Best leathercraft punching tools according to redditors
We found 101 Reddit comments discussing the best leathercraft punching tools. We ranked the 26 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 101 Reddit comments discussing the best leathercraft punching tools. We ranked the 26 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Clever died when you used a Hermes belt to try your first punch! Next time spend a few bucks on this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NK5VY2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_bBrcvb0R6XYTE
Congratulations! You've earned one of these!
The skull is great, but the stitching and edges could use work.
I highly recommend you look into getting a set of leather stitching punches like these (I don’t know anything about this brand in particular, just linking to an example). It makes hand-stitching way easier and indistinguishable from a machine stitch in terms of aesthetics.
I just posted another comment so you'd see a notification.
Here's the list! Hope it's not too long. All the tools listed are the ones I bought. If I have other suggestions, I've listed them as well. I've also listed details on the functions of the tools, and why they're superior to some other alternatives. If you look for the same amount of tools in one of those "kits," they would set you back roughly 200-400, depending on where you bought it from. The tools in these kits are usually quite inferiorly made as well. This list is a result of about a week long search and perusal. Tandy is a well known and easily accessible aggregation of tools, but they're overpriced for what they do and their quality is mediocre at best.
*Some of the eBay listings might have ended, but I'm sure you'll be able to find identical tools for the equivalent price or even cheaper.
For me the tools came out to a grand total of roughly $115. You can give or take $20 if you want to improvise your own tools, or switch them out. I'd say this setup works just fine for mid to smaller projects like what I made, or wallets, etc.
As for the leather, Springfield Leather sells some quality leather by the square foot, which is nice for first timers, as most tanneries only sell by the side, like what I had, which usually average around 21-28 square feet. Pretty big investment. Maverick Leather Company sells quality leathers as well as Horween "Seconds", like what I got for a very nice discount. These seconds are full sides with minor defects in the leather, but unless you're making huge bags it's easy to cut around the brand marks/scars etc, and your leather will look spotless. I got a full side of Horween Essex for roughly $130, and I'm guessing if I bought the same straight for Horween it would have run me in the ballpark of $300 or so. Since my laptop case only used about 7-8% of my leather, I used about $10 worth of leather. Quite a bargain if you ask me. If you're looking to do many projects like I am, I'd advise you to invest in a nice Horween side. Can't beat it for value and price.
All told, the laptop case itself cost about $11-12 worth of materials** (leather, fabric, thread, glue) and took the better part of 2 days to complete. Granted, much of that time was spent just sitting and thinking as most of it was improvisation, as you can see by my horrible sketch.
As far as my "learning" went, it was literally just Google. Some youtube videos help, and I glanced through some forums, but overall, as I've often found in woodworking too, nothing beats hand-on experience.
Well, hope this helped you guys out and answered some questions. I know I definitely would have appreciated a specialized list like this when I was starting out.
Sling is just thick cotton grosgrain ribbon, QD Attatchments can be found all over the place, and so can the strap adjustment buckle, all for super cheap.
>The stitching on the strap is a little difficult, but other than that...
Nah man, not at all. The real item obviously uses a machine, however you can achieve similar results with some scrap leather (Buy "Vegetable Tanned" leather for crafting, takes dye well and is very strong, you may even find a "Belt Blank" kit already cut into a nice neat strap) and some "leather lacing chisels" also known as Pricking Irons. Simply lay out where you want your stitch-box, double your leather over, line up the fork, smack it with a hammer (into a wooden backstop), and there you have it, nice evenly spaced stitchable holes. From there, you just dye the leather however you prefer (Leather Dye works great, but in a pinch, wood stain works fine and double-brewed coffee can work too), finish the edge with a little bees wax and an edge slicker and hand sew it together with some Waxed Thread and some robust Leathercraft Needles. (I might even lay down a layer of contact adhesive between the leather-strap-leather sandwich for additional hold while sewing). Just take your time and be patient with layout and cutting and it would make for a great afternoon project. For a tutorial on stitching leather neatly, check this out and this edge slicking tutorial. Bonus; you can dye the leather and buy whatever color grosgrain and hardware you want to match or contrast to your heart's content.
You can buy a cheap rotary punch and do it. It's really easy to use.
A) I have an awl in my craft kit that I usually use. B) If you have a hammer and nail, you can also use that; put something underneath that won't get damaged. C) They do sell actual leather hole punches for pretty cheap.
Uncaging
Marking the holes
Making the holes
I bought a stencil tool similar to this one to trace the design, but you could probably use anything with a smooth round tip. A ball point pen could work, as long as you don't draw directly on the leather with it.
I also have a swivel knife, but the blade was too big for these thin lines, so I used an exacto knife. Any utility knife should work just fine for cutting in the pattern you trace.
For the stitching I have a set of lacing punches
Another tool I used was a border tool
Modeling tools like these
And finally I used stamps like these
Many of these tools aren't necessary. I made another project with nothing but an exacto knife and the stamps for the background, which are the only tools I consider 100% neccesary. You can't get around having the proper stamps for the background. Having these other tools does make it a little easier though.
Oh, and contact cement. I got all my tools from Tandy Leather, which has a few stores on the west coast (not sure if its a national chain) and Amazon. Contact cement from Home Depot. Leather from Tandy and Hobby Lobby. Tandy has scraps you can buy for pretty cheap, hobby lobby sells the same scraps for $10 more with way less variety.
Great video technique ;) Nice job on your first wallet.
It might be time for you to get a proper leather chisel to make your holes. Something like this one. Note that is a 3mm. I would recommend 3.25 to 3.30 mm for your first set. Use a mallet or a very light hammer on your chisels. Chisel your work piece on top of another piece of leather or two so your chisel penetrates all the way through your workpiece. You want to see the chisel tines all the way through your leather, not just the tip.
Google “burnishing leather” and watch a couple of videos. That will improve your edges.
Use a wing divider to draw your stitch line.
Leather Wing Divider KangTeer 5.5 inch Leathers DIY Tool Adjustable Craft Edge Creaser Rotating Leathercraft Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CK2569L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.gN1Bb9T67MEM
Then, use a diamond chisel to punch your holes.
Aiskaer White Steel 4mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits (4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uiN1Bb2NAQ60Z
I use both of these products and have zero issues getting clean stitching.
I wanted to give a heads up for those looking to save money with DIY foams. I went through 3 orders of Comply tips over a 3-4 month span. They would literally tear up due to the excess earwax after 2-3 weeks of use(even with the earwax proof version). I got fed up and ordered these
I've been using these DIY tips for a long time and its been amazing.
Puncher
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NK5VY2/
Tips
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013A0C0Y
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Noise-Isolating-Earbud-Tips/
I've gone through about 8 pairs of DIY foam tips with my Triplefi v10 and still have tons of spare foam tips left.
Using something like this is a lot cheaper than buying new belts. Works great.
Also, you might want to invest in a belt hole punch. They're about $8-10 on amazon, and its way easier than trying to use a drill to make an emergency hole in a belt at 6 am. Ask me how I know.
I lied. It's only $12!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ6XBZ7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Sorry, it's called an awl. This is very much like what I have
For tools (for example, to make a wallet), you would need... anything missing?
Wooden slicker for burnishing (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0048FM2OU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_27&smid=A3NY6IRPSQ8J63)
self-healing mat (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SDOFO?keywords=self%20healing%20mat&qid=1449180954&ref_=sr_1_8&sr=8-8)
Cement (http://www.amazon.com/Barge-Cement-Rubber-Leather-Glass/dp/B002JL2ZHE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449180993&sr=8-2&keywords=leather+contact+cement)
Edge dye (http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Eco-flo-Professional-Dressing/dp/B00LKMAJQW/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1449181034&sr=8-13&keywords=leather+edge+dye)
Sand paper
grover for making stitch grooves (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OHAHICM?keywords=leather%20edge%20beveler&psc=1&qid=1449180851&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1-spons)
beveler (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00430GAS4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_30&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
awl/chisel for making stitch holes (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBRVKOK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_31&smid=A1EX7LU0M6LM21 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036LNXEA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_29&smid=A2UDNPGKURPVSY)
needles for stitching and thread (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00114RBSI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_26&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
Anything else?
The cheap route of producing a wallet you'll be happy with:
Sharp knife(exact or utility work) like $5-$10 if you don't have one
Diamond Chisels- $18 3mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006OVYU5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jo-PBb7M287N4
There are cheaper ones but I've used these so its what I can recommend. You could just use a cheap Awl to punch holes but it won't look nearly as nice since it's your first project. If you go the awl route then make sure you get a small one
Thread- $7 Ritza 25 Tiger thread .06mm at Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. You can cheap thread but it is harder to work with and doesn't look as nice imo.
Needles- Use the smallest needles you have that will fit the thread, if you don't have any needles then get John James Saddlers Harness Needles Size 4, $7.50 at Rocky Mountain Leather Supply
Contact Cement- Dap weldwood like $6 for a pint on amazon as an add-on item.
Those items will let you make a decent product. You still may want something to clean up edges. If its veg tan you might want an edge beveler and you can use a piece of canvas or jeans to burnish. If it's chrome tanned then you'll want edge kote($8) or something similar. Or you can just leave it as is if you like that look since it's your wallet.
Tried my best to measure with a ruler at work, here's what I found:
[EDIT]
Cheap leather hole punch tool if anyone ends up needing to use it, it works well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NK5VY2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Hfhiub0RM4ZS5
amazing work, would love to see the final full pic.
I feel like the build may have been easier if you used pricking irons rather than a hand sewing punch, it helps to keep even spacing and you can make a bunch of holes in one go. https://smile.amazon.com/CrazyEve-Leathercraft-Leather-Stitching-Perforate/dp/B00T17OULI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468779215&sr=8-1&keywords=pricking+iron
again, great work
Or get a leather punch that costs 9$
https://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Punch/dp/B000NK5VY2
I bought this baby and it's gotten the job done on several belts over the past few years. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QS9R9W4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00QS9R9W4&pd_rd_w=6SA1M&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=8Oq63&pf_rd_r=7S926WJH4JJFTG53BYJ5&pd_rd_r=cb1745e2-d0f1-48ae-8d7c-500e98d5bc01
Absolutely. I would recommend a few tools to get started - a cheap set of stitching chisels to get you started (these poke the holes for the needles to go in and out of), a cheap wing divider to scribe a straight stitching line, some waxed thread I linked Ritza Tiger 25 in 0.6mm because it's pretty much all I use, there are cheaper options, but this thread is wonderful to work with. Most of the other thread on amazon is going to be thicker and look too chunky with a 4mm iron IMO. Lastly, some needles. I use and like these. Then just look up a few youtube videos on saddle stitching. You'll have it down in no time. It's really not super difficult, there are a few tricks to making it look nice.
yep often a set will come with a 1/2/4/6 set up you can often get a 10 as well. it's nice because the spacing is standardized for each set.
Hey bud... get one of these for the next time you want to punch a hole in your leather. Not expensive and makes a much cleaner cut for the leather!
I had a really cheap diamond punching iron that I got in a kit I believe it was 4mm , but I just bought a 3mm Kevin Lee French style iron.
They were about 100 bucks for 8+2 prong
I went with 3mm because I want to practice making watch straps.
I personally prefer the look of the French style irons over the diamond style, but personally to me I think the spacing is even more important then diamond vs French style .
I have heard good things about the craft tool diamond chisels , they are supposed to be really good for the money they are 25 bucks a peice . So you can get an 8 prong and a 2 prong for around fifty bucks ... you want the two prong for when you need to go around corners . crafttool
I have also heard the wuta brand on amazon is pretty good , those are a little more expensive they will run you about 85 bucks for two . wuta-amazon
If your looking for budget but still good quality , I hear people recommending Seiwa which go for about 15-18 bucks a pop . But leathercraft has these which apparently are just rebranded Seiwas and they’re like 8- 12 bucks ! So you can get a 6 prong and a 2 prong for Under 30 bucks!! The only down side that I’ve read is that the holes are a little bit bigger .
Kind of looks like a leather punch to me.
The one I am linking to rotates, however.
http://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Punch/dp/B000NK5VY2
At the very least, most of the research I've done recommends using an awl for the holes, which would probably speed it up quite a bit and be pretty inexpensive. Some people prefer a stitching wheel, which marks out the holes, but still requires an awl to punch through. The irons are great, though; I just put the first tine in the last holes that I punched, and it lines up perfectly.
Backstiching is pretty simple- after you've finished your stitching, do two or three stitches coming back from the way you came. It doesn't require any knots that stick out, and it holds everything in place nicely. Just make sure that you pull the thread tight so that it doesn't stand much prouder than the rest of the stitches. I've read that you can cut a slight groove under the stitches that you want to backstitch to help to keep it down, although i never remember to do so.
I haven't worked with kevlar thread, so I don't know how it compares to waxed. However, the wax is nice, as it (1) is fairly slick, so it slides through the holes easily, and (2) helps to resist stains.
As someone else mentioned, /r/leathercraft is a treasure trove of information, so if you want to go in deeper, they're a great resource! Be warned that it is a time vampire, though- there are hundreds of techniques to try that yield a huge variety of results, so I've spent hours trying out different methods to see what works best for me.
Look at a leather hole punch.
All you need is a hole punch and an eyelet setter. I use 3/16" eyelets which are a little on the smaller side but still fit most leather laces.
Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:
If links weren't provided then I already had the item.
For belts, have you considered ordering custom-made ones such as from this site? Alternatively there are guides for making your own that can be found in /r/malefashionadvice and it seems to be pretty easy and cost-effective. I also love my leather hole punch, which I got for less than $10 on Amazon. Hope you find that helpful!
I got these needles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001687P3U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and these punches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBRVKOK/ref=s9_simh_gw_p201_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=1PVZED59D6F03DF8X880&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop
I think this might work better if you're interested in trying.
Here is the mobile version of your link
You could always cheat...
I got a small 16$ set from amazon ( Electop 31 Pcs Leather Sewing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07998XNQK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share )
A small all metal diamond punch set ( Aiskaer White Steel 4mm 1/2/4/6... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share )
And a really nice, cheap, knife ( BANYOUR Leather Knife Cutting... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LD4PC2D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share )
They worked for what I needed, especially as a beginner!
Aiskaer White Steel 3mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits(3mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JGQ2RLF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FhHhDb8DAS59M
Those are not bad at all for $11. Especially since your just starting out you dont need to blow out the bank on them
PM me you address and I'll send you one of these.
In doing my research, I found that the kits on Amazon had a bunch of things that aren't really necessary or particularly helpful. So I opted to build my own.
Instead of a kit, I would walk into a Harbor Freight and buy a wing divider, blow hammer, knife set. Then order a diamond chisel set, skiver knife, and edge beveler. That is a $50 set, that although inexpensive, is going to be better than the all-in-one sets off amazon. You can likely find an old kitchen cutting board, sand paper and ruler around the house (if not a ruler is cheap at Harbor Freight). I grabbed some needles from my mother because she quilts, but you may need to buy a couple of those.
Most sets don't include consumables (leather, quality thread, glue) so I did not include those in the list for comparison. The kits often include items that aren't necessary or are genuinely useless at least for starting out (thimble, groover, multiple of the same tools, 4 different awls, stitch markers when you have chisels, items your not interested in like bad thread, cheap buttons, etc.)
I suggest this style upfront for all hobbies (inexpensive but not crap) so people can get a feel for what they think is worthwhile to upgrade. While some of the items will prove to be plenty sufficient.
Too small?
Yeah, I just used an awl. Which chisels did you buy? I was considering buying this set.
Maybe a leather punch? Hit it with a hammer and it'll pop out a circle.
https://www.amazon.ca/Hollow-Punch-Leatherworking-Punching-Craft/dp/B000RB1K4C
Stitch Chisels 4mm
Wax thread
Saddle stitch
What mm of thread punch should I purchase for small wallets? I was looking at these, but will they be small enough? - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JGQ2RLF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4VzoDbVZ4JK00
I want to make something like this: https://youtu.be/FSWEnPI_Mwc
You can buy a leather puncher at Hobby Lobby for $20 ($10 if you use a coupon). Here is one for $7 off Amazon. One of the best purchases I've ever made!
Gotcha. Does it stretch or move a lot when you cut it?
Yeah that’s not the best way to mark stitching lines so I recommend a wing divider. This will be cost effective and will help tremendously with your stitching.
I bought these two when I started and still use them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779R5FCJ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_A727AbF4N33A3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_a827AbKEF359B
They work great for me and will eventually upgrade to some quality tools like KS.
For nicer, neater holes
I used cheap stitching chisels from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to punch the holes preassembly. Then glued everything and stitched it up. I don't have a small diamond awl but that would definitely make things a lot easier. I put a bunch of needles through the corner holes to keep them lined up but they naturally fell out of line (because of the outside curve vs the inside curve) so I had to back stitch one side to realign them.
Thanks so much for the response!
Hmmm maybe that's it. What do you mean by casting? Also, I wonder if my needle is too large. I find that to really get it through the holes, I need to push an awl through and the original diamond shape is somewhat lost. As far as ensuring the slant, I think I'm doing this correctly. It's hard to tell from this picture as the stitches rest in a stitching groove, but they had a slight slant, and the backend definitely looked ~ok~ (though a bit messy like you see in the picture as far as looking a bit "twisted")
I agree about the thread gauge too-- maybe it's too thick.
Thread
Needles
Punches
I bought these and they are WELL worth the price. Great quality, and have stayed super sharp after hundreds of uses. I've found 4mm spacing is a good middle-of-the-road spacing - perfectly fine for most things, but a bit too wide for really small projects.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016C7RLJC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is my first attempt at any sheath and wet forming. That is the reason I decided to test it out first with a scrap piece. I liked the minimalist idea and this is what I came up with. I also tested my new diamond chisels and I love them but if the stitches look a little off it's because I just eyeballed the whole project. I used 5-6 oz veg, .7 mil Kevlar thread, and finished it with olive oil then tried my burnishing wax as a water repellent by melting some over the whole thing with a hair dryer then rubbing it in while hot. I like the look of it. As for the burnishing wax I used equal parts bee and paraffin wax. I tried it on a really rough edge and used nothing but the wax and I think it works great. Any comments or suggestions would appreciated. Here are the chisels I used. It makes 8 stitches per inch.
I own them.
Check here
Here is the mobile version of your link
I've been happy with this kit, though half of it I'll never use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L5LBV5M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Upgrades I have made since and would advise doing immediately or very soon:
Chisels (I would get a 10-prong too for bags) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ALZ5M3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A better scratch awl (mine got bent while piled in with other tools)
Better threads
Needles
An organizer box
90-degree angle
Circle template
This is just my second wallet, heavily inspired by /u/sgircys (thanks for the awesome tutorial). The leather is 2-3 oz Oak Leaf from Tandy. I've given it a couple of coats of neatsfoot oil and left it in the sun for a day. The tread is 0.8 mm black tiger thread. Chisels are these cheap ones from amazon. I've used the 6 prong one to do all of the holes in the wallet.
Another side question, if I want to get a dye would you guys recommend the oil based ones or water based?
I use these to actually punch the holes on thinner leather: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/
For projects, you can do slightly larger bags, dop kits, etc if you go for a fabric lining, duck cloth or canvas would add good reinforcement.
I used a stitching awl. The needle that came with it is far too large for detailed work though. For another project, I bought a machine sewing needle. Far less ripping and allows for finer threads. You could also stitch using a normal needle.
Something like this is very necessary too for making the spots to place the holes with a normal awl:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0038HWMB2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Punch/dp/B000NK5VY2
It looks good! If you have ~$20 to spend you can get a groover ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074YD8DXY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506701984&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=leather+working+tools&dpPl=1&dpID=51qIiFoZwYL&ref=plSrch ) and stitching prongs? I'm not sure of the technical term ( www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T17OULI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506702124&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=leather+stitching+punch&psc=1 )
try this one
leather punch
I bought it about a month ago, did the job well on 4 different belt so far, super easy.
Get this tool:
http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Hole-Punch-Tool-Heavy/dp/B000NK5VY2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321287194&sr=8-1
$6.68 + FS w/ Prime.
I have a wierd plan (perhaps) to get this and continue to use my belt until I hit my goal weight. I am on my last hole now, after being down to the second to last one on the other end of the belt.
***
SW: 295, CW: 252, GW: 200
By hand. I bought these chisels http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Stainless-Steel1-Diamond-Leather/dp/B00CBRVKOK
Nice work, really well done.
Here is an inexpensive punch I have used for years that works well: SE 7924LP Heavy-Duty Leather Hole Punch Tool, 2.0 - 4.5 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NK5VY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_exDxybKCYTQBP
I would suggest this kind of device http://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Punch/dp/B000NK5VY2 better them knife cause it doesn't tear material as much so holes might stay (read not completely tear) longer.
You can then reinforce holes with this http://m.instructables.com/id/Reinforced-fabric-hole-Old-style-button-hole-or-ey/
this punch set looks as though it would serve your needs. Reasonable cost and you mentioned plural Submissives in your original post, so... not a one-off?
I do not vouch for the quality of the item or its seller. Just the best results I could come up with during a perfunctory Google search for "Leather Punch Set".
Ideally you should use something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Punch/dp/B000NK5VY2
might have to make 2 holes side by side. if you Cut the rubber, it will continue to rip along that cut and tear. If you use a hole punch you are creating a round hole and it has no place to tear.
If you have a farm store or hardware store close by where you live they might have one on the shelf.
I think it looks great!
As someone has already pointed out, they make oblong punches...in a lot of sizes
https://www.amazon.com/12Pcs-Shape-Leather-Working-Oblong/dp/B06WWGSNCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503356433&sr=8-1&keywords=oblong+leather+punch
Also - you seem pretty set on how to do the rounder corners, with many straight cuts - I personally use a french curl ruler for cutting. You need a steady hand on the ruler and some practice, but i've found it's helped me a bit. Then again, i'm a super beginner so take it or leave it
Looks pretty good. Always come in at least 3/16 of an inch from edge for stitching. Get yourself a stitching groover too. It cuts a groove in the leather both to help heep stitches straight, and so your thread doesn't sit proud if the leather. Especially for an item that will be in and out of your pocket. Get a set of diamond stitching chisels too to help you with spacing, and clean up your stitches. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549SNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1.CJDb1VV85PN
Other than that. I would personally do this with a thicker veg tan leather, obviously you have what you have. But thicker veg tan allows you to better finish the edges of the leather and use an edge coat to both make it pop, and to protect the edge of the leather which is what will surely start to wear first on this item. You dun good, though, just need to practice!
https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Skilled-Crafter-Punches-Professional/dp/B00QS9R9W4/ref=pd_sbs_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AZE4MFS2PJKHS8R65XJ5
It's not really a saddle stitch if you don't lay the strands over each other...
Even better solution
Get a leather hole punch for best results, they are cheap. I've cut down a couple belts. Then I just used a pair of good scissors to trim off the excess leather.
This is how you're supposed to do it -
http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Hole-Punch-Heavy-2-0mm/dp/B000NK5VY2/
With one of these
I got one of these and have used it to make 6 new holes in my belt!
https://www.amazon.com/SE-7924LP-Heavy-Duty-Revolving-Leather/dp/B000NK5VY2