Best laptop replacement parts according to redditors

We found 336 Reddit comments discussing the best laptop replacement parts. We ranked the 209 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Laptop Computer Replacement Parts:

u/e-racer · 20 pointsr/pcmasterrace

And the keyboard

u/toothball · 15 pointsr/educationalgifs

Pretty sure thats like all of the reviews on products such as these keyboards

u/SirDerpalott · 15 pointsr/CR10

It honestly depends on your budget, how much are you willing to spend?

Here is a great list of prep and upgrades you can do to bring success to your prints:

-Get Vibration Dampners: I can not express how much joy these things have brought many users. The make your machine quiet and greatly decrease ringing in your prints since they ABSORB the vibration coming from your stepper motors. You really only need Two of these for the X and Y axis however you can get another two for the Z-axis drives if you plan on doing a lot of z-hopping.

-BUY FILAMENT IN ADVANCE: get some PLA/ABS/PETG or whatever you want to try printing with. The filament you get with the printer for the most part is garbage HOWEVER I recommend dialing in those settings first then throwing on some nice filament, it'll feel soooo nice. Some commonly accepted/appreciated brands are: eSun PLA+, Hatchbox, Solutech and more

-Get a PEI sheet: Seems like you mentioned this in your post but PEI sheets eliminate the use of gluesticks/tape/hairspray and provide excelent adhesion while making it easy to remove the part after it's cool. This things like to be hot though so increase your bed temp a little at first

-Buy New Fans: The stock hotend/power unit fans are Loud, Noisy and Inefficient. I recommend getting 1 new conrol box fan, 1 new hot end fan and 1 new part blower fan.
You will need 1 40mm fan, 1 50mm fan and a Blower fan or another 40/50mm fan depending on if you print a new hot end mount like a fang.

-Tighten every screw on the printer: You would be surprised how many screws initially are lose either from prior testing or such. Also make sure to test your belt tensions on your printer whne you get it. You want everything tight BUT NOT TOO TIGHT. Give it a snug fit then let it be. Also make sure your belts are 'pluckable' like a guitar string but not tought

-Get some bearings: You may want to get a few ball bearings for when you print out a new filament holder, the stock filament holder is terrible

-Buy some fasteners: M3 bolts and nuts are commonly used on the CR-10S having spares or additional fasteners for adding on parts/printed components to your printer is awesome to have on hand

-Replace the Hotend: This can get a bit frustrating but it can be worth it. If you want you can replace the hotend with something like a volcano or an all metal hot end to print at higher temperatures. With this you can also add on autoleveling if you have the correct mount printed

-Octoprint: I am not very familiar with octoprint since I don't use it myself however I know it can run on a CR-10S. If you want look into how to install octoprint on stock firmware, I know it's pretty easy to use a raspberrypi to remote into your printer as well using octoprint.

-Squash Feet: Replacing your stock machine 'feet' with squash balls or squishy gold balls can also help absorb vibrations from your machine to your table or where it is located. This helps a bit with part quality but it's mostly to reduce the noise carried through your furniture.

-Solder on connectors: If you want you can get some pin connectors to make your fans/electronics easy to switch out depending on your material you are printing, maybe you need a strong part fan or maybe you need a weaker one. It is easy to swap out if it's using a 4pin connector.

-Make an Enclosure: What could be nicer for your printer than a stable environment. Making an enclosure for your printer can help if you live in a rough climate area or if you want to reduce the noise as well.

-Get some Handtools: I'm not sure if you have any or not but some great tools to have are a screwdriver, hexwrenches and a soldering iron depending on how much work you want to be doing on your printer.

For convenience I've added some of the parts mentioned via an Amazon link for prices. I'm not saying buy these things exactly they are just a starting point for reference:

Nima Vibration Dampners:https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Rubber-Vibration-Dampers-Printer/dp/B073FRZTDX/

40mm Fan (Noctua Brand): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-FLX-premium-quality-quiet/dp/B072JK9GX6/

Blower Fan (Part Fans):https://www.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-Humidifier-Aromatherapy-Appliances-Replacement/dp/B071WMHNG5/

PEI Sheet/Printer Surface:https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Printer-Surface-Creality-300x300mm/dp/B07543KHCT/

Squash Feet: https://www.amazon.com/PrideSports-Practice-Balls-Count-Yellow/dp/B00466W9X0/

M3 Bolts/Nuts:https://www.amazon.com/280Pcs-Grade12-9-Socket-Assortment-Storage/dp/B0742DDLQ1/

Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint: https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASPBERRYPI3-MODB-1GB-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92/

Ball Bearings: https://www.amazon.com/625ZZ-Shielded-Groove-Precision-Bearings/dp/B01LWMT95S/

Hope this helps, have fun tinkering!

u/jdevalerie · 12 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Wait, you're telling me that ridiculous keyboard on Amazon has a mouse that goes with it???

u/phatbrasil · 7 pointsr/hardware

that figure may not be factual.

edit: as it turns out, I was wrong

u/Bcron · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I know he answered already but I just wanna add, check out prices for an IBM Model M, you ever see one of these inconspicuous looking pieces of vintage "probably garbage", it's really worth more than a brand new Corsair K95 to the right buyer.

u/Angry_Homer · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/minux151 · 5 pointsr/3DS

I did, and I didn't like it much (not to mention it didn't close right). I instead got this.

u/oldcrow · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Here is my CR-10S.

I added the Petsfang fan fang. Added this fan to the fang.

I added these Z-Axis braces. Added these LEDs to the Z-Braces.

I'm printing on a mirror tile with a sheet of PEI bonded to it.

Last week I added the TH3D EZABL and have been encouraged by the results. It creates a Z-offset map of the build plate before every print. I can see the Z-steppers move during X-Y moves so I can tell it's working. Manual bed-leveling was working OK for smaller prints, but I could never get all 4 corners to agree with the center height. I suspect my aluminum bed plate is shaped like a Pringles chip.
I really like the Marlin Firmware over the OEM version. I don't mind not having auto-resume since I plugged my printer into a UPS system.

Right now my printer is about 20 hours into a 60-hour print of a T-Rex skull. I've been really happy with this printer! It was my first and I've been having a ball with it.

u/wallyTHEgecko · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

My Mini did that all the time. It's a problem with heat creep. It's getting too warm too high up which softens the plastic, allowing it to curl around. My Mini has been a workhorse for nearly a year and I think it's mostly a very solid machine, but the stock cooling setup sucks. A single 30mm fan for heatsink and layer/part cooling just doesn't cut it.

Easiest solution is to upgrade the fan. Even sticking something like a 40x10mm fan onto the original shroud with an adapter will help a little. A 50x15mm blower will do even better (they just move so much more air). Snip/strip the wire for the original fan, do the same for the new fan, then twist red to red, black to black and put some insulation on it. Doing that would fix the heat creep and also improve overall print quality since you can cool the extruded material better too.

Other solution would be to swap the hotend. Something like an E3D V6 or a decent clone will improve print quality, allow for a wider variety of materials and also not suffer from that problem since they're just designed better. Swapping hotends sounds really invasive, but it's actually pretty darn simple. Print a 2-in-1 fan duct and put one of those bigger fans on it and you'll practically never have that problem again.

u/BloodyKitten · 3 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

The charging port on most laptops is a cabled port, which means tiny plug that mounts to the side, and plugs into the board. It is one of the most commonly broken items, and made to be easily replaceable.

Shopping around, you can usually buy replacements for most still-manufactured laptops for about $10, if it's out of production, maybe $30. For good measure, and just in case, you may need the DC jack bracket as well (which holds it in place) and you can find for $1-$5.

If you can provide a brand and model, I can find you exact parts and steps.

Not counting opening the case up, which can be anywhere from 2 to 20 screws, the DC jack itself is usually held in place by 1 screw.

Repair normally takes about 5 minutes if you know what you're doing (even watching a youtube how to works), or 30 if you know computers a little bit and have to guess your way through.

If you have no idea what you're doing, and don't want to watch a how to, and it's a Dell laptop, you can call support, pay for parts, and pay for an onsite technician to come out and do the repair for less than $250.. even out of warranty. I don't know prices for other manufacturers' service calls. Most of the cost in this is the onsite tech.

To be full and complete here, on a very few new motherboards, CPU and RAM are built onto the board in a way they cannot be removed (think like macbook air... the extemely-ultra-thins). Since she's asking $600, it's likely not one of these, motherboards are usually more than that for these types, on board on one of these you're also replacing RAM and CPU, so it can get pricey. If she's asking $600 for a replacement, odds of it being this type AND not cabled are very very small.

EDIT: TLDR: If it's an in production laptop, repair parts will cost about $10-$15 shipped, and if it's old enough to be out of production, then generally about $35 shipped. Once parts are in hand, it'll take 5 to 30 minutes to fix. Even hiring a professional onsite tech to come to her place and fix it is cheaper than replacement. There's a few outliers, but likelyhood of outlier is small.

Source: Dell badged technician who does this sort of thing as a side project for a little extra cash myself for other brands as well.

EDIT2: If it's in warranty at Dell then it's significantly cheaper. If it's got ProSupport, then it's free to repair, with onsite tech. If you want to see if this is a possible avenue, then ask your friend for the laptop's service tag (all dell machines have them), which should be 7 alpha-numeric characters. With that, head to support.dell.com and put in the service tag, then on the service tag's page, click on the warranty information. Active warranties will be displayed there. With warranty, its next to nothing to repair, and she's scamming you.

EDIT3: If you're near central FL, we can arrange something if you need an onsite tech to handle this for cheaper.

u/hackpadthink · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

My original post here (accidentially deleted) for reference

I disagree and think you need "ThinkPad Super Low Profile TrackPoint Cap Set (4XH0L55146)" instead for T470. Same for X1Y2/X1Y3.

https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Trackpoint-Lenovo-Thinkpad-ThinkPad/dp/B072PQ7NT3

Unfortunately there are no softrim caps for super low profile. But there's help:

https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/809ldm/softrim_type_cap_for_super_low_profile_trackpoint/

afaik ibmthink and this post

https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/ThinkPad-T25-Anniversary-Edition/Does-the-T470-use-the-same-trackpoint-cover-as-T25/td-p/3856205

and even

https://download.lenovo.com/pccbbs/options_iso/ocm_october_2017_revised.xlsx

are wrong

Please correct me if I'm mistaken.

---------------------------------------

@ibmthink

Only T470s should be Super Low Profile? T470/p an T25 should be Low Profile? What a mess...

u/effngee · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I've had good luck with Arctic fans, for case cooling. Nice balance of air movement and low noise. For a 120mm CPU cooler, Silverstone has some nice choices that aren't too expensive.

Cooler Master case fans are inexpensive, but you might have to replace them within a year.

I don't recommend Bitfenix fans. Very poor air displacement.

u/davidbrit2 · 3 pointsr/3DS

This is the exact listing I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PQ7NT3

It's such a perfect fit, you'd think it was manufactured specifically for the N3DS XL (apart from the garish color, of course).

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

It's not really difficult. It's just kind of a long process, and all the screws make it a bit annoying. Rough steps:

  1. Remove battery and power supply.
  2. Remove keyboard.
    1. push up keyboard by the two bottom "slits" on the keyboard.
    2. after screws are exposed, remove them. I think they stay on the keyboard, though, but unscrewed.
    3. Pull the keyboard up a bit from the bottom, then pull towards you (or in the direction of the trackpad).
    4. flip the keyboard (or hold it vertically) and disconnect the two keyboard ribbons. (Note: all ribbons have some sort of lock that you either pull up, or pull back (pull back for the fingerprint scanner). It's black.
    5. Put the keyboard somewhere safe.
    6. Disconnect the trackpad ribbon. It's the small one below the keyboard ribbons.
  3. Remove bottom cover.
  4. Remove like 13 screws. I think they're the ones labeled "C"
  5. Remove the palm rest. It's held in by "snaps" (idk what to call them), like the display bezel. Some guitar picks might help here. (Note: If you have the fingerprint scanner, it's ribbon is glued to the laptop, so be careful when pulling the palm rest up in that section because it's shorter. Not extremely short but not long enough to work with. You can unglue it slowly and it becomes easier to disconnect.)
  6. With the palmrest now off, and since you disconnected the trackpad ribbon already, just flip over the palm rest and remove the screws for the trackpad.
  7. Swap the trackpad.
  8. Basically do everything backwards to put it back together.

    I ended up with the trackpad in and the thinkpad halway back together while trying to get the drivers to work because I didn't do a lot of research for the process to get the drivers to work. I think some steps have to be done while the clickpad is still connected (disabling automatic trackpad driver installation and such), but I'm not entirely sure. As soon as it worked for me, I just put it back together.

    Edit: I'm using mine on Windows 10. I haven't tried my trackpad with any Linux distribution. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    It's a Synaptics trackpad.
u/gcioffi2 · 3 pointsr/macbook

This happened to me pretty recently. The flex cable for the hard drive went bad. I guess it's pretty common in some of the older pro models (I have a mid 2012 one). I was able to order a cable off Amazon and replace it myself, it was fairly simple. Here is the link to the cable I ordered, and here is a link to the replacement guide I followed, both for the mid 2012 model.

Edit: I saw that you mentioned in another comment that the repair option isn't showing up for you in the disk utility. If you're hdd isn't showing up or is showing up as "disk0" it doesn't necessarily mean its dead. If the cable is dead then your computer can't "see" it, so it's not going to show up in the disk utility (I think. I'm by no means a computer expert. I just did a LOT of googling when it happened to me haha).

u/dylanholmes222 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Perhaps try to slow the speed down a bit, this allows your print to cool down more between layers. The layer height could cause an issue too, the larger the layer height the more plastic that needs to cool. Your probably don't need to heat your bed either (if you have a good first layer and level bed), this will keep the print warmer than it needs to be. Adding a part cooling fan with a duct could also help cool your pla quicker. Here's a thingiverse project that could work for your printer:
Semi-Circular Anet A8 Fan Duct found on #Thingiverse

You may need to buy a fan like this too:
SoundOriginal 2pcs Cooling Blower Fan DC 12V 0.15A 50mmx15mm Fans for 3d Printer



Also the nozzle size to layer height ratio could cause issues. I think the general rule of thumb is your layer height should not exceed 75% the nozzle size, so if you have a 0.4 nozzle then 0.3 should be your max layer height.


Personally I would cut the layer height in half and slow the print down to 40mm/s but crank the travel speed up to 150mm/s and see how it turns out. You can try placing a house fan pointed at your bed to help with cooling, I do this for prints with a lot of overhang.


Hope this helps.

u/Sushiki · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This keyboard
Such an interesting design, shame about the crazy high price haha
/u/nagese

u/thepariah4231 · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

Sure thing!

The screen was $69.99 USD from https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/screen-part-number/LP125WF2(SP)(B2)/

I ordered the trackpad from Amazon for $45AUD + shipping but looks like that seller is out of stock for now.

u/d0gg75 · 2 pointsr/applehelp

It isn't to hard. $10 for the part.

https://www.amazon.com/923-0741-Hard-Drvie-Cable-821-1480/dp/B00GJQCJWG/

I can usually get one done in about 10 minutes.

u/lazydude241 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Yes it is a Tevo Tarantula

​

Modifications i have made:

u/IAmA_Sergal-AMA · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

The holder is often referred as a hard drive caddy, and I found a couple on Amazon which ships by this month. The first one comes with the metal caddy itself, rubber pads, cover, and all needed screws. The second one is missing some parts(a screw and cover), and is a bit pricier.

1 2

If you really do have some time to spare and wanna save a few bucks, there's the eBay option like the other commenter suggested.

u/S5_0014-81 · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

I got this one for my T440p: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCNGBDL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2doWCb10S7RN3

It's a synaptics. Never had any issues with it.

u/mondo135 · 2 pointsr/mac

I just replaced one a couple months ago, but it wasn't as bad as yours. It was just painfully slow. Got the part on Amazon for $14. Part # is 821-2049-A.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y43G2MH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I've heard the cable gets damaged from friction from moving within the case.
However, when I inspected the old cable it looked perfect.

u/DeBlackKnight · 2 pointsr/overclocking

Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.

Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.

Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.

As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.

H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it- https://youtu.be/iVrqEfDbCko?t=51

No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.

u/lord_frostmoore · 2 pointsr/computers

Windows licenses now can cost as little as 20£ (just an example, there are many who sell those), if you want your system to be stable, you better just store the files you need on an external drive and fresh install.

u/Zinterax · 2 pointsr/MonsterHunter

The PSP nub works well enough, but I always found it felt like it was lose and would reposition over time as the square hole is larger on the PSP nub than the 3ds one. I ended up replacing the PSP nub with a thinkpad nub that fits perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PQ7NT3

u/stackz07 · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

I just bought these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072PQ7NT3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And they make the trackpoint as fast as the old ones. They are likely slightly different than the OEM ones but I don't notice much at a glance. I actually turned down my pointer sensitivity for the first time since I bought it. Thought I'd let ya know.

edit: its noticeably taller when installed on the trackpoint, but not too tall, it's perfect and solves the problem completely after using for an hour.

u/Lyegren · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

Just wanted to inform you of which trackpad I got and which driver I'm using. The replacement was successful.

I got this trackpad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's a Synaptics trackpad

And for the driver I used this package: gggr03ww.exe

The download link is the following: https://download.lenovo.com/pccbbs/mobiles/gggr03ww.exe

I found the link in this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/8gkfyt/replaced_t440p_trackpad_with_t450_trackpad/ It's OP's Edit 3

​

I followed the instructions that someone provided in the Amazon reviews. To disable the automatic trackpad driver update, I followed the instructions in the link below. They're also in a comment of the Amazon review with the instructions, but the howtogeek page below has a bit more details.

https://www.howtogeek.com/263851/how-to-prevent-windows-from-automatically-updating-specific-drivers/

​

If you do decide to change the trackpad, I'm willing to help you out with the driver stuff.

​

u/Nadehi18 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Spent a good half an hour reading them. When your finished check out its little bro

u/celestrion · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

I got mine from this page on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL

It worked perfectly for me on Windows 7 after installing the driver from the t450 support page.

I haven't had great luck with it on Windows 8.1 yet. Different versions of the driver give different trouble. The most recent driver kills the hardware buttons, but everything else works. The older version I'm using how has everything working except for dragging with the hardware buttons.

If I get it working before my SSD gets here (and, thus, gets Windows 10 on it), I'll post what I find.

u/oishiiburger · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

I don't have a part number for the pad, and I'm relatively sure it's a knockoff of some kind. However it has been working great. I ordered it from this listing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The backlight on my keyboard does indeed work, but it worked before, and all I did with the keyboard was remove it and put it back after the new trackpad was installed.

The wallpaper is from u/lostwithtrackpad, found here: https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/6vgucy/exploded_thinkpad_t440p_wallpaper/

u/kleyne · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

Hey don't get that one lol. Apparently it's the cheap version. You'll want the Synaptics version. That would be this one.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

u/ArchmageMC · 1 pointr/CR10
  1. Motor stopper dampeners. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will greatly reduce sound on your machine.
  2. X and Y motor supports Y = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845950 X = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793110 with dampeners. This'll help alleviate belt tension on the motor/belts and quiet the pritner even more. You'll need some M3x40mm screws for this.
  3. Flash the firmware with Marlin and enable the heat runaway options. This will stop the printer from burning down your house if a critical error occurs. https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
  4. Add a Mirror tile to your bed. Most CR10s beds bow in the middle. Mirrors are totally flat, so just make a mirror your new print bed/print bed base.
  5. Print the Petsfang upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 and get a Noctua 40mm fan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 50mm blower fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can choose if you want the 10 or 20mm noctua fans. Petsfang page says all the screws you'll need.
  6. Print some support stuff and get some rods to make supports. This'll reduce your print height by 20mm, but it'll greatly stabilize your printer when you do large prints, alleivating weird artifacting when the print gets higher up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805226
  7. Get a better Boaing tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I'm not sure if this is the best out there.)
  8. A steel wear resistant nozzle if you wanna print things other than PLA/TEPG.
  9. A PEI plate to make it much easier to get prints off. Preferably a flexible one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDQF7KQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  10. A spool mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2440814 which will lets you use bigger spools all while greatly reducing the amount of strain on the extruder and the noise that the filliment makes when it turns.
  11. Control box cooling fan and base. I've yet to install this one myself as I'm not sure how to wire up the fans, but this'll greatly reduce fan noise and keep the control box super cool. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729888 It'll also remove the problem where if the print goes over 300mm in height where the filiment can sometimes snap due to strain.
  12. A BLTouch to make bed leveling automatic more or less. I've yet to install this myself. https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bltouch&qid=1562832293&s=industrial&sr=1-3

    ​

    Anyone got any others?
u/pimple-cock · 1 pointr/techsupport

If I was to remove the current SSD (ridiculously small storage, it’s a 32gb) buy one of these and hook it up to an SSD of my choice maybe that would work? I’d have to use double sided tape since there’s no mount for a normal SSD as far as I can see but I’ve seen it done before.

u/TimeTravellerSmith · 1 pointr/buildapc

Other kits? As in samplers?

Other than the WASD kit linked up there and Amazon linked up there I'm not sure where you can find other switch samples.

Honestly though, odds are any KB you end up buying is going to be Black, Blue, Red or Brown. The other Cherry types just aren't very common to begin with, and the other switch types I don't think are common on nicer boards anyways. I think you'd be set with that sampler, or try going to a local computer shop and trying their boards out if they have any others.

Those four, IMO, are where it's at anyways. I don't know what you'd gain from going with another type really. Unless you're Old School and get an IBM model M with the buckling springs.

u/Sebaceous_Sebacious · 1 pointr/overclocking

Is this delidded? Are you planning to delid? With such a good bin, I'd be excited to see how good of an OC you could get if you weren't thermally limited.


I just got one with the AsRock Extreme 6, but I haven't yet found out how far I can push it on stock voltage. I'm using a Zalman LQ-315 cooler with the stock 50CFM fan swapped out for a monstrous 170CFM fan. My CLU (liquid metal thermal paste) is in the mail.

u/Lyzolda · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Is there another option for the RAM (1x8 or 2x4) that i could get from amazon for about the same price? I also saw this Windows 10 Professionel OEM Product Key , also on amazon. Is that a fake or why is it less than half the price)
I would like to order everything from one place, just the RAM and the Win10 are giving me problems right now.

u/LostPhenom · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I should have worded my question a little different. So the buckling spring is stiffer and lower pitch than blues? The most satisfying thing about the buckling springs, is that distinct, metallic ping.

Is this the model M that has the buckling spring keys?

u/Horkback · 1 pointr/CR10

E3D V6 hotend

Noctua fan for hotend cooling (I hosed the original using a heat gun to assist bed temps for ABS) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap as hell 5015 2 pack part cooling blowers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This kickass heavy duty customizable mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 printed in PETG

I replaced my hotend with a microswiss right away and jacked up both it and the original, but learned a lesson and added plugs to everything. Hotends usually come with crimpable plugs, but they're all different so I standardized on these for fans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5AHF0Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this type (xt60) for the hotend cuz current https://www.amazon.com/Female-Connector-Housing-Silicon-Battery/dp/B073QJWVVK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517496061&sr=8-5&keywords=xt60+connectors

All of the plugs made my wiring kinda fat, so when you join the Bowden tube, the wiring, and the ezabl cord its just heavy enough to droop lower than the gantry and get rubbed back and forth during prints. I designed a chain link style support in blender that anchors at the extruder and velcro'd the bundle to it. It allows free xy movement but not z. It works really well but could prolly be optimized. 😃

My printer came with the bed heater wiring strain relief already printed and installed, definitely do so. Also, get a dial gauge. Seriously. Print a gantry mount for it and slip it on to use it when needed.

u/phycent · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I bought this to mount my Samsung 850 EVO. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAQDQ64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e2dMBb38ZT0M9

​

You will get a handle to easily pull the drive out. Otherwise, it seems to me your pick will work.

u/Madon3 · 1 pointr/Dell

https://www.amazon.com/S-Union-Replacement-bottom-cover-Laptop/dp/B07673T34R/

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/100pcs-m2-3-5-steel-with-blue-white-zinc-T5-torx-drive-thin-flat-head-laptop/838734_32268332410.html

Don't know if aliexpress is a safe bet but
ask for M2x3 T5 screws

These are the ones I could find the quickest. There are loads of listings on ebay and amazon

u/saliqmander · 1 pointr/techsupportmacgyver

If you’re out of warranty this would be cheaper than sending it in and it takes like 3 minutes to replace.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711CZPXJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KY-7CbVQDVVCX

u/DungeonPrinting · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

There are 3 fans total I've replaced. I can't find the link to the last one. But you don't need to buy these. Any 12v fan that fits the right dimensions :) for sure check out the thingiverse group there is great info there.




SoundOriginal 2pcs 4010 Brushless DC Cooling Fan 12V 0.06A 40x40x10mm Speed 6800 RPM Fans for Computer case 3D Printer Humidifier and Other Small Appliances Series Repair Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773MW3X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LjVBCbSWFDDND




SoundOriginal 2pcs Cooling Blower Fan DC 12V 0.06A~0.15A 50mmx15mm Fans for 3D Printer Humidifier Aromatherapy and Other Small Appliances Series Repair Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WMHNG5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wlVBCbQ1FPK89








u/byronnnn · 1 pointr/Dell

I’ve been using this for 6 months in my 9650, works great.

Eathtek Replacement Grommet Rubber Rail with HDD Cable Connector XDYGX for Dell XPS 15 9550 Precision 5510 series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPYAYU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.WVzzbY8E3P8J

u/rahl_r · 1 pointr/TheRedPill

> ... a dogmatic code to engage in keyboard warrior style battles.

u/HaakenforHawks · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/GreyChillstep · 1 pointr/pics
u/zachsandberg · 1 pointr/thinkpad

Personally, I'd replace the touchpad. While you have it apart you can clean any mineral deposits or corrosion with isopropyl alcohol. I think the Trackpad is about $30.

https://www.amazon.com/buttons-Touchpad-Clickpad-Trackpad-Thinkpad/dp/B01NCNGBDL

u/lodbryce · 1 pointr/mac

Try reinstalling mac os. If that doesn't resolve the issue try replacing the Flex Cable. They often break on these models.

Flex Cable

u/rvcjew2 · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I recently got this one and it seems real or feels it anyways. YDLan New For IBM Thinkpad Mouse Laptop Pointer TrackPoint 3X Red Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXKW6S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ba-LzbH65AXRN

u/ArcAngel071 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I actually have had this laptop for a few years now and recently replaced the screen since it got a nasty crack. Replacement was 50 dollars and is a nice IPS panel which is far better than the stock TN it has.

As for the whole upper assembly I'll see if I can find any online and link them here. The top shell is made of aluminum did that break too?

Here is the top shell in Amazon pretty cheap

IPS screen replacement I used. Looks great

Also new hinges if you need them

Screen replacement vid. It was super easy

Hope this helps!

u/ShaunRMiller83 · 1 pointr/macbook

As you can see from the link below and to the posters above point that model number runs about 4 years.

http://www.everymac.com/ultimate-mac-lookup/?search_keywords=a1278


This appears to be the correct Hdd cable for your system

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJQCJWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eBUQzbZ5RTX7S

u/c0mputerRFD · 1 pointr/techsupport

https://www.amazon.com/GinTai-Replacement-Touch-15ACL-110-15ACL-110-15AST/dp/B07CHD7S4J

This is what you need for power.

CPU fan needs good cleaning.

Chassis will be available only on aliexpress for cheap. You can replace the whole bottom of it. Or just duct tape the shit out of it. Choice is yours.

u/foxdk · 1 pointr/techsupport

This seems to be a question regarding how you get the plus pin out of your broken charging port, right?

If so, I would recommend you to ditch this plan, and instead replace the port completely.
You can find spare parts online for a few dollars, and when we're talking critical stuff, like the charging port, a MacGyver solution just simply wont cut it.

While you're at it, I would also recommend you to take a closer inspection on your CPU fan.
It's not uncommon to have dust collect in and around, which can hinder the movement, and cause it to not function properly.

As for the hinge, I agree it's probably some screws that have fallen out.
If you can get one of the spare screws, you can take it to a local hardware store, and they will help you find the correct ones.

All in all, you have quite a few things to do, and if you're not too keen on spending some money to replace the charging port, the CPU fan, and the hinge screws, I would say just get a new one.

u/Relax_Im_Hilarious · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Right?? Check out the rest of the reviews, apparently the well-to-do are big fans.

u/gmanyy · 1 pointr/Dell

The idea about USB-C charger is very nice. If you're not afraid to open the laptop up (needs torx t5 and philips ph1 screwdrivers), I'd find a working USB-C charger among friends, and if it indeed is working, I'd try replacing a charging port for the charger as it's only 10 bucks - https://amazon.com/gp/product/B06X15K6YG

The USB-C charger you need is the one rated for 19 volts and at least 60 watts. MacBook Pro and older Google Pixel chargers should work, as well as some Thunderbolt 3 docks.

Getting the USB-C charger as a main means of charging is not recommended for 9550 as it's not charging when sleeping or turned off from USB-C (at least mine 9550 doesn't).

u/t440pAdmin · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I know you mentioned spending as little as possible but I just purchased this trackpad earlier this week and installed it yesterday followed by installing the Synaptics drivers and everything is working exactly as it should.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/danrdz77 · 1 pointr/Dell

normally, dell will only let you choose teh smaller battery if you pick the 1080 panel. Dave 2 D in youtube, I think claimed that he manually change the large battery for a small battery and added the cage for the 2.5 disk.
I used to have a Precision 5510, and adding the drive is easy if the cage comes with the computer. you need like a 20 bucks pair of rubber rails and a SATA connector. link below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MPYAYU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/monkeyking225 · 1 pointr/macbookrepair

Amazon Macbook Cable

This is the cable I bought from Amazon with pretty decent reviews...I do not believe it was made from China. I've also ran tests to check on the HDD and so far it's seems to be good.

When I run the AHT, it always gets stuck while testing the logicboard though.

u/w0wc000 · 1 pointr/ender3

Here is my Hotend setup

  • I decided to run with the V6 Heavy Duty Mount. Had to use the "alt" version for the EZABL wing and flip it in my slicer to get it on the left side. The "alt" version makes it so it won't hit the gantry. The offsets are in the Thingiverse description that you will update with the "CUSTOM_PROBE" setting in the TH3D firmware you will have to update.

  • For my parts fans, I wanted something highly reviewed, well priced and rated high. These 5015 fans come in a 2-pack for really good price and seem to be the best reviewed on Amazon. I went with them and noticed no whining or issues. No matter what, you will have a louder sound with blower fans (but not horrible, even with 2).

  • For the hotend fan, I went with the Noctua 40mm x 20mm version (12v but Ender runs on 24v. Need a buck converter as described below). Sure, it's a bit pricier but it's quiet and pushes air enough to cool. Noctua has a great 6 year warranty on it and I'm sure the crappy chinese fans will have to be purchased multiple times within the same period, making it the same cost. Just make sure to get the PWM version instead of the FLX. No worries about cutting the cable because it comes with adaptors you can cut.

    If you decide to go with a regular 24v fan, you won't need the buck converter I talk about below.

    Unless you have a multimeter and want to mess around with getting the voltage right (which isn't hard), grab a buck converter like this with a display and hook up the 40mm fan to it. The little gold screw is for adjusting the voltage. If you run with the Noctua I mentioned above, you will have to set that to roughly 12v.

    Sooooooooo

    With all that being said, just splice all the wires and solder them or attach connectors that run from the fans to the wires. You are essentially replacing the fans with the same wires from the new fans. It's a pretty easy process. I want to say you definitely should plan out how you want to organize everything beforehand. Zipties are great. If you use the buck converter because you need 12v, the input side and output side are labeled on the converter so pay attention to that.
u/djjuice · 1 pointr/Dell

I purchased these and they were an exact fit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07673T34R/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

they are more expensive so try your items, you can always return with amazon if they don't fit

u/soccerperson · 1 pointr/applehelp

I actually replaced the SATA cable a few months back so it's relatively new. With this one to be exact: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJQCJWG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It should be capable with SATA III, no?

Edit: according to another buyer it does apparently

https://www.amazon.com/forum/-/Tx284K9HKOLAP1C/1?source&asin=B00GJQCJWG

u/zardvark · 1 pointr/thinkpad

Long story ...

I got a genuine Synaptics trackpad from Amazon, at considerable expense (compared to other options), that was absolutely horrible. 25% of the time it wouldn't enumerate. When it did work, the quality of the tracking would drift over time. Sometimes it was OK, at others it would have too much inertia and overshoot my intended target. It would also have poor precision. I had to move away from a target and re-approach it, because I could not make small movements.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Somewhat discouraged, I took a chance on this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Touchpad-Trackpad-w-Three-3-Buttons-Key-For-LENOVO-T440-T440P-T440S-T540P-T450/122011354304?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

This is an Alps pad, about 2/3 of the price, and it is absolutely brilliant! It has a perfectly smooth surface and excellent tracking. I absolutely love it! Unfortunately, they are sold out. : (

I now have a bud who wants me to perform the same surgery on his T440. This one looks like the Alps that I have, so I've flipped a coin and ordered it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Touchpad-Trackpad-Three-Buttons-Key-Fit-THINKPAD-T440-T440P-T440S-T540P-T450/192148939153?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

But, it is still in transit from China. It'll be another couple of weeks, before it arrives.

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/thinkpad

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCNGBDL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/Jimga150 · 1 pointr/applehelp

this is the one i got for my macbook pro 13" mid 2012 (non retina): double check your model number to be sure.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJQCJWG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

u/brynnflynn · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

We have a 10s, but the same basic upgrades apply. Your goal is to increase stability and repeatability.

Springs:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M7MP2FC/

They're longer than the originals, and much stiffer. We went from having to relevel every print to never touching it once we had it dialed in.

Mirror bed:

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lots-mirror-39151700/

Replaced the glass bed with one of these. Huge improvement over the original bed, especially since it meant we could swap out build plates without touching the leveling. Just unclip, remove old plate, add new plate. Wash with dish soap and water, wipe down and air dry.

Tools and parts for Petsfang:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R1H3Z8X/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXRNYNX/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/

These and whatever M screw set floats your budget are all you need to print and install the Petsfang.

u/Theloanbum · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm pretty incompetent when it comes to motherboards, is this what you mean?

u/memyselfandmemories · 1 pointr/CR10

These guys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Keep in mind, with stepper dampeners, squash feet, and the Noctua fan , My printer is entirely noiseless until the part cooling fan turns on, which makes it noisy by comparison. It actually just the sound of it blasing air through the holes. Also, I made a typo in my original post which changed the meaning. I've fixed it.

u/Nebulezz · 1 pointr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01759H62S/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1526072383&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=windows+10&dpPl=1&dpID=31PDZecH2BL&ref=plSrch

Couldn't find it on US Amazon but theyre all over UK Amazon, and they send the codes via email so no waiting on delivery. You just download windows iso from Microsoft and then install. Bought the one from the myself but it may be more bother than its worth of you're in the US

u/EdinburghIllusionist · 1 pointr/funny

I still come to this to get a giggle:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B00MJ3M91E/ref=mw_dp_cr

u/impending_dave · 0 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

help me i can't stop collecting sojourners

my wallet aches

my bank account writhes in pain

when will the misery end

u/alose · 0 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/IAmKramerTheRacist · -1 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes I have one right at your price range The Sojourner Keyboard. It's great!