(Part 2) Best leathercraft stamping & punching tools according to redditors

Very nice quiver and thanks for my next project. I really love working with leather.
For those who want to get started it's not that expensive of a hobby. As for leather it's actually fairly cheap and most projects don't go over $25 in supplies. It's about $100 to get the tools you'll need and although their not top of the line they will last quite a while.

Tool 1 |
Tool 2 |
Tool 3
Tool 4 |
Tool 5 |
Tool 6 |
Tool 7 |
Tool 8 |
Tool 9 |
Tool 10

I will add
contact cement(I use weldwood($) but Barge($$) is one of the favorites)
Neatsfoot oil(lesson learned on keeping the leather oiled!)


For diamond punches I got these for $18. Work fantastically and you get a full set(1,2,4,6). You'll mostly use the 2 and 6 but 1 and 4 are nice to have.


Waxed Thread- Ritza 25 (Tiger thread) no doubt about it. Even if it's your first project ever. Like $6 for 25m or $32 for 500m, makes stitching sooooo much easier and looks a ton nicer.


Needles- John James. $10 for 25 needles, haven't had one bend yet.


In the long run you'll want a skiving knife since it's easier for bigger cuts vs exacto. If you're handy get a peice of 1095 steel and make your own! Get some stones and some buffing compound, put a chisel edge on it, and learn how to make a razors edge because that's something you'll need to keep the knives sharp!

She's a total troublemaker!! You know those books "If you give a mouse a cookie"/"if you give a moose a muffin"/"if you give a pig a pankcake?" We'll I'm the mouse moose pig. If you open my eyes to the wonder of distress inks I'll get my first set and then realize I need a few additional sets to achieve the looks I'm after. And as I get more sets I'll realize I need more blending foams and handles, and a better way to store and organize my inks and foams, and dangit I should really have bought full sized pads for some of these colors.

I would like to go on record and say that /u/crazyflavour also convinced me to buy the Tonic Studios Stamp Platform. Again, mouse moose pig....This led me to realizing I needed to convert (most) of my enormous wood mounted stamp collection to cling mounts. And once you do that you need a way to store and organize them all. I was planning on doing this eventually before we met though so she can't be held fully responsible. She just sparked the fire.

Her bigger crime was introducing me to Jennifer McGuire's blog.

Before that fated day, I was blissfully ignorant of so many things. My eyes have been opened and my world has been rocked. Spending time on that site and her lists of favorite things has resulted in a run away train spending spree on things that I can no longer live without. The summer of 2017 will go down in infamy for all the times I tried to talk myself out of things and lost. I'm starting to think I might need an insurance policy for my craft room because if my house burns down no one will ever believe how much of an investment was stashed in there.

Hey guys, I'm writing mainly from the perspective of a beginner in most areas and what I found to be reasonable purchases. I split my time between braid for chokers, whips, etc & straps for my friends whom like recreational bedroom hobbies. I do a smattering of carving, saddles, repair stuff.

Strap cutters:

• Recently I got the table top mount ... it's got a bad mount post, but I still get better results from it than I do with hand cutting in a fraction of the time (unless I really clamp & measure my leather to do it by hand). Table top mountable strap cutter. If you're doing lots of them or long ones this is the best deal if you're not making your own strap cutter from hand - there's lots of tutorials on how to make a strap cutter/beveler/skiver yourself online.
  
  
• Australian strander - I've had this one for almost a year and a half, it's my goto tool & I LOVE it for getting tapers down. What I like: top height adjustable to hold the leather more firmly & a roller on that, solid build and standard blades, easy to adjust width on the fly. What I dislike ... it only does certain widths, that there's no easy release for doing the most advanced circle cut methods of whip tapering and have to feed it back out and then in again repeatedly. What it does do - there's no comparison in quality for what it produces. If you're just making lace on a budge & willing to spend some time learning it - it's awesome.
  
  
• Craft tool wooden strap cutter - this is a beginners best friend. I clamped mine down to a table and my first day was making very decent straps out of this guy. You can tweak the angle of the cut to make it even smoother by putting a bit of cardboard in the bottom of the feed to change the razor's angle of attack. Standard blades once again. Hell, even just putting it on the floor and my foot on the handle allowed me to make nearly perfect belts right away. What I dislike is occasionally I need some big planes of leather like a 11" wide strap...I wish this would cut it. I considered the Draw gauge at the time I bought the strap cutter. It looks more professional etc & it importantly it gives you more room to maneuver. In my tests at the store, it was more reliable to stick with the wooden strap cutter though, rather than the draw gauage...2 years later, who knows I might be just as good now. I don't regret the $25 I paid for the wooden strap cutter.
  
  Skivers:
  
  
• Craft Tool Delux - I like this thing...but it's tiny for the cost. Extremely durable and once you understand it easy to use. The quality of the cuts is great - the one I saw used at tandy had the blade taken to a local sharpener & I've never seen anything go through leather like it. We did 6 foot long, just under 6" wide swaths of leather for 20 or 30 minutes playing around - since the manager hadn't used one either at that point - with me holding tension on one end & him pulling through...it was a blast. I had some doubts about the cost though...if you don't need the full 6" of skiving - just get the smaller one for a hundred off - but who knows when you need the extra width right?
  
  
• French edge skiver - I love this thing. I have 3 tandy edge skivers besides this one & an v edge gouger - which I almost never use except on bookcovers. I use this french cutter on so many little things, I had to get a second one after about 9 months I didn't think it was worth getting it professionally edged again. All of my tiny fixes a razor won't cure reliably get done with this guy. Especially the tongues for mounting a buckle on the straps or belts. Can't recommend enough!
  
  
• Super skiver - Nice, reliable, kind of a one trick pony. I have two, one that's flat and one that has an hinge for adjusting the angle which was neat, but I couldn't apply the force I thought I needed at first till I learned to just let it ride smoothly. Uses standard blades on both.
  
  
• [Safety skiver] - I have one, it's the middle ground between a french edger & the super skivers. I should probably give it another go now that my hand is steadier, but with the other tools, I just had no need for this one. It's just a handle with a bent frame that takes a standard razor blade into it.
  
  Cutting tools
  
  
• Rotary - This is my goto for longer cuts. It's ungodly sharp. Can't stress that enough. Don't even think about pushing down with it, instead clamp your leather better on either side. Only accident I ever had, barely brushed thumb against it and cut to the bone. We're talking a feather's touch. The con of such a sharp blade is that they bend or ruin easily and cost $5 per blade in stores. Don't use it on leather 4-5oz unless you've precut with another blade some to get the thickness down...you'll just burn out the blades at best, worst you push too hard and screw yourself or your leather. Highly recommended, amazing tool for all levels.
  
  
• Hook blade knife - This is a great tool, the narrow blade allows more precision cuts and curves in your leather, just stroke it across multiple times instead of pulling or pushing down harder. I use a standard razor in place as much as possible & goto this for the finer cuts. It uses more expensive blades and takes a bit of getting used to to sharpen as is curves.
  
  
• Jeweler's rouge - I list this here because when I started, I was pretty hopeless & this stuff made my day. Just to add to this ... the rouge allows you to use a bit of cardboard or a leather strap to refresh the edge of your blades. Since you apply the rouge to something and then rub the blade against it, you can sharpen curved / round edges too (don't bother with the rotary cutter circle blades).
  
  
• The Round Blade - My rotary cutter is amazing & amazingly easy to ruin projects with ... so the solution is the classical Round Blade. I gave in and got this once I thought about how nice it would be to apply whatever force I wanted to a small area with whatever speed I want. I have heard from most leather workers this becomes the de facto only tool - also where most guys end up chopping off parts of their hands. I really like it, but only used a few times. Combining it with moisturing my leather better has already given me some nice results.

Here's the one!

X503 Tri-weave Leather Stamp

I used this tool to punch the holes, though it is also available from Amazon at a little better price. You could also look on Amazon for similar tools, some of which I've seen for as cheap as $10 or $12. Just do a search for leather hole punch and you'll find quite a variety of options depending on your budget.


For the pyramid studs I didn't need to punch holes, the tines on the back were sharp enough to poke through the lambskin vest well enough. For a tougher leather I'd recommend an awl for these. I used the wooden handle of my awl to help bend the tines over so I'd stop stabbing my fingers and bleeding all over the inside of my vest.

I have This This This and This best I got

It’s actually just a stamp set I bought on Amazon

Alphabet Stamp Set

Have you considered using leather stamps? You'll need to find the correct font ones, and slip something into the shoe for the backing, but then it should be a breeze to stamp in new lettering and fill in the bossed letters. Odds are it'll end up looking pretty sharp.

Here's roughly what I'm talking about, courtesy of Amazon

Something like this would work

link

Too small?

Try one of these.

I think it looks great!
As someone has already pointed out, they make oblong punches...in a lot of sizes
https://www.amazon.com/12Pcs-Shape-Leather-Working-Oblong/dp/B06WWGSNCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503356433&sr=8-1&keywords=oblong+leather+punch
Also - you seem pretty set on how to do the rounder corners, with many straight cuts - I personally use a french curl ruler for cutting. You need a steady hand on the ruler and some practice, but i've found it's helped me a bit. Then again, i'm a super beginner so take it or leave it

this punch set looks as though it would serve your needs. Reasonable cost and you mentioned plural Submissives in your original post, so... not a one-off?

I do not vouch for the quality of the item or its seller. Just the best results I could come up with during a perfunctory Google search for "Leather Punch Set".

It's not really a saddle stitch if you don't lay the strands over each other...

• Option 1: grooving the leather is a reasonably good way of minimizing the slant as well as selecting the right chisels. Example - these are less slanted - Link
  
  
• Option 2: or using true pricking style with your leather awl to create the holes. Stitching marking wheel for in the groove ... then use this type of awl to put the hole at the angle of slant you desire (or no slant) Link
  
  
• Option 3: By chisels with no slant - I forget the name though
  

Thanks for the tip!

Nobody seems to sell ones with 5 mm prong pitch, but I found them with 4 mm prong pitch.

http://www.amazon.com/CrazyEve-Leathercraft-Diamond-Stitching-Perforate/dp/B00T17OULI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449624835&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=diamond+chisel+prong+pitch+5mm

Better?

Also, i'm looking into ordering this leather. 4 oz thickness seems perfect for wallets, and its sort of like the natural veg tan people recommend, but horween and cheap ($5 per square foot, about $100 for a 20 sqft hide).

http://www.maverickleathercompany.com/horween/horween-seconds/tumbled-natural-essex-finished-flesh/

This set has the same specs (2 mm prong, 4 mm prong pitch), but looks sharper?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010WGFZB0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1OIS8P00XXPZL

Get the Bushacre 2, instead. The sole will be a little less comfortable at first, because it's not crepe rubber, but will hold up better in the long run, and doesn't pick up dirt the way the crepe sole does.

Also, get a leather punch, some 3/16" eyelets, and eyelet pliers.

Then, punch a third pair of shoelace eyelets, on each boot, the same distance apart as the original 2 pairs, further up the boot. In my opinion, it makes a world of difference.

Clarks are a really great value, and break in nicely.

Thanks for the interest. I used 2-3oz economy leather from Tandy Leather. Here's the list of tools I used:

• Swivel Knife
  
• Nylon Mallet - I have the Al Strohman version, got on sale.
  
• Beveler Stamp - Perimeter edge
  
• Background Stamp
  
• Wing Divider - to mark stitching line
  
• Hole Punch
  
  Finished with:
  
• Saddle Tan Antique Gel
  
• Neatsfoot oil to soften
  
• Tan-Kote to seal/protect the leather
  
  Hope this helps