(Part 2) Best lab, safety & work gloves according to redditors
We found 1,033 Reddit comments discussing the best lab, safety & work gloves. We ranked the 553 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Welp, here's a bunch more stuff. That pretty much exhausts my useful Amazon purchasing history, the rest being media (books, music, movies, TV shows), health 'n' beauty type stuff that wouldn't be applicable to 99% of other folks, or items that are some combination of "not listed anymore" and "shit I wouldn't recommend."
Here's a costume if anybody actually wants to dress up:
Chemsuit
Respirator
Gloves
"Meth"
All links are to Amazon.com
edit: Took out the referrals to sellers in the links.
http://smile.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mesh-Hand-Glove/dp/B000NNT2EY
Just buy these. Two reasons.
Here's a photo that you can take with your iPhone and a macro lens
Here are a couple things I'd suggest:
Mechanix M-pact gloves. I use them and they're great. Very comfy and provide very nice padding for your hands. I was shot in the hand maybe 5 times yesterday and they left no marks. Maybe get a different color, though. They come in tan, black, woodland, black and tan, black and red, yellow. Just a bunch of different ones. I'd suggest solid black or tan as they'll go with just about anything.
One Tigris mask. Very comfy, cheap, provides all the important protection (teeth, lips, nose) while still covering your cheeks. Again, try to choose a color he might like. Solid tan, green, or black would go with most load outs.
If he doesn't have eye protection I'd suggest Pyramex I-force or Pyramex V2G-XP. I use and love both. They've taken multiple shots with no dents, scratches, or cracks, and they don't fog.
I wouldn't suggest a pistol holster if he doens't have a pistol. It's just pointless then. Besides, you really should get a holster designed for your pistol. Universal holsters are usable at best.
I wouldn't suggest a vest either. That's something the person has to decide for themselves. They might want a low profile chest rig, or a large vest to provide protection, or maybe they just want a belt to hold things.
You could also get him a Visa pre-paid gift card. I know, it doesn't feel "personal", but I can tell you they're the best gifts I ever get.
Edit: Some of the cheap things on my Krytac:
I weaved Paracord through the rails. Makes it look Oper8r as hell, and it's comfy to hold. Really cheap as well. 50ft is $6 from the store I linked. Planet Paracord also has a lot of other colors.
I also use the Strike Industries keymod handstop kit. It makes a comfortable place to hold your gun, and it's completely customizable. While Black is sold out on AirsoftGI, they still have Coyote Brown, Flat Dark Earth, Grey, and Tan
This works for me - I find that it at very least doesn't make things worse, and provides quite a bit of relief from the itching and the pain.
Basically, I slather my hands is shea butter/sweet almond oil/any natural fatty oily bit. Then I put on cotton gloves, and go about my business for the day. Yeah, it looks a little strange in public, but people generally don't say anything. When they do mention it, I just laugh and say I have really bad eczema - they usually laugh with me and mention their sister/cousin/friend that gets it really bad too.
It's a two-part solution for me. First, it helps keep my hands moisturized - KEY for me in regards to the itching and cracking. Second, it keeps me from touching people and surfaces - When my hands are really bad, it hurts to touch other people's skin, and rough surfaces hurt as well. The gloves are a perfect physical barrier.
Even if it is too awkward to do in public, it is still a great option for around the house and while you sleep!
I love my fingerless gloves for work, I go back and forth from wiring to metal work. So slicing my hands up is common if they aren't worn. http://smile.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-CG-Leather-Framer/dp/B0019KBGC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453064111&sr=8-1&keywords=framing+gloves
I don't know, I get basically everything online these days.
If the kitchen doesn't already have them request slash resistant gloves. They've saved my fingers on more than one occasion.
http://www.amazon.com/BladeX5-Classic-Resistant-Gloves-Approved/dp/B003DZ02MA
Warm, inexpensive, and last a long time.
This is why you see your local Mt Ops wearing them.
Kinco 901t and snowseal.
Links:
https://www.amazon.com/KINCO-INTERNATIONAL-901T-Thermal-Premium/dp/B00RW286U0?th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Atsko-Sno-Seal-Original-Beeswax-Waterproofing-Net-overall/dp/B00CQJDQ90/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1548934472&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=snowseal&dpPl=1&dpID=51NfvT0j7hL&ref=plSrch
Nothing short of laser treatment or removing several layers of skin will make a tattoo "wear out". Exposing a fresh tattoo to aquarium water all day is a great way to get an infection though. Get some shoulder length gloves like these before sticking your arm in the tank.
I've been using Mechanix Vent gloves as they are super cheap, durable, and comfy. I believe there are quite a few here who also use these. I really like them and don't see any need to change.
Love these gloves, beat the hell out of them and they hold perfectly lol
Mechanix Wear - M-Pact Coyote Tactical Gloves (Large, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007INZVHO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Lk-EzbMDAMZ8M
Your corps doesn't provide them to you as part of tuition? Really?
If money is really tight you could try to talk to them first, they might be able to help out with something like that. I found this on Amazon - 5 pairs for 8 dollars. They don't like stretch up to gauntlet length but they do cover your wrist, and that's about the length I used.
Really though, talk to your corps staff first if buying your own is that rough on you financially.
Mechanix Wear Tactical MultiCam M-Pact https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LB46F5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VZufzbZYY05VP
So far they are great. Easy to use a rifle with, and they fit like a glove
Gentlemen of the bloody callused hand guild, I come in peace and present these gloves. I too was once a bitch-mitten hater, then I discovered the glove that works for me.
They are durable as fuck, they protect from a lot of scraping, help with grip on a greasy wrench, and still allow me to get in there and feel with my finger tips. Give them a shot!
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-M-Pact-Covert-Tactical/dp/B005YSS0EQ
By far the best for the price.
Not sure if serious... If you are, don't buy them at retail. I wear these at work. At Lowes, Autozone, and other local retailers, the equivalent of these are $18/box of 100. Online, around $6/100 in bulk.
~12 cents/pair instead of 36 cents.
I've always liked the weighted metal clips, they work fine and really hold the film. They've been the standard for, like, ever.
I run the shower in the bathroom on hot (to settle any airborne dust down) and clpi a spring clip to the shower curtain rod, and hang the film clip from that, close the door, and come back in two hours. (Before I clip the film, I dry the top of the strip with a kim wipe, hang and squeegie it with my wet fingers, and then dry the bottom of the strip with a kim wipe since lots of water pools up there. How many times have you thought your film was dry but it's still wet under the clips?)
BTW, I find it massively easier to sleeve my film with cheap white cotton jeweler's gloves. I use the regular print file sleevs and a good pair of scissors.
If the buyer doesn’t want them, yes. Got them on amazon however for £20 Mechanix Wear - M-Pact Fingerless Covert Gloves (Large, Black) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01EOWA4H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GdNWBb943PZAS
Get some really heavy duty PVC coated gloves and some nice wool liner gloves. Your hands will stay toasty and dry.
You must. If you're one of the types that gets annoyed by bulky gloves. Try a pair of nitrile gloves. They are waterproof, breathable and you can still use your phone. Perfect for wet mornings. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P4PJOVM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are a bit bulky but they are long and get the job done for the wash portion of the job on really cold days.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ8K4M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
Skintx Nitrile gloves - black
https://www.amazon.com/Skintx-SKINTX-Nitrile-Exam-Glove/dp/B013SKL3IG
FYI: My wife won't let me wear them at home for butchery because she has nightmares that I am a medical examiner that works from home.
I'll link a few that I've bought. I've used all of them for different things, and there are somethings I just won't use 'em for after. I'll always have a few to rotate and wash.
I haven't minded paying the price for these as they've saved my hands throughout most of the shit I've handled. And I get to continue to use 'em/share 'em when doing my own work or helping others. The touch-screens I've loved a lot with the Zebra, but I try and be careful with them with moisture/sharp objects since they seem to deteriorate quite fast when not paying attention.
There hasn't been a pair that is perfect for everything, but because I can bring these and leave 'em in a box in the back I just switch out for whatever I need at the time. Right tool for the right job.
Latex gloves, facemask that protects against viruses - I believe 3M makes a mask that is N95 (n95 is good but N100 is even better or you can buy a regular gas mask and then just make sure to get NBC filters), hazmat suit, BLEACH, contractor bags for waste, plastic sheeting/tarp if you need to seal your windows/doors, duct tape!!
Edited - even better than latex gloves are these
2nd Edit - don't forget to cover your shoes! You could use contractor bags with duct tape if you don't have shoe covers.
Showa 282 is probably the best of the cheap side of things, IMO. Cheap, warm waterproof/breathable, durable enough that fishermen use them. Add in a liner/thin glove for extra warmth. I usually use a pair of black fleece-lined, finger-dipped neoprene gloves, but I've tried the 282's and they were a little less flexible, but grippier, warmer and less sweaty.
They are smurf-blue though.
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MMP-72-008-M-Pact-Coyote/dp/B0019IA1DS
Pretty sure that's what you're looking for and I agree with the guy above, the rubber has been peeled off. I've worn out many pairs of those exact gloves on the job over the years (not an operator operating operationally on operations, more of a mechanic mechanicing mechanically on mechanics) and the rubber generally starts to peel off at the tips of the fingers and is actually pretty stiff. It peels and sticks off like a claw and for me, since it snags every time I try to put my hand in my pocket for a wrench or screwdriver, it's annoying and slows me down on the job. For anyone handling firearms it could be quite more than annoying if you're operating the controls on your weapon and those little extra fingers are hitting and snagging things they shouldn't. I can't really recommend these gloves since there's so many better options out there.
I wear these pretty much exclusively now and they're a much better glove; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007INZVHO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494520261&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mechanix+tactical+gloves&dpPl=1&dpID=51X-vZoJljL&ref=plSrch
Cotton gloves? These ones are meant for handling precious metals, but they would probably work fine for you.
Just search "cotton gloves" on Amazon or other online stores and you'll find lots of options.
Like everyone has said, there is no such thing as bifl gloves. I buy these quite often. There work very well and last a decent amount of time.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YPZLI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For one, hop back to your hobby store and stock up on Tamiya masking tape if you don't already have it.
This guide is very much brush-based but there should be some good tips about colour selection, and the use of sticks and clips to elevate parts to paint. I've used it as gospel for my painting and it's helped me a lot.
While not everyone says it's required, I'm going to super recommend you get some sort of heavy duty respirator as well. You don't wanna be inhaling this shit. Some people get away with basic white mouth masks but the respirators are better. And gloves, you'll need gloves.
Grab yourself a bottle of acrylic paint thinner too (also made by tamiya) and some Q-tips. I can't guarantee it'll work with sprays but a Q-tip dipped in thinner is the ultimate Gundam eraser for me.
Finally, don't be afraid to screw up! That's how you learn. I'd recommend you buy a "test kit" (either a superdeformed or a cheap HG) and just try a whole bunch of techniques on it.
+1 Don't use them with cutting tools.
But, these are sweet.
Oops, didn't see that, sorry. Well, good for you for getting treatment. It's not going to be a quick fix, though; you're likely going to have to be referred to a prescribing psychiatrist for meds (SSRI/SNRI). It's OK you were tired. It's not like you have to be bright and perky for your appt.
Try getting some cotton gloves like these: https://www.amazon.com/Size-Medium-Jewelry-Inspection-Premium/dp/B00CUN4SQC/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1469924020&sr=8-10&keywords=cotton+gloves
They'll protect your hands from dirt and bacteria without getting you all sweaty like surgical gloves would.
You could also mix up a jar of moisturizer to apply after you wash. Mix hand lotion of choice into a glob of petroleum jelly (you can do this with a fork or spoon) - add the lotion bit by bit so you can blend it really smooth. You want it to absorb into your skin but not be as quick-absorbing as the lotion. Then add a squeeze of antibiotic ointment. That's not going to make a massive difference, but it may work as a placebo for you. (Placebos work even if the user knows they're placebos!) Especially at night, put a lot of this mixture on your hands and wear a pair of cotton gloves. That should keep your skin from getting chapped.
If your eczema prevents you from using this mixture, the gloves alone may keep you from repetitive washing, because you have to take them off and put them back on each time, so it'll slow you down.
Hang in there. Help is on the way.
Ed. to add: The upside here is that you know the handwashing and the bacteria fear and the skin breakdown fear and the pollution fear are all kooky. They're not fact-based; they're just the way your brain is justifying your body being in anxious mode right now. "My heart is beating fast, I can't sleep - I must be worried about something , right? Except...no. It's just generalized anxiety. I was a door and pocket-checker.
given your links i think specifying country would help you out some with peoples suggestions.
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if you take into consideration this is the opinion of USA based stuff i tried to be helpful when i could
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the mesh mask like you linked is pretty much standard i would recommend that or something like [this one](https://www.amazon.it/pieghevole-protettiva-cinturino-regolabile-QM017-WL2/dp/B07C168FF8/ref=sr_1_21?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1537891661&sr=1-21&keywords=mesh+mask) not familiar with the language probably better deals but the padded sides conform better and will be a bit more comfortable.
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Goggles: not sure if in europe there is the same governing standards but US we use ansi Z87, i really like Pyramex Full seal dual pane goggles (couldn't find them on your amazon) but they run ~$15 here, ro like a pair of surplus desert Locust goggles off of ebay.
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Gloves: [Mechanix wear mpacts](https://www.amazon.it/Mechanix-Wear-M-Pact-Multicam-Multicolore/dp/B00LB46CM4/ref=pd_sbs_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LB46CM4&pd_rd_r=9dd90195-c0dd-11e8-92b3-217772d9a3e4&pd_rd_w=6PhCE&pd_rd_wg=JKyry&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A11IL2PNWYJU7H&pf_rd_p=18ac1db8-8667-475d-a3cb-dc2e0028cb9b&pf_rd_r=RXZEM45JCH5WZM14RHN7&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=RXZEM45JCH5WZM14RHN7) are gloves of my choice come in multicam, and some neutral earthy colors like coyote as well. The Mpacts have a rubber bumper on the back side of knuckles etc and still have good hand dexterity/feel they are pricier but quite well made in my book. Alternatively some mechanic type glove likely will offer good protection and handling dexterity and be found much cheaper wherever.
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Boots: Really get a decent hiking boot, to me then its dual purpose I use Salomon Gtx2 Mid's special colors arent a huge deal just go for something more natural in color unless you are stickler for a certain unit look (mine are actually a discountinued color which is a deep vibrant green certainly not military but hey they were cheaper and comfy gets the job done). Merrill, Lowa also known for good hiking boots over here. I feel like this one may be more dependant on whats available in your country but TDLR get a decent hiking boot in a neutral color. can use it for airsoft and hiking working etc
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Clothing: Thats a hard one a good entry point is usually army surplus but againd dependent on where you are. and or budgets as well some people go crazy with Crye and whatnot but my advice starting out keep it simple go like with some surplus it will be more durable than most "airsoft" marketed or grade stuff. High end being europe i think? i would say go like with claw-gear before Crye (actually imported clawgear to us here as was cheaper than crye been happy with it so far) But really some decent milsurp or mid/entry level branded tactical stuff like 5.11 etc vs airsoft or Chinese knockoffs.
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whew and sorry for the block of text!
I would look at cheap "synthetic leather" mechanics gloves. I have used a basic fake leather mechanics gloves for my hoof SG for the last few years and they held up well. If you shop aorund you can find similar branded gloves for around 8-20$.
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Original-Covert-Tactical/dp/B0019IC65O/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1499212157&sr=8-8&keywords=gloves+mechanix
These are soft, thin, stretchy, cheap white gloves you buy in bulk that might work I just tried typing with them, and you'd need them to be pretty snug, but I was definitely able to type in them.
The Skurka fav and UL miltiuse Showas would come in handy here. Keep dry, clear brush and bury the dead bodies.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015WU54Y4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NNIUCb4VYYKT2
The full leather ones are pretty warm. I have a pair of the gloves and mittens. I haven't had a day where I needed anything warmer. I wear the cloth-back ones the majority of the time though.
Though I'm not sure how available they are in Europe.
Consider Mechanix M-pacts instead, they are cheaper, protect your hands better for paintball and they come in multicam/coyote.
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MultiCam-Tactical-Camouflage/dp/B00LB46CM4/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LB46CM4&pd_rd_r=XRNXWPHWC908AY3XTGG5&pd_rd_w=wYpoz&pd_rd_wg=4HiiB&refRID=XRNXWPHWC908AY3XTGG5&th=1
I use these, they double as pretty good hiking/climbing gloves (original reason I got them was for my trail climbing in Peru)
I would imagine a steel mesh glove (covered with a food prep plastic glove) would dramatically improve the safety of even cheap mandolines for those who cannot afford a $200+ one. Not to detract from what you are saying - just expanding it to broaden options for those who aren't familiar.
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mesh-Hand-Glove/dp/B000NNT2EY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367499924&sr=8-2&keywords=chain+link+glove
A much cheaper alternative (though likely significantly less resistant [reviews state that it has protected them from mandoline cuts, but buyer beware and all that]):
http://www.amazon.com/BladeX5-Classic-Resistant-Gloves-Approved/dp/B003DZ02MA/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y#productDetails
I was thinking of picking up these, thoughts?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RW286U0/
heck yeah! i use these bad boys! As much as I love my aquariums, I find the idea of sticking my naked hand into an established tank to be super icky. haha
Gloves....just bought some new ones...lost the old ones...
try these...
Ive always used the Brown M-Pact gloves from mecanix. They held up well in a crash and I definitely slid on my hands.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007INZVHO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501865933&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=brown+mpact&dpPl=1&dpID=51X-vZoJljL&ref=plSrch
I use something like this, the price is pretty good as well. They should last you a while:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003DZ02RU/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=99BGV1PW06MB2GBDHED9&dpPl=1&dpID=8168rJ1DP7L
The rubber coating is nice for the occasions that there are liquids present, but decent cut resistance is more important. Lots of broken glass and sometimes actual knives in those bins, not to mention the crap you probably don’t want to touch with your bare hands anyway.
Gloves with cotton lining.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BZ8K4M/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?qid=1425485591&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=cleaning+gloves+with+cotton+lining
You can get cut and puncture resistant gloves.
Something like these. Or these Leather ones.
Then you can wear some 5 mil thick Nitrile Gloves over them. These are 9 mil thick. A 9 mil thick glove might be all you need.
Another thing I would do is carry around a can of lysol spray. That way you can spray anything you have to touch that might cut or break a normal latex/nitrile glove.
You want a Nitrile glove they are impervious to Diesel as well as other chemicals.
The standard are the exam Gloves which are good for fine work. But they also make Gloves dipped/coated in Nitrile.
If you want full protection something like these.
https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Glove-WG772M-26-Inch-Nitrile/dp/B001PBEJ00
These gloves are full dipped and a PVC cuff instead of a cotton cuff or being only palm dipped so they offer full protection for just hands.
https://www.airgas.com/product/Safety-Products/Gloves/Coated-Work-Gloves/p/MEG9786S
The thing is that they are not going to be really durable like leather gloves.
Ifg you just want palm coverage there are several cotton gloves with nitrile not coating everything.
You might also check out these.
http://www.superiorglove.com/work-gloves/leather-gloves/oil-resistant-leather-gloves
http://www.superiorglove.com/work-gloves/chemical-resistant-gloves
https://www.amazon.com/KINCO-INTERNATIONAL-901T-Thermal-Premium/dp/B00RW286U0
I would recommend anything by Mechanix. I have a pair of the original in high vis that I use on the job and when I bike. I also have a pair of their framer gloves. Personally I prefer framer gloves so I can still have the full dexterity of my bare fingers
little costly but help a shit ton , also helps when working on things like they where intended for
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-M-Pact-Fingerless-Black/dp/B0001VNYEC
they also make a cheaper pair
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MFL-55-010-Fingerless-Tactical/dp/B01EOWA4H8/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V2B6913ZFNNBGKH70PZB
I love projects like this. Your furnishings feel much more your own, and they take on a sense of permanence you can't get with big box furnishings.
A heat gun and putty knives work very well to remove the stickers. Use a low setting, don't keep the heat focused on one area for too long and keep an eye out for browning, singeing, smoking, and fire. You've got lots of space to work with so skip around to allow the wood to cool. You'll potentially be removing whatever finish is on the couch if you are too heavy handed and or use too much heat. If you plan on refinishing use the heat gun and putty knife to remove the finish.
You can try just scraping with a razor blade to remove most of the stickers and then saturating the area with full strength degreaser, such as D-Limonene.covering the area with a paper towel to keep the degreaser in place.
A couple of razor tools to consider: 4" wide short handled for large areas with thick layers of stickers. Smaller razor scrapers with metal and plastic blades. Plastic detail scrapers might be useful too.
Instead of using Goo Gone I like pure D-Limonene solution. It's a potent degreaser extracted from citrus peels and contains no petroleum distillates, unlike Goo Gone. It also comes in food safe solution - though to be safe for digestion it really does need to be quite dilute.
Use the putty knife and rags or gauze to clean the adhesive from the wood. Large Woven Gauze Sponges are more scratchy and will give more traction with absorption. Rolled Stretch Gauze Bandages have the same great absorbing properties but they're softer and great for detail work. You'll get to know what you prefer - I'm partial to gauze sponges. They're cheap and I just toss them into the compost bin as long as they aren't too bummed up with adhesive top.
To remove the degreaser dish soap and rubbing alcohol work well. I like Dr Bronner's castile soap diluted for dishwashing. Wipe down with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. You should be good to move on to your next step, probably sanding and smoothing, patching any holes or gouges to prep for staining and finishing or painting.
I linked a whole bunch of products to give you an idea of what will work for certain applications. There are definitely other ways to achieve the same goals, this is just how I tackle this task. Please don't order everything listed here at once, see what works from you. I link Amazon because they have everything but locally owned small businesses are an invaluable resource and great when you get stuck in a project.
Don't forget your PPE'S!
Dust Mask - I like this one as you can vacuum the filters out to extend the life and reduce waste. It has a smaller profile too - my husband actually doesn't complain about wearing it, just puts it on.
N95 Respirator
Replacement filters available on Amazon
Comfortable Safety Glasses or Goggles
Heat Resistant Gloves
Long Cuff Gloves Disposable
Some type of work gloves
Good luck!
I'd second /u/loansindi, the Dirty Rigger gloves are nice.
I generally have two or three pairs, depending on what exactly I'm doing - different gloves for loading cradles (as steel kills gloves fast), just cheap ones like [these] (https://www.ardmoor.co.uk/wso/images/library/hoggs-canadian-rigger-gloves.jpg?view=976); and then better made, closer fitting ones (like the Dirty Riggers) for actual flying operation.
I also like ones like these for lighter weight work, where I only need minimal protection [I typically wear these when I'm on a call bumping in flight cases, etc]. They're good for stuffing in a pocket (I also tend to cut the fingertips off for better dexterity, but that's a personal choice having assessed the risks specific to my environment).
They are way more fantastic than any pair of paintball specific gloves I have used
http://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Tactical-MultiCam-M-Pact/dp/B00LB46F5I?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AYXDX60/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Waterproof-Breathable-Technology-Insulation/dp/B015WU54Y4/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519794047&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Showa+Best+282+Atlas+TEMRES is what i use
Always gloves! I took a hit to my index finger and I think it cracked it. Took months to feel right again. I have a set of Mechanix M-pact. Nice and comfy, keeps my fingers warm in the cold, not too hot in the summer, and good grip. I don't feel like I'm losing any dexterity with them and they have rubber protection over the joints. My only complaint is them not working with touch screens.
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https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MultiCam-Tactical-Camouflage/dp/B00LB46F5I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550612251&sr=8-4&keywords=mechanix+mpact+gloves
Have you looked into fisherman gloves? Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Atlas-Waterproof-Breathable-Technology-Insulation/dp/B015WU54Y4
Why not just get the Framer gloves? They come with the thumb, index, and middle as fingerless.
Those exact ones are AP branded and were gifted from an AD. They're the gloves they use to showcase pieces are their boutiques.
But you can buy cloth gloves on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Meta-U-Wholesale-White-Cotton-Lining/dp/B00KRY6IGY/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496668635&sr=8-2&keywords=cloth+gloves
Nope, highly recommend them though, best gloves I’ve tried link
These gloves are the shit:
Mechanix Wear - MultiCam M-Pact Tactical Gloves (Large, Camouflage) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LB46CM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y17uzb0FGJTWY
I used them when I first started riding and now I use them for BMX. Tacticool all the way.
I started with a skate helmet, but have looked into gloves and knee pads. I like to ride in shorts, so the pads will help.
Considering a full face helmet now, but undecided. Visually it seems overkill, but I enjoy eating solid food.
Edit:
Gloves
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EOWA4H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3qmXBbM048Y0Q
Pads
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000ASZAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7rmXBb46ZB18V
I didn't want to spend $60 on karting gloves so I followed the common advice and got these Mechanix gloves. The major difference for me is that it allowed me to run a higher forcefeedback (still below clipping range of course) than I would normally run. The wheel felt much lighter because of the grip that the gloves offered me.
Same thing, just camo, and I love them
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mesh-Hand-Glove/dp/B000NNT2EY
Yeah, it's something like this
The kinco 901HK allows me to keep my gloves on and put on the skins. They don't stick to the leather that well. If you are not in a super wet area you can get these gloves + leather water proofer (you will need a hair dryer or heat gun. I am assuming you have a hair dryer).
https://www.amazon.com/Kinco-Pig-Skin-Glove-Gloves/dp/B01CFWIRIC
You cannot put another glove over them easily ...
They also have a mitten though you do loose dexterity:
https://www.amazon.com/KINCO-INTERNATIONAL-901T-Thermal-Premium/dp/B00RW286U0
one cart would be a little hard to do..but im bored atm so I guess I can link stuff from head to toe lol
Head: Dye Mask + Beanie
Neck: Neck wrap thing
Chest: SS Lv119 Overt + SS Micro Flight
Back: Flatpack or Minimap
Hands: Gloves
Belt: Ronin or HSGI Slim
Sidearm: G19
Primary: Mp5
Boots: Merrell
Regulator: Dual or nothing
Tanks: Slim yet plenty of air
also not even going off your 1k budget lol. pick and choose what you want but this is one of my setups. can always buy knockoff versions if you like it
I don't like wrist guards at all because it immobilize movement of my wirst which is really annoying if I want to pull out my phone from my pocket or whenever I need to move my wrist in general.
I recommend getting these...
Mechanix Wear - M-Pact Fingerless Covert Tactical Gloves https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EOWA4H8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
These Tactical gloves absorbs hard impacts really well, and I can tell you it does for sure! I ate shit without my glove before @ 15mph and had a deep cut on my left palm and it hurt like hell. Then I fell again but @25+ mph with these gloves and I walked away with no injuries and only some soreness in my palms. (Both accidents I fell landing on my hands first).
Any elbow/knee pads are fine. I'm looking into getting a full body motercycle armor jacket because my pads ripped during that +25 mph spill.
Full face helmets are recommend going 20+ mph. I've meet a guy in college this year where he had fell off his board in the past wearing a normal skate helmet with no face protection and he ended up breaking his jaw bone and gotten with heavy scars all over his face. Till this day, it affected him up so hard that he slurrs when he speaks and people gives him stares.
Normal helmets are recommend for cruising speeds 15 mph max speed. Most riders here in this subreddit seem to ride around these speeds anyways.
I recently lost a hunk of thumb to my mandoline slicer while watching football, so I invested in one of these. Wear protection, people!
I prefer something with a little ventilation, something like this or this. I tried a pair of karting gloves but found them too heavy for the summer months.
Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.
I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.
 
If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
Silica Sand 6lbs
2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
25lbs Rutland castable cement
Kaowool Insulation Blanket
Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
 
The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
 
 
Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
Here's some random tips;
Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
Random informational videos
Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
Grain Structure of Metal
Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Glove-WG772M-26-Inch-Nitrile/dp/B001PBEJ00
Assuming you aren't joking about the gloves, try these. I bought them after I accidentally sliced open my finger with a box cutter. They will protect against most potential cuts. They're comfortable and cheap.
Mechanix is always a solid choice. These are my favorites and these if you want full finger.
EDIT: Make sure you're authorized to get these types. Unless your command gives no fucks.
Tried everything else before I bought some of these and I haven't looked back.
They are hard to manipulate small things with, but for just general siphoning and moving around larger things - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PBEJ00/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 might consider long arm gloves
I got some Mechanix gloves, they work pretty well. I can still get blisters if I'm not careful, but they help a lot.
I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ8K4M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for $10. I don't think you can use them for bbq. I love how long these are as I can pretty much squeeze a 16lb bag of hot grains without burning my forearms.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LB46CM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006WPSDXS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Here are the first things to get. Gloves, because getting shot in the fingernail and having it rib backwards f*%$ing sucks, and good eye protection. The rest is up to you.