Best laptop network adapters according to redditors

Mother boards with WiFi have external antennas (scroll down a bit), they just screw on the back like any other WiFi radio. Bluetooth receivers tend to be no bigger than USB dongle ones but they don't take up a USB slot.

Wifi motherboards do not cost more than using an external card. WiFi LGA1151. Non-WiFi.. The 3 external adapters you linked cost $37, $85 and $108 respectively. The difference between two motherboards is certainly less than $85 for one with and without Wifi.

Additionally, if you notice most of the WiFi enabled motherboards are mini-ITX where space is at a premium. Using built in Wifi is a space saver. Rather than trying to cram another PCI card in your already limited space.

There are plenty of valid reasons to buy a motherboard with built-in WiFi, don't come at me with your bullshit.

That's why they invented couplers

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

I don't see anyone else recommending a 4x4 AC wave2 wifi adapter, which until 802.11ax is out should be the best. Assuming you have a 4x4 AC wave2 router of course.

X399 motherboard size, X399 motherboard pricing, X370 chipset.

I have a VI Hero. What's the point? It's the same X370 chipset with only 16 PCIe 3.0 lanes and 4 PCIe 2.0 lanes, only 1 M.2 SSD, same 8 SATA connectors, same gigabit — not 10 Gb — Ethernet. “Extra breathing room for videocards” isn't new either — VI Hero too has 2 slots separating its PCIe 3.0 slots. VI Extreme has the same SupremeFX S1220 audio as VI Hero.

Did I mention Crossfire/SLI works at x8/x8? And the motherboard costs $350 according to Asus https://www.asus.com/us/News/jTWOD9ZaAbcF5EAq I bet for the same amount of money you may want to get a Threadripper motherboard with X399 chipset which probably supports x16/x16 SLI/Crossfire.

The only thing I see being different is the number of fan pins, although VI Hero already had more than enough for a gaming prosumer tower. VI Hero supports custom water-cooling loops as well with its water pump and water sensor pins. Oh, and it looks like VI Extreme is a E-ATX motherboard so you will have to get a spacey case. VI Hero fits in regular ATX form factor.

There are literally 0 reasons to upgrade your motherboard. If you want Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, get Intel 8260 https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE/ or wait for 9260 to become available — it has Bluetooth 5.0. Well, and get some antennas as well. Or, if you are buying new, get VI Hero with Asus Wi-Fi module https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Crosshair-VI-Hero-Motherboard/dp/B072LX7WLN

In fact, if I were building right now, I would probably stick to $250 VI Hero since it's the same X370 chipset. And it's quite mature overall.

I'm 100% sure that is an intel 8260 wifi+bluetooth card.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Dual-Band-Wireless-8260/dp/B0197W86IE

CPU and GPU are under some copper pipe/plate.

No, you need Wi-Fi of some sort. If you can't add a Wi-Fi router, you might be able to purchase an inexpensive dongle (like this one) and run a Wi-Fi network from your computer. Otherwise, you'll have to rely on public Wi-Fi networks like at a library or restaurant.

I have a T440p (High Sierra and Linux Mint dual boot) also and Wi-Fi isn't working, Lenovo has a whitelist for Hardware, so changing the Wi-Fi card is not that easy. I just use a Wi-Fi dongle -> https://www.amazon.es/TP-LINK-TL-WN823N-adaptador-inalámbrico-10-7-10-11/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&keywords=usb%2Bwifi&qid=1564018664&s=computers&sr=1-3&th=1

​

VGA port is also useless.

Thank you! I've just tested a TP-Link TL-WN725N that I use on my SNES Classic, and I was able to go online in RetroArch on the PS Classic!

Here's an Amazon link to the TL-WN725N.

I've also tested a TP-Link Archer T9UH just for the hell of it, which did not work, as I expected.

EDIT: Also for the hell of it, I have just tested a Cable Matters USB 2.0 to Ethernet adapter, that I use on my Raspberry Pi Zero W, and it works on the PS Classic too!

Here's an Amazon link to the USB 2.0 to Ethernet adapter.

The wifi card might have been damaged or disconnected from the antenna cables. You'll need to open the laptop to get to it. Or you could buy a usb wifi adapter. Like this thing for instance

Just get a USB wifi adapter. Something like this or if you want one thats smaller and less in the way you can get this one. The smaller one probably has less range and lower max speed.

Or if you have extra expansion slots and need faster wifi you can get a PCIe wifi card like this.

NOTE: I haven't done much research on this so the listed products are just examples of the types of solutions available. By no means am I recommending these as the best in their respective classes. I just own TP-link stuff and trust them is all.

I have a 2012 retina MBP. Works perfectly fine but did not support the unlock with watch feature. After some searching, I found you can do it if you just swap out the wifi card. Cost me $40 and a half hour of my time. I can confirm 100% this card works. Read the reviews.

Here are links to the bt/wifi card and adapter pcie card I ordered. I've used this same combo in my personal machine, before I upgraded my graphics card and lost High Sierra support, to great results as well

Im using the TP Link 150Mbps Wireless N Nano USB Adapter (Model No. TL-WN725N)
Link: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395410816&sr=8-1&keywords=tl+wn725n

But I must say I tried OpenElec and Xbian, and I only managed to get it working on OpenElec because it worked 'Out-of-the-Box' :)

You have a couple of options: Internal wireless card, or USB wireless card.

there's tons of different brands and price-points, but they essentially do the same thing. If you want to find more, on Amazon or ebay or whatever search "PCI Wireless card' for the internal, and "USB Wireless card" for the USB one.

Wireless USB dongle?

Something like this -

TP-Link N150 Wireless Nano USB Adapter (TL-WN725N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jEf6yb1KGKVK5

Try Wireless USB Adapter. Simply plug the device into laptop's USB port. The price of 498 right now at Amazon is over priced. You could get it at cheaper price at offline computer shop

TP-LINK you will NOT find a better adapter.

Mini


Big Boy

As long as you stay away from no-name Chinese stuff it should be fine. I recently bought this TP-Link for $10.

It worked with my settings as soon as I plugged it in, the speed is great, and though my WAP is sitting on my desk, I can connect and get good speed from the WAP in my wife's office completely on the other side of the house.

I cannot speak for THAT motherboard, but some like the ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-G will work with mPCIe cards like this. See Hackintosher layout an entire build with it.

The better option I think is still this card: Fenvi FV-T919 - you can find it at NewEgg and AliExpress, both sold by Fenvi.

Before you bail on Windows, make sure to patch your BIOS to get WiFi working.

This is the Wi-Fi card I have: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LP52BNI/

It's possible to upgrade the Wifi card in the 7567, with the most common upgrade being an Intel 8260 or 8265. You can find them for roughly $25-$30 online.

Amazon Link to 8260: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502720437&sr=8-2&keywords=intel+8265

Amazon Link to 8265: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-8265-NGWMG-BlueTooth-Brown/dp/B01MZA1AB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502720437&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+8265

You might as well just buy a NIC for that price. What head end router do you have anyway?

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

Yeah, I say return that shit, you got taken in by very misleading marketing.

A wireless router can't transmit data any faster than what the client it's talking to is capable of.

Most modern clients are only capable of the 867Mbps or 1300Mbps max 802.11ac PHY rates, which, after typical Wi-Fi overhead, means 500-700 Mbps max throughput, and that's on a clean channel with the client in the same room as the AP, and no other devices taking up any airtime. The max PHY rate you can get drops off dramatically with distance and interference, so if you put a wall or a floor/ceiling between your client and the AP, you'll get far less throughput.

I could go into painful technical detail about how shitty TP-Link's marketing claims are for that router, but unless you're really ready to nerd out about wireless modulation and coding schemes, let me just leave it at this: Your "red beast" isn't going to improve over the "550 wireless, 900 wired" performance of your existing rented router unless you have clients capable of one or more of the following unusual speed-boosting technologies:

1. Support for 4 spatial streams. One ASUS PCIe WNIC for desktops supports this, but it's not common in laptops or tablets or phones because small devices don't have enough room for 4 separate antennas spaced out enough to be useful. Support for 4 spacial streams also adds power consumption (lessens battery life), increases thermal load (fans would have to run more, or throttle the CPU, GPU, or Wi-Fi more), and adds cost.
   
2. Support for using nonstandard 1024-QAM modulation with 802.11ac. 1024-QAM is part of the brand-new, just-barely-started-shipping 802.11ax/"Wi-Fi 6" standard, but some vendors added nonstandard 1024-QAM support to their 802.11ac devices. Your "red beast" doesn't actually support 802.11ax, so this speed boost only works with client devices that support this weird nonstandard mode. As it turns out, that same ASUS PCE-AC88 I linked to above happens to be one of the few WNICs that supports this. It seems Broadcom added nonstandard 1024-QAM support to one or two of their highest-end 802.11ac chipsets a couple years ago, so there are a few Broadcom-based client devices or WNIC cards that support it. I'm not aware of whether any other chipset vendors support it, or whether the support is interoperable between vendors (since it hasn't been standardized by the IEEE and the Wi-Fi Alliance doesn't certify compatibility for it).

I've never bought anything other than cheap ones from amazon. This is the one I've bought several of recently.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SH6GV5S

I purchased a pair of antenna's to attach to an M.2 Wifi card, but I cannot get the connectors from the antenna to attach to the M.2 card and stay. Are there different WiFi antenna connector sizes? Did I make a bad purchase?

Transporting video (a bandwidth hungry service) over Wi-Fi (a relatively slow network) often results in issues. Chromecast devices are flawed because they are 2.4 GHz only and only have a single antenna. That's a link rate of 65 Mbps and actual throughput in the 30s (under optimal conditions). Since you only have a 802.11g router the actual peak throughput is only about 23 Mbps. Once you factor in distance, 802.11 congestion, 2.4 GHz interference, and any other impediments such as the TV itself being in the way of the Wi-Fi signal, the actual throughput will be less. Streaming Netflix from your laptop on Wi-Fi means there are three concurrent streams on the wireless network: one from the base station to your laptop, one from your laptop to the base station, and one from the base station to the Chromecast.

You need to offload devices from the wireless network and plug them in when possible. Second, upgrade devices to 802.11n as 802.11g is just too slow. If you buy a new wireless router but your client devices still have 802.11g radios, that device will still connect at 802.11g speeds.

The laptop probably can be upgraded by swapping the mini-PCIe 802.11 card. The PS3 can't, but you could plug it into a wireless bridge adapter (Ethernet cable between the PS3 and the device which connect to the wireless network). Ideally you'd run Ethernet cable to the PS3 to reduce online game latency.

TP-Link | N150 USB wireless WiFi network Adapter for PC with SoftAP Mode - Nano Size, Compatible with Windows XP/7/8/8.1/10 - Mac OS 10.6~10.13 - Linux Kernal 2.6.18~4.4.3 (TL-WN725N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cdckDbFYAMH4V

Here's the approved Wi-Fi adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU And the Inateck OTG hub: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00OCBXIY8

Not the biggest and the baddest, but I always have one or two of these on hand.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2LZSS68P0B5JA&keywords=usb+wireless+adapter&qid=1565881705&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=usb+wireless+%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-3

I changed the parts around a bit. I searched around Newegg a bit more and was able to find a few deals that seemed better. I also should have stated the price has to be lower than $735 before rebates.



Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI H81M-P33 LGA 1150 Intel H81 Motherboard | $48.99 @ Newegg
Memory | ADATA XPG V2 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory | $68.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Hitachi Ultrastar 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $52.00 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card | $249.99 @ Amazon
Case | Rosewill FB-04 Dual Fans ATX Mid Tower Computer Case | $29.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-LINK TL-WN725N Wireless N Nano USB Adapter 150Mbps | $8.88 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $725.22



I believe this is the build he will go with unless there is a problem present in it. Thanks for the help.

CPU: Great choice.

CPU Cooler: You don't need it unless you OC.

Motherboard: perfect. If you want cheaper option, /u/m0ronsoldier recommended a motherobaord for cheaper price:

>AsRock B350 Pro4 @ Rs.7180 vs. ASUS Rog Strix B350 @ Rs.9900. No major difference other than very slightly less OC'ing capability

RAM: If this model is on QVL. It is fine.

VC: Great choice. 1050 TI is very good budget card. You can play many titles on this little beast. I would sugest to think carefully before buying this card. Since you said you might upgrade, but you are not sure if you will, it is better to buy 1060. think this: you spend 12K for 1050 TI. You sell it for 8K. You buy 1060 6GB for 24K. Total money spent: 12,000 + 24,000 - 8,000 = 28K. If you just buy 1060 6GB for now, you save those extra 4K. Are you getting my point? However, it is also a good decision to buy 1050 TI and see if you will really be needing 1060 or higher-end GC.

SSD: Hmmm...Any particular reason? Besides faster loading times, faster boot, faster installation, responsiveness, there is really no need for an SSD. That said, hard disk are not that bad. I say, drop this SSD because they are costly right now and you can upgrade it anytime later. With win 10 fast startup, your PC will boot up and shut down in seconds even on HDD. If you really need an SSD, go for SATA. M.2 also gets hot faster and needs proper cooling. I would highly recommend you either drop this SSD or go for an 250GB SSD. I am learning blender, a 3D graphics software, and even I don't need a 500GB SSD. I suggest you re-invest this money on 1060 6GB. 1060 is almost 50-60% faster than 1050 Ti. You will really benefit from this VC than an SSD.

UPS: Circle UPS...Hmmm...I know they make crappy PSUs, but UPS? I am not sure. Go for APC or something better. UPS is also something I highly recommend going for.

PSU: Let us come to the main topic. 450W will do the job fine. It is not a wise decision to go for 450W if you will upgrade your components in the future. The bare minimum I recommend is 550W. This lasts longer, and have enough headroom. I say this because a PSU is something you don't really replace in a year or two. PSU is something that should last longer than your CPU and other components. Cheaping out is never a good option. Sometimes they last for longer than 7-10 years. Haha!

Go for TX650M

or

S12G


These two are very good units and better than the CX450M. Now let us again do the basic math. You buy 430W PSU for 3.6K. two years later you find that 430W is not enough for you 1070, you buy a 6.5K unit. Total money spent: 10.1K Now if you had gone for the 6.5K PSU initially, you would have saved yourself 3.5K.

Now I am not saying 430W is not enough for 1060. It is enough. But you are better off with a 550W unit. You can upgrade till 1070 on a 550W model. It will also be more efficient and will stay rather cool and there is also the ease of mind.

Wifi: there is a USB adapter that goes on selling for about 350 or 500. You can check reviews :) Completely your choice.

I've used something like this. It's tiny and I never notice it. The better option is to just connect with an Ethernet cord of course. Faster and less ping.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397974418&sr=1-2&keywords=usb+wireless+adapter

Is there a real tangible difference between the small usb wifi adapter's such as this:http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-150Mbps/dp/B008IFXQFU?ie=UTF8&keywords=usb%20wifi%20adapter&qid=1462067747&ref_=sr_1_5&s=pc&sr=1-5 compared to a bigger, full-size one like:http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T4U-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00JBJ6VG8?ie=UTF8&keywords=tp%20link%20usb%20wifi&qid=1462067879&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5

The distance between where this PC would be and the router is fairly small, there is only one wall between them.

Is it a desktop? You'll probably need a wireless adapter of some kind, this is probably the easiest way to get wireless.

For audio download [this driver](http://www.realtek.com/downloads/downloadsCheck.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false#High Definition Audio Codecs) and see if it works.

https://github.com/neurobin/MT7630E

Looks like that's all there is to support that bit of hardware. Which, looks like it's a hack to run the device via firmware stripped out of the windows driver. So surely it can't really be legally distributed... But someone has put the bins on github anyway. That the sort of thing distributions just won't risk, for reasons varying from ethics to just not wanting to be sued into oblivion.

Honestly, I wouldn't put a lot of effort into getting this working. I'd probably put a pin in using linux until I got a different notebook, whenever that would be. Sometimes hardware support is just bad.

Or you could try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+wifi&qid=1562035848&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Doesn't seem too horribly obtrusive. I'm sure the range will be pretty bad, cause you can't fit much of an antenna in that little dongle. Keep in mind that only the cheapest one, the single band "150Mb" (like you'll ever manage that on it), is compatible.

My first recommendation would be to if possible set up an Ethernet connection. That will most likely be your absolute best bet. However, if that is not possible at this time, getting a USB WiFi adapter (can be purchased locally at most tech stores or you can get something like this on Amazon, depending on your ISP's speeds) should serve you well for now.

Not OP but Is there any difference between using this card and just using say a USB adapter like this

I have this one it does the job very well: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495218324&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=tp+linkusb+wi+fi

> You just need a wifi adapter, either internal PCIE, or external USB.

You can't magically make a wired connection wireless, you need to add hardware. A wireless adapter in this case.

Like this - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI

or this - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU

Not an answer but you know that you can get a USB WiFi dongle for your laptop for $10 right? Something to consider

TP-Link TL-WN725N N150 USB wireless WiFi network Adapter for pc with SoftAP Mode - Nano Size, Compatible with Windows XP/7/8/8.1/10 - Mac OS 10.6~10.11 - Linux Kernal 2.6~3.16 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KduPBbB7295ZK

So buying and using a wifi USB Adapter, like this, will solve the problem?

Do you need a new router? If there's a PC of any kind in your house you should be able to just buy a £5 wireless USB dongle and have it run as a hotspot sharing that PC's connection.

There are several websites out there that deal specifically with Linux hardware like ThinkPenguin but you would probably have luck just searching "Linux Nano Wifi Dongle" in something like Amazon or AliExpress. I have had luck with TP Link Dongles

Eh, this tip, especially for the samba server would have been good.
I was a bit on a budget, but needed wifi (for pi2 location, far from router, on top of a furniture), so I purchased a TP-LINK TL-WN725N Wireless Adapter 150Mbps.
It should reach the effective ~20MB/s.
Thanks for the tip tho, I may buy it when I'll switch the 64GB USB Stick for a proper HDD.

In my experience, TP-Link TL-WN725N 150Mbps Wireless N Nano USB Adapter works out of the box for Linux. I have the same specs:

broadcom bcm43142 chipset and Ubuntu 16.04
Here is the link

Ten bucks. This is all you need. Not necessary to get one that isn’t usb.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-wAWCbGEXKCBB

Or if you still have the other one you tried....what was the problem??

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1426709490&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=tp+link+300+usb

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

One of my favorites

Be right back with amazon link edit: something under $10 for when I don't have internet after my move.

Thanks for the contest <3

Thanks! I'm gonna set it up. The same adapter is on Amazon, too.

Others have stated that TP-Link is a good bet, personnally i have 5 or 6 of these on my various machines at home, works out of the box every time (tested on Debian, Ubuntu, Arch, Raspbian).

Thank you very much for helping me improve my chances!

• Model: Raspberry Pi 3 B+
  
• OS: Raspbian Stretch
  
• VPN Software: TOR
  
• USB Network Interface: TP-Link TL-WN725N
  
• USB Network Interface Firmware: Realtek RTL8188EUS 802.11n Wireless Network Adapter (I think, according to lsusb results)
  
  So do you think I just need to run a command to restart the USB port? Why doesn't it just do that on startup?
  
  ​

The adapters I mention in the video are the ones I personally use. The OTG adapter is not the best choice but it's worked for me so far. The wifi adapter has been used by a few of the members at Hakchi Resources and is verified to work.

OTG Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LTHBCNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wifi Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IFXQFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The problem with booting without the flash drive is probably related to the EFI partition on your hard drive not being set up correctly. Try mounting the EFI partition with a program like Clover Configurator and confirm that everything is on the partition inside the folder entitled EFI. You've probably already seen it, but the guide here has everything you need for macOS on the T420.

A good guide to get iMessage working is available here.

Two WiFi adapters that will work out-of-the-box in the T420 and require no configuration whatsoever in macOS are the Dell DW1510 and Dell DW1515. You will need to install a modified BIOS without the WiFi whitelist to use either one of these cards. That modified BIOS is available here.

Your machine has a mini-pcie slot for its Wi-Fi card. The best one available is this.

Page 91 of this Service Manual shows you how to replace it.

No, that's full size PCIe. Like this. There's a small vertical card near the SATA ports, that's the card you need to replace. The antennas use a standard connector (that can be a little fiddly).

As others have said, your wireless probably isn't going to work any better after installing. When setting up Linux on a laptop, I always just swap out the Wi-Fi card with one of these. http://amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJCBV64 It's an Intel WiFi card, cheap ($25), 99% chance it's better and more future proof than what you have and you will have nothing but smooth sailing, since Intel actually creates kernel drivers for their hardware. On most laptops it's a 5 minute job swapping them out. Most laptops come with bottom of the barrel wi-fi cards, and can have poor signal, etc. So it's easier to just not worry about it.

I don't use Mint or Docky, so I can't really comment on that issue.

Sounds like your Wi-Fi device is possible faulty, since you are using a five year old device a Wi-Fi dongle like this, or this, is recommended.

So far, the only thing that won't work is wifi. You have to replace the Intel card in the T420 with a compatible one (I used a Dell Wireless 1510 (DW1510), or you can use a USB wifi adapter.

I got this one from Amazon, because I needed to have one that would tripleboot Mac/windows/peppermint Linux:

DW1510 AGN BCM94322 Half Dual-band N Pci-e Wirless WLAN Card 802.11a/g/n 2.4G & 5G for Laptops & Netbooks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP52BNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SNPZCbD9WP3B2

It works fine, and it only cost $12, but I think there are even faster and better ones available.

I think you probably should first update your bios to allow non-whitelisted cards before you buy anything though.


Edit: if MacOs compatibility is key, here is some info on three possible cards. Like I said, I picked the cheapest, and it works, but it is not super-fast: http://x220.mcdonnelltech.com/

Dell DW1510

I've got the GA-H87N-WIFI and while bluetooth worked natively with the included card, WiFi did not.

Then I ordered a BCM94360CD from a Late 2013 iMac and a Mini PCI-E adapter and I've got native bluetooth and wifi with full Handoff/Continuity functionality without any other changes necessary.

Wireless Apple Keyboard and Magic Mouse work in BIOS and everything. Getting them to work in Windows has been hit and miss, but installing the Boot Camp drivers allowed me to use them seamlessly between boots at one point.

If you go the native card route, probably will need to add extra antennas to get decent WiFi performance since your motherboard will only come with two antennas. BCM94360CD has 3 WiFi and 1 bluetooth antennas, although just plugging in to the two center ports is enough for basic continuity/handoff functionality.

I'm not sure if there are any non-native wifi/bluetooth cards that Continuity will accept, but you might be able to get a Broadcom card working as long as you have Bluetooth 4.0 and use this activation tool. Intel cards are a bust.

Has anyone tried, or does anyone know whether or not replacing the Macbook's built-in wifi card with a 802.11ac compatible card will enable this feature? I have a mid-2012 rMBP and a S2 Apple Watch, and I'd like to be able to upgrade the wifi card with something like this.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PDN4H9E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2I9JAMM3F4Q6T&psc=1

Will it work, or does Apple simply look at the model of the laptop to determine whether to enable this feature?

Edit: I read some of the comments on Amazon and it looks like others have had success with the new Auto Unlock feature by upgrading their wifi card. I ordered it and if it works, I'll edit this post again.

Mate I saw a post here a while ago, about this (our) model Macbook. You can use a newer version of the card so it can enable auto-unlock with the Apple Watch - if you have one.

I think this is the part he was talking about - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDN4H9E/

Still trying to track down post for you.

edit: here is the post I found the info from - https://www.reddit.com/r/AppleWatch/comments/56wmqc/auto_unlock_on_older_macs_diy/

Get the newer intel 8265. It's $26 on Amazon link and free one day shipping (in my area anyways)

BIOS Version 1.0.9
Make sure you also downloaded the new BIOS that just released the other day
LINK (Assuming you have the 17R4 as your title says, but you wrote 17R3 in comments)

I cant find the 8265 either... but a ton of Intel wifi cards with all kinds of different names. I have no idea what the difference is.

For example this one is the best selling one on Amazon Germany https://www.amazon.de/WLAN-Mini-PCI-Express-INTEL-7260/dp/B00N7474CS/

and there are A LOT of different ones... this seems to be yours though https://www.amazon.de/Intel-8260-NGWMG-INTEL-Dual-Wireless-8260/dp/B0197W86IE

Amazon

Even if the warranty isn't over, there's nothing stopping you from swapping it.

The one my laptop uses is $19.99 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE

I would say first try removing the Killer Internet Suite/whatever they call it and just leave the driver installed, not the additional software that they try to bundle with it.

If that doesn't solve it, the recommended replacement I've seen floating around this sub is the Intel 8260, or its newer brethren, the Intel 9260

Some general rules of thumb (you'll probably already know):

• LAN > WiFi > Powerline
  
• 2.4 ghz > 5 ghz, if big obstacles like walls are in the way, doesn't really matter if it's the same room
  
  Usually i would suggest following combo as it is Miracast compatible:
  https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016RU3T6S/ &
  https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0197W86IE/
  
  But as this would be the double of your price tag, i'd advise this one: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Archer-T4U-Wireless-One-Button/dp/B00JBJ6VG8
  
  It does a pretty good job at some clients of mine.
  
  Please try to avoid Powerline Adapters, as they could do more "harm" then good.
  
  Common Promblems:
  
  
• They create a lot of noise in different frequencies, as they use between 2 and 68 Mhz for datatransmissions. Powercables are not shielded and that way you have a huge, radio jamming antenna.
  
• In some countries your Powerline Solution can be shut down by authorities if it disrupts your neighbours radio and you have to pay for the whole fieldop find your noise creating device.
  
• They have to be in the same powercircuit to function properly
  
• Turning on any device in that circuit could crash the powerlan connections (took us weeks to find out that the vacuum cleaner was crashing a clients printer connection)
  
• Speed is not really as "promised" or "advertised"
  

Intel Network 8260NGW 3rd Generation 802.11ac, dual band, 2x2 Wi-Fi + Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0VotybGGZ71ST

On your decision to avoid the Kraken X62 because of its software, it's not a bad way to go. The software is super intuitive and the lighting effects look awesome, if you can get it to detect your AIO, that is. I would say CAM detects my X62 every 1 in 3 fresh boots, and the other 2 times it just doesn't acknowledge my cooler and I can't change the lighting or fan curves. I don't know know how good Corsair Link is, otherwise I could recommend you to check out the H100i/H115i since it has similar lighting features.

With regards to the motherboard, if built-in wifi is a necessity, you can do what I did and get the cheaper Hero board and just add your own wifi card. The Hero actually has an empty slot beneath the I/O shroud for an M.2 wifi/bluetooth card. This is the card I got, you'll also need antennas that connect to the card via tiny snap-on clips. The Hero's I/O shield has holes for the antenna that you have to punch out, and then you install the shield like normal and just screw on the antennas afterwards. Apparently the built-in wifi for the Code/Formula isn't too great, so this might be your best option.

Lastly, the Hero doesn't have too many internal USB headers, so if you go with that board then you'll need an internal USB hub which adds more slots. The convenient thing about this newer version is that the base is magnetic, so you can stick it wherever you want for ideal cable management.

Im thinking about getting the ASUS AC88 Wifi adapter
(Because I cant run Ethernet to the room and various Powerline adapters have not worked out for few different reasons)

Anyway my question is it safe to assume that if my phone can consistently connect to my 5ghz signal this adapter can too? The only real reason I’m getting this specific adapter is because of the reach because my router is a bit far.

The price is a bit out there but I’m tired of it at this point and just want something that’s gonna work well and deliver the speeds I should be getting. My phone can always hit 120-150 Mbps while my computer jumps around 5-25 through Powerline/cheap USB WiFi adapters.

There's no built in wireless adapter if that's what you're asking.

Honestly not very read up on the M.2 wireless adapters but if you have a free M.2 slot I don't see why you couldn't get an M.2 adapter (don't take my word for it, not read up very well on them).

Generally though M.2 slots deactivates some SATA ports so I'd probably opt for a PCI-e 4x4 MIMO wifi adapter for future proofing. ex. https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC88-AC3100-802-11AC-Adapter/dp/B01H9QMOMY (note, not a recommendation, just an example)

If you don't have a high speed connection or a good router it's probably a waste of money and most 1x1/2x2 PCI-e adapters would suffice.

As I said though, my knowledge on M.2 wireless adapters is limited but for one it's noteworthy that if you don't have a 3x3 or 4x4 router it'd be wasted resources to get much more than a 2x2 adapter.. Also questioning the performance of mounting it inside the computer compared to external antenna of a PCI-e.

P.S. I'd probably have let someone else comment on it but I've seen a few similar posts lately with no answer so I figured I'd share my opinion on it at least even if it may not be the most helpful.

I'm a little clueless on what to look for in a wifi adapter nowadays. You used to just pick one with the highest letter at the end of it's name.

I'm sure my router doesn't support it, but I'd prefer if my wifi card can last me the next few years, which a router upgrade is possible during that timeline.

Could you suggest a decent PCI express card to go with?

I'm thinking maybe this one. Seems a bit expensive for a wifi card though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/?tag=pcpapi-20&th=1

Actually should I just go with a motherboard with onboard wifi?
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2Phj4D/asus-strix-z270-e-gaming-atx-lga1151-motherboard-strix-z270-e-gaming

A 3x3 AC like that TP-Link should be fine. You should get 300 to 400 Mbps with it from 15-20 feet, which is what I get with a Macbook Pro.

There is also the Asus PCE-AC88, which is a 4x4 AC. It's substantially more expensive. IMO, it's overkill for one computer but to each their own.

yes, if you would have gone for something like this, you would have got better numbers than A7000 which is limited by USB performance.

​

Internal cards are PCie based which is much higher performance than USB2.0 and even USB3.0.

one example,

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY/

​

I would not recommend any specific solution as everything has some or other problem.

​

other solution is you get a triband extender with ethernet port to get even better numbers. an example is NETGEAR EX8000 and plug in your PC to the LAN port.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Extender-EX8000/dp/B074F3M2W8/

​

**Other big question** you need to answer is whether your ISP router is even capable of gigabit performance on Wireless. I think Zyxcel C3000Z has pretty crappy wireless performance. You are better off with 3rd Party router.

​

​

You don't need a $125 AIO cooler to prevent overheating lol. That cooler would be for if you wanted to OC that bad boy up to 5.0ghz or something.

With a 23in 1080p monitor, you really don't need much. If I were you, I'd upgrade to a 27in 1440p 144hz monitor for the best gaming experience. Key here is to get either a Freesync or Gsync monitor, coupled with the correct GPU. I personally use a BenQ 27in model that's 1440p/144hz with an rx 470 8gb GPU (freesync). I have never had such a good gaming experience as to 144hz and Freesync, honestly, it's that good! edit-it also has incredible color accuracy for being a TN panel, better than my IPS panel next to it.

Don't spend $2300 on something only to look at it through a 23in shitty monitor. That's just ludicrous.

I dunno what your homework entails, or how intensive your art would be, but my guess is the 7700k would do just fine for that. The 1700 really shines when it comes to video encoding, virtualization, multi-tasking, etc etc. It games perfectly well, but with an Nvidia GPU you'll notice better framerates on the 7700k (at the high end). The one key thing about 1700 gaming performance, and this is entirely subjective but often repeated by actual owners...is that the 1700 is really* smooth. Like...really smooth to game with. No lag, no jittering, it's really immersive that way. It's probably because the CPU has so much overhead to it.

Anyways, give this WiFi card a look if you absolutely demand the best signal. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/?tag=pcpapi-20

I was more asking how far the signal has to travel. The big bonus that more expensive cards give you is more range, but if he's only going to be a room away then the range matters a bit less.

If price legitimately doesn't matter and his PC is pretty far away from the router or there are thick walls between the PC and router, this thing gets great reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

Never personally used that one, but a lot of people seem to like it. The drivers are a bit wonky though. If that's overkill, I own the card linked below and have never had any issues with it, and for the price I honestly don't know if you can beat it performance-wise. I would recommend it to anyone unless they need some serious range:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-Heatsink-Technology-T6E/dp/B016K0896K

Asus makes some excellent PCI-E Wi-Fi cards. I have a PCE-AC56 and it has worked flawlessly for me for over two and a half years. It's well within your price range and it offers excellent performance. If you're looking for something a bit more powerful, the PCE-AC68 is basically the upgrade to the PCE-AC56, and I can only assume it performs slightly better. A final choice is to go balls to the wall overkill with the PCE-AC88, which I find hard recommending unless you need massive range and signal strength, which doesn't seem to be something you require. It's also out of your stated price range, so this one is entirely up to you. Any one of these should handily solve your problem. If you're looking for a good quality Wi-Fi solution that doesn't take advantage of your wallet like a prison bitch, the PCE-AC56 is a great choice.

I'm currently in the process of upgrading my home network and have a similar problem. I'm renting and understand not being able to run a cord across the house. I've been using the top end powerline adapter (TP-link AV2000) and getting 60-70Mbps. I've read that this can be much better or worse just depending on your house wiring. I just quickly tried an Ookla speedtest with a MoCa 2.0 adapter and was able to get all of my 200Mbps internet connection. So it's at least that fast. I have a MocA 2.5 adapter coming in the mail today and I'm going to run an iPerf3 test on all three solution to see their full bandwidth. MoCa was the best solution for me. Other possible solutions:

1. Move the router, NAS, and workstation all into the same room and wire them with ethernet
   
2. Put a nice 4x4 AC router in the middle of the house and use 4x4 adapters on the NAS and workstation (or hardwire one of them). This won't be gigabit but can still be pretty fast. There might be fastest Wifi 6 hardware out now, but it's hard for me to keep up. It's still very early days for Wifi 6.
   
3. If they insist on a wireless solution and can't get a good connection to their workstation with a single router, the Orbi RBK50 is the fastest mesh solution.
   
   So I'd rank possible solutions:
   
   Wired Ethernet > MoCa > 4x4 Single AC Router with a strong signal to workstation > Orbi > Powerline

I bought [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H9QMOMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) . it is a bit expensive but to be honest I am enjoying it because there are no compromises . its very comparable to being hardwired. I went from hardwired to this for different reasons but I haven enjoyed this immensely for the past 5mo.

There are always USB adapters such as this one or ones that go into your PCIE slots if you have an open slot and your CPU has enough PCIE lanes such as this one .

I bought this one and haven't had any issues:

Bluetooth Adapter

Keep in mind they specify that there may be a difference based on whether you have a NATIVE (full OS install from disc) or UPGRADE (if you upgraded your OS from, say, Win 7/8). It looks like there is a compatibility difference.

Price History

• TP-Link Archer T2U Plus USB Wifi Adapter 600Mbps Wifi Adapter   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★☆ 4.1/5 from 4298 valid reviews
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Something like this will be just as good
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-desktop-10-9-10-14-Archer-T2U/dp/B07P5PRK7J/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=WiFi+adapter&qid=1574972872&s=pc&sr=1-7

https://subinsb.com/install-realtek-d723-wifi-driver-linux/#prerequisite

Once you are done dicking around with that, look at replacing that wifi module in the future.

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000005511/network-and-i-o/wireless-networking.html

https://www.amazon.com/AX200NGW-MU-MIMO-Wireless-Bluetooth-Support/dp/B07SH6GV5S/

It does exist.

You could get a 5ghz network bridge and connect the PS3 to it.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU

I'm guessing you have followed this forum post to try solve the problem, if not, try it. Most probably it's a faulty unit. You could return it back to the supplier you bought it from or get one of these things, a USB WLAN adapter. Only clause is, you'll lose a USB port.

I am pretty sure I own none of these games! You don't happen to need a Wireless USB adapter do you?

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407536531&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+usb

I have an extra one that's brand new and in box I can trade.

I have a wireless usb adapter on mine to give it that internet connection, like this one. Makes it very handy to copy files from my laptop to the arcade pc and download updates easily.

Sorry then. I don't think I can help you then. :(
Perhaps change your wifi card? Or try this usb wifi receiver or something similar?

I have owned a similar receiver made by the same company but with antenna. I don't think it requires driver. (In fact, the software that came with it made everything worse, so don't install it if you can.) I think(it has been a long time, so don't quote me on that) it worked with my broken window 10 laptop. It's only 7 dollars, so I think you should try it as a temporary solution if you can.

Well, yea that's another option - he's just using a USB adapter instead. Like he says in the video, it's only $10:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-150Mbps/dp/B008IFXQFU/

J'ai acheté un dongle wifi TP-Link pour mon Rapsberry Pi à la Coop. C'était 9.99$, enfaite c'est ça le prix qu'Amazon le vend aussi.

J'ai rien dit, mais c'est super utile pour le Pi haha!

Sorry for the confusion:
the hard line in your diagram made me think ethernet.

why have such a crazy config when you can just put out $10.00 and get them all back on a single subnet?

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411818117&sr=1-5&keywords=usb+wireless+g

A small USB adapter like this could fill in for wifi if it won't be too inconvenient.

this works with linux natively (I have it on my raspberry) but if you want something a little cheaper I bought this for my brother's laptop a while back and it's still working.

then a wireless network adapter is the way to go This is a good option

Some motherboards have wifi built in it, but most do not, you need a wifi usb or pci card

wifi

Ah nuggets, then I'd suggest either this or this

They are still somewhat cheap and should work perfectly with no issues :)

What usb dongle are you using? They have small form factor ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_13983791_1&pf_rd_p=77c4ee30-f0a9-5bb6-b6f5-56d3a9f5111d&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=13983791&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=BQGGQDFWYJ3PG3K43BGQ&pf_rd_r=BQGGQDFWYJ3PG3K43BGQ&pf_rd_p=77c4ee30-f0a9-5bb6-b6f5-56d3a9f5111d

Thanks, but will this work too? It's cheaper and I have Prime?


https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=wifi+adapter+usb&link_code=qs&qid=1569110383&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-4

​

Also, what kind of dongle will I need? I have this one for the memory card, but I assume I'll need something like this but with two USB ports?

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CXAC1ZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’m using this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU

Shouldn’t it handle at least 100?

Also, I read that you need to buy a WiFi Adapter most likely? DW1560 or DW1830? That sucks if its true... I currently have the killer wireless 1535 wondering if thats compatible? If not, can i purchase a USB Wifi+Bluetooth adapter;

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B07P6N2TZH/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=usb%2Bwifi%2Bbluetooth%2Badapter%2Bmac%2BOS&qid=1568219168&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1

or

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=usb%2Bwifi%2Bbluetooth%2Badapter%2Bmac%2BOS&qid=1568219168&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1

​

Thanks in advanced!

use this Prolink mini usb wifi 3.0 very good, small and cheap only 9.99 usd

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536207750&sr=8-4&keywords=mini+usb+wifi+adapter&dpID=31kxatlM2tL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Okay. This is a bit embarrasing to ask, but if I buy one of those usb-looking wireless adapters like this one, would I not have to purchase a whole wireless card like this one?

Thanks for the response. Right now wireless is the only option I have, there are no network cables coming down here. I'm not sure what you mean by network plugs coming through the electrical wiring.

So I have a laptop which I'm using to type to you which has built in wireless, and it functions ok, sometimes crazy spikes of lag but for the most part ok.

My PC is using this and its pretty much useless in terms of getting a stable connection. I'm concerned that its wireless reach is not strong enough to reach through the ceiling to where the router is.

Ideally I'd like to get my PC connected as I use it for most of my day to day work/play.

Ah, I see. I don't have any personal experience with this one, but it's well reviewed and TP-Link is generally an OK brand.

So the computer is performing amazing however my ping has been fluctuating and going up and down a lot not just in games but when I am browsing also. Any fix to this? I was thinking maybe it's because of the cheap wifi adapter I bought. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486612811&sr=8-3&keywords=nano+usb+wifi

TP-Link TL-WN725N Wireless N Nano USB Adapter, 150Mbps, Miniature Design, Plug in and Forget https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CvLSBb216SBRP

We use those ones at work. I carry one in my kit for back up.

There is an Amazon basics one that was less than that. I don't know about the quality.

If you use an internal one you can prevent yourself form installing another GPU, and in some cases (many microatx boards) you can't have a GPU plus any PCI-e 1x device. Get a USB one. They are easier to install, move around for better signal, and can go from pc to pc with no problems. I'd reccomend http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU or http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG for cheap ones. The second will have better signal.

two options - open up the laptop & make sure the wires for the antenna havent become loose/disconnected, and if so, reconnect them. if that doesnt resolve, then get something like https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU

I have a a Pro 3. Best advice I saw and took was to buy a low profile USB dongle and sacrifice your only USB slot. Haven't looked back.

​

Here is the one I bought. A $20 solution to get your ~$100 solution working isn't too bad, I think.

This is solely for 2.4g

TP-Link | N150 USB wireless WiFi network Adapter for PC with SoftAP Mode - Nano Size, Compatible with Windows XP/7/8/8.1/10 - Mac OS 10.6~10.13 - Linux Kernal 2.6.18~4.4.3 (TL-WN725N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WjQ7CbWCE4NBW

Could be that your NIC died or maybe it's a driver issue. Either way the simplest solution is to buy this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU if you need a quick fix since troubleshooting issues like these can take a very long time.

Just get a wireless USB adapter, only $10 and free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487886389&sr=1-5&keywords=USB+Wifi

This one TP-Link TL-WN725N 150Mbps Wireless N Nano USB Adapter (Black) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LdxDCb7J9GBQ1

I want to get a cheap usb Wi-Fi adapter to use while on vacation so I don't have to run an Ethernet cable through my relative's house. I'm looking for sub $20 on amazon. Would any of these support light multiplayer gaming? I'm showing my family VR games. Cheaper is better because this is probably the only time I'll use it.

OURLINK for $20

TP Link for $10

Wise Tiger for $13

What piece of hardware are you using that is WiFi capable? I doubt the motherboard has WiFi built into it. Once you find out what you are using for WiFi hardware, just google the model number and download the driver specific to your operating system your using. Or use the disc that came with the hardware.
If you dont have any WiFi capable hardware, you can purchase a cheap USB dongle to help get you by http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414948421&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+usb

Your selection of parts is perfectly acceptable but you should get a branded PSU. From that store the Corsair VS 450W for €39 is a decent choice. Or the 350W if those €3.5 extra matters. So you should choose a different case without a PSU after that.

For wifi dongle the selection from that store is stupidly expensive. €25 for the cheapest one? Even if my shitty country you have a decent selection of decent sub €10 usb dongles. Get one of off amazon.

You can use a PCIe adapter like this or this

or you can use a USB wireless adapter like this or this

You can buy an external wireless card. This is pretty common when your builtin wireless card stops functioning. If your current wireless card is the issue then a new one will resolve this issue. Here are some examples from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493679602&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+wireless

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1493679602&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+wireless

this one also works great..


https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=TP-LINK+TL-WN722N+v3+Network+Adapter&qid=1571102173&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-4

$8US for a USB wifi adapter.....

Yeah, last night I was able to find something like this laying around in my room. So I was able to get on the WiFi successfully!

I might end up purchasing one that can find stronger signals, thanks for all your help!!

Thanks to everyone who's been helping me with these internet posts today!

Another one!

So, i bought this TP-Link N150 Wireless Nano USB Adapter (TL-WN725N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8Rfvyb6X9RTYW

I get 40 ping in rocket league and usually around 20-60 in bf4, so the games play just fine. Most of the time. But according to speedtest.net i get around 2.0 download speed and around 3.0 upload speed with ping avg around 16-40. Isn't that really shit? The games play fine but downloading something from steam is a nightmare. Why is the dl. So low? According to amazon, the adapter is rated for 150.

In comparison, my wireless pcie card on my other pc gets around 80 dl, through ethernet 80dl as well, and my package from comcast is 75 down. I am using
http://www.linksys.com/us/support-product?pid=01t80000003K7iqAAC for my router.

There is no guarantee that the wifi card itself is why your wifi doesn't work. You would be better off getting a usb wifi adapter. Here is one that is just under 8 bucks.

Thanks for the help. I'm currently at home, but will try that when I get back to school. I found and installed LinSSID. Is there a certain number or range I should look for when I'm monitoring a network? My home network signal seems to be hovering around -10 to 10. I'll look for a manual for the program later to better understand the information.

Can you recommend a usb wireless adapter that would improve my computers ability to capture wifi signals? I have this one I tried at school: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU

Unfortunately, it doesn't help my problem at all and I'm willing to spend more money on a better one to solve my problems. Would something like https://www.thinkpenguin.com/gnu-linux/penguin-wireless-n-usb-adapter-w-external-antenna-gnu-linux-tpe-n150usbl help me?

Definitely!
I got this. I made absolutely sure it'd just work right out of the box, and apparently this one does the job nicely.

I recommend finding a wireless usb adapter, it's simpler to use imo

the one I could find currently is this

Alternatively, there's USB wireless dongles, but the disadvantage is that these take one usb port:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=usb+wireless+dongle&qid=1574205255&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-1#customerReviews

If you have PCI slots, these are great:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0713RRZMB/

Intel 802.11ac chip (at least it was when I purchased), regularly sustain 500+ Mbps connections (using Ruckus APs).

These are really nice USB ones as well:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/

Ralink driver if I remember right. They are Wireless N, but still generally good. Typically about 120 - 175 Mbps connections

I've also used these before if you have strong APs and don't need super fast speed:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/

Expect about 40-60 Mbps connections

I use coreelec and the N2, and while I use ethernet, my understanding is that coreelec supports several USB-Wifi adapters. This is a good thread on the topic:

https://discourse.coreelec.org/t/working-usb-wifi-ethernet-adapters-for-coreelec/548

For example, looks like this one would work:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU

https://imgur.com/gallery/D4pfc
This one worked out of the box for me

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-150Mbps-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU

this

It only supports 150mbps, but I use it on worse WiFi and it works great, just put it in a USB port and you can connect. There are probably versions that can take the full 200mbps out there.

5ghz wifi base station and set it to bridge mode connect it to the uni wifi and then ethernet cable into your pc. basically it becomes the wifi card but will work a lot better.

2.4ghz has a longer range for transmission receiving as its a lower frequency. Could use a 2.4ghz bridge as well might be better but im sure with enough signal 5ghz should be fine.

USB network cards usually don't have a very good range as they are small, a wifi base station has nice big aerials.

​

https://www.amazon.com.au/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=asc_df_B008IFXQFU/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341773398184&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=263816913391382260&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9069013&hvtargid=pla-309497953602&psc=1

​

​

vs's

​

https://www.netgear.com.au/home/products/networking/modem-routers/d1500.aspx

It could be the powerline adapter. Can you grab a cheap wifi adapter to test/hold you over until you get the powerline or ethernet figured out?

​

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1NM2Y9W094R1N&keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter&qid=1555450654&s=gateway&sprefix=tp+link+wifi%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-3

This one?

TP-Link TL-WN725N N150 USB wireless WiFi network Adapter for pc with SoftAP Mode - Nano Size, Compatible with Windows XP/7/8/8.1/10 - Mac OS 10.6~10.11 - Linux Kernal 2.6~3.16 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2hBbBb1BTK65Y

Here are a few options:

• 3-Port Charging OTG Host Cable Cord Adapter
  
  
• Multi-in-1 OTG Adapter Cable
  
  
• Micro USB 2.0 OTG Host 90 Degree Right Angled Adapter
  
  
  USB Sticks ----> List of Compatible USB Devices for USB Host Mod
  
  Also if you want to get Netplay: TP-Link TL-WN725N
  
  It's the recommended Wifi adapter.
  
  I have all these and they work great. Started out with the small one, but had to get more ports so I could add more controllers and wifi for netplay.
  
  Also, it's best to put Hakchi on the thumb drive itself. It keeps everything self-contained. When adding games use "export" instead of syncing. Make sure "linked" is checked.
  
  *Edit for link

Just wanted to update you. I recently purchased a usb wifi adapter and it worked. I was able to connect the surface to our network and get connectivity. Link below to what I purchased.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IFXQFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IFXQFU/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bwfp1_c_x_4_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=RABHC9GQ6V2B85CT8RMY&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=ad12c04a-b4e2-5b5b-8bfa-0b36d589ab14&pf_rd_i=13983791


Is that a good wifi adapter?

Some of those suck really bad, I would say get a good quality PCIE one or this.

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B008IFXQFU/

Ohhhh, everything makes more sense now lol.

I would suggest this for best performance, or this for cheaper/compact. Not sure how well these will work for live gaming, but they'll work just fine for web browsing and downloading games/programs.

Edit: as for your processor/hard drive choice, I would keep the G4600 and get a small SSD (80-120GB) if possible. That'll make a massive difference to boot times and shouldnt cost more than $50 or so.

Latest Clonezilla is using kernel 4.9.6, so in theory anything that's supported in that.

I've got a TP-Link Wireless N dongle that I know is supported in Linux without any extra work, but I'd need to check if Clonezilla itself supports it. I would imagine it would, but you never know.

EDIT: By "I know is supported" I mean I installed Antergos on a box back in January without using it, and when I booted up that box the other night with that adapter installed and the ethernet jack disconnected, it prompted me to choose a wireless network. No extra drivers needed.

Any little unit like this; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008IFXQFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491194658&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+wireless+network+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31uyNgF8t1L

TP-Link USB adapter worked flawlessly for me and everyone I recommended it to for $10. It's tiny and handles whatever. I put it on front of my computer for best signal.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IFXQFU/

I've had issues with few others in the past.

Toshiba might still have old drivers lurking on their site; in my experience laptop manufacturers don't particularly care to make these easy to find.

Failing that you could try getting a USB wifi adapter and use that instead of the onboard adapter.

I agree and totally understand your point of view, but in the event that wireless is preferred, do you think that this 150Mbps USB Adapter would be a "good enough" replacement for direct ethernet connection? (just want an opinion on wireless as a Plan B)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IFXQFU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Regarding the Wireless vs Wired perspective, is their really that much of a significant performance difference? (assuming wireless signal quality is at its highest) Or are the people who say Wired over Wireless talking theoretical? Just would like a real world opinion and experience answer.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008IFXQFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1426709490&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=tp+link+300+usb

Literally 10 bucks.


I don't know why you'd need it. I use it for my laptop whose WLAN card got fried.

I've tried and tried with this one too. My fix was to buy one of these.

Yes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IFXQFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one

I couldn't tell you for sure, I'm using this without any issues right now, however.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A31IXVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Im looking for something like this due to the nature of my mobo and build :(

Cheers u/alsenior, but I should've posted this one instead - the other ships from China :(

https://www.amazon.com/Bplus-7260-HMWG-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth-HMCPartner/dp/B00HJCBV64

I'm looking at wifi/Bluetooth cards.

QUESTION 1: Because numerous things inside a computer generate EM interference in the same range as wifi/BT, it appears that it's better to have a card with a separate antenna connected by a wire, like this (as opposed to antennas screwed directly onto the card, like this) This is so the antenna can be placed away from the tower to minimize EMI, thus minimizing connection drops and slow speeds.

Am I correct on this? Is there really that big of a difference in performance between the two approaches? My tower sits on the floor to the left of my (fairly small, wooden) desk, in case that makes a difference.


QUESTION 2: Heat sinks/passive cooling cannot possibly be necessary on a wifi/BT card, right? Do those cards ever reach temps high enough to reduce performance or lifespan?

QUESTION 3: Are there any notable advantages or disadvantages to using an M.2 card for wifi/BT instead of traditional PCIe?

Get a card that is listed as a Universal one. (Can't tell on your link because it looks like it is a bad link). This Intel Universal AC card for example.

Also, make sure to get one that is returnable, just in case. But one of the 'universal' ones should work fine.

To me it looks like you want the half size mini pci-e slot m2 type such as this. https://amzn.com/B00HJCBV64

Which is different from the B or M key ones they use for SSDs.

Not totally sure though -- I am not an expert in this area.

Edit: I looked closely at the slot for the wifi card on the board and compared it to the different m.2 types to guess which one was right.

Also, scratch that link to the card I sent, apparently some don't work on thinkpads according to the sellers, but I kinda doubt it. I'll find one that should work

Edit: Apparently, a lot of the mini PCIe cards don't like to work with ThinkPads because reasons. This is one of the few ones that work, however it doesn't have bluetooth.

Centrino 6300 seems to be the popular choice for your laptop, basing it on a year old thread on notebookreview forums. You can try posting on r/alienware to get a second opinion.
http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-n-6300AGN-Wirless-THINKPAD-572511-001/dp/B00HR2AUK4/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=51uiDTHDn7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1PR2AENFRCQCD3M6QS6S

This card is a newer model than the other 6300 Centrino listed. Don't know if newer is better, but the reviews and descriptions are very similar between the two. The reviews are also very favorable (some 1-star reviews are positive, but incorrect star rating) For $10, it's a small price to experiment with it. If you do buy it, remember to download (but not install yet) the drivers beforehand, and to uninstall your previous wireless drivers through Device Manager and Uninstall Programs in Control Panel.

Here is the fixed link: http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-n-6300AGN-Wirless-THINKPAD-572511-001/dp/B00HR2AUK4

Do you use wifi or ethernet?

Ethernet you're covered. Wifi you need something like https://www.amazon.com/EDUP-Wireless-External-OS10-6-10-12-Installation/dp/B00KV9TQXM/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484613609&sr=1-3&keywords=wifi+expansion+card

this

or


http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=TP-N881ND&c=CJ

this

Here's one, it has an antenna so theoretically you'll get better connection as opposed to a micro dongle.

I ordered this one.

Wifi Adapter Wireless N Adapter 300Mbps 2.4GHz Wifi Usb with High Gain External Antenna for Windows 10/8.1/8/7/XP/Vista/Mac OS X 10.6-10.13- Installation Fast, Just 3 Minutes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KV9TQXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FPGYBbRF6YS29

Will this fix my predicament with the laptop not being able to connect to my wifi?

No you don't

Yeah, getting a card is my next step if needed, but I'm hoping not to spend too much.

Here is the USB adapter I'm currently using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KV9TQXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I get a cheap card like this one (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN781ND/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480532133&sr=1-7&keywords=wireless+card), will it still get decent results? I don't want to throw down $60 for one of the higher end ones if I can avoid it.

It's what came on the disk with the adapter.

It's this device: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KV9TQXM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483906616&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+to+wifi&dpPl=1&dpID=31a-mSVM4kL&ref=plSrch

Amazon Link It dozen say anything about not working or working with 5G, all it says is works well with 2.4G routers

I bought this dongle for this weeks ago. When it works, it is great, but every time i reboot my computer it screws is all up. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KV9TQXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What adapter do you use?

Now, the WiFi won't work with the current card that's in it correct?

What's a good card that for sure works and is compatible? A guy in an iOS Jailbreaking Discord sent me this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP52BNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kRvtAbZ8813M7) but he only said it "should" work.

As I said before, the three I suggested are known to be supported by Mac OS. However, the DW1550 allows for Continuity/Handoff, should you need those features. A guide for that can be found here, though it may be quite difficult for newcomers (not to insult your intelligence).

Personally, I use the DW1510, which can be found here for a little under $11. I was very happy with the ease of use, and as soon as I put in the network password, it was good to go.

What laptop is it that you're using, out of curiosity? Do you know the model number? Hopefully, I could better help you if I knew.

Again, good luck!

EDIT: Clarity

The stock wifi cards that shipped with the T420s will not work with macOS.

You need to flash the modified BIOS that will bypass Lenovo's "whitelist" check and then install an alternate wifi card that is compatible.

An inexpensive wifi card that is compatible with macOS and will just work out of the box in the T420s without any configuration is the Dell DW1510. This is probably the most popular Mini PCIe hackintosh wifi card available. This card will also work fine under Windows or Linux.

This card works fantastic! Amazon.com link

I followed a guide on http://x220.mcdonnelltech.com/ to make my hackintosh. It solved any problems I had.

Thanks! Yeah, I swapped out the mini adapter on my Hackintosh workstation with this. Is there any way to find out if the motherboard allows the replacement of the adapter, and if the replacement will work with the motherboard?

I'm using High Sierra on my x220 right now. I flashed the BIOS to get the wifi whitelist and spent less than $10 on the wifi card.

I put 8gb of RAM in it because it performs better and I was trying to address some video artifacts. It might have helped, but I still get video artifacts sometimes (like a line across the screen). It's not that bad, just a little annoying. It isn't a hardware issue, it doesn't happen in Ubuntu.

The battery life is comparable to Ubuntu and it's a new 9-cell, so it's pretty good. CoconutBattery on OSX doesn't seem to report the right number of cycles, though.

The screen brightness is a bit of an issue for me. I can't figure out how to get it to step down as dim as other OSes do. It will go from about 30% brightness to off. I want those steps in there for using it in a dark room.

iMessage is a bit of a pain to get working. I think I got lucky to find a generated serial number that worked but was invalid.

I followed this to do the install and I think this to get iMessage working. But Clover had changed a bit so I don't think that guide is perfect anymore.

Overall I like it. I have a MacBook Pro for work and the gestures on the trackpad are really good. On the ThinkPad the gestures don't always work and honestly I just turn off the trackpad most of the time (PrtSc is the shortcut!) and just use the trackpoint.

It's a fun project, in any case!

You can buy the DW1510.
You can find it on chinese Websites or on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LP52BNI/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mcdotechserv-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00LP52BNI&linkId=af7dde72b8c3f9f87a34dd27b4125ea7

It depends on which model you get. For PCIe it's pretty straightforward and are usually included - see this for an example.

If you need mini-PCIe, then you need four U.FL to RP-SMA adapters and four antennas (like this 2-pack)

Hey man - that wifi card will work, but - because it's designed for use in actual Apple machines - it's got a different connector. You'll have to use an adapter like this to get it to fit in your mini pci slot.

I have one running via an adapter in my PCIe x1 slot right now - great card. Also - if you need the Windows drivers for it, send me a PM (or take a look at Brigadier).

Just get T9E-Archer which use bcm4360, works oob plus includes ac standard. Handoff and Continuity features will be working with gbu521

As an example:

https://www.amazon.com/Broadcom-Bcm94360cs-Bcm94360csax-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B00PDN4H9E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474553802&sr=8-1&keywords=bcm4360

1. Unless you 've replaced the combo Wifi/BT card in your EliteDesk, that card won't work. Apple has never used Intel-based Wifi/BT cards and they are not supported. This is why your wifi doesn't work. Go buy a supported wifi card found here and get this adapter card. to find the M.2 card in your wifi slot. For full Continuity/Handoff support, you really need a supported Broadcom card. You can find a list of supported cards here.
   
2. Be forewarned, you are likely get some hate due to mentioning Multibeast in public. All tools can certainly have their use cases, but the conventional wisdom is vanilla installs are much better than using the Unibeast/Multibeast methods due to the fact that Unibeast/Multibeast place updated files within the MacOS filesystem, whereas Vanilla install methods keep all of the driver changes contained within the UEFI partition. The implication is Apple updates can easily break your machine if you are changing files inside of MacOS, but it is generally far safer to keep your changes in the UEFI partition because Apple leaves that partition alone.
   
3. Your EliteDesk 800G3 is very similar to my EliteBook 840 G3 laptop, as both are based on the same architecture, same generation and similar motherboard. You can likely get pretty far following Rehabman's guide for the Probook/Elitebook Mojave install. See this thread and this guide.

I bought a card from Amazon and installed it into my 2012 rmbp. Auto unlock now works. I will say that the feature will occasionally fail to work and I will have to enter my password. This happens maybe 1 out of 10 times? I've read that it happens to natively supported macs as well. This is the card I bought - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDN4H9E/
The card was recognized immediately, internet recovery works fine as well.

(I'm using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDN4H9E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I'll give it a shot, just afraid I might've just damaged the card.

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PDN4H9E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hope you are using an adaptor? seeing I think that is proprietary Apple connector?!?!

Oh are you talking about lag with a Bluetooth mouse? That's a problem with the Wifi card causing interference with Bluetooth on 2.4GHz networks. The only resolution is to replace the wifi card. I got an Intel 8260 for $30: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485122666&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+8260

> 7265


I don't know what that is I was referring to the XPS 13 9350 Developer Edition


I have the Intel 8260 it will work in the 9350 as well.

Try replacing the killer wifi module in your laptop. I've heard the Killer chips have shoddy drivers. https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE is a common recommendation

I just bought an 8260 as a replacement (8265 and Killer 1535 have MU-MIMO support which I have no use for). Took me 10 minutes to do it myself.

Amazon Link

My 512GB 950 Pro (NVMe) is great, but so is the 1 TB 850 EVO (SATA) that I use as an external backup drive. SATA-based SSDs are no slouch; they're still way faster than magnetic hard drives. Just get a good M.2 SATA drive for a reasonable price, and then when you do eventually get a new machine, NVMe drives will be cheaper and just one of several other improvements you'll get by that time (for example, USB-C/Thunderbolt 3, 4K hardware acceleration). Just because a newer technology exists doesn't mean your old system is any less useful.

When the 9350 came out in October 2015, NVMe was a new, cutting edge storage technology that had just gotten out of the data center and into the consumer market.

My 9350 is not without its own set of setbacks. When I bought my computer, I wanted one with 1080p (better battery life, and matte), 16GB of RAM, and Intel Iris (better integrated graphics), but Dell didn't sell such XPS 13 configurations in the US. The only way to get 16GB of RAM or Intel Iris was to also get a QHD+ touchscreen, which is glossy and has significantly less battery life. Also, just last night I found out that the 9350's USB-C / Thunderbolt 3 controller is a low power version that can only do 16 Gbps for data (Thunderbolt 2 speed), not the full 32 Gbps data speed that Thunderbolt 3 is capable of. And because I have Skylake and not Kaby Lake, I can't watch 4K Netflix or 4K Blu-ray (the new DRM requires Kaby Lake or newer). There are always going to be limitations on older hardware, but eventually you'll get a new system that will have those benefits.

Just upgrade the SSD if it would offer a meaningful benefit (in terms of capacity, or in terms of eeking out a meaningful amount of more speed from SATA 3). You can also upgrade your WiFi/Bluetooth module for better range/speed and MU-MIMO (enables MU-MIMO compatible access points to talk to multiple devices at once, instead of rapidly switching between each device like WiFi has traditionally worked). The Intel 8265 does that and is available on NewEgg. There's also the older 8260 which is very similar but lacks MU-MIMO (which your router may not support anyway). Or you could think about other ways to improve your overall computer setup, including things like a better computer chair. Good back support makes a much more significant quality of life improvement than NVMe vs SATA, and doesn't get outdated over time.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE
https://m.newegg.com/product/index?itemnumber=9SIA2F85A99807

The 8260 is only 25 bucks on amazon, not a huge investment and is probably what i will end up doing: https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE/

The upside is the xps 15 is easy to work on, so replacing it should be a snap.

Just say fuck it. As soon as there is a WiFi problem grab one of these

I believe most m.2 wifi cards will work in that slot. Most of them are compatible with both E and A-key m.2 slots.
For example https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488246464&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+8260 (it shows both E and A key holes)

I can't guarantee this will work (especially because i have no idea how you would mount the antennas connectors without modding the I/O panel or using a pci-e expansion slot thing which would require pretty long antenna cables), or that it will recognize the wireless adapter at all. But it should at least fit in the slot.

I would definitely like to use this for a wifi/bt m.2, because I'm pretty sure this m.2 slot is running off SATA controller, meaning I wont need to use up pci-e lanes for wifi/bt. (SATA allows up to 6.0Gbps, which is faster than 99.9% of peoples internet connections. its more than enough for wifi and BT simultaneously). I'm not fond of the usb dongle wifi/bt adapters, they are often less reliable in my experience.

In the latest desktop PC I built for myself, I used this (m2 wifi adapter). they are usually used for laptops.

I'm looking into getting [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197W86IE/). There was one review saying it worked under Linux out of the box.

Does a 8260 work?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

It's not sold anymore, or the exact model isn't. They have a new updated model.. https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE

Intel 8260
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Network-Generation-802-11ac-Bluetooth/dp/B0197W86IE

After reading threads and some blog posts I decided to also pre-order an Intel wifi card to replace the out of the box Broadcom.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197W86IE/

Edit: link

It would repeatedly drop connections while being in the same room as my router. I swapped out the standard Killer Wifi card with this beauty and haven't had a single issue since.

You could use a usb adapter such as ....

TRENDnet AC1900 High Power Dual Band Wireless USB Adapter, Increase Extend WiFi Wireless Coverage, High Gain Antennas, Stream 4K HD Video, USB 3.0 to USB Type A, Windows/Mac OS Compatible,TEW-809UB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EOQ61KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5KpoDb432QYPT

Assuming you can't run a cable to your router, these are the most powerful USB wifi units I could find:

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Nighthawk-AC1900-Adapter-A7000-10000S/dp/B073JHHNJ9/

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-USB-AC68-Dual-Band-Adapter-Included/dp/B01I7QFR10/

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-AC1900-Wireless-Adapter-TEW-809UB/dp/B01EOQ61KI/

Honestly, I'd send it back and get a better USB adapter. I bought this adapter, and it's caused me no issues so far. I'm sure other cheaper ones are out there though.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC88-AC3100-802-11AC-Adapter/dp/B01H9QMOMY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=13U90MCSUGGGD&keywords=asus+pcie+wifi+card&qid=1566063468&s=gateway&sprefix=asus+pcie%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-3

Just get one of these and plug into your desktop. Don't need a router.

Do you have a router that supports MU-MIMO technology?

If so, this one will work well:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC88-AC3100-802-11AC-Adapter/dp/B01H9QMOMY/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=pcie+wifi+3x3&qid=1565575856&s=electronics&sr=1-7

That's a good unit, this or this are a bit nicer. Have you considered a powerline adapter instead of wifi?

Is this good?: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC88-AC3100-802-11AC-Adapter/dp/B01H9QMOMY
Thank you!

Maybe not - I pulled up the manual from the manufactures website, and couldn't find ad-hoc on it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

A great Wireless-N Wi-fi card is the TP-Link TL-WN881ND for under $20.

If you need bluetooth as well as a basic Wireless-AC (AC1200), then there's an Asus PCE-AC55BT that has you covered.

For higher performing 802.11ac with beamforming, an affordable option is the TP-Link Archer T9E AC1900 card. For top of the line, you should look at the AC3100 capable Asus PCE-AC88 card.

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-Z270G-GAMING/

will this mobo work with

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

With the small USB adapters you often have undesirable location issues with the antennas being right smack next to a huge metal box. that is about the worst place for wifi devices. Even PCIe devices with external antennas are somewhat susceptible to that.

The PCE-AC68/88 being a little different, since the radio is cabled to a remote antenna.

minimum should be 2x2 AC1200, single antenna devices tend to have pretty bad performance.

Asus makes a few great adapters.


PCE-AC56


PCE-AC68


PCE-AC88

Same with tp-link

Archer T6E

Archer T9E

What does this one use? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY

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I do have devices that support 4x MiMo yes. Two computers in particular.

As to beamforming, I'm not an expert on radio signals and engineering, however enabling it client-side has shown a dramatic increase with the speeds I get on a computer located furthest away from the AP. Perhaps this is just a client-side benefit?
This is what that client machine is using to connect: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/

Speed tests showed a jump of 100% toggling it on/off.

The problem I have with the multiple APs is to be effective and IMO worth much more than say a tri-band router they would have to be placed in different parts of the house which would require running some wiring, drilling holes, etc and at that point I might as well just run wiring to every room. To be clear I agree multiple APs would work better, but it isn't something I can reasonably do. I have looked into wireless bridging but from what I can tell outside of external antennas and purpose-built enterprise equipment it works like crap.

Thanks for the info on the Ubiquiti APs.

I'd say they're probably about the same thing ... the tp-link is advertising some smart-home fluff like alexa compatibility and IFTTT compatibility. How many devices are you going to be running off of it ... these are a bit overkill for most situations ?

Here's two expamples of the type of wifi adapter you'll probably want if you do decide to go with one of these routers:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B01H9QMOMY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502291134&sr=1-3&keywords=wifi%2Badapter%2Bpcie&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-PCI-Express-Beamforming-Archer-T9E/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502291113&sr=1-2&keywords=wifi+adapter+pcie

Do you think that will outperform this one?

Extreme casual
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uHuvybHTDKRNX

Always go with an external antenna on a wire, so you can get the antennas up above your desk, for better line-of-sight.

The Asus PCE-AC88 looks like the most capable offering I can find. 4x4 MIMO is compelling for future-proofing.

The slightly less capable, but also lower-cost Asus PCE-AC68 looks like good hardware as well.

I wish they were Intel-based WiFI, and not Broadcom. But Broadcom drivers have gotten better these past few years.


I'd re-ask this question in both /r/wireless and /r/homenetworking before you spend $100.

> My router is downstairs and across the house, so direct ethernet is not an option.

Wifi mostly likely is not an option either - at least not with JUST a WiFi card in the PC..

802.11 2.4Ghz my reach but that frequency band is so over saturated these day you will be lucky to minimal speeds and high latency on it..
and 802.11 AC 5GHz band probably will not have enough signal strength to reach..

So your entire WiFi configuration comes into play..

The Gateway that is used from your ISP to broadcast the WiFi signal... How far the device that wants WiFi is from that Gateway.. How much OTHER Wifi Signal (from all your neighbors) is clogging up the airways.. What building / appliance / stuff is between the far reaching device and the Gateway..

To combat these issues Mesh WiFi networks are being implemented more and more - So I would look into those..

https://www.pcmag.com/roundup/350795/the-best-wi-fi-mesh-network-systems

Ethernet over Powerline is also an option, but due to it being across the house they will not be on the same circuits and that adds some complication to the system..

Ethernet over powerline basically transmits a signal over your power lines to modules on either end.. Home wiring / power panels and appliances on the lines can effect the quality of the Ethernet of powerline signal..

These solutions are one of those try it and see if it works and works well in your situation.. They can either work GREAT or be a complete nightmare,

If you get a cheap set of adapters that were made a while ago with older EOP technology it likely will not work - They keep refining the process..

https://www.lifewire.com/best-powerline-network-adapters-4141215

With all that out of the way..

If your WiFi solution is decent then the Maximus X Hero(wifi-ac) will be adequate..

If it is not or you need faster transfers with a WiFi gateway that supports Multi-User MiMo Multiple in Multiple outs.. Which would aggregate more than one WiFi data streams..

You can get a card like this: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

If the Ethernet over powerline works out then your Built in Ethernet would work..

So how do you know if your WiFi as it sits will even reach?

Use your smartphone as a WiFi signal detector..

Here are some Android APPS - if you only have Apple your on your own lol..

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer


https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pzolee.wifiinfo

I would download them all and try them out and learn how the WiFi signals in your area are and what the traffic looks like..

Then go up to where the PC would be check the signal strength and traffic..

While up there run a Speetest

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.zwanoo.android.speedtest

and see what kind of speeds you get...

you can take your phone around to various areas to see how this changes..

Oh and good luck WiFi is all witchcraft and magic so it is not an exact science (unless you have the knowledge and equipment for proper evaluation)

With these simple tools you can gain a better understanding of your WiFi and what works and what does not..

Out of curiosity, you talked about the 4x4 and the 2x2 is there any benefit to have a 4x4 adapter on a two 2x2 network? I do own a single 4x4 and it is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H9QMOMY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1.

Edit

I know there is an ethernet cable wired from the room where the modem is to the wall and I believe it goes back to a box in the laundry room, there is a second ethernet cable in there that I believe goes to the exact opposite corner of the house. I am sure if I were to get some kind of ethernet coupler that could give me the cable to the other end of the house.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016EWKQAQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H9QMOMY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

even with these?

I personally just got this one for $35 US as a warehouse deal and it works amazing. It has the same speed as wired with almost the same ping. And it has better speed/ping than using a powerline adapter. Although this is using my old router's antanaes. Not sure how it performs with the stock ones. Probably almost exactly the same.

As far as what you actually need/want I would assume something like this would probably suit you just fine and would likely work just as well. Or this one which may get better performance.

Edit: Put in Amazon.ca link for first one

I actually bought a wifi card too because I'm currently too far to run an ethernet cable (working on it).
I believe it connects to one of the PCI-E slots on your MOBO.
I bought this wifi card and will follow this video when installing it.
There are some wifi adapters that connect through USB, though. I'm currently using this one on my laptop while I wait for the final parts of my build to come in. I needed it to connect to 5G networks because my ASUS K55N is too old.xD

Just a PSA for people:

I have had a lot of success with the cheap, Chinese-branded, goofy-looking wifi-adapters also sold on Amazon.

This one, for example, is $20: https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-600Mbps-Wireless-Antenna-Support/dp/B01M0Q51UI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511807499&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+adapter

You're going to want one with the antenna on it (I bought one of this tiny USB ones as well and it doesn't work well at all).

I have played games using these wifi adapters and it works fine even another floor of the house.

The overclock on the cpu is only going to slightly improve performance, so it's not necessary if you don't feel comfortable overclocking.

As for the psu, this one should work fine for $90, but it does have a slightly lower wattage thought it should still be fine for your build: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/6Px9TW/rosewill-power-supply-photon550

As for the cpu, just the stock cooler should suit you fine, even if you do overclock it slightly. The 3rd gen ryzen chips are already pushed pretty hard, so there's no point getting a better cooler if you aren't going to be able to do an overclock large enough to justify it.

Edit: As for X470, I'd recommend this $170 board if you don't need WiFi: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/4D7v6h/msi-x470-gaming-plus-atx-am4-motherboard-x470-gaming-plus

And if you need it I'd go for this one for $214: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zytQzy/gigabyte-x470-aorus-gaming-5-wifi-atx-am4-motherboard-x470-aorus-gaming-5-wifi or (a more money efficient option) use a cheap WiFi antenna off of Amazon like this: https://www.amazon.ca/WISE-TIGER-Adapter-600Mbps-Wireless/dp/B01M0Q51UI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2ULZAU1R517AR&keywords=wifi+antenna+for+pc&qid=1564007425&s=gateway&sprefix=wifi+ante%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3

I built my computer without a wifi adapter because I had direct access to a router. Since then I've moved to a house with shared wifi and I no longer have direct access, so I've been using phones or other devices on wifi and tethering them to the PC. This works ok for downloads and streaming but when i try playing online games like Rocket League I experience low ping (30-50ms) but still a lot of lag due to what I assume is packet loss.

Is the best option for me to buy a wifi adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-600Mbps-Wireless-Antenna-Support/dp/B01M0Q51UI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1493994588&sr=1-1

Or to buy a card along the lines of this:
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1493994588&sr=1-9

I haven't done any research into the products themselves im more curious if the shortcut of simply buying a USB adapter will address my issues.

How old is your laptop? What version of Microsoft are you on (Windows 7, Windows 8, Windows 10)?

Because you are the only one affected it may be a circumstance where your laptop operating system or the Wifi card (internal Wifi antenna) are straight up malfunctioning.

What happens when you try to connect? Does it say that your connection failed? Does it say that you are connected but with no internet?

After trying to connect you can try to right click on the Wifi status in the bottom right of your task bar and select "Troubleshoot Problems". This wizard is pretty straight forward and will do a software reset of your Wifi Card if it thinks that there is a problem. If the problem persists you can get an external Wifi card for rather cheap[Example].

As for restarting your router, a power cycle should not affect the settings that were changed - think about what happens if the power goes out for example, everything comes back on like normal when the power does. He maybe confused by the terms the support rep used or maybe the rep thought your dad meant to hard reset the modem by the button on the back (most have them but I can't say for certain about your unit)(ALSO, do not touch this button).

Let me know if you have questions or if you try any of the things I suggested; I would be interested to know what works!

https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-600Mbps-Wireless-Antenna-Support/dp/B01M0Q51UI?th=1&psc=1

Will this do?

oops I added two by accident. Will this adapter work?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M0Q51UI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1CG9BNSUV962M&psc=1

Because it has no brand or idk what brand it is.

And another question: will I need to add more case fans? or the provided ones are ok from the case.

And how good is the mother board at only 60$, will it allow future graphic card upgrades?

yes, it is a powered USB hub, was worried that with the wifi, IR adapter and a USB stick it was too much power for the Pi, I bought it from amazon canada

Install a wireless card, you mean? Like this.

Get your self something like this for playing with Kali.

Sorry, I meant to say Usb https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01M0Q51UI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526525158&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wifi+adapter&psc=1

Oh I missed that detail. That's very strange - not sure how I'd proceed if the dongle works. In this case, maybe don't cheap out on the dongle and get something that has antennas and sits away from the case a bit. Something like this, maybe.

Wireless USB WiFi Adapter AC 600Mbps Dual Band 2.4G/150Mbps+5.8G/433Mbps WiFi Dongle with High-gain Antenna Complies with 802.11 b/g/n/ac Standard Supports Windows & Mac OS X System (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759J2V74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p-8VAbEYJNE1W

I use this one, works great. Gets 100-120mbps up and down on 5GHz without issues from across the house. Comes with a CD for drivers.

I bought this one to use for my Xbox One controller and Wiimote and it works great

https://www.amazon.ca/Avantree-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer-Keyboard/dp/B076GY91CM

Yup! exactly. Here's the exact adapter I'm using

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GY91CM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Thunderbolt-Gigabit-Ethernet-Included/dp/B07N327RJ2

if I need it for 3 nodes it would be close to 750 bucks. (this is assuming I wanted to try to keep the small form factor and not just buy regular PCI-e cards).

Then just get a Sonnet, which uses Intel. I wouldn't waste my time with ANYTHING QNAP

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N327RJ2/

Internal: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254319040664

Good External: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-desktop-10-9-10-14-Archer-T2U/dp/B07P5PRK7J/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=usb+3.0+wifi+adapter&qid=1566940368&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+3.0+wifi+&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNDFNQzVERlJCMTBXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjA4NDcwQzJRSjVKVDIwSEFPJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMzAzMzYySk83SDhOQUtUWlg1JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

External I have: https://www.newegg.ca/p/0XM-000R-00044?item=9SIAKH39FJ3916&source=googleshopping&nm_mc=knc-googleadwordscamkpl-mobile&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwordscamkpl-mobile-_-pla-amoy-_-network+-+wireless+adapters-_-9SIAKH39FJ3916&gclid=CjwKCAjwqZPrBRBnEiwAmNJsNrY3RDZmvmoblCm9S0kDAtghRBeVZGXXhug5LdZNMBF4JbCP4L1ePhoCBZAQAvD_BwE

Might not be possible due to your distance from the Access Point. 5.0 has the possibility to give you faster speeds. But 5 doesn't have the distance that 2.4 does.

If all you have is USB for wireless, find something with an external https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-desktop-10-9-10-14-Archer-T2U/dp/B07P5PRK7J/ref=sr_1_4?crid=CC3OVWFMGC2E&keywords=wireless+usb+antenna+for+pc&qid=1566377598&s=gateway&sprefix=wireless+usb+antenn%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-4 antenna on it. almost 5,00 people like this one.

I was about to order the WiFi card you linked but I'm a little worried it wont work on the ubuntu 4.14 kernel. According to this Intel page it seems to require a 5.1+ kernel. If so is there an older card you recommend? I don't care about connection speed as the networks I connect to are old and slow anyways.

​

edit: perhaps this card? According the Intel page it works on 4.14+ kernels. I don't know if "no vpro" is a problem as my system has a vPro inside sticker.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-Ac-9260-2230-Gigabit/dp/B079QH5KW1/

edit2: I went ahead and ordered the Intel AC 9260. Can always order something else too if it doesn't work.

You can upgrade the WiFi module to the latest WiFi 6 model for $19 so it's not a big differentiator.

This is not the exact card I got, but I'm sure this will work for you.

Important!!!: Just know that you need to have wired internet access after you install it, so you can go into control panel hardware settings and update the driver. Wireless is completely off line until the driver update!

Like this M.2/NGFF?

https://www.amazon.com/AX200NGW-MU-MIMO-Wireless-Bluetooth-Support/dp/B07SH6GV5S

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33010619009.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.260411d1FmrxpX&algo_pvid=0114fa76-ed54-4daf-af1f-bb6f6bf28a5e&algo_expid=0114fa76-ed54-4daf-af1f-bb6f6bf28a5e-4&btsid=f145e6f6-27d2-4896-ba2a-a8d3dc87f9c5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_52

For the AX201 card, I read that it requires an Intel chip:https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000054819/network-and-i-o/wireless-networking.html

>The main difference between the two is that the Intel® Wi-Fi 6 AX201 is a CRF module that uses the Intel proprietary interface, and thus can only be used with select Intel chipsets and platforms.

On Amazon for both AX200 and 201 cards it states:https://www.amazon.com/UFON-802-11ax-Adapter-Network-Wireless/dp/B07SH6GV5S?th=1

>★【Applicability】: The wifi 6 adapter can be used in Laptops with an M.2 connector standard Key A or E (Not for Key M and B,Key M and B is used in SSD) socket or desktop with an M.2 slot printed with "WiFi" logo. The Driver support Win10 64bit/ Google Chrome OS/ Linux. DO NOT use on systems with BIOS lock(example: older Lenovo). Use only on Intel based systems that are runing Win10 64bit.

The Intel AX200NGW is probably the best wifi card available if you do need to get one.

Smh im a dumbass

Card- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SH6GV5S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Cables- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GMBUS8O?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

The case is shit and will get destroyed easily and the card will take up pcie lanes TP-Link TL-WN725N N150 USB wireless WiFi network Adapter for pc with SoftAP Mode - Nano Size, Compatible with Windows XP/7/8/8.1/10 - Mac OS 10.6~10.11 - Linux Kernal 2.6~3.16 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TGtwCbBM996AF

The Intel 8260 is actually way cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE and still a few bucks cheaper after adding one of this PCIe mini to PCIe adaptor (with antena):https://www.amazon.com/Allytech-Wireless-Network-Ethernet-Converter/dp/B00SMLYKI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503694854&sr=8-3&keywords=Mini-PCIe+to+PCIe+Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Wireless-Converter-wireless-included/dp/B0144KJJ7Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503694854&sr=8-5&keywords=Mini-PCIe+to+PCIe+Adapter

Just get a USB wireless adapter.

EDIT: Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395175076&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+wireless+network+adaptor

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU

$10 and it works with Windows, Mac, and Linux.