Best internal computer networking cards according to redditors

Amazon itself, not just the third party sellers, is selling dubious product. The reviews for this Intel network card report that Amazon is selling counterfeits. It's shipped from and sold by Amazon. After seeing that I decided to not renew my Prime membership.

Here's a photo from the review.

USB pros: much easier to install, plug and play

PCI pros; faster speeds, more reliable

USB LINK: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T2UH/dp/B00UZRVY12

PCI LINK: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A

Oh so I can get a real Intel gigabit Ethernet card now? Nope they're still selling fakes.

Here's an intel chipset wifi card for the same price. bonus bluetooth as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6

Hello hello, first-time poster here. I've been lurking around this thread for a while now and after recently completing a new PC build, I decided it was time to put some effort into my battlestation as well. I call this... Japanese Steampunk. Maybe not so much steampunk, but I do really like the copper and wood elements.

[EDIT] Yes, I know this isn't steampunk. I'm sorry, I wish I could change the title but I can't. I had steampunk elements in mind when designing the room, hence the title, so I apologize for misleading anyone. Let's just all focus on the Japanese elements, then! :D

For the computer, I did my best to go with as much white as I could. Many of the parts (especially the peripherals) were chosen with the color and a budget in mind. My original intention was to use one monitor for my PC and the other for console gaming, but the boyfriend ended up hooking his PC up to the second monitor so that we can play Overwatch side-by-side, ha.

The desk and shelving were custom-made by me with parts from IKEA, a little spraypaint, and a few power tools.

I haven't added up what everything cost me, but I'm going to ballpark around $2500. Not cheap, but pretty good considering that this setup will last me for years.

Computer
-------------------
Case

• NZXT S340 Glossy White Steel ATX Mid Tower Case
  
  Motherboard
  
• ASUS TUF SABERTOOTH Z170 S
  
  CPU
  
• Intel Core i5-6600K 6M Skylake Quad-Core 3.5 GHz
  
  RAM
  
• Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 32GB (4 x 8GB)
  
  Cooling
  
• Corsair Air Series AF140 140mm, white, ENERMAX ETS-T40F-W 120mm Twister Aluminum 120mm, white
  
  Graphics card
  
• ASUS GTX 900 GeForce GTX 970
  
  Harddrive
  
• Crucial BX200 2.5" 480GB SATA III Internal Solid State Drive
  
  Power
  
• EVGA 220-GS-0850-V1 80 PLUS GOLD
  
  Wireless
  
• TP-LINK Archer T9E AC1900 Dual Band Wireless PCI Express Adapter
  
  Peripherals
  -------------------
  Monitors
  
• Vizta V32Lmh1 White 31.5" 8ms HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor
  
  Keyboard
  
• SADES K10 LED Backlit Wired USB Mechanical Keyboard
  
  Mouse
  
• GW SADES S7 Flash Wing PC Gaming Mouse
  
  Speakers
  
• Logitech Multimedia Speakers Z200
  
  Headphones
  
• Sony MDRZX110 ZX Series Stereo Headphones
  
  Headphone stand
  
• Just Mobile HS-100GD HeadStand, gold
  
  Phone stand
  
• elago M2 Stand, gold
  
  Lighting
  
• Jansjo Copper work lamp, Fairy LED Copper Wire String Lights, LED lighting strip
  
  Desk & Shelves
  -------------------
  Karlby counter top, walnut
  
  Godvin legs, white
  
  Capita legs, stainless steel
  
  Signum cable management
  
  Henriksdal chair, brown-black, Nolhaga gray-beige cover
  
  Ekby Stodis shelf brackets
  
  Rustoleum Hammered Copper spraypaint
  

Gigabyte AC PCIe card

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6

Best one for the money - essentially an Intel rebrand. Great speeds, drivers, magnetic antenna for you case, etc. I bought two, and the Intel equivalent for the low profile bracket on my HTPC.

Here, have an upgrade guide. This is mostly oriented for gaming, but I tried to make it as general purpose as possible.

First off, if you're trying to survive gaming on an older system and are wanting to upgrade, remember to check out the PC Gaming Wiki as well as the Low Spec Gamer YouTube channel and /r/lowendgaming. There are lots of tips and tricks to get games running better, and if you discover your own, don't forget to share them!

• If you have a motherboard older than DDR3, save and upgrade to a new platform. It's not worth investing in a platform that old for anything other than novelty purposes.
  
  
• If you want to upgrade your motherboard (like if you're looking at buying an unlocked CPU but have a locked motherboard), save and build a whole new system, unless you happen to come across exactly what you want for cheap. Used motherboards are usually just as expensive as new ones so it's not really worth investing that much into an older platform.
  
  
• If you have an Intel motherboard and want to upgrade your CPU, see my reply to this comment. Character limit, woo!
  
  
• If you have an AMD motherboard, I'm not as experienced with this but upgrading to an 8320 or 8350 Black edition would be good.
  
• I'll do some research and put some detailed information here later; like I did for Intel processors. Again, after the aforementioned good night's rest.
  
  
• When buying any used processor, especially on eBay, be very wary of scams. Any price that seems too good to be true or is from a seller with very little feedback is something of which you should be very wary.
  
  
• If you have less than 8GB of RAM, buy a 2x4GB kit. Dual channel actually makes a difference these days. If you want more, well, divide the amount you want by the number of slots you have. 16GB / 4 slots = 4GB sticks, so get a 4x4GB kit. PCPartPicker is a good resource for this, although new DDR3 is getting more expensive. It might be worth looking at the used market, but be careful you don't buy ECC RAM (server memory) unless you have a motherboard and processor that support it.
  
  
• If your system isn't using an SSD as its boot drive, buy an SSD and reinstall your OS onto it. I don't know if I can recommend a SSD smaller than 250GB considering how cheap they're getting. Brand doesn't matter a whole lot but make sure to do a little research first. PCPartPicker, again, is a great resource for this. Filter by the minimum capacity you want and sort by lowest price, then go from there. Samsung is expensive but reliable; I don't know a lot about other brands.
  
  
• If you're running out of space, 2TB HDDs are pretty cheap and reliable these days. Here's a Seagate one, although I couldn't find Western Digital's equivalent for some reason.
  
  
• I don't really know much about graphics cards other than they're hard to buy new these days. If you buy new, I can't recommend anything with less than 4GB of VRAM, because modern games are getting better at using it. If you buy used, try not to go less than 2GB. Other than that, pick what fits your budget and performance needs, and remember you dont have to run everything on max settings. Dropping the settings a little can allow older cards to still compete today. I still run a 7870 and haven't found any unplayable games yet; 99% of games I get a solid 60, and once I upgrade to an e3-1240v3 that's in the mail I expect that to go to 99.9%.
  
  
• Make sure you have a good PSU. You can get really solid ones for $50 or less these days. Don't forget this one when upgrading your system, unless you already have a good PSU. This is the SeaSonic one I've been recommending a lot. Fully modular and 80 Plus Bronze seems pretty good to me. PSUs are a topic of a lot of controversy, though, so make sure to do your research.
  
  
• Similarly, investing in a case you like will last you a long time and significantly improve a build's appearance. Not its frames, though, so this isn't a priority. Pick one with all the features you want, good cable management options, something you don't mind looking at, that kind of stuff. Look up a review (google "[case name] review") where someone builds a computer in it so you can get an idea of what kind of issues people run into when building in it and if those issues are dealbreakers for you.
  
  
• Optical drives aren't really used this day but if you don't have one it can be worth it to pick one up. Blu-ray drives are getting cheaper, too. PCPartPicker -> optical drives -> filter by features -> sort by price.
  
  
• Monitors I cant speak much on, but if you're gaming at all, get one that goes at least 120hz at its native resolution, and don't get one lower than 1080p. If you don't do any gaming, make sure you get an IPS panel. I personally can't recommend any resolution other than 1080p (1920x1080) because compatibility issues are annoying and most software is either designed to work at 1080p, or have workarounds to run at 1080p. 4k is the next jump worth taking since that seems to be the next big standard (again, in my opinion), but hardware is still a generation or two out from that being mainstream.
  
  
• Multiple monitors are a thing. I don't think I can live with less than 3 monitors again. It's so nice to have a game on the center monitor, a webpage on the left, and a voip program on the right. You can kind of do this with window snapping, but, well, you can also do that with 3 monitors for much more information when you need it.
  
  
• Invest in good network gear. I cannot stress this enough. It will cost a chunk of money but will make your life so much better. If you're renting a modem from your ISP, or your modem/router has your ISP's logo on it, you need to upgrade. I'm currently running the Netgear R7000. If you're on cable internet, get a Motorola SurfBoard and something like the R7000. If you're on DSL, there's a variant that has a phone jack for dialing in. If you have fiber, the ONT that you have isn't replaceable but it's probably fine (but you'll still want to replace the included router). For all of these, you'll probably need to look up a guide on switching and it will probably involve calling your ISP. Expect to spend $200ish on the equipment, but seriously, you won't be constantly rebooting your router, wondering why the WiFi isn't working this time, etc. And a good modem will let you know if it can contact the network or not so you'll know if the internet is actually out or not. And if you're renting a router, you'll save money in the long run.
  
  
• If you're using WiFi, get a good network card. I saw this one linked on this subreddit the other day and it looks pretty good. I've personally found USB WiFi dongles unreliable, but YMMV.
  
  
• Don't forget to upgrade your peripherals. Check out /r/mechanicalkeyboards, /r/steamcontroller (it's about more than just the Steam Controller there, the name is a little misleading TBH), and the YouTube channel Rocket Jump Ninja (he does mouse reviews). I think /r/emulation has had some good threads on controllers, too. There's fun stuff like Mayflash adapters for GameCube controllers, or you could pick up a bluetooth dongle for a DualShock 3 or DualShock 4 (or WiiMote passthrough in Dolphin). There's lots of fun to be had in the peripheral department.
  
  I think that's about everything. Let me know if I missed anything and I'll include it.
  
  edit: Updated some stuff and tried to include more details.

Managed to find a couple options.

Card

Card

Dongle

I don't have any personal recommendations for you, but these ones look pretty good.

Oddly specific of a post I know. But I recall some talk about the lack of heatsinks on the Aquantia NICs from the Black Friday deal. I just received mine and wanted to show, it does have one.

Info on them: https://www.anandtech.com/show/11368/aquantia-launch-aqtion-5g25g1g-nics

EDIT I think this is the current cheapest variant of the Aquantia 10G ($99): https://www.amazon.com/XG-C100C-Network-Adapter-PCI-E-Single/dp/B072N84DG6


BTW, noob question, but what exactly is Direct Access Cache on a NIC? What should it be set to? Any benefit to the other options? Mine is set to "Legacy Descriptor" by default. The other options are: DCA 1.0 Descriptor, DCA 1.0 Packet Header, DCA 1.0 Packet Payload, Disabled, Legacy Packet Header, Legacy Packet Payload.

Found this sub while looking for a new laptop to replace my surface pro 3. I'm a Psychiatry Fellow and spend most of my day typing notes while people speak, so a T series keyboard sounded like a good priority. I also do photography and graphic design on the side, utilizing several Adobe CC products, so 8th Gen processor, upgradeable drive/ram, and color accurate screen were essential. Almost went with X1C6, but ultimately, longevity and value (still just a fellow) were more important than portability and brightness. So in the end, the T480 seemed like the best fit (though I really miss having a touch screen).

Below is my custom config ordered during the Black Friday in July sale, followed by my mods:

Ordered specs:

• 14.0" WQHD (2560 x 1440) 300 nits, IPS anti-glare (non-touch)
  
  
• Intel Core i5-8350U Processor (vPro)
  
  
• 4 GB DDR4 2400MHz ram
  
  
• NVIDIA GeForce MX150 2GB GDDR5
  
  
• IR & 720p HD Camera with microphone (mandatory with WQHD screen)
  
  
• Backlit Keyboard - US English (accidentally ordered without, but realized it and adjusted thanks to you guys!)
  
  
• Fingerprint Reader
  
  
• 128 GB 2.5" SATA3 Solid State Drive
  
  
• Smart Card Reader (for literally zero reason, my only regret)
  
  
• 3 cell Li-Ion 24Wh external battery
  
  
• Intel Dual Band 8265 Wireless AC (2 x 2) & Bluetooth 4.1 with vPro
  
  
• Fibocom L850-GL 4G LTE-A cat 9 WWAN
  
  .
  
  Upgrades on arrival:
  
  
• RAM: HyperX Kingston Technology Impact 32GB Kit (2x16GB) 2400MHz CL14 DDR4 SODIMM HX424S14IBK2/32 Link
  
  
• SSD: addlink S70 2TB NVMe PCIe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 SSD R/W 3500/3000MB/s Link
  
  
• Lenovo internal m.2 Drive Enclosure (ordered as add-on through Lenovo; necessary to install m.2 SSD)
  
  
• Copper NVMe heatsink with thermal pads Link (ultimately, unnecessary because enclosure came with an attached thermal pad, but doubled up anyway and yes it was a tight fit)
  
  
• Extra battery: 6 Cell 72Wh Battery 61++ Link
  
  
• Wi-Fi/Bluetooth 5.0 card: Intel Wireless-AC 9260, 2230, 2x2 AC+BT, Gigabit, vPro Link
  
  
• Wallpaper
  
  The screen is beautiful, and I'm digging the anti-glare matte, though my SP3 glossy screen made colors pop more. I installed the calibrated color profile from the notebookcheck.com review of the T480s with what I assume was the same WQHD screen. Here are the instructions I used from notebookcheck.
  
  Replacing the internal components was a breeze, though unfortunately, I watched the Lenovo disassembly video that showed front clips being disengaged with spudger, so now I have a front gap. Also broke a battery compartment clip but whatever.
  
  I installed windows fresh using a recovery flash drive made before swapping in the NVMe drive. I'm fully updated through both vantage and windows update, which took a few hours.
  
  Ultimately, I'm ridiculously happy with this build. The keyboard is a DREAM except for the annoying fn button placement (who thought this was a good idea?). I threw in a Logitech MX Master 2S for desk work, but honestly, this trackpoint is a game changer when I'm working on my lap.
  
  Any other mod suggestions??? Questions??? Comments???

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/

I have an older model of this, but it works great. it really helps to have an antenna that extends to a higher position that's not directly plugged in to the bottom of the tower sitting on the ground.

HAVE I GOT NEWS FOR YOU.

DEAL OF THE DAY.

TP-Link Archer T6E AC1300 PCIe Wireless WiFi Network Adapter Card PC Heatsink Technology https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0896K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZYRMBb6J8MCZF

Yeah I'd recommend this over the USB suggestions. Get a good one. Or try the power link setup.
This is what I use.

Currently using this one, haven't had any issues yet. TP-Link N300 Wireless PCI-Express Adapter (TL-WN881ND) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gpltybSZM86SE

You really don't want your router doing wireless, it is preferable to have a dedicated Access Point (AP) doing wireless. Unfortunately what people think of "routers" now are actually three devices in one, they are a router, switch (multiple lan ethernet ports), and access point (wireless). Personally I feel the combo devices do a bad job at all three of those which is why I prefer to have dedicated devices for each piece. If you plan on using an existing router and just want wireless I would suggest the unifi ac lite access point.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

If you need a router as well then I would use the access point and pfsense for your router. You could use a wired nic like this in an existing computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-1000-Dual-Server-Adapter/dp/B000BMZHX2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527380550&sr=1-3&keywords=intel+dual+gigabit

Pfsense does support wireless cards but trust me you don't want to go down that road for many reasons. Any time that topic comes up most users on this subreddit suggest against it myself included. I have tried building wireless into my pfsense build before and quickly abandoned it.

5 GHz isn't great at going through walls. If it's directly under you, you should be okay, but my phone switches to the 2.4 GHz network when I go into the bathroom in my apartment. I'd get dual-band just to be safe.

I'm not in Canada, but amazon.ca has this one. It's pretty highly-rated.

Don't get a USB one. PCI-Express cards are more reliable, have larger antennas that can be adjusted. USB devices can be subject to random disconnects, poor bandwidth negotiations with other USB device, poor heat dissipation, and shoddy drivers. You can certainly find a USB wifi dongle that works for you, but I wouldn't risk reliability on your network connection.

I have this tp link AC1300 card and its working great on my wife's desktop that recently got moved too far to run ethernet to.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016K0896K/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: yes thats the same one you are looking at, it works fine

These are my thoughts without seeing the actual model, so they do not have reference values. Beware.

TL;DR (or maybe not? it's still long.)

Pros:

It's XPS. The XPS. Dell has found their sweet spot and is unlikely to change, which is a good news for us.

So, all the pros for XPS 9560.

i5-8300H is actually capable to do many tremendous things so many people can think twice before paying for an i7.

Lower end configurations have surprisingly good value. Again, think twice for i7.

GTX 1050ti Max-Q is chicken dinner friendly. And is Montana's cheeseburger friendly. And is slightly better at graphics rendering. For many people struggling between gaming laptops and performance laptops, this will be make them pull the trigger.

Again, the inclusion of 1050ti MaxQ makes it dumb to buy Asus UX550VE. Or Macbook Pro 2017 so Dell has several months without a real competitor.

Cons:

All cons for 9560.

Discouragingly expensive for high end models. $3000 for i9? Well Lenovo workstations can do it better. Or a dual setup. On the flip side, the also good 9560 will be way cheaper.

Killer 1535. Seriously? I mean, Dell, did you signed a soul selling contract with them? They need to spend $100+ for every complaint against wireless cards, which is, like, 100% of all purchases. For your interest, buy this and install it immediately upon purchase.

Fingerprint magnet. I cannot definitively say this because they may change the materials, but XPS 9560 gets dirty in all directions and requires frequent cleaning. This is usually undermined by reviewers but it may bug you so I mention it here.

There is, like this network card for example https://www.amazon.com/XG-C100C-Network-Adapter-Single-RJ-45/dp/B072N84DG6
and https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-infinity/

Stuff is pretty expensive but the fact that there is now a market for it will help lower the prices etc

Just to make sure I understand, all I need to do is insert and mount the NIC into that slot on the adapter like an M.2 drive, and it's done?

Found the chip even cheaper on Amazon with one-day shipping btw. https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-Ac-9260-2230-Gigabit/dp/B079QH5KW1/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549136903&sr=8-2&keywords=Intel+Wireless-Ac+9260

Assuming the wifi module is the same type, there's no difference in performance between on-board wifi and an add-on card. They use the same types of module (they look like this) whether integrated onto the board or a PCI-E card.

One downside of an add-on card is you take up an extra slot and it can result in a less clean looking build, one advantage is you can take the card to your next PC.

Found this one on Amazon (oddly enough from the same company as the one I originally linked).

Some mother boards, like my Gigabyte GA-Z170-Ultra Gaming supports an addon card like https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0722SV69N/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1 which is an Alpine Ridge TB3 chipset which is what Apple uses. Asus also has an Alpine Ridge addon card. This was the easiest way for me to get TB3 into my hack.

A TB3 enclosure, Apple's TB2 to TB3 adapter, a video card of your choice (AMD cards from the RX series onward have native support) and a script to enable eGPU for a TB2 Mac and disable your NVidia dGPU, if you have one.

A Sonnet Breakway Box 350W (199$ on Amazon) and a RX580 8GB (239.99$ on Amazon) would be a good setup.

The Apple adapter is about 35$ on ebay.

You can see someone doing a similar setup with a Vega 64, but a RX580 would work the same setup-wise.

My suggestion: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6

Don't be fooled, this is merely an Intel 8260 wifi card I believe but branded Gigabyte https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/

If one of the PCIe slots is vacant you could get a PCIe card that would add both; this one seems to get good reviews and supports all of the technologies that you'd expect it to, but there might be something better.

I'd go with an internal expansion card over USB, both because it will reduce clutter slightly and because USB wireless cards, in my experience, tend to not be the best.

1. If you're talking about the wifi chip itself: you can buy an Intel module, they're much better and not expensive: (https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-Ac-9260-2230-Gigabit/dp/B079QJQF4Y/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=intel+9260&qid=1565244718&s=electronics&sr=1-4), and replacing it is quite easy, although you need to do it carefully: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4DUIlJYBRc
   
2. I have the same mobo and had the same problem. Ryzen 3000 has a very high thermal density (the amount of heat generated isn't higher than the previous gen/Intel chips, it's actually lower but it's generated in a smaller area, making it harder to cool) so it's simply gonna be hotter, even with the best cooler, even though it uses less power than Intel. That's simply the result of the 7nm process, you'll see the same when Intel has 10nm figured out. My solution (I have a Noctua NH-u12s): for the CPU I used the Noctua silent mode PWM cable, or whatever it's called, capping the CPU cooler to 80%. You should have one included with your A9x14 fan. For the case fans I got a Noctua fan controller. I was considering it any way as I like my case fans at a constant speed, and this motherboard doesn't seem to allow for that (except if you set them at 100%...). It's the samllest fan controller I know of, but you might have problems in your case. The controller connects to SATA for power, and optionally connects to another PWM header. Then you have the contoller itself, and it has one output PWM header, and the controller comes with a 3 way splitter. All this adds considerable bulk. I have a large SFF case (InWin A1 Plus) so it wasn't a problem, but your case is smaller, so look if you can fit the controller somewhere. based on the pictures I think it won't be a problem.
   
3. yes, your temps are normal, about the same as my 3700X (I'm at 40 idle, 75 gaming, 90 intel burn test, but I have a bigger case and cooler than you). If you want lower temps, you could lower the power target PPT. Someone at /r/amd or /r/sffpc (don't remember which sub) did some testing and found out you can scale power consumption down favorably (something like -30% power = -10% performance in cinebench). By default your CPU will be at 88W. You could try 75W and see what that does to your temps and performance.
   
4. dunno, I know nothing about the case/brand

I just replaced this card last night after it died on me after 2 months, I'm using this one now by tp-link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GMPZ0A

It's working very well so far. My wifi situation is challenging due to that the direct line of sight to the router has 4 walls, 2 of them being brick, but so far this is the best wifi adapter i've used.

http://i.imgur.com/UuoRtxW.png

I haven't seen it drop below 450mbps and my old linksys AC usb adapter never got that high, it would spike up to 300mbps or so every now and then but only for a second or two then drop back down. I ran a ping google.com -t for an hour and had 0% packet loss.

GUYS!!!!!! IT'S HERE!!

I HAVE WORKING INTERNET ON MY COMPUTER!!!

For anyone interested, I bought this.

Obligatory Intel has a better wifi bluetooth combo card that has better driver support. https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421396763&sr=8-1&keywords=GIGABYTE+Model+GC-WB867D-I+Bluetooth+4.0%2FWiFi+Expansion+Card

It's $45

Using this adapter with this craptastic router and I haven't noticed any issues with packet loss/latency that were caused by either of them over the 2 years i've used them.

This is with them being about 15-20 feet away from eachother and through a wall.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-8265-NGWMG-BlueTooth-Brown/dp/B01MZA1AB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506412155&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+8265
It's plug'n'play just pop the two antenna connectors and unscrew the single philips screw. Slides out and replace it with the one I linked. Solves literally every WiFi and Bluetooth problem.

Feel free to argue this, but this plugs into a desktop, right? I can see the purpose on a laptop, but there are plenty of ways to achieve HDMI and USB over the USB C/thunderbolt connector. What makes this special?

It would almost certainly work if it works for the oculus... just failing to see how this is anything new.

Just so you get what I mean, this is an item that could be used to achieve this if one wanted it. Sure, the add in card is $60, and the adapters would add a bit more cost, but this would allow you to run both HDMI (in this case via the displayport) and USB 3 over the physical C/Thunderbolt interface without requiring a brand new Nvidia GPU to do so.

Edit: Found some previous discussion on this. This makes me excited to cut the current cable setup down to USB C form factor cables, honestly.

10Gb has become easy to deploy, still not cheap, but not crazy. 10Gb core switch and 10Gb NIC(s) and call it a day. Yes, if you’re running new cable it should be cat 6a, but cat 5e is perfectly capable of 10Gb up to 45 meters.

Core switch example
TRENDnet 8-Port 10G EdgeSmart Switch, 8 x 10GBASE-T Ports, Lifetime Protection, TEG-7080ES https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BV2VYVF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GQRrDbDQSDJ1G

NIC example
ASUS XG-C100C 10G Network Adapter Pci-E X4 Card with Single RJ-45 Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072N84DG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9YRrDb9YRP2GD

Replace it. It's buggy and slow. Seriously, it was the best $14 I ever spent on a computer part. It's even cheaper now:

Intel Wireless-Ac 9260, 2230, 2X2 Ac+Bt, Gigabit, No Vpro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QH5KW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mnC4Db2TQE5PV

Just get a USB wifi adapter. Something like this or if you want one thats smaller and less in the way you can get this one. The smaller one probably has less range and lower max speed.

Or if you have extra expansion slots and need faster wifi you can get a PCIe wifi card like this.

NOTE: I haven't done much research on this so the listed products are just examples of the types of solutions available. By no means am I recommending these as the best in their respective classes. I just own TP-link stuff and trust them is all.

I use one of these adapters for M.2 wifi chips on my PC. Provides a pretty nice upgrade path as long as Intel keeps supporting the standard. Their wireless chips are actually pretty cheap in comparison to buying a USB adapter.

TBH I'm not sure if the Taichi uses the Intel 7265, or 8265. The 8265 is the upgraded model that supports MU-MIMO. It's like $7 more.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-8265-NGWMG-BlueTooth-Brown/dp/B01MZA1AB2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511460432&sr=1-1&keywords=intel+wireless+ac+8265

I am in the process of upgrading some of my network to 10 Gb. Here is what I have found out so far.

1. There are many deals on Ebay. Just because something is listed on Ebay doesn't mean it's not available cheaper somewhere else. Don't assume, practice due diligence.
   
2. You're going to need a 8X pcie slot for each network card in many cases, I don't think I have seen less than 4.
   
3. Watch for SFP vs SFP+ The SFP is only 1 Gb. It's the + that's 10.
   
4. On each end of the cable you need a transponder. It's an interface between the SFP+ and the cable.
   
5. You can get optical (fibre) or Copper (10GbaseT). The Copper ones seem very expensive.
   
6. There are many different transponders and cables. Here is a wiki on the cable types https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_form-factor_pluggable_transceiver
   
7. Asus makes a 10 Gb card that uses Cat6 cable. https://www.amazon.com/XG-C100C-Network-Adapter-Single-RJ-45/dp/B072N84DG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542208120&sr=8-3&keywords=10gb+ethernet+cardThey have the transponder "included" so all you need is the Cat6 cable. They are about 150 bucks Canadian. This is ideal for just wiring 2 computers together. I'm a bit concerned about how the routing will go on windows machines but I'm sure I can figure it out.
   
8. I have been looking for routers. There is a trendnet switch https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-28-Port-Lifetime-Protection-TEG-30284/dp/B01EOPSRP6/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1542207851&sr=8-18&keywords=10gb+router which has 4 SFP+ ports and 24 regular ports. I ended up buying a force10 router off ebay (for about 150 USD) but man is there a learning curve. I wish now I had bought this one instead but there you go it's an opportunity to learn. This router would not really be compatible with the Asus cards mentioned above without buying some 10GBaseT transponders. The cheapest I could find for those was on ebay for $150.00.
   
9. I'm waiting for parts to come in, I haven't got anything working yet. Today is screw with the new router day.

Well, you don't really need to get Cat6 cables especially considering that cheap 10Gb solutions (like Mellanox NICs) use fiber cables so Cat6 would be useless anyway.

That being said prices of 5Gbase-T and 10GBase-T are steadily dropping - brand new 10Gb NIC is nowadays $116. So it's not a bad idea to futureproof your house a bit (although, as said - fiber is cheaper, consumes less power and gives you more freedom of choice).

Here is a PCIe card using Intel's AC 7260 card. It includes Bluetooth 4.0 as well so that's a plus. I have the AC 7260 running in my laptop and it's been flawless throughout the past year of continuous use. Right now it's rather expensive on Amazon. It was around $30 a month ago

Amazon

Newegg

Price Checker

I use this and haven't had any issues. It comes with Bluetooth too.

i have two of these and they're amazing:

http://amzn.com/B00HF8K0O6

(Gigabyte Bluetooth 4.0/802.11ac WiFi PCIe x1 Card GC-WB867D-I)

Please note this intel 3160 you linked does Not go into PCI-E on your standard Desktop motherboard. It actually goes into the Mini PCI-E often found on laptop motherboards.


Please don't buy this for a desktop build and expect it to fit!


For a good wireless card that fits in your standard PCI-E slot, checkout the TP-Link ones, they also come in PCI options as well. I purchased the wdn4800, on newegg when it was 25 or so dollars, and have been happy with it. As a note, I have multiple walls in between my Build and the wireless router and have never gone below 3 out of 5 bars (according to win 7) but am most often at 4.

So.. my wireless card in my tower is dual band and I get 300 MB/s.
My wireless router is what gets it to 300 but I know that the card can go higher, should I upgrade my router?
I'd like to know more about wifi and wired connections if you have any links.

That motherboard doesn't have a wifi adapter. You'll need to get a separate one like this one or a cheap USB one

Don't forget the OEM versions of the Intel Pro 1000:
(<$40)
https://www.amazon.com/HP-NC364T-Gigabit-Server-Adptr/dp/B000P0NX3G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=quad+port+nic&qid=1557054316&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-Brackets-E1G44ET-DELL-HM9JY/dp/B018FEBH40/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=quad+port+nic&qid=1557054316&s=gateway&sr=8-29

You can definitely find them cheaper at times even on Amazon. One caveat, as always with older gear, is power consumption. IIRC these use somewhere in the mid teens as far as wattage goes. Modern cards are single digits.

E: the HP one may not be a pro 1000...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XWMEI/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1WQVJ2NJ1RJ6ZC7ZZFNP&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846

If your devices are truly pushing that much data and you really need 2GB to your computer, you'll need both a switch and a network card that support LACP (Link aggregation).

Most relatively inexpensive prosumer switches support this now, look at something like this for a switch and this for a NIC.

There are, of course, tons of other choices for switches and NICs - just make sure they support what you need.

PFsense has issues with PPPoE and gigabit if you're using an Intel NIC that uses the IGB driver. An alternative is finding a card that uses the EM driver. Not sure if ESXi eliminates that issue but definitely make sure you're not using the E1000 NIC.

https://redmine.pfsense.org/issues/4821

Source: Just got my CenturyLink Gigabit PFsense setup running last week. Also using that same guide.

HP NC364T - Amazon

I have had good success with this in CentOS, VMWare ESXi, and pfSesne.

This is the same chipset as the Intel PRO/1000 PT Quad Port, but is usually much cheaper.

Use AMTECH on amazon if you need both tall and short profile brackets.

The build looks solid, just a few things

• The same monitor is $20 cheaper at newegg. https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160167
  
• Get a 500watt 80+ Bronze PSU from EVGA, seasonic, or corsair. Modular is up to you.
  
• For case, I can suggest two that are ~$90. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B011A2LWZI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yaORAbYJZ1R7Y https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NGMIBUU/?tag=pcp0f-20
  
• Keyboard, never heard of the brand, apparently cherry mx blue equivalent, sounds sketchy.
  
• You probably should get a HD unless you already have one, 250GB ssd is only enough for few games.
  
  Edit. I found a $25 network card because I don't know you're willing to spend on one. https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1521507801&sr=8-7&keywords=network+card
  
  Edit 2. There is a 15%OFF Everything On Ebay. https://pages.ebay.com/promo/2018/0320/7019.html
  So I found this equivalent which should be $194 after the coupon without tax or you can get other ram. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Team-T-Force-Vulcan-16GB-2-x-8GB-288-Pin-DDR4-SDRAM-DDR4-3000-PC4-24000-Desk/201694919705?hash=item2ef5f43c19:g:GnsAAOSwa8dZ0P4~

this thing. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XWMEI/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1WQVJ2NJ1RJ6ZC7ZZFNP&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846

This should work.

If you want to be safe, here is a list of networking stuff that's compatible with Debian. Though I wouldn't worry too much about compatibility issues with wireless cards in steamos. I got this one and it works great even though I don't think it's on the list.

0% chance

BUT - you can use it once you've modified it with Clover and added all your clover config files.

BUT - I would not recommend you take your working real mac and gut it, until you're done and happy with your new install.

So - Pick up a cheap hard drive, and get your build and install working, then you'll have the real mac to build the OS installer (and to help when things go south).

Then you can add in your mac mini SSD later, install clover, copy your known working config files and extensions - and when you're satisfied its all good, wipe the other hard drive and use it for data storage - or keep it for a backup

One last thing I noticed - many people want WiFi on these small builds - if you don't want to run an ethernet cable around to it, consider a wifi / bluetooth solution with a broadcom chip - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLG51U/ (despite their image - it's been verified here that it works 100% on 10.12.4 - there's a recent thread about it if you search for Fenvi)

This is certainly NOT normal. You most likely have a faulty Bluetooth adapter that is overheating over time. Replace with a quality BT adapter such as the Intel 9260NGW (you can use this to convert to pcie if no m.2 slot)

Note that the following instructions only apply if your laptop's wireless card is an M.2.

0. Make sure you download drivers from Intel's site before replacing your card in case you lose WiFi access upon installing the new one.

1. Buy Intel 8265 here or 8260 here if you don't care about MU-MIMO support and want to save ~$5.
   
   
2. Open up the bottom panel of your laptop. Make sure your laptop is fully shut off before doing this. Find out how to do this by just Googling it. Generally not too hard to do, just be careful not to misplace screws and/or break your laptop or any of the clips that hold the panel in.
   
   
3. Locate your wireless card (it should look very similar to the new one you bought, obviously) and disconnect it from the M.2 slot as well as the antennae.
   
   
4. Attach the antennae to your new card before slotting it in, making sure to match black with black and white with white.
   
   
5. Slot the new card into the M.2 slot.
   
   
6. Put the back panel back on, reboot computer, install drivers.
   
   
7. ???
   
   
8. Profit!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QH5KW1/

Keep in mind, Wifi/Bluetooth requires a special M.2 keying that most motherboards don't support on most ports. They'll likely only have to correct m.2 port if it was a mobo that came with wifi capabilites already.

Definitely a thing, has been on this sub several times now. Save yourself the heartache and replace your Killer card with an $23 Intel 9260- https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QJQF4Y

I got Dell to send me one to replace my Killer, but I'm sure it was only because I have Pro Support, and being IT I did a ton of troubleshooting. If you have the perseverance, then insist that your case be escalated, point them to these threads, and ask for the 9260. If you don't care, then spend the $23 and do it yourself.

Reference threads-

https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/czhayd/xps_15_7590_wifi_issues_card_replacement/

https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/d48wm2/my_advice_replace_the_killer_wlan_on_all_new_xps/

I'm still trying to find the other thread where the OP also specifically mentions his Killer card was taking down some or all of his WiFi devices as well...

TP-Link Wireless PCI-e adapter

This is usually the recommended adapter around here.

P.S. While some (i.e. none) components may try to murder your PC in its sleep, you personally should be safe.

This is the exact one I use. It does its job. There are also powerline adapters that are supposedly pretty great. I don't have a set up that would work with them, but I've seen them recommended plenty of times.

Since no one is giving you an actual product I would highly recommend this. You can get them in different sizes depending on your wireless speed. I have one in my rig and haven't had any problems so far regarding internet.

You mean like a PCIe adapter? I recently purchased this via Amazon as I was converting my older PC as a HTPC, and needed wifi+BT. I was considering this one as well. Mind you for wifi only, you could probably get something cheaper.

Finally, if you haven't completed your build yet, consider a motherboard with built-in wifi. Depending on the models, you could save some money; it also liberates a PCIe slot.

You could also get USB dongles, but those usually don't perform as well (or so I heard).

This card is frequently recommended

Hey man I got this one and its cheap on amazon! You may wanna take a look at it and it comes with bluetooth.

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466694098&sr=8-2&keywords=gigabyte+wifi+card

That seems like a decent card honestly, try updating your drivers and router firmware before you buy a new one. Note that your neighbors setting up their own routers can impact your signal quality, so consider changing what channel your router uses. Microwave ovens and blenders also destroy 2.4 GHz communications while they're on, so keep that in mind.

Here's the one I use. It's served me well over the past year or so, except when my ISP set me up with a bizarre router firmware that only worked with certain, seemingly randomly-selected cards.

With the modeling and simulations, have you looked at 16GB of ram? I think it would still fit within your budget with that addition unless you already know the capabilities of your work programs.

Also, I highly recommend the TP-Link TL-WDN4800 over any other pci-e wi-fi card. I have two, in my w8.1 desktop and linux htpc, that do a fantastic job. The extra cost was definitely worth it in that category for good reception (three antennas) and great speed.

Something like this would be good. You want one that can do both 2.4 and 5GHz so you can choose which one gets you the best reception. Assuming your router has those options too. PCIe will be more reliable than a USB wifi stick. You may also have a lot of nearby people on the 2.4Ghz frequency. Try downloading a wifi analyzer for your phone to see how many wifi networks are in your area.

TP-Link Wireless Dual Band PCI Express Adapter (TL-WDN4800) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aykmzbF08BGG1

I use this one. Works perfectly. Never had a signal drop

The CPU cooler on the Ryzen 1400 is actually pretty good. It would be more beneficial to get a 120/240 ssd instead. The 1060 6GB is still pretty over priced right now because of mining so it might be worth waiting. And [something] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A) like this would be good for your wifi card.

Only a few things to look for when you're looking for a wireless card:

1. PCIe/USB interface
   
   
2. Speed and Dual Band support
   
   
3. External antenna
   
   I have a TP-Link TL-WDN4800. Worked straight out of the box and haven't had an issues with connecting or speed throttles. No need to deal with any external antenna wires either.
   
   edit: formatting

I'm using this. Not a lot of money at all.

I'm paying for 100down/10up and it seems to work pretty well: http://www.speedtest.net/my-result/5407325723

Everything looks compatible. One suggestion is to get this wifi card instead. It's the exact same chipset as the TP-Link TL-WDN4800 for a slightly lower price. I have it right now and it worked OOB.

Rosewill Wireless N Dual Band Adapter IEEE 802.11a/b/g/n PCI Express Up to 450Mbps Data

http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Wireless-Adapter-802-11a-RNWD-N9003PCe/dp/B009VKON0S

I bought this for my temp apartment that has a Comcast Wireless N router (I'm too far away from it to lay down a wired connection,) and I'm very happy with the throughput. Streaming Hulu or Netflix isn't a problem.

I haven’t played FO4 with a PS4 controller on PC, but I use THIS for my DualShock 4 for all my PC games and it works amazing. I also use DS4Windows as the software.

I think I bought my card for $25 on eBay so I know you an find it cheaper than what’s in the link :)

easier and cheaper just to get a USB one.

But..., here's one from gigabyte: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6

> Is now the right time to buy a PC or should I wait because new cards are coming out and they will lead to price drops? But how long until those price drops will even come into effect?

I would wait slightly, prices of the older cards will not fall (in the used market they will. But new cards, not so much.) so just wait for the price gouging of the new cards to stop and pick up one of those.

> Also, when building a PC what parts do I need to connect to Internet/Wi-Fi? A wireless network adapter? Or do motherboards come equipped with being able to connect to WiFi? And what do you look for when choosing a wireless network adapter if you need them?

Some motherboards do come with Wi-FI adapters built in, but these are typically in a price range that it's not worth it to most of us. If wifi if your only choice your best bet is to get a PCI express Wifi adapter. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466008737&sr=8-1&keywords=pci+express+ac+wifi
When you're shopping just make sure the adapter supports the best wifi standard your home router/AP does (AC, N, etc)

> Finally, when looking at Graphics cards, e.g. the GeForce GTX 1070, I saw they were sold by various manufacturers like EVGA, Zotac, MSI etc. Does it matter which manufacturer you buy from (apart from price differences)? Does it affect performance or anything of the card or can I just relax and buy from any company?

There are differences in each of the cards from the companies. You will want to read reviews for the cards you may be interested in. One card may run quieter than the others, one may have higher clocks and therefor perform better.

Check this out.

You didn't specify what type of case you have, but I'm guessing it is some type of tower. Like Xeppo said, the 1U PowerEdge C1100 is going to be loud. The smaller the fans, the more noise they make. You may want to consider other Generation 11 PowerEdge servers with similar specs and larger cases.

One advantage you get with a used rackmount server is exposure to DRAC/IPMI/iLO OOB management. (This is an optional feature, so check the description.) Your typical consumer motherboard won't support anything like that. A second advantage is that most PowerEdges will have a PERC for you to play around with.

With a rackmount server, you also need to consider where you are going to put it. If you lay it down, it is going to take up a lot of surface area. If you stand it up, you need secure mounting brackets, or something comparable. If you put it in a rack, you need a rack which takes up a good chunk of space. You can stick a tower almost anywhere.

Read some reviews that compare 2 SSDs in RAID vs a single SSD. The performance can be hit or miss. On a budget, you would probably be better off spending (or saving) that money elsewhere. I don't have enough SSD experience to comfortably recommend any particular brand.

If you do decide to go the white box route, the Intel PRO 1000/PT Dual Port NIC is $44 shipped. Intel network adapters are worth the minimal added cost. TrendNet is not one of my first choices for... well, anything.

Welcome to shitty home routers.

Solution, Build a network from good hardware.
Build a pf sense box and get a ubiquity AP. Yes its enterprise gear. But that price means you get enterprise class reliability.

Pf sense is free. Just chuck it on an old pc and buy a dual port gigabit Ethernet card. (Intel based preferably. Here is a link to a good one. Amazon

Anything intel should be fine - have a couple of these working fine AFAIK https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-EXPI9402PT-1000Pt-Dual-Server-x/dp/B000BMZHX2

Or don't waste your money and get this one
Edit: make sure you request the low profile bracket if your case is low pro

I've had it running in a Jail in Freenas for a little over a year now without any real issues. I don't have to reboot it after awhile either. I've had the boot usb drive die (mini-samsung didn't like the constant heat I think) and the network card die (realtek is realshit).

Hardware List:

• Freenas box
  
• InWin IW-MS04 ITX Case
  
• AsRock J3710
  
• 8GB Crucial Ram x 1
  
• HGST Ultrastar 7k4000 3TB x 2
  
• Aeotec z-wave adapter
  
• Intel PRO/1000 Pt Network adapter
  
• !! Note, x4 PCI slot where motherboard only has x1. I modified motherboard to fit card, don't really recommend. Still better than Realtek.
  
• 16GB USB drive x2

Yep, C7. Sorry about that. My current plan is to convert my PC into a whitebox running pfSense with this quad nic, and just use the C7 as an access point. I've been looking for an excuse to buy a new rig anyway. Do you think this is a good solution?

It really depends on your budget and use case. Do you want this box to function as a NAS too? How many VMs/Containers do you anticipate (take your number and double it to future proof your setup)

I currently have a virtualized pfsense instance in my proxmox box, I think the easiest way to handle the support is to get a separate NIC and do PCI Passthrough to your VM, I used an HP NC364T as it was cheap and supported. This allows you to not have to deal with configuring the oddities of forwarding network interfaces and virtual network ports and lets pfsense's setup go significantly smoother.

If you plan on having multiple HDDs, I'm a huge fan of the Fractal Design Node 804 Case

I mean people already have some janky ways to utilize GPUs externally for like a laptop or something, see the GDC adapter. So instead of a GPU you can always just put in a network card into one of those is what I'm thinking. Probably this combo:

Adapter

Card

​

Unless the network card is going to be as demanding as a GPU

HP genuine Intel 1000 PT quad nic

60 dollars

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0NX3G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459465600&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hp+quad+intel+nic&dpPl=1&dpID=41v1JtpqcqL&ref=plSrch

It's a pcie 2.0 x4 card so stick it into the x16 slot - it won't fit in the x1 slot.

Intel-EXPPI9301CT

Cheaper, and has Free Shipping...

I am glad you think so cause I am getting some down votes here, assuming from people who think this is too much to read :)

For testing purposes, to run Xenserver 6.5 I purchased this card below. It works no problem, but I am sending it back since I am not going to be using 6.5 and my on board Ethernet adapter (I219V) works just fine in version 7.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CY0P7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran into this with a mini-itx whitebox build, but a $30 network card solves it just fine.

I was thinking on a PCIe network adapter, not wireless, to connect your desktop to your router with an ethernet cable, for example this (also check your desktop's motherboard to see if you have a PCI or PCIe slot).

I've never heard of edimax but i know from experience tp link makes great wifi adapters for the money. Also trash the usb adapter and get a real card with antennaes.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511749543&sr=8-4&keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter

or if you can't afford that i have this one and its great.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1511749543&sr=8-7&keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter

generally speaking... usb wifi dongle suck. (range)

If you can afford it, get a pci card instead.

TP-Link TL-WN881ND 802.11b/g/n $21CAD

if you want to future proof....

D-Link DWA-582 802.11a/b/g/n/ac $40CAD

I use hostapd with a TPLink PCI-Express card on one of servers (Debian) for my office wireless network. This is, of course, with routing enabled. Performance has been stellar. The machine in question has a Sandy-Bridge Xeon, and does a bunch of other things as well including being a KVM host.

lspci:

01:00.0 Network controller: Atheros Communications Inc. AR9287 Wireless Network Adapter (PCI-Express) (rev 01)

cat /etc/hostapd/hostapd.conf:

interface=wlan0
driver=nl80211
ssid=(redacted)
channel=1
hw_mode=g
wme_enabled=1
ieee80211n=1
ht_capab=[HT40+][SHORT-GI-40][DSSS_CCK-40]
macaddr_acl=0
auth_algs=1
ignore_broadcast_ssid=0
wpa=2
wpa_passphrase=(redacted)
wpa_key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
rsn_pairwise=CCMP

There's also this delightful script that sits in /etc/init.d/hostapd and which enables hostapd to run flawlessly as a system service. I find it extremely valuable to be able to be able to configure and manage my wireless AP in exactly the same way that I would any other Linux-based service.

If it is a desktop I am going to suggest an internal card if you have open slots. I have found that USB adapters are unreliable. And again this is just my experience, I have had two of them overheat on me with heavy use. EX. Downloading something while streaming YouTube has caused mine to overheat and be unrecognizable by the system.

I would suggest something like this.

Oh and make sure you have either a PCIe or a PCI slot and the corresponding card for it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079XWMEI/

You can get any motherboard without WiFi and put a pci-e wireless card into it. Something like this one http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452122647&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+card

Something like this - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI

is probably better and more reliable/stable for long term use and for gaming, than a USB solution. Just double check you have a free pcie expansion slot.

I use the (TP-LINK TL-WN881ND)[www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XWMEI] and the (Edimax EW-7811Un)[www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY]. I never had any problem with them

If you want to upgrade something, your CPU is the biggest upgrade. But that would require a new motherboard and ram as well. So if you're happy with your current performance and don't get framerates drops just keep your current build.

>I don't have wireless and that is one thing I know I want to add. I suppose my question is: are any of the specs noticeably outdated and need to be upgraded?

You should be able to add a wireless card to your PC no problem, you just need an open PCIe slot.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0079XWMEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4/140-0179609-2447108?ie=UTF8&qid=1521508356&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pcie+wireless+card&dpPl=1&dpID=415vrQMpdJL&ref=plSrch

If you can plug in using a wire, I recommend doing so, as it is faster and more stable. You can pick your color/length for solid price here.

If you're in a situation where you can't plug into your router/modem, then wifi is your next choice. Something like this will work just fine, but if you're comfortable attaching a card to your motherboard, this will provide a stronger and more reliable experience.

You need a PCIe card w/ Antenna. https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541388221&sr=8-1&keywords=gigabyte+wifi+card&refinements=p_n_condition-type%3A6461716011

https://www.amazon.ca/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6

Get this, it's pcie wireless ac with Bluetooth, it's a bargain at $33.

I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6

Works well for me. It used to be cheaper though. I bought it for $36.50 just over a year ago.

> but my issue is the fact that with 5ghz wifi it has a cap of 300mbps

That's because it isn't 802.11ac compatible. It clearly says it only supports up to 802.11n, it's even in the name of the card. If you have an AC router, you should get an AC adapter like this one which is only $9 more.

I have this Gigabyte and it does the job. If you're more on a budget make sure you are still getting a card that supports ac wifi. There's also some Asus and TPLINK cards under $50 that look similar.

I'm a big fan of this wifi adapter. You get bluetooth and wifi built into one. I've seen it around $25 sometimes.

The R7000 is capable of 900Mbps+ WAN<>LAN.

• Make sure you're on the latest firmware.
  
• Make sure that CTF / NAT Acceleration is enabled on the R7000.
  
  
• Try a different network cable between the CL modem and R7000.
  
  
  If you want to go wireless, you need a PCI-E AC class adapter for your PC:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T9E-Beamforming-Low-profile/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/
  
  

most usb dongles suck.

The mini ones really suck.

I have had good luck with linksys and Asus AC devices

WUSB6300 worked well.

You are better off getting an internal card.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T6E-Wireless-Low-profile/dp/B016K0896K/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1472995505&sr=8-5&keywords=wifi+card+ac

tl;dr: All of those are shit , get a good one.

If you have the PCIE slot to spare, I highly recommend using that instead. You can get much better performance in both power and speed over the USB option. That being said, here are four recommendations based on your needs:

1. USB, budget - BrosTrend, $26
   
2. USB, performance - ASUS USB-AC68, $76
   
3. PCIE, budget - TP-Link Archer T4E, $35
   
4. PCIE, performance - ASUS PCE-AC68, $87
   
   Personally, I have the PCE-AC68 that I bought for $75 3 years ago and it's still rocking.

I bought this one a few weeks ago https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B016K0896K/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_dp_i1
its been working well, easily keeps up with my 150/150 fiber internet through a wall

TP-Link AC1300 Wireless Dual Band PCI-Express Adapter (Archer T6E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0896K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jMT9yb4M2R33H

Excuse the formatting, I'm on mobile atm, I've had this one for a while now and it's delivered great speeds and most importantly it's reliable.

No but you could get a PcIE wifi card with while keeping it in your budget.

Cool beans! It's this model by the way!

Let me know if you change your mind

This one goes on sale occasionally for less than $50. Add it to camelcamelcamel.

https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Desktop-Wireless-802-11n-Hackintosh/dp/B01MDLG51U?th=1

It's the T919A

I went with

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-Ac-9260-2230-Gigabit/dp/B079QH5KW1

https://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Wireless-Network-Converter-Including/dp/B01MFGYAX6

I don't have the same Mobo, but I think it should work. Granted I haven't received it yet.

You can buy a PCI-E card with a m.2 slot and hookups for wifi, then buy the Intel m.2 wifi card, and put them together. Here's an amazon listing (no referral links) similar to what I used: https://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Wireless-Network-Converter-Including/dp/B01MFGYAX6

I ordered the m.2 intel ax200 wifi 6 adapter (killer and intel are the only wifi 6 adapters so far i think)

But then you also need an adapter from m.2 to pcie probably as most mobos only support m.2 m-key and this an A/E-key m.2 card.

Card it self costed me €15 i think (ordered few weeks ago)

Then i came to the conclusion i needed new wifi cables and an adapter, so ordered an adapter with antennas. (14$ or so, and 8 dollar shipping from US to europe, amazon) that will be delivered within an hour. But i had an $20 giftcard because of an price error so only costed 2$

Why i did this? The adapter has wifi 6 and goes up to 2 Gb/s or so, okay our wifi modem/router sucks, so wired is only 25mb/s and this would probably be the same.

But it also had Bluetooth 5.0 and most dongles don't have that.

Adapter i ordered

If you have an AX router, this card is $41 with coupon. If not, this one is ~$33 with coupon. If you don't mind attaching the very small antennas clips yourself (which can be difficult), the 9260 M.2 is $13.30 and the PCIE card is $14 for a total of $27.30. I have built 3 of those cards and if I needed to do it again, I would spend $33 to avoid the hassle, or even$38 for this one because it looks cool.

You will have to give up a USB2 port on your motherboard to use the bluetooth with any of the above options.

I prefer Intel for both wired and wireless networking because they're supported by everyone.

This will work just fine -

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Dual-Band-Wireless-Ac-8265/dp/B01MZA1AB2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4

Yes, it does have a slot for a WiFi card and holes in the IO shield for antennas. However, unlike the ASRock boards you'll need to buy the card and antennas. The ASRock boards also have another M.2 slot for a second SSD, but it's not as fast as the primary one.

I originally wanted the ASRock X370 Taichi (includes wifi, faster BIOS releases, and is cheaper), but after two months of waiting for it to be back in stock anywhere, I gave up and went with the Crosshair VI Hero. It's still not in stock.

Update: The Taichi is back in stock at NewEgg! (dammit!)

It's possible to upgrade the Wifi card in the 7567, with the most common upgrade being an Intel 8260 or 8265. You can find them for roughly $25-$30 online.

Amazon Link to 8260: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502720437&sr=8-2&keywords=intel+8265

Amazon Link to 8265: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-8265-NGWMG-BlueTooth-Brown/dp/B01MZA1AB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502720437&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+8265

Something kind of cool, you can get a thunderbolt 3 PCIe card, and use your interface with what you have now, or any commodity board you buy in the future. https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-Alpine-Thunderbolt-Components-GC-Alpine/dp/B0722SV69N/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thunderbolt+3+card&qid=1569991204&s=electronics&sr=1-3

As long as you're booting off of some kind of SSD now, I'd say go ahead with the GPU upgrade - the 5700XT is a good 2x bump from a 1060. (if not, budget $50 USD for a 500GB basic SSD of some reputable brand to tide you over - the difference is tremendous compared to a hard drive). The 4760k might hold the 5700XT back a BIT compared to newer CPUs in newer games which can utilize more than 4 threads, but you will still certainly notice a huge difference.

Do you use HDMI or display port or something else?

If HDMI, then this cable from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-USB-C-Supporting-Black/dp/B073H9RG9T ($16.99)
This external graphics card enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Breakaway-Thunderbolt-Expansion-GPU-350W-TB3Z/dp/B072L9QTZT/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=External+Graphics+card+enclosure&qid=1557706012&s=electronics&sr=1-4 ($199.00)
This graphics card (csgo doesn't need good graphics just that you don't use intel hd graphics): https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-GeForce-DisplayPort-128-bit-ZT-P10510A-10L/dp/B01M4MIU94/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=External%2Bgraphics%2Bcard&qid=1557705855&s=gateway&sr=8-21&th=1 ($139.99)

Total cost: $355.98 + shipping

Since you own a Mac you are rich and therefore this isn't a problem.

For anything over 1Gb/s, you'd need a 10Gb/s capable device (afaik, there's no in-between). There are two main ways you could do this, either get a 10 Gigabit network card like this ASUS one , or a motherboard with a LAN chip capable of 10Gb/s throughput (something you'll generally only find in workstation /server grade boards (like Asus' WS line-up), and in some cases realy high-end consumer board.

However, I feel that the investment of either a 10Gb network cards or a 10Gb equipped board is just not worth it for such a small improvement.

> A typical home setup will be plenty fast with 300MBs usb limitation (you'd ultimately be limited to gigabit speed anyway, which tops at 110MB/s).

Or you can top out at 1,000MB/s with 10Gbit SFP+.

> 10Gbit shouldn't even be in the cards if we're talking home NAS setup. Not many people have that at their homes and if they do, they won't be building their NAS around a rpi4.

I disagree. 10Gbit SFP+ is surprisingly cheap these days, roughly $50 per PCIe card, $20 for some short DAC-connectors. No, you wouldn't run them across your house, but it'd be sufficient to wire up all the computers in your office (NAS + Desktop + Server) with them.

But if SFP+ / Fiber isn't your cup of tea, note that 10Gbps Ethernet cables exist. I just ran the math and it seems like SFP+ Fiber is cheaper. 10Gbps ethernet switches are much more expensive, and 10Gbps ethernet is $100 / card instead of ~$50/card (SFP+).

2Gbps and 5Gbps Copper Ethernet is around the corner too. That's where PCIe would come in handy, because you'll have an upgrade path.

SFP+ has the modules cost if you need a longer-distance fiber, but DAC connectors are cheap (albeit limited to short distances).

I installed intel 9260 - works great. Intel Wireless-Ac 9260, 2230, 2X2 Ac+Bt, Gigabit, No Vpro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QH5KW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_..dyDbA9R7A69

You may have more luck with this: https://github.com/tomaspinho/rtl8821ce

I've used it under Ubuntu, and online people have reported it works under Fedora as well, despite not being supported.

If it's at all possible, I would honestly reccomend just replacing the wireless card with one by a vendor that actually supports Linux properly. Intel is personally my preferred brand due to good experiences, you can get a replacement card for $14 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-Ac-9260-2230-Gigabit/dp/B079QH5KW1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=intel+9260&qid=1550993117

I also use Ubuntu 18.04. Replace the wifi card with the following as I had bad experience with a similar killer wifi card.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QH5KW1/

Intel Wireless-Ac 9260 works perfectly in ubuntu.

Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 9260 9260NGW 9260AC NGFF M.2 2230 Wifi Card 1730Mbps 2.4/5GHz Bluetooth 5.0

Motherboards with built-in wireless networking aren't very common unless you're buying a MiniITX board or a top-of-the-line ATX board. You need to buy a separate wireless network adapter like this one and plug it into one of your motherboard's PCIe x1 slots.

If you really, really, REALLY need to go wifi then you have to at least be able to limit the bandwidth of everyone else. Its really important that you do this, otherwise you're probably gonna run into problems when other people use the connection. I'd suggest having different ssid's. One for everyone else in which they have access to a minimum, limited bandwidth and one for you, with unlimited bandwidth and no restrictions.

I know your concern its about the adapter. I'd personally would use a better one, something like this might be more reliable:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T6E-Wireless-Technology/dp/B016K0896K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549912557&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tp+link+wifi+pci&dpPl=1&dpID=41RfjuRyrIL&ref=plSrch

Just my two cents, I understand your position so if you need any help hit me up

Cheers

To start off with, we need to know what kind of motherboard is in your PC to make sure it has a free PCIe slot. Can you provide us a model? I would recommend this WiFi card ; TP-Link AC1300, as long as you have a free slot.

If you are on Windows 10, it will have a generic driver it will use that will get you online. Then go to the manufacturers website to grab the most up to date driver.

​

Honestly, I would try and run a cable that 30-40 feet if you can make it look tidy.

Well, then the Archer T9E is a good option. It's AC1900 with 3 beamforming antennas. Should be good for pretty much anything, but might be overkill. I've no clue what Rogers is giving customers these days, it just says "AC", but that could be anywhere from 750 to 5400. Most likely it's 1200 or 1350 though (I'd assume they'd include the same router with each package for simplicity's sake, and the gigabit package has to have a router of at least 1000, but has no benefit from anything over that). You could go for the Archer T6E if you wanted to save a bit of money, since it's AC1300 so it'll still be plenty fast, but as it's a two antenna card, the signal strength wouldn't be as good, though you've said that's not really a concern.

Have you considered a power line Ethernet adapter?

If that is still out of the question, these are some usb wifi adapers and if you want an internal adapter, I'd go with this.

Use a pci wifi card. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0896K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I6BPBbJ5VBN1A
It will get you a better connection than using a usb adapter. It just slots into a pci slot on your motherboard, usually in one of the slots below your graphics card.

I was more asking how far the signal has to travel. The big bonus that more expensive cards give you is more range, but if he's only going to be a room away then the range matters a bit less.

If price legitimately doesn't matter and his PC is pretty far away from the router or there are thick walls between the PC and router, this thing gets great reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

Never personally used that one, but a lot of people seem to like it. The drivers are a bit wonky though. If that's overkill, I own the card linked below and have never had any issues with it, and for the price I honestly don't know if you can beat it performance-wise. I would recommend it to anyone unless they need some serious range:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-Heatsink-Technology-T6E/dp/B016K0896K

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Archer-T9E-Wireless-Beamforming/dp/B016K0896K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481431447&sr=8-3&keywords=Wireless%2Bpci&th=1

I picked this up for one of my PCs a few weeks ago and its working awesome.

Check this one out, I have heard that it is good. Might want to look at PowerLine.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $264.99 @ Amazon Canada
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $89.50 @ Vuugo
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $174.99 @ Newegg Canada
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $209.99 @ Newegg Canada
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card | $659.99 @ Amazon Canada
Case | Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 ATX Mid Tower Case | $84.99 @ Newegg Canada
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $139.99 @ Newegg Canada
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $116.50 @ Vuugo
Monitor | BenQ - XL2730Z 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor | $529.99 @ Memory Express
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2295.93
| Mail-in rebates | -$25.00
| Total | $2270.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-21 13:34 EDT-0400 |

Notes:

• Moved down to the Ryzen 1600. It's the same chip as the 1600x, with the upside of coming with a stock cooler, and the downside of marginally worse overclocking ability. $300 for the 1600x is a good price though, so if you'd like the extra 100-200MHz in overclocking ability, pair the 1600x with a CRYORG H7. I think the money is better used elsewhere, though.
  
• The board you selected has on-board wifi, it's cheaper to purchase the board + wifi card separately (although it's slightly less cool). This is the wifi card I'd suggest.
  
• A slightly faster set of RAM (also marginally cheaper)
  
• For an extra $100 you can get the GTX 1080.
  
• Included an alternate case just for your reference.
  
• The Power Supply is super overkill in terms of wattage, but at $120 after Mail-in rebate its a good value. If you'd rather not submit Mail-in rebates, my next choice would be the EVGA G2 550W.
  
• Included a different monitor just as reference. This one is much more expensive, but it's 1440p (pretty!). Ultimately, the choice of monitor is something that is hard for an outsider to decide upon.
  
• Also, you don't have to buy Windows. A legally installed unpaid for Windows loses very little in terms of functionality vs paid for Windows.
  
  Overall, this build is actually several hundred cheaper than what you've selected, with the only sacrifice coming from your CPU (and a small sacrifice at that). The savings allowed you to move up to a faster graphics card, and gives you some room to potentially spend more on a monitor if you'd like.

Might be time for a new NIC, can't find a whole lot of info on your current one but if your other devices are doing fine in your room I would try replacing the card. I have this one and it works great although I use a wired connection now.

I'm not familiar with the one you picked up, so I can't really say much on it other than that usually doesn't bode well. The card you linked will be decent, I would still recommend taking a slight step up though. I don't think I've ever spend more than ~$30 on a network card, you don't need to spend $60 to get something quality.

In this day and age, I would say to at least get a dual band n adapter. If you can find a good deal on one, an ac adapter would future proof you a bit better, but it's not totally necessary.

Yes, it's fine. You could also look at a PCIe one, such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T6E-Wireless-Technology/dp/B016K0896K

Sounds good! If you're looking for a solid network card this one seems solid.

I suggest an internal card. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016K0896K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There aren't many USB cards that function well with Windows 10 that I have been able to find. I've owned about 5 of them because of this. Switched to an internal card and life is much better.

There should be a rule against off campus housing using misleading names like that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016K0896K?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I have this WiFi card and it's really good. A little more pricey than most but definitely way more reliable and well made. I've seen it do a gig up and down on 5GHz and you probably won't have to replace it years.

I have a Gigabyte Intel Z68 ATX DDR3 2133 LGA 1155 Motherboard GA-Z68A-D3H-B3

Just got upgraded to 5ghz comcast modem and need to get a wireless card that can handle it but I'm not sure what wireless card to get. Some are very cheap and some are really expensive. Any tips?

EDIT: bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016K0896K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Desktop-Wireless-802-11n-Hackintosh/dp/B01MDLG51U?th=1

I have this card. It is perfect and works oob. I ordered mine off e-bay though. It was $45

Works perfectly for me.

My wifi/bluetooth card is the Fenvi T919A:

https://www.amazon.com/802-11AC-Desktop-Bluetooth-Yosemite-Hackintosh/dp/B01MDLG51U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

No idea.

But get yourself a Fenvi FV T919 it works OOB (no kext no patches, nothing) and even has Bluetooth.

no, then you'd need something a bit more advanced like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLG51U/?tag=tonymacx86com-20 for example

I use this but it may be pricey for you, but I think totally worth it (especially for upgrades, don't have to deal with drivers).

It works perfectly for me, no drivers required. Also works in Windows.

http://www.osxwifi.com/apple-broadcom-bcm94360cd-802-11-a-b-g-n-ac-bluetooth-4-0-with-adapter-for-pc-hackintosh

This should work too:
https://www.amazon.com/802-11AC-Desktop-Bluetooth-Yosemite-Hackintosh/dp/B01MDLG51U/

Thanks! I don't have a use for either at the moment. But I would probably get this combo PCIe card that is usually recommended.

Fenvi Desktop Wireless Card

Maybe if I get the new V-Moda Crossfade 2 Wireless cans hehe.

I'm using the ASUS Maximus VIII HERO and it's absolutely fantastic. It is, hands down, the best motherboard I've ever owned. I can't recommend it enough. In fact, I like it so much that I've built three additional machines with it (for myself and coworkers at work).

It's relatively easy and simple to hackintosh.

In order to easily use Handoff/Continuity features, unfortunately Ethernet, wifi USB and Bluetooth USB chips won't work. In order to enable SMS forwarding and other continuity features (i.e. Universal Clipboard, unlock, etc), I'd recommend getting a Bluetooth/802.11ac PCIe card.

It's using the same Broadcom chip Apple uses in their laptops for Bluetooth and wifi, so it will work without ANY kexts or drivers or anything, it's just instant.

802.11AC Desktop Wifi Card 802.11 A/B/G/N/AC Bluetooth 4.0 OS X Yosemite 10.10+ PC/Hackintosh - Handoff and Continuity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLG51U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kl5pybWV6BWMH

I uses this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MDLG51U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481834212&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fenvi+hackintosh&dpPl=1&dpID=41B4jkipL6L&ref=plSrch
Seems this one is spoken well of on the hackintosh boards. The Chinese thing was not an issue. Just put connect small cable into Bluetooth connector, slide card in, and connect Bluetooth cable into an open USB connector on motherboard. If you use this from the start you should not run into the issue I had needing to delete old pairings.

Mine have all been refreshed to be built into the motherboard. They use mini pci-e notebook style chipsets integrated right on. I've since updated them all to Intel 9260 chipsets for Wave 2 AC.

If you're buying to add in to an existing board, just get a PCI-E add-in card. The USB ones are flakey at best and have pretty crappy antennas. Something like this is about as good as it gets. On the same page they sell an empty pci-e adapter card and you can buy the 9260 on Amazon separately for about $25 so you'll save a couple of bucks if you do the final assembly.

EDIT: Specifically this and this should do the same thing.

The Intel one is just M.2 Key E. NGFF was the old name for M.2.

You'd need something like this to use it in a desktop, if the motherboard doesn't have an M.2 Key E socket (and most don't - I've only ever seen them on Mini-ITX boards specifically to add WiFi).

Also note that to get Bluetooth you also need to plug in a USB cable. I've used the Intel solution before, and it works fine.

You can buy external antennas, they all use a standard RP-SMA connector.

A heatsink isn't necessary. Any of the M.2 Intel cards are not going to overheat inside a case with proper airflow.
If I were you, I'd just get an Intel 9260 and a PCIe Adapter off Amazon:

• https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-Ac-9260-2230-Gigabit/dp/B079QH5KW1/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Wireless-Network-Converter-Including/dp/B01MFGYAX6/

Honestly, pick up an Intel 9260 chip for $20 or less, then pick up a blank adapter for like $10.

Intel Wireless-Ac 9260, 2230, 2X2 Ac+Bt, Gigabit, No Vpro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QH5KW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aRB3DbZ517XGB

fenvi Desktop Wireless Network M.2(NGFF) WiFi Card to PCIe 1X Adapter Converter(Converter only!!Not Including WiFi Card) Compact Intel 7260 8260 3160 9260 AX200 Killer WiFi 6 AX1650 NGFF M.2 WiFi 6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFGYAX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hSB3DbFTCPBQD

I built my own, which also added Bluetooth, for less than $30.

Intel Wireless-Ac 9260

Fenvi Desktop Wireless Network M.2(NGFF) WiFi Card to PCIe 1X Adapter Converter

As others said, PCIe is the only realistic way to go. I bought this and then you can put whatever Intel card you want. I got the 9260NGW currently, but it allows for further upgrades later due to the nature of what it is. Imo, this is the best option as it allows for future upgrades while giving you all but your USB desires.

https://www.qualcomm.com/products/qca6174a-dual-band-wi-fi

m.2(not pcie)/ngff 2230 form factor(Double check to make sure).

2 prongs = PCIE

3 prongs = M.2

The 8265 or 9260 should work.

>Intel Dual Band Wireless-Ac 8265 W/Bt

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZA1AB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YkGYCbB75TX1J


>Intel Wireless-Ac 9260, 2230, 2X2 Ac+Bt, Gigabit, No Vpro

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QH5KW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kkGYCbABNR7G5

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000005511/network-and-i-o/wireless-networking.html

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Dual-Band-Wireless-Ac-8265/dp/B01MZA1AB2 if you don't want to waste a port. you'll need antennas if you don't have them, but the signal/range/speed will be much better than those dongles. I have several with the same chipset as the edimax (and an actual ew-7811us) and all work in a pinch but are usb2 so they'll be slower.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZA1AB2/

Though I think 9260 is compatible as well.

The amazon link I originally saw was about $25 USD, but I can't find it now, I've included the Canadian version I found.

recommended steps

WiFi card replacement

amazon link

Bought the latest Intel model off Amazon:

Intel Wifi Wireless-AC 8265 8265.NGWMG Dual Band 2x2 AC + BlueTooth M.2 Brown Box

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZA1AB2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just wanted something reliable with a good driver, I've never had a great experience with any Killer NIC or Wifi hardware. My Razer Blade Pro had similar problems due to the killer hardware/drivers.

You're right, he's using a better processor. I guarantee you a 1 gbps Ethernet port won't be a bottleneck until long after your computer's obsolete but if you need 10 for some reason you can get a PCIe one. Same thing with Thunderbolt.

If you really need ECC RAM in your personal computer for whatever reason you can you can replace that motherboard and RAM with this and two of these.

We're still under the iMac Pro in price after all these changes btw.

I'm not going to try and convince you to use Linux. Ultimately that's your choice and the only advice I can give is to try it. Dual boot at first until you get the hang of it, and if you think it's worth doing, try and live in Linux for a month without dual booting. Either you'll find you just can't make it work, or you'll figure out how to make it work. Only you can be the judge of whether it's worth making the switch.

But what I will do is try to convince you that you don't need to buy an Apple desktop computer.

A base model iMac Pro is ~$5k.

This system will let you install MacOS Mojave without having to do a bunch of hacky shit to get it to work, perform equal or better in all but the most heavily multithreaded tasks where it will only fall behind by a very small margin, for ~$2k less.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-8086K 4GHz 6-Core Processor | $439.89 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Thermaltake - Water 3.0 Extreme S 99.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $79.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte - Z370 AORUS Gaming 7 (rev. 1.0) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $218.50 @ OutletPC
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $279.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 860 Evo 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $55.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 970 Pro 1.0TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $397.79 @ Amazon
Storage | Hitachi - Ultrastar 7K4000 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $99.88 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI - Radeon RX VEGA 56 8GB Air Boost 8G OC Video Card | $449.99 @ Amazon
Case | Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.77 @ B&H
Other | Broadcom Bcm94360cs2 Bcm94360cs2ax Bcm4360 Bluetooth Bt Wireless Wifi Card Module for Apple Laptop A1465 A1466 653-0023 802.11ac | $34.49 @ Amazon
Other | Apple - Magic Keyboard with Numeric Keypad - Space Gray | $141.99 @ Amazon
Other | BenQ EW3270U 31.5 inch 4K HDR Monitor,FreeSync, True 10-Bit, 95% DCI-P3, 100% Rec.709, Eye-Care, USB Type-C, Built-in Speakers | $586.68 @ Newegg
Other | Magic Mouse 2 - Space Gray | $92.50 @ Adorama
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $3057.44
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $3037.44
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-15 06:47 EDT-0400 |

The differences:

• 6 cores/12 threads instead of 8 cores/16 threads
  
• 4ghz clock speed with 5ghz boost instead of 3.2ghz clock speed with 4.2ghz boost
  
• Doesn't use ECC RAM, which is unimportant for the vast majority of people.
  
• You'll need an expansion card for Thunderbolt 3. ($60) It must go in the bottom PCI-E 16x slot and you won't be able to use the bottom M.2 slot as a result. It also can be a little tricky to set up according to the forums.
  
• 4k monitor instead of 5k display. You could buy the LG 5k display (same panel as iMac Pro) from Apple's store if it's really that important to you, although it's about $1300, lacks HDR support and is 5 inches smaller. Although if the display is really that important to you, you should probably just buy the iMac Pro.
  
• ATX Mid Tower with proper cooling instead of wedging all this crap behind the monitor where it's choked for air and thermal throttles constantly.
  
  I based the parts off of this build while trying to match the specs of the iMac Pro as closely as possible. You could start cutting costs and easily bring this price down by quite a bit.
  
  If you don't care about having Mac peripherals, you can cut the keyboard and mouse and replace them with something cheaper and save about $150-200. If you don't need an RX Vega 56, you could go with an RX 470 and save about $250. If you don't need a 4ghz processor or all those cores, you could go with something a bit cheaper and save some money there. If you don't care about watercooling or a little fan noise, you could go for cheaper air cooling and save 30 or 40 bucks. None of those changes would introduce problems with installing MacOS.
  
  And with the included 250gb SSD, you can install a Linux distro of your choice to that drive and use the Boot Menu to dual boot. Or install Windows if you like. Or install Linux and then run MacOS Mojave as a VM with KVM/QEMU. Whatever tickles your fancy.
  
  Apple makes some great stuff, but given their price premium, their hostility to right-of-repair and how bloody easy it is to install MacOS on off the shelf components I don't see why anyone would spend more for Apple hardware.

Thunderbolt 3? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722SV69N

https://www.reddit.com/r/eGPU/comments/ab5s1o/whew_rocket_league_on_a_macbook_pro_egpu_success/

https://www.reddit.com/r/eGPU/comments/abggxt/help_bootcamp_windows_10_macbook_pro_13_2017/ed0tth9/?context=2

If you are trying to game on a macbook, use windows bootcamp. These links will help you. You already have an RX580 so all you need is the enclosure. go with a breakaway box.

https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Breakaway-Thunderbolt-Expansion-GPU-350W-TB3Z/dp/B072L9QTZT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549175166&sr=8-1&keywords=sonnet%2Begfx%2Bbreakaway%2Bbox&th=1

I bought the 350W to save cash, and i just have my laptop charger plugged in when using the egpu instead of having the box charge my laptop.

I updated the main post with your info.

This should work:
https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Breakaway-Thunderbolt-Expansion-GPU-350W-TB3Z/dp/B072L9QTZT/
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Supporting-Compatible/dp/B01H5QF2TK/

I did not try it personally and I have no clue if the dude that tried it had tracking issues as he went with the atenna extension-cable. For what it's worth, his system is a Xeon E5 (40 pcie-lanes), 32GB DDR4, GTX1080ti.

Did you use an enclosure for eGPUs and a 40Gbps active cable? How long is your cable? How many lanes has the pcie-port you connected it all to and what pcie-version (or how many GT/s are available for the card)?
Is the port you connected it all to a switched port or a full port?

I know that the Lenovo Yoga 720 has Thunderbolt 3 USB-C ports, so you can use this laptop to connect to an eGPU, while maintaining good portability. Then something like this eGPU would be able to connect to it, just need to pick what graphics card you want. I'd say a GTX 1060 should be your max.

The cheapest I found was this enclosure at $199 then you can add a RX 570 4gb for around $120 new (or less if you go used) for your use since I gues you wanted the 5500 but the problem is that that card will be sold for the moment in prebuilts and not in retail. Could change in the future.

It looks like the Sonnet eGFX box :) OP said the card is an RX580 so it's likely the 'RX580 Bundle' on the amazon page.

https://www.amazon.com/XG-C100C-Network-Adapter-Single-RJ-45/dp/B072N84DG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518772030&sr=8-1

Put it this way: No consumer gear handles that kind of speed. 10GbE chips and cards are pretty pricey on their own, and that one's at the lower end of the price spectrum. That's just for your PC; imagine having to have 5 of those in a router, plus a CPU fast enough to actually handle the routing involved. You're talking enterprise gear at that point.

Also, a lot of CAT6 is not proper CAT6, often with shielding issues and other such that can even perform worse than CAT5e will. You're always best off getting CAT5e. Seriously, gigabit internet on its own is so fast and rare that you're unlikely to find or need faster for probably a decade, and within your own house, sneakernet will always be faster.

The ASUS 10g stuff is pretty cheap
https://www.amazon.com/XG-C100C-Network-Adapter-PCI-E-Single/dp/B072N84DG6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502305356&sr=1-2&keywords=asus+10g
https://www.amazon.com/XG-U2008-Unmanaged-2-Port-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B01LZMM7ZO/ref=pd_sbs_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LZMM7ZO&pd_rd_r=5VJPJKBW07E44H2J7SK3&pd_rd_w=kISbQ&pd_rd_wg=eOqL4&psc=1&refRID=5VJPJKBW07E44H2J7SK3

Both of my servers also already have 10g nics and everything else is wireless.

World has moved on, mate... 10gbit adapters have been on sale for a few years now. They're not even that expensive any more these days. Plenty of motherboards that come with 10gbit ethernet ports.

As for internet connection, it's not unlikely that OP has 1 gbit internet connection. I have a 2gbit internet connection myself, but unfortunately, I can't use it on a single PC because it only has a gigabit NIC.

Thanks so much! I wasn't including ngff on my searches for antennas so that must have been why I was having issues finding ones that worked with the 9260.

I was just going to get this one since it seems to be the cheapest of the bunch on Amazon even though they all appear the same.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QH5KW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_4GrjDbDXYZZG2

I'm not sure why my back panel has 3 antenna holes but I'll just cover the 3rd one with foil tape I guess. I haven't seen any antenna set for a m.2 WiFi card that has 3 antennas.

Yeah I wanted to avoid a pcie card since I have a 5700XT and wanted as much free space for airflow as possible. Not sure if it would matter but figured it couldn't hurt.

Thanks again for the help!

Any m.2 2230 card should work. This one is probably the newest and cheapest: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-Ac-9260-2230-Gigabit/dp/B079QH5KW1/

The 7265 is the high end one that came in the R1: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Corp-7265-Wireless-2x2/dp/B00RCZ4I6S/

I would say first try removing the Killer Internet Suite/whatever they call it and just leave the driver installed, not the additional software that they try to bundle with it.

If that doesn't solve it, the recommended replacement I've seen floating around this sub is the Intel 8260, or its newer brethren, the Intel 9260

My first PC build has been an absolute nightmare, but finally at the end of the journey, the icing on the cake is that the new wireless card isn't working or even showing up as even plugged in on the BIOS motherboard display screen

Here is the card: Intel wireless AC 9260 2230 card

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079QJQF4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is my motherboard: MSI Z390-A PRO

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MSI-Z390-Socket-1151-S-ATA/dp/B07HSCY9R3/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=msi+motherboard+z390&qid=1565633995&s=computers&sr=1-2

This motherboard has a wireless dedicated M.2 slot on it that supports CNVI IEEE 802.11 AC WAVE2. This is where the card has been put in, with the antennas attached.

I'm running windows 10 if that is relevant, but I'm not sure if it is because even the BIOS can't pick up the card.

Wow, I didn't know they actually advertised Intel Wifi. I bought this same exact board from the exact link you posted and mine also came with a Realtek card, which is complete and utter shit. I cannot emphasize how awful that card was; low reception and like 3 mbps download speed on 100 mbps internet. If I knew about the listed wifi I would have definitely complained on amazon.

Too late now though, since I already purchased an Intel 9260 with Bluetooth to replace that godawful realtek card.

Intel Wireless AC 9260 Single Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QJQF4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LoZRDb43SBCNH

I'm already running into intermittent issues with the Killer card. You think 8260/8265 are more stable than the 9260?

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $269.99 @ Newegg Canada
Motherboard | ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $84.25 @ Vuugo
Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $79.99 @ Newegg Canada
Storage | ADATA - Ultimate SU800 512 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $75.99 @ Amazon Canada
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $144.99 @ Newegg Canada
Video Card | MSI - GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB GAMING Z Video Card | $537.99 @ Newegg Canada
Case | Cooler Master - MasterBox NR400 (w/ODD) MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $77.99 @ Newegg Canada
Power Supply | EVGA - BQ 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Newegg Canada
Optical Drive | LG - WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $74.99 @ Newegg Canada
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $129.25 @ Newegg Canada
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan | $18.95 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan | $18.95 @ Amazon Canada
Monitor | LG - 32GK650F-B 32.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor | $499.99 @ Newegg Canada
Headphones | Kingston - HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset | $109.98 @ Amazon Canada
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2228.29
| Mail-in rebates | -$25.00
| Total | $2203.29
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-08 11:35 EDT-0400 |
Wait a few days for the 2060 Super, this was just a place-holder.

You don't need a capture card. Capture cards are for consoles that don't have built-in recording functions. For PC you just need software. I recommend LoiLo Game Recorder, it's free and simple to use.

I don't know about editing software, ask google I guess.

For microphone, I recommend Blue Yeti. I don't have one, but they sound good, and aren't too expensive.

I didn't include keyboard and mouse because I don't know how you like your's. I suggest looking on Amazon and Googling it to find what you like best.

When you install Windows, do it on the M.2 SSD, it's faster. When you put in the M.2 SSD, make sure you put it in the right M.2, this motherboard has two, and one is faster.

For internet, I'd definitely get a Ethernet cable, they are like $15 on Amazon. If you don't want a Ethernet cable (if your computer too far away from Router, or you just don't want to deal with having a cable going through your house) than this seems like the best option https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B079QJQF4Y, this can go in your second M.2 slot.

(Edit: Everything be so expensive in Canada :I)
(Edit 2: Better parts list)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QJQF4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I put this in and got rid of the stock killerwireless card. So much better with connections and stuff. Just remove all killer drivers before installing the card and make sure you have the intel drivers downloaded and ready to go

This one is better and cheaper.

Both the Asus Prime and the MSI Gaming Carbon are great boards, but unfortunately neither of them have integrated WiFi/Bluetooth as you requested. That would cost an additional $30 or so with an add-in card such as this- https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6

Anyhow, no, the 2700x doesn't require an X470 motherboard, as X470's biggest selling point is SLI compatibility (and usually better VRMs, etc). Go with what makes the most sense to you. You can find VRM specifications listed out with a quick google on each board, and determine if spending more money in total is worthwhile or not. All of these options will give you great performance.

I don't think you can go wrong with the gigabyte one. I have the Rev 3.0 I think and it's served me well although I mostly use Ethernet/Bluetooth not wifi.

Included antenna is magnetic/free standing so you can position it easier/better.

What would be the advantage of the item listed in the title over the GC-WB867D-I

Am I missing something? The gigabyte model even has Bluetooth recognition whereas the AC1900 does not

Right now your gonna want a AC WiFi card with Bluetooth. This model is the latest I believe with dual band 2.4Ghz & 5Ghz antennas. 2.4Ghz is gonna be the most congested because a lot of devices use it like cell phones, microwaves and baby monitors. 5Ghz band is gonna give you the most bandwidth and faster speeds but it has shorter range. Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.0/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NdWnzbEM523C9

If you are needing dedicated wifi, It performs well for the price. Look into a longer ethernet cable if you can, its worth it over wifi.

I have this one

And I get something like 400mbps up/down which is fine, but the bluetooth has some issues from time to time if I have too many devices connected.

Rather than getting the Intel card + adapter separately, buy them together: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I.

PLC: Comtrend PG-9172KIT 1200 Mbps 2-Unit Kit.

USB dongle works fine. A 1x PCIe card will give much better signal range, due to the larger antennas. A USB dongle inserted in the back of the chassis may have poor performance due to the big block of metal (the PC itself) in between the dongle and the BT device, too. (I had this issue with a USB wireless mouse dongle, and had to get a USB extension cable)

If you're willing to spend a little more, you can get a fast wifi card + bluetooth with an external remote antenna, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6

Would this even work with non SSD type M.2 cards? I don't know.

I agree with /u/techboy317 - return it and buy a PCI card with WiFi and Bluetooth. Here's one that's $40

I've seen some really spotty USB wireless adapters, so personally I'm sticking to PCI-e. I'd recommend something that supports 802.11ac if you plan on gaming. http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ would probably do the trick.

I need a new PCI e card for my desktop. currently have Realtek RTL8192CE Wireless LAN 802.11n PCI-E NIC it's slow and having massive connectivity issues

looking at I'm currently looking at https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320181&cm_re=pci_express_wifi_adapter-_-33-320-181-_-Product

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704274&cm_re=pci_express_wifi_adapter-_-33-704-274-_-Product

This one? http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6

My PC has a Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I card that has Bluetooth and wireless networking connectivity. It works for what I need it to, but I wish I could be hardwired.

Depends if you have an open PCIE slot (the smallest slot) on your motherboard. I have this Gigabyte card : https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6 which I bought in 2016 and I love. Blazing fast and has Bluetooth.

Just remember, don't buy if you don't have the slot on the motherboard.

I have one of these. I am on the otherside of the house to my modem router and this works pretty well.

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6

Its perfectly in your price range.

3- wd blues are great drives, and i've been running one solo for the past 2 years, but about to buy an ssd for my os and important programs. 1tb and 2tb. also note that the 1tb drive is 7200 rpm vs 5400 rpm in the 2tb, but since you aren't running the OS on that and just using it for storage, it's nothing to worry about.

4- stick everything in here. that's there recommended wattage psu to get, but its probably worth it just to get something 50 watts over that.

5- obviously, ethernet is the best choice, but if that's not available you can get something like this. one of my friends has powerline, and its really weird for him. some outlets he gets good speeds, and others are absolute trash. turning off and on the lights repeatedly causes a little lag while gaming, but overall he still likes it and uses it.

6- 27 inches is really huge, and you're not going to find a 1440p, 144hz, 27in, and gsync monitor for less than that.

Yes, you can fit 4 more fans. If you want wireless connectivity you would need a WiFi card. I'd suggest something like this.

If you are going with a PCIe wifi card then I would look for two things:

• It uses an Intel m.2 wifi module
  
  
• It doesn't have antennas that stick directly out the back. The antennas have a cable that allow you to position them away from behind your case and any interference.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0713RRZMB

https://www.amazon.com/SIENOC-Female-Motherboard-Housing-Adapter/dp/B00EOI3VC8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502574273&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+3+to+2

your google-fu is bad

for wifi, this is the cheap solution, N only

this is better, AC and Bluetooth

Wireless card = PCIe card

Wireless adapter = USB dongle

That being said, I use a dare I say it wireless PCIe card to game. I used a USB dongle in the past. Sure they're slightly cheaper but not worth it overall (performance and aesthetic wise). I'd recommend [this one](Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_SXlRFi3faA53w) from amazon.

this is the one i always put in new builds. Dual band, bluetooth, fast, reliable. never had a bad thing to say about it.

This gigabyte wireless PCIE card is the most recommended product out there. They actually use an intel 8265 wireless card attached to a PCIE card so it works great. Asus makes a slightly cheaper version using their own wireless card too, but the gigabyte is the most recommended on pcpartpicker.

From what I've seen a PCIE expansion card costs about $40, and buying an m.2 card costs about $25 (as long as you have a slot that accepts it on your motherboard). You can cut corners here and there but sticking to intel-based wireless products seems to be the best choice for reliability.

I use a Rosewill N900PCE. It uses the same chipset as the TP-Link WDN4800, but it's about $9-10 cheaper. The main reason I got it was because it was out of the box Hackintosh compatible though. I don't really see the need to spend $80 on a wireless card, but that's just me. If you really want AC compatible, Gigabyte has this one for around $30 on Amazon.

Laptops usually have a much larger antenna and circuit board as well as having a direct connection to the motherboard & power, alowing for more powerful components to be used as compaired to a compact USB device that is limited to a set power input and connection speed.

If you are able to, I would suggest going to a wired ethernet connection for your computer as it will give you the most stable connection with online games, failing that you could go with an internal WiFi card with an external antenna which would help with the reception problems.

Somthing like this: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_7/181-9050846-3572248?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1451737097&sr=1-7&keywords=wifi+card

As already stated, you don't really need an ac protocol for "only" 50Mbit.

But, keep in mind that the AC protocol only works on the 5 GHz band and not the 2.4 GHz band. So, if your router doesn't support using an extra 2.4 ghz (which is very very unlikely), you have to make sure the wifi-card supports 5ghz. That doesn't mean you MUST buy an ac card, because ac is always 5 ghz, but the n protocol can be both. So, just a little tip ;)

I don't know where you live, but maybe this one is a nice in between, between the two cards you proposed :)

For the overscanning issue this link may help.

For the bluetooth problem you could try a PCI bluetooth device that may have more range and less input lag. If it doesn't fit your needs Amazon is always good about refunds.

NP. I know this card has duel BT and Wi-Fi, but I don't know if it's good or not. I'd look into it:

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 1600 | $259.99 @ Newegg.ca
Motherboard | MSI B350 Tomahawk | $124.99 @ Newegg.ca
Memory | G.Skill Aegis DDR4 DDR4-3000 16GB (16 GB) | $166.99 @ Newegg.ca
Storage | WD Blue WD20EZRZ (2 TB) | $79.99 @ Amazon.ca
SSD | SanDisk Ultra II 480GB TLC (480 GB) | $195.73 @ Amazon.ca
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC 2 Gaming iCX | $599.99 @ Amazon.ca
Case | Carbide Series 200R Compact ATX | $74.99 @ Amazon.ca
Power Supply | be quiet! Pure Power 10 (500 W) | $69.9 @ Newegg.ca
| Total | $1572.57
| Generated by pc-kombo 03.09.2017 |

I at first wanted to create build with an i7 cpu for you, but I was not able to fit it into budget. Not with a GTX 1070 and the other requirements, like the bigger SSD. And without the GTX 1070 a stronger cpu for 144Hz gaming is pretty much useless.

That's why that build has a Ryzen 5 cpu, which has the advantage of being a better cpu for programming and the VMs, while still being good for gaming. The mentioned 1070 to go with it, and 16GB of fast ram. 2TB HDD, 480GB SSD. Note that I opted for a cheaper case than the R5, but if you want to use up your budget you could swap it out. But the 200R at least looks equally nice (but is a bit worse).

I don't know which optical drive you are searching. Which medium do you want to read? For Wifi you should add https://www.amazon.ca/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6 (but there are alternatives, like https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Archer-T9E-Wireless-Beamforming/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/)

I recommend this one Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AzlXCb4074G13

This may gain a few "witchcraft!" responses, but I tried wifi with a bluetooth/wifi antenna that screwed into the back of my PC, and it could be pretty unreliable at times. I also used a powerline adapter set up, and it was almost as reliable as ethernet. People couldn't believe it. I bought the kit for something like 25USD and I preferred it over wifi. Might be worth a try.

The card: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VbdVCb97PH2Z9

The powerline adapter: TP-LINK AV200 Nano Powerline... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

So I, like many others, have done this upgrade recently. With comcast and the other ISPs feeling the heat lately they are upgrading for free, via promos. I helped my mom and my uncle out after they upgraded.

First, I, personally, wouldn't buy a modem new. There are plenty of perfectly good used modems out there. This is the list of comcast approved devices. You might have already been aware of it. Try not to spend $100+. As long as you get a modem with the DOCSIS 3.0 standard and telephony you should be fine. My recommendation is to buy a used, but not totally beaten down, modem from a reputable dealer on ebay or amazon. Don't spend money you don't have to.

Second, you might want to consider upgrading to the wireless AC standard. I actually own a TP-LINK N300, but there is, most times, a good deal of packet loss with wifi. This will result in slower actual network speeds than the 300 Mbps specification. I cannot say you won't get the full 105 Mbs but if you have a lot of local traffic (from say your NAS and other local devices) you will definitely see a slowdown. It all depends on the amount of traffic at any one time, and if you desire to utilize the entire 105 Mbps. Wireless AC will alleviate this concern.

At the very least get a wireless AC adapter because they only cost a few dollars more than the N's. If you choose to upgrade the router later you're only out $20.

tldr: Buy used modem. Future-proof with wireless AC router and adapter, if you/your household are a heavy wifi users.

Best of luck!

Agreed, and make sure you get one with an Intel Wifi module such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/

Sounds good!
Just one more questions if you don't mind.

Would you recommend the wireless one or paying a little more for the wired one?

I have this wifi card that also doubles as a bluetooth adapter in my PC, so no issues with connectivity on my part (how I use my Switch).

I figure the pros/cons will probably center around wired/wireless and requiring batteries for the wireless one.

Sorry, I usually like to get someone else's opinion before committing.

I believe it depends on the driver you have with the bluetooth chip. Generally, my understanding is that most chipsets that support 4.0+ should be able to transmit apt-LL. I personally use this without issue:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not sure how to test beyond having a apt-LL device to receive the signal. That said, if you find out yours doesn't then you could always add one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZYYPFHU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It looks like it does not support Wifi, googling the specs tells you this. You can bet that if it did have WiFi, they'd use it as a selling point somewhere obvious lol.

Really, any PCI-e wifi card will do. Just get something with a PCI-E x1 connection, make sure it has specs that you like (as well as decent reviews), and slap it in there. I'm personally using this adapter from Gigabyte, since I wanted Dual-Band (2.4 GHz and 5.0 GHz) as well as bluetooth functionality for my VR-capable rig. But if you don't need all that, feel free to shop around. I recommend at least a Dual-Channel card though, so check to see if it offers 5.0 GHz connectivity.

The only thing I really dislike about it is that the antenna is a magnetic mount; it sticks to the (out)side of my computer case and just kinda sticks out like a... well, like an antenna. Most of the cards that I've seen around have antenna that just stick out the back of the card, and therefore the back of the PC; out of sight, out of mind.

This Gigabyte product comes with that same exact Intel wireless chip, plus a PCIe adapter and antenna, for the same price (or less, if you find an Amazon seller that doesn't charge tax for your state):

• http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813995032
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6

To everyone who is curious as to how well this works. I went from an okay 300-500mbps connection to an 'excellent' 780mbps connection.

This wasn't exactly designed and implemented out of necessity, but I was tired of getting crazy ping spikes in battlefield 4 when the signal would change down or up. Not getting advertised wireless AC speeds bugged me alot, too.

Here is the wireless card the parabolic is strapped to if anyone is wondering. It has been a solid performer for the most part.

I bought two of these, no issues, has Bluetooth as well and an extra USB port on the card so I put my Xbone Wireless adapter in it so it wasn't sticking out of the back of the case. Windows 10 drivers installed by default.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6

I've been very happy with this card: forty bucks for a pci-e Intel 7260.

It also does Bluetooth 4.0 if you have a spare 9-pin USB header.

Sounds good. Any EdgeRouter will be perfect for gaming. The best way to connect your desktop to Wi-Fi would be to install an actual Wi-Fi adapter. Assuming you have a PCI-E x1 slot available, this one should be perfect for you.

I have these:

Wireless-AC 7260 for Desktop Network Adapter

Alfa Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless

Rosewill RNX-AC1200UBE - Dual Band Wireless AC1200 Adapter

All work fine with an RT-AC66U.

Generally speaking, both for Linux compatibility and just in general usage: Intel and Atheros are good, Broadcom is not.

Two good options:

• Intel 7260 $50 (Amazon US, WikiDevi): Intel chip, fully supported in kernel 3.10+
  
• Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV4.2 $44 (Amazon US, WikiDevi): Uses an Intel 8260, fully supported in kernel 3.10+

I'd like you to look into getting this intel 7260 wireless adapter instead.

I've had the Tp-link adapter as well and definitely preferred the extra 100mbps, Bluetooth 4.0, and AC wireless I got with this instead.

Do note that this is a mobile wireless chip in a desktop adapter, and a long ass antenna.


Edit: Clarified differences.

We usually always go with INTEL: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Desktop-Network-7260HMWDTX1-R/dp/B00OM0L9ZO/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Can't claim that's some magical universal answer though. It works for us. May not work as well for you if differing Wireless-environment.

I'd recommend the Asus 4.0, though it does take a rebate to get it to $10. Also sold on Amazon but currently out of stock.

The Kinivo 4.0 is the most popular one on Amazon, but looks like it's currently out of stock from Amazon.com so you take the small risk of getting a counterfeit from a 3rd party Amazon marketplace seller.

AFAIK the non-counterfeit receivers mostly have the same one or two chips inside, whatever the brand stamped on the outside. The risk with getting cheaper no-name ones (or name brand from shady sources) is you're probably getting old or counterfeit radio chips.

If you want to go super swank on desktop, there's the $50 Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 with Bluetooth 4.0. The range on that thing has to be crazy.

Personally I would go powerline ethernet adapter or something similar to this one

I own both of those, and they are both very good products.

Wireless integrity depends on a significant number of factors such as distance from the router and number of users/signals in your immediate proximity. If you`re in an apartment building it can be rough. If you`re like me, where you have a house and being hardwired isn`t financially viable at the moment but you are still relatively close to your router, results are much better. I am using one of these guys (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item) and have zero issues. Can play games such as WoW, Overwatch, destiny, BF1, etc etc etc with zero issues and zero disconnects.

Rather have the card inside then something outside, I also noticed that USB adapter usually shit out a lot fast then PCI cards. IF you loooking for one, https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-PCI-Express-Beamforming-Archer-T9E/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496081165&sr=1-1&keywords=tp+link+archer+t9e just went down 10 usd and they just released a driver 3 days ago (last driver was 3 years old)

You probably should get a better network card. Your router support AC and dual band. You probably want to take advantage of 5GHz frequency. Also, check your wireless network traffic in your apartment. There's an app on your phone that will tell you how many traffic you have 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz around you. From there, you can choose which frequency or perhaps both.

You can get something cheap like this

Or something more expensive like this

There are cheap wireless AC adapter now. You can look around Amazon and probably find something suitable to your need and finance.

Sounds like you're pretty much stuck using wifi.

I like these TP Link cards: TP-Link AC1900 Wireless Dual Band PCI-Express Adapter with Beamforming Technology (Archer T9E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T.5GzbDN6R49G

Anything more than that and you probably won't see an improvement because your Unifi AP probably doesn't have a 4x4 radio.

The other person was right, though. AC may not be faster or more reliable than 2.4n because of signal loss due to floors/ceilings.

Also remember for gaming that low latency and packet loss are always better than high bandwidth. A slow (within reason,) reliable connection is better than a spotty, fast one.

If you choose a USB one, try to make sure it is plugged into a different USB controller than the two main sensors for your Rift. They use the most bandwidth.

Good luck!

I was thinking of getting this for my build: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV 4.2

Should I drop another $20 for this TP-Link Archer T9E?

Here's a couple of options:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B007GMPZ0A&linkCode=as2&tag=nerdtechy-20&linkId=J2FGY3ZUEFQFYK52&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B007GMPZ0A&linkCode=as2&tag=nerdtechy-20&linkId=J2FGY3ZUEFQFYK52&th=1


Or you could swap out the mobo in there for one with built in wireless. In that case, I recommend https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2Phj4D/asus-strix-z270-e-gaming-atx-lga1151-motherboard-strix-z270-e-gaming

God damn how did you get a set of genuine for $32.69

This is a great wireless card, it will perform much better than a powerline adapter.

The C7 is an excellent choice. I would pair it with a TP-Link T6E wireless adapter for your PC. If you want a USB adapter, look at the T4U instead.

For your modem, there is always the SB6141 that works well, but I think it's getting phased out in favor of the 6183. The 6183 might be overkill for your connection, but it will last you a long time.

Just put this in a fresh build for my son. Getting full speeds over my WiFi. 50mb connection. I did read in the comments on amazon to use Asus Broadcom drivers and not the tplink ones. So far so good. TP-Link AC1300 PCIe Wireless Wifi PCIe Card | 2.4G/5G Dual Band Wireless PCI Express Adapter | Low Profile, Long Range, Heat Sink Technology | Supports Windows 10/8.1/8/7/XP (Archer T6E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0896K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J00uDbKKS27JT

I have this wireless card in my PC and I love it. Have never had any issues with it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0896K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QsluDb4YZYY0X

This looks like a good Ethernet card:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000XKBQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_juluDbH0ZT4BH

But if you have the room I'd recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IvluDbZ7EP9F2

could also be iffy router, but I would highly recommend using an internal wifi card instead, like this

Usually there is some thermal paste pre-applied to metal base of the cooler, or a small amount of paste will be included.

As for tools a screw driver should be all you need (a long one can be useful to reach), an ESD wrist wrap. can be useful but to be honest I don't use it myself, just try to rid yourself of any static electricity (one other easy way to do this is to touch your PC case while the PSU is installed and plugged in, it has a ground connection).

There are PCIe add in cards that you can buy for wifi, something like TP-Link T6E is fairly common.

Feel free as well to hit my up about any specific X570 recommendations come launch.

I mean, it does have an affiliate code in it. Non-affiliate link: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T6E-Wireless-Express/dp/B016K0896K

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T6E-Wireless-Express/dp/B016K0896K?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAJB3PKOUXZY2U5MTQ&tag=pcgamingbui02-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B016K0896K

Assuming PCI-E: I just got this one this past week and have been thrilled with it. My isp speed is 1gbps and at a range of roughly 60 feet and four walls, a steel shelf full of WiFi enabled 3D printers and my desk between my desktop and the router I’m seeing ~560mbps.

TP-Link Archer AC1300 WiFi Card PCIe Adapter with Heatsink Technology (T6E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0896K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qNOEmyTBPgtrD

Three options.

the first/PCIe one is the cleanest as the device will live in the computer and make the desktop act like a laptop in respect to how wireless networks function.

• wireless ac via PCIe
  
• wireless ac via PCIe
  
  The second/USB one is pretty much the same but will have less performance due to antenna diversity and the USB interface.
  
  
• Wireless ac via USB
  
• Wireless ac via USB
  
  
  The third/router is probably the most ideal as it will allow the computer to continue using the onboard ethernet, and give you additional ports to plug other things into. It does have the complexity of having to switch the router into bridge/client mode, but that isn't very hard.
  
  
• Router in bridge mode
  
  As of now the OnHub/GF equipment doesn't interop directly. They are separate business units, and operate independently. It's possible they will integrate in the future but as of now they are on distinct paths from each other.

I personally do not have one, so anyone else is welcome to chime in, but these look good to me:

Cheaper one
If you have 5GHz wifi
If you want Bluetooth

The PCI adapters will be more expensive, so if you aren't doing anything that critical you could stick with the USB and save some money.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T6E-Wireless-Technology/dp/B016K0896

This one has good reviews, and supports 5GHz connection

Some motherboards come with built in bluetooth/wifi/bluetooth+wifi, some come with an extra bluetooth/wifi/bluetooth+wifi dongle thingy that you put onto the motherboard, some don't come with any bluetooth/wifi/bluetooth+wifi.

Motherboards come with at least one LAN port.



EDIT: The wifi card I have is here http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GMPZ0A/?tag=pcpapi-20. TP-link is a very popular manufacturer for them, and while this specific model is pricey, i love it.

Gaming doesn't require much bandwidth at all, so you'd be fine with Wireless N. Don't spend too much. I'm using a TP-Link PCI-e card and it does just fine. :) Linked below.

TP-Link N900

https://www.amazon.com/gp/bestsellers/electronics/13983711/ref=zg_b_bs_13983711_1

I personally have this one and it works great.

If you are doing a custom build you should consider a internal wifi card, which most of time will give you better speed and reliability.

First off, USB is not an option for you if you want less signal loss. A tri-antenna PCI adapter like this one will suit you better. You should also look into a wifi repeater/extender (I don't know any good ones, though).

You're talking about internet connection I'm assuming.

I'd recommend this Wireless Adapter Card. I use it (BF4 multiplayer) and I'm extremely satisfied. This fits into a PCIe adapter on the motherboard. Note that you should probably have a good router/internet speed to begin with for this to be effective.

If you have a router supporting 5GHz it is highly recommended to get a dual band adapter. Something from tp-link would serve you well: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-450Mbps-Wireless-Express-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A#nav-search-keywords

A) First off, if you are close to your router, invest in some Cat5e or Cat6 cable for connection. A lot of people here might preach Wi-Fi, but I believe for what you intend to use this computer for (Gaming???, probs due to its name) you'll have better luck & Connection by hardwiring directly to the router itself.

B) https://www.amazon.com/PCI-Wifi-adapter/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8 This SHOULD work for a wi-fi adapter. This is coming from an Amazon review who bought the Motherboard and then went on to put this adapter in one of his open slots.

like this?

Yes I do (Althought I always recommend Cable over Wifi ,but I'll just assume that isn't a possiblity for you :P )

The Archer T series are good. The 3 models come up as top, T6E , T8E , T9E. Some do 802.11AC wifi others don't. Depends on your router and home network if you would have any use for that.

Those are all PCI Cards you place inside your PC. The Asus PCE-AC68 also deserves a mention if we are talking about High performance Wireless cards. Althought its expensive.

You can also go the USB route, you'll end up with dongles like this Netgear AC1200 which is a excellent USB options, but once again pricey (See the trend, dont worry we are getting there)

A more affordable PCI Options would be this TP-LINK WDN4800 N900 or a USB dongle like this TP-Link WDN4200 N900

And if you are really low on funds you could go for something like the Asus USB-N13 for 18$ or TP-Link N300 which is only 11$.

Personally I'd recommend you grab the TP N900, either the PCI or USB variant would do fine , PCI is faster, USB is probably a bit more versatile as you can use it with any PC/Laptop. N900 gets great reviews all around and it supports 802.11N , should be plenty fast for gaming. One issue the N900 seems to have is Digital signage with W10 ,so you need a different driver than the official one to get by this issue and use 5ghz. Not sure if thats relevant for you.

Either way ,you see the trend, Asus and TP-link are really my go2brands for anything networking.

I realize I still gave you a ton of choices, might not be the most helpful, but atleast you'll have some direction to look.

I just did a quick search and something like this should give you about the same performance as using ethernet

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-450Mbps-Wireless-Express-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473562419&sr=8-1&keywords=pcie+wireless+adapter

If you've got a PCI slot on your mobo free you can get a wireless card to put in there for sure. Like this.
You could also get an Ethernet Over Power kit like this. You'd plug one into an outlet near your router, and run an ethernet cable from the router to it. Then plug the second one in near your PC, and connect to it with your ethernet cable. Voila. I've never used them, but I have a friend who uses one with great success.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1406749283&sr=1-2&keywords=wireless+adapter

This one cost more but I am piggy backing on his post. Would it make a difference to get the one you posted or the one I linked?

How good are these things?

You don’t need NVME unless you are dealing with many bytes of data fast (ex: servers). A 2.5” SATA SSD would be enough for gaming, you won’t notice any performance difference... I would go with this WiFi card if you just want WiFi or the one you already have there if you want Bluetooth and WiFi.
It shouldn’t matter, the only thing that does is that you’re getting a PCIE WiFi card :))

TP-Link TL-WDN4800 N900 WLAN Dual Band PCI-E Adapter (bis zu 450Mbit/s auf 2,4GHz oder 5GHz, 3 Externe Antenne, geeignet für Windows 10/8.x/Vista/7/XP) https://www.amazon.de/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8yd1AbQWFH2YT


I dont use BT anyway, so thats ok

Hold up! HOLD UP!

That's $35 retail. It's probably a phishing scam. DO NOT ORDER IT!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WDN4800-450Mbps-Wireless-Express/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_2

I have this and it should work fine with *BSD.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497934099&sr=8-2&keywords=wifi+pci


or this one if you want something better https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497934145&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+pci

First of all I'd rather get a Ryzen build instead of i5. The i5 doesn't really make sense since you can get a 6 core 12 threads CPU for a same price.

As for the Wi-Fi: buy a PCI card and that's it. Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007GMPZ0A/?tag=pcp0f-21

If your looking for an internal here is what I use.

TP-Link TL-WDN4800 N900 Dual Band PCI-E Wireless WiFi network Adapter Card for PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PZkaCb738SW5C

A little expensive but works so well it's easy to take for granted.

I bought the cheaper version before: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_dp_i1?th=1

It works great as well. Just make sure it's not too close to your GPU otherwise it will have heat issue.

Here you go

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1417359520&sr=8-5&keywords=wifi+adapter this is the best selling one on Amazon so I would go with that.

Basically any PCIe wifi adapter will work. I'd get something like this

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492674096&sr=8-1&keywords=pcie+wireless

It has more features than you need, but still isn't that expensive at $35

If you just want the bare minimum at $16

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492675033&sr=1-2&keywords=pcie+wireless

Assuming you don't live a densely populated area where lots of people will have their own networks, or your router is close to your computer then the second will be perfectly fine. The first will provide a bit more future proofing such as being able to connect to 5ghz networks.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418006490&sr=8-1&keywords=Wireless+card This is a pretty good wifi card. That card is pretty fast. Source: In second pc. Or instead of a wifi card you could get a powerline adapter if your house isn't too old. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSQAIQU/ref=s9_al_bw_g147_i5 I prefer powerline over wifi card since the its basically a wired connection except it uses yours houses electrical wiring to work.

Then yes, you would benefit from a upgrade.

I'd recommend this. http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419112389&sr=8-1&keywords=tp-link+pci+5ghz

I can help you check if it will work.

if you can find me a wifi card that can saturate the 1Gb/s bandwidth (and that's at the slowest configuration), you let me know because i want one too ;)

Anyway, pretty much any TP-link cards are good.

idk your budget, but https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0DV05YA0Y15599SSQ3AM

there's also the AC version for the best performace possible. (you'll need a AC capability wifi access point too)

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-300Mbps-TL-WN851ND/dp/B005NHIQ06/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494535318&sr=1-3&keywords=tp+link+pci

if you want to utilize the pci slot. and don't want to spend $20 more.

more search results

My friend JUST bought this card and it came in the other day. For some reason his wifi isnt working, bluetooth works fine but WIFI light or any kind of system recognition isnt happening. Not sure what happened, maybe he got a dud. I read the comments on amazon and everyone else had Bluetooth problems, so i have no idea. I have a TP link card and it works beautifully.

I have this one

Here is in in my rig, super low profile

I recommend using the TP-Link WDN4800. Its what I have in my system and works great for iMessage. I'm not sure about Handoff and Continuity support but as far as I know, its not supported with this particular card but for iMessage, it works great!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481114190&sr=8-1&keywords=tp-link+wdn4800+450mbps+pcie+adapter

It seems that you have no wireless card so you need to buy one. Here's a cheap one from ebay (don't know about the quality though) and here's an even cheaper one but it's most likely crap. You can also buy a better one like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453512753&sr=1-1&keywords=tp-link

Your lan is working you want a wlan connection and as said before your mobo doesn't have a built in wireless card

You need one of these my boyo

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A

Anything PCIe works. I use this one - https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Antennas/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1504800675&sr=8-5&keywords=network+card

I assume you mean the Ethernet cord, yes that will need to run to an ethernet port, be it in the wall or the router. You can open it up and put a wifi card in there if you so choose:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480111926&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+card

sure thing...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4770 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $296.78 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H87N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $111.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial Ballistix 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $59.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Scorpio Black 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.99 @ Newegg
Case | Apex MI-008 Mini ITX Tower Case w/250W Power Supply | $49.20 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $572.95
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-30 14:01 EDT-0400 |

Thats comparible in price to the i5 mini. but you'll get 4 times the amount of render threads, twice the ram, and a faster Harddrive. It doesnt include an OS tho. If you already have one, then youre golden. Its the price of the cheapest mini, with components that are faster than the 799 model.
If you really wanted to get fancy, the components are hackintosh ready too. all youd need to add is one of these for OSX native wifi support (if you need it).

This one does include an OS:



PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4770 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $296.78 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H87N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $111.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial Ballistix 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $59.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Scorpio Black 500GB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.99 @ Newegg
Case | Apex MI-008 Mini ITX Tower Case w/250W Power Supply | $49.20 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $88.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $661.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-30 14:03 EDT-0400 |


Which aint too shabby, considering These (click the benchmarks at the top) are the benchmark for the 4770 vs the i7 3615QM they have in the mini now.... which is the 799 model. Its a smaller harddrive and a bigger enclosure.... but twice the ram and a faster processor, for about 150 less. Which like i said... aint to shabby for a headless rendernode.

Still, it's your call... I understand you pay for a convenience when you just buy the mini, no question. (and boy, is that thing sexy) but I enjoy putting together computers. and id hide a rendernode under my couch or somthing anyway.... *shrugs*

I didn't try the included Bluetooth/Wifi card, since I've read it doesn't work. Sorry. Instead I used a generic USB bluetooth receiver and this wifi card. I mainly went with the board for thunderbolt, figured it wouldn't hurt to be a bit future proof.

A USB adapter for WiFi is generally not going to be as good as something like a PCI one.

Currently, you have High Power Signal King 48DBI, which is USB. I'd recommend a dedicated wireless card that uses PCI/PCIe. Your motherboard (MSI Z87-GD65 GAMING) doesn't have a PCI port, just PCI Express, so you could get something like this. It comes with a generic antenna which may be good enough, but you could pair it with a better antenna in the future (benefit of dedicated wireless cards!).

Or, spend a bit more money (though you could save a lot of money elsewhere...) and get one that has multiple antennas, which can all be upgraded for fantastic wireless experience.

Chances are, any USB WiFi adapter you get will have a MediaTek (formerly Ralink) or Realtek chipset. Both of these companies publish OS X drivers, which work under Yosemite. Before you buy an adapter, check what chipset it has at [WikiDevi](http://www.wikidevi.com] and cross-reference with the drivers from MediaTek or Realtek's site.

FYI, USB WiFi adapters won't integrate with OS X's network picker, so you'll have to load a utility every time your computer boots in order to connect. Personally, that's enough to push me towards a PCIe card. I use an $15 TP-Link WN881ND that works with just a small modification to IONetworkingFamily. The commonly recommended card is the $36 TP-Link WDN4800, which is plug and play without any modifications.

I appreciate the help all the same.

Unfortunately I don't want to switch around all my kit for just one game, it could be my wireless adapter, but like I say I have no trouble with other games so I'm not sure. I'm currently suing a PCI adapter https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007GMPZ0A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1teamfight%20tactics

Disconnections are random, I can be fine for an hour then it will just happen, or it may happen twice in 20 minutes.

im connected via wifi with this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GMPZ0A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the CPU loads up to like 10% while just browsing

With your budget, I'd recommend this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007GMPZ0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1415795593&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40

Ideally, if you're talking about a desktop you should wire it via Ethernet cable. If that's not an option, I recommend going with a PCIe card. PCI and PCIe both deliver data faster than USB so they are a better choice, but you sacrifice the convenience of a USB adapter.

I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007GMPZ0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415887470&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

And it works flawlessy

for bluetooth, I just bought this. It worked right out of the box, all of my apple wireless keyboard/mouse/trackpad seem to work fine..... for wifi, I bought this. This also worked right out of the box, even before I ran multibeast.

I ordered one of these around a year ago. It has worked perfectly ever since.

Edit: Spelling

This one worked right out of the box, Mac OS even detected it during install.

I use this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007GMPZ0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478401173&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Tp+link+wifi+pcie

It's awesome.

Nice none of that amazon a10 gaming pc scam

Parts I recommend are :

CPU: i5 6500. It's a perfect CPU for the price. Rumoured to be better than some i7 ones

Ram: 16 gb ddr4. If you want 8 is fine but it's relatively cheap for 16 gb. Go for Kingston or g skill ripjaws.

Motherboard: standard lga1151 board. Matx is what I recommend. Spend like 80 ish dollars to 100 on this. Don't really know that much on this sorry.

Gpu: windforce gtx 1060 6gb. Beast card. If you have the cash upgrade to the 1070 is highly recommended it will smash every game at 1080p

Psu: corsair always reliable. Get a 650 watt one and you're set.

Hdd: western digital blue 1tb. Perfect mass storage for all your games and applications

Ssd. Samsung 850 240 gb. Use this to store you're operating system and crucial applications.

Case. Nzxt s340 elite perfect case with ample space to work with whilst also looking beast

Operating system (if you need one) windows 10 don't know the price

Some peripherals you may like

Logitech g502 mouse. Solid mouse for most games
Anker 4 port usb hub for extra connectivity

Also if you plan to use wifi get a wifi card from tplink. Here's one I use :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007GMPZ0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482097102&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=wifi+card&dpPl=1&dpID=41dj0fWrySL&ref=plSrch

Is cheap fast and reliable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GMPZ0A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

This is the card i have.

I ordered the operating system with the computer, and it hasn't arrived yet, all the physical components did, so I built it.

Also, that was a good catch. I have windows 7, so it wasn't a problem for me.

http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-802-11a-Express-Wireless-RNWD-N9003PCe/dp/B009VKON0S/ref=pd_cp_pc_0

I only looked for a couple minutes, but this is the only adapter I found that supports windows 8. I'm sure you could find others too, just look around a bit

I'm using The Rosewill N9003PCe N Speed card on 10.8.3 and it works perfectly.

Apart from getting one of the intel M2/mSATA wireless chips that include bluetooth and a PCI adapter for it, I don't think so. USB Bluetooth devices are generally pretty crappy, as far as I know Bluetooth is always a fairly laggy protocol.

Example of something that might work: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6

/edit: Just noticed that that card needs a USB connection from your mobo to power it. Still think that the extra antennae + the better quality controller may be able to reduce latency though.

It's a slot on your motherboard, the PCIe wireless card will usually go into a 1X slot which is the small ones with 2 slits. This is the one that have and it also has bluetooth. But to use the bluetooth, you need to connect the card to an INTERNAL USB header on the motherboard as well. If you don't have a need for bluetooth, then just get any other PCIe wireless network card.

I have two friends using this one No problems at all. Speeds are about 5-15% slower than wired at like 10-15 ft from router. Range is good but not like amazing. If you’re across the house you’ll lag.

Great motherboard, but it doesn't have wifi. If you need it you will need to buy a USB or PCIE wireless card. I would recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/?tag=pcpapi-20

Which of these PCIe wifi/bluetooth cards is better? I just need basic bluetooth/wifi functionality, so does it even matter which one I pick?

This gigabyte card is $34 and released in 2015, and 4 stars
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019JH89YI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3C4HWUE2979WZ&coliid=I7EYW68E4J3LR

This gigabyte card is $38 and released in 2014, and 4.5 stars.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3C4HWUE2979WZ&coliid=I216B86KN6BR17

Also, with this product I'll be able to sync my ps4 controller to my pc correct? Or will I have to purchase a bluetooth dongle?

If you absolutely need WiFi on your new PC, you've got two options:

• Get a mITX motherboard and use the onboard Wifi that 99% of those boards come with. (my personal choice, mITX makes such cute PCs)
  
  
• Get any other motherboard and add one of these to it, since a ATX or mATX motherboard with built-in WiFi is almost prohibitively expensive.

1. usually you want positive pressure in your case meaning either more intake fans or intake fans spinning faster than out take fans so just keep that in mind
   
   2)nope get whichever is cheaper
   
   3)yeah dont get that its super expensive...this is the most i would spend it has bluetooth and wifi if youre into that kind of thing lol
   
   also you dont need thermal paste your cooler will come with some

Do you need pci or pcie?

these work well for pcie https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6

This is a intel card ^, will work fine in windows 10

I only use mine with a Windows PC and I've had no problems. Before I got it my PC had no Bluetooth or Wifi so I picked up this. I built the computer myself last summer. Got the keyboard maybe 9 months ago and it's been rock solid. I did replace the case with one of these, though I've heard that should hurt not help the Bluetooth. Still been rock solid though.

This bad boy is in my friends build that I made her and she loves it! Plus it has an optional Bluetooth module included!

A great 802.11N Wi-fi card is the TP-Link TL-WN881ND for $20.

Edit: For Wireless-AC, the Gigabyte Wifi/Bluetooth combo card is pretty popular.

This one seems good and also gives you Bluetooth. I personally used a $50 Intel wifi/Bluetooth card and I love it.

Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.0/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UxehAbTW2X7JS

[Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I] (https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6)

I was going to say something similar about that card. My sister has it in her rig and its so trash, it constantly has errors and I have to wipe and reset drivers almost every month. It hardly works unless i am using 5ghz and a static IP. I have this and its a amazing how well it works. I get literally the exact same speed and reliability as my PC that is hard wired. Obviously you need a decent router as well, but my Nighthawk seems to be doing fine for the most part. If you are going to game wireless, I would highly recommend this card and getting a higher end AC router.

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6

There are some mobos that have WiFi built in, but they're not that common.

This card is good https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465797589&sr=8-2&keywords=gigabyte+wifi

If you're not running a mini itx system, then I would definitely get a PCIE adapter. I've had no luck with USB adapters. I bought the highest rated one on amazon, but get random moments where the controller isnt responsive and it just takes the last input.

Probably something like this would work, but it's a bit pricey as it's wifi+bt:

https://smile.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474506324&sr=8-2&keywords=pcie+bluetooth+adapter

On the other hand, DO NOT BUY THESE PRODUCTS:

https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-Bluetooth-150Mbps-Compatible-Classic/dp/B01F3WJOPG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474506240&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+bluetooth+adapter+aukey

https://smile.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474506214&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+bluetooth+adapter

Total noob here. I'm looking to purchase this motherboard for my first build. When I look in the specs, it says there are 4 USB 3.0 ports and 2 USB 2.0 ports. However, for the internal I/O connectors it only lists 1 USB 3.0 header and 2 USB 2.0 headers. Can anyone explain why there's 1 I/O connector for 4 USB 3.0s and 2 for 2 USB 2.0?

Also, I'm looking to have wireless internet capabilities and bluetooth to hook up bluetooth controllers. Would a card like thisdo both of these for me?

Exactly. I recommend getting either of these two cards.

If you want something cheap and plug and play, get this card for $20.

If you want something with better speeds and also want Bluetooth at the same time, get this one for $39.

It’s a network card adapter. Turns a mini itx
WiFi card in to a pci card

Similar to this

Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4YLYAbR1FYF41

Pc part picker, automatically searches for the lowest price at popular retailers, for instance the Ryzen 7 3700x is available at amazon but it’s a bit more at $387.

Another motherboard could have WiFi integrated in it, or an add-in card can supply WiFi capabilities

ASRock X570 PHANTOM GAMING 4 WIFI

Or an add- in card like:


Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card

I made one myself. Bought a PCIE wifi adapter off ebay and bought a Intel 9260 wifi chip off Amazon. Saved me 10-15$ plus I knew I had the latest best wifi chip in the market(at the time, now Intel has new wifi chips for wifi 6 called the ax series). The adapters itself don't mean much as long as they work and dissipate heat properly, it's the chip that you wanna look at. This is the most recommended one, but it uses an older Intel 8260 chip. It still is a very reliable chip, my friend has one and has high speeds with no ping spikes. Its main feature is its movable antenna because 90% of the markets wifi cards have antennas that stick out behind the PC. This is very bad as you get a very weak signal, especially on 5ghz(weak penetration signal). The reason I have 3-4 bars instead of 5 is cause I have antennas that stick out the back. Very good adapter though.

Thanks for the input, Is this the one?
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493232074&sr=8-1&keywords=Gigabyte+GC-WB867D-I+802.11ac+Bluetooth+and+WiFi+Adapter

hmm it went up in price since i last bought it, here ya go, Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Wx2IBb72B65MV

You can get one new for 40 bucks. Even supports bluetooth.

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501029468&sr=8-1&keywords=gigabyte+wifi+adapter

1. https://www.amazon.com/Intel-1000-Dual-Server-Adapter/dp/B000BMZHX2 or similar
   
2. Hypervisor (ESXi, Xen or KVM) with your network gateway as a VM, perhaps pfSense or Sophos UTM Home Edition
   
   This gives you the most flexibility and you can spin up any VM you want to add functionality, test things or even just for learning.
   
   Also I would axe the GTX960 for sure. Unneeded heat and power usage. Does the motherboard have onboard video?

thank you for your incredibly detailed response. I will look into this tonight. Our modem only has one port out so I don't want our network to go down during the day.
Your second point we have been thinking about replacing the router with a pfSense box, but I have not been able to convince people that the router may be the problem. This will hopefully help me convince them. Can you recommend any 2 port Gb cards? I was looking at this one
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BMZHX2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3O9QUPXR9L1VT&coliid=IJ4NGVGDPSEAH
But I am not sure if it is beefy enough and we should be going with a more expensive one.

That's a 64 bit PCI-X card, which might not work in the 32 bit PCI slot on that board. You could use the onboard Realtek as LAN and an Intel NIC as WAN (which I've done, with minimal performance/compatibility issues).

If you had a setup with a PCIe slot, I'd point you to this card.

The tp-link is in fact based on a Realtek chip. So that's likely your problem. A dual-port Intel will probably help out greatly and can be had relatively cheaply online. This is one that you can get dead cheap and will work great with PFSense.

Thing about Realteks I've noticed with PFSense is that the failures are not always noticeable in any of the dashboards, and tend to be "creeping" issues rather than immediate and obvious failures. It seems to my mind that the Realtek is an easy replacement that should probably be in your troubleshooting future.

Hope that helps :)

I like my sound card, which sounds 10x better than the default realtek built into most motherboards. This is the one I use https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-z

I also bought a 2 port Intel 1000 Pro NIC to replace the realtek on board NIC in the past. Just make sure you buy one that uses PCI-e and not PCI. Luckily the motherboards I've used recently have built in Intel NIC's.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMZHX2

If you're also looking for something to do with 5.25 drive bays (if you have them) some nice drawers are great for storing flash drives, screws, SD cards and that sort of thing.
https://www.amazon.com/EverCool-Drive-Storage-Drawer-Molding/dp/B00GJVBH88

I bought a refurbished hp 8300 that has 8GB or RAM and an intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz Quad-Core -- that CPU has AES-NI which means that if you want to do any sort of encryption (like run a VPN or do active MitM on network traffic) you'll be able to do it easily.

The issues are that the refurb doesn't have 2 ethernet ports and no ssd. So I bought an 120GB ssd and a pci-e dual port and it's perfect.

hp 8300

dual Gbit ethernet

ssd

honestly for less than 300 bucks if you can do better let me know.

I've had zero problems over the years using pfsense (originally m0n0wall) with various pieces of equipment. If the uptime isn't listed in hundreds of days, the hardware (or driver support) isn't reliable! I started with an "ancient-even-back-then" Pentium 233Mhz MMX and a few bits of support kit (Linksys PCI NICs, IDE to CF adapter, ISA VGA card in case I needed direct access for some reason). Couldn't ever bear to throw it away, pretty sure it would only need a new AT power supply to put back in service: http://i.imgur.com/obsY5Su.jpg

So, the first step is starting with something reliable as a base. An old LGA775 sounds perfect! Don't go nuts trying to find dual integrated Intel gigabit NICs or whatever...unless maybe you're trying to start a small WISP or something! I believe most "problems" would stem from regularly pushing consumer equipment to the edge of their maximum throughput: most folks are not likely to do that (otherwise they'll likely have the budget for the proper hardware).

For example: I used the built-in adapter because I'm cheap and lazy, and knew I might need to swap it out...but it's never given a bit of trouble so far (knock on wood). For reference, the two pieces I'm currently pushing data through without issue (~119 day uptime at the moment (~1.2TB down, ~250GB up), ~500-1000 active connection on average, load average is almost always measured as 0.0x):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JB40498 (Realtek 8111GR I think)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CY0P7G (Intel 82574L I think)

I have found that others recommended this (never used myself):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMZHX2

So question, what are you running? I know elsewhere in the thread you were debating. The reason I ask is because Freenas has recommended hardware and esp since you're spending around 1k, it might be better to go with the guide.

That being said, I'll comment on your parts (assuming you're gonna run some sort of desktop/server os). Oh and I'll go in reverse order (don't ask why, I'm weird).

1. NIC - So if you want to completely save money, you will have the mobo nic, the intel one I got is $50 and has hardware teaming which is handy since windows 8.1 doesn't support it.
   
   
2. I'm not an expert on powersupplies, but that unit has good reviews, my only concern is whether or not 450 is enough.
   
   
3. I'm not a super huge fan of mini-itx since smaller area, less room for expansion drives, but mostly a preference thing.
   
   
4. Reds are good drives, but for about $20 more, you can get the 3tb ones.
   
   
5. If you're running freenas, more ram = better. Otherwise, 8 isn't bad and that particular model has decent reviews.
   
   
6. Mobo looks good
   
   
7. Cpu looks good
   
   Again, I'm not knowledgeable about Freenas, so you may want to check out their recommendations if you're thinking about running that.
   
   Also, keep checking out newegg's combos, before you buy, you can find steals occasionally.

I bought this 4 port hp nic, HP NC364T https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0NX3G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'm using Macvtap pass through with my guest for the single port and virtio drivers. I've been pretty happy with the performance. I didn't have the choice of passing through the whole card with my Mobo, but honestly you won't see a difference.

It's an Intel chip on the nic.

All of $38 off Amazon to get a HP branded quad port nic which is really a genuine Intel unit in HP clothing. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0NX3G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500065490&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70

Any particular reason to use that specific card? I recently purchased this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0NX3G/ (Apparently a PCIE1.0 card as per comments in one thread). It worked in windows when I initially set up the machine for testing ( Ryzen 1700+B450) . I will be setting up proxmox tomorrow or by end of week and will be able to comment.

I have a TS440 and 2 TS140's, but the TS440 is my favorite by far. It does not come with caddies but I got mine here for $15: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T4SZ720?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

I also got this 4 port NIC for it: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0NX3G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 and it has worked great.

Only negative with the TS440 is that it is louder than my TS140's, but still a manageable level. And I love having the hot swappable drives. Maybe someone can chime in about running ESXi on it, I have only used Hyper-V on mine.

http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Gigabit-Network-Adapter-EXPI9301CTBLK/dp/B001CY0P7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397690097&sr=8-1&keywords=NIC+intel+PCI+express

Never really offered advice on this so I'm not sure if my setup Is a budget build.

I had an old PC with an i3 6100 and 8GB RAM and a 250GB HDD. I bought an Intel Gigabit CT PCI-E Network Adapter EXPI9301CTBLK for $27 and installed it in the pc.

Then I burned a free copy of pfsense
and installed it to the computer. Pfsense is an open source router/firewall operating system. I turned my old pc into a router.

I bought a TP link 5 port network switch for 25 dollars.

I needed the switch so I could connect an access point to my router.

Last, I needed an access point. I had a linksys e1200 wireless router running tomato on it but I had money left over so I spent 75 dollars on a Ubiquiti unifi 802.11AC access point

That AP was the best thing I've ever bought. When you've had nothing but linksys or netgear wireless routers on your home network, you get used to having to reboot your router every day. At one point it got so bad that I had to make a script to reboot my router every time it lost Internet connectivity. I haven't rebooted my new AP in 9 months and I haven't had any performance loss.

 

I didn't need to invest in the network card for my pc because it had on board ethernet. I also didn't need to invest in the AP since I already had a linksys e1200. I only needed the switch to connect my AP.

Without those two purchases, my build cost 25 dollars. With the ap and network card(emphasizing that they weren't essential, just wanted) it cost me $125.

 

When I search on amazon "gaming router" they cost anywhere from 70 - 200 dollars so I would consider this a very cost effective build.

 

I get 50ms ping on League of Legends.

My speedtest.net results are 1ms ping, 65mbps download and 11mbps upload.

*I guess If you don't have an old PC you don't use this becomes more costly.

**Last update. I just searched Craigslist for used computers. I found dozens of used computers that have an Intel pentium 4 @ 3ghz or something similar, with 2-4GB RAM and a 100gb hard drive. The most expensive I saw was 100 dollars. The cheapest I saw was 40 dollars. If you don't have an old PC sitting around doing nothing, pick one up from,Craigslist for 40 bucks those specs will easily suffice considering routers run 8mb flash memory and 300mhz processors.

Yeah I didn't choose the Killer card, will look into the Intel CT. Would this work: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Gigabit-Network-Adapter-EXPI9301CTBLK/dp/B001CY0P7G

Intel is the best from personal experience

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CY0P7G/

[This ](http://www.Intel.com/ Gigabit CT PCI-E Network Adapter EXPI9301CTBLK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CY0P7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UDQ7yb77YGF9H) is what I switched to. It fixed all my issues with moving data to my server. No more drops to zero it stays constant

I don't buy crap, but when the cables get used and transported every single day they wear out. Also I tried it with both the bluetooth built into my Asus z390 motherboard, and with a network card that used bluetooth, specifically the Gigabyte one here (https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Gigabit-Network-Adapter-EXPI9301CTBLK/dp/B001CY0P7G) that uses Intel like you suggest. So please don't patronize me on this issue, I've done the research. Here are three separate threads about this issue. I tried different controllers, updating firmware on the controllers, drivers, etc.

Curb the condescension please.

https://www.tenforums.com/gaming/74590-xbox-one-bluetooth-controller-having-issues.html

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/xbox-one-s-controller-causing-whole-pc-to-lag.3300152/

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/xbox/forum/xba_console/xbox-one-controller-input-lag/5d083885-fe4e-45ad-a0c4-7d174f39ef4a

2 of these http://smile.amazon.com/Intel-Gigabit-Network-Adapter-EXPI9301CTBLK/dp/B001CY0P7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425686682&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+nic+pci

I have, but I'm from India, and most are too expensive! Consider this board for example. It costs ₹16K. For about ₹10K, I can get 10 seperate Intel NICs like this one and a couple of PCI extensions which will cost about ₹2K more, but I have the option of throwing away (or fixing) a damaged NIC if and when the situation arises. If I were to swapout the intel NICs for TP Link gigabit NICs, then the price comes down even further!

But the point stands, that I don't know enough about these systems to judge properly. Hence, this post.

Could building a NIC even be an option?

> I also have a theory that the guy who I rent the appartment from is blocking games for his kids

>When I dc I get dc’d from discord and everything.

It's more likely he's using a very old router. The solution may be as simple as pushing a firmware update to your router.

If he was blocking ports, you wouldn't be getting responses from these servers at all. I suppose it's also possible he is using some QoS (Quality of Service) settings on his router that may be trashing your connection until it just seizes up. https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/change-your-routers-quality-of-service-qos-settings-how-to

Are you being disconnected every time, or does the problem go away after your first log in and crash? Either way, if you're renting a room you should start with asking your landlord if he's doing these things.

Also are you on wireless? Update your network card drivers. If your NIC is on your motherboard, it may be going bad. Consider grabbing a new one and connecting it via PCIE.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-PCI-Express-TG-3468/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1510694575&sr=8-6&keywords=NIC&dpID=41xnIpaXJfL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I'm not saying this to bash you, but I really wish gamers would stop acting like hardware bans are the perfect solution to cheaters. There's a reason that's the general reply, because it's true.

>its extremely difficult and very expensive

This is simply not true at all. I can't give specific names from my time working in the game industry, but almost every studio agrees they're a waste of time to even implement. The amount of time it takes for a team of developers to implement a system that not only detects these cheats, but then also hardware bans the user is far greater than the time it takes for the cheater to google "how to spoof hardware ID". You don't even have to replace parts anymore, there's software that will do all of it for you. Almost all of these acronyms you're throwing out (which everyone just calls hardware bans) can be fixed with spoofing software, and worst case, a new $12 network card for those that can't be spoofed.

>A cheater will stop returning when he realizes "Oh shit, not only do I have to spend x amount of dollars to be able to access this product, NOW I have to buy the product.

Maybe 10-15 years ago, but also not true at all. Once again if you google "how to spoof hardware ID" or similar you'll see tons of "fixes" and cheap solutions. Back in the day when people didn't post this kind of stuff openly on the internet, sure it was harder to cheat and avoid hardware bans. It's so easy to do now it's practically a joke.

Do you really think spending money is the deterrent for these cheaters? Almost every single one of them knows that they will probably get banned at some point using them. They've practically accepted that fact once they load up the cheats. I would like you to find me anybody that uses hacks, has been banned for hacks, and then acts genuinely surprised by this. They all know it's coming and they all know if they want to keep playing after they'll have to spend more money.

>I just want BSG to actually be more vocal about this and as a business, present us with some solutions or a roadmap or something to help fight these cheaters.

I really wish I wasn't tearing your post apart, but honestly they should not do this at all, in relation to cheating. No game studio would ever do such a stupid thing. Why would you tell the public when you're going to be fixing cheats?

Really, think about it.

If I gave the community an incredibly vague roadmap even, and it said "Q3 2019 anti-cheat". That's it, that's all it says. Then the cheat makers know to look at what files have changed during a certain time period, Q3 2019. This gives them a roadmap for where they can exploit, because you're showing them what was vulnerable before. If they know what was vulnerable before, then they know what to look for in other places. You don't give cheat makers any information at all.

Contrary to this subreddit's belief Nikita has given us enough information. He has acknowledged that cheating is a problem, both in the podcasts and some reddit posts, and has even said that they're looking at a few 3rd party solutions. One of which being BattlEye. I would argue that going as far as stating which anti-cheat platforms you're looking at using is also a bad move until it's implemented and shipped.

Nobody is denying that cheaters are a problem, but don't ever think that a hardware ban is the best solution. It is the furthest thing from the best solution in 2019 and has been that way for at least 5-10 years now.

> the only logical explanation would be some issue with my CPU, because thats the only PC part that I didnt change in the past 2 years

So you've changed motherboards but kept the same CPU? The most likely culprit if you've tried everything else is your motherboards NIC and/or it's drivers. You could try a PCIe (or PCI if you have a legacy PCI connector) Network Card as a last resort: https://www.amazon.de/TP-Link-TG-3468-Netzwerk-frustfreie-Verpackung/dp/B003CFATNI

Here is an internal Ethernet adapter that should work for you; but you will have to have it installed. And I would recommend using an Internal over a USB based one as a more long-term fix.

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Ethernet-supported/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2/136-1763447-5920729?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003CFATNI&pd_rd_r=c98c3ede-9490-4a39-a853-6fc9e163a55f&pd_rd_w=CpbjS&pd_rd_wg=FJIlV&pf_rd_p=479b6a22-70ae-47a0-9700-731033f96ce8&pf_rd_r=EMNC59JFK8EVYDRB8364&psc=1&refRID=EMNC59JFK8EVYDRB8364

ok thanks. is the intel recommendation because of stability or quality of the parts? or do other cards run into compatibility issues?

this is the card i was going to buy: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TG-3468-Gigabit-Express-Network/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495207316&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+card

Because spending $4 more and getting a card from a reputable manufacturer with a warranty isn't important. The chinese card is only $7.44 on ebay.

I'd try not to go cheap on this part unless you have to. A decent network card will last. This TP-Link card is a good value buy.

It's rare to see an on-board NIC die without lightning involved (your router would be dead). I might have missed something.

like this

The easiest way to check is to see if your x2 PCIe lane lines up with a slot on your case the same way the x16 lane does.

If it does, I'd suggest you buy a shorter adapter than that one that's mostly out of the way of the cooler.

If the PC is meeting your needs other than the network speed, you could put a new ethernet card in there. If you have an open PCI-Express slot pick up a gigabit card and give that a try. Otherwise there is the option to buy a USB 2.0 gigabit ethernet adapter. You won't ever get close to gigabit speeds witht that, but you should be able to hit 200mbps

Ah, your board has them pain in the ass Qualcomm Atheros Ethernet controllers that Linux hates.

Let me see what I can come up with. It may be a bit since I'm at work currently.

If I can make a recommendation for long term use, grab you a cheap Intel or RealTek based Ethernet PCI-e Gigabit card off amazon for like $15 and be done with it. It's much less painful if you ever want to switch distros because it'll be plug and play.

Here is the one I've used many a times: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cjDTCbH1GQW35

PCI-X - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TG-3269-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Network/dp/B0034CSUZ8

PCIe - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TG-3468-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Express/dp/B003CFATNI/

You probably need PCIe. It will probably be better than wireless, especially if you have gigabit LAN to all your devices.

Believe it or not, they make nic add on cards. Usually 10-20$

Here u go.
TP-LINK TG-3468 10/100/1000Mbps Gigabit PCI Express Network Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_cqybvb17ADZV0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_cqybvb17ADZV0

TP-Link N300 Wireless PCI-Express Adapter (TL-WN881ND) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_QQhFT2u3MdxmJ

This card works great and I had no problems installing it. The speeds are just as fast as specified. TP link also have a lower speed card for less. This shouldn't affect latency though which is what you really care about for gaming.

For PC shops, I know of Neo, and Ender Computers. Ender has a location in North Liberty, and a couple in CR. If you're heading up to CR, there's also Barbs. I think the rest of them have closed up though.

Do you not want to wait for it? Are you needing PCIe, PCI? It sounds like USB won't work for you.

N300 PCIe (only a few bucks more than the N150)
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI $18.99

N150 PCI (~$10 cheaper than the N300 PCI)
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI $13.74

Those could be in your hands wednesday with a free Amazon Prime trial.

+1 for PCI

I game and have never had problems connecting unless it was ISP side (boo comcast). I also stream Netflix and Amazon without any signal issues.

I use [this PCI-E adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104552&sr=8-2&keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) with good results. They also make regular [PCI] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN751ND-Wireless-Adapter-Low-profile/dp/B005FUGPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104552&sr=8-4&keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) depending on what you have available. I'm sure the Rosewill one is quite good too.

I also picked up something similar to [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-ANT2405C-Desktop-Omni-directional-Antenna/dp/B001VEAI74/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104686&sr=8-11&keywords=tp-link+antenna) to help with my signal, since my room is quite far from my router. It will give you some flexibility on your antenna placement, and gave me a huge boost in signal.

For your purposes either would probably work but I prefer having the cleaner look of a PCI card and I'm under the assumption that there is better power/bandwith going through PCI. If you do go with USB, I suggest something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104921&sr=8-14&keywords=usb+wifi) where you can add on an optional antenna if you have signal issues.

Lots of people get whichever motherboard fits their needs, and pick up PCI cards or USB dongles after.

PCI cards are generally better as they have antennae and can reach higher speeds. Here's a good one

However, with a mini itx build you may not have a PCI slot available, in which case you can get a USB dongle or wifi enabled motherboard. You shouldn't sacrifice features for wifi though.

It'll just go under my desk.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397116208&sr=1-2&keywords=wifi+card+for+desktop


I just put this in my cart. Will this be difficult for a new user to install?

No it will not.

You said you have a graphics card. That is in the PCIx16 slot. You need a wireless card that will fit in the PCIe slot.

Search on Amazon (or wherever) for Wireless PCIe adapter. Notice how there are less gold pins on the one I linked above? You need one that looks like that (again search for Wireless PCIe adapter).

Here is the one that you linked but in a PCIe version: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463158710&sr=1-2&keywords=wireless+pcie

Here's a cheaper one: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407336202&sr=8-1&keywords=TP-LINK+TL-WN881ND

I used to use a PCI Express Wifi card, which worked well enough. You can also get a usb wifi dongle. Either should work without much issue on both Windows or Linux.

A motherboard with integrated wifi would work fine too. It just depends on what's most price efficient for you. Normally motherboards with the integrated wifi are a bit more expensive, but I would think the difference between buying a wifi-less motherboard along with some sort of wifi accessory and a wifi integrated motherboard is negligible.

I would recommend this one, it’s great(I have it personally) and it’s on sale for only $15. Does not have 5ghz, but based on what you said i don’t think you’ll need it:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter&qid=1564180751&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=tp+link+wifi+a&sr=8-6

So there's this guy for $15 on Amazon after a coupon, up to 300 Mbps (37.5 MB/s) but can only work on your 2.4 GHz WiFi. What you linked is 2.4 or 5 GHz, and up to 800+ Mbps, or over 100 MB/s. Basically it depends on what sort of internet you guys have and how many devices are on your WiFi. Honestly the cheaper one will most likely be enough if all your mom does is online banking and light web browsing. Even for gaming/streaming stuff it would be fine.

You can also consider a PCIe Ethernet port like this to give you the same functionality that your broken Ethernet port would have.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1494869170&sr=1-4&keywords=wifi+card

This is the card I used for a while. Works great. I do recommend some external antennae though, because they will help, but are definitely not necessary.

Do you know how many Mbps upload/download you have to your home?

It may not be an issue then. Just try out the dongle and if you feel it is giving you issues, you have 3 options.

1. Buy a better WIFI USB Dongle
   
   
2. Buy a PCI-E or any PCI wifi card.
   Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494026223&sr=1-1&keywords=TP-Link+PCIE
   
   
3. Purchase Powerline adapters.
   Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494026176&sr=8-1&keywords=TP-Link+AV500+Nano+Powerline+Adapter+Starter+Kit%2C+up+to+500Mbps+%28TL-PA4010KIT%29

Would this work for this issue? My son has an IBUYPOWER computer that is running wifi (steam) like garbage. I'm a little unsure of what to do

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542148853&sr=1-6&keywords=tp-link+wifi

If you're still looking, if you order $35 worth of stuff on Amazon, This will ship to you tomorrow for free.

If your motherboard came with wifi antennas, it has wifi... With that said, yours doesn't have wifi. Also, I honestly recommend going wired. It's more reliable but if you really need one, here's one...

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B0079XWMEI/

Ah, sorry I forgot to answer this one. It would need to be a PCI-e WIFI card such as:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492130988&sr=1-1&keywords=pci-e+wifi

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tTdqqs/gigabyte-wireless-network-card-gcwb867di

Something like this:

TP-LINK TL-WN881ND Wireless N300 PCI Express Adapter

A USB network device would be a USB Dongle.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_aYmwyb1MGY9E6

At $20 retail I think you're unlikely to find anything here shipped for cheaper.

Just build any PC you want under your budget and add one of this [TP Link Wifi Adapter (15$)] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B0079XWMEI)

You just need a free PCIE Slot on your motherboard.
No need to find a mobo with built in wifi IMO.

Looks awesome, the Twin Frozr is so quiet, they're awesome cards. One suggestion though is to get a different network adapter like this instead of a crappy Rosewill.

It has 2 PCI slots that works with wireless cards. Wireless cards don't need the same connection as a graphics card.

For example, this one should work with your motherboard: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0079XWMEI/ref=psd_mlt_nbc_B007GMPZ0A_pb

This should do a pretty dang good job.

I have this wifi card: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XWMEI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

No issues at all, and doesn't take up a usb slot and block another like the usb one i had previously. Other than that the build seems pretty solid, though you could switch to a EVGA 600b psu for barely any more money and have 600w instead of 500w. The CX series has a bad reputation, though you'd still probably be fine either way.

http://de.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-100b10600kr

[usb wifi adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EQT0YK2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1413982857&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40)

pcie wifi adapter

This is what I use.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0079XWMEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415745419&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

It plugs into the mother board and has 2 screw on antennas that come out the back and angle to any desired direction. It has been extremely reliable for me

> NETGEAR N600 Dual Band N Adaptor

It's a USB adapter... Get a PCIe Adaptor if you can. TPLINK This is a favorite of mine it's not expensive and works really well.

I have personally been using This card(TL-WDN4800) by TP-Link for years with no issues.

Its the best selling wifi card on amazon, and has been for quite some time. Covers all wireless speeds up to Wireless-N latest standards.

There is also another model that covers up to Wireless-AC if you really need that kind of speed. (Doubtful, unless you are building your own router, or are in a severely congested network)


[unsure if you meant desktop or laptop PCI]

What one are you using now? If it's a name brand one and your previous one was also a good brand there could be an issue with your USB ports.

Assuming you're on a desktop as you are using wireless adaptors I would recommend a PCI-E wifi card this one is what I use and is really good, never had an issue with it.

If you're US/Europe find it on your local Amazon rather than Amazon UK.

That is a pretty solid build, congrats. These are my feedbacks:

The only thing that stands out negatively is the USB WiFi adapter. There's no need for a USB card when you can have a PCI-E card. I suggest this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GMPZ0A

You may not need the dual band but trust me, it's handy and the difference in price makes it worthy, since with that card you'll be future proof even if you get Google Fiber.

I'd personally get a better case. The 200R is a good case, don't get me wrong, but with a budget like that I'd get something better: the Cooler Master 690 III for example, which is pretty much the best mid tower case available on the market:

http://pcpartpicker.com/mr/ncixus/cooler-master-case-cms693kkn1

I also have no experience with EVGA PSUs. However I know that the best PSU manufacter on the market is SeaSonic. Some PSU manufacters buy SeaSonic parts and use them for their PSUs. I don't know if EVGA does it, but XFX is one of them, and I'd get this PSU:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5HF0KU/?tag=pcpapi-20

650W, Fully Modular, Gold Certified, same price as yours.

This depends on your habit but you could save on the Optical Drive (who uses DVDs anymore?), and if you don't want to you could get a OD from an old build/an old PC since as long as it's a SATA drive it'll be fine.

I'd also recommend Windows 8 instead of Windows 7 since it's SSD optimized and it boots a lot faster. You don't have to use the Start Menu if you don't want to, or you can use it to store your desktop applications like I do.

The rest of the build is fine to me, congrats on your rig man.

Awesome. I'll be happy so long as I can get at least 720p @30fps. I'm planning on buying this adapter to go with it, so it'd be sweet if the 5Ghz connection helps even more. Thanks for the help!

/r/buildapc

1. Depends on budget and what you are going for. A price drop of $50 or less isn't the biggest deal to so people. You could always build and run on integrated graphics till you are ready for the GPU. Prices may slightly come down when items stop selling out instantly.
   
   
2. Most motherboards will have built in Ethernet port. Some will have built in WiFi adapters. If one doesn't you can purchase one. WiFi adapters that are work on both 2.4 and 5 Ghz are all you need. I use this https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1466008313&sr=1-1&keywords=wifi+adapter+pci
   
   
3. Slightly. Some manufacturers have better customer service. Some cards have slightly better cooling capabilities and a pre-applied overclock.
   For example EVGA uses a few different tiers on their cards that go up in price as you move through the tiers.
   If overclocking isn't something you are that interested in then price and noise is something you should factor in. Some cards are going to be louder than others so you should read reviews before dropping a few hundred on a card.
   

If your gonna be gaming at 1080p you might want to switch to the AMD RX 480 because your motherboard is AMD optimized for Crossfire and not Nvidia SLI if you so choose to run two cards in the future.

The RX 480 runs better, if not the same, performance as the GTX 970 and costs $200 for the 4GB model, which saves you $55.


WiFi Adapter

Monitor #1

Monitor #2; This is my monitor and it works great but costs $30 more

Gaming Mouse

If it's a desktop get a pci or pci-e adapter like this or this. The more expensive ones will have better range/speed

Yes you will need a network adapter, http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
That is the #1 on amazon.
Although might I suggest getting a better motherboard with the rest of your left over budget? The one you have is good, and will do the job, but for relatively not much more, you can get one with many more options available to you for the future.

BTW, something also to think about, mouse, and keyboard, what type are you going to use? I mean, my thinking is, why buy a sports car (gaming PC) but have seats like a school bus. A cheap mouse and keyboard get the job done perfectly well, but you can get some pretty nice ones (let's be honest, we like to spoil ourselves).

Warning: THIS IS BUILDAPC, where we will always, even by accident, try to convince you "Hey if you spent just a LITTLE bit more, it would be so much better for you!"
I ended up planning my build with a 660, to a 760, and now I am debating if I NEED a 770 just because everyone else is getting one XD.

Yes. Your motherboard doesn't have an integrated wifi card.

You can either get a PCI-e card like this or a USB adapter like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GMPZ0A/?tag=pcpapi-20

• This one from tp-link is pretty much the best you can get, it connects to pci-e x1, which is the smallest pci lane on that motherboard, so it can easily be slotted in with the graphics card taking up 2 other lanes
  
• Not particularly, plenty of room for storage expansion, 4 pci expansion bays (so enough for the 2 slot graphics card, 1 slot pci-e wireless adapter and still one left for something in a left over pci lane). They're only a downside for serious enthusiast builds with triple/quad sli, or sound cards and raid cards and huge cpu coolers etc.
  
• that is the same harddrive essentially, just with a bigger cache, which means it would be slightly faster. personally I go for whatever's cheapest. I assume that the harddrive quality from aria is fine, I've only ever heard about problems with files still being on a new harddrive bought from overclockersuk.
  
• I chose that one since it's a mechanical keyboard, which are generally people's choice in a high budget build. It could certainly be changed for this, or even cheaper this. Membrane keyboards are still fine to use, I'm currently using one and have personally never used a mechanical
  
• You'll need a screwdriver, but that's about it. Just be sure to build on a non conductive surface, and don't be standing on carpet. If you're happy with this build then you should head over to /r/buildapc for the others of there to give it a look over, and to ask any questions.

Before you do that, double-check that that's what the Mac is doing. Hold the Option key and click on the WiFi logo at the top of the screen- when the menu pops down, it'll have additional information about your connection. Look for the item labeled "Channel"; it'll have a channel number and then tell you what band it's in-- either 2.4GHz or 5GHz.

If the Mac is connecting on 5GHz, then it's safe to say that you've simply got some bad interference on the 2.4GHz band. If not, it's likely that the cheap adapter you got for your PC is defective (or simply really crappy to start out with).

Either way, this adapter should be a great investment and should give you fantastic wireless performance.

Strange: that is a decent card:

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B007GMPZ0A

18 feet distance, and only one wall? Made out of what, crystallized copper?

You are very tech savvy (inSSIDer! Hooray), and have done your homework. I do notice someone else on channel 1, no SSID: try channel 6? Since someone is on 11?

Drivers: you did find current drivers? What is the date? And you downloaded the correct version? SOHO networking companies have a bad habit of naming something the HyperTronBeam 4800, then come out with "version 2" which is completely different, and sucks (Linksys is famous for this). Version of your card?

And that copper wall: any idea what's in it? Pipes? Wires? Chickenwire? (for plaster?)

Your modem/router may be the weak link.

Will this: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=41dj0fWrySL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR111%2C135_&refRID=YHFQ3VQNYCQTPGR53HGJ and this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=s9_cartx_gw_g147_i2_r?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=6KKX6PSFMMM7CWA6J6EF&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2443077102&pf_rd_i=desktop work in my computer? (https://www.asus.com/ca-en/Tower-PCs/M51AC/overview/)

PS: I know, prebuilt, I have since upgraded parts slowly from this but still have the same motherboard.

Not expensive at all. It sucks that a premium laptop comes with such a total crap card.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QJQF4Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've never used one of those but I can't imagine that its better than an external option since the case probably blocks some of the signal.

Not sure if the prices are different where you are:
PCIe AC1200 version for $25

USB wifi adapters tend to work fine too IMO as long as its a reputable brand.

I use this one for one of my devices. $13 for AC600

But its a bit slower than others on the market like this AC1200 for $22

In the end do what you would like. Many people are still using the N protocol just fine, some are using even older than that. It all depends on your use case.

Thanks for the info. So would this do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NFMSGGR/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Welcome fellow Singaporean! I got some local deals for you to save some money toochange the wireless card to TP-LINK AC1200

so, there's no case in there but there's a reseller for a chinese case on carousell that seems pretty good.X2-Firebase MATX

and you can get a psu from simlim with 500w for SG 59i'm looking at the FSP hyper 500w from dynacore( they're a OEM brand, so it should be fine)

EDIT: forgot to add to upgrade the PSU to something more reputable as soon as you can.

i think this fits your budget?

yep! very helpful, so your network is pretty fast, here’s a network card that will plug into your motherboard directly. it’s rated for up 300mbps via 2.4ghz connection, and up to 800mbps iirc at 5ghz wifi (if you have it, if not disregard that part.)
anyways you’ll be able to utilize all the bandwidth you have, so your pc won’t be a connectivity bottleneck

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Archer-T4E-Beamforming-Technology/dp/B07NFMSGGR/ref=asc_df_B07NFMSGGR/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341795557422&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7504447908956561405&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001384&hvtargid=pla-662850348214&psc=1

It's this one, sorry I guess theres 2 products with the same name.

TP-Link AC1200 PCIe Wireless Wifi PCIe Card | 2.4G/5G Dual Band Wireless PCI Express Adapter | Low Profile, Long Range Beamforming Heat Sink Technology | Supports Windows 10/8.1/8/7/XP (Archer T4E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NFMSGGR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dre2DbPCZEZ9W

This is what I came up with. Normally, I would recommend a Ryzen 5 3600 and a 5700xt for a $1000 gaming build but as you will be doing some video editing, the Ryzen 7 2700x is probably a better choice as it has a higher core/thread count meaning it will do better in video editing and other productivity tasks, and it is still pretty good for gaming. If you want, you could always swap it out for the 3600 if you're after better gaming performance. Other than that, the 5700xt should be able to handle VR games like beat saber just fine.

As for on board wifi, there aren't too many options in the micro-atx market. I would recommend purchasing a pcie wifi adapter as they aren't too expensive and deliver the same performance you would get on a motherboard with wifi. Here's one I found on amazon for less than £30.

Good luck with your build :)

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor | $159.00 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte B450 AORUS M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $69.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $79.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $82.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $37.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB PULSE Video Card | $412.98 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $49.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair TXM Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $982.92
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $962.92
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-30 16:21 EST-0500 |

A wireless adapter, yes. If your connection is up to 300Mbps: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Chh9TW/tp-link-wireless-network-card-tlwn881nd

If up to 1.2Gbps: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NFMSGGR?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

As for the sound card, it'll come embedded in the motherboard.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B07NFMSGGR/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=tplink%2Bwifi%2Badapter&qid=1574567540&sprefix=tplink%2Bwi&sr=8-14&th=1&psc=1

Depending on the speed of internet you pay for, the AC version supports higher speeds, but is unnecessary if your speed isn't higher than 300MB/s

My current WiFi adapter in my computer will only connect to my schools crap WiFi on 2.4Ghz and I found out the problem is that I need an adapter that can read/handle 5Ghz and both of these say they do but I don’t know the difference between them and was wanting to see if it’s worth getting the more expensive one (Tp-link ac1300)

card one ac1200

card two Tp-link 1300

I've used this one for 6 months. It's been great and super cheap. I used to use a range extender. It was the cause of my problems. Upgraded my router and card and it's been flawless.

TP-Link AC1200 PCIe Wireless Wifi PCIe Card
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NFMSGGR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ezGRDbEMW4EQN

Make sure you get a 5ghz capable card. I recommend this:

TP-Link AC1200 PCIe Wireless Wifi PCIe Card | 2.4G/5G Dual Band Wireless PCI Express Adapter | Low Profile, Long Range Beamforming Heat Sink Technology | Supports Windows 10/8.1/8/7/XP (Archer T4E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NFMSGGR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JVABDbF6MDERZ

Thanks, that would be good to know. I got the Intel AC9260.

Mother of God...


Yep, 5GHz is going to be your only choice. Archer C7 is a good call for a router.

When you say dongle I assume you mean USB? PCI-e would be a better call if you have a slot. This guy for instance: https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-Beamforming-Technology-Archer-T4E/dp/B07NFMSGGR/

This should be a good option but I would spend a little extra money and get this this. TP-Link is usually the most consistent in budget options and those have good specs.

https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B450M-DS3H-rev-10/sp#sp

Gigabyte didn't list it as included, but expansion cards are available like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Beamforming-Technology-Archer-T4E/dp/B07NFMSGGR

I recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-ac600Mbps-Wireless-External-10-6-10-13/dp/B01CCMUN8C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Wireless+USB&qid=1562678967&s=gateway&sr=8-4 For USB, And this: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Beamforming-Technology-Archer-T4E/dp/B07NFMSGGR/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=pcie+wifi+card&qid=1562679043&s=gateway&sprefix=PCI&sr=8-5 For PCI-E

I don't know what "tight budget" would mean for you, but some like this:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T6E-Wireless-Technology/dp/B016K0896K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pcie+wifi+card&qid=1564638566&s=gateway&sr=8-3 Archer T6E - $32.99

And

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Beamforming-Technology-Archer-T4E/dp/B07NFMSGGR/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=pcie+wifi+card&qid=1564638566&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-19 TP Link AC 1200: $23.99

> Do I need a wireless card? a bluetooth card or a sound card?

Some higher end motherboards come with built in WiFi but most do not. So yes you'll probably need a wireless card. You don't really need bluetooth unless it's something you want on your PC. Some wireless cards have it included. Most on board audio these days is good enough to the point where you won't need a sound card.

Some of the parts you had picked out were overkill and some you were just unnecessarily overpaying for.

• For SSD, the Sandisk drive I picked out is great for the price, if not better than the PNY one you picked out.
  
• For the GPU, it's hard to justify the 390X for the extra $100 in my opinion
  
• And as for the PSU, a 650W one will do just fine
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $238.87 @ OutletPC
  CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H5 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $46.99 @ Newegg
  Motherboard | MSI Z170A GAMING M7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $202.98 @ Newegg
  Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $64.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Storage | Sandisk Ultra II 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $219.71 @ Amazon
  Video Card | Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card | $299.99 @ Micro Center
  Case | Cooler Master Storm Stryker (White) ATX Full Tower Case | $139.99 @ Newegg
  Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ Newegg
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1358.51
  | Mail-in rebates | -$70.00
  | Total | $1288.51
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-23 00:48 EDT-0400 |

You can get a card that supports AC for 30$ though.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/?tag=pcpapi-20

I've heard good things about the Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I

Sure, just get a dongle or a PCI card like this.

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457324167&sr=8-1&keywords=gigabyte+pcie+wifi

I spam this whenever ppl ask about wifi cards. I bought this and it works perfectly.

1. Hard to say. Some games are really well optimized and others not. Some will run fine at 1080p but will chug at 1440p. Most of the time though the 1440p meta is a Ryzen 5 or Core i3 cpu and a GTX 1070ti. You'd have to look up 1440p benchmarks of your favorite games running on a 2600x / 1070 pc.
   
   
2. $30 to $100. Though you'll probably want something like this.

Short answer: don't buy it. You need a full size PCIe wireless solution like this Gigabyte card which internally is just an Intel 8260. For some reason, it's more expensive that it usually is, but you have to get a full size PCIe card at any rate.

Long answer: The Intel 9260 is a E and A key M.2, so it might in fact fit on the M.2 slots on your board. In fact, that motherboard may also have the capability to use the wireless card properly from that slot too! Alas, off the top of my head, I don't know if it'll work, and moreover, if it did work, your reception would be piss poor since the card doesn't come with antenna. You can buy a full size PCIe to mini PCIe adapter and add antenna to that, but that only really makes sense if you're looking for something specific in the wireless card.

Many PCIe wireless cards are in fact just that — full size to mini adapters with antenna. That Gigabyte one is internally just an Intel 8260. Those mini PCIe cards are good for upgrading laptops and upgrading old cards on these PCIe adapters but not good if you have a desktop motherboard without a proper place to put it or antenna.

Edit: you mentioned you need this adapter for around $20AUD. Unfortunately, you'll be hard pressed to find a proper PCIe solution at that price. If you don't have 802.11ac at home, you can take a step down to 802.11n which is significantly cheaper.

http://www.logicalincrements.com Do the 1000 dollar build there, i would literally have to change everything in here. Except for os. Get better ram. Also, get this wireless adapter it is better and less expensive. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/?tag=pcpapi-20

Very few motherboards come with built-in wifi/bluetooth. You can either get a USB adapter, or a PCIe one, like this.

My router is on the far side of my house, so my preferred 5G connection sucks. My wireless card is the popular Gigabyte one.

With power line my ping is 25ms and I get 70 down.

(assuming you're talking about a desktop) I have this thing and it's absolutely perfect on linux:

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1542902422&sr=8-8&keywords=wifi+pcie


It's pci-e, so it does require you to open your pc and plug it inside, but the connection is very stable also thanks to the external antenna. It uses an intel chipset (the card is basically a glorified adapter for a laptop wifi card) which is well supported on linux.

Go for a pcie card. They always have multiple antennas which can give better speeds and I've always gotten better reception with them because of the external antennas which you can mount at a higher point. Gigabyte had one with work built in Bluetooth which comes in handy.

A USB one can be handy if you need to take it on the go, but for a desktop just get a pcie one.

This is the one I've been using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FaP6BbJJFNXM5

Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter

How about this? The WikiDev page says it's just an Intel 8265 stuffed in an adapter, which means iwlwifi can drive it without issue.

There are much less expensive options, too. My cheapo $20 Realtek card works flawlessly.

You can always go for a bluetooth/wifi pcie card like so: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6

as far as I know, I never actually tried it, it uses a PCIe 1x slot for wifi, but a usb 2.0 header for bluetooth to be a generic bluetooth adapter

amazon link

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Hey, I've found Intel chipsets work pretty well out of the box. If you're cool with using a PCI-e slot, this Gigabyte WB867-I Rev 4.2 card meets your requirements. FWIW, this is the card I'm currently using and haven't had any issues whatsoever. Good luck.

This is the one that I have in my rig. Its nothing special at all, but it does the job and I don't notice any lag (then again, I'm not an enthusiast who would know the lag when I saw it in the first place).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sbbDCbC4AJCRE

This is what I was planning on using, just was looking for a USB because I thought it’d be easier to install

You can buy a USB adapter. I'm using this one for my PS4 controller.

Or you can use something like this which includes Wi-fi as well.

I would definitely still get the HDD. I’m am advocate for as much space as possible, but I am a bit of a data hoarder. As for wifi adapters the best value, in my opinion, are the PCI-e adapters with AC in the ~$40 range. I forget the exact model number of mine, but I have a $35 gigabyte PCI-e with AC wifi and bluetooth and it’s been great.

Edit: I have this wifi card. It is worth noting it has some issues in rare cases with 5GHz networks, but I've contacted support about it and hope we can get a driver fix out for it.

Edit: As for the GPU compatibility issue, whether that impacts things depends on the layout of the case and I’m not familiar with that one in particular so can’t say.

Some wireless cards have Bluetooth as well. For example. https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6

I was about to say exactly what you said...

Also this wifi adapter is a much nicer one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ It's basically Intel's newest Wireless AC 7260 chip on a miniPCIe to PCIe adapter board. It supports 2-stream ac (866Mbps link rate max), bluetooth 4 (you never know when you might want it) and is cheaper to boot!

There's probably a pair of ethernet jacks in the room. USE THEM IF AT ALL POSSIBLE. Wifi sucks nuts when you've got 100 people in the same building trying to use it. If you have to use wifi, I hope for your sake it's at least a 5GHz network.

Wifi is radio waves. A computer case is a big metal box. Metal boxes block radio waves. You want the antenna for your wifi radio to not be stuck behind the big metal box. This means having some sort of cable to move the antenna or the adapter out from behind the box. The three easiest ways to do this are:

1. Get a PCIE wifi card that lets you move the antenna.
   
2. get a USB wifi adapter that lets you do the same thing with your antenna
   
3. Just get a normal USB wifi dongle and put it on a USB extension cord.
   
   Note: I'm not suggesting either of those adapters specifically, just using them for illustration purposes.

Does anyone have experience with a wifi card that uses a USB slot like this one? I don't think using up a USB slot for this is a good idea. The case I ordered has only 2 slots, I believe.

msi x370 gaming pro carbon + $30ish wifi card or asrock x370 taichi? If the latter is in stock I'll get it in a heartbeat but really other than wifi is there any significant reason to get it? I heard the newest bios ramped up stability for ram for the carbon. Is the onboard wifi better than the card I have?

msi

asrock

wifi card

It's about the same cost except one is out of stock, holding me back from buying anything.

All of those slots.

You can get a wifi adapter that uses PCIe.

Like this one from Gigabyte:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/?tag=pcpapi-20

Much better than the USB one you linked.

Hey, I just built my pc, but am having trouble with the wlan adapter -it's this one: Gigabyte GC WB867D I tihnk it uses the PCIe Express x1 slot, but my graphic card is blocking it (my mainboard is the MSI B350 Tomahawk). I don't understand the table in the motherboard manual and none of the other slots are the same size. Does anyone know if/how I can still install the wlan adapter?

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6
a little more than 40 but im sure you can find it on another site. Probably the best one ive ever used after burning through so many dongles

I'm trying to decide on a WiFi adapter. I've seen the Gigabyte one mentioned plenty on the sub, but it seems the price has gone up a bit. I'm also looking at the TP-Link WDN 4800. Is there any reason to spend the extra $15-20 on the Gigabyte, or is the TP-Link comparable enough to save a bit?

With a card like this

I like a lot of the changes and you did a great job of keeping the builds integrity, while still decreasing the price, thanks a ton!

If I were wanting to have Bluetooth and WiFi capabilities with this build, what would i need to do?

Edit: found this and I think it is pretty good: http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421396763&sr=8-1&keywords=GIGABYTE+Model+GC-WB867D-I+Bluetooth+4.0%2FWiFi+Expansion+Card

It's on Amazon too AFAIK. Not sure why it's not listed there.

EDIT. "Currently Unavailable" on Amazon. Out of stock on Newegg too.

You would need this:
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=23NI4BOYS0KVD&keywords=gigabyte+wifi+adapter&qid=1555973224&s=electronics&sprefix=gigabyte+wifi%2Celectronics%2C158&sr=1-3

Yeah I'm using wireless, and sometimes it'll cut and show no networks detected for a little while, which makes me think its definitely the card. I'm using this right now fwiw.


I'm considering replacing the card with the AC1300 or AC1900 when it completely dies, or just trying out powerwire ethernet but I'm not sure what's best.

Hey. That's quite a... detailed list you've got there. I'll clear up what I can. I'll go through your issues one by one.

First off:Motherboard. Addresses in problem #7 #5.
-Bluetooth. Most motherboard don't have a built in Bluetooth module. If you want Bluetooth anyway I recommend you to check out this:
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6
This also comes with wifi. Bonus points for convenience.

-Motherboard:Your 6700k is an unlocked processor, which mean it is designed for a Z170 chipset motherboard, which enables CPU overclocking, you can learn more about it in Google. Considering your concern about audio quality I recommend either an:

+ASROCK Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming K4

Or a

+Gigabyte Z170X Gaming 3

Both of which comes with the newest onboard audio codec [ALC1150] but I generally prefer the Z170X Gaming 3 because it has better build quality and comes with an Op Amp. Solid choice overall.

Secondly:Performance related issues. As addresses in problem #2 and #3

-Ram:32GB of RAM is all you need, most of the people who run out of 64gb RAM are the ones who work on hi profile project like BF1 and AAA titles. Don't sweat it.

-Storage:1TB SSD is pretty pricey but is worth it if you can pay the bucks. If you can't, then opt for a 120gb or 240gb SSD and then get 3x500GB HDD and run it in Raid 0 configuration. This feature is supported by the aforementioned motherboards, this makes the HDD faster while still having fast boot time and low cost.

Third: Comfortability. This one is small so I'll keep it short.

-Keyboard:It depends on your need. If you want a quiet and tactile, go for Brown switch. If you don't use the keypad much but can use some extra money and space they get a TKL keyboard, it all depends on your preference. My recommendation:
https://www.amazon.com/Storm-QuickFire-Rapid-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B007VDKLLM?th=1&psc=1

-Monitors:Are you multitasking? Do you want to watch porn while playing GTA5? Then get 2 1080p.
If you prefer quality instead, I recommend an ultra wide 1440p monitor. The 1070 isn't powerful enough to hit a steady 144fps at max settings.1080 also has a hard time hitting it so just stay with the 1070 and SLI later for extra performance. My recommendation:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VBNQJSM/ref=as_li_tl?tag=amazon0251-20&ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00VBNQJSM&linkCode=as2&linkId=DXJX3BVD7T5PL252
There is enough real estate for multiple windows when you're not gaming. So if you can spare a few buck then this may be cool for you.

-Case: Just go with what the community considers best: the NZXT S340. Simple and efficient.

-Installation: You do indeed need to buy a Phillips screwdriver if you want to assemble the PC. The rest is just adult Lego.

Hope I cleared that up. If you don't understand anything feel free to ask me.

this is the one I personally use: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3UXYS53QTXNAB&keywords=pcie+wifi+card&qid=1571768127&sprefix=pcie+wif%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-4

Don't get tricked by anything around $100, unless your router is $500+ I doubt your wifi speeds are getting to much over 100mbs. Try speed test on your phone sitting at your desk.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

Yes, though Gigabyte's is a bit cheaper, and they've been good about card-specific support issues, over the years.

If you have an X1 PCIe slot open, get this instead. I've bought 3 of these, and they're great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CA0LDbPNPCYZG

Ok great, thank you. The PCE-AC88 and AC68 are a little out of my budget, but the downgraded model, PCE-AC56, is within my budget. How does that one look?

Also, the Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-i is around the same price of the AC56, and it includes bluetooth and is apparently Intel based wifi. But it looks like people prefer the asus wifi adapters. Do you know why that is?

Yup, I have the one below and almost always still get 100mbs down. Plus, you get Bluetooth as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6

This card will not allow you to take advantage of your gigabit connection. It's an 802.11n 300Mb/s card and it's not going to get 300Mb/s (that's maximum theoretical speed).

From this page, what does your router look like? Is it the Quantum one or the high-speed wifi gateway?

You need an 802.11ac card to get gigabit speeds. GC-WB867D-I or Fenvi.

I am using a PCI-e card now and it was worth every dime. It's supports 802.11ac and it has bluetooth. The signal is always perfect, whereas USB adapter always dropped signal. I've never had great experiences with USB adapters.

I am using the Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I

I have this as my WiFi/Bluetooth PCI card. It comes with an external antenna that helpfully has a magnet to attach to your case. If you do not attach said antenna, the card will have spotty performance; if you do attach said antenna the card functions gloriously. Only downside is you need a free USB-2.0 header on your motherboard to get the Bluetooth functionality. If you have a spare USB-2.0 header, I recommend this one. I've not had any problems with it, and Windows, Mac, and Linux have all worked with it.

People will tell you to post in /r/buildapcforme since they've put in the rules:

>DON'T post

> Requests to be given a build.

I will however give you a couple of pointers on your requirements.

2.USB, sure. SD card reader, no. You will get a quality USB 3.0 card reader for a couple of bucks. Don't restrict your options. Plus most cases that feature them use really bottom of the barrel stuff to cut costs. Not worth it.

6.The build-in wireless adapter is no different that buying a pcie x1 wireless adapter. For instance, this adapter, if you zoom in on the card, you'll see that it's essentially an adapter that holds an m.2 wifi adapter. That m.2 is that most boards with "included wifi" use. Again, don't restrict your options.

8.Memory and storage are two different things. Of which you probably need large capacities on both. Storage comes in the form of SDDs (small capacity/fast) and mechanical HDDs (large capacity/slow). That's what you use to store videos. Totally different than memory.

Using something like this https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522083645&sr=8-4&keywords=pcie+wifi+card+bluetooth&dpID=41BpgO0sa-L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

To add to what /u/sneacon was saying...

If you're looking to get a wifi card and usb bluetooth dongle, I would make sure you have a 6ft USB extension cord handy too.

I have the PCE-68 model, and keep the antenna magnetized to the top of my tower. My USB bluetooth dongle worked terribly plugged into the back on the tower. It was simply too close to the wifi antenna to work well (Pretty sure that was it anyway.) So I used the usb extension cable to keep the dongle on top of my desk.

HOWEVER... if you need both, and only need it for internet (opposed to fast/bulky network file transfers). I feel like the Gigabyte GC-WB867D will get the job done with a negligible difference. You can sometimes find it for around $30. That's what I paid and use it in my secondary computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1421007250&sr=8-1&keywords=Gigabyte+Bluetooth+4.0%2FWiFi+Expansion+Card

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480901131&sr=1-1&keywords=wi-fi+adapter+motherboard

Great. There is a better Wifi adapter though...

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6

Unless you buy a pcie Bluetooth card (something like that), a dongle is a great option. They're usually tiny and almost unnoticeable, and a very common solution.

It's mainly Bluetooth that I want since I will be hooking it up via Ethernet for the most part but there probably will be some time where I'm going to have to rely on WiFi.

I was just really confused when I started looking and saw larger cards with external antennas like this but also must smaller ones with no external antenna like this

Gigabyte WB867D-I = $30

Samsung SSD 850 120GB = $70

If you can spend $20 more, you can buy a 250GB SSD instead.

Can i recommend this guy as a replacement for your wifi card? Doubles up for Bluetooth as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6

If you are willing to spend a bit more this is by far your best value option and you also get Bluetooth connectivity.

You can get a wireless card. http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6

I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6
It has bluetooth built in and supports ac wifi with an included external antenna, if you can't or don't want to run an ethernet cable this is probably the best bang for the buck.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/442355/Xeon_E3_1231V3_35GHz_LGA_1150_Boxed_Processor (slightly downclocked i7) if any game you are using can take advantage of it(doubt it will help)

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6 BT+wifi need a usb header for bt to work

feel free to ask any questions

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $159.99 @ Micro Center
Motherboard | Asus B85M-G R2.0 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $36.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $32.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $32.99 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $64.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.99 @ B&H
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card | $274.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $24.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master SickleFlow 69.7 CFM 120mm Fan | $4.99 @ NCIX US
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $810.89
| Mail-in rebates | -$100.00
| Total | $710.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-26 04:29 EST-0500 |

i have this: works great! http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6

This isn’t a dongle but I use this expansion card and it’s been able to connect my DS4, XB1 Controller and my switch controller with no issues. I haven’t tried to pair my headphones to it yet though.

Powerline works just like ethernet, but over the power wiring in a building. It won't work in this situation because you're not going to have a physical connection to a switch in a data closet. You're going to need to stick to wireless. I'd recommend getting something like an Intel 7260 / 8260 or an Atheros AR9462 series based card. Usually they're Mini PCI-e cards in a PCI 1x or 4x adapter card.


Here are some examples from Amazon:


Intel Branded PCI-E Card


Gigabyte Card using Intel's 8260 chipset


Gigabyte Card using Intel's 3160 chipset


All are dual band and I believe all support Bluetooth as well. Get something like this instead of a USB adapter. These last longer and will provide much better performance. Alternatively, you can take an old router and if it supports DD-WRT, use that in wireless bridge mode. Hook up an Ethernet cable from you PC to the router and you'll have a very powerful wireless adapter.

TP-Link Archer T6E / T8E / T9E are all good adapters that are Hackintosh compatible, if you ever choose to go down that path.

If you don't foresee yourself doing Hackintosh, this one's got built-in Bluetooth.

Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N

this link should be ok...

I have an ASUS Z170 pro gaming motherboard paired with this Gigabyte NIC (https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6). Has amazing reviews but I might have a buggy one eh?

I recently purchased this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZLyYzbY2G1JYY

I get about 75/50 but the router is pretty close on the same floor

I ordered this a couple months back, so I forgot who shipped it to me, unfortunately.

However, although pcpartpicker only lists superbiiz, it is available on other sites like amazon, but for $20 more. Feel free to look around on your preferred sites and stores. Ultimately, it's your call.

Realtek doesn't make the actual adapters just the chips that run them. Broadcom is another,theres Atheros which Qualcomm owns. Anyway they aren't bad chips. For instance this Asus Is using a broadcom chipset.

Anyway pretty much any PCIE adapter with antennae will probably do. Generally speaking ignore the "gaming" ones as it's the same thing just with some QOS and more software and extra money.

Most adapters that aren't "basic" are probably going to be more than what you need by a large amount. They're are, however, some "nice to haves" things like multiple antennae for both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz for "Beam forming" which works both ways to improve the signal. Or an ASIC for processing the data.

Anyway I spent some time looking and found the Rosewill n900 With an Atheros AR9380 It's bigger brothers have similar Atheros chipsets if you want to bump up to wireless AC, assuming your router supports it. Anyway Atheros are good chips, found pretty much everywhere but sometimes the implementation isn't so good. (Mostly labtops and not add-on cards) On the hardware side anyway. Make sure you have good drivers and any updates that come along should be checked.

Intel's little niche for wifi is little standalone chips that go into laptops for the most part. They do have adapters that you can use to place them into desktop computers but then your looking at the chipset plus adapter and you kind of have to know what your going for. I did find quite a few PCIE cards but most had older chipsets. And one good premade Has one less antennae but also has bluetooth and supports AC. Needs an empty USB slot on the motherboard to use bluetooth.

coax latency is already triple that of fiber,
so just get a good wifi antenna for your pc;
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00HF8K0O6 pcie
there are plenty to choose from, but i would
advise getting anything where the antenna is
on a wire so it can be far away from the card.
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B00MX57AO4 usb

the deal where you can't wire between his modem
and your pc is kind of lame, considering the cabletv
company would have run another coax to your modem,
so either way - more wires getting tacked along the wall.

I always seem to get issues with unreliable USB cards so I prefer PCI-E too. I've used a half a dozen of these with absolutely no issues and they run an Intel 8260-series card which is rock solid in my experience in both Windows and Linux. Price ranges from $29 to $65 depending on the month.
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=CGC2IKFALLD8&keywords=gigabyte+pcie+wifi+card&qid=1554574472&s=gateway&sprefix=gigabyte+pcie&sr=8-3

Your best bet is probably to use an Intel wifi card, which tends to have excellent Linux support.

Of course, finding those in full sized PCI-E is... Difficult, in that I couldn't in a whole 10 minutes of hunting, but there are some options still.

Namely, mini-PCI-E to PCI-E cards with antenna adapters are totally a thing, and https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6 looks like one exactly that, but bundled and sold together.

There's this Gigabyte one that's usually recommended here

Soz didn't even check that.

Amazon says there is 1 left in stock for $35.96. Linkity

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Bluetooth-Expansion-Components-GC-WB867D-I/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427450982&sr=8-1&keywords=gigabyte+wireless+and+bluetooth+card

I bought this expansion card 1 month ago. works fine except the bluetooth is failing. I reinstalled drivers and simply won't connect to anything anymore.

Whoops, I definitely meant to link a gigabyte one. Like this? https://smile.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1526802688&sr=1-9&keywords=pcie+wifi+card

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526680994&sr=8-2&keywords=gigabyte+wifi+card

ive been using this one for a year works well and pretty cheap. antenna is magnetic so it can stick to a metal frame case.

I believe it's this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/

this subreddit is for MSI laptops, but i can still try to help. you never mentioned if you are connecting wirelessly or via ethernet but because of the Ethernet driver talk im guessing thats what your using. have you tried a PCIe wireless card? i just put this in my new build

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZCEI3EMXUPTH

Is this good?

This? Looks like it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_2_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1474924976&sr=8-2&keywords=Gigabyte+GC-WB867D-I&condition=new

Anyone knows if it's compatible with this?

>1.) Get the i5 with the CPU cooler

yeah

>2). use existing PSU

yeah

>3.) Stick with the M3

If it's got everything you want, yeah.

>Also is there any other items you would change ?

The Wifi card is overpriced. I like putting Gigabyte's GC-WB867D-I into builds (if you go down this route, install the drivers from their website, don't use Windows' built-ins).

I misread your original post, and assumed you had typo'd the 970. I wouldn't put a 970 into a build unless you can get it at a deeper discount than $270. An RX 480 is ideal there, but a secondhand 970 from /r/hardwareswap is also an option.

But if you're not patient, a new Zotac on Newegg is cheaper @ $255 after promo.

I have one of these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't complain what so ever, it's fast, super reliable, and native win10 driver support. Adds bluetooth as well, it's been very reliable.

I've had this gigabyte wifi card for about 2 years now and it works great. also has Bluetooth.

I got this and was amazed at the range on both the wifi and bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: three people just recommended in the time it took me to look up the card and paste it here. This is the one.

This is my card

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think it should work fine but I will look into getting a new antenna.

There's a gigabyte PCI wireless card, which has all those features plus WiFi AC for slightly cheaper. I'll link it if I can find it (I'm on mobile right now).

Edit: here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HF8K0O6?pc_redir=1408507632&robot_redir=1

Have this card for $30 shipped?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

This thingy here is what you want

Any time man :)


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HF8K0O6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I have and it works great, it even has a magnetic antenna you can stick on top of your case to help it pick up the wifi signal better!

I haven't had any problems with this wifi card, no wifi cutouts or any type of lag and I'm glad I bought it.

> need to get a wireless card that can handle it

Is this because you're not in the same room as your router? I picked up this on Amazon and my connection went from 10Mbps to 80Mbps. Previously I had the Gigabyte wifi/bluetooth card which is a steal for the price.

here is the one i got.

I get good fps on csgo and dota 2. No lag whatsoever. Overwatch I have yet to buy but I play PUBG and it also gets me good connection and my fps stays between 115-120. Here's the link gigabyte adapter

Here you go

Not under 20. Its 40. You can find them used for 20 though.
By far one of the best you will find out there for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is there any reason to buy this over this one price isn’t an issue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this for years with no issues. I don't use it while at school, but at home where my wireless is almost as great as my wired at school it works excellently.

Not to hijack this, but my question goes hand in hand.
Anyone have any thoughts, or info, on this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HF8K0O6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493578803&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Pcie+WiFi+Bluetooth&dpPl=1&dpID=51i-fJoCG%2BL&ref=plSrch

I like the thought it has Bluetooth and is solid with W10 supposedly.

Could be a good recommendation for the OP,but didn't want to steer em wrong.

I ended up taking a chance and going with a Gigabyte card. I'll refer back to your above comment if the problem comes back. Thanks again!

Well i ordered this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I bought this wifi card https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8K0O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to go with my h110m mobo, but my computer isn't recognizing it. Also, it said to usb connect it to f_usb, but my mobo only has j_usb?

I got this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018TX8IDA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522170857&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wireless+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31N0alLcZEL&ref=plSrch

However if you got the scratch people are always recommending this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HF8K0O6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522170888&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wireless+adapter+gigabyte&dpPl=1&dpID=41BpgO0sa-L&ref=plSrch


That's exactly what I did is get a longer Ethernet cord. I use a USB extension cable so I can place my adapter in the best spot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HF8K0O6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has ac and Bluetooth compatibility to go with 2.4 and 5 ghz

I would go with options #2 unless you really want to spend the extra $7 for Bluetooth 4.2 over Bluetooth 4.0. For everyday bluetooth use, you won't notice a difference (i.e. bluetooth speakers or mouse). Transferring files from your computer to your phone via bluetooth will be faster with 4.2 over 4.0 naturally, but are you going to transfer large files to your bluetooth enabled devices? If it is small files like MP3's then the difference is negligible.

https://amzn.com/B00HF8K0O6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OM0L9ZO/?tag=pcpapi-20

If you are looking for WiFi AND bluetooth in one card you will likely have to go with a laptop card. The AC-7260 is a SOLID card that I have in both my work computer and personal computer. You can also try to get one of the newer cards if you want to futureproof. However, your router is old and that will be the bottleneck.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Desktop-Network-7260HMWDTX1-R/dp/B00OM0L9ZO/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=intel+wifi+pcie+desktop&qid=1567214370&s=gateway&sr=8-6

You need to connect to the USB header for bluetooth functionality in addition to the PCIe.

I feel like a dope. I just picked up an intel 9560 wireless AC adapter. for my desktop, and I realized I can't install it.

I have an older 7260 desktop PCIE adapter, but they aren't compatible, and I can't find a similar adapter anywhere for an m.2 2230 wifi card like the 9560.

I am currently working with a new Ryzen build, based around an ASRock b350 mobo. I have a NVME SSD in M.2 slot 1, and i was thinking about installing the network adapter in m.2 slot 2, but I am worried it won't work, and I don't want to get the antennas and whatnot if I'm just going to have to return everything anyway.

Does anyone have any advice before I just return this thing?

• Do those motherboards support Kaby Lake out of the box? Since this is my first build, I can't do a bios update since I don't have a compatible processor.
  
• I do need a Wi-Fi adapter, and that one had 100% Linux compatibility. Edit: This one is also by Intel and is cheaper.
  
• Where can I find those $80 graphics cards?
  
• The case was one the one PCMaster race had on all their builds which is why I went with it. Are there any others you recommend?

Intel wifi card. They're stable, drivers are simple, and they actually provide close to their rated speed.

I own this adapter and get 20 megabytes / second minimum sustained, sometimes 25-45 if everything is perfect. My link speed is 867 or something like that when connected to my R6400. I get the transfer speeds from transferring large files (10GB + from a dedicated NAS server running Windows 10 and connecting to the network via gigabit ethernet)

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Desktop-Network-7260HMWDTX1-R/dp/B00OM0L9ZO

My local retailer (Canada) and the exact one I bought: http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX56976

it uses the Intel AC 7260 chipset and is effectively the same thing as the Intel AC 7260 desktop adapter, as far as I know.

I bought the older version of the Intel adapter (before the Gigabyte model was available) and it is the best one I've ever used. The ping is only a few ms worse than using a wired connection. Amazing.

If the Gigabyte version is even close to the Intel one it is a steal.

$48 Intel @newegg

$52 Intel @amazon

I would just look at reviews. If there are few or poor reviews I would avoid it. Also, make sure it has specs you want: ac and 5 ghz capable. Maybe get one tri band if you have a fancy router. Bluetooth is a plus. I personally settled with the Intel 7260 and it works great. It checks all of the boxes, but is not tri band: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Desktop-Network-7260HMWDTX1-R/dp/B00OM0L9ZO

the best? intel wifi card.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-Desktop-Network-7260HMWDTX1-R/dp/B00OM0L9ZO

Powerline adapters are pretty dependent on the integrity of your house's wiring, and the distance. If your house is kinda old, I'd go with a solid wifi card like this one.

What speeds do you normally get with the wifi? Is the signal strong in the area you want to move it? Light interference?

I went ahead and ordered this. From what have seen on wi-fi.org, this should work.

I've been building PCs for a super long time and I've never seen this site before, it's great. $100 for something so simple is kinda crazy...I went with the Intel model :)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OM0L9ZO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AKY6F0TJ9BHIQ

so far my best uninformed choice would be TP-Link Archer T9E AC1900 ( french amazon link : https://www.amazon.fr/TP-Link-Archer-T9E-Adaptateur-1900Mbps/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ )

I recommend TP-Link Archer T9E AC1900 Dual Band Wireless PCI Express Adapter, 5Ghz 1300Mbps + 2.4Ghz 600Mbps, Beamforming, 3T3R, Include Low-profile Bracket, Support Windows XP/7/8/8.1/10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JsK6xbE6V6YTB
Very good card. I have great speeds and mostly single digit ping.

If I were to buy an AC1900 Wifi adapter would it work with with an AC1750 router or does it not matter. An ethernet connection would be too much work for me to set up and I just need a stable connection. The router is 5ghz.

I was thinking between one of these two:

https://www.amazon.ca/Asus-USB-AC68-Dual-Band-Adapter-Included/dp/B01I7QFR10/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=wifi+adapter+asus&qid=1566618058&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T9E-Wireless-Express/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Ah so 3x3 = 3 antennas right?

I think this one is 3x3 https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-PCI-Express-Beamforming-Archer-T9E/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511881535&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=TP-Link+Archer+T9E+AC+1900+Wireless+Dual+Band+PCI+Express+Adapter%2C

I have both This one and this one on 2 different PC's with this router.

Can recommend all three. Both have strong connection through walls, and undropping 450-600mbps connections. That Gigabyte is particularly a great bang for buck card, I recommend it to everyone, zero complaints. From my internal server it handily has constant 50-60MBps transfers. Just over half wired speed upload and download, which for wireless is perfectly acceptable to me.

USB adapters work, and can work just fine. But a PCI card will have better throughput and better range. I use that very same adapter on my Rpi because it isn't the most powerful thing, and it does work. But not nearly as well.

Heres the #1 selling pcie wifi card on Amazon for $40: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A

It uses 802.11a/b/g/n but there's a more expensive card 75$ if your looking for 802.ac (higher bandwidth): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX7AQ?psc=1 .

But remember your wifi is only good as your weakest link so if you go 802.ac you'd probably need a better router to get the most out of it. Also depends on your internet provider plan. I'd stick with the first choice because of your budget

I use the first one w/o issue

Which Adapter is better? Which would you recommend?

ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter (PCE-AC68)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/?tag=pcpapi-20

TP-Link Archer T9E AC1900 Dual Band Wireless PCI Express Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX7AQ?psc=1

Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Combo PCI Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF8K0O6/?tag=pcpapi-20

thanks so much!! https://www.amazon.com/Archer-T9E-Wireless-Beamforming-Low-profile/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474181142&sr=1-1&keywords=tP-Link%2BArcher%2BT9E&th=1 with this it should be about the same right D?

TP-Link Archer AC1900 WiFi Card PCIe Adapter with Beamforming and Heatsink Technology (T9E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SHLWAbFZEPSWG

I have a TP-link Ac1900 that I bought in June, 2017 and barely used.

link

Any interest?

This is the one I use, and it gets great range. https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T9E-Beamforming-Low-profile/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/

32 gb coupled with a gpu that has 8gb of vram seems to be overkill at this very moment. I would go to 16 gb, and save yourself $80 in order to put it towards a http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T9E-Beamforming-Low-profile/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459112531&sr=1-7&keywords=wireless+pci+card (only if you have an AC compatible router, though). If you don't want to get that, then your build is looking pretty great.

EDIT: However, I'd still go 16gb in order to get an i7. i5s are usually chosen for gaming, but seeing as you do video editing, you could utilize an i7-6700k way better.

A great Wireless-N Wi-fi card is the TP-Link TL-WN881ND for under $20.

If you need bluetooth as well as a basic Wireless-AC (AC1200), then there's an Asus PCE-AC55BT that has you covered.

For higher performing 802.11ac with beamforming, an affordable option is the TP-Link Archer T9E AC1900 card. For top of the line, you should look at the AC3100 capable Asus PCE-AC88 card.

> T9E

Would that be this card?

This is my wifi adapter: https://www.amazon.es/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Emu4CbCENQBQD

I'll try removing it

Amazon search, PCIe, Amazon Prime for that sweet free shipping:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_st_review-rank?keywords=wireless+adapters&fst=p90x%3A1%2Cas%3Aoff&rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A193870011%2Cn%3A17923671011%2Cn%3A13983711%2Ck%3Awireless+adapters%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A6011949011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011&qid=1538695753&sort=review-rank

40 bucks, amazon's best seller:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T6E-Wireless-Technology/dp/B016K0896K/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1538695772&sr=1-4&keywords=wireless+adapters&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A6011949011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011

AC1300 dual band, not the other one.

"N300" is just 2.4 ghz, don't go there.

Not sure what router you have, if this higher end card would be of benefit:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T9E-Beamforming-Technology/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=zg_bs_3012291011_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VVAD1W30VR3E1GVMJ2X0

Rosewill stuff is OK in my experience:

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Wireless-802-11AC1200-Including-Low-Profile/dp/B0799J48HD/ref=zg_bs_13983711_21?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BPF41JVTDJR8NADY6FKH

I have seen this name mentioned, I think for Hackintosh builds, Fenvi?

https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Express-Single-chip-Dual-Band-2-Stream/dp/B07H3TCXMK/ref=zg_bs_13983711_49?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BPF41JVTDJR8NADY6FKH

Looks pretty nice! Thanks sir.

Do you think its a good idea to upgrade the antennas? I'd either like to extend them with a cable, or buy larger ones. My AP isn't that far away, but I think that slightly larger antennas would benefit me. It's gotta go through a few walls. I have one large antenna that I can try putting on it to experiment. I just hope this adapter does the trick for me.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-PCI-Express-Beamforming-Archer-T9E/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

do you think this is worth the additional cost? it's the AC1900 version. btw it's 69.99 at my local microcenter

Well a sincere thank you for talking me down off that ledge. I just ordered these:

Gigabyte LGA1151 Intel Z170 2-Way SLI ATX DDR4 Motherboards GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012IBPJ6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_QYl9wb8Q4D1GX

TP-LINK Archer T9E AC1900 Dual Band Wireless PCI Express Adapter, 5Ghz 1300Mbps + 2.4Ghz 600Mbps, Beamforming, 3T3R, Include Low-profile Bracket, Support Windows XP/7/8/8.1/10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_pZl9wbZKXBTN3

Now to wait for Saturday and rebuild.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-PCI-Express-Beamforming-Archer-T9E/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500585163&sr=1-1&keywords=tplink+ac1900+wireless+card

edit: same card I use, its a beast

Yep, I was seeing lots of stuttering after I moved and had to put my computer downstairs and far away from the router. I fixed my problem by upgrading my wireless card: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ and haven't had an issue since.

edit: it also had nothing to do with ping. I was pinging 4ms to some of the west coast servers and it was still happening. Open a command prompt and ping -t google.com - let it run for awhile and you'll see if you're dropping packets.

I'd say they're probably about the same thing ... the tp-link is advertising some smart-home fluff like alexa compatibility and IFTTT compatibility. How many devices are you going to be running off of it ... these are a bit overkill for most situations ?

Here's two expamples of the type of wifi adapter you'll probably want if you do decide to go with one of these routers:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B01H9QMOMY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502291134&sr=1-3&keywords=wifi%2Badapter%2Bpcie&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-PCI-Express-Beamforming-Archer-T9E/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502291113&sr=1-2&keywords=wifi+adapter+pcie

check if you are behind 7 proxies. might explain about the latency. or your wifi adapter is shit. check this out.. sweet 1300Mbps

The wireless card I use is TP-Link Archer T9E. It's a little expensive for a wireless card, but compared to my macbook's wireless internet speed, there's a noticeable difference.

Also, here's tonymacx86's buyers guide:

http://www.tonymacx86.com/building-customac-buyers-guide-november-2015.html

TP-Link AC1900 Wireless Dual Band PCI-Express Adapter with Beamforming Technology (Archer T9E) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uhBKzbTN6FAV2

I use this

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-PCI-Express-Beamforming-Archer-T9E/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506755345&sr=8-1&keywords=TP-Link+-+Archer+T9E+PCI

Yeah, I may have to go this route. I'll probably get this upgrade if nothing else works: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-PCI-Express-Beamforming-Archer-T9E/dp/B00TQEX7AQ?tag=2kreviews-20

its expensive.

You can go for the cheaper AC1300 if you wanna save money.

I am 20 ft from the router (Asus rt-56u) and have 60Mbps coming in, but I still got lag spikes and rubber banding in CSGO. i would go from 50ms ping to 150 sometimes up to 800 and it would be literally unplayable because it was 1 step forward 10 steps back.

I even tried this wireless card and it seemed to work for a while (after dicking around finding alternative drivers) and then I had issues again.

I also bought a new modem and tried a different router and that didn't work either.

TLDR: I ultimately bought this powerline adapter for $30 and have had steady 30-40 ping in csgo with no issues.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought that one for about $70. I'm two floors up from my router, but one both my laptop and xbox one I get full signal on the 5ghz band. Will see how it performs soon.

Got my brother this one https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Archer-T6E/dp/B016K0896K/ref=dp_ob_title_ce which is an updated version of the wifi card that someone else posted, and we recently upgraded the wifi router (also very important) to an Archer C7. He said he was getting the full 65ish Mb/s speed that our connection runs on, not sure how his ping was though.

I personally just got this one for $35 US as a warehouse deal and it works amazing. It has the same speed as wired with almost the same ping. And it has better speed/ping than using a powerline adapter. Although this is using my old router's antanaes. Not sure how it performs with the stock ones. Probably almost exactly the same.

As far as what you actually need/want I would assume something like this would probably suit you just fine and would likely work just as well. Or this one which may get better performance.

Edit: Put in Amazon.ca link for first one

Is this wireless card any good? Seems decent to me but I don't know very much about these things.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B016K0896K?th=1

I am working on an old system from around 2008. Does the interface on a wireless adapter matter? Could I easily upgrade to a more modern adapter with little issue even with a 10-year old motherboard?

For reference, the motherboard is this one. I'm thinking about upgrading from this wireless adapter to something like this.