Best interior care products according to redditors
We found 1,169 Reddit comments discussing the best interior care products. We ranked the 255 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,169 Reddit comments discussing the best interior care products. We ranked the 255 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
7 Reevaluate at this point. If it's still not up to par, post on r/goodyearwelt and r/RedWingShoes for further advice.
Or if you want to pay 3x the price and 10$ shipping you can live in Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU
Meguiars is cheap and very effective. Smells great, too!
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU
Yes, it says its for black plastics, but it works for many more colors :).
This is an awesome boot/leather shoe care kit. Good price and has everything you need.
Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.
First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.
For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!
Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.
Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!
Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!
For all circlejerk needs use Lexol leather conditioner. 1LTR of lubricating goodness.
You can fix these if you like.
Leather filler will take care of the cracking (though yours isn't bad) and a heat gun or hair dryer can be moved over the surface to shrink the leather and tighten it up in the seat and back. I'd do that before it gets much worse. There are youtube videos about it.
Also, keep the leather cleaned and conditioned regularly! I've used many different products, and this is my favorite. Leatherique is better, but much harder to use. Lexol is also quite good, but I like the Meguiar's a little better.
Edit: Forgot to mention that any leather cleaner and conditioner you use will need some agitation to really get it worked in and doing its best work.
I was a wildland firefighter for a few seasons, and we had to use full leather boots (any flammable/metal materials were too much of a liability when running through fire) and to take care of my stupidly expensive boots i used Obenauf's LP and it worked wonders. Made from beeswax and absorbed quite quickly it kept my leathers supple and durable. I still keep a tin of it around to massage into wear areas on my leather jackets and riding pants. Knees and elbows love this shit.
In regards to general care I wish I had more advice for you but this stuff makes leather happy, that I do know.
Is it sticky? If not, it's highly likely that it "stained" because it's actually conditioning the plastic, which is technically good for it. Go buy yourself a can of plastic conditioner and do all of your faded plastic. Your Jeep will shine and look newer, and you'll never be able to tell you were egged.
Edit: like this stuff. You can get it pretty much anywhere with an auto section.
(8000 edits later because I forgot how to link format...more coffee, please.)
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1115-Leather-Cleaner-Spray/dp/B0002F9YIC/ref=zg_bs_15718561_2
At the suggestion of multiple reddit users, I use this cleaner/conditioner and this brush, which have worked well enough for me.
Welcome!
Since it's turning you into a car guy...If you have the space, or even if you can borrow the space from a friend, DIY your general maintenance. It's so easy on this car.
You can do a 15-20 minute oil change without getting under the car by getting a fluid extractor like this one: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/65-liter-fluid-extractor/011885sch01a/
Maintenance schedule is here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26312
Approved Oils are here (but just use Mobil1 0w-40, its fine and cheap): http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4017
Filter part numbers are here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16502
Lots of other great info/people on golfmk7 too.
Diluted Simple Green is a good all purpose cleaner you can use. Aerospace 303 Protectant can't be beat for all the plastic surfaces and dash. Use only microfibers.
You will probably want to get Gummi Pflege to lubricate your door seals. You will want to clean them with simple green or the like BEFORE you rub the Gummi on them so that you are removing the dirt and not causing the applicator of the Gummi to get gross.
https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522191200&sr=1-1&keywords=gummi+pflege
For your tint, with the small triangle windows by the mirrors, if the shop you go to wants to charge you extra, put vinyl on the outside of them or remove trim to tint them, walk away, they aren't good enough. None of those things are necessary. Expect to pay $250-600 depending on the tint and the area you live in.
Sorry 16:9 is a looser guy. I guess we all have preferences but 16:9 sucks for web, sucks for docs, sucks for books, it's only good for video.
Someone in another article recommended the Alcantara cleaner on Amazon this is the first one I saw... didn't do a deep search.
https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494025436&sr=8-1&keywords=alcantara
Just get a can of obenaufs.
Application is easy. The only heat you need is in your hands, no weekend project. I use it on a lot of leather goods to protect and extend life. This is also made of beeswax.
More line than you think you need. Double the line. You can never have enough line.
Waterproof, powerful flashlight my recommendation
Plastic bag with a lanyard for valuables/wallets/phones/licenses. Alternatively, a pelican case.
A pair of vice grip pliers ("The wrong tool to get every job done right")
A knife, as others said. I work professionally on the water as well as boating recreationally. The Myerchin Rigging Knife is the best all purpose knife to have on board. It might be a little overkill, but when you need a line cut fifteen seconds ago, you'll be glad you have it.
A VHF handheld radio and a knowledge of what channels are monitored by the USCG (13, 16, 22A), Commercial traffic (13/16) and local police/fire departments
Spare fuses, bulbs, plugs
A Towboat US membership
A bigger, heavier anchor if you're anywhere with a decent amount of current (rivers, oceans). I'm very much a proponent of overkill when it comes to anchoring. I use an anchor way bigger than my 20' pontoon needs, and it's a tad pricey, but once I drop it and pay out the scope, I rarely worry about dragging.
Bag of cleaning supplies. Rags, paper towels, and the holy trinity of vinyl care: melamine pads, CLR Mold & Mildew, and 303 protectant
Most important item of all: A bleach bottle with the bottom cut off
2008 BMW Z4M Coupe
I can't believe I haven't posted in so long. This job is back from February.
I performed my Maintenance Package on this 2008 BMW Z4M for a client. This client emailed me about wanting a maintenance Detail on their vehicle. I informed them that this package is usually reserved for previous clients because of the cleanliness requirements (clayed vehicle). I figured worse case scenario I'd bring everything if it's too dirty and needs more stuff.
Products Used:
Wash
Wheels
Decontamination
Interior
Engine Bay
Notes
This was an eye opening experience for me about cleaning a clean car. I learned that it's difficult to make a clean car even cleaner and really focuses you as a detailer to focus on details more than the big picture.
Price: $155
Time: 3.5 Hours
Thank you for your business!
head over to /r/goodyearwelt for the skinny on shoecare regimen and products. I wouldn't use Kiwi stuff myself, but that's mostly for other reasons. Lexol is a great neutral conditioner (not that you'd need this much).
Careful magic erasers basically sand off a thin layer leaving leather and vinyl raw and it will get dirty again quick. After you use magic erasers to get everything off use some leather conditioner like Lexol to make it look like it just came out of the box. Then its protected and will look new for longer.
And don't forget the Obenauf's! Available here.
Just in case OP isn't sure what to use, this stuff keeps my Iron Rangers kickin'.
First, get a pair of cedar shoe trees to keep in the boot (you don't have to insert it all the way if you don't want)
Next, buy a horse hair shoe brush. After you wear your shoes, brush them down. If there is some stubborn dirt/grime, you can wipe them down with a damp rag, let them dry, then brush them.
Every few months, depending on how often you wear them, give them a good cleaning with Lexol cleaner, then condition them with Lexol conditioner. Let the conditioner dry, then brush vigorously.
That is literally all you need to do. No Obenaufs, no oils, nothing fancy.
Shopping list:
http://www.josbank.com/menswear/shop/Product_11001_10050_101593 (these go on sale pretty frequently for $8-$12)
http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100%25-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1408110167&sr=8-5&keywords=shoe+brush
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408110196&sr=8-1&keywords=lexol
I've posted my list before:
Car Wash Shampoo: Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II Amazon link
Quick Detailer: Chemical Guys High Gloss Spray Sealant & Quick Detailer Amazon Link
Wax/Sealant (every 6 months): Blackfire Pro Paint Protection (previously Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection) Amazon Link
Clay Bar (every 12 months): Simoniz S57 Perfect Finish Detailing Clay Amazon Link
Clear Plastics (head/tail lights): Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Protectant Amazon Link
Plastic/Vinyl/Rubber/Leather: 303 Aerospace Protectant Amazon Link
Door/Trunk/Frunk Seals: 303 (above) or Nextzett Gummi Pflege Rubber Conditioner Amazon Link
Glass: Stoner Invisible Glass Amazon Link
Wheels: Griot's Garage Wheel Cleaner Amazon Link
Tires: Aero Low Shine Rubber Care Amazon Link
There's a kit for it...and I don't know the name. I assume go to Amazon and look up trim kit.
Edit: dammit i looked it up for you:
Amazon Link
Scrub the surface with a good de-greaser and rinse it well, scrub a couple times until the suds no longer change color and apply this product and they will look like new.
Not permanent once again, but it will last longer than most (1-2 weeks).
Also contains a sunscreen.
Make sure you shake it well each time before using.
You need to put several coats.
Be careful to avoid the car's paint areas.
Aerospace 303 32-oz bottle only $8.18 on Amazon
Cheaper per oz than buying the gallon jug.
EDIT: as of 7:13pm ET 5/2/2018, it seems like the price has gone back up to $14.17
I have read (even in non-Tesla forums) that using something like this helps the window from sticking to the rubber seals.
303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JBh7Bb00V3DRV
There are many options on amazon that help with freezing. Or so they say.
I would recommend using Bickmore Bick 4 leather conditioner . Its the best stuff out there and doesn't darken leather.
Leather honey is pretty great stuff. I also like lexol leather cleaner if it's really dirty.
In any case, you should clean it and then lubricate it soon afterwards.
That looks like an older coach bag. If it is, that'll last a lifetime, or longer--I inherited a couple of my grandma's vintage coach bags from the 70s when she passed.
I got it off a post here , applied two coats of Obenaufs oil leather conditioner. Just cleaned them before application with soap let them dry for a day then applied. They look crazy nice in person. Here’s a link to the product I used. Just a tip apply quickly then remove any excess
Obenauf's Leather Oil Condition... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EAW57E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
My EDC.
Fellow male SoCal transplant here! First, get some flexible measuring tape, the kind used by tailors. Use this to measure your neck, chest, inseam, etc. Do this several times to make sure that you have a good set of measurements. Accurate measurements are key, since looser clothing means more heat leaving your body.
These measurements will make online shopping a hell of a lot easier. Winter clothes are expensive, so Amazon is your friend. I'll post a few of the things that I rely on for the coldest days below, all of which have been godsends. I have terrible circulation in my hands, feet, and ears so your mileage may vary, but you'd be surprised how much cold wind hurts your ears. My east coast native friends make fun of some of these things, but I'll take non-misery over judgment when it's ten degrees.
Carhartt makes some of the warmest, and cheapest, winter items. They're not fashionable, but they're durable and affordable. This hat is $8 and it's been warm enough to keep my ears and scalp toasty during walks to work. The Carhartt scarf is also a godsend. If you're anything like me, you never realized that a scarf actually served a functional purpose, but it'll make any coat significantly warmer by preventing heat loss. Carhartt and others sell wool socks that you'll be glad to have if you walk to work.
This next item is the dorkiest by far: an electric jacket. Just like an electric blanket with some added shame. There are some more high-end versions, but a few power tool companies make them for affordable prices. They're waterproof (ie snowproof), carry a charge for hours, and have different heat settings. [This Bosch one is $150] (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PSJ120L-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Softshell/dp/B00E1RWH72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413778229&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+jacket) and has good reviews. Milwaukee sells a newer model that also includes an in-pocket USB charger, which I recently saw at a Home Depot around here. The big advantage of the electric jacket is the heat settings: because it can be off or on low/medium/high, you're essentially carrying around four jackets. I never would have made it through Inauguration without this jacket.
Also important: gloves! Don't skimp on these. You'll want a pair that are waterproof but pliable enough that they won't make it impossible to
tie your shoes or pull out your metro card. I highly recommend these smartphone gloves. The fingertips are lined with silver threads for conductivity, so you'll be able to use your phone/trackpad in the cold. These are a great value, but they'll be the least forgiving of poor measurements so be careful to get this right!
Lastly, long underwear. I've never met a suit that kept my legs warm, so these merino wool underwear are amazing. A good pair of these will keep you warm on the coldest days but be breathable and soft enough to keep on under your slacks all day (or you can remove them at work, of course).
Most of these things are for the coldest days. You won't need anything like them most of the time, but you'll be glad when you have them. You'll also want an overcoat somewhat like this, some more stylish scarves, etc. For dress shoes, just be vigilant about cleaning the salt off! I'd never run into road salt before moving here, but there will be months where it's on all the sidewalks and it just ruins leather. Get some leather conditioner (I like this stuff) and apply it to your shoes regularly to keep them in good condition. Dry leather becomes cracked leather which becomes useless leather.
I hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Black-Restorer-Protect/dp/B0055PD1H4
I first
303 aerospace, and a microfiber towel.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510258186&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=303+aerospace&psc=1
Great job! Hope you used something other than Armor All otherwise he’s going to have a nice haze on the inside of his windshield.
Aerospace 303 is a really great product that is similar to armor all but doesn’t leave the super greasy feel or oily haze.
303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More – Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE
Buy some 303 (see link) and spray on a paper towel and wipe all the rubber that looks narly. Wait a few days and do it again. I’ve made some seriously messed up rubber and plastic look new again with this stuff.
303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More - Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EJkSDbK4MC09Y
If anyone is concerned about a cracking dash in 2019, use a UV protectant or tint your windows.
Also, Larry from Ammo NYC has some amazing videos that are worth watching that will teach you a lot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0EOb2nEWtk&t=684s
Hope this helps!
I use Bick 4, it doesn't darken leather and a little bit goes a long way--one bottle has lasted me almost two years.
These boots are seriously worth every penny you spent.
White's boots or Nicks boots are the industry standard for forestry workers and wildland firefighters. I would guess that 75% or more of the field going employees and firefighters and the US Forest Service have at least one pair of White's or Nicks.
It looks like you take good care of the leather, but for people who do not have boots or may be looking into getting a pair, make sure you are using Obenauf's Leather Oil . These boots could last another 10 if you rebuild them a few more times and continue to care for the leather.
If you want to try and treat it, there's a billion different kinds of plastic cleaner/de-clouder. It's the same stuff you use on car headlights.
Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish
Meguiars PlastX works like a charm. It's easier than toothpaste or any of these 5 step sandpaper-polishing compound kits, you just wipe it on, wipe it off and your headlights look great.
Rag Company Starter Kit - $30 - Includes wash mitt and other assorted towels needed to get started.
2 buckets from Home Depot - $6
2 Grit Guards - $18
Megs Gold Class Soap - $9
Megs Gold Class Carnauba - $11
einszett Cockpit Premium - $10
Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner - $4
Chemical Guy's APC - $10
Optibond Tire Gel - $11
Grand Total of $109
There are obviously some nicer products you could get, but this is a great start for a beginner I think.
I use Lexol:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFORK8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Another vote for "soak and wear". For my last pair of boots, I stuck them in a tub of warm water for a minute or two (making sure the inside of the boots were also thoroughly soaked), put them on over riding socks, and then wore them to work. When I got home, I thoroughly conditioned them with Passier's Lederbalsam, and ta-da, broken in boots! I have heard some people say they have to do this once or twice, but that probably depends on just how tight they are.
For a less damp option, I've heard good things about Bick 4 quickly softening and breaking boots in. Might be worth a try.
Hey, guys! A girl I went to high school with's boyfriend had her take him to get his 2 German Shepards from the vet. This horror was the result.....
In all honestly, it wasn't that annoying to clean at all. [This guy] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_S06-Professional-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U) was my go-to for this entire detail. It actually made it so easy, even when I wasn't dealing with hair. It's great for getting to dirt that your vacuum head can't get to. You can just "sweep" everything underneath the seats into a more accessible location and it's cake.
Quick process for those of you that wanna know (it's pretty much new, so I didn't have to be aggressive with anything):
I use 303 for this. They make a product specifically for rubber trim but I just use the regular protectant spray on a microfiber towel. Works well.
Meguiar's G15812 Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055PD1H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YFVOBbZXKR3GJ
Break fluid dissolves.. a lot of things.. so you may need something more aggressive to get it back to a uniform coloring. Though, I've used black plastic polish with success in spots similar to this before: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G15812-Ultimate-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B0055PD1H4
/r/AutoDetailing might be a good resource for this!
That seems to be the 4oz version. It's a better deal to get this one
This is all you'll ever need for them:
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-8-oz/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453281124&sr=8-1&keywords=lexol
The cost of cleaning and conditioning isn't really dependent on the specific shoe. Given how cheap the products used are in bulk, you're basically paying for his time.
25 bucks will get you this which should be enough to last you basically forever, and 10 bucks will get you this which is the same thing in smaller quantities.
I’ve used both Chamberlains leather milk and Obenauf’s Leather Oil. The Obenaufs is more for restoration and the leather milk is better for maintenance. Both are affordable on Amazon.
Use a cleaner that works for multiple fabrics, and not specifically for leather. Example: Car Guys has a multi-purpose cleaner that is highly rated. At $17 I feel it's a little expensive, but might be worth picking up when it goes on sale: https://www.amazon.com/CarGuys-Super-Cleaner-Effective-Upholstery/dp/B071XB18BF/
Same with the "conditioner", I use a multipurpose spray which gives the seats an additional layer, but also makes the seats sound squeaky: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KN0UOEE/
You can get replacement tires for many G1 toys. Just search Amazon for "rubber tires model car" and there are plenty of options. Just measure the size of the tires you need and find something suitable.
You can also find diecast toy cars at places like Walmart for $2-3 that have rubber tires that are compatible with some G1 toys.
You can also use some rubber seal protectant to keep the tires of your toys from drying out. Just use it sparingly.
https://www.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2
You can also get replacement tires for RID Prime on Shapeways:
I highly suggest staying away from any petroleum based product for your trim and tires. You want something that will provide UV protection and won't break down the plastic over time. 303 Products are fantastic and will extend the life of your plastic trim, tires, and rubber.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PU38A
To understand what shoe care needs: Shoe Care Guide
To clean leather products: Saddle Soap
To condition leather products: Venetian Shoe cream (VSC) or Saphir Renovateur or [Allen Edmonds Leather Lotion] (http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/cati2_ShoeCareProductss_1_40000000001_-1________subcategory#facet=&sId=216&sort=5&ps=1000&bi=0)
To "protect" leather you have 2 options:
If you're walking around in snow / rain with dress shoes: Galoshes/ Overshoes
And being more specific helps. If you live in warmer climates, Mink oil and Obenauf's are most likely unnecessary, and products like VSC and Saphir would be great.
Avoid products from DSW and most B&M stores (unless well reviewed and recommended!) and the likes as they aren't great in quality (personal experience) - and if you're spending hundreds on shoes, consider spending a few dollars more to taking care of them goes far.
Hello fellow Camaro, I like einszett products for my interior. link 1 link 2
I drive my car year round and these products work really well. The deep cleaner is of course the stronger of the two, but I've had good luck with it on my door sill plastic and my weathertech floor mats.
Mink oil will permanently darken the leather, FYI. For some, that's not a big deal. For others (myself included), darkening the leather is an undesirable outcome.
Personally, I'm a big fan of Bick 4, and I use it on most of my boots. I condition my boots 1-2 times/year, depending on their use.
gone are the days of payless.
If you're walking that much, on a budget, I'd enjoy seeing how much wear and tear you'd put on a some Chippewa Boots or Chippewa Apache The vibram sole lugged or sans lugged should do wonders in regards to comfort and durability.
with the 20% off $100+ Amazon Coupon and it's a solid frugal purchase. Code SPSHOEI4 at checkout may work as well for 20% off.
Throw some sno-seal or Obenauf's and you're set for most all terrains.
Most new tents do come with a waterproof coating. But over the years they can lose the coating, allowing the water to "wet" through the material. There are various ways you can reapply a coating, but Camp Dry is generally the cheapest and easiest... but from reports I've seen Atsko Silicone Guard works much better and I'll give that a try once my current can of Camp Dry runs out.
For shoes... it depends on the material. Camp Dry is silicone based and uses petroleum product as a thinner; it's OK for materials like tents, but it's not great for natural materials like leather, nubuck or suede. For good leather boots, I use Obenauf's Leather Protector. For nubuck or suede, they have water-based sprays, Nikwax has one and Uggs has their own which is what my wife uses on hers. Have to be careful with leather and suede since products can damage them and/or cause discoloration.
I use Camp Dry on tents, tarps and umbrellas, but don't bother with backpacks or any other camping gear.
So, first I have to say, that's the proper color for a guitar in that finish.
That said, it's your guitar, you can do with it as you see fit. It's yellowed because the outermost layer of the polyurethane finish it's coated with is yellowed. Your best best would be something like this to polish up and remove the yellowing from that outmost layer.
Definitely check in an inconspicuous area first though, it's not exactly a standardized process.
I use Meguiars Plastx to polish the scratches off slabbed coins. It's actually marketed for plastic headlights. Take a towel, but a nice dab on it, and work it in pretty hard. Doing it hard might actually leave VERY tiny hairline scratches as you get the bigger stuff out - But this only really happens with NGC plastic. Then, to get any other little scratches out from using hard pressure, put more on, a generous amount, and do a circular motion very softly then wipe the stuff off. Some deep scratches might take some time, lighter scratches take 20 seconds.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=486722KKZ1WXQGSHBB8F
Here's the stuff.
I've made crazy scratched slabs look virtually brand new.
there's also slab-renew. Never tried it but its much more expensive.
http://www.slabrenew.com/home.html
Lexol leather cleaner (orange bottle) is available at auto parts stores, walmart, amazon-Lexol Cleaner
Once its clean, it wouldn't hurt to have some conditioner around. There are many but lexol's a good product. Lexol Conditioner brown bottle.
So excited to be joining the Tesla family today (delivery in Costa Mesa this afternoon!)
I’m getting a TM3 with black interior. Does anyone know if those seats are also vegan leather, or are they real leather? Any idea if this is safe to clean the seats?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002V9IFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Are armorall wipes safe for the dashboard?
First, you should check /r/autodetailing
There's lots of options and everyone will have their favorites based on experience. One thing's for sure though, stop wiping down with ONLY water as that is probably making things worse other than getting some dirt and grime off. It makes the leather dry and prone to even more cracks. You need some sort of leather-specific PH-balanced cleaner and a conditioner to follow it.
My favorite value option that's easily sourced from your local Advance Auto/AutoZone is Lexol. Amazon has a kit that's pretty cheap for you to see if you like the results:
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA
Gliptone is also another well-liked value option:
http://www.amazon.com/Gliptone-Leather-Care-Combination-Kit/dp/B003VV423G
There are other higher end brands like Leatherique and Leather Master, but the results just didn't feel it was worth the price difference.
As for the dashboard, avoid junk like Armor All. Go with something like Einszett Cockpit Premium: http://www.amazon.com/einszett-Cockpit-Premium-16-9-fl/dp/B0002Z2MZ4
>I hear mink oil is of dubious quality and in general organic products cause the leather to more quickly deteroriate.
Mink oil and Obenauf's etc. are made for very harsh conditions - unless you're wading through the countryside, it's like putting on a scuba suit when there's a light drizzle outside. If you live in a city, you're fine. Said products will not cause a 'quick' deterioration - it's over a long period of time. They will also cause the leather to darken and lose some of its depth of color.
>What's the deal with cleaning? I'm leaning toward Saddle Soap to clean my boots. How effective is, say, using just a boot brush, regular soap, and wet paper towels to clean dirt from your boots? Can you use a clean t-shirt rag to clean?
Saddle soap dries out leather - it's soap, after all. It's overkill for regular boot care. A damp cloth or rag works fine for cleaning regular messes.
>I'm leaning toward using regular polish and no waterproofers or sealant. Do boots need polish or just shoes? Does polish protect at all? Does the polish process clean at all? I'm assumming you match the polish color to your leather. How important is this match--do you have multiple brown polishes or just one?
Waterproofers and sealant are unnecessary - leather is naturally water resistant and needs to breathe. If they get wet, dry them with a cloth then put in your cedar shoe trees (or crumpled newspaper) to absorb excess moisture. Polish isn't really essential on workboots like those Apaches (since the aesthetic is based around getting them scuffed and beaten up), but it can be used to hide scuffmarks if you want to keep them pristine (IMO missing the point). Polishing doesn't clean by itself, and will probably trap stuff underneath. The importance of the match depends on how specific you are about the boot's color. I don't remember if the Apaches are a pull-up leather, but on boots made of pull-up leather you can get rid of scuffs simply by rubbing them until they disappear.
>I am planning to buy unvarnished cedar trees and a boot brush for cleaning, as they appear to be necessary for the life of the boots. Do you have any suggestions? It seems like most are the same in quality.
Just buy split-toe shoe trees made of actual cedar (instead of plastic etc.). As long as they're in the right size, you're fine.
It appears that you're really overthinking this. Leather is naturally very strong and water-resistant, and doesn't need to be babied with a massive variety of products - at least for a workboot like the Chippewa Apache (high-end dress shoes may require more finesse).
Here's what I do:
I recently picked up some Meguiar’s Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner for like $5 at Walmart, based on the Wirecutter’s recommendation. It works great. I had a dashboard that had picked up a lot of dust and wouldn't really wipe clean because the surface is kind of sticky, and now it looks brand new.
Very Important:
Optional:
Be sure to review the Leather Care section in the wiki to get a good overview of products and care techniques.
Get a Kiwi leather care kit and some leather conditioner
Also it looks like your toes are starting to separate, in which case I'd use some Shoe Goo or just some super glue to readhere
Please don't sno-seal them, it will dull the colour so much and not be worth it at all.
I don't know where you reside, but unless you're literally walking through ankle deep wet-slush every day for kilometers, sno-seal is not needed. Just keep them well oiled with Obanauf's Leather Oil, repeating every couple weeks or so, and the leather will take care of itself. Clean salt off them with a damp paper towel as needed.
I have two pairs of Wolverine 1000 Mile boots, and it's winter/wet/slushy for 6 months of the year where I live. If the boots are conditioned with normal boot oil as above, the chromexcel has pretty good water-resisting properties already. I've walked through bouts of ankle deep water, slush, mud and snow, and never have had a problem with getting my feet wet.
Sno-Seal and Obanauf's HDLP will completely dull the colour of your boots, and obscure most of the "pull-up" and patina that makes those 1k miles you have right now look so great. It took me 2 years to wear off most of the HDLP I soaked my rust coloured 1k's in, and they look far better now that the coating has worn off and are no less water resistant.
I recently got these boots two weeks ago. I have to say after a brief break-in period of a few days after treating them with Obenauf's and leather lotion they are comfy and the leather has softened well. I've compared the build and leather to my brother's Wolverine 1000 Mile Boots and they are similar enough that you should have one or the other, not both (unless you need another color boot of course). I was deciding between the lighter brown and the cordovan, the reddish brown of the latter looks great and didn't darken or alter after leather treatment.
The sole is by Vibram and I haven't had any slipping issues where I live in NorCal. Replacement of the sole after wear shouldn't be too hard for a cobbler and I plan on caring for these boots for a lifetime.
Sizing wise, I sized a whole size down. I usually wear a 9.5D with my Nike Free Run 2, so I went down to 8.5D. Perfect fit.
I say go for it and pull the trigger, the 30% discount makes the boots worth to try out and return if not satisfied.
If I'm able to ill post pics of them.
EDIT: Had work, took pics before leaving.
Here you go.
Though I don't use leather boots at the brewery, I'm a huge boot nerd.
One of the biggest rules of leather boot care is letting your boots rest for at least 24 hours before wearing again. This gives time for all the moisture to be wicked away, especially from accumulated sweat while working. Cedar shoe trees are also your best friend, and will help even more with taking away moisture (plus they smell awesome). Put them in immediately after use!
As for leather care itself, coconut oil or Obenauf's oil are both excellent. Brush your boots with shoe brush, or wipe them down with a damp warm cotton cloth. Let dry, then apply the oil to the leather with your fingers, working the it in naturally with the warmth from your body (you'll feel sexy). Let the boots dry overnight, and then they'll be good to go! Coconut oil or Obenauf's will darken the leather a bit, so be aware of that.
I would shoot for twice a month for conditioning - really depends on how hard you work your boots.
Hope that helps!
Don't make it too complicated.
Some of the deeper scuffs may not go away completely, but they add character to the boot.
I like Obenauf's, personally.
I have one of these, works really well for getting hair out of fabric, then any portable vacuum should be able to clean it up quick. Or just buy a bunch of lint rollers if you don't want to carry around a vacuum, which seems like kind of a pain.
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_S06-Professional-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U
huh, my mk6 has no rattles but my previous ford rattled like a motherfucker.
Everything rattled quite a bit until I applied this stuff to the door frames as per a recommendation on the mk6 forums. That shit was literally like magic
Is it literally falling apart or just in dry/rough shape? If the latter, try this first: http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG
Read the reviews :)
These are the two I see recommended the most:
Gummi Pflege
http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG
Krytox
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Krytox+gpl205
You can also use silicone lube if you don’t have the above (that’s what I did last time I did mine). For cleaning, warm water and dish soap, light wipe with a clutch, make sure to get all the rubber damp.
Get some black trim restorer. Had this same issue and bought some of this and cleaned it right up.
I did not take care of mine for over a year so the whole boot was scuffed. Here is what I did. First, Lexol Cleaner, then Lexol Conditioner 4 times in 2 days. Once nice and softer again, I just did a quick polish with Kiwi Tan, that one doesn't darken and matches the rest of the boot. They look brand new again and you can't see where the scuffs were located.
I rather spend around $12 for a real leather conditioner + cleaner than risk my shoes/boots with uncertainty.
But to answer yours; yes, it will be a poor decision.
What spray cleaner do you guys use to clean the alcantara?
I was wondering if this $20 Sonax cleaner was worth it: https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494953995&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=alcnatara+cleaner
or can I get away with a $3 bottle of Tuff Stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Tuff-Stuff-Purpose-Cleaner-Cleaning/dp/B0009PCPNQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494953867&sr=8-4&keywords=fabric+cleaner
edit: or can I even get away with just vacuuming and using a damp microfiber cloth?
https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499214591&sr=8-2&keywords=alcantara+cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/forum/-/Tx2E9X3X95MNSTX/ref=ask_dp_dpmw_al_hza?asin=B00BBWJ16U
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499573952&sr=8-1&keywords=aerospace+303
On Amazon, there are two :
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_5? This one w/o UV Protection
​
And one with:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_6?
​
Which one do you all prefer???
The free way to perhaps help would be to clean your gaskets along the doors/hood/ and windows as well as their mating surfaces with just warm soapy water and rinsing them off. You could also buy a quality water-based gasket conditioner to treat them with after cleaning them to counteract any drying out with something like this or this!
This works. Don’t waste another second of your time looking for other answers.
https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=59884515761&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6qmwmpfJ4wIVkvhkCh0N7gqwEAAYASAAEgLFqvD_BwE&hvadid=274854163822&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9018933&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7647021037796784016&hvtargid=kwd-301624467095&hydadcr=19013_9707890&keywords=gummi+pflege&qid=1563821010&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Chemical Guys Microfiber Applicators
Griots Garage Microfiber Speed Shine Cloth
Royal Auto Shop & Car wash towels 36 pack
Gummi Pflege Stift
Shurhold Buff Magic Compounding Pad 2 pack
Yacoto Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitt 2 pack
303 Fabric Guard
Invisible Glass 32 Oz - 6 pack
Griots Garage Microfiber and Foam Pad Cleaner
Chemical Guys Foam Cannon and Honeydew cleaner
Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine 32 oz
Mothers Clay Bar Kit
Sonax Wheel Cleaner Full Effect 169 oz
Griots Garage Microfiber Drying Towel
303 Stain Guard
303 Speed Detailer
Detailer's Choice Leather Chamois
Natural Boar Hair Detail Brush Pack
303 Spray Wax
MATCC 5Pcs White Flannelette Polishing Wheel Cone-Shaped Wheel Grinding Head
Chemical Guys Premium Microfiber Applicators
The Germans use this: https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/
Did you put gasket treatment on the door seals to help prevent the doors from sticking?
http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG
This.
http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452529162&sr=8-3&keywords=gummi
Is this what you're looking for?
http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/
http://www.amazon.com/303-30324-Rubber-Seal-Protectant/dp/B00T44D1R2/
I'd recommend Gummi Pflege Stift instead. It came highly rated from the auto detailing subreddit, and I've been very pleased with the results on our S and X.
Also one more thing. Buy this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what they use on the rubber trim on the hardtop convertible tops on bmws. Put it all around the rubber seal on the T tops. It refreshes the rubber and prevents leaks. This shit works like a charm. brought my rubber seals back to life.
Something like this might help
This is the exact set I bought. It doesn't squirt or spray, it has a screw on top with a small nozzle, like on a shampoo bottle.
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395619579&sr=8-3&keywords=lexol+cleaner
My first GYW pair as well, also black cherry. I picked up a Lexol Leather Care Kit that comes with leather cleaner and conditioner. I wore them a few times and then cleaned and conditioned them according to the kit instructions. After each wear I brush them down with a horse hair brush and when I'm not wearing them I put in shoe trees.
I clean/condition them after about 5-6 weeks, unless I get them really muddy or something. There are surely others on this sub with better knowledge of leather care, but this routine has been working fine for me so far. Most will recommend giving them 24 hours to rest after wearing, but, y'know, they're boots.
Check this out.
I'm pretty new to boots as well, but I'd suggest picking up a few things if you don't have them already. This will apply to most leather shoes/boots (doesn't really apply to suede or roughout leathers... for that you'll need a suede brush)
FYI below is basically a tl;dr of this post that got me started on all of this. I recommend you read through it all and check out /r/goodyearwelt and maybe just use this post as more as a quick reference or for ideas.
Once everything is acquired you'll be ready to give your boots an initial tune-up and have some daily-care tools.
Daily Care
It really depends on how much work you want to do. A quick brush shine with some polish will do a lot to make them look better but if you want to rejuvenate them it will take more work.
Step 1. Clean the boot. Saddle soap works but there are good leather cleaners out there. I will link to the one I use. A damp cloth and some elbow grease will work as well, although to a lesser extent.
Step 2. Condition the leather. There are a lot of options. I use lexol with comes with a cleaner. https://www.amazon.ca/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-8-Ounce/dp/B005H7DRQA
Step 3. There are leather repair products that would help fix that tear on the left boot but since these are work boots I wouldn't bother.
Step 4. Brush shine with black shoe polish. Put a little polish on the boot with an applicator brush then brush off the excess with a horse hair brush.
I work in a technical environment in the military and this works wonders.
I have a question regarding the removal of the urine odor left over from tanning camel leather. I purchased this bag and I have tried to treat it with Chamberlains Leather Milk Conditioner and a water/vinegar solution with no avail. I've also tried airing it outside for a few days. Do you have any suggestions to get strong odors out of a leather like that? I imagine it would have to permeate it and kill the odor with a Febreeze-like effect.
Mine is 1 year old and looking like this:
lower-right corner
lower-left corner
upper-right corner
EDIT: I tried all sort of things, including Sonax but nothing changed.
My team has a few hundred Surface Laptops that they support. I can attest that the link below works great. Spray it on, brush it in a bit (soft tooth brush, dry rough fingers that we are too manly to put lotion on, etc.), wait 20 minutes, wipe it off.
https://smile.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U?sa-no-redirect=1
Sonax (206141) Upholstery and Alcantara Cleaner - 8.45 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2AMgyb0KENNDZ
This is the product I use whenever I'm detailing a clients car with Alcantara, suede or another kind of fabric, it works wonders and won't damage the fabric.
Grab some 303 Aerospace Protectant to go with it, doesn't leave grease and grim behind like most cleaners and protects from UV damage.
My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash,
clay, Iron X treatment,Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:Products Used:
0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!
Try this out: 303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More – Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2wT8BbGKZ8J2W
Buy three buckets, one for wheels, the others for a two bucket system.
Buy something to clean the wheels as well. I have the wheel woolies but I'm going to ask for the woolly wormit for my birthday from my wife.
Get a Waterless Wash and/or Quick Detailer for the times when you don't need a wash but you want to clean stuff up.
Take a look into this new Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax for a sealant. I have used the Fast Finish and it's great so this should be even better.
I also use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (D156 is the same but in a gallon jug) as a drying aid and it makes the car POP!
As a final suggestion, buy some 303 for the interior. You're going to love it. Not greasy, smells okay (not fruity), and leaves things looking great.
If you store them outside ir somewhere the sun can damage them then invest a little money into some 303 protectant spray. 303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More - Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Z1LTpJE4AnyGG
Also avoid oyster beds and dragging them across rough gravel. Have fun!
Ive been using 303 Aerospace Protectant with no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KN0UOEE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>Doors freeze shut when it’s cold.
Yeah, I know, right? It normally happens when you have a slightly warmer day (enough to allow some melted snow to get into the door's track) followed by a much colder night. Next morning, frozen door. It's not the glass or the seal freezing, it's the water. Adding a lubricant to the seal usually does the trick. Someone above recommended the following, sound like a plan for those in a colder climate.
303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JBh7Bb00V3DRV
My top was kinda doing the same, the gray was dust.
So I looked for advice and decided to get Roll-Off and then 303 Protectorant.
I washed the top with car soap and rinsed, then I scrubbed it with a horsehair brush and the Roll-Off, and rinsed it and dried it. After that I got a detail rag and then sprayed a generous amount of the 303 Protecterant and wiped it all over. It looks really nice now and the dark color is back.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FSDZTU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can use this stuff. The guys over at /r/autodetailing rave about it.
Try Lexol Cleaner with a toothbrush to clean the white stitching.
There are lots of ways to clean the boots, using saddle soap is probably your best bet. Obenauf's is your best bet for protecting them.
I would recommend this; https://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B0002X520S over mink oil. I use this in my leather restoration kit.
You could darken them using Obenauf LP. Maybe see if anybody else has tried it on the brick colour.
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B0002X520S
This is where I received all of my info: http://www.redwingshoes.com/shoe-care
I use this to condition and this to waterproof. Both work great.
Obenaufs is what I use on both pair of my leather boots (Red Wing Iron Rangers and my upland field boots [that see way more beating]). Does a great job for both. I put it on the Iron Rangers right when I got them and apply it semi-regularly.
edit: This stuff. No experience with the Dr. Marten branded stuff, but Obenaufs has been great.
If you sweat a lot with your watch on, something like Obenauf's LP will help condition and protect.
I used it on my Moto Cognac band, and it is much more supple now.
From the Obenauf's product description:
Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing. I use nextzett on my interior. Way better than Armorall, no greasy feel or shine and seems to keep the dust away. Wow, I sound like a shill...
Yeah that’s it. I’ve only ever bought it from Amazon.
Lexol also works just fine
I rub my leather goods with leather conditioner (specifically Lexol) every once in a while so that they stay supple and don't crack/dull
Try this:https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8
Been using it on my leatherette seats and seems to be doing the trick.
The most you will probably hear here is don't use Armor All cleaners for the surfaces (do more harm than good and leave a bright sheen) and visit /r/autodetailing.
These are just items I have used personally and would recommend:
Best interior cleaner I have found is Meguiar's Interior Cleaner with some microfiber towels.
Haven't had to deal with anything for anti-fogging, but for windows I use Stoner's Invisible Glass. It's a little too good in my opinion, now I have to figure out how to fix 6 little nicks in my windshield I wouldn't have noticed otherwise...
I agree with Baconzjews11, you can't fix them. You can darken them with Meguiars Quik interior detailer.
Lexol Leather Conditioner
Leather reacts adversely to being soaked in water and then dried. Think about how your hands dry out if you wash them a ton. Same concept. If you're using hot water in the wash cycle and putting them in the dryer, it makes it even worse.
As far as fixing it, apply some conditioner, like Lexol, to the leather.
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001CS2Q4M
Leather is fairly resilient. Condition occasionally if the leather looks dry (something like this works fine) and maybe grab a horsehair brush to brush dirt/dust off the shoe. If you're out in salt/slush, wipe down the shoes with a slightly damp cloth when you get back. Try to let them dry out between wears.
From the site:
>men's lace-up boot featuring a polished burgundy leather exterior and thick brown waxed cotton laces for a classic feel.
I may be wrong, but "polished leather" is usually another term for corrected grain leather, and I have always used Venetian Shoe Cream (VSC) for this. I bought in bulk a few years ago and have come nowhere close to depleting the vat o'VSC.
Another good option might be Bick 4, which I also use quite a bit.
Mink Oil is alright, but you should really check out Obenaufs leather cleaner. It's probably the best leather restorer out there right now. It will turn the leather a darker colour than the mink oil, but it won't leave a nasty white film on top like the mink oil tends to leave.
Honestly, unless you live in a very arid climate, the chances are your crepe sole will need to be replaced before you ever really even need to treat the leather.
Three products to get it where it needs to be:
• Fiebing's saddle soap and a horsehair brush (Kiwi makes a decent one for cheap) to clean it up.
• Obenauf's Leather Oil to put the oils back in it and make it soft again. I found a pair of Lucchese boots at a garage sale once that were on the verge of being ruined because they were so dried out. Obenauf's Leather Oil made them look and feel drastically better. This stuff is kind of messy, so do it over some newspaper and maybe wear some gloves. (Do not use the Obenauf's Leather Protector.)
Not OP but I bought this for my Apaches based on recommendations here, works great:
https://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B003SKCARK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509973628&sr=8-3&keywords=obenaufs%2Bheavy%2Bduty%2Blp&th=1
Ya gotta be a TOUGH MANLY MAN to make it through NorthEast winters.....
Just kidding, man. It's a great question, actually. This is my experience...
You're going to need wool socks to keep your feet warm. I personally like Darn Tough socks and some from a label called Mountain View I got at Ocean State Job Lot for $4.00 (70% merino). You don't have to spend a ton of money to get wool socks. TJ Maxx and Marshalls have slightly irregulars on sale quite often around here. Not sure about California, tho. Avoid cotton socks. Run far, far away from acrylic socks. Look for socks that are mostly (>50%) wool. Nylon will give them some durability.
You're also going to need to learn how to take care of your boots! Maybe you do this already, but if not...
The simplest thing to do is wipe them off with a clean towel after you get back indoors.
You're also going to have to treat your leather boots with some kind of dressing. Frequency varies, but at least once a year. Once a month is probably overkill. So find something in-between that works for you.
This is strictly in my opinion and experience, but the two best products I've found for this are Obenauf's Leather Protector and Huberd's Shoe Grease. WARNING: Obenauf's WILL darken the leather. That's no big deal to me but for some people it's a non-starter. Huberd's doesn't seem to darken leather, but YMMV.
Lastly, Bick #4 does a real nice job of conditioning and cleaning leather shoes/boots. I only use this when I think my shoes/boots are looking a little grubby. Bick #4 does NOT darken leather at all.
I hope you get a chance to "enjoy" a "real winter" sometime soon. One of the most fun experiences I've ever had was hanging out with a buddy from India who had never experienced snow before. He thought it was glorious. It made me take a new look at it, and winter CAN be glorious if you want it to be.
This stuff works better than snoseal. It's breathable, body heat melts it into the gloves, smells good, and darkens the leather a few shades. Highly recommend it for kincos.
Use this occasionally
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003SKCARK
Definitely a little darker right after use- but they lighten back up
I just was looking for this two weeks ago and I couldn't find a decent answer. We have a white extremely short hair dog and my gf's car had black interior. Needless to say there was no way a shop vac was getting that hair out, it was like velcro to the cloth seats/carpet.
I went to pet stores and they tried to sell me lint rollers and other useless stuff, then I went to Meijer (a 24 supercenter here in the MI, OH area) and went to their pet section. They had a rubber bristled brush, almost exactly like this one
(http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_S06-Electrostatic-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370467711&sr=1-7&keywords=rubber+brush)
It worked great, I just had to keep going. Use the brush with one hand, moving it different ways and then "sweep" the hair into a running shop vac. It'll take awhile (it took me 2 hours for a hatchback focusing on the back seats), but it will be worth it. I then re-vacuumed and used my Mytee Lite to finish the job.
Looks great.
Good luck and take your time.
Also don't waste your time with tape, it's useless.
They make rubber pet hair removal brushes specifically for this purpose. They can be had for around 6-10 dollars, and I can attest: will even remove husky hair from carpet. The stone is also good, the sponge not so much. I've never tried the baking soda method. That sounds like it's totally worth a shot. Everyone has baking soda around.
I use this one
If you’re willing to spend a few bucks more I have this style of brush and holy shit does it do an amazing job! You get the squeegee too on the top but the brush part is the real
Chemical Guys Acc_S06 Professional Rubber Pet Hair Removal Brush
I know from detailing to remove dust from something you don't want to scratch, use a Microfiber towel, and a bottle of spray detailer for Cars.
And if you tried other methods and got scratches in the glossy part of the One you can use this to get it out: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395621216&sr=8-1&keywords=mcguires+plastx
Yea. I bought something like this at a local autoparts store to polish my some older headlights and even my glossy PS3.
I used this Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish, 10 Fluid Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N-wiDbWEBJW7F
I think the reason this worked on the 3DS though is because the plastic on the 3DS is a glossy material but if it’s more of a hard plastic I don’t think it’ll work.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=plastx+meguiars&qid=1569598527&sprefix=plast+x&sr=8-2
By polish, I mean using polishing compound preferably designed for plastics/headlights. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12310-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B0000AY3SR
One more thing, the UV sealant usually says to keep it out of the rain after it's been applied, so if there's any rain forecasted and and you don't have a garage, don't do it until the rain is gone.
You can fix this long-term (but not completely permanently) with two steps: First, thoroughly clean the headlights using Meguiar's PlastX, which will restore them to brand new shine. Next, apply a layer of Meguiar's Keep Clear Coating, which will keep the headlights from fogging again for up to one year. You can probably use a different brand of coating, but I haven't found anything else that works as well as PlastX.
This would be worth a try. Works on lots of plastic surfaces.
Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish, 10 Fluid Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VoSPDb5X6XV5T
I just toothpasted my car over the weekend. It does indeed work. Just buy some simple Crest toothpaste with whitener in it. I doubt the chemical compounds of the toothpaste do anything, but what you are getting is a very mild abrasive compound.
Take a spray bottle of water, slather up some toothpaste on a rag and cover the head light and buff and buff and buff. When you think you've ground down the surface layer enough, spray more water on and rinse and wipe clean.
If this doesnt do it, you can step up to something like Bar Keeper's Friend mixed with water for more abrasion. You can also try 1000 & 2000 grit wet sanding, however you have to be careful sanding them as you could make the surface even more rough and cause it to cloud up again more quickly.
Follow it up with some Meguiars Plastic X polish and you should be good to go. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR
Is it permanently fogged (plastic damaged) or is this just condensation a.k.a. does it get better with time? If it's the first one you might be able to remove the instrument cluster window and use plastic polish on both sides of the plastic. If it's condensation check to see if gaskets, o-rings, etc that create a seal are in good condition. That's where I'd start at least...
Did you wash your towels before using them? If not you're probably seeing lint left behind from the towels.
What kind did you get exactly?
Gauge clusters are typically soft, so yes you probably scratched that. Plast X is usually recommended to remove these scratches.
Any pictures you can show us?
PlastX and a foam applicator
Yes in general.
If you headlights are oxidized very lightly, you can apply plastx and with a terry cloth polish the lights back to clarity. You can also use a foam pad if you own one.
Snap a pic and I can give you more advice if you need any.
Just remember you will need to seal your headlights or they will just oxidize again in a couple months. Apply a wax or sealant to your headlights regularly, typically when you apply it to your car.
I use this stuff and it works amazingly: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AY3SR?pc_redir=1396539178&robot_redir=1
I have a bottle in my trunk, and use it to clean friends and family cars. It takes a very small amount to make the headlight look brand new. I've had the same bottle for a couple years.
Larry from AMMO has a video about this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Bd_IqK5ydU
I also use Lexol Cleaner for my seats. Lexol has great products and I have used them for years and years.
I bought this based on recommendations : https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474904560&sr=8-7&keywords=maguires+auto+products
I like it.
I've had great luck using this Meguiars Gold Class in my 2002 540i. I had recently bought her and I don't think the leather had been cleaned in the entire life of the car. I used this with a brush and except for a few cracks the leather looks and feels brand new.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Leather-Spray/dp/B0002V9IFU
I'd say no to the cover- you bought the seats so enjoy them!. What I'd do is head down to a local auto store and purchase leather interior cleaner and conditioner - something like this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU
Along with this get some microfiber towels to use when cleaning the seats. You can always get the cover if you destroy the seats in 10 years . I'd use the seats and leather for you, not the next owner.
For wax you can spread it however you like. Machines (dual orbital polishers) are better, but if you're happy with hand wax results don't bother spending more $$. Again, I tend to like meguiars, you can check out their liquid and paste waxes. From what I remember the liquid is easier to apply. Again, grab some more microfibers. Every 6 months should suffice
If you plan on carrying supplies keeping a blanket is a great idea. Also if you are in a in a cold climate you can keep a blanket - but I wouldn't worry about EVER getting stranded in a well-maintained corolla (key: follow the maintenance schedule and don't skip stuff!!!)
ALSO: WASH THE CAR EVERY 2 WEEKS. Even though you can't see a lot of grime its there. This will prevent it from rusting up a la monte carlo
Enjoy the new car !
If you want something simple and easy to use, try Meguiar's Leather Cleaner & Conditioner. Can be found on Amazon (which I linked), or at Target/Walmart.
No, it's not as dedicated or strong in cleaning or protection as other products, but because it's a simple spray + wipe cleaner, you can easily clean/condition the entire interior within minutes.
I use it on my White Parchment Leather in my Mazda3 weekly.
Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner & Conditioner
Maaaan I just got done ogling this car over at /r/Ford and now you gotta make me jelly over here...
Again, Dad just got one of these, too. We've been treating the leather with this stuff, and it's looking pretty sharp. Congrats again on the truck!!
Yeah, you'll be fine. It looks like the suede cleaner just stripped all the natural oils out of the leather. Get this or this.
Wear them with some thick wool socks and they should be plenty warm. I wouldn't wear them to go hiking in snow or anything, but I think they'd be fine for walking through a slush/snow/icy mix. Treat them with leather conditioner before winter.
I recommend the Red Wing Beckman. Good semi-lugged sole that works indoors and out, and can definitely handle the elements once you add some Obenauf's. Also, email Revolve once that this is your first order with them and they'll give you 30% off, which gives these a damn good price/quality ratio.
I would start with the military boots. Make sure they fit well enough, and go on some smaller hikes to break them in. If there are no problems, go for it. You can always try more expensive boots later.
I would look into some waterproof treatment, though it will cut down on breathability and you can get wet from the inside out, from sweat. e.g.
My bushacres are nubuck, I wouldn't oil them.
In general you don't want to over saturate the leather with mink oil. Give it as much as it wants and no more. Too much oil and it can go rancid. A good alternative is beeswax based waterproofing like Obenauf's.
I'd be cautious of the boot dryer because dryness ruins leather. Constant moisture does as well, and I doubt consistent wetting and drying is good for leather. You could use Obenauf's LP to waterproof them as well.
That would probably work, but I use this stuff. It's kind of a hard wax, you rub your fingers around a bit and it melts, then you rub it into your leather.
I can't remember if this is per the directions, but I go back the next day and wipe it down with a cotton rag to remove any excess.
https://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B0002X520S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480387762&sr=8-1&keywords=obenauf+s+heavy+duty+lp
one jar lasts approximately forever.
Wow sorry, I could've sworn I replied to this comment. I used Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP. I bought it mainly just to darken my boots, but it doesn't hurt that it also has protective qualities.
Eu folosesc Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush.
Nu știu dacă e cea mai bună, dar asta folosesc eu și sunt mulțumit. A, da, și mă interesează foarte mult încălțămintea de calitate și am grijă de ea deci nu-s doar un noob care nu știe ce recomandă. Peria asta își face treaba și e ieftină.
Și dacă tot veni vorba, pentru bocanci recomand Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap și pentru bocanci negri recomand Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative și/sau Obenauf's Leather Oil.
Săpun doar pentru bocanci, nu pantofi, și Obenauf's stuff doar pentru piele neagră, o să schimbe culoarea altfel. Pentru pantofi sau bocanci la care nu vrei să se schimbe culoarea recomand refined coconut oil.
De evitat orice fel de cremă colorată. Aia e moartea pielii.
Amazon has it.
Wow, wonderful find. Seriously envious. Honestly, I would not worry about the damage much, its hardly noticeable. If they were my boots, I'd clean them with warm water, let dry, and condition/protect with Obenauf's. In fact, this is what I do with my boots in northern Vermont.
Was this what you used?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002X520S?pc_redir=1404739595&robot_redir=1
I really love the way they turned out in your photos and I think I want to get them and apply the same wax. Great review btw.
The crew at styleforum is constantly recommending Obenauf's:
Amazon
However, on the Wolverine 100 site, they show a video of a guy using Montana Pitch Blend.
I'll end up going with the Obenauf's since it doesn't have mink oil which supposedly can rot the leather over time.
Einszett Cockpit Premium. This stuff is awesome
http://www.amazon.com/einszett-Cockpit-Premium-16-9-fl/dp/B0002Z2MZ4
This stuff is the best interior cleaner you can buy.
interior, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Z2MZ4
Recommended to me and I like it. Smells nice (not over powering) is not glossy and can be used on treated leather (your steering wheel).
This stuff will do the trick
I'm actually not sure if that's a conditioner or just a leather protector of some sorts, but usually, conditioners are labeled as such. Lexol is what I use, and what is often recommended around here as a general purpose conditioner.
I decided to just go with lexol leather conditioner and it's working perfectly. It came highly recommmend in /r/goodyearwelt. Don't use Obernauf's LP unless you want to ruin your boots. Don't use waxes. Oil works well but can be a little harder to work with because of how easily it saturates the leather. If you look around this subreddit you'll see a lot of boots that are drenched when they are oiled. You don't want that. You want a healthy leather.
Be careful when using oil on shoes and boots. Most of them will darken the leather. If you plan on repeatedly using the boots in heavy snow or rain oil will help weather proof them. Otherwise there isn't any real reason to. Every couple months give the boots a good rub down with a leather conditioner. It'll help keep the leather from drying out and restore some luster.
I like Lexol; it's cheap, it works and it doesn't darken the leather. A jug this size will last you years. Of course there are plenty of options out there, feel free to do the research. There's a lot to learn. Just keep in mind that products containing oil (especially mink) or wax will darken the leather.
Equally important is to get a shoe brush if you haven't already. With five minutes, a brush and a little elbow grease you can get your boots looking great without having to use any product. You don't want to over condition leather as it can weaken it over time.
Someone help me understand why this is even a deal? It's more expensive than if you were to purchase these separately.
1 liter Leather Conditioner
1 liter Leather Cleaner
Total is $18.45... and that isn't even a sale price. It could be even cheaper if you do subscribe and save and just cancel the subscription right after it ships.
I have always used either Chelsea Leather Food or Lexol Leather Conditioner for my leather goods.
The Chelsea is really popular among soccer players for use on their cleats so it can be found in a reasonable number of sports stores that sell them for around 10 bucks. Make sure you get the clear stuff though.
The Lexol looks like a car care product but it was recommended to me for use on my riding boots and is extensively to keep horse tack from drying out and wearing down. Amazon is selling a liter of the stuff for 12 bucks. Because it is meant to soak in to the leather a bit, it may darken the JCP boots up some, so go with a few even, light coats first rather than just pouring the stuff on.
The Kiwi polish that you can find in drugstores everywhere is plenty good and is pretty cheap at around 3 bucks a tin. I am currently using some Brooks Brothers Shoe Cream which I got as a gift a bit ago and i love the stuff. It is a bit on the 'pricey' side at 9 bucks a jar so it is up to you.
As a last note, I would recommend getting some Saddle Soap for use after youve gone slogging through some less than clean streets and perhaps forgotten to clean your shoes for a bit. It is a great 'once and a while' product to get your shoes clean again and helps to make sure you arent polishing any dirt or grime into the shoe the next time you give them a shine.
http://amzn.com/B000637TNM
Me too!!!! It's so annoying. It doesn't take it all out, but I have good luck with this product.
For wheels you can literally just use soap and a seperate rag that will never touch the paint, or wheel woolies followed by a rag.
You said there wasn't anything on there for Wheels or Interior, but here's the recommended stuff from the wiki:
Hot Rims Wheel & Tire Cleaner
Quik Interior Detailer
Not what I use personally, but just to prove the point a lot of information can be found from the wiki.
If you plan on using tire shine, use something that doesn't contain silicon and i would recommend a gel dressing over spray on shines.
I personally use this on my car to get those out:
http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g13616-quik-interior-detailer%E2%84%A2/
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405347425&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+interior+detailer
Meguiars interior wipes or the spray is what I normally use on my truck, my car, and my girlfriends car. Work great, good smell when spraying^^^^^DoesntOverwhelm, I usually spray the rag. Unless it’s bad enough to need a soak.
Edit: The wipes work fantastically on the dash
Nice ride. I myself have a 2015 Mazda 3 GT. I use Lexol for cleaning and conditiong (protecting) leather. Just use some TRC microfiber towels to clean the leather and the rest of the interior. For the dash, I just use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and D101 APC. It doesn't leave a shiny residue on the dash. I use those two for almost everything on the interior.
okay so like the comment below 303 is simple and easy. I don"t use it much as its not readily available here in Toronto.
Things i do use:
For the dash board and any plastic inside the car i use:
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05324-Protectant-24-oz/dp/B0007RDVGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704916&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+interior
OR
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705281&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars%2Binterior%2Bcleaner&th=1
For the carpets i do 2 thing when i am in a hurry ill use:
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-50572-Rubber-Cleaner/dp/B00PKE6NNY/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704985&sr=8-12&keywords=turtle+wax+interior+cleaner
Just spray some on the carpet and after a quick vacuum then do a good vacuum job this can take like 30 mins once you get the hang of it.
when i have time i use:
https://www.amazon.com/BISSELL-1400B-Multi-Purpose-Portable-Cleaner/dp/B0016HF5GK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705069&sr=8-2&keywords=bissell+little+green
The second method is simple just follow the instructions it came with and this item usually goes on sale there are better ones that keep the water heated.
They also both give the car a nice smell after cleaning i don't have leather seats so i can say much about it.
as for windows there 2 steps i do as well:
I use
https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705440&sr=8-2&keywords=invisible+glass
Then polish the exterior and where is no tint with
https://www.amazon.com/3M-800002242-RAIN-X-WINDSHIELD-TREATMENT-3-5/dp/B000WNED08/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705503&sr=8-13&keywords=rain+x+glass+cleaner
The second step is a bit tedious so if you are not comfortable stick with step 1.
The thing that also really good to have is good clothes for cleaning the more the better Micro fibre cloth's are the best.
https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-POLISHING/dp/B0166U4PVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705636&sr=8-1&keywords=micro+fiber+rag+company
and for glass:
https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Microfiber-Professional-STREAK-FREE/dp/B00WC5KQGE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705755&sr=8-5&keywords=rag+company+glass
After wiping the class with step one and then its dry i usually just follow up with a dry microfiber cloth to pick up any little dirt i left behind.
If i left anything behind let me know ill make a full post once summer comes around with maybe a video of sorts but there is alot of information also to r/autodetailing wiki post and sorry for the format if its not up to standards this is my first long post.
I am a clean person but the interior of my '17 CX-5 gets filled with dust and fingerprints every day. Not good for an OCD person :P
I kept a microfiber cloth in the car to wipe stuff off but I think it put swirls/scratches in the piano gloss black plastic trim so I stopped using it.
I got some Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer though. Says it should it be safe to use on all the surfaces, but what do you guys think?
I use Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer and it does an amazing job. Plus you can buy it at Walmart, at least around me.
Edit: I always follow up with Meguiars Natural Shine on the plastic. I find it helps it not look so shitty. I hate that plastidip finish they used for the plastic.
I ride a leather Burton glove. Leather gloves don't breath very well, so setting them out to dry after riding is important.
First I use dawn dish soap in the kitchen sink to wash them.
Next, Lexol leather conditioner so the leather isn't left dry.
Finish off with Nikwax waterproofing to make them stay dry.
Use some Lexol on it and it will look so much better.
"MakersOnRocks" posting about sperries. TFM. Anyway, when you're cleaning them, put some of this shit on there after following the other peoples' advice. It really works wonders.
if its real leather then i would just use leather conditioner. (luckily I have some from my boots) check this out.
If not I'll let someone else answer.
I use Bick 1 cleaner and Bick 4 conditioner, nothing fancy; lexol would also work perfectly fine. I prefer the Woodlore 'Epic' trees.
I did a bit of research of several months ago on leather cleaners, and I ended up buying [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Bickmore-Bick-Leather-Conditioner-Ounces/dp/B001CS2Q4M/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1474914803&sr=8-19&keywords=leather+shoe+cleaner) -- Bickmore Bick 4.
Also, [here's an introductory leather care guide] (https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/1ubpyl/introductory_leather_care_guide/) from r/goodyearwelt.
Hi all! I'm about to get (my first) leather conditioner.
Would you recommend Lexol or Bick 4? I read they are very similar.
For reference I've got a pair of Clarks Bushackre 2 (beeswax) and Bondockers (Fudge) from Golden Fox
Thanks! I'll answer your questions with some depth.
Pants are the Flax Norman trousers from Armstreet in wine red. Custom made to my size, beautiful through and through.
The mantle is actually the first piece of costume I ever bought. It's a leather hood from the Colorado Renaissance Festival. I get a lot of compliments for it!
There's no pointing of armor here, no padding, nothing special. I am looking to get some steel demi-greaves for my upper legs and knees. I got one too many wooden swords to the patella when fighting the kids. And I think a little more steel would really up the 'knight' look.
Let me know if you have any other specific questions, happy to answer!
http://www.amazon.com/Bickmore-Bick-Leather-Conditioner-Ounces/dp/B001CS8G3C
This is the most recommended over at /r/goodyearwelt. I use Obenauf's oil on my boots. I think it'll darken things more than the Bick's will.
Obenauf makes a leather oil that is better for treating/conditioning dry leather.
Saddle Soap is a great product to clean and maintain boots without drying them out.
Red Wing also makes Mink Oil and a number of other leather treatments to weatherproof boots.
You could get him 1 of each, and a cleaning brush and put it all in a wooden cigar box. ($1-5 at a tobacco store) and it would be a great gift.
Just curious, but why did you go with Otter Wax over something like Sno Seal or Obenauf's?
LL Bean Boots - (signature version, if you like canvas). Go down a full size for medium-weight socks, size and a half for wool socks, which you should have at least three pairs of. Darn Tough has a no bullshit lifetime warranty, so feel comfortable buying their stuff. Weatherproof a pair of Thorogoods if bean boots aren't your bag. Here's a plain toe version.
A vintage navy peacoat is always a safe and timeless option.
Keep an eye out for merino wool beanies, softer than a baby's ass.
When all else fails, an insulated thermos and tea's a good thing to have.
You may want to consider Obenauf's LP in that case
My bad on the low quality image. Loving my new J. Crew Knit Sweater in dark blue
Waiting for:
Tan Wolverine 1000 miles
Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP
Saddleback ID wallet
I recommend either not treating them or maybe giving it a quick layer of Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP.
I really don't have a preference. I use Black rock leather, but a lot of fashion leather shoe guys like Obenauf's LP or venetian shoe cream
These [boots] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036VN8KE/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and leather preserver.
Books, one, two, three, and finally four.
Bit set.
And new cooking stuff.
All of this was on one giant order.
We use one of these paired with our shop-vac. Works really well in the house and the car. Also one of those stones.
I haven't found a vac that will get rid of the hair off microfiber surfaces very well, this solution worked for us.
Beautiful colored Subie. I use a spray on sealant by Meguiars to keep my headlights from fading, lasts well over a year.
Also, this stuff called gummi pflege stift is great for restoring and protecting old rubber door seals:
nextzett 91480615 'Gummi Pflege Stift' Rubber Care Stick - 3.4 fl. oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r1WIAbZ52QG3J
I've read this should help with the creaking issue. https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG
I have the same creaking issue but I have yet to attempt a fix on it.
I have had zero repairs on the top and the only maintenance I've done is to put some Gummi Pflege on the seals every 6 months ( https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1IXM3TJ577A2&keywords=gummi+pflege+rubber+protection&qid=1563411869&s=gateway&sprefix=gummi+pf%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-1 ). The top works great and has never given me a problem. I live in Arizona and put it down A LOT.
https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG
This stuff is great to keep your rubber nice and supple, and does add a little "blackness"
You can get it at Amazon or your choice of online sites.
Simply clean all seals with a damp microfiber cloth, wet the applicator and moisten the seals. Do your doors, hatch and hood seals too, especially if you are in a winter zone.
https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG
Fixed my creaky sunroof. It was the rear seal.
https://smile.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG?sa-no-redirect=1 this is purpose built for seals. will also protect them.
> There is great rubber/trim stick out there, but I can't remember the name (I think it is German).
Is this it?
Einszett Gummi Pfledge Stift
I'd recommend Gummi Pflege Stift instead. There is no better rubber care product:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Some OTC stuff you can try are Mother's back to black or Meguiars Ultimate Black
This stuff is easy to apply and works well:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Black-Restorer-Protect/dp/B0055PD1H4/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2UW3B51KKNVFJ&keywords=plastic+restorer&qid=1569526006&sprefix=plastic+res%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-18
This is what you need:
Meguiar's G15812 Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055PD1H4/
I use Meguiars.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055PD1H4
It lasts as long as I don't hand wash the car. I have terribly hard water and it really streaks it up. It seems to holds up to the occasional car wash and rain. wash
It appears that you have Amazon...
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-8-oz/dp/B005H7DRQA
If not, check this guide https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/1ubpyl/introductory_leather_care_guide/cegfreo
Idiot proof shoe care. Don't use this on shell, don't put it on the outside of suede shoes. I've been told you can condition the inside of suede others have suggested no care is necessary.
For cleaning and conditioning, check the lexol kit for $10 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414503723&sr=8-1&keywords=lexol+care+kit
I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:
I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.
Try a leather cleaner and conditioner combo.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005H7DRQA?pc_redir=T1
I use this stuff it's cheap and works great.
FWIW, I'm planning on using Lexol as well. I too recently got the 8119's and after reading hours of guides and opinions on leather conditioning, it seems that Lexol is the best for what I want, which sounds like what you want too - moisturize the leather without fucking up the color too much.
Amazon's got a good kit for $12 Prime.
The chair looks to be in pretty good condition as it is. I would just give it a once over with some lexol cleaner then conditioner. Depends on your usage, but it shouldn't need more than one application a year.
I also have a David King weekender bag! Same shade, but a bit smaller in size. I've had it about 4 years and it's in similar condition to yours. It's a really lovely bag and was such a great value. I get so many compliments on it.
I just used it for a trip last week and am considering applying a leather conditioner to it. I just noticed a few areas were looking a bit drier and worn. I'm certainly not complaining about their quality-- any leather product is going to need some love to keep it looking new. Their website recommends using a leather conditioner for good measure.
I was planning on buying a bottle of Chamberlain's Leather Milk to use on it. I'll do a spot test, though I fully expect it to darken a few shades once the conditioner's applied.
I have the dark brown calf Boots.
(I also have Black Red Wing Beckmans and some Burgundy Allen Edmonds that I will polish today or tomorrow)
I went on amazon and bought a few things --
Chamberlains is nice and I like it, but others recommend Saphir Medaille D'or Renovator which I might get just to see if there is a noticeable difference
Basically, I've never done this (well maybe once a long time ago watching my dad shine his shoes....so like over a decade ago), so I just jumped on youtube and google to look for stuff.
Let it sit over night with your shoe trees in, then see how nice the outcome is!
Took me like....45 minutes or so but I had to keep going back to make sure I wasn't being dumb or missing something. Overall, its pretty easy. I'm sure there are "better" ways to do it, but thats why I'm reading and looking at stuff to see what to do.
If anyone has more tips or help, or if Im completely wrong, please TELL ME.
Hope I'm not here spouting blasphemy.
2 words: Leather Milk
I use this on my saddleback wallet/briefcase. Keeps them smelling and looking amazing.
Here is a link to the Chamberlain's Leather Milk.
My SO had it, and uses it periodically on her Ariat riding boots (These, I think. Not sure though). It seems to work very nicely, so I was disappointed at my results.
I will look into the creme polishes. Why do you prefer the creme polish over the wax?
I believe this is it: SONAX SONAX (206141) Upholstery and Alcantara Cleaner - 8.45 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nyEHAbCZVRXHP
Haven't tried it because my Alcantara still looks nice but it does have good reviews.
They're a blend of Alcantara with some sort of polyurethane to make them more durable.
I use this stuff every week with a damn cloth per the instructions. It works well enough, but there's still a faint discoloration on the palm rests when I'm done. In some lighting it's barely visible, outdoors it's very noticeable.
I may try the toothbrush instead of cloth, though. Thanks!
What year is your car?
Leather no it shouldn't crack like that after a year.
Alcantara, yes it can. Alcantara is terrible and is nothing but a royal pain to restore/care for. I use this to treat my alcantara.
Pretty much the same as regular cloth. Alcantara requires special cleaning products though and to be a little more gentle when rubbing the product in. I feel that stains stick to alcantara more compared to regular cloth, so you will have to repeat product applciation a few times, which can be time consuming. Product
I picked up my bottle of it on amazon. Presently it's about $17 a bottle. I'm sure the pricezombie will chime in on price history...
http://www.amazon.com/303-30313-Aerospace-Protectant-fl/dp/B00KN0UOEE/
EDIT: Just curious, where did you find it locally?
Absolutely you want to start taking care of it properly it right away, start with a with a high quality, non greasy UV protectant spray.
I don’t own a GTI yet. But I have been using this stuff on my cars for a while now and it’s amazing 303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More - Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KCWFDb1P9VS7Y.
No problems here. I open mine almost every day as long as weather permits. We've had a bit of rain here in Salt Lake, but not much and I haven't noticed any leaks, but I also haven't gone looking to see if any water is pooling.
I've read that treating the seals with 303 will keep them from drying out which can be part of the reason they start to squeak.
I drive a 15' BRZ and live in FL
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1499474713&sr=8-7&keywords=interior+cleaner
I see 303 get a lot of good reviews on how nice their interiors look after applying. Is 303 a cleaner or just a UV protectant? Am I better off buying something like Chemical Guy's Interior Detailer and Protectant? or Meguiar's
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI-663-InnerClean-Protectant/dp/B008LPKV28/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499476506&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=interior+detailer&psc=1
I keep my interior pretty clean. I do a quick dust wipe with a microfiber every few days so the dust doesn't build up. And every few weeks I'm looking to wipe it down and touch it up with an interior detailer and was wondering which one is preferred.
Kaboom with Oxiclean + tooth brush, then wipe clean with a microfiber towel has worked well for me. Be sure to give the cleaner a good minute or more of contact time to work its magic on the mildew before wiping clean.
The magic eraser suggested by others will work quicker, but it will also scour off the top layer of your vinyl which will likely weaken it and remove UV protection. If you must go the magic eraser route be as gentle as possible, and be sure to generously re-coat the vinyl with 303 protectant to protect against UV damage.
And if all else fails, vinyl can be repainted to look like new. I had great results a few years ago with this white dye followed by a few coats of this clear coat on my seats. They are still holding up great after a few years of heavy use and many cleanings.
There are a ton of products out there, but THIS for the leather and for pretty much everything else THIS.
EDIT: You can find this stuff in most auto parts stores.
Vinyl decals? 303 Aerospace Protectant apply and rub till dry. This will help prevent fade and wear on the decals. It needs to be applied regularly. Be careful what you wash and clean your trailer with, anything that will destroy the plasticizers will cause the decals to crack and fade quickly.
http://www.autogeek.net/convertible-top-dye.html
http://www.amazon.com/303-30313-Aerospace-Protectant-Trigger/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427689475&sr=8-1&keywords=303
I've been testing out 303 Aerospace Protectant. I've heard good things and so far it seems to be working great.
Might be worth checking out /r/AutoDetailing .
303 is great stuff. That's what I use. My 2003 is still original top but I've had to patch it in a couple of small spots, due to wear from the bars.
This is what I was referring to for the door and window seals: 303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5LDIAbS9Y0J4B
I would clean it with light abrasion (microfiber towel is probably ok) and any sort of all purpose cleaner. I'm not sure if it's reversible, but there are products that are meant for that sort of material. If you google "gummi pflege" you should find a couple. I personally have this stuff but haven't used it a whole lot.
303 and done
Do you mean the 303 protectant, or an interior cleaner from 303?
Just asking because you may mentioned cleaner, so you might be comparing apples to oranges... explaining such a gap in performance.
My 6 has so much creek. So what I did was...
1/4th inch drip tube in the inner seal atop my doors
That worked for a bit but the squeaky noises returned.
Next I used Gummi Pflege on the inside of every single seal within the door. So what I mean is. On the ones that attach to the body, but more importantly I spread open every one on the door and put a generous coating
Lastly,
I put Sailkote all over a rag, I mean soaked it, then rubbed it all over the felt side of the upper door seal that touches the body.
This can be purchased for a lot less with some hunting. I paid 12.99 at a local marina store
Get nextzett it's amazing
Link to it
i use rain-x wipers but my real secret is this stuff
http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG
it reinvigorates all rubber, from window and door seals, to wiper blades. It's awesome!
I recommend gummifledge for this issue. I tried silicone spray first and that worked for a while, but this gummifledge stuff made the creaking go away for six months at a time. Pop up your moonroof and apply it to the rubber piece in the back and wherever else you think there may be rubbing, but that long back rubber weather seal was the culprit.
​
https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG
Before I forget, you'll want some of this. It's the stuff that revitalises your seals and cures (or prevents) the T-Top leak as well as reduces wind noise. It's a godsend and done the moon-roof on my E34 as well as the T-Tops on an '87 AW11. Seriously worth a bottle.
Apply Gymi Pfledge to the seals on the roof every 6 months to a year. There should also be drain holes in the A piller. Check that those are clear as well. There should also be a set in the roof compartment but I doubt those would clog easily.
For the roof it, since it is halting outright and not struggling, symptom of hydraulic issues ask me how I know, It almost certainly is a sensor that is failing. You may be able to get a special code reader (at least on the E46, the convertible module is not readable by standard OBDII readers) for the module to read which sensor is bad or you have to test each sensor on the car.
Hee you go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004B8GTQG/
It's squishy but it feels stiff? Kind of contradicting.
If you need it to have more give, use this stuff on the top part of the rubber:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If it's not stiff enough, apply a very fine coat of this stuff using a paint brush to the base of the raised rubber:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AGZ0MUW/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Over time, the flex seal will fail and you'll need to reapply.
Which one of these for door seals that are sticky?
nextzett
303 Rubber seal
If worried about the trying the heatgun option (which does work, see vids on youtube), you might start with Meguiar's Ultimate Black or Mother's Back to Black.
depending on their state will change the answer. You can get them replaced. You could also use something like meguiars back to black to "paint" them black again.
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G15812-Ultimate-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B0055PD1H4
Thanks! The rubber and trim is all NLA— I'll look into what plasti-dipping it would take. I also need to take the roof rack down, remove all the chipping paint (what's left if it, anyway), and then re-paint it. Have you used Meguiar's Black Plastic Restorer?
For power washing, am I doing it right? Can I use more pressure? Just looking for some guidance, since I'm just doing what seems mostly right without much knowledge of if it really is right.
Fyi you can use black plastic restoration stuff (link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055PD1H4) and seal it with armor all to restore it to the factory coloring. I used it on my JKU and as long as you apply the armor all occasionally I haven't had mine fade. I have found that dirt from off roading does bake on and fade the plastic if you leave it but hosing it off right after you go can save you from that.
Not sure just how broke you are, but I bought this 8 oz lexol kit for ~$11 like 2 years ago and I'm not even halfway through it. Comes with applicators, cleaner and conditioner.
Bought my kit on Amazon... free shipping after 35$..
https://www.amazon.ca/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-8-Ounce/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484105863&sr=8-1&keywords=Lexol+907+Leather+Care+Kit%2C+8-Ounce
Thanks for the video! It was very helpful. He kept referencing an "interior cleaner." What brand of cleaner do you recommend? Lexol 907?
I would not recommend either product:
Magic Eraser: The magic erasers are basically a mild sandpaper made to scratch away the dirt. While great in kitchens, not so good on your dyed leather as if you were to use it regularly it would eat right through the dye and hide.
Armor all: You'll get a lot of hate for most of the Armor All products from the pros. They are just poor products and there are way better manufacturers and specific products out there.
If you want to do a basic leather clean up I would recommend Lexol cleaner and conditioner. It's cheap, and readily available at hardware and auto parts stores as well as a light brush. Someone below recommended a brush for leather shoes. Provided it is soft I see no issues with it.
Start with a wipedown on a microfiber cloth with the cleaner, and move up to light use with the brush if its needed. Another wipe down with a dry cloth, then you can condition.
The standard for leather care (the only cleaner & conditioner I've ever seen stocked at leather supply stores) is Lexol.
Amazon Link
Thanks for the feedback on sizing. It feels good enough considering my oddly shaped feet. I'll look into the brands that you mentioned!
When people say to use Lexol, is this what they're referring to?
Roughly these, though I bought them a year and a half ago before I knew about proper care.
I'm currently thinking this leather care kit, a horsehair brush, and mink oil
Get yourself some Lexol leather cleaner and condition. Link
This stuff is absolute magic and used for car interiors, shoes, bags, or anything leather. I use it on my Plycraft replica (real leather) as well as my Red Wing shoes. A lot of the leather cleaners/conditioners or Internet Knowledge is extremely overboard for leather care. The users at /r/goodyearwelt and /r/malefashionadvice swear by this stuff for leather care.
You will not harm or discolor the leather on the chair at all. There's some kind of magic sauce in it. From the Amazon link
This Lexol pack look any good? Or should I just stick to the conditioner? What is "leather cleaner"? Just like a more mild saddle soap or like Saphir Renomat?
I finally got my Iron Rangers in Copper Rough & Tough in. What leather conditioner should I use? Should I get this Lexol kit or Red Wing's leather conditioner?
Also, what kinds of suede brushes do you guys recommend?
Are these your only boots or do you have another pair to rotate out? If you let the leather rest every few days they will maintain their shape and you'll be less prone to wrinkles and deterioration. Either way you should be wiping off any excess water, salt, or slush and using a leather cleaner when needed and a conditioner every 3-6 months. Here's the stuff I use personally.
If you are literally walking through heavy snow then I would look into weather dressing the beckmans. But be forewarned that it IS going to darken the leather and will diminish the depth of the leather color. Here are three examples of the darkening of the leather. Please read the comments too as there are helpful bits of info in there. Obenaufs carries a Heavy Duty Leather Protector and a leather oil.
I don't have a perfect yes/no answer for you. I live in the Midwest US and have a pair of Iron Rangers that I don't intend to treat other than with conditioner. We can get some bad winters here but I'll just take my chances. I also plan on picking up a pair of waterproof boots so that I have something to switch out with the IRs.
Is this what I need? https://www.amazon.ca/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-8-Ounce/dp/B005H7DRQA
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H7DRQA/
Would you suggest me getting the lexol leather care kit or just the lexol conditioners? Is the cleaner necessary?
Just got the Red Wing Iron Ranger 8083 the other day. Would something like this work for leather care? What kind of brush should I get? What else do I need to know?
Thanks!
Is this the same conditioner?
https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-E301123100-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521461753&sr=8-3&keywords=lexol&dpID=51K9XWibG7L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
The link you provided says "Equine" in the logo.
This sub recommended me to use Lexol for my new Iron Rangers. Is this the package I should be going with? Or a Lexol spray? Thanks!
SQ: Is there anything I else I should be doing to care for my 1ks?
Sorry the pictures might not be the best to judge. Got these as 2nds from STP a while back.
Shortly after purchase, had a local cobbler add half soles.. for some reason he dressed the edges using black polish or something, which eventually wore away.
I'm wondering if he also tried to buff and polish the uppers or something, because I feel like the wear around the toe showed up shortly thereafter and I don't really beat things things up as much as they look like I do.
Half soles started coming off not too long after, definitely not using that cobbler again, haha. Not too worried about the soles though, at some point I'll probably hit up B.Nelson or something for a proper fix.
I'm much more worried about the uppers, so far I've given them the occasional cleaning and conditioning with this basic lexol kit which I mainly got for my Beckmans (which are holding up much better, haha). Should I grab VSC or Pure Neatsfoot or something instead?
I'm thinking I might like something to darken the leather, right now they're a little chalky looking.
Any advice? I've been doing a lot of lurking and searching over the past year but I still feel pretty clueless.
Lexol Leather Cleaner and Conditioner and Sponge Kit, For Use on Leather Apparel, Furniture, Auto Interiors, Shoes, Handbags and Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t78OCbRYWN9HC
A good place to start is with some conditioner. Every 2 or 3 months or so it is good to condition your boots, lexol works well: http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422498360&sr=8-1&keywords=lexol+leather
Visit /r/goodyearwelt for more care info
Leather just takes a bit of work (and extra maintenance), to be honest. The best brief leather harness guidelines I've found: "Leather can be cleaned with soap and water, with leather cleaner or saddle soap. Allow to air dry for at least 24 hours. Use leather conditioner to keep the leather soft and supple. Never soak leather."
You might check out a leather-specific cleaner plus conditioner pack. Works best with a microfiber cloth. The conditioner is only necessary occasionally.
I assume I should be using this for the cleaner and conditioner?
I bought this exact listing from Amazon. It comes with a pad and the Lexol has instructions on the package as far as application, but it isn't too tough. Just make sure the leather is clean, and try pouring like a quarter-sized amount onto the cleaning pad. You can work up from there if you want to use more at one time. The good thing about Lexol is you can wipe off excess with a clean cloth (I use a spare washcloth) and no harm done.
Personally, I wipe down first with an old rag, then use the cleaner if needed (usually isn't). Then I brush, use the conditioner, and let it sit a while. Then I wipe clean and let it sit for a while again. It's kind of a superstitious process to be honest. If you're conditioning your leather on a schedule and using shoe trees, you're already doing way more than the average person.
Remember that the Lexol WILL darken your leather a little. I tried to show some comparisons in my original post. But the coconut oil will be more in my experience.
Edit: I actually bought the "Like New" version via an Amazon Warehouse deal to save a couple bucks. it was basically just an open box item. Neither bottle had been opened.
Lexol makes some really good stuff. I like their cleaner and conditioner.
I used Lexol for my brand new glove last year and then, play catch a lot. I saw a video on YouTube about it and give it a chance.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H7DRQA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687662&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000637TNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=00WTQ71RB2S53X1ZGBDE
This product is great, you can even use it regularly to clean the glove.
I highly recommend it.
I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:
I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).
My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.
My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.
Chamberlain's Leather Milk. It works great on my own leather boots (admittedly, I have thicker leather than most of what MFA wears) and I know women who use it on their bridle equipment (horse stuff that costs more than most man stuff.). It's incredible, I won't use anything else until I dabble into more delicate leathers. Oh, and it smells like almonds. Suck on that, coconut oil.
I use Chamberlain's leather milk for my leather jacket and chelsea boots
https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Milk-Conditioner-Cleaner-Applicator/dp/B007ZDDUCK
This stuff looks pretty impressive
Okay. I used Chamberlain's Leather Milk and it faded it a bit. You think I should I use boot cream, all natural leather natural conditioner or boot cream for this kind of leather?
Wow, just looked it up and there are like 10 different types of chamberlain's milk. Could you tell me the one? I'm guessing this one, Formula No. 1?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZDDUCK
I'd look into rubbing some of Chamberlain's Leather Milk into it.
I use that on my leather coat and my leather bags. Does an excellent job softening up the leather and resurrecting it from the dry dead state it could get in.
This is what I use for the alcantara in my personal vehicle, works wonders!! https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483915379&sr=8-1&keywords=alcantara+cleaner
Premium materials require premium cleaning products
try this: https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2530472011
Found this on amazon
I haven't tried it on mine, but I've read that an Alcantara cleaner like the below works well:
Sonax (206141) Upholstery and Alcantara Cleaner - 8.45 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rVU1CbDKNY8RP
There's others, and if you read reviews you'll find people who've used it on their Alcantara Surfaces with success. The only reservation I would have is with later versions of Alcantara (ie. Surface Laptop) which supposedly have a different protective layer than the Alcantara Touch Cover, which I have.
Have you tried this stuff?
https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/
​
When I had my SL, I treated it monthly with this. I never let it get too dirty but any minor dirt/stains were resolved by using this.
Hi,
Maybe try this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Sonax-206141-Upholstery-Alcantara-Cleaner/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=sonax+alcantara+cleaner&pd_rd_r=66c54ddc-042c-48fb-a0fb-c7e19b1d7532&pd_rd_w=7WaL8&pd_rd_wg=bfIv5&pf_rd_p=9bcef603-6ec3-4264-9154-aba24753bfba&pf_rd_r=1HQAXZVPB4HS3TV4895G&qid=1571488374&s=automotive&sr=1-1-catcorr
​
I don't tried it yet, but apparently it works well with surface covers.
I left mine at airport security check and the airport had to mail it to my house. The person put tape on alacantra keyboard backside, and wrote my name on the tape in pen. The pen marked past the tape and resulted in an inch long pen stain on the alacantra keyboard that I use on my surface pro 3. I successfully removed the blue ink line with the product link below. Just follow instructions. I highly recommend using the brush that is recommended under the "frequently bought together".
I will add that I used a high power stand fan to dry the alacantra area after I have finished cleaning it with the brush.
Sonax (206141) Upholstery and Alcantara Cleaner - 8.45 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBWJ16U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i67-Ab6P2VNY1
I've been planning to buy a bottle of this for a few weeks to clean mine. It's probably snake oil in a bottle but it's still cheaper than inkjet printer ink!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBWJ16U
I'll give you an upvote for paying the dog tax. You'll have another when you get some 303 Aerospace Protectant on those fenders and get em back to black
There are dozens of sprays you can buy actually designed for protecting fabrics and vinyls from the sun. 303 Spray comes to mind. I've used it on convertible tops for many years with great results.
I use 303 Aerospace Protectant and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/
I'd try something like that. Apply to the fabrics and plastics periodically. Paint as well, or use a UV film (also protects against scratches).
303 makes a great product for both.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fkNIDbFJ17NC1
I use Adam's and chemical guys stuff for most everything else. There's better stuff out there, but I find these to be easy to use and get ahold of.
> I kind of agree but honestly ours is looking pretty faded considering it's only been a year.
We have a black plastic mailbox (something purchased off-the-shelf from Home Depot). I've discovered that regular applications of 303 Aerospace Protectant work wonders to keep my mailbox from fading from the sun.
no 303? you're going to want some 303...
bahaha whoops had the wrong link on my clipboard. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/?coliid=ICF1ZUK8SEQI6&colid=21PX3HJTDBEM6&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Thanks! This is the general vinyl cleaner -- not specific to cars? (As in this product: https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/) ?
Please don’t use armor all. Here’s what most of the pros use: 303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More – Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OoQXBbW2J4TG9
Def skip the mothers recommendation.
I like this stuff and use it on other things like the dash as well:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543273220&sr=8-3&keywords=303
Yes you can use that one, I actually have this one. I bought a two pack in case something happens with one so I'll have one on hand.
The interior was easy. Vacuum, wiped down with Nextzett Cockpit Premium, and dressed some parts with 303. The only bad thing was I was vacuuming in the sun, so it was hot af. The paint had oxidation, but the owner didn't have much time so I only washed it and sealed it with Sonax Polymer Net Shield.
you can try 303 Aerospace protectant
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492447381&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=303+protectant&psc=1
has UV resistant properties.
Here you go. It's 32oz so it lasts quite a while. I bought a gallon about 10 years ago, severely overestimating how much I needed.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_1
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
> wheel cleaner plus would be an infrequent use, not every time. D143 would be your every-time use.
So, should I get both or just Meguiar's D143?
> griots fast correcting cream and a microfiber cutting pad from meguiars for the cutting portion of the polishing. replaces 105 and maybe the heaviest foam pad, but i'd just get a microfiber cutting pad in addition to the others.
Would you happen to have a link to both? I am a little confused on what those are.
> Meguiar's D120 glass cleaner concentrate instead of rainx glass cleaner. a gallon will last you the rest of your life. (dilute 1:10)
Seems like a lot, but I guess it is more worth it in the long run.
> a more neutral soap like Adam's or Optimum's. Gold Class has wax additives.
These are a little more expensive (unless I am looking at the wrong one). Is Optimum Car Wash CW2006G the correct one?
> as for concerns: do not use D143 on plastics. don't spray it on the wheel wells either. wheels only. yes you can use optibond on all plastics
Should I stick with Meguiar's D101 in for the plastics, wheel wells, and wheels?
> 303 Aerospace will protect your dashboard. Leatherique has a good conditioner but really you're not going to be able to stop creases from forming.
What would be a recommended cleaner for either/both? Should I use 303 Aerospace Protectant on with the leather conditioner as well? Should I get both the Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean or just the Leatherique Prestine Clean?
Would definitely stay away from ArmorAll stuff as it seems to be lower quality and greasy -- maybe Aerospace Protectant 303 or Meguiars if you're going that route.
This is how I've restored my already fading plastic on my 2013 Civic Si, and made my parents 02 Taurus UV beat to hell plastics look great. I can take before/after photos and tape off a section if you'd like me too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KN0UOEE?cache=29d7dd861b2be32d9a9c2e80a296ba56&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1408276749&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KN0UOEE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That is the one I use. Works great on dashes and seats too!
I use this on my dashboard. Matt finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KN0UOEE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not a prob. I think they're all pretty much the same formula but this is the popular one. Great stuff
Personally I use 303 aerospace protectant. Used to work in a boat shop and we used this a lot on upholstery due to direct UV ray exposure. Have used this in all of my cars and have never had warping or fading of the dash/trim.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KN0UOEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Have you tried applying this product to the rubber seals? Obviously you shouldn't have to, but it helped significantly quiet down my panoramic sunroof seals.
https://www.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2
Mineral oil might work, it depends on the rubber. There's a good chance that you could damage or ruin them too, just be aware of that going in.
Here are some other products that might work:https://smile.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-408A-125ML-Rubber-Liquid/dp/B008O9X3KS/
https://smile.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2/
Edit: I was assuming they were older speakers and the reason the rubber was stiff was from drying out/hardening over time. If these are new speakers (i.e. the rubber is less than a decade or two old) you really shouldn't be trying to soften them up.
Is there a difference between 303 rubber seal protectant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T44D1R2 )and the normal aerospace protectant other than the applicator bottle and the price?
Something like this: 303 Rubber Seal Conditioner?
I use all 303 products on my interior bits :
UV Protector:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30218-Automotive-Conditioner-Protectant/dp/B0185PU34O/
Leather Cleaner:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Automotive-Protectant-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/
Seat Cloth:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30616-Fabric-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B0000AY69N/
Even with this my driver side left leg-bolster is showing quite a bit of wear in 7k miles/10 months. All the leather in the car has a nice matte-finish but that bolster is very shiny and the texture has almost worn completely away from getting in/out of the car, pretty disappointed.
for vegan leather seats, this is exactly what you want:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GRDHIASW5YHM&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant&qid=1563372732&s=gateway&sprefix=303+%2Cautomotive%2C284&sr=8-5
I had this problem as well, took it back to the dealer and had them get it off (unfortunately I can’t remember exactly what they did). Once it was off you could still see the faded outlines, so I applied 303 UV Protectant on it every couple of weeks since then and the marks have completely gone away.
Here's my post from a few months back...
Use Meguiar's for the seats every few months.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387042&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+leather
Wash is, you guessed it, a Meguiar's product.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Shampoo-Gallon/dp/B00068OU7U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387140&sr=8-2&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash
For a wax, I really like the NXT 2.0, also from Mequiar's.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387101&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+nxt+tech+wax+2.0
Dash protectant, I use 303.
https://www.amazon.com/303-Protectant-plastic-finished-leather/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387193&sr=8-4&keywords=303+protectant
Now, for washing, you want to always use (2) buckets, each with a grit-guard at the bottom. One bucket is a rinse bucket for your cleaning mitt. You dip your wash mitt in the rinse bucket (which is just water) before dipping into the soap bucket each time you do a different section of the car. Helps to minimize swirling and contaminants ruining your paint.
Don't go in a swirling pattern when washing the car, instead, go in straight lines back and forth.
After rinsing the car down, take your drying towel and lightly drag it in straight lines across the difference sections of the car. You don't need to apply pressure, just let it lightly drag across the car. You will see a light layer of water left after dragging the towel across. That's fine, it will dry quickly and gives the towel some lubrication which also minimizes scratching.
Yep, made for the interior (leather, plastics, etc) and it also products from UV. Originally designed for boats.
https://smile.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A
Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!
Wash/Decontamination
Wheels/Tires
Compounding/Polishing
Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
Interior/Glass Cleaners
Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax every 2-3 months. I wash with Meguiars Wash & Wax in the winter or Gold Class during the rest of the year and then finish with X-Press Spray Wax to refresh my wax coat after every wash. I’ve found that Ford paint/clear coat absolutely loves Meguiars formulas and the routine I use keeps all my Fords shining like wet glass. I don’t use paste waxes or ceramic coatings anymore because they’re such a pain to remove when it’s time to reapply. Liquid wax goes on easy, shines for 2-3 months, and then comes of just as easy so it saves you a ton of time when you have two or three cars in your household to maintain.
Most wheel stuff is pretty much the same but I use Meguiars Hot Rims on my wheels and Hot Shine on my tires around once a month or after every other wash and it keeps them shining beautifully. Keeping a coat of Hot Rims on the wheels prevents brake dust from bonding to them so you can just spray them off to keep them clean between applications.
For my black plastic trim and weather stripping I use 303 Aerospace Protectant once in the fall and once in the spring and it keeps it looking like new plastic and not greasy or overly shiny. The 303 has UV protection that prevents fading as well.
K I've read several people use that car guys super cleaner. Is that all you put on your interior ever or do I need to add a UV protector after like 303 UV protectant?
https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=303+aerospace&qid=1573275554&s=automotive&sr=1-2
https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_17?crid=1EFS4NLOZAJ5Q&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant&qid=1555941043&s=automotive&sprefix=303+aerospace%2Cautomotive%2C135&sr=1-17
​
anyone try 303's UV protectant?
​
also if i use the regular 303 and buy by the gallon there isnt anything inherently special about the spray bottle correct? gallon is $37 while 32oz spraybottle is $20...
best there is. . Significantly better that armor all products in my opinion.
I used a 5,000 grit sandpaper from the auto parts and headlamp polishing. You need to be patient and do a few applications. I feel like I am not done but it sure looks a lot better than when I picked it up :)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12310-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B0000AY3SR
Ouch....You could try out [Meguiars M17] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXMD6/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466456170&sr=sr-1&keywords=plastic+cleaner) and or [Megs PlastX] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12310-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41KHjV%2BR9bL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=FWYTEAE959PHVWTSJDX9)
If you have a cordless drill purchase the 3M lens cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396048236&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+lens+cleaner
There are more than enough pads in there for 2 headlights. Take off your front bumper and put up your hood, this will make the task so much easier. Triple painters tape the paint around top and sides. Get a squirt bottle from Autozone, Homedepot, etc and fill it with water. Take your time, it should take around 45 minutes to do both.
Also do them at the same time, each step. Don't complete one and move to the other.
Afterwords protect and clean with: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1396048450&sr=8-5&keywords=3m+lens+cleaner
You can clean them up with Meguiar's PlastX. I use them to polish up my headlights a bit, but it works for all kinds of plastic. $6 on Amazon
The idea is to use a chemical meant to reverse oxidation in plastics like headlight lenses, but on the laser lens. I've heard of people using this product to buff the lens: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR
Re: pots, I think it can work if you have an oscilloscope and the repair manual to get the values, but otherwise it's kind of a fool's errand IMO
The Meguiar's PlastX costs $6.47 on Amazon. Instead go to Dollar Tree and get some toothpaste that works just as well.
Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish - 10 oz. by Meguiar's http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_PiNyub18GBBVM
This stuff works wonders, but it takes a few coats though.
Sure. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR
Perhaps some plastic polish? Im not sure if it will quite give it a glossy finish so much though, but a lot of people favor this it seems, haven't tried it myself.
Yeah, it was hardware issue - plastic was making scratchy noise, i added some plastic cleaner/polish and that annoying noise is gone so far.
Looks like you can clean it. Copper should be pretty easy. Plenty of info on that. Acrylic can be a biatch though. I use Meguiar's PlasticX and a microfiber cloth (and in your case a toothbrush). Just be sure to rinse it really well with DW. The question really is "is at block worth the time to clean?" as it will take quite a bit of elbow grease.
I think you're probably out of luck on the buttons (unless you want to disassemble the fob and figure out a way to machine polish them), but for the plastic back, maybe Meguiar's PlastX would make a difference?
Temporary fixes are fairly simple.
Just about any rubbing compound will knock off the layer of oxidation.
For example, wheel-polish. For a very good fix, either buy a full headlight restore kit. Or put together your own.
I've had very good luck with Meguiars's PlastX followed by Klasse Sealant Glaze
Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish - The plastic exterior on my Jeep Liberty looks terrible and it makes me sad!
My wishlist! Thanks!
Meguiar's Plastx is my go to for dustcover (and headlight) cleaning.
Clean as much of the dust off as you can by spraying it down with the kitchen sink sprayer, as if you just drag a rag over it, the dirt will cause a bunch of tiny scratches in the cover. After that, hit it with the Plastx (basically, you use it like you would a car wax - use a pad to work it in, and then buff it out).
PlastX is $7 on Amazon.
Or, you could buy a bottle of this and make it look new again. I've tried it and it works on fine scratches. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AY3SR?pc_redir=1409971466&robot_redir=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AY3SR
Here's something simple and relatively cheap you can try. You can find it at any auto parts store or even Walmart. It's good for light scratches and scuffs on a variety of plastics, just make sure to use a microfiber cloth (probably stocked within a 5 ft radius of the Plastx), and test a small spot first. If nothing else, it's good for cleaning plastics so while the scuffs might be there still, the rest of the body should be nice and shiny.
Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).
Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.
If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.
As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This worked amazing : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just wanted to add my humble advice on the jean stains. I had horrible ones from dark jeans on my tan leather. Using Lexol Leather Cleaner and a Kiwi Horse Hair Brush with a tiny bit of water completely removed the stains for me. I follow up with Lexol Leather Conditioner.
Hi! I'm a super newbie to detailing and want to start with the interior of my car. I have a 2001 Lexus LS 430 that is in mostly good shape, but the interior black leather has never(!) been cleaned or conditioned (yikes!). It has only normal wear though, no weird staining, for the most part has only been used by adults (no kids) and no food/drink in the car, so just body oils and dirt from time.
I want to use Mothers Leather Wash Foaming Cleaner, based on a few posts I've seen in this forum and am wondering where to buy one of those soft bristle brushes I see used in this video and this post? Do you think a specific leather-cleaning product is necessary or should I just use a Meguiar's APC diluted (as mentioned here)?
I'm also still confused about whether or not to condition the leather after--I've seen conflicting information about coating on the leather that makes conditioning pointless.
Right now, I am leaning towards coating since my leather is so old and definitely does look a little dry/creased (no cracking yet, thank god!), I'll probably get the Lexol conditioner if so.
Also, for the dash and door panels, which are covered in leather, can I use the general 303 or Meguiar protective treatments on them or is there a leather-specific product?
The full list of what I intend to get to clean the interior of my car:
Just wondering what you all think and if you have any tips!
read the owners manual, for seats it says to use http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-430033-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B0002F9YIC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398478927&sr=8-2&keywords=lexor
also maguires makes alot of good products.
From AE;
2x creams = $15.30
2x brushes = $17
2x dauber = $8.50
1x heel and edge dressing = $4.68
Lexol conditioner = $8.50 http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1013-Leather-Conditioner-Liter/dp/B000637TNM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416599681&sr=8-1&keywords=lexol
Lexol cleaner = $7 http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-430033-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B0002F9YIC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416599766&sr=8-3&keywords=lexol
$61, and arguably better.
The clean I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-E301125500-pH-balanced-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B0002F9YIC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=lexol&qid=1558492876&s=gateway&sr=8-6
To condition I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-E301125000-Leather-Conditioner-16-9/dp/B0002F9YHI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=lexol&qid=1558492876&s=gateway&sr=8-5
I don't really bother waterproofing all my gear since it never rains in SoCal, but I do reapply a layer of paraffin wax to my boots once a year. Buy a box from walmart for a few bucks, take one of the bricks, melt it onto the leather with a hairdryer or heatgun, rub into a thin transparent layer with a rag.
For winter, I wear a proper wool sweater. For more winter, wear more sweater.
I do not live in the states, as far as I saw on amazon they do not ship the montana or the bickmore to my country, the only thing they ship is lexol.
do you think these will do?
https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1015N-Leather-Conditioner-16-9-oz/dp/B0002F9YHI/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1478536199&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=lexol+conditioner
https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1115-Interior-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B0002F9YIC/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WS6AGH8YGVGRPKAFBA34
do you know if these are all natural colour? the brown packaging scares me that it will be brown hehe...
and Ill buy a horse brush.
do I need anything else beside these three in your opinion?
I think ill probably condition every 4 months and clean with a cleaner maybe once a year depending on the dirt.
do you think that will do?
currently the boot still has shine to it and is pretty soft to touch
I have also heard good things about Griot's Garage and Lexol for leather products.
Lexol has a combo kit that is pretty good for interiors. I know a buddy that uses it.
Which of the CG leather care products do you use? Sometimes they have so many similar products that it can be hard to find the right one.
I asked a similar question a while back, and it seems you clean it with leather cleaner and then treat it with a leather conditioner. Leather is treated animal skin, so you want to use a 'lotion' of sorts to keep it supple after you clean it.
I've been using this one for a couple years and love it. I apply before winter and then once before storing shoes for the summer. I use this cleaner before applying the wax. All in all it usually takes 20 mins per shoe.
Meguirs leather cleaner and conditioner: [https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU]
Meguiar's G10916 Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner & Conditioner - 15.2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XPDrDbCNYHBM5
Does it have any difference which color is the leather? I think it is pretty much stupid question :-) But I have no idea, how to maintain it. My car leather is beige.
I have tinted windows, but it mostly in the sun when I am at work.
I guess this is what you've suggested: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU
Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002V9IFU
The spray is a bit more diluted than a good cream leather cleaner, but it works. Buff well with a cloth while applying. Maybe try a q-tip or a toothpick for the holes if stuff remains.
Obenauf's Leather Preserver. I've used it for a while now on all my leather boots. It will darken but damn does it work well. Beeswax for waterproofing and oils to hydrate and protect the leather. Great stuff.
maybe i wasnt taking care of my redwings. Does this help the life of them? They ALWAYS crack right behind the steel toe
Spot this guide. I've learned that /u/a_robot_with_dreams is a god with GYW.
Interesting enough, only a few hours ago was I reading about shoe care today. So basically, unless you are trudging through the depths of hell, stick with just leather conditioner. That can be [Venetian shoe cream] (http://www.foresupplyco.com/productDetail.asp_Q_catID_E_48_A_subCatID_E_55_A_productID_E_703_A_strSession_E_11CDE680EB31BEC5B749AC768C51E5CDB07E9B03), Obernauf's leather oil cleaner, or whatever. You will not need all those waxes and such, as mixed in with Obernauf's Heavy Duty LP. Do your best to not use too much conditioner.
Seems like the steps are, when you do your monthly or biannual or whatever schedule conditioning you choose...:
5a. Optional: Polish or wax if you're a clean mofo or likes to get down and dirty like mentioned above. Re: Polishing (and wax?)...seems like it's mostly on dress shoes and formal footwear. Since we're talking about boots, skip
Repeat every blue moon or something.
Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative 8 oz - Preserves and Protects Leather - Made in the US https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002X520S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_waqJAbQCSP786
The best: https://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B0002X520S
Rub some Obenauf's Leather Protecter onto your Sperrys, best decision I've made when it comes to leather products.
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B0002X520S
I got those boots from this image in one of the sidebar guides, where they are in the "cool, mostly dry" weather category.
I don't know exactly what that means, but it doesn't really sound like enough for what I'm hoping my next pair of shoes can endure -- I live in Michigan, and park outside during the winter. I don't need to be able to do shoveling in these or anything, but I do have to sometimes walk through foot-deep snow.
I suppose that this is what you guys are referring to? It looks good to me.
Obenhauf's leather preservative is fairly popular on /r/leathercraft. I use it on all of my straps, and as mentioned, it does darken the color for awhile, but it works wonders for keeping the sweat out. Sno Seal is another popular product, but I haven't personally used that.
Heavy Duty LP I'd guess; so something like Obenaufs. Basically stuff that will help make the boots waterproof/water resistant, but it can/will also darken the color of the leather.
Leather is skin and should be thought of in the same way. Skin remains supple due to the presence of oils, and leather jackets are no exception. When you're taking a shower, the water washes away some of the oils from your hair and skin, and the same thing happens to the oils in your jacket in rain. This can result in the leather becoming dry, and dry skin cracks and can peel and become damaged. But leather is also dead, and cannot heal like our living skin can.
Much like skin, with proper care this effect can be mitigated and repaired to an extent. With our skin, we exfoliate and moisturize to remove dead skin and protect the rest from drying out. The same things are done to leather. If your jacket gets wet, wipe as much of the water as you can and let it dry fully. Then use a horsehair brush to gently exfoliate the area. If it's dry and brittle, use a leather oil.
There are leather oils to specifically protect against rain, though they can also darken the leather, and leave it a bit greasy. My favorite is Obenhauf's LP. It is highly effective but be sure to apply properly!
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B0002X520S
I love love love leather dye it really is so easy. I have dyed coats, purses, boots, and a pair of pants so far. I use Fiebings Leather Dye amazon link. There are lots of tutorials out there but I'll tell you what works for me. This is for boots because I wanted them to last, purses coats etc were a lot less steps but anyway!
0-I didn't do this step because the chemical is illegal to buy in California but if you have a coated leather piece, something that's really shiny is usually how you would tell I gather, you would use a leather stripper here. But again I never did this.
1-Wash with Fiebings Saddle Soap
2-After it dries paint on your leather dye. I always did two coats although a lot of times it didn't need it.
3-After that dries buff the item to remove excess dye. If you forget to do that (like I do sometimes) dye will rub off on stuff.
4-Coat the item with something to perseve leather. I use either Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative or Obenauf's Leather Oil
That's it! And I definitely find the item looks a lot better after dye. The Obenaufs makes leather look amazing. And it's not animal oil so I like it a lot more than mink oil say.
Ok I was really debating between Obenauf's or sno seal, but I think you convinced me about Obernauf. But which Obenauf's should I use the heavy duty lp http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Heavy-Duty-4oz-Preserves/dp/B003SKCARK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-1&keywords=Obenauf%27s
The boot preservative
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B0002X520S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-2&keywords=Obenauf%27s
Or the silicone water shield
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Silicone-Water-Shield-Environmentally/dp/B002UBLSO4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-6&keywords=Obenauf%27s
Or maybe a combination of the heavy duty lp and the silicone water shield? I don't want to spend more money then necessary but before I take my boots out into the world I want to make sure they're properly prepared for the elements. Oh and thanks for the help guys! All of this is very informative and helpful.
Obenhauf's: http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B0002X520S
I use a leather conditioner and some sort of light waterproofing. Kiwi Leather Lotion is pretty basic and cheap and is a nice entry-level leather conditioner. As for waterproofing, you can use a silicone waterproofing spray, or something like Obenauf's or Sno-Seal, or for very light protection, you can use a wax polish.
I wipe my boots down with a apple cider vinegar/water mix and a couple times a year coat them with some Obenaufs
It should work fine, but I'd further protect/waterproof it with Obeneuf's LP.
Choose half a size down from your Brannock size
Whoops how about Einszett Cockpit Premium
nextzett 92470515 Cockpit Premium - 16.9 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Z2MZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Lp9nDbAH0FMJT
Figured my routine might be useful to people looking at this kind of thing:
For the interior I highly, highly recommend using Nextzett Cockpit Premium. I ordered like 23 different interior products off of Amazon and it was the only one I liked for a true matte look inside that didn’t smell weird. I use it on everything except the screen, and it really does a great job of cleaning without leaving behind shine or residue.
I use a Sunjoe pressure washer for the outside, and a foam cannon. I use Adams Ultra Foam on my wife’s M3, and on mine I use CarPro Reset (I have Xpel Stealth). I use the two bucket method after foaming the car down. The pressure washer is super easy to use and was a great investment.
I dry with an Adams Air Cannon and it’s amazing if you are washing your car in your garage or driveway. No messing with towels or possible scratches. It’s extremely powerful, I was pretty surprised. Plus the air is warm and filtered.
For wheels I use Griots Heavy Duty Wheel cleaner, with a Chemical Guys brush. I’ve never been a “clean your wheels” kind of guy before my Tesla, but it’s really easy to do.
For interior scent, I have tried countless products. It’s actually almost sad how many car scent products I have tried (not a smoker, just like a good smelling car). The only one that I would recommend is Ozium in the can, not aerosol. It has a light citrus smell that gets tons of compliments like “your car always smells so clean and fresh, not fake or like cologne”. The only other close contender is Dr Beasleys Leather, closely followed by their New Car Scent. It’s actually the only New Car scent I can stand. I settled on Ozium because it’s set and forget. I keep a small can in the front of my car, and a big can in the trunk.
I hate waterless washing for the most part (saving the planet aside) just because it’s never really as effective as a full wash without ten times the work. ONR is a good product though, and easy to use.
Best thing I ever did on both of our M3s is getting a professional ceramic coating put on. Washing is about ten times as easy as it was before, and drying is about 20x. Definitely recommend it, on both a wrapped or unwrapped car.
It's actually Cockpit Premium: https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-92470515-Cockpit-Premium-16-9/dp/B0002Z2MZ4
It works great for car interiors and old plastics / laptops / etc.
This. Only this.
And a microfiber towel
nextzett 92470515 Cockpit Premium - 16.9 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Z2MZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yoq9Ab8WR6WHS
I just cleaned the interior of my new 6 with products/techniques from /r/autodetailing. Its a great sub.
For the dash/panels/screen, I brushed dust gently with a horsehair brush (I bought a new shoeshine brush). Spray a little 1z Cockpit Premium on a microfiber cloth and wiped down. Then I wiped again with a dry cloth. Nice clean matte finish, not the super slick & shiny Armor All look. I used Lexol leather cleaner on my leather seats, after brushing the dust off.
Here's the interior cleaner I used, but there are others. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z2MZ4?pc_redir=1395735928&robot_redir=1
Anybody use this stuff?
use this first to clean the leather, following instructions on box, and then condition the seats using this stuff
Lexol is quite recommended and very cheap. This 1 litre can lasts you very long and is cheaper. There are smaller bottles too, if you don't need so much.
And yes Kiwi works well.
Dumb question but this lexol is the one everyone refers to right and not the "non darkening one" or the neadsfoot one?
I just use lexol. I'm sure MFA will have a million different things they recommend but it works for me.
Some Lexol leather conditioner will do wonders for the general dryness. Nothing lasts forever, but keep high-quality leather properly conditioned (for skates, I'd say condition every 3-6 months or so) and it'll last a long long time.
Any cobbler should be able to fix little things like a broken strap. I live in a northern city so it's easy to find shops that specialize in hockey boots, but anyone who works on boots regularly would be a good choice. You could also contact the manufacturer (if they still are in business) to see if they offer a recrafting service - they usually love to see their well-worn boots come in for a little TLC.
I would want No More Trouble Zones because I love Jillian's workouts and I use them to keep the "trouble zones" managed. plus, my sister is being a meanie and taking her copy of it to college with her this fall...brat lol
I would really enjoy either this or this!
Thanks for the contest!
Edit: Twinsies
I've had good luck with Lexol and there is a lot of info about it all over the web.
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1013-Leather-Conditioner-Liter/dp/B000637TNM
1 liter.
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1013-Leather-Conditioner-1-Liter/dp/B000637TNM
This one says preservatives under the title, but it should still be okay right? When applying do you coat the entire shoe with a thin layer?
ok Thanks, is this the same product as you listed before?
One more! Lexol conditioner, 1 liter. Half hour left on this one
https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1013-Leather-Conditioner-1-Liter/dp/B000637TNM/ref=gbps_img_m-6_f45d_0b3df79f?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=c624455a-ed52-4f78-9f81-675ed6faf45d&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=13887280011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=P05NPJBV4Z16AESBVF0K
And another foam cannon
https://www.amazon.com/DUSICHIN-SFL-001-Pressure-Release-Adjustable/dp/B00WPKHFA6/ref=gbps_img_m-6_f45d_90581759?smid=A3V0XY0I1N8OZ5&pf_rd_p=c624455a-ed52-4f78-9f81-675ed6faf45d&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=13887280011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=P05NPJBV4Z16AESBVF0K
hey sorry, one more question.
this lexol page on amazon has two 8oz versions of Lexol conditioner. Do you know if one is better than the other?
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1013-Leather-Conditioner-Liter/dp/B000637TNM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377032574&sr=8-1&keywords=lexol
I would recommend Lexol Leather Conditioner
Would some like this be good to condition natural OSB trenches? I don't want anything to darken them up. I just want to prevent any water damage/ take care of the leather. Should I even bother conditioning them?
also, a few weeks ago i bought meguiars quick interior detailer cleaner but it didnt really help. it was this http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1409631434&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiars+quick+detailer#cm_cr_dpwidget
Hi, beginner here. The dash on my '08 Sonata is looking a bit sad and faded (pic here, ignore shadows and camera artifacts), and I was hoping to clean and restore it.
Would a combination of Megs Quick Interior Detailer (which I already have), plus 303 Aerospace work well? I also have Simple Green if that's better, but not sure what dilution ratio would work well. Thanks!
Sounds (smells?) like they're using an interior detailer, similar to Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner.
what do you think about Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer? i really don't like glossy/oily surfaces on my interior, unless they are made that way.
how would you compare APC to it, if you have used the Quik?
I have the Weather Tech mats and they're awesome.
I keep a microfiber towel in the glove box for quick wipe downs, but every few weeks or so, I'll use Meguiar's to clean the interior.
I have a jump starter just in case anything went wrong! Beyond that, hmm... I'm not entirely sure. I have done some light modding to my CX-5, but nothing that are like, "OH MAN, GET THIS!"
All right, so this or this? And should I get an applier like this, or can I just use a regular sponge?
Thank you guys! Question-- should I get both the cleaner and the conditioner and apply both or should I just condition it?
And this is the correct product right? https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1015N-Leather-Conditioner-16-9-oz/dp/B000QFORK8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474643721&sr=8-2&keywords=lexol&th=1
My shell feels dry, should I use this?
This is the one I use. Works great, no complaints.
I haven't used it myself, but a lot of people tend to recommend Lexol Leather Conditioner if you just want to protect the leather without any discoloration. Keep in mind it does not repel water like Obenauf's or other beeswax products would.
Ha, well that's annoying. How's this link. No, you only need to condition them when the leather starts to feel dry.
They'll only take a week or two to break in if you wear them all day. I picked up some Lexol leather conditioner for my Top Siders based on recommendations here and elsewhere. Really awesome results – softer leather that's a little darker and much richer in color.
I'd recommend this if you don't want your leather to darken.
Bickmore Bick 4 Leather Conditioner 8 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CS2Q4M/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_OJ4Utb0SRK0SYSYE
I've used bick4 for a lot of years. I use it on everything from boots that step on shit in a pasture, to my high end lucchese boots.
Thanks again, I'll probably head down to a shoe store and try to match colors like you said.
One last question, is something like Bick 4 Leather conditioner better or worse than Lexol leather conditioner?
Never heard of Skidmores before
Is it better to use than Bick4?
I love this one! I’ve used it on light, dark, and textured leather and it has never darkened the color or left residue for me.
I’ve used a couple (from Lexol to Turtle Wax), but right now I really like this one! It also helps with developing a faux patina if you don’t like how light the vachetta appears at first.
I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CS2Q4M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
but yeh my wallet is soft, but it isn't greasy, just a bit shiny. Idk.
I'm a fan of Obenauf's Leather Oil, doesn't wax the pores like the LP (too heavy for even most footwear, IMO) but will soak in nicely. Wipe down your jacket of excess, and leave to proof somewhere warm for a while.
Not familiar with the Saphir product, but I use (Obenaufs Leather oil)[https://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Leather-Condition-Restore-Applicator/dp/B003EAW57E]
on my CXL Alden Indy's and don't have any issues with water damage after 6 years of pretty un-babied use.
This stuff?
Obenauf's Leather Oil Condition Restore Dry Leather (16oz With Applicator) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EAW57E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rOz4CbWBSMAD0
Yeah, you probably need a good cleaning with saddle soap. You can get it on Amazon.
Then get a good polishing in with obenauf.
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Leather-Oil-16oz-Restores/dp/B003EAW57E
Got to keep your boots oiled. I use Obenauf's once every four to six months depending on weather conditions.
I just bought my very first pair of Timberland Original Yellow boots. I want to protect them while keeping the same soft and matte texture/look of the boots. My plan is to put mink oil or Obenauf's Heavy Duty Beeswax on the boots and brush them with a soft brush to make it soft and matte.
The guy in this video used mink oil and brushed them off using a soft brush to restore the original look and feel of the boots.
I know mink oil and beeswax will darken the leather. I don't mind that at all. How to protect my first pair of Timberland?
Basic mineral oil or beeswax or a combo.
You can gently melt down some beeswax IN mineral oil and then rub it all in, let it dry, and then wipe off excess.
Even simpler is to get some Howard's Butcher Block Conditioner at Lowes or Home Depot. It is just beeswax and mineral oil pre-mixed. It works best if gently heated or if you apply it to your handle and then use a hair dryer to gently heat the handle. That way the wax and oil get deep down in the leather.
You could also use Obenauf's to condition and protect.
Winter Clothing/Underwear
In the fall I would wear whatever sweater was on sale at Goodwill.
For the colder winter months I wore a heavy Carhartt jacket and layered as necessary, normally using old/retired ARMY-issued polypropylene underwear.
I bought this around 7 years ago and it's awesome to have in cold weather.
Long Sleeve
For a long sleeve I would always wear these Hanes Cool Dri T-Shirt's in the summer. They claim 50+ UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) though I'm sure that high of a rating only applies to the black ones and it will slowly go down as you put it through the wash. I bought the safety green ones over a year ago and haven't noticed any change in sun protection so far. They were holding up too witch was impressive with my line of work at the time (railroad labor).
Pants
I started wearing whatever blue jeans I found at Goodwill but they would always end up having holes after a month or so. I used that saved money and waited to for a 25% off sale to buy a few pairs of Duluth Firehouse pants (the originals, not those quick-dry things). I've returned 1 pair so far after 2 years even though I staggered them every day. I suspect I may have over-washed them (weekly)?
Hats
I was required to wear a hard hat so I bought this sun shade that wrapped around the brim, it worked out very nicely because 50% of the work involved bending over, exposing the back of your neck to the sun.
Socks
I bought Darn Tough socks and haven't looked back since.
Boots
I went through a few brands of boots before I found the perfect pair of Chippewa's. All other boots I tried were uncomfortable in the toe area. I was restricted to certain boot requirements from the railroad: 8", defined heel, safety toe, laced. I also put on some KG's Boot Guard before I wore out the leather on the toe area, use masking tape to make it look good! As for boot care, I opted for Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP because of the water and chemical resistance. Any time I needed to clean my boots I used Dawn (yes, the dish soap). For a thorough (bi-yearly) cleaning I used Murphy Oil Soap (yes, the wood cleaner).
Lunch Box
As for a lunch box, a basic small cooler/ice chest will do the job just fine for storing hot or cold items (not both at once!). They're well insulated, cheap, and beat broken zippers, ripped cloth, or dented metal any day.
Canteen
COLD: I bought this Coleman 1 Gallon Jug about 5 years ago at Goodwill for $2 and it still looks brand new today.
HOT: This Stanley One Hand Vacuum Mug was the best money I ever spent. It's awesome for driving without spillage and relatively easy to use while wearing insulated gloves. Sadly my first one was ran over by a coworker but I quickly bought another.
Sunscreen
Find whatever works for you, but keep in mind that high SPF ratings are pretty much marketing. SPF 15 = 94% UVB protection and SPF 45 = 98% UVB protection. As far as I'm aware you cannot obtain 100% UVB protection from sunscreen.
Sunglasses
Again, find whatever feels most comfortable to you, everybody is different. I was required to wear safety glasses which means polycarbonate lenses, they are known to scratch easily. Because of that, I found a pair that could be cheap enough to replace when necessary. Yes, my company did provide them, but they were incredibly uncomfortable to wear for 8+ hours a day.
Other
Having a few bandanas will always come in handy.
If you need gloves, your leather choices are between grain and patched. Grain is much more expensive, takes some breaking into, is water resistant and very durable. Patched is pretty much the exact opposite of grain. My goto brand was Kinco.
I may add more if I can think of anything else.
EDIT 1 - Forgot a link..
To waterproof your boots you can use:
SNO-SEAL
Obenauf HD/LP
They will both darken your both considerably
Totally, as long as its boot specific oil it should work fine. The most highly regarded brand (and what I personally use) is Obenaufs, it is a little more expensive but that tub should last about a year or so.
It's important to get the dirt off before oiling, some folks use Saddle Soap or similar to strip all the dirt/chemicals off first. Dirt and especially harsh chemicals can dry out and damage the leather if left on for extended periods. Personally, my boots are usually just dirty (no chemicals) so I give mine a good scrub with water, let em dry overnight, then use the oil on em. It's important to spend some time rubbing the oil in so that it really soaks in instead of just sitting on the surface. Some folks leave their boots in the sun for awhile to warm them up to aid absorption.
Anyway, I usually once every 2-3 weeks or whenever the leather seems dry (depends on the environment). You can over-oil boots, however, so I wouldn't do it more often than that myself.
Yes. The BLO should be good enough for a working tool. I replace the finish on all my hammers and axes with BLO and they hold up well. The BLO/beeswax can feel nicer in the hand but I'm not sure that it is tougher. Though the leather will do a better job of absorbing the melted wax then wood does.
For leather I prefer obenauf over generic mink oil. I think it does a better job but I haven't run a side by side test. I put that on all leather products so I would put that on first out of habit.
Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP is 20% off at Amazon
if I can't use it everyday without wearing it out, then I don't consider it BIFL... sure, they'll need to be resoled eventually, but that's any pair of boots. If you're worried about the leather drying out, then this is the stuff to use: http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Heavy-Duty-4oz-Preserves/dp/B003SKCARK
Smoke jumpers use it to protect their boots from heat and caustic ash... they still have to buy a $400 pair of boots every season, but for me it has kept my Danners with 100s of miles on them feeling soft and looking like new
You can treat anything but suede, nubuck, and rough out leathers with Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative after its been cleaned. It should help preserve your boots.
*formatting
Well these don't take to snow/rain too well. I recommend to get some obenauf's LP to somewhat waterproof it. It won't make it a rain boot but it will make it water resistant.
Clean off salt stains on the thing and you should be fine for light snow and small amounts of rain. Of course, let it dry if you were soaking in some rain/snow. Applying the obenauf's also darkens the leather to make it look more like a darker version beeswax on the desert boot (which is the crepe sole with a slightly darker leather , see here for comparison).
The leather will lighten up over time after applying obenauf and I actually have pictures here of only the after shots with about 3 months of wear after obenaufs LP (I also applied obenauf's oil though so it is actually darker than it should be).
If its leather then any sort of leather conditioner should age it nicely. One of the best ones to use is Obenauf's Leather Preserve. It darkens up the leather and seals it real well.
Shoes:
You'll have to keep re-treating, and watch out for issues like gumboot (clogged leather pores). I've also read that treating with liquid oil like mink instead of wax can weaken the leather by hydrating it and making it, yes, more supple -- but also softer.
Pants:
Ditch jeans. KUHL makes the best field pants I've tried. They're more durable, lighter, and are generally very good. Go to an REI to see how different versions fit. KUHL makes jeans and similar pants, too, but their lighter field pants are much better in most conditions.
Socks...too many options, none of them stood out for me. As long as you have enough pairs of thick hiking socks and can cycle through clean pairs every day or so, you should be fine. Synthetic socks typically dry faster than wool. That's about the only major / consistent difference in my experience.
Thanks! Couple questions:
When you say you wipe off salt stains with vinegar you mean applying standard cooking vinegar to a shoe rag and rubbing around to try to get the salt stain out?
And are these the products you use: Obenauf's Leather Oil during normal times and then apply their heavy duty leather protector for the rough weather?
Same here, I got some Timberland lightweight boots and the toe separated after two months of wearing them to work. On the other hand, my Pros are holding up great after three years of winter abuse. Just don't forget to give them a rub down, I recommend this stuff.
I just got a pair of Johnston & Murphy dark brown oxfords and they are made out of sheepskin leather. Can I use my usual boot leather conditioner/protector (listed here) on these, combined with a damp rag wipe when necessary?
I was reading around and the only info I could find was on this site stating "To protect your sheepskin from cracking or drying out, a leather conditioner specifically for sheepskin is essential." Is this true? I would rather not have to go back to the store and buy their shoe cream if I don't have to. Or if anyone knows of an alternative on Amazon that would be cool.
Thanks!!!
I'm not sure about lightening the color, as most conditioners that you apply to boots will slightly darken the leather, at least temporarily.
If you'd like to give them a bit of protection, you may want to try something like this after cleaning off any dirt with a brush, rag, or whatever. That should help the suppleness of the leather and offer a slight bit of weather protection.
When people say they used Obenauf's is THIS what you mean? How many pairs of boots can I handle with 4 oz?
I work as a detailer and my tool of choice is a brush with rubber "teeth" on it similar to [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_S06-Professional-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U)
I swear by this one. Only $7 and works like magic. Hold a shop vac and brush into it. The carpet looks brand new again (sans stains if you have that, but that's different)
Rubber Pet Hair Removal Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042B4B3U/
I see that you've already solved your problem, but for the future, rubber brushes like these are super helpful for getting cat hair off of fabric.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACCS06-Professional-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1422610539&sr=8-23&keywords=dog+hair+brush
Try a rubber comb/brush/broom, e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACCS06-Professional-Removal/dp/B0042B4B3U
But instead of pulling it straight down through your beard like a normal comb or brush, draw it in a shaky side-to-side motion from top to bottom so that the rubber bristles work their way in among your beard hairs.
I've had great luck removing cat hair with either of these items:
Pet Rock
Rubber Pet Hair Remover Brush
If you follow the brush or the rock with a vacuum it makes really quick work of pet hair.
This one by chemical guys looks a lot better than the one I have, mine is tiny. I think I'll be buying this one the bristles look identical this version is just larger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042B4B3U/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?qid=1398693252&sr=8-20&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
The plastic on that cluster makes me uncomfortable. Must... Plastix
http://www.amazon.com/Chippewa-Mens-Rugged-Handcrafted-Lace-Up/dp/B0036VN9WG
paired with:
http://www.amazon.com/Superfeet-Green-Premium-Insoles-Womens/dp/B002T0072U/ref=sr_1_1?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1417477581&sr=1-1&keywords=superfeet+green
and
http://www.amazon.com/Kirkland-Signature-Outdoor-Trail-Merino/dp/B00LFLOUI6
and
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1013-Leather-Conditioner-Liter/dp/B000637TNM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417477693&sr=8-1&keywords=lexol+conditioner
Your feet will be in heaven. Superfeet will make a MASSIVE difference standing on concrete. I have the exact same above setup for working as a Realtor. On my feet all day long (showing homes and open houses) and my feet are always cozy and comfy!
Cleaner
Rejuvenator
Conditioner
I use these on my handmade boots to keep them in good condition.
Also, watch some youtube videos.
> you should periodically add rubber protector or conditioner to the weather stripping / seal to keep it conditioned.
Had never heard of this, so I went and bought this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T44D1R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the heads up!
Paper is a fabric too, why not compare it?
> good luck getting it fully out without damaging your device.
This is where you're wrong, an alcantara cleaner can easily clean stains/dirt (read the reviews, people even mention cleaning their SP4 alcantara keyboards effectively which isn't coated like the surface laptop).