to damage to components.

Nothing expensive required. I suggest starting with a kit like this it contains a lot of the tools you will need for keyboards. The only change i would make would be to also get some Kester 44 solder like this. I'm happy to walk you through it via facetime or in person. Let me know.

I would recommend solder a little thicker than the other gentleman because with .5mm solder you'll be spending a bit more time feeding the solder than .8mm solder.

I solder at 270 °C. Temperature is more or less a preference (there are limits though).

Soldering keyboards doesn't really require any holding of the pcb. Perhaps you mean holding the solder? - Use your hands.

Edit: bonus soldering station recommendation: If you plan on doing a bit more soldering work in the future you might want to consider this cheap but decent soldering station. Only con is that it doesn't come with extra tips or tweezers etc.

If you already own a couple of customs, go Hakko or go home.

Pick that up, and some small gauge Kester 63/37, and you're good to go.

Check Craigslist for guitars that have electronic issues or are completely dead. For example I got an rg321mh that has a perfect neck and frets for $60. All I had to do was rewire a new input jack. Get a cheap solder pen and some 63/37 rosin core solder.

Wiring guitars is WAY easier then most people think. You can find diagrams for almost any production guitar/pickups.

Just make sure your frets, neck, and nut are good, that stuff is a pain to fix. The rest you're replacing anyways.

I just do a full rewire. Buy the following for a dead guitar: 1. CTS pots. 2. Switchcraft input jack and switch. 3. 22awg cloth sleeved wire. Use a multimeter to check pickups resistance. Or just get some guitar fetish pickups of your choice for a cheap option of new pickups. Then just do the full rewire following a diagram. Make sure to pre-tin your solder pen, the solder point, and your wire. Also sand the back of your cts pots for easier adhesion. Pickup a $5 helping hands from harbor freight to hold stuff to solder.

All this stuff will cost you around $50-60 with a cheap solder pen kit ($12 Amazon) and you will have enough wire and solder to do a bunch of guitars.

You will have a completely rewired guitar in less than 2 hours of work.

Here is links to solder pen, solder, and wire. The rest just lookup for your guitar you're gonna rewire.

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Soldering-Iron-Full-Welding/dp/B01712N5C4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6


https://www.amazon.com/Gavitt-Cloth-covered-Pre-tinned-Pushback-Vintage-style/dp/B00JYJFE72/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=22+awg+wire+cloth&qid=1556147584&s=gateway&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Dispense-Pak/dp/B00AVLM4SO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=IRV7SJBS91YR&keywords=63+37+solder+kester&qid=1556147625&s=gateway&sprefix=63+37&sr=8-4

Indeed. This and this are perfectly adequate for an enormous amount of practice, and come to less than $40, delivered.

It's way, way better kit than what was available inexpensively when I got started.

For anyone reading this, a standard heat gun has a lot of uses, but is the great for efficiently cleaning the stock of cosmoline.

Edited a profile to get your settings about right, should help.

https://files.fm/u/bbeq5kqk

Also heat guns eat up strings, just use quick passes once the gun is up to temp, if you linger on a miniature for more than 2 seconds you'll probably start to get deformations.

https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-GHG1500A-Temperature-Nozzle-Attachments/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1524940417&sr=1-1&keywords=heat+gun&dpID=41o%252BjfZKenL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Genesis GHG1500A Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit with Four Metal Nozzle Attachments https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SerOBbD9N3VW3

Heat guns are cheap.

I think they might even be cheaper at Home Depot.

I highly recommend spending a bit of money to get an actual heat gun, as opposed to a hairdryer. They're not that expensive (here's the one I have for $19), and they blow MUCH hotter than hair dryers. The advantage is that you can just sweep them across the model and the strings will basically vanish before your eyes. With a hairdryer you usually have to hold it in place for a second which can result in the warping

Easy fix. Anyone saying to cut the loop off has never actually strength tested these loops.

Watch the end of this video.

To fix your loop instead of cutting it off, buy polyolefin tubing. 3-5mm should be about right.

Next, buy a heat gun.

Cut a short length of tubing, slide it over the end of your line, and waft the heat gun so the tubing shrinks and the line inside it liquefies but does not burn. Let it cool, then peel the heat shrink back off (use a pair of tying scissors to snip it and get it started so you can peel it).

It'll be good as new. You can also cut that one off and make another if you want a new loop. Fly lines have about 2 feet of level tip material to allow for this kind of cutting.

No knot is as strong as a welded loop. Welded loops were about 3X stronger on average than every knot I tested, sometimes more. Here is my original thread on the tests I did.

Here are the results of my strength tests for the Fly Rod & Reel article:

Knot Break Strength - Tested to failure with Boga Grip using 20 lbs. monofilament

|Knot | Test 1 | Test 2|
|---------|----------|----------|
|Nail Knot (5 Turns) | 10 lbs. | 10 lbs.|
|Albright Knot (5 Turns) | 12 lbs. | 12 lbs.|
|Doubled-Line Nail Knot| (6 Turns) 8 lbs. | 10 lbs.|
|Double Surgeon’s Knot | (20 lb. to 20 lb.) 14 lbs. | 18 lbs.|
|Castwell Knot | 13 lbs. | 12 lbs.|
|Welded Loop | 20 lbs. X 3 attempts (see video)|

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

Get your self some tip tinner, which is usually a combination of sal ammoniac and solder paste. Use it sparingly-- only once your tip won't wet on its own after being wiped clean.

I recently bought one of these for myself and I couldn't be happier as a DIY hobbyist:

Hakko Dial type temperature limiting soldering iron FX600

I only use it for hobby stuff such as Quadcopters, 3D printers and electronics kits but it's way better than the 8watt USB powered I was using before.

Pair it with this and this and you should be good for a while and roughly within budget.

Check YouTube for soldering tutorials. Plenty out there.

Definitely tin the tip of the iron everytime you solder. I also use some of this to help keep the tip clean.

I know you don't want to go for a more expensive iron but my hakko iron is awesome and it really makes soldering more enjoyable. Worth the investment if you stay in the hobby.

This is the one that I use, its been holding up pretty well. Just be sure to keep the tip clean and tinned, it's a pain when they start to oxidize. I use something like this. Also be sure to get the right sized tip(s) for your projects.

yep, get this! should fix up the tip basically back to new

I have an old thing of Radio Shack brand tip tinner but you can get it from Amazon by just searching "tip tinner". My Radio Shack stuff looks a lot like this.

I hate having to retype stuff. But you should have a look those posts anyway.

Also get some kapton tape and maybe some tip cleaner/tinner.

I will third this choice. Just buy a big spool- you will not be sorry. This solder doesn't have a plastic state- it goes directly from liquid to solid so your chance of cold joints are virtually nil.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJOU/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_pLjXCbHS5HRYE

Also the Hakko 888 is a dream. Like others I got a wide assortment of tips with it so I have the right tool for each job. If I could add one other must must must have, it's this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NS4J6BY/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_tOjXCbDNSRC4K

That stuff is the cat's ass. Get it.

is this a good one?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NS4J6BY/ref=crt_ewc_img_oth_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A614WYM65K035

Seconded, also consider this kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17010-Adjustable-Circuit-Holder/dp/B00Q2TTQEE/ - it's invaluable for PCBs. Just populate from one side, add something to hold stuff in place (like gaffa tape, or bend one lead, or clip on a sheet of paper, etc), turn over the PCB and start soldering away. I wouldn't want to miss mine.

Any soldering iron 40+W where you can regulate the temperature should do, I own a nice station but when I don't feel like breaking it out because it'd take longer to set it up than to do the job I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ set to 350°C. Just make sure to clean and tin your tip regularly and it will do the trick just fine Oh, but ditch the solder and get a few spools of good rosin core solder of different gauges, it's not expensive but worth it. In my experience, the solder that comes with kits like that mostly works as a deterrent.

If you're not planning on buying all-included kits also get a few spools of stranded core wire of different colors. You could use solid core wires but those tend to break if they're getting bended from movement without showing it. With stranded core some strands may break but as others don't they'll continue to work. Invisibly broken wires (i.e.) inside the isolation) are a *beeeeep* to debug.

Also, a set of tweezers are great to have, especially the kind that holds stuff together per default, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Curved-Tweezers-Cross-Jewelers-Soldering/dp/B000OVPG9A/ (only an example, I'd get a tweezers set that contains one like that).

In my experience a tool set like this one is great to have: https://www.amazon.com/Haobase-6Pieces-Double-sided-Soldering-Assist/dp/B01DLX6V3C/ - especially the bending tool is great to have, as it allows eg to bend the leads of a LED without running the risk of breaking the LED itself. It's also great in order to clean up mistakes, helps with desoldering and such

Speaking of desoldering: desoldering braid is a must. A desoldering pump can be useful, too. And yes, practice soldering and desoldering until you can do both without destroying anything.

If you're not going to buy pre-drilled enclosures then you very likely want a) a center punch and b) stepping drill bits. Those let you drill holes in all kinds of sizes without having to buy lots of drills.

Last but not least a wire cutter is a must

The nicest one I have ever used was [this one by Otto Frei.](
http://www.ottofrei.com/Store/Soldering-Stations-Third-Hands/GRS-004-570-Double-Soldering-Station-With-2-Third-Hands.html) I really liked it when I borrowed it to do some wire harness and cable modifications, so much so that I looked it up afterward, but I couldn't handle the sticker shock.

For pedal making/modifying, I would recommend a circuit board holder and a typical helping hand (with or without magnifying glass) so that you have both hands available to use the iron and feed solder.

I've used what's essentially this kit for something like 9 boards so far, and it's still going strong.

You don't really need to spend a lot, if it's just for a few little projects.

A little over a year ago I desoldered and resoldered my entire CM Quickfire TK because I wanted to plasti-dip the backplate (I know did it the hard way but it was interesting to do it that way". I later desoldered and resoldered every single LED because I wanted a slightly cooler shade of white.

To this day My keyboard works perfectly. I did research on soldering and practiced on an old portable DVD player.

I bought a cheap soldering kit and [higher quality solder] (https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-AM31605-Leaded-Rosin-Solder/dp/B0044UH8PC/ref=sr_1_46?ie=UTF8&qid=1500437544&sr=8-46&keywords=alpha+fry+solder) with a rosin core made specifically for PCB's.

This is what I did for a 95% clean job. Note this was my VERY FIRST time ever soldering and I think I did a pretty nifty job.

• Set the temperature to 150C on the iron
  
  
• DO NOT USE THE SOLDERING INCLUDED IN THE KIT. Use the solder I mentioned earlier. (you can find it cheap on ebay i think)
  
  
• I found the included suction pump to work better than copper wick but it's the other way around for some other people.
  
  
• The second I saw the joint melt I sucked that puppy up
  
  
• Keeping the tip is very very important. Clean the tip every 1-2 joints you solder/desolder on a damp sponge.
  
  
• After cleaning the tip melt a little bit of solder directly on it. This is called tinning and this helps you solder a clean joint very easily.
  
  
• when desoldering try your best to not touch anything that is not solder or else you'll burn the pads.
  
  
• When applying solder, you're supposed to place the tip on the thing you're trying to solder, then you place the solder on said thing :P
  
  
• sometimes you can't get all the solder out. DONT KEEP TRYING TO MELT THE VERY LITTLE LEFT OVER SOLDER. Use a pair of tweezers and jiggle the contact until the solder of solder breaks off.
  
  Look up tutorials. They're very useful

You probably broke off the ground wire. Unscrew the jack plate and have a look. If there's only one wire attached to the jack, there's your problem. You'll need a soldering iron, but the repair is super easy.

Starting out with a basic 20W handheld iron is fine. You dont need a complex temperature controlled one for you first few projects. Get a little stand so you can put it somewhere safe after each step.

Use leaded solder while you are learning as its easier to work with. Just avoid inhaling the smoke (or even get a small fan filter) wash your hands after working.

Get a basic handheld solder sucker to correct basic mistakes.

A kit like this actually looks pretty solid to start with!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1IFT54/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493103880&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=soldering+iron&dpPl=1&dpID=51YRK651M%2BL&ref=plSrch

Use the soldering tip to heat the PCB pad and leg of the part at the same time for about a second and then touch the solder to the opposite side of the leg to the iron. Solder should flow even and form a gentle cone shape.

typcially id agree that you'd wanna spend a bit more and get a really nice iron, but if you're just doing casual stuff I have a mudder soldering iron kit with variable temperature and multiple tips and it's done a great job. It feels a bit cheap but I've used it to build mic preamps and a microphone with ease. Also the case is nice to have.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1IFT54/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491221370&sr=8-5-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mudder+soldering&psc=1

This looks like the same kit but the brand name has changed for whatever reason.

This the Iron I order a while back. Temp control and comes with a fine tip point.

Don’t forget, you need one with a tip the size of a pen. Any bigger and you will burn your pcb. This is a decent one that I use

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Weller ST7 ST Series Conical Solder Tip Hobbyist for WP25, WP30 and WP35 Irons, 0.31" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSP4K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I14V4X8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Sometimes for the smaller welds, like on LEDs, try adding solder before sucking.

Those are fine but honestly you don't need all those extra bit and bobs.

Just get the same basic soldering iron off Amazon, a desoldering iron like this one or a desoldering pump.

A solder sucker and solder wick are definitely necessary for fixing mistakes. I use one like this.

Uf, that's quite the problem you've got there. For future reference, clean the contact pins on the cart with isopropyl alcohol or electrical contact cleaner. It's the most common cause for "jumbled Nintendo logo."

As for the solder, you'll need a solder sucker and desolder braid to remove that. Reflowing a chip is definitely not something I'd recommend to someone who hasn't soldered much before. It's not going to be easy, but it shouldn't be too difficult either. Avoid using the cart until you fix it, though. You might just damage the cart further.

Edit: Details.

You're using one of those "kitchen" torches aren't you? They're garbage. Get a real torch and it'll be easy as can be.

http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09

Seriously. It's pretty much impossible to use those kitchen torches for anything beyond lighting candles.

unlimited budget? challenge accepted:

backup vitaprep base, multiple backup vitaprep tops. another robot coupe, with the extended housing and specialty blades. extra robot coupe blades. extra circulator or two. whatever size the professional kitchen aid mixers are these days - one of them, with all the gadgets and gizmos. depending on the size of the gear you have, large and small immersion blenders.

more pans. a few of something like these that will stay flat for searing fish. more pots. more plates. more plastic squeeze bottles. one or two of these. if you're also in charge of glasses and silver, more of that. more china caps. more chinoises.

more cambros. more lids. more 1/9,1/6, and 1/3 pans - deep and shallow, with enough false bottoms for all sizes to cover 25% of the pans. more pan spacers for the service coolers. more sheet trays. more 1/2 sheet trays - perforated and non perforated. more hotel and 1/2 hotel pans - 2, 4, and 6 inch; perforated and non perforated. more ladles, particularly 2oz and 4oz. more cutting boards. more buss tubs. more lexans, both perforated and non perforated. lids for those lexans.

if a tilt skillet can be a thing, one (or more) of them. or a steam jacket kettle. just something you can conveniently roll stocks in. garbage disposals in the dish pit. couple of blowtorches.

butcher's twine, cheesecloth, blue (or whatever color you choose) tape, sharpies, and pens - enough that finding any one of those items shouldn't be an issue. a case of bic lighters to keep in the office. more clipboards, because they're fucking useful.

http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1374969761&sr=1-1&keywords=bernzomatic

If I had nothing and wanted to purchase decent quality stuff but still being affordable, I'd do the following.

Multimeter $45

Soldering Station $38

Solder $25

Desoldering Pump $6

If this is the only time you ever plan on soldering, then you can get away with the cheap stuff. You could probably source some of it locally for cheaper. None of this is great quality, but it will do the job for a 1 time project. While I wouldn't enjoy it, I could build an Ergodox with the following setup.

Desoldering Pump $6

Multimeter $13

Solder $9

Soldering Iron $8

Iron Holder $6

Hey! Glad to help. This Is the exact soldering iron I use. Extremely effective, I keep it at a 3 at all times, seems to be a legit temperature for everything Gameboy related.

The Solder I use works really well, rarely sticks to the soldering tip (like many other ones I've tried) and seems to be the most consistent. It's also supported by HHL - so you know it's solid!

Hope that helps.

I wanna be unhelpful, too!

• A decent video for beginners
  
  
• Soldering irons are pretty cheap
  
  
• Gonna need solder
  
  
• And some flux...
  
  
• Finally the motors, I don't know what motors you want or where to get them. I've always used u/Duke_Wintermaul.
  
  I suppose I could've been less helpful...

This is what I've been using to build my quads

Solder

Wick

Flux

60/40 rosin core should be good.

Alpha Fry AT-31604 60-40 Rosin Core Solder (4 Ounces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030AP48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BhXXzbASH0FHM

Use solder wick and a wide tip to clean the old solder off

NTE Electronics SW02-10 No-Clean Solder Wick, #4 Blue, .098" Width, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195UVWJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9eXXzb1S3RHKS

Use lots flux. Coat the area before you use the wick and again before you solder. It helps bond the solder to the metal.

MG Chemicals No Clean Flux Paste, 10 ml Syringe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mgXXzbTRM5G78

A good iron helps so very much. This is what I have

Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RiXXzb76H6WDS

However this should do for occasional use

Vastar 60W 110V Welding Soldering Iron with Adjustable Temperature Dial, 5pcs Interchangeable Different Soldering Iron Tips and Solder Tube for Soldering Repaired Usage, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RCB7KB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_slXXzbQRJVVZ2

When you are done clean with 90% or above isopropyl alcohol and let dry before you use.

Watch some videos on how to use the wick. Its a great tool to have and works so much better than the crappy suckers.

Look up some tutorials on youtube. A good iron makes a world of difference. I struggled with properly tinning all the irons I've used previously which were just those cheap $8 dollar irons from like walmart. The weller that was in my dad's stuff wasn't much more expensive but they make quality stuff.

The tip tinned very well and everything was fairly smooth. If you don't have a decent stock of soldering supplies I would purchase them before you start.

Here's a quick rundown of what I would recommend:

Simple Weller Soldering Iron

Helping Hands

Desolder Wick

Kester .03" solder

Having the desolder wick saved me a few times when I had some bad flow from the parts not having adequate heat and the solder just clumping on the pin rather than flowing into the connection. You just lay the braid over the solder and press your iron on top and it will soak the solder into the braid and leave your parts clean. You'll probably want something to clean your solder iron tip with. You can buy a Hakko cleaning stand with wire brush for $10 on amazon or you can just wet a scotch brite pad you buy from walmart for a few dollars.

You can use solder you already have if it's a small enough diameter. You want small diameter so that when you touch it to the part (not to the iron) it melts quickly and you dont have to continue to apply heat to the parts. As far as actually handling the solder while you're trying to work I like to cut a small length of solder, maybe 6-8 inches and then wind it in a mini spool around my pinkie finger and leave a length of it sticking out so you have something to hold on to that will give you good control.

How-To Solder Instructable

Once you make the connections look at them, a good connection should typically be shiny and not cloudy. It's likely overkill for this project but those are good practices.

I find Kester to be a pretty decent solder.

Assuming you want a 60%, that's already 59 without shipping just for the MOD-M's. Unfortunately, no matter how you swing it this specific board is not going to be possible for under under $100. Even with the cheapest parts I can think of:

• MOD-M = 59
  
• GH60 Satan PCB = ~40
  
• Aliexpress plastic case = ~15
  
• Aliexpress plate = ~18
  
• Aliexpress stabs = ~5
  
  We're at $137 already even ignoring the underglow.
  
  But, assuming you want to go through with it - here's where to get the goods.
  
  
• MOD-M switches @ originative
  
• GH60 Satan PCB, case, plate, stabs @ aliexpress
  
• Soldering iron - cheapest one I can find is around 20 at Radioshack
  
• Solder - amazon
  
• Ebay should be good for the LED's and the LED strip for underglow
  
  Here's a guide to make the GH60 have underglow
  
  

Wow thanks for such a thorough response!!!

1. yeah I figured as much, I'm thinking i'll start with Corded Hitachi , or Corded Ryobi and then if it ever breaks or if I need a cordless I'll upgrade down the line.
   
2. True, Likely worth the upgrade. Do you think I should focus on Titanium over Black Oxide? or is a reputable brand the main concern?
   
3. Thanks for the insight!
   
4. Solder , Gotcha Yeah i'll try to see if I can find anything like this locally (smaller quantity preferably)
   
5. Stahl Soldering Gun , I'm thinking this one which was linked elsewhere in this thread.
   
   6/9/10 - I think they were written into the manual as different ways in which to attach the crossover board to the bottom of the box. how do you normally attach it to the bottom of the box?
   
   I'm considering Crossover Board , just to help with organization, however i'd still need to attach it to the bottom of the box.
   
   ​
   
   I just realized I forgot speaker wire for the internals, does it matter a lot which gauge? any general guidance.
   
   ​
   
   I would really like to complete the outside of the boxes , as i may end up giving them away as a gift eventually. wondering if i'll need a Sander , if i plan on doing vinyl or some sort of wrap? I'm not against painting, just against spray painting.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   Also forgot Snips

• Amazon
  
• Micro Center
  
  You probably also have local maker/computer stores that sell it. Look for the type of place that sells Arduinos or Raspberry Pis. You can also order from Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. Fry's also sells it, but unless you live near one, it's unlikely to beat Amazon Prime.

Glad to help :)

Here is EEVblog's tutorial set on soldering. Part 1 and 2 will be more relevant for your purposes. In the first part he talks about tools (which includes your actual solder), how they work, and why certain properties are important, so you know what you need. In the second he talks about the process for through hole soldering (like you need for the holtites) and how to know you're doing it properly, and things to look for. Part 3 is for SMD stuff, which doesnt affect you in this scenario, but I tacked it on just for good measure.

• Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ
  
• Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY
  
• Part 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE
  
  FWIW you dont need a great iron, it just makes it easier to avoid damaging your board, and do things at a speed you're comfortable with. You can absolutely get good results with a cheapo iron, it just requires some extra precision.
  
  I'd recommend picking up some extra holtites (if you have a few already thats fine you don't need a ton), and a piece of breadboard, and just practicing a bit first until you're comfortable with the process, as well as your iron and materials. A small piece of breadboard like this would work.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0778G64QZ
  
  This is the solder I use, you can also buy it by the ounce (1lb is quite a lot). You can get it thinner than that even, too, but thats ~3-4 sheets of paper thick.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJOU

Seems like theres a leaded one too (which seems to make a better connection?) https://www.amazon.ca/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486408969&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Kester+44+Rosin+Core+Solder+63%2F37+0.80mm+%280.031+inches%29+1+lb.+Spool

Like others have said, unfortunately, yeah it's dead, but don't let that get you down! My first desoldered job, I did some serious butchery to the board. Luckily I was able to fix it so that it's functional, but it ain't pretty. But now I have no problems with desoldering. Like /u/anthonyooiszewen said, it could have been a few things. Definitely make sure you use a good leaded solder. I, personally, like this stuff. Next, definitely make sure you have a soldering iron with temperature control, and DO NOT RUN IT TOO HOT. Lastly, do yourself a favor, and get one of these.

I <3 my Kester, but I'm not sure if they sell it in smaller sizes. I got this a while back and I have a ton of it left after soldering 8 boards since I got it, so not sure if OP would want 1 lb. of solder if his/her only plan is to de-solder and solder 1 board.

This stuff, Kester 63/37, 0.20 inches, is pretty perfect for small fiddly stuff without being too thin to use for through-hole soldering. The 63/37 mix is eutetic which is a fancy way of saying that both the tin and lead melt at the exact same temperature.

For flux, you won't regret getting a flux pen, for example something from SRA soldering or MG Chemicals.

This low temperature solder paste is interesting, also. It is lead free, and melts at fairly low temperature. In fact I think this is the same alloy also sold as 'Chip Quik'. Even if you only have a soldering iron, assembling boards can be quite a bit faster with solder paste. And hey, a hot air station is only like 50 bucks.

I agree here. If you can spring for some "good" stuff, Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 (in your diameter of choice) is my go-to all purpose solder, and a 1lb spool lasts a really long time.

Also, some rework flux is good for fixing mistakes. I can personally recommend ChipQuik

Unless I specifically need solder paste, I can do anything with those two products.

Yeah, that would be alright. An unregulated iron would get way too hot, so having any kind of regulation makes all the difference. With one of those irons, I would use an official Hakko T18-S7 tip, this solder, a flux pen, and some 99% isopropyl on q-tips to clean up the flux afterwords.

The temperature you want is as low as possible but still hot enough to melt the solder pads as soon as the iron contacts. Somewhere around 330C. When you're doing a hard mod, you don't want to make contact with the iron for more than a few seconds at a time or you could start melting off SMD components around the pads. Allow the board time to cool between wires.

To contradict OP, almost anyone can do a hard mod with the right equipment and technique. It's basically cheating with the above setup. People who botched theirs had to be doing things very wrong.

This is what I use.

Oh shoot! Thanks for reminding me, I was at work when I responded. I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00068IJWC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It's 0.02" not sure about mm sorry Dx

I'm hesitant to go against the grain on this one but I've had good luck with this. They also make an analog version.

Hey, I'm looking into picking up my own soldering kit and desolder pump.
I need it to have a fine tip as I will be working with really small pcbs outside of keebs and I need a desoldering pump as I will be modifying some old gamecube controllers.

I've been reccomended https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-AO936-AOYUE-Soldering-Station/dp/B000VINMRO and https://www.amazon.com/10pcs-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Tip-for-Hakko-Station-900M-933-907-936/dp/B00GZGLQW4/ as a kit + tips, is this good and what desoldering pump should I pick up?

TL;DR: What soldering kit with fine tip + desolder pump for small jobs?

I have a $40 AOYUE 40ish watt adjustable soldering station (it's a clone of the hakko old 936) I got from Amazon, then added a real hakko 1/16" chisel tip. These have been reviewed by a bunch of people including EEVBlog and Big Clive on YouTube. They are solid and inexpensive. They are Chinese, so if you ebay or aliexpress etc around you'll find identical ones under other brands. There's also now several slight variations, like digital control etc with very similar looks and naming (937 are the digital for example). All the variations have the same soldering iron. They take genuine hakko tips, and since chisel tips are better than thin pointy "pen" type tips for our usage, I went ahead and just got a real tip. Had this for like 3 years and it's never let me down.

Plus you can find them as low as $19+shipping from some places.

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-AO936-AOYUE-Soldering-Station/dp/B000VINMRO

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004OR9BV4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495002165&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hakko+chisel+tip&dpPl=1&dpID=41bjcAF3UYL&ref=plSrch

Trust me when I say: variable temperature makes a big difference. I have a knockoff of the Hakko 936. The closest thing on amazon.ca is this Aoyue, which I've heard good things about. You don't need hot air as a beginner (or even for most surface mount work), so don't go to the top of the line. You can get cheap rosin core solder to get started. FYI, every set of helping hands like these I have ever owned have been absolute garbage. The vise suggested by /u/rykki will be dramatically more useful, even though it will cost more. (But it might also have applications outside of soldering.)

I have been using this solder and I bought this Aoyue soldering station both because they were cheap and I just started myself

I'm learning soldering myself and have this kit. It has served me well and is adjustable, which my more experienced colleagues assure me that was a good decision. 3 months and no issues (:

Are you referring to solder wick? This sort of thing:

http://www.amazon.com/Chemtronics-Desoldering-Braid-Chem-Wik-10-50L/dp/B0019V5MAC/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1462654881&sr=1-3&keywords=solder+wick

The microswitch looks to be a Omron switch. Would make sense since Razer also sells gaming mouses that use this switch. As far as the joystick, I have to agree with /u/ScryptHasher and say that this is more than likely an off the shelf part. For this I would just search on Ebay for replacement Xbox One joysticks and find one that matches closests to the original.

For desoldering I highly recommend watching some videos on YouTube. Take your time. Also pick up some decent desoldering wick with flux, such as Chemtronics Desoldering Braid.

Good luck on your adventures repairing this controller and hopefully many more electronic projects in the future!

For soldering the number one advice I can give is to make sure you always leave a little bit of solder on the tip of your iron when you put it back on its cradle. This prevents the tip from oxidizing. If you do this your tips will last a very long time and you will not have to use tip tinner / cleaner. You clean the tip before you make a solder joint and you put solder on the tip when you are done with it. That is not intuitive to a lot of people.

For protoboard vs breadboard the same "best practice" things apply. Check to make sure ground or power isn't connected where it shouldn't be before you power it up, use star grounding, etc.

For the iron the gold standard is the Hakko 888. If you want to save some money go with the Weller WLC100. The good thing about that WLC100 is that it will heat any tip that will fit in there whereas the 888 you have to have the right tip. Don't waste your money on one without temperature control. The WLC100 and 888 will last forever. The Chinese clones most likely will not.

Conical tips are terrible for most any soldering, don't use them. You want a chisel tip. My advice to practice is get some wire and solder pieces of it together without. Do it without twisting the wires and do it until your solder joints come out nice an clean without a long solder tail attached to the iron. That happens when you burn all the flux out of the solder. The fumes off solder are the flux burning and flux smoke is terrible for you. Don't breathe it. Your solder joint is good when the wire will break before the solder joint.

For wiring up perfboard I always use magnet wire. You remove the enamel with the soldering iron an a bit of solder. The fumes from doing this are really nasty is the only drawback. If it doesn't want to come off nick the enamel insulation with a hobby knife and it will come right off. I find with plastic insulated wire I am always melting the insulation.

Hopefully someone will chime in on online soldering tutorials that are worth watching. I learned my tricks from a week long IPC-610 training class years gone by so I don't have any to recommend.

Lead free solder is much harder to work with than lead solder. Only use lead free if you have to because your product is going to be sold in Europe. Not all desoldering wick is created equal. Some of it pulls solder right off your board. Some of it just pushes the solder around the board without sucking it into the braid. You want a wide braid with a good flux on it. I bought a spool of this recently and it is the best I have used in a while:

https://www.amazon.com/Chemtronics-Desoldering-Braid-Chem-Wik-10-50L/dp/B0019V5MAC/

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34

Hooks up to a propane tank and burns at 500,000 btu.

It was pretty simple. Here's what I used:

• [Blow torch $50] (http://smile.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
  
  
• [Tung oil $60/gallon] (http://smile.amazon.com/Real-Milk-Paint-Pure-Tung/dp/B007RO1PJC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
  
  
  A little pricey for the torch, but it's great for getting rid of weeds/killing sod. And I use it to light my pizza oven and fire pit quickly.

I have pictures of this very test here: https://imgur.com/a/647Im

The average house fire is 1,100 F / 593 C. We used this blowtorch, which reaches temps of at least 1,200 F because we used it to melt aluminum in the video on our site.

will that suffice? A video might take me a few days since we weren't filming when we did this test

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542209334&sr=8-1&keywords=roofing+torch&dpID=3103D4nMAQL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

With

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMICFQ4/ref=sxts_kp_tr_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=NYalm&pf_rd_r=7KV1MT8QCVRF9GMFY594&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00DMICFQ4&pd_rd_w=5b3jF&pf_rd_i=propane&pd_rd_r=4013d02b-f02a-427d-b777-440aa0d49392&ie=UTF8&qid=1542209378&sr=2

I hadn't soldered ever in my entire life until I took up this hobby. It started with fixing a few switches I spilled beer into maybe 6 months ago, progressed to desoldering a cheap board to make an Ergo Clear TKL for work, and now I've got an ergo dox at my house and I'm slowly planning out my first custom board.

It's not as hard as you think, it requires almost 0 analogue circuitry knowledge which is black magic as far as I'm concerned, and it doesn't cost a lot of money to get started. I bought this with this piece of shit to bust my chops on and watched the EEVBlog tutorials on soldering. I used that soldering station on 2 of my 3 boards as well.

Some people do offer fabrication for a small fee + shipping, usually in the geekhack classifieds

This just came up recently

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/4cn9na/just_ordered_a_planck_what_soldering_guns_does/

Also, I will repeat my reply in that post

I have the stahl tools linked below. It's super cheap but the temps seem pretty inconsistent, and if I had it to do over again I would probably get a little more high-end iron just for consistent temperatures.
http://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-SSVT-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM

I use something very similar to this, except it's 30 watts:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HSXVR3A?ref_=ams_ad_dp_asin_2

That's probably the cheapest thing you'll find. I wouldn't recommend it unless you're going to solder once or twice a year. Believe me-it's a pain to do anything with an iron this cheap, and I'm getting a new one to replace it. I'm tired of buying extra-cheap stuff.

I've used this before, and it's actually not too bad in my opinion: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NUS-Medium-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG6UQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1481862872&sr=8-7&keywords=soldering+iron&refinements=p_89%3AWeller

For $40, these two stations look pretty enticing:

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481862523&sr=8-5&keywords=soldering+iron

https://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-SSVT-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1481862673&sr=8-11&keywords=soldering+iron

Disclaimer- I have never repaired a synth before.

For (bigger) diagonal cutters/pliers, I think the most BIFL are NWS with their "Titan finish". Knipex is a fairly close second, but I like the finish on NWS better. Both can handle hard and medium hard wire (including nails and screws) without a problem, unlike most Klein, Snap-On, etc. The biggest issue is finding NWS in the US. The NWS Fantastico Plus are the best diagonal cutters I've ever laid my hands on.

For precision cutters/pliers, Xuron. They're semi-flush (Xuron call them flush, but I'd still call them semi-flush) micro sheer cutters are great but thankfully don't seem to nick up easily like (Xcelite, Snap-On, etc.) flush cutters do. I like the ones with that are ESD safe, with extra long handles, and the lead retainer best if you're going to be populating a lot of circuit boards. Otherwise, their cheaper models are just as nice.

Wiha precision screwdrivers. I've given this set as a gift before. Wera for the bigger stuff if you need it. Wiha or Wera bits (only larger sizes, I've never found precision bits I've particularly liked).

Klein to fill in gaps.

Bondhus hex keys.

Find a nice used Fluke multimeter on eBay. 89IV go for under $200 and have pretty much identical features to the 189 (believe the 189 mostly just has a bigger inductance/capacitance range). Most universities will have someone tasked with calibration/maintaining the measurement equipment. Make friends and he'll probably calibrate it for you/teach you how/just let you jump in and try. Mine was falling out of the box after UPS drop kicked it to my door, but the calibration was still super boring as nothing needed adjustment.

Hakko or Weller soldering station. Easy to find tips, especially for Weller. WESD51 dropped to $99 on Amazon a couple times in the last year, great time to scoop one up for little more than the analog version. The Stahl Tools one Amazon sells is also good for dirt cheap, but not really BIFL; good luck on finding tips. Metcal is too rich for my blood, but if you ever happen across one that is cheap.

Kester "44" solder, accept no substitute. 63/37 or 60/40, but since the spool will last you half a lifetime, I'd probably go with the 63/37.

I have a love/hate relationship with wire strippers. Something like this usually gets the job done, but sometimes you'll get wire with a strange jacket size and they'll fail. For the automatic kind, this style works ok (especially if you adjust it to what you're stripping), but I usually like this style better; again, as long as the jacket isn't too small and you wire is in the right range. Sadly, I probably most often grab for cheapies like this. The adjustment screw is great if you have to do a lot of a certain size, but I tend to free hand them. It takes quite a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, it's the fastest. Thermal wire strippers are just too pricey for the home user, especially if you want to do PVC, teflon, etc. jacketed wire.

I also have a love/hate relationship with crimpers. I have some crimpers I got for Anderson Powerpole connectors from West Mountain Radio (largely because I couldn't believe how cheap they are-- connector-specific crimpers are usually many times the price they charge) and they were great for the Powerpoles. I even bought some of the other die sets, but I've been less happy with those. I often end up using a similar pair to these or the die on a pair of Klein lineman's pliers for the larger crimps.

The motor driver modules have screw-terminals, so you really just have to solder the wires to the motors :-)


Soldering-> There's something for every budget;

• A simple one like this can work http://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-SSVT-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1452896364&sr=8-9&keywords=SOLDERING+STATION
  
  
• Hakko FX888D-23BY for something a bit better that can last years
  
  
  
  There are also $1-$2 soldering irons, but the cheap ones don't work overly well and the tip does not last long.
  
  When soldering, there are a few important things (always tin the tip, clean the tip, heat the wire and apply solder, don't smear solder from the tip on it). Many electronic books have soldering sections. On Youtube you'll find different tutorials, I can't recommend a English one from the top of my head.
  
  

PACE makes great soldering workstations and Weller is probably the most popular consumer brand. I personally use a cheap soldering iron I got off of Amazon for around $15. I think it works fine and allows me to control the temp. There are much better options out there for more intensive work. I only use mine a couple of times a year and that's usually for hobby electronics work. It's more than adequate for that level of use.

This is the one I have -
http://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-SSVT-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1452181798&sr=8-8&keywords=Soldering+station

If you're planning on doing a lot of de-soldering, you'll either need a de-soldering station OR solder wick. I use copper solder wick and it works great. Do not buy one of those cheap de-solder irons with the red bulb on it or the pen device that sucks out the melted solder. I've used both of those and they're pretty crappy. Solder wick is the way to go. Buy some and you won't regret it.

For replacing surface mount devices, you'll need an SMD rework station and I don't have any suggestions on those.

As far as PC repair kits go, most of those pre-made kits are pretty over priced for what comes in them.

Go to Harbor Freight and buy:

I've used a few of their precision screwdriver sets. This is the one I prefer

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html

Get one of those 4-in-one screwdrivers. The bit socket will also remove case screws.

Get seperate T-15 and T20 screwdrivers. you'll need these for larger items like legacy Compaq case screws and printers.

Wrist strap - there is some debate about this and it depends on the region you live in as to how much static electricity actually builds up on your body. I never wear one and I've never killed any devices. I have heard that there are places where you would be stupid not to wear one.

Grab a telescoping magnetic screw retriever thing. Don't worry, the amount of magnetism in those things will not harm a PC.

Flashlight

Needle nose pliers

Small and Large Side cutters

Cable ties

CAT5 & 6 Cable testers

This should get your started and most of these items are a couple of bucks or less at HF. I know they make crappy tools, but for computer repair they do fine. You're not repairing a diesel tractor-trailer.

I'm sure I've left something out or someone will have some better ideas. Comments and constructive criticism is welcome.

$20 on amazon. I have used mine for a year with 0 problems.

I bought this guy about 4 years ago. Haven't had a single problem with it. Just make sure you keep the tips tinned and clean (do that with any iron) and you'll be good to go. They also have different tips that you can swap out.

Tons of choices out there for soldering irons. I used this one for several years before upgrading to something better: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029N70WM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It looks like that one may be have been replaced by a newer version. The main reason I upgraded was to have a soldering iron that heated up in a under 30 seconds.

Soldering stations have the added perk of being able to fix minor issues with broken electronics that also help to offset the cost down the line. Its well worth it in my opinion.

I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029N70WM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it's awesome for the price.

I like the list of 5 at the beginning. But that's some fancy equipment there. I had to go cheaper.

My soldering iron is this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029N70WM $20 and I'm on the first tip and do SMT all the time and use it almost daily.

And my oscilloscope is this one: http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/dso-nano-v2-p-681.html which cost me $90, and I can take it anywhere.

Even my multimeter was <$10 (DT-830B), and it works FANTASTIC. I had to purchase new leads because the originals eventually wore out, and the leads alone were as much as the multimeter.

Their rework station was a pretty good choice, though.

I guess it depends on your needs, but for me doing development of a large PCB with over 300 components almost entirely SMT with I2C and UART and PWM and 80 pin microcontroller, those tools were sufficient.

1st, heat the component and feed the solder into it.

2nd, If you have a cheap low wattage solding iron, objects with alot of metal will be hard to solder as it wicks the heat away too fast and doesnt get hot enough.

3rd, strip the wire a bit shorter, too much exposure especially without heat shrink allows for shorts

4th for removing solder as per above, sometimes you can just heat up the solder and tap the object against the table and the hot blob will fall off, i recommend though to either have solder wick or a solder sucker.

5th, for solder, use 60/40 lead - tin flux core solder, thinner the easier it is to work with.


soldering can be done cheap and easy but nothing beats having the proper tools.

Practice, practice, practice.

Although i will say when i was younger i also had joints look like that too.


If you continue to do this alot, here are the tools i recommend

Solder Wick

Solder

Iron and Solder Sucker


although if you really do alot of solder, get a good temp controller one like this

Weller Soldering station

Prolly just some solder wick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E48ERU/

Other then that everything else isn't really necessary

It's nice to work under LED lights

Could be a few things but mostly likely the wrong wick for the job. If you get wick from the hardware store it won't work well. That wick is designed usually for plumbing size jobs and higher temps.

For PCB size jobs and SMD components getting the right wick is important just like using the right solder. Something like this may do well for you:

MG Chemicals #3 No Clean Super Wick Desoldering Braid, 0.075" Width x 5' Length, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00424S2C8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Fe5Dzb8XT56FK


I also use this wick and like it:

Aven 17542 Desoldering Wick, 2.5mm Width, 5' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E48ERU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_9g5Dzb43FFNZ3



As far as technique, clean then tin your tip, heat the solder you are removing, re-tin your tip quickly and heavily, apply the braid and your tip on top. Solder should flow into the braid very quickly now that the solder was pre heated on the bottom of the wick and the tinned iron tip on top heats and flows into the braid sucking up the solder from below the wick.

Soldering iron: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M

Edit: most people recommend getting a chisel tip for the soldering iron. Big tips for big jobs, small tips for small jobs. Just having the pencil tip and one chisel will get you by for a long time.

Desoldering braid: https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17542-Desoldering-2-5mm-Length/dp/B003E48ERU/

Desoldering pump: https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

You want both the pump and the braid. Get thin solder for electronics. You should probably use lead-free, but I like good old 60/40.

There are a ton of suggestions on multimeters. The exact right one for you depends on what you eventually want to do. Dave Jone's EEVBlog has some good suggestions. As does Adafruit. Anything Adafruit recommends isn't too far off the mark. If you just want a suggestion: Extech EX330 for $45 https://www.amazon.com/Extech-EX330-Autoranging-Multimeter-Thermometer/dp/B000EX0AE4 Cheaper ones will do the job, but this is a better one. The next step up are True RMS meters for about $100.

It's a pretty damn good deal considering that those wimpy Bernzomatic torches sell for $50 on Amazon.

why would you pay that much for a butane torch?

http://www.amazon.com/Iwatani-Torch-Burner-Professional-Cb-tc-pro/dp/B0027HO3XO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398663434&sr=8-1&keywords=iwatani

or if you wanted to use a propane fuel tank

http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398663495&sr=8-1&keywords=propane+torch

Here is a

• Before
  
  
• During
  
  
• And After
  
  
  
  All of that I did with:
  
  
• this sander
  
  
• Gradually working up to this 320 grit sanding Disc
  
  
• This blowtorch gave it the blue steel finish, once it was the color i wanted i quenched it in oil
  
  
  Let me know if you have any questions, I definitely wouldn't oil quench your stainless putter, but that's the finish mine originally had!

Sorry just a little hand torch like this Bernzomatic TS4000 Trigger Start Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kY-nzb7B0874G

it will turn it to Ash then it will wipe off.

As Aureolin22 said, I doubt the flowerpot would tolerate very many heating and cooling cycles before it broke. Have you considered doing the same thing but lining a small charcoal grill or a cheap steel wok instead?

Serious question: Why is propane not an option? Stores won't sell propane to you, or your parents won't let you?

I ask because you might have good luck making a small propane forge using a spiral flame propane torch, a small coffee can or large soup can, and a 50/50 mix of sand and Plaster of Paris. (refractory cement would probably work as well or better than the sand/plaster mix)

There was a post here on it a short while back. It seemed interesting so I built one myself just to see how well it worked. Turns out, it works pretty good! It won't produce welding temperatures, but it gets plenty hot for forging. It worked even better after I partially closed off the mouth of the forge with three pieces of firebrick. The one I made also has a 9/16" hole drilled through the back so that I can heat round stock up to 1/2" inch diameter anywhere along its length. I have used it twice now for about 30 minutes each time and I still have only used about half of the fuel in the tank. (I started with a full tank just to see how long it would last in one of these.)

If you are interested I can take some pictures of the one I made.

If coal or charcoal is your only option and you want to stay really cheap just dig a little hole and build your fire in the hole with your air pipe poking in from the side. (assuming the powers that be at home won't lose their minds over you digging a hole and you have a yard to dig in.)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008ZA09?pc_redir=1397090166&robot_redir=1

That's what I have. I've used a Newport torch as well which was nice for how small it was but it constantly needed to be refilled and took much longer to heat up my nail

I have a bernzomatic ts4000 that can be used for mapp or propane. Has a decent sized swirl tip on it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008ZA09?cache=1e7ae5e33b54b847bd2ca8af21498496&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405599047&sr=8-1

Sorry about the huge link. I'm on my phone.

I also have an extension hose I found at home depot for $17. I love that thing.

If I wanted to make a propane forge could I use this propane head ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008ZA0C/ref=pd_aw_sbs_2?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1 ) and just attach it to the side of the forge or do I need something like a trigger start torch ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008ZA09/ref=pd_aw_sbs_3?pi=SY115&simLd=1 )?

I know this is a dumb question but I'm on a budget for my starter setup

Hard to say... I personally enjoy doing little electronics projects from time to time, so in my case, I already had a soldering station on hand, and I use it probably once a month or so for various things. Chances are if you haven't needed a soldering iron in your life up to this point, that you will rarely have a use for one later on.

While it's certainly easy to spend a decent amount of money on a nice soldering station, a cheap iron like this one on Amazon would be fine for jobs like this. A small spool of solder will run you about $4 dollars. You could find similar prices to these at Radio Shack as well.

I suggest this:

http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-Practical-Soldering-Project-Kit/dp/B0002LUAL6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406761425&sr=8-4&keywords=learn+to+solder+kit

It's a very good kit, and will give you plenty of practice before you solder your Poker 2. No frills, and will give you plenty of practice for through hole soldering.

Combine this with a practical, but good quality soldering station:

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1406762091&sr=1-3&keywords=soldering+iron

A desoldering pump:

http://www.amazon.com/Sucking-Vacuum-Desoldering-Solder-Remover/dp/B005GIPKOW/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1406762167&sr=1-3&keywords=desoldering+pump

And some solder:

http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-AT-31604-60-40-Solder-Ounces/dp/B00030AP48/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1406762345&sr=1-1&keywords=solder

To learn, there are plenty of Youtube videos, I recommend you also solder the Elenco kit, then desolder everything to get a feel for how the desoldering pump works (it's super easy, you can't really screw it up). Then, solder it together one more time for extra practice.

All together, about $66 bucks. Add in the cost of the switches, and you're looking at a little over 100. Still a bunch cheaper than the Poker 2 from Massdrop ($143.50), and you've just learned a life skill. For me, that's totally worth it, but then again, I'm an engineer, and learning useful skills is what my entire profession is based on.

---

EDIT: Get this soldering kit instead:

http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-SP3B-Practical-Soldering-Project/dp/B0002LUALG/ref=pd_tcs_compl_t_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=00RQRQTCJ767WDS4D7KV

Cheaper and has more soldering points. The other one has a shitty speaker which doesn't add much to the soldering lesson, but drives the cost up.

If you need to solder on a pcb you'll want a temperature controlled soldering station, other essentials are rosin core solder, some flux to apply before soldering, and a helping hand to hold the pcb/component and wire in place when soldering. I leave my soldering station at a little less than 350 when I'm tinning wires and soldering on a pcb. Wipe excess solder off the iron, heat up the spot you want to solder to with the wire in place, then apply solder to the wire when the flux has smoked off, it should flow into the joint. You don't want to keep heat on a pcb for too long as it can damage components on the board. Make sure you tin the tip/s of the soldering iron with solder before and often during use, or the tips will oxidize and refuse to tin until you scrape the oxides off with a razor knife. Typically a problem at high temps, around 300C solder will melt and oxides form very slowly and the tip will stay hot without needing a retin for a 5-10 minutes. I usually set my temp on max when I first turn it on and hold a bit of solder to the tip and then turn it down when the solder melts. Saves a few minutes of warm up between use.

If you need to heat up a larger surface area (like a battery terminal) for tinning or soldering it helps to bump up the heat - sanding a large surface also will help. Steel and other metals may require use of a corrosive flux made specially for that.

That's about all I know XD

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

> Other stuff:

> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment

> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

• Jumpers, though it's since been recommended to me that I just use solid-core 22 AWG wire so I bought this wire kit and these automatic strippers
  
• Breadboards, both self-adhesive and solderable, and maybe some mini ones of each type.
  
• LEDs (RGB and single-color)
  
• A good selection of potentiometers and trimpots, both slide and radial, plus knobs for them if applicable
  
• More buttons of varying types, both clicky and quiet momentary ones (here's a quiet button that's nice)
  
• A good multimeter and maybe some extra probes
  
• Some power supplies, both 12v and 5v. Here's one that's supposed to do both simultaneously, but you'll need a molex plug (which Sparkfun inexplicably doesn't carry) unless you want to strip the end. You might also want some barrel jacks, and this cheap extension cable provides the male end.
  
• A variable power supply would probably also be very useful, but I haven't yet invested in one of those so I can't make a recommendation at this time.
  
• A good selection of resistors
  
• Alligator test clips, plus some with pigtails for prototyping on a breadboard with components that won't fit in those little holes
  
• Some heat shrink tubing and a heat gun that you should only use on the lowest setting for this purpose. When selecting heat shrink tubing, pay attention to it's shrink ratio and what size it'll end up being when you're done.
  
• A soldering kit and some solder. Note that all solders aren't created equal but the one I linked is supposed to be decent.
  
• If you get into larger gauge soldering (for home or automotive wiring), a propane torch will be handy, but you can get something like that for $20 with a propane tank at your local hardware store
  
• Some project boxes

I've been using this stuff, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030AP48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_wFUozb8CNSSVY

That's really nice. What else would I need? Just solder and a vice?

Gotcha, I bought Alpha Fry AT-31604 60-40 Rosin Core Solder (4 Ounces)

What's the best way to clean it up, any specific cleaning material or will some simple household approach work?

Do you mean something like this pencil solderer and this solder?
I've never done any soldering before so I'm not quite sure what I need to do. Would watching guides on youtube be enough for a simple soldering job like this?

It's a pencil type iron. I think that's what you're asking for.
Also, is this what I should be using?

This is what I've been using for a while. I generally like it, but it might have been a tad too big for this job. I really do think my main problem was pre-tinning both contacts before attaching a component.

thinking about picking up the AOYUE 936 and this solder. will i need flux as well?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00030AP48/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thanks for sending the video along. I never knew what that little syringe was for until now.

I'm pretty sure the solder I'm using is for electric work. Here is what I've been using. I'll admit I pretty much never clean the solder tip which probably is having an impact on the ability of connections to stay put.

I started with 40/60 rosin core and then ran low so I bought the only thing I could get, this crap. I now know that rosin core was a mistake and that lead free isn't really popular.

The quality of solder is important. Don't skimp out. Example of good solder that would fit your needs.

What copper? Something like this?

Kester 83-4000-0000 Solder Pocket Pack, 0.031" Wire Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJNQ

Here's a super cheap solder pencil: Link

and some solder

Good quality adjustable irons can be quite a bit more expensive, but this should work for a simple cable swap.

Solder wire

No flux and $8 iron. This was incredibly frustrating to do. The connections are solid but look like total shit. I was afraid of accidentally getting solder touching two pads since this is so tiny. How do you guys do it? The videos make it look so easy. -_-


EDIT: Thanks everyone. I ordered some flux and a new soldering station online, rush ordered so it'll be here tomorrow. My ESCs and motors arrive today and tomorrow too so trying to get everything together so I can maiden this this weekend. I soldered everything on my 450 but the soldering pads were huge in comparison and most of what I did was adding bullet connectors to the pads. I've been flying it for months, no flux on it either.

• Soldering Station: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBQ41NS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Flux: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OC0E5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Solder: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  I'll post the re-do afterwards.

63/37 Rosin Core, No Clean, 0.031 solder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJOU

If you plan on soldering again in the future I'd pick up a Hakko FX888D: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M. Otherwise there are a few cheaper stations that would work.

https://www.amazon.com/Kester-No-Clean-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJOU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469107079&sr=8-3&keywords=63%2F37+flux+solder

Is that a good solder to use if I'm soldering switches for my Planck? Also do I need a flux pen and should I get better tips for my iron?

I just got the Hakko fx888 station if that helps.

Does this look right for the Solder?

https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-8800-Activated-No-Clean-Diameter/dp/B00068IJOU/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1494117583&sr=1-3&keywords=kester+solder+63+37

there are about 5-6 other components that I could still replace in the horizontal linearity circuit and I will probably do this. I do think it will solve the issue but I will likely try because of how much effort and money I have invested into this set. I love the set other than the geometry problems and the geometry issue isn't really that noticeable in 3D games. I don't notice it at all when playing Super Mario 64 and N64 looks great on the JVC D201 set. Also, keep in mind that when you are dealing with geometry issues, you only need to focus on the horizontal and vertical linearity circuits which contain 20-30 aluminum electrolytic capacitors combined. Replacing capacitors isn't hard at all with the right tools. I did make sure to watch a ton of videos on how to solder and desolder and I bought my tools based on recommendations in Youtube videos and on several electronics forums.
 
I use this soldering iron and it works great, https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hakko+soldering+iron&qid=1556333443&s=gateway&sr=8-3
 
I use this solder sucker and it is also great. You just have to make sure to push out the old solder with the pump after every 1-2 connections, https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=engineer+solder+sucker&qid=1556333566&s=gateway&sr=8-3
 
I recommend have a desoldering wick as backup as well. Use a no-clean solder wick of 2.0mm for general desoldering. As far as flux, flux paste is easier to use as it doesn't drip. The AMTECH NC-559-V2-TF no-clean tacky solder flux is good. Any no clean liquid flux from Kester or MG Chemicals will work fine as well. Definitely get some wire cutters for cutting solder and cutting component leads.
 
I use this solder (I recommend lead solder with a rosin core and also no clean) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Any time you work on a CRT, you need to discharge the anode cap. This is very easy to do with the proper tools. For example, you could use a flat head screwdriver and an alligator clip wire to do this. You connect one end to the screw driver, the other end to a ground point on the CRT chassis (i.e. the metal frame around the CRT), slide the screwdriver under the rubber anode cap with the CRT unplugged until you hit the metal connector in the metal. Rub the screwdriver on this metal connector for about 5 seconds and it will be discharged. Retrotech on Youtube has a video on how to do this. I wouldn't say you need $80 electrical gloves to do this but at least wear a rubber or leather glove or both and only use one hand. Retrotech actually has quite a few videos on how to work on CRTs.
 
Overall, doing basic things like replacing capacitors in CRTs isn't that hard, you just have to spend the time to educate yourself, be patient and it will click. If you have any questions, just ask me or anyone else on here. If you ever work on any power circuit capacitors, make sure to discharge them with a high wattage and ohm rated resistor but using insulated pliers to hold the resistor legs to the capacitor legs for about 5 seconds to discharge the cap before you remove it.

I don't care for rosin core, personally. It smells nice, but it burns, leaving scorched black particles on your joints, and it leaves an ugly (though protective) residue, which is tough to clean, especially if you leave it for a while.

I much prefer Kester No-Clean, which cleans up very easily with a drop or two of isopropanol.

This is what I use for all of my thru-hole stuff.

Surprising! That's the first good thing I've hear about the K tips! Sounds like a lot of people toss em or basically never use them after getting some chisel tips.

As for solder, I was originally going to order some off Aliexpress, but it sounds like that's a terrible idea. Kester 245 No Clean 63/37 in a 0.031" (0.8mm) sounds like a good balance for genera purpose solder. I'm afraid 0.5mm will be too narrow for soldering THT, splices, etc.

So this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJOU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AJ3PYHDIZANTK

[Soldering Iron I use] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJNKQ8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fp4PDb7MMWHSY)

[Tip Cleaner] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076X1NYBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.p4PDbBFGG9GA)


[Flux Core Wire] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Sr4PDb7JX44SZ)

0.6 to 0.8 mm (0.031 inch)

Can't go wrong with kester 60/40. 63/37 is slightly better but 60/40 is fine.

https://www.amazon.com/KESTER-SOLDER-32117-24-6040-0027-Diameter/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=solder&qid=1572723893&sr=8-6

I'm using Kester solder with flux in it, is that fine? This is what I soldered my Ergodox Infinity with.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJPO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the solder I use :)

This, this and this should get you started.

Maybe in USA/GB.
For me, it’s $60


Edit: now $90
amazon.fr

BUT I ordered it even if it was 3x more expensive and I don’t regret that choice

Okay, so what you're saying is you do not necessarily need additional flux if you're using rosin core? Makes sense. Getting a pen sounds like a good idea here then, and will probably be much cheaper. Thanks!

I am thinking of buying these two rolls of solder:

Kester 44: 63/37 .031 diameter (For general soldering)

Kester 44: 63/37 .020 diameter (For SMD's)

& Kester 951 in a 12mL pen

Would these be suitable?

Continuing this thought process, I just got this iron and [this](
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJWC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) solder in the mail the other day and they've treated me incredibly well. If that's out of our price range then I suggest getting only the solder and going for a cheaper iron.

Don't even think about getting a non-temperature controller iron. They get way too hot and destroy your tip, making it impossible to get proper heat transfer. Weller makes some good irons, but that $40 one you linked is not at all one of them. That $100 Hakko is very nice, as are the knockoffs of their older models, like this $60 937+ and this $33 936.

At the low end, I got this $18 soldering kit for my travel bag recently, the tweezers, stand and solder sucker are extremely cheap, but the iron is almost as good as my station. Swap the cone tip out for the small chisel tip they send, get a brass sponge to clean your tip, and you're good to go.

If affordable really means affordable, what about https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-AO936-AOYUE-Soldering-Station/dp/B000VINMRO

I've been using my Aoyue 936 for a few years now. Heats up quickly, and uses Hakko tips.

Fairly light usage, but it's worked well for me, and hard to beat for $36.

I have one of these Aoyue 936 irons, which is a knock off of a Hakko model. It has worked well, and the Hakko tips fit it.

But you can get even cheaper temperature controlled irons if you look around. I've seen used 40W Wellers go on ebay for ~$15.

Aoyue makes a lot of decent cheap stations that can take standard Hakko tips.

This article recommends a Hakko 936 for about $80:

• http://mbientlab.com/content/build-great-lab-hardware-startup-or-your-personal-use
  
  This looks similar for $45:
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-936-AOYUE-Soldering-Station/dp/B000VINMRO/
  
  Does anyone own either one of these?
  

This is a clone of the hako 936. I've had one (not this same brand, mine is yuiha) for going on 5 years now. I also have a few weller soldering stations and I will be completley honest, my 936 clone runs just as well as the wellers for my hobby use. I've now given 8 of them as gifts and have not had a single one go bad.

Aoyue 936
I use this and love it. Super solid and excellent customer service.

I would recommend this one (Aoyue 936, $45). I have it and am really happy with it. Heats up nice and quick, and adjustable, it's all steel and durable plastic, looks and feels nice. And you can buy 10 tips for like 5 bucks if you want.

Best value soldering iron is probably this. It's a clone of a more famous model that works very well, and should serve you for anything you need until you need a reflow oven or hot air station.

Is the Aoyue soldering iron any good?

I'm thinking of getting the Aoyue 936 for my first soldering iron since it's cheaper compared to the FX 888D and I don't think I'll do many soldering jobs to justify the price tag.

I know Hakko and Weller are the recommend brands for a good soldering iron, but they just cost too much.

The first one you pointed to provides a constant wattage setting, what you want is a constant temperature soldering station/iron, so that's not what you should look for. (its better to just get a "dumb" 25 watt iron instead at that point)

When I said Weller or Hakko I meant the robust WES51 or the FX888, but if those are outside of your price range, thats fine, the ubiquitous Hakko 936 has a ton of clones which are very cheap and some of them do actually have decent quality (see video discussing the topic, you might also want to google "936,"
936 clone," "936d," etc for more info).

I personally know some factory people due to my line of work and there seem to be 2 noteworthy brands of clone manufacturer, Aoyue and YiHua, Aoyue is the more premium brand and YiHua is the mass produced brand, apparently both are commonly used by factory workers and they are quite good because factory workers also need good equipment due to the nature of their trade.

I would look for a Aoyue 936 clone if I were you, just get this or this if you must use amazon, or search "aoyue" in fleabay.

A desoldering braid is the way to go. Not very reusable, but very effective and easy to use.

My WhiteFox recently started getting chatter on the R and the 2 keys, so from what I've read it seems like I need to desolder the switches and put new ones in? So for desoldering, do the Engineer SS-02 and this desoldering braid seem good, or is anything else someone might recommend for desoldering? Also wondering for putting the new switches in, if there's any specific size or type of solder I should get?

Thanks!

edit: figured out the solder, but what would be a good flux? what are the different types for and why is flux important?

Sorry I'm a little late to the conversation, but when desoldering a component, this stuff is what we use in the business for a clean removal.

Here is a short build inventory for people who may want to perform this mod in the future:

• 1x 0.5oz - 2oz tube of Krytox GPL 205 Grease. This will last you a long time.
  
• 1x Victorinox Multi-Tool Oil or any plastic-safe, high viscosity oil.
  
• 1x 100pc bag of 68g Cherry MX compatible springs
  
• 100x Plate mount Cherry MX Clear keyswitches. You could also buy a KUL ES-87 with Cherry MX Clears, but just be sure to have extras in case of damage during the modification process.
  
• 1x KUL ES-87 of any Keyswitch/color (black or smoke black) variety.
  
  Lube and replace switches based on WFD's guides. Get two small paintbrushes and a pair of forceps or tweezers to help manipulate the components during the lubrication process. You should also whip up a couple of these guys. They make opening the switches a hell of a lot easier.
  
  This was only my second time desoldering so I learned a lot along the way. Quality, flux-treated desoldering braid and a temperature controlled soldering iron with a chisel tip was the most reliable method I found to desolder. I used the Hakko FX888D soldering iron and station with a 2.4 mm x 14.5 mm Hakko chisel tip. I used Chemtronics' Chem-Wick desoldering braid to remove the solder from the plated through holes on the PCB. You have to take extra care when using desoldering braid not to heat up other components on the board, but with enough practice you will be a pro!

I do not know if he got you the links but here they are all on Amazon. The funniest thing is that I have it all ready for when I get enough money for this and the Hakko FX-888D.

Solder is the Kester 44

Solder sucker

Desoldering wick

Hakko cleaning tip wire station

I personally have had really shitty luck with using a solder sucker combined with cheap solder.

You might want to try using some desoldering wick - I've had decent results with this stuff. Even if you don't want to try this, you should get some anyways because there are things a pump cannot save you from.

Same but I use this for the Smokey Joe, and this for the big fires.

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34/ref=pd_sim_469_14?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00282LP34&pd_rd_r=DMADQDKGYX3HFY7SJ2VT&pd_rd_w=tcTSD&pd_rd_wg=CRfhJ&psc=1&refRID=DMADQDKGYX3HFY7SJ2VT

This with plastic https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-500G-Propane-Torch/dp/B00282LP34/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542335405&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=roofing+torch&dpPl=1&dpID=3103D4nMAQL&ref=plSrch

I used map for my first couple but just upgraded to a weed burner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00282LP34

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00282LP34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1

Wow, I've been doing that for a while. Thanks for confirming it, good thing I mentioned it. I'd really like to get a good hakko station with auto shutoff and variable temp at some point or another. What would you recommend as a good starting point? I'm looking to do mostly bga package replacement, I've seen people using a wedge shaped tip to remove the balls of solder once the chip is removed, from the grid. I could get the same tip for my iron as well ( I've got this one https://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-SSVT-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM) but I think it needs a good feedback control (mine has none at all, let not the temp dial confuse you, there's no feedback regulation just a pot to change set the voltage blindly) to keep that large wedge at proper temp.

I'm in the US so this is 120V, but 3 years ago I upgraded from a Radio Shack branded iron to this guy:

http://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-SSVT-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1463154858&sr=1-1&keywords=stahl+soldering+iron

I also got these tips as the one they gave me was not fine enough:

http://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-SSRT-Soldering-STSSVT/dp/B0029N91Q0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1463154858&sr=1-2&keywords=stahl+soldering+iron

I've done quite a bit of repair and modification with it, not the best iron out there by any means but for the price a great entry point for beginners and more advanced users.

Unless you are doing wire soldering (headphones, cables, speakers) then that iron is fine but if you are doing anything electronic/circut you should look into one with adjustable temperature, something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_s-z4xb7VZ46BF would be a good starter or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_e.z4xbZC5H7VV as a bare minimum

I replaced an old, crappy Radio Shack iron with a cheap Chinesium station like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Stahl-Tools-SSVT-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=sr_1_10?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1520651277&sr=1-10&keywords=Soldering+Station
Wait for a sale and you can get it and extra tips for $20 and it works fine for occasional use.
Hakko's great, but a bit of overkill.

You'd be surprised a) how easy it is to use Arduino, and b) how helpful the online community is. The nice thing about Arduino is that the complexity remains the same, regardless of how many sensors you add, provided you have enough expansion breakout board.

For a first step, I would buy a starter kit and a cheap soldering iron and a half-decent multimeter and just start making little projects, like light sensors and temperature sensors and making those projects both wireless and online.

After that, it's just a matter of interfacing the larger, higher-voltage components (like pumps and valves) with the lower-voltage Arduino. This is easily accomplished with a relay, which is also useful for electrical isolation between the two subsystems.

Start small. I would recommend making an Arduino into a timer, and then using the timer to control a pump. Then add an online API that allows you to adjust the on/off time of the pump. Then add water level sensors, then temperature sensors, etc.

Also, make sure you prototype everything on a small scale first, like the guy in the video was doing on his desk. It will save you a lot of money if you mess anything up.

Once you develop the skills necessary to build your smart-system, I cannot stress how important a good, detailed electrical diagram is. It doesn't matter if it's professional-quality, or done with pencil and a ruler. It will save you so much time.

Soldering Iron

Solder Sucker

Solder just be aware this does have lead in it, so wear gloves and a mask if possible when working with it. it has a small enough diameter that makes it quite easy to do work with switches though

Look up "soldering station" on amazon and pick one you think has the features you want. I bought this one, which fits my needs, is higher quality than what I learned on, has a temperature changer (higher is not better), and is pretty cheap. Hope this helps.

Any particular recommendations? I've been looking at this $20 Stahl Tools SSVT, 40 watt one or this $30 Aoyue 469, 60watt. Are these just cheapo irons?

I need one for fixing small electronics like a headset and maybe working on a raspberry pi.

Is there another option where I can purchase it in less quantity? Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-14000-1-7-Ounce-Nokorode-Regular/dp/B000G33PAI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1469048395&sr=8-4&keywords=paste+flux

Also, the solder wick I'm using says it has flux in it. Is it the same quality as the paste flux?

Maybe the tip of your iron is Oxidized. If you dont have a properly tinned tip it will have trouble transferring the heat.

Take a bit of solder and try to stick it to the end of your Iron, if it smokes and the solder falls off and you have a dirty tip that is not shiny all this means its oxidized.

You want to polish the tip and then fully retin it. I used a metal polish on a crappy iron to polish the tip and then wrapped the tip with coils of solder and turned it on. When it melts onto the tip you just roll the tip around to get it coated well and then you will have a tinned tip on the iron.

The correct way to remove solder from a pad is to use Solder Wick:
https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17542-Desoldering-2-5mm-Length/dp/B003E48ERU/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1510916192&sr=8-8&keywords=Solder+wick

thanks. something like the Hakko CHP CSP-30-1 Wire Stripper, 30-20 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity should work right?


solder wick

fume extractor

All good?

I think its pretty funny nobody knows for $2 on Amazon you can order some de-soldering braid used by electronics repair people and never have this problem again.
https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17542-Desoldering-2-5mm-Length/dp/B003E48ERU/

Soldering is a good skill to have, in general.

And if you're careful, there's not much you can screw up.

Watch a YT tutorial or two and you'll be good to go.

For tools you'll eventually want what is in this kit, but probably not that kit itself.

I bought a Weller WLC100 40 watt kit (definitely get a norrower ST2 or ST3 tip as well), a solder sucker tool (you can use desoldering wick, but the solder sucker is worth the money), a Helping Hands and 60/40 rosin-core solder.

In addition, I like using tip tinner, a wire tip cleaner like this because I found that using a wet sponge reduced the tip temperature too much.

Also, solder fumes are not great so only do this is in a well-ventilated area. I like to use a small fan to blow the fumes away from my face.

The only thing you'll need to do is desolder/clip the existing swtich and wire up the replacement. You don't have to mess with the pots or caps unless you want to.

Phostenix Tele diagram page.

edit: fixed solder type

I've been soldering for 20 years and I still can't quite get it down all the time.

Take an evening, beer up and go watch the PACE International soldering tutorial. Get a good soldering iron from a local electronics shop or Amazon; I like the little $30 Weller "student" irons because they're adjustable and have good tip variety for cheap. SMT soldering needs two basic kinds of tip: point and a flat. With some practice, you can easily drag-solder gull-wing packages like the Atmel here.

You also don't seem to have

• ruined the board
  
• actually caused damage to the gull-wing
  
  A small amount of solder wick or just GENTLY dragging your iron across the pins will get the bridged pins cleaned up, just make sure to add some flux when you solder again, if your solder doesn't have flux baked in. Then, the big glob of solder should just pop off the board -- it isn't wetted to anything Wick off the board.
  
  I will agree with whoever said you're using too much solder: you're dripping. That's too much. The PACE videos will get you oriented in the right direction as to when to stop.
  
  Solder wick is cheap to the point Amazon demands you buy it with something else. Get some. It's like a towel for solder. Heat, soak, and repeat.
  

you can just use those guys here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E48ERU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are cheap and very effective. Just place a bit of the tape on top of the junction that you wish to desolder and heat it up with your soldering iron. The tape is made of copper so it will suck up all the old solder. Works for me!

I've never soldered before, but I was embarrassed by how ridiculously easy it is. I still practiced on a $10 kit first.

Soldering kit

Tip cleaner

Thin solder wire

Solder wick optional, but way easier than a vacuum for a beginner.

Practice kit optional but nice for initial confidence boosting

That solder should be just fine. The soldering iron tip should really look like this: http://bolty.net/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/tinned_tip.jpg It turns black from oxidation, and if you don't keep it clean and tinned with solder it will turn black very quickly. I don't mean rust, it's a different type of oxidation. What do you use to clean it? Wet sponge? I really like the brillo pad things: http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Soldering-Cleaner-sponge-needed/dp/B005C789EU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397104627&sr=8-1&keywords=brass+soldering+iron+cleaner

You can get just the pads for cheaper I think but shipping will get you usually. It's possible you can buy actual cleaning scourers if they're made of the right material. If the oxidation is really bad you may have to use something a little more abrasive, but you also might need to just try a new tip.

If it didn't work initially that should tell you the method is wrong. Watch some of the videos on soldering to see what it should look like when you fully wet something with solder. The wire will wick the solder up like a sponge.

My goal is to try and get a job (I've never had one before, and as this is the summer between my 2nd and 3rd years of college, I think its about time I get one). So far I've been tracking down one at a music store. My hobby is playing and learning instruments, as well as repairing them, so the employee discount at this store would be incredibly useful to me. I've followed up several times, and just recently I called again and they said that they have me on their list. So hopefully that means I'll eventually get the job.

465

Here's something less than $5-$10

Here's something that is in the $5-$10 range.

Good luck on your goal. I took up that goal awhile back, made moderate progress and then loss sight of it in the hectic mess of schoolwork, sports, and clubs. That's not to say I'm mean now, it just means I made progress, and haven't made anymore. Hopefully I can pick that back up soon! I'm sure you'll be fine!

30 W is definitely hot enough. I have a switchable 15/30w and the 20 will cook sensitive components.

Once its hot check the tip with pliers to ensure it's screwed in snug. Cleaning with a sponge will work. If it's all crusty and black it won't transfer heat correctly. But I prefer to use copper mesh. Something like THIS

But I just use copper Chore Boy stuffed in a small sample size jelly jar.

Get a brass shavings cleaner. I don't like the wet sponge method
https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Soldering-Cleaner-sponge-needed/dp/B005C789EU

If you plan on taking it further than just simple mods a couple times a year, I recommend spending a little more if you can. You don't have to go crazy either. I know that a lot of people go the Hakko or Weller route, but I've been very happy with my Aoyue 9378. Here is the Aoyue 937+ which is cheaper (45w vs 60w and a couple other things). Like others have said, get some wick and grab one of these over the sponge crap.

EDIT: Oh, and pick up some flux. There are flux fans and some that use it sparingly, but just pick it up.

Also, this goes much further than just installing a battery holder, but check out Voultar's videos to watch some technique. He's also a liberal flux / No Clean user and you'll see why.

Looks like you've started down the road to learning how to make your own cables, and you need some guidance while you're practicing.


This page has a nice picture of good, bad and ugly results. Yours are not bad for a beginner but ... ugly.


This set of search results will provide lots of information. Read as much as you can.


Here's what I use for guitar cable soldering tools. The links are for explanation. You don't have to get them at Amazon. An electronics store will have them. You may decide it's less expensive to buy the patch cables. But, if you are a do it yourself type, the tools will pay for themselves.

Weller 25W iron Get some extra chisel tips. They get destroyed quickly by noobs.


Helping hands


Wire stripper


Solder sucker


Brass wool solder iron cleaner


63/37/resin core .6mm solder

Thank you for the reply, /u/naturalorange!

• definitely hit the connector with some 150 grit sand paper! =)
  
• i'm using 60/40 solder with 2% flux, so I got that part covered
  
• this was the big problem, imo (along with the shiny plating on the so239). between this and roughing up the so239's surface, I was able to get a good solid solder joint
  
  And I agree with the copper/brass mesh cleaner: I bought this one when I placed the order for the new iron. Bonus iron holder, too =)

I know this is over your budget but I think it's worth it http://www.amazon.com/Updated-Aoyue-Digital-Soldering-absorber/dp/B006FA481G/ref=sr_sp-atf_image_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407708595&sr=1-3&keywords=aoyue+soldering+station

Aoyue makes a few similar rework stations for a lot less money than Hakko or others, like this one: Aoyue 968A+ SMD Digital Hot Air Rework Station. I've found their irons to be nicer than the lower end Wellers for the same price, and almost as nice as the much more expensive Hakko stuff. Just a quick tip for anyone who might find one occasionally useful, but doesn't need one daily.

>a reflow oven costs a lot of money, and a homemade one might burn down the house. A frying pan on the other hand >.>

You can get a decent hot air rework station (with soldering iron) for under $200.


https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-968A-Digital-Rework-Station/dp/B006FA481G/

Fantastic value at this price.

But I also do suggest, this Aoyue 968A+ SMD Digital Hot Air Rework Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FA481G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ql6myb8E4YVGK

Its what i use currently and for the price it's hard to beat with desoldering. I regret getting my hakko after I got this.

Consider [this Aoyue soldering station] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006FA481G). It's really great for the price. I've been using one for a couple of years for through-hole and surface mount work, and I've been very happy with it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FA481G/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've used both the WESD51 and a few Hakko stations, they're both great. Personally I have the WESD51 because its easier for me to get tips, but either way hakko and weller and both pretty good, definitely go for the digital if you can afford it. Also I'd get a few spare tips and a tip cleaner along with some no clean flux. But I wouldn't get just a reflow, unless all you do is SMD, which you can totally do with a slightly steadier hand and an iron.

I typically go over all of the pads with a flux pen

Then for every set of pads, I solder a small amount on one side.

Then I get all of the diodes ready and with a pair of tweezers in one hand and the soldering iron in the other, I hold them in place and reheat the solder and contacts to tack them down on one side.

After they're all soldered down on one side, I put the tweezers down and grab the solder wire and solder down the remaining sides.

This build guide for the Helidox actually shows pretty well.

https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/corne-cherry/doc/buildguide_jp.md#%E3%83%80%E3%82%A4%E3%82%AA%E3%83%BC%E3%83%89

You can, http://www.amazon.com/SRA-Soldering-Flux-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B008OC0E5M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1450382622&sr=8-3&keywords=soldering+flux

And yes, most solder has flux as well.

Soldering is one of those tasks where it really pays off to invest a little bit more in your tools at the beginning. /u/1-11 mentioned the Weller WLC100 - I second this recommendation. I've had one for almost 8 years and it's never let me down, though I bought a nicer iron a few years ago (Aoyue 968A+) and the Weller hasn't seen much use since.

The kit you posted is probably not very high quality. I would steer away from it and spend the extra money to get something you know will perform well for years. You do want some of the things from that kit, though:

• Solder sucker
  
  
• Solder wick
  
  
• Tweezers
  
  
• Various tips
  
  
• Flux (I use a flux pen similar to this one for most things as it's a little easier to apply)
  
  A good way to practice is to get some perf board (the tan-colored breadboard-looking PCB prototyping boards), a pack of random wires and/or resistors/capacitors, and just start soldering things in. SparkFun sells some good kits for beginner soldering, and they have a few good tutorials as well.
  
  Always use flux, always tin your wires before soldering them to anything, and always hold the iron on the solder long enough for it to completely flow. Learn how to use solder wick and you'll be able to repair just about anything. Finally, always tin your tips before storing the iron - don't want the tips to corrode!

Kester 67/37 0.03" is what I've seen recommended before several times.

It's only slightly thinner than the 0.6mm stuff. I bought a very similar one, because I don't live in the US. It's a good thickness for keyboards. Flows nicely.

That 1lb spool is big enough to last you a lifetime if you're not doing a lot of soldering, you can get smaller quantities.

I recommend a Tekpower TP13 off Amazon. It's a cheap clone of a popular Weller design and I've had one for almost three years now that I still favor over my Hakko for some PCB work. The sponge is enough for a small amount of work but you'll eventually want to go to wire for better tip cleaning. Good solder can also make a big difference in the quality of your work; I use exclusively Kester 63/37 leaded flux core for all of my soldering work with the exception being their "no clean" formula for more sensitive work.

I'd toss it and buy a small amount of Kester to try. You'll want the big $25 roll after you use it. It is absolutely worth the money. Bad solder is garbage and can make your job really hard.

What solder were you using? Either rosin core or lead free? The percentage also matters. I personally use Kester 44 Rosin core solder 63/37 from amazon. I never had any issues.

I was in the same boat a few months ago. Got this one for $16 on amazon! https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-GHG1500A-Temperature-Nozzle-Attachments/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=heat+gun&qid=1551148557&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The following are the parts I'll be purchasing for this build. I think I've covered everything, but as this will be my first custom loop if someone could give it the once over and make sure I'm not forgetting something it would be GREATLY appreciated!

Link to current build

Item | Vendor | Price | Quantity |
---|---|----|----|----
[CE 280](https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-ce-280-dual","EK-CoolStream CE 280) | EK | 75.99 | 1 |
[PE 360](https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple#ow_alert_box","EK-CoolStream PE 360) | EK | 79.99 | 1 | 1
Corsair SP 120 2-pack | Amazon | 27.99 | x2 |
EK 140 Revo D5 | EK | 163.99 | 1 | text
EK Supremacy EVO | EX | 78 | 1 | text
EK Pump Bracket | EX | 13.49 | 1 | text
MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk EK| Newegg | 569.99 | 1 | text
ATX Bridging Plug | EX | 2.49 | 1 | text
Alphacool Silicon Bending Cord | Amazon | 8.49 | 1 | text
EK-CSQ Plug | EK | 3.49 | x2 | text
EK-AF 6mm M-M Extender | EK | 2.99 | x2 |
EK Ball Valve | EK | 19.99 | 1 | text
EK X Splitter | EK | 8.99 | 1 | text
Heat Gun | Amazon | 17.71 | 1 |
Step Bit | Amazon | 10.85 |1| text
Pipe Cutter | Amazon | 7.99 | 1 | text
EK-HDC 16mm Gold Fitting | EK | 8.99 | x10 |
EK PETG 12/16 Tube | EK | 8.49 | x4 |

Hand vise: IRWINQUICK-GRIPOne-Handed Bar Clamp, Heavy-Duty, 6", 1964711 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VND4X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_SKWbD2mBTHRZ9

Steel plates: Round Hot Rolled Steel Plate 1/4" x 4" Diameter Circle (Pack of 2!) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YWBU1P2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Mdufzb3Q4YDXK

Epoxy: J-B Weld 8297 HighHeat 550 Degree Epoxy Putty Stick - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PP26RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ieufzbQD017AS

And turns out my stove is way easier to heat up the steel plates. But if you're interested in a heat gun I bought this one: Genesis GHG1500A Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pfufzbAPGCZ11


Sorry about the formatting, I'm on mobile

Like 20 bucks or so.
http://www.amazon.ca/Genesis-GHG1500A-Dual-Temperature-Green-1-Pack/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421787663&sr=1-8&keywords=heat+gun

You use, like, a big heat gun on the whole board all at once?

What's the failure rate of the scrap parts? I'd think the heating process would have to be more delicate than that, but maybe not.

Hi all, my goal is to construct a fluid bed roaster capable of roasting a half-pound of coffee per go.

For the motor, I'm looking at this electric leaf blower, and for the heating element, I'm looking to dissect this heat gun.

I'll use a pyrex baking tube, and a cocktail shaker to cap it off at the base. And then some machining magic to couple it to the mounting pipe.

Does it seem like this will get hot enough to roast a 1/2 pound?

I'm trying to upgrade from my current popper setup which can roast a max of 60 grams at a time (and that's with me constantly agitating with a shish kabob stick).

Edit: One possible improvement could be increasing the wattage of the heater to 2000W. Does anyone have a recommendation for a really cheap blower (or just the element itself)? Or would this water heater element work?

If I reclaim the air from the exhaust back into the pump, would this allow a 1500W heater to work?

Also, If anyone still doesn’t wanna spend that much buy a [heatgun](Genesis GHG1500A Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit with Four Metal Nozzle Attachments https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rLIbBbSZYN31R

Yes heat guns arent designed for the high heat of roasting. I found this one to be pretty good. The plastic sheath falls off though. I keep a spare and alternate them when back to back roasting. I do a lb at a time in a breach machine. Takes 12-15min or so depending on beans.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EU2T8GG

By esteps I mean extruder steps. The number of steps the stepper motor has to turn to push out 1 mm of filament. Generally you can calibrate this by telling it to extrude 100 mm of filament and measuring how much it actually extruded. I don't know specifics of your printer but you should be able to find information about your specific printer indicating if that is something most people do. Here is the procedure for a different printer, it will give you some idea what to look for for yours: https://3dprinterwiki.info/extruder-steps/

To clear out a potential clog take off your nozzle and hold it in front of a heat gun on high with pliers. The filament will pretty much evaporate away. Can use tiny nozzle cleaning drill bits, you can get on amazon or aliexpress, to clean out any that doesn't evaporate.

If you don't have a heat gun you can get them for $10-$20 at Harbor Freight or Amazon. This is the one I bought and it works well (looks like it has went up in price since I bought it though):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU2T8GG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> its thicker than I remember

How old is the nozzle? Maybe it is worn and the hole is now bigger than 0.4mm? (brass nozzles are consumables if that is what you are using)

This is the one I have. Have used it several times to fix tops and wet spots and it works great! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU2T8GG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mean use a heat gun like one of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EU2T8GG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525443704&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=heat+gun&dpPl=1&dpID=41o%2BjfZKenL&ref=plSrch

Tip tinner.

I personally prefer pucks, as the solid flux stays in place until you hit it with the iron. The main concern is that flux is acidic, which is why it's important to clean it off. No-clean flux is no-clean, because it's less acidic. However most types of flux will indeed, over time, eat away at your iron. Referring to you're other comment, you are correct in assuming that lead-free solder is crap, otherwise it would have replaced leaded solder a long time ago. If you're really into preserving your solder tips (like me) you might buy some tip tinner (doesn't matter whether it has lead or not). Just tin your iron with that after use, and it'll keep the tip from oxidizing, or being eaten by acidic flux.

You definitely want to get a soldering station. So something that can control the temperature of the of the iron. The reason being is the ones that just plug into the wall usually fluctuate between extremely hot and very hot which can become if you’re trying to solder next to very delicate transistors on the pcb.


I know people say you can get away with the cheapest everything but that’s usually not the case at all and sometimes dangerous to your health.


Getting good solder, tip tinner, brass sponge, flux pen, and a fan with a carbon filter will do you great things.


The fan is extremely important when your desoldering as that will give off a tonne of chemicals.


This is what I personally have


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BSW69LI/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074J6R1KQ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001W2XZOS/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPGDLA/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NS4J6BY/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The soldering iron is overkill if you’re just using it for trains

> eBay

Thanks. Never heard of that brand before but it looks legit! I have two cheap soldering sets, a gun kind and pen type. They work alright but I imagine they wouldnt compare at all to the Hakko. I will keep my eye out for good deals on them. Wouldnt it be too late if I already purchased it after emailing Hakko the SN? Or would I be doing this prior to buying it via messaging the seller ?


Right now the solder im using is "rosin core 40/60" .

Im not sure if you meant this ratio or the one you said. Im pretty sure this isnt the fine gauge rosin because I have another roll of solder that is like 1 tenth the thickness of this one.

Do you have a link to the best all purpose solder for small electronics or your go to brand? The only reason I got into soldering is because I always end up breaking things and soldering fixes a lot of the things I break lol

Heres the items I have for soldering:

• Electronics soldering gun kit
  
  
• Larger Universal soldering gun
  
  
• Circuit Board Holder
  

1. The multimeter - I would switch that one out for something like the Uni-T UT139C or Amprobe AM-510.
   
   
2. FX-888D is a great soldering station. I don't remember if B+D is an authorized vendor. You have to be really careful because there are LOADS of fakes, even on Amazon. If you can wait, Fry's often has the FX888D go on sale in late July or August.
   
   
3. Not familiar with that brand of solder. Usually limit my purchases to Multicore or Kester. Also, I prefer 63/37 over 60/40 because 63/37 is true eutectic, which will lessen the chances that you get cold solder joints. My favorite is Kester 44 63/37 0.021". The downside is the value doesn't kick in until you buy around 1lb of the solder (for $30ish) which is enough to last you a LONG time.
   
   
4. For flux I recommend the MG Chemicals flux either in the Rosin or No-Clean Formats. They usually run around $9-10 for 125ml, which is a much better value than the pens. For example: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Clean-Halogen-Bottle/dp/B00S16UAGE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496697343&sr=8-3&keywords=MG+Chemicals+no+clean+flux. Add a syringe or applicator and you come out WAY ahead.
   
   
5. The Italian made Hakko cutters are a solid value. The OEM is the italian company Piergiacomi: http://www.piergiacomi.com/piergiacomi/ and they have an even larger line-up.
   
   
6. The helping hands kinda suck (as most do at this price). If you will mainly be working on square boards, there are other designs which work MUCH MUCH better for rework and what not. This kind tends to work much better. Plus, as you can see in the customer reviews, you can modify them pretty cheaply to make them outright exceptional in performance. The next step up would be the USA made Panavise.

Aven 17010 Adjustable Circuit Board Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q2TTQEE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_-VVGwbCQ5C8GA

I got this a while ago and it's pretty good.

Thanks. Here's a link in case helps anyone else. Currently $12.95 and it looks like a gadget that could be used for other one-handed activities. (Now there's a phrase normally used for other activities on Reddit)

Given that this is your first build, I'm wondering whether maybe you're still getting the right tools?

I use this soldering iron from BYOC. It's cheaper than an equivalent Weller, but still works well for me. I previously had a Radio Shack one with a less finely-pointed tip, which was frustrating to use. I also use a circuit board holder from Amazon that makes it easy to put a component in on one side, bend the leads a little to hold it in place, then rotate the board to the other side so I can solder it. I place, solder, and clip the leads for one component at a time. I've tried following some YouTube videos that put in a bunch, tape them down, and then solder through the forest of exposed leads, but that ended up messier than I would have liked.

I'm not sure what you mean about soldering from both sides. Looking at the project doc, it seems to me like all the components (other than the switch and pots) go on the same side. Is it about placing components on one side and soldering on the other?

For an IC socket, I follow these steps:

1. Make sure the PCB is secured in the holder, component side up.
   
2. Place the socket in its holes.
   
3. Rotate the PCB so that it's almost all the way on its side. The holder's grippy bits can swivel to make this easy. You want it rotated enough that you can get underneath with your soldering iron, but not so far that the socket tips or falls out of the board.
   
4. Solder a pin at one of the corners of the socket (don't do them all, yet).
   
5. If the socket lifted up while you were soldering it, then put down your solder and use that hand to gently push down on the socket while your other hand uses the soldering iron to reflow the joint from beneath the board. In the second while the solder is molten, the pressure on the socket will make it push down to lie flush against the PCB.
   
6. Solder the opposite corner of the socket.
   
7. With two opposite corners of the socket now secured, you can flip the board all the way upside down and have easy access to solder the rest of the pins, without fear of the socket shifting or falling out.
   
   Given that the Helios has board-mounted pots, you might also find the instructions below (from BYOC) helpful: https://imgur.com/a/6FLzV

https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17010-Adjustable-Circuit-Holder/dp/B00Q2TTQEE/

This is a good list.

For a soldering iron, a good one like a Hakko FX888D is invaluable. It may seem expensive, but if you buy one you'll never know the annoyance of having to deal with a crappy soldering iron.

If you're going to be soldering breakout boards (or just soldering in general) an Adjustable Circuit Board Holder is very handy.

Yes - that Ebay link is probably the same thing. Here's exactly what I bought.

The base rods are steel, so these magnetic arms also work well as helping hands.

The blue uprights of the PCB holder are plastic, and one side is spring loaded. It allows for several different mounting positions. It also allows you to spin the board back-and-forth, which is good for this kind of work. Note that it barely fits the length of the Planck, and if I were doing anything longer I would need to hold it sideways instead, which would mean the flipping wouldn't work.

It's not heavy duty like something from PanaVise, but for this kind of thing and smaller boards it works fine.

Thanks for the tips re: clips and Electrodroid.

Can't picture how using the vice would work... Usually what i do is put the components through, smoosh on the Blu-tack, then use this circuit board holder to spin it upside down for the soldering:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2TTQEE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very nice work! Here's a link to the one I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Q2TTQEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501995047&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pcb+holder&dpPl=1&dpID=41nBaU-cqqL&ref=plSrch

I got it after starting my Ergodox, and it made it so much easier.

Sorry if the format is off, I'm on mobile.

this little thing has worked great for me.

This is the best cheap iron I've ever used. Won't replace a quality iron but much better than $20 should get you.

Tabiger Soldering Iron Kit 60W 110V-Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with Tool Carry Case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1IFT54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Di7HAbT8K8W6F

I got this one. it works great

Notes and links for self:

Soldering Iron Stand: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=soldering+iron+stand

Kit with cleaning wire: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KTICO2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RzV.ybM81XSFD?th=1

Kit w/o cleaning wire: https://www.amazon.com/Tabiger-Soldering-110V-Adjustable-Temperature-Welding/dp/B01H1IFT54/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&dpID=51YRK651M%2BL&dpPl=1&keywords=soldering%20iron&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&qid=1493103880&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_3&sr=8-3

What is cleaning wire?

Helping hands: https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1493138401&sr=8-7&keywords=soldering+iron+stand

You need to get a soldering iron (not a gun, a soldering gun is way to imprecise for this kind of work). I think you are going to have a difficult time getting the crimp terminals on the spades to properly fasten onto the piezo leads.
Just buy some el cheapo iron for under $20 from Amazon like this one https://www.amazon.com/Tabiger-Soldering-110V-Adjustable-Temperature-Welding/dp/B01H1IFT54/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1538839395&sr=1-6&keywords=Soldering+iron&dpID=51rAt23O28L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I picked up this Tabiger kit last year based on reviews, and have been quite happy with it so far; it included everything I needed, is easy to use and appropriately inexpensive given I wasn't sure I'd stick with the hobby.

(I originally had a terrible Radio Shack soldering iron, ditched that, then got a basic Weller iron that had been recommended for beginners a decade ago, but never had much luck with it and became too frustrated to practice. I strongly suspect the Weller was aimed more at "beginners" taking a supervised class, not people trying to teach themselves based on online tutorials like me.)

Recently I finished a 3S Rapidstrike build:

Motors

Microswitches

Some wire

a lipo battery

Also tools, like a soldering iron or a dremel (i don't have a recommendation here, i just use a hobby knife).

My stock flywheels recently gave up the ghost, so I replaced them with some Worker flywheels.

The only other thing that comes to mind right now are flywheel cages: consider one of these 3D printed ones from the Open Flywheel Project, or an Artifact Red cage + flywheels.

Buy a soldering iron and take the dive!! I bought this: Tabiger Soldering Iron Kit 60W 110V-Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with Tool Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1IFT54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JcZyCb5EPZ0J1 and have used it on multiple projects happily. I’m sure better soldering irons are worthwhile, but this is all you’d need to fix that switch. Oh.. also a replacement switch... details

I use this [soldering iron](Tabiger Soldering Iron 60W 110V-Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with Tool Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1IFT54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v0W4ybAC71YJM) with either the knife tip or the smallest tip. I turn the temp to the highest setting. Works great. Sometimes I have to make a couple passes but as long as the straight edge doesn't move it's not an issue. If it does move I just take my time to reset it. Webbing takes a little longer but again I just make a couple passes and it all works out.

With this can't work? Tabiger Soldering Iron 60W 110V-Adjustable Temperature Welding Soldering Iron with Tool Carry Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1IFT54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d4cAybB4D0MQT

Alright, so you basically have 3 options depending on how much soldering you plan to do. If you're just gonna build one or two keyboards and and will never try to do SMD, I recommend this:

• https://www.amazon.com/Tabiger-Soldering-110V-Adjustable-Temperature-Welding/dp/B01H1IFT54
  
  If you think you're gonna do this a lot, OR you've already had the cheap iron and want something better, you have two choices:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Soldering-Station-599-029/dp/B00C2BHTBI
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WESD51-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000ARU9PO
  
  The Hakko is recommended by basically everyone here, and is widely used in the hobbyist world. I've used the Hakko a few times at TechShop, and it's a good station. However, I've never seen anything but a weller used commercially. I picked up a weller for my own station, I couldn't be happier with it.
  
  No matter which of these 3 you end up you'll be happy.

I can dig it! I originally had this one but it was crap. It looks like yours is similar. Before you buy the big desolder station (which granted, would be much better and great for future) I'd do the cheap price on a higher volume pump. Like I said, it made all the difference for me. =)

Nice! Please let me know what how it goes!

There are a number of ways to desolder, and the better ways increase in price and can hit up your pockets really hard. I personally use a desoldering braid for these small time projects, but you could always use a desoldering pump as well:

https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=zg_bs_8107034011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0SCH7RKJR6YGQEBFH5HT

You'll want to use your soldering iron to heat up the area that you want to desolder in one hand and then use the pump to suck up the solder in the other. The pump is spring loaded -- you push it down and it will click into place until you need to have it suck up the solder. You'll get it with some practice! :D

---

Alternatively I find desoldering braid personally easy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8UPQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This particular braid is very high quality and works even without any flux (though flux helps alot and I recommend it). You can simply use the braid, place it over the area and heat it up with the iron to wick up the solder. If you have some sort of flux, you can flux the tip for easier wicking.

There are also desoldering bulb suckers that heat up, allowing you to depress and suck up the solder, but results may very and the tips on those are usually poor if you are paying +/- 20$.

I'd recommend one of those pumps!

Have you ever soldered before? It might be best to practice on another PCB. You'll need a desoldering tool like this:https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=pd_day0_hl_469_3/134-2481876-5881468?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01I14V4X8&pd_rd_r=40385555-6693-11e9-bbed-57e65051719f&pd_rd_w=OpK6z&pd_rd_wg=NE4R0&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=5VBDX2Q70628W5B650NK&psc=1&refRID=5VBDX2Q70628W5B650NKIf anyone can recommend a better one please do -- this will get the job done, but could be easier

​

I would practice on another PCB first (anything can work, maybe an old remote you're not using -- I learned to solder on an old PS2 modding in a chip years ago -- high bar of entry working on smd pcb components). But this was my first time desoldering correctly. With the tool above it took a while and was a bit frustrating because the tool wasn't perfect. From my understanding, you're supposed to head up the solder on the pcb until you see it liquify (time depends on your soldering iron -- mine is a 15W or 30W switch, at 30W it took about 4-5 seconds), then you're supposed to put the tool directly over the melted solder and release and it should suck it all up. It sucks up what it can that's melted -- a better desoldering tool could get it all in one go. Mine didn't work that well, so I'd have to use it on an angle for a few actuations. Eventually, you'll see that the PCB hole is solder free or the legs are free enough to remove the switch.

For the really stubborn components, I'd end up having to use my switch puller and heat the switch legs a bit while pulling lightly -- not recommended: doing something like this can pull off the traces. Overall, first go took about an hour an a half just to desolder, mostly because of the meh-quality of my desoldering tool. Do not attempt this with just braid, you'll hate yourself.

​

The Mill Max sockets work very well. When installing if you have a switch that is solder free on its legs, you can put the sockets on the switch place it on the board and solder the sockets in -- make sure you don't make the mistake I did with switches with solder on them, then heating sockets and melting the solder inside. I was able to save my mistake with the solder sucker, but it cost me a switch or two -- I bought spare MX Clears on novelkeyz.xyz ahead of time. Alternatively, you can use a toothpick to hold the inserted socket, then solder from the other side -- takes a bit of dexterity to get it right. Make sure to use only a little solder because you do not want to get any into the socket.

I have no complaints about the Mill Max sockets, they get the job done perfectly. The one thing you may want to be careful of is there are certain keys where the PCB mount hole is only half there, you can either be very careful when you solder in the socket, or just regularly solder it in, I think there are two or three of them, the default fn button is one of them I believe.

tldr:

Get a desoldering tool, do not use braid. A high-quality desoldering tool will make your life MUCH easier. Mill Max sockets can be installed using a clean switch or a toothpick. Long Live the hot-swappable Race 3.

Try one of these. Then resolder.

Remove the plastic piece if you can get it off, or snip the pins close to the plastic. Remove the pins 1 by 1, then use a solder sucker and wick to get as much off as you can.

The guide I linked for this keyboard seems to imply that diodes are necessary... or are those already installed and not needed for a switch swap? If that's the case, this is even easier. Is the soldering pump like this? https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526757800&sr=8-4&keywords=desoldering+pump

And yes, I looked inside the housing and the copper leaf (?) is mangled.

Not a kit, but I can throw you a couple links to what I use. These work great for me:

• Soldering iron:
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S5Z1R2/
  
  It's under $10, but I've built two numpads and two TKL boards (handwired) with it. Still running fine with no damage to the tip.
  
  
  
• Flux Pen:
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MCKKBVE/
  
  It's good to have one of these. If your solder isn't taking easily, this can help out a lot.
  
  
• Solder Sucker (If you need it):
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I14V4X8
  
  I only got this because I needed to desolder a full PCB from a case. Might be useful if you mess up and need to remove solder from somewhere.
  
  
• Solder:
  
  Not really sure on this one. My dad had an extra spool that I borrowed from him. I've heard that lead-free solder can be a pain to work with so keep this in mind!

> Can you point me in the direction of a guide to fix it? Thanks for the response, also.

r/AskElectronics can help you find the problem and fix it. You will need a soldering iron and related accessories. This is what I got for myself to fix my mouse:

• AmazonSmile: FX60101 by Hakko
  
• AmazonSmile: T19D24
  
• AmazonSmile: Elenco Soldering Iron Holder
  
• AmazonSmile: MAIYUM 63-37 Tin Lead Rosin core solder wire for electrical soldering (0.6mm 100g)
  
• AmazonSmile: LA-CO 22101 Regular Soldering Flux Paste, 2 oz
  
• AmazonSmile: OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool
  
  You will save money in the long run by fixing your stuff. Use your rights or lose them. Right to repair was first lost when consumers started tolerating proprietary batteries. Then proprietary non-replaceable batteries (NRB's). Then disposable devices. Then pre-paid charging. Then pay per charge. It keeps getting worse. The only way to stop it is to go back to the beginning and eliminate the proprietary NRB's. Before you can regain the right to repair, you first need to regain the right to open your device and put in new batteries.
  
  There are 2 subreddits committed to ending the reign of proprietary NRB's:
  
  
• r/AAMasterRace
  
• r/18650masterrace
  
  Another notable subreddit with right to repair content:
  
  
• r/StallmanWasRight
  
  You can learn more about this issue here:
  
  
• Hackers, farmers, and doctors unite! Support for Right to Repair laws slowly grows : r/AAMasterRace, crossposts, more crossposts
  
• Saving Mankind from self-destruction: A "repair economy" might fix more than just stuff. It could fix us as well. : r/AAMasterRace, crossposts, more crossposts
  
  > research found repair was "helping people overcome the negative logic that accompanies the abandonment of things and people" [...] relationships between people and material things tend to be reciprocal.
  
  
• Reasons to repair : r/coolguides, crossposts
  
  A few other subreddits to help you or inspire you to fix your stuff:
  
  
• r/fixit
  
• r/easyfix
  
• r/ifixit
  
• r/kintsugi
  
• r/Visiblemending
  
• r/techsupportmacgyver
  
• r/hackedgadgets
  
• r/mobilerepair
  
• r/appliancerepair

I meant like the one in the video, but I just realized it's probably not your video :/

I'm a bit slow XD

EDIT: Looks to be custom made, this is the base.

If you get the small propane torch, make sure to get the "clicker" kind that automatically light. This is the one I use.

It is SO nice to just click the button and shove the flame into the smoker and three seconds later it's lit perfectly.

http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395417266&sr=1-1&keywords=propane+torch

If you want a torch that will last you for years.
http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09

http://www.amazon.com/Worthington-MAP-Pro-Cylinder-14-1-oz-Yellow/dp/B00826MGT2/ref=pd_sim_469_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41AuM2ahO7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1NKPJB1K45ZKEDB48YNM

You probably won't find the right kind of solder offline. Just buy this.