Best interconnects according to redditors

We found 865 Reddit comments discussing the best interconnects. We ranked the 489 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Computer cables & interconnects
Electrical wires
Extension cords
Electric outlets & accessories
Isolation transformers
Interconnect cables
Power entry modules
Interconnect sockets
Terminal blocks
Interconnect terminals
Interconnect test points
Industrial heat-shrink tubing
Connectors
Electric boxes, conduit & fittings

Top Reddit comments about Interconnects:

u/IchigoKyger · 48 pointsr/SwitchHaxing

I would only suggest doing this mod if you are extremely comfortable with a soldering iron. I'm not responsible if you mess up your Joy-Con. With that being said below are the things I used to make this possible:

Parts

  1. Take apart your Joy-Con.
  2. Run two wires from the Pin 10 pad and the ground as shown in this picture: https://i.imgur.com/mpbtqVQ.jpg Leave some extra wire so you can cut to size later. Soldering to the ground plain can be a pain I brought my Iron up to 750 F, used a bigger tip and had to hold it there for awhile before it would become molten.
  3. Re-assemble your Joy-Con up to putting the back on it.
  4. Take the 6mm x 6mm x 6mm Tactile push button and cut off the leads on one side and bend the other leads flat.
  5. Cut two small pieces of weather seal and place them on top of each other and hot-glue the button to the top of it.
  6. Place your weather seal and button down to the left side below the battery so it doen't interfere with the rail.
  7. Cut your wires to size and solder each wire to their own lead on the button.
  8. Place your back cover on to the Joy-Con to see where the button is and make a mark in the center of the button.
  9. Remove the back cover and slowly drill a hole stepping up bit sizes until the button fits in.
  10. Re-assemble and enjoy!

    More pictures

u/FuglyJim · 20 pointsr/DIY

Looks very nice. I'm an electrician, put in a lot of lights, and I think your frame within a frame idea is spot on; it's a great way to design a light so it can be installed or taken down without juggling the entire fixture on the top of a ladder.

Your use of the wagos to make a "busbar" was a very creative way of making neat wiring. An alternative would be to use terminal strips with jumpers and if you want to make the wiring super neat, use sticky backs and zip ties.

Great stuff!

u/LifeLibertySubaru · 17 pointsr/homelab

If this were me, I would likely use some Scotchlok Butt Connectors. They would provide a more secure connection, and are very common in telecom/data cabling. Link To Scotchloks on Amazon.

Edit: The best part, the only tool you need is a pair of pliers. No guarantee this will fix the problem, but it should help- either way it’s a better way to connect them, compared to twisting the wires.

u/mydoglixu · 16 pointsr/fixit

Seconded on the heat shrink. Something like this

Also- don't use a lighter, use actual heat from an extra hot hair dryer, or a heat gun. A lighter will give you a hard time and just burn the tubing- source: I've burned tubing with a lighter.

u/neuromonkey · 14 pointsr/raspberry_pi

A couple of things come to mind:

A) Cool.

B) Instead of drilling through your stencils, I recommend using a finishing nail or an awl and banging pilot divots. This centers and guides the drill bit, and keeps you from killing your stencil, just in case.

3) Try heat shrink tubing. It's not terribly expensive, it's fun to use, and it makes you look clever.

D) In the event that you ever want people to think that you are very clever, get a decent soldering iron. If you have a lot of extra money to throw around, get a fancy Weller station. If not, I recommend the adorable Hakko FX-888. Now that the analog version has been discontinued, it's hard to find on sale, but... they're fantastic. If you want to feel fancy, you could get something like this. Look at all those bits! I don't know either!

u/viral_dna · 12 pointsr/classicmods

This is actually something I began last year and have only really posted a few teasers here and there. Well now that I've finally had time to clean it up and go back and add in the original cable I figured I'd share it with you all.

This "Stealth SD Mod" as I'm calling it, uses a MicroSD card and reader, however, you could just as easily use a small USB thumb drive in place of the MicroSD card and reader.

The way the stock USB cable connects to the inside of the controller actually presented itself as quite a problem, and not wanting to cut the cable, or destructively dremel away any of the controller (mainly due to my OCD) only made things harder. Fortunately, I was able to find a solution. Once assembled, this non destructive mod is Plug & Play.

This is actually an early prototype of something a little more advanced I'm working on.

Parts Required


  • Question: Does the controller have to be connected to Port 2?

    Answer:
    >Currently yes it must be connected to Port 2 (Player 2). The reason for this is when connected to Port 1 the system doesn't recognize the controller. This is something I think we can fix in a future update.


  • Question: Does the controller still function as a controller?

    Answer:
    >Yes, absolutely. Keep in mind however that the draw does exceed the allowed amount, so the USB Current Limit Mod is still required.


  • Question: What about USB Brown-outs?

    Answer:
    >While the power draw on this is incredibly low you'll still need to perform the USB Current Limit Mod in order to use this (Or use a hub, but that sort of defeats the purpose).


  • Question: Can you still use port 2 for other things like USB Thumb-drives, hubs etc?

    Answer:
    >Yes, absolutely.


  • Question: Can I bring my modded controller to a friends and play on their system with it?

    Answer:
    >Only if they have a powered USB hub or have performed the USB Current Limit Mod


  • Question: Does it throw off the balance of the controller at all?

    Answer:
    >The difference in weight is negligible (Stock 130g vs modded 136g).
u/HomeDepotShill · 8 pointsr/DIY

The biggest current issue with push-in connections is that they're only on the cheapest of devices. This means that homeowners will buy and attempt to install these devices incorrectly. Like 12AWG wire in a 14AWG push-in. Or not properly stripping and terminating the connection on a push in.

There are some great push-in connectors that are used on the market, like the Ideal In-Sure or the more common Wago connector.

The link you reference is for push-in connectors, not push-in connections on devices.

EDIT: I wanted to add, there are even better and faster connectors than the Wago/Ideal push-in connectors. The Wago Lever-nuts are amazing.

Also want to distinguish between push-in connections and push-in connectors (as far as the trade slang goes in my area, every area is different). Push-in connections will be on a device, like a receptacle or switch. Push-in connectors are those like that of Wago or Ideal. Separate from the device.

I apologize for being sloppy with my terminology during this discussion. I know I've interchanged connectors and connections where I shouldn't have.

u/BreeStephany · 8 pointsr/toolboxmods

Mount your powerstrip on top, route the wiring into the underside of the top and route it forward, then mount a low profile surface mount switch on the underside of the top so you can just open the drawer and turn it on and off, you can then route it out the back of the box with just a cord and a plug or you can mount an recessed male plug on the back of the box that you can plug a cord into.

I used an IEC plug for the back of my powerbank project and was pretty happy with how it turned out. I used a locking IEC cord to come out of it which I can put a twist lock plug on for cord drops, etc.

u/goldfingeroo7 · 8 pointsr/RetroPie

I wanted to show off an arcade cabinet that my brother in-law and I built.

Imgur Gallery

We designed the cabinet in 3d to make sure everything would fit. Then cut out everything using a CNC router. We used wood glue and wood putty to put everything together. For the monitor we used a Dell 17" (we had lying around) mounted portrait. The guts of the arcade are

  • Internal PC fans used for cooling. We did this because the monitor would get a little warm after playing. Plus it couldn't hurt. Not too loud either.
  • Speakers are from an old kiosk that we were throwing away at work. I did look at some other solutions but since I already had them and they were powered, we decided on using them. It also helped that the size matched the PC fans so the hole pattern would look nice on the side
  • Buttons and Joysticks were purchased from [Amazon].(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WDQWK5M/)
  • We used a Raspberry Pi 3 purchased from Amazon.
  • For power, we took a power strip and removed the plug and bought (this power socket)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/] from Amazon. Soldered the connections from the power strip to the power socket.
  • Still waiting on the custom piece of tempered glass that will go on the top.
  • It's got 2 coats of stain and a couple of coats of polyurethane to protect the wood.

    In all it took us a couple of weeks to design in 3D. My brother in-law did all this work. He also cut out everything and assembled the shell. I did all the internal wiring and software side of things. It is running RetroPie 4.0.2. The only really PITA is that this is a cocktail arcade. Most if not all the games needed a custom shader to correctly implement the rotation and dual flipped screens. A big shout out to hunterk from (libretro.com)[http://libretro.com] forums for helping me with this. It turns out that NES, SNES, Arcade, etc... needed their own shader to correctly display the image to both users. Also, the mame emulator has the ability on some 2 player games, to set cocktail mode. That way, when it is the 2 players turn, the screen auto rotates so they can play on their side.

    We were pretty impressed with ourselves when we finished. We built it to give away at a foundation raffle a couple of weeks ago and the winner was very excited to win it.

    I'll be glad to answer any questions you guys/girls have about the build. I plan on putting the glsl shaders on my github so others using the RetroPie OS in cocktail mode can use them.
u/ultralowlatency · 6 pointsr/audiophile
u/OrganicThrow · 6 pointsr/microgrowery

I highly recommend you just read through this page on powering single COB led lights. Even if you have only a little bit of technical know how you can do it. Then build a light using this LED, bought with a discount code, Growmau5. Then mount it to this if you don't have a way to drill and tap this instead.

^If ^you ^go ^with ^the ^drilling ^and ^tapping ^you'll ^need ^an ^old ^cell ^phone ^charger ^to ^power ^the ^fan, ^but ^it's ^more ^compact.

That LED can be powered by this driver at about 2800mA for a nice 100 watt light under 100$.

Edit: Oh and an old power cord and these to put it all together.

u/aarghj · 6 pointsr/DIY

here you go, the modern gold standard. Solder Seal heat shrink tubing.

u/krunk84 · 6 pointsr/cade

As requested:


Bartop kit - $139.99 link


Buttons - $66 link


Raspberry Pi 3 - $35 link


Raspberry Pi Case - $7.95 link


Power Recpetical - $5.99 link


USB Hub - $11.99 - linl


Zip Ties for cable management - $5.98 - link


External USB Ports - $11.90 link


Velcro Pads for mounting speakers and Raspberry Pi case - $2.98 link


64 gb SD Card - $24.88 link


HDMI to VGA adapter - $7.99 link


20 ft of 3/4 inch t-molding - $6.99 link


Total cost so far including shipping - $361.13

u/ShuRugal · 6 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Jesus, have you never heard of insulated butt splices? Solder-and-seal connectors are even better.

u/yellowcooln · 6 pointsr/RTLSDR

I pulled these images using a IEIK SDRMCX RTL-SDR, RF coaxial coax cable F female to MCX, and some Rabbit Ears I got off eBay. I live right by a school. So during the day I just went down with my laptop and sat on the ground and held the antenna above my head. My next thing is to build a QHF antenna and set it up outside and have it pull images all day. If anyone has a goo guide to do so or have any ideas please share.

u/conditioned_operant · 5 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

If you really really really hate the idea of soldering, you can use these: https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7

They solder and heatshrink and encapsulate all at once, which is amazing, but they're expensive.

Edit: Also, if you want an iron that's amazing for working on cars, here's the unit I use. It's a butane powered iron. Gets hot in like 10 seconds and works way better than the $25 firestarter turds they sell at the hardware store. http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Soldering-Rework/Soldering-Irons-Accessories/Soldering-Irons/UT-100SI-32612

u/ardweebno · 5 pointsr/Guitar

[Heat-shrink tubing] (https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-SHRINK-SLEEVES-ASSORTED/dp/B005W42SW2/).

When I put on new strings, I always slide a 1/2" section of the tiniest heat-shrink tubing that I can find over my upper strings. To make sure you get it in the correct spot, lay your string across the nut like you are going to string it up, mark the spot on the string about a 1/2" after then nut, then slide the heatshrink over the string to that spot and heat it with a lighter, heat gun or HOT hairdryer. It will look nice and more importantly, dampen and and all vibrations after the nut.

u/toybuilder · 5 pointsr/electrical

You should be using quick-connect crimped terminals. That's why they have the blades like they do.

Soldering can actually damage the internals of switches from overheating.

Don't get the kind you linked to with the metals exposed. Get fully insulated ones like https://www.mcmaster.com/#7243k111 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010GWZOUW/ref=asc_df_B010GWZOUW5487366

u/dcarcher · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile
u/mentaldemise · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/IllustratedMann · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

You seem to be misunderstanding a few things, so it'll be easier just to give you low down.

First, why do you want to switch power supplies? This is definitely an "upgrade", but unless your power supply is broken, it isn't necessary. The psu that comes with it is sufficient, and thousands of people use it. The easiest things to do to make sure it's totally safe is to mount a fan on it (if your model doesn't already have a fan), and attach a fused socket.

Adding mosfets have nothing to do with the amount of power drawn from your PSU. Without a mosfet, what happens is power goes from your PSU to your mainboard, to a mosfet on the board, to the connector on the board, to your hotbed. The on board mosfet and onboard connector are points of failure.

When people "add a mosfet" what they're doing is separating the power. Instead of PSU->Board->board mosfet->Connector->Hotbed, it goes PSU->Off board mosfet->Hotbed.

This allieviates heat and failure points on your board. You use the wires you would be connecting to your board as basically trigger wires, attaching them to the input of the mosfet board, and then the mosfet acts as a relay and the power basically flows straight from your psu to your hotbed.

Also, do not add a mosfet to your hotend. Anyone who tells you to do so doesn't know what they're talking about. Your hotend only draws 3 amps, and it may cause temperature fluctuation by design. It won't help anything, and can only make things worse.

You do want a mosfet for the hotbed though, which draws about 11 amps cold, 9 amps hot. Going back to what I was saying before, and to answer why you don't need a current limiting resistor, you don't want to limit any current. It doesn't matter if you add a mosfet or not. It's a function of ohms law. If your bed has a resistance of 1 Ohm, and you give it 12 volts, it will be drawing 12 amps. That's it. If you add a mosfet, it's job, as stated previously, is so the ~10 amps bypasses your board.

Now, if you do want to get an atx psu, 500 watts absolutely is not required. Looking back at ohms law, we see that the 1 Ohm, 12 volt, 12 amp hotbed will be drawing 144 watts. The 4 ohm, 12 volt hot end will be drawing 3 amps, and 36 watts. So your bed and hotend need 180 watts and 15 amps, your board and 5 steppers will take a few more amps, and therefore wattage. 500 is overkill, but more definitely doesn't hurt anything.

If that's the route your going, what you should do is look up the correct way to connect a mosfet, and then run your bed on a single 12 volt rail, and then run everything else on the second 12v rail.

u/coryking · 4 pointsr/arduino

Couple things:

This slider dolly will be used to take overnight timelapse videos of the milky way. I want to hike this up an abandoned logging road in mountains near where I live, set it up on a timer, hike back down and sit around a campfire while it does its thing overnight. There were a few design goals in this project:

  • It has to be light enough to hike up 600 feet of elevation gain.
  • It has to have a power source that can handle cold temperatures. The mountains get very cold at night and certain battery chemistries crap out in cold weather.
  • It has to have a timer to start the timelapse.
  • It has to control the shutter on the camera.
  • It has to deal with wind. This thing will be on a mountain. It gets windy. No vibrations.... think "30 second shutter speed".
  • It needs to conserve power. The more power it uses, the bigger battery I have to cram into my backpack.
  • I have to be able to trust it to work unattended! Nothing sucks more than coming back to your camera in the morning and finding that something fucked up. There is a limited number of days in the year that you can do timelapse of the milky way...

    If I did this over agin here is what I might do different:

  • I would have got a custom PCB etched. Perfboards are a pain in the ass...
  • I would have used one of those little 0.96" OLED displays.
  • I would have driven the stepper motor with a second MCU co-processor. Based on experimenting, I found those things things require a "pure" squarewave to move smoothly. Anything my MCU was doing in the "loop()" that wasn't driving the stepper motor resulted in a jerky, slow stepper motor.

    Here is the inside of the "big case". The potentiometer controls the brightness of the backlight. The USB cable thing is just a USB cable so I don't have to unscrew the damn thing every time I want to update the code...

    Source code & schematic: https://github.com/coryking/MotionController

    Example videos:

    Quick 20 Minute Jaunt Down The Fire Escape

    Capitol Hill At Night


u/Hellspark08 · 4 pointsr/Multicopter

I combined this power supply with this switch combo bolted down inside an ammo can as my charging setup and charger case. If you have a drill and a Dremel, you can easily do the same. That supply gives you 30 amps of 12 volts with three separate outputs. So you could run 3 of those Accucel chargers at max power, in theory.

u/BatmanSays5 · 4 pointsr/essential
u/Hypertoken · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

I just spent the last week buying and printing upgrades for my new A8... I'm also new to 3D printing. Its been printing great so far.

Purchased;
Mosfet: $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP4YZ9N
GT2 Belts: $9 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0G4144
30A PSU: $20 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/
Power Socket w/ Switch & Fuse: $5 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
Printed;
Extruder Buton: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1935151
T Corner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959
Anti Z Wobble: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435
Y Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149867
X Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354736
Z Endstop Fine Adjustment: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1776429

u/slavik0329 · 3 pointsr/esp8266

Get a NodeMCU D1 mini. it's a tiny esp8266 with built in microusb port and many input/output pins. Costs $4-8. The screen is listing below requires only four pins two operate using i2c protocol with the Wire library. Costs $2-5

Diymall 0.96" Inch Yellow Blue I2c IIC Serial Oled LCD LED Module 12864 128X64 for Arduino Display 51 Msp420 Stim32 SCR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O2LLT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AJxHyb8WHR49A

u/wimploaf · 3 pointsr/fixit

I agree with the guy saying to repair the existing one. Just cut out the chewed portion of wire, strip the insulation back about an inch, slide on some heat shrink, make a western union splice (can be done with no solder), slide heat shrink back onto the bare metal and heat.

If you choose to buy a replacement, make sure you measure the diameter of your existing plug and match it to the one you buy, there are several different size barrels.

u/FattyTfromPSD · 3 pointsr/fixit

Amazon, hardware stores. Stuff is everywhere in the electrical sections.

Best part is that if it doesn’t work, or if it affects your closure too much, then you can just cut it off.

here

u/KingZarkon · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Get some spade terminals to crimp on the wire. I've had a lot of issues with the thread the wire through and twist it approach. It works fine at first but often tends to work loose and oxidize over time and starts cutting out.

u/wolfanyd · 3 pointsr/iphone

And you easily fix it with a piece of shrink tubing

u/ChefJoe98136 · 3 pointsr/electricians

Not exactly cheap, but Wago lever-nuts work great for stranded and solid.

https://www.amazon.com/222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Compact-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66

u/trogdorhd · 3 pointsr/electrical

Check out this site. There's a good photo illustration of the right way to safely connect stranded and non-stranded wires.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring/how-to-make-safe-wire-nut-connections/view-all/

Or just buy some wago connectors: https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66/

u/koniferus · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Amazon has them. If you have prime it would be your fastest cheapest route.

Edit: Here's what I got - 240 wraps, assorted colors, nice and thick - $11.80

Here's 300 for $8.50 Can't vouch for their quality though.

u/MertsA · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

No, you still wouldn't ever want to do it that way. Just use a standby UPS plugged into the same circuit as the primary supply. Least sketchy way to do it would be to score the power cable along the length for a couple inches and around the circumference all the way through and peel off the jacket to expose the three inner conductors and slap on a t tap on each one. Then just wire up an adapter going from a standard NEMA 5 plug to the spade terminals from the t taps.

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y

All you would do to switch it over is plug the cable into the UPS first, then plug the spade connectors into the t taps, unplug the original power cable from the wall and immediately plug it into the UPS, then unplug the spade connectors and remove the adapter cable.

u/mustangsal · 3 pointsr/arduino

For the OLED

Check out the mini 05, the Pico, or even the Teensy.

u/stkrzysiak · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

http://www.switchtop.com/product/40-percent-keyboard-kits
The kit comes with everything you need for wiring it. The ribbon cable and I did not get along so I bought some of this wire.
The keycaps for from http://pimpmykeyboard.com and the switches(zealios) are from http://1upkeyboards.com

u/aceplayer55 · 3 pointsr/lightsabers

OK, here is the short and dirty version. If you need more info, I can give it to you. I'll assume you know the bare essentials of coding, and soldering. This subreddit seems like they don't mind a bit of DIY and learning. There are 2 versions. One has a color changing blade, the other doesn't. The only downside to this DIY is that the LED in the blade could be brighter. I am currently experimenting with different lighting types to see what's best.

For a saber with color-changing ability, buy this wishlist:

https://www.adafruit.com/wishlists/491218

and also this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ONOI9K2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For a saber with no color changing ability, buy this wishlist:

https://www.adafruit.com/wishlists/492907

and also this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ONOI9K2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

________________________________________________________________________________________________________

You will also need a soldering iron, some wires to put stuff together, and if you're fancy, some heat-shrink tubes. You'll also need a computer with internet access and a USB-microUSB cable that has data-transmission capabilities. Any moderately expensive USB cable usually has data functionality as well. Here is a list of stuff that would get you on your way:

Guide on how to get your microcontrollers up and running:

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-m0-express-designed-for-circuit-python-circuitpython/kattni-circuitpython

Easy-detach wires

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075K4HLTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heat-shrink

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PCQ2LW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Now follow this guide to put it together:

https://learn.adafruit.com/lightsaber-featherwing/circuit-diagram

We're not using a neopixel, so don't worry about that part. Just stick with the LED wiring. This part will take experimentation, so take your time and test-test-test. This guide will help with additional wiring and coding questions:

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-prop-maker-featherwing

Now use this code if you're doing a color changing blade. If you're not, you can keep the code as is, and just manually set the saber color you desire:

https://github.com/robert1233/lightsaber/blob/master/code.py

And you should be good to go! I'm still working on perfecting the code. I'm still learning as well, but this works. The guide I based this off is:

https://learn.adafruit.com/lightsaber-featherwing/software

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Features: micro-USB charging, color changing blade, sound and motion sensor for: startup, shut down, idle, swing, clash. Light up power button.

Cons: This has only been tested with a full-size ultrasabers blade. The LED could be brighter. I'm still working on that.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Tips:

Sound files that I used can be found here. Use at your own discretion:

https://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=41379.0

The hardest part of this build is the soldering. If you are comfortable with that and you are willing to do some reading, this is very easy to do. I had pretty much no electronic background and was able to figure all this out in about a month.

Make sure you use the short headers for soldering the feather and wing together! This is very important or the microcontroller may not fit into your hilt! Test twice, solder once.

Don't veer off the wishlist. Everything I picked is low profile and allows for maximum space and flexibility. I went with as much plug and play as I could. The battery, speaker, and charger are all plug-ins. The LED, power button, and color-changing potentiometer require soldering.

If you are going the color changing route, you may have to drill a hole wherever you want the color-changer to be.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I'll upload photo's whenever I can. Like I said, I'm working on finding a better lighting source, so right now everything is taken apart.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I take no responsibility if you shock, burn, or stab yourself; or ruin your lightsaber or any electronic components. This is a guide on how I made the inside of my lightsaber and no more.

u/ENGR001 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Edit: Please make sure you turn off and unplug your power supply before cutting any wires.

Parts / tool list below, this what i used but there are substitutes out there.

Note: Main thing that is slightly challenging is soldering the XT60s, basic idea is to “tin” (soldering term) the wires and the XT60s first, then heat the connector with your iron as you put the wire in to get a good fusion. Decent video on soldering them:solder XT60s


My soldering Iron:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZRT4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Flux:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ZIV85A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder (60-40)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G1J3W6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New XT-60’s and Shroud:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PN6N4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Helping Hands (not required, but def helpful)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB38X8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought this a while ago, but any heat shrink will do:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA3OFA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire - If you’re new to soldering and need practice, or you’re going to split your cables for Rasberry Pi, or other components, etc:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABOPMEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Marcubus · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah, I used a formlabs printer to resin print the tops and bottoms separately. I sanded with 400-3000 grit sandpaper in addition to using autobody spray paint filler, to help get a smooth finish.

In terms of room inside...there isn't much. BUT, if you use the proper wires (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00GWFECWO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) it's tight, but not a huge issue. Just take into account that you want NO slack wire hanging around in there.

u/DarthValiant · 2 pointsr/DIY

Nice shelves. Wiring is no more scary than a circular saw. Also, forgo the wirenuts and use lever locks instead. http://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395775496

u/jpope777 · 2 pointsr/RTLSDR

FWIW, I first used an old set of rabbit ears with my dongle (along with a mcx to f adapter) when I first got it. While it is certainly not optimal, it works well enough for broadcast FM and my local police/fire/EMS.

u/ConsistentlySlippery · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

Electrical tape or heat shrink.

I find it funny but understandable that the things that break and don't get fixed are the things that can be fixed for <$5.00 if people only knew what to buy or what to use. It's easy to know you need a new chair, but it's harder to know it's wobbling because of a small loose screw. So the little things fall into the category of not broken enough to need a new dishwasher but inconveniently broken. There's nothing Sugru can do that you can't find a better solution for in the adhesive aisle of a hardware store.

u/Thomcat316 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Ditch the converter for a NOCO battery charger/maintainer. You will thank yourself later. This one does fine with a 55Ah AGM battery. Also, don't use a wet cell battery unless it's in its own box outside the trailer.

I like your fuse block. I fused the battery feed to mine at 30A, and sized the wire accordingly - 10AWG boat cable would be perfect. All the fuses in my Blue Sea Systems fuse block are 10A and under.

Grab some LED voltmeters and mount one inside and one near your fuses. And one in your car, and....

Unless you need a separate distro bus, I'd skip that. I am using Wago 221-415 connectors as mini bus bars as needed - run a wire from the fuse panel into the cabin, then up to four additional circuits from that point - lights, etc.

You will find that your main switch panel is less functional than you hoped it would be. I recently removed mine. Individual switches at point of contact are much more user-friendly.

We loved our Fantastic Fan, and I've heard great things about Maxx Fans, but we went back to a solid roof with vent fans in the galley bulkhead.

Multicolored LED strips are fun! We are currently installing two circuits of them in the galley. When you set yours up, make sure you install a controller with non-remote controls. We have had some of the remotes fail, and at least one of them couldn't be replaced. Superbright LEDs currently has a stunning deal on one that fit our needs.

LED strip channels are a good idea. Also get the long clips, which hang on to the channel better.

Your under-cabinet lighting is probably on a 12V wall-wart. Cut it off and hook the LED strips right into your 12V system.

For wiring, get a spool each of 22AWG, 18AWG and 14AWG tinned copper cable; molded cable (lamp cord style) is acceptable. We have used Wiremold NMW1 raceway and surface mount boxes to keep things simple and tidy. Where things turn corners we leave the wires exposed instead of going nuts with the corner and tee fittings.

u/Joey__stalin · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6

They sell them at every auto parts store in the country. A few different variants on wiring. Look up how to wire a relay, not too hard. You will need to get an ignition-tied 12 volt signal from somewhere, yes you'll have to tap into the factory wiring but there are a million places to do this behind the dash/fairing/gauges/ignition.

u/BlazeDemBeatz · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

i can appreciate a real hardwood floor...

https://www.amazon.com/ThreeBulls-240pcs-29-5mm-18-5mm-Battery/dp/B01I6OU8YY/ref=lp_15069575011_1_2?srs=15069575011&ie=UTF8&qid=1493095501&sr=8-2

amazon prime, you can have em in 2 days... and youll have enough wraps for a lifetime, and enough to give out to others who need them...

u/Dinohrm · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You can solder or there are a variety of solderless connectors out there. A lot of people take the opportunity while they're replacing the fan to add in some type of connector (JST is popular and fine for something low current like a fan) to make any future swaps easier. If you're a bit timid about soldering you can use something like this - solder shrink connectors. I've never used them but have seen folks on another printing group recommend them. They're pretty much just shrink wrap with a bead of solder in the middle, you just stick the two wires in and heat. It solders and shrink wraps them all in one easy step.

u/elkster88 · 2 pointsr/Fixxit

If you don't have enough slack after cutting off the original connectors, just crimp butt splice some wire of the same gauge onto the loose wires you cut, then cover with glue-filled heat shrink. If you can't find uninsulated crimp splice connectors at the local store, just heat up the insulated ones with a heat gun until the plastic softens then pull the metal inside out of the plastic sleeve.

Make sure whatever Weather Pack connector you use, it's sized to accept the proper gauge wire. Trying to force larger wires into smaller gaskets and pins will ruin your project.

u/micro0637 · 2 pointsr/electricians

This picture shows a pigtail connection.

Basically, you will join all the black wires, and all the white wires together using a cap or better yet, a set of these. in those groups you will also add a new ~5" section of wire to connect the outlet.

I wouldn't suggest trying to get all 3 sets of the current wires to the outlet, because if you dont get it tight enough you have a point of failure. ARC = Fires

u/thatgermanperson · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Oh I see. Well you could just rewire it. It really isn't difficult, especially if you don't care about the looks.

Cut cables (either all or just the two you want to swap), change positions of GND and mic and attach, done.

You don't even have to solder, screw or twist the cables together if you use something like this.

u/LaughsTwice · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Here is a small diagram i threw together for soldering in an additional fan into power pads beneath the board. I have switches in here because i plan on having a switch for the part cooling fan so i can turn it off when i want to print ABS parts.

Also, get these connectors so that you only have to solder one + wire and one - wire to the mainboard, strip 11mm of wire and plug the + into one connector and the - into another connector. Now you have the ability to add 4 accessories like extra fans or LED lighting.

u/MrDriftwood · 2 pointsr/arduino

Do you mean how to connect the 2 sets of 4 wires and cover it so it looks clean?

I do this - The 4 wires are all soldered together and then individually taped with electric tape or covered with heat shrink and then the whole thing is covered with heat shrink tubing.

u/mandreko · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

u/houtex727 · 2 pointsr/cars

So... I have to ask... did you know a resistor and a relay are completely unrelated functionally? As in, resistor resists, adding a load to the circuit, (for various reasons needed) and a relay uses a signal from one circuit to complete a wholly separate, circuit.

Therefore, I don't know why you'd use a resistor in place of a relay. Like, at all. Perhaps I need enlightenment there... :)

As far as what relay, in a car, a standard 12v car 'box' relay will do. This one's cool, it comes with a socket it plugs in to. These are cheap and just lying around in any auto parts store, however, and you can use female spade terminals if you want and just bolt it in somewhere handy.

Don't forget either an inline blade fuse holder or an AGC one, and I'd fuse it for, oh, 5 amps. Shouldn't need much, just make it fast blow, and enough amps to ensure the lights won't blow it, but it'll blow in a short. LEDs shouldn't need a big fuse, really.

Hope that helps ya.

u/2k4s · 2 pointsr/modular

just to expand on my other post because I didn't have all the links at the time. Hopefully this helps others too. Feel free to add to this if there are better solutions than these.

MeanWell RT-65B power supply keep in mind that the -12v rail is only good for 500ma. check your modules in modular grid to make sure you don't need more than one of these power supplies. it's super easy to wire the power supply to a busboard but if you don't feel comfortable doing it you'll have to get something like a Zeus power supply.

Vector rails TS-600 is the best value if you are building a large case or want to build more later or if you want to sell your leftovers on Reverb or whatever. You can use these screws to attach the vector rails to the case or the spacer strips.

Rail nuts these are the square nuts that slide into the rails (only for vector rails) they require M2.5 screws 6mm is a good length unless you have some thick acrylic panels on your modules or something like that. you can alternatively use threaded strips but they will cost a little more and I'm not a fan. Not all modules have their panel holes in the appropriate place and sometimes it causes a problem because the threaded insert holes are fixed in one place.

Panel mount plug w fuse you'll need to do a little wiring on this one. match the fuse value to the power supply overall amp draw. Don't go too much over. the fuse is supposed to blow if too many amps go through the case. Having too large value of fuse defeats the purpose.

I like this busboard and they also have the cheapest (Warning! see edit) 3U sideplates although I don't see why you can make your own or maybe even go without them. MDLRCASE actually has some great values on the larger cases too if you decide not to DIY. If you are in the USA shipping is quite an expense though.EDIT: the 3U side plates do not work for vector rails, they are the wrong spacing. They only work for the rails which they sell which are different. So, if you are using vector rails, don't buy these. The busboards are still cool)

If you decide to go for the flying bus cable

build notes:

Each 3U (height of one eurorack space) is approximately 5.25" (133.35mm) but the modules are mostly less than 130mm tall. so you can build the height of a 3U rack so the the interior dimension from wood to wood is 5 1/4" exactly and you'll be fine.

Don't cut wood until you have your rails and spacers or at least rails and a blank panel or module installed so that you will know the exact width you will need for the rails.

Be aware of the depth of your modules and factor the space for the power supply and busboard. don't make the case too shallow or some modules may not fit. Modulargrid is your friend for this and the power draw.

There will be wall level voltage inside your case, so make sure you route those cables neat and secure them well. Cover them if possible and don't let stray screws and stuff fall in there. If they do, power off and get them out. Use blank panels to cover unused spaces. Obviously power off and unplug when installing modules.









u/ThatOnePerson · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You could wire it to a switch. The maker select comes with one like this for example.

Another option is to switch the power supply to an ATX one ( Computer power supply). Then you can either way a switch to turn it off and on, or use something like a raspberry pi to turn it on through wifi which is awesome.

u/TheSov · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

i've had this problem many times.

its almost certainly that your wires are making intermittent contact. i've had to replace my bed sensor wiring and power wiring about 4 times.

once however my actual temp sensor cracked in half and i had to replace it with a 100k thermistor.

https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-Thermistor-Temperature-Sensor-Printer/dp/B018QL5LPI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397650&sr=8-4&keywords=100k+thermistor
here are the thermistors and as for the wiring, if thats what it turns out to be(most likely is)

sensor wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01708AYYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

power wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TG1TRL2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i also recommend using https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397789&sr=8-5&keywords=wago+connector

for the wiring inside the unit, so that your wiring can be replaced easily without buying a new wiring harness.

u/growawayduh · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I'm using Cree CXB 2540's @ 3000K since i wanted better distribution and thought 3590's would be overkill (what people typically go with). Used a heatsink like this to mount each LED (with Ideal chip-lok holder, tapped two holes at 3mm and used some thermal paste) and then just wired them up to a driver using some wago connectors.

Hope that helps :)

u/bal00 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Hm, it's not very complicated though. If you cut the cable, there are 8 wires inside: 3 black ones, 3 yellow ones, a blue one and a red one.

You connect all the black ones and the blue one together and wire those to the negative wire of a socket like this. Then you take the three yellow ones, connect them together and wire them to the positive wire. Done.

If you're not sure how to connect the wires together, these are more or less perfect for the job. Maybe you can find them locally.

u/runwichi · 2 pointsr/BossKatana

Sure. You can do it a couple ways -

  1. Connect the EVH 5150iii FX Send OUT to the Katana 100's FX Return, which bypasses the Katana's preamp (make sure you set up the FX loop in the Kanata/Tone Studio so that you have access to all the FX slots) and use the SS Power Amp side to drive the Katana's speaker. NOTE: The EVH 5150 iii is a Tube amp, so you MUST have a load on the amp (speaker or dummy/attenuator load) hooked up to the speaker out before doing this. Not doing it will break something important in the EVH, and it will cost you money.

  2. Disconnect the speaker leads from the Katana's speaker and hook up a speaker cable that connects to the EVH 5150iii's speaker out. Select the proper impedance from the EVH's cab selector, and you'll essentially use the Katana 100 as an open back cabinet for the 5150iii head. The 5150iii lunchbox is only 15W, so you'll not have any issues overpowering the Katana 100's speaker. NOTE: IF YOU DO THIS, consider replacing the cheap spade connectors that are currently on the Katana's speaker hook ups. IF THESE CONNECTORS TOUCH EACH OTHER AND THE KATANA IS POWERED ON, YOU WILL BLOW THE KATANA'S AMPILIFER, which will render your Katana dead.

    I HIGHLY recommend cutting off the cheap female spades that are on the Katana's speaker leads and replacing them with some crimp on INSULATED female spades like these:

    https://www.amazon.com/Yueton-100pcs-Insulated-Terminal-Connectors/dp/B010GWZOUW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3X943RD62DVH2NFTZ8RZ

    You can find them at any hardware store, and will protect the spades from touching each other if you accidentally turn the Katana on without having the leads connected to a speaker and prevent them from shorting between each other and damaging your Katana.
u/fearthelettuce · 2 pointsr/bassfishing

Credit to this youtube video for the idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xfy2Ae_9tTQ

I've been trying to find a way to Texas rig a Ned Rig to make it weedless and have had trouble finding some affordable light wire hooks with a bait keeper. I found the above linked youtube video and tried it out this evening and it seems to work great! I picked up a variety pack of heat shrink tubing from Harbor Freight for $5. The smallest size, 5/64", worked best and you could definitely go smaller to 1/16" or maybe 3/34" and it might even hold a bit tighter. I tried it with a TRD and it worked fine, I just cut the top/outer corner so it was easier to get the plastic over

Sorry if this is old news but just wanted to share this very cheap way of adding a bait keeper.

Edit: I just looked on Amazon and found this pack of heat shrink tubing: https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs-Shrink-Adhesive-Tubing/dp/B073R69KNB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525832477&sr=8-3&keywords=adhesive+lined+heat+shrink+tubing+1%2F16 I would expect that it would work better being a 3:1 shrink ratio and also is adhesive lined which I don't think the HF tubing has.

u/SplatterQuillon · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Yup, I bought a 240 pack in all different colors, and just give them away, and help apply them for anyone I know who might need one.

u/MusikPolice · 2 pointsr/RTLSDR

Somebody on the IRC channel pointed me towards this item, if anybody else has the same issue.

u/MrSurly · 2 pointsr/electronics


Facts as I understand them (which may not match reality):

  • You have a battery pack that has a barrel jack (female)
  • The polarity of the battery pack barrel jack (knick knack patty whack) is positive center
  • You have a device with a barrel jack
  • The polarity of the device's barrel jack is negative center.
  • You have a double-ended wire with barrel plugs (male) on both ends that is currently wired "straight through"; i.e. center connected to center, outside connected to outside.
  • This wire fits both the battery and the device physically.

    If all of the above are true:

  • Look closely at the wire. It's likely (though not certain) that one wire has a white stripe, or a ridge or some other identifier. If it does not, mark one of the wires (with a sharpie, or similar) along it's entire length, or otherwise ensure that you can identifiy the wires after you cut them.
  • Cut the wire. I usually give myself some space; DO NOT cut the wire right next to the barrel plug.
  • How you re-connect the wires depends on your available tools, supplies, and skill. The best would be to put heat-shrink on each conductor, on one side, do an inline soldered splice, then slide the heat shrink down over the new connection and shrink it. Or you could use insulation displacement connectors ("IDC"), wire nuts, or even crimp connectors (crimping can be surprisingly hard to get right). Under no circumstances should you use black "electrical" tape. Wire nuts are probably the easiest, provided you get the correct size, but are ugly and bulky.

    And finally to answer your question:

    Only do the wire swap once. If you have a ohmmeter, you can check this by confirming that the outside of one end is electrically connected to the inside of the other. You should also confirm that the outside and inside are not connected to each other, or else you're going to have a bad time.




    P.S. Barrel connector is also known as a coaxial power connector.
u/ConcernedKitty · 2 pointsr/OpenPV

I was thinking about this last night. If you're just using one handset just use this rather than a switch on the front side of the switching power supply. It actually eliminates a component and just turns the whole system off rather than letting the supply run.

u/golden_in_seattle · 2 pointsr/arduino

> I use a RTC break-out chip for keeping track of time

As I mentioned in my other post, I first tried this route and gave up. I just let the "real" home automation controller do the scheduling as it was significantly easier to make schedule changes.

One other thing I should have mentioned that you might want to include just because why not.... Get a one-wire temperature probe like this one and wire it up to a display like this. If you do go the home automation route, you can "broadcast it" so to speak using a plugin like this.

BTW, if you don't want to live in the apple ecosystem, there is also HomeAssistant (/r/homeassistant). You can run it on a raspberry pi. I'm pretty sure there is also equivalents for whatever google's home automation solution is but I can't speak to that...

u/a0-c · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWFECWO
Cheap, multicolor.

Real kynar insulated wirewrap wire is much nicer and the insulation does not melt like this vinyl stuff does, but it's expensive.

u/Man_of_Many_Hats · 2 pointsr/hobbycnc

limit/home switches if you want them (you should)

an e-stop - you probably have this

fan for the electronics case

power switch/plug for the power supply - you probably have this

connectors for wires (eg to get e-stop and limit switch wires into the case and connected. I use xlr plugs like These and these.

I also use these to help with wiring the limit/home switches in the case, but you may not need them, depending on what you use.

u/AlchlcFraggingMachin · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

A few weeks ago I used the marine heat shrink on my sparrows picks since I didnt have any success with Plasti Dip. I does feel nice, and I don't think ive lost any feedback or sensitivity on them.

For anyone who's interested here's what I used, I just needed to trim them to the appropriate length:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R69KNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/BrutalGT · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

On This Guide it only shows it being done to the Power which I found weird. You did it to the "Hotbed" one next to that as well?

That guide also suggests getting this Heat Shrink but that is included with the connectors?

Thank you very much for the information, that is very helpful!

u/UniversalAwareness · 1 pointr/CasualConversation

No, it doesn't matter at all, you just need a 12 volt power source like the cigarette lighter receptacle. There are also a lot of car modification shops if you want someone to do the installation for you.

If you want to just get one of the inexpensive backup cameras from Amazon you should check out some video tutorials to get started. Some people power the camera off of the reverse light (you know, the white lights on the back of cars when they go in reverse). That means that the camera stays off until you go into reverse. Personally I just leave my camera on, so I power everything off of my Cigarette Lighter Receptacle. Here are the parts I used:

A camera and monitor.

A cigarette lighter receptacle adapter.

A terminal strip. (This connects the cigarette receptacle to the camera and monitor).

Extension cable to connect your camera to your terminal strip.

Wire crimp connectors to connect the camera to your extension cable.

Optionally, but recommended: A cigarette receptacle splitter so you have extra power ports.

Sorry if my way of doing it is a little hacky, but it works. Let me know if you have any questions.

u/scratchr · 1 pointr/headphones

I don't know if your IEMs are different, but when some older ones I had failed, there was no good way to access the cable. (The unit was press/glue fitted together. From a quick search, the ones you have don't look much better.) I recommend that you buy a soldering iron kit and solder the wire back together instead of replacing the cable. Heat shrink tubing is recommended to prevent the same cable from failing in that location again.

Those cables are covered in varnish, so twist them together and then use the soldering iron to burn off the varnish while you solder the two wires together. If using heat shrink, use 2 layers: one for the inner wires, then one for the entire cable. You can shrink heat shrink with a lighter or a heat gun.

u/Hotrian · 1 pointr/HTCVive

Here is how NASA would splice that wire :). All you need is a decent soldering iron and a little bit of solder. Do it outside, especially if you are using lead based solder. A little heat shrink tubing and you can have that cord back in working order, even if it's a tiny bit shorter :).

There should be two wires inside that cord though: one for positive, and one for negative- make sure not to let these wires touch each other!

u/villageidiot33 · 1 pointr/cade

Sure no problem. You can probably find them a tad cheaper on ebay but I got them from Amazon. You might be able to use the Jamma harness you have already if it didn't melt. But I'd just a buy a new one. If you need help wiring up after you get the stuff let me know. I'll snap few more pics of how I go it wired up.

Power Supply

Jamma Harness

Module Plug

u/MGJon · 1 pointr/littlebritishcars

I'll have to go check, but they're standard 12v automotive relays. They look similar to these, which are actually cheaper. So, never mind, get them from Amazon.

u/brict · 1 pointr/razer

Nonononono. No aluminum foil.

First, you'll need some heat shrink tubing of the appropriate size.

http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-SHRINK-SLEEVES-ASSORTED/dp/B005W42SW2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1463080614&sr=8-7&keywords=heat+shrink+tubing

Then, you should trim the cable a bit on both ends to clean up the messy ends.

Next, cut open the cable sleeve the wires are in, and strip the ends of the wires. Put a piece of shrink wrap tubing large enough to fit on the outside of the entire cable along one end of the cable. You'll use that later.

Then, you'll have cables that look like this

}=]--

} is the sheath

= is the covered wire

] is where you stripped the wire

-- is the naked wire

Take one of the wire, and push the shrink wrap tubing up it. Then, take the two stripped ends of matching wire and solder them together so that they overlap a bit.

}=]-@--@-[={

@ are the solder points

Move the shrink wrap tubing over the soldered wire and hit it with a hair dryer until it tightly covers the exposed wire.

Do that with each of the wires. Test that the cable works.

Once you have confirmed it is working, take the shrink wrap tubing you put over the whole cable sheath, bring it over area that no longer has sheathing (where your wires were soldered and shrink wrapped) and hit the tubing with a hair dryer to seal it up.

You should be good to go. I left out the mesh tubing or additional insulation for the newly heat shrunk wires, but you could add that as well - not something I am familiar with.

u/bigj231 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Any wire you have will work. You can even use some spare CAT5 or cut up one of those telephone cords you seem to get with everything. Then just get a momentary switch. If you can solder, the rest is stupid easy.

To avoid trying to find connectors and crimp them, I would just extend the wires. If you don't want to mess with them, buy some scotchlok splices: http://smile.amazon.com/UY2-3M-Scotchlok-Butt-Connector-Pack/dp/B0076AY6J8 Just shove the 2 wires in and pinch with pliers. Takes longer to cut the wires than it does to splice them. If you talk nice to the installer for your internet/phone, he may have some that will fall off the truck.

u/nicholas040 · 1 pointr/headphones

I have the same setup! I have q701's, so I hang them by the top wires.

I had some heat shrink that I put over the metal, just to give it a little extra protection from rubbing.

u/AXISMGT · 1 pointr/teslamotors

Nice find Op!

Might want to look into heat shrink the keep those clips together.

Ginsco 580 pcs 2:1 Heat Shrink Tube 6 Colors 11 Sizes Tubing Set Combo Assorted Sleeving Wrap Cable Wire Kit for DIY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFA3OFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uU53AbJP0KQHA

u/google_fu_is_whatIdo · 1 pointr/ebikes
u/andreophile · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this exact set from Amazon. You'll need the 1.5 mm (approx 1/16") heatshrink tubing from the set. My original comment has a link to the tutorial, which mentions the dimensions as well.

u/desrtfx · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.

I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:

u/Comedyfight · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Honestly, that's sort of my biggest hangup. I don't even own a soldering iron, and if I get one, I'll need to practice on junk electronics before I try to do something I can use. I do have a bunch of these though.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=lp_16347583011_1_1?srs=16347583011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499343102&sr=8-1

u/uncutflguy · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The connectors he used are 3M Scotchlok IDC connectors. They make wiring stupid easy, and I actually used them on my printer's replacement fan because I was lazy. You just slide red in, and red out into one, and crimp with pliers. Same for the ground wires. No wire stripping needed.

u/SmileAndDonate · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners


Info | Details
----|-------
Amazon Product | 3M Scotchlok IDC Butt Connector, 100 Pack Yellow
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.

u/Crailberry · 1 pointr/ECE
u/Yago20 · 1 pointr/Phillylist

If I'm understanding your issue correctly, someone in the past cut out the plastic connector that would fit into the stock unit, leaving you with just wires. If that is the case, you will need a meter to help you figure out the wires. in a pinch, a 9 volt battery can be used to figure out which speaker is which (really not good for the speaker, but it does work).
Strip the ends of all wires and twist them together. Electrical tape works in a pinch, as do wire nuts, but really I'd opt for heat shrink tubing cut to size before you twist the wires together. A hair dryer should work to shrink the tubing since you probably don't have a heat gun lying around the house.

u/gimpwiz · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

---

In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

u/Grim-Sleeper · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If it doesn't have to be something that can be disconnected easily, then this might work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0EZBYQ

Practice on some spare wires first. Takes a bit of trial and error, but then works great.

Not being able to disconnect might be against code. But then, it's only low voltage. So, probably not a big deal

u/InTherapy · 1 pointr/homedefense

3M Scotchlok IDC Butt Connector, 100 Pack Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0076AY6J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_nUp4BbHPMPP0X

u/TurnbullFL · 1 pointr/electrical

Wago lever nuts are the way to go.

I'll even give you a link to the 5 port ones:
20 Amp 5 port.
30 Amp 5 port.

u/MrBobDobalini · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

"I'm so pissed off. Who's gonna replace my brand new ruined batteries? I have no way of wrapping them myself. If I added tape to my battery they will 100% not fit anymore into the mods."

YOU ARE.

Fucking woe is me, man.

Go on amazon and get some battery wraps, here's 240 in assorted colors for $10. https://www.amazon.com/ThreeBulls-240pcs-29-5mm-18-5mm-Battery/dp/B01I6OU8YY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538600861&sr=8-4&keywords=18650+battery+wrap

Enjoy!

u/backupthetruck · 1 pointr/boating

The 7-pin connector is specifically for trailers with brakes or other power requirements. The 4-pin connectors control lights only, the extra pins on the 7-pin actuate the breaks and provide extra power for things like charging breakaway boxes or running RV refrigerators.

Being a 40-foot trailer, I don't see how there is any way that it would not weigh enough to require brakes, no matter the state. There would be no way to rewire the trailer to use a 4-pin connector and actuate the brakes. Even having a 7-pin connector on the truck would be no guarantee that the brakes are being actuated - most require an aftermarket brake controller be wired in.

If you are comfortable with the lack of braking and just need to do short pulls, it would be a relatively simple process to parallel a 4-pin connector onto the 7-pin trailer wiring so that you could at least have lights. Something like this:

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Wesbar/W787268.html?feed=npn&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiPG_r8G_4AIVQ1YNCh3MwwHPEAQYASABEgKr5_D_BwE

with these

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Terminals-Self-stripping-Insulated-Disconnects/dp/B01CDWC60Y

​

Your lights would work and you'd avoid the attention of the fuzz, but I'd be careful about running around without brakes on a 40-foot trailer very often.

Good luck!

​

EDIT: I ran across this that would solve your problem too, I think. A little clunkier, but plug and play. Same issue with not actually having brakes, though.

https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Mighty-Cord/A10-7084VP.html

u/Stuck_in_a_depo · 1 pointr/cade

Power Switch - in case anyone else wants one.

u/theslothening · 1 pointr/Tools

I don't have any experience with any other crimpers than the ones I mentioned above but these are pretty highly rated. You might also consider using heat shrink/solder butt connectors. I've got the kit I linked to here and have been impressed with it. You will need a heat gun though but no crimping involved. Just use enough heat to melt the solder and shrink the heat shrink .

u/Emmo213 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I can run with that I think. By using a relay like this (https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6) I should be able to tie the 12v that starts the pump to the contacts 30(+) and 85(-), wires to the sensor to 85(-) and 87(+), and connect the 30(+) to 86(+) to trigger.

u/lxlqlxl · 1 pointr/folgertech

Wow.. this is easily the longest reply I have ever gotten. I have replied much longer before but yeah.. Not complaining at all thanks for taking the time to write it. I will reply as I read through.

Wiring for me I have never been all that hesitant to. I have been hit with 120 a few times and it's mainly a burn for me. The one that really surprised me though was taking apart a blender and well I had shorts on and you can touch one wire and be fine just not both unless you and the wiring are grounded of course. Anyway I was on my bed and one wire was touching my leg and the other I grabbed with my hand... So that was an interesting experience.

I am the type that will take one of those cigarette lighters that electric spark? take off the guard, put your thumb over it and go... clicky clicky...

As for the JST bit I appreciate the links. I am familiar with them and how to do that I just never have. I would need a reason to get them, maybe this is it? But the wago or other lever type connectors seem to be easier and or cheaper. I will figure it out when it gets here.

> personally I mangled the connector housings and pins on my stepper cables trying to swap pins over.

Yeah I think you need the pin remover. I was watching a few youtube videos about it, and well here I believe is the one I watched. Relevant portion is at the 7:05 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhU0D7fDR98 It's called an extraction tool, or extractor. There are quite a few different ones for different applications. If I got into solderless pin connections that's one of the things I would buy.

So for me going that kind of connector route would be about 10 or so for the extractor, 20 for the crimper, maybe 10 or so for the connectors. But let's say it was just 30 or so total. Ok... or I could go with the wago lever connectors for 15 and could splice 50 sets of wires that could be undone with a flick of a lever. It's not as nice looking as a connector but it's still doable. Also knowing me, I'd still throw some heat shrink tubing onto the crimped pins. But I already have that and a heat gun.

>Building a cat proof mdf enclosure for the printer so I can take it home within the next month or so is on the cards.

I plan on copying the corner bracing and modifying those. Well I want to replace all the melamine parts eventually but yeah. The idea would be to modify those in a way I could easily attach side and top panels. Likely something like 1/4" plexi glass. I don't like how the socket caps stick out, so I would use countersunk screws to make the screw head flush with the printed brace. Then either on the back side hollow out a section for a neodymium magnet for each corner and do the same for the plexiglass, or maybe thumbscrews? Or possibly just make it so it's like the side of a PC case where it slides in and out The top would likely be semi permanent and attached with screws but the sides would be like just slide the panel up and take it off that way. The front maybe the same way or use hinges or whatever. I don't think I will print any ABS I hear enclosures could help with that. My main reason for doing it is dust. Dust I hear can mess up prints so keeping it enclosed may help with the quality.

For me an MDF enclosure would be really easy to do, I may do that as a frame then attach plexi to the outside and just have a box that goes over it? but that to me seems like cheating and or wasted space... also no challenge. I like challenging myself so unless I absolutely need it and I can't figure out the other bit then maybe? But what I have in mind should be relatively easy to do.

About the router stand... Looks good, but I must admit when I read "router", I thought of like an actual router well the woodworking kind.

The CTC-3D clone? or? I haven't looked into those so I am not very familiar. I am mainly interested in kits not fully working right out of the box... and you answered that later in the post... nice.

The fan bit. I plan on tinkering around a lot with that well the shroud bit. I have thought of an experiment to try to test out which ones are better, and I will throw in different speeds, different nozzles as well and document the process. I will take a few that others have designed, and design some of my own to see how they differ in performance. The test will be of multiple prints of a similar object, essentially 2 poles at varying distances, like half an inch up to say 3 to 5 inches or however long to see how far each can bridge the gap with little to no sagging. Then maybe ledges at varying lengths.

As for the V6 clone bit. I already bought one of these J-Head V6 Bowden and an MK8 Bowden feeder. I primarily got those to see if I like the bowden setup over the direct. If I find out I like the direct I will probably get this. If I like the bowden bit I think I could still get that one and just change out the heat sink and use the other bits. Either or fun times ahead.

>Or even the new e3d aero if you don't want v6 style eating into your build height.

If I need more build height, I can just get some longer rods, and some longer 2020's and extend it out. My main thing is I wanted 12"^2, since this is like 15.75" unless it takes 3.75" more of build height away I don't think I will fret too much.

>Definitely use the stock for a few months

A few months is an eternity for me. Maybe it will take that long to get built and dialed in? Who knows... Either or... the plan is to get the printer from kit form built and working and at least functional with prints. The only "change" will likely be with a 12x12 glass or mirror bed. Once it's up and running and I have a base to work from that I know works. Then I will change it over to bowden with the ones I linked and try that out for a while. Then decide whether I want to get the e3d one or not. The only reason I'd get the e3d one is the socks which I could buy seperate and the hotend tube. If I could find that bit seperate I probably wouldn't buy the complete kit. I know I can buy the "clone" version but the teflon tube is used as a liner and I'd like it to potentially be able to get up to around 300c without worrying about that liner melting. I also plan on getting some stainless nozzles and maybe... just maybe one of the tungsten ones. Not necessarily to use with this printer but likely the one that I design and build after this one. Think multiple independent extruders(not sharing the same block), and large... er build volume. I won't get too much into that idea right now though.

>I'd say the z axis rods are the one part of this built machine that is a little more difficult to access/disassemble easily

Yeah I'd say that looks fair. But that's also one of the selling points for me. That design looks rock solid. Even with the shitty melamine. I think once you get the binding figured out on the Z and have an idea how to do it regularly it will become less and less of a pain. As for the threaded and smooth rods, and only the threaded need to be somewhat loose? I heard it was pretty much all of them until it was aligned properly. Try loosening all of them up a little bit. Running it to the top and bottom then go to the top, tighten things down then down to the bottom then tighten. That should resolve any binding. From my understanding at least. It doesn't seem like you have tried that approach yet.

>TBH the melamine parts aren't that terrible.

Well for me I am not hugely against it but yeah. They work just not for my liking. I was initially hoping they would be actual solid melamine. But it looks like it is actually a melamine coating on top of low quality mdf. If it was actual melamine it would be a lot harder and wouldn't crush that easily. Actual melamine is a lot closer to a plastic than what that appears to be. Here in the states at least melamine is commonly put over particle board for counter tops. It's good so long as you don't get water on the edges as it will eventually swell.

As for the bracing... I assume you have home improvement stores there? If so try to find some of these if you don't want to print out new ones. Just figure out the dimensions you want with those flat corner braces and use those. You may need slightly smaller M5's but those are pretty cheap as well. Or if you have a grinder... you could knock a few MM off the ones you have.

>standard board will do the job just fine. The lure of touch/colour screens for 32 bit SBase boards isn't really for me.

I don't think I will go the touch screen route designed for these, If I go that route I will likely add wifi capability, and add a small tablet with browser functionality ;)... The reason for me, for 32 bit is 1/128 stepping, as well as quieter motors, and can be more complex without the program stuttering due to not being able to keep up with the needed calculations. With that I plan on trying to see the maximum print speed I can get and still get decent quality. Just to give you an idea. I plan on bolting it down to a heavy surface due to the inertia of the motors going side to side to keep it rock solid, that may give you an idea on how fast I am planning on cranking this or the next one up to, and yes I know I will likely need better motors and or stronger drivers and crank up the current. Maybe even a stouter belt system? Enclosed chain perhaps? Or longitudinal setup like this? http://www.technicopedia.com/8094/8094-2longitudinal.jpg, well without the extra bits.

As for the USB bit I am going to tinker around with that and SD card, I have a spare laptop I don't really use I can use for that purpose.

u/lordderplythethird · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

at first I just let them go however they wanted, as I was swapping between my HD598s and my M50Xs. However, once I decided to use my HD598s 100% of the time for my computer, I initially just threw a few zipties to hold them together, and then I eventually bought some shrink wrap like this, and used a heat gun/lighter to do a nicer job combining the cables. You could sleeve it like this for unique colors/better look

u/Danappelxx · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Oh I'm still talking about 3s - in fact this is the exact battery I'm using, but to each their own.

What kv are those motors? Also, how wide are your esc's? The size of the heat shrink depends on the size of your stuff. I believe I used this heat shrink for my esc's, but mine are pretty small. If you want to be safe I recommend a set of heat shrink such as this or this.

I personally don't use braided wire but I've herad that this one isn't too bad.

Make sure to get that power supply! It'd be a very sad thing if you get can't charge your batteries but have everything else done.

u/alwaysopenslinks · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Here is my Intro

Ill add a pic once I get out of class!

No Diggity

And on the off chance that I win, either Red Diggity or Blue Diggity

Edot: Of course I forgot haha

u/ZorzStudios · 1 pointr/DIY

Forgive me if it sounds ignorant: is junction recommended for safety/neatness or is it a technical must, as opposed to twist-on wire nuts I thought of using? If it's a must, would it be something like these (terminal blocks):

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-415-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B06XH47DC2
https://www.galco.com/buy/Bussmann/TB100-04

I'll mount the sticks on the outside of the rim, bringing the wires along the spokes to the center of the wheel.

u/popodelfuego · 1 pointr/Miata

Oh those wire into the daytime running lights and the turn signal. I used these to make splicing easy. On mine the green wire is the turn signal and the red wire is the DRL, black is ground.

u/jamvanderloeff · 1 pointr/buildapc

Extending the cables to the left/right speakers is easy, any regular speaker wire is fine. To join together permanently I'd solder the new wire on and heatshrink. Or for removable I'd use spring connectors like this https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503640678&sr=8-1&keywords=wago+connector

u/the_real_sasquatch · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Its very easy to wire these up. The first image at this link shows a good way to wire them. To do it that way, you need 10 Wago 221-415 lever nuts.

You can use thermal tape to attach the strips to your aluminum frame, if you don't want to drill a bunch of holes. That makes it a little easier to assemble.

Definitely do it yourself. If you have any questions, post them on here, or in the forums on LEDBuilder.com, and someone will help you get it wired up.

When I said "not much room for error", I meant that if one or two strips get disconnected, the driver will deliver more power to the remaining strips than their max rating. That is very unlikely to happen. So, don't worry about it much. Just make sure all your connections are good before you power it up.

u/SilentBobVG · 1 pointr/buildapc

For hiding the mustard and ketchup cables, I would recommend getting a Silverstone cable extension. You can get them in every colour, and they're compatible with every PSU. You just stick them on the ends of your PSU cables to extend them, but with a nicer colour

Like this 24pin

Unless you want to buy a new CPU cooler, there's not much you can do to hide the exposed cables of the stock one. My only idea would be to buy some Cable heat shrink wrap and cover it that way

u/youngin9494 · 1 pointr/cade

Just a chopped up power strip wired to switch with a fuse on the inside. Then the Pi, monitor, and speakers plug into the strip.

Here's the switch I used: http://www.amazon.com/URBEST%C2%AEInlet-Module-Switch-Socket-IEC320/dp/B00ME5YAPK/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1J71V15ZGET9SM4S253H

u/smallfeet_HUGETOES · 1 pointr/microgrowery

They are pc fans. I guess I am trying to find out if it is possible to use 2 of the 12v 1Amp drivers to run 3 fans at 12v and 666mA, instead of 1 driver that is currently running them at 12v 333mA to each fan. -- and keep from hitting them with 24v.

I am using wago connectors for my wiring. So if I just plugged in an additional driver, would this double the overall output to 24v 2Amps, or does it stay at 12v and just double the Amperage since each driver is only putting out 12v. ??

u/Wulf6489 · 1 pointr/gifs

I would say about $25-$30 with parts and everything. Once you have the code for one, putting it on others would be quick and simple. It would be a good option for future projects as well since you could just add other things to the board.

Screen

Temp sensor

u/Expat123456 · 1 pointr/headphones

Those earbuds have no stress relief in the connection. It is not your fault they are breaking. You just need to heat shrink for some stress relief.


Heat Shrink Tubing, Eventronic Electrical Wire Cable Wrap Assortment Electric Insulation Heat Shrink Tube Kit with Box(5 colors/12 Sizes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PCQ2LW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U6uRDb148T5HS


Method https://youtu.be/oHbgAiKBpf8

Do this to the points you feel are being tugged at. But do this for new earbuds, the old ones need to be fixed.

u/desertsail912 · 1 pointr/AskReddit

PLT: If your aglet breaks or otherwise comes off, you can repair it by cutting a piece of that plastic wire cover that shrinks when you heat it. This stuff.

u/GreyToad · 1 pointr/engineering

Thanks for the help! I don't have a background in Mech Engineering (?), but I think I understand those instructions. Would this kit of shrink tubing do the trick?

AmazonLink

u/hillmankey · 1 pointr/3dprinter

I'm guessing that the wiring diagrams you're finding are for a double pole, double throw (dpdt) switch (or similar). It appears what you have is actually a lighted switch that's single pole, single throw...I wouldn't use it in this application.

You can get a new one on amazon for <$10 or you can get another pop-in plug at your local hardware store. Since you're dealing with mains, you should leave nothing to chance, though. I suggest going out and buying a new switch which has a wiring diagram on it. For safety's sake, get a dpdt.

u/McCreggin · 1 pointr/vaporents

This is a Grasshopper GHB2 battery. Had a tear at the negative end and at the positive end. I could not find 12650 battery wraps as previously guided, nor can I find 13mm inner diameter when not flat PVC material/battery wraps.

I tried a few 18650 wraps to no avail, then tried some 13mm heat shrink tubing I have for computer wires.

This is a link for the heat shrink wraps I used. I cannot find what material they are made out of and I know that 18650 wraps are usually (or always) PVC wraps.
https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Shrink-Sleeve-Assorted/dp/B008WWC6FU/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Does anyone know if this material is good to use as a battery wrap?

u/jaxxex · 1 pointr/DIY

My thought would be to move the hunter up about a foot. I have opened mine once since i installed it..

Replace (or close up the knock outs) the HV box with a new one. Run flex out the bottom up to the hunter power.
https://imgur.com/a/iwK4rPp

Between the LV box and the hunter add another box (9x9). Splice via terminal strip in this box

Some thing like https://www.amazon.com/Position-Terminal-Postions-Insulated-Barrier/dp/B010UDG6NG

u/itsjustchad · 1 pointr/fixit

I use both this and heatshrink when I want a water tight seal.


Also pro tip for ya, you will need a 3:1 heatshrink if you have to go over a head phone jack.


https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs-Shrink-Adhesive-Tubing/dp/B073R69KNB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3%3A1+Heat+Shrink&qid=1555176527&s=industrial&sr=1-3

u/HowSR · 1 pointr/electricians

So like a “vampire tooth”-connector?

Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XIlTCbG08V4HF

u/Mithapa · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I used a dual usb with a magnetic/water resistant closure and really like it. I’ll link it later when I get home if you want. I also tied into wires instead of direct to battery they make wire tie ins that just clamp on like this:

Ginsco 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDWC60Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n4bdBbTK9RZRB

u/AbSoluTc · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Thanks guys. Again, didn’t know it was an issue. Just bought a set of wraps from amazon. Will be here Sunday. Have a heat gun so it should be smooth sailing.

ThreeBulls 240pcs 12 Color 29.5mm 18.5mm PVC Heat Shrink Tubing Tube For 18650 18500 Battery Shrink Film https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I6OU8YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S9bcBbW648CGQ

u/larrymoencurly · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

It's not good for weak signals or high current connections. If you don't want to use proper crimp joints, solder the wires inline, either by twisting the bare strands around each other or by straightening the strands and pushing them together so they interleave. With the latter, it may help to spiral wind a single fine strand of wire around the joint. Applying rosin flux to the joint before soldering can help a lot. Cover the joint with a piece of heatshrink tubing that's at least 1.5" longer than the bare area, both for insulation and mechanical support (soldered stranded wire is prone to cracking).

Another possibility is SoldaSplice. It's heatshrink tubing with a ring of solder in the middle. You insert the wires and use a heat gun to both melt the solder and shrink the tubing.

u/biscuithead710 · 1 pointr/arduino

I was under the impression that the one I was using could handle 5v? The original test on a breadboard was from 5v... I can change and hopefully didnt fry it yet if I a wrong.

u/Narcolapser · 1 pointr/arduino

I'll try to get a diagram tonight, unfortunately my tinkering time for this morning has now expired, so I must go do other things. But in short:

It's a 4 pin OLED, doesn't SPI need 3 pins to communicate? CS, CLK, and Data? Or am I mistaken in this case? (It seems I might be, as I look now, someone on that amazon page is using spi. hmmm.)

I tried putting the resisters inline as you suggested, now it is as if the screen weren't connected at all.

I currently have:

A4 -> SCL
A5 -> SDA
GND -> GND
5V -> VCC

u/iSeeker98 · 1 pointr/electricians

Ended up getting the transformerto fit in the old box. Working fine at 16V 30va setting of the transformer (vs 24V). Used 3 pairs of wire total with this heat shrink tubing and these heat shrink solder wire connectors. Thanks all.

u/DatWaggo · 1 pointr/AnetA8

PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fused Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mosfet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.

u/crippledlemming · 1 pointr/Reprap

As a fellow Mac user, who also has a prusa mendel; I would highly recommend you use OctoPrint + a Raspberry Pi 3. This may not be a just starting out configuration but it makes life a lot easier in controlling the printer.

I use Slic3r for Mac configured to talk to the OctoPrint server through an API call, and I can send gcode to my printer across the network from the Slic3r application. With the RPi camera installed I can keep an eye on my prints without having to be in the same room.

Also you may be happier with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This PSU is a bit cheaper than your standard ATX PSU, it may be a good choice if you're looking to try this hobby out as cheaply as possible. It is a more difficult way of going because you will need to print something like:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199089

To keep live 120VAC from being exposed on your bench.

Path of least resistance to getting started:

Slic3r > Repetier Host or PronterFace or Cura > Printer

The best way I've found (easiest):

Slic3r > OctoPrint

Seeing as I have the same printer and host OS configuration, feel free to DM me and I'll answer any questions you may have.

u/Lucian151 · 1 pointr/hobbycnc

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

  • https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  • https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470

    And here's the part list!

    QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
    :---------:|----------|----------
    1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
    1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
    1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
    1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
    3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
    1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
    4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
    1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
    25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
    1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
    3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
    16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
    1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
    2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
    1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
    ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
    1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
    7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
    2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS

    Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!
u/jpcapone · 1 pointr/AnetA8

I ordered an A8 and I get it this Sunday. Can you give me some more detail on the 4 things you suggest upgrading?

I looked at flashing the Marlin but do I need any extra cabling to perform the flash?

Do either of these fill the prereqs for the upgrades you mention? I ordered them as they came in a package deal with the printer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which power supply should I order? Did I forget to mention anything? I am trying to make sure I buy all of the stuff so I am ready to build on Sunday. I am gonna get a Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint as I only currently have a zero W and a Pi 4 available for use.

u/demevalos · 1 pointr/headphones

I bought this pack of 3:1 in various sizes, and it's the one in the top middle row. I'm not sure what size it is, though I'll have to figure it out soon cause I'm running out and I use that size the most. I highly recommend 3:1 when connecting things that are very different sizes (like the sennheiser connectors to the cable), it helps secure much better.

u/Obliterous · 1 pointr/RTLSDR

It depends on which dongle you have. TS9, MCX and SMA are the most common connectors I've seen.

I use this adapter on mine to connect to my QFH antenna with RG-6 coax and standard TV F connectors.

u/NlightNme23 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Sorry for the late reply. First of all, take all of this with a grain of salt. This is my first build, so I am by no means an expert. You should definitely look in to all this on your own rather than blindly trust my purchases.
Here are the tools I got in my Amazon order:

u/ColeTheSoul · 1 pointr/headphones

I bought 275 paracord and cut it to 4 equal lengths, and then took out the inner strands. Then I used 26 AWG wire, threaded it through the paracord sleeving which took a little bit of time. Then soldered the 4 ends to a 1/4 in jack. At this point I braided the 4 strands together, chose how long before my y split, then just twisted the two sets of wire and soldered the 650 terminals on. I also made sure to have heat shrink, so I bought the most popular amazon set.

u/wankerschnitzel · 1 pointr/RTLSDR

I am sorry, I have never used a dish. I did use an adapter so I could use coax cable with the dongle. This one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKG6T9I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had made the coat hanger HD antenna (look it up if you like) and had supplies for cutting it and adding ends/connectors.
As an affair of convenience I ordered other things that would let me use things I have on hand. I cannot tell you if this makes a big difference or not, but the the coax I got locally is all 75 ohm. There is 50 ohm too, but It is less common here. I am not sure it will make much of a difference. Maybe to some,but for us newbs, just get the cable man.
I bought the dongle and got it going with the mess of instructions above. Once it was working, I made the different antennas and checked them out. It seems like a lot, when you try to suck it all in. But if you go one step at a time, it is really not so bad. Go slow friend. It can work, and you will learn a bit along the way. Best wishes, I should never be considered an expert, but I have no problem talking about it all with you. I am sorry if it causes more confusion too, but we should be able to get you set up! I will try.

u/dubbedout · 1 pointr/winkhub

I don't use them for the same reasons you've stated. I prefer using the regular wire nuts, I've seen these and they look similar but more secure and maybe smaller than a large wire nut.

u/nuked24 · 0 pointsr/pcmods

Look for 3M Scotchlok connectors, I bought these about a year ago and they're soooo useful