Best lab supplies according to redditors

Here's the test I bought. It comes with two testing sticks.

You can also buy desiccant in bulk and that’s literally its entire purpose. To absorb moisture.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qd0tDb54HBNDZ

Follow these steps I posted from another comment. Doing this will ensure you get pure, strong, and environmentally friendly carts.

Let me show you how to make your own refillable, non disposable, strong af carts. It takes time but it's so worth it, trust me. It comes out cheaper over the long run.

Step 1: acquire your favorite concentrate.

Step 2: acquire some empty carts with a little dropper tool. (or buy blunted syringes).

Step 3: buy shatter batter

Step 4: this is actually a list of steps that come with shatter batter. Basically you microwave your wax with the shatter batter for like 15 seconds. Make sure it's mixed good. Then you just drop it into your carts. Literally that easy. 10 minutes of your time gets you 3-5 carts.

Step 5: fucking bake in all your glory at being an independent bastion of toasty environmental awesomeness

I found this crazy setup at Walmart if all places that has the carts, shatter batter, and the dropper in one kit.

Please please please use the correct tips. Throw that thing in a sharps container somewhere and order these instead

Edit: Also for the love of god, everyone use a sharps container. Your trash guy doesn't need that struggle.

I collect cast iron. Most of the time if the pan has been used for lead casting the patina/seasoning will be completely destroyed and that's a good indicator. However, If I'm extra suspicious and paranoid, which I am most of the time, I'll use a 3M lead test kit to test multiple pans at once, finishing by checking the kit against the control they include. That'll let you sleep at night.

Will do! Thanks for bringing this to my attention!

Edit: Just ordered a Lead Tester kit from Amazon, https://www.amazon.ca/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519776303&sr=8-4&keywords=lead+test+kit

Will keep everyone updated!

In terms of water absorption from the air, most cat litter is surprisingly ineffective. I use these indicating reusable silica beads from amazon to keep my 3d printer filament dry. Works wonderfully and when it changes color you just pop it in the oven for a few hours and they're ready to go again.

Syringe

https://smile.amazon.com/Bstean-Syringe-Blunt-Tip-Needle/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524590844&sr=8-4&keywords=blunt+syringe&dpID=518U71I8%252BzL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

PTC taste test strips. One like this: http://www.amazon.com/PTC-TASTE-PAPER-VIAL-STRIPS/dp/B001D7FF5E

7.4

Might want to consider one of these if you are color blind. pH Meter

Collecting games and systems can be a very exciting and rewarding hobby. I would start by picking a collecting goal before embarking on this journey. Here are some items to consider.

• Do you only collect games that you want to play, or do you want to include other criteria?
  
• Do you want to collect from a single region or all regions -- such as only NA copies.
  
• Just the game disc, game and cover, CIB?
  
• Are you including Special Editions and cover variants?
  
• Where are you going to store your collection? (Don't overlook this item and it's impact on your partner and housemates.)
  
• Are you looking for promotional materials, posters, and other Wii-branded tchotchkes?
  
  Here are some links you may find helpful.
  
  
• Spare Game Cases. You may find it easier to by a dozen or so and keep them handy. You may find the perfect game, but the case is ruined, has a sticker on it that won't come off, or it's just the wrong case, but the rest is fine.
  
• The Cover Project. You may find that some games have missing covers. This side has a repository so you can print off Game Covers for many games and regions.
  
• List of Wii Games. The fine folks at Wikipedia have curated a list of Wii games from across regions. You can peruse this list to help your formulate your collecting criteria.
  
• Silica Gel Packets. I keep these stored with games packed away in boxes. Humidity is a silent killer of retro games -- Disc rot is real!
  
• Mini Dehumidifier. I keep these in my enclosed bookshelves.
  
  Good luck and have fun!
  

It's not a genome test, it's a PTC test. A quick google search gave me this Though that's a way larger quantity than you'd want. You might be able to get one from free from any highschool biology department I think they're pretty popular in labs.

Mine was under 5 and over 4 and it's a brand new bottle. This happened to me before, where new products, but old bottles of products were not testing right. I had bought new test strips. So I got a different brand of test strips and re-tested everything a week later and the results came out right. .My experience is that not all test strips are equal.

Husband is a chemE. said test strips are not definative because of light and heat and external influences. Never mind manufacturers. He recommends the brand PH Hydrion. Of course, he hasn't worked in a lab in decades. But he remembered everyone using them in the lab. He also said he never used test strips, he used PH meters.

The substance used for these test strips is indeed Phenylthiocarbamide (PTC), which is the substance mentioned in the article as being similar to the bitter compound in Brussels sprouts.

Bitter Test Strips:
http://www.amazon.com/PTC-TASTE-PAPER-VIAL-STRIPS/dp/B001D7FF5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341172595&sr=8-1&keywords=bitter+test+strips

I’d say tents and hard gear would be ok. Fold or hang them loosely. Make sure they are totally dry before storing. Sleeping bag and clothing should stay inside.

Get some of this for inside, and and if you seal the outdoor storage door, the outside as well.

5 Pounds of Industry Standard 3-5 mm Large Blue Beaded Indicating Silica Gel Desiccants and Dehumidifier, Air-Tight Can for Storage - RECHARGEABLE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a9bYAb0CZXS54

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-PTC-Paper-Strips-Vial/dp/B001D7FF5E

Buy this. If you put it in your mouth and it tastes bitter straight away your a "super taster"

Apartment or house? In a house, keep the games in the driest, most temperature-consistent part of it, probably your basement. Either way, invest in a small dehumidifier. Some people also swear by silica packets for mold prevention, stash a few in each of your game boxes.

You're not stupid or a fool, you're naive to growing plants- stupid and foolish people don't ask questions so stop putting yourself down or be hesitant to ask questions or ask for help. You can PM me or others if you're a bit shy about public posting.

My first grow lights in 1995 were incandescent "plant bulbs" which, of course, didn't work out too well. That was so naive but I very quickly learned and moved on through the whole gamut of plant lighting and trying different types of reflectors.

I don't recommend the following method to this extreme but as an amusing anecdote my first plants all died because I wanted to see how plants work and we learn more in our failures than successes. I would pour a little table salt on them (this would induce osmosis problems and interfere with potassium uptake), over and under fertilize them, shock them with a high voltage power supply (would the whole plant die or just this one branch?), put a clear plastic bag over them so the relative humidity would be 100%, try different soils, slowly heat the soil up until fungus problems occured and do other types of "failure mode analysis". I couldn't go online and ask for help so this seemed like a logical way to learn. It wasn't until my wife (at the time) insisted I knock it off and actually flower them out ("damn it, you promised me buds!") so for the first 6 months or so I just worked on how veging and cloning worked.

You can not reliably fix or even diagnose nutrient problems without having a proper pH since an improper pH can cause nutrient uptake problems. I use pH test strips since there are no special storage techniques, no calibration issues, can test a single drop of solution, accurate enough, etc. Only get the pH 5.5-8.0 version of pH test strips if you go this route, not 1-14 version which are not accurate enough. I don't know why some hydro shops sell pH 1-14 test strips.

Don't love your plants to death. The harder you push a plant the more likely problems can occur.

I keep these in with my ammo, it may help.

So, for funsies I tested the Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid with these paper pH strips and got a pH of ~5. Paula's website lists a pH of 3.5-3.9. The strips were effective at testing my other products, so why is the pH of the BHA Liquid so far off? Is there something about the product that makes pH testing more complicated, or does this product not work with paper strips? Or did I get a bad batch?

E: Here are some pictures I took of the test strip.

Be sure to test with LeadCheck LC-2SDC Disposable Non-Staining Lead Detection Swabs, 2 Per Pack. Colored pieces from China typically contain lead but sometimes you can find a piece without. I highly recommend only getting clear pieces from China whenever possible.

whaaaat? thats not possible! haha, i have a pair that is really pointy, BUT, they dont "grip" and when i'm trying to pull something out, it just slips right thru... i need a pair that HOLDS! ive gotta find out what kind these are!
EDIT: adding a link - wonder if these would work?! http://www.amazon.com/Marrywindix-Tweezers-Non-magnetic-Forceps-Anti-static/dp/B00DVIEJ14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454113263&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+tweezer

Yes. Quite easily. The relationship is the following

If i have 1lb of force and want to lift something that weighs 4lbs i'll need two pistons right?

piston A with 1lb of force will have a surface area (pi*r^2) of idk, .5sqin.

piston B with 4lbs of load that you want to move will need a surface area 4x higher than piston A. so 2 sqin in this case.

The problem is when you move piston A 2 inches piston B (with the 4lb load) will only move .5 inches.

This scales linearly so if you want to lift a car with 1lb of force you can. but you better be able to move the piston a long long way to get the job done.

EDIT: a kit like this with some tubing will give you everything you need to demonstrate this at home. I don't know the tube diameters but you can measure them and figure out the ratio pretty easily. https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Liquids-cigs-juice/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=syringe&qid=1562950408&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I have fallen completely in love with pens and their portability/strength. I use one of the 510 batteries from Curaleaf (free on first purchase) and I bought refillable ccell cartridges from here and syringe tips for easy refilling. I am able to control the temperature and length of hit perfectly. The taste is great and I do not experience that awful taste like I did when I used atomizer-based vapes, if that's what you're referring to.

For shatter I will use my Yocan Evolve, when I can get my hands on the stuff...tru shatter sells out right away!

You could buy silica bead packets like these or collect them from whatever items you get them in otherwise and keep a couple in a ziploc bag with your WIPs to keep moisture out? I like the idea of dryer sheets too, they come out smelling great!

Buy a small syringe kit - amazon.com
1ml Syringe with 18Ga 1.5'' Blunt Needle and Plastic Needle with Matching Cap (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBSWJ5R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F-kSBbXSAKQGY

Then buy an empty cart. Ccell is the best.
https://hamiltondevices.com/ccell-0-5ml-glass-cartridge-with-white-ceramic-mouthpiece.html

If you're in an apartment, you're not going to be able to make any permanent modifications, meaning that even with a safe in general they could walk out with it (though I don't know what size of safe you have). My first instinct was hardcase with padlock holes (say, pelican), add dessicants to deal with any trapped moisture (check and bake as necessary!). Then get some relatively thick steel security cable and run it through the padlocks and around something large and heavy (chunky part of bedframe, desk, etc) to make it harder to just walk off on you. Preferably do this in such a way that you can hide the case as a result.

Or, if you're worried about it, willing to spend the money, and are planning on using the shotgun solely for trap, get a storage locker in a self-store facility that allows firearms. Or check with your trap range to see if they rent lockers for storage.

I bought these. It's like a pH strip tape dispenser. I heard you shouldn't apply the strips directly to your vaginal wall or cervix- that may be harmful. So, I just swabbed my cervix and wiped on the strip. Since I already check my CM this way anyway, I figured I may as well use the sample. ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Before you do anything, I'd recommend purchasing and using a leaf test system. Lots of options out there like these swabs from Amazon.

LeadCheck LC-2SDC Disposable Non-Staining Lead Detection Swabs, 2 Per Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mPT5xb89MTY71

If you do have lead on the chest, I'd recommend removing the paint all together instead of painting or sealing over it. Obviously using a mask when you sand the old stuff of and using a collection system for the dust rather than letting it fall over your workspace.

Cleaning up lead paint is a task, and if you are inexperienced in the process you may consider taking it to a proffesional to have it completed. It would be a very cool project to hold onto for future generations. Good luck.

all it takes is a bit of simple math. you can buy everything you need aside from the liquid nicotine on amazon. i myself use 100%vg juice so i dont buy pg at all but a large bottle of vg will run you about 20 to 25 dollars, 1 gallon for me is 22 at the moment. you can also find packs of empty bottles for around 10 bucks, then youll need measuring syringes for mixing, flavor drops and the nicotine all of which are linked below.

i would just mix small batches first if you arent sure what a juice would taste like after your done then mix a full bottle, this way you can experiment with flavor mixes and see what you can create.

for a 100 ml bottle its really easy youll just need to figure out how much nic to put in, i vape at 6% nic so i measure out 94 ml of vg and the last remaining 6 ml i put in as the nicotine, after that the base is done, then just drop in the flavor drops, shake it like crazy, let it settle for a bit and boom juice done.

there are also some sites out there with premade mixture recipes that you can find and follow

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HSDNS4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3O37MU47F4102&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y8UX80/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1ZOAQ4ZHE42HG&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CFJ51X4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A35C2NGNUSD9X5&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WUPUYCC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2S5SG4CMI156J&psc=1

https://liquidnicotinewholesalers.com/250mg-nicotine-liquid.html

I use these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1VO3E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DJ-XBbB511XK1

And these

https://vapepenswholesale.com/collections/empty-oil-cartridges/products/black-ceramic-tip-vape-cartridge-glass-tank-ccell

Coupon code: VIPVAPE15

Gets you 15% off

Edit:
Don't waste your money on the Truclear warmer

Lost ocean 100pcs Green Color Metal Blunt Tip Dispensing Needle (14G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1VO3E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Da2OCb005Q4BQ

1ml oral syringes are my go-to for accurate volumetric dosing.

OP the reality is you’re lazy AF or blind as a bat. In either case, if you can’t see the numerous syringe options doing a simple Amazon and/or Google search then you probably shouldn’t be injecting anything into your body.

I and plenty of other posters have purchased regular syringes off of Amazon. You should really use these, it will go real smooth and won’t hurt at all


Link

I’m all seriousness even though you’re coming off as an ungrateful, know it all prick, who won’t search . Here you go your search done for you

23g 1.5

Blunt tip 1ml syringe work great for making capsules and measuring. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBSWJ5R/

As others have said - Sailor/Whaling art.

Without removing the paint --- and for the benefit of the person appraising

​

Do not clean - patina might be important to the value.

​

(A) find a place that is missing paint and get a picture of the wood grain - and type of wood

Tight grain - often means very old wood, or old things, loose (wide) grain means newer wood.

​

(B) Local hardware store might have a lead paint test - it is a simple chemical test, the type I've used turns RED if lead is present.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I

LEAD was commonly used for paint - it's not totally hazardous if you are careful with it. It is hazardous if you have a small child and the chew on this thing, or lick the dust off with their tongue - That said - lead was most commonly used for the color WHITE - ie: "White lead", in old nautical wood things you might find what is called "red lead" as a filler or bedding compound between pieces of wood.

You're probably opening a can of worms with that question. I can tell you that in beer-making using bought spring water VS the well water where I lived made a significant improvement.

BUT!!!.... we're not making beer, we're going to distill it anyway, right? So, if you have no reason to think there's something in you tap water that is undesirable it may be okay to use it.

HOWEVER!!... What is critical is the pH of the water. You can buy some cheap pH test strips if you want. My water was way high, close to 9. Your yeast likes it around 5.2. I use this 5.2 pH stabilizer stuff, it seems to work and will last you a long, long time. You'll probably get more alchohol because the ideal pH lets it ferment more completely and quickly.

That said, you can probably skip all that and use your tap water and it will still turn out fine, you can probably buy spring water or distilled water and it will turn out fine. But keep in mind those store bought waters do nothing to maintain a consistent pH, and that's what your yeast really cares about.

All in all, buying water is probably cheap insurance, but since I've been using my tap water and getting good results I would only do it as an experiment. Maybe you would do the opposite, use bought water for awhile and then try the tap one time and see what difference you notice.

If you can unscrew the atomizer on both and the funnel fits, you can pour with a steady hand. You can also use plastic pipettes; they are cheap as chips.

If the atomizers can't be removed I use these syringes and followed that video.

Used 14g blunt tips and they worked great, cheap for 100: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1VO3E6

Yes, plus 5 Gram [60 Packs] Silica Gel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7V19JE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Different people's taste buds sense bitterness differently. People who like IPAs are much less sensitive to bitterness and therefore it doesn't overwhelm the other flavors that come from the hops. You can even get these to test your bitter sensitivity: http://www.amazon.com/PTC-TASTE-PAPER-VIAL-STRIPS/dp/B001D7FF5E. Kind of a fun party trick.

Just order some test strips from Amazon. If it tastes really bitter, you're probably a supertaster.

I don't have that cleanser or I would test it for you. Just a HU, I bought these testing strips from Amazon, and now I test all the things!

I can't get an exact 3.6 for example, but for our purposes, it works.

The reaction that is happening is

Zn + 2 HNO3 -> Zn(NO3)2 + H2

Zinc + nitric acid produces zinc nitrate and hydrogen gas

So as your bath is being exhausted, the HNO3 is being used up. Eventually it'll stop because the HNO3 is all gone. What you could get is some pH paper. That will tell you how acidic the solution is. A fresh batch should have a pH around 0-1. As it reacts it'll get closer to a pH of 7. For your bath, it'll never get above 7 since that is a basic solution.

The reaction might start slowing down once it's above a pH of 5-6, but you'll have to do a little monitoring to see what's best.

They've been stored right. These are the ones I use: https://www.amazon.com/Hydrion-paper-Dispenser-Color-Chart/dp/B005FYGXUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486171334&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+hydrion

Here's the thing though, I hope I'm wrong. I just noticed that the COSRX BHA wasn't doing anything for me, so purchased another bottle thinking I got unlucky. Used that for a couple weeks, nothing. Decided to test the pH of both and BOOM. Around 6. Then I came here in a panick haha.

If anybody has other BHA recommendations with a minimal ingredient list, preferably one that uses betaine salicylate. PLEASE indulge me.

I suffered yeast recurrent yeast infections for 2.5 years! This all started from taking antibiotics. I tried boric acid, 90 billion culture probiotics, maintenance fluconazole (1 time every week), several vaginal creams-you name it. I tested for HIV and diabetes-negative. The recurrent bv/yeast specialist at my obgyn office was baffled at my issues!

I am not sure what ended up working for me. I have been clear for a little less than a year now. I have a few theories: 1.) I stopped using the pill and went on an IUD 1.5 years ago. I believe this helped somewhat (lower hormone dose). 2.) I don't wear underwear at night, and sleep without shorts/pants. 3.) I just rinse with water in the shower and use only coconut oil to shave. 4.) I use an AWESOME organic water-based lube that is pH balanced (the company UK based by the name of YES). 5.) Before bed I rinse my vulva/vag off with warm water using a "perrineal bottle", which is basically a squirt bottle. 6.) When I get a uti, I buy d-mannose, and add it to my water. I have cured several utis using this. D-mannose is a special sugar that clings to e-coli in the urinary tract/bladder and flushes it out when you pee. I swear it works just as well as antibiotics. You have to make sure you take the right dosage. Some supplements just provide a dose enough to prevent but not cure utis. I was skeptical at first, but it is something I wish I knew about earlier. Check it out on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SK66UJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1448632306&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=d+mannose+uti
7.) I stopped taking maintenance doses of fluconazole and only used it when I had an active infection. Over the course of 2.5 years, I probably got more than 30-40 infections.

Edit: I also use this to test if I have bv or yeast: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FYGXUC/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484881069&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Normal vaginal ph is between 3.8-4.5. BV will cause your pH to be off, but yeast will not.

I use these tweezers on my semps. It’s [a little too] satisfying.

I bought all my materials from Amazon and I've done about 3 Mods.

Heres a little documentation of my 1st one.

Seiko 5 Mod; PAM Cali Dial & Sword Hands & some more photos

Some things that I suggest you get before starting.

• Magnifier Opposed to a Loupe this works well and is rather convenient with 3 magnifications
  
  
• Precision Tweezers You need, need this. Seriously
  
  
• Crystal Press Self explanatory
  
  
• Dust Blower Often times you get dust on your dial while it sits, so get this to get rid of it
  
  
• Hand Press I don't particularly like the hand remover included but it does the job just fine
  
  
• Cushioned Holder I used this to hold the movement taking it out of the case
  
  
• Silicone Grease Used to grease the gaskets for increased water resistance
  
  
• Caseback Ball One of the best things you can get to be honest, it removes most casebacks
  
  
• Movement Holder To uhh, hold the movement
  
  
• Precision Screwdrivers You need this to unscrew the movement from the holders, also good tool to use for when you take apart movements to learn
  
  
• Hypo Cement Used this for bezel attachments for when you change em up
  
  Let me know if you've any questions, I'd be willing to help you out and answer them to the best of my ability :)
  
  Cheers!

Unable? Not so my friend! You just need to keep it sorta roomtemp as I understand. I personally keep mine in a fridge, but that's unnecessary I think. I use a small dark glass bottle, that holds 30ml - which I drop a tab into, and then use a blunted syringe to extract 1.5ml–3ml per dose (depending how much I want that day).

Volumetric is a WAY WAY better way of doing it than cutting up tabs. I'm sure if your bedroom is even a remotely normal room temp your little bottle will be just fine in a drawer or something.

The dark glass bottle, and the syringes (science/non medical type) are available on amazon for not too much money.

— Here is the type of bottle I have (these are very very nice, you could probably get away with a cheaper one, but hey, it's nice to have nice things :)

https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Jars-Travel-Ultraviolet-Screwtop/dp/B00N5FLUYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502672177&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=infinity+jar&psc=1

Measurement:
https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk010-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502672271&sr=8-1&keywords=Duda+Energy+Syringepk010+Industrial+Syringes+with+15G+x+1-1%2F2%22+Blunt+Tip+Fill


Math is easy. If you put a tab say a 100ug tab into 30ml of water, then if you take 3ml of that water, you would be getting 10% of that tab. 5—15% is usually a good amount, and you might find that less works better for you.

The ALD52 I have is 125ug per tab. So 125ug in 30ml of distilled water means that 3ml of solution equals 12.5ug of a dose - and often, I take half of that, so only 1.5ml of soultion.

As others have said, starbucks coffee usually gives away old stuff for free (bring a rubermaid tote or your car will likely get some unwanted coffee juice leaked through). The vinegar thing depends on the water you use. If your water comes from an aquifer, its going to have some (maybe lots) of calcium in it that causes it to be basic. You want it to be acidic, hence the vinegar. The problem is that vinegar (acetic acid) is a weak acid and not very concentrated. If you don't use enough acid to neutralize the base in the water, you're still going to be screwed. The easy thing to do is to buy some litmus paper on amazon (try here). My water is so hard I had to get concentrated hydrochloric acid (roughly 12 M, and they sell it at lowes surprisingly!) It would take about 8 mL of conc HCl to 4 gallons of hard water in order to drive down the pH.

Don't use softened water (too much salt!). What I ended up doing is collecting rain water in a rain barrel. Water your plants daily (they like well drained moist soil).

A big thing to keep an eye out for... Look at the color of your leaves. If you're doing the pH thing right, your leaves will be a nice green color but if the soil/water is too basic (too high on the pH scale), they'll start to turn red. When this starts to happen you need to correct your problem quickly or you're screwed for the season. Once the leaves turn red, they don't normally turn back, however, new growth will grow green. If the plants aren't happy, they won't make fruit.

If you have other questions, hit me up. I'm doing this for my fourth year and I'm finally getting most of the kinks worked out of my system. Lots of failures but I'm expecting much better results this year! Best of luck!!

Even in this thread there seems to be some disagreement over it! From what I'm understanding in the other comments, carbonation itself causes a drop in ph, which will damage enamel (see: pH levels source and 'danger zone' links from the dentist student), so yes, carbonated water, on its own, will damage enamel through changing acidity of your mouth (another peer-reviewed source that I found through browsing, since I prefer to give academic sources where possible lol; on the other hand, some brands of seltzer water apparently actively try to balance the pH of their drinks to correct for the acidification produced by carbonation, so that they are no longer damaging. Ultimate recommendation is probably to pick up some litmus strips for cheap on Amazon, check the pH of your drink yourself, and if it's acidic, mitigate any enamel damage by drinking with a straw and rinsing your mouth after drinking the beverage.

Buy one of these

Bluelab if you have the money for sure, but for a cheaper option I'd definitely recommend a Jellas Ph pen. I used it for ages before I upgraded. Just remember to calibrate once a week or so.

https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC

I bought the two below (the first results for pH meter and PPM meter respectively). They are well reviewed and have worked great for me.

https://smile.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491933088&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ph+meter&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/HM-Digital-Measurement-Resolution-Accuracy/dp/B0002T6L5M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491933118&sr=8-3&keywords=ppm+meter

If you need EC instead of PPM I can't help you, but you can convert between the two I believe.

Id definitely get a PH pen, those drops are not accurate enough for growing marijuana IMO.
I use this, haven't had any problems with it
https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496106446&sr=8-3&keywords=PH+pen

I have yet to have issues with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBUH4RC/

Works well, accurate (compared with other meters and stays right on)

These have been just fine for me, and it is more economical. I bought 2 of them, one as a back up. They both hold their calibration rather well, and I won't be quite as pissed if I break one as if I had spent $80 on it.

I've got some old spore syringes - 10ml. Would they work? This is the product https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0161V0024/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'd take off the needle, and just put it up thar and inject the water.
I'm considering just sipping the beers... I just want to enhance the trip in any way possible. I've smoked alot in past trips, but I wanna hear some first hand accounts on if anyone has ended a t break while tripping.

That oil is very viscous you won’t be pouring it anywhere. (And those carts suck IMO). To answer your question, you need some blunt tipped syringes. I found a variety pack on amazon for less than $10.

I emptied one on these apex and another similar one from theory wellness (again, bad cart) into used mostly empty ones from sage (really good cart). Works fantastic.

To reduce viscosity and make it easier to suck up with the syringe, use a hairdryer on warm to throughly heat the cart and oil.

Edit:: link
Check this out: 9 Pack - 10ml, 3ml, 1ml Syringes with 14Ga and 18Ga Blunt Tip Needl... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_8drXzb76J26XX

I get mine from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016Q5YVK2/ - Assorted sizes set (out of stock)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0187LGYCG/ - 5ml Airless Pumps (about the size of my thumb)
I would LOVE to find a glass airless pump bottle though!

A fill syringe is awesome for decanting. You don't have to touch the product, and don't expose as much to air! I got the kind for glycerin and they work pretty well. The thicker creams are a pain, but you can use a syringe if you have patience.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CFJ51X4/

This set of [syringes](http://www.BSTEAN.com/ Syringe Blunt Tip Needle and Cap - 10ml, 5ml, 3ml, 1ml Syringes 14ga 16ga 18ga 20ga Blunt Needles - Oil or Glue Applicator (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SkBuDb127QQVQ) will change the game for Star San, lactic acid, etc. additions.

Having a set of cheap bar rags has incredible.

I use a cookie cooling rack on the ledge in my keezer for oint glasses so that there's airflow under them and they aren't sitting in condensation.

A 2 cup pyrex measuring cup and small whisk for everything from gelatin additions to dissolving campden additions.

Harbor Freight nitrile mechanics gloves for cleaning when things like PBW or BLC are involved. They're think and don't rip and also have longer wrists than the food service ones.

Lost ocean 100pcs Green Color Metal Blunt Tip Dispensing Needle (14G)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1VO3E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7QjWCbJQ962VT

Just did the same thing this week! It’s been working out really well. I recommend getting some blunt tipped needles (I used these Lost ocean 100pcs Green Color Metal Blunt Tip Dispensing Needle (14G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1VO3E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tb3VDb0DYTGDJ) that attach to the end for injecting the warmed up oil into the cart to minimize waste.

Don't use rice, it will leave a gross residue that will get into all the books and crannies.

Use silica gel, like the packets that come in clothes and shoe boxes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_fzVTDb5HMDS35

so, first and foremost, we're far more active on /r/RATS. (im basically subbed here to tell people this).

but, im currently going through this with two of my boys. They're both on antibiotics and an anti-inflammatory. What you can do in the mean time though, is take him into the bathroom and run the shower as hot as possible. Just hang out with him and let him breathe in the steamed air. You can dilute some honey in some water and feed that to him. I suggest getting a non-needle syringe. something like this. you can find them at pharmacies. You can use this to feed him water and the honey mixture. Dark chocolate is good too. there's some sort of chemical in that that helps them breathe. I also heard you can give him rosemary but ive never tried that.

The biggest thing that helped was firm tapping with my finger on the side of his body right behind his arm. Dean boggles now when i do this to him and he's not even really sick anymore.

This is definitely the recommended way to do it!

Also a related tip - for more portable dosing you can dissolve it into much smaller volumes (ie 10mg / mL), measure it out precisely with a 1mL/1cc syringe and store it in capped plastic centrifuge tubes.

That makes it easier you can hand out volumetric doses to friends, store them in your pocket for easy consumption later in the day, etc. I find 2c-b is one of the easier psychedelics to handle in social/public/crowded environments and it’s very redoseable, so it’s particularly useful to have a convenient way to take more on the go.

It’s also worth noting that 2c-b is a very hardy compound (like most phenethylamines) - it’s not as necessary to use any special water for it, it’ll stay potent dissolved in regular tap water for years. If you’re doing volumetric measuring with something more delicate like LSD then it’s very important to use water without any chloride, which will degrade it over time.

To add on to OP, a good solution for dosing in smaller tanks:

[Syringes](1ml 1cc Syringe with Luer Slip Tip, No Needle, Non-Sterile (Pack of 50) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N01TO2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6dnLybHRB4RVD) with blunt tips. They come in a range of sizes, but this one is good for 10gallons especially! I dose around 0.8mL twice a week.

These help a ton with the mandalas. Dunno how well they will ice dye either, I'd imagine it will run at least a bit. The ice dye looks cool though, you could always do the center normal and the rest ice. But don't let that discourage you; if you think of a way to pull it off let me know!

You can use PTC test strips to see if you're a supertaster.

Also: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001D7FF5E

I won't be able to tell you for sure for about 2 months. But if you store your tools in a tool box. And then put a dehumidifier in the box and as other people say put some oil/wax on the tool it should stay rust free.

There are reusable dehumidifies that you reset by baking them in an oven. As seen here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025OO8DO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qzEhzbX8Q0SP8


I use jojoba oil, which is really a liquid wax. But 3in1 machine oil is a tried and true rust prevention.

This guy tests and documents in a fairly rigorous way the "best" rust prevention.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

Best of luck.

Plastic isn't going to hurt your toy, however if you don't let it dry off entirely before you put it inside the bag your probably going to run into some trouble.

I go a little overboard, but I have a lot of toys.

I store all my stuff in this guy THE TOY BOX

I wrap each of the toys in this THE WRAPS

I put a bunch of these in the toybox to snatch up any extra moisture and to keep my toys from getting really nasty and moldy/mildew. [The no mold safeguard](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025OO8DO
/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1421962870&sr=1&keywords=silica+gel)

And lastly I clean my toys using this The Cleaner

I have over a grand in toys in this thing though, looks like a toolbox so nobody really thinks...."there's probably dildos in that thing" and it's really heavy duty I mean this thing can take a beating like crazy so during travel and such I don't have to worry about rough handling of it. Also it can be locked with a padlock to keep nosey people out. The only downside is that it's watertight but the silica gel will dry up any moisture that gets in.

I was using gun oil to prevent corrosion of my steel. Another poster here suggested that might be a bad idea. After a lot of searching and reading pretty much every thread on the topic on B&B and SRP (there are several in the archives), I decided NOT to oil my razor at all, as the general consensus is that oils can do more harm than good. For those who do choose to oil their blades, mineral oil or non-corrosive gun oils are the most popular choices.

Now, instead of oiling, I wipe it down with a TUF-cloth and store my razors inside a silicone gun sleeve in a drawer with a small rechargeable silica dehumidifying canister. Probably overkill protection, but it's easier than oiling and I feel much better protected with a total long term investment of $22.

I use Hydrion test strips (the 5.5 to 8.0 range) and have for a long time now with great success.

Read through the article, you will get a lot of information. Feel free to google words you don't know. In short, in milk, the main spoilage is driven by gram-negative bacteria. They are able to grow a little better than other bacteria in cold temperatures and over time their concentration is high enough where they start changing the chemical make-up of the milk. Mainly, it seems that they release enzymes that break up the fats in milk (not entirely sure about non-fat milk) to other fats whose taste we don't like.

Measuring different kinds of fats, or bacterial concentrations is possible, but to do so cheaply with a simple readout on a carton or bottle is very hard. You will have to go for something that can have an easy read-out but is still indicative of the bacterial concentration. As you guessed, a good metric may be pH. It turns out, many bacteria like to make lactic acid as they grow, especially without too much oxygen, which lowers the pH of the milk.

Again, there are studies already available on the change of pH of spoiling milk, but this is where the fun part comes in. You can do these test yourself very easily. All you have to do is get a couple of cartons of milk (preferably different makes, and different fat% milk). Then measure their pH over time. Probably once per day for the 2 or so weeks it takes the milk to spoil. Each time you measure the pH, write it down and then taste the milk to see if it has spoiled. Try to find a pH value below which you would say the milk is spoiled.

Don't worry, having a little spoiled milk will not hurt you. Especially if you spit it out. Then make sure to take a couple more readings a few days after you know the milk is spoiled (don't taste that stuff) and make sure that the trend of lowering pH is still there.

As for how to measure pH. You can use pH strips. It's important to find ones that have a good change in color in the range you need (6.4-6.8 for fresh milk and lower for spoiled). This might be a good option.

Ideally, then you would need to find a dispenser design that would allow for a pH strip to be subjected to the milk without leaking the dye back into the container. Have fun coming up with some ideas!

Good luck and make sure you talk to your science teacher or any scientists in your community to help you plan experiments. This will help you learn how good experiments are done and in turn make your project all that much better.

http://www.amazon.com/Dispenser-Hydrion-Papers-Strips-Testing/dp/B002ZYVU4O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426730546&sr=8-1&keywords=Hydrion

good?

Get something like this, just a roll of ph paper. It only takes a tiny bit and it'll last forever. For these purposes, its as accurate as you need and you don't need to maintain it like a ph meter.

Tap water or distilled. It will depend on where you start with the water among other things.

To be sure this.

Well pH is measuring acidity/basicity from 1-14 so I try to adjust it to 5.5 - 6.5 using this.

Rip a tiny piece of the pH paper and just barely dip a clean glass rod in the solution you're testing, then touch the glass rod to the paper then determine if you need to add a tiny amount of vinegar or baking soda

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064OFP88/

These fit on all the carboy's that I've bought.

You say that it has an acidic taste, but is it really acidic? Time to bust out your old chemistry set! You can get a set of litmus strips on Amazon for only 4 bucks which will tell you if it is actually acidic, or if you are just tasting some weird flavor aspects (like too much citrus).

If it is truly acidic you have a few options. You can blend it with a more alkaline mead, or you can add some calcium carbonate mix it up until fully dissolved (I siphon around 1/2 gallon of mead from a 6.5 gallon carboy, mix 1 tablespoon into that, and re-add that to the rest, then stir) and let it settle for a day, and test the PH again, rinse and repeat until you're at where you want to be, if it's really acidic, you can do 2 tablespoons.

I ordered it yesterday, but I won't have a way to test the pH...

Actually, I'll buy some strips to test this product is someone can point me in the direction of some that don't suck. I can't seem to find the ones that OP used though. Would these work?

I got some pH test strips from Amazon here they are, I tested some things last night and here are my results:

Tap water - 7-8 pH

GoW 5% mandelic acid serum - 3 pH

Stridex Red Box - 5 pH

I also tried to pH test my CeraVe cleanser, but I don't know how that works since it's a gel.

After doing a search on here, it looks like my pH readings are way off. Any ideas?

I bought mine off Amazon!

Raves:

Andalou Naturals Acai + White Tea Oil Free Moisturizer: It's lightweight, non-greasy, doesn't contain fatty alcohols (pore-clogging for some) and has great ingredients (antioxidants, anti-irritants & skin-repairing agents). I really like it.

New Purchases:

Devita Natural Skin Care Acne Solution Pads: I found these on iHerb. I was excited about the ingredients. Unfortunately, the pH is 5 according to my pH strips so it's NOT an effective BHA. I'll use these on my body and I will not repurchase.

GoW Salicylic Acid 2% Pads: I use these nightly to exfoliate. These are gentle (slight, transient tingle) and super moisturizing. The pH is 4 according to my pH strips so it's an effective BHA. I like them so far.

GoW Majik Anti-Popup Blemish Gel: I bought this because I'm curious about Azeloyl Glycine (a derivative of Azelaic Acid) and Niacinamide. I'm not sure about the coconut cream for my oily, acne-prone skin. I'll use it as a nightly spot treatment to deter blemishes.

GoW Enriched Oat Facial Serum: I bought this because my skin responds well to DIY oat flour masks when irritated. I'll use this to an an anti-inflammatory serum after MUAC chemical peels.

MUAC 25% Mandelic Acid Peel: I can't wait to try this to fade PIH from acne. It should be gentle and effective on my deep brown skin (Fitzpatrick V). I think it'll help acne as well. I'll use it weekly for the first two peels then use it every four days.

JJ Labs Skin Solutions Vitamin C Serum 25% with Hyaluronic Acid: I bought this from Etsy after seeing it on an Into the Gloss 'Top Shelf' post. It has a light gel-like texture, is non-greasy and moisturizing. The pH is 3 according to my pH strips so it's an effective vitamin C product. I'll use this this nightly.

I will make up a batch of StarSan and keep it for several weeks. I bought some inexpensive pH test strips from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IBOG7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00). I dip one into the solution, and as long as the pH is 3 or lower I'm good to go. Haven't had a problem with sanitation.

Bent tweezers work really really well. Unless you're trying to take apart already mounted switches, I find tweezers to be the best (something like the top one in the picture on this listing http://www.amazon.com/Non-magnetic-Curved-Tweezers-Forceps-Anti-static/dp/B00DVIEJ14/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1409881252&sr=1-2&keywords=tweezers).

I don't have those specific ones though, so I can't comment on the quality of those. Nice reviews though.

I bought my files, drill, tweezers and dykes off of Amazon and they all together set me back less then $50
each thing was 10-15
http://amzn.com/B00E8ER10G
http://amzn.com/B000OVHZ3U
http://amzn.com/B00DVIEJ14
http://amzn.com/B001N1AASC

second on the aptasia, get rid of them. If you don't want to purchase something just to eat them, or they don't get eaten, the hot water method of killing them worked great for me.

Boil some water, take an industrial syringe and suck up some of the water. Blast the aptasia with the water at close range, this should kill it, but will also losen it up a bit. Then reverse suction on the syringe and suck it right out of whatever little hole it's living in. Plenty of youtube videos on it, and a lot cheaper than buying special chemicals.

Mix http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CK32JXU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1459371669&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ejmix&dpPl=1&dpID=31s2734ti5L&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AU6Y6C2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459371760&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=small+beaker&dpPl=1&dpID=31-J48-oRpL&ref=plSrch beakers for mixing and measuring and cooking

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DXPRTHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459371820&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=blunt+tip+syringe&dpPl=1&dpID=21SzolFINTL&ref=plSrch syringe to transfer liquid and I use mine to stir the solution while it warms up

Right here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DXPRTHG

I love these things. Perfect for dosing. Could have used less than 10 but I'm glad I got them. I Velcro them to their respective bottles.

Any food grade alkali is fair game to substitute for any other if you can get the needed pH. Usually the recommended choice in a recipe is determined by either locally accessible ingredients or ease of measurement at the scale needed (I am talking through my hat there, but have reasons to believe I am correct, which I will explain).

As an additional hobby, I do a lot of tie dyeing. The reactive dyes are the most color fast for natural fibers , but require a specific pH (11) in which to work. For just over $5 you get 100 pH test strips. For a Catholic homeschool meeting 20-ish years ago, I wanted to make pretzels with the kids as a demonstration of a traditional Lenten food. I was a bit scared about kids and lye, so I started looking at the pH needed to get pretzel browning, because I wanted them to participate at every step of the making. I checked the ph of baking soda solutions and lye solutions with my hand dandy on hand litmus test strips and was not liking it, so researched and stumbled across a way of reducing baking soda by baking that gets you a lot closer to the ideal pH of 13 that lye yields.

An insight was born. I do not use my pH strips as often as my thermapen, but because I have them, I have learned to measure pH for good results whenever browning is an issue. There are a lot more factors that influence the result, but the pH value is the most important in making substitutions. The solution temperature and length of the dunk are the next most important - and there are lots of papers out there explaining the science, but I am still at a level that process feel and product happiness determine temp and time.

The ph of tap water depends on where you live.. but I know my whole state more or less has safe water in the taps. You can a get pack of like 100 test strips from amazon for like $5. Just make sure the PH is 7 or above.

you need to get a ph meter: https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=lp_393271011_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1511300438&sr=1-3 will suffice.

I would recommend a water/nutrient pH of 6.4 for promix as it is a peat based media that is acidic. Meaning your pH should be about 6.2, but if you add 6.2 and hits the acidic peat, it will not be that anymore. Some people argue lower pH for soiless, but let me assure you that at 6.4 in results in a 5.6ish out. I personally think you are safe with a pH 5.4-6.2 out. What I mean by out is run-off, you need to feed enough liquid so that ~20% just drains through. Placing the pot in a pail during feeding/watering helps. This will drain extra salts.

Also, you should add perlite (1/3 volume) with promix as it can cause drainage problems and water retention if you don't. Think about that before you transplant. You may need to also add dolomite lime in the future. Read up on that please, just thinking ahead for you, and letting you avoid mistakes I had made. It doesn't take a lot, but helps to stabilize your pH and provides cal/mag.

>Not sure what EC means

It means Electroconductivity and refers to the salinity of your water.
Do you know how hard your water is? If its too hard, you need to dilute it with RO water. Some people just use RO water only, but supplement it with CalMag solution. If you don't know what's in your tap water, call the water department and ask them. They most probably posted your water analysis online.

Yur just lucky I'm feeling nice ;)

EDIT: And ffs quit giving them miracle grow!

I got one from Jellas and I'm very happy with it, which I'll link at the end of this reply. It's been quite accurate for my purposes. I occasionally put it in distilled water to make sure it's not falling out of calibration and so far it hasn't drifted, but if it does it has a screw to adjust it back. The batteries are easy to replace, and it's easy to slide it in past the pellicle and get a quick measurement. I'm actually on my second unit because I accidentally broke the bulb on the first one while drying it. Definitely let it air dry. I always rinse it right before and right after using it. It's a great way to make sure you're brewing a consistent product, since you will know exactly when your first and second fermentations are finished. Remember that pH is logarithmic so the rate of change will not be linear, and the difference in acidity between 4.0 and 3.0 is not 25%, it's 1,000%. I start the second fermentation at 3.4-3.6 and finish around 3.1-3.2.

Jellas Pocket Size PH Meter / PH Tester / Mini Water Quality Tester for Household Drinking Water, Hydroponics, Aquariums, Swimming Pools, PH 0-14.0 Me https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_hkOrr63kSbWzQ

Sorry for the slow response.

That is good your budget is flexible and you want to do it right from the start.

I think the tent is a good choice, and you have lots of vertical height which is great. Are you in a grow friendly state? The reason I ask is they might have some sales at local hydroponic and gardening stores that you might consider. Your plant will have at least a foot above it for clearance from the light and a foot below where you've got your pot. So your actual plant will probably just be around 4 feet tall.

I know a lot of people in america use fox farms soil and the fox farms nutrient line up. Seems to be successful. I am going a slightly more organic method using General Organics nutrients and pro mix with some compost as my soil. The fox farms soil has starting food in it while the pro mix is inert, which means full control of the food for the grower but less of a safety net for the plant if you mess it up.


There is a lot of options when it comes to food, each company has a ton of products. To get you going though I would just use the vegatative food and the flowering food. And some calmag. Everything else is just optional and you can always use next time.

Once you've got your medium and food sorted, you'll want to be able to check your ph levels.


Also grab some of the bottles of ph up and down so you can adjust it accordingly before you feed your ladies.

You'll need a tent to fit your space, I would browse amazon for deals and base your decision on their reviews!

As for what pots to use, I started using fabric pots and they are great. They allow for less over watering because the medium can breathe more easily. You'll want to start in 4 inch pots, then maybe to a gallon, then 3 gallons, perhaps all the way to 5 if you want. Kinda depends on how many plants you decide to keep? I grow small numbers and big plants.

After that you've just got to decide on lighting and ventilation. I don't know a lot about LEDs except that it cuts down on electricity and heat. Some people invest in american companies but they can be quite expensive. A popular method is just ordering cheap LED fixtures from china and not worrying too much if they break because they are so cheap.

/u/Legal_In_OR might stop by here to give some LED advice. He uses top of the line LEDS but I am wondering if he has insight on some of the cheaper options to get you going.




We also have lots of useful information on our website. http://www.herbgrow.co/


Feel free to ask more questions.

ph meter from amazon

I have this one and it works well! 16 bucks too so I recommend this if you are looking to purchase one!

Cheap ph meter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501379477&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ph+meter&psc=1
If you live in a legal state, just buy a used digital Mh/hps system preferably 1000w.

Use advanced nutrients
http://www.advancednutrients.com/nutrient-calculator/

I like how you asked for cheaper than $30 and people respond with $200 probes lmao.

I got these two off Amazon cheap, like $15 each.

I've tested them in r/o water and they seem to be accurate, the tds measures up with my water report from the city on my tap water and reads r/o at 0.

I haven't had any issues with my plants as far as ph or PPM.

Here are the ones I got.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483110799&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ph+meter+for+water&dpPl=1&dpID=41w2JXOokIL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EWZBB3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483110821&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tds+water+testing+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=51JKkIc76NL&ref=plSrch

I had a similar problem, I ended up just grabbing some of these.

A coffee straw would've been cheaper... but the syringes are handy to measure with from time to time.

Noodler's Ahab. You can use any sort of eyedropper-like tool, but I prefer a blunt-tip syringe, such as this one.

It's this syringe. I think the problem may be the needle-like tip so I'll check out the baby syringe.

Glad you asked! One thing we have to remember about Prime is that it does not remove the ammonia, it just renders it harmless. So the result is a "false positive" on standard ammonia tests. It will still be there but it is no longer harming your fish.

If you would like peace-of-mind you can get a Free vs Total Ammonia test kit. This kit allows you to measure the amounts of Free (harmful) ammonia vs. the Total (harmless once Prime is involved).

Even if you aren't going to get some, read the description on Amazon. It is really helpful in understanding Ammonia chemistry.

For measuring ANYTHING for your aquarium, go to your local drugstore pharmacy (Even Walmart pharmacies will do this) and ask them for free syringes. They are absolutely AWESOME for measuring anything that takes very small measurements such as Prime. If for whatever reason you can't get some for free from a drug store, order a set like this. I use the 1ml and 5ml syringes every single day.

Edit: I suck at spelling....

2% is NOT high thc....it’s extremely low! I’d also recommend to use a heavy indica strain given what you’ve reported since you’re looking for more calming effects vs. high energy. Your specific condition could be the cause of how you’re not feeling any effects, so it’s probably best to significantly bump up your intake.

Buy distillate syringes ($65 at Surterra) and just make infused coconut oil. Distillate is up to 90% thc and will go a long way....Plus you can truly control your dosages by concentrating them as much as you’d like.

All you have to do is heat up unrefined coconut oil in a Pyrex container, put the distillate into the hot oil and start stirring for a few minutes. Once it emulsifies it’s ready to use. The distillate is very thick, so put the syringe into hot water for a minute So that it becomes less viscous and then remove the cap to dispense it.

Example - let’s say there’s 850mg of thc in one distillate syringe and you use 50ml of coconut oil.

850/50 = 17mg of thc per ml of oil. You aren’t just limited to using one distillate syringe - feel free to use more to make your infused oil more potent.

Buy a blunt tip luer lock syringe with ml measurements and then simply put it into your own empty capsules. You can buy the syringe and the capsules on amazon for very cheap. You can also use these blunt tip syringes to measure your coconut oil to ensure he dosages will be right. Links to the items you need below

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Liquids-cigs-juice/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=blunt+tip+syringe&qid=1554677628&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Gel-Capsules-250-Empty/dp/B00E40DJ82/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=3VTB07WR7494G&keywords=capsules+00&qid=1554677715&s=gateway&sprefix=capsules&sr=8-7

You can also dispense the distillate straight into your own cartridges and vape it, but be sure to use only a ceramic cartridge. Do not include any coconut oil into your vape...just distillate

Well, tyvek won't really help much - heck just painter's plastic as a vapor barrier from the outside and then some pink stuff (I use recycled denim, it also helps dampen sound) would work just fine. Other people use the rigid foam - check out some of /u/gilliganphantom's posts - he used spray foam.

Insulation can help a lot with condensation, but remember that airflow!

In the meantime, buy buckets of desiccant. https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Indicating-Desiccants-Dehumidifier-Air-Tight/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=desicant&qid=1550686565&s=gateway&sr=8-8 Hopefully this won't get spam filtered.

I can't tell what's actually in the product, so maybe. You can get generic silica gel desiccant which will do the trick. You will have to recharge the beads every so often. Others on here will tell you that you should actively dehydrate your PVA using a food dehydrator, for example, or your oven if the temp goes low enough. Then you can store the PVA using silica gel to keep any moisture away. If you are good about keeping the silica gel dry then I think it will pull some moisture out of the PVA with enough time. I specifically use this and I 3D printed some containers to hold it in inside a gasket-lined plastic box.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DBPY6F/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5NTCWW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

solved my problems.

I live in south Louisiana where humidity is like that friend who doesn't know when it's time to leave. My box stays at 10% humidity now. Also, /u/arudinne linked the same weather sealed boxes I use for filament when it's being stored. Use the leftover silica in the weatherbox. That container is running at 10-11 humidity also.


You can also make a weatherseal box a dry box and directly print from it, which is something I might consider after getting an mmu2 if I can't find a good off the shelf solution.

Color indicating silica. I dumped a 5 pound bucket into my dry box: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5NTCWW/

Blunt Tip Syringe

https://www.amazon.com/Bstean-Syringe-Blunt-Tip-Needle/dp/B01HFTYINS

Well, since I've never tried it, I'm not sure - you can find smaller blunt tips - here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS?psc=1

Look around a little - there's a ton of this kind of stuff.

I have this set: Bstean Syringe with Blunt Tip Needle and Cap - 10ml, 5ml, 3ml, 1ml Syringes and 14ga 16ga 18ga 20ga Blunt Needles - Great for Oil or Glue Applicator (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=cm_sw_r_api_9nZhAbF628E32

Look on Amazon they sell them their for decent prices.

Here are the ones I picked up and they have worked great.

(Bstean Syringe Blunt Tip Needle and Cap)[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uNE3CbDYR36ZN]

I hope I edited the link correctly.

Hey dude! I purchased a starter kit when I started making E-juice, and while it was helpful I quickly realized that I could of gotten more for less had I known what I needed. It is a lot cheaper to just buy the products individually since you will also be getting a larger amount too. Here are some links and in my opinion this is the cheapest way for someone to start DIY:


VG- https://www.amazon.com/Glycerin-Vegetable-Kosher-USP-Quart/dp/B004C7MTLA/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546689&sr=8-2&keywords=vegetable+glycerine


PG- https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Depot-Propylene-Glycol-Quart/dp/B005F5OJG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546865&sr=8-3&keywords=propylene+glycol


Gloves- https://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Glove-Industrial-Disposable-Thickness/dp/B01MZZ0FHO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546913&sr=8-2&keywords=nitrile+gloves


Syringes- https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Refilling-E-Liquids-Applicator/dp/B01HFTYINS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480546884&sr=8-6&keywords=blunt+tip+syringe


Nicotine- https://www.nudenicotine.com/products-page/unflavored-nicotine-base/

And as for bottles it is all up to you I personally buy mine from http://wholesale.heartlandvapes.com/eliquid-bottles/plastic-eliquid-bottles.html

*Lastly all you need is flavorings, I think it would be best for you to search around and find what you like, I personally prefer http://gremlindiy.com/ and http://www.bullcityflavors.com/ . Hope this helped!

Here's one option - the metal tips are a lot more precise than what you find at Hobby Lobby and other craft stores (the plastic tips don't get small enough)

https://www.amazon.com/Purpose-Precision-Applicator-Assortment-Henna/dp/B01IPOJSF0

Oh, this looks even better:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS

I bought these and they work pretty well for injecting dielectric grease into the hole in the stab that the wire goes in

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HFTYINS?psc=1

A lot of people are going to get all "definitely not you dumb shit" on this but you are pretty OK.

While I would caution against the abuse that is the dishwasher, if you pull off all your keys you can just spray/wipe/wash the whole keyboard clean gently. Dry it all you can by hand and then put it in container with one of these bad boys, I mean the whole pack of 50, and wait a good 5 days for it to dry out.

The radiator isn't a good idea, you don't want to steam out the moisture. If moisture gets into small areas then gets heated up it risks building up pressure and cracking things. Stick to just dry air.

Source: My K60, my Strafe RGB, my K55 at work and my friends K95.

Disclaimer: I am not Corsair. I don't speak for them. This is definitely outside of warranty. THIS should be the nuclear option, dishwasher is just... please don't ever again.

If it's personal use only I strongly recommend investing in a vacuum sealer (this is the one I got and it's amazing, it also works with other vacuum bags, I like the foodsaver ones) and desiccant packs (also the ones I got)

This will preserve the potency and freshness of your dried shrooms for a really, really friggin long time

Yep - that’ll do the trick! I added desiccant packets https://amzn.to/33ZJGEP and 3m anti-tarnish tabs https://amzn.to/2JmYndd

You can't replace LP lights with anything but OEM LP lights. The leveling motors would be missing and the harness would be completely different. Helix lights are made to use with the non LP GTIs.

Check out this thread: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14422

I keep these on hand, and tape some to the inside of my housing cap if I ever notice any condensation: https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2RR5362S5UEV8&keywords=silica+packets&qid=1562783428&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+c+to+displa%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-4

edit: call AutoHaas and see what they have. They're a VW/Audi recycler and have a ton of parts for sale.
888-897-2781

https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3TV0LA88HKTL&keywords=silica+packets+for+moisture&qid=1559067138&s=gateway&sprefix=silica%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-4

Silica gel. Will help with moisture and condensation from temp change. I was on the road in Louisiana with a semi hollow and the thing would drip with moisture after being in airconditioning. It really helped. If you aren't going to take it out this will keep condensation from happening because the air inside the case will be drier and less moisture to condense onto guitar. If you don't want to buy that then pantyhose full of uncooked rice is a similar solution. Some saran wrap to seal the case after that wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Link:

get these, fill one with water and squirt it in a spoon with your drugs. give it a minute to dissolve and apply a little heat if you need to, then let it cool for a sec and suck it into the syringe. now you can snort this directly out of the syringe or use it to boof.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N01TO2O/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01N01TO2O&pd_rd_wg=nva8v&pd_rd_r=7X6S1CWMT27FD4HS0R54&pd_rd_w=id59C

Super important to note that guinea pigs can’t produce vitamin C and need supplements. You can also get liquid vitimin C and small syringes from a vets office or online to give them daily. Mine think it’s a treat!

Examples:

Vitimin C: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00016RLSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_XgPPDb6004AC1

Syringes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N01TO2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ziPPDb57CGQPG

The syringes can be rinsed out with water and reused!

I prefer citadel over all. I use the citadel Colour app to help with the color choice and how to apply. I do use Vallejo when I need an air brush version of a color that Citadel doesn’t have or for priming.

I understand the stance you have on the pricing with citadel, but you can make that line of paint last longer.

Head to amazon and order these items
15ml dropper bottles
1ml needless syringe
flow aid
small stainless steel ball baring

By following the steps in this video on YouTube I was able to transfer all my base and layer paints to dropper bottles. Now I can limit how much paint I’m wasting to a minimum. Because like you said, they can be expensive

Sure.

Agrimectin Ivermectin Injection 50 ml 1 percent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FVUH6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dy9nDb6JE22EB

You use a very tiny tiny amount. Like literally a couple drops behind each ear, fold the ear over and rub it in.

Google correct dosing. You're going to want an EXACT weight in grams of your pig. Triple check your math before dosing.

I also bought these syringes:

BSTEAN 1ml Syringe with 18Ga 1.5 Inch Blunt Needle and Plastic Needle with Matching Cap (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBSWJ5R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ty9nDb24V2BHC

They have dull tips so you can stab into the bottle and get the correct dosage but also use that same syringe to dose your pig as the end of the needle is completely dull and won't hurt them unless you forcibly scrape with them it - but there's no reason to do that. Just be careful.

OP, I wonder if you've ever been tested for being a supertaster. A small percentage of humans are born with denser quantities of tastebuds on their tongue, and as a result are a lot more sensitive to taste (especially bitter tastes) than the rest of us. You can test yourself by buying these strips. They only cost $6. And if you put them on your tongue and they immediately taste bitter and disgusting - congrats, you're a super taster!

Super tasters are more likely to be extremely picky eaters and seek out bland tasting foods. They usually are extremely anti-vegetables and anti-spicy foods. They also have aversions to things like red wine and scotch because they taste highly astringent to them. Versus me, who is actually a 'non-taster' (someone with very few taste buds that cannot taste the bitter chemical on those strips) who drinks my weight in scotch and seeks out the spiciest stuff imaginable just to get a taste of something. :)

Anyhow, onto Japanese food recommendations. I think the other posters have done a good job recommending tempura and teppenyaki.

I would also recommend shabu shabu to you. It's just nice beef cooked in a broth. Yakitori is another great thing to try: just meat on skewers. And Yakiniku is beef that you cook on your own barbecue. You can usually get wagyu and it's a fun thing to try.

One last one to consider that might be a stretch for you is okonomiyaki. It's essentially a Japanese pancake with an egg-base that may have some meat in it. You can probably request it without the sauce. The only trouble is that they often have cabbage in them, so you'd have to decide whether you were up to that or not. :)

Other than that, you'll have access everywhere to Starbucks, KFC, and convenience stores - so you're not going to starve. Go to some of the fancy department stores and wander their basements. Many of them have vast food markets in the basements with every type of food and confection imaginable. You can try lots of small things and just toss them if you don't like them. :)

Do you like the taste of:

• coffee without a lot of sugar and milk/cream?
  
• grapefruit?
  
• olives?
  
• ale beer
  
• broccoli?
  
• stout beer?
  
  ...Because you might be a supertaster.
  
  
  There are test strips (called PTC paper) that can be placed on your tongue to determine whether you're a supertaster. To some people, the strips have no taste no matter how long they leave them on their tongues. Those people have fewer taste buds and are not supertasters. To other people, the strips are bitter or extremely bitter and repulsive. Those people are near supertasters and supertasters.
  
  
  It's also possible to determine if one is a supertaster by putting blue food-coloring on your tongue and looking closely to count the taste buds per a given area.
  
  Here are some websites that explain (PDF) how to do that.
  
  
  And here is a chart from a Wall Street Journal article called "People Who Taste Too Much" that shows how supertasters taste some foods differently than others. The full article is behind a paywall.
  
  Certain ethnicities are more likely to be supertasters, such as Asian ones. Being a supertaster is genetic, so it's likely that one of your parents or grandparents is a supertaster if you are.
  
  Of the foods I listed above, all would taste bitter to a supertaster, but a stout beer would taste better than an ale beer because ale beers are more bitter.
  
  Being a supertaster is often confused with just being a picky eater (with no reason). Being a supertaster does not rule out a psychological component to food preference, it can show a very clear reason for many of your food choices.

I found these on amazon. It's not the kit we used but the same strips.

Even if I were agreeable with the concept, I'd just leave my razor on a $5 silica gel canister...

You might also want to get a dessicant (like http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025OO8DO/ ) so excess humidity doesn't build up inside of it, especially if you also decide to store paper documents.

Get some dessicant. Put the entire turntable inside a large bag with the dessicant, and then double bag it. Leave it for a couple of days. This should pull out any remaining moisure, although it may not fix your left channel problem. This would be a good first step though.

My Dad used this method to fix my wet Pac Man watch in the early 80s. I thought he was a wizard.

ETA: The sooner you can do this, the better. If you have a store near you that sells shooting supplies, they should sell this and you can pick it up right away.

These may also come in handy:

http://amzn.com/B0025OO8DO

> https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Essential-Laboratories-Testing-Range-Environment/dp/B002ZYVU4O

Do you think something this accurate for use on a plant that is not having issues? I have the same brand of strips that covers the entire spectrum, so obviously less accurate. I usually get the PH around 6, airing on the side of 6.5 if possible. Should I be going for something more accurate?

If your soil is peat or wood based and you have no liming in there then pH or Ca/Mg deficiency may be an issue. I use these pH test strips to get an idea of my soil pH.

These are the strips SAG recommended that I use.

I never did like the drops and the vial, but I LOVE the pH strips.

I bought a few gallons of purified water early on, but now I just fill them with just tap water or tap water with the FF Trio Nutrients .

I use the strips to test the water each time, and then use the pH Up or pH Down when needed.

I use something similar to http://www.amazon.com/Dispenser-Hydrion-Papers-Strips-Testing/dp/B002ZYVU4O . I use ones on a little wider PH scale and they work great.

edit: the nice thing is you only need a tiny strip making the test strip roll last a LONG time.

Looks like pH issue. pH testing solutions aren't too accurate for the range we need. I recommend getting these which is what I use and they work very well. Meters are okay too, but they're delicate and a lot of people end up breaking them when they try to clean it. If you get a meter, I'd still get those strips as a back-up.

That said, 6 is right around the minimum. 6.2 - 6.5 is where I like to be.

Easiest way is just to get some pH paper, just dip it in and match color on the package.

https://smile.amazon.com/Hydrion-paper-93-Dispenser-Color/dp/B005FYGXUC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pH+paper&qid=1568937558&sr=8-3

I switched out the regular growler tops for these

38mm Poly Seal Screw Caps (fits most 1/2 & 1 gallon jugs) [Bag of 12] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064OFP88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dnBDyb93PHGC3

Work awesome and fit any 64 oz growler I've tried them on.

I am as well, Old Gt Bottles with a cap like this(cheaper at your local homebrew store) Have been working. however I use(and recommend because one growler takes up less space then 3 or so gt bottles) a Big growler with this cap for 2F and then strain into gt bottles that go straight to the fridge.

Like these?
https://www.amazon.com/38mm-Poly-Seal-Screw-gallon/dp/B0064OFP88/ref=asc_df_B0064OFP88/

Mason jars are made to withstand vacuum, not internal pressure. so you're more likely to have an explosion with those than a bottle made to have internal pressure. The Grolsh style beer bottles work great. I also like using 1/2 gallon growlers (get the ploy caps).

Yeast dies at what? 140° - 145°F? I can make a sous vide water bath with a circulator at about 150°F+ to pasteurize in for about an hour. The type of caps I have for my 1 Gallon Carboys are 38mm Poly Seal Screw Caps. No idea if they would be strong enough for the pressure though.

These are the ones I originally found but i live in Canada and didnt want to deal with cross border shipping on a little mom an pop shop, so I found basically the same thing on amazon

You can get replacement tops for the GT bottles. They are not too expensive at Amazon.

On the topic of pH, I've had a few burning questions for a while. Wasn't sure to make a new post on this or stick it here.

1. If I buy this $3 pack of 160 pH strips, is it reliable or should I aim for a more expensive one, like a $12 version? And I recall, back in grade school when we were testing for pH level, we used a few pH strips and took the average of them?
   
   
2. How to test the pH of products of different consistency? A watery toner seems straigtforward, but others less so.
   
   

• Foaming cleanser - may be a repeat of ChanYong's question up there.
  
• Toner
  
• Emulsion/Milk
  
• Cream/Gel

I don't grow outside but I don't think you need to add more nutes to your soil. Not if you are using a quality soil like Ocean Forest.

Honestly, it looks like splash burn to me.

http://www.thctalk.com/cannabis-forum/showthread.php?105935-Nute-burn

But I would check your run off water pH. With soil, you could probably get away with those little paper tester strips they use for pools. Super cheap and available at any pool supply or hardware shop.

https://www.amazon.com/Packs-Paper-Litmus-Strips-Tester/dp/B008IBOG7G

It sounds like the cleanser just didn't agree with you, you can certainly stop using it. In the future, it's best to patch test new products in one area to determine if they won't break you out and you aren't sensitive or allergic to something in it.

If you're worried about the pH of your handmade soap, pH test strips are super cheap, easy, and frankly fun to play with. You can find out if you even need to worry about your cleanser before trying to find a new one you like!

These PH Test strips would do the job just fine. Shave soap should have a PH between 7 and 10. Outside that range may sting you face.

Tomatoes should be ok for the water-bath, you can do a litmus test to make sure.

You can also reuse Star San. Get some litmus strips and test.

> It's an acidic cleaner. Once the pH rises above 3, it should be replaced. Color or cloudiness is not an appropriate indicator of potency. (per Five Star Chemicals - makers of StarSan)

Edit: cheap from Amazon here.

They're available on Amazon, and you can get two-day shipping. A dedicated paint store might be more likely to have test kits than a general hardware store.

Yeah and if you're worried about lead, there's cheap lead test kits on Amazon - https://www.amazon.ca/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501697871&sr=8-1&keywords=lead+test

These sticks work well for a simple yes, no on lead :
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cMHQCb54ED1AQ

Not sure if there is an equivalent for cadmium though.

Unfortunately your only option is to get a rail from a used Joy-Con. Replacement rails aren't even available in the Chinese market yet as I'm told.

Though that bent pin looks fixable. As long as you can straighten it and then pull it outward to match the other pins, it should make contact at least a little bit. I'd use precision tweezers for that.

This is my obligatory post telling you try out tweezers:

http://www.amazon.com/Non-magnetic-Curved-Tweezers-Forceps-Anti-static/dp/B00DVIEJ14/

My producitivity almost trippled on making beadsprites, and my accuracy went way up, once I got precision tweezers. Well worth the $4 price tag.

Your sprites looks great by the way!

I got these: tweezer set

I wanted non magnetic as it's a pain to pull any magnetic debris out of a motors magnets otherwise :)

Well... the last time that I bought cheap black Chinese ESD-safe tweezers, I received a large smelly white Chinese bathroom rug so YMMV.

Superglue doesn't work very well. Loctite 404 is the best I've found of the cyanoacrylates, but it tops out at "okay," unless you're willing to put in a lot of surface prep.

ABS glue works great, though it can be a pain to use. You want to make your own: get some acetone and some ABS. Undyed pellets are best, like this: https://www.amazon.com/IC3D-Printer-Plastic-Pellets-Natural/dp/B00MG5PF5M/ , though you should be able to find cheaper. Put some pellets in a small jar, and add acetone. You're probably looking to end up around 2 parts acetone to 1 part pellets by volume, but you can adjust it pretty far either way. Mix them together through a combination of stirring and shaking. This will take a while, and you'll probably need to let them soak periodically. They won't dissolve all the way without mixing, and they wont mix without soaking, so it's just going to take a while. Eventually though, you'll have a good that you can brush or squirt onto PLA to make it stick together. I mostly use mine with an industrial syringe, with a pin in the needle to keep a channel open. It's easy to dispense, and fairly convenient. For large applications or for painting onto a bed, I use acid brushes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEUC8SK/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DXPRTHG/

You can also weld pieces together with a dremel. This is a very good join for large pieces, especially with straight seams, but can be rough for detail work. There's a description here: http://www.scorchworks.com/Blog/friction-welding-with-a-dremel-rotary-tool/

look on amazon, between the item description and the "questions ask/answered" section regarding the product, i have seen some where this information is provided. 0.1ml is the amount delivered from one i saw i believe.

-

I recommend this one... it's 30ml but EASILY fits into your pocket.

-

the glass one here is much better then the plastic one from the same company, and i'm relatively sure it delivers 0.1ml per squirt

-

To make sure, simply fill it with an amount of water measured using an oral syringe (available for free at almost all pharmacys, just ask the pharmacist, say that your little brother got some medicine that requires one for measurement and needs it... though i prefer ones with a long blunt tip, available on amazon as well [here's the 10ml ones i often use and love] (https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk010-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=nav_ya_signin?ie=UTF8&qid=1467798872&sr=8-2&keywords=10+ml+blunt+tip+syringe&)

-

and [here's some 1ml ones] (https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk001-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00NDETMR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467798956&sr=8-1&keywords=1ml+blunt+tip+syringe) that i got but haven't tried yet, they reviewed well though

I bought Duda Energy Syringepk010 Industrial Syringes with 15G x 1-1/2" Blunt Tip Fill Needle and Plastic Cover, 10 mL (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SyBEzbN1K6M1M off amazon for 15$.
Might be able to find cheaper for a single. But I wanted some extras.

I'll hook up bro!
Use ecig express to order Flavor Concentrates and bottles
— Use ELRECIPIES for 10% discount

Use The Flavor Apprentice/The Perfume Apprentice for Flavor concentrates
— Be sure that they are made for ecigs
— Better than ecig for bulk orders

Buy vegetable glycerin, and syringes from amazon
— Buy a gallon for bulk
— Buy 10ml, and 1ml syringes
— Buy Tupperware or something to contain 16 oz of liquid to steep ejuice

Buy nicotine from Nude Nicotine
—Purchase “Smooth” Nicotine salts



https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk001-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00NDETMR2/ref=pd_lutyp_bia_3_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NDETMR2&pd_rd_r=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC&pd_rd_w=NhTrE&pd_rd_wg=Rt1HG&pf_rd_i=desktop-typ-carousels&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2798022962&pf_rd_r=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC&pf_rd_s=desktop-typ-carousels&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=S32X53GMX38H2DP662TC

https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-Syringepk010-Industrial-Syringes/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=pd_sim_328_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DXPRTHG&pd_rd_r=G7GP5J47E1CRQPHET2VD&pd_rd_w=yULCb&pd_rd_wg=yRWOy&psc=1&refRID=G7GP5J47E1CRQPHET2VD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PSGWHIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.ecigexpress.com

http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com

https://www.nudenicotine.com/product/nicotine-salts-smooth/

I got these just the other day. I diddn't need ten but you get them for less than a dollar a piece. I dont have a saltwater tank so im not sure what you are looking for, I use these for measuring and dosing fertilizers

yep


I also use one for water testing so I can suck exactly 5ml of water out of a tank for the lil test tube without contaminating the sample by sticking my hands in there.

Sounds good, per your persuasion, I've decided to get some Krytox 205/105(or104) and mix 60/40.

I plan to just mix them in a small vial and I guess I can use any syringe like this and use it to apply to my switches?

Ha, right? I always feel awkward ordering syringes/needles, but in reality the gauge you need to pull oil is far to large to easily fit under skin...but try explaining that one without a side look. I buy type 2 fill needles (http://www.amazon.com/Industrial-Syringes-Blunt-Needle-plastic/dp/B00DXPRTHG/ref=pd_sim_0_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=21SzolFINTL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1W5Y0DNPKFJYV3SEHG0Z)

I got then on amazon for about $10. Here is the link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DXPRTHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1421263500&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I use aiptasia-x and they work for me.

Thanks for the cool tek! That sounds like its a worth a shot.

I have some of these syringes on their way to my house. :)

Regarding pH testing...

I'd like to test a bunch of my stuff, but the Cleanser pH guide recommends a multicolored pH tester. The single color testers are much cheaper such as here.

Is it bad if I choose this one? If I choose it, should I not share my results on the list?

No problem.

You might look into getting a book of universal indicator strips like these to test products. You dip the paper into the product and compare the color to the color-pH legend. This gives you a ballpark pH that is good enough for this application. For ex it wont give you a pH of 5.5 but you will be able to tell it's between 5 and 6.

When you mix something with water, it can change the pH by a lot so I test the cleanser while it's on my face and lathered with water rather than straight out of the container. Tap water pH also varies a lot, which in turn affects the pH of your product if it gets mixed with tap water.

I think all hair experimenters especially no pooers should own some pH test strips. Since we're not using a product that has been regulated and safety checked (even minimally) we should be able to check at least one factor (pH). pH test strips can be bought and many big box stores as they are necessary for pool maintenance. I bought mine on Amazon.

200 test strips, great ratings, under $6: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Sz1ZCb97EPPCK

I keep some in a spray bottle and had mine last months. I check it with these. Never had a prob.

Litmus pH Test Strips, Universal Application (pH 1-14), 2 Packs of 100 Strips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_DPgAwb07HPNZW

It bares mention I always over mix as well. When kegging, I'll use about enough for 2.5 gal in 1.5. Better to be safe than frugal.

I am not a specialist, since I just begin in the AB community, but dry people lack oil and its genetic, and dehydrated people lack water.

Be sure to drink enough water each day (8 glasses at least) but for your ph concern, you can maybe just check on google of people looked for the ph of their product. Or, if you wanted a product anyway, you can buy some strips especially for that on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Litmus-Strips-Universal-Application-Packs/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479873268&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+strips

I saw there's also a digital ph tester.

Don't bother with strips. They usually don't have the range/precision you need. You can buy a digital meter for really cheap on Amazon if you really want one.

People talk down about these all the time but mine has stayed calibrated and functional since christmas. The secret apparently is storing it how you use it vertically

Jellas Pocket Size PH Meter / PH Tester / Mini Water Quality Tester for Household Drinking Water, Hydroponics, Aquariums, Swimming Pools, PH 0-14.0 Measuring Range, 0.1PH Resolution (Yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6B6.ybMED6HWD

You could always get this as well

General Hydroponics GH1514 General Hydroponics Ph Control Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tD6.yb5VT9XYB

I used this one last season. No problems with it. Cheap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

​

​

Not sure you can calibrate w/o the solutions.

I use this. Mine came factory calibrated. Double-checked with their provided calibration solutions. Their customer support was very helpful since the calibration solutions do not come with instructions:
https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/

How much should I be spending on a PH pen are these cheap $20 Ones any good? [Like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496521064&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+pen)

Also should the PH Be at 5.8 In the runoff, or what I feed the plant

I hope I'm not too late! I'm looking at getting a ph meter to add another element to my brewing.

Does anyone have [this meter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bgV4ybF47N2CA)? I'm not really finding anything about the temps. it works at.

I ordered and have been using this Jellas pocket sized pH meter.

By pH down solution, do you mean something like this.

This is the one I am using. Its worked perfectly right out of the box so no complaints here. I hadn't thought of that but I'm going to go do it right now, thanks for the suggestion!

These are the models I went with, they've been working flawlessly so far:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBUH4RC
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VK4YY0

Definitely worth every penny, even if they do end up breaking sooner.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481968489&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ph+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=41w2JXOokIL&ref=plSrch
So something like that would work to test dirty runoff as well? Thanks

Like you, I needed a pen but didn't want to pay a cnote for one. I'm already using drops because I feel it's more accurate, but wanted a pen to compare to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_lp_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H7N0T6GZ8T1Q6HVCB7SJ

I went with Amazon because if it craps out or doesn't work properly, I have like 3 months to return it. I mean, theoretically you could do this with the bluelab one and return it before their window runs out, but that feels scummy. I figure if nothing else, I'm only out like 13 bucks.

Depends on where you live. I buy mine on Amazon.

You need to buy something with a cap.

Don't use the metal needle to suck up the distillate, it is too thick and won't work. Just use the open tip and clean it off when done.

https://www.kushbottles.com/packaging-concentrate-syringes

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Cartridges-Liquids-cigs-juice/dp/B0161V0024

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZB3X8S/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1

Jenny WTF!?! BLUNTS! You want blunts! And by that I mean these blunts This way you won't stab yourself, accidentally tattoo yourself, and it's probably not going to take as long to get through customs if you can't find the equivalent on canada's amazon.

Try a blunt-tipped syringe

Helpful info on the best water to use.
I use cold tap water. I also filter through a micron filter into 10ml amber glass resealable vials. I make my own bacteriostatic water by doing cold tap water with .09% benzyl alcohol. This ends up being 9.1ml of water and .09ml of benzyl alcohol. The benzyl alcohol I get comes in a 50ml resealable sterile bottle.

Here's a link to the 27 gauge 1.25" 3cc sterile needles I get. It comes as one unit with the needle already attached to the syringe. I get my vials, benzyl alcohol, needles, and alcohol wipes from medlabsupply. They have way cheaper pricing and everything you need is on there. Just make sure to get everything you need all at once to avoid paying too much for shipping. I use these 10ml syringes for making the actual solution. You can reuse these as long as you use a fresh micron filter as it will filter any potential bacteria.

You should really research how to do IM injections to avoid getting any abscesses/infections as you can lose a limb. IM is much less forgiving than IV as it's very easy for bacteria to spread in muscle tissue so infection needs to be taken much more seriously. You should be using a fresh needle every time, using alcohol wipes to wipe the top of your bottle of solution if you're using a premade solution, and wiping your injection site before you shoot it every single time.

I'd suggest making solutions since using a micron filter is much safer than a cotton ball. It makes it easier since you can just filter your entire solution at once and use only a single wheel/micron filter for one or two solutions (assuming your doing 10ml solutions). Then your whole vial is filtered and sterile and you don't have to worry about it until you go through the whole vial (1 gram of k per 10ml vial).

As far as injection sites the thigh is definitely the easiest and most forgiving. I'd say glutes are second. I just alternate between each thigh muscle personally. If I did it more often I'd do each thigh muscle and then one or both glutes (choose the one on the same side as your dominant hand if just doing one).

Here's a link that shows your how to find the site properly. Here's another one showing injection sites, how to find them, and how to do IM injections safely. This one is a good video for finding the injection for glutes and where your sciatic nerve is. Even after you know how to find the sites you should still look up images of the nerves that run through the given muscle you plan on injecting into. That way you can know exactly what you're avoiding and it'll will prevent accidentally hitting one.

https://amzn.to/2RkC7De something like this is what I have

but if you do opt for the syringe method, i recommend this

I got 10ml syrynges and 3ml syrynges each for around $8, 120ml of 12mg base for $6.39, strawberry ripe and vanilla bean ice cream both for $3.95 and from TFA.

not at all
Subtotal (5 items): $46.23
and you lget mor than you'll ever need.
you can optimize it by picking smaller pack but just to give you an idea what you are in for.
get some wide mouth bottles with a scale.
edit:
oh and get a funnel for the 30ml bottles!!!

to measure your flavours
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Measuring-E-Liquids-Adhesives/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485157215&sr=8-1&keywords=syringe+set

bottle to carry your juice with you more than enough i bought ten and thats more than needed
https://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Plastic-Dropping-Bottles-30ml/dp/B00F098JJA/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1485157332&sr=8-1&keywords=30ml+bottles

for when you are to lazy to shake
https://www.amazon.com/MatchaDNA-Handheld-Milk-Frother-Silver/dp/B018TCWL8O/ref=sr_1_4?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1485157363&sr=1-4&keywords=milk+foamer

storrage for your juices
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Mouth-Experiment-Bottle-Capacity/dp/B016CLEU1U/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1485157538&sr=1-1&keywords=bottles+100ml

storage for you base
https://www.amazon.com/Lautechco-1000ml-Plastic-Experiment-Reagent/dp/B01MEGYZGA/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1485158603&sr=8-20&keywords=1000ml+wide+mouth

blunt tip needles are cheap and safer.

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Liquids-cigs-juice/dp/B01CFJ51X4?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_13895365011

edit: c & p fail

Yes. Don't mix it with any other juice.

This is what I did with my vape oil.

I got this from Max vapor nail. Refillable cartridge:

https://maxvapornail.com/collections/featured-products/products/glass-cartridge-with-ceramic-core-and-preheater-coil

You can use one of these pens right here for $24 with a charger:

https://o2vape.com/product/oil-vaporizer-battery-white/

I bought syringe from Amazon to use to fill the cartridge:

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Refilling-Measuring-E-Liquids-Adhesives/dp/B01CFJ51X4/ref=pd_sbs_328_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZK0EQ5Z4GBTKGNMP9ZWF


Hope this helps you. Here is the review I did on vaping using a refillable cartridge.

https://www.cbdreviews.net/max-vapor-nail-glass-cartridge-with-ceramic-core-preheater-coil/

After reading thru this site, here is my shopping list:

• 500ml, 100Mg/ml Supercritical Nicotine/USP PG (CXTC)
  
• Peach Colorless Flavor Concentrate by LA (4oz) (Wizard Labs)
  
• Vegetable Glycerin USP
  
• Gloves, Flasks, Syringes, Bottles
  
  Going for a 70pg/30vg blend, just need to track down a good e-juice calculator from the sidebar.

In that case, the syringe is pretty handy to have. I got this variety pack from Amazon < link > so I could try different sizes, and the 1ml (smallest one) ended up working the best for me to load the B-coil.

I have used the oven method one time, and glad I came back to check it out. I do not recommend using the oven, temps are unstable relatively, and the time needed to dry and the low temps needed, I can not achieve with my oven (full electric lowest temp is 140°f which is 60°c. I know it was unstable do to the filament getting too soft (recommend oven temp is 40°c, if I'm not mistaken).

So I would recommend food dehydrator, here are search results for you https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=filament+dehydrator&dwh=765d2638b300bca

My dry box has no design I just grab something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Latching-Storage-Container-FG3Q2500CLMCB/dp/B002EGNTP6/ref=sr_1_34?gclid=CjwKCAjwmZbpBRAGEiwADrmVXhoB2wgZo-4gx7z0t49bn2TK9weXoN3pqk-2uQZ89k0uOZa3kjGyxhoC-4wQAvD_BwE&hvadid=174242580843&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9005648&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10792283390857055523&hvtargid=kwd-123073099&hydadcr=15250_9600094&keywords=rubbermaid+bin&qid=1562786027&s=gateway&sr=8-34. The one I got was from family dollar, so it only costed like $7.

I used this for the feed holes https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172384

Silica is enough when you have a ton of it, those little packets are fine for vacuum sealed stuff, IMO, but you want more than the 30-50 pellets that come in the single packet. I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Indicating-Desiccants-Dehumidifier-Air-Tight/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?crid=3MHZ5INHY9XMM&keywords=silica+packets+for+moisture&qid=1562786465&s=gateway&sprefix=silica+p%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-12-spons&psc=1, take the money you save on the box (when bought from a bargain store) and put the difference into that or buy some cheaper stuff and add this to the mix https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3QHXOT7LWVYXF&keywords=humidity+gauge&qid=1562786618&s=gateway&sprefix=humidity%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A39VTLCPMNRL3Z

Again the links above are for reference to visually understand what I am mentioning. You can obviously find this stuff cheaper elsewhere. I just prefer amazon or ebay for certain things (TBH 90% of everything I buy, haven't purchased in store items, other than food, for a long time now).

I’ve heard of people using bulk desiccants such as this

https://www.amazon.com/Interteck-Packaging-Indicating-Desiccant-Industry/dp/B01G5NTCWW

It can even be re used after, and is dirt cheap.

Depends on where you live. I've stored guns in foam cases for weeks without issue but I'm in Phoenix. If you can get the shelf closed up fairly well and can keep some desiccant in there https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0zoxCbD7B7YKQ you could change it out and dry it as needed and should be good.

Dont have a link to the individual one i have because i picked it up at my local brick and mortar for about 3-4$. But THIS kit looks like more than enough for ~9$ on amazon. If you poke around a bit more im sure you could find an individual one.

Maybe a E-cig store. amazon hopefully linking isn’t against the rules.

BSTEAN Syringe Blunt Tip Needle... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HFTYINS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


this is what i bought brother

You can also drill a tiny hole to the middle of the crack and use a blunt tip syringe (like the ones for shots but not sharp) to apply glue or epoxy.

Then remove the bolt in the joint and cut a spline slot with a circular saw in the direction in which the forces occur. Glue in a hardwood spline. replace bolt.

I bought these syringe tips and they've been working well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1VO3E6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2nd link is just a cap... You can use a push on needle tip works fine. The first link will "lock" the needle onto syringe but not 100% necessary... If you get something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K1VO3E6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CTE7TVHA387F1V8PPMNE sorry i don't know how to do link how you did...

You can just push it on the syringe really hard and warm up the syringe with a couple passes from a lighter... It comes out pretty easy once warm.. Warm the carts to so oil flows to bottom easily...

My Vision II spinner has 4 settings 3.3V 3.8V 4.3V 4.8V.

I live in a pretty humid climate as well, and the best advice I got was to use the least amount of liquid possible, add citric last, and keep the batches small. Here's the recipe I developed:

1/2 c. Baking soda
3/8 c. Citric acid
1/4 c. Corn starch (or tapioca, arrowroot, etc)
2 tsp. Bentonite Clay (optional)
2-3 tsp. Flowers/tea/herbs/etc (optional)
1/4 tsp. Epsom or Sea salt
1/2 tsp. Witch hazel/water/alcohol
1 tbsp. Coconut oil (or shea, cocoa, olive, etc)
About 1/2 tsp. (tops) essential oils
5-10 spritzes of witch hazel IF NEEDED

I had over 80% humidity for a solid 4 months and was still able to make really good BBs. The other thing that helps is silicate packs, like they put in food. These are reusable, just pop em in the microwave or oven to dehydrate and use again! My bombs dry in a few hours now:

https://smile.amazon.com/Wisedry-Rechargeable-Desiccant-Indicating-Reusable/dp/B01M7V19JE/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1542658701&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=silicate+packets

Here what I use, it allows for 2 rolls in a bag or larger rolls.

Hefty Slider Jumbo Storage Plastic Bags - 2.5 Gallon Size, 3 Boxes of 15 Bags (45 Total) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741C6N93/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ck3ZCb48A269W

Plus these for inside the bag

5 Gram [60 Packs] Silica Gel Packets Rechargeable Desiccant Pouches with Color Indicating Beads Reusable Moisture Absorbers Bags for Gun Safes Closet Tools Storage Food Grade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7V19JE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Bl3ZCb4H14CA1

I would just buy those card boxes you mentioned in the OP and limit how much you shift things around, it is not the boxes that are causing the scuffling as much as it's just the cards rubbing together.

I also bought these silicon moisture packs and put them in the boxes to reduce moisture the cards take in which cuts down on risk of having the cards warp

WiseDry makes "rechargeable" food grade ones in different sizes. For folks new to food storage, keep in mind that moisture packets are different from oxygen absorbers.

Just by heating it? Nice.
I was gonna buy something like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7V19JE/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3TTLWB3O3TZXN&psc=1

>You can add in desiccants or mothballs if you're worried about mold or bugs.

Is that, like, a must, or only "if I'm worried"? They may remain in storage for years so there's that.

And wdym, like, putting one of these in the bag: https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=silica&qid=1572639931&sr=8-11 ?

It depends on what you want to take. The dosages on here range from 2.5,5 to 10, 10 being the most. People seem to swear by the 2.5-5 range but I personally like 10. Maybe try 5 your first go around.

So here’s how I would do it

Get PG solution bundle from the source below, it has the solution and dropper bottles.

https://whitewaterresearch.com

And get a beaker from amazon, this is what I have

Karter Scientific 214T2, 3.3 Boro, Griffin Low Form, Glass Beaker Set - 3 Sizes - 50ml, 100ml, 250ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F47B8AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZCUyDb3YNPV8V

I would personally make a 50 ml solution.

Take the 50 ml beaker, fill up to 50ml line, dump in powder, mix (it may need to sit), poor into bottles and you’re done.

With that ratio of 50ml to your 1mg of powder you are looking at 20mg per ml (one dropper full)

So then you just math what you want. If you want to take 10mg then it’s half the dropper, if you want to take 5mg then it’s 1/4 the dropper.

If you want to be super precise with your dosing you can get one of these

BSTEAN 1ml 1cc Syringe with Luer Slip Tip, No Needle, Non-Sterile (Pack of 50) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N01TO2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OGUyDb8DK6M6F

I personally like these because it does make it precise and the pipettes that come with the bottles tend to be shit.

Know how that goes, tip for ya next time (three cats here, all have needed pills at one point or another, one of them has lung nodules and needed medication for a year two pills twice a day).

Short answer, dissolve the pills in a bit of water and then use a needless syringe to squirt into back of throat. I actually think it's easier on the cat and the human vs the method shown in the image. It's also handy if you need to split tiny pills into say quarters. Dissolve pill in 4 mL of water and then just give 1mL dosage. Make sure to ask your vet if that method is OK for the pills before doing.

Things you'll need:

• Mortar and pestle. Used to crush the pill into a powder.
  
  
• syringes.
  
  Crush the pill in mortar & pestle. Dump powder into syringe tube. Fill with water and shake. Squirt into back of kitties mouth and done.
  
  Also, this is assuming there isn't a liquid version of the medicine. I always ask the vet.

Take the rubber stoppers out. Turn it upside down and hit it with a hairdryer until the oil pools. Take a blunt tipped syringe and suck it out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBSWJ5R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since we're sharing our pH meters, I use this when I need to check (which isn't all that often)

Here's the Amazon link for anyone interested:

https://www.amazon.com/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/