Definitely get a cheap 3rd party cooler for that CPU my dude. An H7 would do just fine.

Edit: On second thought, Cryorig must be going out of business because the cooler I paid under around $30 is now well over $100. Another great option would be the budget king H212 Evo and step-ups include Noctua's offering or the Scythe Mugen, BeQuiet's, all are great budget coolers.

the blue (or any color) dots are called "artifacts".

there is generally 2 reasons why artifacts happen.

1. your gpu, or more accurately your gpu memory is over heating.
   
   
2. the card is defective. (whether it be manufacturer or the user who did it). and usually its not something you can cause by watching movies/playing games and etc. its more like you dropped the card or you spilled something on it, etc type of damage.
   
   Ive heard people say bad/corrupt drivers can cause it, but i myself have never seen such a case.
   
   
   So first thing, if you overclocked you card higher then stock factory overclocks, definitely return it back to stock.
   Even if you didnt overclock the card, and its factory overclocked, try underclocking it (memory more importantly). Just to see if that fixes the problem. i mean running like 20mhz less may fix the problem and not affect performance much and is a free fix.
   
   If that gets rid of it, then its either the card isnt stable at those OC or more likely is that at that clock speed, it is running too hot. (and you can usually only monitor the temp of the gpu itself, and not things like the graphics card VRM and memory chips)
   So your gpu could be running at 50C and your gpus memory chips are running at 90C and you wont have any way of knowing (other then things like artifacts starting to happen).
   
   So another thing to want to do/try is get better case airflow. you definitely want some intake fans blowing on your gpu. (so you can do things like remove the hdd cages on some cases, or just atleast move your hdds down so the fan isnt being blocked by the physical drives).
   
   the 4850 is a pretty old card, and as old cards go, they run VERY hot compared to modern cards. and also because its old, thermal solutions are likely not being as effective as they were (like the thermal tape on your memory is probably shot and the thermal compound on the gpu is probably on its way out aswell)
   
   If you want to keep your gpu, you can try getting some thermal tape and putting it on the memory chips, or better yet get gpu memory heatsinks (the cheaper ones should be fine). something like http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ or http://www.amazon.com/Copper-Memory-Chipset-Heatsinks-Thermal/dp/B00K6YB79I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412465127&sr=1-2&keywords=thermal+tape+ram
   
   you may also want to think about removing your gpus heatsink, and cleaning off the stock thermal compound and replacing it with something else. (my personal fav lately has been arctic MX-2 and MX-4)
   
   But know all this could be for nothing too. and if you were to buy heatsinks and compound and maybe an extra fan, you could be out $20-25 for not much in return and still need to purchase another card on top of it.

3d printable frunk fan stl file
I used tinkercad to mod the original file, (it took hours to do) it’s designed to suck air out of the headset using a Noctua NF-A4x10 5V, Premium Quiet Fan
The heat isn’t that bad but after a hour of playing it starts getting pretty warm, the fan should be really quiet and the lens cover will still go on to keep the appearance of a stock headset (I might have to add 4 small 3x3mm magnets to keep the cove gap big enough for airflow)

Edit
I’m still waiting on the 5 volt noctua fan from Amazon, it should be here In 2 days I will update this post with temperature improvements and overall review.

Edit
I got the noctua 5v fan installed and it works good, I can hear it running when I’m on steamvr home and there’s no background noise but in game I can’t hear it at all.
The airflow is very gentle, I can only feel it on my eyeballs if I open them fully and lift the bottom of the hmd to increase the gap around my big nose.
The hmd stays cooler, I feel like I can play for extended periods of time easily.

Edit
I just played blades and sorcery for 40 minutes it still got hot and sweaty in the hmd, I’m hot sure if 2 fans would be better or just dry out your eyes? Maybe the best option is still a room fan, shorts, and no shirt lol

I can't help but feel that the sp120 are a bad buy. The corsair ecosystem is expensive, and if you're going to invest into it (looks amazing), you might as well go ml120 or ll120 over the sp120. If you don't have a foothold in the ecosystem, I would recommend taking a look at these. 5 fans for $40 and plays nicer with other rgb components.

Probably this fan

Noctua NF-A4x10 5V, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin, 5V Version (40x10mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V8s0DbQ5N8HRH

I couldn't either. That rgb software they have is pretty dope. iCue I think it's called? Lots of neat things you can do with that. But then you're suckered into buying more Corsair shit to be compatible. So no thanks. Deepcool has my approval and my money.

A few suggestions:

• Decent mid range CPU Cooler either big block or water like this one. Reduced system noise under load and improved overclocking / turbo boost frequencies if your CPU has those features.
  
  
• Small / cheap SSD to boot from i.e. something like this. Enough space for Windows + 1 or 2 decent sized games, although $/GB ratio isn't great.
  
  
• RAM. Even with the inflated prices RAM is going for at the moment a decent 8GB set like this one can be had for $65 and will give a bit of breathing room if you are currently on 4GB or less.
  
  
• A decent keyboard or mouse ... Razer happen to make decent models in both cases at the price point but obviously alternatives from Logitech, Steelseries etc are equally worth considering.
  
  
• A combo USB 3.0 / SATA 6 PCI-E card like this if you have an old motherboard without those interfaces and want to extend its lifespan
  
  Things not to buy:
  
  
• Graphics card (unless building a HTPC)
  
• CPU
  
• New motherboard with an old socket
  
• Hard Drive
  
  Reason being is that in these cases the performance / capacity / longevity (delete where appropriate) of parts in this price range is severely impaired compared to spending $100 ... for half the money you get way more than half the product. In almost all cases, if replacing an existing component parts bought at this price will not be a worthy upgrade unless you are upgrading the MIR space station...
  

Just a reminder that DeepCool's 5 pack of RGB 120mm PWM fans dropped back down to $35

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HN199YJ/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8

Better reviews, nicer lighting, less noise complaints. The only con being that it's not compatible with older/commodity motherboards (RGB header vs USB)

NT-H1 is my favorite.

Also available on Amazon for the same price with free shipping.

I know this is not a fair comparison, considering the name that precedes them, but these vs Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM? I don't particularly care about RGB, but they cost about 3 bucks extra each.

I’ll look into it, thanks.

Edit: looks like the Scythe Mugen 5 rev b is a great cooler. On amazon for $48.

Mugen 5 Rev. B CPU Cooler PWM Fan AMD AM4 Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YhZ3BbKAV9ZM0

I’ve been through a bunch of reviews and can’t decide which is better so I’m going to try one of each. Reviews for both are solid. No doubt both offer solid cooling and some of the quietest fans out there.

GitHub link w/files: https://github.com/MadlyFX/Index-Fan-Mount

A360 link: https://a360.co/2L61Gbc

Shapeways links for stone age people without 3D printers:

http://shpws.me/Rkx3

http://shpws.me/Rkx8

http://shpws.me/Rkx9

Index-Fan-Mount

3D printable files for a dual fan bracket for the front of the Valve Index

Design Notes:

This is built upon the Valve provided 3D model of the visor and is intended to provide a way to cool the headset and/or the user. No electronics are provided, however wiring of the fans is trivial and plenty of internal space is provided.

The fans slip into the slots on the top of the bracket and are retained by internal tabs. Optional caps, which are separate files, can be snapped onto the top to cover the gap to improve looks. The bracket itself utilizes the same locating pins of the stock visor, which means magnets must be used.

This was designed around the Noctua 40mm fans, which have rubber bumpers and are a little bit thiccer than standard 40mmx10mm fans. As such, if you use stock fans, you may find them to be a bit loose. Nothing a little double sided foam tape can't fix!

Finally, this does violate the Sensor Inclusion Zone of the Index, which means it could theoretically affect tracking performance. A photo showing this is in the root of this directory.

Printing Notes:

I would not recommend printing this using ABS, or any warp-prone filament. The locating pins of the Index are very small and very distant from each other, which means even a small amount of part warp will throw off the alignment. PLA or PETG would be my recommendation here. Of course, if it does warp, that double sided foam tape can save you once again.

This has a flat bottom and is designed to be printed "upright." It will still require supports, however none on visible surfaces.

BOM

You will need to print one of each file.

These are the recommended fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_.JGiDbBDF39J2

Use 1/8"x1/8" axially magnetized cylinder magnets, such as K&J #D22-N52.

Heres my build: http://imgur.com/gallery/cOxXC
I marked the airflow direction in red, as well as the hidden alternative front fan locations.

• Ryzen 1700 oced to 3.8GHz
  
• Cooler Master MasterLiquid 240mm
  
• Asus GTX 960 Directcu ii
  
• 5 Pack 120mm Arctic F12
  
• Phanteks fan controller
  
  The fan controller lets the non-PWM fans be controlled by PWM from the CPU Fan header. It's whisper quiet - the fans never go above medium throttle (1100 RPM) at full load and usually stay at 800 RPM even when gaming. CPU temps stay under 75C and the GPU stays under 70C when running AIDA64. This case could definitely handle the temps from 4.0GHz just fine but I'm tweaking the ram timings right now.
  
  I removed the GPU shroud as it was blocking air from the bottom intake fans to the rest of the case. It also shortened the card from 300mm to 280mm, which allowed me to put the AIO fans in a push setup. Otherwise with the GPU shroud on and the AIO fans in pull setup, CPU and GPU temps would go as high as 83C and 80C respectively.
  
  Those Arctic fans are no slouch. I ran Noctua's in my previous build but couldn't stand the colors. After researching for a bit, I decided to give the Arctic fans a shot. They may be cheap but they move a ton of air and are FAR more quieter than the Cooler Master AIO fans.

Same price on Amazon right now as well.

EDIT: Heres the link if it helps: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O8I474/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s-iYBb93KSHKP

Also, pick up a couple of 120mm case fans for better airflow and cooling

Corsair Air Series AF120 LED Quiet Edition High Airflow Fan Twin Pack - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mXUIDbZ52HTGS

link. looks like it's up a few bucks since i ordered for $8.99 on mar 7 but i'm pretty sure i saw it somewhere else too. newegg? idk.

edit: yeah found it here, originally.

The scythe mugen 5 https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77 has about the same performance as the noctua d15 and drp4 (~$90) while being under $50. It's probably one of the better value coolers out there.

NF-P14S Redux. It's about $18.95 on Amazon.ca with similar performance characteristics minus the extra accessories, SSO2 bearing (SSO bearing instead) and fancy packaging.

Hey bud. I'm not in the growing business but I know a thing or two about PC fans.

Stacking fans increases the "static pressure" (with huge efficiency costs) which will only increase total air flow if there is high resistance to the air flow. It is the same thing as torque in an engine. We sometimes use this for thick radiators but otherwise it is a redundant idea.

Typically you are much better off upgrading the fan. There is a huge difference between different fans. Given your build context, I would recommend purchasing Noctua NF-A14 3000RPM IP67 fan.

Reasons:

1. Responds to voltage so lower voltage means slower speed - allowing you to control the airflow in your case.
   
   
2. High capacity - up to 269 cubic metres of air moved per hour.
   
   
3. High reliability in moist or humid conditions (such as your bucket) - 6 year warranty.
   
   
4. Quiet - one of the quietest fans commercially available and the most efficient in terms of noise/airflow.
   
   
5. Power efficient - triple phase motor design so that down-stepping the voltage will result in significant power savings.
   
   
6. Anti-vibration rubber mounts.
   
   
7. There's more, these are simply the best fans going around. They also come in a 120mm size if that is what you require. The smaller size produces less airflow than the 140mm ones I have recommended, however, they are otherwise practically identical.
   
   Edit: In response to common PM's - To vary the voltage (and thus fan speed and therfore the rate of airflow) you should purchase a fan controller which start at $10.

Here's what I'd do:

Flash the BIOS on your current mobo so it supports Kaby Lake chips (its very easy to do).

Buy this, sell the two game codes, you should be able to get $50 all day easily. Sell your 6500 on ebay, they get around $130, sell the mobo that comes with this bundle, looks like those get $70-80 on ebay.

130+70+50 (conservative estimates, that's pretty much low end for everything) = $250 in sales. Tada, you just upgrade from 6500 to 7700k for $40.

You'll need to get a cooler, since 7700k's don't come with a stock one, but since you don't plan on OC'ing, this should be more than enough, could probably even do a light OC if you ever end up wanting to.

Amazon has had this one up for a few days.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486900087&sr=8-1&keywords=NH-D15+SE-AM4

Also two options from Scythe: the Mugen 5b - $48 and the Ninja 4 - $40. They perform on par with the True Spirit 140, D15, and DRP4, and are relatively inexpensive.

You mean like these?

I've had a surprising amount of success with heatsinks like those on a few overclocked Raspberry Pis.

This heatsink: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZRDRX8M/
With this fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA/

At that price range I'd recommend Noctuas, like one of these. They are quieter and have more static pressure. 6 year warranty vs. corsair's 2 year. These particular fans work well as both case fans and radiator fans.

4-pin PWM: https://www.amazon.ca/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-Redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G

3-pin: https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NF-P14s-redux-1200-Bearing-Fan/dp/B00KHRGWLM

There is also a 900rpm version of the 3-pin. For the PWM just get the fastest one since you can easily change the RPM to whatever.

? They do have other colors this is just one example. https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A

I just built a living room PC in the black version of this case, it's everything I hoped it would be.

Fit my micro ATX board with a double fan 1050ti and a Cryorig tower cooler on the CPU. The double chamber design leaves plenty of room for cables in the back, and it can fit up to 3 HDD's and 3 SSD's in the tool free slots.

I'd say the only real downsides are the plastic window(not as clear as tempered glass, has a blueish tint and scratches easily), overall the metal seems kind of thin and bendable, and no real soundproofing. Stock fans(3pin) are loud at full speed, I used a fan controller to run all the fans at around 30%, and they're pretty quiet.

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

There are a couple ways to improve performance, but I think the problem is that it's so expensive to produce, due to the tight tolerances required, that it's really more of a novelty than a competitive product.

Every other cooler in the video is cheaper than the Engine 27

Engine 27

Noctua

Cryorig

Phanteks

Silverstone AR06

 

To improve performance they could;

1. Integrate a vapor chamber into the base of the cooler
   
   
2. Machine a denser fin array onto the spinning fansink
   
   
3. Make the whole cooler, fansink and outer heatsink, taller. Another 10mm wouldn't hurt compatibility with most applications.
   
   All of these modifications are going to increase the price, and may or may not bring it into competitiveness with these less expensive coolers.

Noctua made their name a decade ago with their ultra silent fans. Their cooler also include NT-H1 thermal paste that is top of the line, and extra resister wire to limit fan speed. So their cooler are all premium package that is worth the price to some.

BTW Cryorig is available in Canada now so C7 can be another option:

https://www.amazon.ca/Cryorig-Flow-Heatsink-47mm-Mini/dp/B0177GTV9U/

NH-D15, is what I'm rolling with in my rig

Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 Premium-Grade 140mm Dual Tower CPU Cooler for AMD AM4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1ZnezbTYB7BPR

Yay! You're amazing!

I couldn't find any other part number from the official site. This is what I got from Amazon.




Shipping Weight: 1.8 Kg

Item model number: NH-D15 SE-AM4

ASIN: B01NC06ZYT

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/

(For the other AM4 ones from Noctua if you want to add them.)

Manufacturer reference: NH-U12S SE-AM4

ASIN: B01N9X2YYN

Item model number: NH-L9x65 SE-AM4

ASIN: B01N27QWFA

Item model number: NM-AM4-UXS

ASIN: B01N5UOPOB

Item model number: NM-AM4

ASIN: B01MTEFT52

Hope that helps!

These are the price performance Kings in my opinion. Quiet but still has great pressure, and Noctua quality for $13.90 a piece.

Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM

• Static Pressure: 2,83 mm H₂O
  
• Airflow: 120,2 m³/h
  
• RPM Range: 450-1,700

These are what I bought, I've also heard this is a great deal on good fans if you like RGB.

I would probably not recommend getting more of the base fans, they don't seem to have nearly as much flow as the Noctua fans I'm using now.

Edit: I looked up the Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM) for the fans, base fans have 52.3 CFM, RGB fans are 54.4 CFM, and the noctua is 71 CFM. So the base and RGB fans are only getting around 73% of the airflow as the noctuas. If you want to find some with a different look, just check the CFM to see how effective they will be.

Even cheaper if you buy the grey ones without the rubber inserts. All the performance of Noctua without the big price tag.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG2PGY6/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1

You can definitely stick with the Fractal series. I did because I couldn't have a loud, unsightly machine setup anywhere in my home. I have my main system w/ 10 Drives + 2 SSDs + 3 NVME drives in an R6. That has a DAS connected with 19 drives inside an R5; 8 stock bays + 3 in 2x5.25 bay adapter + extra 3 drive cage + extra 5 drive cage.

As you are in Europe, you might not even have to pay crazy shipping charges to buy spare drive cages from https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-R5_1. In the US I had to source the extra drive cages from r/hardwareswap but that proved to be easier than I expected. Here is a pic I took before I added the 2nd 5-bay drive cage: https://imgur.com/a/TWL8IB1

Edit: Request for more info...

I have not done a build log as I am not yet "finished" with the build, but it looks like there is sufficient demand for parts info so here it goes:

I have an R6 for my main NAS server loaded with the motherboard, 10 3.5 drives and one SSD. The R5 has two extra drive cages (3 + 5) as well a 2x5.25-to-3x3.5 bay adapter.

The expansion cards I use are:

• 1x LSI 9210-8i with SAS to SATA cables for 8 of the 10 internal drives in the R6. The other 2 + SSD use SATA ports on the motherboard.
  
  
• 1x LSI-9207-8e connected via 8088 cables to two HP SAS expanders powered in the R6 by riser cards which connect to the drives with the same SAS to SATA cables as above.
  
  Additional parts I used:
  
  
• An SFX PSU is important so you can fix the extra drive cages. Don't skimp on this one. You don't need a ton of Watts (I'm using a 600W Gold) but you need quality, you are hooking up thousands of dollars of drives to it!
  
  
• Power splitters: One & Two
  
  
• Power switch to turn on the DAS PSU and reset it any time you need to take the NAS offline (DAS always must be powered on first)
  
• Fan controller for powering fans in the DAS
  
  More inspiration can be found here: https://www.serverbuilds.net/16-bay-das

I don't have pics, sorry. However I can share a few other things to help -

1. Heatsink
   
2. HDMI Chip location

Everything is relatively inexpensive and simple to do so take your time, re-watch the V20 breakdown video a few times and be gentle!

https://youtu.be/p5zgV9TIrPU

Also I've read the application of a new coat of thermal paste helps with screen burn in. I'm not sure how true this is but I'll keep on eye out for it. I don't have screen burn in issues like some (always running comfort view on medium setting and a blue blocker at night) so fingers crossed. Hope this help guys.

Mine is from October 2016.

Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound - Retail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apap_mBXIxorpsyLBk

You don't need a liquid cooler for that cpu at all its overkill unless you want to buy it now to get it over with. Buy something like the evga clc 120 rgb. The rgb one is the only one that fits socket am4 or ryzen. I have the similar one that fits my 1700 or the corsair h55 I used both in the past.
EVGA CLC 120 Liquid/Water CPU Cooler, RGB LED Cooling 400-HY-CL12-V1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9X3HY1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yLDIBbCT88EE3
CORSAIR HYDRO SERIES H55 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 120mm Radiator, 120mm Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VV56TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mNDIBb9XBFP5T

I currently have this. Think it should suffice?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BSKY1M4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Noctua NF-A14 PWM, 4-Pin Premium Quiet Cooling Fan (140mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GYsADbKCQ4AZB

Buy this instead, put them in an H500 and they work great, super quiet and I can control them through the BIOS software on my Auros B450

DEEPCOOL RF120M 5IN1, 5x120mm RGB PWM Fans with 2 Fan Hubs, Compatible with ASUS Aura Sync, Controlled by Motherboard with 12V 4-pin RGB Header, No Wired Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN199YJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oyUADbJ95487E

Alright, this is just for confirmation but this is the fan that was on my CPU. I'm thinking about getting [this](Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes, Unique Blade Design and Red LEDs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rK5EzbZ6Z7FKN) fan as a replacement. I'm probably going to get a new case after I upgrade my GPU to the 1050TI. Would this work on top of my CPU?

Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 Premium-Grade 140mm Dual Tower CPU Cooler for AMD AM4, apparently

IMO water cooling is pointless for 99% of people and people only do it because saying you've got a "water cooled" PC sounds sexy.

The water isn't doing anything to cool the system. All it does is move the heat from the source (the CPU/GPU) to a radiator. The radiator is what actually exchanges the heat with the outside environment. IMO, why bother dealing with pumps and hoses and all the added weight that comes from filling the PC with water, when you can just slap a monster air cooler right on top of the CPU.

Something like this is going to have just as much surface area to exchange heat as a 280mm radiator will, without needing a pump and tons of coolant in a reservoir. In a normal mid tower case the space about the CPU socket is just going to be dead air anyways, might as well put your heatsink/radiator there instead of having to mount it to a fan bracket.

Don't waste your time with an unproved fan.....Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM it's not brown like other noctua fans... 95% of the performance for 1/2 the price

link
& review

Yeah, you'd want a better cooler for overclocking the 9700K (which I assume you're doing since you're getting a fairly expensive motherboard and PSU).

Something in the $50 range would be like a Thermalright Macho Rev. B or, if you really hate noise, the Scythe Mugen 5.

Although the 9700K can benefit from even more.

I wouldn't recommend the 860 EVO, as you could get something much better for the same price, the adata xpg sx8200 pro, which competes with the 970 evo.

FYI, that motherboard is currently available on Amazon right now for $180. Hasn't updated on PCPP yet.

It's a very nice cooler. You might look into the NH-U12S SE-AM4 for a cheaper option from Noctua. It's a very similar design. Comes with only 1 fan, but includes the mounting hardware and anti-vibration pads for a 2nd fan in the box. I own one of those as well that's in another system, and it's a virtually silent cooler as well.

Also, the Mugen Scythe is an awesome choice as well. https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77

This will be a very quiet and temps will be lower too. And it's half the price of even a cheap water solution.

It kinda depends, there are $40 cpu coolers that will get the job done, and $90 coolers that will get the job done with flying colors.

If you want a more reasonably priced cooler that will still perform excellent, I'd recommend the Windale 6 for $47. If you want to go all out, the Dark Rock Pro 4 for $90. This review compares the two coolers in various tests; As you can see obviously the Dark Rock performs better, but both actually have very similar performances, while the Windale costs $40 less.

Are you looking for static pressure or airflow optimized fans? These fans are pretty good for static pressure or airflow optimized

I just went to store and confirm, it is $14.99 for two fans. Bought 3 packs. This is in general price, you can get them online as well.

Blue: http://www.microcenter.com/product/423763/Air_Series_AF120_LED_Blue_Quiet_Edition_Case_Fan_Twin_Pack

Red: http://www.microcenter.com/product/423765/Air_Series_AF120_LED_Red_Quiet_Edition_Twin_Pack

Choose between Blue or Red. Mind that $14.99 is normal price for one of these fan and I never seen them go below $10/fan.

Edit: White on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6S13DE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

For those wanting a cheaper Noctua option with a different colour check out the NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM for $19.

Note there are no accessories and the fan cable is somewhat short, this also uses the older SSO bearing instead of newer SSO2 in the A-14 PWM, but it doesn't make much difference to the general user.

Would say for air flow 3,

Would get 2 of these for the front

Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM, High Performance Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 1500 RPM (140mm, Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_18RZDbC6Z7K7R

And replace the 120mm in back with this

Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 PWM, High Performance Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 1200 RPM (120mm, Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KF7PPY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AeSZDb4QPKB8Z

Look for the highest cfm fan that you can fit on your bucket. It will force circulate more air than your basic computer fan. More air flow = more evap = cooler. I went with this guy as an upgrade from last year, and it was quite the beast though my water pump gave out, which sucked. The fan worked as an amazing air circulator, so it wasn't all for naught. You could also bump up to the 14mm fan if you really want a bump up in performance and are okay with making some minor tweaks to your cooler bucket top

You can also try to have a fan direct on your cooler and another that you can aim attached to the output tube so that you can push the air in the direction that you would like.

The Dreamcast's fan is just loud. I replaced mine with a quiet noctua fan, like shown here: https://youtu.be/eOP3ZDUX7Y8?t=964

​

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dreamcast-Noctua-Fan-Mod-Kit-Fan-not-included/273555906598?hash=item3fb133e026:m:mUxo_Y-G4mG5Ye6q1-BeifA:rk:1:pf:0

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542691138&sr=8-1&keywords=B00NEMGCIA

What does your stats sheet say for Noctua NT-H1 ?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CQU14A

I added this 3-in-2 adapter to my R5. It works well for me, although I only put 2 HDDs in it, and my SSD. I did decide to upgrade the fan with a Noctua, to keep it nice and quiet. There are probably better adapters out there, but it works well enough for me.

I found that after some usage the door and filter began to rattle and make a little noise. Since the server sits in my living room with me, I took it out and attached the filter over the fan. Presto, no more noise.

Everytime I see this type of discussion, I have to chime in because I did it, but didn't realize you need these too, cgminer doesn't like not seeing a GPU fan speed. (connect it to the 92mm fan). Not sure if sgminer works without GPU fan speed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160851460913

I did the red mod before receiving my g10 kraken with a thermaltake water extreme 2.0 240mm Rad, so these are my observations (copied from my other comments)

-If you don't want to use zip ties and don't want to buy the adapter (really hard to tension zip ties well)

http://www.mckeemaker.com/2014/01/diy-asetek-water-cooling-on-r9-290.html

--You REALLY need VRM cooling, one fan on top with no VRM heatsink is not enough, try these

-You should also consider VRAM heatsinks as well like this or like this

-get one of these to connect a fan to the GPU header, cgminer doesn't like if it can't read the fan speed, though you can use -T arguement to get cgminer to work.

My 290 at 100% load now hovers at 50-55C and is really quiet with 2 SP120 Quiet Editions :)

This post reminds me that I should dust out the rad when I get home.

My friend and I just finished building his first PC, and went the route of using AIO coolers for both his CPU (i7-8700k) and GPU (ASUS GTX 1080 Turbo).

This was built in an NZXT S340 Elite case, which had some radiator restrictions that you do not have, so you have a little more leeway on your cooler choice, but the overall results are phenomenal.

For CPU, we decided on the NZXT Kraken X62 280mm AIO cooler. The performance is one of the best for overall cooling performance, and is a breeze to install, plus he really liked the design of the unit. This was mounted in the front of the case as an intake with a push fan config (we had no choice on this due to the case, but I don't know that we would have done it differently regardless). The EVGA CLC 280mm is another very good 280mm cooler, but this comes entirely down to design preference. There are plenty of other options if you prefer a 360mm rad instead, but you can do the research and decide which one you like best (IMO 280mm is the best for noise/cooling performance). Ultimately almost all AIO coolers are rebranded Asetek coolers anyway, so they have the same overall design with different names and RGB LEDs.

For the GPU, we removed the factory blower fan and installed an NZXT Kraken G12 bracket, and paired it with a Corsair H55 120mm AIO. One thing to be careful of, the G12 is mostly universal, however some aftermarket cards have different PCB layouts for the board itself, and the G12 MAY NOT WORK for your card. If you can look up your card and send me the info, I should be able to look up the PCB on google and determine if it will work for your card. Since you have more options on your install, you could instead change this to a 140mm radiator for better cooling performance, however this is not necessary unless you want very significant overclocks, and will be more expensive depending on the unit you choose. One note for the GPU portion of this swap, the AIO swap MUST be installed in one of two ways. Either 1) you use fan headers on the motherboard to control GPU temps, or 2) you must buy this adapter to control the AIO fan from your GPU. If you choose option 2, you can also buy this fan splitter to power the G12 fan (its a constant RPM fan, no speed control) as well. We personally went with option 2 and added the splitter as well to control everything from the GPU fan header using MSI afterburner (IMO, it is definitely the best way to go). The 120mm AIO was mounted in the rear as an exhaust with a push fan configuration.

Some other related notes: 1) Many individuals will shout from the rooftops that you MUST buy VRAM heatsinks because the G12's fan will not be able to adequately cool them. We did not buy heatsinks, and have zero temp issues at a +600 memory OC. I personally do not feel this to be necessary, but heatsinks are cheap, so if you want to be absolutely sure, feel free to grab them. 2) If you choose to go with a different GPU cooler, say like the NZXT Kraken X42 with RGB lighting or pump speed control, MAKE SURE you have enough USB headers on your motherboard! Most likely you will need to grab a internal USB hub like this to run them all.

I do not have any pictures on hand right now, but there are multiple Youtube videos you can look at to see what it all looks like and entails, just search for "Kraken G12" and you will see multiple videos detailing install procedures, cooling performance, and how it looks.

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. My friend has never been happier with his build, and the performance numbers are outstanding.

For 20$ you should get a cooler master hyper 212+, it has a bigger fan (120mm vs. 92) and will easily allow you to reach the max "on air" overclock of that chip. The stock heatsink will easily allow 3.4 GHZ, possibly more. throw in a coolermaster 4 pack of 120mm case fans, put one on the other side of the hyper 212+, and three in the case. all your cooling needs taken care of for 30$ shipped

for 30$ you might as well get 2x4GB ram. these ones are great

the case and psu are good quality, though you can get the antec bp550w, which is modular, for 10$ more.

170$ for that video card seems pretty standard, with 140$ being even better if you get the rebate to come through.

Reading reviews of that mobo, it seems that the compatible ram list is pretty small, and ram issues seem to happen a lot to that board. in the 100$ range there are several am3+ mobo's which would fit your needs. I suggest going with one that has 2 pci-e x16 slots and runs them at (x16, x8) in crossfire or sli. the one you currently have is x16,x4 which will give less performance if you sli/crossfire down the road. if you don't think you'll crossfire, don't worry about that.

These Cooler Masters are great on a budget. Very quiet and provide good air flow. They also come in a 140mm variation that I use as well. Great fans!

Try making a better light fixture with those lights, if you could get them all facing down towards the plant and in good spacing that would help a ton.

Get a piece of plywood or something to attach them to and hang it above the plants with these attached to the board with some eyelet screws.

Also using a few cheap pc fans would save a lot of room compared to that fan.

I just got this 4 pack of 120 mm fans and am waiting for it to get here. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O8I474/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: It was $12 when I bought and now is $15.

Custom loop for a single GPU is generally not a good use of money. A hybrid mod is going to have identical performance and cost you less.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computers-Accessories/NZXT-RL-KRG10-W1-G10-GPU-Adapter-Kraken-White/B00ITTFNW4

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Performance-Liquid-Cooler-Radiator/dp/B009VV56TY

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Electronics-Photo/noctua-NT-H1-Noctua-NT-H1-thermal-compound/B002CQU14A

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Fans-Cooling/120mm-Vardar-F2-120-Fan-EK/B00SIZHZPC

I can't think of a way for a heatsink to "go bad." It sounds like it's thermally throttling, probably due to dust. If you take it apart, clean out the dust with canned air, and replace the thermal paste (here is some good thermal paste) it will probably be fine.

Well Apple does this thing with their products where they sacrifice adequate cooling for aesthetics. They rather sell products that look really good but thermal throttle when trying to do anything challenging in cool ambient temps, or throttle doing anything in warm/hot ambient temps. This one kid in one of my courses this past semester had a Macbook pro that he would sometimes edit his highlight clips [he played football (soccer here in the states) I think] and it would throttle almost immediately when editing/compressing the video.





Anyway, here's what you can do:




Your cheapest option is to buy a cooling pad with fans on it to get more air-flow where it is needed. Although Macbooks do not have air-intake on the bottom, it should help at least a little bit.





Your second option is more expensive than buying a cooling pad but would be the most effective as well as the most difficult to do. This would be taking it apart and reapplying the thermal interface material as well as thoroughly cleaning the heat-sink and fan of all dust and debris. You'd need to buy tools necessary to get the job done (I'd recommend the iFixit pro tech toolkit, it is one of the best investments I've ever made) and some good thermal paste like Noctua NT-H1. Here is a step by step guide to do so






Third option is the most expensive, which is to buy a new laptop. Preferably not a macbook as Apple still does not provide adequate cooling on their devices for warmer climates, although modern CPUs are much more efficient now so it might work fine.

sure, turns out I have 11, but room for 4 more.

warning, its not pretty, and the pictures are slightly better than potato quality. I don't have a lot of room for lighting equipment and camera gear by it :)

basically, I picked up this case around the year 2000, I had several drives in my main pc so I wanted all those bays, and at the time, all those fans to keep my rig cool.

years later, the thing was noisy and I wanted something else, replaced it with a different gaming case that I like much more, and is much more quiet nearly silent which is nice since this is in our living. I passed the to the server where it is much more at home. these are the drive enclosures I am using, they are nothing special and as you can see the drives are packed relatively tight. those puny little fans aren't much, but they keep the temp alarm in stablebits scanner from going off.

Easy but spendy: https://www.amazon.com/ICY-DOCK-FatCage-MB153SP-B-Module/dp/B009HIMZ3G

Less expensive but not hotswapable: https://www.amazon.com/EverCool-Dual-Drive-Triple-Cooling/dp/B0032UUGF4

I painted all of the faceplates to match the case as close as I possibly could. All of the front panel components were black:

EverCool Dual 5.25 in. Drive Bay to Triple 3.5 in. HDD Cooling Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032UUGF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ybi2Cb4W2XVGV

Sabrent 74-in-1 3.5" Internal Flash Media Card Reader/Writer with USB Port, Black (CR-USNT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAKX34E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g7g2Cb0S7E9C2

I just added this to my tower, it seemed like the best trade off of 2x5.25 bays for 3x3.5 HDDs, has a fan and removable/washable filter. Fitment was perfect, also comes with a bracket for 4x2.5 drives if you wanted. If you need hotswap ability though I'd look at something like what you have, or I thought of buying this one.

http://www.amazon.com/EverCool-Dual-Drive-Triple-Cooling/dp/B0032UUGF4

there are many options, thats just one.

fans fans fans.... and vrm pads or heatsinks.

https://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=511f8ylsGJL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR148%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=WYWE5E90A3FFJ3577JN8

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17467/thr-178/Fujipoly_ModRight_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_Blister_Pack_-_12_Sheet_-_200_x_150_x_05_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1797

And a link to it:

https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Liquid-Cooler-Radiator-120mm-Fan/dp/B009VV56TY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=corsair+h55&qid=1567193031&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I have one of these water cooled all in one deals on my amazon wishlist. Just waiting so see how the temps go and for funds.

Water cool it!

Otherwise, yeah the bigger the fan the quieter. And Noctua makes some pretty quiet fans. Look for the decibel rating of your existing fan to compare. You could also slow the fan.

Of course, how cool does it have to be and how do you know when it is too hot?

Server before a recent upgrade

Server before a recent upgrade

My old system was rather simple and straight forward. It was a dual Xeon workstation motherboard (standard ATX) installed in a Rosewill 4U Server Chassis. The center rail perfectly fit the radiators of two Corsair H55s. The bracket works extremely well for the LGA1366.

Server after a hasty upgrade (not finished)

Center Rail

Back

Front

I upgraded my system about two weeks ago. Not finished yet - but it's functional. Since the new motherboard was an oversized EATX (13.2 x 13 inches) - I had to modify the case to get everything to fit. I noticed with 18 sticks of memory, the heat was a bit higher than the previous build. So, I have the radiators sandwiched with fans on both sides. This increased the airflow significantly and the fans are 120mm, so rather quiet.

However, with the fan sandwich, the center rail needed to be pushed back 1.5 inches. In the photo, I only pushed the rail back one inch so far. One of the sandwiches fit (the rear one), but you will notice that the one closest to camera isn't yet fitting. So, I need to pull everything out and drill new holes a half inch closer to the front.

The other thing I didn't realize is that when mounting standard ATX power supplies with an EATX motherboard, the chassis will need to have the power supply suspended above the motherboard and not on the side. You will see that the motherboard takes up a portion of the area where the power supply should go. So, I cut a hole above the i/o plate and moved the power supply mounting bracket that came with the case. Surprisingly, it holds extremely well and has nearly 1 inch of clearance between the power supply and one of the CPU water blocks and memory.

I also plan on 3d printing a shroud that will channel the air from the center rail out into the giant hole in the back and adding two 90mm fans as a proper exhaust.

Heres the build:

CPU: $135 : e5 2670 v1 (x2)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0163AWD96/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used


MOBO: $ 361 : Asus Z9PA-D8

http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Intel-LGA-Motherboard-Z9PA-D8-ASMB6-IKVM/dp/B00BRF7DAC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461960263&sr=8-1&keywords=z9pa-d8

Ram: $305 : Kingston 16gb ddr3 ecc (x4)

http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=W64GER16K&c=CJ

Case: $94 : Rosewill 4U Rack

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147155&cm_re=4u_case-_-11-147-155-_-Product

CPU Coolers : $46 : Cooler Master Hyper T4 (x2)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/?tag=pcpapi-20

Storage: $64 : Crucial 240gb ssd

http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-BX200-240GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B016JREGAC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1461961476&sr=1-1&keywords=crucial+ssd

PSU: $99 : EVGA Supernova 750

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1461965314&sr=1-1&keywords=evga+750w


Total: $1104.00

Here you go! They don’t get any better than these.

Noctua 140mm Premium Quiet Quality Fan with AAO Frame Technology (NF-A14 PWM)

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AquUBbAYX9Y2Q

Noctua is pretty much to go to for fans from what ive seen. Basic no LEDs and in my opinion faily ugly but they are huge among people I've spoken.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VKVZ1A/ref=s9_acsd_al_bw_c_x_1_w
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CP6QLY6/ref=s9_acsd_al_bw_c_x_1_w

Edit: links and such

For those wondering the model:

5x AF120 (red LED)

tbh, u can find most fans around this price range. This particular one just offers a bit more with anti vibration and all that to reduce sounds and stuff.

As reference, i got two 120mm corsair with LED for $18 here

Also, brands dont impact asssss much in fans as fans are pretty simple, so less things to mess up in manufacturing

Agreed; was just funny how Strawberry 644 told OP it would be nice but simultaneously useless ;)


In any case, this would be affordable and complement the lighted theme:


Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212


Fans for Heatsink (x2): Corsair Air Series AF120


I have the same (except Red LEDs since it matches my rig more so) and it looks amazing (and of course temps are down).


Edit: Crappy picture of mine

Congrats on your build. I'd highly recommend doing some cable management to route your cables behind the motherboard. It'll help with airflow and it should be relatively easy to do.

Regarding fans, Noctuas are always a great choice. I'd also recommend looking into the Corsair AF Series. Slightly louder, bit cheaper, and you have the option of LEDs. Regarding RAM, the B450 should be able to overclock your RAM to 3000 Mhz without much trouble so I'd definitely recommend it since it'll give you a nice performance boost. Can also OC your 2600x a good bit as well!

I have this case as well. Just wondering if I could get [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00F6S13DE&pd_rd_r=FXF2CF9YPEZQYTE561SH&pd_rd_w=WmDFM&pd_rd_wg=NzSiG&psc=1&refRID=FXF2CF9YPEZQYTE561SH) fans as I could get two for the price of one. Or if I should just get the 140mms

A pair of Noctua 140mm redux fans will be nearly the same price at $18.95 each:

​

https://www.amazon.ca/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-Redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540968293&sr=8-5&keywords=noctua+140mm

The pwm version is backordered until the 24th but you can purchase it for the same price.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00KF7PPY4/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Edit: There seems to be a few other models on sale. The names are links to Noctua's site so you can see the specs. The prices link to amazon.

140mm

NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM - $14.95($7 Off)

NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM - $14.95($7 Off)

92mm

NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM - $10.95($7 off)


80mm

NF-R8 redux-1800 PWM - $9.95($5 Off)

Thats a chunk of change for a watercooler if you're not overclocking and using windows. You'd be fine with a smaller single or double generic cooler to save quite a few quid!

None of the NZXT utilities will work under MacOS, so no LED control and pump control - and as with any water cooler on a hackintosh, you'll have to plug the fans into the motherboard and let the motherboard control the speed as it heats up (you can set your own curves in the BIOS).

Also - those case fans you chose have LEDs too - but no way to control them under MacOS - I would HIGHLY recommend Noctua fans instead of NZXT - I alway use the quietest ones I can find. I even replaced the 2 Corsair water cooler fans in my rig (mounted in the front grill), with these Noctua's and put one in the rear exit fan in my case - creates a nice, quiet, flow until the BIOS kicks it into high gear. They aren't as fast or push as much air, but great for my 8700k overclocked (Gigabyte's bios preset) to 4.8ghz all day long. At idle, they shut off completely, under normal use, they ramp up to about 800 rpm, then go higher as it gets hotter into the mid 60's, then full tilt at about 75c

I don't have a TB card on mine, but AFAIK, hotswapping is still a no go on MacOS, and I think its still runs at Thunderbolt 2 speeds. I could be wrong there, but last I remember, it was that way.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484517467&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+140mm

With a $1400 build, don't skimp on $4 fans. Your corsair fan is hot garbage in terms of cfm-to-dbA (52 cfm and 25 dbA). Here's some much better 120mm fans:


1 74 cfm, 22.5 dbA, $4
2 +PWM
3 74 cfm, 15 dbA, 50% more silent
4 110 cfm, 37 dbA, 2.5 times louder
5 241 cfm, this will blow the components out of your case, provides extreme cooling, but 62 dbA, extremely loud


Here's good 140mm options:


1 Cheap, 61 cfm and 16 dbA
2 90 cfm and 18 dbA, way better but more expensive
3 159 cfm and 41 dbA, fastest 140mm fan listed on pcpartpicker


Both of these PSUs are both better and cheaper than yours: 1 2

Hi!

Sorry to hear that. You are talking about the parts fan, yes?

Which Fang are you using (Thingiverse link?) Picture?

The original is probably a 40x10mm (that's 40mm square, 10mm thick).

Here's the one I recommend (a bit pricey but one of the best out there and quiet as heck, and a SIX year warranty so it's not some Chinese cr@p)

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA

or you can upgrade (if it fits, you'll have to measure) to this:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-FLX-premium-quality-quiet/dp/B072JK9GX6

That one is 20mm thick but moves more air, usually what you want in a Fang.

One other thought - How did it fry? C'mon, fess up, we all screw the pooch sometimes... :-)

It's a right of passage to put a hex wrench into a fan and snap the blades, you know, LOL.

PuterPro

The safest thing is a properly-sized resistor on the 5V rail. If you don't do that, the PSU may appear to run fine without it initially and then randomly shut down, reset, etc., potentially ruining prints. You need to keep drawing 1-2 amps at 5V to keep things happy. If you really want ideas for things to put on 5V that are actually useful:

• 5V LEDs
  
• Raspberry Pi
  
• a powered USB hub
  
• USB webcam
  
• 5V fan(s) to cool stepper drivers/control board
  
  Source: Have repurposed several AT and ATX PSUs for bench supplies and reprap power supplies.

Magnets go in the four struts. It's printing now. I bought two Noctua 40x10mm 5v fans.

No the Noctua is 5V for hot end and extruder. Here Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4X10-FLX 5V) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA you can also "upgrade" to a sunon with higher airflow to maintain better nozzle pressure https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7927772 I put finger quotes because not sure quite yet if the higher rate Sunon performs better.

Sure: Noctua fan = $13.95 shipped; cheap fans for $8 shipped.

Well your CPU's TDP is 54W, which is quite a bit higher than the 35W usually recommended for passive cooling. You can certainly try it, and you won't break anthing as long as you're monitoring your temperatures closely. If you see them start to climb past 90C under load, it's time to power down and plug that fan back in.

Your CPU will thermal throttle itself at 100C to protect itself from damage, so don't worry about breaking anything.
However, holding your CPU at high temperatures for hours isn't good for it. Aim for 80C or below. If you can't sustain that, you shouldn't passively cool with your current cooler.

>The stock cooler is pretty loud, so I would like to unplug the fan and cool it just with the heatsink.

A better move might be to get an aftermarket heatsink. If you don't need that much cooling, consider a Cryorig C7 or something similar. Using a larger, quieter fan and larger heatsink will get you the best of both worlds, with less noise and lower temps.

Here is a 47$ fan for 7$: https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Contact-Cooling-RR-212L-16PR-R1/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480083097&sr=8-2&keywords=hyper+212
On the page it's 21$ but if you use this mail in rebates you can get 15$ more: http://www.mirhelp.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Promo-_72116-RR-212L-16PR-R1.pdf
I just bought this very fan for this very cpu, but I can't actually tell with if it's good enough for overclocking, since I don't know really anything on the subject. Also, mail in rebates aren' like by everyone, so consider this.

Looks like a really good build. I will put part links in the end of the post. Here's some tips to save a bit of money if you're open to it:

1. Power supply: 550 watts is a great amount for this system. You could save some money by passing on the 80+ gold rating (although it's great to have a super efficient power supply, you don't need 80+ gold) and get a power supply that has an 80+ bronze efficiency rating. A power supply being fully modular isn't a must either, for me at least. A good semi-modular pick would be the Rosewill Hive 550, I have it and it has has sleeved black cables for about $55. If you want to save more money on the PSU, though, the EVGA basic 550W unit has all black cables and goes for around $43. Otherwise, the 600B from EVGA is a great 600W unit for around $50. Changing your power supply with these options might save you around $30-$40.
   
2. RAM: there are 16GB kits out there that are cheaper than the ones you selected, some are even in red to match your color scheme. I know there is a kit from Corsair that goes for around $80, so that might save you $20-$30 there. Otherwise, if you can't afford 16GB at the beginning of the build, 8GB will suffice until you upgrade. Just make sure if you get 8GB, get a single stick so you can throw another one in later. 8GB instead of 16 GB may save you $30-$40.
   
3. CPU cooler: The i5 6500 comes with its own stock cooler, so you can save around $25 by not paying for a CPU cooler right away. Otherwise, the 212 Evo is a superb cooler and also comes in a red LED fan version for a few bucks more :D
   
4. GPU: The GTX 1060 is a great option for a video card, but the RX 480 from AMD might be able to save you a few bucks right now and down the road. When you look to purchase another monitor, options with FreeSync (AMD adaptive sync) are normally cheaper than monitors with G-Sync (Nvidia adaptive sync). Adaptive sync monitors will make your gameplay smoother. Also, if you get a motherboard that supports crossfire, you can throw another RX 480 in your rig in the future. I will recommend you a motherboard for this at the end, and it won't cost you much more than your current one. An RX 480 8GB starts at around $230. Also, RX 480's are said to be better in DX12, another "future proofer".
   
5. Motherboard (minor): H110 is a budget chipset, and a Micro ATX one will save you a bit of money. BUT, if you want another RX 480, you'll need a motherboard with 2 PCIe slots to house them. An ATX motherboard will fill your case better, not look as awkward as a mATX one, and will let you put another RX 480 card in your rig in the future. A good ATX motherboard that would work for this build would be the Asus B150-PLUS for $95. This may be a bit expensive, but you could spend your saved money on this part. I highly suggest you exercise this option.
   
6. Storage: if 250GB is enough for you, then you could save some money by not getting a Samsung SSD. An SSD comparable to this would be the Crucial MX300 275GB for around $80. Also, the SanDisk z400s is $75 and is 256GB. If you want more storage, though, I would recommend a 120GB SSD like the PNY CS1311 for $40 and a 1TB hard drive like the WD Blue for $50.
   
   
   TL;DR: cut back on PSU efficiency ratings, look for different 16GB or even 8GB RAM kits, ditch CPU cooler (or keep if you want), get an RX 480 for saving money on future monitors, you can also put another RX 480 in your build in the future with a different motherboard; an ATX motherboard would fill your case and add capability for a second RX 480, a non-Samsung SSD could save you some money, while for $100, you can get an SSD and a 1TB hard drive.
   
   
   Links:
   “Basic” EVGA 550W
   Rosewill Hive-550
   EVGA 600B
   Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO LED
   RX 480 -choose which one you like
   Asus B150-PLUS
   Crucial MX 300 275GB
   SanDisk Z400S 256GB
   WD Blue 1TB
   
   
   I hope my advice helped you and that this didn't overwhelm you. If you save enough money, you could throw in a red LED PWM fan, which adjusts its speed based on your computer's needs. You could maybe even throw in an LED strip or two. I had a lot of fun making this, thanks for posting :D
   

If you have the extra money get a Noctua. They make different version depending on how much space you have. Very high-quality parts. The mounting system is very nice and they will provide new hardware for new mounting designs when they come out.

Here are a few of their popular ones. They make more so check out their website.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539206864&sr=1-3&keywords=NH-D15

https://www.amazon.com/noctua-D-Type-Premium-Cooling-NH-D15S/dp/B00XUVGLEU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539207013&sr=1-3&keywords=NH-D15S

https://www.amazon.com/noctua-NH-U12S-Noctua-CPU-Cooler/dp/B00C9EYVGY

Those are all kind of overkill for the 3600. It doesn't run hot at all, and a relatively cheap air cooler would be sufficient to max out the OC potential on that chip.

Liquid cooling, in general, is a worse value as air coolers will typically provide similar performance for less money. If you want a beefier cooler, I would recommend the Scythe Mugen 5. It performs nearly as well as the D15, but it's about $30-40 cheaper and should be more than enough for the 3600

The best cheap mid end cooler is the Scythe Mugan 5 Rev B for $45-50. The next step up would be the $55 Thermalright Macho Rev C. Both coolers weigh about the same same (Without the fan: 720g for Thermalright vs 750g for Scythe) but the Thermalright has a 140mm fan at 1500RPM vs 120mm at 1200RPM on the Scythe so the extra airflow should help it pull ahead a bit but you should be happy with either while saving a good $30-40 over the more expensive DRP4 or NH-D15 (I own a NH-D15 btw).

mugan 5 rev B review

https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/8320/scythe-mugen-5-rev-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html

https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static/forever/images/userbuild/259103.3b8b4d18dbe439a882e26d30bb89d870.1600.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77

macho rev b (there isn't a rev C review, the main difference is the fan is +200RPM for the new model)

https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6930/thermalright-macho-rev-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html

https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static/forever/images/userbuild/266239.ac2d58e6eab1849f1c6e66614515768e.1600.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S5VHRXM

BTW, both the DRP4 and NH-D15 will run within 1-2C and 1-2dB of eachother so you are mostly paying for looks and warranty with the Noctua having a 7yr and DRP4 having a 3yr.

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/be-quiet-dark-rock-pro-4/7.html

Any of the coolers you were looking at or I listed will all be effectively silent and all will be able to OC to about the same levels. The CPU itself is $185-200 so I cannot recommend a $80+ cooler and if I were to make a new build right now I would stick with the Mugan or Macho unless I went for a i9 9900k/R9 3900x. I don't recommend watercooling but if you wanted it you should look at the new Arctic Liquid Freezer II which is $90 for 280mm and $76 for 240mm and recent reviews put them above all other 240mm and 280mm coolers.

https://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/james-dawson/arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-all-in-one-cpu-cooler-review/5/

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-280-all-in-one-cpu-cooler,6376-2.html

I’d save a bit of money and go with a b450 board unless you absolutely need the pcie 4.0. this MSI tomahawk is good or this Gaming pro Carbon if you want wifi built in. The other things I’d swap is your ssd for an intel 660p. It’s cheaper and faster.

As for a cooler, with the black theme you’ve got going a dark rock pro 4 would look pretty sweet in there, just check compatibility with your memory for clearance.

Noctua Redux 1700 RPM’s are $14. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6

You can’t go wrong with a Noctua air cooler. You seem like a grown up and don’t care about color, so the u14 or d14 would be a good buy.

Noctua website have MB compatibility lists for all their coolers.

I have a be quiet dark rock pro 4 purely because it was in black.

As for fans,
These are my favorite 120mm pwms

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6

Spend a little extra for pwm. You’ll get a much more control and a quieter PC.

Also, 158mm clearance from the base and of the MB to the side panel? Or something else?

Yep, that’s exactly what I did. I bought a 5-pack Deepcool RF120 fans that i controlled using Asus Aura. I also bought some LED strips to add some effect. Links below:

Fans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HN199YJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Strips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MM5BQ1N?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Are you pushing on the center of the fan where the bearings are to stop the noise? If so, then mounting it on top will give you the same issue if not worse, as the middle part that I assume you're "pushing back into place" would be facing down when exhausting air out the top, so gravity would be working against you. I guess it would still be worth a shot to try it in a different orientation, but I had that issue on one of the NZXT fans that came with my S340 Elite and it needed a replacement.

If you end up needing a replacement I would recommend checking out the Arctic F12/F14 fans if you just want something cheap and don't need dat RGB. They're better than stock Fractal case fans in both airflow and noise, MUCH better than the Coolermaster RGB fans that came on my AIO and if I remember correctly the NZXT fans I had on my S340 Elite were louder than the Fractals.

I was skeptical at first with the low price, but I had used one of the Arctic GPU coolers before and it was top notch, these were no different. There are definitely better performing fans like the Noctua's, but for a rear exhaust fan I don't think it's necessary to splurge. They make quiet, solid fans, and they're pretty much the cheapest out there.

If you do want to get some RGB bling in your case without breaking the bank I would check out the Deepcool RF120's. They cost a little more and noise levels on the Deepcools are close to the F12's, but they do move a little more air, at 56.5CFM vs 53 CFM with the F12's.

Both of these fans can be bought in packs with 4-pin fan splitters/hubs, and have a noise profile that doesn't "stand out" which is the most important thing IMO. Moving air is always going to make some noise but what you want to avoid is fans that have a strange pitch or a distinct buzzing, clicking, whirring etc that stands out.

DEEPCOOL RF120M 5IN1, 5x120mm RGB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN199YJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These are the ones I got. Not addressable rgb but they move air really well and are affordable.

Says Asus aura sync but the ones that shipped works with Msi, gigabyte as well. There actually a fourth company that it works with, just don't remember right now off hand.

Price History

• DEEPCOOL RF120 5IN1, 5x120mm RGB PWM Fans with Fan Hubs,   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.4/5 from 38 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
• Deepcool (RGB 200 EX) Motherboard Controlled RGB LED Strip (12V   ^PureLink
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
  _
  Put those prices in Checkmate.
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fcdufiu%2Ffans_deepcool_rf120_5pack_rgb_pwm_fans_12v4pin%2Fetwfmum%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

I suggest these fans as they are cheap and what I bought. Haven't tried them our yet, but they look good and are cheap for a pack of 5:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07HN199YJ/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For monitors maybe check these out:

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/bz8j4D/msi-optix-mag271r-270-1920x1080-165-hz-monitor-optix-mag271r

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/yWhKHx/viewsonic-vx2758-c-mh-270-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-vx2758-c-mh

For the ram, here is a white and RGB 16gb model for ram for $105:

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/Zz3H99/team-t-force-delta-rgb-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-tf4d416g3200hc16cdc01

Goodluck :)!

Here are some budget RGB fans to help fill out the case.


I have five in my O11 Dynamic now and 4 more going in when my radiators show up.

These should work, they have the Mystic Light logo, and connect to the 4-pin 12V RGB header.

The 3-pin 5v header is for addressable RGB.

My bad. I write in Word first and that happens frequently when I copy over cause Reddit is whack. I usually catch it.

These are Deepcool with a flow of 56.5, which is pretty much average. With 4 fans, it’s overkill. I think you’re vastly over estimating how much cooling you need especially if you are using a CPU cooler.

They’ll be more than enough. Same CFL as the Corsair LEDs I use and I have similar build for my personal and it’s basically arctic winter in there. Even for overclocking.

All the Youtubers have done their fan tests and after 2 fans, you hit pretty hard diminishing marginal returns. 3 is solid and I use 4 for looks and in case one fails or something.

The Arctic P12 PWM fans are pretty popular if you want non-colored ones. Also 50-ish CFL.

Good luck with everything!

https://www.amazon.ca/DEEPCOOL-Compatible-Controlled-Motherboard-Controller/dp/B07HN199YJ/

Professional PC builder/technician here. I monitor the market's prices all day, every day.

If you want a temporary and affordable upgrade, your motherboard is running on the AM2 socket. Check your motherboard's model number (Usually in between the PCI slots) and look up CPU compatibility. Assuming you're not running some crappy E-Machine, your socket shouldn't be integrated, and you can pick up something like an AMD Athlon X4 and have a significant boost in power.

If you're looking to fully upgrade, pick up an LGA1150 motherboard. If you want quality and don't want to completely break your bank, go with MSI. They're an awesome mix between affordability and features. For a processor, most i3s on that socket are pretty damn powerful, and cheap. 120 bucks will buy you enough power to do -anything- that 450 you have there will need. If you want long-term, pick up an i5, about 220 bucks will take you miles away from the CPU you have now. The i7 is endgame, it's worth it if you can afford it, but not necessary by any means.

Do not waste your time picking up any motherboard older than an LGA1150. They're the same price as the older LGA1155s, unless you're buying used. Don't buy used mobos, more often than not you'll regret it.

The last thing to consider is your power supply. You're making a serious upgrade with a new processor and mobo, and you need to take power into consideration. Since you seen new to this, Let's make it simple. Google "Power Supply Wattage Calculator" and type in your specs. Go 150 watts above that, spend a lot of money on it and get something nice. Your PSU is your computer's heatbeat, you don't want it failing and killing everything else you have. Buy a nice one the first time, and it will last years and years. Try and save 25 bucks by going off-brand and lower watt, suffer possible thousands of dollars in damage depending on what you have in there.

Edit: I forgot to mention, You're going to be stepping up from DDR2 to DDR3 ram. Don't go too crazy on ram, it's all pretty similar on the base levels. Corsair makes some nice sticks, Patriot does fine and affordable but you really need to look up compatibility with it, and Crucial makes some nice stuff that's affordable. If I were to build a low level affordable PC today, my baseline would sit here:

CPU: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-4130-FCLGA-Processor-BX80646I34130/dp/B00EUUKVXM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397850929&sr=8-1&keywords=i3

Mobo: http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-Motherboards-B85-G41-MATE/dp/B00D12OASW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851005&sr=1-2&keywords=lga1150

RAM: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-1333MHz-KHX1333C9D3B1K2-8G/dp/B004DDI0IE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851050&sr=1-1&keywords=DDR3+RAM

PSU: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Bronze-Certified-Supply/dp/B008RJZQSW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851110&sr=1-2&keywords=power+supply

For the sake of maintaining a cheap build, you can use the heatsink that comes with the processor. If you're feeling moderately fancy, just grab something cheap like this, they work great.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851211&sr=1-1&keywords=LGA+1150+heatsink

Re-use the optical drive from your old PC, re-use the fans. If you need cables, use monoprice.com

Looks good. Go with the Nvidia build if you can. I'd still recommend putting the OS on a SSD instead of the Barracudas.

Also, make sure that Hyper 212 cooler will actually fit in that case. It's a huge CPU cooler. A very good one, but won't fit in every case, so check the specs on both.

If it turns out to be too large, I've found the Hyper T4 to be a good alternative.

If you plan on gaming with that machine, the best thing to do is sink almost all of your money into a graphics card. That CPU can still hold its weight. Maybe get an nvidia gtx 1070 (<$400) or an AMD rx 480(<$250)(two top of the line cards right now). If you go with the RX 480, then I would suggest spending the rest of your money on an SSD. You can get a 500GB ssd for roughly $150 (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-2-5-Inch-MZ-75E500B/dp/B00OBRE5UE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473798740&sr=1-1&keywords=500gb+ssd). Do this, and you will feel a large performance increase! Also, your processor is overclockable. If I were you , I would get an after market CPU cooler and overclock it to get a little bit more performance out of it. Some like this (https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473798818&sr=1-2&keywords=hyper+212+evo)


To recap

Upgrade plan one:

Nvidia GTX 1070 ($400) (More powerful than the rx 480, should run all titles close to MAX)

256gb SSD ($100)



Upgrade Plan two:

RX 480 ($250) (Pretty strong GPU, should run all titles no problem with some settings needing to be turned down)

500gb SSD($150)

Hyper T4 CPU cooler ($40) - only get this if you want to overclock your CPU which you definitely should!

You look good to go man. Only thing I would add is that you have an unlocked CPU in your partpicker. Why not overclock? Get a cooler for that sucker and send it to the moon.

here's my cooler for my 4690k cheap, quiet and efficient.

This might be a good fit for your friend.

Cooler Master Hyper RR-T4-18PK-R1 CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes, INTEL/AMD with AM4 Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_idVQAbPXWGWFA

This should fit http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451950902&sr=8-1&keywords=hyper+t4

My friend has it and has average temps, it also works on AM3+ and all LGA sockets

Noctua cpu coolers are pretty much worth every penny, but for budget:

Cooler Master Hyper T4 CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes RR-T4-18PK-R1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_k30avb0PCJ72P

I have a heat issue. Build specs:

• MSI 970 GAMING ATX AMD Motherboard
  
• Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2133 MHz
  
• EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0
  
• AMD FD8350FRHKBOX FX-8350 Processor
  
• Corsair CS Series 750 Watt ATX CS750M
  
• Cooler Master Hyper T2
  
  Idle temperatures were 44° C with the stock cooler so I replaced it with the T2. The case purchased didn't allow a T4 to fit in it - it was about half an inch too high.
  
  With the T2 idle temperatures dropped to 26° C while the cores are running @ 1400 Mhz.
  
  No overclocking has been left in place; it was accidentally enabled for a short period. However, when my son starts playing games he finds himself at 76° C and the thermal protection kicks in, locking the box up.
  
  I made sure to remove the plastic on the bottom of the T2, where contact is made between the cooler pipes and the CPU. I made sure to evenly spread the thermal paste over the chip. I've ensured that the cooler is tightly clamped to the CPU.
  
  Now this board has an "OC Genie" and he did activate it, however, I uninstalled the software overclocker (MSI Command Center) and turned off the OC Genie in the BIOS. I reset the power supply levels to default, as well as anything else I could find in the BIOS. (I don't do overclocking at this point in my life. If I want a 5% boost in speed, I pay for it.)
  
  There are two fans on the case, one on the front and one on the back. The computer is currently in a corner area with little to no ventilation, so that's the next thing we're changing. However, I thought it might be useful to ask for advice from all of you.
  
  Any advice on what I can do to help cool this thing? I know AMDs tend to run much hotter than Intels, but this seems ridiculous. In general I see acceptable ranges of 20° C to 60° C. Would you guys agree that's an acceptable range?
  
  If necessary we can buy a new case and put the T4, or whatever recommended cooler is there, on the PC.
  
  Thanks.
  

This is your problem. Get an aftermarket on it, or turn off the preset overclock. I've used one before, but my hand-made 4.4ghz-4690k is stable as all hell and only goes up to the mid 80's. I use one of these. Understand these are much larger than stock so make sure your case has space.

Noctua is probably the best for silence.

NF-F12

NF-A14

They'll provide great cooling at very low RPMs, which render them virtually inaudible.

Edit: I can't provide any input into corsairs fans as i don't own them, but after owning [noctuas] for a while, the color scheme doesn't bother me one bit when i get confused if my system is even powered on :p. Gotta get close and listen for the harddisk.

I've still got the nocuta fans I purchased in 2010 in my main rig. They never get noisy over time, and while are the definition of "not cheap" are also the prime example of "buy a good tool once"

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-Premium-Cooling/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1X0E4S87BX5XK&keywords=noctua+140mm&qid=1568256975&sprefix=noctua+%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-3

As u/OC2k16 said I use an aftermarket CPU cooler.

Started with a Huge Zalman air cooler: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zalman-Heatsink-135mm-CNPS9900-Blue/dp/B0046Y79HS

I then upgraded/sidegraded (similar temps, quieter) to a NZXT Kraken https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computers-Accessories/NZXT-X41-140mm-Kraken-Water-Cooler/B00MA5V72I/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491423661&sr=1-1&keywords=kraken+x41

I can't remember the exact thermal paste, it may be MX2. Currently running at around 37c with chrome, steam spotify etc running. Under full load it doesn't go above 50c.

Also, your case/cooler fans make a huge difference. I run 6x 140mm Noctua fans:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-case-fan/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491423889&sr=1-6&keywords=noctua

2x on the radiator in push pull, 1 on roof, one on base and 2 in my intake. Case fans are all controlled by a Bitfenix Recon fan controller, running 3rd party controller software called Phoebetria. PC is silent when not under load.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BitFenix-Recon-controllers-Active-Sensor/dp/B008BZTL38/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491423992&sr=1-1&keywords=bitfenix+recon

I have all of this inside a Fractal Design R4 case. Amazing fan locations, space, cable management and it has dampening material to reduce noise.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fractal-Design-Define-Case-Computer/dp/B009XLMYJC/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491424131&sr=1-1&keywords=R4

Case shot: http://imgur.com/cJcVlO7

Controller : http://imgur.com/5hmQidi

Brown, $21. Black $24. Does math work differently where you're from?

You might also be interested in these red AF120 Quiet Edition fans.

[I'm not editing in case you already read my last comment]

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-AF120-Edition-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1409284029&sr=8-12&keywords=120mm+case+fan

I should clarify - they should be the LEDs in the outer housing so that the light is static instead of the new design where the blades themselves are lit and spinning which causes the lines to appear.

This: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524496233&sr=8-3&keywords=led+case+fan&dpID=51VHmYAnSkL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

VS This: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pressure-Circular-Anti-Vibration-CL-F038-PL12BU/dp/B00VRKVGP0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524496451&sr=8-4&keywords=led+case+fan&dpID=41yx9RsGA-L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456937258&sr=8-2&keywords=red+120mm+fan

Wink wink

Plenty of reviews... https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486656893&sr=8-1&keywords=af120

Corsair ML120 Pro radiator fans - $24.99 each

Corsair AF120 everywhere else - 2 pack for $18.39

Don't use ML120 Pro fans as case fans, they are cut and designed to push air through objects, for example, a radiator. Now, you CAN use them as case fans, but here let me know you my setup. I use ML140 Pros Reds on my radiator, and AF140 Red for exhaust.

My setup .. I am purchasing another AF120 red for the bottom.

With your case.. it's a silent designed case, the intakes are restricted, which is probably why you see higher temperatures. What I would do if I was in your shoes. I would mount AF (airflow) fans in the front to intake cool air, mount my radiator up top with 2 pressure fans like the SP or ML series (ML preferred) pushing out and through the radiator to exit the case, and 1 AF fan for exhaust. If you have a spot on the bottom for a fan, 1 AF fan down there as close to the GPU as you can get it would be perfect, but set it to a profile with a moderate speed so it's not creating too much turbulence with the front intake fans. The key is you want a steady flow, not a bunch of air twirling in the case.

Corsair AF120's are really good fans

they also have a non-LED version if you don't like disco desktops

probably going to have a tough time selling those fans fyi

I use these https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479911180&sr=8-3&keywords=corsair+fan

yes, but id recommend getting a couple of intake fans: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1ERIBJ66BK9UO&keywords=120+mm+case+fans&qid=1556200305&s=gateway&sprefix=120+mm+case%2Caps%2C276&sr=8-4-spell

corsair is a reliable brand, and these are currently on sale for $20 ($50-$30)

Hence the noise lol

Edit: guess I was mistaken, it was more like 45$:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6S0XJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L64NFYC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! So a couple things, since that photo, I've rotated the cpu cooler to send air out the back and its been working great. It's cooling an i7-7700k and the highest temp I got to during a stress test last night was 66c at stock voltage and speed. I'm getting a kraken x52 to replace that though, so things should be even better. I'll probably mount that radiator to the top if it fits.

This is the ram I have, which I actually might be selling soon. They work great. Haven't had any issues and I haven't even enabled the xmp profile yet.

Two of the fans on the right came with the case. The two corsair fans you see in the photo are the AF120 models I believe (they glow red). I used to have a Fury X so I had that radiator mounted to the top and used to just have a stock cooler on my i5-6500. I think the ventilation is pretty good, but I'll see what temps I get with the new cooler. Might consider taking the front cover off to increase airflow.

As for tips, I'd say make sure you know what connectors you need for your PSU and connect them all before installing it all cause that area can get tight. Depending on the cpu cooler you have, you might it might be a little tight to install the fan connectors on the top of your mobo. Make sure you know which way your fans are pushing air and plan ahead. Otherwise you'll just annoy yourself with taking them on and off of the case haha.

I should be getting my new parts today, so after I install it all, I can send you an updated photo if you'd like. Feel free to PM if you have any other questions

I thought it was $22 for two. Let me see if I can get you a link

Apologies. They are 120s
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/social/swf/B00F6S0XJO/o=ShareProduct/ref=tsm_1_aw_swf_d_sp?vs=1

Any "quiet edition" fan like these should do the trick.

Those AF120's are much cheaper new than you are selling them for:

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE

Also, the SP120's are actually SP120L fans.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRKVG9Q/ref=twister_B00WW1H260?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464327292&sr=1-1&keywords=white+fan

http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Premier-140mm-Cooling-PH-F140SP_BK_WLED/dp/B00L6CKOYS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464327292&sr=1-2&keywords=white+fan

I hear the phanteks fans are more quiet.

https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-Airflow-CO-9050016-WLED/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538953623&sr=8-1&keywords=af120&th=1

White and blues are on sale. 2 for $25.

Yes, Corsair air series, AF120mm

I only have these two fans on i7-6700K air cooled and GTX1070; no OC. Things runs cool. Love the look of the case. Got the white version for $60.

The Phanteks Eclipse P300 has fairly restricted airflow, so probably good to add a couple of intake fans in the front. These should work well and be fairly quiet: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-P14s-redux-1500-PWM-Performance/dp/B00KF7O58G/

I would start with that. And then monitor your CPU temperature some. If it seems to get a bit high, you could always add an aftermarket cooler and post here again and ask which one to get. You can check your temps using this: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

I have an r5 for my rig, best thing is to ditch the stock fans and get some that move some serious air. I outfitted mine with noctuas' redux, 2 in the front and one in the back (also great for radiators) and then set a custom fan curve in the bios.

Noctua does have some Redux Fans in a grey color. In terms of silent fans that are stealth black, I'm also a big fan of [Fractal's Venturi Line] (https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-Venturi-HP-14-FD-FAN-VENT-HP14-PWM-BK/dp/B00VYEI17U/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492991095&sr=1-2&keywords=fractal+design+fans) , and have 3 of the 120mm variety in a Define Mini-C which is nigh inaudible.

Not all Noctua fans are tan/brown.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KF7O58G/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/

Get 2 140MM fans for intake and use the 2 included fans as top and rear exhaust. These Noctua redux 140s are good and cheap.

From what I've read, I agree. I don't mind paying the premium for style, but I don't want it to hobble my build when it comes time to overclock. Also, no USB-C, among other basic features in that price tier.

EDIT: Hey, /u/Computerknight54, just to follow up with this, I ordered the Taichi z370 and two Noctua 140mm fans for the front of the case. I'll run one 120mm exhaust fan in the back (and maybe one on the top?), and I'll be returning the RGB fans to save about $80 in total! Thanks again for commenting.

If you're going that route noctua has industrial fans:

http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1464045450&sr=8-9&keywords=noctua

>NF-A14 industrialPPC complies with the ingress protection rating IP52 that not only highly dust resistant but also withstands dripping water equivalent to 3mm rainfall per minute.

I know they make some of their models in black, but they're usually more expensive. They look like this, but they aren't available from Amazon in the UK. You could try Newegg, if you're interested.

And if you don't like the brown bits in the corners you can remove them but they're actually the sound dampeners and they work really well.

You know there are black Noctua fans available?

Just jumping in to say I've found myself in the same boat. I'm designing an acrylic case for my printer and figured "Why not add a vent while I'm at it!" And down the rabbit hole I fell...

A few things I've learned in my modest 24 hours of research:

• Carbon - Like the Molekule article mentions in their recommendations, a carbon sponge filter isn't going to cut it. You need a large amount of carbon granules (5lb+) and ideally the air should have time to circulate over the carbon for effective adsorption
  
  
• HEPA - HEPA filters can capture particles smaller than 300nm, thanks to Brownian motion, so will definitely do their part in your filtering system
  
  
• Pre-Filter - A pre-filter at your air-intake point will help capture the bigger particles, lengthening the HEPA and carbon lifespan
  
  
• Fan - You need a pretty powerful fan to properly exhaust your enclosure and get the air to properly move through all of the filters. Fans are rated in CFM units (cubic feet per minute), and the cheap ones sold at your favourite electronics store are probably in the 1-10 CFM range. I've been looking at this one that has 158.5 CFM: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KFCRF1A/?coliid=I2I9OJ1U1BDXZC&colid=2514DQPRDMWKO&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  
  What I'd really like to figure out is how to test for all of these particles at home. I see a lot of posts on here saying "I use a carbon filter and it works great!" but how do we know? Sure, a cheap carbon filter can reduce the odour, but I'd love to be able to do occasional tests to make sure my filter is working effectively. Will post back here if I find anything on that :)
  
  Update Just read about a study that showed recirculating the air in your enclosure helps reduce emissions even more. Seems logical, since the more times the air is pushed through the filters, the more likely they are to catch things - but great to have confirmation on that. Will also have the added benefit of containing the heat, not having to pull colder air into the enclosure while it's running. Source: https://3dprint.com/241787/should-vented-enclosures-become-a-mandatory-safety-standard-for-fff-3d-printers/
  
  My plan now is essentially to have the pre-filter, fan, and HEPA filter mounted on the side of the enclosure, then a hose down to a large box of carbon under the desk, and another hose out of that box feeding back into the other side of the enclosure. I'll likely run the fan on a lower speed while printing, then crank it up to 100% when the print is done and starts to cool - and if I can hook it up to the printer board and have the gcode control that, all the better

They also sell heavy duty ones that are black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_r9U6CbQ4H50YZ

Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.

Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.

Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.

As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.

H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it- https://youtu.be/iVrqEfDbCko?t=51

No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.

Story Time

​

Initially, I started with this case ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2Z11QE ) as I was thinking of throwing something together like what you're talking about. Then my "project" began to grow.

That's when I ended up ordering this case instead ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KQ66ZC ). That said, my server consists of a Threadripper 2990WX with an AIO water cooler. Well...this case wasn't made for that. So my father in law machined a hole in the top to mount the radiator on the top of the case like a blower on a car. This worked VERY well for a couple of weeks, but I just wasn't happy with it.

Finally, I ordered this case ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG ), to which I was able to fit everything inside of with a few extra bolts that still need to be trimmed. Here's a pic of the inside of mine and the temp 32 cores runs at ( https://imgur.com/tek9ID0 - https://imgur.com/vEPFLv5 ), do excuse the dust.

​

As far as SSD's go, just do something like this ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GMGZBP0 ). Saves space and doesn't hurt them as they only take a single HDD slot. Taping them to the side of the case doesn't hurt either if you don't care about the looks. Also, I want to boast about these fans for a min ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A ). Move a lot of air and aren't as loud as you'd think. The 120mm variant is a good bit louder, but still well worth it.

The picture you found is a bit blurry. That "IT856SE" you are seeing could actually be "IT8665E"?

There is an extended version of the it87 driver that's not in the normal kernel, and it has an "IT8665E" in its device ID list:

https://github.com/bbqlinux/it87

It is not mentioned in the README text, but the IT8665E support is inside that "it87.c" file.

Sadly, the person that worked on extending the it87 module gave up recently, he felt he had no time to do a good job. I don't know if there's someone else actively working on it somewhere.

Anyway... on Arch you have this special version of the it87 driver in the AUR as:

it87-dkms-git

This AUR package should be easy to use if everything works right. Before you install it, you just have to make sure you have the "...-headers" package for the kernel you are using installed. For example, if you use "linux" then install "linux-headers", or if you use "linux-lts" install "linux-lts-headers".


If nothing works, you could do a hardware solution. A simple way to solve this is to wire the PWM signal from the CPU fan header to all case fans. You then go and set the fan curves in the motherboard's BIOS menus, and you are done.

There's inexpensive fan hub products to do this. If your case fans are 4-pin PWM fans, the products are quite cheap, but there's also versions that can translate a PWM signal into voltage control for 3-pin fans, so 3-pin case fans can be made to work as well.

Here's two examples of what I'm thinking about:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/

https://noctua.at/en/products/accessories/fan-control/na-fc1

This one here can drive 3-pin fans, it translates the PWM signal into different voltages so it's more expensive:

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/

All of those products get power from a cable that's connecting to the PSU. This is so they won't overload the motherboard fan header. They only connect to the motherboard fan header to get the PWM speed signal but won't draw power from there.

You can also make the graphics card drive case fans in hardware. There are adapter cables that can connect into that tiny 4-pin fan header that graphics card have. You can then get the fan signal from the graphics card to one or two case fans. Those adapters cables are a bit hard to find. You could do a setup where the motherboard's CPU fan header drives a case fan or two, and the GPU drives a case fan or two.

Selection's kinda slim but I'd have to go with OEM fans just to keep costs down if I ever do decide to make a few. No way would I stick people with having to buy 20-30 dollar fans x6-7 in a 250-300 dollar case.

With dual ball bearing fans with a MTBF of 55k hours, they shouldn't be too bad.

The alternative is to go with 4x 200mm which seems to have a wider selection but that would increase the case size even more.

As for 9x120, yeah you can definitely wire up that many fans with either a fan control module or splitters that take power from molex/SATA.

No, just using a Y splitter on each header isn't anything to worry about. Daisy-chaining them on the other hand...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the H60 only takes up one fan header, unless you're planning to add an additional fan for push/pull? (Which is a very minor performance increase, if that is your intention, but it's up to you).

What I did in my case, also with multiple fans, was get something like this that allows for control from the motherboard but power from the PSU. No strain on the MB, and easy control for the whole case.

You could try a pwm fan hub like this one https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE. I don't have any experience with one of these as I just use splitters, so I'm not really sure if you can control each fan individually or not.

Fan controllers can also have a fan input and external power - the word I was looking for is actually "fan hub", it turns out. example

Sick ideal! Do you think this will work for the Dell Visor? Just me looking at these pictures I think it will and if so I'm going to buy a Noctua NF-A4X10-FLX 5V & A USB to 3/4-Pin PWM 5V Power Adapter then use a power bank I have laying around.

You mean this one? I have one on order that's supposed to be here Wednesday.

If you plan on doing any heavy lifting with the Pi4, I'd definitely check out the MicroConnectors RAS-PCS46 as it's the only case I've found that supports 40mm fans straight out of the box. I ordered a Noctua 40x40x10mm fan to go with it, as well as a Noctua 40x40x20mm fan to try out too (want to see how much difference 10mm extra of fan blade height makes). If you order the Noctua fans, make SURE you get the 5V ones and not the 12V ones, unless you don't care about powering it from the Pi directly. I'll post links for them at the bottom of this post.

As for info on cooling, there are some excellent videos on YouTube, with one of th best being the series from Explaining Computers. He gives lots of charts and info, plus try multiple cooling solutions. Also mentioned that he should have the new cooling video done soon, so I'm personally really looking forward to seeing what Chris Barnatt cooked up for the Pi 4.

Have you checked out any reviews of IC Graphite? It was reviewed by Linus Tech Tips, JayzTwoCents, Gamers Nexus as a replacement for thermal paste on traditional PC CPU's, but all found that IC Graphite is a horrible replacement for traditional thermal paste. With a Pi4, you might be able to get away with using it if you have some active cooling going, which is likely the approach I'll be taking (except usng Artic thermal pads as I already have those on hand). I do plan on doing an experiment with my Pi 4's where I use Arctic thermal pads on one, and ArcticSilver 5 thermal paste on another, with both the same heatsink and fan, to compare how well pads stack up to paste for the Pi.



Also I found this insane RPi cooling tower that has a full radiator with copper pipes and everything - it seems a little overkill but is only $20: https://www.seeedstudio.com/ICE-Tower-CPU-Cooling-Fan-for-Raspberry-pi-Support-Pi-4-p-4097.html


MC RAS-PCS46 Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Stackable-Raspberry-Enclosure-Heatsinks/dp/B07MQXRGZR

Noctua 40mm fans:

40x40x10mm: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=noctua+40mm&qid=1562742609&s=electronics&sr=1-7

40x40x20mm: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-5V-3-Pin-Premium/dp/B072Q3CMRW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=noctua+40mm&qid=1562742609&s=electronics&sr=1-8

Noctua. They make a 40x40x10 fan that is as quiet as it's gonna get. Cools my pi to 40*C and I can't hear it at all from more than about 6" away.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495053689&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+40x40x10mm+premium+fan+nf-a4x10+flx

This thing comes with rubber mounting feet as well as vibration dampening mounting studs. Whole thing fits inside my pi case.

I bought this one:

Noctua NF-A4x10 5V - 3-Pin Premium Quiet Fan (40mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5I-YCbGEYGVG9

You need new 40mm fans. If you want something truly silent, you should try noctua ones like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-5V-3-Pin-Premium/dp/B072Q3CMRW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=40mm+noctua+5v&qid=1570668878&sprefix=40mm+noctua&sr=8-5


https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=40mm+noctua+5v&qid=1570668953&sprefix=40mm+noctua&sr=8-3

Oh shit, sorry. I missread and thought the radial failed.

So it's the Noctua fan? Does it not have am model number on it?
Sure it's 50mm? I can only find a 40mm on their website: https://noctua.at/en/nf-a4x10-5v

Edit: According to this site the mk3 fan is a 40×40×10 mm. Amazon.com link

I can't seem to find a 12V Noctua 40mm fan. Will this 5V one from amazon work? and will it require any soldering?

Edit: Found a 12V Noctua

You could replace the fans with some Noctuas. They definitely won't bother you. A little pricey but they're basically silent. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NEMGCIA/

give me a few to see what I got.. I ordered from Amazon.. H/o

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

is the one I used!

If you are seriously worried about using the stock cooler (which you shouldn't be, but whatever), there are plenty of smaller options that you could use for CPU cooling and not breaking the bank. Here's one example. There are many others. "low profile CPU cooler" search on Amazon, dude.

The Noctua NH-D14 (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/46tCmG/noctua-cpu-cooler-nhd14) works super well, but its a bit pricy.

The CRYORIG C7 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0177GTV9U/?tag=pcpapi-20) is cheaper but doesn't cool as well, so you won't be able to overclock as much.

The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hmtCmG/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) is the cheapest of the bunch, and again, won't be able to overclock as much.

You can look around on Amazon and at reviews as well though, and find what you think is best.

Some other things to note:
For builds $1050 and up, you recommend an EVGA NEX 650W PSU. While this PSU won't fry your build or burn down your house, it has poor ripple control as shown in this [review] (http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=442). I would recommend a gen 2 EVGA PSU (G2/GS/etc), or potentially a different brand PSU (Corsair RMx series or Seasonic's G series).

In option 1 of your $1650 build, you recommend a [Cryorig C7 Cooler.] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0177GTV9U) This is a low profile cooler meant for small form factor builds, so I'm assuming you mixed it up with the Cryorig H7 cooler, designed for more standard towers. While the H7 gets the job done, you might as well invest in a beefier air cooler or switch over to liquid cooling at that price point.

I wouldn't recommend this route, but if you are going to, definitely buy a much cheaper motherboard than you list in the pcpartpicker, since you'll have to buy a different one for Ryzen. On the other hand, if you can force yourself to wait for a couple weeks you could put all of that money into buying one of the higher end 8/16 cpus and blow the i5 and pentium out of the water.

As for coolers I've heard good things about this one You could also look into a closed loop cooler like the corsair H60, which may be good if Ryzen's XFR turns out to work well.

Edit: Fixed link

Does it only accept low profile coolers or are 120mm coolers just too big?

I got a black/white theme with air cooling so I did some shopping while I was getting the parts for it, still have a few parts I was eyeing saved.

The Cryorig C7 is an option.
There is also the Phanteks 120mm and 95mm low-profile coolers, the 95mm being mostly white colored.

Neither of these will be as good as a dual fan 120mm cooler but would suffice for non-OC applications and perhaps light OCing.

If an AIO is an option there is the DeepCool 240 in white.


The one I went with is the rather large dual tower 140mm Cryorig R1 Universal simply to fit high profile RAM, and cause I went full tower so I could afford to cram a giant hunk of aluminum in there.

If you don't want your buds to molds or smell like hay, you should try to create some air exchange in that box. You want air to be moving around the buds constantly, but not too fast. A couple of computer fans like this should do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Bearing-Computer-Radiators/dp/B000O8I474/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1397338984&sr=8-6&keywords=pc+box+fan. Buds are looking supreme, by the way! I love harvesting, but waiting for my bud to dry and cure in some ways is the worst part of growing.

here is the rosewill variant

Here is the Cooler master variant

I ended up going with the Cooler Master fans, cheap, quiet, get the job done.

These fans are good. They come as a 4 pack for cheap! If you want to change the turbo from 4.1Ghz to 4.5Ghz, you'd have to test to make sure the CPU is stable at those speeds. To up the turbo frequency, you could either up the turbo multiplier (sometimes this doesn't work) or up the FSB frequency from 200mhz to 220mhz, which will up your CPU from 3.5/4.1 GHz to 3.85/4.5 Ghz. Again, be sure to stress test!

Drop the thermal paste, the nh d14 already comes with it, get this value pack from cooler master, its a 4 in 1 for $12, similar quality to those fans you selected, and the lg ips monitor is at 1080p, the dell one is at 1200p

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-3570 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock H77M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $69.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial Ballistix sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $36.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $74.99 @ NCIX US
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 2GB Video Card | $244.99 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.49 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | OCZ 600W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $38.99 @ NCIX US
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-222BB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer | $16.98 @ Outlet PC
Keyboard | Logitech K270 Wireless Standard Keyboard | $27.98 @ Amazon
Mouse | Gigabyte GM-M7700 Wireless Laser Mouse | $19.99 @ Newegg
Other| Cooling System ($14.00) http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-120mm-Silent-Value/dp/B000O8I474/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1345499541&sr=1-1 | $0.00
Other| Evercool Connectors ($4.00) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311002| $0.00
Other| Wireless Adapter ($19.99) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704045 | $0.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $780.38
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-09-08 16:27 EDT-0400 |

Just gonna copy paste a comment I have made before, however this is a better video that shows a complete setup. I was lazy so I just hooked my fan controllers up to an old media PC just to get them moving at the moment.


I too just got started doing my own flavors last week. After I got in everything it dawned on me I would need some sort of mixing or steeping process as I am to impatient. I opted to go for the DIY magnetic mixing table for my needs. Now mine won't have heat like the nice single units on amazon and such do, but it will allow me to mix up to 8 different flavors simultaneously.

Simplest video I could find showing basic principles

Parts I had to buy:

4 port PC Fan Controller (X2)

Magnetic Stir Bars


Parts I already had:

4 Pack PC Fans (X2) I had already bought these for my PC builds earlier and bought what I consider to be nicer fans and went with Cooler Master. If I were buying new for this project, I would probably just go with Rosewill brand. Also upon building I ended up sticking with mostly 80mm fans instead of 120mm. I had thought the wider center may be needed on the fan but thats not the case.

Neodymium Magnets for the fans (X2) I already had some of these as well in the form of magnets I salvaged from old Hard Drives. If I didn't have those to tear apart, I would buy these instead.

So as you can see for me the mixing table only took an investment of around $30 because of what I had access to. However if you have any friends that do IT work it is hard to believe they wouldn't have old PC fans and busted IDE hard drives they wouldn't just give you. Also you could cut it down to 4 or even 1 fan to start with, and extrapolate from there.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCQT6M/ref=psdc_11036291_t3_B00KFCRIQM

Those look pretty black to me O.o...the rubber ends are to minimize vibration noise. I use Cooler Master ones which are pretty quiet, but not Noctua quiet lol

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Bearing-Computer-Radiators/dp/B000O8I474/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525756489&sr=1-3&keywords=cooler+master+120mm

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-SickleFlow-120-Radiators/dp/B0026ZPFDE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525756489&sr=1-4&keywords=cooler%2Bmaster%2B120mm&th=1

For stock cooler, you might try a CPU water cooler. Cooler and vastly more quiet. I have H80i which is a decent entry point.

Good luck tho hope you find some!

Okay I will download MSI Afterburner this evening. Also, I ordered a 4 piece fan system. My case has room for two more fans up top and two on the front. From what I read I can go into Bios and set them as auto depending on CPU temp, correct? I'd like the fans to run when system is under a load and cut back when not. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O8I474/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These fans are an awesome deal. However, they don't come with 3-pin to molex converters so you would want to get something like this to plug them in.

This Noctua thermal compound is good. They're a well regarded brand and the paste is non-conductive. It also doesn't require a long curing time, unlike Arctic Silver 5. Also, I think it's a few degrees cooler than Arctic!

Any prefered store?

There used to be a 1.5gr seringe, but the 4 grams one is at less than 5£, so a better deal than the 1.5gr for around 3£:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Compound-Performance-Heatsink-Interface-Material/dp/B0045JCFLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509718075&sr=8-1&keywords=arctic+mx4

Kryonaut:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermal-Grizzly-kryonaut-Compound-Compounds/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509718131&sr=1-1&keywords=kryonaut

Noctua:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/noctua-NT-H1-Noctua-thermal-compound/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1509718185&sr=1-1&keywords=nt+h1

Just lay a 5-6mm long bead with the thickness of a rice grain, and dont spread it with the spatula(if included) and off you go.

This is the exact one i used. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=noctua+thermal+compound&qid=1567621978&s=gateway&sr=8-3

That's correct, most TIMs are non-conductive. Most silicon gasket pastes are also non-conductive. The silicon I linked to in my original comment is non-conductive, and my preferred thermal paste, Noctua NT-H1, is also Not Electrically Conductive.

Thermal paste is only $5-$10. Not gonna hurt any more than you already are if so.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Thermal-Compound-Retail/dp/B002CQU14A

Artic Silver 5 is a pretty old compound. You can get better for around the same price.

I would recommend either:

• Noctur NT-H1 3.5 gram: $8.95
  
• Prolimatech Pk-1 5 gram: $10.99
  
  There is also Pk-2 and Pk-3 from Prolimatech, which offer 2-3 degrees better performance relative to Pk-1.

the factory thermal paste sucks and its been drying out for 5 years. wether it is the problem or not you should reapply it. also while you are opening it up you can remove some of the dust making the cooling system more effective and helping rule out thermals.

"expensive" thermal paste cost like 10$.

​

i like https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A

This is a better thermal compound for a lower price:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002CQU14A/?tag=pcp0f-20

I disable the speedstep tech in bios and got a much better temp, but the clockspeed got locked at 2.89GHz for the cpu. I bought ARCTIC MX-4 and Noctua NT-H1, just really hoping this is worth it since i don't want to break any of those pins or rip those cables.

Its pretty easy but you need thermal paste if you take off the heat sink to repaste it also GET THE RIGHT TOOLS. If you dont have the right tools you can strip the screws and they are pretty soft. I was told T5 Torx was used on the laptop but T4 torx works better for the XPS 15. I used this and this thermal paste.

With an undervolt I got a 6 degree drop and with thermal paste it went down another 7-8 degrees. Pretty much went from 86-90 degrees down to 75ish degrees.

Also use +70% Alcohol for cleaning the heatsink and die.

I suggest you look up some videos before attempting.

Noctua NT-H1

Arctic MX-4

Does it have to be hotswap?

If not I used one of these for about 10 months

EverCool Dual 5.25 in. Drive Bay to Triple 3.5 in. HDD Cooling Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032UUGF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZRGCCbFJ77584

It only converts to hold 3 hdds. But it's only 25 bucks. And if you have 3 5.25 bays that still gives you 9 more drives of storage. Hell. If you pay for the shipping I'd give you mine as I don't need it anymore.

I only have 1 though. I don't need it because I finally converted to an actual server case that holds 15 drives in a 4u form factor.

Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/EverCool-Dual-Drive-Triple-Cooling/dp/B0032UUGF4

For ten comfy drives, Fractal Design Define R5
and two of these.

For eleven drives, three toasty, Fractal Design Define R5, and this.

For twelve comfy drives, Lian-Li PC-A79.

For thirteen drives, four comfy: Corsair 750D, this, and this.

For fourteen drives, five toasty: Corsair 750D, this, and this.

https://www.amazon.com/EverCool-Dual-Drive-Triple-Cooling/dp/B0032UUGF4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525231791&sr=8-3&keywords=hdd+bay+fan

Like this?

Not sure how that works but this is what I use in my air540 with a noctua redux fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032UUGF4/

I have a Z400 with 8 drives internally, 7x3.5 with 1 SSD. I converted the top two drives with an evercool 5.25 to 3.5 converter with fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032UUGF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To handle the drive management and not get screwed if raid fails, I use drivepool, which is great, and allows you to view the files on another PC using just basic windows if the mobo craps out, has great tools for duplication and managing drives with SMART errors if you also get the scan software.

​

has been awesome and bulletproof for me, recommend it.

The fan takes care of the VRMs. The metal plate on the PCB is probably enough to passively cool the VRAM. When I did a similar setup with my R9 290 I bought some of these for the VRAM modules.

Honestly though, I did testing both with and without the heatsinks (plus a few fell off over time), and the VRAM is completely fine without anything as well. Never saw any temps above 90.

I ordered these copper heatsinks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00637X42A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t1fyDb8YAG6RD

Not pictured: I have a few aluminum ones on there now with Thermal Grizzly Minus 8 thermal pads, but they are too tall (14x14x8mm), they are getting replaced with the smaller copper ones on Monday.

Drilling... Yes. Yup. I did that. I barely enlarged the holes by say .2mm. Just a hair. I had a vacuum on while drilling, which I couldn't capture in the photo. I cleaned everything super well afterwards.

Idle is now 32C (GPU temp) with the card overclocked to 2160mhz, 1199mv, +90% power, and 910 MHz memory. Junction temp also idles at 32C.

Would I recommend doing this? Only if you are comfortable completely disassembling your expensive GPU, drilling out two holes on your card, and figuring everything out, including vram heatsinks.

I put a 2 fan to 1 fan adapter to my motherboard's AIO header, which is powering both of my pumps (CPU and GPU). Two pumps or fans should be ok on one header.

Attempt this at your own risk.

EDIT: CARD IS UNSTABLE DUE TO MEMORY TEMPS, ABANDONED IDEA

He's talking about these that you stick on your VRM / memory / whatever you think needs cooling. You usually don't need these for overclocking your CPU unless your motherboard's implementation is especially poor, but when you modify a GPU with an AIO like the H50 you end up taking away the heatsink, so depending on how hot your VRMs and other components run and if the other parts on your board come with separate heatsinks (see Zotac 1080ti AMP! VRM heatsink), you may end up wanting to stick some of them on.

The VRM’s are fine if you put heatsinks like this on them. I just watercooled my 2080 with a G12 and a H80i V2 and max out at like 50°C

I'd only recommend that if your sinks arrive with very soft thermal pad material, like that which you'll find on your main Gelid VRM sink, instead of actual thermal tape. I don't know what adhesive you have on hand but most thermal adhesive is permanent, so just be aware if you choose that route.

I ordered these sinks and this tape which is actually 3M 8815. After wasting about 30 minutes installing one sink with the 3M tape, I just went with the OEM applied stuff for the other fifteen. Several months and tons of heat later all 16 sinks are stuck so well they may as well be considered structural. Surface prep and application technique are where the battle is won or lost.

ok...the install was a bit complicated due to the fact that these cards have vrms on 2 sides of the board. the vrm that are near the IO end of the pcb are very close to some resistors, making it very difficult to find heatsinks that can fit in the narrow gap.

​

for the vram and the majority of the vrm, I used this: https://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A

​

for the vrm in the narrow lane, I was able to use this old aluminum heatsink I had for my AMD 290 when I had the kraken on that. I do not know if they make it anymore, but it was a perfect fit. the plate of the long aluminum sink was skinny enough to fit on top the vrm without being blocked by the nearby resistors.

​

I used an old thermal pad (fujipoly...which seems a lot more sticker than phobia, which was very oily, but maybe because the phobia was new and unused...now that I think of it maybe the phobia would've worked well too if I heated it and evaporated the oils) on the bottom of that aluminum heatsink and then used seksui thermal tape to attach it to the card, and secure it even more with zipties (though this was an extreme precaution).

​

I also used seksui thermal tape on the copper heatsinks as well, even though the heatsinks come with an adhesive. In the past, no tape was strong enough to hold the weight of the heatsink, except for the seksui tape, which has very strong adhesive and great thermal properties.

​

This is the aluminum heatsink (I just used the long piece): https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426042

​

This entire problem existed because it was not possible to mount the g12 bracket and retain the pcb plate which would've acted as a heatsink for the vrm near the IO end of the card. Later I realized I could've used my old g10 bracket and just gotten longer screws, and retain the pcb plate.

​

You can also avoid this issue by going to a local electronics store, or measuring the gap (once you have your card), and find a narrow heatsink that fits. I used my aluminum one because I had it stored away, on hand.

​

I also ended up buying a pci fan bracket, to cool the vrm on the far left of the card (near IO board, where aluminum heatsink is.

​

Here is a close up photo of where the aluminum heatsink is. you can also see the low profile ram heatsinks perfectly clear the water block. https://imgur.com/gMwQGu3

​

Here is a summary picture of everything I just said:

https://imgur.com/Mqcmxjw

​

The way that panel comes off it would be easy to replace it with a better heatsink. I'll bet one of these would do much better.

Snap a couple of fans in the front and you'll be perfectly fine.

----

As far as the solutions for the 1080ti, apart from morpheusII, if you want actual product:

NZXT G12 mounting kit

and whichever supported AIO cooler (check this list).

You will need to do some research first for both morpheusII and AIO GPU mounted though. Maybe you need some VRM/VRAM heatsinks as well or something else.

You can find a video on youtube or just follow the instructions. It's pretty simple. Just remember that you need to remove the backplate and RAM heatsink (the black fins on the right of this image) in addition to the rest of the cooler. You can use these instead

add some small VRM heatsinks (like these:https://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Copper-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B00637X42A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478032763&sr=8-1&keywords=vrm+heatsink) and or use a topblower fan.

One of these small copper ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was just going to use some thermal adhesive and put it on the VRAM VRM, since it's the only thing that gets warm.. everything else runs fairly cool and doesn't need any heatskinks..

You can live without it really.. but if you plan on OCing VRAM then I think it's a good idea.

I got these for later and they will fit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00637X42A/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467414137&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=copper+vram+heatsinks

heatsink installed this will require some modifications to the speaker assembly to accommodate such a bulky heatsink.

here is the heatsink I used

For those interested, the v2 cam uses the popular Ingenic T20 SOC

I'm going to see if the microphone quality is improved when it is removed from the case. If it is, then I will proceed with slightly enlarging and beveling the hole in the case for the microphone to facilitate more sound waves hitting the microphone. I am also curious if my unit was thermal throttling the CPU resulting in latency with the audio recording.

More edit: further testing is necessary, but I seem to have dropped temps by over 20 degrees Fahrenheit by installing a heatsink.

for now I ended up removing the internal speaker panel to make room for my heatsink. This is what I removed. After I did that it shut just fine.

Edit: more mods. I hate the low quality audio. Drilling out the mic hole in the case provided a very marginal improvement. It allows more sounds to enter the mic. I also had to flip the rubber seal upside down to put the bigger hole (it was meant for a component that isn't installed in v2) on the mic side. https://i.imgur.com/Jwrl9vc.jpg

so a few things stick out to me

the first being the ram, 16 gigs is quite a bit for gaming, 8 gigs should still be quite sufficient for some time, and when the time comes when it's not, its super simple to just buy 8 more gigs and throw them in there, for now i'd say go with 8.

thing 2 is the cooler, are you planning on really pushing this processor or do you live in a hot place? if neither of those things you could either a) go way cheaper, bor b) go water (if you like the aesthetic)

additionally, HDD space is kinda like the ram in the sense that if you run out, you can just throw in more. i currently have 70 games + 1000 hours of music + 8 seasons of different shows on my 1T hdd and i still have 265 gigs free, so 2T's is a lot of space. the golden rule is to buy what's right for you

That is basically my build. Here's the thing. Some of the motherboard bits are too close for most air coolers on that motherboard. BUT, for the same money, you can grab this, which I can guarantee works.

This is a basic AiO with 120mmn radiator. If you have a good air cooler, this is not a worthwhile upgrade. If, on the other hand, you're doing a SFF build or have limited cooler clearance, this will be a good choice.

There appears to be decent stock available at time of posting. Shipping is free to store or $8.99 otherwise.

Also available at Amazon, but $60 (no MIR but free shipping/Prime): https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Hydro-Liquid-Cooler-CW-9060010-WW/dp/B009VV56TY/

How about this one?
https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B009VV56TY?m=A2I7O4J2ZRUZ42&ref_=pn_sr_sg_1_img_A2I7O4J2ZRUZ42

If you don't plan on overclocking, the stock Intel cooler should work just fine in a mITX build.

For just over €75, the Corsair H55 is an option. For much less, look for the Arctic Liquid Freezer 120 but it is a lot thicker so you'll have to make sure it will fit in the case you plan on using.

No way you can do custom water cooling for two cpus for under $100. Best you could do is get two separate AIO units like this. These will give slightly better performance than a comparable air cooler.

I was just in the samr boat as you. I have a strix r9 390 that I was also having temperature issues with. For $120 you can get an NZXT Kraken g10 Corsair h55 aio, and vrm heatsinks to mount on your card. Brought my temps from 90C under load to low 60s.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ITTFO8M/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492781463&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009VV56TY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492781493&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=corsair+h55&dpPl=1&dpID=41C3tKli1NL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K73F60E/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_pre_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

here is my most recent build

waited like 3-4 years for an upgrade and replaced everything but PSU, GPU, and HDDs.

Could look a bit better but i had no zip ties and didn't want to cut any wires. also a non-modular PSU.

and now i am getting coil noise from PSU :'(

not really sure i could do to make it look any better other than a new PSU with plug in ports like these sexy guys




parts links:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB6O4N8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CRJSXR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KPRWAX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VV56TY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/ENGTX560_Ti_DCII_TOP2DI1GD5/

I guess if you need low profile it could maybe make sense.. but the thing is, I wouldn't put this on a K series chip unless I had no alternatives.

This isn't super small but it could fit that sort of use case. A little more than the 5 bucks though. Noctua has quite a few as well for ITX style cases. But if you're not in an ITX case I can't imagine needing super low profile. And for AMD? I'd be shocked if this was better than the wraith stealth tbh.

Shouldn't be an issue.

Also, is CRYORIG available in the UK? If so, I would recommend the C7 based purely on aesthetics because honestly, that cooler you have doesn't look pretty. but it gets the job done

Edit: Found it! It's £50

no you should be fine for 4k60 with your current cpu even 4k4t will be more than enough, gpu matters way more the higher resolution you get. also you can get something as cheap as a cryorig c7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0177GTV9U/ and get some sort of an overclock and be way better than a shitty stock cooler

> Awesome setup! What CPU cooler are you using? I've been looking for something like that!

Cryorig C7

In that case, Cyrorig C7 instead of the H7.

I don't think that you need to get a new cpu. The i5 4400 is still pretty decent CPU.

I think you just need to check your cooling solution. Bring your PC outside and open it up. Check the fan on the CPU and make sure that the fan and grills are free of dust.

You could also just buy a new cooler. I would recommend the Hyper 212 Evo that's half off right now.

I bought

This mobo

with

This case

Ram and Air Cooler and This Lighting kit and These fans x3 for back and two on top

paired with MSI Gaming X 480 8GB gpu so that everything matches.

Yes overkill for this cpu but fuck it, I love the color scheme. I'll just benchmark the system and throw in a Kaby i5 7600K for the real CPU intended for this build right after and use the G4560 for an ultra cheap build I will gift to my son's friend so they can play some games together.

But you need a cooler for any CPU. Intel used to include their stock coolers in the box but I think the 9600K doesn't have one. They were too basic anyway. You can get a decent cooler, even enough for some light overclocking if you decide to try it later on, for 25-35 dollars. These two are good options:

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212L-16PR-R1-Direct-Contact/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Cooler+Master+Hyper+212&qid=1554477817&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Reeven-RC-1001b-Brontes-Profile-Cooler/dp/B0753HVHDM/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Reeven+RC-1001b+Brontes&qid=1554477856&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Three suggestions:

1. If you plan on doing high overclocking get a Asrock Extreme 4 motherboard. If not, you can keep the one you picked. The Asrock MoBo has more power phases and will give you a more stable overclock.
   
2. If you're looking to hit 5GHz get the new Corsair H115i Extreme CPU cooler for ~9K. Its new, and extremely good for the price. If you only want to do a mild overclock, you can go with something like this new Cooler Master 620P (H=165mm) which is nearly as good as a Cryorig H5 Universal (H=160mm) and priced at a very decent 3.7K.
   
3. If you go for an air cooler, then instead of Corsair 200R (CPU clearance 165mm), you could get this Cooler Master Masterbox 5 (CPU clearance 167mm) with that beautiful front grille to suck in loads of air. Just discovered it today and am going to recommend it to everyone who has a case budget of ~6k. If you go for the AIO cooler, then I'd personally recommend getting a case with top 280mm radiator placement possible. From what I search last time, these are you options that do allow top mounted 280mm rads:
   
   Thermaltake Suppressor F31
   
   Thermaltake View 31
   
   Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (out of stock so this is the white version)
   
   Thermaltake Core X31
   
   They all sit in the medium range cost wise, but they'll give you an important option of freeing up the front of your case so you can put your case fans and draw outside air in.
   
   Other than this, the Sickleflow fans you picked are fine, you can go with them. If you're tight on budget, then let me know what you have to work with so I'll try to suggest the best option within that. Also let us know how much you're looking to overclock that CPU. It is very regularly known to hit 5GHz if enough cooling is given.
   
   Edit:
   
   If all this is sounding very costly to you, and you were not much interested in overclocking anyway, I'd suggest you to go for the i7 8700 processor (Rs. 22K), a Gigabyte Aorus 3 Gaming B360 motherboard (Rs. 10K), and a Cooler Master Hyper 212 CPU cooler (Rs. 2.8K) and call it a day. At stock speeds the 8700 is better at gaming than the 8600K.

See I was thinking about this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KBXKP8W/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 because on

http://www.coolermaster.com/we-are-ready-for-your-am4-socket/

it shows it was already am4 ready.

Check the QVL list for the motherboard, buy that. It's the safest bet, especially since the Taichi is a little finicky with RAM OC in my experience, and I believe Buildzoid has mentioned that as well.

On the other hand... my RAM isn't on the QVL list itself, and but is Samsung B-Die and works at 3200CL14 which is what it's rated at... very similar model # to what you have picked out from G.Skill. Just more aggressive timings (which isn't a huge deal at the price disparity)

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232205

For cooling an 1800X if you want to OC, I might recommend an even beefier cooler from Noctua honestly. At 4.0ghz with common voltages you put off a lot of heat.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT

Assuming your case can handle the airflow. My original Phanteks P400S was NOT up to the task of removing the heat, even with 2x 140mm intakes fans and 1x 120mm outlet + 1x 140mm overhead outlet.

Noctua D-15 SE AM4 -- http://noctua.at/en/nh-d15-se-am4.html

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT

hm, back in stock on june 1st.

the cooler also, back in stock in 5 days...

They already have an AM4 edition of the NH-D15 on amazon. I bought it and got it in the mail today.

Amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487790802&sr=1-2&keywords=am4 Here's one that comes with the AM4 bracket.

it should come with it. There is even a special AM4 edition
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487790879&sr=8-4&keywords=nhd15

Its $5 more than the non special edition but it ensures that you get the bracket no matter what.

I'd say it all depends on your budget and how much extra work you're willing to do. Air coolers require a lot less maintenance and have fewer points of failure, so can be seen as a bit safer. The Dark Rock 4 is a good one, although if you're up in that price range I'd recommend anything from Noctua. Their stuff is bulletproof, the build quality is incredible. The NH-D14 is available for the same price as the Dark Rock 4 (the NH-D15 replaced it at a slightly higher cost, I'd go for that if you want the best of the best) and I think would be your best bet for air cooling.

However if you're really going after overclocking it as far as possible and you want to have more headroom, then out of what you recommended I'd say to go for the H115i if you're good with paying for it.

Assuming you are on a budget, Cryorig H7. Never mounted it on an AM4, but it says it comes with the kit now.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13C-000U-00005

If you have more dollarydoos, then NH-D15 AM4
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Here's the link to the AM4 version(from Amazon UK)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01NC06ZYT/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497829702&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=noctua+nh-d15&dpPl=1&dpID=51xcGRRFrrL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77

I'm using the Mugen 5 scythe rev. B instead of the stock cooler. On the Ryzen Master stress test, 100% load all cores, I reach 81 degrees with all cores at 4075 Mhz with PBO on. I'll keep an eye out in games to see what temps/clocks I reach during normal loads.

Would advise to wait out a week for the Ryzen R5 2600 ($199 + cheaper mobo), seems that it will be much better bang for the buck as the i5-8400 can provide. Any of those CPUs will anyway not bottleneck the GTX1060, actually there is probably no 6+ core CPU which would bottleneck anything less as the GTX1080...

Then also the cooler - if you dont specifically want the AIO for the looks or some other particular reason, then I would advise to go Scythe Mugen 5 for $48 as It cools better as the 120mm AIO, its even quieter, while being cheaper a bit and more reliable...

Max safe voltage is supposedly only 1.38V for 12nm ryzens: https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/amtnt4/ryzen_generation_2_safeunsafe_voltages_tested/

Any "big" cooler like around Scythe Mugen 5 size should handle that easily and quietly

Arctic freezer 34 is fine as well

Any cheap 4-heatpipe 120mm fan Hyper 212 clone would work as well and they are cheaper, but they might get hot and loud around 1.38V

4.2GHz is unlikely to work, unless you're lucky.

Highest I could get while staying in "safe" voltages zone was 4.125GHz using 1.378V on my Ryzen 2600

Here's a Newegg link and it turns out I was mistakenly calling it the 'Rev.2' when it's the 'Rev.B'

*It looks like Amazon has something similar but it might not be the Rev.B with AM4 support. They do have this Mugen 5 by Scythe (Rev.B so AM4 support) though which I've read good things about but no experience. It looks like a larger H7 but with more heat-pipes and a better mounting system.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-Scmg-5100-Computer-Cooling-Black/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1539256480&sr=8-11&keywords=scythe+cooler

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-56500-Heatsink-CPU-Black/dp/B071XCCM7V/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539256501&sr=8-3&keywords=scythe+cooler+1100

Perhaps you have to use the product number instead of the name.

Had a liquid cooler it failed. So did my brother's. We both switched to this:cooler

I like Noctua but not enough to drop $100 for just a CPU cooler. I went with the Scythe Mugen Rev.B, it's another big bastard cooler with similar performance for half the price, smarter buy imo.

$48 cooler that will cool 9900k fine:
Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B 120mm Air CPU Cooler, Tower Heatsink with 6 Heatpipes, Quiet PWM Fan, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB8K77/

$59 cooler that will cool 9900ks fine:
Scythe Fuma 2 120mm Air CPU Cooler, Twin Heatsinks/PWM Fans with 6 Heatpipes, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFNG89S/

I'm biased but I got this from a buddy because he accidentally ordered two and I love it.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06ZYB8K77?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B 120mm CPU Cooler with AM4 Support

$2400 4K Gaming PC

Max settings at 4K resolution will bring any existing hardware to its knees, but we can come very close to your desired 120fps. You should expect to get better framerates substantially higher than the benchmarks below because the video card in this build is clocked 13.6% higher than the reference model.

The key to achieving the highest framerates at 1440p and 4K is simply to include the strongest video card possible. This means the RTX 2080Ti with the highest boost clock frequency we can afford.

• Destiny 2 Ultra Settings:
  
• 1440p: 198fps
  
• 4K: 99fps
  
• Full benchmarks
  
• Micro Center Parts:
  
• CPU, Motherboard
  
  PCPartPicker Part List
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $299.99
  CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $90.00
  Motherboard | Gigabyte Z390 GAMING X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $119.99
  Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | Sabrent Rocket 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $249.98 @ Amazon
  Video Card | MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card | $1199.89 @ Amazon
  Case | NZXT H700 ATX Mid Tower Case | $109.98 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | Corsair TXM Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Newegg
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $137.90 @ OutletPC
  Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-AC1900PCE PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $59.99 @ Newegg
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2457.70
  | Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
  | Total | $2427.70
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-25 21:49 EDT-0400 |
  
  

  Explanation of Part Choices:
  

  
  

• Cpu: This is the second strongest gaming cpu available. You could technically get away with the 6-core Ryzen 5 3600 or the i5-9600K, but with a budget this large it makes sense to spend a bit extra to get an 8-core cpu to future-proof the build against the possibility that future games begin using more than 6 cores. I don't recommend the more expensive 9900K because we don't need hyper threading and the performance difference at 1440p and 4K resolutions will be negligible, and we are better off spending that money on a stronger video card.
  
• Cpu Cooler: This is one of the top two air coolers available and actually delivers stronger cooling performance than most high-end AIO water coolers. It will enable you to heavily overclock the 9700K if you choose. It is currently out of stock, but will be in stock on October 29th.
  
• Motherboard: One of the cheapest motherboards with VRMs strong enough to support overclocking the 9700K. See the Intel VRMs tier list.
  
• Memory: 3000mhz is the fastest speed before intel cpus suffer heavy diminishing returns. 15CAS latency instead of 16 (lower latency results in faster cpu performance). 16GB is more than enough memory unless you will be using this PC for professional video editing or CAD work.
  
• SSD: Cheapest 2TB TLC NVMe SSD with a dram cache and a 5 year warranty (make sure you register to get the warranty). NVMe SSDs are ~3 times faster than traditional SATA SSDs. TLC SSDs are much faster than the cheaper QLC SSDs in sustained reads/writes and do not slow down as much as they fill up. I do not recommend an HDD unless you plan to store large amounts of video files. It's hard to go back to loading games from an HDD after you've experienced SSD loading speeds.
  
• Video Card: The RTX 2080Ti is the strongest gaming video card available. EVGA is considered the most reliable brand with the best customer service. I selected a high-end model (as determined by its boost clock speed). It's boost clock speed is 1755mhz, which is 13.6% faster than the basic models which are clocked at 1545mhz. There are 2080Ti's with higher clock speeds than this, but they either have poor ratings or are several hundred dollars extra, which is just a very poor value.
  
• Case: This is the high-end version of the most popular case (the H500). We want the H700 because this build has very power-hungry hardware (more power equals more heat) and the H700 has significantly better airflow thanks to its larger vents and four case fans. I selected the black and white model just because it was slightly cheaper than the all black model.
  
• Power Supply: 7 year warranty. 750W is more than enough for this 449W system, which leaves plenty of room for overclocking and future upgrades. Modular for easier cable management. 80+ gold efficiency.
  
• OS: Windows 10 Pro as requested. However, Windows 10 Home would be fine as long as this PC will not be part of a large network of computers (like in a business office) and as long as you do not care about the remote access feature that Pro has.
  
• Wifi: It is actually much cheaper to get a separate wifi adapter than to get a motherboard with built-in wifi in most cases, particularly since you need gigabit connection speeds. This model is the cheapest gigabit wifi adapter with a large sample size of good reviews. Rated for 1300Mbps on the 5.0 GHz band and 600Mbps on the 2.4hz band. You can spend a bit more on the ASUS AC1900 if you want an extension cable so that the antennas can be in a more advantageous spot. This would only be necessary if the PC will be far from the router or or if the PC will be stuck under a metal desk or something else that would significantly block wifi signals.

Might be the bearing getting old? Safer to buy a new CPU cooler in that case.

In the past, Hyper 212 EVO would be a good replacement, and price can fall as low as $20.

Not sure about the in thing these days though, maybe something like this one. Got budget?

​

I've heard about a few ways to repair, such as replacing with fan from case fan, but I'm no expert on that.

Because you're going with a K series CPU you'll probably want to overclock at some point.

You're going to want to get a different cooler- the i7 8700K runs hot, and the hyper 212 evo isn't a very good cooler. It'll barely be sufficient at stock frequencies, and with an overclock it'll certainly not be enough.

​

I'd recommend something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK022-Cooler-6-Pole-Wings135mm/dp/B07BY6F8D9?th=1

​

I'd also add in this ssd:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/?tag=pcpapi-20

​

An SSD improves user experience *dramatically*. You'll want to install windows on it, not the HDD.

For instance, this: https://www.amazon.com/quiet-Dark-Rock-BK022-Cooler/dp/B07BY6F8D9/ref=sr_1_2?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1573484226&refinements=p_36%3A1253505011&rnid=386442011&s=pc&sr=1-2

will net you MUCH more cooling, closer or better than 240mm AIO's, but for about 40% less.

The be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 is currently the king of CPU air coolers. If that's out of your price range, nothing beats the price/performance ratio of the Hyper 212 EVO.

Sino naka try na mag order sa amazon. Gusto ko kasi tong heatsink nato. Baka kasi sira na pag dating dito.

Air. Going for BE QUIET Dark Rock Pro 4

I went for aesthetic in my build and am happy with having these two 120mm on the bottom of my case in exhaust:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/141-9275322-8501005?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CG2PGY6&pd_rd_r=60afe392-240a-4444-a5a3-7b42be255b55&pd_rd_w=fV2CU&pd_rd_wg=Kd6xh&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=V994273QQFY6HQP1QDDM&psc=1&refRID=V994273QQFY6HQP1QDDM

Maybe referring to Noctua and Be Quiet fans? These can go for $14-25 per fan...

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CG2PGY6/

PCPartPicker Part List

|Type|Item|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|
|CPU|AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor|$117.98 @ Amazon|
|Motherboard|ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard|$74.98 @ Amazon|
|Memory|Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory|$82.99 @ Amazon|
|Storage|Sabrent Rocket 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive|$59.98 @ Amazon|
|Video Card|XFX Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED Video Card|$179.99 @ Amazon|
|Case|In Win G7 ATX Mid Tower Case|$42.00 @ Amazon|
|Power Supply|EVGA GD (2019) 600 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply|$66.77 @ Amazon|
|Case Fan|Rosewill ROCF-13001 38.2 CFM 120 mm Fan|$14.99 @ Amazon|
|Custom|Fancasee 4-Pin PWM Fan Power Supply Cable 1 to 5 Splitter 5 Way PC Case Internal Motherboard Fan Power Extension Cable Cord Wire for ATX Computer Case 4-Pin and 3-Pin Cooling Fans (13 inch, Black)|$7.90 @ Amazon|
||||
|Total|$647.58||
|Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-22 11:45 EDT-0400|||

CPU: The AMD Ryzen 5 2600 with 6 cores and 12 threads should handle any workload you throw at it and gaming is a breeze. This is an overclockable chip so if you want to try doing that later on you can do so no problem.

Motherboard: The ASRock B450M PRO4 is a great motherboard and can handle overclocking if you want to try that in the future and has WiFi and Bluetooth built in.

RAM: The Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB kit has the speed that Ryzen demands. 3200 is a great speed for this gen and does a wonderful job in adding performance.

Storage: The Sabrent Rocket 512GB M.2 SSD has plenty of fast storage in a small M.2 factor with no SATA cables going to it leaving less for cable management.

Video Card: The XFX Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED is a great card and you should be able to game at 1080p 60+fps easily for Destiny 2.

Case: The In Win G7 Mid Tower Case because it looks nice, easy to work in, is black and has great airflow.

Power Supply: The EVGA GD (2019) 600 W 80+ Gold will allow you in the future to upgrade your hardware and still have power left over. You can even overclock your CPU and GPU if you want and have a lot of headroom still. It comes with a 5 year warranty and is a great PSU.

Case Fans: I added a pack of case fans from Amazon to help airflow inside you case since it doesn't come with any. I chose these because they don't cost $20USD a fan and perform well. If you want to spend more money on fans I recommended these for $14USD they are quiet and perform just as good as others.

Custom Parts: I also added a fan hub for $8USD for case fans so you can power most if not all of them from one fan slot on your motherboard.

Total: $647.58USD ~ €581.06 before tax

Total: $701.01USD ~ €629.00 after tax (using Texas sales tax rate of 8.25%)

All of these parts are available from Amazon because I wasn't sure what was available in Germany. If you can't get something where you are let me know and I'll redo the list from a retailer you can get parts from.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask!

This is exactly what I was looking for. Is there any reason I shouldn't get the cheaper one?

1: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A12x25-5V-Premium-Adaptor/dp/B07DXLCVVL

​

2: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=pd_cp_147_2/136-3502457-2079017?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CG2PGY6&pd_rd_r=62bfa581-9359-4dc6-b801-c083c7394735&pd_rd_w=H4Xb6&pd_rd_wg=7AV6M&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=W1YHQXHVRZ6482H00APE&psc=1&refRID=W1YHQXHVRZ6482H00APE

EDIT:.... I honestly know nothing about these. I'm not sure if you can just sit them up vertically in the back of the cabinet or if they have to be installed into the PS4 etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG2PGY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0177GTV9U/?tag=pcpapi-20 maybe this is an option

I need a cheap CPU cooler to cool an LGA1150 i3 4160 that's just running QB torrent, PIA, and someother low impact software.

I just can't get the stock cooler to seat properly. Idling at 90C tried cleaning/re-applying paste but I feel like I just can't get it to tighten down and seat properly. Used fresh Arctic Silver 5 paste.

The $15 ARCTIC Freezer 11 LP looks like a pain in the ass to install compared to the coolers I've installed in the past: Hyper Evo or H100i- which just have the single piece back plate and 4 screws.

So should I just go with the C7? I'm not sure the EVO 212/H7 would fit my case and I'm not trying to spend any more than ~$30 on this.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MymKD8

Need a recommendation for a CPU Cooler for my AM4. I like low profile coolers and white color. This Cryorig fits my needs exactly, but I don't know if it supports AM4 socket. Any advice? Looking to upgrade from the Wraith Spire and get something nice, quiet, small, and preferably white. Thanks!

​

https://www.amazon.com/Cryorig-CR-C7A-Flow-Heatsink-47mm/dp/B0177GTV9U

​

That's alright :). I'd recommend getting the scythe big shuriken or the AXP-100 or the Cryorig C7

So with that case it looks like you're limited to a max cooler height to 65mm, and if you use all of it up you'd be right up to the bottom of the power supply. I'm going to preface this with saying I have my doubts on keeping a 5ghz overclock cool with a cooler under 65mm, but it looks like your best options are Cryorig C7 and the noctua nh-l9 or noctua NH-L9I. The larger noctua may not fit because it maybe touching your power supply. But from what I saw in a few videos the cryorig and the smaller noctua perform similarly just that the noctua was a quieter.

If someone were buying a CPU cooler just for aesthetics (looks), what would you recommend?

I have an i7 4790s with a stock cooler.

I just bought a nice windowed case, and am considering buying a cooler for the looks and decreased temps. I figure I could always use it when I upgrade my CPU/mobo down the line.

Currently I'm considering this one currently meant for an ITX, as it mounts with the fan facing the window:
https://www.amazon.com/Cryorig-CR-C7A-Flow-Heatsink-47mm/dp/B0177GTV9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488213881&sr=8-1&keywords=c7+itx

Other options I should consider? Thanks!

Here you go:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor | $77.99 @ PC Canada
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $40.00
Motherboard | MSI B250I PRO Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $105.98 @ DirectCanada
Memory | G.Skill Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg Canada
Storage | ADATA Ultimate SU800 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $95.00
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $81.99 @ Newegg Canada
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Mini Video Card | $183.99 @ PC Canada
Case | Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case | $54.00 @ shopRBC
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $62.98 @ DirectCanada
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $771.92
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-27 21:08 EDT-0400 |

The SSD can be purchased for $95 from here: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ADATA-Ultimate-SU800-256GB-3D-NAND-2-5-Inch-SATA-III-Internal-Solid-State-Drive-/172356913276

And the Cryorig C7 for $40 from here: https://www.amazon.ca/Cryorig-Flow-Heatsink-47mm-Mini/dp/B0177GTV9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493341497&sr=8-1&keywords=cryorig+c7

I would upgrade the GPU to something like the RX 470 but it doesn't seem like any fit in this case but there is an RX 570 that does but is $200+ right now. I'm not sure if you'd be willing to spend up to $800 on this but I did put in a 4GB VRAM GTX 1050 Ti. I wouldn't recommend going with cards lower than that amount especially if you wanted some sort of future proofing. You can go with the regular GTX 1050 or RX 460 but they are only really good for e-sports titles that are relatively easy to run (e.g. CS:GO).

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! :)

A Mini-ITX small case that can be used until the Dancase is available is the Thermaltake Core V1 is 276 x 260 x 316 mm (10.9 x 10.2 x 12.4 inch, HardOCP review). It has a window on top, and grills on the sides. The entire front of the case is a 200mm fan for extreme airflow. Try the appropriate compact and quiet Cryorig coolers.

Buy these part in addition to the case:
Corsair SF Series, SF450, SFX Form Factor, 450 Watt

(Buy the 600 watt rather then the 450 watt if you are going to be overclocking.)

And the adapter plate:
SilverStone Technology Universal ATX to SFX Power Supply Bracket RL-PP08B

And this cooler fits and lets you overclock:
CRYORIG M9i Mini Tower Cooler for INTEL CPUs

Or, if you are not overclocking, you can get the Silverstone Raven Z02B-W, or the non-windowed Z02B version for $10 less. You will need the above SFX small power supply, but not the adapter plate.

SilverStone Technology Mini-ITX Slim Small Form Factor Computer Case with Side Window RVZ02B-W

Cryorig C7 CR-C7A Top Flow CPU Heatsink 47mm

If you a referring to the c7 it's absolutely still being made. Cryorig is no longer selling in the US through the normal channels. Outlet PC is the only authorized retailer in the US and they are taking FOREVER to get in product. That being said $50 isn't unreasonable but if you look hard enough you could probably ship it from overseas for roughly the same or less.

Comes to 41.33 USD shipped from the UK to the US from Amazon and it's new.

Cryorig MICOCR-C7 CPU Cooling Fan, Silver https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0177GTV9U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_w6aZDbPKB9ZAR

Right now i'm using the stock cooler on my 6500 and running in the low 40C while running battlefield 1. cryorig makes some amazing coolers and im looking into putting on one of their smaller coolers on my pc in the future like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Cryorig-CR-C7A-Flow-Heatsink-47mm/dp/B0177GTV9U/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1481315951&sr=8-10&keywords=cpu+cooler

Cryorig C7 CR-C7A Top Flow CPU Heatsink 47mm SFF Mini ITX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0177GTV9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ecAwybN5HAM8P

How is that cpu cooler compare to the 212 and the cryorg h7?

Not overclocking, just looking for aesthetics. Is there anything i should know about that cooler? I have only used tower coolers, nothing low profile like this. Does it get in the way of ram, not cool as good, etc.

Also, is it as universal as the 212? I specifically need to fit it on an am3 board currently, but plan on using it on and upgraded build later on.

Edit: i read that it is universal, will fit the am3.

We have it in canada you can probably get it shipped to the US. https://www.amazon.ca/Cryorig-Flow-Heatsink-47mm-Mini/dp/B0177GTV9U/

It's worth pointing out that this is the successor model to the Cryorig C7 CR-C7A which is $20 cheaper and one of the mostly highly reviewed budget CPU coolers around, especially on builds where space is limited.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S7YA5FQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472919120&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=cryorig&dpPl=1&dpID=51x09SwfjeL&ref=plSrch
Or if that is too tall for your case
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0177GTV9U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472919171&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=cryorig&dpPl=1&dpID=41zwdVMzwYL&ref=plSrch

ASUS Z170-A ATX DDR4 Motherboards

i5 6600k

[Cryorig C7 CR-C7A]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177GTV9U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Alright, well can I still overclock it without worrying about it? Well for a few months?

Also what GPU would you recommend for this setup? I was looking into the rx 480 or save more money and buy a more powerful gtx gpu.

have a similar build in the works but i haven't bought a cooler yet. Is this going to work instead of the C7G? I can't seem to find the C7G anywhere except a chinese website.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177GTV9U?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=GAGSJCVHMJ9C4JSKF2D6

Or go with a Hyper 212 with a led fan https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Direct-Contact-Unique/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1485788404&sr=8-31&keywords=aio+water+cooler

You will need a new CPU cooler I recommend this

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Direct-Contact-Unique/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483483342&sr=8-2&keywords=Hyper+212

Hyper 212 is super cheap semi easy to install and a solid cooler for a light OC so for you to get to 4Ghz. Your motherboard isn't the best but it should work for the FX 6300 to reach 4Ghz.

As for overclocking I used this guide back in the day

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MckeAmnDeTk

This is for the FX 8350 but the FX 8350 and FX 6300 are the same chip except the FX 8250 has 2 more cores on it so the overclocking rules are the same overall.

As for temps I know your feeling I live in a literal desert cactus filled desert so I know temps with the hyper 212 you will be good with 4Ghz as long as you remember to keep your computer clean :)

I'm not sure this fits the case, but it fits your budget and is an excellent cooler. Scroll down, buy the used version for $19. I've bought two of these recently and they had everything and were like brand new.

Cooler Master RR-212L-16PR-R1 Hyper 212 LED CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes, Unique Blade Design and Red LEDs
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RZ1vDbY38GB5T

I have that Noctua cooler in a Deskmini. It's great with the 2400G at stock speeds. Near silent

Another idea: I've also had a Hyper 212 in the past. $30 at the moment https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Contact-Cooling-RR-212L-16PR-R1/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hyper+212&qid=1565137804&s=gateway&sr=8-3 Seems a bit of a bargain. I never noticed the noise of the Hyper 212.

$15 212 evo, don't know how much shipping is gonna be for ya https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KBXKP8W/

Oh thanks!I thought aio was not that expensive,do you recommend this cpu cooler for the ryzen 3 1200?

Hey, since your budget is around $1350, I can't say much but its best for you to choose your own keyboard, mouse, and headphones because they're personal equipment meaning one might not work best for you if it doesn't suit you comfortably. So, for now, I'm just gonna give you a PC build w/ monitor + OS only.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor | $237.59 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 LED 66.3 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $14.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI - Z370 GAMING PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $89.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Patriot - Viper Elite 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $80.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate - NAS HDD 1TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive | $42.49 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card | $509.99 @ Amazon
Case | DIYPC - J180-W ATX Mid Tower Case | $23.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $75.88 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | BenQ - GL2460HM 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $117.58 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1355.37
| Mail-in rebates | -$72.00
| Total | $1283.37
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-29 14:06 EDT-0400 |

EDIT: I forgot to add that some parts MIGHT not be available for international shipping like newegg. So if most of newegg products are unavailable in the Philippines, use amazon as an alternate. I just found out the GTX 1070 Ti I listed is not available in the Philippines. Buy these instead:

GTX 1070 Ti: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-1070-GAMING-GV-N107TGAMING-8GD/dp/B077P9HX2V/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525025384&sr=1-4&keywords=gtx+1070+ti - same price as above

CPU Cooler: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212L-16PR-R1-Direct-Contact/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525025838&sr=1-1&keywords=Cooler+Master+-+Hyper+212+LED+66.3+CFM+Rifle+Bearing+CPU+Cooler - $24.99

CPU: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i5-8600K-Processor-Unlocked-BX80684i58600K/dp/B0759FKH8K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525025985&sr=1-1&keywords=i5-8600k - $238.99

Motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Z370-GAMING-PLUS-Motherboard/dp/B075GSVHGP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525026069&sr=1-1&keywords=MSI+-+Z370+GAMING+PLUS+ATX+LGA1151+Motherboard - $109.99

RAM: https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Viper-Elite-2800MHz-PVE48G280C6KRD/dp/B0196AWR1Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525026139&sr=1-2&keywords=Patriot+-+Viper+Elite+8GB+%282+x+4GB%29+DDR4-2400+Memory - $84.99

Case: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Versa-Computer-Chassis-CA-1B2-00M1NN-00/dp/B00J0NZ5N0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525026260&sr=1-1&keywords=ThermalTake%2BH21&th=1 - $38.58

Buy those as an alternate (for newegg) and you're good to go! It shouldn't make such a price difference.

Yep. That's too high. Shouldn't go beyond 70 if you CPU isn't overclocked. Get new thermal paste on the CPU and clean the cooler. You could also look into a cheap after market cooler like the Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED or DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GTE

I got this for my R5. It's just a regular cooler but it is good if you aren't confident in watercooling yet (I'm very skeptical about leaks and whatnot).

For a monetarily cheap watercooler though, I was considering this for a long time. You can request an am4 bracket (or maybe you have to buy one? I think they're like 5$ if you do).

edit: I see you meant watercooling for your gpu lol, can't help you there

Please don't attempt to OC with the built-in utility, especially not on the stock cooler. It may unnecessarily increase voltage, and it most certainly won't be stable. Try this cooler, or similar: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B01KBXKP8W and then Linus TechTips has a nice, detailed OC guide, which you could use with your current CPU or an i7 upgrade here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CHs5_TdpXE. What PSU do you have, also? Your power supply can cause instability when overclocking, if it can't output an adequate amount of power with sufficient voltage stability.

Definetly gonna buy cpu cooler, is this the latest one?

http://www.amazon.in/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-CPU/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1497355793&sr=1-1&keywords=hyper+212+led

The Ryzen 7 1700X doesnt come with a cpu cooler, so that was why I included one. You can't use a cpu without a cooler.

Here are some alternative coolers that will perform basically the same to the one that is sold out:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KBXKP8W/?tag=pcpapi-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N67NQ5/?tag=pcpapi-20&th=1

yea stock is a bit noisy, a cheap and decent upgrade would probably be an old 212. https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B01KBXKP8W?th=1 they go on sale for as low as 15 bucks sometimes too. but those things are pretty quiet for how well they work. (and the price) plus you can go ahead and repaste it when you upgrade

​

edit: also i built my mom an identical 8120 build with a different gpu. that thing has been on 12 hours a day 5-7 days a week since 2011 and is still going strong.

this makes me HAVE SEX

Also, how does this remind you of periods?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=twister_B06WRV2YXR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I purchased earlier this year.


Cooler Master RR-212L-16PR-R1 Hyper 212 LED CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes, Unique Blade Design and Red LEDs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6POMBbC26SBWG

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01KBXKP8W/?tag=pcp0f-20
I used this for a while to cool my 6700k @4.7. It kept it at 79° after 15 minutes at full load.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Direct-Contact-Unique/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502468768&sr=8-1&keywords=cooler+master+212+led is the place I purchased. My box clearly states that this cooler is AM4 Compatible straight out of box with no new brackets required.

My Model Number is: RR-212L-16PR-R1
My Ticket is 00107441.
There are numerous other people on newegg that seem to have the same issue, even when they receive the new 212 LED
It looks just like this, with the slit in the middle for the retention handle.
http://assets.coolermaster.com/products/hyper212-led/img/web_hyper_212led_01_01.png

I have not heard back from Coolermaster since 8/4/2017

To be completely honest I wouldn't use the stock cooler for anything modern. You should definitely get an aftermarket cooler but that one's a little much. I have thisin my rig atm and it doesn't get above 55 C even under heavy load (But i don't use the stock fan. I used the brackets that came with it and swapped out the fan with two of my own, since it came with an extra set for the other side.

My setup is a 4690k with gtx 970 and 16gb of ram.

Previously this was fine for the types of games I was playing (mostly War Thunder) but now I have bought CoD and Jedi Fallen Order I have noticed my CPU running consistently at 100% and giving me fps drops in both games.

I plan to upgrade my cpu (and therefore probably motherboard and RAM eventually) when I can afford to but for now I was planning on running an OC on my cpu to get a little more out of it.

My question is what CPU cooler would you recommend that would work with my current 4690k but also be good enough for my new cpu when I eventually upgrade.

I would like to spend less than £50 ($65). I dont care too much about noise or RGB but I would like it to not be obnoxiously loud or ugly.

Would a beginner like me notice the difference between something like this vs this?

My case is a zalman z11

TL;DR: Want to OC my 4690k but need a better cooler. Needs to also work for my eventual upgraded CPU

This one should enough for you
Your gpu is not a super fast one so it doesn't need big cooler
Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes, Unique Blade Design and Red LEDs Cooling (RR-212L-16PR-R1) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z28TDbGJHDWJF

But if you buget is big a I suggest any nocuta CPU cooler because there just the best
Or a be quite if you want you want your PC to make less noise

Last question, would it be better instead to get this cooler (which has a $15 mail in rebate, that I can essentially get for $7 CDN) instead of the liquid one? - https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Contact-Cooling-RR-212L-16PR-R1/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480083097&sr=8-2&keywords=hyper+212

It all depends on your budget. If you can afford liquid cooling for the CPU, you'll be able to overclock it higher. If not there's this cooler for cheap which everyone recommends: https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Contact-Cooling-RR-212L-16PR-R1/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480083097&sr=8-2&keywords=hyper+212

The motherboard always confuses me, just do your research there. This one looks like it would pair up nicely with that 1070. http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128837

I'd recommend this PSU http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX52306

is this good https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Contact-Cooling-RR-212L-16PR-R1/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525601659&sr=8-5&keywords=cpu+cooler

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KBXKP8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Enjoy

Follow up question, amazon users are giving mixed answers on whether Cooler Master Hyper 212 CPU Cooler fits or not. If you can clarify the same, it will be very helpful.

​

Edit: After watching this guy's video I bought the case. Although his video mentions SPEC-M2 version, the lengths are the same.

I swapped the stock cooler out on day 1 for the original Hyper212 , so not sure how good it is .

Anyway , I just recently changed to this newer Hyper 212 Led $30 , it is much much more easier to install in comparison with the original one , as the fan snapped easily to the heatsink without the need of metal retention . I'm quite satisfied and recommending this easily if OP is into overclocking .

Thanks for the support folks. Even without the 100 gift card this is a steal, so I'm in. Always been interested, but the price point has been my barrier.

For the techie types, here's was i got in addition to the bundle.

Cooler

Thermal Paste

USB 3.0 Card

At some point i got a coolermaster one that is pretty damn good. I got it because I was having issues with reboots and whatnot (all caused by a failing PSU, a month before the 7 year warranty wore off). Yes, folks, the extra money for the high quality PSU is worth it. I got a new one after 6.95 years. :)

​

This is what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KBXKP8W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

when i bought it, i only paid $30. I'm almost positive I could overclock higher.

​

My overclocking history:

​

2011-2018 not overclocked

2018- now overclocked to 4.0

​

It was stable at 4.2, but i figured 4.0 was enough. I'm sure I could push it pretty high.

What does everyone think of this cooler?

Annnd does not ship until the new year.. super lame.

May buy this

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01KBXKP8W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Interesting, it does say it's compatible on the Amazon page as well. Not sure why they have a dedicated AM4 version then

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-Premium-Dual-Tower/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=noctua+am4&qid=1565185135&s=computers&sr=1-6

Looks like it's just a special edition?

Slap those noctuas on this, https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16835181103?ignorebbr=true&nm_mc=OTC-Froogle-Mobile&cm_mmc=OTC-Froogle-Mobile-_-Liquid+%2f+Water+Cooling-_-Corsair-_-35181103&gclid=CjwKCAiAo9_QBRACEiwASknDwYdIWQipWiZwDIwdI0qUxIcZUecIwbnbFio_o6xQ2kSjITy682_pzBoCu_QQAvD_BwE H100iv2 aio for $89. I own it, its a beast. But if you wanna stick with air, the nhd15 is ginna be your best bet Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 Premium-Grade 140mm Dual Tower CPU Cooler for AMD AM4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TrhgAb3TN57P0

I honestly wouldn't bother with water cooling. The Noctua NH-D15 is as good as any AIO, non-AIO water cooling is very expensive and does require maintenance, so unless you're planning on cranking the voltage and the clocks of your CPU, with a motherboard with a VRM solution that can keep up, I think water cooling isn't worth it.

Nem az Asus itt a ludas hanem a noctua. Ez a hűtőt régen árulták am4-nélkül mikor még ugye nem jelent meg és azért. Vagy külön megveszed az átalakítót vagy az am4-es verziót veszed meg, magyarországon nem találtam.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT

You can get a Noctua Air Cooler for a bit less money. Should provide the same cooling. I think LTT did a video on that. But i'd stick with the AIO, just because it makes the build more sexy. PC building more than just the best-bang-for-the-buck. Just my two cents though

Personally I'm just waiting on an X370 motherboard and R7 1800X CPU. Currently have a RX480 (provided in list anyway) as a tie over until Vega. Also preordered the AM4 mounting kit for the NH-D15. Alternatively, you can preorder the special edition AM4 model, but I prefer the versatility of all sockets. The 1300w PSU is way overkill, but I wanted to leave myself the possiblity of a second vega years down the line to scale perf when mgpu and DX12 become more mainstream. I was also creating the possibility of water cooling. Either way, its got a 10yr warranty so should be good all the way until the tech doesn't matter anymore. Bought these all over the last week or so :)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $85.49 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill TridentZ Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $274.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 960 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $329.00 @ B&H
Video Card | Asus Radeon RX 480 8GB ROG STRIX Video Card | $244.99 @ Jet
Case | Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX ATX Mid Tower Case | $169.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 1300W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $182.03 @ Jet
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1286.49
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-11 14:14 EST-0500 |

Just found this one. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1487713748&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=amd+am4

Not a fan (see what i did there) of the color scheme but to each there own.

Just buy the AM4 version of the NDH 15?
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540343320&sr=8-3&keywords=noctua+and+d15&dpID=51xcGRRFrrL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Considering buying this cooler

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-Premium-Dual-Tower/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543280486&sr=8-2&m=AUJBRIGYRJ3Q8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Noctua&dpPl=1&dpID=51xcGRRFrrL&ref=plSrch

Just want to confirm if I ever want to use this in an Intel system I can just buy the NM i115x Mounting-Kit for hassle free installation correct?

Should I pull the trigger or do you think this will go on sale on boxing day?

Oh nice! I'll look into that, thanks!

EDIT: I actually found this one for AM4 boards with the same price as the non-AM4 variant.

>Noctua NH-D15 SE AM4

Great Choice. But hard to justify the $90.

Would be interested in developing a performance cost model to figure out how much cooling solution brings how much value over life time.

I was thinking this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FwASybYBMFPDA

Generally, liquid cooling is better. However, Noctua’s high end air coolers would suffice (I.e., Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 Premium-Grade 140mm Dual Tower CPU Cooler for AMD AM4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.dSNBbQKMF50C )

Noctua makes a few specific coolers for AM4 boards..

this
that

The 1700 is probably overkill for you, so the 1600 is an option. Also, unless you're planning on overclocking to 3.9ghz+, the stock cooler should be fine on the 1600 (not x series).

A liquid CPU cooler seems like overkill for a Ryzen.

A NH-D15 at 90$ would cool almost as well at a much lower price and is quieter.

If you're already spending 80$ or more for a Corsair AIO maybe check out the Noctua NH-D15 instead, it provides as good if not better cooling as a 120mm AIO,

AIOs have a point of failure of the pump itself, the radiators can be a pain to clean depending on how close the find are, and also water cooling saturates the heat into water making it come to an equilibrium and also once you stop whatever intense workload you just did, the water will still take some odd minutes to cool back down.

With a traditional dual tower heatsink the point of failure is fans, but you can see if they stop spinning and know something is wrong, a waterblock pump? Only if it's loud and stops being loud, or if you see your temps increasing really fast. With heatsinks the fin stacks do get hot, but they are dissipating the heat rather than just soaking it.

Edits: Right two more things, 1. More surface area of a dual tower than on a single 120mm rad, and 2. I forgot to link to the NH-D15 that works with AM4 (oh and Noctua has one of the easiest mounting systems ever).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NC06ZYT/

Get one of these if you are sensitive to noise and want to reach higher clocks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NC06ZYT/

Hey, I got a MSI x570 gaming plus and my CPU (3600x) temperature can reach 55°C at idle even with a great case (Silverstone RL06 pro, recommended by Gamers Nexus) and a Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 . The ambient temp is around 21°C. When stressing the CPU with CPU-Z it stays constant at 70°C.
These temps are quite high...

I just got my Noctua NH-D15-SE-AM4 through this morning. Much bigger cooler than I was expecting I was pleasantly surprised.

Strange, took this screenshot no more than half an hour ago: https://imgur.com/gallery/XKYra

Edit: Here's the link, shows to be restocking on August 28th, you may be seeing a non AM4 version of the NH-D15.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NC06ZYT/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm guessing I can save money with this CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NC06ZYT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1

I haven't seen much evidence that an AIO pump can actually scale to a radiator of that size. 240mm seems to be the sweet spot, or you can use a 280 if your ears are sensitive to fan noise (bigger fans can move the same amount of air while rotating at a lower RPM). If you want to go bigger than that, you'll need a custom open loop to get meaningfully better thermals.

Meanwhile, an AIO cooler isn't even necessarily worth the premium versus a high-quality air cooler, the latter of which has no pumps that can fail or coolant that can leak. A Thermalright Macho or Scythe Mugen will perform very well, for much less than a comparable 240 AIO.

Just make sure that the heatsink isn't blocked by tall RAM sticks. If you have those, you'll need something like the Fuma 2.

be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4, BK022, 250W TDP, CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BY6F8D9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XAstDbDVVEBR0

That's the pro 4, it's the higher end version of the one you posted for the same price on Amazon.

Or here is the slim for $65 on Newegg, I guess it is a bit more than $40:

https://www.newegg.com/p/13C-001F-00030

And if you want something a little cheaper, my friend uses this on his 8700k, so a 7700k should be absolutely fine:

Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B 120mm CPU Cooler with AM4 Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VDstDbEBZAD0N

and it stays at 95C? Oof. almost makes me think a cooler is improperly installed. this will fit with 10mm to spare.

sorry to bother u again but are there any differences between those mugens?

1 2


edit : #2 is not even available atm so doesn't matter i guess..

If anything, go for for Mugen 5 to make it a worthwhile upgrade.

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525054980&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=scythe+mugen+5&dpPl=1&dpID=51q4QErspJL&ref=plSrch

This would be my personal pick. Haven't tried the MasterAir Pro yet- so no comments about it- but since the Evo, CM has never made a worthy air cooler- hence the credibility of their newer models are at stake. Feel free to give a try though, or stick with the safer alternatives; like the Noctua U14, D14, Cryorig H5 Ultimate, R1, Le Grand Macho, Scythe Mugen 5 etc. These are tried and proven by many.

Define "budget."

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77

I want to upgrade my Ryzen 5 2600 stock cooler. My goals are less noise and maybe some overclocking headroom. 3 of my options are:

​

|$24|Gammaxx 400|TDP 125W|RPM 1500|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|$36|Cryorig H7|TDP 150W|RPM 1600|
|$47|Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. b|TDP >200W|RPM 1200|

​

The first two are comparable to Hyper 212 Evo, and are good enough to cool the 2600. All 3 have a 120mm fan.

​

Do you think it would be sane to buy the Mugen 5 in order to have a quieter cooler, as well as... a much better cooler overall? Or should I go with the better value for the money?

Christ on a bike, buy a cheaper CPU cooler. Something like a Scythe Mugen 5 is almost half the price and probably performs the same.

I'd consider swapping the 1070ti for a (not reference) Vega 56. They're pretty much identical in performance and price, so the main benefit is not being locked into pricey Gsync monitors and Nvidia drivers.

Also, make sure the 450W PSU is enough for the system. It seems low, but hardware has gotten really power efficient!

Edit:

Another area to save a lot on is the motherboard. I'm not sure what you're planning on doing, but if it's gaming all you need is a b-450 motherboard. Consider an MATX form factor if you aren't going to use all the extra slots afforded by pricier ATX sized boards. This MSI MATX board for example.

You could save even more by buying an older b-350 or x370 board and making sure the bios are updated to support your 2000 series ryzen processor.

on sale right now for 47.99 which is great value for a great cooler

O well my room isn't that hot haha but probably around 80ish degrees or so.

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77 - shows around $50

Was actually looking at the Arctic Freezers, saw a good review on youtube other day.

You could get the Ninja 4 instead which is similar performing in terms of perf/dB https://www.amazon.it/dp/B00W7AR2IY

Or, for the same price as the Macho, I recommend either the
FUMA - https://www.amazon.it/dp/B071XCCM7V
Mugen 5 - https://www.amazon.it/dp/B06ZYB8K77
or Ninja 5 - https://www.amazon.it/dp/B079X3DBH8
Which all perform better.

here ya go.
Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B 120mm Air CPU Cooler, Tower Heatsink with 6 Heatpipes, Quiet PWM Fan, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wC0ODbV47SBJN

add the 5 percent for a couple bucks off.
this was on pc buildsales

Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B

Dark Rock 4

Noctua NH-U12s (Newly released black colored versions)

Alternatively, you can get the dual tower versions for the Dark Rock and Noctua coolers. You can also get another fan for the Scythe if you want.

I personally have the Scythe cooler. It’s very quiet and gets the job done, all for the great price of ~$50. It’s pretty underrated.

The other 2 coolers are higher end and really great from what I’ve heard, but they are a little more expensive.

Just a side note, but you gotta reply to my message or else I'm not notified of it.

For 144hz+ gameplay, you're probably going to want a better graphics card unless you're playing on lower settings, or doing Esports titles. I'd suggest a few things here-

1. The CPU cooler you have is great, but it's largely a waste of money unless you are intent on overclocking this to the absolute maximum. I'd suggest something like this, which will deliver excellent cooling capacity https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77
   
   
2. You will likely want even faster RAM, as this is important for eking out the most frames at 144hz+ 3600, preferably low CAS memory is desired.
   
   
3. I suggest compiling a list of your games and checking out some benchmarks. Places like Hardware Unboxed have done benchmarks comparing things like the 5700XT to the 2060S in huge 30+ game comparisons. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oej2ev3g-sM
   
   
4. If those benchmarks listed above demonstrate that you will NOT be able to hit the framerates you desire, you're going to need to shave more off the build in order to step up to a 2080S or something, unless you opt for a used 1080ti or something. A cheaper SSD wouldn't hurt gaming performance in the slightest per example, or a cheaper motherboard, etc. If you have a student ID or something you can also get Windows 10 at a discount.

I believe this should help:
https://youtu.be/2GSoaRsuke4

The runner up, the Mugen 5, is currently at $44.49 on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cJc2Db34TQR06

It's the Scythe Mugen 5 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYB8K77/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1K48CS0K3BRLW&psc=1, but I will be using the stock fan that it comes with and I will put it near the rear and I will be using a https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HN199YJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A1TG24VCRPTZ06&psc=1 for my second fan that is on thefront

Hi, anyone know if the Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B 120mm CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYB8K77/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is noticeably better than the Wraith Prism? I'm running around 40 C idle right now and would like to push that closer to 30.

Any advice on this cooler? It seems more budget friendly than noctua options.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYB8K77/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1K48CS0K3BRLW&psc=1

The wraith cooler is quite good, but if you still want a better cooler go for this https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK022-Cooler-6-Pole-Wings135mm/dp/B07BY6F8D9 , I personally don't prefer AIO

It's not even a question of that--I can't make any promises that your chip doesn't have bad thermal paste beneath the IHS, or that it's even good enough to run 5.0 GHz, or that any cooler will be good enough to run it at 5.0 GHz if the thermal paste is cracked beneath the IHS etc.

I had an unmodified 7700K that when new was an absolutely fantastic unit, went up to 5.1 GHz, ran very cool and on low voltages on 5.0 GHz, ran absurdly well on 4.8 GHz etc. and then a year and a half later the paste beneath had deteriorated to the point that my previously fantastic unit could no longer even run 5.0 GHz under load.

Delidding it^link and putting liquid metal between the chip and the IHS dropped ~25-30°C off my temperatures and I was once again able to run 5.0 GHz.

These 7700K chips are known for their thermal paste issues.

On top of all of that I don't even know anything about your chip, you haven't even tried more than 4.7 GHz yourself, and that's a long long way from 5.0 GHz.

The Scythe Fuma cooler is hands down the best value you'll get when it comes to quality cooling. It performs nearly the same as the 50% more expensive Noctua NH-D15, but obviously has slightly louder and worse fans than Noctua (theirs are the best).

Scythe Fuma: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-SCFM-1000-SCFM-1000-Fuma-CPU-Cooler/dp/B016XLGATE

Noctua NH-D15: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-D15-Premium-Cooler-Cooling/dp/B00L7UZMAK

BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 4: https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUIET-Dark-Silent-Wings-Cooler/dp/B07BY6F8D9

These are the three top-of-the-line coolers I'd consider if I wanted to make sure my cooler wasn't holding me back from 5.0 GHz. They are very tall coolers so make sure that's going to be alright in your case space-wise and clearance-wise for your RAM.

Alternatively to the noctua theres this https://www.amazon.com/quiet-Computer-Cooler-250TDP-Silent/dp/B07BY6F8D9 That scores almost as well as the NHD15. I just prefer the Noctua for RAM clearance. I have plans on an RGB mod for it soon. Just wish Noctua made RGB Fans, cause honestly their fans rock but they are fugly.

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK022-Cooler-6-Pole-Wings135mm/dp/B07BY6F8D9/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536276104&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=be+quiet+dark+rock+pro+4

I wouldn't bother with an H310 motherboard if you're wanting to OC. Get a Z370/Z390 motherboard. Make sure you get a K series CPU (i7-8700k vs the i7-8700, for example) with it, or you'll not be able to do any meaningful overclocking.

​

A 1070ti doesn't make much sense to me right now...for about the same price, you can get an RTX 2070. Should get better performance per dollar, unless you're buying a cheap used 1070ti.

​

Watercooling is great, but expensive to start out with. The cooling per dollar on water is not nearly as good as an air cooler, however, so I'd suggest starting on air with better parts and upgrading to water later. A high quality air cooler and good thermal paste will easily outperform a similarly priced water setup. I'd recommend air cooling with something like the BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BY6F8D9/ref=twister_B06ZZ1T1KL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 ) tower cooler for a start. It's plenty powerful for most overclocking, quiet, and easier to set up than a water loop. If you're set on water cooling, start with whatever 240mm AIO has the prettiest RGB in your opinion. If you're thinking of a custom loop, expect to spend a lot more....loop parts add up quickly...quality fans alone will cost half as much as that air cooler.

Good build, but I would suggest buying a CPU cooler such as this Cyrorig cooler or Be quiet! Dark Rock 4 cooler

Having framerate issues in tf2, which is expected when the game is as old and unoptimized as it is. Right now I'm running 1440p/144hz, but will probably swap it out for a 1080p/165hz in the future.

As for current temps, I idle at ~35°C, running MSI Kombustor's CPU burner on all 8 threads has me jumping up to 85°C almost instantly, reaching just under 90°C after about a minute. I'll chalk up the higher temps earlier to warmer ambient temperature, but I may take a look at the thermal paste if this sounds wrong.

Currently I don't see any potential for overclocking with my current cooler, hence the desire for a better one.

Looking at the Noctua NH-D15 and Dark Rock Pro 4 right now, if that opens up any suggestions.

ITX builds generated by this system assume that you will be using a really small case in which no GPU longer than 20cm will fit. Hence the weirdness, I will do my best to fix it up. If you however remove that limitation, you get something far more reasonable and pretty much identical to your build:

|Part type|Name|URL|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|motherboard|Asus ROG STRIX Z390-H Gaming|https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119158|184.99|
|processor|Intel Core i9 9900k|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B005404P9I/?tag=envybits-20|489.99|
|memory|Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB 3200MHz CL16|https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820236391|359.99|
|video_card|MSI RTX 2080Ti Gaming X Trio|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07GJ3ZD69/?tag=envybits-20|1349.99|
|drive|Samsung 970 Evo 1.0TB M.2-2280 SSD|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07CGJNLBB/?tag=envybits-20|279.99|
|power_supply|Thermaltake Toughpower 750W 80+ Gold|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B00IUQRPQS/?tag=envybits-20|89.15|
|cooler|be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07BY6F8D9/?tag=envybits-20|67.09|
|total|-|-|2821.19|

It’s been proven that air coolers are just as good if not better than water coolers and are a hell of a lot more safe and reliable. I’m biased, but I would suggest a nice air cooler like a dark rock pro.

Clearly I had a morning brain fart. Sorry about that.

​

I use one. AIOs leaking is the chance you take. Sometimes the AIO manufacturer will reimburse you for damaged components, but often they will not. If you're that worried about it, get an air cooler.

​

When I purchased my GPU, CPU and motherboard from MicroCenter, I got their extended warranty which covers damage from such things. That's offered solely by MicroCenter and worth every penny, just in case the improbable happens.


Edit: More to the point, a good and mostly quiet air cooler would be the Noctua NH-D15 or the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4

I would not spend on liquid cooling at all because it can cause problems and if something goes wrong might damage the system. Also air cooling performs better and keeps the CPU cooled better than fancy RGB liquid cooled. I would consider the Be Quiet Dark Pro 4 CPU cooler which is the best in my opinion and perfectly fits your case. But if you want to go liquid cooling and all the faults they can have with the pump you can go for this which I do not recommend just so you know. link

I had this one in mind. Thoughts?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07BY6F8D9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ysavCbNG8RNKB

https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUIET-Dark-Silent-Wings-Cooler/dp/B07BY6F8D9/ref=asc_df_B07BY6F8D9/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310762440393&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8169998486074272414&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006626&hvtargid=pla-444753474405&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Noctua has a good reputation for having some of the best performing fans though they are a bit pricey maybe because of the demand for them if spending $20 or more per case fan is too much going for cheaper fan's wouldn't be the worse idea as replacing a fan is easier these fan's are pretty cheap and it comes with 3 of them Noctua also has some of the best CPU Coolers

Here's a couple of CPU coolers if they cost too much there's a couple others I can think of

Noctua NH-D15 one of the best coolers by noctua the FSP case may have trouble mounting this.

Noctua NH-U14S a more budget cooler but still capable might be a bit louder then the D15 the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

Dark Rock Pro 4 one of the most recommended CPU coolers I've seen at the moment probably because of it's price for a dual heat sink tower cooler the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

​

Corsair H115i a very high end Liquid cooler it's expensive but it'll definitely get the job done might have better overclocking performance as AIO cooler's don't suffer from stark changes in temperatures with an air cooler you may see temperature spikes for example your CPU is sitting at 40 C and it jumps up to 50 C for a second and then quickly climbs back down this is pretty rare for an AIO Liquid cooler

with all the clearance issue's with the FSP case you could look into this case it would be wide enough to fit all cooler's I mentioned here while also not being too expensive

One additional note on the GPU choice - as PlaysForDays noted, the "standard" RTX 2080 performs only a bit higher (~10%) than the $499 RTX 2070 Super (Gigabyte 2070 Super as an example), but retails for several hundred dollars more. Its successor, the RTX 2080 Super can be found for $699-$730 (eg, this card, or this card), making it a smarter choice than your listed $689 Gigabyte RTX 2080.

Performance differences will vary from game to game, but essentially there's no reason to choose an RTX 2080 at $690 when for ten or twenty dollars more you can pick up an RTX 2080 Super. Conversely, dropping to a 2070 Super can save you two hundred bucks for giving up about ten percent in performance. For a build this powerful, I'd simply step up to the 2080 Super and call it a day. :)

The other observations about the motherboard are also valid. The Gaming X isn't a bad board, but it's not compelling when alternatives such as the Aorus Elite exist for a very minor bump in price.

For a CPU cooler, if you plan on using a traditional air cooler, go with either a Noctua NH-D15 or the Dark Rock Pro 4 from the irritatingly yet aptly named "be quiet!" They're both top tier, very high quality coolers with low noise fans which include mounting hardware for AM4 boards. They'll handle the 3900X's heat with no issues and you'll have some headroom for overclocking if you desire.

Get NH-D15S or Dark Rock Pro 4

These are top of the line and in your price range:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK022-Cooler-6-Pole-Wings135mm/dp/B07BY6F8D9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dark+rock+pro+4&qid=1554754371&s=electronics&sr=1-1

here

These 120mm Noctua redux fans are $13.90...seems like a good comparison if you don't mind not having the rgbleed.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=noctua+120mm&qid=1566349154&s=gateway&sr=8-4

They recently added a grey: Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM, High Performance Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 1700 RPM (120mm, Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DYAmDbE5A1418

Unfortunately I have a small case that doesn’t offer much for air flow, I have the bottom and side fans as intake, and the back and top two fans as exhaust.

What fans should I look at? I was looking at these Noctua fans

if you want a super budget air cooler, get the Gammax 400 and replace the fan with this guy:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542611187&sr=1-10&keywords=noctua+120mm+pwm

Any 120mm fan will work without an issue here. I would stick with a well known brand such as Corsair or Noctua: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541915300&sr=1-8&keywords=120mm+case+fan

> My only other question is if zip ties are a viable option when it comes to attaching the new fan.

Zip ties are fine if that is what you wish to use to attach the fan.

I just bought 3 of the noctua 120mm 1700 RPM fans in the link below. I'm going to install them this weekend and I'll let you know the results:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=noctua+redux&qid=1558069546&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Thanks for the suggestion, is there a particular price range for the quality ones? i can see ones for £12 each, do you think these would be any good?

Well its the Hyper 212 EVO from Cooler Master and it has those spare mounting parts that attach to the heatsink so I think it should work.

​

Any tips on a suitable fan or something with specific RPM or CFM? I'm thinking of a Noctua NF-P12 that has 1700 RPM but I'm not sure about the CFM.

​

For the record heres what I was considering: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=noctua&qid=1557876672&s=electronics&sr=1-9

I just finished my first PC last week and it’s very similar to yours. Make sure your case can fit the NH-D15 because I had to switch cases last minute. Also make sure the second fan on it will clear your RAM. For 120mm fans, I think 120mm is the go to. For 140mm, 140mm.

Edit: Actually that’s the same height ram as mine so you’ll for sure have to raise the second fan a tiny bit which was no problem for me, but make sure your case can fit those extra few mm on the DH15.

Here’s my build to compare. It’s been incredible so far! I posted a small review about it if you want to compare more.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | Purchased For $285.00
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-D15 CHROMAX.BLACK 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler | Purchased For $100.00
Motherboard | Asus PRIME Z390-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | Purchased For $178.00
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | Purchased For $76.99
Storage | XPG GAMMIX S10 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | Purchased For $88.99
Storage | Addlink S70 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | Purchased For $110.00
Video Card | NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card | Purchased For $411.82
Case | Fractal Design Meshify S2 ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $152.00
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $105.00
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan | Purchased For $14.95
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan | Purchased For $14.95
Monitor | LG 27UK650-W 27.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor | $0.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1537.70
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-12 00:23 EST-0500 |

These are the links, if you need.

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_c_D-53DbWEM76QF

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B00650P2ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_c_5853Db736KCN8

Also really good are these Noctua's.

Be quiet fans:

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BL070-SILENTWINGS-2200RPM-73-33CFM/dp/B01JMELYJA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=H6MNLC0I2N8B&keywords=be+quiet+120mm+fan&qid=1554981202&s=gateway&sprefix=be+quiet+&sr=8-3

Noctua fans:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=H9W1MPNBOO8V&keywords=noctua+120mm+fan&qid=1554981228&s=gateway&sprefix=noctua+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Yeah I have a garbage rosewill fan that is a place holder till I get something better. I have been looking into it recently over a couple weeks and decided I will get a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9u4TCbP2YTH3W

Are there any fans comparable in performance and price to the Noctua NF-P12 redux that are black?

i found this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG2PGY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A cheap suggestion to lower the sound is by switching to Noctua fans. They are well known for being very quiet. I picked these fans up and they are considerably quieter than what I got with my case.

For some BIOS, you can setup the fan speed based on the the temperatures. I did that as well.

Fans:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG2PGY6

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KF7MVI2

Case:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN199YJ/ref=emc_b_5_t

Also, by the looks of the heatpipes it would be a Hyper T4, not a Hyper 212 EVO.

Link: Cooler Master Hyper T4 CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes RR-T4-18PK-R1, INTEL/AMD with AM4 Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9wgbAbW84CXS4

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397348112&sr=8-3&keywords=evo+212+amd

There's this. It requires no reseating. It will use the same stand offs or backplates as your classic one.

Well the tx3 does not work however the tx4 is almost the exact same price and it's pretty much the same thing

Cooler Master Hyper T4 CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes RR-T4-18PK-R1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_JpMoxbCHC4X4Y

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463106392&sr=1-2&keywords=cooler+master+hyper+tx3

are these Cooler Master hyper tx3 good enough for the i3 processor?

Some coolers can get quite large, make sure you have enough space in your case. Some of them also require access to the backside of the motherboard to install.

I recently did a build for my friend, using [this cooler](http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4). It was for the 1150 socket, but should be similar to the AM3. The Hyper 212 EVO is an even more popular choice (performance vs money), but my friends case wouldn't fit that cooler, so I chose the T4 instead.

Some coolers orient more on cooling, and are a bit louder, while some are near silent but don't cool as good. It all depends what you want.

Here is the one im thinking of getting. https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469750316&sr=8-1&keywords=lga1150+cooler

This one https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1

Hi everyone,

I really need some advice on what CPU cooler I should replace mine. My motherboard is a low-cost Gigabyte 970A-DS3P (AM3+ chipset), with an AMD FX-8320 CPU. It's a bit of an old build, but it's still holding up well, so I want to add more RAM to it. However, the current cooler I'm using (Cooler Master Hyper T4) is way too big, covering two of my RAM slots (thankfully, this motherboard's slots Dual Channel pairings are side by side, so I still have that going for the time being). The stock cooler that came with the CPU is bust, that's why I changed it to this one, which I bought off Amazon without realising its sheer size. I currently have 8GB RAM and want to add maybe 8GB more to give this build a bit more life.

Any suggestions would be really appreciated!

Well that makes sense. Something like this will get the job done for not too much money:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4

No it also doesn't come with a cooler.

When I bought mine I also got this cooler I idle about 27°c at load max about 65-68°c. The cooler will come with a small thermal paste packet, but I personally prefer to use Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste.

Doesn't look compatible - think it just has to do with where the screws go, they need to line up with the correct slots on the CPU/motherboard. This might be a good option, doesn't need any kind of adapter, but be sure to check with someone who knows more about Ryzen chips than me if it would keep things cool enough - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/?tag=pcpapi-20

It's currently on sale at $18.50, my guess is if it does not the 6 pipe one which is currently on sale at $39 should, but again you would want to double check that with someone who knows more about Ryzen.

The Cooler Master Hyper T4 supports AM4 out of the box and is only about $20. There are also several other Cooler Master coolers with AM4 support out of the box.

hey man, i got a hyper t4 should i oc to 4.0ghz?

it’s this cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_tQuOBbFCN9E5T

Suggest you open your case and dust out your fan. Is it a pre-built computer? Like you purchased it at a tech store everything just plug and go?

80 c is okay but if you open your case get some compressed air and dust it out. After you dust it out; check to see if it's just some stock fan [should look like this : https://d284x0ytlho6sy.cloudfront.net/images/400/AB54875.jpg ] It's most likely a stock fan if it's pre-built. It means your computer is heating up, but isn't getting rid of the heat so your fans spin at max speed which is generally pretty loud.

You can't upgrade your CPU, at least I don't think so. I'm looking up i5-4430 and I can't find the release date. I see some people post from 2013, if it's from then you might have a hard time finding CPU.



If you know how to build a PC or would like to learn I can post a budget PC around 500/600 that you can build.

Other suggestions is buying an aftermarket cooler, like this : https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496032529&sr=8-1&keywords=lga1150+cooler

Note that you'll need a thermal paste cleaner set like https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-ArctiClean/dp/B002DILLMS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496032562&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+paste+kit
Some people use alcohol, I like this because it really removes the gunk. Especially if it's been years. You'll need that + Coffee filter cause it has no lent to clean it off. I think Coffee filters are cheapest and easiest IMO.

Edit: I should add you need the thermal kit cause if you take off your fan and etc you'll need to clean the paste off the CPU and the fan. I should ass you can just try cleaning the thermal paste and applying the new one from the kit and maybe it'll drop your temps :0

Again if that route is complicated or you prefer to just have a new PC that'll do you some decent time in gaming here's the list of parts I'd recommend : https://pcpartpicker.com/user/PraY8D/saved/RQFD3C

I'd watch a youtube video and build it. This way you'll know 100% what parts. If you like to spend a little more around 550+ you can get a K chipset which has boost (runs faster when needed) also a after market fan = your machine won't be loud if the temps get high.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4 (was looking for 212 but this one has prime)

I needed that video haha

So if I get this, its all I need for the CPU? Sorry lol I'm just a bit paranoid about getting incompatible parts. I see from the video it looks like it has a heatsink, I know my AMD one has a way bigger heatsink.

Thanks, can I get away with this $15 after rebate Hyper T4?
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502058899&sr=1-1&keywords=hyper%2B212%2Bevo&th=1

Oh, and can I get away with the thermal paste that comes with it? I'm to cheap for the liquid metal stuff.

I have http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4 and an i7-6700K (not overclocking till I go watercooled). It keeps my system nice and cool, super quiet when idle, not that loud when gaming!

I don't have anything "better" as much as... probably more cost effective.

The CoolerMaster Hyper T4 is the "low-cost budget" choice at $30 USD / $40 AUD. Its inferior but cheaper.

At ~130W, the Hyper T4 is +31C over Ambient, while the NH-D15 is +18C over Ambient. Since CPUs don't throttle till like 80C.

So how hot is your area? Like 30C? 35C? Even at 35C ambient, you can safely go +55C before throttling, and CPUs function to 100C.

Note that the 8700k is a 95W CPU. You'll only draw 130W if you overclock. Hyper T4 is a very "budget" cooler too. I'm sorta choosing it as "the other side" of the spectrum.

That's why I'm wondering if you're planning to overclock. 95W is pretty easy to cool, you don't need to buy a $100+ cooler to cool off 95W stock speeds. Only if you overclock to 130W or higher power usage will you need a better cooler than a typical budget-cooler.

-------------------

It really depends on how much money you're willing to spend too. The NH-D15 is one of the best air coolers. I just wanna make sure you're willing to pay for it. You pretty much can get any cooler between $40 AUD to $130 AUD, with noise / cooling performance scaling between those extremes.

Would something like this work?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BSKY1M4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462664024&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=lga+2011+cooler&dpPl=1&dpID=51LVfRhjj6L&ref=plSrch

I'm getting a cooler master hyper t4 to replace my stock cooler. Should I get aftermarket thermal paste (arctic silver, ic-diamond, etc) for it or use the basic paste that comes with the cooler?



In other words,
How big of a difference will it make? 1-2 degrees? 3-5 degrees?

right here. make sure it fits in your case, it's big.

How is this motherboard? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6JfmP6/asrock-motherboard-z170mextreme4

Also, quick question on my current build I have this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BSKY1M4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 From my current build would this work on my new build?

Here's Noctua's 120 mm and 140 mm case fans for reference. They're a bit pricier than standard fans, but they do push some air and personally I like the brown/tan coloring.

I had a Corsair H60 AIO / closed loop water cooler before, but from everything I can tell good air cooling will beat cheap liquid cooling solutions. When my liquid cooler was at 3+ years - and not wanting to push it past its life span and risk any catastrophic failures like I've seen people post on reddit - I decided to switch back to air cooling using all Noctua fans. Couldn't be happier with them.

Going with the SFX internal PSU mount?

Here's the slim Noctua fans I recommend for the top, will need the "Top Mount Bracket" to mount two of these.

https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nf-a12x15-pwm-case-fan/p/1YF-000T-00091

On the rear get one of the NF-A9:

https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nf-a9-pwm-case-fan/p/N82E16835608070

Then for intake I would get two of the 140mm A14 fans

https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-Premium-Cooling/dp/B00CP6QLY6

Can of course sub these for any brand, I think be quiet! fans are the next best option.

[$23.68 Amazon Prime], $22 with free shipping non-Prime

[Newegg...] let's don't talk about Newegg's prices.

I'm more interested in [these], which are $19 a piece, since I don't really care about the PWM feature.

So this would be the most quiet one https://www.amazon.de/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464928575&sr=8-1&keywords=140mm+noctua+nf-a14+pwm

What do you think of two Noctua NF-A14's for a push pull on this radiator?

Think I'm gonna end up going with three of these: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-Premium-Cooling/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=NF-A14+PWM&qid=1563952412&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Here's a link to the fans I use on my case. I have two of these. One exhausts out the top, the other out the back.

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Technology-NF-A14-PWM/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524015625&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+140+pwm

✓ I'd figure turning up the other case fans would improve temps a little (not enough to go into intensive games of course, but to just drop a few degrees.) I'm using an AS Rock mobo and the software is kinda clunky- was hoping there'd be something with profile settings. If anything, I might just go to BIOS if it becomes a problem.

I'm probably gonna spring for these Noctuas. I wanted to go for the be quiet! fans (to match my case and the fans I already have), but I can't afford the $10 difference for aesthetic :'3. Thanks for the reply~!

If the price doesn't bother you, just get a pair of these. Noctua is in fact the best.

When i did it my goal was low noise. I think i went with the 1500rpm ones. My server rack is quieter than my gaming computer (which is also really quiet).
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-Premium-Cooling/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=noctua+140mm&qid=1550558188&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Also if you're using supermicro PSUs grab the sq version on eBay. Pretty cheap and dead quiet. Supermicro 1.2kw sq. Verify it fits the Pdu on your case. If it doesn't, you can dremel them to fit. Probably not the best thing to tell someone else to do, but I've done it on 4 PSUs so far, both running well for 2 years now.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PWS-1K28P-SQ-SUPERMICRO-1280W-1U-REDUNDANT-POWER-SUPPLY/182499077704?epid=857614876&hash=item2a7dcaee48:g:4UEAAOSwme1bqn6x:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!28314!US!-1&redirect=mobile

More info on the dremel, but again most people will tell you not to do it for your safety.
https://forums.servethehome.com/index.php?threads/supermicro-sq-power-supply-1280w-59.7726/

I believe the 900 watt version requires no modification, but costs more

Yep they are! Well you've got a solid full tower case so I'd go:
Top: 2x 200mm.
Front: 1x 200mm.
Bottom: 2x 140mm .
Rear: 1x 140mm.
Side: 1x 200mm (leave the included one in here).

Noctua fans are known to be the best out there but don't come in 200mm. so grab 3x 140mm of either:

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Technology-NF-A14-PWM/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457741282&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+fan+140mm

http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457741282&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+fan+140mm

And grab 3x 200mm: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MegaFlow-200-Computer/dp/B008G3OLRQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1457741261&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=200mm+fan&psc=1

Which of these two are quietest?

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Technology-NF-A14-PWM/dp/B00CP6QLY6

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=1YF-001D-00006

I use a few of these Noctua fans, super quiet and great airflow. Not purple or black though.

For my CPU, I've had this Cooler Master for a long time. Affordable, quiet, and works great.

I'd possibly be interested in both NF-A14 PWM. Is price negotiable? They can be purchased on Amazon for $44. Link

But do you need to configure them to do that (change their speed depending on the temps) or do they have a "standard profile" in which automatically reduce speeds with lower loads and increase with higher loads?

For example, this Noctua goes from 300 to 1500rpm but it does that by itself or do I need to set it up on the BIOS? In the description says "automatic speed control" but I don't really know how it works.

would this work? i dont know which one to get from Noctua

I have an H115i and it's radiator is 280mm not 240mm. You need 140mm fans like these are what I have.

Thanks for the feedback.

I am planning on switching the front stock 120mm fan to the top rear slot and buying 2x 140mm fans for the front.

How see-through is the front of the Meshify C? I was debating buying the brown Noctua fan here since it seems to have the best reviews, but I don't want to see it through the front of the case.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CP6QLY6/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Is this fan the same as the chromax.black.swap one, but just brown instead of black?

Alright, so I need help with my terrible airflow.

As you can see in my setup, the metal tips of the CPU cooler poke out. I have a micro motherboard and case, meaning no luxury of closing my case with a full sized CPU cooler. So, I don't know what fan to purchase here. Or if I should even be concerned about closing my case.

For 4 years I've been able to run games (BF1, Witcher 2, etc) with zero heat problems using the exact setup as above, minus the lack of fan on the bottom. But in the past 6 months my computer has been crashing due to cpu overheating. So, I guess its age is catching up, dunno.

Now, I'm replacing the fan here with a Noctua-A14.
Ill also be buying Silver 5 thermal paste and redoing the connection.

Any advice, help please.

The reason to swap the fans is more for noise, not performance.

If you don't care about aesthetics (or if Noctua's color scheme doesn't bother you) get these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CP6QLY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or seek out an alternative with similar esteem. Noctua is about as good as it gets, but there are at least a couple other brands out there that give them a run for their money.

I have these on a Corsair h115i and they work like a charm, though that's hardly surprising.

What about this one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C9EYVGY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1

And two of these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CP6QLY6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1

Anyone still here? Looking to add a case fan to my fractal define mini. I want to add it to the top to suck in air, and I have the choice of either 120mm or 140mm. Looking at two noctua fans, the s12a pwm or the a14 pwm. Which should I go with?

Edit: Right now I only have the stock fans that came with my case, I want to add at least one more right now for some positive air pressure.

Thanks once again.

I just thought my case only supported 120, i thought i read that somewhere.. Clearly i was wrong.
I'm a little confused about why the person in the post has the top fan as an intake. Would it be ok to just leave it as exhaust?

I am going to go ahead and purchase 2 of these 140mm fans for front intake.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00CP6QLY6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1

The board is ASUS Z170A and the fans are

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484214530&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair+fans

For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484214530&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair+fans

and make it:

https://amzn.com/B00F6S0XJO

BEEP BOP

Plz send any recommendations via PM

Would you suggest these then? I already have some of the non LED ones but these are cheaper, are these still as good?

I have a few things which I will be posting tomorrow. I have prices in mind, just want to get a rough idea of the prices and how much it would cost to ship.

• Logitech G430 Headset. Bought from Amazon. Used for 7-8 months. Have original box.
  
  
• Corsair Spec 02 Case. Bought Open Box from Microcenter for $45. Comes with 2 fans (1 No LED Black; 1 Red LED). Will include additional front dust filters and 2 Corsair Red LED fans bought new from Amazon. Have original box and packaging.
  
  
• Seagate 500 GB 5400 rpm Thin Laptop Hard Drive. This came with a laptop I bought 2 days ago and was replaced with an SSD. So it's brand new.
  
  
• SteelSeries Apex Raw gaming wired keyboard. Bought refurbished from newegg 3 months ago.
  Have the original box it came in.
  
  
• Acer G226HQL 21.5-Inch Screen LED Monitor. Bought new on Amazon. Used for 7 months. Have original box and packaging.
  
  Thank you.

Corsair AF120 LED

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462314582&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+led+fan

https://www.amazon.it/Corsair-AF120-LED-ventola-elevato-illuminazione/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464349322&sr=8-1&keywords=case+fan+corsair ...i use this for the CPU also!

[this] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483290626&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+120mm+fan)is a good one right? I was looking to get this one a little later after i get the pc.

oh okay, i thought i needed more rpm guess not.

just ordered a 2 pack of these then:
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=pcgamingbuilds02-20&s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478622755&sr=1-1&keywords=Corsair+Air+Series+AF120&linkCode=sl1&linkId=0fd2ddd6fdce63bf166381f1f3278b66

should suffice:)

thanks!

The fans I have are three pin only (Corsair AF120) Would that mean they would be at a constant speed and not alter with more strain and higher temps?

Would I need more than the 1 fan that comes with the Corsair 100R? I'm building my first PC either Friday or Saturday and I completely forgot about fans. If I need more what would be a somewhat cheap fan/fans I could get? I was looking at these but I have no idea about fans in general. If it's important here's my build. (also if the fans I linked either won't work or aren't good I'd prefer if the fans would either be not LED or red if possible).

Also, if I need more fans what would be the best setup for them? I've heard 1 in the front and 1 in the back is pretty good, but I know there's also spots for them on the top too, so I'm not entirely sure. Thanks!

I have the Corsair AF120 quiet edition for my build, and they are almost silent most of the time, except when playing demanding games. I have the non-led version, but they do come in a red version.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S0XJO/?tag=pcpapi-20 would this work with the two stock fans that come with the case? Can the two stock fans act as the rear exhaust and top exhaust?

I bought the case few weeks ago.

I haven't bought the fans yet because i'm grabbing new gpu releases and a new monitor.

The fans I was planning to get are Link x6

Which fans did you wanna replace? If they are 120mm -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=twister_B00F93ZIEG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

140 -- https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-CO-9050047-WW/dp/B01G5I6QH6/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481683128&sr=1-3&keywords=140+mm+case+fan+led+red

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S0XJO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_CZANzbA2B4C7Z

would this work, I could use another case fan too and this comes with two for pretty cheap.

Is that fan better than https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S0XJO/?tag=pcpapi-20&th=1 this pack of two? Should I just get that pack or should I get two of the Noctua ones? Oh and how is that fan compared to this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00650P2ZC/?tag=pcpapi-20

Good point! Still, this particular regulator can output 3A - which should be more than sufficient, unless we're talking about a table fan. Take this rather big fan for instance. It pulls 400mA. I'm guessing that OP has a fan with less of a pull than that. So, with this fan, you have an overhead of 2.5A.

I'm guessing that the powersupply OP has is a battery pack. If that's the case, then the bottleneck when it comes to current is the regulator.

[SOLVED] I need a fan splitter that allows two of my fans to be RPM controlled by the MOBO I am currently using this one but only lets the fans run at 100%, and not be RPM controlled. Any suggestions (preferably black sleeved, but I'll take anything)


EDIT: I'm using the built-in "ASUS Fan Xpert" to control the 3pin fans.

EDIT2: Thanks Neverlife for the suggestion. It seems the BIOS was affecting the fans. After running the fan utility in UEFI all works well and dandy.

I have the same case. I moved the fans that came with it to the front of the case for intake and used these for exhaust:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6S0XJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whilst there is a difference between an i7 and i5, I have a i5 4690k paired with 16gb ram and an ssd, and use Photoshop and after effects and the performance on them is fantastic.

If you'll be doing 4k editing you may want an i7 but the i5 4460 is a great high performance CPU.

You may want to get http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00F6S0XJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452699051&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Af120+led&dpPl=1&dpID=51VHmYAnSkL&ref=plSrch some of these case fans too.

Hmm ok I think im gonna go with the i5 + asrock killer when microcenter restocks on i5s as well as the evga 500b 500w. Do you think I should get LED light strips http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812170026 or LED fans http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6S0XJO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER to go with my build/windowed case to give off a more red vibe?

Thanks for the tip. If it comes down to having to buy from a store I will probably go with these fans from Amazon.

I bought a couple of these when I first built my PC and they seem to move good air. They are a little on the noisy side at 100% since I have them plugged into a fan controller. I plan to plug my next fans into the motherboard and control their speed by CPU temp so they should be significantly quieter I think.

AF120 in pull, as in pulling air into the case.

This is the fans i'm getting
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AxmHAbKGVRQJP

I am getting two of each of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE?ie=UTF8&tag=pcpapi-20
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF140-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S0XK8?ie=UTF8&tag=pcpapi-20

I'm looking to add some case fans to my computer.

Here's the case I have

Here's the motherboard I have

The only fans I have are the two that come with the case, the front, bottom and top back. The top two are horizontal and either 120mm or 140mm, the bottom one is horizontal and 120mm, and the front one is vertical and 120mm.

As far as price, I'm fine with spending a bit of money, but I'd prefer something that isn't too pricey. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1463272052&sr=8-5&keywords=corsair+fan) is what I was thinking of getting, but I saw that they were sleeve-bearing, and I've been told to avoid them. Any suggestions?

Unless you're comfortable about overclocking, don't bother with DDR4 3400. It's a huge pain to configure DDR4 to run at the high Mhz that it advertises itself as.

You should try to find a 4x8GB 2400Mhz kit in the $100 range to get quad channel goodness instead.

Here is a 4x8GB 2400Mhz DDR4 kit for around $115 after the 15% off coupon.

Your motherboard only has 4 memory stick slots, so I recommend getting a large amount of ram now - 32GB in one quad channel kit. (If you use all 4 slots for 16 GB now, you'll have to buy all new sticks to have more ram in the future. If you get just two sticks now, getting two more in the future might have compatibility issues with quad channel support.)

You should follow the other people's advice and get a smaller SSD and a 1TB HDD. WD Black is a good choiice. This will save you money and make a better PC.

The case you have is great, but I recommend picking up a couple more fans to help with cooling. This is a fine budget choice. They have different color LED's too.

Posted this question yesterday, but hope I've got a better chance here.

At the moment my only case fan is a 200mm intake fan. I want to add two case fans(one exhaust, one to cool the VRM) to get temps and noise down.

I've been looking at the following fan packs, all from Corsair:

• Air SP120
  
• Air AF120
  
• ML 120
  
  Which of these would be best for my intended use, or is there a better option with two fans for under €30?
  
  Thanks!

wahpow: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491692597&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+led+fans+white

What case do you have? Here a good deal: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1458224802&sr=8-10&keywords=120mm+fan

I'm set for the Cryorig M9i cooler, but as for the case fan, should I keep my preinstalled? It doesn't look to be of good quality, and if I should replace it, I found a nice pair of Corsair fans (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=twister_B00F93ZIEG?_encoding=UTF8&th=1). Not sure if these are of any better quality than the preinstalled, but if it isn't, I'll stick with the Noctua P12 redux.

There are generally two kinds of fans:

• Airflow fans - quieter, move a lot of air, but aren't so good when there is resistance to airflow (e.g. radiator).
  
  
• Static pressure fans - a little noisier, but much better when you are trying to push air through small holes.
  
  Case fans tend to be more on the Airflow side.
  
  As an example, there is a sale on amazon.ca right now for some air flow fans (one without LEDs! Sorry about the other two):
  
  
• Corsair 140 mm
  
  
• Corsair 140 mm (White LED)
  
  
• Corsair Twin-pack of 120 mm (White LED)
  

Thank you VERY much! If I could ask you just one more question, would I be able to install one of these on the EVO (replacing the stock fan) and another (same size) on the rear exhaust, once again replacing the stock fan.

Thanks again for your help!

here

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=Corsair%2BAir%2BSeries%2BAF120%2BLED%2BQuiet%2BEdition&ie=UTF8&sr=8-1&linkCode=gs2&linkId=26953212e48f07b21cff131576b07bf3&tag=ckab00-20&th=1


These are highly reccommended. Looking for a pair of case fans for sub $40 CAD for the build - input?

Por que no los dos?

Seriously though, any of the options you listed are fine: one more exhaust, one more intake, do nothing. They are all valid.

For the typical single CPU, single GPU PC, having one intake and one exhaust fan helps a lot.

Beyond that, there started to be diminishing returns.

If your temps are fine, then don't stress about it too much.

How's this looking? (Final edits)

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7PwsGG

I am also looking at this pack of fans.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-High-Airflow/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pc%2Bcase%2Bfan&qid=1554276770&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

Glad I helped.

Your temperatures seem to be completely safe. 71 degrees is absolutely fine for your components, and you shouldn't worry about it. You should only be concerned if temperatures start exceeding 75-80 degrees.

As /u/Dyzleksi suggested, you could move the PC out of the furniture if you have room. This most likely will make the PC slightly cooler, and therefore a little quieter. If you want to make a huge difference to noise and heat, there are many options for cheap but quality fans:

You should start with a CPU cooler like this. This is one of the most popular ones on the market, I have one myself and it is silent.

Any aftermarket case fans will typically do the job much more effectively and quietly. Noctua is a good choice, as is Corsair. If you aren't willing to spend that much, cheaper options will also be a large improvement.

Bear in mind that case fans greatly affect overall performance. How many case fans do you currently have? (These are the fans attached to the case itself, not to components.) Most cheaper cases come with only 1 fan on the front (intake). You should install at least 1 more on the rear or top of the case as exhaust, for a total of 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan.

Grounding should not affect the temperatures or cooling at all. It is a precaution you can take while handling the components to avoid damaging them with static electricity. Many people (myself included) do not bother with grounding and get on just fine. In future, though, you should tap a metal object such as the side panel of the PC before touching any hardware.

If you have any more questions, I'm always here to help.

Corsair Air Series AF120

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I am linking the one sold and shipped by Amazon, not the third party seller. link to all vendors

Can anyone recommended some good chassis fans? I recently just ordered 4 Corsair af120 for $50 from amazon, not sure if this is worth it or not.

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> What's a good $1000 Laptop for gaming?
> I mainly play FPS Games (CSGO, Overwatch)


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/5gfjvq/daily_simple_questions_thread_dec_04_2016/dat5sye

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> Are the EVGA thermal pads added to the new ACX 3.0 cards? I am trying to recommend some one getting EVGA GTX 1080 SC/FTW cards, but until it is fixed, I will try looking into something else.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/5gfjvq/daily_simple_questions_thread_dec_04_2016/dasose3

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> I assembled a new rig today, with an ASUS ROG Maximus Hero VIII. It was working fine, fans spun up, installed Windows. However, after powering down and attempting to turn it on again, it did not work properly. The LEDs lit up, and the fans tried to spin up for a moment, but it immediately gave up.
>
> But... the lights for the onboard power/reset buttons and the ROG logo remain lit up when the power switch is in the "on" position. I don't think it's shorting out... Just not sure what's going on. No video signal. Any opinions?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/5gfjvq/daily_simple_questions_thread_dec_04_2016/dasg71f

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> What are some good wireless headsets for under $200?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/5gfjvq/daily_simple_questions_thread_dec_04_2016/dasem92

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> Does anyone have any pictures of a red/black case with white fans like these I'm looking to illuminate my case but don't want it with all red (with the red corsair fans), the mobo is red/black and it is the red/black s340 case. Thinking it would be better to get them fans rather than an white led strip so I can kill two birds with one stone by adding the fans to the empty slots as well.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/5gfjvq/daily_simple_questions_thread_dec_04_2016/dascih5

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> so I need a new headset. Ive been using steelseries siberia v2. Id like a new one that feels like the siberia v2. I tried the v3 but it felt like i was wearing hearing protection. I could hear the air blowing on my nosehairs. So i want something that doesnt just hang loose on the ears but still isnt so "closed" if thats the word. one like the siberia v2.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/5gfjvq/daily_simple_questions_thread_dec_04_2016/dasc7nq

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> Whenever I start recording Overwatch with Shadowplay and press Enter, the screen switches from fullscreen to windowed. Enter doesn't register, and I can't fix the problem without restarting the game because I am locked in a chat box. It also kills my Esc key for the total period I am recording.
>
> This does not happen when I am not using Shadowplay. I have looked at the keyboard shortcuts and none of them use Enter, but some of them do use Alt.
>
> When I tried this while in the menu, I bound a key to Enter while SP was up and it registered as Alt + Enter.
>
> So, I believe that the Alt key is virtually pressed while SP is running. Is there a way to stop this? I have a CMS QuickFire Rapid.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/5gfjvq/daily_simple_questions_thread_dec_04_2016/das8up2

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> Is there a sub where I can trade an Origin game for a Steam game? /r/GameSwap doesn't accept codes and I can't trade on /r/SGS.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/5gfjvq/daily_simple_questions_thread_dec_04_2016/dary7w3

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> So I just did a clean install of Windows last night. I started up Titanfall 2, and while it's preseved my multiplayer progress, of course, I seem to have lost my singleplayer save. Is it gone? How can I retrieve it from the Origin cloud?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/5gfjvq/daily_simple_questions_thread_dec_04_2016/darxwb8

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Does anyone have any pictures of a red/black case with white fans like these I'm looking to illuminate my case but don't want it with all red (with the red corsair fans), the mobo is red/black and it is the red/black s340 case. Thinking it would be better to get them fans rather than an white led strip so I can kill two birds with one stone by adding the fans to the empty slots as well.

Looks nice.

I recently built in that Cooler Master Elite 110 case and it's nice and small. The 120mm case fan it came with is annoyingly loud though. I replaced it with this 140mm fan which has been much quieter.

I did hear that the fans on the corsair get quite loud and I'm thinking about replacing them with these. I haven't decided on the overall fan setup yet though as it's definitely not something I know lot about.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1GJ95XKEF6LLS&coliid=I3496LX5IIXD0L


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1GJ95XKEF6LLS&coliid=I1Z3TCK9VQCD0K

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-P14s-redux-140mm-4-pin/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404610411&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+redux ??

they are out

I like my redux fans they are all gray.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G

Recommend me some cheapish (edit: and quiet!) 140mm case fans, please.

Case is a Corsair 300R, I've got a Cooler Master 120mm in the side panel that's annoyingly whiny. I want to replace at least that one, and maybe the front two while I'm at it. I'm looking at the Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 but I'm not really excited about coughing up ~$50 for all three.

PS: Do those rubber rivets work well, and if so are there any that sit relatively flush on the outside?

What about these two?
https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1536827156&sr=1-4&keywords=Noctua+fan+140mm

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Cooling-NF-A14-ULN/dp/B00AA89BN4/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1536827156&sr=1-5&keywords=Noctua+fan+140mm

no bumps wont knock any tubes loose. they are legit held in no issue. the only way you are popping a tube is if you yank on it pretty hard.

whatever case fans you get, make sure it has good mmh2o stats. that is what will help penetrate through grills and dust filters to ensure air actually gets in the case. knew a dude who spent money on fans that had led, but the mmh2o stats were sub 1.0mmh2o and even at higher rpm, put your hand behind it inside the case and you barely felt anything. this is one of the biggest issue with a lot of builds these days. they go "oh this fan is a air flow fan, well i need good airflow derp" and the fans have crap pressure.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494259307&sr=8-1&keywords=nf-p14s

For example, this fan (as apposed to the brown color original) is 1.91mmh2o and 78.69cfm. Pretty decent fans considering price and will be relatively quiet.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494259393&sr=1-2&keywords=nf-a14+ippc

This bad bish, 10.5mmh2o (yeah, holy cow right?) and 158.50CFM. these fans can get airplane loud, but flow amazing. I literally use this fan, 2 as intake, 1 as exhaust, and 2 on radiator in pull configuration pulling air out of the case via the top. All fans run about 1500-1800rpm and temps of the 1800x never go over 40c gaming and 50c prime95 stress test.

Fans of 1.5mmh2o or better for case. radiator fans should have AT LEAST 3.5mmh2o (most aio's come with fans that do just that, so no issue there). CFM isn't really a big deal, as long as the penetration (mmh2o) is there you'll be fine.

The Noctua fans also are all grey, which is solid: http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=pd_sim_147_11?ie=UTF8&dpID=51nTnaDXC%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR124%2C160_&refRID=1K3K88857QJ3NDJ01064



Or there is a black too: http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialPPC-3000-140x140x25mm-3000rpm/dp/B00KESS5L4

understand gets mentioned alot but seems above 20 bucks are you talking about these?

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1520887311&sr=8-31&keywords=noctua+nf

lol sorry didn't realize i didnt post the link

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1481175923&sr=8-7&keywords=Noctua

Here, they're good in any config really lol.

Is that better than this? https://www.amazon.ca/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-Redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1480741346&sr=8-7&keywords=noctua

[here you go](Noctua SSO Bearing Fan Retail Cooling NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0R5mybB4SG832)

Got a refurb of this from newegg a while back. i used to "idle" (20% cpu usage) at 50C. after installing this i dropped to 42ish. after delidding i went down to 35C, a fresh install of windows 10 to cleaar out driver issues i had (high cpu usage) im now down to 25C.

im using these nocturas instead of the fans that came with and i love it. now my max load 100% for an hour hits 49C on my 6700k

I have the enthoo atx case and bought these for the case fans:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KF7O58G/

A bit quieter than the ones it came with (no whine at all), the ones it came with had this slight whine at anything above 900rpm or so.

Not too bad, but louder for sure under full load. I recently switched out some fans for Noctuas and Corsair SP120 Quiet Editions. Made a noticeable difference in noise, and temps seem similar. Overheating isn't an issue for me, nothing is OC'd right now.

http://amzn.to/2frje1i on the rad.
http://amzn.to/2eCjBEQ on intake and exhaust.

Those are all PWM, so I have two of the Noctuas on the graphics card, so they only turn on when the GPU is under load - off during normal use. The radiator fans are hooked up to CPU 4 pin, so they also adjust to the load.

So under normal load (browsing the internet or whatever) the case is nearly silent.

Assuming you just want the best all-in-one cooler, get a Corsair H115i and replace the stock fans with these.

If you want to get fancy, you can check out custom loops, phase change, or liquid nitrogen.

The industrial ones are really nice. Less fugly too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialppc-3000-PWM-Case-Black-Brown/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511438892&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+industrial

I have 4 120mm Noctua fans and 3 140mm Noctua fans available

just to show you that it is the fan, not the pump, https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3EJZBFZH0XGT8MTAQVEN

You can buy Noctua Fans that aren't brown ...

My understanding of the H500(i) is that air should be entering the case via the front (if even just passively) and exiting to the rear and top.

If you want to maintain negative pressure, just make sure your intake fans are pushing in less air than your exhaust fans are evacuating. It might be hard to do given that a 280mm radiator is going to have 2x140mm fans while the H500 has 2x120mm for exhaust (potentially 1x120mm and 1x140mm though), but it would be fairly simple to do by modulating intake fans to run at a lower RPM than your exhaust fans (though the 120mm fans will have to put in more work).

Alternatively, just keep the stock 120mm in the rear and slap on something in the top of the case with big boi airflow like Noctua's nutty 140mm 3000 rpm-capable case fan to make sure that more air is evacuated than air that is taken in.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2Lf3Cb1K39E90

Ah k, these fans I ordered for the front 280mm rad. I can also install one In bottom of case, think it’s time to start looking at a larger case.

Actually thinking to swap default corsair fans for this one... dunno if it will be okay for 115i pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_swn8Cb2SNTHAN

They sell both. The 24V version has "24V" in the product code. The 12V version doesn't have "12V" in the product code however, which is confusing (although it does clearly say its a 12V fan on the box).

This is the 12V version of the 3000: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialPPC-3000PWM-Cooler-components/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491226791&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+nf-a14+industrial

This is the 24V version: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-140-mm-Industrial-ppc-24-V-3000-IP67/dp/B0187IB5YG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491226791&sr=8-4&keywords=noctua+nf-a14+industrial

I like your idea of putting a fan as close as possible to the GPU's and I have an idea for it after opening my case and looking it over.

Idea There is another 140mm fan that exhausts up behind the CPU out the back of the case. I measured and a 140mm fan will fit here which should increase the air flow going onto the cards.

Fan I'm looking at is this

A good balance between price/performance/noise is the SP120/140 Performance edition. I believe it's rated at 3.1 h2o/mm in an accurate manner.
If you want pure performance, buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/
It's somewhat more expensive, but is much louder and has rating of over 7 h2o/mm (which I also believe should be accurate), which is more than any other brand I know of.

I got these noctua fans for my Kraken x61, and oh god they're so good. I did pay ~50, but the temperatures for my 1700x dropped ~5 degrees, and I run them at ~700 rpm, where it's barely audible at all. 0 regrets, but it definitely is expensive.

I've got a Corsair Carbide Air 540 case (very big, 3 stock 140mm fans) with an AMD FX 6350 (AM3+, 125w, stock cooler) that is way too loud to use while trying to watch a movie on my TV. Any suggestions for quiet replacement fans and heatsink? I'd prefer not to spend a ton of money because I'll be upgrading the entire thing in a few years. Been looking at these fans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1H9NMCPZH97BO but I'm not sure I want to spend that much on fans. I have no idea where to start with CPU cooler. Not opposed to going with liquid cooling as long as it's not expensive or a huge hassle to install.

i bought three of these case fans for my new build. LMAO jesus they are loud as fuck. I bought them because I love noctua and this color scheme. Any suggestion on how I should configure these? My computer sounds like a fucking weed-eater, but godamn are they strong and my PC is cool as hell.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

what do u think of this case fan?

There is a black version of the noctua fan, but with tolerable brown corners. I am getting those and painting the corners silver.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KFCRF1A/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M51442T0QG6A0G2R1CWK

this looks like it'll work but it's so expensive

No need for 5 controllers. Here, take a look at some of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Sentry-5-4-Inch-Controller-Cooling-AC-SEN-3-B1/dp/B00KJGYLNM/

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0156YBCKG/

https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY

Basically all you need is a “PWM Fan Controller Hub”. You connect all the fans to the hub, and the hub (depending on which style/type you get), can either be controlled manually via knobs or interface (usually mounted in a 5.25 bay), or connected to the mobo’s CPU fan header, and can be controlled through specific software. The NZXT hub allows control via software like this.

You need the fourth pin to do PWM and subsequently fan speed. Phanteks has a similar product that works with 3 pin fans. This converts the PWM signal on the 4 pin to a voltage modulated signal.

http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

Hey, sorry to bother you again. Last question I promise. Your review mentions how important it is to run the fans in PWM mode. Do you know if the H440 is PWM on all the headers? Or is it voltage control? It's missing 1 pin for every fan other than the 1st one (white connector): https://i.imgur.com/iMCNWBX.jpg


If you think that it isn't, this product should be good right? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999309&cm_re=pwm_fan_hub-_-11-999-309-_-Product

Or https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473787919&sr=8-2&keywords=pwm+fan+hub ?


I'm open to suggestions as well but I'm in Canada so my choices are limited.
Thanks

well there are fanhubs like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

these are usually powered by a molex or sata connector and then one 4pin connector that goes to the cpu_fan connector on your motherboard to set the speed for the 3pin fans connected to the fanhub.

im using the one i just linked (powered by a sata connector), RPM changes based on cpu temperature/load. works great :)

In that case a fan hub is probably your best option. The first one I could find that suits your needs is this one: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

It should be safe to connect the water cooler fan to the hub as well. If you go with this set up it would mean that your fan speeds are all dependent on the CPU temperature, which might cause problems if you do GPU intensive stuff that doesn't affect the CPU.

For a better result there's probably some program that gives you manual control though.
If so you would have what you intended to have with the difference that the controls are digital.

Edit: I just did some more digging and got some more options for you.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/nzxt-grid-v3-internal-digital-6-fan-controller-bb-004-nx.html
This would be a luxury version of what I linked above. it comes with it's own software and some gimmicks.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/lamptron-cp436-4-channel-fan-control-for-pci-slot-silver-fg-005-lp.html
This would be a possibility if you have a free pci slot. It gives you some knobs on the back of your case with which you can control your fans. You'll need to use additional Y-splitters to connect all fans but that should be fine.

Pwm controller

https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

as an example.

Thanks I am in the UK, is this the same thing?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phanteks-PH-PWHUB_01-system-fan-hub/dp/B00M0R05WE?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

What if I used this: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/3-pin-fan-control-explanation.2976667/

Using this device: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=fan+hub+phanteks&qid=1549914282&s=electronics&sr=1-2

Would I be able to replace the pump fan on the CPU_FAN header and adjust the speeds via Corsair Link?

Edit: I suppose I could just use it on the pump too right? apparently this device converts 4pin modulation to 3pin voltage regulation. So I could potentially use it on the pump's 4pin for the four 3pin.

you can get one that will be easily hidden in your case for around 20 bucks. this thats amazon.ca so expect it to be cheaper if you're in the USA

EDIT: fans corsiar AF or SP are both good, AF for more air flow, SP if you want static pressure ofc they both come in LED versions

Not sure what you mean. The NZXT Kraken G12? Google will find it :P the fan hub was a

https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE Which needs 1 PWM fan and then the rest of the fans connected will mirror its settings.

​

I jsut ended up with a 4 pin Gelid GPU adapter and a PWM Y splitter and use MSI Afterburner. The fan hub now joins my parts and accessories box in the closet.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $329.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | NZXT Kraken X62 Liquid CPU Cooler | $158.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI Z270 SLI PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $129.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $179.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 960 Evo 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $127.98 @ NCIX US
Storage | Crucial MX300 1.1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $272.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card |-
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case | $189.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $88.89 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Flow 106.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Flow 106.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Flow 106.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Monitor | AOC AG271QG 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | $590.98 @ Newegg
Mouse | Logitech G403 Prodigy Wired Optical Mouse | $62.89 @ OutletPC
Headphones | Sennheiser G4ME ONE Black Headset | $158.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2506.98
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $2476.98
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-20 16:30 EDT-0400 |