Best industrial sealants according to redditors

Pooky fixes all cheap and easy Red Devil 0841DX F Seal 181 Water Based Duct Sealant, 1 gallon, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I7JVUO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pIbKAb1PJJAA8 Be prepared for the mess

Since it's a cheap piece you probably just want a cheap fix...

Maybe wrap the downstem with some teflon tape to seal it up and keep it from wobbling.

I've put traction pads on catchsurfs. I also emailed Catchsurf to see if they had any recommendations:

1. Make sure the board is dry and there is no wax underneath. Foamies are really fucking tedious to remove wax off of. Use a blowdryer on max heat, a lot of paper towels and a whole lot of patience to get all the wax and water out. Prep the area by cleaning it well with rubbing alcohol.
   
   
2. Use 3M 5200 Marine Layer Adhesive. Slather that shit on both the board and the track pad. Be really really generous with the adhesive. make sure you make a watertight seal on the perimeter of the track pad so NO WATER CAN GET IN. follow the instructions on the adhesive to the T.
   
   
3. when you attach the pad to the board, put a shit ton of weights and heavy stuff on and let set for at least a day. Make sure the weights are evenly distributed. In the past, i've made the mistake of putting a disproportionate weight on the kicktail and it made my traction pad slide out of place and i had to tear it up and do it all over again. All in all i got about 8-9 months of use until leaks started getting in when i applied the pad perfectly. You'd probably have to replace the pad after.
   
   I highly suggest you take advantage of Evo's 60% off sale they have today. They have traction pads as low as $5. buy a shit ton as a replacement for when the traction pad finally falls off the foamie

dont use tape with adhesive.
the tape i use is literally a dollar on amazon and im certain it will last my entire stretching journey

https://www.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-TTB75-Industrial-Temperature/dp/B01BY9OH86/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525330858&sr=8-6&keywords=ptfe+tape

Are you using an NPT or triclamp style tube? If you're using NPT (national pipe thread, american pipes in inches basically) you can get a brass NPT ball valve, a reducer to put into the valve for a smaller thread size, and another brass piece, this time a 1/4" flared end for gas. You'll need teflon pipe threading tape to seal everything up and a vice grip or a couple of pipe wrenches to put the thing together. You can get all of this on amazon.

If you have a device like in picture with triclamp ends you'd already know where to get all of this crap but www.glaciertanks.com and www.brewershardware.com sell all the triclamp pieces you will ever need. Glacier Tanks is in oregon and supports the CLS extractor community directly by selling pre-fabbed terpinator style lids and collection pots, Brewers Hardware has a bunch of stuff they don't carry though as well. I've used both and they are awesome. Brewers Hardware also has lower prices on a lot of stuff like the spools you'll be using as extraction tubes, and they sell the national pipe thread to triclamp ends that I'm gonna need to modify my own old open blast tubes (my 1-2 and 3-5oz tubes depending on material and how tight it packs) into CLS parts. I have a calculator setup i've figured out though for how big of a tube can fit how much material for CLS use though. a 3"x18" spool fits about a half pound (bhogart sells a 3"x36" as their 1LB unit and it fits roughly that), so I figured out its volume from there and I can figure out how big of a tube will fit say 1oz, 2 ounces, and so on. you don't need perfectly filled tubes with CLS extractors either, you can fluff the top with coffee filters so the butane disperses evenly on the top, and typically in a shower style unit like the Bhogart, the top few inches don't get properly extracted anyways if you fill it all the way to the brim. I try to leave 2-3 inches at the top of the 36" column bare so it can just shower down and it seems to work really well, but with a narrower tube size you will probably be okay.

IF you got this far, you also are going to want a can cracker. You can use it on the top of the pipe in lieu of the brass hose hookup by screwing it directly to the top, but you need to make sure you get the right fittings for it. It looks like the crackers they sell all have the 1/4" flare end facing the wrong angle, so you'll probably need the hose after all. here's the cracker and a link to the right type of hose, as well as a link to one of the fitting types (though maybe not in the right NPT thread you need).

cracker: http://smile.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275663&sr=8-2&keywords=refrigerant+can+

PTFE lined chemical hose buying list. you want 1/4": http://smile.amazon.com/Unisource-Chemical-Assembly-Connection-Pressure/dp/B007USNQNI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275772&sr=8-6&keywords=ptfe+lined+hose

the style of brass end you need: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000WTXICQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

brass coupler to put the end into:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMJCQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

something to put the brass coupler into to make it fit your valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00835RTY4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
2" brass valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0081LIGIS/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

ptfe tape: http://smile.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-Coupling-TTB50-Temperature/dp/B00IIJB7F2/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1421277137&sr=1-3&keywords=ptfe+tape


after reading around, you said your pipe was 2" so i modified the list with everything you'd need to modify a 2" pipe.

What we did at my house was get some:

craftsmen nozzles (lifetime warranty)

A roll of teflon tape for the threads

And some quick connects

No leaks, and is super easy to change hose attachments.

Pretty basic, but I have this in all my vehicles now -
Loctite Insulating wrap

It saved my ass in my M5 when I had damage to a cooling hose a long way away from home. Wrapped up the hose and put ~100 miles on it with out a single leak.

I have the dual fuel smoker. Get a needle valve, it works. It takes very minor adjustments to slow the fuel. You'll need tape, and extra propane gas line as well. You will have to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't blow out, but it hasn't done it on me yet. I got exactly this:

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-1631-8-Inch-Straight-Needle/dp/B008E5C7NG

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-59913-Propane-Hose-Assembly/dp/B007HG7Y7M

http://www.amazon.com/44094-Slic-Tite-Thread-Premium-Length/dp/B004MYFPAK

PTFE Yellow Gas Line Tape: http://www.amazon.com/-CO-Slic-Tite-Premium-Temperature-Thickness/dp/B004MYFPAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422003333&sr=8-1&keywords=ptfe+tape+gas

Can get at any hardware store also....

I haven't forgotten you. I'll be sending over some pics today, but in the meantime A photo album of the project can be found here, sorry for the pics being out of order, but all of your measurements and locations should be included in those pics. Also, here are some things that you'll need -- what you will be making is actually able to hold considerable weight so I feel that it winds up being even better than the cover that we can't find:

• (1) sheet of plywood -- thickness is up to you, but I would recommend
  1/2" -- you will want the following measurements -- so it will just barely sit on the small ledge that is there and also give you room after you add the heavy-duty felt:
  
  Length = 38.50"
  Width (Depth) = 19"
  
  
• (1) wood 2x4 --- you'll only need about 4" and will be cutting this in half.
  
  
• (2) 2.5" or 3" wood screws -- you'll want to get good quality for these because they will be taking most of the abuse.
  
  
• (~8) 1/2" or 1" wood screws.
  
  
• (2) 1" or 2" max, toggle bolts to mount the clothes pole sockets to the side of the cargo area. These will be holding the weight and there also isn't much clearance in that part of the cargo area because of the wheel well.
  
  
• (~8) yards of heavy-duty felt --- this can be found in the craft section of WalMart if you do not have a JoAnne's or other fabric store in your area. You'll want to make sure that this is the tough kind of felt, not the kind that most crafts are done with where its stretchy and you can almost pull it apart with your fingers. I was able to find mine on clearance at my local walmart for about $1.50 a yard.
  
  
• Black spray paint -- to match the inside plastic of the cargo area -- regular black matte finish works fine -- you will need to do touch-ups periodically.
  
  
• (1) can of 3M Super 77 spray adhesive (Link - Not an affiliate link I promise) -- this is available at WalMart and other stores as well.
  
  
• (1) set of clothes pole sockets (Link - Not an affiliate link I promise) -- these are available at WalMart and other stores as well.
  
  
• (1) wood dowel rod or clothes closet pole (really going to be dependent on what you can get a deal on, you'll only need about 8") that is the same diameter as the clothes pole sockets that you select.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

One pro tip?
The copper lines coming outside will need to be bent 90 degrees without crimping. The trick is to buy long springs that are near the ID of the copper lines. Slip the springs in [you may need to tie a string to them to retrieve] so they are placed where the bend is anticipated. The spring will prevent you from crimping the copper and pulling the string will stretch the spring allowing you to retrieve them.

Another tip is

If you aren't confident about making new flares and want to use the full length of the lines supplied make a loop of the line behind the outdoor unit and sand the supplied flares with 400 grit before tightening. Also,buy the HVAC "thread sealer". It acts as a lubricant to allow you to easily tighten the flares and get a good seal.

Finally,snug up the schrader valves with a schrader wrench before you evacuate/charge

https://www.amazon.com/Schrader-Valve-Core-Removal-Cores/dp/B00UASKOG2


https://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Technologies-RT201B-NYLOG-GASKET-SEALANT/dp/B008HOSQQQ

Stick it with NP1 and you wont EVER get the legos off the wood again.

A good marine adhesive might do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/3M-05220-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0000AY6CA

But the other poster is probably correct, replacing the seal is going to be the best long term fix.

Likely you didn't mess anything up, don't worry. If you're feeling really confident, you could take those keys off and put a small amount of teflon tape around the lever pin to prevent it from slipping through the hole.

Thread tape. Piping tape. Whatever you want to call it. Just pick some up at Walmart or something. They're cheap. Something like this:

Dixon Valve & Coupling TTB50 PTFE Industrial Sealant Tape, -212 to 500 Degree Fahrenheit Temperature Range, 3.5mil Thick, 520" Length, 1/2" Width, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIJB7F2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ytvyub059TS27

First off, i seriously doubt it is caulk (in the traditional sense). I t is most likely a contruction adheasive. From the looks of it, probably Power-Grab. This is a polyurethane adheasive that is pretty much permeneat. You could try a caulk remover, but it may not do much. The one I linked is water based so it's probably a bit milder than some of the other (more effective) removers like McKanica. Realistically, those adhesive can be dissolved though. The manufacturers basically recommend using a thin wire to 'cut' the adhesive free. I would try the plastic razor and heat. You MIGHT be able to soften it some with mineral oil which will also give the benefit of lubricating your razor. Good luck!!!

Sorry about the delay, things have been busy. Here's a link for the plugs we use. https://skatesus.com/product/carbon-filler-plugs/ My daughter has edea skates, but I don't see any reason why these wouldn't work in any other brand. Here is the epoxy that we've used. 3M 05220 Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 Fast Cure, 3 oz. / White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY6CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9MDmDbA24X9PK We've been able to get it at the local hardware store, but your mileage may very on that. Good skating!

They sell tool handle paint.

RUST-OLEUM 322787 14 oz Matte Red Rubberized Dip Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07876V13C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_66PMDb1REBPEH

https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-Original-Clear-Penetrating-Sealer/dp/B071XB5V6M?th=1

This is the one I believe he's referring to, and what I've seen recommended on IG by either Cremona or Spagnola, can't remember which.

Dap 00101 White Phenoseal Does It All Vinyl Adhesive Caulk 5.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BCYPU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_q2cwDbQ74196A

You can get it at home depot, also i use siliconized plumbers caulk. I heard siliconized stays more flexible and mold resistant over time but i use whatever i have on me. Both of them are applied the same. Its great because you slob so much on there and it wont matter. How i do it is do a thin layer all around, and then use a wet (important) paper towel to wipe off excess. Do this a few more times, then i wet my finger to finish it off to make it super smooth and clean. Highly recommend

If you ever really really need something to glue up and be water-tight.... the only real answer is 5200.

That stuff is the stickiest of the sticky. Stays flexible.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-5200FC-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B01D893GGY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537209975&sr=8-1&keywords=5200

Unless you own a caulk gun, this will be all that you need. Your cut will decide how thick it comes out. I recommend imagining that a number 2 pencil could almost fit into the cut tube. Soon if not immediately after it's applied, run your wet finger over the caulk in order to make it concave at the corner. Have a little rag at the ready, and keep your finger clean.

> You should bring up who installed what.

Why?
So they can get an unpaid claim?

Insurance companies base some of their decisions off of professional installation. I'm willing to bet there instalation involved some plumber's tape and a wrench. The black and white world of claims isn't going to understand that.

You're a who again?

Use PTFE tape, the stuff I just linked below is industrial and military grade tape so it should hold up to a lot of pressure.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IYFC2VI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1413996582&sr=8-1

That sucks. 🙄🙄🙄 so frustrating.

I’d also suggest that you go back to the piercer and have them help you tighten them.

The plumbers tape is available at home improvement stores or large box stores. I actually used it on the jewelry as I was stretching my nipple piercings, but it’s awesome at making a good seal, literally wrap it around the screw portion and then put the ball on, should keep it secure.

Perhaps something like this stuff would do the trick?

A couple ways to approach it. The "proper" way would be to remove the jet and remove the silicon from it and the tub (http://www.amazon.com/Mckanica-Caulk-3-Oz-Silicone/dp/B000PVT1P4/) and then re-silicone it. Depending on the jet, it might be extremely difficult to get removed - and might require buying a tool.

The hack'ish way to fix it would be to simply add silicone around the interface where it is leaking (after draining the water below that level, obviously). The challenge is that since water flows so well, you can't be sure exactly where it is leaking, so that pretty much means putting extra silicone around the whole jet. Main downside to this is that there is no guarantee it'll fix it, mainly because silicone doesn't bond well to dried silicone. So if there is any meaningful amount of existing silicone, you'd want to cut it down as much as possible, and then to maximize your chances, you'd want to put a fair amount on to maximize adhesion to the tub and jet.

Here's the silicone you use:
http://www.spadepot.com/shop/Clear-Silicone-Spa-Pool-Adhesive-Sealant-10-oz-P9282C149.aspx

Those ducts look like they were masticed which is perfect. This was the product I was talking about: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-125-in-Foam-Plumbing-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation/1081449

One side is sticky, but being out and exposed to the elements might take its toll.

My suggestion is this, I warn it will take some work but it will be very worth it, and not that expensive while yeilding the best r-value bang for buck:

Get some foam board adhesive: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-Adhesive-1421941/202020476

And get some sheets of foam board: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kingspan-Insulation-Common-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-Feet-R-10-Unfaced-Polystyrene-Foam-Board-Insulation/999972968

Your outside layer of foam board should be this: https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/foam-board-insulation/johns-manville-foil-faced-polyiso-foam-insulation-4-x-8/w-n5075/p-1444438921381.htm

To start you should verify 100% that those duct joints are masticed good, and I mean good, all the joints should be full of it and no holes, no pinholes even. if not get this: https://www.amazon.com/Design-Polymerics-Mastic-Sealant-0-50-Gallon/dp/B0085UZBE2

Once they are 100% sealed you can start. IF you want layers of foam board (more r-value the better) the best thing you can do is use an unfaced foam board for your layers. Your outer layer should be the foil faced foam board. To attach your foam board to your ducts use the duct adhesive, you MUST use this specifically, other adhesives can degrade and "eat away" the foam and eventually the adhesive will fail and it will fall off. Obviously you will need to cut the foam board to spec to fit on the ducting. USe the adhesive to attach it to the ductwork, foil face out. You will then want to cover the seams with silicon or foil faced duct work tape, not duck tape. IF you want additional security for them to hold and not fall off or fly off with wind you can use a metal band strap. or self tapping screws with large zinc washers

metal duct tape: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=speed+tape&qid=1551224134&s=gateway&sr=8-6

metal strapping: https://www.amazon.com/DIVERSITECH-710-001-Galvanized-Metallic-Strap/dp/B00CD6WON0/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-8

metal strapping tension locks: https://www.amazon.com/Tension-Triglides-Webbing-Strapping-Adjustor/dp/B01JG09244/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-17


self tapping screws (need to be long enough to go through foam AND the metal duct work): https://www.amazon.com/Self-Drilling-Plated-Finish-Undercut-Phillips/dp/B00GYK2S7I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3+inch+self+tapping+screws&qid=1551224214&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Now since its outside the air inside will eventually still change to the outside temperature, but not as fast and less bleed off of temperature in the ductwork due to outside ambient temperature making the ductwork sheathing the same temperature.

We had an epic clog in the bathroom sink once. The prior owners liked to cram hair down there or something. We ended up having to shut off the water to the bathroom, removed the piping, and manually scraping out all the goop and hair in the pipes. Then put it all back together and water test it. Took about 90 minutes and it has worked well ever since.

If you have to go that route get a pair of disposable gloves, one of those plastic drain snakes (about $2-$4 at HD), and a hook and pick set (saw one at autozone for $1.79). Don't forget some plumber's tape(just got some for $0.52 at walmart).

You can use either a big channel-lock pliers or an actual plumber's wrench (usually more expensive) to take apart the pipes, if you need to buy some measure your pipe sizes ahead of time. You will either need 2 of them, one to counterbalance your wrenching, or some other way to hold the other end in-place while you unscrew stuff.

Good luck!

As an aside: the amazon stuff I linked is waay over priced, but it lets you know what I am talking about, and I'm too lazy to find the best prices for stuff in your area.

I would recommend finding something like this Water Heater Pex
It's 3/4 so should be able to provide high pressure.
Also when I did my house with pex, I used Tape Thread on the water heater and still hasn't had a leak :)

Good luck

• If you're pulling a cable through concrete, fine, just fill the hole with this so you don't decrease your fire safety. If the cable isn't getting jostled a lot, I wouldn't worry about it being damaged.
  
• The difference between CAT 5e and 6 isn't much today (both can handle gigabit ethernet), but will matter in ~3-6 years when consumers start using 10 gigabit ethernet. CAT 6 is almost as cheap as 5e these days, so I'd put it in