(Part 2) Best lighting accessories according to redditors

I used these, just last night. Worked great. I recommend these to mount them. http://i.imgur.com/3v4IoBA.jpg

I did self adhesive led strips mounted to 1/4" aluminum angle stock. I screwed the aluminum stock to the face frame under the cabinets and oriented it so the led strips were facing the wall and one side of the angle stock was facing towards the countertop.

I used a dimmable 12vdc power supply and put it on a standard 120vac dimmer switch. The aluminum acts as a heat sink and when you look down at the glossy counter top, you can't see the leds. Worked pretty well.

https://www.amazon.com/Rextin-Regulated-Transformer-Supply-Driver/dp/B06Y21KB96

I am in the process of installing the LED strips and controllers below. Tested end to end setup last night and they work as expected. RGB+WW. No surprises. Also included the matching channels with diffusers.

Hope this helps!

LEDENET RGBWW LED Strip 4 Colors... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VIKAWWC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Wireless electronic ballast... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

LED Aluminum Channel Wide 10-Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDV1RH9?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If you haven't already, you may consider using a double gang box and getting a dimmer. They're UL listed so they can be inside the outlet box and they work great with Lutron (or other) 120 dimmers.

The Chanzon drivers on amazon are pretty cheap and work amazing for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSANIYC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14FP9XIRL6C1F

I've done a couple installs of under cabinet LED strip lighting and I've found these LEDs to be very nice for the price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R5NUUAK/. I used a 40W magnetic transformer like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KWVFXC/. If using a dimmer switch, you need to use one compatible with magnetic transformers, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006UUI06. Electronic transformers are another cheaper option, but you'd want to look into the pros/cons.

I mean the siren isn't a bad idea, just not a 130dB one :) Since Wyze cam is currently the top comment, an easy solution would be to get a Wyze plug and plug a siren into it (note you need a transformer for the one I linked).

Now that said, the right thing to do would be to get a proper security system with door/window/motion sensors. There are lots, Ring Alarm is a popular cheap one currently (and yes it has a siren). You could still add a Wyze cam or similar to try to catch any intruders after the fact, but I would never rely on camera motion sensors for intrusion detection.

I'm uk based. I just searched "12v battery pack" on amazon.

Am.com has loads too...

something like that

https://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Rechageable-Lithium-Ion-Battery-Pack/dp/B00U2PVX36

Just run extension cords behind the wall or within the cabinets. That way stove heat won't be a problem. If you want to save money just buy bulk wire. But if you connect more than 16ft of lights in a single circuit, then you needed an amplifier which needs to be plugged into an extra power supply otherwise the lights near the ends of the circuit will be dimmer and also off color. Color correctness comes from adequate power.

Here are the components I got:

RGB LED Strip Lights Kit,BEILAI RGB LED Light Strip Waterproof SMD 5050 DC 12V Flexible Neon Tape 16.4 Ft (5M) 300leds with 44key Controller for Christmas Kitchen Party Indoor and Outdoor decoration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KSPR5GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p6mWBbZ9XWQ7N

EvZ 22AWG 4pin LED Electric Wire 22 Gauge 33ft 10m Conductor Extension Cable Line Cord for RGB LED Strip 5050 3528 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DPQMKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_r7mWBbSQEZB0T

EvZ 10PCS LED 5050 RGB Strip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CMLLKHG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

12V DC Battery Pack, 6000 mAh... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U2PVX36?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And a bunch of male/female connectors - but I can’t find the link. Also make power connectors for the power bank.

Soldering was a pain because the led leads are so close together. Used a knitting ring in the hoodie opening to keep it stiff and hot glued the whole contraption onto some black sweats. No time this year but I want to play with Tron type costumes next year.

I used these plastic anchors, spaced roughly 6-8 inches apart.

A royal pain to install, but they've held up for over a year with no issues, and I don't anticipate any problems.

definitely get the single-screw version. It's difficult enough to install them under cabinets without haveing to do two screws for every anchor.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0747NBTBX

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074HV582Q

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00004WLK5

You also need an insulator. The parts I used called for a Solo 2 18mm bong adapter but they are like $30cdn. I used DH gate. Search 18mm bong adapter and find one that looks similar to the solo 2.

Also, that power supply has gone up in price. I don't know if you wanna look for a different cheaper one. But that one is good.

12 in. Clear Acrylic Globe - with... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00435HHC2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Ok, if this was me....

I'd use Noctua fans (They're nearly silent and I've used a bunch for different things); https://noctua.at/en/products/fan They're available on Amazon.

Then install a 12V converter inside the fridge; tap into the 120V AC power from the fridge after the power comes inside the unit. This looks to be a small compact unit that will supply more than enough power. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRDGKHZ/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_DE9ADb64FBEXZ

Then install your fans, wire them up in parallel to the output size of this.

NOTE: depending on where you tap into the 120V line for the transformer will determine if the fans only run when the unit is on, or if it they are always running if the unit is plugged in. (Basically if you tap into the line right when it comes into the unit then they will run if the unit is plugged in; if you can find a spot to tap into it after a relay or something similar that is only hot when the unit is on... then you should be able to get it to power on only when the unit is on.

1. I'm not sure of the brand, just a reel I bought off of amazon and cut to length. They are decent enough. I didn't feel like spending $100 on LED strips. I should point out that the controller that comes with these RGB strips is not the best. But I didn't need a controller, just the RGB strips. Link
   
   
2. In some places I'm using 3M adhesive, and other areas that are more prone to stress and tension I used these little clips.
   
   
3. I drilled, very carfully, about 85% of the way through the front panel maybe even 90%. Then I used what is called a bottom tap, the make the treads.
   
   
4. All screws used on this case are 6-32 (except the mobo standoffs). This is the same screw that Phanteks uses on the case itself. Makes it super easy for assembly not having to guess which screw goes where. Pro tip.
   
   
5. The RGB controller I'm using is from a German company, and there for does not adhere to the same output standards. So I had to map the outputs and cross the wire colors so that the controller would output the proper color to its corresponding channel. That way I wouldn't have to do any guess work when I would make a splice or extension in the RGB run. Fun stuff let me tell you. This took me way to long to get right because one of the ouputs on the RGB controller wasn't outputting the same RGB config as the other 3. After I figured that out it was a breeze lol.

This should be what you need

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Kitchen-Christmas-Non-waterproof-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC

https://www.amazon.com/Freshinsoft-12V-Power-Supply-Transformers/dp/B075NZYZVT

sure thing, thanks for the response!

And understood on the point of they wont necessarily be 7.5A each.

Total load of the device however is around 4A, split 1A at 30v /3A at 12v

1. I've decided for the 12v supply to also go with a double insulated. Both brands are meanwell, and both are class 2
   
   LPC-35-1050 - powering 1 chip on board LED
   https://www.arrow.com/en/products/lpc-35-1050/mean-well-enterprises
   
   and LPV-35-12 - powering a 12v LED strip, 3 fans, 1 pump, and arduino
   https://www.amazon.com/LPV-35-12-Supply-Driver-90-264-Output/dp/B00IO1W38E/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M533CWTP0HM8K1038JWX&dpID=41%252BqirwjtGL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
   
   
2. power supplies will be at most 2ft from receptacle
   
   
3. DC is being run in <1sqft direction from power supplies
   
   >But if all you were planning on doing was twisting them together and putting some tape over it? That's how people get hurt. That's how fires get started. That's how people die.
   
   fair enough, and i absolutely appreciate that. Are butt clips suitable in this case? or should i also be getting a small box like this
   
   https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-NBF-32016-Plastic-Economy/dp/B07CY9KVW1/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526137598&sr=1-7&keywords=electrical+box
   

Wow, you just solved it and I am an idiot. I ordered 2 Power Supplies, one was supposed to be this 12V 360W PSU for the RAMPS/etc. and the other is this 24V 500W PSU exclusively for the Heated Bed.

I could have sworn I double checked but I just looked and it seems I have 2 24V PSUs. Was looking for the model number on the one connected to the RAMPS and it says s-360-24 on the side sigh.

Well that explains why it fried it. Time to return that for the correct PSU.

You need an LED "driver" like this to get you to 12 volts DC for the LEDs. Then you can use a 12 VDC dimmer like this.

You can absolutely use the https://www.amazon.com/Freshinsoft-12V-Power-Supply-Transformers/dp/B075NZYZVT/ref=sr_1_254?keywords=12v+driver+led&qid=1566073280&s=gateway&sr=8-254 just as long as the light and USB charger won't use more than 2 watts. Hard to say since I don't have paperwork on the light in question!

One option is to keep the 12V buck off-board and buck the smaller supplies off of the 12V going into your card.

https://www.amazon.com/GALYGG-Switching-Universal-Regulated-Transformer/dp/B06XRDGKHZ/

https://www.amazon.com/Rextin-Regulated-Transformer-Supply-Driver/dp/B06Y21KB96

available up to 450W, cheap as dirt. mount vertical or on a shelf.

I haven't seen any 120v Zigbee controllers that output to 12/24v DC. Only ones like this for normal lighting fixtures: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSK1HVP

If that grey wire just plugs into a receptacle, maybe you could just use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTQJ8S5

and power it with a 120 watt power supply adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Converter-Lighting-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B07FQCF8WF

I am also a neophyte, but have made several diy grow lights recently. Take everything I write with giant grains of salt.

You can buy a CXB3590 (3500 K, 36VDC) for $38 from digikey. An LED holder from newark ( http://www.newark.com/ideal/50-2303cr/led-holder-cree-cxa35-cob-array/dp/39X0077 ) runs about $3. You can buy a 900mA driver for it off amazon for $11 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSANIYC ). You can buy a household AC box and a light switch for about $5 from home depot. Scrounge a PC AC cable, some wire for the DC side, some solder. Dig through old electronics for a good heat sink, a fan. Ask some computer folks for thermal paste.

That would bring you close to $50.

From that you can make a 30W led light, I think get over 5000 lumens, and it'd probably be pretty good quality, and not terribly dangerous.

For the AC side, do everything in the electrical box, and make sure it's grounded. Random stuff happens, don't let it happen to you. Electrical shock sucks, but poorly done AC wiring stuff could get hot, start a fire, so putting it in a box is a must. And it's really nice to have a the AC switch. You could simplify, leave out the switch, and use wire nuts, but it's still absolutely necessary to do that in a box and ground that box.

On the DC side, I used these barrel connectors ( https://www.amzn.com//B06Y4YXRMC ) with the wiring to the LED. It's also nice. EDIT: I don't know what these connectors are rated for, but they seemed pretty sturdy.

Sorry, again, I have some electronics background, but I'm new to lighting, so it's foolish of me to even comment.

I got this power supply. The 60 Watt UL-Listed one.
Does the UL-Listed mean that it's fine? It's branded as HitLights.

Thanks :)

You could write sequences easily enough, and in fact it would be relatively trivial to fire them off spontaneously with simple pushbuttons as input to your microcontroller. When I put that costume together, I wore a little custom switchboard like a watch that had the arduino installed on it along with a series of pushbuttons and rocker switches to turn things on and off.


Syncing to music directly might be tough - certainly doable, but it may just be easier to have buttons which perform preprogrammed actions. There are a lot of ways things could go awry when trying to line up audio with circuits. For professional shows it's better to have an engineer or two (on further viewing, it looks like they had 3 guys manning this in the show) on the sidelines controlling all that stuff, but if it's just you a simpler and more adaptable route might be to program 8 or so actions, wire buttons from the arduino to your fingertips to fire them off, and rely on your own timing and coordination to get things really moving. Just a suggestion to avoid overcomplicating things, and using such a technique also allows you to be a bit more adaptable (say, for example, if you want to use the surrounding music like at a club as opposed to needing your own).


Also /u/Tinkrr2 is right about the voltage requirements varying by brand - make sure you look into that. Finally, if you're looking to make this into a semi-permanent hobby then it helps to have an adjustable power supply handy. A beefy battery, a sizable power supply, a few barrel jacks, some Dupont connectors, and most importantly an adjustable buck converter will take you very far. I wouldn't worry too much about any of this now, but if you decide you like tinkering with electronics (especially LEDs, which have moderate power requirements) that would be a terrific start.

Forgot to add, would something like this work pretty good?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU8QBCO?psc=1

I made a simpler version of yours. Also just bent the led strip instead of cutting and splicing sections. Had all kinds of problems getting the connectors to work. It will need more work in the future, but works for now.
https://imgur.com/a/7FHig

Edited to change link to Imgur post.

2nd Edit add, item list:
Top is 3/4" Birch Plywood 24"x 26 1/2" (To fit Battle Map)

Legs are 1" Pine

Hinges: Rockler 32754 Posi-Lock Folding Leg Bracket. They lock in extended and folded positions. A slight wiggle when locked open, but not enough to cause any problems.

Led strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JS298G2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Led strip Mounting clips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F4U2K80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hue strips are wider than 12mm, you need 15mm channel like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDV1RH9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/LPV-35-12-Supply-Driver-90-264-Output/dp/B00IO1W38E/ref=sr_1_27?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540484513&sr=1-27&keywords=Mean+Well+12V

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-27397-Internal-Extension-Connector/dp/B0002J26JM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540484582&sr=1-6&keywords=molex+cable

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVERNUT-TRM-BLK/dp/B01DPLPX2A/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&qid=1540484752&sr=8-41&keywords=wago+2

Sorry for formatting on mobile.

I ran about 150’ of these lights in my basement.. used them as cove lighting and under bar/shelf lighting. I found you can connect 2 of these reels of lights without noticeable dimming down the strip of lights. Online you can find pretty much any supply as long as it outputs at the correct voltage (get that info from your LED controller)

BINZET DC12V 2.5A 30 Watt LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRX360W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used this to power my main controller I think it’s actually for a fountain..I have no issues with brightness. Your controller isn’t going to let enough current run through the light strip to ever allow more than 2 reels of lights to be powered, even if you managed to find a higher amp power supply.. this is driven by losses over the line and LED power consumption, at 12v losses and consumption is high.. if you had lights that ran off 48v you get significantly longer runs of lights before dimming on the far end was noticeable. I digress.

If you have a lot your running together get yourself an amplifier. Jumper wires off the LED light strip go to the input, 12/24v is input into the amplifier, and an RGB output wires can then be ran back to the LED strip.

LED RGB Amplifier Controller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071F4D5SD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Next you’ll need an additional power supply to power
your amplifiers. I used a computer power supply.

SUPERNIGHT 12V 30A Switching... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LATMSGS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Jumper cables and power from power supply to amplifiers was run with 18 gauge wire.

Alternatively you can buy an additional local power supply to every amplifier if it’s easier than one central. I used one central so I could plug in my controller and power supply into one outlet on the wall, I then used typical NM 600v cable to control the outlet with a switch on the wall. Gives the feel of a professional light install for a fraction of the price.

Are you talking about the sockets that have little metal "wings" on them to hold the light in place? If so, you can use the cords that are designed for ceramic "village" houses, like Lemax or Department 56. Single-bulb cords are sold at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, and other stores like that, as well as at Home Depot. Online, there are quite a few places that sell them, and of course, including Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Hobbies-708N1-Replacement-Christmas/dp/B01LVXU2IV?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4

Good luck!

Source

Sure. You will need to purchase a power supply (this one is 12 volt) to drive this controller. So figure out if your strips are either 12 or 24 volt. If they happen to be 24 volt, this controller has a built in power supply for 24 volt LED strips only. Both can be added to the Philips Hue Bridge.

As for connections, I used these for RGB strips and these for power connections.

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Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.

Looks amazing, did you by chance use these for installation?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAWHKP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J.nDybN9MZKE5

My under cabinets aren't flat and I have a corner I would like to have the Hue strips follow. Since the hue strips will only bend one way did you have that challenge and how did you solve it. Thanks!

Super cool! Looks great!

My go to gift lately has been the box that you can make on https://lithophanemaker.com and one of these with an led bulb 😃

Something like this might help...

Depending on your head size, you can choose from the following:

Acrylic Globe 12 inch

Acrylic Globe 16 inch

Acrylic Globe 18 inch

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Some people keep mentioning Vape, but it would only provide a temporary screen until the smoke dissipates, unless you were to keep it on the entire time. Even at 0% nicotine, you can really hinder your breathing having it on for the whole time. The Youtube video (someone already linked) looks like he used a thin veil of badding to the inside. Doing this will allow you to see a little and you could pull a little away to expose the acrylic to give you some better viewing out of the dome.

A more professional and elegant way would be to use aluminum channels designed to house, mount, and diffuse LED strip lights.

We happen to be one of the few brands offering these aluminum channel systems, including one model designed specifically for Philips Hue Lightstrips (Gen 2).

here ya go.