(Part 2) Best internal solid state drives according to redditors
We found 12,951 Reddit comments discussing the best internal solid state drives. We ranked the 980 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I gotta say, upgrading from even a 10k rpm HDD to a cheap SSD was the single biggest bang for buck computer upgrade i have ever made in ~20 years of building PCs.
smile.amazon.com/Crucial-BX500-480GB-2-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B07G3KRVWP/EDIT:smile.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0786QNS9B/
There's actually some good stuff in the mix:
167.99 on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07822Z77M
They were over $1000 USD for years, but in the last 3 they've been around 300 dollars.
I recently got this SSD last cyber monday for $280
So starting from the ground up.
APC PDUs into two seperate circuits.
The cisco switch is the only device without redundant power. But again, it's only running IPMI which I can't make redudant anyway.
The 4 servers, 2 switches, and qnap are both each plugged into both PDUs.
I set up both Nutanix Clusters (3 node, 1 node). All the VMS on my 3 node are snapshotted and replicated to the 1 node cluster daily for 30 days and monthly for 72 months. Nutanix does not offer a way to export their VMS. No 3-2-1 rule for them.
I shut down a test VM on 3 node cluster and switched to the other 1 node cluster I was doing their data protection on. Hit restore and the vm came right back up on this 1 node cluster. pretty happy with that.
The VMS themselves back up their data daily to the QNAP using emcopy.exe. Qnap has backup software, I just haven't had time to get into it.
These clusters have been up and running for about 2 months. I finally copied all of the old data off the old servers and got them unplugged last night. That was a great feeling.
I am currently running 25 VMs (+3 controller vms). personal, friends, media, mysql, mssql, nginx, mongo, redis, domain controllers, dns, etc all adds up pretty quick. I am a developer by trade, so I have a lot of expermination and code all over the place.
Once pleasant suprise is that since most of my VMs are a clone and I am running the data dedupe, I am getting ~20:1 effeciency. I am only using around 2.5% of my logical data storage.
I refuse to do the exact math, but I am well over $8k into this.
So lets go back to my goals
no single point of failure.
Any cable can pulled and nothing turns off.
If any piece of hardware fails, all my vms continue running.
faster speed.
Nutanix has some voodoo. The VMs disk benchmark is faster than my NVME desktop.
Network copying gets 600mbps+ tends to slow down on transfers of serveral gbs. Needs to investigate more.
some sorta backup.
doing snap shots to secondary cluster.
nutanix allows file level restore from previous snapshots.
data copied to nas daily.
would like actual file level back up to nas eventually.
Since someone will ask. I am running between 4-5 amps on each APC.
Problems I have encountered:
Nutanix does not show the network cards in their web interface. They show up fine in the CLI?
2 Ram sticks were returning ECC errors. Used servers, this is a risk. Monitor your IMPI people!
Watchguard does not technically support Nutanix. So the manager shows a lot of warnings. Support said they are just warnings.
I somehow crashed a nutanix install on the satadom. Was able to get it re installed relatively quickly. requires a live cd to image the disk. I bought a 5th satadom to just have on hand.
No way to monitor the disk SMART info from nutanix that I have found yet.
Hardware List;
2x APC7900
https://www.amazon.com/APC-AP7900-Switched-Surge-Protector/dp/B0000AAAYH
​
Cisco SG110-24
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDNHKQ4
​
2x QUANTA LB6M 24-PORT 10GBE SFP+
https://www.unixplus.com/products/quanta-lb6m-24-port-10gbe-sfp-4x-1gbe-l2-l3-switch
​
4x SUPERMICRO 1U X9DRI-LN4F+ SERVER
Dual E5-2650 V2, 128gb Ram (8x16gb)
https://unixsurplus.com/collections/1u-servers/products/supermicro-1u-x9drw-3ln4f-dual-intel-xeon-e5-2670-octo-core-2-6ghz-1u-server
​
4x Intel X520-DA2 10Gbps SFP+
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833106044
​
8x WD Blue 1tb SSD
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX
​
4x 16gb SATADOM
https://www.amazon.com/Supermicro-SSD-DM016-PHI-16GB-SATADOM/dp/B00NGBW5GM/
​
6x WD RE 2tb spinny drives (Nutanix 3 node cluster) (pulled from last lab)
2x WD RE 4tb spinny drives (Nutanix 1 node cluster) (pulled from last lab)
​
QNAP TS-432XU-RP-2G-US
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWC85JH/
​
4x WD 6tb Red Pro
https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Red-Hard-Drive/dp/B07B1HX5KN/
or just get the Inland Premium for $102
https://www.amazon.com/Inland-Premium-M-2-2280-Internal/dp/B07RCM6DXK/
In the words of so many here, "Jesus Fucking Christ" is the first thing I have to say! It's so awesome to see everyone pumped up over the build. If I had known there would be so many comments, I'd have posted the pictures with some context, but I'll try and answer your questions now.
Are you posting more pictures?
Definitely! As soon as I get stuck into the meat of the build (this weekend maybe?) I'll take a few snaps during the build and the final result.
What are you going to do with this thing?
Play Minecraft on the lowest resolution possible with the particle effects and clouds turned off of course!
But seriously, there are several use cases intended for this rig, some personal, some work related:
Why four Titan X cards? Give 980 Ti some love!
Originally I considered two Titan X cards and two 980 Ti cards for this build, but that idea was discarded for a few reasons and considerations, some more logical than others:
For those asking about PALIT branded cards, they offer a reference design card for Titan X, which is fine, because most other vendors do the same. I will of course be dismantling the cards to add waterblocks to them, and possibly doing other crazy, potentially warranty-voiding overclocky things to them.
That Sandisk Ultra II..it's so peasantly compared to the 950 Pro.
I should have mentioned that I also have a 1TB 840 Evo that I'll be bringing over from my current workstation, which has a fairly negligible performance benefit over an 850 Evo and Pro in a practical setting.
The Ultra II was a Cyber Monday deal, much cheaper than an 850 Evo or Pro for reasonable performance and storage capacity, and more than enough for infrequent secondary storage.
De-ionized water, why not distilled?
I didn't list it in the pictures because it hasn't arrived yet, but I am expecting a delivery of distilled water tomorrow for filling the loop. The de-ionized water will be used to flush water blocks and radiators as it is a cheaper source of purified water to obtain here in the UK (unlike distilled water, which stores don't stock like in the US).
Biocide, coolant, anti-corrosives?
I have decided to start with distilled water and a couple of drops of Mayham's Biocide (a copper sulphate concentrate), and keep a close eye on the loop for the first few months to see how it works out, and introduce corrosion inhibitors if needed. I am fortunate that my loop mostly consists of copper, with brass and nickel plated/brass fittings, so at this point, my main concern would only be the tin/lead solder inside the radiators as being a potential corrosion hazard.
If anyone has information on corrosion inhibitor bases that can be added to water that don't contain a glycol mixture and dyes, and that are designed to protect copper/nickel/brass/tin/lead, I'd love to hear from you!
You better have awes-mazing monitors for that rig!
Baby steps...it has been five years since I built my last workstation, and everything will eventually have to be replaced, which includes five 21.5" 1080p 60Hz monitors. Replacing those is a financially crippling research project in itself, but for now, the tower is the first replacement to be dealt with.
Are you going to trick this thing out with LEDs, chrome rims and a sexy lady lounging over the case?
No, the tower isn't really all that visible in practice as it would be sitting behind a monitor (and not repositionable as the whole desk is covered in monitors!), so I did not intend on going crazy with lights, colored tubing and platinum case trim, instead directing the budget towards more practical components.
How much did the rig cost to build?
I'd better leave the number crunching to my rich daddy and his solid gold, diamond encrusted calculator.
Parts list, I demand it!
Component | Product Name | Quantity | Product Info URL
---|---|----|----
Motherboard | Asus X99-E WS | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/X99-E-WS-Workstation-Motherboard-Capacitors/dp/B00NJGJJE0
Processor | Intel Core i7 5960X | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Extreme-Processor-Socket-2011-V3/dp/B00N1O4RRY
Graphics Card | Palit NVIDIA GeForce GTX TITAN X | 4 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Palit-Graphics-DisplayPort-Dual-link-PCI-Express/dp/B00UXOGCP0
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Primo | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phanteks-PH-ES813P_BL-Enthoo-Primo-Tower/dp/B00EB0A6FE
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA 1600W G2 | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Power-Supply/dp/B00MGPJHPQ
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64 GB (8x 8 GB) DDR4 2400 MHz | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CMK64GX4M8A2400C14-Vengeance-Performance-Desktop/dp/B00PLERJ7M
SSD | SanDisk Ultra II 960GB | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Ultra-Sata-2-5-inch-Internal/dp/B00M8ABHVQ
SSD | Samsung 840 EVO 1TB (From Previous Build) | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-2-5-inch-Basic-Solid-State/dp/B00E3W16OU
CPU Waterblock | EK-Supremacy EVO – Acetal | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-acetal
GPU Waterblock | Titan X/GTX 980Ti Copper Acetal Water Cooling Block EKWB | 4 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-acetal
GPU Backplate | Black Aluminum TITAN X/980Ti Water Block Retention Backplate | 4 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-backplate-black
GPU Bridge | EK-FC Terminal QUAD Semi-Parallel - Titan READY | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-quad-semi-parallel
Tubing | TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm (1 meter) | 3 | https://shop.ekwb.com/tube-primochill-primoflextm-advanced-lrttm-9-5-15-9-mm-crystal-clear
Compression Fitting | EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm | 20 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-acf-fitting-10-16mm-black
90 Degree Fitting | EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 | 6 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-black
Ball Valve Fitting | EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-black
Pump Top | Alphacool HF D5 TOP - Black Acetal | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-HF-D5-TOP-mounting/dp/B00L5J1YIC
Reservoir | Alphacool Repack Dual 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-Repack-cooling-pressure-monitor/dp/B007ENAVCI
Pump | Alphacool VPP655 D5 Pump | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-VPP655-PWM-Single-cooling/dp/B00LLR40OI
Radiator | Alphacool 35281 NexXxoS UT60 Radiator 480 | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-NexXxoS-Copper-480mm/dp/B007P05Y18
Radiator | Alphacool 35279 NexXxoS UT60 Radiator 240 | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Copper-240mm/dp/B007P05XUU
Radiator Fans | Corsair SP120 PWM Quiet Edition (Dual Pack) | 5 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050006-WW-SP120-Quiet-Pressure/dp/B007RESFR2
Fan Controller | Phobya PWM 8 x 4Pin Fan Splitter | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phobya-PWM-8x-4Pin-Splitter/dp/B00OD7MO6E
Biocide | Mayhems Biocide 10ml | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mayhems-Solutions-Ltd-Biocide-10ml/dp/B007WDOKAE
If you made it this far through the rambling, thanks for reading, keep an eye out for more pictures, and keep on being glorious!
>While MMT provides an internally consistent and empirically robust account of the way the economy works, it also clearly challenges the way in which humans think about macroeconomic concepts. But through careful use of language and avoiding the established macroeconomic metaphors, we can develop a coherent understanding of the conceptual framework developed in this textbook.
My copy of Mitchell/Wray/Watts, Macroeconomics, has arrived.
My prior from Chapter 1 is that this book is not meant as an attempt to engage other macroeconomists in a debate over teaching strategies. [Yes, textbooks can engage with other economists, even at the 101 level. This is not a vacuous criticism.] This book is meant as an attempt to combat "MediaMacro," as u/besttrousers would put it. That's not necessarily a bad thing: I have long been of the opinion that one overarching goal of a good 101 book should be to teach students how to read the WSJ or FT or The Economist intelligently and critically.
This book is meant to equip young leftists with a language and a framework for making political economy arguments. The book has enemies; it lays them out for you to see in Chapter 1, and will be battling those enemies throughout the text. That may or may not be a bad thing, but it means the book isn't even bad economics -- it's just not economics at all. I withhold judgment as to whether it is good preparation for intermediate macro at the level of Blanchard or Williamson until after I've read the substantive chapters.
As such, as an economist, this book is likely to be terribly boring. I will soldier on regardless. Surely there are some economic arguments somewhere that I can pick at. However, it is difficult to decide what frame of mind I should be in when I read it.
Throughout, I will likely compare it to Cowen and Tabarrok's Modern Principles: Macroeconomics, which is a mostly mainstream but slightly offbeat textbook that ought to cover similar material. I do not have a copy of Mankiw's Principles text on hand, or I'd use that instead.
u/wumbotarian, this book cost me $65. As such, the opportunity cost of this book was one 500 GB solid-state drive. Here's hoping it was worth it. Or perhaps there was no opportunity cost, because the money was going to be "idle" anyway...
1tb version also $81 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K1J3C23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EDIT: Nevermind, this one is gone already. Went super fast.
Theres also the m.2 version for the same price.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-860-SATA-Internal-MZ-N6E1T0BW/dp/B07822Z77M
You should get an SSD. 512GB, or better yet, 1TB. They've really fallen in price. Amazon has the WD Blue SSD for $115 and that's what I have. I'm crying (not literally, LOL) because I paid $300 for that. And it's amazing. I don't regret it. I mean, I know you're being facetious about 20 minutes to launch an app store, but with an SSD, you can go from your computer having been off a week, to you reading Reddit, in like six seconds flat. I'm not kidding. It's stupid fast. Your computer is probably faster than you think. The bottleneck is your hard drive. Replace it with an SSD, and let the app stores start when the computer does.
There are apps that combine all your games into one place, kind of like what Steam does, but for all the app stores, plus emulators. The main one I know of is called LaunchBox. Personally I think it's a giant pain in the knob, but I respect the hustle. I mean, I'm lazy. If I want to play a game, I just launch it from the start menu. If you launch the game, it'll launch any dependencies in the background, and that's that. It's never been an issue. LaunchBox is free, by the way, with a $20 pro version that does some cool shit. And the author sounds like a great guy. If you like what you see, definitely try it out. Maybe the all-in-one launcher thing is for you. I'm old school. Same with music... I don't do music libraries, I just play the songs out of my file manager. Old school. It's worked for ~20 years, why change it?
So buy one. They're like, $350.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427478813&sr=8-1&keywords=1TB+SSD
I would get the MX500 over this in a heart beat. It is cheaper too actually https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0786QNS9B/?tag=pcp0f-20
Instead of that SSD, I would probably pick up an m.2 card as they are extremely cheap right now. I would go with the Intel 660p 1 TB. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ptTPCbS4ABCAW
M.2 form factor for the same price
At the time of posting, this Sandisk 480GB SSD is only £50.99...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01F9G46Q8
...which isn't much more for a well known brand. Only downside is you can't make a swear word from the name, with or without a tipp-ex.
ur a scrub
The Inland Premium 1TB is only $10 more and is better than this one, I'd pony up the extra cash for that if you can.
https://www.amazon.com/Inland-Premium-M-2-2280-Internal/dp/B07RCM6DXK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=23QCXNGILK0BQ&keywords=inland+premium+1tb&qid=1564348115&s=gateway&sprefix=inland+%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-2
A few TB of SSD?!
Yeah guys, those aren't the specification of the PC. For those wondering, this is what a cheap 1 TB SSD looks like, it's typically over £300. "A few" would imply 2 or 3 of these things. There's no way anyone would be crazy enough to make that computer just to play minecraft.
Unless you're recording in 4k or something like that.
Unfortunately, pricing hasn't been released yet but I expect it to be more expensive than Samsung's 950 Pro M.2 512GB PCIe NVMe: $313.99 USD.
BGA SSD: 16 mm x 20 mm x 1.5 mm = 480 mm^3 = 0.48 cm^3.
Equivalent volume in gold: 0.48 cm^3 = 0.297567 troy oz.
Today's spot gold price: $1,215.20 per troy oz.
$1,215.20 x 0.297567 = $361.60 USD
Inventory:
pfSense:
Snort, pfBlockerNG, OpenVPN, Squid, ClamAV, Default deny ingress/egress FW, etc.
ZOTAC ZBOX NUC
Kingston 120GB SSD
Crucial 8GB DDR3L RAM
ESXi Hypervisor:
Skull Canyon NUC
32GB DDR4 RAM
Samsung 950 Pro 512GB M.2 SSD
Virtual Machines I'm currently running.
Splunk - Receives my FW, DNS, Snort, and OSSEC logs. I have dashboards to filter this data.
Snorby - Also receives my Snort logs. I like this a little better than Splunk as I can view packet contents.
OSSEC - I used this for file integrity and endpoint monitoring on my servers and desktop. Functions as a host based IDS.
Nessus - I use this every once in a while to see if there are any open holes. Otherwise, I just use nmap and iptables to close everything off.
Unifi Controller - for managing my AP.
Wireless:
Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite
Switch:
TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit L2 Switch
RetroPi + Monitor:
RPi3
10.1 Inch IPS HDMI Monitor
My VMs, configs, and files are backed up to a HDD I keep offline. I'm thinking about adding a NAS into the mix for somewhere around 200-400 dollars. Low energy consumption preferably if anyone had any recommendations. :)
There's the MX300 275gb on amazon for the same price, which I would rather get if you needed a boot ssd right now.
I could be wrong but the link from the OP looks like a referral link.
Anyhow posting a link to the same product via Amazon smile
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/
Link to said Sabrent Rocket: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD
I'll have a crack at this although I'll be making some dubious assumptions.
According to this news report from the BBC in 2013, the "largest study ever done into human sexuality" estimated that around 4% of websites are porn. So lets assume 4% of all data on the internet is porn.
In 2005, Eric Schmidt from google estimated that the size of the internet was around 5,000,000 Terabytes.
In 2005, according to this page. There were around 65,000,000 websites. And now there is around 700,000,000. An increase of ~10.8x. So with this I'm going to assume an estimate for the size of the internet today to be around 10.8 x 5,000,000 TB which is 54,000,000 TB.
If we use our estimate of 4% porn, that is 2,160,000 TB of Porn.
Using PC part picker, I found the cheapest HDD price/GB wise to be a 3TB HDD for $99.99. If you wanted to store all the porn on these, you would have to buy 720,000 of them at a cost of $71,992,800 (assuming each actually could hold the full 3TB).
If you wanted it all on SSDs, then you would need 2,160,000 of these which would cost you $982,778,400.
If anyone has any better estimates for this data let me know.
Here is one that my squad and I have zero issues with. Works like a charm.
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gs0SCbBVK5W2M
And here is the case
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cs0SCb5R6QZQ8
Terrible deal. Spend $6 less and get a much better drive.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $299.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus Z97-P ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $110.47 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory | $83.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | PNY GeForce GTX 970 4GB XLR8 Video Card | $329.99 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT Phantom 240 ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | CoolMax 600W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer | $12.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) | $119.98 @ Newegg
Other| Asetek High Efficiency 120MM| $55.00
Other| Tt eSPORTS Talon Gaming Mouse| $20.00
Other| Tt eSPORTS Backlit| $30.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1220.37
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-30 06:12 EST-0500 |
OP's build on website (roughly).
OP WELCOME. I am always so happy seeing new people looking into getting a quality computer! Welcome to the community! I am going to give you my advice and take it with a grain of salt. I am biased and my mentality is get best bang for your buck but if it cost 20-30$ for quality than jump on that!
First off OP, I HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend building/picking your own parts on retailers websites or PCPP (pcpartpicker.com). You will save loads of money compare to buying from a site like the one you were on. Also, knowing you built your own PC just makes it even better! You will cherish it more! So lets get to it...
RAM: Yes they are offering a promo for a "FREE" upgrade but the promo is a bit scary. They don't even tell you all the specs on the RAM! Serious bothers me. You could get a DDR3 2133 with CAS of 9-11. Even though this isn't that big of a deal, it still matters a bit! Why pay 83$ when you could spend 5$ dollars for the better quality one. Also, the RAM they chose is a bit pricey at the moment. I would suggest going with something cheap like DDR3 1600-1866 with CAS 9 or 10.
Storage: Doesn't even give a brand or even model! This scares me a bit because they could just throw you a cheap brand with a model that could be shit. I just chose the cheapest 1TB at 7200RPM with 32 cache.
Video Card: Again doesn't even tell you the brand. You won't even know the clock speed or what type of cooler it has! This might not seem much to you but it is a big deal.
PSU: 600W 80+ PSU sounds good to new people but you could do soooo much better. If you throw like 10-20 dollars at the PSU you could easily get 500-650Watt GOLD or even if you wanted to save I know Corsair has some cheap BRONZE PSUs.
Optical Drive: They just chose the cheapest one and at the moment it is LG. There is a better one out there for the price/performance (ASUS).
OS: I highly recommend taking an OS on an older computer if you have one and using that product key for your new computer. If you don't have that option than actually 60$ for Windows 8.1 isn't bad. Although if you are a student you could get it cheaper from Microsoft. I pray in the future Microsoft makes their OS free. Would help so many builders out.
Keyboard: I couldn't even find that model. I don't even know if it is a mechanical keyboard. I just put 30$ just because that's how much it looks like. (If you don't know about mechanical keyboards come over to /r/mechanicalkeyboards. Great community and they have lots of information regarding mechanical keyboards.)
Mouse: I don't know too much about it so I won't comment.
Cooler: The cooler you chose is so old and to be honest it probably doesn't even perform that well. You could do better.
SSD: I seriously love the EVO and the MX100. Such great SSDs for the price. However, at the moment this baby is killing it. SanDisk Ultra II:
Overall OP build your own computer. I even limited parts to Amazon and Newegg and also turned off rebates and it was cheaper. For basically a 1260$ build you could buy all your parts now and get better quality for the same price than buying from that website. I bet you could even fit a monitor in there if you bought your parts on sale!
I HIGHLY recommend buying your parts over time if you can. There is really no reason to buy them all at once unless you are in need for a computer. Come over to /r/buildapcsales. We have such a wonderful community and everyone is very helpful.
This is quite a bit faster, but it has been cheaper than this before.
https://www.amazon.com/Inland-Premium-M-2-2280-Internal/dp/B07RCM6DXK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=inland+1tb&qid=1574077447&s=electronics&sr=1-4
This is the same drive as op and it's cheaper.
In stock at amazon as well for the same price if you're Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1409068418&sr=8-9&keywords=ssd
A few good SSD deals on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A
I bought this one didn't realize it was different
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Whoa. Yeah. Not bad. Regardless. That's still more expensive. Right now for 128$ you can get 1TB Samsung M.2 SSD's.
x9 90$ = 180$, still more expensive. About the same as the HP NVME's really.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
Not to shabby. You're right. Regardless, it's still 32$ more. One could claim "Future proof", but it really isn't. By the time we're needing NVME speeds (I can't even imagine it happening within 7-10 years) in regular workloads, prices will be down more or something even better will exist.
But damn if that isn't a tempting price. Still got a M.2 slot open on my board lol.
Regardless:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-ssd-660p-qlc-nvme,5719-2.html
There's a reason they're so cheap. Almost half the speed of a Samsung NVME drive. Realistically, if the reason you want a NVME drive is because they're "faster" than SSDs, the Intel one doesn't make too much sense.
I dunno. The whole almost 4Gbps to me is the big deal about NVme. 1.8Gbps isn't too big a deal. My friend had 2Gbps years ago with a raid array of 4 500GB SSDs.
If you're gonna go NVME, might as well go Samsung or at least any that break the 3K+ mark.
your link takes me to amazon search here is the actual item's link-
https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
thanks so much for the heads up, ive been waiting to grab an nvme. amazon works best as it will be here tomorrow!
Cheaper and better RAM.
Very slightly Cheaper, bigger and possible better SSD
Cheaper GPU(Although not sure about delivery costs)
I'm sure there are other case that are cheaper but looks are subjective so I wont bother linking any.
Any money saved for the love of god get a better quality PSU. Even if it is something lower end like a Corsair VS or Cooler Master MWE, neither are great supplies but better than any Game Max one I'd bet. Remember the PSU is the corner stone of your build, never ever try and save money on it.
Price, its nearly twice as expensive
Samsung 850 Pro SSD $170
Samsung 950 EVO NVME PCIE $320
Well you could technically, if you slap one of these onto the $400-500 "console killer" builds: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-512GB-PCIe-NVMe/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1449103311&sr=8-7&keywords=intel+ssd+nvme
Note that loading speeds are pretty much all about storage, and any of the builds on those ranges has more than enough CPU power to process the transfer. You could also RAMdisk it, but that'll probably be more expensive unless your rig's already running 32GB for some reason.
Better $/GB with the 275GB MX300: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD5O/?tag=pcp0f-20
EDIT: And it's cheaper than the PNY drive, even if by a tiny amount.
Also $110 at amazon with prime shipping
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BQ8RM1A?vs=1
Warning: mobile link, don't know how to fix
They've actually been going down in price considerably.
Looks like Amazon is price matching, too:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU
Also the same price at Amazon.com - for now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07822Z77M/
2.5 inch
Not sure what conflicting answers you speak of.
Any modern/new SSD of 256GB or more will suffice. Whether that's an internal or external is up to you. An internal will need an adapter that transfers it's connection to USB 3.
Name brands MAY last longer than a cheap off brand, but the data in test results doesn't really support that. I use an external Samsung T5 but only because I got it for a birthday present. Most of my friends have Amazon specials that cost far less and so far have given the same results in PUBG.
Recommended:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ssd+256gb&qid=1558678862&s=pc&sprefix=ssd+256&sr=1-3
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3/139-8676850-0599245?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00OJ3UJ2S&pd_rd_r=2d362e9e-7dec-11e9-8740-41568e48106d&pd_rd_w=YUiIL&pd_rd_wg=4ofBA&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=PYHDBFYYVZTD6HQWT0GG&psc=1&refRID=PYHDBFYYVZTD6HQWT0GG
I bought this SSD for just over $30 Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And then this case all for under $50 Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Totally worth it in my opinion. Buildings and weapons are loaded in when I drop on all of the maps :)
Well... 84% of reviews with 4 stars or more isn't worth trusting surely.
If someone's short on money while having an insanely slow PC, it's still much better than keeping complaining.
It's an ok deal. I prefer the Silicon Power P34A80 for about the same price, since it doesn't slow down as much when the drive starts to fill up. Also doesn't have a massive heat-spreader if space is an issue (both are double sided so space may still be an issue in some laptops).
Question here... For a ryzen 3700x build, should I buy this SSD?
Or this SSD;
XPG GAMMIX 1TB S11 Pro 3D NAND PCIe NVMe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 SSD (AGAMMIXS11P-1TT-C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KZNTZYB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xZglDbHSFB4EY
Or this SSD:
Inland Premium 1TB SSD 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCM6DXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y2glDbA7664TX
Thanks!
Also on sale at the same price on Amazon, in case that's a preference.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=lp_10152137011_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1415030125&sr=1-5
Por volta das 2h30/3h começou a ir normalizando e a black friday deles vai durar até dia 1.
Acabei por aproveitar algumas promoções deles (especialmente nas rams que andam incrivelmente caras em qualquer lado) para montar um PC, algo que já andava a planear há alguns meses:
Do. Not. Buy. This. Shit.
840's were notorious for being trash. This isn't even a good price anyways. You can get a used 1 tb 850 Evo for less.
If you can go with this Intel Solid State Drive (SSD), 660P Series, 1 TB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R9BSDbA8SK3N1
Note that this is a SATA M.2 drive, so it won't be any faster than the 2.5" version. It's just smaller form factor. To get the speed gains, you need a PCI-E M.2 like this one.
Still a good deal! I'm just saving my M.2 slot.
the patriot scorch is nvme.. it isn't quite a fair fight
but keep in mind that drive is nvme 1.2 ... most are 1.3 now
if you want NVME, this Sabrent Rocket for 60 is MUCH better for an NVME drive for only a few dollars more
Make sure to look at reviews for the NVMe only (Most, if not all, of those RMA stories involve the 3D NAND) : https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Gen3x4-000MB-SU001TBP34A80M28AB/product-reviews/B07L6GF81L/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_fmt?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews&formatType=current_format&pageNumber=1
Refrain from using referral link formatting from now on. In this case,https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0786QNS9B/ref=pe_2237760_280446610_em_1p_1_ti?th=1would simply becomehttps://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0786QNS9B/I stand corrected. Don't fucking listen to me. Thanks u/karmapopsicle
Also same price on Amazon if you prefer:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=twister_B00PRDMHLU?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Estimated Total $1736 +tax and shipping
There're a few areas you could scrimp to get to $1500. This is basically my build, but I went with 4 nodes, a bigger switch, and a cheap 4 pack of longer cables (10gtek's 4 packs have a decent discount). If the price of the Intel 660p has your attention for multiple capacity drives, I suggest an x470 or x570 mobo that can do x4x4x4x4 bifurcation on the x16 slot and then use a quad m.2 board without a PCIe switch for them (ones from ASUS and ASrock are ~$100 which can negate any cost savings). There are boards with a PCIe switch that will work with the above board, but they're very expensive.
If you get a MikroTik switch, use RouterOS because SwOS apparently has bugs beyond what I experienced. If you get one of their PoE switches, be careful with non-PoE devices. Mine was working fine, but I triggered a bug in SwOS and it toasted some gear; I need to have a conversation with MikroTik and the seller to see what can be done about what got toasted.
Well, first off: OS X 10.11 El Capitan isn't the newest macOS version for your MacBook Pro. Your MacBook pro actually supports macOS 10.13 High Sierra. High Sierra can still be downloaded from the Mac App Store, it is just hidden. Here is the link to it (click this link in Safari only, not in Chrome or Firefox!):
OS X El Capitan went out of support in the fall of 2018, so it has been missing out on security for quite some time. Every major macOS version has 1 year of mainstream support (the time frame between its own initial release and the initial release of its successor one year later) and two years of security support immediately after that. Security support includes Safari updates.
Mainstream support for High Sierra has already ended, but its security support only ends in the fall of 2020. So if you update your MacBook Pro to High Sierra, it is still safe to use.
-----
You can speed your machine up by adding more RAM and an SSD to it:
Your MacBook Pro supports up to 16 GB RAM (2 x 8 GB RAM modules). A higher amount than that won't work due to a limitation in the logic board.
You need to buy RAM that matches the following specifications:
PC3-8500 1066 MHz DDR3, 204-pin
Those are some examples of RAM that should work:
-----
As for the SSD, your MacBook Pro supports every SSD that meets the following criteria:
Here are some examples of SSDs that should work:
Before you install the SSD, it is advisable to create a backup of the files you want to keep. Store them on some external drive.
You can then reinstall macOS either via Internet Recovery or a macOS 10.13 High Sierra installer USB-Stick (which is the last OS your MacBook Pro supports).
-----
As for the battery: The battery is replaceable in MacBook Pros 2010. However, you won't be able to get an OEM battery Apple uses, most likely. Those are sold out by now and no longer available, unless you are extremely lucky. There are third party batteries that work, though, like this one for the 13" version(!):
-----
> I also heard mixed things about the new butterfly keyboards, but overall it seems once you get used to them they make your typing faster? So that sounds good for me if it's true
The problem is less the feeling of the butterfly keyboard; beauty is in the eye of the beholder. The problem is that the butterfly keys sometimes outright fail if small particles - like dust - intrude under them. I have discussed the problem here (last paragraph):
Grab one while you can!
Back in Stock for now edit: Price-match for amazon went through if you wanna grab it there instead https://smile.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH
128GB amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SU128GBSS3A55S25AC/dp/B07D7VTDNB/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538495960&sr=8-1&keywords=silicon+power+128gb+ssd
256GB amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075RJS55D&pd_rd_r=21bf0dc2-c65c-11e8-a085-97365cd70759&pd_rd_w=fCBsh&pd_rd_wg=aoiWs&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=56838e6b-66d4-41e0-a762-743f1a1a628a&pf_rd_r=E7TDD8RSQJ5TPEZY22D7&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=E7TDD8RSQJ5TPEZY22D7
512GB amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP512GBSS3A55S25/dp/B07997QV4Z/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07997QV4Z&pd_rd_r=21bf0dc2-c65c-11e8-a085-97365cd70759&pd_rd_w=fCBsh&pd_rd_wg=aoiWs&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=56838e6b-66d4-41e0-a762-743f1a1a628a&pf_rd_r=E7TDD8RSQJ5TPEZY22D7&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=E7TDD8RSQJ5TPEZY22D7
I have an SSD and that improved my loading times by a good amount of time, also helps to have better internet, my speeds are good enough but not great at all.
They really aren't that expensive, I'll point you in the right direction if you want. Also helps a ton with games like PUBG, BF, Red Dead, GTA etc.
.
Edit: If anyone is wondering I have one 512GB Silicon Power 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive from Amazon for $49.99 USD along with another of the same Silicon Power SSD but in 256GB for $28.99 USD.
Then you need the enclosure which costs $8.99: Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized for SSD, Support UASP SATA III]. Super simple set up, literally open the enclosure by sliding the top off, slide the SSD into the connection slot in the enclosure, put the top on, plug it in to the USB slot and turn the thing on. Really nice price, had never heard of the brand but it has really good reviews, and works well for me. Just about the cheapest SSD I've seen on Amazon with an average review of 4.5+ (and at least 1k reviews).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RJS55D/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o2_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o2_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's the exact stuff I bought. Buildings always load before I hit the ground
Here is the SSD I bought. $31. You also need to buy a $10 enclosure to plug it in via usb. It has made a massive difference. I would never, ever, ever even try to play this game with out it. Just think about it like upgrading your PC.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJS55D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SSD : https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D
Enclosure : https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Together, they are pretty cheap. Just pop the SSD in the enclosure, plug in, and you’re good to go.
For another $7.30, the Sabrent Rocket 512gb is much better.
As far as I can tell, it's a rebrand/clone of the Silicon Power A80. the review can be found here.
When you look at the PCB layout of the A80 (shown in review) compared to the Inland Premium's on the amazon listing, the board components are exactly the same - dram vendor, solder points, controller, everything.
The A80 can also be found on amazon for a similar price here - there's even a 2tb model but afaik that one is double sided, meaning it may not fit in some space-constrained slots.
Inland is pretty close in performance and this is $25 more for 1TB on amazon
You can get it on amazon for 105 so id go that since shipping is probably faster, returns easier and 1 buck cheaper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCM6DXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5Ns8Cb94V70XW
Same price on Amazon (been that way for awhile).
I think the bottleneck is the latency that occurs between geographically separated validators of the network. U have to give validators around 1,5-2 seconds and they also need some time to generate a block (process transactions) when they are assigned to it. Adding a small safety margin i guess 3-4 seconds is the limit and afaik Casper is aiming for exactly that.
It's a globally p2p network in the end. Thats why scaling horizontally with sharding is the right approach.
Btw: one of the fastest ledger close intervals i know can be found on the Ripple consensus ledger (~3.5 sec). I know their network topology favors centralization and currently the network is still run by 5 validators all controlled by Ripple but still: their tech is solid.
https://charts.ripple.com/#/metrics (Scroll down to "Ledger Close Interval")
Processing power only becomes important for the individual validator i think - the more ETH at stake, the more blocks will be assigned to that validator and the more processing power u will need to process all those transactions (and collect all those juicy fees...).
I remember Vitalik taking i wild guess that, depending on network usage, anything under 10k ETH could be staked with regular consumer hardware. My guess is that not only u will need a strong CPU but also quite a bit of RAM (which has become very cheap) and a fast storage medium ( NVMe SSDs are awesomely fast, around 3-5 times faster than regular SSDs)
Ubuntu 16.04 supports NVMe drives fine, My new computer has Ubuntu installed on a Samsung NVMe drive. The only issue is that hibernation wouldn't work unless the swap partition was put on a different drive.
The GParted included with 16.04 won't show NVMe drives unless you put the drive location in the launch command for GParted, which can make it look like Ubuntu can't see the drives. The other 'Disks' utiltiy and the installer both could see the drive immediately.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-Sata-Inch-Internal/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_5?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1538150240&sr=1-5&keywords=500gb+ssd
Even with an SSD, it still takes way too long.
Having said that, I highly recommend getting an SSD. One of the best component upgrades you can make. I can't imagine ever going back to an HDD. They're dirt cheap nowadays too ($110 for 1TB).
1 TB is available at Amazon @ 129 with the clip coupon
Meh, SX8200 Pro is cheaper.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07K1J3C23
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1408645649&sr=1-1&keywords=Mz-7te1t0bw
for those curious
This is a budget SSD. WAY faster than any mechanical HDD, but not as fast as midrange or higher range SSD's. Whether you'll even notice the speed difference, that's TBD. I think it's a fair price for $50, but I would personally not buy it, because for $75 you can find a 240GB mid range drive if you're patient and look for deals this weekend.
If you don't have the extra $25, go for this drive. If you do, wait for something like a crucial mx100, pny optima, pny xlr8, sandisk ultra II, sandisk extreme, or samsung evo 840 at around $75-$80
EDIT: Here is a midrange SSD, sync nand, all around faster and better performer for $12 more in the same 128GB capacity: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417277611&sr=8-1&keywords=Crucial+128GB+MX100
Is this the same model on Amazon for $259.99?
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS
The 860 evo is slightly faster (unnoticeable), but the main difference is much better endurance.
But this is the best choice:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0786QNS9B/?tag=pcp05-21
Not exaclty sure what you're asking, but the 500GB MX500 is the same price as the dual WD green drives you were considering.
link? because this one https://smile.amazon.com/Samsung-860-SATA-Internal-MZ-N6E1T0BW/dp/B07822Z77M/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543222799&sr=1-10&keywords=samsung+ssd+1tb which is the same model is $192.
$10 more for M.2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07822Z77M/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=used&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-SSD-PLUS-Internal-SDSSDA-1T00-G26/dp/B07D998212/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=1tb+ssd&qid=1570554474&sr=8-2
More specifically, NVME (which uses the M.2 form factor). I'd recommend this, which is cheaper than the Samsung, and just as good):
https://www.amazon.ca/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
Yes, it's double the Crucial P1's price, but this is much faster and has higher endurance (ADATA's TLC vs Micron's QLC; see here for explanation).
Price is a bit high?? These are 125 brand new on amazon rn. https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=adata+8200&qid=1569843669&s=gateway&sr=8-3
The [peripherals list](https://laptopmeter.com/best-black-friday-2019-deals-for-laptop-backpack-mouse-mouse-pad-and-keyboards/](https://laptopmeter.com/best-black-friday-2019-deals-for-laptop-backpack-mouse-mouse-pad-and-keyboards/) has a few good SSD options and I think the ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB would be a good option .
Price History
CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
_
Price of a Pawn, value of a Queen.
^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fbbvwnq%2Fssd_xpg_sx8200_pro_1tb_tlc_nvme_pcie_30x4_m22280%2Feklvrmp%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
10% off code 10O55JEG also works with:
EDIT:
Same sale as 13 days ago I believe: https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/aje68a/ssd_sabrent_rocket_1tb_2280m2_30x4_nvme_phison/
Info credit to u/NewMaxx
> Here are a few things to note: The 256GB, 512GB, and 2TB SKUs are also on sale using this code. The bottom three SKUs have the same $/GB while the 2TB has a premium ($404.99). The product page can be found here. Uses the Phison E12 with Toshiba's 64L 3D TLC NAND, like many other drives: Corsair MP510, MyDigitalSSD BPX Pro, Addlink S70, and Seagate BarraCuda/FireCuda 510. The warranty DOES NOT stand up with other drives in this category, it seems. As high warrantied TBW is a selling point of E12 drives, this is a disappointment; I suggest anyone interested in this drive contact Sabrent for clarification. Due to the previous two points, this drive would mostly fit the "Prosumer & Consumer" workstation category: fast sequentials, quad-core controller for heavier workloads and higher IOPS, basically a budget 970 EVO 11 | 22. I don't necessarily think this is a good deal on any particular SKU/capacity, but it's worth posting so the information is out there for those making decisions. There are a lot of these drives now.
Swap SSD with Sabrent Rocket 512GB for only $2 more. More speed and no cables to deal with over 2.5" SSD.
if you have an m.2 slot on your build go for an NVMe drive. the adata drives that are on sale for this deal are SATA, which, although also is the m.2 form factor, are much slower than NVMe and don't take advantage of PCIe lanes that are available in almost all modern motherboards.
for $60 on a 500GB drive, don't get intel 660p, both because of speed and reliability issues. For $60 you can get
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD
which is a great consumer m.2 drive that will be fast enough for 95% of consumer use cases.
This drive goes on sale every so often.
Ever so slightly slower but double capacity. Faster than the popular 660p.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "SSD"
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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_ABQDDbZDZP397
I bought this one recently. Its a little expensive, but its an official one made for xbox one by seagate, so decided to spend the extra money to get it as i had gift cards i needed to use anyway.
If you want one thats much cheaper that should work just as good, get this one:
Drive: https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1548282759&sr=8-3&keywords=ssd+256
Case: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1548283038&sr=8-4&keywords=ssd+enclosure
Why not buy one new?
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND With R/W Up To 550/450MB/s A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B806AbHMAB1AP
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This is the exact setup I just bought for my 1TB Xbox One. PUBG is amazing as well as I found a massive improvment in Tera Online. I also just needed more space.
SSD $59.50
Enclosure $8.99
I have this setup myself on original xbox, works great.
$95 shipped brand new. You might need to readjust the price.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J1xHybC1G1ZW3
I'm not sticking up for the Mac but your argument is an uneducated one. If you'd rather have a 5400rpm 1TB HDD hybrid with a 8GB SSD you're making horrible life decisions. The SSD in the new MBP is a NVME SSD, not sure you know of the tech but this particular Apple over priced crap reads and writes at 3.1GB/s. That is bytes not bits.
It's faster than something like https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M
Matter of fact Macs have had the lead in read write performance on their drives for years and still do. It's something I wish Dell and the like took more serious. You'll probably get about twice the battery life on the Mac compared to that Inspiron as well. Form factor and weight are no where near the same. Now a comparable build would be the Dell XPS 15. People need to understand hardware more thoroughly before speaking as if their experts.
Does your desktop's motherboard support M.2? If so, PCIe NVMe? https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/
It is only ~$100 more than an 850 Pro, but has 5x sequential read speeds. Make sure you read up on your motherboard and OS before buying. I've read reviews from people with motherboards that can't boot off of it, etc.
Otherwise, just an 850 Pro/EVO is fine. For mechanical storage, I'm currently buying 8TB WD externals (single drive, not dual!) for $250 and shucking them. Has worked out fairly well.
Pelican SD Case for on-set.
A high quality SSD is probably a better idea for portable editing. Flash drives are usually pretty cheaply made (read up on SLC, MLC, and TLC flash storage). I personally have a laptop that has two HDD ports, and one has a 1TB Sandisk Extreme Pro on it for a portable work drive.
For NAS, I love my Synology DS1815+ with 8 x 4TB WD RED drives installed.
When I drive home from a job, a lot of times the footage I'm transporting is worth more than my mortgage to my client. It's important to do everything and anything to protect it.
Well said, also on a sidenote, this is my first post, and I'm not quite sure if the link is attached to the post, just in case here it is:
https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511324342&sr=1-3&keywords=ssd
No, SanDisk caccapupù.
Prova con questo: https://www.amazon.it/Crucial-MX300-Interno-SATA-Pollici/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=s9_simh_gw_g147_i2_r?pf_rd_m=A11IL2PNWYJU7H&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=S6PS1S7YJ7WDTAXBWJVN&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=6bd4f0a5-b28d-436a-99f6-10d6a633030d&pf_rd_i=desktop
Quasi buono quanto un Samsung Evo, paghi un po' di più ma almeno hai un qualcosa di qualità e duraturo.
Mai risparmiare troppo su un SSD :)
As long as you have some spare SATA ports, go get yourself a cheap SSD. I wouldn't put anything too big in there.
​
This was on the deals subreddit for BAPC
​
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IAGSD5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2.5” is the same price.
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GMq3BbK1ZX6CD
What are you going on about? $125 is a steal for a 1TB SSD. He went EVO because that's what he could get. He obviously wasn't in a store where he had options.
For reference:
Samsung 850 EVO - 1TB $318.77 @ Amazon
Samsung 850 PRO - 1TB $419.19 @ Amazon
The 2.5 inch Samsung 850 evo is 250 dollars right now for the 1TB version (50% off). The m.2 form factor version is also 250 dollars. I just bought mine (the m.2) like 10 minutes ago. You also get a free copy of Watch Dogs 2 apparently, but I didn't get mine because I'm not in the US :(
EDIT: Here is a list of all the SSDs that samsung has ATM. Some of them have discounts.
$469 for a 1TB SSD I should get me one of those sometime soon.
Hey, Guess what, for the price of one of those 256GB SD cards, you can grab a 1TB SSD here
Fantastic. Multiple options. I prefer to use money I had saved in Paypal.
Amazon makes it feel like a better deal! ;) lol
Amazon Link
Amazon seems to have it for the same price?
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-SATA-Internal-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1417301507&sr=1-1&keywords=840+evo
Same deal on Amazon.ca
I don't want to do the math to find out how much I've spent on SSDs, but it's WORTH IT.
But as for the 840 Pro jatorres suggests... considering the age of the machine it is going into, I'd look for a cheaper SSD that's still highly rated, like the Crucial M500 128GB or 240GB. link
Sure: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-SATA-Internal-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU
Not him, but any 2.5in SATA drive should work. Here's some examples:
SanDisk SSD PLUS 1TB Internal SSD - $100
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - $110
Crucial MX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - $108
Now if you wanted something with 2TB of storage, it's gonna cost you a lot more. See here:
Samsung 860 QVO 2TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD - $227
WD Blue 3D NAND 2TB Internal PC SSD - $225
SanDisk Ultra 3D NAND 2TB Internal SSD - $210
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - WDS500G2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Wp8xDbGTP4B7C
Have you checked Amazon? They usually have these SSDs along the same price tag. I’ve seen them 85-100$ USD. There’s a Western Digital version of that SSD for about 88$ USD. There’s also a Crucial version of that SSD for about 88$ USD on Amazon. Not sure if it’s more expensive in AUS on Amazon. Hope I helped.
Edit: I’ll link you the items I’m talking about
This is the WD model
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s 2.5"/7mm Solid State Drive - WDS500G2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I9xPBb4VDW1BD
I personally own the WD one and it’s been pretty good so far.
Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - CT500MX500SSD1(Z) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.xPBb0HSAM8T
My friend owns the Crucial model and has told me good things about it.
Here is the Samsung model you’re looking for
Samsung 860 Evo 500GB 2.5 inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AbyPBbF2HH21P
The WD and Crucial models read and write faster than the Samsung model according to the info on Amazon. And they’re cheaper. WD also has a M.2 2280 version of the SSD which is easier to install IMO and it’s the same price.
For far more knowledge I'll direct you to /r/buildapc. There's a lot of factors that go into it. But generally the biggest thing to consider is going to be method of interface with your mother board. I say this because there's basically 3 and each comes at a different price point:
Less expensive than PCIe. High end ones use PCIe. Lower end ones use SATA3. It's much smaller and is what most decent laptops would use these days. Honestly I'm hoping for PCIe M.2 in next gen consoles. Example
Also worth noting that IIRC the PS4 Pro uses SATA3 but the OG PS4 uses SATA2. Mechanical hard drives aren't going to be bottlenecked by SATA2, but SSDs would very quickly.
Or 500GB for a few pennies more...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B073SBZ8YH/
Possibly this one...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9cF9AbAFFD6DZ
me too, totally convinced.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJS55D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it's lit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RJS55D/ref=psdcmw_1292116011_t1_B07P1Y853M =
Chinese SSD are cheaper than hard disk.
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RJS55D/ref=pd_gwm_simh_0?pf_rd_p=f9ea941c-301a-45bf-9233-50adcf132422&pf_rd_s=grid-14&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile-unrec&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&pd_rd_wg=zsgcy&pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&pd_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&pf_rd_p=f9ea941c-301a-45bf-9233-50adcf132422&pd_rd_w=z4isw&pd_rd_i=B075RJS55D
Enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=pd_gwm_simh_0?pf_rd_p=fc67834d-1a4e-443d-a4d4-b4f1372fb3cf&pf_rd_s=grid-15&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile-unrec&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&pd_rd_wg=zsgcy&pf_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&pd_rd_r=CH9KA40STEAABKDPV6BC&pf_rd_p=fc67834d-1a4e-443d-a4d4-b4f1372fb3cf&pd_rd_w=RJv6E&pd_rd_i=B00OJ3UJ2S
me too, totally convinced.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJS55D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Note: we use affiliate links, it doesn't add anything to your price but it does mean that if you buy these parts through the links below, it helps us out!
**
So about as close as I can get to that sort of price, giving you more performance for your money (just by building yourself) is as follows:
Rather than a 6-core, 6-thread CPU in the your above build, we've gone instead for a 8-core, 16-thread CPU. This will give you far more performance for productivity and is one of the main keys with Adobe. The more CPU performance you can throw at it the better, so this is a bit of a no-brainer. AMD also provide a really good quality cooler in the box, so no need to get an extra one.
So we're very specifically jumping up here again to a lot more RAM (32GB) and it's a lot faster too. Again, this is a must with Adobe as when it renders video it'll dump the files through the RAM, so the more you have the better. Plus having this much helps with caching in general as well as overall multitasking performance.
Pretty much comes singing and dancing. However, when you purchase, make sure this has the recent BIOS update for the newer CPU you're buying. Newegg support are usually good for confirming this before your purchase just through their chat service, so if you ask them if this item of stock has the update to use the above linked CPU, they'll confirm that for you. (99% of new stock out there has had updated BIOS already now, so it's not really an issue, yet it's always worth double checking).
This part we can leave the same really. Adobe isn't super GPU intensive, preferring CPU over anything else, so this is powerful enough for anything your camera can chuck out. If you ever feel like doing a LOT more color grading, 3D animation work down the line, then this is the part you'd need to look at upgrading to something a bit more powerful. Yet until then, this is perfectly fine.
A large traditional storage as believe you me, you'll end up using it once you've finished with projects. Only use this for storage of files after you're done with them as well as installing your software onto this. This drive gives you double what you had in the above build alone, so it's more to fill up ;)
This is your "work" drive. So when you're working on video, store it on this. When you're saving your projects, save it on this. When you're doing the initial render (before storing it) do it onto this. This has a 1800MB/s read and write speed, so while budget is a bit of an issue we're going with a larger drive so you can use it for a lot of purposes. You'll eventually find your bigger upgrade here is having multiple M.2 drives rather than just 1, so you can run them in RAID for even better performance and data security but as that'd normally be in a much bigger build than the budget, this is plenty for now and gives far more fast storage than the original build.
An improved power supply to provide more overheads and power protection against things like surges and sudden power loss. Also fully modular, so it's again really easy to build with.
I'm more than a little impartial with this case as my current gaming build is in this but it's such a nice sleek looking case for everything.
Last piece of the puzzle. This just comes on USB so once you've built the PC, you just plug this into one of the USB ports on the front of the case and your system will go through the installation for you. Nice and simple :)
Total Price: $1262.92
That's about as good as I can do at first glance. The thing about PC building yourself is that it's very customization friendly! So although I've given this build, you could probably post in other places and get slightly different answers. Main thing is the CPU, RAM and giving you enough storage.
They're $123 on amazon right now. Just fyi. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jGe1DbCY8XDJB
I am using a Mid 2015 MBP, currently have 16GB of RAM in it (max it supports) and I just upgraded the SSD to a 1TB drive using the following two items :
ADATA XPG SX8200 SSD 1TB
SinTech nVME SSD adapter
I did buy this to put the current SSD in and to transfer data from.
NVME SSD Enclosure
​
About $185 total out the door.
The sx8200 pro is still $220 no tax
Or
WD Black 1TB for $199.99 from Canada Computers
This is a way better option: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sabrent+rocket+512&qid=1569342867&s=electronics&sr=1-3
Based on Toshiba’s BiCS 3D TLC NAND Flash memory, its read speeds performance speeds can reach up to 3450 MB/s. 512GB for $59
Looks good. IF you had not already ordered the video card, I would have recommended getting an 8gb version instead but if you got a good price its ok. Your motherboard has an M.2 slot, so I would get an M.2 drive like this Sabrent Rocket for the same price instead.
Main differences are controller and memory type. Memory types are SLC, MLC, TLC, and QLC, from most expensive to least expensive. This video explains it pretty decently, but it doesn't mention QLC. It's the same principle, just Quad-level, so one more than TLC. Slightly less reliable but a lot cheaper. If you're doing a budget build it's cheaper and plenty decent for most people, so something like the Intel 660p is a great deal.
​
If you want something with slightly better performance, longevity, and potential reliability for about the same price, the Sabrent Rocket is fantastic in terms of price/performance. Highly recommend it for most builds. Same controller and memory chips as the Corsair MP510, but a lot cheaper.
I price match Amazon's price of the 1TB 860 Evo M.2 to get that same price on B&H's 1TB 860 Evo M.2 to avoid paying the sales tax that I would with Amazon.
It would come out to $138.55 on Amazon after taxes for me in California, and with B&H it's just $127.99 so it saves me $10.56.
For those who prefer the Samsung 860 EVO 1TB M.2 SATA Internal SSD (MZ-N6E1T0BW) Amazon and Newegg both currently have it for $289.99USD including Far Cry 5 code. Not much of a deal but I have it sitting in both carts hoping the price drops. WRT the code Amazon mentions: " Valid 3/4/2018 - 4/28/2018, while supplies last"
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820147678
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07822Z77M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
recheck everywhere before posting it on Reddit don't make it quora: https://www.amazon.in/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2-5-inch-SSD/dp/B0786QNS9B/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=500gb+ssd+crucial&qid=1557553252&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Those specs are sub-par at best, and an absolute scam at worst. 8GB of RAM and 1TB of HDD for a $1700 machine?! There should be at least 16GB and an SSD for the OS at that price point.
In just 5 minutes I threw together an equivalent PC on Amazon for about half the price ($890: mobo, ram, gpu, cpu, hdd, display, mouse + keyboard, case.
Now how about you take a look at a PC with a similar price point? ($1680 : mobo, ram, gpu, cpu, ssd, hdd, same display, same mouse + keyboard, same case)
1
2
[3] (https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP001TBSS3A55S25/dp/B07B4G19X3/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=1tb+ssd&qid=1555854824&s=gateway&sr=8-6)
I am a prime member so it could make a difference.
One of the drives based off the reference phison E12 design like sabrent rocket or silicon power p34a80
TLC nand (not qlc like 660)
Sabrent 1TB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-1TB)
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07LGF54XR
P34a80
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGF54XR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.pnwDbJCNHQN8
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Gen3x4-000MB-SU001TBP34A80M28AB/dp/B07L6GF81L
I am looking to get a SSD. Is it really worth the extra money to get this over this? I do have a X570 board and am using my PC for gaming/streaming https://www.amazon.com/Inland-Premium-M-2-2280-Internal/dp/B07RCM6DXK
I've bought both the Samsung 840 and 850 evo cards and both work great. Amazon seems to have the 500gb version 43% off right now so that might be worth something.
I have this one. 1TB Samsung Evo.
Is it overkill? Probably. I only use like 250GB. I just like not having to run out of space. Is it pricey? You bet it is. (Mayor White. Vote for me!). It was $550 when I got it. Worth every penny. Just make sure to apply the latest firmware, and install Trim Enabler. Awesome drive.
This isn't that bad for a 1TB SSD
It uses a standard 2.5" HDD. You can easily swap it out for a 2.5" SSD. Amazon currently has a 1TB SSD for $250.
Personally, I'd go with a NUC. I'm also in security and am buying this:
My reasons:
No. That M.2 drive is SATA. If you wanted a faster one, you would need to get an NVMe PCIe M.2 drive, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M
That being said, unless you're doing a lot of massive file transfers you'll never notice a difference. Like for gaming, there is really no advantage to having a PCIe NVMe M.2 SSD over a SATA SSD.
For those speeds the cost is not too bad really, sauce
Is £69 a good price for a 500GB SSD? this is one part that I've never looked into.
Yeah I just searched 500GB SSD on amazon and found another for £63 and a 480GB SSD for £55, this price doesn't seem special, is there something I'm missing?
You can get cheaper SSD via AMAZON. HEll you can get a 500 GB
Sandisk 480GB £109
Kingspec 512 £99 - Just as fast as the samsung
Kingspun do 380GB & 256GB
16GB of RAM is the Minimum
If your Motherboard can use an NVME SDD then i can recommend the Samsung evo 960
You mean like this?
Total: ~385
The battery I got along with it was barely used at 21 cycles, but I wanted the 9-cell for college, so there's that. I also added in a quad core i7, but I don't think that's necessary.
First things first- a Solid State Drive(From now on referred to as SSD) is a storage device with relatively high speeds and lower potential storage capacity for the price, compared to a Hard Disc Drive(Now on referred to as HDD).
You’re generally not going to need an SSD for most games, as the speed of storage isn’t really dependant on your storage. Most data used by programs is loaded into RAM, which is much faster. The only benefits are cases where you may have a game with long loading times because there’s a lot of content to load into the RAM. This is fine though, sometimes it’s nice to have those short loading times for multiplayer games. In actuality, it’s best to have an SSD for operating system storage, so instead of a computer taking a few minutes to start up, it only takes a few seconds.
There are two product types of SSD you can purchase, and two form factors (sizes) you can purchase. If you can update with which case and motherboard you have(and also any other storage that’s coming with the computer, I could have a better idea of what you have to work with, however you’re probably looking for something along the lines of SATA, 2.5” and around 500gb. This is a good option if you have one(or more) HDDs to store pictures, videos, documents, etc.
If you don’t have other storage devices, a 1tb equivalent would be preferable. Alternatively, you could purchase the 500gb SSD and some HDDs to back it up. Or even go a bit further and only purchase a 250gb SSD to hold ONLY your OS and a couple other things.
In terms of price, keep in mind that price for digital storage(SSD) has dropped significantly in the last year, and is forecasted to drop another 10% this year possibly.
TL;DR: Search “500gb SATA 2.5 SSD” online and buy anything from Samsung, Western Digital, Crucial or ADATA.
Hope this helps!
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
They're all over Amazon.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB - $168
Crucial MX500 1TB - $160
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB - $150
SanDisk 1TB Ultra - $160
Its $360 on Amazon, Great Device.
If you want to keep the HDD in it, you could get a m.2 SSD. The Samsung 850 Evo m.2 SSD is a decent, but inexpensive model. Just be careful with upgrade your Acer Aspire Nitro. You need to lift the keyboard to access the m.2 SSD slot. The keyboard is connected through three cables to the motherboard, which you have to unplug.
Take a look at Intel's NUC
Here's one with the same CPU in your build. You will need ram and an m.2 SSD a bit more expensive but will be much easier to maintain
I am a current Junior in Civil Engineering, and I recently went and upgraded my senior year of HS/Freshman year of college computer to this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PYZ0J6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This was a laptop I chose for a multitude of reasons: high performance, low cost, easy to upgrade (Youtube links on this laptop specifically detailing how to upgrade compliment the manufacturers on how well-thought-out the design was), good battery life (this is on the low/middle gaming laptop spectrum, and because of this has good battery life), and overall nice looking design. For me I needed a laptop that could run the graphic intensive software that Civil Engineering students use in their upper division classes, while also being able to game on it - in college, from my experience, computer gaming is the most popular. All of the links below are upgrades that go with the laptop well. They are not needed but, they are helpful and relatively cheap. If you have any questions feel free to ask by PM.
RAM upgrade:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG8X9Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SSD:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TGIVZTW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cooling fan (optional):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NNMB3KS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use a NUC6i5SYK (with the latest BIOS) with 16GB of Kingston Technology HyperX Impact RAM (HX421S13IBK2/16) and a Samsung 850 EVO - 250GB - M.2 for storage (N5E250BW).
It's running Linux Mint 18.
I did have one problem with crashing when moving between dual monitors, but upgrading the kernel to 4.8.0-32 completely fixed it.
I love it as a development machine and use NetBeans, RabbitVCS, MySQL/Workbench, Sublime Text or NotePad++ in Wine, Remnina, iReports, Thunderbird, FileZilla, TeamViewer, Pidgin, LibreOffice, VirtualBox, Meld, and others daily.
I was super hesitant because the Skylake NUCs had big problems when they first came out, but forum complaints seemed to die down after the latest couple of BIOS updates, so I took the plunge. So far very happy.
There isn't much performance upgrade if you get a SATA based M.2, which are comprably priced to standard SATA 2.5" SSDs. PCIe NVME based M.2s are much faster and much more expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M
For the love of God, if you have a $5k budget you shouldn't even be considering an HDD. Get 1 or 2 TB of SSD storage.
I recommend at very least getting this as an OS/Boot drive:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474296366&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+950+pro+m.2
Also, you could probably afford SLI Titan X's (Pascal) with a 1000W PSU. I recommend doing that.
I saw this yesterday but im not sure about the quality
You can also buy the ADATA SU800 512GB 3D-NAND on Amazon for $136.69+tax (old promo) but "1 to 2 months" shipping too: https://www.amazon.com/ADATA-SU800-512GB-3D-NAND-ASU800SS-512GT-C/dp/B01K8A29CS/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501023092&sr=1-9&keywords=ssd&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027459011
The Sandisk Ultra II 480gb for 137.99 (third party seller): https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_4_olp?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501023092&sr=1-4&keywords=ssd
I need a SSD but im still not sure if im going to buy a 500gb or 250gb +hdd
Amazon is having a sale too in the US!
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-PLUS-Solid-State-Drive/dp/B01F9G46Q8
~$100 Off
A PS4 Pro has a SATA 3 connection (I still chose to utilize my SSD as external) and I definitely see more than a 10% decrease in load times. Final Fantasy 15 load times are about half what they were before.
Here's what I went with.
SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB Solid State Drive (SDSSDA-480G-G26) [Newest Version] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6wkdmjmmpCaHK
replace the case with one which can take radiators such as this, get a couple of sticks of 8gb ddr3 ram like these get a good aio cooler like this and get an ssd for boot drive like this all of these examples come to $469.93 and out of those a 120gb ssd would still cause a big speed increase and even a decent air cooler would improve the temps situtation.
Hope this helps
I did something similar recently:
$318 plus tax - I'm running nodes for half a dozen cryptocurrencies on it.
Better value than the SanDisk SSD PLUS 480g?
Most of the times I find small computer parts cheaper in Al Ain Center than US, just last month I got this SSD for 310 AED.
Looks like a really good build. I will put part links in the end of the post. Here's some tips to save a bit of money if you're open to it:
TL;DR: cut back on PSU efficiency ratings, look for different 16GB or even 8GB RAM kits, ditch CPU cooler (or keep if you want), get an RX 480 for saving money on future monitors, you can also put another RX 480 in your build in the future with a different motherboard; an ATX motherboard would fill your case and add capability for a second RX 480, a non-Samsung SSD could save you some money, while for $100, you can get an SSD and a 1TB hard drive.
Links:
“Basic” EVGA 550W
Rosewill Hive-550
EVGA 600B
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO LED
RX 480 -choose which one you like
Asus B150-PLUS
Crucial MX 300 275GB
SanDisk Z400S 256GB
WD Blue 1TB
I hope my advice helped you and that this didn't overwhelm you. If you save enough money, you could throw in a red LED PWM fan, which adjusts its speed based on your computer's needs. You could maybe even throw in an LED strip or two. I had a lot of fun making this, thanks for posting :D
SSD prices continue to drop... Black Friday could be interesting.
Team Group should be reputable but you may also want to consider the WD Blue for $179.99. You can get it on Amazon as well (Prime Only).
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820250088https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX
Edit: Just noticed the 480GB version of the Team Group SSD is $77.99:
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820331049
Spending $95 on a tiny ssd + hdd makes little sense at todays prices.
$115, Wd Blue 3d 1tb:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/
It's what I have as a good balance if cost/speed/size/reliability. No reason to be stuck with 2nd laggy hdd at 1tb.
The SSD I purchased (arrived yesterday! works like a charm) cost me about $60 total, here is a link to the drive and the enclosure I bought. Happy PUBGing!
You should still narrow down to M.2 NVMe or M.2 Sata. The M.2 NVMe is a bit faster and would be preferred. Google your laptop brand to be sure or make sure you can return otherwise. Once you have the new drive the tool Macrium Reflect is pretty good for duplicating your old drive on the new SSD drive. As far as choice:
NVMe: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-Plus-MZ-V7S1T0B/dp/B07MFZY2F2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=120R0HE0STQZ7&keywords=nvme+ssd+1tb&qid=1562116161&s=gateway&sprefix=NVMe+ssd%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-5
SATA: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-860-SATA-Internal-MZ-N6E1T0BW/dp/B07822Z77M/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=m.2+sata+ssd+1tb&qid=1562116204&s=gateway&sr=8-4
I'm 99% sure it's the NVMe, but you should confirm.
The m.2 form factor is available on Amazon for the same price.
(2.5inch was the same price a few days ago but went up a bit now iirc)
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB M.2 SATA Internal SSD (MZ-N6E1T0BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07822Z77M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Cjc9BbRBK54FZ
Amazon link for people like me :)
Seems to have Amazon Global Priority shipping. I'm thinking about having it shipped to Japan- literally $5.
Update: I went for it. $133 shipped.
Edit: It's available on Amazon for $2 cheaper, sorry for not specifying.
I googled "1TB m.2" and this was the first result.
Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB M.2 SATA Internal SSD (MZ-N6E1T0BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07822Z77M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UAe4CbKQ5EV3E
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB M.2 SATA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07822Z77M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This works fine with my friends 17 R3
Just a heads up that SSD prices seem to be dropping atm. The 1TB 860 Evo is under 170 now https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-860-SATA-Internal-MZ-N6E1T0BW/dp/B07822Z77M
Not sure if it's a permanent drop or if they might bounce back and you'd have better luck later, GLWS!
It's a dell inspiron. I got it specifically for its expandability because I already had an M.2 and ram that would fit it from a couple of older computers. As much as I wanted to grab a fancy razer or other "top tier" laptop, I couldn't justify the price. Another factor that drove me to this "type" of laptop was its build quality. I needed something that would be more durable than my previous laptops. I find myself being overly cautious with my electronics and even then sometimes they just don't stand the test of time. This laptop, however, I have zero complaints about. It's actually my most favorite laptop I've purchased, and it's not even remotely close to the most expensive. Disclaimer, I don't know how it performs without the M.2 or extra RAM since I installed them immediately, but I expect this laptop to last me for a while. Here's links to the laptop and M.2.
Laptop: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015PYZI8E/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
M.2 Drive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07822Z77M/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sorry for the wall of text lol.
I’m not Canadian, but I’ll try to help.
This PC is a great build with an awesome CPU and a decent GPU but lacks both an SSD and 16 gigs of RAM, both necessary for future-proofing. (The SSD is necessary now, but you can hold off with 8 gigs of ram) Sadly, I can’t find builds that are less than 1k CAD with anything similar or better than this with more RAM or an SSD.
I recommend getting a separate SSD like this. (You can always do the cheaper 250 gb variant for less money). I recommend this SSD because it is one of the fastest and comes with amazing Windows 10 cloning software. this guide is how I installed mine (just ignore the laptop specific parts like removing the battery. You can then order a SATA wire like this one to install your SSD. (If you don’t know where in the case you should put your SSD, just use 3M or double sided tape and tape it someone aesthetically pleasing on the bottom of the case.
The sata cables should be obvious where to install (on the right side of the motherboard, usually stacked on top of each other, slightly above or below the GPU), otherwise, you can look up your motherboard to find the SATA slots. Then just install the cloning software and follow the guide. When you need more RAM, look at the PCs ram slot and order another 8 gig stick (if there is only 1 stick of 8 gigs), otherwise, just order 16 gigs of any DDR4 ram you want. I’m sorry you need to do work to get a fully future proof machine, but remember this isn’t 100% needed, just highly recommended. (Plus you can save 100 bucks from your paycheck a few weeks from now for the SSD, you don’t need it the second u get ur pc. Good luck, let me know if you need any help!
P.S You don’t even need a big SSD, just something to hold Windows 10 and programs like Steam and Chrome. Big stuff like games can go on the HDD
Cough cough https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D998212/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07D998212&pd_rd_w=0ctEI&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=rqD9o&pf_rd_r=CDMWEZEKWNS9XPCCS61R&pd_rd_r=e8a6ea0e-d6fc-4db3-8071-7200b06cbd20&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTUhXTENFR1RCNjlKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODU0MjU1MjczMjBDOU9KTVpBUSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjYyODEwMlhPRUlGSUpUMUIzRiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= cough cough
You can get a TB for around the same price and a external case for 15 bucks
My one X got the error loop, I needed to reformat the drive so I just went ahead a got a 1TB for 107
SanDisk SSD PLUS 1TB Internal SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - SDSSDA-1T00-G26 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D998212/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QeKuDb1Z76RRM
For an Xbox or PS4 you don't need the highest end.
Ssd: 1tb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D998212/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hglWCb4JE43CJ
SSD
Case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JklWCbPKETZGN
I have 3 of these cases, I use a 480gb SSD on my oneX and I have a 240gb SSD for my wife's oneS.
Here's another to consider; SansDisk 1TB SSD, $108. Comes with 3 year warranty. Not sure if that is standard among SSD retailers, but just an FYI.I just picked mine up from the post office todayEdit: See qiz's comment and my reply below.
I love the build, but there's one thing I'd definitely change and one thing you might want to look into changing:
The Hyper 212 Evo is a decent cooler, but I have some serious reservations that it can keep up with an HEDT processor, especially a 12-core. Nearly any AIO water cooler will do a better job, but this is the one I use on my 9900K.
The "maybe" change is much more straightforward: For the price, your 860 Evo is a good SSD, but you could have much faster storage for the same price by going with something like a 660p NVMe. This would also help offset some of the change in price to get an AIO water cooler.
Other than that, this is an excellent build! It's basically the HEDT version of my 9900K/Z390 Taichi Ultimate/RTX 2080 Ti build called KAIOKENxTEN, which I use for gaming and video editing. You won't be disappointed.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=mx500&qid=1574969509&sr=8-8
​
This is better, its TLC, and it has a DRAM cache too. Much better than the QVO
https://smile.amazon.de/Blue-interne-Festplatte-Lese-Schreibgeschwindigkeit/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=3RAYJBX3XR6XJ&keywords=500gb+ssd&qid=1562963585&s=gateway&sprefix=500+gb+%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-5
Solid State Drive, it is many times faster than your hdd, (Hard Disk Drive), and it WILL make your computer feel many times faster.
Edit: Your motherboard doesn't have a M.2 slot, so you will have to get a Sata SSD (Such as the WD Blue or the Samsung 860 Evo)
Edit 2: You could get a M.2 to PCIe adapter and a decent NVMe SSD (Such as the Intel 660p), this is by far the best option.
Your budget is going to determine which SSDs we can recommend. Asking which is the "best" is a very broad question.
​
Best? or like would be a fine upgrade for your use case? You see. A lot of this is going to depend on
​
It is compatible as far as I can see. Personally, I use this one https://www.amazon.in/500GB-2-5-inch-Internal-Solid-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=pd_sbs_147_2/261-0154709-7518766?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073SBZ8YH&pd_rd_r=797c12fb-5d76-4c0f-89b3-d3fee504cbb7&pd_rd_w=CQ1yC&pd_rd_wg=7DSXf&pf_rd_p=87667aae-831c-4952-ab47-0ae2a4d747da&pf_rd_r=TYAF4HG35F8EJ9TSJ16E&psc=1&refRID=TYAF4HG35F8EJ9TSJ16E
There's no difference in price between a SATA SSD and a non-NVME M.2 SSD. An NVME M.2 SSD is a different story though.
Edit: They edited their comment to include nvme after I replied
I will always prefer Western Digital as I have never had any of their drives fail.
still crazy affordable
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550017655&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=500gb+ssd&dpPl=1&dpID=41ZbeXqUbrL&ref=plSrch
Mods delete if not aloud. I ordered a WD 500GB SSD from Amazon.ca and to my pleasant surprise received a 1TB. Amazon slapped the wrong UPC on the 1TBs as seen in the photo. Try ordering one and if it’s a 500GB just return it.
Edit: fixed link.
There is definitely a way to cut corners even further while getting higher performance at the same time. Especially since you don't mind going used.
PC: This $200 Dell Optiplex. It comes with an i7 2600 (4 cores 8 threads), 8GB of RAM, a 500GB HDD, and Windows 10 Pro.
GPU: This $226 Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti.
Total: $426 ($496 if with monitor below)
This is much better bang for your buck and it will definitely work without issue. The CPU is still very strong and goes toe to toe with present-day ones. The GPU is a little better as well and has 2GB more vram, and the stock PSU is more than enough to handle it (if unsure, get a 450W bronze). Consider getting a GTX 1060 6GB for roughly twice the general performance (if getting the GTX 1060 consider settling for a nice 500W bronze or a higher wattage/rating if you plan on overclocking later).
Please also consider getting an SSD to clone the OS on your hard drive to it (here's a Silicon Power 256GB for $65). You can even fit in a cheaper monitor with 1080p, 60Hz, and IPS if you want to. This one's on sale for $70 at Best Buy.
You can also consider getting this $370 GTX 1060 6GB.
Comparison between GTX 1050 Ti and GTX 1060 6GB.
New Total (if GTX 1060 6GB added, along with monitor): $640
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND With R/W Up To 550/450MB/s A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QNn2AbFXZK9X0
I took a gamble on this one and it works perfectly.
1TB is overkill. This is the cheapest option.
256gb SSD
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xid8Bb43QBJW7
Case you need to install it
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cld8Bb7RJJNAJ
If you insist on getting 1TB (still need case)
Silicon Power 1TB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP001TBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4G19X3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mrd8BbVSPCCQ7
38$ for a 256gb silicon power sata 3 drive. This is not expensive.
If you want to go cheap...$29.99
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=ssd&qid=1555536783&s=gateway&sr=8-13
Also need an enclosure, $8.99:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3ETX6BEBDH1ZB&keywords=ssd+enclosure&qid=1555536860&s=gateway&sprefix=ssd+enc%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-4
This + This Should work fine and fall within your price range @ $65usd.
I'd go with a 240GB SSD.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/?tag=pcpapi-20
120GB is enough for the OS, programs and a few games.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ4F9ZA/?tag=pcpapi-20
The 240GB is $48 more and you can fit around 10 more games on it. If you've played a game like Batman: Arkham Origins on both an SSD and a hard drive, you can see a big difference. It's much smoother.
A 250GB Samsung EVO
The EVO is the most popular SSD right now, striking a perfect balance between price, speed, and reliability. A cheaper option is a Crucial M500 which is still pretty good, but not as fast.
EDIT: Btw these are $10-$20 cheaper on Amazon, which is why I linked there, sorry.
This monitor if you don't need DVI: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-monitor-vn248h
The M500 is $110 over at Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A).
The FX-6300 is $110 over at Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O7YORK)
This is a better GPU for the $100 price range: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202081
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A
This ssd is just as good and $20 less, you are seriously overpaying for yours. If you want to stick with the 840 evo I suggest lurking in /r/buildapc sales because it goes on sale for $70 every other week
Non-mobile link: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A
Also available on Amazon for $105.98 with free shipping.
If you want a nice display, the best display around is in the Acer Aspire V7-482PG.
It has an i5-4200U, 8GB RAM, 500GB HDD, Nvidia GT 750M graphics, and a beautiful 14" 1920x1080 IPS touch display.
It only weighs 4.4lbs and can get up to 8 hours of battery given the right conditions.
It's a great student laptop that has the backlit keyboard you're looking for and everything else, but no SSD. You have enough money left in the budget to upgrade the current HDD to a Crucial M500 SSD without going over budget.
You could even get an external enclosure to put the old hard drive in so you can just use it as an external hard drive. It'd also make the SSD install easier.
Me too. Not because I want one, my 360 is fine since I dont play console games much anyways. I'd like to flip that tater and grab this bad boy
1TB, only $450 USD.
I have one and I will never buy a platter again.
Edit: look at that ratings curve! 3% of the ratings are less than 4 stars.
It's $350 on Amazon with prime fyi.
www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W16OU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_awbEub19QH078
Remember you must select Amazon as the seller! Drives avalible in this promotion (prices before cashback):
1TB drive @ £359.48
750GB drive @ £279.59
512GB @ £290.66
500GB drive @ £199.54
Edit: Note that cash back price depends on drive selected.
The Crucial MX100 is the newest version and is $70. The Crucial M550 is slightly faster and is $85. CrisisOfConsonant we're not pushing the subject to be right. We just love you and want you to be happy.
128GB Version is also on sale for $62.99 (reg. 79.99)
SSDs will provide little to no performance difference in games aside from faster loading times. Of course this depends the game, some could benefit from an SSD but most will not. The SSD would make general performance of the operating system and applications far more responsive.
Your Mac Pro doesn't have USB 3.0, so unless you have an internal PCIe USB 3.0 card you wouldn't be able to use a USB 3.0 SSD. And that's assuming that you are really talking about a Mac Pro... you don't have a Macbook Pro, do you? As that can't use USB 3.0 at all. But either way I wouldn't recommend the one you found as it's not a very fast SSD. Good internal SSDs are not any more expensive than an external one, in fact external (of the same performance) is probably going to be more expensive.
I would suggest either this 128GB for $62 or this 256GB for $104. These are some of the best value SSDs you can get. Very fast, very reliable.
There isn't really a performance difference between an SSD on SATA III 6Gbps and USB 3.0. Even some of the fastest SSD won't saturate the bandwidth available on either. However for simplicity sake, it's a lot better to just boot off the SSD internally. You don't want to have to boot to USB 3.0 all the time.
this is what I have. 100pct reliable so far. http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426413174&sr=1-1&keywords=crucial+ssd+128gb
I've always used Crucial but the other big brands should be ok.
Crucial MX100 128GB SSD $67
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88
Go with the T460. The screen size is much better for programming. Get the FHD IPS screen.
You can find the RAM cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3L-12800-204-Pin-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y
Any laptop DDR3L will do. You chose the correct part, just not the best deal.
Check out this SSD (or go one size higher, partially paid for with the money you save on RAM :) ): https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-240G-G25/dp/B00M8ABEIM
Any 2.5" SATA SSD will do.
Don't pay Geek Squad. You'll be paying money just for someone to unscrew a few screws and insert a card into a slot, and another into another, then rescrew the screws.
Your T460 will have two RAM slots. Buy your 8GB stick, insert it with the 4GB, and you will have 12GB. Ignore people on /r/buildapc; you're not building a PC and they've somewhat confused or misled you. In this case you will have read about dual channel RAM, but it's negligible for your cases compared to the benefits of more RAM and/or upgradeability later (so I'm saying you should prefer one 8GB stick over 4+4 to enable upgrading later more easily, which outweighs dual-channel benefits that you won't notice). Plus, with 8+4, the matching 4GB of each can be in dual channel mode anyway.
> But since I dont know many things about PSUs or Motherboards I am not sure if the parts I picked will work.
They would.But a H170 is not a good choice currently. You save almost nothing on Z170 boards, which support Ocing and have more connectors. I recommend B150 boards instead.
> I also heared I should go that cheap on a PSU, but that one seemed to have a good rating.
It has, it is fine. The one in my list below is more efficient though.
> Also a friend of mine, can't buy the new 1080 because it wont fit in his tower.
A maximum length of 42 cm will work for all cards.
pc-kombo shared list
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 | EUR 189,00 @ Mindfactory
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H | EUR 73,90 @ Cyberport
Memory | Crucial CT8G4DFD8213 (8 GB) | EUR 26,01 @ Amazon.de
Storage | WD 2TB Blue (2 TB) | EUR 73,50 @ Amazon.de
SSD | SanDisk Ultra II 240 (256 GB) | EUR 65,99 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | GeForce GTX 970 | EUR 295,00 @ Amazon.de
Case | Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 | EUR 69,90 @ Cyberport
Power Supply | Super Flower Golden Green HX (450 W) | EUR 69,21 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €873.49
| Generated by pc-kombo 23.05.2016 |
My changes:
I'd say:
CPU - Ryzen 5 2600 for $129.30 on Amazon
RAM - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory for $65.99 on Amazon
GPU - Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB WINDFORCE OC for $279.99 on Amazon
Case - NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower for $69.99 on Amazon
PSU - Corsair CXM 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular for $57.96 on Amazon
Monitor - Sceptre C248B-144RN 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz for $154.99 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Sceptre-Edge-Less-FreeSync-DisplayPort-C248B-144RN/dp/B07MTMCNLX/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2N0O44FUFH3W9&keywords=sceptre+monitor&qid=1568701318&s=electronics&sprefix=sceptre+moni%2Celectronics%2C190&sr=1-2
Total = $758.22
Those things are what I would recommend whole-heartedly, but the Storage and MoBo depends on you:
Storage:
- HP EX900 500 GB for $52.99 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B2ZVJ5F/?tag=pcpapi-20
- Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB for $94.99 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/?tag=pcpapi-20
Motherboard
- If no overclock - ASRock B450M/AC (It has WiFi) for $74.99 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SY8CMTX/?tag=pcpapi-20
- If yes overclock - Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING for $119.99 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKTZC4M/?tag=pcpapi-20
​
Cheapest build I'd recommend is $758.22 + $52.99 + $74.99 = $886.20 but you have the option for a bit of extra storage and/or performance if you'd like.
How does something like the Intell 660p compare to this or the Silicon Power one? Seems like Intel would be fine for casual use, what is the usecase for these new brand ones?
Intel Solid State Drive (SSD), 660P Series, 1 TB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BnjQDbN0NTN7H
I’d save a bit of money and go with a b450 board unless you absolutely need the pcie 4.0. this MSI tomahawk is good or this Gaming pro Carbon if you want wifi built in. The other things I’d swap is your ssd for an intel 660p. It’s cheaper and faster.
As for a cooler, with the black theme you’ve got going a dark rock pro 4 would look pretty sweet in there, just check compatibility with your memory for clearance.
For you or anyone wondering here is the build list, I used storage and PSU from old build. Also bought an NVME M.2 SSD 1tb for 100$.
Build List
SSD
For less money, this Intel 660p is over twice as fast with the same storage space.
This build is not very tight in terms of getting your moneys worth, but it's not necessarily bad, just that I think you could do more with it. I would switch out the evo 970 with an ADATA XPG 8200: link
After that I would consider downgrading the motherboard a bit since 275 for a MOBO is ludicrous unless you're REALLY into overclocking. Typically the way I look at MOBO's currently is if they have Intel Lan over realtek, if they have built in wifi, and if they have 4 RAM DIMM slots, and they have good VRM heatsink they are a top end board, so anything after that is probably a waste.
Next up, the PSU is a waste of money, you don't need 850 watts. If you're looking for a gold rated PSU you should be able to find one for like 70-80 bucks if you keep an eye pealed for sales. If you're looking for a high-end 650 watt PSU I'd recommend the Seasonic Focus+ Platinum.
Lastly, that case is really unnecessarily expensive for seemingly no reason. I know RGB is big right now, but there are way more affordable RGB options that will be just as good. I'd recommend the coolermaster H500P or H500M, the thermaltake h500i, or the fractal design S2.
Like I said this isn't a bad build, but there's a lot of 'fat' that could be trimmed to either save money or make an upgrade to a 2080 ti.
A bit late to this thread, but here's a 1tb, one of the highest rated on the market competitive with Samsung's drives, for $130 after coupon. 3500/3000 speeds and maintains them. I would have linked the Sabrent Rocket, but those run hot I've heard.
There are many other cheaper alternatives with same performance 40% off the Samsung 970 EVO price point:
addlink S70 1TB:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7LRB2T?ref=myi_title_dp
adata Sx8000 1TB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1J3C23/
I'm quite happy with the two of these that I have in my PC now...
I bought mine two weeks ago, with the i7 and 16G of ram, if you get the 8G single stick you can upgrade later on. I upgraded my storage myself with an ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro which are significantly cheaper than Samsung EVO’s counterparts, in my case I wanted a 1TB nvme drive and the XPG was $163 compared to the +$335 upgrade cost of the similar Samsung nvme while also performing just as well or very close to Samsung nvmes in real world benchmarks so they are a good choice to consider if you’re trying to save a couple hundred bucks. Also, when i upgraded my storage on my own, not only did I save $172 but also got to keep the stock 240G ssd so that was a cool bonus.
Can't you get new ones for these prices?
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/?pldnSite=1
3600X is just 3600 overclocked, which you can do yourself, so not really worth it. I would look into Sabrent Rocket for your NVME (https://www.amazon.fr/Sabrent-interne-Rocket-performance-SB-ROCKET-512/dp/B07KGMBCKD/)
The HDD is perhaps the best bang for the buck HDD out there in the market. However, the SSD seems a little expensive for what it is. Seagate isn't the best company for SSDs. You can find a Samsung 970 Evo 500GB for $10 less and Samsung currently makes the best SSDs in the market. Other options include the Western Digital Black SN750 which you could easily find for the same price as the 970 Evo. If you want a cheaper alternative without sacrificing day-to-day performance, I would recommend the Intel 660p. It's a QLC SSD where there are 4 bits stored in each cell instead of TLC where there are 3 bits stored in each cell. This gives you lower performance but massively cheaper compared to TLC drives. Both the SN750 and 970 Evo are TLC drives therefore are more expensive than the 660p. This drop in performance is not noticeable at all if all you do is gaming, web browsing and the usual stuffs consumers use their laptops for. The Sabrent Rocket is also a great budget option for an NVMe drive. It's a TLC drive which you could find for as low as $70 for the 512 GB model.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-500GB-MZ-V7E500BW/dp/B07BN4NJ2J/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=samsung+970+evo+500gb&qid=1574009611&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-SN750-500GB-Internal-Gaming/dp/B07MH2P5ZD/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=western+digital+black+sn750+500gb&qid=1574009748&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-Solid-State-Drive/dp/B07GCCPD28/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=intel+660p+500gb&qid=1574009787&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=adata+nvme+ssd&qid=1574010159&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFDU04zNEdHNU5WV0QmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2MzcxODAxV0hSOEdRNFNIRVJaJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NDE1NzkzSFdYUDRJVDI4NEZUJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Hard to predict that but this is the lowest it has been on amazon.
http://camelcamelcamel.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-240G-G25/product/B00M8ABEIM?context=browse
Looks pretty good. A few things I'd advise
Get the 850 evo not the 840
Looks even cheaper on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS
Also if you live near enough microcenter to drive id recommend getting the *CPU and mobo there. It doesn't list it on pc part picker for some reason but it's even cheaper and they have a mobo combo deal
I would strongly advise waiting for a non founders edition gpu. The other ones have better clock speeds for cheaper and better cooling!
Again, your prices seem to be like 5 years old. You can easily find drives from respectable sources that are faaaar cheaper than that, even in large sizes. Like, here's a 500GB SSD that's going for $0.28 per GB. This is literally the first result on Amazon when I check for SSDs, it's not like I'm digging around for great rates or anything, and it's not even a discounted price. SSDs have gotten straight up cheap, the only reason to go mechanical is if you need particularly large sizes, but even 1TB SSDs are pretty damn cheap. Here's one (again, first result on Amazon, and Samsung is probably one of the best brands) that's $0.31 per GB.
If you want a source that they are common, how about this: When I look up all new laptops on Amazon, there are 3,743 available with a SSD, and only 3,426 without. The majority of new laptops have SSDs.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=twister_B00PRDMHLU?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
1tb samsung 850 evo.
Why are you using two SSDs? A single 1TB Evo is less expensive:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS
I'd say just go with a Samsung EVO 850. Anything "better" isn't worth it for this application, anything lesser quality isn't saving enough money to worry about it. Copy the data, encrypt it with BitLocker & a very complex key, and send it on its merry way. (Or vice versa since it's a new drive-- Turn on BL and then copy data)
EDIT: Changed link for our neighbors up north.
Unless you pay an arm and a leg.
Seriously, I paid less for my 970 GTX - when the 900 line was the newest line.
The 850 Evo is MLC and $315 on Amazon. Of course not NVMe, though.
/r/buildapcsales my friend, lots of great deals.
specifically: SSD 1TB $219.99 or Monitor 144Hz 1080p Freesync $169.99
In all seriousness, i'd recommend Silicon Power P34A80. Basically the same drive but cheaper on Amazon. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07L6GF81L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XklLDbYMD4SBN
Overall it is a decent deal but they still have the Silicon Power 1tb for $145. Not sure if it is tax free or not but it is an identical drive for the most part for 5 bucks less :)
https://www.amazon.ca/Silicon-Power-Gen3x4-000MB-SU001TBP34A80M28AB/dp/B07L6GF81L/ref=sr_1_3?crid=22LTPEF0BFFOY&keywords=silicon+power+nvme&qid=1573685627&sprefix=silicon+po%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-3
while that person did try to help, he is a bit out of touch with ssd prices..
sata ssds haven't gone down in pricing in a meaningful way for the past year, they are still around ~110$ for 1tb and samsung likes to charge their tax on top of that too..
instead, you can get nvme ssds such as this or this for the same price..
their performance and warranty is equivalent to a samsung 970 evo, if not better.. and are miles faster than a sata ssd...
RAM: while the one you picked is 3600mhz, it's running at cl18 the memory latency will be same versus a kit running at 3200/cl16 or 3000/cl15.
get these crucial ballistix sticks instead, you can overclock them way beyond their rated speeds (Search for E-Die overclocking on the web to see approximate results) make sure they have "AES" in the model name and you're 100% guaranteed to have E-Die sticks.
CPU Cooler: while noctua is great and all , i personally think the NH-U12S is a waste of money at that price point, just use the stock cooler that comes with your ryzen cpu for a while and save those 70$ towards a noctua nh-u12a or a Noctua NH-D15 (Comes in black variant too now).
Motherboard: can't really recommend one , but instead i urge you to to look at this am4 motherboard list here they all have their own pros and cons, nothing is perfect :^)
​
Personally i'd either pocket the money saved from those two changes, or upgrade the SSD to an M.2 1TB. This is an amazing deal on a 1TB NVMe drive: https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Gen3x4-000MB-SU001TBP34A80M28AB/dp/B07L6GF81L/
What's the difference between this one and the inland pro people recommend?
This one is better
https://www.amazon.com/Inland-Premium-M-2-2280-Internal/dp/B07RCM6DXK
not a deal, the Inland premium is 10$ more for double the speed, rated speeds are 3,100 read 1,900 MBps write
I don't like that Hitachi 2TB hard drive. Not that there's anything wrong with the drive, but $35 price point and the drive model is almost 7 years old is just odd with me. I wouldn't be surprised if the warranty is already expired and/or you're really getting a reconditioned drive. I would find another 1TB or 2TB elsewhere, maybe a Seagate Barracuda 2TB.
Also, I would opt for a larger NVME SSD, maybe a 512GB. That 120GB will not last long and you'll fill it up with apps and documents very quickly. Probably this Sabrent Rocket 512GB NVME is what I would get instead.
Everything else looks fine to me.
Edit spelling
Looks pretty solid man. Could save some money by going to a sabrent rocket ssd with the same storage and same read speeds. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=500gb+nvme+ssd&qid=1572218584&sr=8-9
Does have slightly less TBW then the samsung one.
Just goto amazon type in sabrent rocket.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1?crid=3U5PRGVJP9WZ9&keywords=sabrent%2Brocket&qid=1556298437&s=gateway&sprefix=sabrent%2Br&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&th=1&psc=1
They seem to be pretty exclusive, like not may vendors sell them yet. Not sure when the coupon drops but you could email them.
have you been to pcpartspicker.com?
You can start a build with that CPU and then select compatible parts based on price, reviews, and availability.
I just built a system based on the same CPU and motherboard. Here is the harddrive I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KGMBCKD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and the memory:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2Y1N8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and the power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077V57T7K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used an Inwin 301 case but I would not recommend it as the cable management is a little fiddly and the front panel has a giant LED plate that is not RGP controllable and can't be turned off or dimmed.
With your budget, you might look into getting him a 240mm all-in-one water cooler so he can plan with overclocking. Something like this would be sufficient:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hmBTwP/corsair-h100i-pro-750-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060033-ww
You can go for a different 1TB ssd and get pretty much the same performance for about $100
I have this one and for the most part you wouldn’t be able to see any difference between it and the 970 EVO
Silicon Power 1TB NVMe PCIe... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6GF81L?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Nah the psu is perfectly fine. Don’t think they’ll be going for a 2080 TI plus you won’t find any sfx with a higher wattage than 600 (Corsair has one for 750w) but it’s expensive. I have a similar set up except the 600w Gold rated on a gtx 980 and an i7-9700k, nearly identical set up
You’re spot on about the m.2.
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280 - WDS100T2B0B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ph4lDbW120T9Z
This one is good though not NvMe fast speeds,
The one OP has is solid and it’s on sale $150 isn’t bad for an NvMe 1tb but here are ones a little cheaper
Silicon Power 1TB NVMe PCIe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 TLC R/W up to 3,400/3,000MB/s SSD (SU001TBP34A80M28AB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6GF81L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tj4lDb7HY225A
Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1j4lDb9MCJZFM
Kingston Digital SA1000M8/960G A1000 960GB PCIe NVMe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C8NNQ4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ml4lDb73E6M6P
Silicon Power 1TB NVMe PCIe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 TLC R/W up to 3,400/3,000MB/s SSD (SU001TBP34A80M28AB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6GF81L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QdBDDb1SWPSFR
Sabrent 1TB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-1TB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGF54XR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3eBDDbSV29VT5
Inland Premium 1TB SSD 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCM6DXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mfBDDbBJH08J2
I wanna get a m.2 drive, but there are so many companies that I've never heard of. I want to get the Samsung 970 EVO, but that thing is so expensive compared to M.2 SSDs from Addlink, Sabrent and Silicon Power. The thing is, I've never heard of these companies so it makes me wary to buy these SSDs, especially since I'm planning on making it my boot drive. Do I have anything to worry about? Are these SSDs just as good as the Samsung 970 EVO? Does any one have experience with any of these M.2 drives?
This sub seems to really like the Silicon Power and Adata XPG drives.
Silicon power drive: https://www.amazon.ca/Silicon-Power-Gen3x4-000MB-SU001TBP34A80M28AB/dp/B07L6GF81L/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=silicon+power&qid=1570404563&sr=8-3
RYZEN 9 3900x - 500$ (Buy during black friday)
EVGA CLC 280 RGB AIO - 120$ https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL28-V1/dp/B01N16CAKN/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3KFMQAYA4JE4A&keywords=evga+clc+280&qid=1574448319&sprefix=evga+clc+%2Caps%2C337&sr=8-1
ASUS TUF X570 PLUS - 165$/180$ for wifi model
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-TUF-X570-Plus-Motherboard-Lighting/dp/B07SXFK1TP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=asus+x570+tuf&qid=1574448349&sr=8-3
Ram - https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Trident-PC4-28800-CL16-19-19-39-F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC/dp/B07WTS8T2W/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3FPVFXR2JGMCD&keywords=tridentz+neo+3600&qid=1574449500&sprefix=tridentz+n%2Caps%2C322&sr=8-1 170$
SSD - https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Gen3x4-000MB-SU001TBP34A80M28AB/dp/B07L6GF81L/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=nvme+ssd+1tb&qid=1574448235&sr=8-9 (Silicon power nvme ssd) 100$
HDD - 4TB toshiba https://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Performance-Desktop-Internal-HDWE140XZSTA/dp/B013JPKUU2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=31GDEEBSDSQ2M&keywords=4tb+hard+drive+7200rpm&qid=1574448286&sprefix=4tb+hard+drive+7%2Caps%2C335&sr=8-4 100$
Case:- https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Airflow-Tempered-Mid-Tower-Gaming/dp/B07VL5QHMB/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=pc+case&qid=1574448402&sr=8-18 70$
the NZXT h510 is great too (h510 is the newer revision of h500)
GPU:- https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Windforce-Gv-N208SGAMING-OC-8GC-REV2-0/dp/B07ZK765CT/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=rtx+2080+super&qid=1574448489&sr=8-6 (RTX 2080 Super) 720$
PSU:- The supernova G3 is an excellent choice, another option would be
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM850x-Certified-Modular-Supply/dp/B079H5WNXN/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3AFBMG43D25WO&keywords=corsair+rm850x&qid=1574449395&sprefix=corsair+rm%2Caps%2C334&sr=8-1
130$
TILL NOW THE TOTAL COMES TO 2075$
GOOD RGB CASE FANS:- https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Intelligent-Addressable-Motherboard-Adjustable/dp/B07HK7YRCD/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=rgb+fans&qid=1574449647&sr=8-8 40$ for 6 fans
PSU CABLE EXTENSION KIT:- https://www.amazon.com/Asiahorse-Customization-Sleeve-Extension-Supply/dp/B07K2RWKFK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1V86POI5IYK2A&keywords=psu%2Bcable%2Bextension%2Bkit&qid=1574449801&sprefix=psu%2Bcable%2Bex%2Caps%2C323&sr=8-3&th=1 33$
Now the total cost is 2150$
You still have 550$ remaining in your budget
1440p 144hz Monitor -
https://www.amazon.com/LG-32GK650F-B-Monitor-FreeSync-Technology/dp/B07FLGR2PN/ref=sr_1_1?crid=OXCWIJC16OTW&keywords=lg+32gk650f-b&qid=1574449918&sprefix=lg+32g%2Caps%2C325&sr=8-1 350$ (32inch)
https://www.amazon.com/AOC-CQ27G1-DisplayPort-Adjustable-Zero-Bright/dp/B07V39QHMY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2BPLX467DAZIF&keywords=1440p%2B144hz%2Bmonitor&qid=1574449935&sprefix=1440p%2B144h%2Caps%2C326&sr=8-4&th=1 250$ (27inch)
https://www.amazon.com/GN27DB-27-Inch-Monitor-FreeSync-GamePlus/dp/B078P57ZWL/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2BPLX467DAZIF&keywords=1440p+144hz+monitor&qid=1574449935&sprefix=1440p+144h%2Caps%2C326&sr=8-8 230$ (27inch)
Peripherals
Logitech G PRO (Keyboard and Mouse)
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Gaming-Esports-Performance/dp/B07TRM5RWW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=logitech%2Bgpro&qid=1574450153&sr=8-1&th=1
RGB Extended Mouse Pad
https://www.amazon.com/LUXCOMS-Oversized-Extended-%EF%BC%8CNon-Slip-Mat%EF%BC%8C31-5X/dp/B07GSXJZSV/ref=sr_1_11?crid=O07YJ5854AQ4&keywords=extended+mouse+pad&qid=1574450282&sprefix=extended+m%2Caps%2C332&sr=8-11 22$
Corsair Mouse pad
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-MM300-Anti-Fray-High-Performance-CH-9000108-WW/dp/B01798VS4C/ref=sr_1_6?crid=O07YJ5854AQ4&keywords=extended+mouse+pad&qid=1574450345&sprefix=extended+m%2Caps%2C332&sr=8-6 25$
Hyper X cloud 2 headset
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCP-GM/dp/B00SAYCVTQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=JNBQ0F0YHBO4&keywords=hyperx+cloud+2&qid=1574450452&sprefix=hyper+x+%2Caps%2C331&sr=8-4 85$
Razer Krakken Headset
https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Kraken-Gaming-Headset-2019/dp/B07N85FY1G/ref=sr_1_9?crid=MHRZZUHTUKRA&keywords=gaming%2Bheadset&qid=1574450511&sprefix=gaming%2Bheads%2Caps%2C330&sr=8-9&th=1 60$
I would trade out your motherboard for something like this Asrock for the far better BIOS and onboard ac wifi (even though it looks like you already have a wifi card). It will also let you overclock the 7700k if you ever want to. I would also drop the sound card unless you're using pricier sound equipment
You might also want think about if the difference in speed between the Intel 660p drive and a drive with the Phison e12 controller like this Silicon Power drive would be worth it in your use case
Otherwise, the build looks good for your specific needs (BSD support, CAD). The case is somewhat gigantic, so make sure you're happy with the size
Here's the one that I literally just ordered yesterday after a lot of research: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L6GF81L
Ordered one of these from Amazon and should be getting it next week. Will report back.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L6GF81L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's just because you linked to your user saved list, the new link is fine.
The X570 pairs well with a high-performance NVMe drive. There is a decent selection of great drives right now. Since you mentioned budget I figured you'd want the best value in that segment. That would be the Sabrent Rocket, although there are other drives that share its hardware like the Silicon Power P34A80 or Addlink S70. The Rocket is the cheapest but you might trust one of the other two brands more (although I'd consider them all around the same quality). This assuming you're looking for 1TB.
It's possible to get the QLC-based Intel 660p or Crucial P1 for cheaper at 1TB and for most things they'll be just as fast. Their performance is not as consistent especially when fuller, however, due to the nature of QLC. They are an excellent value so you may want to consider that - Linus Tech Tips has a video on the 660p (the P1 has the same hardware, more or less). Alternatively there are SM2262/EN drives like the EX920 but this drive is aging a bit and at equal price I'd probably take one of the drives linked above. HP's support is suspect as well.
If you decide to go with the Rocket, be sure to check out Sabrent's site: they have a utility for formatting the drive if required (only needed if you are going to clone the OS to the new drive, and maybe not even then) and you have to register the drive to get the full five-year warranty.
Hey, AMD and Nvidia are releasing new parts soon / very soon. Nvidia just released parts yesterday and AMD will on the ninth. I'd recommend waiting. Still, I can give q few suggestions before then.
Firstly, I'd recommend an Inland Premium SSD. For competive FPS, you're only getting slightly slower read/write (not noticable in your scneario.) At the same time, this drive has double the capacity.
Here is a link :
https://www.amazon.com/Inland-Premium-M-2-2280-Internal/dp/B07RCM6DXK/ref=asc_df_B07RCM6DXK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343224652930&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3989423249701682235&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010969&hvtargid=pla-759967822529&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=71764766791&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343224652930&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3989423249701682235&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010969&hvtargid=pla-759967822529
Next, I'd get the Nvidia 2060 Super. It is the same price as the card in your system, but the 2060S will preform about 20% better. Alternatively, you could wait until the 9th to see AMD's launch, although I personally doubt they will launch any exciting GPUs. Next, for the CPU. I'd drop that 9400F and instead get a R5 3600 when it launches. This will allow you to drop the Hyper 212 as the 3600 comes with a surprisingly decent cooler. The R5 3600 has 2 more cores and 4 more threads. Additionally, the 3600 is overclockable and comes with a higher base/boost speed at stock (that part is more important in your usecase than the extra cores and threads.) Due to the change in CPU, you will need a different motherboard. You won't be able to save much money there as X570 motherboards will be expensive. It'll be around the same price. Next, for the PSU and Case. I'd actually recommend that case, like.. alot. Good choice with the PSU also, although both the case and PSU are overpriced in the current build. You should be able to save about $40 when it is closer to time for you to build. Lastly, the RAM good - but also overpriced by about $10. You can get something just as good for a bit cheaper. I can recommend closer to time.
I can also recommend some peripherals (these are the monitor, keyboard, mouse, etc.) Firstly, the most important part is I'd recommend the Glorious Model O. It is such a fantastic mouse for it's price. Next, for the keyboard (this is an unusual one) I'd get a Glorious GMMK with Gateron Red switches and the Aura Keycap set. Alot of the mainstream boards use Cherry switches, which are not the "cream of the crop" there are many switches that are much better. Corsair, IMO makes bad keyboards as they are extremely ugly, bad software (ICU - not bad.. just meh), and most painfully - they use non-standardized keys meaning you will have a weird typing experience. Other mainstream board makers have lots of issues too, just don't get a Corsair. If you are very serious about your games, you may want a lighter switch, ( this one is 45g but you may want something even lighter but that will make your normal typing experience suffer) the switch I'd recommend is the Gateron Clear switch. You also could get a TKL board (a keyboard with the numpad) if you wanted to save on weight or price. Next, the mousepad and wristrest. To make sure everything is compatible, I'd just go for the Glorious versions. You can select a variety of different sizes, but I'll assume you would want the full size board wristrest and absolutely massive desk covering mousepad. Next, and equally important as the PC - the monitor. For competive gaming - get a 240HZ monitor with low input lag. No questions asked. I'll link all the peripherals down below. There are cheaper options for the monitor if need be. Also if you already have the peripherals, sorry about that.
https://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/gmmk-full-customized?variant=20235289591866
https://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/glorious-3xl-extended-gaming-mouse-pad-24x48
https://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/glorious-gaming-keyboard-wrist-rest-padded?variant=13596770243
https://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/glorious-model-o-black
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DTCPP3/?tag=thowisguy-20
You can PM after launch and I could help you out.
Inland Premium 1TB SSD 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCM6DXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F9HhDbG63PQYQ
I’d go with the slightly more expensive Inland Premium
Try looking into Ryzen 5 3600. It's 100 dollars cheaper and should outperform/equal 8700 in almost every scenario, especially if you want to look into productivity. Userbenchmark comparison. You might not even need an additional cpu cooler with this.
​
For ssd, you can upgrade to nvme for no additional cost: 512 GB inland premium. Or double the storage for less than $50 with the saved from the Ryzen 5: 1 tb for $105.
Are the m.2,s the same as listed here and if so only $10 off of retail price?
Inland Premium 1TB SSD 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCM6DXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PDqGDbBDSQAQN
Also the Microcenter private label Inland Premium series M.2 drives.
Any of them. That one looks kind of pricey for what it is... as in this one is cheaper with a better brand.
The PSU is overkill for what you actually need, unless the silent part is your main purchasing factor. For only £60, you could get a CX750 that would do everything you need it to do, including future SLI.
Also, a Crucial M500 240GB would be a good SSD option for £84.
That case is hideously overpriced. For £80 shipped, you could get a Define R4 that's just as good of quality and to me looks better.
[EDIT]: With the extra £55 you just saved, you could throw in a Hyper 412S for £27.
NP. That should make a pretty good gaming machine.
EDIT: if you even want to save more money for slightly less SSD speed you could go with a Crucial 240GB instead of the samsung. Well worth the ~$30 less IMO.
Not for the money, no. The i7 U processor and i5 U processor are essentially the same features, only difference is clock speed - which isn't really something you'll feel a big difference on, at least not nearly $300 worth of one. Were it an i7 MQ/HQ it'd be quad-core, so there you'd see a difference, but that's not an option on this system (due to power usage).
The system has 4GB RAM soldered, true, but there's one open DIMM slot that can fit up to a single 8GB SO-DIMM in. So the max memory for the system is 12GB.
Yea you could save about ~$100 installing your own SSD, if you're comfortable doing so. From Notebookcheck's internal look, it appears the 256GB they include is the Samsung 840 Pro, which is one of the best SSDs on the market, and retails for about $220. If you were to install your own, you could get a much cheaper Crucial M500 240GB for $120.
I got my 240 for $130. Not great, but nowhere near bad. I just didn't want to wait for the prices to drop any more because I needed the extra space. Also, did you but the PNY from Amazon? There seems to be many counterfeit PNY on amazon. My SSD was a crucial 240gb and it's currently $120, and definitely worth it. It works great, and is like half the price of the samsung and intel ones.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396888334&sr=8-3&keywords=SSD
The Crucial M500 240GB is on sale right now. You also get 20% off on it if you're using the Amazon credit card and input a promo code (I'm not sure if this applies to Amazon UK though).
Also on Amazon.ca if you prefer for $89.99.
This one for example. It's available at different sizes, but if 250 GB were ok for you, this one should have a great price/performance ratio.
I've got the 512 GB version of the predecessor and it's great.
Yes there is room for an SSD. It (Mobo) does not have a SATA 3 port (Only Sata2?) i believe but it will still run very fast, about 200-300mb/s transfer speeds. You do not need an SSD really; It helps having it sure but its by no means a MUST. A harddrive will do just fine. If your able to pick up an SSD, go for it. Heres an SSD thats cheap and good.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2-5-Inch-adapter-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A
It's helpful to have quicker boot times, faster program loading, and quicker data access but it should not affect the quality of gaming that much.
Samsung
Crucial
Thats cool, so would it just make sense to get a SATA II 3GB/s seeing as thats the type my motherboard supports? Or would it be better in the long run to get the SATA III 6GB/s?
Here's some examples I've been looking at
SATA 3GB/S - http://www.amazon.co.uk/OCZ-VTXPLR2-25SAT2-240G-240GB-Vertex-Internal/dp/B0085U6ZBK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
SATA 6GB/S - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=computers#productDetails
Don't get that PSU. It is like a leafblower. I just replaced it today with a Corsair RM650 as I couldnt stand it anymore. Already RMAd it and there was no change in noise. Otherwise very good PSU.
You can get a Crucial M500 ssd from amazon for $109
A cheaper motherboard would work unless you need lots of sata ports.
Just as a side note, [Amazon has it for $119.99] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) and is eligible for Prime.
Ordered from there because I had $60 in gift card balance.
What's the major differences between that and this? Except the warranty and read/write speed.
I'm not sure if this SSD is any good but they've just made it cheaper.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A/
No problem! I got this one - the 240GB variant. Any smaller and it would've been too much work to keep junk off of it in the long run, and I didn't want to pay more than that at the time, or I would've gone bigger. The 240 was the right price for me at the time.
I also got this hard drive caddy that goes into the optical bay so I could move my stock hard drive to where my DVD drive was.
Then I symlinked some of the larger folders in my User folder to folders on that second drive. This article from Matt Gemmell helped me figure that part out.
Then for good measure I put it on a Rain Design mStand and got a detached keyboard, mouse, and a powered USB hub to make it easy to disconnect it and run out the door.
Can anyone tell me if it's worth the price difference over this deal?
I'm willing to pay more for better quality, but if it's negligible I want to grab the Crucial before it's up in 40 minutes.
Don't worry!
> .com
For .ca it is actually $574.99
http://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU
AND amazon doesn't even have the best price.
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te1t0bw
The 970 is a fantastic value, but not worth upgrading to over the 780. A lot of games aren't optimized for SLI, but if you really need the extra power right now, I would get a second 780. No single game will require more than 8GB of RAM, although it can be handy to have for some other applications. If you've already filled all your slots, I wouldn't worry too much about it. An SSD is always a good idea. If nothing else, it'll decrease loading times for your games.
For a nice price/performance ratio, I would look at these:
256GB/512GB - Crucial MX100
1TB - Samsung 840 EVO
I'd point you towards a Samsung 840 EVO. Myself and about 8 of my co-workers bought them around the same time for our work laptops, and none of us has had a problem at all with them, and these are machines that are building code and generally in heavy use for 8 hours a day.
250 GB for $120 right now on Amazon.
Here's a 1TB SSD for € 350,-
It's probably a decent investment if you're doing editing regularly.
I have a separate computer with 4 1TB HDDs as RAID (0 if my memory serves) drives. I plug the GoPros SD card into the computer and using ssh I copy all the media to the drives. I found its the best way to have it accessible at all times (you need a high speed connection).
Buy an SSD its very recommended as the speed is much faster than a HDD. I have this drive for my laptop. Also buy a hard drive case that way you can connect it to a computer.
I currently use a Samsung 840 PRO SSD. They make a terabyte SSD for $420 USD.
However, there is currently a bug with the 840 EVO line which should be resolved on the 15th with a firmware patch.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00E3W16OU/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/278-4777783-1728465
£292.04
Hold me OP... Why must PCs be so much more expensive in the UK? :-/
not going to argue about the tablet (much better IMO for reading on) as for the storage issue 1TB SSDs are a thing, and will fit in a chromebook.
What worries me most is how much more likely you are to damage a tablet than a laptop and how are you going to power it? I cant think of anything that would need more processing power for day to day living (doesn't mean there isn't anything). and 16 gigs of storage (stock in most chromebooks AFAIK) even if half of that is saved for the OS is a lot of books (even non-OCR PDFs)
Ultimately it will boil down to personal preference and use case, just books? i have a 1st gen nook that is nigh indestructible (ok i need to replace the eink, but that was deliberate.)
need some pictures and video, and maybe have some semi reliable infrastructure? tablet would be a better bet,
making your own infrastructure? that will be a laptop.
Edit: a few words.
TL;DR: depends on what you want it for
Yes it is. Just pop it out, put in the SSD, and install windows like you would on a deskto. Make sure to download the drivers for your laptop though by googling " [laptop model here] drivers"
For a recomendation, I would sugguest a crucial MX100
except it isn't. It seems you're going for the SSDs in the 120s.
take a look
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-2-5-Inch-Internal-CSSD-F120GBLS/dp/B00EENTYFQ
the crucial is about like 10 dollars cheaper and you get an extra 8 gb of space.
though the crucial only has a max write of 150, I don't think it should matter as you're limited by your SATA type. Either way it should be a huge improvement over whatever you have now.
whatever you choose be prepared to load up on cocaine to match the speeds of your computer.
Some of these things are more than $50, but I have seen them on sale for $50 before.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFAGD88
not the fastest drive but really reliable
I work with Optiplex 745's and 755's that I refurbish for resale and as so they do carry the necessary parts to use the SSD (Which is just the SATA and SATA power from the Hard Drive) even though you may have to grab a SSD bracket or so to be able to mount the SSD inside the system and then for the SSD itself, I would avoid that SSD since of the controversy going on with Kingston putting slow parts inside of them and making them not really much improvement as just getting a Hard Drive and I would grab this SSD here http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419002406&sr=1-18&keywords=adata+ssd
Better yet, if you can afford to drop $62.99 on a 128gb solid state drive, it will make a world of difference in PS2 (and other games).
Load times will be much shorter, deploying will be fast/smooth, and checking your map won't have that annoying delay. Highly recommend.
Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive is a good, small SSD. It's pretty fast. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFAGD88/?tag=pcpapi-20
Intel NUC perhaps?
http://amzn.com/B00HVKLSVC
Along with the apparently frequently bought together RAM and this SSD, should make for a nice system. It runs TF2 on medium at 30fps though, so it may not be 100% what you're looking for., but it's highly compact.
Otherwise there is the Lenovo IdeaCentre Q190, though I can't really find any benchmarks on it's Celeron 1017U.
Or you can use this build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Pentium G3220 3.0GHz Dual-Core Processor | $54.98 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H81N Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $74.30 @ Mwave
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $35.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $69.93 @ Amazon
Case | Antec ISK 110 VESA Mini ITX Desktop Case w/90W Power Supply | $68.31 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $303.51
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-12 04:56 EST-0500 |
Don't worry about the power draw being 93w, it should work just fine.
I've heard good things about this one, but I haven't looked into SSDs in depth since I built my PC in 2012. I would suggest making a new thread so you can get a wider variety of answers. If you want to spend a little more, an 850 EVO is always a great choice.
tried to do a 980ti system but it ended up costing 1550 without the speakers.(+33)
If you want a 980ti in there you will have to drop the cpu to i5 or the ssd(i guess you need the 16 gigs)
https://www.amazon.fr/Intel-1150-INTEL-E3-1231V3-SR1R5/dp/B00K64I0S4/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462980991&sr=1-2&keywords=xeon
https://www.amazon.fr/ASRock-B85M-Carte-Intel-Socket/dp/B00MI8D2D4/ref=sr_1_31?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981228&sr=1-31
https://www.amazon.fr/HyperX-HX316C10FR-M%C3%A9moire-1600MHz-Rouge/dp/B00J8E90NW/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981338&sr=1-6 x2
https://www.amazon.fr/Seagate-ST1000DM003-Barracuda-Disque-interne/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=lp_430345031_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981103&sr=1-1
https://www.amazon.fr/Disque-SanDisk-vitesse-lecture-SDSSDHII-240G-G25/dp/B00M8ABEIM/ref=sr_1_16?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981299&sr=1-16
https://www.amazon.fr/GIGABYTE-nVIDIA-GTX970-DDR5-Overclock/dp/B00NZT6D68/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462984185&sr=1-1
https://www.amazon.fr/Seasonic-S12II-520W-Alimentation-520-BRONZE/dp/B00390P1NO/ref=sr_1_45?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462984132&sr=1-45
https://www.amazon.fr/ARCTIC-F12-Ventilateur-performance-boitier/dp/B002KTVFTE/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462982595&sr=1-1
https://www.amazon.fr/Thermaltake-Versa-Bo%C3%AEtier-tour-avec-ventilateur/dp/B00P9OES28/ref=sr_1_104?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462982417&sr=1-104
https://www.amazon.fr/Acer-GN246HLBbid-Predator-FullHD-1920/dp/B00IG0Z0HY/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462983738&sr=1-1&keywords=Acer+GN246HL
https://www.amazon.fr/Logitech-Speaker-System-Haut-parleurs-Subwoofer/dp/B003LNXT7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462984316&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+z313
final cost 1261,73 with all costs included
It definitely runs better and always has there's just a lot of crashing bugs with the May update.
My buildings render a lot better (everything is usually loaded in as soon as I'm in the plane), the console is pretty quite, and all my other games look amazing and load faster.
I play CODWWII, Assassins Creed Origins, and NBA 2K and it's a way better experience than my OG Xbox.
I upgraded bc my disc drive in my OG Xbox was busted and I had to tilt my xbox up to a 45 degree angle for the discs to be read lol.
EDIT: I also just ordered the SSD below bc I had the extra cash, it arrives today so I'll let you know if it makes difference with PUBG and my other games:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RJS55D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the wrong take, OP didn't ask for best bang for the buck PC, he asked for the best PC.
Cooler: Air is usually cooler and quieter than AIOs, in your machine you want the noctua nh-d15 though.
Your memory is not the best it can be for Ryzen (you want 3200c14 or 3600c16). Remember you have 4 DIMM slots, you can go 4x8 if you want, but I don't think they are cheaper than the 2x16 kits.
3600c16
or
3200c14
I personally have the latter one, Samsung b-die for good overclocking potential.
Storage: Don't put mechanical in this build for the love of god. Your "boot drive" is fine w/ the 860 evo, consider the m.2 version for slight (and I mean slight) performance gains and less wires:
also consider it's bigger brother the 970 Evo
For your "data drive", get a 2tb mx500, If you buy a mechanical drive for this build you will be banned :).
The video card situation is a weird one right now. nVidia keeps the good bins of their cards and sells the rest to AIBs. If you want the best 2080ti, you want the founders edition
But nVidia has probably the worst customer service, and 3rd party cards offer better cooling. It's a decision that's up to you. I personally went with a Founders Edition card for my build (2080 Super though).
Get an 80+ platinum power supply
This is a hot take, but consider a wireless mouse. The offerings today have no lag and gaming without cable drag is fantastic. Some suggestions:
Logitech G Pro Wireless
Logitech G703
As someone already said, you don't need that psu. It's overkill.
Here's your build and you are only using 289W. You would be completely fine with a 600W PSU and it can save you a few bucks. Rule of thumb: Take your wattage, double it. That's the PSU you need.
If you still want to put that money towards something, put it towards an M.2 SSD.
this one?
By fit you mean work? That's a 2.5" drive which works with anything that has a SATA port. If you don't want cables then the M.2 equivalent will also work with your motherboard.
Or the 860 EVO M.2 SATA for 127.99 off Amazon currently. Gamers don’t need NVMe performance - so if you’re not using your machine as a workstation this is a much better deal. Of course everyone has their preferences and I’m not judging.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB M.2 SATA Internal SSD (MZ-N6E1T0BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07822Z77M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_28z8Bb5PHN0ZZ
It will work. It's not an exceptional deal. The 860 evo is slightly better and slightly cheaper. Just splitting hairs though. Both are lovely.
SATA: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T
NVMe: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-860-SATA-Internal-MZ-N6E1T0BW/dp/B07822Z77M/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=860+EVo+1tb+nvme&qid=1555818018&s=electronics&sr=1-1
A 250GB SSD by itself is a bit small for storage...you may want to consider going larger, especially since ~500GB SSDs such as one of the following can be had for not much more:
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Storage | Crucial - MX500 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €123.89 @ Amazon Deutschland
> Could not finde the Power Source and CPU-Cooler on pcpartpicker
Protip: PCPartPicker has a German localization with and local shops and according prices - just click the "United States" in the top right of any webpage on the PCPartPicker website.
It's quite possible you couldn't find the parts simply because they are not available in the US. But even if they're not listed on PCPartPicker Germany, you can still sue the "add custom part" function located at the bottom of your part list.
For example, here's what your current build looks like on PCPartPicker Germany; note that I manually added the price for the RAM since that isn't listed:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor | €188.94 @ Mindfactory
Motherboard | Gigabyte - Z370 AORUS Gaming 7 (rev. 1.0) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | €247.40 @ Mindfactory
Memory | Mushkin - Redline 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | €160.00
Storage | Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | €116.85 @ Amazon Deutschland
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card | €439.00 @ Caseking
Case | be quiet! - Pure Base 600 w/Window (Black/Orange) ATX Mid Tower Case | €81.99 @ Amazon Deutschland
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €1234.18
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-02-16 01:48 CET+0100 |
Sure. In the UK but pretty sure prices will be similar or cheaper in the US.
Inateck 2.5 Hard Drive Enclosure, USB 3.0 External Hard Drive Case, FE2004 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IJNDBM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0jgkDbPEJVKAT
Crucial MX500 CT500MX500SSD1 500 GB (3D NAND, SATA, 2.5 Inch, Internal SSD) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0786QNS9B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hlgkDbQHKN335
Crucial or Samsung ssd are best imo. Capacity depends on how much you want to use it. Destiny obviously benefits from it but other games can too
I would skip the mechanical hard drive and get a 500gb SSD instead. You can always add another drive once that one gets 75% full. This is better than the one you have https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0786QNS9B/.
If a combo is available, take the extra savings and get a 2600X. Not only is the 2600X a better processor than the 2600, but it has a better CPU cooler, the wraith spire. See this thermal performance comparison of the CPU coolers: https://www.techspot.com/amp/review/1635-amd-wraith-coolers-compared/
Hi, The thermal paste we use at the Apple Authorised Service Provider I work for is this https://www.amazon.fr/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Refroidisseur-Dissipateur/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=mx-4&qid=1567774785&s=gateway&sr=8-4. It is much better than the Apple thermal.
The Samsung EVO 860 you linked is an SSD we use for customers Macs, we also use the Crucial MX500, both are good SSDs.
The ram you linked is fine, we use Crucial ram but Crucial ram is normally more expensive.
u/ThunderAnt advice to make a bootable USB installer before repalcing the drive is a good idea as it won't rely on the internet during the install.
If you have the MacBook Pro 13" 2012 non retina then be extremely careful with the hard drive cable as it easily fails https://beetstech.com/blog/prevent-a1278-mid-2012-hard-drive-cable-failure
Which ones are the MCLs? these are explained as confusing marketing since their 3bit MLC is TLC. Are their SATA SSDs just exactly the same as the Crucial, WD, Adata, Kingston, SanDisk, etc.
Comparing yours and a Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB. It'll make a difference.
https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-860-Evo-500GB-vs-OCZ-Agility-3-240GB/m428560vs369
Go for a MX500 if you want it to be cheaper. Similar results compared to the 860 Evo.
​
​
>MB is too old to have any SATA ports (but I could be wrong).
I really do not know how old a PC we are talking about, but any Sandy Bridge PC (late 2011) will have some SATA ports. SATA revision 2 was released in 2004 and should be on all the computers by 2009.
These Sandy-Bridge PCs are still relevant when given a high-quality SSD and a fresh install of Windows 10. If it only has 2 or 4 GB of main memory, you can add more to get to 8 GB. Using FireFox over Chrome is also a memory-saving choice (AFAIK).
Make a USB installer: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
Buy a high-compatibility drive from a place with a good return policy: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0786QNS9B (half the size was only a $15 savings)
Or, if you tell us the make and model, we can tell you if it is a good idea to try.
here is a SODIMM stick that should match up with your trident 3 specs
here is a crucial mx500 500Gb SSD
You can get a cheaper/less space ssd like 128gb or 256gb If budget is an issue
Those two are all you need really
Crucial SSD 500 Gb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786QNS9B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB to SSD SATA adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And the YouTube video: https://youtu.be/-LB9TqfQrsA
Edit: Forgot to mention the software I used: https://www.disk-partition.com/free-partition-manager.html
Edit: Some SSDs will only work in PCs, but if you stick to getting what's called a SATA type SSD you will be fine :)
The mx500 is the same price on amazon. Because of the longer warranty, I'd go for the mx500.
Yeah. That exact drive was $299 at Fry's in Austin last CitizenCon.
For those without an NVMe slot, Amazon also have the Sandisk 1TB SATA SSD for £83 today
Asus Prime B450M-A/CSM AMD Ryzen... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKV5HWJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
AMD Ryzen 5 2600 Processor with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41WS48?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 X... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4G525F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
SanDisk SSD PLUS 1TB Internal SSD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D998212?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That’s what we bought and he had a case already and I believe a 520Watt PSU
I also gave him my Asus RTX-2060 6gb. Any case or 2060 card will do the trick tho, that stuff is all about the same performance wise.
Works freaking great. I was very impressed with the performance. It ran almost as good as my 2060 did in my i5 9600k in games. I upgraded to a 2080 Super which is the only reason I gave up the 2060. And if I hadn’t got a 49 super ultra wide monitor I could have stuck with the 2060.
On a single screen it worked great
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-SSD-PLUS-Internal-SDSSDA-1T00-G26/dp/B07D998212/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3HNSQIL8I1P1C&keywords=ssd+1tb&qid=1568539034&sprefix=ssd+1t%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-4
There is a good deal on a san disk SSD on amazon right now, if you guys are interested(1h left): https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-SDSSDA-1T00-G26-Western-Digital-Technologies/dp/B07D998212/
Also there are more good deals on this list: http://homestuff.space/black-friday-deals-2018
No because it's not intended for frequent and fast writes.
Buy this and put this in it for a few extra big games or a decent amount of smaller ones or if you want a ton of games you could do this in it or find a middle ground. At the very damn least use a 7200rpm HDD.
depending on where you live this is an absolutely banging deal on a 1TB ssd https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D998212
EDIT: just re-read your post, 140CAD is a pretty good price for a 1tb ssd
It’s your lucky day. Amazon has one day only sale 1TB for $100.
right here
Without ref link
twice the price for 4x the storage
Total cost was 910ish. My build is a 4,1 2009 flashed to 2010. Intel xeon x5680, 48gb ram 1066 ECC, 4 tb SSD (bought 3, had an extra laying around to make 4), added a USB 3.0 card, and an MSI RX560 2GB GPU.
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=174082488738&view=all&tid=2078078862007
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZWX6PD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072539VBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D998212/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0773ZMVRH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9BDY3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also had a mechanical keyboard, display, and magic mouse prior to the build. So maybe plan on 1200-1300 if you need to buy those and the extra SSD as well. That system from Newegg includes a 1tb HDD though, so you can load it up in one of the hard drive sleds as a storage drive, just don't use it as the boot drive. PM anytime if you have any questions!
It's the same price on Amazon too, if anyone prefers: Intel SSD 660p Series (1.0TB M.2 80mm PCIe 3.0 x 4 3D2 QLC) 2 2281" (SSDPEKNW010T8X1 ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ffKlDbRESY3HJ
Edit: Sorry, totally blanked on the promo code thing.
Word yea I mean just grab 2 of these. Haven’t heard anyone say burn games in so long lol
Get two of these. Save the headache I the case of the extra wires. Also they are smaller and easy to store
LG Electronics 8X USB 2.0 Super Multi Ultra Slim Portable DVD Writer Drive +/-RW External Drive with M-DISC Support (Black) GP65NB60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ODDE33U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2yvxDbZF4FD3G
Also swap one of your ssds out with this it’s faster and again less cables
Intel SSD 660p Series (1.0TB M.2 80mm PCIe 3.0 x 4 3D2 QLC) 2 2281" (SSDPEKNW010T8X1 ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bBvxDbRA6WFB8
Same price on Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
Looks good. I'm +1 with everyone else who has said 'SSD' with the caveat of choosing a better SSD than the one you have chosen in system builder. The 860 is a SATAIII drive and at 500gb will fill with modern games fast.
If budget is an issue, I'd go this route instead.
(Newegg) https://www.newegg.com/intel-660p-series-1tb/p/N82E16820167462?cm_sp=SearchSuccess-_-INFOCARD-_-intel+660+ssd-_-20-167-462-_-1&Description=intel+660+ssd
or (Amazon) https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-SSDPEKNW010T8X1/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=dp_ob_title_def
The Intel 660p (1tb) is not the fastest NVME drive by any metric but its still 3 times faster than any SATAIII based drive. Plus the extra room is well worth the extra +$20 dollars it would cost.
Again, everything else looks fine, especially if you already have a monitor/KB/mouse and OS. Good luck!
Intel 660p M.2 NVme SSD for $94.99
Great value and performance with 1024GB of storage.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
Here ya go!
Like this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-250-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW
If I were in your position, I would go for ASUS ROG GL552VW-DH71 laptop and get this Samsung 850 EVO - 250GB - M.2 SATA III Internal SSD for it which would make it a perfect machine for you to use for programming as well as to run those games on great settings. This laptop has a very good build quality and likewise, performance. It has a brilliant quad core i7 processor, 16 GB RAM, a decent gtc 960 dedicated graphics card and of course a 1 TB HDD that when combines with the SSD I recommend you get, will give an outstanding performance. When I was speaking about build quality I wanted to mentioned specifically this laptops very solid keyboard, great touch pad and of course, it has a great chassis and battery life.
Alright.
Well, I was asking about the speed differences really. Both are SATA M.2.
Here's a link of the drive I mean: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1466972412&sr=8-4&keywords=samsung+m.2
man hows that SSD compare to this one, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=psdc_1292116011_t2_B01IAGSDJ0
im seeing a transfer speed of 6gb/sec vs the NVMe 750mb/sec. Is this a direct correlation to a better option or am I missing something else?
There's an m.2 version available.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486508139&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+m.2+ssd
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW
Yep it is an m.2
​
Would a SATA M.2 SSD work on a PCIe M.2 slot?
To be more specific, would a Samsung 850 EVO - 250GB - M.2 SATA III Internal SSD work with the MSI Z170A SLI motherboard?
The 850 M2 version is only $5 more. In the US at least. Performance is about the same. Just something to consider if are picking a small case or something.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-250-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453480421&sr=8-2&keywords=samsung+850+m2
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453480445&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+850
Exactly. You're saving space in a tower build that already has plenty of room for 2.5" drives. The M2 2280 drives are still SATA III drives and have read/write/access times all very similar to current SSD's and offer no benefit other than space.
However the new NVMe drives have a PCIe bus (I believe?! I'm not super sure), but I know that their speeds far surpass current SSD's by a great margin. The issue is whether or not you'll truly be able to tell the difference. An SSD is already significantly faster than an HDD, this we know, but I can't tell you real world differences that you'll notice on an NVMe drives vs. a SATA III connected SSD. That may warrant some extra reading on your part to see if the price difference is worth it to you.
But just checking Amazon you can find plenty of results, but it seems like the Sammy pro's are the way to go.
I do agree 256 is pretty useless for what i do too. I really cant tell if its worth it or not cause both are great. I'm not sure how advanced you used windows, but in the power options you can limit the CPU usage to 99% and it almost completely takes care of the fan speed going up for no reason on the 2015 model. If the extra money on a new one isn't too big of a deal i would do that over used but thats just me.
You can't put in a second SSD cause there is only one slot, but what i did for the 2015 model i used to have is i just got one of these and never ran out of storage again. https://www.amazon.com/Sandisk-Solid-State-Drive-SD8SN8U-1T00-1122/dp/B0194MV300/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474683831&sr=8-2&keywords=1tb+m.2+sata+ssd
if you do go with the 2016 Blade you will need the newer type of SSD like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474683889&sr=8-2&keywords=nvme+1tb
I went with the PCIE NVME M.2 SSD 512 GB from Samsung. Here is the Amazon link. It seems really fast as I am using it as the OS drive. I had no firmware issues or BIOS issues. It just showed up in the BIOS. I did update the BIOS of P50 beforehand. Please note ... you do need the M.2 tray. I found mine at CDW for about $14 each. I received it about three days after ordering.
Regarding the middle button on the bottom of the trackpad ... I am not really sure what it does. However, when I click it my cursor turns to a circle with a dot in the middle with the four arrows pointing in directions of the compass. Wish I could get a screenshot of it.
Not even sure what's up with your form:
> Do you prefer a 2 in 1 form factor, good battery life or best specifications to your requirements for the money? Pick or include any that apply.
>Best Requirements
Wtaf man. GET IT TOGETHER CHARLIE.
> Do you have a preferred screen size? If indifferent, put N/A.
>Look at last question
Last question says you prefer Windows..
I get the feeling this question is a troll but nevertheless, I'm going to give you a nice answer.
Programming doesn't usually require a hardware intensive machine, it doesn't need a GPU or a
penisvery powerful CPU but since you asked for such a high budget laptop in which weight doesn't matter I'm going to offer you a high-budget laptop and a low-budget laptop. The high budget lappy will last you approx 6 years and the low budget will last you 4 years approx.I shall, from this point onwards, assign nicknames to the laptops:
1500 USD ASUS ROG G751JY-VS71(WX) shall now be called "That popular fat guy in college"
The 800 USD Dell Inspiron 15 7599 shall be called "good guy greg" because it's great value.
Processor: Both of these guys have incredibly powerful processors but note that a high end notebook processor is equal to a mid-range gaming processor. The fatty can easily spit out 2.6 GHz with it's i7-4720HQ however the good guy can push out a very respectable 2.3 GHz with it's powerful i5 6300HQ.
I want to give you a tip, NEVER buy a laptop based on it's processor solely. Most people are fooled buy the fact that one processor is an i7 and the other is an i5, well here's a fact, the most powerful model of the i7 can push out only 3% more than the most powerful i5.
Both of these processors can run heavily processor intensive games like "Total war: Warhammer" and can compile code equally fast because the algorithm is usually bottle-necked.
Graphics Card: They both have very powerful graphics cards but the fatty wins this battle hands down. It comes with a Nvidia GTX 980M which has 1536 CUDA cores, versus the good guy which only has approx 640 CUDA cores, respectable but the 960M is no match. VRAM is not a limiting factor, in either of them, the only game that requires more than 4 GB of VRAM is The Witcher 3, which can still be run at high and only consumes about 3 GB. Even GTA V only requires 3.8 GB at it's highest settings. Both of these can run Overwatch at max with 50-60 FPS, though the 980M can probably push out 80 FPS.
The fatty is definitely much better in this regard if you plan on doing very hardcore gaming.
Storage: I know for a fact that coders lover SSD's, the good guy comes with a pre-installed 256 GB M.2 SSD, M.2 SSD's are some of the most powerful SSD's and 256 GB is more than enough. The ASUS (popular fatty) has an optional SSD slot, goes upto 512 GB in both of the laptops. You can get a 256 GB M.2 SSD for 200 USD or a 512 GB M.2 SSD for 320 USD.
When getting an SSD only opt for Samsung, they make the best SSD's with 0 flaws.
Other than that they both have 1000 GB HDD's (no, not 1024) but that should be plenty.
RAM: NEVER BUY A LAPTOP BASED ON RAM YOU FUCKING DIMWIT, IT'S UP-GRADABLE. JESUS CHRIST.
But yeah they both have DDR3 RAM. The ASUS has 16 GB while the Dell has 8 GB
Screen size: Coders ALWAYS prefer large screens so I got the ASUS with it's 17.3 inch 1080p display, you know the ladies love a big screen ;), though the dell has a comfortable 15.6 inch 1080p screen. But as a coder I think you will prefer a large display.
Extra: The dell has thunderbolt 3
Sorry if I hurt your feelings during the review. Pansy.
Youtube videos you should watch:
[SSD's vs HDD's](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQEjGKYXjw8)
[CPU vs GPU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kypaBjJ-pg)
[i3 vs i5 vs i7**](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLSPub4ydiM)
Good luck.
Awesome, I love the audio upgrade! Don't really need the type C connector
yetso this is a great trade off. Thanks!! I noticed that the Sniper has an M.2 connector. Would you recommend a NVMe? Looks like 4x-5x the real world read/write speeds and only 2x the price. You've saved me money from not wasting on an OCing battlestation, so would this be the best upgrade value? (instead of my 850 EVO for my OS/C: drive?)M.2 is CAPABLE of performing faster, but the one you pointed out performs identically to the SATA version. You don't see the speed unless you buy the ones with NVMe (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01639694M/ref=psdc_1292116011_t2_B00TGIW1XG), or even the "slower" 2.0 ones (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V01C376/ref=psdc_1292116011_t3_B00TGIVZTW)
Also, the SATA has a 5 year warranty while the M.2 only has a 3 year warranty. So if the performance and price is pretty much identical, the SATA would be the ideal one to buy as a normal OS drive.
M.2 is still a niche IMO. Yes, it's ridiculously fast and expensive, but you won't utilize the full potential if all you're going to do is boot Windows and load games. Video editing, post-processing, etc. is where you can see the benefits of M.2.
Maybe instead of a SATA SSD, have a look at PCIE NVMe drive
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1467750072&sr=1-2&keywords=samsung+960+500
And a 1TB WD Black
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Performance-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B00FJRS6FU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1467750110&sr=1-1&keywords=1tb++black
Usually everything loads instantly for me, maybe 5-10 seconds for certain things. I reccomend a samsung ssd.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01639694M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_qG7DzbGGYTRBY
this is what I have but I think they have newer+cheaper options like the 960 evo. STRONGLY reccomend not buying a cheapo brand ssd.
found this page on the NZXT site. It details the radiator space in your case.
You can mount the fury x radiator as your rear exhaust fan (it's a 120 mm radiator/fan) with zero issues, and the top of the case has more than enough room for your H100i. I am confident you will not have problems fitting both coolers in your case. If you're crafty enough, you can even put both coolers on just the top of your case (it has 3 120 mm fan radiator support). It's what I'm currently doing with my case; dual 120 mm cpu fan radiator and fury x radiator on top. This allows me to put the second fury x radiator in the rear exhaust spot. Be aware, AMD recommends mounting the fury x radiator above the card, so don't mount it on the front or bottom of the case.
Be careful with that parts list though, the 1409 total is quoting the fury x at zero dollars. It's ~650 on amazon, so expect to pay a bit over 2k for everything you have (remember to calculate tax, it's serious at these prices).
One last note, the performance increase from the 6700k over the 4790k is not huge (little less than 5%, and a 4790k will not be the bottle neck of your pc for gaming). If you need to save a couple hundred, get the 4790k (~70 dollars cheaper), 16 GB of DDR3 RAM (~70 dollars cheaper), and a compatible motherboard. Depending on the features you need, the mobo could be a bit cheaper as well. You might seriously consider getting the 4790k set up and spending that difference in cash on a M.2 solid state drive. The single fastest solid state M.2 on the consumer market is about 200 dollars more than your current SSD. Compare the two here and here. The 850 EVO has a mixed seq. read/write speed of 430 MB/s (which is great, don't get me wrong), while the 950 M.2 has a mixed seq. read/write speed of 1,574 MB/s.
If you're uneasy about your build, spend more time researching it and wait to buy it until you're 100% certain. The computer you have listed there will run, and everything will fit inside your case. Make sure you buy windows 10 on a USB since it looks like you didn't include a cd/dvd drive bay in your parts list (which is ok, I don't have one either).
Issues I've found were...
I also have the best everything, fresh install, game is also on a 950 Pro which also houses the pagefile along with 32GB of RAM.
All drivers are up to date from chipset to graphics. So with that said, I can't think of any other issue other than a server side problem. Let's hope Wildcard can finally give a clear understanding as to what's going on and why these complications are coming up.
From my understanding the drive needs to be PCIE itself to get the faster speeds, its not just a different adapter. If you notice, some m.2 drives are way more expensive than others, those ones are generally the PCIE drives. The PCIE m.2 drives look different at the end, though they still fit into any m.2 slot, the 'key' pattern is different.
My motherboard actually only supports PCIE drives, even though the sata ones also fit into the same slot no problem, which is how i found out theres a difference. this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01639694M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is an example of what a PCIE drive looks like.
Okay. You're confusing interface with protocol which is very common. The interface is the way you connect them-- M.2 goes straight on your mobo with a small form factor, while 2.5" are larger, easily portable, but require cables to connect.
nVME is a fast protocol that allows the SSD to make use of PCI slot speeds, meaning like way faster than SATA, which is the more mainstream SSD protocol. Here's where things get confusing: 2.5" SSDs (the bigger ones) only use SATA (slower), while M.2 SSDs come in both nVME (speedy and expensive) and SATA.
Of the two, go with the nVME. But tbh, if you don't specifically have an application for the extra speed you won't benefit from it. Boot times are like 7 seconds vs 8 seconds. Which is why I always say buy SSDs for price/gb!!!
For example, the MX300 comes in both 2.5" and M.2 form factors. It will be identical to these expensive samsungs for your purposes but you can get like twice the storage. There are many options to explore. I offer pcpartpicker.com as a good website to use.
I personally like both form factors, but M.2 is certainly easier to use.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-480GB-SDSSDA-480G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G46Q8/
random 2.5" i found 500gb
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-525GB-Internal-CT525MX300SSD4/dp/B01L80DH4G/ random M.2 i found 500gb
I just got one. They really do make a difference, especially if your system memory is getting full.
I got away with spending only $75 for 480GB
Be careful though.
I saw a lot of no name chinese knockoffs at $50 that I would not trust.
Your most cost effective route is to get a drive and a $10-$20 enclosure separately.
Last month i got mine on sale for $12 off.
Amazon.com: SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB Internal SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - SDSSDA-480G-G26: Computers & Accessories
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-480GB-Solid-State-SDSSDA-480G-G26/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=pd_gwm_cr_simh_1?pf_rd_s=blackjack-experiment-1&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pd_rd_wg=T9fbq&pd_rd_r=ST92QT0JTXTFGHM7V1SR&pd_rd_w=xHntF&pf_rd_r=C3ZYYCCWR3Q3EDR2MGBC&pf_rd_p=4330ddf3-ae16-472e-a2ae-05b619e5e749&pd_rd_i=B01F9G46Q8
And
Amazon.com: UGREEN USB C Hard Drive Enclosure USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type C to SATA External Hard Drive Disk Case Adapter Housing for 9.5mm 7mm 2.5 Inch SATA I II III, PS4, HDD, SSD, 6Gbps Fast Speed UASP Tool Free: Gateway
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=external+drive+enclosure&qid=1566190374&s=gateway&sprefix=exterlan+drive&sr=8-13
Dalla regia di /r/italyinformatica ci informano che gli hard disk meccanici sono roba demodè, aggiornatevi con SSD.
Sandisk 480GB 2.5" SataIII 119€
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B01F9G46Q8
Oppure
Samsung 500 GB SSD Serie 850 EVO 2.5" Sata III - 129,00€
http://www.ebay.it/itm/191659530604
Any SSD will be an upgrade. I believe the late 08 can go to 8gb of RAM, if it can, I'd do that with the SSD, you'll extend it a few years easily, though you're stuck at El Cap, I believe.
480 GB SSD for 130
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-240GB-SDSSDA-240G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1491107037&sr=8-8&keywords=480gb%2Bssd&th=1
Screwdriver kit (if you don't have one, you'll need a Phillips #0 and a Torx T5 or 6 for the hard drive nubbins, skip if you have one!) for 15
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015F734P0/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A13PRKMVKLJGWH
IDE/SATA to USB (if you want to copy data from old HDD to the SSD. Ignore if you want to start fresh) for 11.
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B01J7MWD4M/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491107469&sr=1-18&keywords=ide+sata+to+usb
1660ti $279 (on amazon febuary 22, try to order quickly, i expect high demand)
2x4gb ddr4 (better performance than 1x8gb) $60 https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Signature-2666MHz-PC4-21300-Heatshield/dp/B07BRYVFKL/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550653071&sr=8-3&keywords=2x4gb
b350 or b450 (no performance difference) $63 https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-480GB-Solid-State-SDSSDA-480G-G26/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1550653358&sr=1-6&keywords=512gb+ssd&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027459011
case (depends on your aesthetics) ~$35 https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Micro-ATX-Computer-Gaming-CASE-V06/dp/B01GSQ2I22/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1550653848&sr=1-2&keywords=computer+case
lepa n400 500w psu $40 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6ZP3N68355&ignorebbr=1
sandisk 480gb ssd $60 https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-480GB-Solid-State-SDSSDA-480G-G26/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1550653358&sr=1-6&keywords=512gb+ssd&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027459011
Check r/buildapcsales, for price savings and when sales happen. you might pick some different components based off that. don't worry about brands too much, the internet is filled with fanboyism.
how do these compare to the sandisk ssd's that are currently on sale for £49.98?:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-Sata-Inch-Internal/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EKSEWDS2X31WJNXZ78V1
Great deal new - https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-Sata-Inch-Internal/dp/B01F9G46Q8
SSDs:
HDDs:
SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB Internal SSD $60 on Amazon. That would be pretty easy. If you want to get them 1GB, Amazon has starting at $107
I would pick up whatever is cheapest per GB since you won't be able to utilize full SATA3 bandwidth either way. There's a 480GB Sandisk SSD on sale for $99 right now.
I wouldn't suggest a SSHD really, it's nowhere near as fast as a SSD, and only provides some caching performance bonusses over a regular HDD. And for the nearly £65 listed, you could get a 500GB SSD off Amazon instead
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-Sata-Inch-Internal/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ssd&qid=1554975287&s=gateway&sr=8-5
​
My bad on the case part, i had it mixed up with the bigger series they produce. The Arctic alpine should fit though.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-480GB-Solid-State-SDSSDA-480G-G26/dp/B01F9G46Q8/
+
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/
I got the 480 gb SSD for $60, but you can get a 240 gb for $33 and it will work just as good.
Thanks for your time and research! I apologize, I was comparing the two different SSDs and I copy/pasted the wrong link. this is the correct link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F9G46Q8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468487161&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=ssd+new+version&dpPl=1&dpID=31-X%2BjRZTpL&ref=plSrch
Do you suggest I keep the SSD Plus (new) or a OCZ Trion 150 480gb?
I'm guessing you're not running an SSD?
I know you probably don't want to throw money at the issue but if you're not on an SSD it's a very beneficial upgrade. The SSDs that fit a 2011 MB are pretty cheap and it would really breathe new life into your mac.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9G46Q8/
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O
this is what I put in mine, but if you're nearing your budget cap this might not be the best option.
Sure. Crucial MX300
$275 GB SSD for less than $100
https://www.amazon.it/Crucial-MX300-Interno-275GB-CT275MX300SSD1/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511009107&sr=8-1&keywords=crucial This?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | €104.64
Motherboard | MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | €84.00
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €90.00
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €45.00
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card | €271.00
Case | Corsair - 100R ATX Mid Tower Case | €54.00
Other | Corsair CP-9020097-UK VS550 ATX/EPS Vs Series 80 Plus Power Supply Unit | €46.00
Other | Crucial 8GB Single DDR4 2400 MT/s (PC4-192000) DIMM 288-Pin Memory - CT8G4DFD824A | €85.63
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €780.27
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-12 13:00 GMT+0000 |
ALL of these are from Amazon UK, i just simply converted all prices from Pound to Euro. Build was £690 or 780 Euros Total.
RYZEN 1200 - https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-YD1200BBAEBOX-Wraith-Stealth-Cooler/dp/B0741DN383/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510491545&sr=8-1&keywords=ryzen+1200
MOBO - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MSI-B350M-GAMING-PRO-Motherboard/dp/B06WXX7FR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510490987&sr=8-1&keywords=MSI+-+B350M+GAMING+PRO
1TB HDD - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Desktop-Hard-Disk-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1510491127&sr=1-2&keywords=1tb+hdd&dpID=51DmuZNyIGL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
275GB SSD-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1
GTX 1060 6GB - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MSI-GTX-1060-GAMING-DisplayPort/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1510491432&sr=1-2&keywords=gtx+1060+6gb
CASE - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CC-9011075-WW-Windowed-Mid-Tower-Computer/dp/B00RORBQNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510491311&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+100r
PSU - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CP-9020097-UK-PLUS-Power-Supply/dp/B00TE4XSMA/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1510491365&sr=1-1&keywords=500w+psu
RAM - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-DDR4-2400-PC4-19200-288-Pin/dp/B019FRED60/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510491809&sr=8-3&keywords=8gb+ddr4&dpID=41TDZYwtkwL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Looking for a SSD on BF!
I checked the best buy flyer plus another offer that was posted on this subreddit earlier, which one do you think is better?
Samsung Evo 850 EVO vs. Crucial MX300
The samsung is more expensive and has slightly less storage so im kind of confused because that was my original option, do you think I should buy the crucial one instead then?
http://flyer.bestbuy.ca/flyers/bestbuy-weekly?flyer_run_id=276105&type=1&locale=EN&postal_code=N1R1H3&store_code=995&is_store_selection=true&auto_flyer=&sort_by=#!/flyers/bestbuy-weekly?flyer_run_id=276105
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD5O/?tag=pcp0f-20&th=1
Do yourself a favor and get at least a 250GB SSD. 120GB is going to fill up real quick. Check out this one instead.
Also, the Z-series motherboard is overkill unless you plan to overclock (which the i5-7500 can't do). I know you said you plan to eventually upgrade to an i7-7700k, in which case the motherboard you chose is fine. Just something to keep in mind.
[This is the one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=twister_B01IB47HBG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) I got, Amazon had it on sale for 84.99 the other day.
I don't know which pc case you have. It may have SSD mounting bracket built-in. SSD is always better than HDD if you want higher speeds but lower space. I don't use amazon at all but for around 80-100$ I'd recommend those:
1 - (30% off)
... 2
... 3
I would also probably consider adding an SSD, due to increase in speed. You could put your OS, games, and other software on the SSD and then your files on your hard drive. This is a good SSD drive option. I have the 1TB model, with a 2TB HDD, but 256GB is most likely plenty, since you're leaning towards lower price. This is NOT a requirement, though, so don't freak out about the price. https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/
I think you should go for an RX 470 and an MX300. What are your thoughts on these?
okay. In safe mode with networking, can you open chrome and everything fine?
Your hard drive is what all your info is stored on. Typically they use 5400 RPM drives that are SLOW and really make the pc work much worse than it can. I highly suggest buying a Solid State Drive such as this for your laptop and installing a clean version of windows on it. I did it to my y50 and it is a whole new machine. Boots to desktop from being off in 10 seconds.
Heres what I mean with the USB
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOUjiIsC5T4
And for the SSD
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oq7JFCarxzI
I would suggest getting a 1 TB HDD like this to put your games and other large files on.
Then get this for your operating system and a few choice programs.
For memory, I would get at least 8 GB with a max of 32 GB. There is no reason to go overboard on the memory, since it sounds like you just want to game.
Yup, that one will do fine. They are all the same card with different coolers as long as it says GTX 1050ti (or in this case, GTX 1050 without the 'Ti' suffix. Ti is faster, but costs more of course). I have that model in my sisters computer as well and she is doing just fine with it.
Other than that, there isnt much that would give a huge increase in performance. With the exception of a SSD.
SSD's really bring any machine to life again. Everything loads so much faster. It will not increase gaming performance (framerate) but it will drastically reduce load times. Most games will load in a few seconds or less. Skyrim on my machine loads so fast, i can't even read the first word in their load screens that normally talk about things in the game.
The downside is, they are expensive for their size. Normally one puts windows on it, and perhaps your favorite game (or software if you use anything specific).
Something like a https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1520087828&sr=1-3&keywords=mx300 would work quite well, or the cheaper 120-150GB versions as well.
Depends a bit on how much money you have to spend.
After that, you need a new processor. Sadly, there isn't much you can do with your current hardware in that area. That would mean new motherboard, new RAM and new processor. Which is quite expensive. Pretty much half of a new computer.
Please get an SSD, it's so worth it. 275GB's are ~$80 now
Your build looks good. For a white case check out the NZXT S340 White. As for the SSD, I personally would get at least a 250gb so you can put some games on it as well. For reference, BF3 on my SSD loads in 20 seconds and BF4 on my HDD takes around 60-90 seconds to load. There's nothing wrong with waiting but after you've experienced the speed of an SSD everything on a HDD just feels sooo slow. For the same price of the 120gb m.2 you can get a Crucial MX300 525GB SSD. Thats like 4x the storage for the same price granted the MX300 SATA read /write speeds is less than the 850 Evo M.2. The MX300 is still faster than a HDD though so IMO its definitely worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O SSD's are considerably faster in the read/write department when compared to a traditional disk drive. It allows your PC to boot much faster and any games you place on the SSD will load much faster. They are a delight.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482990894&sr=1-2&keywords=crucial+ssd
If you're buying one, you can get a 1TB SSD for around $300, so that is pricey and I'm not sure who would spend that much money just for that. If the difference is enough then I may, but might opt for a 512GB for around $130.
But when you think of the people who may have older 256GB or 512GB that they've upgraded from that they could throw in the PS4 Pro or just purchase one for $70, it may make sense depending on how much of a boost you get, hence why I plan on doing some testing. Right now it's varying by a huge degree from what I've seen and some people are getting 20-50% faster load times on other games.
And while yes I would agree that 256GB is rather small, it's still enough to fit 5-10 games as long as people are willing to delete and re-download games they don't play as often.
You don't need to do this though, it will perform better but it's not needed unless your hard drive is failing. Just do a fresh restore.
You could just do it your self,, I've replaced my SSD for my MacBook Pro, was super easy. I fix it has very in depth steps. Use disk utility to format new SSD and install new software.
SSD: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01IAGSD5O/ref=mh_s9_acsd_top_bT8M1X_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-4&pf_rd_r=G5SQGWG552F41QE9CA24&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=af5ef1b0-5f9e-5a36-a018-08e600020206&pf_rd_i=430505031&th=1&psc=1
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac+Mini+Late+2012+Hard+Drive+Replacement/11716
Recently, the SDD that I store windows and a majority of my data on, this one, with virtually no warning was no longer showing up in the BIOS, leaving my PC in the state as if it was before I had installed windows. After checking, all of the cables were properly connected. I had switched out the Sata Data cable with another cable from another drive that was functioning, into a different Sata port on the mother board, and it is still not recognized. Is this potentially a result of the drive failing, and if so, what is the best way for me to test for that and potentially recover my data?
Better build quality PSU
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/9q4NnQ/evga-power-supply-220g20650y1
Cheaper 275GB SSD (on sale)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IAGSD5O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
No problem. If you don't need SSD only, you can always get a good hybrid drive that will set you up with a couple TB of storage for a lot cheaper than a SSD. Still get a SSD to run for a boot drive at the least however.
​
These WD 1TB's will get the job done for a cheaper as well. Their M.2 sells for the same price.
Wanting to get a 1TB SSD for my PC. I don't have a specific budget set, but I'm trying to go for the cheapest option that doesn't make major sacrifices to quality. I had the 860 EVO recommended to me, and I had the Western Digital Blue and Crucial MX500 recommended if they are more than $5 cheaper than the EVO.
Could I get a second opinion on them? Thanks!
The best non-Samsung SATA SSD is probably the WD Blue 3D NAND @ $180.
For what it's worth, there's really no issues dealing with Samsung warranty, so long as you know to contact TotalTS (Samsung's SSD service provider), and not Samsung Canada (who service TVs and fridges and the like).
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zZc7Cb3KWDY0Q
Something like this. It would be way faster loading up games hell even windows and is less prone to getting screwed up. It would be worth it.
>WDS100T2B0A
Yes, just be careful not to get the M.2 or PCI versions. For example, this one should work on a standard SATA drive connector:
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/
​
This one is an M.2. style, which would *NOT* fit your board
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT
​
The model #'s are pretty similar, but you can see from the pictures that they're quite different (M.2 is a chip style, whereas the standard SATA is roughly the size of a laptop drive). Note that while standard SSH's are the size of 2.5" laptop drives, most come with a little plate or whatever to fit a full-size (3.5") bracket for desktops
I suggested a more reliable motherboard because you don't want a 10 hours rendering to fail in the middle when the PC shuts down and restarts due to stability. I recommend getting an even better (and expensive) model but you're already reluctant to spend an extra cad$20 for the Aorus M.
SSD: sorry, I didn't notice it. Consider the mainstream WD Blue rather than the budget SSD PLUS.
Bought the wd blue 3D ssd from amazon and is working fine so far
Link for anybody who wants to know what ssd I got that is working now WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ThHRDb8DGA0PP
Either WD Blue or Crucial MX500
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=1tb+2.5%22+ssd&qid=1572201841&s=electronics&sr=1-9
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B077SF8KMG/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=1tb+2.5%22+ssd&qid=1572201865&s=electronics&sr=1-10
I went pretty simple. I went with a WD Blue 1TB 3D NAND.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBQMCX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's reasonably priced, and you can grab a external case no problem. Now I have two external HDD. One with the games I don't mind a little bit of loading, and one for the core games I play routinely, like Destiny or Witcher 3. The best part of Xbox is being able to have not only multiple drives, but moving games from one to the other quickly and easily.
I was going to get two of these and put them in RAID0 instead of the WD Blue that is on sale but this one is limited to one per customer :/
WD Blue 1TB (for those curious):https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073SBQMCX
Here's a great deal on a 750W PSU https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVGA-SuperNOVA-750-G1-80-Plus-Gold-750W-10-Year-Warranty-120-GP-0750-X1-/263997881387
Also I think this is a really good price for a 1TB SSD https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBQMCX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ok, so this PC build is a little over the $700, coming in about $800-ish after taxes. I did go with a Ryzen 7 due to the benefits of extra cores for graphic design and other workstation tasks that you may be doing in the future. This PC should run the vast majority of 1080p games at Maximum settings and can even handle moderate 1440p gaming. Every component is found on Amazon.
I also went with a more compact, grey design that really makes your build blend in with the desktop environment while still looking beautiful from the outside. The mATX form factor also means that your PC could fit into tight spaces.
Hope you enjoy this build.
CPU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B41717Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1GRTT9GHGRY0B&psc=1
GPU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RQ325DW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
RAM: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6JPLJ2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBZ8YH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
HDD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
MOBO: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKV5HWJ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
PSU: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Modular-Warranty-110-BQ-0600-K1/dp/B01MTJTO2O/ref=sr_1_5?crid=34A5HCFYBJ315&keywords=600%2Bwatt%2Bpower%2Bsupply&qid=1565020347&s=electronics&sprefix=600%2Bw%2Celectronics%2C141&sr=1-5&th=1
CASE: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N99WHP1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I was thinking about going for this SSD for windows and this HDD for Windows
The M6700 is going to use a standard 2.5" laptop hard drive of any capacity. For pretty cheap, you could pick up an SSD. (I grab these ones for work:)[https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=500gb+ssd&qid=1563549308&s=gateway&sr=8-4]
​
Pop that in, install windows again, and that will be a fantastic machine for what you want to do.
SSDs are like mega cheap right now and I've picked up 500 GB SATA ones for the builds I've done for others. If you're U.S. based this SSD can be had for 65 USD.
Dude. You have an awesome computer. Lemme help you out. Hold please.
ESYNIC Hard Drive Caddy Tray 2.5" 2nd HDD SDD Kit 9.5mm SATA HDD SSD Adapter Optical Bay Drive Slot for MacBook Pro Unibody 13 15 17 SuperDrive DVD Drive Replacement Only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15ZVKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tmZJBbN8HT9YN
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s 2.5"/7mm Solid State Drive - WDS500G2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JnZJBbC2V2VQ5
16GB Memory Kit (2x8GB) for Apple Macbook and Macbook Pro Mid-2012 PC3-12800 1600MHz Ram A1278 A1286 MD101LL/A MD102LL/A MD103LL/A MD104LL/A MD102LL/A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3QE8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_coZJBbSXK3DXV
Samsung SSD warranty has been shit for years.
If anyone's looking for SSD makers with good service, I'd recommend WD. I've done several WD HDD RMAs painlessly and successfully. They're located in the GTA area so you don't have to pay too much for shipping. The turn around time were around 3-5 business days each time.
WD sells NVMe m.2 SSDs as well as SATA in 2.5 form factor and m.2. They are priced better than the Samsungs as well. I don't know too much about long term quality, but so far the reviews for these units are quite good. I personally run a WD Blue m.2 SSD as my game drive/storage. And clarify that I'm not a shill, I use a Samsung EVO 960 512GB as my main boot drive. I'm very happy with my Samsung EVO as well as my WD. I just don't like Samsung's warranty service.
You just swap the internal hard drive with the ssd. It’s about 2mins work to swap it over. There’s an access plate on the back to do it as well. Then you need to download the PS4 firmware onto a usb stick to then install onto the new ssd and that’s it really. Watch a YouTube video on upgrading PS4 to ssd. Simple stuff.
Western Digital WDS500G2B0A WD Blue 3D NAND Internal SSD 2.5 Inch SATA, 500 GB https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B6S2Cb49E05AG
Yes, the UI will benefit as well. If you are looking for load time improvement absolutely snag an SSD.
I just snagged this guy
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-t5-500gb-external-usb-type-c-portable-solid-state-drive-alluring-blue/6026201.p?skuId=6026201
You may be able to go cheaper or smaller. The Xbox One supposedly only works with drives 256GB and up, but people have reported 250GB drives working just fine.
Your other option would be to get an internal SSD like this one
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH?keywords=ssd&qid=1537845235&sr=8-1-spons&ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa&psc=1
And nabbing an enclosure like this
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-5-inches-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B01N5RLG2C?crid=2V660C4JJT86R&keywords=2.5+hard+drive+enclosure&qid=1537845347&sprefix=2.5&sr=8-4&ref=mp_s_a_1_4
Could save you a couple bucks
If it's just a hard drive, any run of the mill 2.5" hard drive or SSD will work. They are not proprietary.
It would blaze with this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Western-Digital-WDS500G2B0A-Blue-Internal/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=500gb+ssd&qid=1571859884&sr=8-3
https://support.apple.com/en-ca/HT201608
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Unibody+Model+A1342+Hard+Drive+Replacement/1670
Well the size/speed will entirely depend on your budget. I can make some suggestions, but any SSD I'd recommend would be worlds faster than your current hard drive.
https://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-75E500B-AM/dp/B00OBRE5UE/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1527704323&sr=1-4
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1527704323&sr=1-2
https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-480GB-Solid-SA400S37-480G/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1527704418&sr=1-10
I'd probably go with them in order - first being highest rated for speed and such. The second is also excellent. The bottom one is slightly slower (Not super noticeable) and MUCH cheaper. Great on a budget.
I've done all these updates/upgrades to my x250.
External batteries and chargers can be found on Amazon easily. For whatever reason the internal ones are all third party. I've use a third party internal battery and it worked fine, but degraded quickly (I'm actually looking to replace it again now). On the charger I like to get a longer cable for the wall to brick part. It's a standard cable you can get for a $8 and I highly recommend it. Link for the longer cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JBDY3GS
For a 16GB memory module, I used the "Mem Store" one from eBay and it works fine. Some places have reported certain memory modules don't work. That one does. It's about ~$80 right now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-16GB-SODIMM-1x16GB-PC3L-12800-Memory-Thinkpad-X250-5TH-GEN-I3-I5-I7-ONLY/191609325156
Laptopscreens.com has a FHD LCD panel that works good. You can also find that seller on eBay. You don't need anything special to do the swap, although a few guitar picks helps to start the bezel. Just be patient when removing the screen bezel so you don't break it. This is the one I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LCD-Screen-for-Lenovo-Thinkpad-X240-X250-00HM745-LP125WF2-SP-B2-IPS-FHD/282811633253
The SSD is pretty straight forward, just get a sata one in your desired capacity and swap it. I personally went for a WD Blue 500GB and it's been great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBZ8YH
I agree with /u/xcyu SSD and FHD screen will be the most noticeable upgrades.
Here's my SSD for 35 bucks. It's fantastic, aaaand cost effective! Don't forget to buy a housing too!
Silicon power 256GB
The "Cheap" solution that have been posted on this sub is
This SSD
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP256GBSS3A55S25/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=ssd&qid=1555536783&s=gateway&sr=8-13
Matched with this enclosure
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you want a bigger, or better SSD, the recommendation would be something from Samsung.
Im near broke but I need an SSD for my PC. Which SSD do I want Evo 860 250GB $90 or Silcon Power 256GB $60 Id like to save that ~$30 if there isn't much of a difference
Do you know how it would compare to this one? Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FtC1BbBZC18EF
The fist suggestion most people will have is put that money into getting a newer machine. I'm in the same boat but if you'd like some suggestions for what hardware to get for upgrading your machine here are some:
4GB RAM (MAX)
SSD
Tried to keep things cheap. For the OS 10.6.8 snow leopard is pretty good. :)
This is perfect! Thank you so much!!
So you have this SSD and then this enclosure, right?
So theoretically if I wanted more space I could go with this 1TB SSD?
I just bought these a couple weeks ago for my 1X and they’ve worked great:
256 GB SSD ($31)
USB3 SSD Enclosure
These were the best deals I could find... very well reviewed and work great. Buildings are rendered before I land (weapons take another 0-2 seconds). I got 256 GB because it’s the minimum needed for Xbox and I mostly just wanted it for PUBG. If you want to put a lot of games on it though then I’d get a bigger drive and maybe look at SSHD options (cheaper but supposedly work about as well). Main things I checked were read/write speeds, price, and reviews (specifically reviews mentioning Xbox).
Trust me, for the performance boost you get, this is NOT unreasonably expensive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/
SSD missing? Grab a https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=250gb+ssd&qid=1573676628&sr=8-5 at 28 bucks. It's a good boot drive and with AMD StorageMI, you can combine a hdd and a ssd into one large fast drive.
Welcome, by the way.
I know it's not much of a price difference but how much faster is this drive compared to this?
I think your best bet would probably be one of these Silicon Power 256GB SSDs from Amazon. Link.
They aren't the most well known brand and they aren't as good as something like a Samsung SSD, but most people find they work well and at only $63.99 US I'm pretty sure it's the best you're going to get storage wise without increasing your price range a bit or buying something used or completely unknown from eBay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RJS55D/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526590738&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=silicon+ssd&dpPl=1&dpID=51D0eaOybdL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S
Silicon Power 256GB SSD 3D NAND With R/W Up To 550/450MB/s A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP256GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RJS55D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mk--AbYMA0AFD
If you need recommendations, These are the exact ones I purchased, but basically just look for good price and decent ratings on amazon. Make sure to get a good usb 3.0 enclosure too, if you didn’t know that already, ssd’s won’t come with a way to connect to USB already in the box.
enclosure
ssd
Edit: looks like I was off by $3. The total is about $43 (before tax, prime shipping).
Amazon is also selling it for the same price: http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-2-5-Inch-SDSSDHII-240G-G25-Newest-Version/dp/B00M8ABEIM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409623290&sr=8-1&keywords=SanDisk+Ultra+II+SDSSDHII-240G
Prime eligible.
I was on a budget and picked up this one.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-240G-G25/dp/B00M8ABEIM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522671064&sr=8-4&keywords=sandisk+240+ssd&dpID=41sbX%252B6g4PL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
No more squishy houses. Load into the lobby with plenty of time to punch everyone in the nuts. No complaints.
Personally i would recommend changing your power supply to [this] (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371073&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=)
Personally i would get rid of that garbage CX series power suppy and go for the one i linked instead. It has 5 year warranty and very good build quality. It will be futureproof in case you ever decide to upgrade.
The 750W may seem like overkill now but it will last you a long time with great performance.
If you don't want to spend the $69.99 i would recommend getting the EVGA 500W B power supply which is $40.
You could also save roughly $26 with this instead of the ssd you listed above. It has pretty much the same performance.
This OCZ was and this Sandisk is going for $84.99, which IMO is a pretty good deal. I'm currently waiting for the right deal on an ssd and these two were very tempting. Couldn't decide on the OCZ and not too sure about the Sandisk. Not a big deal though as I'm patient and can wait however long.
I did get a sweet deal on shadow of mordor for $19.99 so there's that.
edit: Got Wii U bundle with two games for $260 and Mario Kart 8 for $30. Today has been a good but expensive day.
I have this - http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Height-SDSSDHII-240G-G25/dp/B00M8ABEIM/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419386412&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=sandisk+ultra+ii+240ggbb
For $90
I've opened the box but still haven't taken it out of its anti-static bag.
SanDisk Ultra 2 240GB Lightning Sale right now $74.99
Well, mainly I needed a new CPU because my PC would shut off completely. I thought it was the PSU but when I ran Prime 95 and stress tested the CPU, I got the same result and my PC would shut off.
So I upgraded with these parts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EYYNP0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010T6CG7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (haven't installed this yet)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8ABEIM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (had a 200GB SATA HDD and it was old and slow. SSD has really helped the speed out)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MMLUYPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm keeping my eye out for the RX480 when that comes out. It's supposed to be as good as the GTX 980 and only cost $200. Waiting on benchmarks with heavy breathing.
I can already see a couple problems. Can you also specify what kind of graphics design do you? 2D or 3D? what programs? long render times?
The problems:
I see you have a CPU cooler but that is only needed if you are going to overclock your CPU. The CPU you have is not a K version ( the K version of your CPU is called i-5 6600K). You will need a K version CPU if you are going to overlock.
You can change the CPU to a i-5 6600K and look up a guide on how to overlock if you would like to get a extra ~25% performance. Also if you are overclocking you will need a motherboard that supports ocerlocking. If you don't want to overclock then you don't need to buy a CPU cooler.
I would get a single stick of 8GB RAM since it is easier to upgrade later on. You might also want to buy 16Gb of RAM but that depends on what graphical programs you use.
I always like to use SSD of knows brand, I don't know this brand but the reviews seem oke. I can maybe recommend you to buy a Sandisk Ultra II (64$ on amazon for one that only has damage to packaging). It is a bit more money but you will have a good SSD that is twice as big.
See /u/nokmanoks2
How do you manually add a part on PC Part Picker? For example, this Samsung Ultra II 240GB SSD is $100 on Amazon. (That's gotta be too good to be true, right? Or is it a rip off? I don't know!) But I can't find it anywhere under storage in the parts list.
I feel like your HDD is the bottleneck. You said it's out of your budget and that's fine, but there is nothing to add that would compensate for an SSD.
Consider getting a smaller, cheaper one? Not a 2 TB one, but the iMac has two bays, right? A 256 GB can be had for under $100 and you can use it for the OS and some apps but keep the data on the 2 TB.
Otherwise, the 12 GB of RAM is a lot and your CPU is just fine.
Downgrading the OS may help. I personally found Mavericks to be the last "snappy" OS on my 2010 MBP. High Sierra is just a mess right now with the betas so don't go there.
Here's the decent, cheap SSD. Just verify what type of SATA the 2011 iMac has. This is SATA III.
I ordered it through Amazon. I'm not a patient person dealing w/ lines and/or stupid shoppers. Plus I wanted to avoid sales tax.
Should get here Monday. It's the SanDisk Ultra II 240GB for $84
I agree, everything is max 30$ off....cyber monday should at least be 40% before even being consider a cyber monday deal....Really dissapointed...having said that, I did get a sweet ssd at a lighting deal friday for 74$...250g
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8ABEIM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
even with shipping handling and customs, its still a steal.
What about an Acer Aspire ES 15 ES1-512-C1YL?
Intel Celeron and 4 GB RAM and 500 GB HDD.
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B018486ZT4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B018486ZT4&linkCode=as2&tag=foli-15-bo-03-21
But if you know how to open a Notebook and can imagine to upgrade it with an addiitinal SSD (Sandisk suggestion from oez17 is super!) then try this refurbished business notebooks on amazon:
This Dell Latitude http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B004Y7GSC4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B004Y7GSC4&linkCode=as2&tag=foli-15-bo-03-21
or this Lenovo Lenovo ThinkPad T410
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00KY1GO0A/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B00KY1GO0A&linkCode=as2&tag=b34m3rd347er-21
However both Notebooks are well known as business notebooks. Our company for example prefers Dell Quality and our IT upgrades them with an ssd without any problems.
So my suggestion: Acer Aspire if you do not want to put hands on it or otherwise if you are able to open a notebook then Lenovo T410 or Dell Latitude and upgrade wit with this SSD from sandisk:
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00M8ABEIM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1638&creative=19454&creativeASIN=B00M8ABEIM&linkCode=as2&tag=foli-15-bo-03-21
Your total cost are around 280 EUR then.
Kind Regards
Technikgeiz
Oh, that's way more than enough! Heck you could even grab a good terabyte SSD for that much! I'd recommend Samsung SSDs, since they've been proven to last for quite a bit longer than most competitors. Here's a 250, a 500, and a TB. $85, $140, and $285, respectively. I'd personally recommend the 500 GB, as it has a good Price/Capacity ratio. (I also own one myself!)
TL;DR: If the computer that you're looking for has support for an M.2 SSD, you can have both the SSD and the HDD. Otherwise, you'll have to change the HDD for an SSD. Getting an SSD will be expensive, but if you opt for the laptop that already has an SSD, you will be completely unable to upgrade the graphics card. You may want to employ your local nerd to help you change your OS data over to the new SSD. Expect to spend about $300 on the upgrade, but realize that adding an SSD makes the laptop feel faster, not game better.
_____
Look to see if the laptop has support for a m.2 SSD slot. If so, you can have both an SSD and the 1TB HDD for storage/games.
The major improvement for having an SSD is reduced loading times of data that would typically be on the HDD. This means you computer boots in seconds (usually <5 seconds, after the splash screen/logo goes away), has minimal lagging after boot, and storage of any large files are infinitely faster.
However, you are looking at some major costs for an SSD drive: a 1 TB drive looks like it will run you just shy of $300 for either the m.s or a traditional SSD. However, a traditional 1TB laptop HDD will run you as little as $50, and if you step up to a higher performance drive, the price will almost certainly stay below $70.
It is worth noting that with most computers, the HDD will make them feel slow, as loading programs bogs the drive down, especially at startup. However, for gaming, there is no impact on performance aside from loading times. Certainly, the graphics card will have a much larger impact on gaming performance.
As far as how easy the upgrade will be, it should be noted that whether you change to a traditional SSD or to an M.2 SSD, you will have to migrate your OS files over to the SSD in order to see any improvement in speed. This can be a marginally difficult process, so ask your local computer nerd for any recommendations. Generally, the moving of the data is the most difficult part, and swapping the physical drives is no more difficult than upgrading the RAM would be.
A person who can come over and do the process for you will almost always be more helpful than a stranger on reddit. (Especially since said person/friend can see and touch the laptop, here on reddit we only have this forum-text stuff to go by ;)
*Note: The links given are for reference only. I do not endorse any of the brands, and I'm almost certain that you can find better deals and/or higher quality products out there if you search around.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483532764&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evo%2Bssd%2B1tb&amp;th=1
then stick the old hd in an external enclosure for storage/backup.
No, a 1 TB SSD is actually closer to $300.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSDUE/ref=twister_B01IB47HBG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497739090&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=850%2Bevo&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-960GB-Solid-SDSSDA-960GB-G26-Laptop/dp/B01LY5ZZ4P/ref=sr_1_6_f_f_it?s=amazonfresh&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497739137&amp;sr=1-6&amp;ppw=fresh&amp;keywords=1+tb+ssd
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXPENRR/ref=twister_B01N26TZ6M?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Close enough
also these ssds they are better http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E1T0B-AM/dp/B00OBRFFAS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419760468&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=tb+ssd
Anyone know what's the current best price price for a good 1tb ssd is?
_____
This $250 850 EVO on amazon seems hard to beat but dont want to get it if there is likely to be a better price on something today.
You could have a failing hard drive. But as others have said, a Solid State Drive will do wonders. The computer will boot in less than 30 seconds, and launch apps so much faster than before.
You will need to back everything up on your computer before you get started.
happens within 5-10 seconds for me.
using this setup:
I have my res scaled at 150%, all settings on Ultra. GPU limit off. Nvidia Control panel I have all the settings for BF1 set to override to the highest setting if possible.
> BenQ XL2720Z @ 1920 x 1080
> OP: Windows 7 64-bit
> CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.00GHz (No Overclock)
> RAM: 16GB Corsair DDR3 @ no clue... (2 x 8 GB)
> GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW (No Overclock) 08G-P4-6286-KR
> DISC: Samsung 850 EVO 1TB
Don't abandon the HDD. An SSD with enough storage space to cover windows installation, programs and games would be extremely expensive. Unless you can spare an extra 300 USD?
As I mentioned in my other comment the best thing for you to do is get a small SSD to run windows off - then have all your extra stuff (which doesn't need to go super fast) on the HDD.
This would keep you closer to the price range of 60 USD or 80 USD.
Okay. Most Laptops take 2.5 inch drives. That's the size of SSD on Amazon.
1TB SSD is 327, still cheaper than a Nintendo Switch...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OBRFFAS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505418600&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=samsung%2B500%2Bssd&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41fw65-8tpL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Where are you? Amazon says the EVO 1TB is in stock and as of this post they can deliver it by Saturday.
I am using the MSI B450I and can confirm that it is working just fine with a non beta, stable bios. In fact, for the ITX boards the beta bios was working alright for me long before other boards were working well (looking at you Asus). The only downside is you need it flashed if you don't already have an older zen CPU.
I helped a friend build with the Gigabyte X570 and it's working just fine as well, it's a really great board. However, keep in mind you could really save some money and get the MSI board. Also, in terms of VRM's is the best you can buy. The fact that it just plain works (once you update the bios), is an added bonus considering how new everything is.
Concerning GPU, if you are willing to wait until next month, you will be able to buy open air coolers from other manufacturers. I don't have a 580, but my understanding is that it's fine. However, the 5700xt is much more powerful. I imagine that an open air Gaming X version from MSI will run basically silent. I'm sure other brands will produce silent amazing cards as well.
For memory, consider getting some Micron E-die, they overclock VERY well, and are only ~1mm taller than the LPX you have listed. Mine are running at 3600 cl 16 via MSI's "Memory Try It!" functionality. Basically, it's a single button overclock on your memory so you don't have to do it yourself. It's rock solid stable too.
Finally, concerning the NVME drive you have listed, it's 100% true that Samsung makes amazingly fast NVME drives and are arguably the best you can buy. However, are you really going to notice fractional seconds of load time over say a 1 or 2TB intel 660p? I'm currently running the 2TB 660p that I got for $200, and you can get a 1TB model for $95. That's double the space, for essentially the same performance. I understand the Samsung numbers are much higher, but those only really apply to specific applications like heavy database I/O. For day to day users and gaming, you won't be able to tell the difference. If you really want the 970 Evo because you want it, go for it, buy what you want. If you want more space for effectively the same performance, buy the 660p, I can confirm that it flies, and is amazing. I am so happy I bought it over the Samsung, because I have double the space for the same price and effectively the same speed.
&#x200B;
Hope this was helpful, and enjoy your Dan Case, it's an amazing case.
Your CDI pic is currently just your timestamp again and like someone else pointed out, the going rate is a quite bit lower:
https://www.newegg.com/intel-660p-series-1tb/p/N82E16820167462
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4
Edit: Saw edit. Makes more sense for 2TB.
Its on Amazon both 512gb and 1Tb https://www.amazon.com/Intel-660p-1-0TB-80mm-978350/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=Intel+660p+Series+M.2+2280+512GB+PCI-Express+3.0&amp;qid=1549691597&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0
One thing I'm noticing is the non-modular PSU. I would look at getting something that is fully modular, or even semi-modular. It's just easier to work with and I think easier to mantain better cord management.
For the CPU, I would take a look at the 9400 not the 9400F. As far as I can tell, at least in the states, the 9400 is the same price, it's just slightly faster and a bit newer.
The SSD - the 750 Evo seems more expensive than what it's worth. I would take a look at an NVMe drive like the Intel 660p. For 1TB of space, your getting something that is much MUCH faster and, at least in the states, is only $4 more expensive:
Intel SSD 660p Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GCL6BR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_85L2CbQP2JY6Y
Then, this way, if you get the faster Intel SSD, you can ditch the HDD, because you'll have 1TB as a boot drive and storage, most likely saving another $50 as well.
EDIT: Also, it seems like the case you're looking at is a full-ATX (correct me if I'm wrong) so then why are you going for a mATX board? You could get something a bit faster, better with cooling, and probably cheaper if you got a full-sized board like this one:
MSI Performance Gaming B360 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CBKQ75V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_agM2CbBWA8CJP
Same price in the USA as the board you've chosen.
Edit 2: Also, I can't find the PSU anywhere come to think of it. Don't buy a used PSU, that is one of the general no-nos, because those things deteriorate over time, what you think is a 500W is possibly only 350W to 400W. Stick with EVGA or Corsair even SeaSonic.
I gotta ask how long ago you bought an NVMe M.2 SSD, because currently, an NVMe M.2 SSd is virtually the same price as a SATA SSD.
Crucial MX500 SSD 1TB, the most common sata SSD I see recommended around here; $129.
Intel 660p SSD 1TB, the most commonly recommended consumer NVMe SSD; $109, with triple of the speed of the MX500.
It feels like a lot of people around here built their computers 6+ months ago and haven't checked the prices since; NVMe SSDs certainly used to carry a price premium, but these days they are barely any different.
SSDs can be made with different types of NAND flash. The EVO uses TLC NAND, and the QVC uses QLC NAND. QLC is slower, and has worse endurance. TLC is not top shelf, but better than QLC.
However, you probably won't notice a speed difference unless you're a video editor or have some other super heavy workload. Likewise, the endurance issue is not really going to be a problem for a normal user. Get the cheaper QVO unless you're editing 8k video all day every day.
Or better yet, get the 1tb Intel 660p for $109. It's QLC like the QVO, but uses the nVME connection, which is a faster than than SATA. An nVME QLC drive will be faster than a SATA TLC drive, as SATA is a bottleneck (one of the reasons why the QVO and EVO are so similar, the speed of SATA is a limiting factor). It also regularly goes on sale for around $95 .
But if you're editing 8k video you'd probably want to upgrade to higher end SSD like SX8200 Pro or 970 EVO (but they're roughly 2x the cost)
The Adaata XPG SX8200 1TB is a good balance of performance/cost: https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/
Review: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13112/the-adata-sx8200-gammix-s11-nvme-ssd-review
May be slightly over your £100 limit depending on the sale.
https://www.newegg.com/samsung-970-evo-plus-500gb/p/N82E16820147742
Link is just an example, but it's a solid drive. They go on sale occasionally. Doesn't get much more simple than that, no need for the two sata cables. It slides into a slot and is held down by a screw. The 500GB will hold your OS and a fair amount of games for around $100. I have a 250GB I use as a boot drive in one computer. In another I have this (again just for reference. Quite a bit cheaper than the Samsung and also well reviewed.
Then you can always add more drives at a later time if need be. You can link most game clients to different locations for games. So it won't matter for that.
Edit: Someone just posted this 500GB NVME drive for $50. Your board has two NVME slots it looks like. As long as you aren't planning on doing SLI or something crazy you'd have 1TB of storage for $100+ tax. Or do the logical thing and pay the $10 more for the 1TB version.
This is probably the best price to performance NVME SSD you cant get atm: https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
Edit: I do NOT use affiliate links.
The Dell Precision 7530 (15") and 7730 (17") (also consider the newer 7540 and 7740) should fit your needs quite well as their processors are a big step up from the i5-4200M in your former laptop (better architecture and process node, more cores). They can also probably handle virtual instrument workloads at lower-than-usual buffers. Since they are business laptops their reliability is above average -- and oh, you get a fingerprint reader too!
This 17-inch Precision 7730 on Amazon should serve you well with a healthy amount of storage to start you up and three spare NVMe SSD slots waiting for you to populate. Also consider this 15-inch Precision 7530 on Amazon with two spare NVMe slots.
If stock runs out, you can always order from Dell:
17" 7730 and 7740 (newer)15" 7530 and 7540 (newer)
Some options to prioritize:
The xx40 models offer newer 9th gen Intel processors, which don't really make much of a difference when compared to 8th gen (unless you want to get a Core i9 -- a 9th gen i9 has eight cores while an 8th gen i9 has six).
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-500GB-Ultra-NAND-SATA/dp/B072R78B6Q/ref=sxin_4_ac_d_pm?keywords=sandisk+ssd&pd_rd_i=B072R78B6Q&pd_rd_r=6e48913a-82f5-47ee-a878-bba6330f0011&pd_rd_w=ouwib&pd_rd_wg=eDL6g&pf_rd_p=64aaff2e-3b89-4fee-a107-2469ecbc5733&pf_rd_r=9ZFFWMG7WH4XJZZRQ87D&qid=1563622854&s=gateway my ssd. Marginally (almost certainly not noticeably) faster speeds, but it's a trusted brand.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=870+evo&qid=1563623512&s=gateway&sr=8-1 Arguably the best SATA SSD you can buy, and is very reasonably priced. Well trusted, better technology than off-brand gives better random seek times etc. Definitely worth having. Maybe 10% faster in general than yours or mine
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=adata+nvme&qid=1563623699&s=gateway&sr=8-1 The best bang for your buck if you're taking the next step up into the NVME world MAKE SURE YOUR BOARD HAS THE SLOT FOR IT. roughly 7 times the speeds of the first two ssd mentioned. Significantly higher price per gig
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-Plus-MZ-V7S1T0B/dp/B07MFZY2F2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=970+evo+pro+plus&qid=1563624021&s=gateway&sr=8-1 The flagship. Everybody seems to need one. Marginally better than the previous mention in reality. YOU WILL NOT NOTICE A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO UNLESS YOU ARE SPECIFICALLY TESTING THEM.
This thread is about month old so not sure if I'll get a response.
I bought this M.2 Drive for my secondary drive and it did not work. It either would not load windows from the primary after installation or the disk manager would not detect even if the BIOS did. What makes it different than the Crucial M.2 or the Sabrent both which have been claimed to work?
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I'm pretty much having this exact issue.
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EDIT: I returned the ADATA drive and bought the Sabrent. The Sabrent worked fine when I restarted my computer once after the installation.
Just to give you a heads up, your SX8200 Pro link got eaten by the spam filter. In the future, posting links without the URL suffix that contains search information will avoid the problem. Example:
> https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
Cheers!
i want to buy the nvme for windows 10 and for some games
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so which is better?
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which is better from these 2? and which is faster?
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-1TB-MZ-V7E1T0BW/dp/B07BN217QG
This SSD sits between a 970 Evo and 970 Pro.
ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB 3D NAND NVMe Gen3x4 PCIe M.2 2280 Solid State Drive R/W 3500/3000MB/s SSD (ASX8200PNP-1TT-C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1J3C23/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OUa5CbZM123VN
Curious, have you checked to see if its firmware is up to date? Also, I'm looking at other peoples postings of crystal disk mark on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23#customerReviews I don't know if you've checked it out yet. Seems your getting exactly what everyone gets if not better.
If you are about to spend 150 usd on a 1 tb ssd might as well get this one https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23/ Stellar performance and pricing.
Also the PSU seems a litlte expensive and too little wattage which may hurt on your next upgrade, i would suggest waiting for a sale.
For motherboards you dont need to go too expensive on them Z390 Pro is like 120 usd, get a better cpu cooler instead.
1440p 21:9 is hard to run, consider refurbished 1080tis
Going off of this list, you shouldn't have any real issues. The m.2 drive warning is just letting you know that any SATA drive plugged in needs to be on a different port than where the m.2 is going to disable. Check the motherboard manual, it should tell you when you're building.
The clearance warning for the cooler shouldn't be a big issue either, I've built with the Cooler Master 212 and Corsair Vengeance before and had no issues.
You can always go with a lesser m.2 drive as well to save a few dollars. Most people won't notice the difference between the Samsung 970 Evo and something like the ADATA drive (which can be generally found for less on sale) or the Sabrent drives.
If I'm incorrect on anything, someone please let me know.
If you buy from ADATA on https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B07K1J3C23/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new , there are no taxes, whereas you have to pay GST/HST if you buy from Deal Targets. You save 7$ and free 1 day shpping if you have Prime.
For about 50 bucks more you can pick up a ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB 3D NAND NVMe on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
I've been using this as my main drive since Feb.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ADATA-SX8200-Gaming-Solid-State/dp/B07K1J3C23
You can order them from Amazon.de with free shipping. They are around 900kr/120€ for the 1TB model, and much better than the p1/660p.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07P9PCCHL?linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;smid=A341W8HQ7F4J0J&amp;creativeASIN=B07P9PCCHL&amp;tag=geizhals10-21&amp;ascsubtag=MZ10CTMKy9YaecOcZyO1A
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07LGF54XR?linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;smid=A3OPWMF9XBYSSI&amp;creativeASIN=B07LGF54XR&amp;tag=geizhals10-21&amp;ascsubtag=NFFBbRe3173wO0FuujP9Qw
even the better sx8200pro for 5€ more:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07K1J3C23?linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;smid=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&amp;creativeASIN=B07K1J3C23&amp;tag=geizhalspre03-21&amp;ascsubtag=QE7stJYH0ZYvgEE9KhPpmw
Intel 660p is slow better you buy 1tb Adata SX8200 Pro
https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1J3C23
Price only 162 USD
the ssd isn't bad but a well known brand may serve better. this is a little pricier but adata is a well known company and currently the fastest M.2 nvme pcie 3.0 ssd https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K1J3C23/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07K1J3C23&linkCode=as2&tag=techy067-20&linkId=df95230ca0c61f24fd40f75ac35c90d6
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as far as that aio goes it will fit but will have to be mounted in front. if you wanted to mount a radiator on top you'd either have to pick a new case or smaller aio.
Amazon has a $20 coupon that can be applied, and tax doesn't seem to be charged when at the final checkout review in Ontario at least.
It isn't the lowest price according to CCC, which was very briefly $224.00. Unsure if it was also tax free at the time, or if it had coupons.
CCC: https://ca.camelcamelcamel.com/XPG-SX8200-Pro-Gen3x4-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/product/B07K1J3C23
Review: https://www.anandtech.com/show/13759/comparing-adata-sx8200-pro-vs-hp-ex950
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-256-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=m.2%2Bssd&amp;qid=1562277273&amp;s=gateway&amp;smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;th=1
I would Add an m.2 nvme drive and it would be very good.
The ssd helps so much it will make the computer way faster
Switch this for your hard drive. You can always add a hard drive later if you need more storage
$60
Sabrent 512GB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-512) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DqQoDbPYNDV5B
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16822184773?item=N82E16822184773&amp;source=googleshopping&amp;nm_mc=knc-googleadwords-mobile&amp;cm_mmc=knc-googleadwords-mobile-_-pla-_-hard+drives-_-N82E16822184773&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&amp;&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw_uDsBRAMEiwAaFiHa1dh1Yv7FUYS92iAhhDMpU3qRTJgDtOg9FfIar8k6ksVj2ATF3vycxoCmSwQAvD_BwE
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-SB-ROCKET-512-Rocket-Internal-Performance/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=asc_df_B07KGMBCKD/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=319216790773&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=5175878324573050050&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9032854&amp;hvtargid=pla-637438133190&amp;psc=1
Here's the links
Edit: Drop the 3600x for the 3600 and the 970, use the money saved to get a 1tb sabrent rocket.
It's not that complicated. https://www.crucial.com/usa/en/m2-ssds-common-questions
>Team MP32 512 GB M.2-2280
This is keyed for slots 22mm wide, and it's 80mm long. Thats the "normal" size for NVMe M.2 drives. It's commonly known as M.2 2280. This will fit your motherboard.
Regarding the x2/x4 this just means how many PCI-E lanes the drive will utilise for bandwidth. I don't know the specific technical information here but I am assuming as the drive does not reach the bandwidth of 4 PCI-E 3.0 lanes due to it's design, probably to save on costs it's only running off 2 PCI-E lanes.
Compare this to a higher performance NVMe SSD like the 970 Evo Plus which uses 4 lanes.
I suggest you look at the Sabrent Rocket if you want a drive that is higher performance but still relatively cheap.
This might have faster speeds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCM6DXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l0qUDbQPH2SPS
I think all B450 mobos (except Biostar B450MHC) have at least 1 m.2 2280 compatible socket, so it will work.
For 1TB, no RGB, no cables, this deal is way better:
https://www.microcenter.com/product/600422/inland-premium-1tb-ssd-3d-nand-m2-2280-pcie-nvme-30-x4-internal-solid-state-drive
Amazon also has it, but it's $10 more
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RCM6DXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Edit: your CPU of choice is on sale btw https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/dir2j8/cpu_amd_ryzen_5_2600_10999/
Go with the 3800x build, it has more threads for whatever applications you'll be using. The 9700k is limited to 8c/8t and won't be as good in productivity tasks.
One recommendation I would make to either build is to purchase a m.2 NVMe drive for about the same as the Samsung 860.
https://www.amazon.com/Inland-Premium-M-2-2280-Internal/dp/B07RCM6DXK
or
https://www.amazon.com/HP-EX920-Internal-Solid-2YY47AA/dp/B0795Z97K7/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ex920&amp;qid=1574835737&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-1
or
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07LGF54XR/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=sabrent+rocket+1tb&amp;qid=1574835753&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-2
I bought a 2019 Razer Blade 15" Advanced last month with a 256GB SSD along with a 1TB drive to replace it with. I initially installed Windows 10 on the new drive using a USB installer, but struggled to get drivers because there's no ethernet port and I didn't have a USB->RJ45 so I used Clonezilla to copy the 256GB's contents to the 1TB. This worked excellently until today (about a week and a half later), when it wouldn't boot and gave error 0xc0000034.
Rebooting with a USB Windows 10 install/repair drive returns unsuccessful messages for any attempted fixes ("you need to choose a Windows installation to do [x]"), and ones that require a reboot go back to the same screen. I tried following some suggestions for fixing it with command prompts but was unsuccessful there as well.
Where the weirdness really kicks off for me is that if I plug in the old drive, which I reformatted over a week ago, in an external USB-C enclosure it shows up as bootable.
Even weirder is that it will successfully boot into Windows - on the new drive. It runs completely normally unless I unplug the external drive, a couple seconds after which it will freeze. If I plug it back in it will unfreeze instantly, but 20-30 seconds after being disconnected and left out it will BSOD.
The BIOS and EC versions on Razer's website are 1.05 and 1.03 respectively; mine are both listed as 1.00.
I tried updating them and both installers gave me this message that they're "only for Blade and compatible systems."
Here's how both drives (with bonus Windows thumb drive) show up in the partition manager; disk 2 is the old one/external.
The external's main partition is completely empty.
Other miscellaneous attempted fix: One of the 3-star reviews on the new hard drive's Amazon page mentions an inability to be used as a boot drive, and a response says that it can be if CSM is disabled but I don't see a toggle in the BIOS currently.
Is my only option to nuke both drives and reinstall Windows from scratch, and if so will that continue to make the Razer installers not consider it a Razer laptop?
I'd snag one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N124XDS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3LGJ9ZB5RSN9T&amp;psc=1
and toss it in there, paired with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RCM6DXK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1UVTGP6WV0D1P&amp;th=1
Just my 2c!
Huge upgrades for ~$235
I have this laptop, I'm using the 250 gb version of this 850 evo (MZ-N5E250BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ckO6xbXJHHZKT
It's been running well since Feb, when I get home I can run some speed tests if you'd like.
IIRC the transfer of the OS was really painless as well.
Is your samsung the same as [this one?]
(https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-250GB-850-EVO-SATA/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465499709&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=samsung+850+evo+m.2)
> 250gb 850 evo
I'm going to guess you mean this one? https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468873314&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=250gb+850
You should get the Thinkpad 13 its good for taking notes, low end gaming. and many other things. I use it for school I just got mine in June since I am going to be using for school too. What you might want to do is get a new SSD for it since the one in it is laggish, get the Samsung 850 EVO.
http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/13-series/13-windows/
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469683303&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=samsung+850+evo+m.2
reddit.com/r/lowendgaming
Hope this helps you!
Edit: It also has a pretty responsive touchpad.
Thanks for the tips! This one?
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-250-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463806051&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=250gb+850+Evo+M.2+SSD
I couldn't see the official labeling/branding on the product. Just to be safe, get this. http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-250-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW
By chip cards, are you referring to M.2 SSDs? (Like this?: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467943519&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=m.2+ssd )
If so, you need to make sure your MOBO is compatible with M.2. While every drive is different, I would say they're faster on average.
i am using this one as my second ssd slot and it work nice . I never face any problem because i bought on black friday i got thing near $69 check it out
LINK
How muc was the SSD (It's actually 250gb):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473691132&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=256+gb+ssd+samsung
The laptop is not as heavy as some of the other gaming laptops out there, but it is not as light as a business grade one. I use it on the couch, coffee table, take it to the library, etc. It is not a workstation replacement for me, I still have a desktop that I use for most of my gaming/photography stuff. Overall I would say it's a good weight for the specs.
I just installed this SSD, incredibly easy to do and it works great. Mine came with the 1TB HDD so I am running my OS and a few games off of it.
Samsung 850 EVO - 250GB - M.2 SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-N5E250BW)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_D3qAyb1GVJQD7
SATA isn't really that large - it's just a connection interface. The slot supports both PCIe and SATA - you can get M.2 drives that have an SATA interface
Example: https://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW
M.2 is a form factor - and the board has allotted the physical spaaaaaace for an M.2 drive that uses a PCIe or SATA connection
Yep, that should work. You will need to take out the hard drive though. If you get a SATA based M.2 drive, you can put it in the M.2 slot, and leave the HDD in the 2.5" bay. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGIVZTW/?tag=pcpapi-20
You have a 32gb drive, which is super small. I'd clone that drive and replace it with something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-250-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457636903&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=m.2+drive
This Samsung 850 EVO is about equal to the Samsung 850 Pro but it doesn't use power or sata cables.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=25INFPFI9SDAJ&amp;coliid=I3ATE37DCC7HE4&amp;psc=1
Samsung 850 EVO - 250GB - M.2 SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-N5E250BW) $98.00
Try 105$ for the ram and another 100$ for the ssd.
Hey man. Kind of finalising my product list. Can you take a look and let me know if I am buying right or can use better options:
1.SSD:
Idk which one to buy from these 2:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E500BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542725999&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=samsung%2Bssd%2Bsata%2B3%2Bm.2&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864V6CK/ref=twister_B0797N5GWN?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
2.RAM:https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC3-12800-Unbuffered-204-Pin/dp/B006YG8X9Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542726116&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=crucial+8gb+ddr3l-1600+sodimm
3.Thermal paste:
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Compound-Performance-Interface/dp/B0795DP124/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542725832&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=arctic+silver+4
4.Cooling pad:
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-X3-Cooling/dp/B00EQV0VSU/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542724480&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=cooler%2Bmaster%2Bcooling%2Bpad&amp;th=1
Anything I can change. would prefer if there was anything I can get cheaper.
Looking at Amazon it seems there's three versions of SATA for SSDs. Since my current SSD doesn't specify which version of SATA it is, I'm guessing it would be SATA I. Would a SATA III drive like the Samsung 850 EVO MZ-N5E250BW still connect just fine?
Yes , you can add that SSD. And the good thing about adding the SSD yourself instead of paying for the laptop to come with it, is that it works out cheaper. For example , if you buy this Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB M.2 SSD, for $81 , it is larger than the 128 GB you would get pre-installed in that laptop for $100 more....It is also cheaper..
What do you mean can't be replaced? I'm pretty sure it's just a regular m.2 drive like this one http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-250-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/
Semi-ninja edit: Nope looks like a different connector https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Mac/MacBook-Air-11-Inch-Mid-2013-to-Early-2015-and-13-Inch-Mid-2013-to-Early-2014-SSD/IF188-105-5
Hi so would something like the Intel 600p be suitable?
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167412
Could I get away with this? or is the speed too slow?
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501307779&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=samsung+ssd+m.2
Thanks.
Samsung 850 EVO - 250GB - M.2 SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-N5E250BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_1ZL5ybWHB7V7X
Then just buy whatever usb 3.0 case. Battlefield loads superfast. You can usually be first one in.
M2 ssd my bad
Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB M.2 SSD (MZ-N5E250BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_uxMMwb8ME48ZY
I have never worked on a laptop do I need a certain cabling ? I found a canadian one and it seems fine
http://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-850-EVO-250-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453173878&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=SAMSUNG+850+EVO+2.5%22
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147398&amp;cm_re=Samsung_850_EVO_250GB-_-20-147-398-_-Product
Have this, love it.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PYZ0J6/ref=psdc_565108_t2_B015PYYDMQ
I also added this:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-250-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW/
and this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KQCOV5C
Edit: Wrong link.
I had my Macbook Pro stolen over the weekend, so I really had no other choice but to get an alternative computer. Ended up getting a Dell Inspiron i7559, gonna also pick up a 250 gb Samsung SSD 850 EVO this weekend.
So far I've had it for a day now and I can't complain. Dell actually outdid themselves with this laptop, and for nearly a quarter of the price of a Macbook Pro, IDK if you can go wrong.
My only strife is this computer doesn't have a Thundebolt 3 port, so any chance of using an external GPU setup went out the window (I know I can do a DIY setup still, but I'd rather not use the WiFi card PCIe slot).
You can also buy SATA SSDs that plug into an m.2 port, and they're cheaper than an NVME SSD. The price difference between a 2.5" SATA drive and an m.2 SATA drive is relatively negligible.
EDIT - Here's an 850 EVO m.2
Compared to an 850 EVO 2.5"
So it's a $9 difference to get rid of the cables.
EDIT AGAIN - Oh snap, the 960 Evo is only $12 more than the 2.5". Go with the NVME.
For example - https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E250BW/dp/B00TGIVZTW
It just fits in a different connector right on the motherboard.
Yes. Something to keep in mind though, if you want to use your m.2 port, they make sata versions of the 850.
Edit: Just saw you're using a laptop. You'll want to check your particular model to make sure it supports multiple 2.5" drives if you decide to go this route and want to keep your hdd.*
850 evo 250gb m.2 sata
It's close in price to the 2.5" version (5 bucks) and it makes for a little cleaner interior with its lack of cabling and whatnot. Not to mention you get to use that m.2 port.
250 is plenty for the os and a few games, just keep in mind that at around 75% capacity, many ssds will start to slow down some.
Ok thanks so much, you’re a gem. One final question. Will this be appropriate? It seems there’s a newer 960 - is that preferable or should this be more than enough?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00TGIVZTW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518728844&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=samsung+850&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=417M%2B-iF3iL&amp;ref=plSrch
[This is the one that I bought] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TGIVZTW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). It's big enough for Windows 10 and all the programs that I normally use and the increase in speed for something as simple as loading iTunes is pretty substantial.
I have read that the Samsung 950 Pro is faster than even this model but for right now this one works fine for me.
Exaclty! If you go with the cheaper option you can add in a SSD yourself! I'll take a look on how expensive they are right now
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00TGIVZTW/ref=pd_aw_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41TSFnqpChL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL130_SR130%2C64_&amp;refRID=5VAKDP3GJH2J6WBMAF5K
(Sorry for the disturbing link, I am using reddit on my phone at the moment)
If you were to add in this one, you could copy Windows to it and use it as a boot drive. You could store all your files on the HDD, and Windows on the SSD, so it boots quicker! I don't exactly know how much space Windows takes up, but it definetly isn't 250GB. I think you'll have around 120GB's of storage left on the SSD, whilst also having a whopping 1 TB left on the HDD.
I would go with the 1TB one, and add in the SSD right away. It's the best of two worlds :p
I own an older ghost which has 2x M.2(SATA) bays and 1x 2.5inch (SATA) bay, and from what I have seen yours has somewhat the same setup. So yes the 2.5in sandisk SSD you linked is compatible but it will replace your current hard drive. The rubber feet have disappeared over time for me and I have just given up on keeping them on but I would look for heat resistant super glue, dont know about the felt. If you want to replace/add an SSD without replacing your HDD then look for an 80mm SATA3 B+M keyed M.2 SSD. This is what I purchased to upgrade my laptop. Im not sure about the ribbon, but i would be happy to awnser any more questions
Okay, and if I can afford it, should I get this m2 instead of crucial: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TGIVZTW/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1_1_1?smid=AHG2MI785YUY7&amp;psc=1
This one says it's both m2, and sata 3?? Lol what
What is the difference between these?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TGIVZTW/
G. Skill Ripjaws (https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232090?Item=N82E16820232090)
Samsung SSD (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TGIVZTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Item
Price/unit
Quantity
Link
Asus X99-E-10G
649.99
1
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1279910-REG/asus_x99_e_10g_ws_lga_2011_v3.html
Intel Core i7 6850k
578.50
1
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-6850K-Processor-FC-LGA14A-BX80671I76850K/dp/B01FJLAITC
EVGA 1600W
339.99
1
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-PLATINUM-Warranty-220-P2-1600-X1/dp/B00NJG61JQ
Corsair LPX 32GB (2x16GB)
CMK32GX4M2A2666C16
189.99
4
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820233853
Samsung 950 Pro 512 GB NVMe m.2
338.20
1
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/
CHENBRO RM41300-FS81
163.99
1
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811123178
Noctua NH-U9S
57.99
1
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608067
I have ran into this a few times, two questions for you. Is it running more than one harddrive? Is it using a Samsung PCI SSD or something like it? Here is a link to what I am talking about: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M
So: I've just built my computer and I've had it for about 9 days now.
I have an M.2 (essentially PCI) SSD (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468245585&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=samsung+950+pro)
How is it?
Loading the OS: Boot time is about the same as a normal SSD. From what I hear the reason for this is because the motherboard has to load the samsung SSD drivers before it can begin the boot. All the time saved is simply filled in with loading the drivers.
Everything else: So far my experience has been that this SSD is lightning fast. However, I have yet to try games where loading screens are an item (Fallout 4?). Hopefully I'll try one of those by this weekend.
I agree. A Samsung 950 Pro M.2 would be sweet :)
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/
It would be a bit of a hassle, but I would get the 256, since the additional upgrade is already at $200 I'd use the 256 for a while until you are required to upgrade your storage and pick this up -
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463596339&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Samsung+M.2
That's at least what I plan on doing. I don't see my self installing every game that I play on the laptop because I have a PC that I do most of my gaming on, the laptop is more for the games that play more than others and will most likely be playing on the go when needed or at work.
And then, if you're already content with the storage you have on your PC, and your MOBO has a M.2 slot, stick the Razer OEM M.2 SSD in your PC, that way you don't just waste the storage.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M
Is this what youre referring to?
Will I see /actually get a significant performance boost using this?
Looks like the standard M.2 SSD, not NVMe, sadly. They usually do say that right on the box
Something like this, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01639694M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_d_XpKjxb1HAYCBR , is completely fine. But you void your laptop warranty when installing it on the razer blade stealth.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-X400-SSD-SATA-SD8SB8U-1T00-1122/dp/B0195B30KG
I thought the blade used an nvme not sata?
Like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01639694M/ref=psdcmw_1292116011_t1_B0195B30KG
Half the same build as mine. I think you will enjoy it. I'm iffy on the i7, but you it should last a while at least. I have an i5 4690k. For the case, I prefer my Phanteks Enthoo Pro. For Windows, I went with Pro, as I didn't need a lot of the features of Home. If you have the money for it, this is what I'm going to eventually: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01
Here's what I have to suggest for your situation.
I would reuse the CPU, RAM and purchase a:
ASRock Z97 Extreme6 motherboard $170
EVGA GeForce GTX 980ti 6GB $640
Another 850W PSU
Optional
Samsung 950 Pro M.2 SSD $320
This motherboard has NVMe support with a bios update. NVMe is a protocol that allows you to run a SSD thru PCIe lanes which are inherently faster than SATA.
It can't, however a proper replacement would be an NVMe drive. Like this one http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-512GB-PCIe-NVMe/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456621978&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=512gb+ssd
Can someone explain the difference between M.2 and PCIe? I want to use this SSD in a new build but even after research I don't really understand the difference between M.2 and PCIe.
Does this SSD plug into a PCIe slot? Or is there a specific "M.2" slot that the motherboard needs?
There's a couple kinds of SSD: 2.5" drives connected though SATA, PCIE based SSDs and then the dedicated slot M.2 and U.2.
SATA SSD speeds are limited by the SATA port itself but the drives are still much faster than spinning HDDs and are easy to install since they're compatible with any build.
PCIE based SSDs as I understand it were useful before M.2 and U.2 slots were as popular as they are now because you could still install them in any computer with a PCIE slot open. But they take up a lot of space and have basically been replaced by the M.2 standard.
M.2 use dedicated PCIE lanes and have a dedicated spot on the motherboard.
So when looking at SSDs you're basically considering m.2 or SATA.
You're budget, storage needs, transfer speed preferences, and motherboard are going to guide you one way or another.
This LinusTechTips video explains it pretty well.
As you're spending so much on the entire PC, the best upgrade you could possibly make to this thing is a Samsung Pro Evo 950 512GB for your OS and Games. It wrecks the 850 in ways I can't describe is is arguably as worthwhile as dropping a stellar graphics card. I'm currently running a 950 w/ a regular old shit disk drive as my "storage" and it's one of the best computing experiences I've ever had.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Series-512GB-PCIe-NVMe/dp/B01639694M
This is an M2 HDD and fits in that cute little slot in the southeast corner of your mobo in this photo: http://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static/forever/images/product/24571c289f1f8390b8ba715c97ef7203.1600.jpg
Edit:
Looking at your build closer, I would actually rather have a 1TB 950 Pro in my box than a second 980 Ti (by the way your computer is almost the exact same as mine).1TB 950s don't seem to exist yet, just buy one and add it to your build. Keep the second 980Ti. ¯_(ツ)_/¯I believe Samsung makes the fastest ones. I bought this one a few months ago. The Pro series is a bit more popular but I don't think there's much difference. It can read at 2500 MB/s and write at 1500 MB/s, so yeah they're much faster, ever faster than a RAID array of SSD's. The motherboard you picked out has 2 M.2 ports.
I can second what bizboz said. I have a 9343 so the faster and pricier nvme SSDs are not fully supported, I installed the Samsung EVO 500GB which was only $150 now. Some Xps13 ssd install instructions:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/3hql7y/xps_13_ssd_upgrade/
https://m.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/3y30nl/install_samsung_950_pro_in_xps_13_9350/
Brick and mortar stores probably won't have these SSDs in stock. Make sure you get the m2 form factor not the larger SATA III.
This is the EVO at $157:
Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB M.2 3.5-Inch SSD (MZ-N5E500BW)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGIW1XG/
If you can spend $300+, the skylake versions (9350) motherboard support the Samsung m2 nvme SSD which gets 2500/1500 read write, which is nuts.
This is the faster nvme at $327
Samsung 950 PRO -Series 512GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD 2-Inch MZ-V5P512BW
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01639694M/
I don't think there are other brands than samsung for the nvme, but you can use other brands for the slower pcie ssd, won't save much $ tho.
You need a spudger and torx screws, cheap on amazon, and if you want to clone your drive then an m2 ssd external housing, and samsung clone utility doesnt always work so you might need a third party cloning software. I did a clean install so i think i could have done without the external housing. Reports that the external housings don't work with the faster nvme anyway, too, so YMMV.
And yes crystal mark shows 500+/500+ read write with the EVO 850, before it was only 450/150 or so with the stock 128GB SSD.
Wow thank you.
I really like the case, will the midtower size be enough?
thoughts on the slower ram?
good call on the OS.
still dont want to give up on the hard drive size, if i do thoughts on http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-512GB-PCIe-NVMe/dp/B01639694M/?tag=li-org-per-vr-us-20
There seem to be a lot of parts that I've found in other guides that aren't available on PCPartPicker. X99 motherboards and the new Samsung 950 SSDs. The performance specs for the SSD is off the charts...
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-512GB-PCIe-NVMe/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458618649&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=samsung+950+pro+m.2
Am I getting limited options because everyone is providing responses through PCPartPicker?
Aha, I wanted to make the joke, but you can never tell how it's going to go down.
Problem with PC's is I just end up dreaming about building my dream machine.
Then maybe I want to custom watercool the whole thing for another £500
And suddenly I can't afford to eat for the next few years.
I have one of these in my P50 https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M . Its super fast!
What prompted my questions was that http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Series-512GB-PCIe-NVMe/dp/B01639694M is $300 versus $950.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Series-512GB-PCIe-NVMe/dp/B01639694M
thank god. thanks guys for the quick reply. i have a quick question regarding m.2. can i get one of those and another ssd? or no need? i'm looking at this http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-512GB-PCIe-NVMe/dp/B01639694M/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449903613&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=m.2
Let's first break down the different consumer-grade interfaces on SSD's today. There is the traditional SATA interface that has existed for many years over three major iterations (SATA 1, 2 and 3). These SSD drives have only dropped in price dramatically over the past year or two.
A newer interface known as NVMe takes SSD speeds to the next level. SATA 3 has a theoretical transfer limit of 600MB/s, while NVMe is enabling SSDs to reach over 2000MB/s. NVMe also costs considerably more than their SATA interface brethrens.
For example, Samsung's 512GB 850 Pro SSD (SATA interface) runs for ~$225 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-PRO-2-5-Inch-MZ-7KE512BW/dp/B00LF10KTO/
While the Samsung's 512GB 950 Pro SSD (NVMe interface) is priced at ~$336
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M
So can I see SSD prices generally rising 20-25% into 2018? Yes, based on the new NVMe interface. Do I think the old SATA 3 SSD pricing will increase by 20-25% into 2018? Hell no.
> Is the difference that noticeable?
In day to day use, I would say no, you won't notice. But when the difference between a quality, trusted, and highly recommended SSD and shitty SSD is just $20, it just seems silly to go with the latter option.
Also, that M.2 SSD is not worth it as it is nearly identical in performance as they both use SATA controller. The only advantage is that it has a smaller form factor. The SSD that would fully utilize that M.2 port capability would be something like the 950 Pro which for the 128GB version cost about $190
I have a New in Open Box Samsung 950 PRO 512GB PCI-E 3.0 M.2 SSD for only $220 shipped priority. Has less than an hours worth of use for testing. I went up higher to the 1TB model. Lemme know: Link
There's really no easy way to answer this.
1 pro variant SSD (512GB or greater) will outperform any amount of TB HHD's in a RAID 0. SATA III peaks at ~550 MB/s in real world applications. You would need 3 1TB HDD's at about $50 each, that's $150 to achieve ~510 MB/s bandwidth. RAID is never perfect. Not exactly the most reliable.
The best solution is always going to be anything that travels over the PCIe 3.0 4x channels (NVME) which includes M.2. Not sure how much space your footage will take up. I would weigh what is more important to your sanity AND your budget. This is the cheapest 1TB option available.
You might consider getting the cheapest laptop you can find that will otherwise fit your needs, and adding a 512 GB SSD after the fact. A 512 GB SSD often comes as a premium upgrade, but it's not terribly expensive to buy separately. A Samsung 850 EVO Sata III SSD will only cost you $157.10 on Amazon, and places like Micro Center will match that. Want the same thing in m.2 format? $158.56. Want it in the faster NVME format? $314.99, though I expect that'll drop in a month when the 960 series comes out. The first to options are the most cost-effective, and the last only matters if your laptop supports NVME, which it probably won't at your price point.
If you go with either of the first two options, you're probably paying less than what most manufactures would charge to upgrade from a HDD to a 128 GB solid state for the same model laptop.
I have an Asus Z170-A board and I'm getting a new SSD for it. I bought a cheap MX300 525GB when I built it about 2 months ago. I'm almost out of space and I'm looking for an M.2 to use as the OS and move the MX300 over to storage.
Now I'm a little out of sorts with NVMe and PCIe support for storage devices. I looked at the Asus product page for my board and all it did was confuse me more.
Am I NVMe compatible?
This is what I was looking at getting.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-950-PRO-Internal-MZ-V5P512BW/dp/B01639694M
Also will I see a noticeable increase in performance by switching from an MX300 to the 950 Pro?
Samsung Evo 950 Pro NVME M.2 drive
It has a transfer rate of 32 gbps, whereas a SATA port maxes out at 6 gbps.
I just purchased an Asus Strix GL502 VT and added an NVMe SSD. It has a quad core i7, DDR4 RAM, and an actual 9 series GPU with CUDA cores which help accelerate Adobe software. I've had it for about 4 days now, but I really enjoy it. I can come back in like a month and give you more opinions on this machine, but the XPS 15 is a very solid choice too!!
Also, you said your gen-1 rmbp has a 9 series gpu, its acually a 6 series card
Here is the mobile version of your link
Sorry to bother you again. I am comparing different SSD drives. I am currently looking at a Samsung 950 PRO Series - 512GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD. Would this fit within the current case? If not, could i just switch everything over to this case?
Think I'm going to have to go with this instead:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01639694M/
Sandisk 480GB for $125
Strange I can't even find my link to it anymore....
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Solid-Components-SDSSDA-480G-G26-Version/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469027934&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=480gb
I originally built my PC with one 128GB ssd and a 1TB hdd(back when ssd prices were higher) but now I am quickly running out of space on both and will be in store for an upgrade soon. I thought buying another HDD would be the way to go but then I saw this 480GB Sandisk for $93 on Amazon This price and capacity seem good enough for me to justify an ssd as a primary drive, any thoughts?
Sandisk SSD Plus 480GB
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=twister_B077SPTJP9?_encoding=UTF8&amp;th=1
Link from where i bought it. the sandisk dashboard says "SanDisk SSD Plus Solid State Drive" "Firmware version Z33130RL"
Thanks for the great info, time to order an SSD.
Can somebody help me figure something out? I am looking at these two SanDisk SSD's. This one is 480 GB and on sale for $69.99 and this one is 500 GB for $84.99. Would they both work with an external enclosure? Is the 480 GB version something different? The dimensions are roughly the same as all of the others but it doesn't have 2.5" in the description anywhere.
Thanks guardians.
&#x200B;
I tend to use a standard internal 3 TB 7200 RPM HDD (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IEKG4NE/) in an enclosure (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/). This isn't the most portable set-up but it's cheap and works rather well if you can find a place to plug power for the enclosure.
Alternatively, I'm looking to get an SSD and a non-powered enclosure for portable backing up. So something like this:
(https://www.amazon.com/Tool-free-Inateck-External-Enclosure-FE2004/dp/B00JQTO8TU/) and any SSD. Within your budget, you probably won't find one for 500 GB though this is close enough: (https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-240GB-SDSSDA-240G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G46Q8/).
If you want to go further down in size, you can opt for an M.2 SSD and enclosure set-up.
Hope this helps!
SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB Solid State Drive $139.50
You can save an extra £12 if you go with the SanDisk Plus 480GB !
Consegues SSDs mais baratos, apesar da pior performance relativamente ao 860 Evo. Por exemplo: https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-Sata-Inch-Internal/dp/B01F9G46Q8 (~65€ com ajuste de IVA e portes incluídos).
Looks like you have a decent base, I think with your budget an upgrade is quite possible. First bump that i5 to an i7 4790k and move to 16gb of memory (not necessary but nice). Definitely need a gpu upgrade thankfully you should be able to find a pretty good card for cheap right not. I'd highly recommend a ssd as well and pricing is pretty good atm. Depending on how old it is you may consider going to a better psu but that can wait.
&#x200B;
Breakdown:
i7 4790k ~$170
2*4gb ddr3 ~$40
GTX 980 ~$180 (Look at benchmarks may want to go up or down 1070 is ~$220 and the 970 is ~$100)
480gb ssd $75 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9G46Q8/?tag=pcpapi-20 (that will hold games too, again size up or down based on budget)
&#x200B;
SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB Sata III 2.5 Inch Internal SSD, Up to 535 MB/s https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ixT5Cb7EDW1C7
Because the SSD drive is physically smaller than a regular HD you'll need to put it into the bracket which then gets installed in your computer's HD slot.
SSD drives are getting cheaper and cheaper.
This one is 480GB for $60 with many happy purchasers.
This one is 960GB for $125
The original one (a great deal) I posted has expired.
Order one now, the largest you can afford that is the best value and has plenty of positive reviews from Amazon customers.
Hopefully you have important files/data backup up somewhere, but if not plug in an external drive or flash drive and back up your essential files now if you can.
Follow _Noah271's instructions to install Windows 10.
https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-Solid-Components-SDSSDA-480G-G26-Version/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500860872&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=480gb+ssd
Amazon has it too. Free one-day with Prime.
without ref link
I have this one, and it's great.
SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB Solid State Drive - SDSSDA-240G-G26 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9G43WU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q1ZIBbSDM00RX
You shouldn't expect to get more than a 250 GB drive for 50 bucks. It's going to be hard to fit all your games on there. If you go up to 80-90, you can get a 500 GB class drive like this one.
SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB Solid State Drive - SDSSDA-480G-G26 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L5ZIBbBPRA3JX
They're not the fatest drives on the market but they're great bang for the buck storage.
I'm putting together a new computer and I was planning on getting my first SSD with it. My list had this SanDisk SSD PLUS but Amazon says it isn't even out yet (new version?). Would this be a good replacement?
The same SSD is currently also marked down to $99 on Amazon. I don't have Prime so I'm unsure if there's any other markdowns available there, but figured I'd mention it.
I forgot I never gave you my system specs lol.
Intel i7 7740 xtreme
Gtx aourus 11gb 1080 liquid cooled
2x500GB SSD'S
X299 msi arctic white motherboard
4x trident g-skill ddr4 3200mhz
Btw just looked but the exact SSD I have in my computer are on sale too:
SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB Sata III 2.5 Inch Internal SSD, Up to 535 MB/s https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nyp3Db1Q4PYQ4
It hurts because I paid £58 for two when I bought them haha
The storage is volatile, so as soon as the power goes off, so does your data.
You can get a 480GB SSD for under £110, so the difference isn't that great: https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-PLUS-535MB-2-5-Inch-Internal-x/dp/B01F9G46Q8
Nah. You won't notice too much of a difference in everyday use with an M.2 drive, so no.
For your budget, I'd say this is the best value. I have a Sandisk SSD and it's only marginally slower than my Evo. Good price for a 500GB SSD.
It was a new model, came out only a few days earlier. Apparently there's still a lot of bad ones going out though, look at the reviews. Maybe I got unlucky a bunch, but it's enough to make me give up sandisk and share my experience
SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB Solid State Drive - SDSSDA-480G-G26 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3gzdBbE5WFKPT
all time low according to ccc ( https://charts.camelcamelcamel.com/us/B01F9G46Q8/amazon.png?force=1&amp;zero=0&amp;w=725&amp;h=440&amp;desired=false&amp;legend=1&amp;ilt=1&amp;tp=all&amp;fo=0&amp;lang=en )
these have variable BOM (bill-of-materials) but some reviewers noted the 480gb version was not DRAM-less like the 240gb and 120gb versions
I bought this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F9G46Q8 and https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZJI84
the UASP is the important bit for utilising the speed of the ssd.
I also did a full ntfs format of it on my pc and checked if the firmware needed updating before I plugged it in my xbox1 reformatting and copying the games over, hope this helps, John
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01F9G46Q8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1638&amp;creative=6742&amp;creativeASIN=B07D998212&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=techreal-21&amp;linkId=64fea75f43885dfb2c50739f1a76ce58&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Check the history of this bad boy right https://camelcamelcamel.com/SanDisk-480GB-SDSSDA-480G-G26-Newest-Version/product/B01F9G46Q8?active=watch&amp;_showads=0&amp;product_page_form=true&amp;type=[%22amazon%22]&amp;price=&amp;email=&amp;twitter_user=&amp;twitter_is_public=true&amp;locale=US&amp;asin=B01F9G46Q8&amp;error_fields[]=price .
Well, he did ask for a cheap SSD. And for less than £100, he can't get 1TB. He can get a smaller SSD though.
Both are better in terms of performance compared to the Barracuda. By the way, don't have faith in fusion drives, they're over-hyped pieces of junk that are barely any faster than a normal harddisk.
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
The price on that machine is shit for being a first Gen i5. You can go to ebay and buy 3rd gen i5s refurbished Dells for around 150-200
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-OptiPlex-9010-SFF-3rd-Gen-i5-3470-3-20Ghz-4GB-250GB-DVDRW-Windows-10-Pro-B7-/391677925954?hash=item5b31d2da42:g:fMYAAOSwvg9XfIi2
Buy somethings like this and put a SSD! in it and get a low profile R7 240! or something like that and you will destroy WOW
Some points:
And here's what an example build can look like:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gvxQLD
Thinking about getting a GTX 1050ti, AMD fx-6350 black, Corsair H60, EVGA 600 b1, Crucial mx300 275GB SSD and a ASUS 23" 1080p monitor, would these be good together? Could I do better for the same price or less? Looking to upgrade my current setup(gt 620, GA-78LMT-USB3, fx-4130, Apevia X-Trooper Jr case), need a little more power in games so hoping those go well together. Would be nice to know what others think about it, got the stuff in my cart but not sure
From your rambling wall of text I think you are looking for an SSD.
Go to http://www.crucial.com and select your MBP model and they will give you your SSD options. After you pick one check on Amazon for the same drive, sometimes it is $5-10 cheaper on Amazon than Crucial (but not always).
I have a 15-inch Early 2011 MBP and bought this one about a year and a half ago: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX200-250GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B00RQA6DTE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483975513&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Crucial+MX200+250GB+SATA+2.5+Inch+Internal+Solid+State+Drive+-+CT250MX200SSD1
When I bought it, it was only $85, not sure why the price has increased to $102. The 500gig version is $269.
EDIT: here is a newer model of that drive for only $87: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
It costs £78 from Amazon, probably the best you can get for little money.
250GB drives will work, according to people here. But even if not you can get something like the 275GB MX300 for $90:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSD5O/
So that SSD seems a bit excessive....
You're generally better off getting a smaller SSD, like 250GB along with a larger mass storage.
Swap that 1TB SSD for this 275GB SSD and this 2TB HDD. You're gonna save almost 100$ on this and have more storage.
You can also get some cheaper RAM like This Kingston HyperX FURY, yeah it's slower at 2133 mhz, butit really doesn't matter.
Now you have about 110$ left over which you can put into a better GPU. You can get a GTX 1070 for 399$ so you'd need to get an extra 20$ on top of your current funds. The 1070 offers substantially better performance than the 1060, you're easily looking at gaining 20-30 frames on average in most games.
EVGA 600 Watt Bronze
Yeah I thought the keyboard was a bit of a waste tbh. My build is pretty similar to yours and I'm using a keyboard that came with an Inspiron my dad got like 6 years ago. It's not mechanical but I still do okay in CSGO
Also for the SSD look at this, this, or even this
As far as monitors go, do you know for sure what you want? Don't buy an ultra-wide or high refresh rate monitor that's twice as expensive as the one you picked out just because I mentioned it lol.
What is most important to you in the monitor?
Resolution?
I can look around for some 2560*1440 monitors
Also your Mobo looks good as far as I can tell
My hard drive is on its way to dying and would love some recommendations at good (but budget friendly) SSDs. I don't really know much about them, so I'd love to be pointed in the right direction.
I'm taking a look at this specific one from Amazon. This a good deal?
> but from before i didnt have this problem
It's inevitable. A 275GB SSD for $80 will change your PC gaming life.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSD5O/
Crucial MX300, 275GB for $80.
> You should buy an SSD ;) Here's a great deal on one for my locale: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD5O/?tag=pcp0f-20
Doesn't ship to my location, but I will keep looking.
> That's the main thing to do. Clear out any of the heatsinks or fans that you can.
Any ideas on how to reach certain fans that I don't know how to get to? Or would you need to see actual photos in order to know how to help?
> Download a Windows iso (7 or 10, depending on which you have a license for) from the Googs, and then use Rufus to create a bootable USB drive from which you can tell your motherboard to start up from and install Windows.
And this would make it like the first time I ever booted up my PC when I first got it?
> So I will try to defragment the hard drive later tonight.
This shouldn't be needed, as Windows 7 is much better with this than XP or older were, but it's worth checking.
> Does this mean I should buy a new hard drive? Should I start looking for cyber monday deals?
You should buy an SSD ;) Here's a great deal on one for my locale: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD5O/?tag=pcp0f-20
> Occasionally I will spray some air in some fans and on the components of my PC,
That's the main thing to do. Clear out any of the heatsinks or fans that you can.
> How would I do this?
Download a Windows iso (7 or 10, depending on which you have a license for) from the Googs, and then use Rufus to create a bootable USB drive from which you can tell your motherboard to start up from and install Windows.
Also, personally, I'd recommend a bigger SSD. 120GB can fill up super quickly.
Get this combo deal at Fry's. Available in store and online. Sign up for their email to receive the promo code to buy it. 1600 + MSI Gaming B350 = $189 after $15 mail in rebate.
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/7e97zh/cpu_ryzen_5_1600_msi_b350m_motherboard_189_15_mir/
Get this SSD. $10 cheaper and more storage. Crucial makes great SSDs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QwXeAb3ZQ5WXA
That's about the lowest I can bring it down, maybe try to find a good deal on the 1080 in the upcoming weeks.
Think I'd go with this SSD instead
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSD5O/
Get this. You get a little more space than the Samsung, and this drive works great. The flash memory is made by Micron, one of the biggest memory makers in the world, not some no name brand.
This 275gb one by Crucial is very good and only costs $70. The 525gb is also only $120 so could be something to think about if you are willing to go a little extra. The quality is on par with the Samsung SSDs.
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/qMqdnQ/a-data-internal-hard-drive-asp600s3256gmc
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSD5O/?tag=pcpapi-20
Oh well there’s your issue, ssd all the way. Your processor is mighty fine. Your graphics card is a great card alonefor a pc, if you’re doing gaming it’ll hold up but if you’re trying to play at ultra or 1440p then you’d have to get a new card, but it doesn’t seem like that’s what you’re going for. But as for general performance in your computer? Ssd ssd ssd. Samsung 850 evos are by far the most popular, and for good reason, but any brand name ssd will do you perfectly fine, such as this crucial one or this kingston . Read enough forums and you’ll see that ssds are the main upgrade for older systems, because the actual os runs off of them, slowing everything down. It doesn’t matter how fast your brain can think through data if it can only read a book at 2 words per minute, the reading speed will be your weakest link. Same with the computer. All of those ssds are great, you might need a sata 3 cable unless you want to replace your hard drive instead of add to it, and the size of the ssd should depend on how much you plan on putting on it. Anything you put on the ssd will run a lot faster, so your OS should always be the first thing, allot at least 16 gigs for the OS, and then any programs you want to run faster. Personally with a 256gb, I can keep all programs on my ssd, and the only thing on my hard drive is games, which is, after loading times, the only computer software that isn’t affected by hard drive speeds.
The 2009 MacBook Pro accepts the 2.5 inch drive form factor, the products linked below are matched to be compatible with your laptop. Please do double check online for your model.
Since you're looking for a budget SSD I highly recommend the Crucial MX300 by Micron and the SanDisk SSD Plus.
Both have great performance and beats your budget goal.
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB FTW+ GAMING ACX 3.0, 6GB GDDR5, LED, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) Graphics Card 06G-P4-6368-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LSLRTFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_SDRMX3UIXdAxI
Ballistix Sport LT 8GB Single DDR4 2400 MT/s (PC4-19200) DIMM 288-Pin - BLS8G4D240FSB (Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UFBZOVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_7iVYhj11fa5km
Intel Boxed Core I5-6600 FC-LGA14C 3.30 Ghz 6 M Processor Cache 4 LGA 1151 BX80662I56600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0136JONRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_4YyzHKmo6KA6q
Crucial MX300 275GB SATA 2.5 Inch Internal Solid State Drive - CT275MX300SSD1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6RMoIJiv9q4l7
Gigabyte LGA1151 Intel H110 Micro ATX DDR4 Motherboard GA-H110M-A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_d83VQlljPJlrV
EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_QRdZZpho4Ez8z
Thermaltake VERSA H15 Micro ATX Mini Tower Gaming Computer Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CLIZ698/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_d4qde2QmPEKHo
I got this one after reading a lot of reviews of people using it on old MacBooks. No complaints so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/
CDW and other VARs will. Its a trivial discount as these things are sold low-margin.
If price is a major issue you may be able to buy the previous ssd model if you shop around and find someone with an old inventory they want to get rid of. Amazon, ebay, etc. This is slightly risky as scammers and such are everywhere.
Crucial is very good bang for the buck right now:
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
I dont know much about your other parts. But that SSD looks pretty pricey for about the same quality when compared to this one. Crucial MX300 275GB - Amazon.ca
sorry may I check if this HDD which I bought initially when i wanted a t460, can be used on a t470?
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;fpl=fresh&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=&amp;pf_rd_r=Z4JAPTDEW8S3FRK1S41K&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=1cded295-23b4-40b1-8da6-7c1c9eb81d33&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop
Buy a SSD and use it as a boot and game drive.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-275GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491499613&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ssd+crucial
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491499654&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ssd+250
I've been wanting to buy an SSD since quite a few time and now that black friday has come I'm going to do it. But I'm not sure on what SSD I should buy. I'm not willing to pay more than 80€ ($85ish) and i have thought of three options; Samsung 750 EVO 250GB, Crucial MX300 270GB and SanDisk Ultra II 240GB.
Since the 850 EVO is slightly more expensive and I'd prefer not to spend that much money unless it's worth it, and the extra space between 240GB and 275GB is not significant for me, which would be my best option? Thanks.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-CT275MX300SSD1-MX300-2-5-inch-Internal/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520896015&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=crucial+mx300+275gb&amp;dpID=51YndxZLJmL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
To be honest look elsewhere :)
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD5O
Not from Best Buy, but you can get a 275GB Crucai MX300 for $90 at Amazon.
My friend is selling some PC parts and wants to find out how much they would go for:
Edit: He has only had these parts for 1-2 months and hasn't used them much.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IAGSD5O/?tag=pcp0f-21
I'm looking to get more space for my PC and add on mainly SSD's. Instead of getting 1 SSD with 1 TB, I plan on getting multiple ones 4 of these, and do a RAID config. (I'm still learning about RAID- my mobo is a MSI970A-G43, and supports RAID if anyone is wondering). Does anyone have experience with I'm trying to do, or any tips on what I should look for when getting an SSD? (i.e. does sequential read/write speed matter more than random read/write etc.)
Any help is appreciated, thanks !
This is very useful, thank you! Will this one work? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD5O/ref=twister_B01IGSUN0O?_encoding=UTF8&amp;th=1
Oof. It's a Crucial 275gb mx300 and I've had it for about 3 years though I don't use my PC much, amazon link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IAGSD5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fbclid=IwAR0ATC0Hqp4lIWC2hAhGTShdhRtnuteShsp3BK4JRmkSB3J-Ek5zSP9sMyc
Thank you very much. I'm going to go with the setup you stated since it looks the best.
Is SquareTrade for about $30 the great warranty you are referring to?
Last question
I am ordering one for 170 on ebay
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IAGSD5O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
^^ that is the crucial ssd I am getting if it works (2.5" right?)
I am having trouble finding the screen. Will any 14" LCD work? I am going to post on thinkpad asking someone all the exact parts I'll need. Thank you very much! cheers
ok then is this any good?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IAGSD5O/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
This link should work
SSDs will not affect in-game performance. Just the loading times.
I need more SSD storage and for the next one I am considering the 525gb version of this.
Almost identical performance to a Samsung Evo (maybe a fractionally tiny bit slower) but more storage space at a much cheaper price.
Just call it a day and get a 1TB ssd for Ark. That way you can have all DLCs and a metric ton of mods downloaded without having to worry about it.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sxin_4_sxwds-bovbs?keywords=1tb+ssd&amp;pd_rd_i=B073SBQMCX&amp;pd_rd_r=ea8dde6b-9c8c-4628-ac17-66ed5f654995&amp;pd_rd_w=von8i&amp;pd_rd_wg=WiT1L&amp;pf_rd_p=b866bc3b-cfe5-45c1-897c-a8525a3335d9&amp;pf_rd_r=6FKFWMP0X10MF1R67YCS&amp;qid=1566189021&amp;s=gateway
1TB for $100. Done.
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - WDS100T2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GokuDbBEB34GX
NZXT H500 - Compact ATX Mid-Tower Case - Tempered Glass Panel - All-Steel Construction - Enhanced Cable Management System - Water-Cooling Ready - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3DWCDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XpkuDb17ZT1R8
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_51ivDbAR7413Z
Doubling your ssd space with this drive would only cost $20 more, and staying with 500gb would save you $25
https://smile.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511544037&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=western+digital+1tb+ssd
Also available from amazon.de :
https://www.amazon.de/Blue-interne-Festplatte-Lese-Schreibgeschwindigkeit/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wd+blue+1TB&amp;qid=1562150578&amp;s=computers&amp;sr=1-3
Have you considered switching to an ssd the drive you have is a very slow RPM Drive and that is most likely causing an issue check out this drive:
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=1tb+ssd&qid=1563919585&s=gateway&sr=8-3
If you want something slightly cheaper, have a look at this one instead. SATA is technically not as fast as NVMe, but I have machines with both, and I do not see a noticeable difference in performance between the two.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a3-ACbFG19N6A
That’s not a sale either
The one you can buy is all TLC SSD´s. From the qualtiy, I could recommend you Kingston, Samsung or WD here are some examples:
Samsung:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549304266&sr=8-3&keywords=samsung+ssd
Kingston:
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-120GB-Solid-SA400S37-120G/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=ice_ac_b_dpb?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1549304281&sr=1-2&keywords=kingston+ssd
WD:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1549304281&sr=1-8&keywords=kingston+ssd
&#x200B;
Kingston is cheap for ssds with low capacity if you want more space use the WD. Samsung is an allrounder
Oh you'll definitely be able to achieve good FPS, the 1060 is still a powerful card, though for some AAA titles you may have to turn the graphics settings down in order to do so in the next couple years. A lot of people who go all out and build PC's are looking for maximum graphics settings and such, which with your budget you simply won't be able to achieve on super demanding games.
Just saw your other comment with budget raising. You're still not going to get a GREAT monitor, you'll want to dump $300-$400 on that, though that's easy to upgrade in the future. So you can go one of two paths here and now:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540838130&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=1.5+tb+ssd&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-SILENT-Graphics-08G-P4-6678-KR/dp/B077Z6LFQ1/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540837762&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=1070+ti
Save your money and get an RTX 2070 in a few weeks or a regular GTX 1080. If your monitor is an AMD freesync screen then maybe give a hard look at Vega 64 too. I used to own a 1080 Ti that was sold before benchmarks for Turing came out. At 1440p144 the RTX 2080 is better in my own opinion, but at 4K it is a wash really. I know that a 1070 can push 1080p144 no problem, so if you really have budgetary concerns you don't need more than the 1080 or 2070.
edit with the savings by using a 1080 instead you can ditch your spinning rust and get a full 1TB SSD, https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/
Certainly!
First and absolutely foremost: BACKUP YOUR DATA AND SAVE FILES TO A USB DRIVE OF SOME SORT. (This is mostly if you're on a PS4. Xbox I believe has some cloud save feature but please verify first you have your data backed up before doing any hardware replacement on any console.
Next, pick up a 2.5" laptop SSD. You can use up to a 2TB drive in a PS4, I don't know Xbox Ones size limitations but 2TB is a friggin lot of storage. Here's a pretty sweet deal on a 1TB on Amazon
Now, if you haven't backed up your save files yet, do so. Seriously. Don't make the same mistake I did.
Once you've got your SSD, follow these directions to replace the shitty mechanical HDD in your PS4 or Xbox with that slick solid state storage:
After you've got the SSD installed and your PS4/xbox software re-installed and updated, setup your account and restore your save files to your account.
Now kick back and enjoy the quickest load times you've ever experienced on a console.
Note: This may affect how you treat bathroom breaks while gaming.
which of these ssd's is better?
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP001TBSS3A55S25/dp/B07B4G19X3
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538609498&sr=8-2&keywords=wd+blue+1tb+ssd
It'd be equally as fine - m.2 drives typically have higher top speeds, but not always; that one has advertised speeds comparable to that of my Samsung 850 EVO SSD (a 1TB SATA 3, 2.5" SSD).
Eg:
Same brand, same size, same speeds, but it's SATA 3 and $2 cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/
Id probalby just get a usb3 enclosure(there cheap, like less than 20usd on amazon, id get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541267854&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+3+enclosure+2.5) Its a bit slower than thunderbolt, but much cheaper. You can boot from it just fine, and much faster than any hdd.
Then id get a 2.5 ssd like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541267901&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=1tb+wd+blue&amp;dpID=41nJrjRecIL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Put the ssd in the enclosure, clone the os over to the ssd(look at a program like superduper to do this), and boot from the external ssd(can select the boot device with option at bootup) and it will be much faster.
Get the same SSD for way less on Amazon.
For the charger, go to the dell support and check under your laptop for the service code. Should be on a sticker.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0A/dp/B073SBQMCX
This is what I was talking about.
I'd go for the crucial 240GB Kingston got a bit of a bad rep recently. It's a few quid cheaper on amazon too
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-CT240M500SSD1-240GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B00BQ8RM1A
just putting it out there that crucial m500 is about $10 cheaper on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2-5-Inch-adapter-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=pd_sim_pc_7?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1S98YK0EJT502H7FHRQX
If you can stretch to a 240-256GB SSD then it'll give you plenty of space to have the OS, your apps and all but your biggest files on the SSD. Then you can use the HD just for media files etc. This is a nice pain-free option. With a 120GB SSD you may find yourself juggling to ensure you don't fill up the SSD (Keeping in mind that most SSDs perform best if you stay under 80% or so usage).
This is a very decent 240GB SSD for less than the 120GB Sandisk in your list. (The Samsung 840 EVO benchmarks a little better than this one, but they are roughly comparable).
You could get twice the capacity of SSD for £15 more.
I would save a bit of money and go with a r9 290 for £330 or if you like nvidia a 780 for £360. These should give you nearly the same performance as the 780ti when overclocked. I would save the money for another GPU upgrade in a year or so.
I would get one of these monitors:
Iiyama Prolite GB2773HS-GB1 144Hz 27
Benq XL2720T 27" TRUE 120Hz 3D Vision 2.0
The Iiyama is 144hz and has longer warranty.
They are much cheaper than the monitor speced.
I would go with a red mechanical keyboard for gaming unless you want the tactile feedback in which case I would go with browns. The blues do make a clicking noise which some people like though. Reds are linear so are more suited to gaming. Browns are blues are similar and have a tactile bump which is useful for typing.
>All of those things that you mentioned, some of which may trickle out in the next few months, or boards that are capable of accepting them (i.e. Broadwell/Maxwell-ready motherboards).
Maxwell-ready motherboards? Maxwell is the same PCIe 3.0 as before. There's no such thing as a "maxwell-ready" motherboard.
Of course we'll have Broadwell-ready boards with the 9-series chipsets, but the problem with that is with a $2000 budget you're well in (and past) 4670K/4770K level (or their tweaked replacements) and there's no way Broadwell will bring anywhere near a big enough performance boost to justify an upgrade there.
As for the rest: as I already stated in the initial reply, PCIe 4.0, SATA Express, and DDR4 are all slated for release well after June 2014, and even if they were, none of them will really be all that revolutionary for the end user.
>Yeah, there's no definite date, but it's likely that some new 800-series GPU will come out between now and then
Well, no, you're just pulling that out of a hat. The current information/rumours point to Nvidia waiting on the 20nm node at TSMC to be ready for large scale production before they release the desktop 800-series chips. That could be anywhere from mid-summer to even early 2015. We just don't know. With the relatively recent release of the 780 Ti and Titan Black it doesn't look like Nvidia is planning to replace their high end lineup anytime in the near future, especially with AMD's ability to compete in the gaming space crippled by miners driving the prices up and supply down.
>or at least that prices on existing components will drop as well.
Prices fall in CPUs and GPUs because of 2 main things: competition and replacement products. Both hold their price (ignoring the crypto-mining for now) until their respective company decides to reduce it to boost sales or to re-position the product to be more competitive.
Intel CPUs pretty much maintain almost exactly the same price from a month after release to soon after the release of the new line, and even after that prices don't really drop by much either. A prime example would be the i5-3570K - still $216 even this long after being replaced.
> If he has a few months to buy, and is not in a hurry to have it now, what is the benefit of buying now?
The benefit of buying now is having a great gaming machine for those few months versus having no gaming machine. Your justification for waiting was "there's a bunch of really awesome new stuff definitely coming out between now and then so you should wait", but you've so far gotten to "prices might fall a bit" (which is always true, plus sales) and some speculation on Maxwell maybe coming out.
>I just bought a laptop with a 770m at the end of January, and I got a great deal on it, but 6 weeks later I could have gotten an 870m laptop for $150 more.
So if you'd waited 6 weeks you could have spent more to get more power? What you got was basically a clock boosted GTX 670M, and the 870M is basically a clock boosted GTX 680M. Three name generations and we've still got the same GK104 chip at the heart of the high end, just with higher clocks on each release.
>edit: PCI-E SSDs. Will any consumer ones be out for a reasonable price by June? I dunno. Which is reason enough to wait to find out.
As I already said, consumer SATA III SSDs are already fast enough that PCIe SSDs are at this point more of a curious blip on the consumer radar. They had some brief fame near the end of SATAIIs life before SATAIII really took off as they allowed users to bypass the bottleneck without buying a new board. As of now they really only get used for enterprise and data center workloads. Consumer-oriented PCIe SSDs are basically just two SSDs and controllers mounted on a single board in RAID0. The Asus ROG Raidr for instance is two bog-standard Sandforce SF-2281 controllers connected up to 128GB of NAND each and connected together with a Marvell RAID controller. That'll run you $350. Alternatively you could just grab three Crucial M500 240GB drives and run them in RAID0 with Intel's onboard controller which would give you triple the storage, and about twice the speed, for only $330. Plus $20 to buy some beer with to celebrate getting better performance for less money.
This is a good choice (WD Blue 1TB) for $60. If you want an SSD, this is a good choice (Crucial M500 240GB) for enough space and close to your budget.
Your motherboard (the large circuit board everything is attached to) would have had such extra cables with its packaging. If you can't find any, along with the hard drive order one (doesn't matter if it's cheap).
Install the new hard drive in an empty space. Check your old hard drive - how it's installed, and install it in the same way in an empty space in the Hard drive caddy. You'll be needing a cable from your PSU to your hard drive. Logically if you follow the power cable from your old Hard Drive it would have an extra extension that you can use. Also, connect the sata cable we talked about in step 2. Using one end (doesn't matter which) connect it to your new hard drive, the other one to your motherboard.
This is a good indication where in the motherboard you can connect it to. DO NOT REMOVE THE OLD HARD DRIVE -yet.
Make a partition to your NEW hard drive. If you don't know how, here's a guide for windows 7. Make the partition big enough to hold the data you want to copy, but be sure to leave AT LEAST 40-50GB of space for the rest. If for instance you bought the 240GB (~220GB) ssd, make a partition of 100GB. So you will have two partitions, one with 120GB and another with 100GB. Copy all your data to the 100GB partition.
Open your computer, remove the cables from your old hard disk. Don't forget to remove the SATA cable that connect to your motherboard. Pay attention to not remove the cables of your new hard drive though.
Pop the windows dvd and begin the windows installation. When prompted where to install it, choose the partition where there is no data. If for instance in the previous step you created a 100GB partition and copied your files there, choose the other one (120-140GB) for your windows installation. After installation, you have two choices: Either copy the files from the 100GB partition to the 120-140GB one, and then "merging" it (so you will have one partition only) or leave it as is.
You can save yourself a lot of trouble if you could find an external usb hard drive (or big enough flash drive). If you can find such a device, you can skip step 4 and step 6's partition merging. Just pop the usb drive, copy the files, then step1>step2>step3>step5>step6 (minus partition stuff)
... or buy it on Amazon limit: as many as you want.
Plus free shipping.
That sucks. I hope that you kept good backups.
The N56VZ is compatible with any standard 7mm or 9.5mm 2.5" SATA SSD. Currently, your best option is probably the 250GB Crucial M500. I'm normally more inclined to recommend the Samsung 840 Evo, but the M500 is a bit less expensive right now while offering very similar performance and quality.
Why not double your space for $30?
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/
Save $30 by going with the Crucial M500 240 GB.
Could cheapen to a sem-modular PSU like the Corsair CX 600 as well.
Cheaper motherboard for sure. CPU cooler wise get the CM 212 EVO. ~$30.
I'd get this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/
This is the only one I see, Crucial M500 240GB list $129.99 on sale $109.99.
Ships from and sold by Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=sr_1_1?srs=9094657011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398617467&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=crucial+m500
I've been looking around and found the following:
Optical bay enclosure:
SSD option 1
SSD option 2
Would these SSDs work?
I don't know how worried you are about pinching your pennies, but you could get a Crucial M500, 120GB for $15 less. Alternatively, you can get a 240GB M500 for only $30 more. This would increase you write speed from 130MBps to 250MBps.
Would this SSD work with that build? http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-240GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=zg_bs_1292116011_5
Is this one better than the one at amazon?
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=gb1h_tit_m-3_0002_32a7033b?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=1GSBC1KBE5ESSDSVFHKF&amp;pf_rd_i=6054205011&amp;pf_rd_p=1988780002
Thanks so much! I want to mod Skyrim, hook up to a TV (wirelessly?), and take remote access of it. I just bought one of these SSDs. I think I can still cancel. What do you think? Lots of people were even getting two
Edit: also are there things/brands this SSD won't connect to that I should take into consideration while continuing to shop?
> Also, I have an I5 4670, should I upgrade that while I'm at it?
Should you buy a yellow Fiat and three thousand hot pockets? I don't know man. If it's not good enough upgrade it. Chances are it still is.
> Any recommendations on what I should upgrade to while there are some sales going on?
There are some 240gb SSD's going for like 80 bucks USD right now. I think the Crucial M500 is your best bet.
In case you didn't see it ... Crucial M500 for $73
http://smile.amazon.com/Crucial-2-5-Inch-adapter-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/
You'd have to reinstall windows onto the SSD.
Its a pretty good deal IMO not as good as the black friday/Cyber monday deals, but its a worthwhile investment being that you'll have significantly quicker boot times and games load relatively quicker.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2-5-Inch-adapter-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417625378&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=ssd
A suggestion on a HDD, its double the size for only 2 dollars more.
http://www.amazon.com/WD-Blue-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417625246&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=1+tb
Yes. I'd stick with Samsung or Crucial. I use a 840 Evo in my build. Works great.
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2-5-Inch-adapter-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417640223&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=crucial+m500+240gb
SSDs are easy to use. Make sure you have an extra SATA6/3 cable and a SATA power cable to run the drive. You may have to buy the SATA6 cable. The Samsung Magician Software is very easy to use and does a great job at keeping the drive tuned up. Do a YouTube search for Samsung Magician software and check it out. The Crucial drive is also good.
Get the 240G ssd (http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2-5-Inch-adapter-Internal-CT240M500SSD1/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420021869&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=ssd) for an extra $16 you get double the space.
Also, you can get the 2014 razer naga for like $60.
It seems like that 120 GB SSD is expensive. Here is a 240 Gb SSD for $79.
Edit: Is that just European pricing?
Yeah I'll probably just bite the bullet and get either this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-CT240M500SSD1-240GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419279139&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=m500+256gb
Or the 500gb version. We'll see what money allows!
MX100 on Amazon is $109.99
Perhaps you meant the M500? $79.99 at Newegg & Amazon
? On the US store I see
Unless you have a coupon code of some type, the prices Amazon displays include any ongoing sales, FYI.
Consider the Crucial M500 256gb SSD. It's only $103 right now from Amazon
I have one in my system, and it runs flawlessly. They're replacing them with the new M600 line, and thus clearing out stock on-hand.
They were also the go to drive for many large companies for their fleets of IT hardware.
RAID for me is about peace of mind (RAID1) so the smaller the drive, the slower the performance on SSD? I have been out of the hardware game for some years and this kinda blows my mind.
So I should just suck up the extra $60 and get a pair of these.
Displays as £179.95 for me. 240GB version for £92.
So I decided to get the Crucial M500 240GB
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
cheaper ssd, unless ur planning on sli in the future, downgrade the psu, but that one is entirely up to you. you can save 30ish on the ram and ssd that are on sale right now. Get windows 8 athttp://www.reddit.com/r/microsoftsoftwareswap/ save you another 70 bucks. Theres a cheaper monitor on newegg right now.
too bad u missed the sale on g skill ram they were going for around 55$ for 2x4gb...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER for the ssd
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009642&amp;ignorebbr=1 for the monitor
I contacted support and canceled it at the last second and got a refund in favor for this. I just wanted a ssd to put games that don't require that much graphics on because of the speed. It's been holding up well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BQ8RM1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1418587912&amp;sr=1-1&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
i got this model over on amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ8RM1A?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
That is a SSHD. A 2TB SSD would cost over $1000.
That is the cost of a 1TB SSD. Would be a horrible decision as you can just buy a 2nd xbox at this price
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=undefined&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=SSD+2tb
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397240154&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=ssd+drive+samsung
That's actually expensive even for an SSD. The 1TB 840 EVO is actually much cheaper than $600.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W16OU/ref=twister_B00EHFJJHY
As far as I know there's no size limitation, but those MacBooks took SATA I drives, so theres no point in buying a SATA II or III drive - you can probably find a sizable SATA I drive online for cheap. If you can't, SATA II or III will work, you just won't be able to take advantage of the higher speeds.
Also, you should consider putting in an SSD. The speeds will make your laptop feel new again, and Amazon has some pretty big discounts right now, like this 500 GB drive, or this 1 TB drive.
If you want to add a 1TB SSD drive to this, you would still be under your budget. Here's one from Amazon that is $450 on sale right now:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398456172&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tb+ssd+samsung.
The 512 GB is $50 less, but might as well get double for that small amount.
Note: I didn't check any other sites, it might be cheaper elsewhere.
Also this
I have bought a couple of the Samsung EVO SSDs on Amazon, you can find them here. Reviews are very good on this model.
:)
add an SSD https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-2-5-inch-Basic-Solid-State/dp/B00E3W16OU it's not that expensive
I'd probably go with the Samsung 840 1 TB
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU
Edit: The other part of your question. To handle migrating OS X to the new SSD, I'd probably use Carbon Copy Cloner. To migrate Windows, I'd use Winclone.
Have them price match Amazon and get it for $325
Thank you! Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like I'd be able to upgrade to the SSD linked below, right?
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-SATA-Internal-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU
I think it's best for me to get the $980 version with a still very capable 1TB 7200RPM HDD to get me started and then perhaps consider the 500GB+ SSD upgrade at a later date. What do you think?
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-SATA-Internal-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU?ref_=nav_ya_signin&amp;
Well with the ones I have on the list, this 1 TB SATA 2.5inch SSD would suffice right? How would I check if it's compatible? With the SATA I could always just add an additional drive down the line if I really needed it I suppose.
Why is there such a big price difference in SSDs? Is there a big enough difference between these two to make up for the cost?
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-SATA-Internal-MZ-7TE1T0BW/dp/B00E3W16OU/
That's the best 1tb ssd i know of if that's what you're asking.
One Terabyte Solid State Drive
PlayStation Plus
I currently have this SSD installed as my main OS drive. Should I upgrade to this one, or will I not see enough of a performance boost to be worth the $100?
1TB SSD on Amazon
2TB SSD on Amazon
10TB PCI-e
I like this idea, but can't justify buying more than one of these right now. http://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-Internal-Solid-State-2-5-Inch/dp/B00E3W16OU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427522722&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ssd+1tb+samsung
Even if I can find a better price, which I know I can.
Good to know that the GTX 680 would be a better fit. My tech guy was looking into it and told me the 7970 has a different number of pins.
If you don't think 5.7 pounds is too heavy, then the ASUS N550JK-DS71T would be able to do everything you need. It has a quad core i7 4700HQ processor, 8GB ram, 1TB HDD, 1920x1080 IPS 15.6" touchscreen, GTX 850M GPU and an optical drive. It has all the ports except a VGA, opting instead for a mini-displayPort. You could replace the HDD with a large SSD like the 1TB Samsung 840 EVO and still be within budget.
Alternatively, the MSI GS60 Ghost-003 would provide a bit better gaming performance than the above, due to its GTX 860M GPU (though it uses the Kepler architecture). The Ghost really shines due to its portability at only 4 pounds.